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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/13512-0.txt b/13512-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..223b785 --- /dev/null +++ b/13512-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9077 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13512 *** + +Transcriber's Note: + The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced long. + The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced short. + These characters do not occur otherwise. + + + + + +THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC +TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, +VOLUME I + +by + +SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S. + +In Two Volumes. + +1844 + + + + + + + +[Illustration CAPTAIN W.E. PARRY R.N.] + + + + +PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT + +The two volumes herewith presented to the public contain an +uninterrupted narrative, in Captain Parry's own words, of the five +voyages made by that distinguished navigator, under the sanction +of the British government, in search of a passage from the eastern +to the western side of the American Continent, through the Arctic +Ocean. Although abbreviated, the curtailment has been effected, +not by any change in the language of the original writer, but +merely by omitting all such details as were not inviting to the +general reader; and, in a word, changing the character of the work +from that of an official report to that of a narrative. The effort +has been to preserve all interesting and amusing particulars; to +record all facts and transactions of importance; to present an +accurate though brief notice of all valuable accessions to +geographic as well as general knowledge, effected in the progress +of the voyages; and, at the same time, to keep the reader's +attention ever on the alert by the rapid and uninterrupted +succession of striking incidents. + +It is hoped that the aim here designated has been accomplished; +and that, in the abridged narrative of Parry's Voyages, there will +be found matter, not only to interest the reader for amusement, +but also to improve. The scenes and adventures recorded by the +navigator are in the highest degree novel and remarkable; and it +cannot be other than profitable to know what perils were +encountered, what courage, firmness, and ingenuity were displayed, +what moral and physical influences were developed, and what +triumphs of human skill were achieved, in the progress of voyages +undertaken solely to advance the interests of science. + +H. & B. + +New-York, May, 1840. + + + + +CONTENTS +of +THE FIRST VOLUME + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110° +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113° 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 68¼°.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE. + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + + + +TECHNICAL TERMS PECULIAR TO THE NAVIGATION AMONG ICE + + +BAY-ICE.--Ice newly formed upon the surface of the sea. The +expression is, however, applied also to ice a foot or two in +thickness. + +BESET.--The situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice. + +BIGHT.--An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name +it is sometimes called. + +BLINK.--A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere, often assuming an +arch-like form, which is generally perceptible over ice or land +covered with snow. The blink of land, as well as that over _large_ +quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast. + +BORE.--The operation of "boring" through loose ice consists in +entering it under a press of sail, and forcing the ship through by +separating the masses. + +CALF.--A mass of ice lying under a floe near its margin, and, when +disengaged from that position, rising with violence to the surface +of the water. See TONGUE. + +CLEAR WATER.--Any part of the sea unencumbered with ice. + +CROW'S NEST.--A small circular house like a cask, fixed at the +masthead, in which the look-out man sits, either to guide the ship +through the ice or to give notice of whales. + +DOCK.--In a floe may be natural or artificial; the former being +simply a small "bight," in which a ship is placed to secure her +from the danger of external pressure; and the latter, a square +space cut out with saws for a similar purpose. + +FIELD.--A sheet of ice generally of great thickness, and of too +great extent to be seen over from a ship's masthead. + +FLINCHING.--The operation of stripping a sea-animal of its skin +and blubber. + +FLOE.--The same as a field, except that its extent can be +distinguished from a ship's masthead. A "bay-floe" is a floe of +ice newly formed. + +FLOE-PIECE.--An expression generally applied to small pieces of +floes, not more than a furlong square. + +A HOLE or POOL of Water.--A small space of "clear water," when the +rest of the sea is covered with ice. + +HUMMOCK.--A mass of ice rising to a considerable height above the +general level of a floe, and forming a part of it. Hummocks are +originally raised by the pressure of floes against each other. + +LAND-ICE.--Ice attached to the land, either in floes or in heavy +grounded masses lying near the shore. + +LANE of Water.--A narrow channel among the masses of ice, through +which a boat or ship may pass. + +LEAD.--A channel through the ice. A ship is said to "take the +right lead" when she follows a channel conducting her into a more +navigable sea, and _vice versâ_. + +MAKING-OFF Blubber.--The operation of putting it into casks. + +NIPPED.--The situation of a ship when forcibly pressed by ice. + +PACK.--A large body of ice, consisting of separate masses, lying +close together, and whose extent cannot be seen. + +PANCAKE-ICE.--Newly formed ice, assuming the peculiar conformation +of numberless patches of "sludge," and giving the surface of the +sea the appearance of a handsome pavement. + +PATCH of Ice.--The same as a pack, but of small dimensions. + +SAILING-ICE.--Ice of which the masses are so much separated as to +allow a ship to sail among them. + +SALLYING a Ship.--The operation of causing her to roll, by the men +running in a body from side to side, so as to relieve her from the +adhesion and friction of the young ice around her. + +SLUDGE.--Ice of the consistence of thick honey, offering little +impediment to a ship while in this state, but greatly favouring +the formation of a "bay-floe." + +STREAM.--A long and narrow, but generally continuous, collection +of loose ice. + +TONGUE.--A mass of ice projecting under water from an iceberg or +floe, and generally distinguishable at a considerable depth of +smooth water. It differs from a "calf" in being fixed to, or a +part of the larger body. + +WATER-SKY.--A dark appearance in the sky, indicating "clear water" +in that direction, and forming a striking contrast with the +"blink" over land or ice. + +YOUNG-ICE.--Nearly the same as "bay-ice," but generally applied to +ice more recently formed than the latter. + + + + +VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +Lieutenant Parry was appointed to the command of his majesty's +ship the Hecla, a bomb of 375 tons, on the 16th of January, 1819; +and the Griper, gun brig, 180 tons, commissioned by Lieutenant +Matthew Liddon, was at the same time directed to put herself under +his orders. The object of the expedition was to attempt the +discovery of a Northwest Passage into the Pacific. The vessels +were rigged after the manner of a bark, as being the most +convenient among the ice, and requiring the smallest number of men +to work them. They were furnished with provisions and stores for +two years; in addition to which, there was a large supply of fresh +meats and soups preserved in tin cases, essence of malt and hops, +essence of spruce, and other extra stores, adapted to cold +climates and a long voyage. The ships were ballasted entirely with +coals; an abundance of warm clothing was allowed, a wolfskin +blanket being supplied to each officer and man, besides a +housing-cloth, similar to that with which wagons are usually +covered, to make a sort of tent on board. Although the finding a +passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was the main object of +the expedition, yet the ascertaining many points of natural +history, geography, &c., was considered a most important object, +never to be lost sight of. After they had passed the latitude of +65° north, they were from time to time to throw overboard a +bottle, closely sealed, containing a paper, stating the date and +position at which it was launched. Whenever they landed on the +northern coast of North America, they were to erect a pole, having +a flag, and bury a bottle at the foot of it, containing an +abstract of their proceedings and future intentions, for the +information of Lieutenant Franklin, who had been sent on a land +expedition to explore that coast from the mouth of the Coppermine +River of Hearne. + +According to the official instructions, the interests of science +were not neglected, and many important facts were made out; among +the most curious, it may be mentioned, that it appears to be +proved that the North Pole is not the coldest point of the Arctic +hemisphere, but that the place where the expedition wintered is +one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +In the beginning of May, 1819, the Hecla and Griper were towed +down the river; the guns and gunner's stores were received on +board on the 6th; and the instruments and chronometers were +embarked on the evening of the 8th, when the two ships anchored at +the Nore. The Griper, being a slower sailer, was occasionally +taken in tow by the Hecla, and they rounded the northern point of +the Orkneys, at the distance of two miles and a half; on Thursday, +the 20th of the same month. + +Nothing of moment occurred for several days; but the wind veered +to the westward on the 30th, and increased to a fresh gale, with +an irregular sea and heavy rain, which brought us under our +close-reefed topsails. At half past one, P.M., we began to cross +the space in which the "Sunken Land of Buss" is laid down in +Steel's chart from England to Greenland; and, in the course of +this and the following day, we tried for soundings several times +without success. + +Early in the morning of the 18th of June, in standing to the +northward, we fell in with the first "stream" of ice we had seen, +and soon after saw several icebergs. At daylight the water had +changed its colour to a dirty brownish tinge. The temperature of +the water was 36½°, being 3° colder than on the preceding night; a +decrease that was probably occasioned by our approach to the ice. +We ran through a narrow part of the stream, and found the ice +beyond it to be "packed" and heavy. The birds were more numerous +than usual; and, besides the fulmar peterels, boatswains, and +kittiwakes, we saw, for the first time, some rotges, dovekies, or +black guillemots, and terns, the latter known best to seamen by +the name of the Greenland swallow. + +On the clearing up of a fog on the morning of the 24th, we saw a +long chain of icebergs, extending several miles, in a N.b.W. and +S.b.E. direction; and, as we approached them, we found a quantity +of "floe-ice" intermixed with them, beyond which, to the westward, +nothing but ice could be seen. At noon we had soundings, with one +hundred and twenty fathoms of line, on a bottom of fine sand, +which makes it probable that most of the icebergs were aground in +this place. In the afternoon we sailed within the edge of the ice, +as much as a light westerly wind would admit, in order to approach +the western land. Some curious effects of atmospheric refraction +were observed this evening, the low ice being at times considerably +raised in the horizon, and constantly altering its appearance. + +The weather being nearly calm on the morning of the 25th, all the +boats were kept ahead, to tow the ships through the ice to the +westward. It remained tolerably open till four P.M., when a +breeze, freshening up from the eastward, caused the ice, through +which we had lately been towing, to close together so rapidly, +that we had scarcely time to hoist up the boats before the ships +were immovably "beset." The clear sea which we had left was about +four miles to the eastward of us, while to the westward nothing +but one extensive field of ice could be seen. It is impossible to +conceive a more helpless situation than that of a ship thus beset, +when all the power that can be applied will not alter the +direction of her head a single degree of the compass. + +A large black whale, being the first, was seen near the ships. It +is usual for these animals to descend head foremost, displaying +the broad fork of their enormous tail above the surface of the +water; but, on this occasion, the ice was so close as not to admit +of this mode of descent, and the fish went down tail foremost, to +the great amusement of our Greenland sailors. + +While in this state a large white bear came near the Griper, and +was killed by her people, but he sunk between the pieces of ice. +This animal had probably been attracted by the smell of some red +herrings which the men were frying at the time. It is a common +practice with the Greenland sailors to take advantage of the +strong sense of smelling which these creatures possess, by +enticing them near the ships in this manner. + +The swell had somewhat subsided on the 29th, but the ships +remained firmly fixed in the ice as before. In the course of the +day we saw land bearing N. 69° W. about thirteen leagues distant, +appearing from the masthead like a group of islands, and situated +near to the entrance of Cumberland Strait: the soundings were one +hundred and thirty-five fathoms; the temperature of the sea at +that depth 30°; that of the surface being the same, and of the air +34°. On the 30th the ice began to slacken a little more about the +ships; and, after two hours' heaving with a hawser on each bow +brought to the capstan and windlass, we succeeded in moving the +Hecla about her own length to the eastward, where alone any clear +sea was visible. The ice continuing to open still more in the +course of the day, we were at length enabled to get both ships +into open water, after eight hours' incessant labour. + +On the 1st and 2d of July, we continued to keep close to the edge +of the ice without perceiving any opening in it. Its outer margin +consisted of heavy detached masses, much washed by the sea, and +formed what is technically called "a pack," this name being given +to ice when so closely connected as not to admit the passage of a +ship between the masses. Within the margin of the pack, it +appeared to consist of heavy and extensive floes, having a bright +ice-blink over them; but no clear water could be discovered to the +westward. The birds, which had hitherto been seen since our first +approach to the ice, were fulmar peterels, little auks, looms, and +a few gulls. + +On the morning of the 3d the wind blew strong from the eastward, +with a short, breaking sea, and thick, rainy weather, which made +our situation for some hours rather an unpleasant one, the ice +being close under our lee. Fortunately, however, we weathered it +by stretching back a few miles to the southward. In the afternoon +the wind moderated, and we tacked again to the northward, crossing +the Arctic circle at four P.M., in the longitude of 57° 27' W. We +passed at least fifty icebergs in the course of the day, many of +them of large dimensions. Towards midnight, the wind having +shifted to the southwest and moderated, another extensive chain of +very large icebergs appeared to the northward: as we approached +them the wind died away, and the ships' heads were kept to the +northward, only by the steerage way given to them by a heavy +southerly swell, which, dashing the loose ice with tremendous +force against the bergs, sometimes raised a white spray over the +latter to the height of more than one hundred feet, and, being +accompanied with a loud noise, exactly resembling the roar of +distant thunder, presented a scene at once sublime and terrific. +We could find no bottom near these icebergs with one hundred and +ten fathoms of line. + +At four A.M. on the 4th we came to a quantity of loose ice, which +lay straggling among the bergs; and as there was a light breeze +from the southward, and I was anxious to avoid, if possible, the +necessity of going to the eastward, I pushed the Hecla into the +ice, in the hope of being able to make our way through it. We had +scarcely done so, however, before it fell calm; when the ship +became perfectly unmanageable, and was for some time at the mercy +of the swell, which drifted us fast towards the bergs. All the +boats were immediately sent ahead to tow; and the Griper's signal +was made not to enter the ice. After two hours' hard pulling, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla back again into clear water, and to +a sufficient distance from the icebergs, which it is very +dangerous to approach when there is a swell. At noon we were in +lat. 69° 50' 47", long. 57° 07' 56", being near the middle of the +narrowest part of Davis's Strait, which is here not more than +fifty leagues across. + +On the 5th it was necessary to pass through some heavy streams of +ice, in order to avoid the loss of time by going round to the +eastward. On this, as on many other occasions, the advantage +possessed by a ship of considerable weight in the water, in +separating the heavy masses of ice, was Very apparent. In some of +the streams through which the Hecla passed, a vessel of a hundred +tons less burden must have been immovably beset. The Griper was on +this and many other occasions only enabled to follow the Hecla by +taking advantage of the openings made by the latter. + +A herd of seahorses being seen lying on a piece of ice, our boat +succeeded in killing one of them. These animals usually lie +huddled together like pigs, one over the other, and are so +stupidly tame as to allow a boat to approach them within a few +yards without moving. When at length they are disturbed, they dash +into the water in great confusion. It may be worth remarking, as a +proof how tenacious the walrus sometimes is of life, that the +animal killed to-day struggled violently for ten minutes after it +was struck, and towed the boat twenty or thirty yards, after which +the iron of the harpoon broke; and yet it was found, on +examination, that the iron barb had penetrated both auricles of +the heart. A quantity of the blubber was put into casks, as a +winter's supply of lamp-oil. + +A large bear being seen on a piece of ice, near which we were +passing on the 10th, a boat was despatched in pursuit, and our +people succeeded in killing and towing it on board. As these +animals sink immediately on being mortally wounded, some dexterity +is requisite to secure them, by first throwing a rope over the +neck, at which many of the Greenland seamen are remarkably expert. +It is customary for the boats of the whalers to have two or three +lines coiled in them, which not only gives them great stability, +but, with good management, makes it difficult for a bear, when +swimming, to put his paw upon the gunwale, which they generally +endeavour to do; whereas, with our boats, which are more light and +crank, and therefore very easily heeled over, I have more than +once seen a bear on the point of taking possession of them. Great +caution should therefore be used under such circumstances in +attacking these ferocious creatures. We have always found a +boarding-pike the most useful weapon for this purpose. The lance +used by the whalers will not easily penetrate the skin, and a +musket-ball, except when very close, is scarcely more efficacious. + +On the 17th, the margin of the ice appearing more open than we had +yet seen it, and there being some appearance of a "water-sky" to +the northwest, I was induced to run the ships into the ice, though +the weather was too thick to allow us to see more than a mile or +two in that direction. We were, at noon, in latitude 72° 00' 21", +longitude 59° 43' 04", the depth of water being one hundred and +ninety fathoms, on a muddy bottom. The wind shortly after died +away, as usual, and, after making a number tacks, in order to gain +all we could to the westward, we found ourselves so closely, +hemmed in by the ice on every side, that there was no longer room +to work the ships, and we therefore made them fast to a floe till +the weather should clear up. The afternoon was employed in taking +on board a supply of water from the floe. It may be proper at once +to remark that, from this time till the end of the voyage, +snow-water was exclusively made use of on board the ships for +every purpose. During the summer months, it is found in abundance +in the pools upon the floes and icebergs; and in the winter, snow +was dissolved in the coppers for our daily consumption. The fog +cleared away in the evening, when we perceived that no farther +progress could be made through the ice, into which we sailed to +the westward about twelve miles. We were therefore once more under +the necessity of returning to the eastward, lest a change of wind +should beset the ships in their present situation. + +A thick fog came on again at night, and prevailed till near noon +on the 18th, when we came to a close but narrow stream of ice, +lying exactly across our course, and at right angles to the main +body of the ice. As this stream extended to the eastward as far as +we could see from the "crow's nest," an endeavour was made to push +the ships with all sail through the narrowest part. The facility +with which this operation, technically called "boring," is +performed, depends chiefly on having a fresh and free wind, with +which we were not favoured on this occasion; so that, when we had +forced the ships about one hundred yards into the ice, their way +was completely stopped. The stream consisted of such small pieces +of ice, that, when an attempt was made to warp the ships ahead by +fastening lines to some of the heaviest masses near them, the ice +itself came home, without the ships being moved forward.--Every +effort to extricate them from this helpless situation proved +fruitless for more than two hours, when the Hecla was at length +backed out, and succeeded in pushing through another part of the +stream in which a small opening appeared just at that moment. All +our boats were immediately despatched to the assistance of the +Griper, which still remained beset, and which no effort could move +in any direction We at length resorted to the expedient of sending +a whale-line to her from the Hecla, and then, making all sail upon +the latter ship, we succeeded in towing her out, head to wind, +till she was enabled to proceed in clear water. The crossing of +this stream of ice, of which, the breadth scarcely exceeded three +hundred yards, occupied us constantly for more than five hours, +and may serve as an example of the detention to which ships are +liable in this kind of navigation. + +Early on the morning of the 21st the fog cleared away, and +discovered to us the land called by Davis, Hope Sanderson and the +Woman's Islands, being the first land we had seen in sailing +northward into Baffin's Bay, from the lat. of 63¾°. We found +ourselves in the midst of a great number of very high icebergs, of +which I counted, from the crow's-nest, eighty-eight, besides many +smaller ones. + +Having now reached the latitude of 73° without seeing a single +opening in the ice, and being unwilling to increase our distance +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound by proceeding much farther to the +northward, I determined once more to enter the ice in this place, +and to try the experiment of forcing our way through it, in order +to get into the open sea. Being therefore favoured with clear +weather, and a moderate breeze from the southeastward, we ran into +the ice, which for the first two miles consisted of detached +pieces, but afterward of floes of considerable extent, and six or +seven feet in thickness. The wind died away towards midnight, and +the weather was serene and clear. + +At six A.M. on the 23d, a thick fog came on, which rendered it +impossible to see our way any farther. We therefore warped to an +iceberg, to which the ships were made fast at noon, to wait the +clearing up of the fog, being in lat. 73° 04' 10", long. 60° 11' +30". At eight P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few small pools +of open water were seen here and there, but the ice was generally +as close as before, and the wind being to the westward of north, +it was not deemed advisable to move. + +The weather, being clear in the morning of the 25th, and a few +narrow lanes of water appearing to the westward, the Griper was +made fast astern of the Hecla; and her crew being sent to assist +in manning our capstan, we proceeded to warp the ships through the +ice. This method, which is often adopted by our whalers, has the +obvious advantage of applying the whole united force in separating +the masses of ice which lie in the way of the first ship, allowing +the second, or even third, to follow close astern, with very +little obstruction. In this manner we had advanced about four +miles to the westward by eight P.M., after eleven hours of very +laborious exertion; and having then come to the end of the clear +water, and the weather being again foggy, the ships were secured +in a deep "bight," or bay in a floe, called by the sailors a +"natural dock." + +Early on the morning of the 26th there was clear water as far as +we could see to the westward, which, on account of the fog, did +not exceed the distance of three hundred yards. We made sail, +however, and having groped our way for about half a mile, found +the ice once more close in every direction except that in which we +had been sailing, obliging us to make the ships fast to a floe. At +half past three P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few narrow +lanes of water being seen to the westward, every exertion was +immediately made to get into them. On beginning to heave, however, +we found that the "hole" of water in which the Hecla lay was now +so completely enclosed by ice that no passage out of it could be +found. We tried every corner, but to no purpose; all the power we +could apply being insufficient to move the heavy masses of ice +which had fixed themselves firmly between us and the lanes of +water without. In the mean time, Lieutenant Liddon had succeeded +in advancing about three hundred yards, and had placed the +Griper's bow between two heavy floes, which it was necessary to +separate before any farther progress could be made. Both ships +continued to heave at their hawsers occasionally, as the ice +appeared to slacken a little, by which means they were now and +then drawn ahead a few inches at a time, but did not advance more +than half a dozen yards in the course of the night. By our nearing +several bergs to the northward, the ice appeared to be drifting in +that direction, the wind being moderate from the southward. + +About three A.M., Tuesday, 27th, by a sudden motion of the ice, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla out of her confined situation, and +ran her up astern of the Griper. The clear water had made so much +to the westward, that a narrow neck of ice was all that was now +interposed between the ships and a large open space in that +quarter. Both ships' companies were therefore ordered upon the ice +to saw off the neck, when the floes suddenly opened sufficiently +to allow the Griper to push through under all sail. No time was +lost in the attempt to get the Hecla through after her; but, by +one of those accidents to which this navigation is liable, and +which render it so precarious and uncertain, a piece of loose ice, +which lay between the two ships, was drawn after the Griper by the +eddy produced by her motion, and completely blocked the narrow +passage through which we were about to follow. Before we could +remove this obstruction by hauling it back out of the channel, the +floes were again pressed together, wedging it firmly and immovably +between them: the saws were immediately set to work, and used with +great effect; but it was not till eleven o'clock that we +succeeded, after seven hours' labour, in getting the Hecla into +the lanes of clear water which opened more and more to the +westward. + +On the 29th we had so much clear water, that the ships had a very +perceptible pitching motion, which, from the closeness of the ice, +does not very often occur in the Polar regions, and which is +therefore hailed with pleasure as an indication of an open sea. At +five P.M. the swell increased considerably, and, as the wind +freshened up from the northeast, the ice gradually disappeared; so +that by six o'clock we were sailing in an open sea, perfectly free +from obstruction of any kind. + +We now seemed all at once to have got into the headquarters of the +whales. They were so numerous that I directed the number to be +counted during each watch, and no less than eighty-two are +mentioned in this day's log. Mr. Allison, the Greenland master, +considered them generally as large ones, and remarked that a fleet +of whalers might easily have obtained a cargo here in a few days. +In the afternoon the wind broke us of from the N.N.W., which +obliged us to cast off the Griper, and we carried all sail ahead +to make the land. We saw it at half past five P.M., being the high +land about Possession Bay, and at the same time several streams of +loose but heavy ice came in sight, which a fresh breeze was +drifting fast to the southeastward. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze on the morning of the 31st, +which prevented our making much way to the westward. We stood in +towards Cape Byam Martin, and sounded in eighty fathoms on a rocky +bottom, at the distance of two miles in an east direction from it. +We soon after discovered the flagstaff which had been erected on +Possession Mount on the former expedition; an object which, though +insignificant in itself, called up every person immediately on +deck to look at and to greet it as an old acquaintance. + +The land immediately at the hack of Possession Bay rises in a +gentle slope from the sea, presenting an open and extensive space +of low ground, flanked by hills to the north and south. In this +valley, and even on the hills, to the height of six or seven +hundred feet above the sea, there was scarcely any snow, but the +mountains at the back were completely covered with it. Some pieces +of birch-bark having been picked up in the bed of this stream in +1818, which gave reason to suppose that wood might be found +growing in the interior, I directed Mr. Fisher to walk up it, +accompanied by a small party, and to occupy an hour or two while +the Griper was coming up, and Captain Sabine and myself were +employed upon the beach, in examining the nature and productions +of the country. + +Mr. Fisher reported, on his return, that he had followed the +stream between three and four miles, where it turned to the +southwest, without discovering any indications of a wooded +country; but a sufficient explanation respecting the birch-bark +was perhaps furnished by his finding, at the distance of a quarter +of a mile from the sea, a piece of whalebone two feet ten inches +in length and two inches in breadth, having a number of circular +holes very neatly and regularly perforated along one of its edges, +which had undoubtedly formed part of an Esquimaux sledge. This +circumstance affording a proof of the Esquimaux having visited +this part of the coast at no very distant period, it was concluded +that the piece of bark above alluded to had been brought hither by +these people. From the appearance of the whalebone, it might have +been lying there for four or five years. That none of the +Esquimaux tribe had visited this part of the coast since we landed +there in 1818, was evident from the flagstaff then erected still +remaining untouched. Mr. Fisher found every part of the valley +quite free from snow as high as he ascended it: and the following +fact seems to render it probable that no great quantity either of +snow or sleet had fallen here since our last visit. Mr. Fisher had +not proceeded far, till, to his great surprise, he encountered the +tracks of human feet upon the banks of the stream, which appeared +so fresh that he at first imagined them to have been recently made +by some natives, but which, on examination, were distinctly +ascertained to be the marks of our own shoes, made eleven months +before. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +We were now about to enter and to explore that great sound or +inlet which has obtained a degree of celebrity beyond what it +might otherwise have been considered to possess, from the very +opposite opinions which have been held with regard to it. To us it +was peculiarly interesting, as being the point to which our +instructions more particularly directed our attention; and I may +add, what I believe we all felt, it was that point of the voyage +which was to determine the success or failure of the expedition, +according as one or other of the opposite opinions alluded to +should be corroborated. It will readily be conceived, then, how +great our anxiety was for a change of the westerly wind and swell, +which, on the 1st of August, set down Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +and prevented our making much progress. Several whales were seen +in the course of the day, and Mr. Allison remarked that this was +the only part of Baffin's Bay in which he had ever seen young +whales; for it is a matter of surprise to the whalers in general, +that they seldom or never meet with young ones on this fishery, as +they are accustomed to do in the seas of Spitzbergen. + +The Griper continued to detain us so much, that I determined on +making the best of our way to the westward, and ordered the Hecla +to be hove to in the evening, and sent Lieutenant Liddon an +instruction, with some signals, which might facilitate our meeting +in case of fog; and I appointed as a place of rendezvous the +meridian of 85° west, and as near the middle of the sound as +circumstances would permit. As soon, therefore, as the boat +returned from the Griper, we carried a press of sail, and in the +course of the evening saw the northern shore of the sound looming +through the clouds which hung over it. + +The weather being clear in the evening of the 2d, we had the first +distinct view of both sides of the sound; and the difference in +the character of the two shores was very apparent; that on the +south consisting of high and peaked mountains, completely +snow-clad, except on the lower parts, while the northern coast has +generally a smoother outline, and had, comparatively with the +other, little snow upon it; the difference in this last respect +appearing to depend principally on the difference in their +absolute height. The sea was open before us, free from ice or +land; and the Hecla pitched so much from the westerly swell in the +course of the day, as to throw the water once or twice into the +stern windows; a circumstance which, together with other +appearances, we were willing to attribute to an open sea in the +desired direction. More than forty black whales were seen during +the day. + +We made little way on the 3d, but being favoured at length by the +easterly breeze which was bringing up the Griper, and for which we +had long been looking with much impatience, a crowd of sail was +set to carry us with all rapidity to the westward. It is more easy +to imagine than to describe the almost breathless anxiety which +was now visible in every countenance, while, as the breeze +continued to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The +mastheads were crowded by the officers and men during the whole +afternoon; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been +unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the +eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's-nest were +received; all, however, hitherto favourable to our most sanguine +hopes. + +Our course was nearly due west, and the wind still continuing to +freshen, took us in a few hours nearly out of sight of the Griper. +The only ice which we met with consisted of a few large bergs very +much washed by the sea; and the weather being remarkably clear, so +as to enable us to run with perfect safety, we were by midnight, +in a great measure, relieved from our anxiety respecting the +supposed continuity of land at the bottom of this magnificent +inlet, having reached the longitude of 83° 12', where the two +shores are still above thirteen leagues apart, without the +slightest appearance of any land to the westward of us for four or +five points of the compass. + +Having made the ship snug, so as to be in readiness to round to +should the land be seen ahead, and the Griper having come up +within a few miles of us, we again bore up at one A.M., the 4th. +At half past three, Lieutenant Beechey, who had relieved me on +deck, discovered from the crow's-nest a reef of rocks, in-shore of +us to the northward, on which the sea was breaking. The cliffs on +this part of the coast present a singular appearance, being +stratified horizontally, and having a number of regular projecting +masses of rock, broad at the bottom, and coming to a point at the +top, resembling so many buttresses, raised by art at equal +intervals. + +After lying-to for an hour, we again bore up to the westward, and +soon after discovered a cape, afterward named by Captain Sabine, +CAPE FELLFOOT, which appeared to form the termination of this +coast; and as the haze, which still prevailed to the south, +prevented our seeing any land in that quarter, and the sea was +literally as free from ice as any part of the Atlantic, we began +to flatter ourselves that we had fairly entered the Polar Sea, and +some of the most sanguine among us had even calculated the bearing +and distance of Icy Cape, as a matter of no very difficult or +improbable accomplishment. This pleasing prospect was rendered the +more flattering by the sea having, as we thought, regained the +usual oceanic colour, and by a long swell which was rolling in +from the southward and eastward. At six P.M., however, land was +reported to be seen ahead. The vexation and anxiety produced on +every countenance by such a report were but too visible, until, on +a nearer approach, it was found to be only an island, of no very +large extent, and that, on each side of it, the horizon still +appeared clear for several points of the compass. At eight P.M. we +came to some ice of no great breadth or thickness, extending +several miles in a direction nearly parallel to our course; and as +we could see clear water over it to the southward, I was for some +time in the hope that it would prove a detached stream, from which +no obstruction to our progress westerly was to be apprehended. At +twenty minutes past ten, however, the weather having become hazy +and the wind light, we perceived that the ice, along which we had +been sailing for the last two hours, was joined, at the distance +of half a mile to the westward of us, to a compact and impenetrable +body of floes, which lay across the whole breadth of the strait, +formed by the island and the western point of Maxwell Bay. We +hauled our wind to the northward, just in time to avoid being +embayed in the ice, on the outer edge of which a considerable surf, +the effect of the late gale, was then rolling. + +While the calm and thick weather lasted, a number of the officers +and men amused themselves in the boats, in endeavouring to kill +some of the white whales which were swimming about the ships in +great numbers; but the animals were so wary, that they would +scarcely suffer the boats to approach them within thirty or forty +yards without diving. Mr. Fisher described them to be generally +from eighteen to twenty feet in length; and he stated that he had +several times heard them emit a shrill, ringing sound, not unlike +that of musical glasses when badly played; This sound, he farther +observed, was most distinctly heard when they happened to swim +directly beneath the boat, even when they were several feet under +water, and ceased altogether on their coming to the surface. We +saw also, for the first time, one or two shoals of narwhals, +called by the sailors sea-unicorns. + +A steady breeze springing up from the W.N.W. in the afternoon, the +ships stood to the northward till we had distinctly made out that +no passage to the westward could at present be found between the +ice and the land. The weather having become clear about this time, +we perceived that there was a large open space to the southward, +where no land was visible; and for this opening, over which there +was a dark water-sky, our course was now directed. + +Since the time when we first entered Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +the sluggishness of the compasses, as well as the amount of their +irregularity produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, had +been found very rapidly, though uniformly, to increase as we +proceeded to the westward; so much, indeed, that, for the last two +days, we had been under the necessity of giving up altogether the +usual observations for determining the variation of the needle on +board the ships. This irregularity became more and more obvious as +we now advanced to the southward, which rendered it not improbable +that we were making a very near approach to the magnetic pole. For +the purposes of navigation, therefore, the compasses were from +this time no longer consulted; and in a few days afterward, the +binnacles were removed as useless lumber from the deck to the +carpenter's storeroom, where they remained during the rest of the +season. + +A dark sky to the southwest had given us hopes of finding a +westerly passage to the south of the ice along which we were now +sailing; more especially as the inlet began to widen considerably +as we advanced in that direction: but at three A.M. on the morning +of the 8th, we perceived that the ice ran close in with a point of +land bearing S.b.E. from us, which appeared to form the southern +extremity of the eastern shore. + +With the increasing width of the inlet we had flattered ourselves +with increasing hopes; but we soon experienced the mortification +of disappointment. The prospect from the crow's-nest began to +assume a very unpromising appearance, the whole of the western +horizon, from north round to S.b.E., being completely covered with +ice, consisting of heavy and extensive floes, beyond which no +indication of water was visible; instead of which there was a +bright and dazzling iceblink extending from shore to shore. The +western coast of the inlet, however, trended much more to the +westward than before, and no land was visible to the southwest, +though the horizon was so clear in that quarter, that, if any had +existed of moderate height, it might have been easily seen at this +time at the distance of ten or twelve leagues. From these +circumstances, the impression received at the time was, that the +land, both on the eastern and western side of this inlet, would be +one day found to consist of islands. + +A breeze sprung up from the northward on the morning of the 12th, +but the weather was so foggy for some hours that we did not know +in what direction it was blowing. As soon as the fog cleared away, +so as to enable us to see a mile or two around us, we found that +the floe to which we had anchored was drifting fast down upon +another body of ice to leeward, threatening to enclose the ships +between them. We therefore cast off and made sail, in order to +beat to the northward, which we found great difficulty in doing, +owing to the quantity of loose ice with which this part of the +inlet was now covered. A remarkably thick fog obscured the eastern +land from our view this evening at the distance of five or six +miles, while the western coast was distinctly visible at four +times that distance. + +The weather was beautifully calm and clear on the 13th, when, +being near an opening in the eastern shore, I took the opportunity +of examining it in a boat. It proved to be a bay, a mile wide at +its entrance, and three miles deep in an E.b.S. direction, having +a small but snug cove on the north side, formed by an island, +between which and the main land is a bar of rocks, which +completely shelters the cove from sea or drift ice. We found the +water so deep, that in rowing close along the shore we could +seldom get bottom with seven fathoms of line. The cliffs on the +south side of this bay, to which I gave the name of PORT BOWEN, +resemble, in many places, ruined towers and battlements; and +fragments of the rocks were constantly falling from above. At the +head of the bay is an extensive piece of low flat ground, +intersected by numerous rivulets, which, uniting at a short +distance from the beach, formed a deep and rapid stream, near the +mouth of which we landed. This spot was, I think, the most barren +I ever saw, the ground being almost entirely covered with small +pieces of slaty limestone, among which no vegetation appeared for +more than a mile, to which distance Mr. Ross and myself walked +inland, following the banks of the stream. Among the fragments we +picked up one piece of limestone, on which was the impression of a +fossil-shell. We saw here a great number of young black +guillemots, and a flock of ducks, which we supposed to be of the +eider species. + +The narwhals were here very numerous; these animals appear fond of +remaining with their backs exposed above the surface of the water, +in the same manner as the whale, but for a much longer time, and +we frequently also observed their horns erect, and quite +stationary for several minutes together. + +The whole of the 14th was occupied in an unsuccessful attempt to +find an opening in the ice to the westward, which remained +perfectly close and compact, with a bright iceblink over it. + +The ice continued in the same unfavourable state on the 15th; and +being desirous of turning to some account this vexatious but +unavoidable detention, I left the ship, accompanied by Captain +Sabine and Mr. Hooper, in order to make some observations on +shore, and directed Lieutenant Liddon to send a boat from the +Griper for the same purpose. We landed in one of the numerous +valleys or ravines which occur on this part of the coast, and at a +few miles' distance very much resemble bays, being bounded by high +hills that have the appearance of bluff headlands. We ascended +with some difficulty the hill on the south side of the ravine, +which is very steep, and covered with innumerable detached blocks +of limestone, some of which are constantly rolling down from +above, and afford a very insecure footing. From the top of this +hill, which is about six or seven feet above the level of the sea, +and commands an extensive view to the westward, the prospect was +by no means favourable to the immediate accomplishment of our +object. No water could be seen over the ice to the northwest, and +a bright and dazzling blink covered the whole space comprised +between the islands and the north shore. It was a satisfaction, +however, to find that no _land_ appeared which was likely to +impede our progress; and we had been too much accustomed to the +obstruction occasioned by ice, and too well aware of the +suddenness with which that obstruction is often removed, to be at +all discouraged by present appearances. + +On the top of this hill we deposited a bottle containing a short +notice of our visit, and raised over it a small mound of stones; +of these we found no want, for the surface was covered with small +pieces of schistose limestone, and nothing like soil or vegetation +could be seen. + +On the 17th we had a fresh breeze from the S.S.W., with so thick a +fog that, in spite of the most unremitting attention to the sails +and the steerage, the ships were constantly receiving heavy shocks +from the loose masses of ice with which the sea was covered, and +which, in the present state of the weather, could not be +distinguished at a sufficient distance to avoid them. On the +weather clearing up in the afternoon, we saw for the first time a +remarkable bluff headland, which forms the northeastern point of +the entrance into Prince Regent's Inlet, and to which I gave the +name of CAPE YORK. A little to the eastward of Cape Fellfoot, we +observed six stripes of snow near the top of the cliff, being very +conspicuous at a great distance, when viewed from the southward. +These stripes, which are formed by the drift of snow between the +buttress-like projections before described, and which remained +equally conspicuous on our return the following year, have +probably at all times much the same appearance, at least about +this season of the year, and may, on this account, perhaps, be +deemed worthy of notice as a landmark. + +There being still no prospect of getting a single mile to the +westward, in the neighbourhood of Prince Leopold's Islands, and a +breeze having freshened up from the eastward in the afternoon, I +determined to stand over once more towards the northern shore, in +order to try what could there be done towards effecting our +passage; and at nine P.M., after beating for several hours among +floes and streams of ice, we got into clear water near that coast, +where we found some swell from the eastward. There was just light +enough at midnight to enable us to read and write in the cabin. + +The wind and sea increased on the 19th, with a heavy fall of snow, +which, together with the uselessness of the compasses, and the +narrow space in which we were working between the ice and the +land, combined to make our situation for several hours a very +unpleasant one. + +On the 21st we had nothing to impede our progress but the want of +wind, the great opening through, which we had hitherto proceeded +from Baffin's Bay being now so perfectly clear of ice, that it was +impossible to believe it to be the same part of the sea, which, +but a day or two before, had been completely covered with floes to +the utmost extent of our view. In the forenoon we picked up a +small piece of wood, which appeared to have been the end of a +boat's yard, and which caused sundry amusing speculations among +our gentlemen; some of whom had just come to the very natural +conclusion that a ship had been here before us, and that, +therefore, we were not entitled to the honour of the first +discovery of that part of the sea on which we were now sailing; +when a stop was suddenly put to this and other ingenious +inductions by the information of one of the seamen, that he had +dropped it out of his boat a fortnight before. I could not get him +to recollect exactly the day on which it had been dropped, but +what he stated was sufficient to convince me that we were not at +that time more than ten or twelve leagues from our present +situation; perhaps not half so much; and that, therefore, here was +no current setting constantly in any one direction. + +We perceived, as we proceeded, that the land along which we were +sailing, and which, with the exception of some small inlets, had +appeared to be hitherto continuous from Baffin's Bay, began now to +trend much to the northward, beyond Beechey Island, leaving a +large open space between that coast and the distant land to the +westward, which now appeared like an island, of which the extremes +to the north and south were distinctly visible. The latter was a +remarkable headland, having at its extremity two small table-hills, +somewhat resembling boats turned bottom upward, and was named +CAPE HOTHAM. At sunset we had a clear and extensive view to the +northward, between Cape Hotham and the eastern land. On the +latter, several headlands were discovered and named; between the +northernmost of these, called CAPE BOWDEN, and the island to the +westward, there was a channel of more than eight leagues in width, +in which neither land nor ice could be seen from the masthead. To +this noble channel I gave the name of WELLINGTON. The arrival off +this grand opening was an event for which we had long been looking +with much anxiety and impatience; for the continuity of land to +the northward had always been a source of uneasiness to us, +principally from the possibility that it might take a turn to the +southward and unite with the coast of America. The appearance of +this broad opening, free from ice, and of the land on each side of +it, more especially that on the west, leaving scarcely a doubt on +our minds of the latter being an island, relieved us from all +anxiety on that score; and every one felt that we were now finally +disentangled from the land which forms the western side of +Baffin's Bay; and that, in fact, we had actually entered the Polar +Sea. + +Though two thirds of the month of August had now elapsed, I had +every reason to be satisfied with the progress which we had +hitherto made. I calculated upon the sea being navigable for six +weeks to come, and probably more, if the state of the ice would +permit us to edge away to the southward in our progress westerly: +our prospects, indeed, were truly exhilarating; the ships had +suffered no injury; we had plenty of provisions; crews in high +health and spirits; a sea, if not open, at least navigable; and a +zealous and unanimous determination, in both officers and men, to +accomplish, by all possible means, the grand object on which we +had the happiness to be employed. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110° +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +A calm which prevailed during the night kept us quite stationary +till three A.M. on the 23d, when a fresh breeze sprung up from the +northward, and all sail was made for Cape Hotham, to the southward +of which it was now my intention to seek a direct passage towards +Behring's Strait. Wellington Channel, to the northward of us, was +as open and navigable to the utmost extent of our view as any part +of the Atlantic; but as it lay at right angles to our coarse, and +there was still an opening at least ten leagues wide to the +southward of Cornwallis Island, I could have no hesitation in +deciding which of the two it was our business to pursue. It is +impossible to conceive anything more animating than the quick and +unobstructed run with which we were favoured, from Beechey Island +across to Cape Hotham. Most men have, probably, at one time or +another, experienced that elevation of spirits which is usually +produced by rapid motion of any kind; and it will readily be +conceived how much this feeling was heightened in us, in the few +instances in which it occurred, by the slow and tedious manner in +which the greater part of our navigation had been performed in +these seas. + +At noon we had reached the longitude of 94° 43' 15", the latitude +by observation being 74° 20' 52", when we found that the land +which then formed the western extreme on this side was a second +island, which I called GRIFFITH ISLAND. The ice in this +neighbourhood was covered with innumerable "hummocks," and the +floes were from seven to ten feet in thickness. + +After various unsuccessful attempts to get through the ice which +now lay in our way, we were at length so fortunate as to +accomplish this object by "boring" through a number of heavy +"streams," which occasioned the ships to receive many severe +shocks; and, at half an hour before midnight, we were able to, +pursue our course, through "sailing ice," to the westward. + +The weather was at this time remarkably serene and clear; and +although we saw a line of ice to the southward of us, lying in a +direction nearly east and west, or parallel to the course on which +we were steering, and some more land appeared to the westward, yet +the space of open water was still so broad, and the prospect from +the masthead, upon the whole, so flattering, that I thought the +chances of our separation had now become greater than before; and +I therefore considered it right to furnish Lieutenant Liddon with +fresh instructions, and to appoint some new place of rendezvous in +case of unavoidable separation from the Hecla. At ten o'clock, +after having had a clear view of the ice and of the land about +sunset, and finding that there was at present no passage to the +westward, we hauled off to the southeast, in the hope of finding +some opening in the ice to the southward, by which we might get +round in the desired direction. We were encouraged in this hope by +a dark "water-sky" to the southward; but, after running along the +ice till half past eleven without perceiving any opening, we again +bore up. There was in this neighbourhood a great deal of that +particular kind of ice called by the sailors "dirty ice," on the +surface of which were strewed sand, stones, and, in some +instances, moss: ice of this kind must, of course, at one time or +other, have been in close contact with the land. + +At ten A.M. I despatched Captain Sabine and Mr. Ross to the +eastern point of the island, which we were about to round in the +ships, in order to make the necessary observations, and to examine +the natural productions of the shore. Our latitude at noon was 75° +03' 12", long. 103° 44' 37", and the depth of water forty fathoms. +The gentlemen reported, on their return, that they had landed on a +sandy beach, near the east point of the island, which they found +to be more productive, and altogether more interesting, than any +other part of the shores of the Polar regions which we had yet +visited. The remains of Esquimaux habitations were found in four +different places. Six of these, which Captain Sabine had an +opportunity of examining, and which are situated on a level sandy +bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea, are described by +him as consisting of stones rudely placed in a circular, or, +rather, an elliptical form. They were from seven to ten feet in +diameter; the broad, flat sides of the stones standing vertically, +and the whole structure, if such it may be called, being exactly +similar to that of the summer huts of the Esquimaux which we had +seen at Hare Island the preceding year. Attached to each of them +was a smaller circle, generally four or five feet in diameter, +which had probably been the fireplace. The small circles were +placed indifferently as to their direction from the huts to which +they belonged; and from the moss and sand which covered some of +the lower stones, particularly those which composed the flooring +of the huts, the whole encampment appeared to have been deserted +for several years. Very recent traces of the reindeer and musk-ox +were seen in many places; and a head of the latter, with several +reindeers' horns, was brought on board. A few patches of snow +remained in sheltered situations; the ravines, however, which were +numerous, bore the signs of recent and considerable floods, and +their bottoms were swampy, and covered with very luxuriant moss +and other vegetation, the character of which differed very little +from that of the land at the bottom of Possession Bay. + +The dip of the magnetic needle was 88° 25' 58", and the variation +was now found to have changed from 128° 58' west, in the longitude +of 91° 48', where our last observations on shore had been made, to +165° 50' 09" east, at our present station; so that we had, in +sailing over the space included between those two meridians, +crossed immediately to the northward of the magnetic pole and had +undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon the globe where +the needle would have been found to vary 180°, or, in other words, +where its north pole would have pointed due south. + +The wind became very light from the eastward, and the weather +continued so foggy that nothing could be done during the night but +to stand off-and-on, by the soundings, between the ice and the +land. On the 29th, after a few hours of clear weather, the fog +came on again as thick as before; fortunately, however, we had +previously been enabled to take notice of several pieces of ice, +by steering for each of which in succession we came to the edge of +a floe, along which our course was to be pursued to the westward. +As long as we had this guidance, we advanced with great +confidence; but as soon as we came to the end of the floe, which +then turned off to the southward, the circumstances under which we +were sailing were perhaps such as have never occurred since the +early days of navigation. To the northward was the land; the ice, +as we supposed, to the southward; the compasses useless; and the +sun completely obscured by a fog so thick, that the Griper could +only now and then be seen at a cable's length astern. We had +literally, therefore, no mode, of regulating our course but by +once more trusting to the steadiness of the wind; and it was not a +little amusing, as well as novel, to see the quartermaster conning +the ship by looking at the dogvane. + +The weather cleared a little at intervals, but not enough to +enable us to proceed till nine A.M. on the 31st, when we cast off +from the ice, with a very light air from the northward. We +occasionally caught a glimpse of land through the heavy fog-banks +with which the horizon was covered, which was sufficient to give +us an idea of the true direction in which we ought to steer. Soon +after noon we were once more enveloped in a fog, which, however, +was not so thick as to prevent our having recourse to a new +expedient for steering the ships, which circumstances at the time +naturally suggested to our minds. Before the fog recommenced, and +while we were sailing on the course which, by the bearings of the +land, we knew to be the right one, the Griper was exactly astern +of the Hecla, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile. The +weather being fortunately not so thick as to prevent our still +seeing her at that distance, the quartermaster was directed to +stand aft, near the taffrail, and to keep her constantly astern of +us, by which means we contrived to steer a tolerably straight +course to the westward. The Griper, on the other hand, naturally +kept the Hecla right ahead; and thus, however ridiculous it may +appear, it is nevertheless true, that we steered one ship entirely +by the other for a distance of ten miles out of sixteen and a +half, which we sailed between one and eleven P.M. + +The wind died away on the morning of the 1st of September, and the +fog was succeeded by snow and sleet, which still rendered the +atmosphere extremely thick. At a quarter before four A.M., I was +informed by the officer of the watch that a breeze had sprung up, +and that there was very little ice near the ships. Anxious to take +advantage of these favourable circumstances, I directed all sail +to be made to the westward: there was no difficulty in complying +with the first part of this order; but to ascertain which way the +wind was blowing, and to which quarter of the horizon the ship's +head was to be directed, was a matter of no such easy accomplishment; +nor could we devise any means of determining this question till five +o'clock, when we obtained a sight of the sun through the fog, and +were thus enabled to shape our course, the wind being moderate from +the northward. + +At one A.M. on the 2d, a star was seen, being the first that had +been visible to us for more than two months. + +As we were making no way to the westward, I left the ship, +accompanied by a large party of officers and men, and was soon +after joined by the Griper's boats. The basis of this land is +sandstone; but we met with limestone also, occurring in loose +pieces on the surface, and several lumps of coal were brought in +by the parties who had traversed the island in different +directions. Our sportsmen were by no means successful, having seen +only two deer, which were too wild to allow them to get near them. +The dung of these animals, however, as well as that of the +musk-ox, was very abundant, especially in those places where the +moss was most luxuriant; every here and there we came to a spot of +this kind, consisting of one or two acres of ground, covered with +a rich vegetation, which was evidently the feeding-place of those +animals, there being quantities of their hair and wool lying +scattered about. Several heads of the musk-ox were picked up, and +one of the Hecla's seamen brought to the boat a narwhal's horn, +which he found on a hill more than a mile from the sea, and which +must have been carried thither by Esquimaux or by bears: three or +four brace of ptarmigan were killed, and these were the only +supply of this kind which we obtained. We found no indication of +this part of the island having been inhabited, unless the +narwhal's horn be considered as such. + +The wind continued light and variable till half past eight A.M. on +the 3d, when a breeze from the northward once more enabled us to +make some progress. I was the more anxious to do so from having +perceived that the main ice had, for the last twenty-four hours, +been gradually, though slowly, closing on the shore, thereby +contracting the scarcely navigable channel in which we were +sailing. The land which formed our western extreme was a low +point, five miles to the westward of our place of observation the +preceding day, which I named Point Ross, and the ice had already +approached this point so much that there was considerable doubt +whether any passage could be found between them. We had scarcely +cleared the point when the wind failed us, and the boats were +immediately sent ahead to tow, but a breeze springing up shortly +after from the westward, obliged us to have recourse to another +method of gaining ground, which we had not hitherto practised: +this was by using small anchors and whale-lines as warps, by which +means we made great progress, till, at forty minutes after noon, +we were favoured by a fresh breeze, which soon took us into an +open space of clear water to the northward and westward. A little +to the westward of Point Ross there was a barrier of ice, composed +of heavy masses firmly fixed to the ground at nearly regular +intervals for about a mile, in a direction parallel to the beach. +At right angles to this a second tier projected, of the same kind +of ice, extending to the shore, so that the two together formed a +most complete harbour, within which, I believe, a ship might have +been placed in case of necessity, without much danger from the +pressure of the external floes of ice. It was natural for us to +keep in view the possibility of our being obliged to pass the +ensuing winter in such a harbour; and it must be confessed, that +the apparent practicability of finding such tolerable security for +the ships as this artificial harbour afforded, should we fail in +discovering a more safe and regular anchorage, added not a little +to the confidence with which our operations were carried on during +the remainder of the season. + +At a quarter past nine P.M. we had the satisfaction of crossing +the meridian of 110° west from Greenwich, in the latitude of 74° +44' 20"; by which his majesty's ships under my orders became +entitled to the sum of five thousand pounds, being the reward +offered to such of his majesty's subjects as might succeed in +penetrating thus far to the westward within the Arctic Circle. In +order to commemorate the success which had hitherto attended our +exertions, the bluff headland which we had just passed was +subsequently called by the men BOUNTY CAPE; by which name I have +therefore distinguished it on the chart. + +The wind increasing to a fresh gale from the northward in the +afternoon, and the ice still continuing to oppose an impenetrable +barrier to our farther progress, I determined to beat up to the +northern shore of the bay, and, if a tolerable roadstead could be +found, to drop our anchors till some change should take place. +This was accordingly done at three P.M., in seven fathoms' water. +This roadstead, which I called the BAY OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER, +affords very secure shelter with the wind from E.N.E. round by +north to S.W., and we found it more free from ice than any other +part of the southern coast of the island. + +The Bay of the Hecla and Griper was the first spot where we had +dropped anchor since leaving the coast of Norfolk; a circumstance +which was rendered the more striking to us at the moment, as it +appeared to mark, in a very decided manner, the completion of one +stage of our voyage. The ensigns and pendants were hoisted as soon +as we had anchored, and it created in us no ordinary feelings of +pleasure to see the British flag waving for the first time in +these regions, which had hitherto been considered beyond the +limits of the habitable part of the world. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +As the wind still continued to blow strong from the northward on +the morning of the 6th, without any appearance of opening a +passage for us past Cape Hearne, I took the opportunity of sending +all our boats from both ships at eight A.M., to bring on board a +quantity of moss-peat which our gentlemen reported having found +near a small lake at no great distance from the sea, and which I +directed to be substituted for part of our usual allowance of +coals. Captain Sabine also went on shore to make the requisite +observations; and several of the officers of both ships to sport, +and to collect specimens of natural history. + +The wind beginning to moderate soon after noon, and there being at +length some appearance of motion in the ice near Cape Hearne, the +boats were immediately recalled from the shore, and returned at +two P.M., bringing some peat, which was found to burn tolerably, +but a smaller quantity than I had hoped to procure. We then made +sail for Cape Hearne, which we rounded at six o'clock, having no +soundings with from seventeen to twenty fathoms of line, at the +distance of a mile and a quarter from the point. + +I was beginning once more to indulge in those flattering hopes, of +which often-repeated disappointments cannot altogether deprive us, +when I perceived from the crow's-nest a compact body of ice, +extending completely in to the shore near the point which formed +the western extreme. We ran sufficiently close to be assured that +no passage to the westward could at present be effected, the floes +being literally upon the beach, and not a drop of clear water +being visible beyond them. I then ordered the ships to be made +fast to a floe, being in eighty fathoms' water, at the distance of +four or five miles from the beach. The season had now so far +advanced as to make it absolutely necessary to secure the ships +every night from ten till two o'clock, the weather being too dark +during that interval to allow of our keeping under way in such a +navigation as this, deprived as we were of the use of compasses. + +On the morning of the 8th, there being no prospect of any +immediate alteration in the ice, I directed the boats to be sent +on shore from both ships, to endeavour to procure some game, as +well as to examine the productions of this part of the island. On +going to the masthead, shortly after the boats had been +despatched, I found that the bight of ice in which the ships were +lying was not one floe, but formed by the close junction of two, +so that our situation was by no means so secure as I had supposed +for this bight was so far from being a protection to us, in case +of ice driving on shore, that it would probably be the means of +"nipping" us between the floes which formed it. I therefore +determined on immediately removing the ships in-shore, and went in +a boat to look out for a place for that purpose, there being no +alternative between this and our returning some distance to the +eastward, into the larger space of clear water which we had there +left behind us. I found that a heavy piece of ice aground in +twelve fathoms, at the distance of three hundred yards from the +beach, would suit our purpose for the Hecla, and another, in ten +fathoms, still nearer in-shore, was selected for the Griper. These +masses were from twenty to thirty feet above the sea, and each +about the length of the respective ships. + +At four P.M., the weather being quite calm, the ships were towed +in-shore by the boats, and made fast in the places selected for +them. + +Impatient and anxious as we were to make the most of the short +remainder of the present season, our mortification will easily be +imagined at perceiving, on the morning of the 9th, not only that +the ice was as close as ever to the westward, but that the floes +in our immediate neighbourhood were sensibly approaching the +shore. As there was no chance, therefore, of our being enabled to +move, I sent a party on shore at daylight to collect what coal +they could find, and in the course of the day, nearly two thirds +of a bushel, being about equal to the Hecla's daily expenditure, +was brought on board. Our sportsmen, who were out for several +hours, could only procure us a hare and a few ducks. + +On the 11th there was no alteration in the ice near the ships and +Mr. Bushnan, whom I despatched at daylight to the western cape, +reported on his return, that appearances were equally unpromising +in that quarter. Mr. Dealy was fortunate enough to kill the first +musk-ox that our sportsmen had yet been able to get near; but, as +it was at the distance of eight or ten miles from the ships, our +present situation with regard to the ice would not allow of my +sending a party of men to bring it on board. A piece of the meat +which Mr. Dealy brought with him was considered to taste tolerably +well, but its smell was by no means tempting. + +I must now mention an occurrence which had caused considerable +apprehension in our minds for the last two days, and the result of +which had very nearly proved of very serious importance to the +future welfare of the expedition. Early on the morning of the 11th +I received a note from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at +daylight on the preceding day, Mr. Fife, with a party of six men, +had been despatched from the Griper, with the hope of surprising +some reindeer and musk-oxen, whose tracks had been seen in a +ravine to the westward of the ships. As they had not yet returned, +in compliance with the instructions given to Mr. Fife, and had +only been supplied with a small quantity of provisions, it was +natural to apprehend that they had lost their way in pursuit of +game. I therefore recommended to Lieutenant Liddon to send a party +in search of his people, and Messrs. Reid, Beverly, and Wakeham, +who immediately volunteered their services on the occasion, were +accordingly despatched for this purpose. Soon after their +departure, however, it began to snow, which rendered the +atmosphere so extremely thick, especially on the hills along which +they had to travel, that this party also lost their way, in spite +of every precaution, but fortunately got sight of our rockets +after dark, by which they were directed to the ships, and returned +at ten o'clock, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, without +any intelligence of the absentees. + +At daylight on the following morning, I sent Lieutenant Hoppner, +with the Heck's fore-royal-mast rigged as a flagstaff, which he +erected on a conspicuous hill four or five miles inland, hoisting +upon it a large ensign, which might be seen at a considerable +distance in every direction. This expedient occurred to us as a +more certain mode of directing our absentees towards the ships +than that of sending out a number of parties, which I could not, +in common prudence as well as humanity, permit to go to any great +distance from the ships; but the snow fell so thick, and the drift +was so great during the whole of the 12th, that no advantage could +at that time be expected from it, and another night came without +the absent party appearing. + +Our apprehensions on their account was by this time increased to a +most painful degree, and I therefore ordered four parties, under +the command of careful officers, to be prepared to set out in +search of them the following morning. These parties carried with +them a number of pikes, having small flags attached to them, which +they were directed to plant at regular intervals, and which were +intended to answer the double purpose of guiding themselves on +their return and of directing the absent party, should they meet +with them, to the ships. For the latter purpose a bottle was fixed +to each pike, containing the necessary directions for their +guidance, and acquainting them that provisions would be found at +the large flagstaff on the hill. Our searching parties left the +ships soon after daylight, the wind still blowing hard from the +westward, with incessant snow, and the thermometer at 28°. This +weather continued without intermission during the day, and our +apprehensions for the safety of our people were excited to a most +alarming degree, when the sun began to descend behind the western +hills for the third time since they had left the ship; I will not, +therefore, attempt to describe the joyful feelings we suddenly +experienced, on the Griper's hoisting the signal appointed, to +inform us that her men, or a part of them, were seen on their +return. Soon, after we observed seven persons coming along the +beach to the eastward, who proved to be Mr. Nias and his party, +with four out of the seven men belonging to the Griper. From the +latter, consisting of a corporal of marines and three seamen, we +learned that they had lost their way within a few hours after +leaving the ship, and had wandered about without anything to guide +them till about ten o'clock on the following day, when they +descried the large flagstaff at a great distance. At this time the +whole party were together; but now unfortunately separated, in +consequence of a difference of opinion respecting the flagstaff, +which Mr. Fife mistook for a smaller one that had been erected +some days before at a considerable distance to the eastward of our +present situation; and with that impression, walked away in a +contrary direction, accompanied by two of his men. The other four, +who had now returned (of whom two were already much debilitated), +determined to make for the flagstaff. When they had walked some +distance and were enabled to ascertain what it was, one of them +endeavoured to overtake Mr. Fife, but was too much fatigued, and +returned to his comrades. They halted during a part of the night, +made a sort of hut of stones and turf to shelter them from the +weather, and kindled a little fire with gunpowder and moss to warm +their feet; they had never been in actual want of food, having +lived upon raw grouse, of which they were enabled to obtain a +quantity sufficient for their subsistence. In the morning they +once more set forward towards the flagstaff, which they reached +within three or four hours after Lieutenant Beechey had left some +provisions on the spot; having eaten some bread, and drunk a +little rum and water, a mixture which they described as perfectly +tasteless and clammy, they renewed their journey towards the +ships, and had not proceeded far, when, notwithstanding the snow +which was constantly falling, they met with footsteps which +directed them to Mr. Nias and his party, by whom they were +conducted to the ships. + +The account they gave us of Mr. Fife and his two companions led us +to believe that we should find them, if still living, at a +considerable distance to the westward; and some parties were just +about to set out in that direction, when the trouble and anxiety +which this mistake would have occasioned us were prevented by the +arrival of another of the searching parties, with the information +that Mr. Fife and the two men were on their way to the ships, +being about five miles to the eastward. Some fresh hands were, +immediately sent to bring them in, and they arrived on board at +ten P.M. after an absence of ninety-one hours, and having been +exposed during three nights to the inclemency of the first wintry +weather we had experienced. Almost the whole of this party were +much exhausted by cold and fatigue, and several of them were +severely frostbitten in their toes and fingers; but, by the skill +and unremitted attention of our medical gentlemen, they were in a +few days enabled to return to their duty. + +At three A.M. of Tuesday, the 14th, the thermometer fell to 9°; +and from this time the commencement of winter may fairly be dated. +On the 20th I considered it a duty incumbent upon me to call for +the opinions of the senior officers of the expedition as to the +expediency of immediately seeking a harbour in which the ships +might securely lie during the ensuing winter. The opinions of the +officers entirely concurring with my own as to the propriety of +immediately resorting to this measure, I determined, whenever the +ice and the weather would allow, to run back to the bay of the +Hecla and Griper, in which neighbourhood alone we had any reason +to believe that a suitable harbour might be found. + +At half past two on the morning of the 22d, the night signal was +made to weigh, and we began to heave at our cables; but such was +the difficulty of raising our anchor and of hauling in our +hawsers, owing to the stiffness of the ropes from frost and the +quantity of ice which had accumulated about them, that it was five +o'clock before the ships were under way. Our rudder, also, was so +choked by the ice which had formed about it, that it could not be +moved till a boat had been hauled under the stern, and the ice +beaten and cut away from it. We ran along to the eastward without +any obstruction, in a channel about five miles wide, till we were +within four or five miles of Cape Hearne, where the bay-ice, in +unbroken sheets of about one third of an inch in thickness, began +to offer considerable impediment to our progress. We at length, +however, struck soundings with twenty-nine fathoms of line, and at +eight P.M. anchored in nine fathoms, on a muddy bottom, a little +to the eastward of our situation on the 5th. + +In going to the westward we passed a shoal and open bay, +immediately adjacent to the harbour which we were now about to +examine, and soon after came to a reef of rocks, in some parts +nearly dry, extending, about three quarters of a mile to the +southward of a low point on the southeastern side of the harbour. +On rounding the reef, on which a quantity of heavy ice was lying +aground, we found that a continuous floe, four or five inches in +thickness, was formed over the whole harbour, which in every other +respect appeared to be fit for our purpose; and that it would be +necessary to cut a canal of two miles in length through the ice, +in order to get the ships into a secure situation for the winter. +We sounded the channel into the harbour about three quarters of a +mile, by making holes in the ice and dropping the lead through, +and found the depth from five to six fathoms. + +The ships weighed at six A.M. on the 24th. the wind being still at +north, and the weather moderate and fine. As soon as the Hecla was +under sail, I went ahead in a boat to sound, and to select an +anchorage for the ships. Near the southwestern point of this +harbour there is a remarkable block of sandstone, somewhat +resembling the roof of a house, on which the ships names were +subsequently engraved by Mr. Fisher. This stone is very +conspicuous in coming from the eastward, and, when kept open to +the southward of the grounded ice at the end of the reef, forms a +good landing mark for the channel into the harbour. Off the end of +the reef the water deepened to six fathoms, and the Hecla's anchor +was dropped in eight fathoms, half a mile within the reef, and +close to the edge of the ice through which the canal was to be +cut. The Griper arrived soon after, and by half past eight A.M. +both ships were secured in the proper position for commencing the +intended operations. + +As soon as our people had breakfasted, I proceeded with a small +party of men to sound and to mark with boarding-pikes upon the ice +the most direct channel we could find to the anchorage, having +left directions for every other officer and man in both ships to +be employed in cutting the canal. This operation was performed by +first marking out two parallel lines, distant from each other a +little more than the breadth of the larger ship. Along each of +these lines a cut was then made with an ice saw, and others again +at right angles to them, at intervals of from ten to twenty feet; +thus dividing the ice into a number of square pieces, which it was +again necessary to subdivide diagonally, in order to give room for +their being floated out of the canal. On returning from the upper +part of the harbour, where I had marked out what appeared to be +the best situation for our winter-quarters, I found that +considerable progress had been made in cutting the canal and in +floating the pieces out of it. To facilitate the latter part of +the process, the seamen, who are always fond of doing things in +their own way, took advantage of a fresh northerly breeze, by +setting some boats sails upon the pieces of ice, a contrivance +which saved both time and labour. This part of the operation, +however, was by far the most troublesome, principally on account +of the quantity of young ice which formed in the canal, and +especially about the entrance, where, before sunset, it had become +so thick that a passage could no longer be found for the detached +pieces without considerable trouble in breaking it. At half past +seven P.M. we weighed our anchors and began to warp up the canal, +but the northerly wind blew so fresh, and the people were so much +fatigued, having been almost constantly at work for nineteen +hours, that it was midnight before we reached the termination of +our first day's labour. + +All hands were again set to work on the morning of the 25th, when +it was proposed to sink the pieces of ice, as they were cut, under +the floe, instead of floating them out, the latter mode having now +become impracticable on account of the lower part of the canal, +through which the ships had passed, being, hard frozen during the +night. To effect this, it was necessary for a certain number of +men to stand upon one end of the piece of ice which it was +intended to sink, while other parties, hauling at the same time +upon ropes attached to the opposite end, dragged the block under +that part of the floe on which the people stood. The officers of +both ships took the lead in this employ, several of them standing +up to their knees in water frequently during the day, with the +thermometer generally at 12°, and never higher than 16°. At six +P.M. we began to move the ships. The Griper was made fast astern +of the Hecla, and the two ships' companies being divided on each +bank of the canal, with ropes from the Hecla's gangways, soon drew +the ships along to the end of our second day's work. + +Sunday, 26th.--I should on every account have been glad to make +this a day of rest to the officers and men; but the rapidity with +which the ice increased in thickness, in proportion as the general +temperature of the atmosphere diminished, would have rendered a +day's delay of serious importance. I ordered the work, therefore, +to be continued at the usual time in the morning; and such was the +spirited and cheerful manner in which this order was complied +with, as well as the skill which had now been acquired in the art +of sawing and sinking the ice, that although the thermometer was +at 6° in the morning, and rose no higher than 9° during the day, +we had completed the canal at noon, having effected more in four +hours than on either of the two preceding days. The whole length +of this canal was four thousand and eighty-two yards, or nearly +two miles and one third, and the average thickness of the ice was +seven inches. + +At half past one P.M. we began to track the ships along in the +same manner as before, and at a quarter past three we reached our +winter-quarters, and hailed the event with three loud and hearty +cheers from both ships' companies. The ships were in five fathoms +water, a cable's length from the beach on the northwestern side of +the harbour, to which I gave the name of WINTER HARBOUR; and I +called the group of islands which we had discovered in the Polar +Sea the NORTH GEORGIAN ISLANDS. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +Having, on the 19th October, reached the station where, in all +probability, we were destined to remain for at least eight or nine +months, during three of, which we were not to see the face of the +sun, my attention was immediately and imperiously called to +various important duties; many of them of a singular nature, such +as had, for the first time, devolved on any officer in his +majesty's navy, and might, indeed, be considered of rare +occurrence in the whole history of navigation. The security of the +ships and the preservation of the various stores were objects of +immediate concern. A regular system to be adopted for the +maintenance of good order and cleanliness, as most conducive to +the health of the crews during the long, dark, and dreary winter, +equally demanded my attention. + +Not a moment was lost, therefore, in the commencement of our +operations. The whole of the masts were dismantled except the +lower ones and the Hecla's main-topmast; the lower yards were +lashed fore and aft amidships, to support the planks of the +housing intended to be erected over the ships; and the whole of +this framework was afterward roofed over with a cloth. The boats, +spars, running rigging, and sails were removed on shore; and, as +soon as the ships were secured and housed over, my whole attention +was directed to the health and comfort of the officers and men. +The surgeon reported that not the slightest disposition to scurvy +had shown itself in either ship. + +Soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour, when the temperature of +the atmosphere had fallen considerably below zero of Fahrenheit, +we found that the steam from the coppers, as well as the breath +and other vapour generated in the inhabited parts of the ship, +began to condense into drops upon the beams and the sides, to such +a degree as to keep them constantly wet. In order to remove this +serious evil, a large stone oven, cased with cast iron, in which +all our bread was baked daring the winter, was placed on the main +hatchway, and the stovepipe led fore and aft on one side of the +lower deck, the smoke being thus carried up the fore hatchway. On +the opposite side of the deck an apparatus had been attached to +the galley-range for conveying a current of heated air between +decks. This apparatus simply consisted of an iron box, about fifteen +inches square, through which passed three pipes of two inches +diameter, communicating below with the external air, and uniting +above in a metal box, fixed to the side of the galley-range; to +this box a copper stovepipe was attached, and conveyed to the +middle part of the lower deck. When a fire was made under the +air-vessel, the air became heated in its passage through the three +pipes, from which it was conveyed through the stovepipe to the +men's berths. While this apparatus was in good order, a moderate +fire produced a current of air of the temperature of 87°, at the +distance of seventeen feet from the fireplace; and with a pipe of +wood, or any other imperfect conductor of heat, which would not +allow of its escaping by the way, it might undoubtedly be carried +to a much greater distance. By these means we were enabled to get +rid of the moisture about the berths where the people messed; but +when the weather became more severely cold, it still accumulated +in the bed places occasionally to a serious and very alarming +degree. Among the means employed to prevent the injurious effects +arising from this annoyance, one of the most efficacious, perhaps, +was a screen made of fearnaught, fixed to the beams round the +galley, and dropping within eighteen inches of the deck, which +served to intercept the steam from the coppers, and prevent it, +as before, from curling along the beams, and condensing upon them +into drops. + +For the preservation of health, and as a necessary measure of +economy, a few alterations were made in the quantity and quality +of the provisions issued. I directed the allowance of bread to be +permanently reduced to two thirds, a precaution which, perhaps, it +would have been as well to adopt from the commencement of the +voyage. A pound of preserved meat, together with one pint of +vegetable or concentrated soup per man, was substituted for one +pound of salt beef weekly; a proportion of beer and wine was +served in lieu of spirits; and a small quantity of sourkrout and +pickles, with as much vinegar as could be used, was issued at +regular intervals. The daily proportion of lime-juice and sugar +was mixed together, and with a proper quantity of water, was drunk +by each man in presence of an officer appointed to attend to this +duty. This latter precaution may appear to have been unnecessary +to those who are not aware how much sailors resemble children in +all those points in which their own health and comfort are +concerned. Whenever any game was procured, it was directed to be +invariably served in lieu of, and not in addition to, the +established allowance of other meat, except in a few extraordinary +cases; when such an indulgence was allowed; and in no one +instance, either in quantity or quality, was the slightest +preference given to the officers. + +Great attention was paid to the clothing of the men, and one day +in the week was appointed for the examination of the men's shins +and gums by the medical gentlemen, in order that any slight +appearance of the scurvy might at once be detected, and checked by +timely and adequate means. + +Under circumstances of leisure and inactivity, such as we were now +placed in, and with every prospect of its continuance for a very +large portion of the year, I was desirous of finding some +amusement for the men during this long and tedious interval. I +proposed, therefore, to the officers to get up a play occasionally +on board the Hecla, as the readiest means of preserving among our +crews that cheerfulness and good-humour which had hitherto +subsisted. In this proposal I was readily seconded by the officers +of both ships; and Lieutenant Beechey having been duly elected as +stage-manager, our first performance was fixed for the 5th of +November, to the great delight of the ships' companies. In these +amusements I gladly undertook a part myself, considering that an +example of cheerfulness, by giving a direct countenance to +everything that could contribute to it, was not the least +essential part of my duty, under the peculiar circumstances in +which we were placed. + +In order still farther to promote good-humour among ourselves, as +well as to furnish amusing occupation during the hours of constant +darkness, we set on foot a weekly newspaper, which was to be +called the _North Georgia Gazette and Winter Chronicle_, and of +which Captain Sabine undertook to be the editor, under the promise +that it was to be supported by original contributions from the +officers of the two ships: and I can safely say, that the weekly +contributions had the happy effect of employing the leisure hours +of those who furnished them, and of diverting the mind from the +gloomy prospect which would sometimes obtrude itself on the +stoutest heart. + +Immediately on our arrival in harbour, Captain Sabine had employed +himself in selecting a place for the observatory, which was +erected in a convenient spot, about seven hundred yards to the +westward of the ships. It was also considered advisable +immediately to set about building a house near the beach for the +reception of the clocks and instruments. For this purpose we made +use of a quantity of fir-plank, which was intended for the +construction of spare boats, and which was so cut as not to injure +it for that purpose. The ground was so hard frozen that it +required great labour to dig holes for the upright posts which +formed the support of the sides. The walls of this house being +double, with moss placed between the two, a high temperature +could, even in the severest weather which we might be doomed to +experience, be kept up in it without difficulty by a single stove. + +After our arrival in port we saw several reindeer and a few coveys +of grouse; but the country is so destitute of everything like +cover of any kind, that our sportsmen were not successful in their +hunting excursions, and we procured only three reindeer previous +to the migration of these and the other animals from the island, +which took place before the close of the month of October, leaving +only the wolves and foxes to bear us company during the winter. +The full-grown deer which we killed in the autumn, gave us from +one hundred and twenty to one hundred and seventy pounds of meat +each, and a fawn weighed eighty-four pounds. + +On the 1st of October, Captain Sabine's servant, having been at +some distance from the ships to examine a fox-trap, was pursued by +a large white bear, which followed his footsteps the whole way to +the ships, where he was wounded by several balls, but made his +escape after all. This bear, which was the only one we saw during +our stay in Winter Harbour, was observed to be more purely white +than any we had before seen, the colour of these animals being +generally that of a dirtyish yellow when contrasted with the +whiteness of the ice and snow. + +Some deer being seen near the ships on the 10th, a party was +despatched after them, some of whom having wounded a stag, and +being led on by the ardour of pursuit, forgot my order that every +person should be on board before sunset, and did not return till +late, after we had suffered much apprehension their account. John +Pearson, a marine belonging to the Griper, who was the last that +returned on board, had his hands severely frostbitten, having +imprudently gone away without mittens, and with a musket in his +hand. A party of our people most providentially found him, +although the night was very dark, just as he had fallen down a +steep bank of snow, and was beginning to feel that degree of +torpor and drowsiness which, if indulged, inevitably proves fatal. +When he was brought on board his fingers were quite stiff, and +bent into the shape of that part of the musket which he had been +carrying; and the frost had so far destroyed the animation in his +fingers on one hand, that it was necessary to amputate three of +them a short time after, notwithstanding all the care and +attention paid to him by the medical gentlemen. The effect which +exposure to severe frost has in benumbing the mental as well as +the corporeal faculties, was very striking in this man, as well as +in two of the young gentlemen who returned after dark, and of whom +we were anxious to make inquiries respecting Pearson. When I sent +for them into my cabin, they looked wild, spoke thick and +indistinctly, and it was impossible to draw from them a rational +answer to any of our questions. After being on board for a short +time, the mental faculties appeared gradually to return with the +returning circulation, and it was not till then that a looker-on +could easily persuade himself that they had not been drinking too +freely. In order to guard in some measure against the danger of +persons losing their way, which was more and more to be +apprehended as the days became shorter and the ground more covered +with snow, which gives such a dreary sameness to the country, we +erected on all the hills within two or three miles of the harbour, +finger-posts pointing towards the ships. + +I have before remarked that all the water which we made use of +while within the polar circle was procured from snow either +naturally or artificially dissolved. Soon after the ships were +laid up for the winter, it was necessary to have recourse entirely +to the latter process, which added materially to the expenditure +of fuel during the winter months. The snow for this purpose was +dug out of the drifts which had formed upon the ice round the +ships, and dissolved in the coppers. We found it necessary always +to strain the water thus procured, on account of the sand which +the heavy snowdrifts brought from the island, after which it was +quite pure and wholesome. + +On the 16th it blew a strong gale from the northward, accompanied +by such a constant snowdrift, that, although the weather was quite +clear overhead, the boathouse at the distance of three or four +hundred yards could scarcely be seen from the ships. On such +occasions no person was permitted on any account to leave the +ships. Indeed, when this snowdrift occurred, as it frequently did +in the winter, with a hard gale and the thermometer very low, I +believe that no human being could have remained alive after an +hour's exposure to it. In order, therefore, to secure a +communication between the two ships, a distance not exceeding half +a cable's length, as well as from the ships to the house on shore, +a line was kept extended, as a guide from one to the other. The +meridian, altitude of the sun was observed this day by an +artificial horizon, which I noticed from the circumstance of its +being the last time we had an opportunity of observing it for +about four months. + +On the 26th the sun afforded us sufficient light or writing and +reading in my cabin, the stern-windows exactly facing the south, +from half past nine till half past two; for the rest of the +four-and-twenty hours, we lived, of course, by candle-light. +Nothing could exceed the beauty of the sky to the southeast and +southwest at sunrise and sunset about this period: near the +horizon there was generally a rich bluish purple and a bright arch +of deep red above, the one mingling imperceptibly with the other. + +It now became rather a painful experiment to touch any metallic +substance in the open air with the naked hand; the feeling +produced by it exactly resembling that occasioned by the opposite +extreme of intense heat, and taking off the skin from the part +affected. We found it necessary, therefore, to use great caution +in handling our sextants and other instruments, particularly the +eye-pieces of telescopes, which, if suffered to touch the face, +occasioned an intense burning pain; but this was easily remedied +by covering them over with soft leather. Another effect, with +regard to the use of instruments, began to appear about this time. +Whenever any instrument which had been some time exposed to the +atmosphere, so as to be cooled down to the same temperature, was +suddenly brought below into the cabins, the vapour was instantly +condensed all around it, so as to give the instrument the +appearance of smoking, and the glasses were covered almost +instantly with a thin coating of ice, the removal of which +required great caution, to prevent the risk of injuring them, +until it had gradually thawed, as they acquired the temperature of +the cabin. When a candle was placed in a certain direction from +the instrument with respect to the observer, a number of very +minute _spiculæ_ of snow were also seen sparkling around the +instrument, at the distance of two or three inches from it, +occasioned, as we supposed, by the cold atmosphere produced by the +low temperature of the instrument almost instantaneously +congealing into that form the vapour which floated in its +immediate neighbourhood. + +The 4th of November being the last day that the sun would, +independently of the effects of refraction, be seen above our +horizon till the 8th of February, an interval of ninety-six days, +it was a matter of considerable regret to us that the weather +about this time was not sufficiently clear to allow us to see and +make observations on the disappearance of that luminary, in order +that something might be attempted towards determining the amount +of the atmospheric refraction at a low temperature. But though we +were not permitted to take a last farewell, for at least three +months, of that cheering orb, "of this great world both eye and +soul," we nevertheless felt that this day constituted an important +and memorable epoch in our voyage. We had some time before set +about the preparations for our winter's amusements; and the +theatre being ready, we opened on the 5th November, with the +representation of _Miss in her Teens_, which afforded to the men +such a fund of amusement as fully to justify the expectations we +had formed of the utility of theatrical entertainments under our +present circumstances, and to determine me to follow them up at +stated periods. I found, indeed, that even the occupation of +fitting up the theatre and taking it to pieces again, which +employed a number of the men for a day or two before and after +each performance, was a matter of no little importance, when the +immediate duties of the ship appeared by no means sufficient for +that purpose; for I dreaded the want of employment as one of the +worst evils that was likely to befall us. + +About the time of the sun's leaving us, the wolves began to +approach the ships more boldly, howling most piteously on the +beach near us, sometimes for hours together, and on one or two +occasions coming alongside the ships, when everything was quiet at +night; but we seldom saw more than one or two together, and +therefore could form no idea of their number. These animals were +always very shy of coming near our people; and though evidently +suffering much from hunger, never attempted to attack any of them. +The white foxes used also to visit the ships at night, and one of +these was caught in a trap set under the Griper's bows. The +uneasiness displayed by this beautiful little animal during the +time of his confinement, whenever he heard the howling of a wolf +near the ships, impressed us with the opinion that the latter is +in the habit of hunting the fox as his prey. + +The temperature of the atmosphere having about this time become +considerably lower than before, the cracking of the timbers was +very frequent and loud for a time; but generally ceased altogether +in an hour or two after this fall had taken place in the +thermometer, and did not occur again at the same temperature +during the winter. The wind blowing fresh from the northward, with +a heavy snowdrift, made the ship very cold below; so that the +breath and other vapour accumulated during the night in the bed +places and upon the beams, and then immediately froze; hence it +often occupied all hands for two or three hours during the day to +scrape the ice away, in order to prevent the bedding from becoming +wet by the increase of temperature occasioned by the fires. It was +therefore found necessary to keep some of the fires in between +decks at night, when the thermometer was below -15° or -20° in the +open air, especially when the wind was high. To assist in keeping +the lower decks warm, as well as to retard, in some slight degree, +the formation of ice immediately in contact with the ships' bends, +we banked the snow up against their sides as high as the main +chains; and canvass screens were nailed round all the hatchways on +the lower deck. + +The stars of the second magnitude in Ursa Major were just +perceptible to the naked eye a little after noon this day, and the +Aurora Borealis appeared faintly in the southwest at night. About +this time our medical gentlemen began to remark the extreme +difficulty with which sores of every kind healed; a circumstance +that rendered it the more necessary to be cautious in exposing the +men to frostbites, lest the long inactivity and want of exercise +during the cure of sores, in other respects trifling, should +produce serious effects upon the general health of the patients. + +During the following fortnight we were chiefly occupied in +observing various phenomena in the heavens, the vivid coruscations +of the Aurora Borealis, the falling of meteors, and in taking +lunar distances; but the difficulty of making observations in this +climate is inconceivably great; on one occasion the mercury of the +artificial horizon froze into a solid mass. + +About this part of the winter we began to experience a more +serious inconvenience from the bursting of the lemon-juice bottles +by frost, the whole contents being frequently frozen into a solid +mass, except a small portion of highly concentrated acid in the +centre, which in most instances was found to have leaked out, so +that when the ice was thawed it was little better than water. This +evil increased to a very alarming degree in the course of the +winter: some cases being opened in which more than two thirds of +the lemon-juice was thus destroyed, and the remainder rendered +nearly inefficient. + +It was at first supposed that this accident might have been +prevented by not quite filling the bottles, but it was afterward +found that the corks flying out did not save them from breaking. +We observed that the greatest damage was done in those cases which +were stowed nearest to the ship's side, and we therefore removed +all the rest amidships; a precaution which, had it been sooner +known and adopted, would probably have prevented at least a part +of the mischief. The vinegar also became frozen in the casks in +the same manner, and lost a great deal of its acidity when thawed. +This circumstance conferred an additional value on a few gallons +of very highly concentrated vinegar, which had been sent out on +trial upon this and the preceding voyage, and which, when mixed +with six or seven times its own quantity of water, was sufficiently +acid for every purpose. This vinegar, when exposed to the +temperature of 25° below zero, congealed only into a consistence +like that of the thickest honey, but was never sufficiently hard +to break any vessel which contained it. There can be no doubt, +therefore, that on this account, as well as to save stowage, this +kind of vinegar should exclusively be used in these regions; and +for similar reasons of still greater importance, the lemon-juice +should be concentrated. + +We had now reached the shortest day, Wednesday, the 22d, and such +was the occupation which we had hitherto contrived to find during +the first half of our long and gloomy winter, that the quickness +with which it had come upon us was a subject of general remark. So +far, indeed, were we from wanting that occupation of which I had +been apprehensive, especially among the men that it accidentally +came to my knowledge about this period that they complained of not +having time to mend their clothes. This complaint I was as glad to +hear as desirous to rectify; and I therefore ordered that, in +future, one afternoon in each week should be set aside for that +particular purpose. + +The circumstances of our situation being such as have never before +occurred to the crews of any of his majesty's ships, it may not, +perhaps, be considered wholly uninteresting to know in what manner +our time was thus so fully occupied throughout the long and severe +winter which it was our lot to experience, and particularly during +a three months' interval of nearly total darkness. + +The officers and quartermasters were divided into four watches, +which were regularly kept as at sea, while the remainder of the +ships' company were allowed to enjoy their night's rest +undisturbed. The hands were turned up at a quarter before six, and +both decks were well rubbed with stones and warm sand before eight +o'clock, at which time, as usual at sea, both officers and men +went to breakfast. Three quarters of an hour being allowed after +breakfast for the men to prepare themselves for muster, we then +beat to divisions punctually at a quarter past nine, when every +person on board attended on the quarter deck, and a strict +inspection of the men took place as to their personal cleanliness, +and the good condition, as well as sufficient warmth of their +clothing. The reports of the officers having been made to me, the +people were then allowed to walk about, or, more usually, to run +round the upper deck, while I went down to examine the state of +that below. The state of this deck may be said, indeed, to have +constituted the chief source of our anxiety, and to have occupied +by far the greatest share of our attention at this period. +Whenever any dampness appeared, or, what more frequently happened, +any accumulation of ice had taken place during the preceding +night, the necessary means were immediately adopted for removing +it; in the former case usually by rubbing the wood with cloths, +and then directing the warm airpipe towards the place; and in the +latter by scraping off the ice, so as to prevent its wetting the +deck by any accidental increase of temperature. In this respect +the bed-places were particularly troublesome; the inner partition, +or that next the ship's side, being almost invariably covered with +more or less dampness or ice, according to the temperature of the +deck during the preceding night. This inconvenience might, to a +great degree, have been avoided by a sufficient quantity of fuel +to keep up two good fires on the lower deck throughout the +twenty-four hours; but our stock of coals would by no means permit +this, bearing in mind the possibility of our spending a second +winter within the Arctic circle; and this comfort could only, +therefore, be allowed on a few occasions during the most severe +part of the winter. + +In the course of my examination of the lower deck I had always an +opportunity of seeing those few men who were on the sick list, and +of receiving from Mr. Edwards a report of their respective cases; +as also of consulting that gentleman as to the means of improving +the warmth, ventilation, and general comfort of the inhabited +parts of the ship. Having performed this duty, we returned to the +upper deck, where I personally inspected the men; after which they +were sent out to walk on shore, when the weather would permit, +till noon, when they returned on board to their dinner. When the +day was too inclement for them to take this exercise, they were +ordered to run round and round the deck, keeping step to the tune +of an organ, or, not unfrequently, to a song of their own singing. +Among the men were a few who did not at first quite like this +systematic mode of taking exercise; but when they found that no +plea except that of illness was admitted as an excuse, they not +only willingly and cheerfully complied, but made it the occasion +of much humour and frolic among themselves. + +The officers, who dined at two o'clock, were also in the habit of +occupying one or two hours in the middle of the day in rambling on +shore, even in our darkest period, except when a fresh wind and a +heavy snowdrift confined them within the housing of the ships. It +may well be imagined that, at this period, there was but little to +be met with in our walks on shore which could either amuse or +interest us. The necessity of not exceeding the limited distance +of one or two miles, lest a snowdrift, which often rises very +suddenly, should prevent our return, added considerably to the +dull and tedious monotony which day after day presented itself. To +the southward was the sea, covered with one unbroken surface of +ice, uniform in its dazzling whiteness, except that, in some +parts, a few hummocks were seen thrown up somewhat above the +general level. Nor did the land offer much greater variety, being +almost entirely covered with snow, except here and there a brown +patch of bare ground in some exposed situations, where the wind +had not allowed the snow to remain. When viewed from the summit of +the neighbouring hills, on one of those calm and clear days which +not unfrequently occurred during the winter, the scene was such as +to induce contemplations which had, perhaps, more of melancholy +than of any other feeling. Not an object was to be seen on which +the eye could long rest with pleasure, unless when directed to the +spot where our ships lay and where our little colony was planted. +The smoke which there issued from the several fires, affording a +certain indication of the presence of man, gave a partial +cheerfulness to this part of the prospect; and the sound of +voices, which, during the cold weather, could be heard at a much +greater distance than usual, served now and then to break the +silence which reigned around us; a silence far different from that +peaceable composure which characterizes the landscape of a +cultivated country; it was the deathlike stillness of the most +dreary desolation, and the total absence of animated existence. +Such, indeed, was the want of objects to afford relief to the eye +or amusement to the mind, that a stone of more than usual size +appearing above the snow in the direction in which we were going, +immediately became a mark on which our eyes were unconsciously +fixed, and towards which we mechanically advanced. + +We had frequent occasion, in our walks on shore, to remark the +deception which takes place in estimating the distance and +magnitude of objects when viewed over an unvaried surface of snow. +It was not uncommon for us to direct our steps towards what we +took for a large mass of stone at the distance of half a mile from +us, but which we were able to take up in our hands after one +minute's walk. This was more particularly the case when ascending +the brow of a hill, nor did we find that the deception became less +on account of the frequency with which we experienced its effects. + +In the afternoon the men were usually occupied in drawing and +knotting yarns, and in making points and gaskets; a never-failing +resource where mere occupation is required, and which it was +necessary to perform entirely on the lower deck, the yarns +becoming so hard and brittle, when exposed on deck to the +temperature of the atmosphere, as to be too stiff for working, and +very easily broken. I may in this place remark, that our lower +rigging became extremely slack during the severity of the winter, +and gradually tightened again as the spring returned: effects the +very reverse of those which we had anticipated, and which I can +only account for by the extreme dryness of the atmosphere in the +middle of winter, and the subsequent increase of moisture. + +At half past five in the evening the decks were cleared up, and at +six we again beat to divisions, when the same examination of the +men and of their berths and bed-places took place as in the +morning; the people then went to their supper, and the officers to +tea. After this time the men were permitted to amuse themselves as +they pleased, and games of various kinds, as well as dancing and +singing occasionally, went on upon the lower deck till nine +o'clock, when they went to bed and their lights were extinguished. +In order to guard against accidents by fire, where so many fires +and lights were necessarily in use, the quartermasters visited the +lower deck every half hour during the night, and made their report +to the officers of the watches that all was, in this respect, safe +below; and to secure a ready supply of water in case of fire, a +hole was cut twice a day in the ice, close alongside of each ship. +It is scarcely necessary to add, that the evening occupations of +the officers were of a more rational kind than those which engaged +the attention of the men. Of these, reading and writing were the +principal employments, to which were occasionally added a game of +chess, or a tune on the flute or violin, till half past ten, about +which time we all retired to rest. + +Such were the employments which usually occupied us for six days +in the week, with such exceptions only as circumstances at the +time suggested. On Sundays divine service was invariably +performed, and a sermon read on board both ships; the prayer +appointed to be daily used at sea being altered, so as to adapt it +to the service in which we were engaged, the success which had +hitherto attended our efforts, and the peculiar circumstances +under which we were at present placed. The attention paid by the +men to the observance of their religious duties was such as to +reflect upon them the highest credit, and tended in no small +degree to the preservation of that regularity and good conduct for +which, with very few exceptions, they were invariably distinguished. + +Our theatrical entertainments took place regularly once a +fortnight, and continued to prove a source of infinite amusement +to the men. Our stock of plays was so scanty, consisting of one or +two odd volumes, which happened accidentally to be on board, that +it was with difficulty we could find the means of varying the +performances sufficiently; our authors, therefore, set to work, +and produced, as a Christmas piece, a musical entertainment, +expressly adapted to our audience, and having such a reference to +the service on which we were engaged, and the success we had so +far experienced, as at once to afford a high degree of present +recreation, and to stimulate, if possible, the sanguine hopes +which were entertained by all on board, of the complete +accomplishment of our enterprise. We were at one time apprehensive +that the severity of the weather would prevent the continuance of +this amusement, but the perseverance of the officers overcame +every difficulty; and, perhaps for the first time since theatrical +entertainments were invented, more than one or two plays were +performed on board the Hecla with the thermometer below zero on +the stage. + +The _North Georgia Gazette_, which I have already mentioned, was a +source of great amusement, not only to the contributors, but to +those who, from diffidence of their own talents or other reasons, +could not be prevailed on to add their mite to the little stock of +literary composition which was weekly demanded; for those who +declined to write were not unwilling to read, and more ready to +criticise than those who wielded the pen; but it was that +good-humoured sort of criticism that could not give offence. The +subjects handled in this paper were of course various, but +generally applicable to our own situation. + +The return of each successive day had been always very decidedly +marked by a considerable twilight for some time about noon, that +on the shortest day being sufficient to enable us to walk out very +comfortably for about two hours.[*] There was usually, in clear +weather, a beautiful arch of bright red light overspreading the +southern horizon for an hour or two before and after noon, the +light increasing, of course, in strength, as the sun approached +the meridian. Short as the day now was, if, indeed, any part of +the twenty-four hours could be properly called by that name, the +reflection of light from the snow, aided occasionally by a bright +moon, was at all times sufficient to prevent our experiencing, +even under the most unfavourable circumstances, anything like the +gloomy night which occurs in more temperate climates. Especial +care was taken, during the time the sun was below the horizon, to +preserve the strictest regularity in the time of our meals, and in +the various occupations which engaged our attention during the +day; and this, together with the gradual and imperceptible manner +in which the days had shortened, prevented this kind of life, so +novel to us in reality, from appearing very inconvenient, or, +indeed, like anything out of the common way. It must be confessed, +however, that we were not sorry to arrive, without any serious +suffering, at the shortest day; and we watched, with no ordinary +degree of pleasure, the slow approach of the returning sun. + +[Footnote: It will, perhaps, give the best idea of the power of +the sun's light afforded us on this day, to state, that we could, +at noon, read with tolerable ease the same sized type as that in +which this note is printed; but this could only be done by turning +the book directly towards the south.] + +On Christmas day the weather was raw and cold, with a considerable +snowdrift, though the wind was only moderate from the N.W.; but +the snow which falls during the severe winter of this climate is +composed of spiculæ so extremely minute, that it requires very +little wind to raise it and carry it along. To mark the day in the +best manner which circumstances would permit divine service was +performed on board the ships; and I directed a small increase in +the men's usual proportion of fresh meat as a Christmas dinner, as +well as an additional allowance of grog, to drink the health of +their friends in England. The officers also met at a social and +friendly dinner, and the day passed with much of the same kind of +festivity by which it is usually distinguished at home; and, to +the credit of the men be it spoken, without any of that disorder +by which it is too often observed by seamen. A piece of English +roast-beef, which formed part of the officers' dinner, had been on +board since the preceding May, and preserved without salt during +that period merely by the antiseptic powers of a cold atmosphere. + +A great many frostbites occurred about this time, 30th, +principally in the men's feet, even when they had been walking +quickly on shore for exercise. On examining their boots, Mr. +Edwards remarked, that the stiffness of the thick leather of which +they were made was such as to cramp the feet, and prevent the +circulation from going on freely; and that this alone was +sufficient to account for their feet having been frostbitten. +Being very desirous of avoiding these accidents, which, from the +increased sluggishness with which the sores healed, were more and +more likely to affect the general health of the patients by long +confinement, I directed a pair of canvass boots, lined with +blanketing or some other woollen stuff, to be made for each man, +using raw hide as soles: this completely answered the desired +purpose, as scarcely any frostbites in the feet afterward +occurred, except under circumstances of very severe exposure. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +January 1, 1820.--I received this morning the first unpleasant +report of the scurvy having made its appearance among us: Mr. +Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla, had for some days past been +complaining of pains in his legs, which Mr. Edwards at first took +to be rheumatic, but which, together with the appearance of his +gums, now left no doubt of the symptoms being scorbutic. It is so +uncommon a thing for this disease to make its first appearance +among the officers, that Mr. Edwards was naturally curious to +inquire into the cause of it; and at length discovered that Mr. +Scallon's bedding was in so damp a state, in consequence of the +deposite of moisture in his bed-place, which I have before +mentioned, as to leave no doubt that to this circumstance, as the +immediate exciting cause, his illness might justly be attributed. +The difficulty of preventing this deposite of moisture, and the +consequent accumulation of ice, was much greater in the officers' +bed-places than in those of the men, in consequence of the former +being necessarily placed in close contact with the ship's sides, +and forming an immediate communication, as it were, with the +external atmosphere; whereas in the latter there was a vacant +interval of eighteen inches in width interposed between them. To +prevent as much as possible, therefore, the injurious effects of +this evil upon the health of the officers, I appointed certain +days for the airing of their bedding by the fires, as well as for +that of the ships' companies. Every attention was paid to Mr. +Scallon's case by the medical gentlemen, and all our anti-scorbutics +were put in requisition for his recovery: these consisted +principally of preserved vegetable soups, lemon-juice, and sugar, +pickles, preserved currants and gooseberries, and spruce beer. I +began also, about this time, to raise a small quantity of mustard +and cress in my cabin, in small shallow boxes filled with mould, +and placed along the stovepipe; by these means, even in the severity +of winter, we could generally ensure a crop at the end of the sixth +or seventh day after sowing the seed, which, by keeping several +boxes at work, would give to two or three scorbutic patients nearly +an ounce of salad each daily, even though the necessary economy in +our coals did not allow of the fire being kept in at night. The +mustard and cress thus raised were necessarily colourless, from the +privation of light; but, as far as we could judge, they possessed +the same pungent aromatic taste as if grown under ordinary +circumstances. So effectual were these remedies in Mr. Scallon's +case, that, on the ninth evening from the attack, he was able to +walk about on the lower deck for some time, and he assured me that +he could then "run a race." + +At noon on the 7th, the temperature of the atmosphere had got down +to 49° below zero, being the greatest degree of cold which we had +yet experienced; but the weather being quite calm, we walked on +shore for an hour without inconvenience, the sensation of cold +depending much more on the degree of wind at the time than on the +absolute temperature of the atmosphere as indicated by the +thermometer. In several of the accounts given of those countries +in which an intense degree of natural cold is experienced, some +effects are attributed to it which certainly did not come under +our observation in the course of this winter. The first of these +is the dreadful sensation said to be produced on the lungs, +causing them to feel as if torn asunder when the air is inhaled at +a very low temperature. No such sensation was ever experienced by +us, though in going from the cabins into the open air, and _vice +versâ_, we were constantly in the habit for some months of +undergoing a change of from 80° to 100°, and, in several +instances, 120° of temperature in less than one minute; and, what +is still more extraordinary, not a single inflammatory complaint, +beyond a slight cold, which was cured by common care in a day or +two, occurred during this particular period. The second is, the +vapour with which the air of an inhabited room is charged, +condensing into a shower of snow immediately on the opening of a +door or window communicating with the external atmosphere. This +goes much beyond anything that we had an opportunity of observing. +What happened with us was simply this: on the opening of the doors +at the top and bottom of our hatchway ladders, the vapour was +immediately condensed, by the sudden admission of the cold air, +into a visible form, exactly resembling a very thick smoke, which +settled on all the panels of the doors and bulkheads, and +immediately froze, by which means the latter were covered with a +thick coating of ice, which it was necessary frequently to scrape +off; but we never, to my knowledge, saw the conversion of the +vapour into snow during its fall. + +On the evening of the 15th, the atmosphere being clear and serene, +we were gratified by a sight of the only very brilliant and +diversified display of Aurora Borealis which occurred during the +whole winter. I believe it to be almost impossible for words to +give an idea of the beauty and variety which this magnificent +phenomenon displayed. + +About this time it had been remarked, that a white setter dog had +left the Griper for several nights past at the same time, and had +regularly returned after some hours' absence. As the daylight +increased, we had frequent opportunities of seeing him in company +with a she-wolf, with which he kept up an almost daily intercourse +for several weeks, till at length he returned no more to the +ships; having either lost his way by rambling to too great a +distance, or, what is more likely, perhaps, been destroyed by the +male wolves. Some time after, a large dog of mine, which was also +getting into the habit of occasionally remaining absent for some +time, returned on board a good deal lacerated and covered with +blood, having no doubt maintained a severe encounter with a male +wolf, which we traced to a considerable distance by the tracks on +the snow. An old dog, of the Newfoundland breed, that we had on +board the Hecla, was also in the habit of remaining out with the +wolves for a day or two together; and we frequently watched them +keeping company on the most friendly terms. + +A wolf, which crossed the harbour close to the ships on the 25th, +was observed to be almost entirely white, his body long and +extremely lean, standing higher on his legs than any of the +Esquimaux dogs, but otherwise much resembling them; his tail was +long and bushy, and always hanging between his legs, and he kept +his head very low in running. It is extraordinary that we could +never succeed in killing or catching one of these animals, though +we were for months almost constantly endeavouring to do so. + +On the 1st and 2d of February the weather was rather hazy, so that +the sun could not have been seen had it been above the horizon; +but the 3d was a beautifully clear and calm day. At eight A.M. a +cross, consisting of the usual vertical and horizontal rays, was +seen about the moon. At twenty minutes before apparent noon, the +sun was seen from the Hecla's main-top, at the height of fifty-one +feet above the sea, being the first time that this luminary had +been visible to us since the 11th of November, a period of +eighty-four days, being twelve days less than the time of its +remaining actually beneath the horizon, independently of the +effects of atmospherical refraction. On ascending the main-top, I +found the sun to be plainly visible over the land to the south; +but at noon there was a dusky sort of cloud hanging about the +horizon, which prevented our seeing anything like a defined limb, +so as to measure or estimate its altitude correctly. + +At noon on the 7th we had the first clear view of the sun which we +had yet enjoyed since its reappearance above our horizon, and an +indistinct parhelion, or mock sun, slightly prismatic, was seen on +the eastern side of it, at the distance of 22°. + +There was now sufficient daylight, from eight o'clock till four, +to enable us to perform with great facility any work outside the +ships. I was not sorry to commence upon some of the occupations +more immediately connected with the equipment of the ships for sea +than those to which we had hitherto been obliged to have recourse +as mere employment. We therefore began this day to collect stones +for ballast, of which it was calculated that the Hecla would +require in the spring nearly seventy tons, besides twenty tons of +additional water, to make up for the loss of weight by the +expenditure of provisions and stores. These stones were brought +down on sledges about half a mile to the beach, where they were +broken into a convenient size for stowage, and then weighed in +scales erected on the beach for the purpose; thus affording to the +men a considerable quantity of bodily exercise whenever the +weather would permit them to be so employed. + +The distance at which sounds were heard in the open air, during +the continuance of intense cold, was so great as constantly to +afford matter of surprise to us, notwithstanding the frequency +with which we had occasion to remark it. We have, for instance, +often heard people distinctly conversing, in a common tone of +voice, at the distance of a mile; and to-day I heard a man singing +to himself as he walked along the beach, at even a greater +distance than this. Another circumstance also occurred to-day, +which may perhaps be considered as worthy of notice. Lieutenant +Beechey, and Messrs. Beverly and Fisher, in the course of a walk +which led them to a part of the harbour, about two miles directly +to leeward of the ships, were surprised by suddenly perceiving a +smell of smoke, so strong as even to impede their breathing, till, +by walking on a little farther, they got rid of it. This +circumstance shows to what a distance the smoke from the ships was +carried horizontally, owing to the difficulty with which it rises +at a very low temperature of the atmosphere. + +From four P.M. on the 14th till half past seven on the following +morning, being an interval of fifteen hours and a half, during +which time the weather was clear and nearly calm, a thermometer, +fixed on a pole between the ships and the shore, never rose above +-54°, and was once during that interval, namely, at six in the +morning, as low as -55°. During the lowest temperature above +mentioned, which was the most intense degree of cold marked by the +spirit-thermometer during our stay in Winter Harbour, not the +slightest inconvenience was suffered from exposure to the open air +by a person well clothed, as long as the weather was perfectly +calm; but, in walking against a very light air of wind, a smart +sensation was experienced all over the face, accompanied by a pain +in the middle of the forehead, which soon became rather severe. We +amused ourselves in freezing some mercury during the continuance +of this cold weather, and by beating it out on an anvil previously +reduced to the temperature of the atmosphere; it did not appear to +be very malleable when in this state, usually breaking after two +or three blows from the hammer. + +The increased length of the day, and the cheering presence of the +sun for several hours above the horizon, induced me, notwithstanding +the severity of the weather, to open the dead-lights of my +stern windows, in order to admit the daylight, of which, in our +occupations below, we had entirely been deprived for more than four +months. I had soon, however, occasion to find that this change was +rather premature, and that I had not rightly calculated on the length +of the winter in Melville Island. The Hecla was fitted with double +windows in her stern, the interval between the two sashes being about +two feet; and within these some curtains of baize had been nailed +close in the early part of the winter. On endeavouring now to remove +the curtains, they were found to be so strongly cemented to the +windows by the frozen vapour collected between them, that it was +necessary to cut them off in order to open the windows; and from the +space between the double sashes we removed more than twelve large +buckets full of ice or frozen vapour, which had accumulated in the +same manner. + +About noon on the 16th, a parhelion, faintly prismatic, appeared +on each side of the sun, continuing only for half an hour. +Notwithstanding the low temperature of the external atmosphere, +the officers contrived to act, as usual, the play announced for +this evening; but it must be confessed that it was almost too cold +for either the actors or the audience to enjoy it, especially for +those of the former who undertook to appear in female dresses. + +In the constant hope that each succeeding day would produce some +amendment in the weather, we endeavoured contentedly to put up +with the cold, which, however, continued to be so intense in the +cabin for several weeks after this, that it was impossible to sit +there without being warmly wrapped up; and it was not uncommon for +us, at this period, to reverse the usual order of things, by +throwing off our great coats when we went on deck to warm +ourselves by exercise (the only mode we had of doing so), and +immediately resuming them on coming below. + +With our present temperature, the breath of a person at a little +distance looked exactly like the smoke of a musket just fired, and +that of a party of men employed upon the ice to-day resembled a +thick white cloud. + +At a quarter past ten on Thursday, the 24th, while the men were +running round the decks for exercise, and were on that account +fortunately well clothed, the house on shore was discovered to be +on fire. All the officers and men of both ships instantly ran up +to extinguish it; and having, by great exertion, pulled off the +roof with ropes, and knocked down a part of the sides, so as to +allow snow to be thrown upon the flames, we succeeded in getting +it under after three quarters of an hour, and fortunately before +the fire had reached that end of the house where the two clocks, +together with the transit and other valuable instruments, were +standing in their cases. Having removed these, and covered the +ruins with snow, to prevent any remains of fire from breaking out +again, we returned on board till more temperate weather should +enable us to dig out the rest of the things, among which nothing +of any material consequence was subsequently found to have +suffered injury; and, having mustered the ships' companies to see +that they had put on dry clothes before going to dinner, they were +employed daring the rest of the day in drying those which had been +wet. The appearance which our faces presented at the fire was a +curious one, almost every nose and cheek having become quite white +with frostbites in five minutes after being exposed to the +weather; so that it was deemed necessary for the medical +gentlemen, together with some others appointed to assist them, to +go constantly round while the men were working at the fire, and to +rub with snow the parts affected, in order to restore animation. +Notwithstanding this precaution, which, however, saved many +frostbites, we had an addition of no less than sixteen men to the +sick lists of both ships in consequence of this accident. Among +these there were four or five cases which kept the patients +confined for several weeks; but John Smith, of the artillery, who +was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant +Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fire broke +out, was unfortunate enough to suffer much more severely. In their +anxiety to save the dipping-needle, which was standing close to +the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediately ran +out with it; and Smith, not having time to put on his gloves, had +his fingers in half an hour so benumbed and the animation so +completely suspended, that on his being taken on board by Mr. +Edwards, and having his hands plunged into a basin of cold water, +the surface of the water was immediately frozen by the intense +cold thus suddenly communicated to it; and, notwithstanding the +most humane and unremitting attention paid to them by the medical +gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, to resort to +the amputation of a part of four fingers on one hand and three on +the other. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +Before sunrise on the morning of the 1st of March, Lieutenant +Beechey remarked so much bright red light near the southeastern +horizon, that he constantly thought the sun was rising nearly half +an hour before it actually appeared; there was a column of light +above the sun similar to those which we had before seen. The day +being clear and moderate, a party of men were employed in digging +out the things which were buried in the ruins; the clocks were +removed on board for examination, and preparations were made to +rebuild the house for their reception. + +The 5th of March was the most mild and pleasant day we had +experienced for several weeks, and after divine service had been +performed, almost all the officers and men in both ships were glad +to take advantage of it, by enjoying a long walk upon the +neighbouring hills. The weather had been hazy, with light snow and +some clouds in the morning; but the latter gradually dispersed +after noon, affording us the first day to which we could attach +the idea of spring. + +We continued to enjoy the same temperature and enlivening weather +on the 7th, and now began to flatter ourselves in earnest that the +season had taken that favourable change for which we had so long +been looking with extreme anxiety and impatience. This hope was +much strengthened by a circumstance which occurred to-day, and +which, trifling as it would have appeared in any other situation +than ours, was to us a matter of no small interest and satisfaction. +This was no other than the thawing of a small quantity of snow in +a favourable situation upon the black paintwork of the ship's stern, +which exactly faced the south; being the first time that such an +event had occurred for more than five months. + +The severe weather which, until the last two or three days, we had +experienced, had been the means of keeping in a solid state all +the vapour which had accumulated and frozen upon the ship's sides +on the lower deck. As long as it continued in this state, it did +not prove a source of annoyance, especially as it had no +communication with the bed-places. The late mildness of the +weather, however, having caused a thaw to take place below, it now +became necessary immediately to scrape off the coating of ice, and +it will, perhaps, be scarcely credited, that we this day removed +about one hundred buckets full, each containing from five to six +gallons, being the accumulation which had taken place in an +interval of less than four weeks. It may be observed, that this +vapour must principally have been produced from the men's breath, +and from the steam of their victuals during meals, that from the +coppers being effectually carried on deck by the screen which I +have before mentioned. + +On the 9th it blew a hard gale from the northward and westward, +raising a snowdrift, which made the day almost as inclement as in +the midst of winter. The wind very suddenly ceased in the evening, +and while the atmosphere near the ships was so serene and +undisturbed that the smoke rose quite perpendicularly, we saw the +snowdrift on the hills, at one or two miles' distance, whirled up +into the air, in columns several hundred feet high, and carried +along by the wind, sometimes to the north, and at others in the +opposite direction. The snow thus raised at times resembled +waterspouts, but more frequently appeared like smoke issuing from +the tops of the hills, and as such was at first represented to me. + +It blew a strong breeze from the N.b.W., with a heavy snowdrift, +on the 12th, which continued, with little intermission, till near +noon on the 14th; affording us a convincing proof that the hopes +with which we had flattered ourselves of the speedy return of +spring were not yet to be accomplished. + +On the 16th, there being little wind, the weather was again +pleasant and comfortable, though the thermometer remained very +low. + +This evening the officers performed the farces of the _Citizen_ +and the _Mayor of Garratt_, being the last of our theatrical +amusements for this winter, the season having now arrived when +there would no longer be a want of occupation for the men, and +when it became necessary also to remove a part of the roofing to +admit light to the officers' cabins. Our poets were again set to +work on this occasion, and an appropriate address was spoken on +the closing of the North Georgia Theatre, than which we may, +without vanity, be permitted to say, none had ever done more real +service to the community for whose benefit it was intended. + +On the 23d we found, by digging a hole in the ice, in the middle +of the harbour, where the depth of water was four fathoms and a +quarter, that its thickness was six feet and a half, and the snow +on the surface of it eight inches deep. This may be considered a +fair specimen of the average formation of ice in this neighbourhood +since the middle of the preceding September: and as the freezing +process did not stop for six weeks after this, the produce of the +whole winter may, perhaps, be reasonably taken at seven, or seven +and a half feet. In chopping this ice with an axe the men found it +very hard and brittle, till they arrived within a foot of the lower +surface, where it became soft and spongy. + +Being extremely anxious to get rid, as early as possible, of the +drying of our washed clothes upon the lower deck, I had to-day a +silk handkerchief washed and hung up under the stern, in order to +try the effect of the sun's rays upon it. In four hours it became +thoroughly dry, the thermometer in the shade being from -18° to +-6° at the time. This was the first article that had been dried +without artificial heat for six months, and it was yet another +month before flannel could be dried in the open air. When this is +considered, as well as that, during the same period, the airing of +the bedding, the drying of the bed-places, and the ventilation of +the inhabited parts of the ship, were wholly dependant on the same +means, and this with a very limited supply of fuel, it may, +perhaps be conceived, in some degree, what unremitting attention +was necessary to the preservation of health, under circumstances +so unfavourable and even prejudicial. + +The morning of April 27th being very fine, and the thermometer at ++6°, the ship's company's bedding was hung up to air, between the +fore and main rigging, being the first time we had ventured to +bring it from the lower deck for nearly eight months. While it was +out, the berths and bed-places were fumigated with a composition +of gunpowder mixed with vinegar, and known familiarly by the name +of _devils_; an operation which had been regularly gone through +once a week during the winter. + +For the last three or four days of April the snow on the black +cloth of our housing had begun to thaw a little during a few hours +in the middle of the day, and on the 30th so rapid a change took +place in the temperature of the atmosphere, that the thermometer +stood at the freezing, or, as it may more properly be termed in +this climate, the thawing point, being the first time that such an +event had occurred for nearly eight months, or since the 9th of +the preceding September. This temperature was to our feelings, so +much like that of summer, that I was under the necessity of using +my authority to prevent the men from making such an alteration in +their clothing as might have been attended with very dangerous +consequences. The thermometer had ranged from -32° to +32° in the +course of twenty days. There was, at this period, more snow upon +the ground than at any other time of the year, the average depth +on the lower parts of the land being four or five inches, but much +less upon the hills; while in the ravines a very large quantity +had been collected. The snow at this time became so soft, from the +influence of the sun upon it, as to make walking very laborious +and unpleasant. + +The fine and temperate weather with which the month of April had +concluded, induced Captain Sabine to set the clocks going, in +order to commence his observations for the pendulum, and he now +took up his quarters entirely on shore for that purpose. On the +first of May, however, it blew a strong gale from the northward, +which made it impossible to keep up the desired temperature in the +house: and so heavy was the snowdrift, that in a few hours the +house was nearly covered, and we were obliged to communicate with +Captain Sabine and his attendants through a small window, from +which the snow was, with much labour, cleared away, the door being +quite inaccessible. We saw the sun at midnight for the first time +this season. + +The gale and snowdrift continued on the following day, when we had +literally to dig out the sentries, who attended the fire at the +house, in order to have them relieved. + +On the 6th, the thermometer rose no higher than +8½° during the +day; but, as the wind was moderate, and it was high time to +endeavour to get the ships once more fairly afloat, we commenced +the operation of cutting the ice about them. In order to prevent +the men suffering from wet and cold feet, a pair of strong boots +and boot-stockings were on this occasion served to each. + +On the 15th, two or three coveys of ptarmigan were seen, after +which they became more and more numerous, and a brace or two were +almost daily procured for the sick, for whose use they were +exclusively reserved. As it was of the utmost importance, under +our present circumstances, that every ounce of game which we might +thus procure should be served in lieu of other meat, I now renewed +the orders formerly given, that every animal killed was to be +considered as public property; and, as such, to be regularly +issued like any other kind of provision, without the slightest +distinction between the messes of the officers and those of the +ships' companies. + +Some of our men having, in the course of their shooting +excursions, been exposed for several hours to the glare of the sun +and snow, returned at night much affected with that painful +inflammation in the eyes occasioned by the reflection of intense +light from the snow, aided by the warmth of the sun, and called in +America "snow blindness." This complaint, of which the sensation +exactly resembles that produced by large particles of sand or dust +in the eyes, is cured by some tribes of American Indians by +holding them over the steam of warm water; but we found a cooling +wash, made by a small quantity of acetate of lead mixed with cold +water, more efficacious in relieving the irritation, which was +always done in three or four days, even in the most severe cases, +provided the eyes were carefully guarded from the light. As a +preventive of this complaint, a piece of black crape was given to +each man, to be worn as a kind of short veil attached to the hat, +which we found to be very serviceable. A still more convenient +mode, adopted by some of the officers, was found equally +efficacious; this consisted in taking the glasses out of a pair of +spectacles, and substituting black or green crape, the glass +having been found to heat the eyes and increase the irritation. + +On the 17th we completed the operation of cutting the ice round +the Hecla, which was performed in the following manner. We began +by digging a large hole under the stern, being the same as that in +which the tide-pole was placed, in order to enter the saw, which +occupied us nearly two days, only a small number of men being able +to work at it. In the mean time, all the snow and rubbish was +cleared away from the ship's side, leaving only the solid ice to +work upon; and a trench, two feet wide, was cut the whole length +of the starboard side, from the stem to the rudder, keeping within +an inch or two of the bends; and taking care here and there to +leave a dike, to prevent the water which might ooze into one part +from filling up the others in which the men were working. In this +manner was the trench cut with axes to the depth of about four +feet and a half, leaving only eighteen inches for the saws to cut, +except in those places where the dikes remained. The saw, being +then entered in the hole under the stern, was worked in the usual +manner, being suspended by a triangle made of three spars: one cut +being made on the outer part of the trench, and a second within an +inch or two of the bends, in order to avoid injuring the planks. A +small portion of ice being broken off now and then by bars, +handspikes, and ice-chisels, floated, to the surface, and was +hooked out by piecemeal. This operation was a cold and tedious one +and required nine days to complete it. When the workmen had this +morning completed the trench within ten or twelve feet of the +stern, the ship suddenly disengaged herself from the ice, to which +she had before been firmly adhering on the larboard side, and rose +in the water about ten inches abaft, and nearly eighteen inches +forward, with a considerable surge. This circumstance it was not +difficult to explain. In the course of the winter, the strong +eddy-winds about the ships had formed round them a drift of snow +seven or eight feet deep in some parts, and perhaps weighing a +hundred tons; by which the ice, and the ships with it, were +carried down much below the natural level at which they would +otherwise have floated. In the mean time the ships had become +considerably lighter, from expenditure of several months' +provisions: so that, on both these accounts, they had naturally a +tendency to rise in the water as soon as they were set at liberty. + +A party of hands were occupied in breaking and weighing the stones +for ballast, while others were getting out the sails and boats; and +our carpenters, armourers, coopers, and sailmakers having each +their respective employments, our little colony now presented the +most busy and bustling scene that can be imagined. It was found +necessary to caulk every part of the upper works, as well as all +the decks, the seams having been so much opened by the frost as to +require at least one, and in many parts two threads of oakum, +though the ship had scarcely ever laboured at all since she was +last caulked. I also at this time laid out a small garden, planting +it with radishes, onions, mustard, and cress; and a similar attempt +was made by Lieutenant Liddon; but, notwithstanding every care and +attention which could be paid to it, this experiment may be said to +have wholly failed, the radishes not exceeding an inch in length by +the latter end of July, and the other seeds being altogether thrown +away. I may remark, however, that some common ships' peas, which +were sown by our people for their amusement, were found to thrive +so well, that, had I been sooner aware of it, a great quantity of +the leaves at least of this vegetable might have been grown, which, +when boiled and eaten as greens, would have been no small treat to +persons deprived of fresh vegetable substance for more than ten +months. + +Having considered that an examination of the extent and +productions of the island might be conducive to the improvement of +the geography and natural history of these regions, and the good +state of health enjoyed by the crews permitting a certain number +of men to be spared from each ship during their equipment for sea, +I now determined to undertake a journey into the interior for this +purpose, accompanied by a certain number of officers and men who +volunteered their services on the occasion; and the 1st of June +was fixed for our departure. + +Early on the morning of the 24th Mr. Allison reported that he had +felt a few drops of rain fall upon his face, an event which we had +scarcely dared to anticipate so soon, but which was hailed with +much satisfaction, as nothing appears to be so effectual as rain +in producing the dissolution of the ice. The clouds had a watery +appearance throughout the day, and at half past eight in the +evening we were agreeably surprised by a smart shower of rain, +which was shortly after succeeded by several others. + +Early on the morning of the 29th the wind increased to a fresh +gale from the northward and westward, which continued during the +day, with a heavy fall of snow and a tremendous drift, that +prevented our seeing to the distance of more than twenty yards +around the ships. The following day being fine, I took my +travelling party to the top of the northeast hill, in order to try +the cart which had been constructed for carrying the tents and +baggage, and which appeared to answer very well. The view from +this hill was not such as to offer much encouragement to our hopes +of future advancement to the westward. The sea still presented the +same unbroken and continuous surface of solid and impenetrable +ice, and this ice could not be less than from six to seven feet in +thickness, as we knew it to be about the ships. When to this +circumstance was added the consideration that scarcely the +slightest symptoms of thawing had yet appeared, and that in three +weeks from this period the sun would again begin to decline to the +southward, it must be confessed that the most sanguine and +enthusiastic among us had some reason to be staggered in the +expectations they had formed of the complete accomplishment of our +enterprise. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +The weather being favourable on the morning of the 1st of June, I +made such arrangements as were necessary previous to my departure +on our intended journey. I directed Lieutenants Liddon and Beechey +to proceed with all possible despatch in the equipment of the +ships for sea, having them ready to sail by the end of June, in +order that we might be able to take advantage of any favourable +alteration in the state of the ice at an earlier period than +present appearances allowed us to anticipate. + +The party selected to accompany me, out of the numerous volunteers +on this occasion, consisted of Captain Sabine, Messrs. Fisher, +Nias, Reid, and Sergeant McMahon, of the marines, Sergeant Martin, +of the artillery, and three seamen and two marines belonging to +both ships, making a total of twelve, including myself. We were +supplied with provisions for three weeks, according to the daily +proportion of one pound of biscuit, two thirds of a pound of +preserved meat, one ounce of salep powder, one ounce of sugar, and +half a pint of spirits for each man. Two tents, of the kind called +in the army horsemen's tents, were made of blankets, with two +boarding-pikes fixed across at each end, and a ridge-rope along +the top, which, with stones laid upon the foot of the blankets, +made a very comfortable and portable shelter. These tents, with +the whole of the provisions, together with a _conjuror_ or cooking +apparatus, and a small quantity of wood for fuel, amounting on the +whole to eight hundred pounds, were carried upon a strong but +light cart constructed for the purpose: this method having been +decided on as the most convenient for the country in which we were +about to travel. + +Each officer and man was also furnished with a blanket made into a +bag, with a drawing-string at each end, a pair of spare shoes, and +stockings, a flannel shirt, and a cap to sleep in. The clothing +and blankets were carried on our backs in knapsacks, those of the +officers weighing from seventeen to twenty-four pounds each, and +one between every two men weighing twenty-four pounds, to be +carried for half a day alternately. + +At five P.M. we left the ships, accompanied by a large party of +officers and men from each, who were desirous of relieving us from +the weight of our knapsacks for an hour or two; and, having been +cheered by the ships on our departure, we went round the head of +the harbour, and ascended the northeast hill, our companions left +us at eight P.M., and we proceeded across a level plain almost +entirely covered with snow, which, however, was so hard as to make +the travelling very good; and the cart was dragged along without +difficulty. At eleven P.M. we came to three remarkable round +hills; composed entirely of sand and masses of sandstone, and +halted to dine close to the northward of them. Those parts of the +land which were clear of snow appeared to be more productive than +those in the immediate neighbourhood of Winter Harbour, the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, and poppy being more abundant, and the moss +more luxuriant; we, could not, however, collect a sufficient +quantity of the slender wood of the willow, in a dry state, for +the purpose of dissolving snow for water, and were therefore +obliged to use a part of the fuel which we had provided for that +purpose. The thermometer stood at 31° at midnight. + +Having set off soon after midnight, at the distance of half a mile +in a N.b.E. direction we came to a piece of frozen water, half a +mile in length and two hundred yards wide, situated on the south +side of the range of hills which bound the prospect from Winter +Harbour. The ice on the surface of this lake or pond was in some +parts nearly dissolved, and in all too soft to allow us to cross +it. We halted at half past six A.M., and pitched the tents on the +hardest ground we could find, but it became quite swampy in the +course of the day. We killed seven ptarmigan, and saw two plovers +and two deer, being the first we had met with this season, with a +fawn so small as to leave no doubt of its having been dropped +since the arrival of the female upon the island. They were so wild +as not to allow us to approach them within a quarter of a mile. +The day was fine, with light and variable airs; the thermometer +stood at 34° in the shade at seven A.M., at which time it was +unfortunately broken. + +We again set forward at two A.M. on the 3d, crossing one or two +ravines, running E.N.E. and W.S.W., in which there was a large +collection of snow, but as yet no appearance of water in the +bottom of them. Captain Sabine and myself, being considerably +ahead of the rest of the party, had sat down to wait for them, +when a fine reindeer came trotting up, and played round us for a +quarter of an hour, within thirty yards. We had no gun, nor do I +know that we should have killed it if we had, there being already +as much weight upon the cart as the men could well drag, and +having no fuel to spare for cooking; besides, we felt it would +have been but an ill return for the confidence which he seemed +willing to place in us. On hearing our people talking on the +opposite side of the ravine, the deer immediately crossed over, +and went directly up to them, with very little caution; and they +being less scrupulous than we were, one or two shots were +immediately fired at him, but without effect; on which he again +crossed over to where we were sitting, approaching us nearer than +before. As soon as we rose up and walked on, he accompanied us +like a dog, sometimes trotting ahead of us, and then returning +within forty or fifty yards. When we halted, at six A.M., to make +the usual observations, he remained by us till the rest of the +party came up, and then trotted off. The reindeer is by no means a +graceful animal; its high shoulders, and an awkward stoop in its +head, giving it rather a deformed appearance. Our new acquaintance +had no horns; he was of a brownish colour, with a black saddle, a +broad black rim round the eyes, and very white about the tail. We +observed that, whenever he was about to set off, he made a sort of +playful gambol, by rearing on his hind legs. + +At two o'clock on the morning of the 4th we continued our journey +to the northward, over the same snowy and level plain as before, +than which it is impossible to conceive anything more dreary and +uninteresting. It frequently happened that, for an hour together, +not a single spot of uncovered ground could be seen. The breeze +freshened up to a gale from the S.S.E. as we proceeded, and the +men, as if determined not to forget that they were sailors, set a +large blanket upon the cart as a sail, which, upon the present +level ground, was found to be of material assistance. The snow was +deep and rather soft, which made the travelling heavy; and as the +wind produced a good deal of snowdrift, most of the bare patches +of ground became covered up, so that, when our time for halting +had arrived, not a piece of ground could be seen on which to pitch +the tents. Captain Sabine and myself went forward to look out for +a spot, and at length were fortunate to meet with one, on which +there was just room for our little encampment. It was with some +difficulty, by building a wall with stones and our knapsacks, that +we prevented its being covered with snow before the party came up, +which they did at half past seven A.M., having travelled ten miles +in a N.W.b.N. direction. + +By the time we had secured the tents the wind blew hard, with a +continued fall, as well as drift of snow, so that we could not but +consider ourselves fortunate in having met with a spot of ground +in good time. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, we +found the tents afford us very comfortable and sufficient shelter, +the cart being tilted up to windward of them, so as to break up +some measure the violence of the wind; and, when wrapped up, or, +rather, enclosed in our blanket bags, we were generally quite warm +enough to enjoy the most sound and refreshing repose. + +It continued to blow and snow till seven P.M., when the wind +having veered to the S.W., and become more moderate, we struck the +tents; and having now placed the men's knapsacks on the cart, to +enable them to drag with greater facility, we proceeded on our +journey to the northward. We passed a narrow but deep ravine lying +across our course, in some parts of which the snow reached nearly +to a level with the banks, forming a kind of bridges or causeways, +on one of which we crossed without difficulty. The men had hoisted +one sail upon the cart at first setting off; but the wind being +now, as they expressed it, "on the larboard quarter," a second +blanket was rigged as a mainsail, to their great amusement as well +as relief. + +After crossing a second ravine, on the north side of which the +ground rose considerably, we entered upon another snowy plain, +where there was nothing to be seen in any direction but snow and +sky. To make it the more dreary, a thick fog came on as the night +advanced; and as this prevented our taking any mark more than +fifty or a hundred yards ahead, we had to place the compass, by +which we were now entirely travelling, upon the ground every five +minutes; and as it traversed with great sluggishness, we made a +very crooked and uncertain course. For more than two hours we did +not pass a single spot of uncovered ground, nor even a stone +projecting above the snow. + +The fog continued too thick to allow us to move till six A.M., at +which time we resumed our journey. There was a broad and distant +haze-bow of very white and dazzling light directly opposite the +sun. The weather being still too foggy to see more than a quarter +of a mile ahead, it was with considerable difficulty that we could +proceed on a tolerably straight course. To effect this, it was +necessary to determine the point on which we were walking by the +bearing of the sun, which was still visible, and the apparent +time, and then to take a mark ahead by which our course was to be +directed. From the thickness of the weather, however, it was +necessary to repeat this operation every five or ten minutes, +which, together with the uniform whiteness and intense glare of +the snow, became so extremely painful to the eyes, that Mr. Fisher +and myself, who went ahead as guides, soon became affected with +snow blindness, and the headmost man at the cart, whose business +it was constantly to watch our motions, began to suffer in a +similar manner from the same cause. + +It may, perhaps, be conceived, then, under these circumstances, +how pleasing was the relief afforded by our seeing, at eight A.M., +a stripe of black or uncovered land ahead, which proved to be the +bank of a ravine fifty or sixty feet deep and three hundred yards +wide, on the north side of which we pitched the tents, having made +good only one mile and a half, the snow being so soft and deep as +to make it difficult to drag the cart through it. + +The latitude observed here was 75° 22' 43", and the longitude, by +the chronometer, 111° 14' 26"; in which situation a cylinder of +tin, containing an account of our visit, was deposited under a +pile of stones eight feet high and seven feet broad at the base. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze from the S.S.E. on the 6th, +with a sharp frost, making it very cold in the tents, which we +therefore struck at four A.M., and at the distance of half a mile +came to the summit of a hill overlooking what appeared to be a +frozen sea before us. We then descended the hill, with the +intention of pushing forward to determine whether the white and +level space before us was the sea or not. We had not proceeded +far, however, when the clouds began to gather heavily in the +southeast, and shortly after snow and sleet began to fall. Being +unwilling, therefore, to allow the men's clothes to be wet when +there was no absolute occasion for it, we halted on a piece of dry +ground, and, having built a wall six feet high to shelter us from +the weather, pitched the tents very comfortably under the lee of +it till the weather should allow us to proceed. + +At six P.M., the wind having gradually got round to the N.N.E., +and the weather being more clear and cold, I set out, accompanied +by Messrs. Nias and Reid, and a quartermaster of the Griper, with +the intention of examining the situation and appearance of the sea +to the northward; leaving the rest of the party, several of whom +were suffering from snow-blindness, though otherwise in good +health, to remain quietly in the tents till our return. Having +travelled N.N.W. a mile and a half through much deep snow, of +which a good deal had fallen during the day, we came to some ice +thrown up on the beach, having cracks in it parallel to the line +of the shore, which we immediately recognised to be of the same +kind as those to which we had so long been accustomed in Winter +Harbour, and which are occasioned by the rise and fall of the +tide. We turned to the westward along the beach, and at the +distance of two miles ascended a point of land in that direction, +from whence we had a commanding view of the objects around us. As +soon as we had gained the summit of this point, which is about +eighty feet above the sea, we had an additional confirmation that +it was the sea which we had now reached, the ice being thrown upon +the beach under the point, and as far as we could see to the +westward, in large, high, irregular masses, exactly similar to +those which had so often afforded us anchorage and shelter upon +the southern shores of the island. Being desirous, however, of +leaving nothing uncertain respecting it, we walked out a few +hundred yards upon the ice, and began with a boarding-pike and our +knives, which were all the tools we had, to dig a hole in it, in +order to taste the water beneath. After nearly two hours' labour, +we could only get down as many feet, the ice being very hard, +brittle, and transparent; more so, as we imagined, than salt-water +ice usually is, which made us the more desirous to get through it. +I therefore determined to return to our people, and to remove our +encampment hither, for the purpose of completing the hole through +the ice with all our hands, while we were obtaining the necessary +observations on shore. + +On our return to the tents, we dined, and rested till one o'clock +on the morning of the 7th, when we set out for the point, at which +we did not arrive till half past four, the snow being here so deep +as to make the cart an improper, and, indeed, almost impracticable +mode of conveying our baggage. It froze all day in the shade, with +a fresh breeze from the north; and, though the tents were pitched +under the lee of the grounded ice upon the beach, we found it +extremely cold; all the pools of water were frozen hard during the +night, and, some of our canteens burst from the same cause. The +people were allowed to rest after their supper till four P.M., and +were then set to work upon the ice and in building a monument on +the top of the Point. + +We dined at midnight; and at half past one A.M. on the 8th struck +the tents, and drew the cart to the higher part of the Point, +where we occupied two hours in completing our monument, which is +of a conical form, twelve feet broad at the base, and as many in +height. Within it were deposited a tin cylinder, containing an +account of the party who had left it, and one or two silver and +copper English coins. This monument may be seen at several miles' +distance from the sea or land side; and, as great pains were taken +by Mr. Fisher in constructing it, it may probably last for a long +period of years. + +Having now satisfactorily determined the extent of Melville Island +to the northward upon this meridian, which corresponds very nearly +with that of Winter Harbour, and finished all the requisite +observations, I proposed pursuing our journey towards the Blue +Hills, which were still in sight at the distance of several +leagues to the westward; and, having advanced to the southwest as +long as circumstances should appear to make it interesting or +practicable, to return by a circuitous route to the ships. We +travelled in a W.½S. direction, in order to keep on a ridge along +the coast, which afforded the only tolerable walking, the snow +being very deep on the lower parts of the land. We halted at half +past seven A.M., on a fine sandy ground, which gave us the +softest, as well as the driest bed which we had yet experienced on +our journey, and which was situated close to a little hillock of +earth and moss, so full of the burrows of hares as to resemble a +warren. We tried to smoke them out by burning port-fire, but none +appeared; and it is remarkable, that though we constantly met with +the dung of these animals, especially in this place, where it +occurred very abundantly, we never saw one of them during the +journey. As soon as we had halted, we found that Mr. Reid's +knapsack had dropped off the cart; he had therefore to go back to +look for it, and did not return till eleven o'clock, being so much +affected by snow-blindness as to be scarcely able to see his way +to the tents. This circumstance was, sufficient to show the +advantage, and even the necessity, of travelling entirely by night +under these circumstances, the intense glare of light from the +snow during the day inevitably producing this painful irritation +in the eyes. + +At a quarter past five P.M. we resumed our journey to the +southwest, and soon after crossed a snowy plain a mile and a +quarter in breadth, extending to the sea to the north, and as far +as the eye could reach to the south. Having travelled S.W.b.W. +seven miles, we halted, at half an hour before midnight, at the +distance of three or four miles from the sea, the weather being +very clear and fine, with a moderate breeze from the S.S.W. + +Having rested after our dinner till half past two A.M., we set out +again to the southwest, making, however, a very crooked course on +account of the irregularity of the ground. In the first quarter of +a mile we passed the first running stream which we had seen this +season, and this was but a small one, from six to twelve inches +deep. The ground, as well as the pools of water, was frozen hard +during the last night, but thawed during the day, which made +travelling worse and worse, as the sun acquired power. We passed a +few horns of deer, killed three ptarmigans, and saw a pair of +ducks. The plumage of the cock grouse was still quite white, +except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were of a fine +glossy black; but in every hen which we had lately killed, a very +perceptible alteration was apparent, even from day to day, and +their plumage had now nearly assumed that speckled colour which, +from its resemblance to that of the ground, is so admirably +adapted to preserve them from being seen at the season of their +incubation. We found it difficult, in general, to get near the +hens, which were very wild; but the male birds were at all times +stupidly tame. + +At half past two A.M. on the 10th we struck the tents, and +proceeded to the S.W., the wind having got round to the S.E., with +continued snow. At the distance of two miles we entered upon a +level plain three miles wide, which, with the exception of a patch +here and there, was entirely covered with snow. The uncovered +parts of this plain were so wet as to be almost impassable for the +cart; and we were now as desirous of keeping on the snow as, at +the beginning of our journey from Winter Harbour, we had been +anxious to avoid it. + +The weather continued hazy, with snow occasionally, but our +clothes dried in the sun towards noon; soon after which, however, +the snow became more thick and constant, so that we could scarcely +see a hundred yards around the tents. We waited for some time in +hope of the weather clearing, and then, at a quarter past five, +continued our journey; as we were under the necessity, however, of +directing our course entirely by compass, which is here a very +uncertain and deceitful guide, we made but a slow and tedious +progress. The wind freshened up to a gale from the S.E. soon after +we had set out, which made it impossible for us any longer to +pursue our journey, and we began to look out for a spot on which +the tents could be pitched, so as to afford us a dry flooring, if +not shelter, during the gale. Having crossed three ravines within +a mile and a quarter, we at length came to a very deep one, which +was nearly perpendicular on each side, with the snow overhanging +in some parts, so as to make it dangerous to go near the edge of +the bank. We were at length fortunate in finding a narrow, sloping +ridge of snow, leading down to the bottom of the ravine; and +having descended this with some difficulty, we found such good +shelter as to determine me to halt here for the night, which now +became more and more inclement. + +The wind gradually veered to the N.N.W. in the morning, and the +weather having cleared up about half past four, we struck the +tents and set off to the southward. The south bank of the ravine +being nearly as steep, and much higher than the other, it was with +considerable labour and difficulty that we were able to get the +cart up it, in which, however, we succeeded by six o'clock, when +we found that we were travelling on much higher ground than +before, overlooking that which we had left the preceding evening. +Having proceeded four miles over a level country, with much snow +upon it, we suddenly and unexpectedly came in sight of the sea or +a lake, at the distance of two or three miles before us, just +appearing between two high and steep hills, which terminated a +deep and broad ravine. We hastened forward to the point of the +nearest hill, from whence the prospect was extremely grand and +picturesque. We were looking down nearly perpendicular from a +height of eight or nine hundred feet, on an extensive plain of +ice, of which, to the westward, we could perceive no termination +for a distance of five or six leagues, the prospect to the +eastward being obstructed by other hills. A thick mist or vapour +was at times carried rapidly along by the wind over this ice, to +which it was entirely confined, occasionally covering the top of +the island with a dense cloud. The impression made upon our minds +at the time was, that it was a frozen lake on which we were now +looking; but this conjecture, as it afterward appeared, proved +erroneous. The ravine at which we had arrived discharges its +waters into a snug cove two or three miles deep, at the head of +which we now proposed resting, if a place could be found at which +our descent into the ravine could be effected. The sides of the +ravine, which were very steep, were covered with innumerable +blocks, of sandstone of every size and shape, over which alone any +road could be found to the cove below. It was necessary, +therefore, to make the attempt, but it was impossible for the best +built carriage to travel long on such a road; and when we had half +descended the bank, which led into the ravine on its north side, +the axle-tree broke short in the middle. The baggage was therefore +taken off and carried down to the bottom, where the tents were +pitched at eleven A.M., the wheels being left where the cart broke +down, as sound as at first. + +The latitude observed here was 75° 12' 50", the longitude, by +chronometer, 111° 50' 05", and the variation of the magnetic +needle 125° 12' 22" easterly. The wind being fresh from the +W.N.W., and the weather being cold and raw, we built a wall to the +windward of the tents, as a substitute for the usual shelter +afforded by the cart; after supper, the people, being a good deal +fatigued, were allowed to rest till near midnight, and then +employed in arranging the baggage so as to carry it on our +shoulders for the rest of the journey. The wood which composed the +light framework of the cart being now disposable as fuel, we were +glad to make use of it in cooking a few ptarmigan, which afforded +us another sumptuous meal. It is not perhaps, easy for those who +have never experienced it, to imagine how great a luxury anything +warm in this way becomes, after living entirely upon cold +provisions for some time in this rigid climate. This change was +occasionally the more pleasant to us, from the circumstance of the +preserved meats, on which we principally lived, being generally at +this time hard frozen when taken out of the canisters. + +Having finished our arrangements with respect to the baggage, +which made it necessary that each of the men should carry between +sixty and seventy pounds, and the officers from forty to fifty, we +struck the tents at half past two on the morning of the 12th, and +proceeded along the eastern shore of the cove, towards a point +which forms the entrance on that side. + +We arrived at the point at five o'clock, and as we could now +perceive that the lake or gulf extended a considerable distance to +the eastward as well as to the westward, and that it would require +a long time to go round in the former direction, I determined to +cross it on the ice; and as the distance to the opposite shore +seemed too great for one journey, the snow being soft upon the +ice, first to visit the island, and, having rested there, to +proceed to the southward. Having walked five miles in a S.S.W. +direction, we landed at seven A.M., near the southeast part of the +island. The wind was fresh from the westward, and the tents were +pitched near the beach, under the lee of the high part of the +island. + +We rested till six P.M., and then set off across the ice for a +point to the E.S.E. The snow had now become so soft after the heat +of the day, that, loaded as we were, we often sunk nearly up to +the knees, which made travelling very laborious, and we were, +therefore, not sorry to get on shore by half past eight, having +walked, by our account, three miles and a half. + +The spot on which we encamped appeared so favourable for obtaining +specimens of the different animals which frequent this island, +that I determined to remain here one day for the purpose of +sporting and examining its natural productions. + +The sportsmen went out early in the morning, and soon after met +with a musk-ox feeding on a spot of luxuriant pasture-ground, +covered with the dung of these animals as well as of deer. They +fired at him from a considerable distance without wounding him, +and he set off at a very quick pace over the hills. The musk-ox +has the appearance of a very ill-proportioned little animal, its +hair being so long as to make its feet appear only two or three +inches in length; they seem, indeed, to be treading upon it at +every step, and the individual in question actually did so in some +instances, as the hair was found in several of the foot-tracks. +When disturbed and hunted, they frequently tore up the ground with +their horns, and turned round occasionally to look at their +pursuers, but they never attempted to attack any of them. Our +gentlemen also met with a herd of twelve deer, three only of which +had horns, and they were much the largest of the herd, and +constantly drove the others away when they attempted to stop. The +birds seen by our people were many brent-geese and ptarmigans, +several golden plovers, one or two "boatswains," and abundance of +snow-buntings. One or two mice were caught; like several others we +had seen, these were turning brown about the belly and head, and +the back was of a dark gray colour. In every part of the island +over which we travelled, the holes and tracks of these little +animals were occasionally seen; one of them, which Sergeant Martin +ran after, finding no hole near and that he could not escape, set +himself against a stone, as if endeavouring to defend himself, and +bit the sergeant's finger when he took hold of him. + +On a point of land at the distance of three quarters of a mile to +the W.b.S. of the tents, and within a hundred yards of the sea, +the remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered; they consisted +of rude circles, about six feet in diameter, constructed +irregularly of stones of all sizes and shapes, and raised to the +height of two feet from the ground: they were paved with large +slabs of white schistose sandstone, which is here abundant; the +moss had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the growth of +three or four years. In each of the huts, on one side, was a small +separate compartment forming a recess, projecting outward, which +had probably been their store-room; and at a few feet from one of +the huts was a smaller circle of stones, which had composed the +fireplace, the mark of fire being still perceptible upon them. + +The day was fine and clear, with a moderate wind from the westward +till four P.M., when it died away, and was shortly after succeeded +by a breeze from the southward, with a fall of snow. We now +travelled due south, with the intention of getting sight of the +Table Hills, and returning by that route to the ships, as there +appeared to be nothing more within our reach of sufficient +interest to detain us any longer from them. At eight P.M., finding +that the people's clothes were becoming wet through by the sleet +which fell, we halted and pitched the tents. + +Early on the morning of the 14th the wind veered to the westward, +and the weather became gradually more clear; we therefore continued +our journey to the southward, and came in sight of the Table Hills +bearing S.E. of us, and at eight A.M. pitched the tents on some dry +ground on the bank of a ravine. We moved on towards the Table Hills +at five P.M., and crossed several ravines without much water in +them, running generally to the northeastward. We halted between the +Table Hills at ten o'clock, having travelled eight miles over very +swampy ground, and with the snow up to our knees in some of the +hollows. + +As soon as the observations were completed, we set off for Winter +Harbour, and having passed over much rich and wet ground, +abounding with sorrel, which now began to put forth its leaves +with more vigour, arrived on board at seven P.M., having been met, +and welcomed most heartily, by almost every officer and man +belonging to the ships; and it was no small satisfaction to me to +hear it remarked, that the whole of our travelling party appeared +in more robust health than when we left them. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +I had the happiness to find, on my return, that the officers and +men in both ships continued to enjoy the same good health as +before, with the exception of Scott, who was still the only man in +the Hecla's sick-list, and whose complaint seemed such as to +baffle every attempt that had been made to produce an amendment. A +constant disposition to fainting and a languid sort of despondency +had been, for some time past, the only symptoms which had induced +Mr. Edwards to continue the antiscorbutic treatment; and this it +was sometimes absolutely necessary to discontinue for a day or two +together, on account of the weak state of his bowels. During my +absence he had been much worse than before, notwithstanding the +greatest care and attention paid to him; but he was now once more +better. He had lived almost entirely on the ptarmigan and ducks, +of which a sufficient quantity had been procured to serve the sick +and convalescent in both ships abundantly, and none had at this +time been issued to any officer or man in the expedition. + +The equipment of the ships had gone on satisfactorily during my +absence, the Griper being nearly ready for sea, the Hecla not +quite so forward, on account of the heavy work with the ballast, +of which sixty-five tons had been brought on board, to supply the +deficiency of weight in her holds. The survey of the provisions, +fuel, and other stores was completed, and the quantity and +condition of them, with the exception of the lemon-juice and +vinegar before mentioned, were found to be satisfactory. With +respect to vermin, I may here mention, that not a mouse, or rat, +or maggot of any kind ever appeared on board, to my knowledge, +during this voyage. + +A very perceptible change had taken place in the ice of the +harbour on its upper surface, it being covered with innumerable +pools of water, chiefly brackish, except close in-shore, where the +tides had lifted the ice considerably above the level of the sea. + +Having observed that the sorrel was now so far advanced in foliage +as to be easily gathered in sufficient quantity for eating, I gave +orders that two afternoons in each week should be occupied by all +hands in collecting the leaves of this plant; each man being +required to bring in, for the present, one ounce, to be served in +lieu of lemon-juice, pickles, and dried herbs, which had been +hitherto issued. The growth of the sorrel was from this time so +quick, and the quantity of it so great on every part of the ground +about the harbour, that we shortly after sent the men out every +afternoon for an hour or two; in which time, besides the advantage +of a healthy walk, they could, without difficulty, pick nearly a +pound each of this valuable antiscorbutic, of which they were all +extremely fond. Of the good effects produced upon our health by +the unlimited use of fresh vegetable substances, thus bountifully +supplied by the hand of Nature, even where least to be expected, +little doubt can be entertained, as it is well known to be a +never-failing specific for scorbutic affections, to which all +persons deprived of it for a length of time are probably more or +less predisposed. + +By the 20th of June, the land in the immediate neighbourhood of +the ships, and especially in low and sheltered situations, was +much covered with the handsome purple flower of the _saxifraga +oppositifolia_, which was at this time in great perfection, and +gave something like cheerfulness and animation to a scene hitherto +indescribably dreary in its appearance. + +The suddenness with which the changes take place during the short +season which may be called summer in this climate, must appear +very striking when it is remembered that, for a part of the first +week in June, we were under the necessity of thawing artificially +the snow which we made use of for water during the early part of +our journey to the northward; that, during the second week, the +ground was in most parts so wet and swampy that we could with +difficulty travel; and that, had we not returned before the end of +the third week, we should probably have been prevented doing so +for some time, by the impossibility of crossing the ravines +without great danger of being carried away by the torrents, an +accident that happened to our hunting parties on one or two +occasions in endeavouring to return with their game to the ships. + +On the 22d, at four P.M., a thermometer, in the shade on board the +Hecla, stood at 51°, being the highest temperature we had yet +registered this season. + +On the 24th we had frequent showers of snow, which occur in this +climate more or less at all times of the year; at this season, +however, when the earth is warm, it seldom or never lies on the +ground for a whole day together. + +Lieutenant Beechey, on his return from a hunting excursion at +midnight on the 26th, reported that the ice along shore in that +direction appeared in a more forward state of dissolution than +near Winter Harbour, there being almost water enough in some +places to allow a boat to pass, with several large cracks in the +ice extending from the land some distance to seaward. The deep had +now become much more wild near the tents, and it was therefore +necessary to shift the ground a little. Lieutenant Beechey +succeeded in killing one of these animals, by lying down quietly, +and imitating the voice of a fawn, when the deer immediately came +up to him within gunshot. The horns of the deer killed at this +season, as Mr. Fisher remarks, were "covered with a soft skin +having a downy pile or hair upon it; the horns themselves were +soft, and at the tips flexible and easily broken." The foxes, of +which they saw several, "had a black spot or patch on each side of +the hind-quarters or hams." + +On the 29th, one of the men, in returning on board from the daily +occupation of gathering sorrel, found in a hole upon the ice a +small fish, which appeared to be of the whiting species; and, on +going to examine the place where it was picked up, Mr. Edwards and +myself found two others exactly similar. As there was as yet no +communication between the sea and the upper surface of the ice +sufficiently large to admit these fish, it became a matter of +question in what manner they had got into the situation in which +we found them. It appeared most likely that they were frozen on +the surface of the water at the beginning of winter, when the +frost first commenced, and perhaps, therefore, had been floating +there dead. We remarked that, whenever any hard substance is laid +upon the ice in small quantities, it soon makes a deep hole for +itself, by the heat it absorbs and radiates, by which the ice +around it is melted. There were at this time upon the ice +innumerable holes of this kind, some forming small, and others +large pools of water; and in every one of these, without +exception, some extraneous substance, such as seaweed, sand, and +not unfrequently a number of small putrid shrimps were found. In +one of these holes the fish alluded to were found. It was curious +to see how directly contrary was the effect produced upon the ice +by a quantity of straw which was put out upon it in the early part +of May, and which, by preventing the access of warmth, had now +become raised above the general surface more than two feet; +affording a strong practical example of the principle on which +straw is made use of in ice-houses, and, what was at that time of +more importance to us, a proof, how much the upper surface of the +ice had been insensibly wasted by dissolution. + +Lieutenant Hoppner returned on the evening of the 29th from his +hunting excursion to the southwest, bringing with him some game, +and, what was to us much more acceptable, the welcome information +that the ice had been observed in motion in the offing on the 22d. +This circumstance was first observed by Messrs. Skene and Fife, +who were of Lieutenant Hoppner's party, and who were awakened by a +loud grinding noise, which, as they had soon the satisfaction to +find, was occasioned by the heavy field-ice setting rapidly to the +eastward, at the distance of five miles from the land, and +apparently at the rate of a mile an hour. The wind was at this +time moderate, but on the preceding day it had blown a fresh +northerly gale. + +For some days past Scott had been gradually growing worse, and on +the evening of the 29th he was so far exhausted that Mr. Edwards +did not expect him to survive through the night. At two A.M. on +the 30th I was informed by that gentleman that Scott was dying; +and, before I could get my clothes on, he had breathed his last, +without any apparent pain. + +On Sunday, the 2d of July, after divine service had been +performed, the body of the deceased was committed to the earth, on +a level piece of ground about a hundred yards from the beach; with +every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and the circumstances +of our situation would permit. The ensigns and pendants were +lowered half-mast during the procession, and the remains of our +unfortunate shipmate were attended to the grave by every officer +and man in both ships. A neat tombstone was afterward placed at +the head of the grave by Mr. Fisher, who carved upon it the name +of the deceased, with the other usual information. + +The dissolution of the ice of the harbour went on so rapidly in +the early part of July, that we were greatly surprised, on the +6th, in finding that, in several of the pools of water on its +upper surface, holes were washed quite through to the sea beneath. +On examining several of these, we found that the average thickness +of the ice in the upper part of the harbour, where the ships were +lying, did not exceed two feet, which was much less than we had +any idea of. Towards the mouth of the harbour, however, where the +water was deeper, no such holes made their appearance for some +days after this. It must here be remarked, that in all cases we +found the ice to be first thawed and broken up in the shoalest +water, in consequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with +which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the sea, +absorbed and radiated the heat of the sun's rays; and as it is in +such situations that water generally freezes the first, this +circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the provision of +nature for maintaining such a balance in the quantity of ice +annually formed and dissolved, as shall prevent any undue or +extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions +of the earth. + +On unhanging the rudders, and hauling them up on the ice for +examination, we found them a good deal shaken and grazed by the +blows they had received during the time the ships were beset at +the entrance of Davis's Strait. We found, also, that the +rudder-cases in both ships had been fitted too small, occasioning +considerable difficulty in getting the rudders down when working, +a circumstance by no means disadvantageous (perhaps, indeed, +rather the contrary) on ordinary service at sea, but which should +be carefully avoided in ships intended for the navigation among +ice, as it is frequently necessary to unship the rudder at a short +notice, in order to preserve it from injury, as our future +experience was soon to teach us. This fault was, however, soon +remedied, and the rudders again hung in readiness for sea. + +On the 14th a boat passed, for the first time, between the ships +and the shore, in consequence of the junction of a number of the +pools and holes in the ice; and on the following day the same kind +of communication was practicable between the ships. It now became +necessary, therefore, to provide against the possibility of the +ships being forced on shore by the total disruption of the ice +between them and the beach, and the pressure of that without, by +letting go a bower-anchor underfoot, which was accordingly done as +soon as there was a hole in the ice under the bows of each +sufficiently large to allow the anchors to pass through. We had +now been quite ready for sea for some days; and a regular and +anxious look-out was kept from the crow's-nest for any alteration +in the state of the ice which might favour our departure from +Winter Harbour, in which it now became more than probable that we +were destined to be detained thus inactively for a part of each +month in the whole year, as we had readied it in the latter part +of September, and were likely to be prevented leaving it till +after the commencement of August. + +From six A.M. till six P.M. on the 17th, the thermometer stood +generally from 55° to 60°; the latter temperature being the +highest which appears in the Hecla's Meteorological Journal during +this summer. It will readily be conceived how pleasant such a +temperature must have been to our feelings after the severe winter +which immediately preceded it. The month of July is, indeed, the +only one which can be called at all comfortable in the climate of +Melville Island. + +On the 20th, there being a strong breeze from the N.N.E., with fog +and rain, all favourable to the dispersion of the ice, that part +of it which was immediately around the Hecla, and from which she +had been artificially detached so long before, at length separated +into pieces and floated away, carrying with it the collection of +ashes and other rubbish which had been accumulating for the last +ten months: so that the ship was now once more fairly riding at +anchor, but with the ice still occupying the whole of the centre +of the harbour, and within a few yards of her bows: the Griper had +been set free in a similar manner a few days before. But it was +only in that part of the harbour where the ships were lying that +the ice had yet separated in this manner at so great a distance +from the shore; a circumstance probably occasioned by the greater +radiation of heat from the ships, and from the materials of +various kinds which we had occasion to deposite upon the ice +during the time of our equipment. + +Lieutenant Liddon accompanied me in a boat down the west shore of +the harbour to the southern point of the entrance, in order to +sound along the edge of the ice, where we found from seven to +fifteen feet water; the ice about the entrance appeared still very +solid and compact, and not a single hole was at this time noticed +through any of the pools upon its surface except one, which was +made by a seal, and which discovered the thickness of the ice to +be there between two and three feet. + +There was a fresh breeze from the northeastward, with fine clear +weather, on the 22d, which made the Hecla swing round into twenty +feet water astern; and the ice, being now moveable in the harbour, +came home towards the shore with this wind, but not so much as to +put any considerable strain on the cable of either ship; and the +holding-ground being excellent, there was nothing to apprehend for +their security. + +A fresh gale, which blew from the northward on the morning of the +23d, caused a great alteration in the appearance of the ice near +the ships, but none whatever in that in the offing or at the mouth +of the harbour, except that the shores were there more encumbered +than before, owing to the quantity of pieces which were separated +and driven down from the northward, so that our small boat could +not succeed in getting along the shore. + +On the 24th the sails were bent, in readiness for starting at a +moment's notice, though it must be confessed that the motive for +doing so was to make some show of moving rather than any +expectation which I dared to entertain of soon escaping from our +long and tedious confinement; for it was impossible to conceal +from the men the painful fact that, in eight or nine weeks from +this period, the navigable season must unavoidably come to a +conclusion. + +I went away in a boat early on the morning of the 25th, in order +to sound the harbour in those parts where the ice would admit the +boat, with a view to take advantage of the first favourable change +which might present itself. The wind having come round to the +southward in the afternoon, caused the separation of a large +portion of ice on the northern side of that which now occupied the +harbour, and the detached pieces drifting down towards us, +rendered it necessary to be on our guard, lest the ships should be +forced from their anchorage. On this account, as well as from an +anxious and impatient desire to make a move, however trifling, +from a spot in which we had now unwillingly, but unavoidably, +passed nearly ten months, and of which we had long been heartily +tired, I directed lines to be run out for the purpose of warping +the ships along the ice in the centre of the harbour, and at half +past two P.M. the anchors were weighed. As soon as a strain was +put upon the lines, however, we found that the ice to which they +were attached came home upon us, instead of the ships being drawn +out to the southward; and we were therefore obliged to have +recourse to the kedge-anchors, which we could scarcely find room +to drop on account of the closeness of the ice. Having warped a +little way out from the shore, into five fathoms and a half, it +was found impossible to proceed any farther without a change of +wind, and the anchors were therefore dropped till such a change +should take place. In the course of the evening all the loose ice +drifted past us to the northward, loading that shore of the +harbour with innumerable fragments of it, and leaving a +considerable space of clear water along shore to the southward. + +On the morning of the 26th it was nearly calm, with continued rain +and thick weather; and there being now a space of clear water for +nearly three quarters of a mile to the southward of us, we took +advantage of a breeze which sprung up from the northward to weigh, +at nine A.M., and run down as far as the ice would permit, and +then dropped our anchors in the best berths we could select, close +to the edge of it, with the intention of advancing step by step, +as it continued to separate by piecemeal. The ice across the +entrance of the harbour as far as this spot, and the whole of that +in the offing, of which we had here a commanding view from the +Hecla's crow's-nest, was still quite continuous and unbroken, with +the same appearance of solidity as it had during the middle of +winter, except that the pools of water were numerous upon its +surface. + +The wind being from the S.S.W. during the night of the 30th, +served to close the lane of water which had appeared in the offing +the preceding day, which we considered a favourable circumstance, +as showing that the external mass of ice was in motion. In the +course of the day, the wind shifting to the W.N.W., we once more +discovered a small opening between the old and young floes, and at +eleven P.M., the whole body of the ice in the harbour was +perceived to be moving slowly out to the southeastward, breaking +away, for the first time, at the points which form the entrance of +the harbour. This sudden and unexpected change rendering it +probable that we should at length be released, I sent to Captain +Sabine, who had been desirous of continuing his observations on +the pendulum to the last moment, to request that he would have the +clocks ready for embarcation at an early hour in the morning. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113° 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +The wind still blowing fresh from the northward and westward, the +ice continued to drift out slowly from the harbour, till, at eight +A.M., August 1st, it had left the whole space between the ships +and Cape Hearne completely clear, and at eleven o'clock there +appeared to be water round the hummocks of ice which lie aground +off that point. In the mean time, our boats were employed in +embarking the clocks, tents, and observatory, while I sounded the +entrance of the harbour in order to complete the survey, which no +opportunity had offered of doing before this time. At one P.M., +having got everything on board, and the ice appearing to be still +leaving the shore, we weighed, and ran out of Winter Harbour, in +which we had actually, as had been predicted, passed ten whole +months, and a part of the two remaining ones, September and +August. + +In running along shore towards Cape Hearne, generally at the +distance of half a mile from the land, we had from ten to sixteen +fathoms' water, and rounded the hummocks off the point in six and +a half fathoms by three P.M. As we opened the point, it was +pleasing to see that the coast to the westward of it was more +clear of ice (excepting the loose pieces which lay scattered about +in every direction, but which would not very materially have +impeded the navigation with a fair wind) than it had been when we +first arrived off it, a month later in the foregoing year; the +main ice having been blown off by the late westerly and +northwesterly winds to the distance of four or five miles from the +shore, which, from all we have seen on this part of the coast, +appears to be its utmost limit. The navigable channel, with a +beating wind between the ice and the land, was here from one to +two, or two miles and a half in width; and this seemed, from the +masthead, to continue as far as the eye could reach along shore to +the westward. + +We found the wind much more westerly after we rounded the point, +which made our progress slow and tedious; the more so, as we had +every minute to luff for one piece of ice and to bear up for +another, by which much ground was unavoidably lost. + +After a very few tacks, we had the mortification to perceive +that the Griper sailed and worked much worse than before, +notwithstanding every endeavour which Lieutenant Liddon had been +anxiously making, during her re-equipment, to improve those +qualities in which she had been found deficient. She missed stays +several times in the course of the evening, with smooth water +and a fine working breeze, and by midnight the Hecla had gained +eight miles to windward of her, which obliged me to heave to, +notwithstanding the increased width of the navigable channel, the +weather having become hazy, so as to endanger our parting company. + +Soon after noon on the 2d, a breeze sprung up from the S.S.W., +which, being rather upon the shore, made it likely that the ice +would soon begin to close it; we therefore began to look out for a +situation where the ships might be secured in-shore, behind some +of the heavy grounded ice which had so often before afforded us +shelter under similar circumstances. At one o'clock we perceived +that a heavy floe had already closed completely in with the land, +at a point a little to the westward of us, preventing all hope of +farther progress for the present in that direction. A boat was +therefore sent to examine the ice in-shore, and a favourable place +having been found for our purpose, the ships were hauled in and +secured there, the Griper's bow resting on the beach, in order to +allow the Hecla to lie in security without her. This place was so +completely sheltered from the access of the main body of the ice, +that I began to think seriously of taking advantage of this +situation to remove the Griper's crew on board the Hecla, in order +to prosecute the voyage in the latter vessel singly, and had +consulted the officers upon the subject. The circumstances, +however, which subsequently occurred rendering such a measure +inexpedient, because no longer necessary to the accomplishment of +the object in view, by which alone it could be justified, I was +induced to give it up, adopting the best means in our power to +remedy the evil in question. + +Shortly after our anchoring the Griper's people heard the growling +of a bear among the ice near them, but the animal did not appear; +and this was the only instance of our meeting with a bear during +our stay at Melville Island, except that which followed one of our +men to the ships soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour. Both +crews were sent on shore to pick sorrel, which was here not less +abundant than at our old quarters, but it was now almost too old +to be palatable, having nearly lost its acidity and juice. + +At one A.M. on the 4th, the loose ice was observed to be drifting +in upon us, the wind having veered to the eastward of north; and +soon after a floe, of not less than five miles in length and a +mile and a half across, was found to be approaching the shore at a +quick rate. The ships were immediately hauled as near the shore as +possible, and preparation made for unshipping the rudders, if +necessary. The floe was brought up, however, by the masses of ice +aground outside of us, with which it successively came in contact, +and the ships remained in perfect security; the floe, as usual +after the first violence is over, moved off again to a little +distance from the shore. + +At noon the heavy floe at the point near us began to quit the +land, and at half past one P.M., there being a narrow passage +between them, the breadth of which the breeze was constantly +increasing, we cast off and stretched to the westward. The channel +which opened to us as we proceeded varied in its general breadth +from one to two miles; in some places it was not more than half a +mile. The wind was variable and squally, but we made great +progress, along the land to the S.W.b.W., and the Griper, by +keeping up tolerably with the Hecla, in some measure redeemed her +character with us. Having arrived off Cape Providence at eleven +P.M., the wind became light and baffling, so that we had just got +far enough to see that there was a free and open channel beyond +the westernmost point visible of Melville Island, when our +progress was almost entirely stopped for want of a breeze to +enable us to take advantage of it. The anxiety which such a +detention occasions in a sea where, without any apparent cause, +the ice frequently closes the shore in the most sudden manner, can +perhaps only be conceived by those who have experienced it. We +remarked, in sailing near the ice this evening, while the wind was +blowing a fresh breeze off the land, and therefore directly +towards the ice, that it remained constantly calm within three or +four hundred yards of the latter; this effect I do not remember to +have observed before upon the windward side of any collection of +ice, though it invariably happens, in a remarkable degree, to +leeward of it. I may here mention, as a striking proof of the +accuracy with which astronomical bearings of objects may be taken +for marine surveys, that the relative bearing of Capes Providence +and Hay, as obtained this evening when the two headlands were +opening, differed only one minute from that entered in the +surveying-book, and found in the same manner the preceding year. + +At one P.M. on the 5th, the weather continuing quite calm, and +being desirous of examining the ice in-shore, that we might be +ready for the floes closing upon us, I left the ship, accompanied +by Captain Sabine and Mr. Edwards, and landed near one of the +numerous deep and broad ravines with which the whole of this part +of the island is indented. We were ascending the hill, which was +found by trigonometrical measurement to be eight hundred and +forty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and on which we found +no mineral production but sandstone and clay iron-stone, when a +breeze sprung up from the eastward, bringing up the Griper, which +had been left several miles astern. We only stopped, therefore, to +obtain observations for the longitude and the variation of the +magnetic needle; the former of which was 112° 53' 32", and the +latter 110° 56' 11" easterly, and then immediately returned on +board and made all sail to the westward. After running for two +hours without obstruction, we were once more mortified in +perceiving that the ice, in very extensive and unusually heavy +floes, closed in with the land a little to the westward of Cape +Hay, and our channel of clear water between the ice and the land +gradually diminished in breadth, till at length it became +necessary to take in the studding sails, and to haul to the wind +to look about us. I immediately left the ship, and went in a boat +to examine the grounded ice off a small point of land, such as +always occurs on this coast at the outlet of each ravine. I found +that this point offered the only possible shelter which could be +obtained in case of the ice coming in; and I therefore determined +to take the Hecla in-shore immediately, and to pick out the best +berth which circumstances would admit. As I was returning on board +with this intention, I found that the ice was already rapidly +approaching the shore; no time was to be lost, therefore, in +getting the Hecla to her intended station, which was effected by +half past eight P.M., being in nine to seven fathoms water, at the +distance of twenty yards from the beach, which was lined all round +the point with very heavy masses of ice that had been forced by +some tremendous pressure into the ground. Our situation was a +dangerous one, having no shelter from ice coming from the +westward, the whole of which, being distant from us less than half +a mile, was composed of floes infinitely more heavy than any we +had elsewhere met with during the voyage. The Griper was three or +four miles astern of us at the time when the ice began to close, +and I therefore directed Lieutenant Liddon, by signal, to secure +his ship in the best manner he could, without attempting to join +the Hecla; he accordingly made her fast at eleven P.M., near a +point like that at which we were lying, and two or three miles to +the eastward. + +On the whole of this steep coast, wherever we approached the +shore, we found a thick stratum of blue and solid ice, firmly +imbedded in the beach, at the depth of from six to ten feet under +the surface of the water. This ice has probably been the lower +part of heavy masses forced aground by the pressure of the floes +from without, and still adhering to the viscous mud of which the +beach is composed, after the upper part has, in course of time, +dissolved. From the tops of the hills in this part of Melville +Island a continuous line of this submarine ice could be distinctly +traced for miles along the coast. + +In running along the shore this evening we had noticed near the +sea what at a distance had every appearance of a high wall +artificially built, which was the resort of numerous birds. +Captain Sabine being desirous to examine it, as well as to procure +some specimens of the birds, set out, as soon as we anchored, for +that purpose. The wall proved to be composed of sandstone in +horizontal strata, from twenty to thirty feet in height, which had +been left standing, so as to exhibit its present artificial +appearance, by the decomposition of the rock and earth about it. +Large flocks of glaucous gulls had chosen this as a secure retreat +from the foxes, and every other enemy but man; and when our people +first went into the ravine in which it stands, they were so fierce +in defence of their young that it was scarcely safe to approach +them till a few shots had been fired. + +On the morning of the 7th a black whale came up close to the +Hecla, being the first we had seen since the 22d of August the +preceding year, about the longitude of 91¾° W.; it therefore +acquired among us the distinctive appellation of _the_ whale. +Since leaving Winter Harbour we had also, on two or three +occasions, seen a solitary seal. The wind continued fresh from the +east and E.N.E. in the morning, and the loose ice came close in +upon us, but the main body remained stationary at the distance of +nearly half a mile. + +In the afternoon a man from each mess was sent on shore to pick +sorrel, which was here remarkably fine and large, as well as more +acid than any we had lately met with. The shelter from the +northerly winds afforded by the high land on this part of the +coast, together with its southern aspect, renders the vegetation +here immediately next the sea much more luxuriant than in most +parts of Melville Island which we visited, and a considerable +addition was made to our collection of plants. + +The easterly breeze died away in the course of the day, and at +three P.M. was succeeded by a light air from the opposite quarter; +and as this freshened up a little, the loose ice began to drift +into our bight, and that on the eastern side of the point to drive +off. It became expedient, therefore, immediately to shift the ship +round the point, where she was made fast in four fathoms abaft and +seventeen feet forward, close alongside the usual ledge of +submarine ice, which touched her about seven feet under water, and +which, having few of the heavy masses aground upon it, would +probably have allowed her to be pushed over it had a heavy +pressure occurred from without. It was the more necessary to moor +the ship in some such situation, as we found from six to seven +fathoms water by dropping the hand-lead down close to her bow and +quarter on the outer side. + +Several heavy pieces of floes drove close past us, not less than +ten or fifteen feet in thickness, but they were fortunately +stopped by a point of land without coming in upon us. At eleven +o'clock, however, a mass of this kind, being about half an acre in +extent, drove in, and gave the ship a considerable "nip" between +it and the land ice, and then grazed past her to the westward. I +now directed the rudder to be unhung, and the ship to be swung +with her head to the eastward, so that the bow, being the +strongest part, might receive the first and heaviest pressure. + +The ice did not disturb us again till five A.M. on the 8th, when +another floe-piece came in and gave the ship a heavy rub, and then +went past, after which it continued slack about us for several +hours. Everything was so quiet at nine o'clock as to induce me to +venture up the hill abreast of us, in order to have a view of the +newly-discovered land to the southwest, which, indeed, I had seen +indistinctly and much refracted from the Hecla's deck in the +morning. This land, which extends beyond the 117th degree of west +longitude, and is the most western yet discovered in the Polar Sea +to the northward of the American Continent, was honoured with the +name of BANKS'S LAND, out of respect to the late venerable and +worthy president of the Royal Society. + +On the morning of the 9th a musk-ox came down to graze on the +beach near the ships. A party was despatched in pursuit, and, +having hemmed him in under the hill, which was too steep for him +to ascend, succeeded in killing him. When first brought on board, +the inside of this animal, which was a male, smelled very strong +of musk, of which the whole of the meat also tasted more or less, +and especially the heart. It furnished us with four hundred and +twenty-one pounds of beef, which was served to the crews as usual, +in lieu of their salt provisions, and was very much relished by +us, notwithstanding the peculiarity of its flavour.[*] The meat +was remarkably fat, and, as it hung up in quarters, looked as fine +as any beef in an English market. A small seal, killed by the +Griper's people, was also eaten by them; and it was generally +allowed to be very tender and palatable, though not very sightly +in its appearance, being of a disagreeable red colour. + +[Footnote: Some pieces of this meat which we brought to England +were found to have acquired a much more disagreeable flavour than +when first killed, though they had not undergone putrefaction in +the slightest degree.] + +At ten P.M. the whole body of ice, which was then a quarter of a +mile from us, was found to be drifting in upon the land, and the +ship was warped back a little way to the westward, towards that +part of the shore which was most favourable for allowing her to be +forced up on the beach. At eleven o'clock, the piece of a floe +which came near us in the afternoon, and which had since drifted +back a few hundred yards to the eastward, received the pressure of +the whole body of ice as it came in. It split across in various +directions with a considerable crash, and presently after we saw a +part, several hundred tons in weight, raised slowly and +majestically, as if by the application of a screw, and deposited +on another part of the floe from which it had broken, presenting +towards us the surface that had split, which was of a fine blue +colour, and very solid and transparent. The violence with which +the ice was coming in being thus broken, it remained quiet during +the night, which was calm, with a heavy fall of snow. + +The mass of ice which had been lifted up the preceding day being +drifted close to us on the morning of the 10th, I sent Lieutenant +Beechey to measure its thickness, which proved to be forty-two +feet; and as it was a piece of a regular floe, this measurement +may serve to give some idea of the general thickness of the ice in +this neighbourhood. + +I began to consider whether it would not be advisable, whenever +the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few miles of the +westing we had already made, and to run along the margin of the +floes, in order to endeavour to find an opening leading to the +southward, by taking advantage of which we might be enabled to +prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was +the more inclined to make this attempt, from its having long +become evident to us that the navigation of this part of the Polar +Sea is only to be performed by watching the occasional openings +between the ice and the shore; and that, therefore, a continuity +of land is essential, if not absolutely necessary, for this +purpose. Such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail +us, must necessarily be furnished by the northern coast of +America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found; and, as a large +portion of our short season had already been occupied in fruitless +attempts to penetrate farther to the westward in our present +parallel, under circumstances of more than ordinary risk to the +ships, I determined, whenever the ice should open sufficiently, to +put into execution the plan I had proposed. + +At seven P.M. we shipped the rudder and crossed the top-gallant +yards in readiness for moving; and then I ascended the hill and +walked a mile to the westward, along the brow of it, that not a +moment might be lost after the ice to the westward should give us +the slightest hope of making any progress by getting under way. +Although the holes had certainly increased in size and extent, +there was still not sufficient room even for one of our boats to +work to windward; and the impossibility of the ships' doing so was +rendered more apparent, on account of the current which, as I have +before had occasion to remark, is always produced in these seas +soon after the springing up of a breeze, and which was now running +to the eastward at the rate of at least one mile per hour. It was +evident that any attempt to get the ships to the westward must, +under circumstances so unfavourable, be attended with the certain +consequence of their being drifted the contrary way; and nothing +could therefore be done but still to watch, which we did most +anxiously, every alteration in the state of the ice. The wind, +however, decreasing as the night came on, served to diminish the +hopes with which we had flattered ourselves of being speedily +extricated from our present confined and dangerous situation. + +The weather was foggy for some hours in the morning of the 11th, +but cleared up in the afternoon as the sun acquired power. The +wind increased to a fresh gale from the eastward at nine P.M., +being the second time that it had done so while we had been lying +at this station; a circumstance which we were the more inclined to +notice, as the easterly winds had hitherto been more faint and +less frequent than those from the westward. In this respect, +therefore, we considered ourselves unfortunate, as experience had +already shown us that none but a westerly wind ever produced upon +this coast, or, indeed, on the southern coast of any of the North +Georgian Islands, the desired effect of clearing the shores of +ice. + +The gale continued strong during the night, and the ice quite +stationary. Not a pool of clear water could be seen in any +direction, except just under the lee of our point, where there was +a space large enough to contain half a dozen sail of ships, till +about noon, when the whole closed in upon us without any apparent +cause, except that the wind blew in irregular puffs about that +time, and at one P.M. it was alongside. The ship was placed in the +most advantageous manner for taking the beach, or, rather, the +shelf of submarine ice, and the rudder again unshipped and hung +across the stem. The ice which came in contact with the ship's +side consisted of very heavy loose pieces, drawing twelve or +fourteen feet water, which, however, we considered as good +"fenders," compared with the enormous fields which covered the sea +just without them. Everything remained quiet for the rest of the +day, without producing any pressure of consequence; the wind came +round to N.b.E. at night, but without moving the ice off the land. + +Early in the morning of the 13th I received by Mr. Griffiths a +message from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at eleven +o'clock on the preceding night, the ice had been setting slowly to +the westward, and had, at the same time, closed in upon the land +where the Griper was lying, by which means she was forced against +the submarine ice, and her stern lifted two feet out of the water. +This pressure, Lieutenant Liddon remarked, had given her a twist, +which made her crack a good deal, but apparently without suffering +any material injury in her hull, though the ice was still pressing +upon her when Mr. Griffiths came away. She had at first heeled +inward, but, on being lifted higher, fell over towards the deep +water. Under these circumstances Lieutenant Liddon had very +properly landed all the journals and other documents of +importance, and made every arrangement in his power for saving the +provisions and stores in case of shipwreck, which he had now every +reason to anticipate. Convinced as I was that no human art or +power could, in our present situation, prevent such a catastrophe +whenever the pressure of the ice became sufficient, I was more +than ever satisfied with the determination to which I had +previously come, of keeping the ships apart during the continuance +of these untoward circumstances, in order to increase the chance +of saving one of them from accidents of this nature. In the mean +time the ice remained so close about the Hecla, that the slightest +pressure producing in it a motion towards the shore must have +placed us in a situation similar to that of the Griper; and our +attention was therefore diverted to the more important object of +providing, by every means in our power, for the security of the +larger ship, as being the principal depôt of provisions and other +resources. + +At five P.M. Lieutenant Liddon acquainted me by letter that the +Griper had at length righted, the ice having slackened a little +around her, and that all the damage she appeared to have sustained +was in her rudder, which was badly split, and would require some +hours' labour to repair it whenever the ice should allow him to +get it on shore. + +Soon after midnight the ice pressed closer in upon the Hecla than +before, giving her a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, +but without appearing to strain her in the slightest degree. By +four P.M. the pressure had gradually decreased, and the ship had +only three or four inches heel; in an hour after she had perfectly +righted, and the ice remained quiet for the rest of the day. + +Every moment's additional detention now served to confirm me in +the opinion I had formed as to the expediency of trying, at all +risks, to penetrate to the southward whenever the ice would allow +us to move at all, rather than persevere any longer in the +attempts we had been lately making, with so little success, to +push on directly to the westward. I therefore gave Lieutenant +Liddon an order to run back a certain distance to the eastward +whenever he could do so, without waiting for the Hecla, should +that ship be still detained; and to look out for any opening in +the ice to the southward which might seem likely to favour the +object I had in view, waiting for me to join him should any such +opening occur. + +The breeze died away in the course of the night, just as the ice +was beginning to separate and to drift away from the shore; and, +being succeeded by a wind off the land, which is here very +unusual, Lieutenant Liddon was enabled to sail upon the Griper at +two A.M. on the 15th, in execution of the orders I had given him. +As I soon perceived, however, that she made little or no way, the +wind drawing more to the eastward on that part of the coast, and +as the clear water was increasing along the shore to the westward +much farther than we had yet seen it, I made the signal of recall +to the Griper, with the intention of making another attempt, which +the present favourable appearances seemed to justify, to push +forward without delay in the desired direction. At five A.M., +therefore, as soon as the snow had cleared away sufficiently to +allow the signal to be distinguished, we cast off and ran along +shore, the wind having by this time veered to the E.b.N., and +blowing in strong puffs out of the ravines as we passed them. We +sailed along, generally at the distance of a hundred or a hundred +and fifty yards from the beach, our soundings being from ten to +seventeen fathoms; and, after running a mile and a half in a +N.W.b.W. direction, once more found the ice offering an +impenetrable obstacle to our progress westward, at a small +projecting point of land just beyond us. We therefore hauled the +ship into a berth which we were at this moment fortunate in +finding abreast of us, and where we were enabled to place the +Hecla within a number of heavy masses of grounded ice, such as do +not often occur on this steep coast, which, compared with the +situation we had lately left, appeared a perfect harbour. In the +mean time, the wind had failed our consort when she was a mile and +a half short of this place; and Lieutenant Liddon, after +endeavouring in vain to warp up to us, was obliged, by the ice +suddenly closing upon him, to place her in-shore, in the first +situation he could find, which proved to be in very deep water, as +well as otherwise so insecure as not to admit a hope of saving the +ship should the ice continue to press upon her. + +Mr. Fisher found very good sport in our new station, having +returned in the evening, after a few hours' excursion, with nine +hares; the birds had, of late, almost entirely deserted us, a +flock or two of ptarmigan and snow-buntings, a few glaucous gulls, +a raven, and an owl, being all that had been met with for several +days. + +A fog, which had prevailed during the night, cleared away in the +morning of the 16th, and a very fine day succeeded, with a +moderate breeze from the westward. In order to have a clear and +distinct view of the state of the ice, after twenty-four hours' +wind from that quarter, Captain Sabine, Mr. Edwards, and myself, +walked about two miles to the westward, along the high part of the +land next the sea, from whence it appeared but too evident that no +passage in this direction was yet to be expected. The ice to the +west and southwest was as solid and compact, to all appearance, as +so much land; to which, indeed, the surface of so many fields, +from the kind of hill and dale I have before endeavoured to +describe, bore no imperfect resemblance. I have no doubt that, had +it been our object to circumnavigate Melville Island, or, on the +other hand, had the coast continued its westerly direction instead +of turning to the northward, we should still have contrived to +proceed a little occasionally, as opportunities offered, +notwithstanding the increased obstruction which here presented +itself; but, as neither of these was the case, there seemed little +or nothing to hope for from any farther attempts to prosecute the +main object of the voyage in this place. I determined, therefore, +no longer to delay the execution of my former intentions, and to +make trial, if possible, of a more southern latitude, in which I +might follow up the success that had hitherto attended our +exertions. + +The station at which the ships were now lying, and which is the +westernmost point to which the navigation of the Polar Sea to the +northward of the American Continent has yet been carried, is in +latitude 74° 26' 25", and longitude, by chronometer, 113° 46' +43.5". + +The place where the Hecla was now secured, being the only one of +the kind which could be found, was a little harbour, formed, as +usual, by the grounded ice, some of which was fixed to the bottom +in ten to twelve fathoms. One side of the entrance to this harbour +consisted of masses of floes, very regular in their shape, placed +quite horizontally, and broken off so exactly perpendicular as to +resemble a handsome, well-built wharf. On the opposite side, +however, the masses to which we looked for security were +themselves rather terrific objects, as they leaned over so much +towards the ship as to give the appearance of their being in the +act of falling upon her deck; and as a very trifling concussion +often produces the fall of much heavier masses of ice, when in +appearance very firmly fixed to the ground, I gave orders that no +guns should be fired near the ship during her continuance in this +situation. The Griper was of necessity made fast near the beach in +rather an exposed situation, and her rudder unshipped, in +readiness for the ice coming in; it remained quiet, however, +though quite close, during the day, the weather being calm and +fine. + +It was again nearly calm on the 19th, and the weather was foggy for +some hours in the morning. In the evening, having walked to Cape +Providence to see if there was any possibility of moving the ships, +I found the ice so close that a boat could not have passed beyond +the Cape; but a light air drifting the ice slowly to the eastward +at this time, gave me some hopes of soon being enabled to make our +escape from this tedious as well as vexatious confinement. At a +quarter past eight it was high water by the shore; about this time +the ice ceased driving to the eastward, and shortly after returned +in the opposite direction. + +At half past eleven P.M., some heavy pieces of the grounded ice, +to which our bow-hawser was secured, fell off into the water, +snapping the rope in two without injuring the ship. As, however, +every alteration of this kind must materially change the centre of +gravity of the whole mass, which already appeared in a tottering +state, I thought it prudent to move the Hecla out of her harbour +to the place where the Griper was lying, considering that a ship +might easily be forced on shore by the ice without suffering any +serious damage; but that one of those enormous masses falling upon +her deck must inevitably crush or sink her. + +The "young ice" had increased to the thickness of an inch and a +half on the morning of the 23d, and some snow which had fallen in +the night served to cement the whole more firmly together. On a +breeze springing up from the westward, however, it soon began to +acquire a motion to leeward, and at half an hour before noon had +slackened about the ships sufficiently to allow us to warp them +out, which was accordingly done, and all sail made upon them. The +wind having freshened up from the W.N.W., the ships' heads were +got the right way, and, by great attention to the sails, kept so +till they had got abreast of Cape Providence, after which they +were no longer manageable, the ice being more close than before. I +have before remarked that the loose ice in this neighbourhood was +heavy in proportion to the floes from which it had been broken; +and the impossibility of sailing among such ice, most of which +drew more water than the Hecla, and could not, therefore, be +turned by her weight, was this day rendered very apparent, the +ships having received by far the heaviest shocks which they +experienced during the voyage. They continued, however, to drive +till they were about three miles to the eastward of Cape +Providence, where the low land commences; when, finding that there +was not any appearance of open water to the eastward or southward, +and that we were now incurring the risk of being beset at sea, +without a chance of making any farther progress, we hauled in for +the largest piece of grounded ice we could see upon the beach, +which we reached at six P.M., having performed six miles of the +most difficult navigation I have ever known among ice. The Hecla +was made fast in from eighteen to twenty feet water close to the +beach, and the Griper in four fathoms, about half a mile to the +westward of us. + +The situation in which the ships were now placed, when viewed in +combination with the shortness of the remaining part of the +season, and the period to which our resources of every kind could +be extended, was such as to require a more than ordinary +consideration, in order to determine upon the measures most proper +to be pursued for the advancement of the public service, and the +security of the ships and people committed to my charge. Judging +from the close of the summer of 1819, it was reasonable to +consider the 7th of September as the limit beyond which the +navigation of this part of the Polar Sea could not be performed, +with tolerable safety to the ships or with any hope of farther +success. Impressed, however, with a strong sense of the efforts +which it became us to make in the prosecution of our enterprise, I +was induced to extend this limit to the 14th of September, before +which day, on the preceding year, the winter might fairly be said +to have set in. But even with this extension our prospect was not +very encouraging: the direct distance to Icy Cape was between +eight and nine hundred miles, while that which we had advanced +towards it this season fell short of sixty miles. + +By Mr. Hooper's report of the remains of provisions, it appeared +that, at the present reduced allowance (namely, two thirds of the +established proportion of the navy), they would last until the +30th of November, 1821; and that an immediate reduction, to half +allowance, which must, however, tend materially to impair the +health and vigour of the officers and men, would only extend our +resources to the 30th of April, 1822; it therefore became a matter +of evident and imperious necessity, that the ships should be +cleared from the ice before the close of the season of 1821, so as +to reach some station where supplies might be obtained by the end +of that, or early in the following year. + +By the same report, it appeared that the fuel with which we were +furnished could only be made to extend to a period of two years +and seven months, or to the end of November, 1821; and this only +by resorting to the unhealthy measure of both crews living on +board the Hecla during six of the ensuing winter months. + +The ships might be considered almost as effective as when the +expedition left England; the wear and tear having been trifling, +and the quantity of stores remaining on board being amply +sufficient, in all probability, for a much longer period than the +provisions and fuel. The health of the officers and men continued +also as good, or nearly so, as at the commencement of the voyage. +Considering, however, the serious loss we had sustained in the +lemon-juice, the only effectual antiscorbutic on which we could +depend during at least nine months of the year in these regions, +as well as the effects likely to result from crowding nearly one +hundred persons into the accommodation intended only for +fifty-eight, whereby the difficulty of keeping the inhabited parts +of the ship in a dry and wholesome state would have been so much +increased, there certainly seemed some reason to apprehend that a +second winter would not leave us in possession of the same +excellent health which we now happily enjoyed, while it is +possible that the difficulty and danger of either proceeding or +returning might have been increased. + +A herd of musk-oxen being seen at a little distance from the +ships, a party was despatched in pursuit; and Messrs. Fisher and +Bushnan were fortunate in killing a fine bull, which separated +from the rest of the herd, being too unwieldy to make such good +way as the others. He was, however, by no means caught by our +people in fair chase; for, though these animals run with a +hobbling sort of canter, that makes them appear as if every now +and then about to fall, yet the slowest of them can far outstrip a +man. In this herd were two calves, much whiter than the rest, the +older ones having only the white saddle. In the evening, Sergeant +Martin succeeded in killing another bull; these two animals +afforded a very welcome supply of fresh meat, the first giving us +three hundred and sixty-nine, and the other three hundred and +fifty-two pounds of beef, which was served in the same manner as +before.[*] + +[Footnote: The total quantity of game obtained for the use of the +expedition during our stay upon the shores of Melville Island, +being a period of nearly twelve months, was as follows: 3 musk +oxen, 24 deer, 68 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, 144 ptarmigans: +affording 3766 pounds of meat.] + +It was gratifying to me to find that the officers unanimously +agreed with me in opinion that any farther attempt to penetrate to +the westward in our present parallel would be altogether +fruitless, and attended with a considerable loss of time, which +might be more usefully employed. They also agreed with me in +thinking that the plan which I had adopted, of running back along +the edge of the ice to the eastward, in order to look out for an +opening that might lead us towards the American Continent, was in +every respect the most advisable; and that, in the event of +failing to find any such opening after a reasonable time spent in +search, it would be expedient to return to England rather than +risk the passing another winter in these seas, without the +prospect of attaining any adequate object; namely, that of being +able to start from an advanced station at the commencement of the +following season. + +At three P.M. we were abreast of Cape Hearne; and, as we opened +the bay of the Hecla and Griper, the wind, as usual on this part +of the coast, came directly out from the northward; but, as soon +as we had stretched over to Bounty Cape, of which we were abreast +at eight P.M., it drew once more along the land from the westward. +The distance between the ice and the land increased as we +proceeded, and at midnight the channel appeared to be four or five +miles wide, as far as the darkness of the night would allow of our +judging; for we could at this period scarcely see to read in the +cabin at ten o'clock. The snow which fell during the day was +observed, for the first time, to remain upon the land without +dissolving; thus affording a proof of the temperature of the +earth's surface having again fallen below that of freezing, and +giving notice of the near approach of another long and dreary +winter. + +At seven P.M., a fog coming on, we hauled up close to the edge of +the ice, both as a guide to us in sailing during the continuance +of the thick weather, and to avoid passing any opening that might +occur in it to the southward. We were, in the course of the +evening, within four or five miles of the same spot where we had +been on the same day and at the same hour the preceding year; and, +by a coincidence perhaps still more remarkable, we were here once +more reduced to the same necessity as before, of steering the +ships by one another for an hour or two; the Griper keeping the +Hecla ahead, and our quartermaster being directed to keep the +Griper right astern, for want of some better mode of knowing in +what direction we were running. The fog froze hard as it fell upon +the rigging, making it difficult to handle the ropes in working +the ship, and the night was rather dark for three or four hours. + +At a quarter past three on the morning of the 30th, we bore up to +the eastward, the wind continuing fresh directly down Barrow's +Strait, except just after passing Prince Leopold's Islands, where +it drew into Prince Regent's Inlet, and, as soon as we had passed +this, again assumed its former westerly direction; affording a +remarkable instance of the manner in which the wind is acted upon +by the particular position of the land, even at a considerable +distance from it. The islands were encumbered with ice to the +distance of four or five miles all found them, but the Strait was +generally as clear and navigable as any part of the Atlantic. + +Having now traced the ice the whole way from the longitude of 114° +to that of 90°, without discovering any opening to encourage a +hope of penetrating it to the southward, I could not entertain the +slightest doubt that there no longer remained a possibility of +effecting our object with the present resources of the expedition; +and that it was therefore my duty to return to England with the +account of our late proceedings, that no time might be lost in +following up the success with which we had been favoured, should +his majesty's government consider it expedient to do so. Having +informed the officers and men in both ships of my intentions, I +directed the full allowance of provisions to be in future issued, +with such a proportion of fuel as might contribute to their +comfort; a luxury which, on account of the necessity that existed +for the strictest economy in this article, it must be confessed, +we had not often enjoyed since we entered Sir James Lancaster's +Sound. We had been on two thirds allowance of bread between ten +and eleven months, and on the same reduced proportion of the other +species of provisions between three and four; and, although this +quantity is scarcely enough for working men for any length of +time, I believe the reduction of fuel was generally considered by +far the greater privation of the two. + +As it appeared to me that considerable service might be rendered +by a general survey of the western coast of Baffin's Bay, which, +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound southward, might one day become +an important station for our whalers, I determined to keep as +close to that shore during our passage down as the ice and the +wind would permit; and as the experience of the former voyage had +led us to suppose that this coast would be almost clear of ice +during the whole of September, I thought that this month could not +be better employed than in the examination of its numerous bays +and inlets. Such an examination appeared to me more desirable, +from the hope of finding some new outlet into the Polar Sea in a +lower latitude than that of Sir James Lancaster's Sound; a +discovery which would be of infinite importance towards the +accomplishment of the Northwest Passage. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 68¼°.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + +The wind continuing fresh from the northward on the morning of the +1st of September, we bore up and ran along the land, taking our +departure from the flagstaff in Possession Bay, bearing W.S.W. +five miles, at half past four A.M. + +The ice led us off very much to the eastward after leaving Pond's +Bay; and the weather became calm, with small snow towards +midnight. In this day's run, the compass-courses were occasionally +inserted in the logbook, being the first time that the magnetic +needle had been made use of on board the Hecla, for the purposes +of navigation, for more than twelve months. + +On the morning of the 3d we passed some of the highest icebergs I +have ever seen, one of them being not less than one hundred and +fifty to two hundred feet above the sea, judging from the height +of the Griper's masts when near it. + +The vegetation was tolerably luxuriant in some places upon the low +land which borders the sea, consisting principally of the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, saxifrage, and poppy, with a few roots of +scurvy-grass. There was still a great deal of snow remaining even +on the lower parts of the land, on which were numerous ponds of +water; on one of these, a pair of young red-throated divers, which +could not rise, were killed; and two flocks of geese, one of them +consisting of not less than sixty or seventy, were seen by Mr. +Hooper, who described them as being very tame, running along the +beach before our people, without rising, for a considerable +distance. Some glaucous gulls and plovers were killed, and we met +with several tracks of bears, deers, wolves, foxes, and mice. The +coxswain of the boat found upon the beach part of the bone of a +whale, which had been cut at one end by a sharp instrument like an +axe, with a quantity of chips lying about it, affording undoubted +proof of this part of the coast having been visited at no distant +period by Esquimaux; it is more than probable, indeed, that they +may inhabit the shores of this inlet, which time would not now +permit us to examine. More than sixty icebergs of very large +dimensions were in sight from the top of the hill, together with a +number of extensive floes to the northeast and southeast, at the +distance of four or five leagues from the land. + +While occupied in attending to the soundings, soon after noon, our +astonishment may readily be conceived on seeing from the masthead +a ship, and soon after two others, in the offing, which were soon +ascertained to be whalers, standing in towards the land. They +afterward bore up to the northward along the edge of the ice which +intervened between us, and we lost sight of them at night. It was +now evident that this coast, which had hitherto been considered by +the whalers as wholly inaccessible in so high a latitude, had +become a fishing station, like that on the opposite or Greenland +shore; and the circumstance of our meeting so few whales in Sir +James Lancaster's Sound this season was at once accounted for by +supposing, what, indeed, we afterward found to be the case, that +the fishing-ships had been there before us, and had, for a time, +scared them from that ground. + +It was so squally on the morning of the 5th that we could scarcely +carry our double-reefed topsails, while, as we afterward learned +from the fishing-ships, which were in sight at daylight, there was +scarcely a breath of wind at a few leagues' distance from the +land. We coasted this low shore, as we had done in the preceding +voyage, at the distance of two or three miles, having from +twenty-three to twenty-nine fathoms water. We here met with +another of our fishing-ships, which proved to be the Lee, of Hull, +Mr. Williamson, master; from whom we learned, among other events +of a public nature which were altogether new to us, the public +calamity which England had sustained in the death of our late +venerable and beloved sovereign, and also the death of his Royal +Highness the Duke of Kent. Mr. Williamson, among others, had +succeeded in getting across the ice to this coast as high as the +latitude of 73°, and had come down to this part in pursuit of the +fish. One or two of the ships had endeavoured to return home by +running down this coast, but had found the ice so close about the +latitude of 69½° as to induce most of the others to sail back to +the northward, in order to get back in the same way that they +came. Mr. Williamson also reported his having, a day or two +before, met with some Esquimaux in the inlet named the River Clyde +in 1818, which was just to the southward of us. Considering it a +matter of some interest to communicate with these people, who had, +probably, not been before visited by Europeans, and that it might, +at the same time, be useful to examine the inlet, I bore up, as +soon as I had sent our despatches and letters on board the Lee, +and stood in towards the rocky islet, called Agnes's Monument, +passing between it and the low point which forms the entrance to +the inlet on the northern side. + +At six in the evening of the 6th, being near the outermost of the +islands with which we afterward found this inlet to be studded, we +observed four canoes paddling towards the ships; they approached +with great confidence, and came alongside without the least +appearance of fear or suspicion. While paddling towards us, and, +indeed, before we could plainly perceive their canoes, they +continued to vociferate loudly; but nothing like a song, nor even +any articulate sound, which can be expressed by words, could be +distinguished. Their canoes were taken on board by their own +desire, plainly intimated by signs, and with their assistance, and +they at once came up the side without hesitation. These people +consisted of an old man, apparently much above sixty, and three +younger, from nineteen to thirty years of age. As soon as they +came on deck, their vociferations seemed to increase with their +astonishment, and, I may add, their pleasure; for the reception +they met with seemed to create no less joy than surprise. Whenever +they received a present or were shown anything which excited fresh +admiration, they expressed their delight by loud and repeated +ejaculations, which they sometimes continued till they were quite +hoarse and out of breath with the exertion. This noisy mode of +expressing their satisfaction was accompanied by a jumping, which +continued for a minute or more, according to the degree of the +passion which excited it, and the bodily powers of the person who +exercised it; the old man being rather too infirm, but still doing +his utmost to go through the performance. + +After some time passed on deck, during which a few skins and ivory +knives were bought from them, they were taken down into the cabin. +The younger ones received the proposal to descend somewhat +reluctantly, till they saw that their old companion was willing to +show them the example, and they then followed without fear. +Although we were much at a loss for an interpreter, we had no +great difficulty in making the old man understand, by showing him +an engraved portrait of an Esquimaux, that Lieutenant Beechey was +desirous of making a similar drawing of him. He was accordingly +placed on a stool near the fire, and sat for more than an hour +with very tolerable composure and steadiness, considering that a +barter for their clothes, spears, and whalebone was going on at +the same time near him. He was, indeed, kept quiet by the presents +which were given him from time to time; and when this failed, and +he became impatient to move, I endeavoured to remind him that we +wished him to keep his position, by placing my hands before me, +holding up my head and assuming a grave and demure look. We now +found that the old gentleman was a mimic, as well as a very +good-natured and obliging man; for, whenever I did this he always +imitated me in such a manner as to create considerable diversion +among his own people as well as ours, and then very quietly kept +his seat. While he was sitting for his picture, the other three +stood behind him, bartering their commodities with great honesty, +but in a manner which showed them to be no strangers to traffic. +If, for instance, a knife was offered for any article, they would +hesitate for a short time, till they saw we were determined to +give no higher price, and then at once consented to the exchange. +In this case, as well as when anything was presented to them, they +immediately licked it twice with their tongues, after which they +seemed to consider the bargain satisfactorily concluded. The +youngest of the party very modestly kept behind the others, and, +before he was observed to have done so, missed several presents, +which his less diffident, though not importunate companions had +received. As the night closed in they became desirous to depart, +and they left us before dark, highly delighted with their visit. +As I had purchased one of their canoes, a boat was sent to land +its late owner, as only one person can sit in each. Mr. Palmer +informed me, that, in going on shore, the canoes could beat our +boat very much in rowing whenever the Esquimaux chose to exert +themselves, but they kept close to her the whole way. During the +time that they were on board, we had observed in them a great +aptness for imitating certain of our words; and, while going on +shore, they took a particular liking to the expression of "Hurra, +give way!" which they heard Mr. Palmer use to the boat's crew, and +which they frequently imitated, to the great amusement of all +parties. + +Soon after we had landed on the 7th, the old Esquimaux and one of +his younger companions paddled over from the main land, and joined +us upon the island. They brought with them, as before, some pieces +of whalebone and sealskin dresses, which were soon disposed of, +great care being taken by them not to produce more than one +article at a time; returning to their canoes, which were at a +little distance from our boat, after the purchase of each of their +commodities, till their little stock was exhausted. Considering it +desirable to keep up among them the ideas of fair and honest +exchange, which they already seemed to possess in no ordinary +degree, I did not permit them to receive anything as presents till +all their commodities had been regularly bought. While we were +waiting to obtain the sun's meridian altitude, they amused +themselves in the most good-natured and cheerful manner with the +boat's crew; and Lieutenant Hoppner, who, with Mr. Beverly, had +joined us in the Griper's boat, took this opportunity of making a +drawing of the young man. It required, however, some show of +authority, as well as some occasional rewards, to keep him quietly +seated on the rock for a time sufficient for this purpose; the +inclination they have to jump about, when much pleased, rendering +it a penalty of no trifling nature for them to sit still for half +an hour together. To show their disposition to do us what little +service was in their power, he afterward employed himself in +sharpening the seamen's knives, which he did with great expertness +on any flat smooth stone, returning each, as soon as finished, to +its proper owner, and then making signs for another, which he +sharpened and returned in the same way, without any attempt, and +apparently without the smallest desire, to detain it. The old man +was extremely inquisitive, and directed his attention to those +things which appeared useful rather than to those which were +merely amusing. An instance of this occurred on my ordering a tin +canister of preserved meat to be opened for the boats' crews' +dinner. The old man was sitting on the rock, attentively watching +the operation, which was performed with an axe struck by a mallet, +when one of the men came up to us with a looking-glass. I held it +up to each of the Esquimaux, who had also seen one on the +preceding evening, and then gave it into each of their hands +successively. The younger one was quite in raptures, and literally +jumped for joy for nearly a quarter of an hour: but the old man, +having had one smile at his own queer face, immediately resumed +his former gravity, and, returning me the glass, directed his +whole attention to the opening of the canister, and, when this was +effected, begged very hard for the mallet which had performed so +useful an office, without expressing the least wish to partake of +the meat, even when he saw us eating it with good appetites. Being +prevailed on, however, to taste a little of it, with some biscuit, +they did not seem at all to relish it, but ate a small quantity, +from an evident desire not to offend us, and then deposited the +rest safely in their canoes. They could not be persuaded to taste +any rum after once smelling it, even when much diluted with water. +I do not know whether it be a circumstance worthy of notice, that +when a kaleidoscope or a telescope was given them to look into, +they immediately shut one eye; and one of them used the right, and +the other the left eye. + +In getting out of their canoes, as well as into them, great care +is required to preserve the balance of these frail and unsteady +coracles, and in this they generally assist each other. As we were +leaving the island, and they were about to follow us, we lay on +our oars to observe how they would manage this; and it was +gratifying to see that the young man launched the canoe of his +aged companion, and, having carefully steadied it alongside the +rock till he had safely embarked, carried his own down, and +contrived, though with some difficulty, to get into it without +assistance. They seem to take especial care, in launching their +canoes, not to rub them against the rocks, by placing one end +gently in the water, and holding the other up high, till it can be +deposited without risk of injury. As soon as we commenced rowing, +the Esquimaux began to vociferate their newly-acquired expression +of "Hurra, give way!" which they continued at intervals, +accompanied by the most good-humoured merriment, as we crossed +over to the main land. There being now a little sea, occasioned by +a weather tide, we found that our boats could easily beat their +canoes in rowing, notwithstanding their utmost endeavours to keep +up with us. + +The two Esquimaux tents which we were now going to visit were +situated just within a low point of land, forming the eastern side +of the entrance to a considerable branch of the inlet, extending +some distance to the northward. The situation is warm and +pleasant, having a southwesterly aspect, and being in every +respect well adapted for the convenient residence of these poor +people. We landed outside the point, and walked over to the tents, +sending our boats, accompanied by the two canoes, round the point +to meet us. As soon as we came in sight of the tents, every living +animal there, men, women, children, and dogs, were in motion; the +latter to the top of the hill out of our way, and the rest to meet +as with loud and continued shouting; the word _pilletay_ (give me) +being the only articulate sound we could distinguish amid the +general uproar. Besides the four men whom we had already seen, +there were four women, one of whom, being about the same age as +the old man, was probably his wife; the others were about thirty, +twenty-two, and eighteen years of age. The first two of these, +whom we supposed to be married to the two oldest of the young men, +had infants slung in a kind of bag at their backs, much in the +same way as gipsies are accustomed to carry their children. There +were also seven children, from twelve to three years of age, +besides the two infants in arms, or, rather, behind their mothers' +backs; and the woman of thirty was with child. + +We began, as before, by buying whatever they had to dispose of, +giving in exchange knives, axes, brass kettles, needles, and other +useful articles, and then added such presents as might be farther +serviceable to them. From the first moment of our arrival until we +left them, or, rather, till we had nothing left to give, the +females were particularly importunate with us, and "pilletay" +resounded from the whole troop, wherever we went; they were +extremely anxious to obtain our buttons, apparently more on +account of the ornament of the crown and anchor which they +observed upon them than from any value they set upon their use; +and several of these were cut off our jackets to please their +fancy. When I first endeavoured to bargain for a sledge, the +persons I addressed gave me distinctly to understand by signs that +it was not their property, and pointed towards the woman who owned +it; though my ignorance in this respect offered a good opportunity +of defrauding me, had they been so inclined, by receiving an +equivalent for that which did not belong to them: on the owner's +coming forward, the bargain was quickly concluded. The pikes which +I gave in exchange underwent the usual ceremony of licking, and +the sledge was carried to our boat with the most perfect +understanding on both sides. In another instance, an axe was +offered by some of the Griper's gentlemen as the price of a dog, +to which the woman who owned the animal consented. To show that we +placed full confidence in them, the axe was given to her before +the dog was caught, and she immediately went away with a kind of +halter or harness of thongs, which, they use for this purpose, and +honestly brought one of the finest among them, though nothing +would have been easier than to evade the performance of the +contract. The readiness, however, with which they generally parted +with their commodities, was by no means the effect of fear, nor +did it always depend on the value of the articles offered in +exchange; for having, as I thought, concluded a bargain for a +second canoe belonging to the old woman, I desired the men to hand +it down to the boat; but I soon perceived that I had misunderstood +her, for she clung fast to the canoe, and cried most piteously +till it was set down; I then offered a larger price than before, +but she could not be induced to part with it. + +The stature of these people, like that of Esquimaux in general, is +much below the usual standard. The height of the old man, who was +rather bent by age, was four feet eleven inches; and that of the +other men, from five feet four and a half to five feet six inches. +Their faces are round and plump in the younger individuals; skin +smooth; complexion not very dark, except that of the old man; +teeth very white; eyes small; nose broad, but not very flat; hair +black, straight, and glossy; and their hands and feet extremely +diminutive. The old man had a gray beard, in which the black hairs +predominated, and wore the hair rather long upon his upper lip, +which was also the case with the eldest of the three others. + +The grown-up females measured from four feet ten to four feet +eleven inches. The features of the two youngest were regular; +their complexions clear, and by no means dark; their eyes small, +black, and piercing; teeth beautifully white and perfect; and, +although the form of their faces is round and chubby, and their +noses rather flat than otherwise, their countenances might, +perhaps, be considered pleasing, even according to the ideas of +beauty which habit has taught us to entertain. Their hair, which +is jet-black, hangs down long and loose about their shoulders, a +part of it on each side being carelessly platted, and sometimes +rolled up into an awkward lump, instead of being neatly tied on +the top of the head, as the Esquimaux women in most other parts +are accustomed to wear it. The youngest female had much natural +bashfulness and timidity, and we considered her to be the only +unmarried one, as she differed from the other three in not being +tattooed upon the face. Two of them had their hands tattooed also, +and the old woman had a few marks of the same kind about each +wrist. None of the men or children were thus distinguished. + +The children were generally good-looking, and the eldest boy, +about twelve years of age, was a remarkably fine and even handsome +lad. They were rather scared at us at first; but kind treatment +and a few trifling presents soon removed their fears, and made +them almost as importunate as the rest. + +The dress of the men consists of a sealskin jacket, with a hood, +which is occasionally drawn over the head, of which it forms the +only covering. The breeches are also generally of sealskin, and +are made to reach below the knee; and their boots, which meet the +breeches, are made of the same material. In this dress we +perceived no difference from that of the other Esquimaux, except +that the jacket, instead of having a pointed flap before and +behind, as usual, was quite straight behind, and had a sort of +scallop before in the centre. In the dress of the women there was +not so much regard to decency as in that of the men. The jacket is +of sealskin, with a short, pointed flap before, and a long one +behind, reaching almost to the ground. They had on a kind of +drawers, similar to those described by Crantz as the summer dress +of the Greenland women, and no breeches. The drawers cover the +middle part of the body, from the hips to one third down the +thigh, the rest of which is entirely naked as far as the knee. The +boots are like those of the men; and, besides these, they have a +pair of very loose leggins, as they may be called, which hang down +carelessly upon the top of the boots, suffering their thighs to be +exposed in the manner before described, but which may be intended +occasionally to fasten up, so as to complete the covering of the +whole body. The children are all remarkably well clothed; their +dress, both in male and female, being in every respect the same as +that of the men, and composed entirely of sealskin very neatly +sewed. + +The tents which compose their summer habitations are principally +supported by a long pole of whalebone, fourteen feet high, +standing perpendicularly, with four or five feet of it projecting +above the skins which form the roof and sides. The length of the +tent is seventeen, and its breadth from seven to nine feet, the +narrowest part being next the door, and widening towards the inner +part, where the bed, composed of a quantity of the small shrubby +plant, the _Andromeda Tetragona_, occupies about one third of the +whole apartment. The pole of the tent is fixed where the bed +commences, and the latter is kept separate by some pieces of bone +laid across the tent from side to side. The door, which faces the +southwest, is also formed of two pieces of bone, with the upper +ends fastened together, and the skins are made to overlap in that +part of the tent, which is much lower than the inner end. The +covering is fastened to the ground by curved pieces of bone, being +generally parts of the whale; the tents were ten or fifteen yards +apart, and about the same distance from the beach. + +The canoe which I purchased, and which was one of the best of the +five that we saw, is sixteen feet eleven inches in length, and its +extreme breadth two feet one inch and a half; two feet of its fore +end are out of the water when floating. It differs from the canoe +of Greenland in being somewhat lower at each end, and also in +having a higher rim or gunwale, as it may be termed, round the +circular hole where the man sits, which may make them somewhat +safer at sea. Their construction is, in other respects, much the +same; the timbers or ribs, which are five or six inches apart, as +well as the fore and aft connecting pieces, being of whalebone or +drift-wood, and the skins with which they were covered, those of +the seal and walrus. When the canoes are taken on the shore, they +are carefully placed upon two upright piles or pillars of stones, +four feet high from the ground, in order to allow the air to pass +under to dry them, and prevent their rotting. The paddle is double +and made of fir, the edges of the blade being covered with hard +bone to secure them from wearing. + +The spears or darts which they use in killing seals and other sea +animals, consist, like the harpoons of our fishermen, of two +parts, a staff, and the spear itself; the former is usually of +wood, when so scarce and valuable a commodity can be obtained, +from three and a half to five feet in length, and the latter of +bone, about eighteen inches long, sometimes tipped with iron, but +more commonly ground to a blunt point at one end, while the other +fits into a socket in the staff, to which it is firmly secured by +thongs. The lines which they attach to their spears are very +neatly cut out of sealskins, and, when in a state of preparation, +are left to stretch till dry between the tents, and then made up +into coils for use. They make use of a bladder fastened to the end +of the line, in the same manner as the other Esquimaux. Besides +the spears, we purchased an instrument having a rude hook of iron +let into a piece of bone, and secured by thongs to a staff, the +hook being sharply pointed, but not barbed. While we were on the +island (to which I had applied the name of Observation Island), it +happened that a small bird flew near us, when one of the Esquimaux +made a sign of shooting it with a bow and arrow in a manner which +could not be misunderstood. It is remarkable, therefore, that we +could not find about their tents any of these weapons, except a +little one of five or six inches long, the bow being made of +whalebone and the arrow of fir, with a feather at one end and a +blunt point of bone at the other, evidently appearing to be a +child's toy, and intended, perhaps, to teach the use of it at an +early age. + +The runners of the only sledge we saw were composed of the right +and left jawbones of a young whale, being nine feet nine inches +long, and one foot seven inches apart, and seven inches high from +the ground. They are connected by a number of parallel pieces, +made out of the ribs of the whale, and secured transversely with +seizings of whalebone, so as to form the bottom of the sledge, and +the back is made of two deers' horns placed in an upright +position. The lower part of the runners is shod with a harder kind +of bone, to resist the friction against the ground. The whole +vehicle is rudely executed, and, being nearly twice the weight of +the sledges we saw among the northern Esquimaux, is probably +intended for carrying heavy burdens. The dogs were not less than +fifty or sixty in number, and had nothing about them different +from those on the eastern coast of Baffin's Bay, except they do +not stand near so high as those of the latitude of 76°. They are +very shy and wild, and the natives had great difficulty in +catching them while we were by, as well as holding them in when +caught. Some of them have much more of the wolf in their +appearance than others, having very long heads and sharp noses, +with a brushy tail, almost always carried between the legs; while +the bodies of others are less lank, as well as their noses less +sharp, and they carry their tails handsomely curled over their +backs: their colour varied from quite dark to brindled. The +ravenous manner in which they devour their food is almost +incredible. Both the old and young ones, when a bird is given +them, generally swallow feathers and all; and an old dog that I +purchased, though regularly fed while on board by a person +appointed for that purpose, ate up, with great avidity, a large +piece of canvass, a cotton handkerchief, which one of the men had +just washed and laid down by his side, and a part of a check +shirt. The young dogs will at any time kill themselves by +over-eating if permitted. The children appeared to have some right +of property in the smaller puppies, or else their parents are very +indulgent to them, for several bargains of this kind were made +with them, without any objection or interference on the part of +the parents, who were standing by at the time. + +Within a few stones, irregularly placed in a corner of each tent, +was a lump of oil and moss, and over each of these was suspended a +small stone vessel of an oblong shape, and broader at the top than +at the bottom, containing a large mess of seahorse flesh, with a +great quantity of thick gravy. Some ribs of this meat were by no +means bad looking; and, but for the blood mixed with the gravy, +and the dirt which accompanied the cooking, might perhaps be +palatable enough. I bargained with a woman for one of the stone +vessels, giving her a brass kettle in exchange. Before she gave it +into my possession, she emptied the meat into another vessel, and +then, with the flap of her jacket, wiped out the remains of the +gravy; thus combining with what our notions of cleanliness incline +us to consider a filthy act, an intention of decency and a desire +to oblige us, which, however inconsistent, it was pleasing to +observe. Some of their vessels are made of whalebone, in a +circular form, one piece being bent into the proper shape for the +sides, and another flat piece, of the same material, sewn to it +for a bottom, so closely as to make it perfectly water tight. +Their knives are made of the tusks of the walrus, cut or ground +sufficiently thin for the purpose, and retaining the original +curve of the tusk, so as to resemble the little swords which +children have as toys in England. As they do not appear to have +any instrument like a saw, great time and labour must be required +in making one of these knives, which seem to answer most of the +purposes to which they have occasion to apply them. + +From the description given to us by Mr. Williamson, we found that +these were the same persons who had been seen by the Lee's people; +but we had several proofs of their having had some previous +communication, directly or indirectly, with the civilized world; +such as some light-blue beads, strung by themselves on thin +leathern threads; and an instrument for chopping, very much +resembling a cooper's adze, which had evidently been secured to a +handle of bone for some time past, and of which the iron was part +of an old file. + +The short time we were among them, as well as the want of an +interpreter, prevented our obtaining much of the information, +which would have been interesting, respecting the language, +manners, and number of this tribe of Esquimaux. They call the bear +_nennook_, the deer _tooktook_, and the hare _ookalik_, being +nearly the same words as those used on the eastern coast of +Baffin's Bay. As it was considered a matter of some interest to +ascertain whether they were acquainted with the musk-ox, a drawing +of that animal was put before the men who were on board. The small +size of it seemed, at first sight, to confound them; but, as soon +as the real head and horns were produced, they immediately +recognised them, and eagerly repeated the word _oomingmack_, which +at once satisfied us that they knew the musk-ox, and that this was +the animal spoken of by the Esquimaux of Greenland, under the same +name, somewhat differently pronounced. + +To judge by their appearance, and what is, perhaps, a better +criterion, the number of their children, there could be little +doubt that the means of subsistence which they possess are very +abundant; but of this we had more direct proof by the quantity of +seahorses and seals which we found concealed under stones along +the shore of the north branch, as well as on Observation Island. +Mr. Fife reported that, in sounding the north branch, he met with +their winter huts above two miles above the tents on the same +shore, and that they were partly excavated from a bank facing the +sea, and the rest built round with stones. + +We saw no appearance of disease among the seventeen persons who +inhabited the tents, except that the eyes of the old couple were +rather blear, and a very young infant looked pale and sickly. The +old man had a large scar on one side of his head, which he +explained to us very clearly to be a wound he had received from a +_nennook_ (bear). Upon the whole, these people may be considered +in possession of every necessary of life, as well as of most of +the comforts and conveniences which can be enjoyed in so rude a +state of society. In the situation and circumstances in which the +Esquimaux of North Greenland are placed, there is much to excite +compassion for the low state to which human nature appears to be +there reduced; a state in few respects superior to that of the +bear or the seal which they kill for their subsistence. But, with +these, it was impossible not to experience a feeling of a more +pleasing kind: there was a respectful decency in their general +behaviour, which at once struck us as very different from that of +the other untutored Esquimaux, and in their persons there was less +of that intolerable filth by which these people are so generally +distinguished. But the superiority for which they are the most +remarkable is, the perfect honesty which characterized all their +dealings with us. During the two hours that the men were on board, +and for four or five hours that we were subsequently among them on +shore (on both which occasions the temptation to steal from us was +perhaps stronger than we can well imagine, and the opportunity of +doing so by no means wanting), not a single instance occurred, to +my knowledge, of their pilfering the most trifling article. It is +pleasing to record a fact no less singular in itself than +honourable to these simple people. + +Having made the necessary observations, we went to the tents to +take leave of our new acquaintance. The old man seemed quite +fatigued with the day's exertions; but his eyes sparkled with +delight, and we thought with gratitude too, on being presented +with another brass kettle to add to the stores with which we had +already enriched him. He seemed to understand us when we shook him +by the hand; the whole group watched us in silence as we went into +the boat, and, as soon as we had rowed a few hundred yards from +the beach, quietly returned to their tents. + +The wind being contrary on the 8th, we made very little progress +to the southward. The soundings continuing as regular as before, +we stood in-shore to eleven fathoms, and put the trawl overboard +for an hour or two in the afternoon, bringing up a great quantity +of sea-eggs, a few very small oysters, and some marine insects, +but nothing that could furnish us with a fresh meal. + +The wind having fallen, we made little progress to the southeast +till the morning of the 12th, when a light breeze springing up +from the southwest, all sail was made to examine the state of the +ice. On approaching the floes, however, we found such a quantity +of bay-ice, the formation of which upon the surface had been +favoured by the late calm weather, that the Hecla was soon stopped +altogether; a circumstance which gave us, as usual, much trouble +in extricating ourselves from it, but not very material as +regarded our farther progress to the southward, the floes being +found to stretch quite close in to the land, leaving no passage +whatever between them. The compasses now traversed very freely, +and were made use of for the purposes of navigation in the +ordinary way. + +The fog continued so thick on the 16th as to oblige us to keep the +ships fast to the floe. In the afternoon the deep-sea clamms were +sent down to the bottom with two thousand and ten fathoms of line, +which were fifty-eight minutes in running out, during which time +no perceptible check could be observed, nor even any alteration in +the velocity with which the line ran out. In hauling it in again, +however, which occupied both ships' companies above an hour and a +half, we found such a quantity of the line covered with mud as to +prove that the whole depth of water was only eight hundred and +nine fathoms, the rest of the line having continued to run out by +its own weight, after the instrument had struck the ground. I have +before had occasion to remark that, on this account, it is not +easy to ascertain the actual depth of the sea in the usual manner +when it exceeds five or six hundred fathoms. + +The ships were secured to a berg at six P.M. of the 18th, and the +wind having freshened up to a gale from the N.W.b.N., with some +swell, we were much annoyed during the night by the ice which +drifted under the lee of it, and on which the ships were +constantly striking with a heavy shock, such as no others could +have long withstood. This danger is avoided by ships lying very +close under the lee of a berg, but a much greater is thereby +incurred from the risk of the berg's upsetting; a circumstance +which is always to be apprehended in a swell, and which must be +attended with certain destruction to a ship moored very near to +it. + +On the 24th and 25th we continued our progress to the southward, +but without any success in approaching, or even getting sight of, +the land; the ice being as close and compact as when we sailed +along the margin of it in July of the preceding year. Soon after +noon on the 24th we crossed the Arctic Circle, having been within +it fourteen months and three weeks. + +On the morning of the 26th we again stood to the westward as much +as the ice would allow, but were soon obliged by it to keep away +to the southward, precluding every hope of making the land on that +part of the coast which it would have been most interesting to +explore. In the afternoon, after various attempts to get to the +westward, appearances became more unpromising than ever, the +packed ice extending from N.b.E. round to S.W. There were, indeed, +parts of the ice which, with constant daylight, a ship might have +entered with some probability of success; but, with twelve hours' +night, the attempt must have been attended with a degree of risk +which nothing but a very important object could justify. The wind +had now freshened up from the N.N.W., and the mercury in the +barometer fell with unusual rapidity, with every other appearance +of an approaching gale. I was therefore under the necessity of +admitting the conclusion that, under existing circumstances, the +season was now too far advanced, and the state of the ice too +unfavourable, to allow of any farther examination of the coast; +and I determined, therefore, to make the best of my way to +England. The boats were accordingly hoisted in, and the ships made +snug while in smooth water under the lee of the ice, and a course +was then shaped to the E.S.E., in order to obtain an offing before +we bore away to the southward. + +On the second of October, in scudding before the wind under the +main-topsail, a heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard +quarter, rendering it necessary to press her forward under more +canvass, by which we lost sight of the Griper in the course of the +morning. As soon as the weather moderated, we hove-to for her; +but, as she did not make her appearance, having, as we afterward +learned, been obliged to lie-to during the height of the gale, we +continued our course out of the Straits, and did not again meet +with the Griper till our return to England. + +On the afternoon of the 16th, the sea being very high and +irregular, and the ship pitching with considerable violence, the +bowsprit was carried away close to the gammoning, and the foremast +and main-topmast immediately followed it over the side. The wreck +was quickly cleared; and, by the greatest activity and energy on +the part of the officers and men, the mainyard and mainmast were +saved, the latter having been endangered by the foremast falling +across the stay, and the former by the wreck of the main-topmast +and top-sail-yard lying upon it. Notwithstanding the continuance +of the gale, and the uneasy motion of the ship for the next two +days, we succeeded in getting up our jury masts so as to make sail +on the evening of the 18th. + +On the 29th we made Buchaness, and on the following day, the wind +having come to the southward, so as to make our progress very +slow, I landed at Peterhead, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr. +Hooper; having first, in compliance with their lordships' +directions, demanded from the officers, petty officers, and all +other persons on board the Hecla, the logs, journals, charts, +drawings, and other documents which the voyage had furnished, and +directed Lieutenant Beechey to proceed with all possible despatch +to Leith. Captain Sabine and myself proceeded without delay to +London, where we arrived on the morning of the 3d of November. + + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A +NORTHWEST PASAGE + + + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +The discoveries made by the expedition to the northwest in the +years 1819-20 being such as to afford a strong presumption in +favour of the existence of a passage from the Atlantic to the +Pacific in that direction, his majesty commanded another attempt +to be made to effect that object; and the lords commissioners of +the admiralty were pleased once more to honour me with the command +of an expedition, to be equipped at Deptford for that purpose. The +Hecla having been found well adapted to this service, a second +ship of precisely the same class was now selected, and I received +my commission for his majesty's ship the Fury, of three hundred +and seventy-seven tons burden, on the 30th of December, 1820. The +Hecla was recommissioned by Captain George Francis Lyon on the 4th +of January following. + +In our official instructions I was directed to proceed, as quickly +as might be consistent with every precaution, towards or into +Hudson's Strait until the ice was met with, when the Nautilus +transport, which was directed by the navy board to be placed at my +disposal, was to be cleared of its provisions and stores. We were +then to penetrate to the westward, through Hudson's Strait, until +we reached (either in Repulse Bay, or on other part of the shores +of Hudson's Strait to the north of Wager River) some part of the +coast, which I felt convinced was a portion of the _Continent_ of +America. + +If we happily reached the Pacific, we were to proceed to +Kamschatka, from thence to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, and, +having refitted the ships and refreshed the crews, to return to +England by such route as might be deemed convenient. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +The FURY, HECLA, and NAUTILUS transport were completed for sea +towards the latter part of the month of April, and on the 29th, at +ten A.M., the Fury was taken in tow by the Eclipse steamboat, +which vessel had before taken us down the river on a similar +occasion. The Hecla reached the moorings on the following day, and +the Nautilus on the first of May. + +Nothing of consequence happened during our passage across the +Atlantic; but, after entering Davis's Straits, we had for several +days variable and unsettled weather, the wind blowing principally +from the southward, with a heavy swell from the same quarter. On +the 14th we met with the first iceberg, being in lat. 60° 48', +long. 53° 13'. + +Having now reached the situation in which I was directed, by my +instructions, to clear the Nautilus of our stores, I gave +Lieutenant Scrymgour his instructions to return to England; and at +one A.M. on the 1st of July he parted company, while the Fury and +Hecla stood in towards the ice. A whaler, deeply laden, and +apparently homeward bound, was at this time in sight to the +eastward. + +At seven P.M., Tuesday, 3d July, the ice opposed our farther +progress to the westward, covering the whole sea as far as the eye +could reach in that direction; the ships were therefore, of +necessity, hove to, in order to await some change in our favour. +The ice here consisted principally of large though loose masses of +broken floes, none covering more than a quarter of an acre, and +few so much, but having many high hummocks, and drawing a great +deal of water. We counted also above thirty bergs in sight at one +time, and observed that many of them were carried about by the +tides with great rapidity. + +The wind shifted to the southeastward in the night of the 5th, +with a strong breeze and heavy rain; and, on the following +morning, when the ebb-tide opened the ice a little, a considerable +swell was admitted from the sea, causing the ships to strike +violently and almost constantly on the masses of ice alongside of +them. In this situation they continued for several hours so +completely beset as to render it impossible to extricate them, and +drifting about at random with the tides. The Hecla was, by a +different set of the stream, separated five or six miles from the +Fury, while both ships were equally hampered. + +On the 13th, both ships' companies were exercised in firing at a +target on the ice, as well for the purpose of giving them +occupation as of finding out who were the best shots. On the same +afternoon we saw two ships beset to the northward, which we +supposed to be those bound to the Hudson's Bay factories. They +were joined the next day by a third ship, which afterward proved +to be, as we conjectured, the Lord Wellington, having on board +settlers for the Red River. + +The ice being rather less close on the morning of the 16th, we +made sail to the westward at 7.45 A.M., and continued "boring" in +that situation the whole day, which enabled us to join the three +strange ships. They proved to be, as we had supposed, the Prince +of Wales, Eddystone, and Lord Wellington, bound to Hudson's Bay. I +sent a boat to the former to request Mr. Davidson, the master, to +come on board, which he immediately did. From him we learned that +the Lord Wellington having on board one hundred and sixty settlers +for the Red River, principally foreigners, of both sexes and every +age, had now been twenty days among the ice, and had been drifted +about in various directions at no small risk to the ship. By the +Prince of Wales we sent our last letters for our friends in +England. + +Proceeding slowly to the westward, we had reached at noon on the +21st the lat. of 61° 50' 13", long., by chronometers, 67° 07' 35". +In this situation several islands were in sight to the northward +and westward, and, among the rest, a remarkable one called +Saddle-back on account of its shape. The wind backing to the +westward in the afternoon, we anchored the ships to the largest +floe-piece we could find, there not being room to beat to the +windward. While thus employed we heard voices in-shore, which we +soon knew to be those of some Esquimaux coming off to us. Shortly +after, several canoes made their appearance, and seventeen of +these people came alongside the Fury. Having hauled their _kayaks_ +(canoes) upon the floe, they began to barter their commodities, +consisting of seal and whale blubber, whalebone, spears, lines, +and the skins of the seal, bear, fox, deer, and dog. Our first +endeavour was to procure as much oil as possible, of which, as we +had been informed by the Hudson's Bay ships, several tons are thus +almost annually obtained from these people. We soon found that +they had been well accustomed to bargain-making, for it was with +some difficulty that we could prevail on them to sell the oil for +anything of reasonable value. They frequently gave us to +understand that they wanted saws and harpoons in exchange for it, +and as these were articles which we could not spare, it was not +without trouble that we obtained, in the course of the evening, +two barrels of blubber in exchange for several knives, large +nails, and pieces of iron hoop, which was certainly a dear bargain +on our side. If they saw more than one of these at a time, they +would try hard to get the whole for the commodity they were +offering, though, when we had for some time persisted in refusing, +they would not only accept what was offered, but jump for joy at +having obtained it. They always licked the articles given them, +and in one instance only did we notice any inclination to break +the contract after this process had been gone through. + +Shortly after these men had arrived, a large _oomiak_, or woman's +boat, made its appearance, containing six or seven females and +four men, the oldest of the latter, as is usual among them, +steering the boat with a rude oar of wood. The women could not be +induced to land upon the floe, but held up skins and small narrow +strips of well-tanned leather to exchange, loudly vociferating +_pilletay_ (give me) the whole time. There were in this boat +several skins of oil and blubber, which I tried hard to purchase, +but nothing could induce the old man to part with more than one +skin of it; for what reason I could not tell, except that he +hoped, by perseverance, to obtain a higher price. On my desiring +our men to hand out a second skin of oil, as an equivalent for +which I put into the old man's hand a second knife, he resisted +most vehemently, pushing our men aside in the boat with a violence +I have never seen the Esquimaux use on any other occasion. One of +the younger men then came forward, and was lifting up the stretcher +of their boat to strike our people, who were good-humouredly +laughing at the old man's violence, when I thought it high time to +interpose, and, raising a boat-hook over the head of the Esquimaux, +as if about to strike them, soon brought them into a cooler mood; +after which, to prevent farther altercation, I ordered our people +out of the boat. We had by this time succeeded in purchasing all +the oil brought by the first canoes; and as the old fellow, who was +commanding officer of the _oomiak_, obstinately persisted in his +refusal to sell his, I ordered him away, when he immediately rowed +to the Hecla, and, as I was afterward informed by Captain Lyon, +sold his oil for less than he might have obtained at first. Four +other _oomiaks_ afterward came from the shore, from which we were +distant five or six miles. Each of these contained from fourteen to +twenty-six persons, the majority being females and young children. +Upon the whole, not less than one hundred of the natives visited +the ships in the course of the evening. + +These people possessed in an eminent degree the disposition to +steal all they could lay their hands on, which has almost +universally been imputed to every tribe of Esquimaux hitherto +visited by Europeans. They tried more than once the art of picking +our pockets, and were as bold and unembarrassed as ever +immediately after detection. It is impossible to describe the +horribly disgusting manner in which they sat down, as soon as they +felt hungry, to eat their raw blubber, and to suck the oil +remaining on the skins we had just emptied, the very smell of +which, as well as the appearance, was to us almost insufferable. +The disgust which our seaman could not help expressing at this +sight seemed to create in the Esquimaux the most malicious +amusement; and when our people turned away, literally unable to +bear the sight without being sick, they would, as a good joke +among themselves, run after them, holding out a piece of blubber +or raw seal's flesh dripping with oil and filth, as if inviting +them to partake of it. Both the men and women were guilty of still +more disgusting indecencies, which seemed to afford them amazing +diversion. A worse trait even than all these was displayed by two +women alongside the Hecla, who, in a manner too unequivocal to be +misunderstood, offered to barter their children for some article +of trifling value, beginning very deliberately to strip them of +their clothes, which they did not choose to consider as included +in the intended bargain. + +Upon the whole, it was impossible for us not to receive a very +unfavourable impression of the general behaviour and moral +character of the natives of this part of Hudson's Strait, who seem +to have acquired, by an annual intercourse with our ships for +nearly a hundred years, many of the vices which unhappily attend a +first intercourse with the civilized world, without having imbibed +any of the virtues or refinements which adorn and render it happy. + +Early on the morning of the 22d a number of canoes repeated their +visit to us, the Esquimaux having hauled them upon a piece of ice +to lodge for the night. In the forenoon an _oomiak_ also came from +the shore, and as no intercourse with them was permitted till +after divine service, they became very impatient to barter their +commodities, and walked on the ice alongside the ships, with a +number of trifling things in their hands, vociferating "pilletay" +to such a degree that we could hardly hear ourselves speak. Some +more oil was obtained in exchange for pieces of iron hoop, and, at +a quarter before noon, the wind coming more to the southward, and +the ice being somewhat less close than before, we cast off and +made sail up the strait. + +The wind and ice combined to favour us more and more as we +proceeded, the former both in strength and direction, and the +latter by opening into loose streams, so that, for the first time +since we entered Hudson's Strait, we were now enabled to set all +the studding-sails, with some prospect of deriving advantage from +them. The Hudson's Bay ships remained at anchor some time after we +made sail, and in the course of the evening we finally lost sight +of them. From this circumstance, as well as from the unimpeded +progress we had just begun to make to the westward, it was now +only that we considered our voyage as having fairly commenced. + +We continued, on the first of August, to beat to the westward, +between Nottingham Island and the North Shore, the distance +between which is about four leagues, and the latter fringed with +numerous islands. In the course of the morning, several canoes and +one _oomiak_ came off from the mainland, containing about twenty +persons, more than half of whom were women and children. They +brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, +which they were willing to exchange for any trifle we chose to +give them. They had also a number of toys of various kinds, such +as canoes with their paddles, spears, and bows and arrows, all on +a very large scale. Many of the jackets of these people, and +particularly those of the females, were lined with the skins of +birds, having the feathers inside; and they had also in the boat +several other skins in a prepared state, taken from the throat of +the _colymbus glacialis_, which splendid bird, though we had twice +found its skin in possession of the Esquimaux, we had yet not met +with ourselves. + +The expedition being now about to enter upon ground not hitherto +explored, it became necessary for me to decide upon the route it +would be most advantageous to pursue for the accomplishment of the +principal objects pointed out in my instructions. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +After the most anxious consideration, I came to the resolution of +attempting the direct passage of the Frozen Strait; though, I +confess, not without some apprehension of the risk I was +incurring, and of the serious loss of time which, in case of +failure either from the non-existence of the strait or from the +insuperable obstacles which its name implies, would thus be +inevitably occasioned to the expedition. + +The accounts given by Captain Middleton of the latitude of the +western entrance of the Frozen Strait are so confused, and even +contradictory, that the present appearance of the land perplexed +me extremely in deciding whether or not we had arrived at the +opposite end of the opening to which he had given that name. That +immediately before us to the westward, though it agreed in +latitude within five or six miles with the southernmost parallel +he has assigned to it, appeared much too narrow to answer his +description of the passage we were in search of. Upon the whole, +however, I thought it most probable that this was the strait in +question; and as, at all events, the opening between Southampton +Island and the land to the northward of it, in whatever latitude +it might be found, and whether wide or narrow, was the passage +through which it was our present object to penetrate into Repulse +Bay, I decided on using our utmost exertions to push through the +narrow strait now before us. + +On the morning of the 13th we observed something very like smoke +rising from about Cape Welsford, which, being confined to one +spot, was thought likely to be occasioned by the fires of natives. +Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather about this time; +the climate was, indeed, altogether so different from that to +which we had before been accustomed in the icy seas, as to be a +matter of constant remark. The days were temperate and clear, and +the nights not cold, though a very thin plate of ice was usually +formed upon the surface of the sea in sheltered places, and in the +pools of water upon the floes. After sunset we descried land, +appearing very distant, through the middle of the strait, which we +considered to be that on the American side of the Welcome. At this +time, also, we observed some ice in the centre of the strait +heavier than that which covered the rest of the sea, and +apparently aground in shoal water, as afterward proved to be the +case. + +On the 15th we were within a league of a remarkable headland on +Southampton Island, which I named CAPE BYLOT, as being probably +the westernmost land seen by that navigator in 1615. In the mean +time, the Hecla, still continuing very closely beset, had, in +spite of every exertion, drifted back with the ice several miles +to the northward and eastward, so that in the course of the +evening we lost sight of her altogether. This latter circumstance +was, however, owing in great measure to the extraordinary +refraction upon the horizon, making terrestrial objects at the +distance of six or seven miles appear flattened down or depressed, +as well as otherwise much deformed. + +At six P.M., having beat up within five or six miles of the +entrance of the strait, and being anxious to sound the channel, +which appeared narrow, but without any ice in it to offer us +obstruction, I left the ship in the gig, accompanied by Mr. Ross, +for this purpose. + +The part of Southampton Island on which we landed is about a +thousand feet high, and composed of gneiss. Every here and there +along the shore, between the projecting points of rocks, is a +small cove or bay, having a beach composed of small pieces of +limestone, which make the water almost as white as milk. Landing +in one of these coves, we carried the boat above high-water mark; +and making a tent of her sail, lay very comfortably during the +night. When the boat first touched the beach, we observed an +innumerable quantity of the little fish called sillocks swimming +about, several of which were killed by the boat-hooks or taken in +the hand. A great number of white whales, seals, and narwhals were +also playing about near the beach during the night. The white +whales were the most numerous; the noise these animals made +resembled a hoarse, low-toned barking more than any other to which +I can compare it; and we remarked that their colour was whiter +than any we had before seen. + +As soon as it was daylight Mr. Ross and myself ascended the hill +above our sleeping-place, from whence we could perceive land +stretching round to the westward and northward, so as apparently +to leave no opening in that quarter. We were much surprised at the +low and yellowish appearance of this land, both of which +circumstances we were at a loss to reconcile with Captain +Middleton's description of the bold shore of the American +Continent, on the western side of the Welcome, about this +latitude. It was pleasing, however, to observe a large expanse of +sea, wholly unencumbered with ice, in the direction we were now +about to pursue; and we therefore hastened to the beach to +continue the survey of the strait, that no time might be lost in +taking advantage of this favourable circumstance. + +After completing our observations and examination of the channel, +we reached the ship by eight A.M., the Fury having, with great +attention, been kept close off the entrance of the strait during +the night. The Hecla had at this time just hove in sight, under a +press of sail, to the eastward, having at length, with much +difficulty, succeeded in getting into clear water. + +At half past nine on the 17th we got under way, and stood under +all sail to the N.N.E., where alone, as on the preceding evening, +there appeared the smallest chance of finding any outlet. + +Having determined the continuity of land all round this +magnificent bay, possessing so many advantages that would render +it invaluable in a more temperate climate, the officers honoured +it with the name of the DUKE OF YORK'S BAY, in consequence of the +expedition having first entered it on the birthday of his royal +highness. + +It being now evident that the inlet into which, in the course of +our endeavours to penetrate to the westward, we had unavoidably +been led, would afford us no passage in that direction, I gave +orders for weighing at the turn of tide, being determined at once +to run back through the narrow channel by which we had entered, +and to push to the northward without delay, in search of some more +favourable opening. + +Our uncertainty respecting the true situation of the Frozen +Strait, together with the want of observations during the day, +left us, at this time, in doubt whether we had already penetrated +through that passage, or had still to encounter the difficulties +which the former accounts of it had led us to anticipate. + +We stood up the bay towards daylight, and at seven A.M. I left the +Fury, accompanied by a large party of officers, having by signal +requested Captain Lyon to join us. We landed upon a point just to +the eastward of this bight, in which neighbourhood are several +little islands and coves, probably affording good anchorage, but +which the more immediate objects we had in view did not permit us +to examine. Upon the point we found the remains of no less than +sixty Esquimaux habitations, consisting of stones laid one over +the other in very regular circles, eight or nine feet in diameter, +besides nearly a hundred other rude, though certainly artificial +structures, some of which had been fireplaces, others storehouses, +and the rest tolerably-built walls four or five feet high, placed +two and two, and generally eight or nine feet apart, which these +people use for their canoes, as well as to keep the dogs from +gnawing them. A great many circles of stones were also seen more +inland. About three miles to the N.N.W. of our landing-place, our +people reported having seen fifteen others of the same kind, and +what they took to be a burying-ground, consisting of nine or ten +heaps of large stones, of three feet in diameter, and as many in +height. Under these were found a variety of little implements, +such as arrow or spear heads tipped with stone or iron, arrows, +small models of canoes and paddles, some rough pieces of bone and +wood, and one or two strips of asbestos, which, as Crantz informs +us, is used by the natives of Greenland for the wick of their +lamps, and for applying hot, in certain diseases, to the afflicted +part.[*] Under these articles were found smaller stones, placed as +a pavement, six or seven feet in length, which, in the part not +concealed by the larger stones, was covered with earth. Our men +had not the curiosity or inclination to dig any deeper, but a +human scull was found near the spot. Our people also reported +that, several miles inland of this, they observed stones set up as +marks, many of which we also met with in the neighbourhood of the +point. Of these marks, which occur so abundantly in every part of +the American coast that we visited, we could not then conjecture +the probable use, but we afterward learned that the Esquimaux set +them up to guide them in travelling from place to place, when a +covering of snow renders it difficult to distinguish one spot from +another. We found among the stones some seals' bones, with the +flesh still upon them, which seemed to indicate that the natives +had occupied this station during a part of the same season and +judging from the number of circles collected in this place, and +still more from our subsequent knowledge of these people, it is +probable that not less than one hundred and twenty persons had +taken up their residence here at the same time. + +[Footnote: Crantz, i., 236. The Esquimaux on this part of the +coast use it only as sticks for trimming their lamps.] + +The latitude observed on shore was 66° 30' 58", being the first +observation we had yet obtained so near the Arctic Circle, but far +to the southward of that given by Captain Middleton.[*] The +longitude, by chronometers, was 86° 30' 20"; the dip of the +magnetic needle, 88° 07' 28"; and the variation, 48° 32' 57" +westerly; being only a degree and a half less than that observed +by Middleton in 1742. + +[Footnote: The difference amounts to about twenty miles. It is but +justice, however, to the memory of Captain Middleton to add, that +several miles of this error may have been occasioned by the +imperfection of nautical instruments in his day, combined with the +unavoidable inaccuracy of observations made by the horizon of the +sea when encumbered with much ice. On this latter account, as well +as from the extraordinary terrestrial refraction, no observation +can be here depended upon, unless made with an artificial +horizon.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +Having now satisfactorily determined the non-existence of a +passage to the westward through Repulse Bay, to which point I was +particularly directed in my instructions, it now remained for me, +in compliance with my orders, to "keep along the line of this +coast to the northward, always examining every bend or inlet which +might appear likely to afford a practicable passage to the +westward." It was here, indeed, that our voyage, as regarded its +main object, may be said to have commenced, and we could not but +congratulate ourselves on having reached this point so early, and +especially at having passed, almost without impediment, the strait +to which, on nearly the same day[*] seventy-nine years before, so +forbidding a name had been applied. + +[Footnote: Middleton discovered the Frozen Strait on the 20th +August 1742, according to the New Style.] + +All sail was made at daylight on the 23d along the northern shore +of the Frozen Strait, which here continues about the same height +as that of Repulse Bay, and was at this time quite free from snow. +At nine A.M. the weather became squally with thick snow, which +rendered great caution necessary in running. There was something +in the appearance of this part of the coast which held out so +favourable a prospect of a direct passage to the northward, that I +determined more closely to examine it. Having beat up to the mouth +of an opening which, the nearer we approached, assumed a more and +more favourable appearance, we found that a body of ice occupied +the greater part of the channel, rendering it impracticable then +to enter it either with the ships or the boats. The only mode +left, therefore, of examining it without loss of time, was to +despatch a party equipped for travelling by land, to ascertain +enough of its extent and communications to enable me to decide as +to our farther progress. As, however, in their present situation, +I did not feel myself justified in leaving the ships, I requested +Captain Lyon to undertake this service. He was accompanied by Mr. +Bushnan and two seamen from each ship, and was furnished with a +tent, blankets, and four days' provisions. + +Captain Lyon, on his return, at the end of two days, reported that +he had landed on an island, which he called BUSHNAN'S ISLAND, had +then crossed a strait, to which afterward the name of HURD'S +CHANNEL was given, and landed on a steep point called by him CAPE +MONTAGU. From hence his party proceeded to a high and remarkable +hill called BROOKS'S BLUFF: following the strait to the northward, +they passed the remains of many Esquimaux habitations; and, though +their short journey had been unsatisfactory on account of the +badness of the weather, there was still sufficient to cause the +most lively interest, and give strong hopes of the existence of +some passage to the northeast of the small inlet they had +examined. + +At eight P.M., having shoaled the water from sixty to forty, and +then to thirty-two fathoms, and the weather still continuing +extremely thick, I suspected that the tide was taking us too close +to Passage Island, which was the nearest land when the fog came +on. A large space of open water was at this time not more than a +quarter of a mile distant from us in the opposite direction; but, +before the ships could be moved by warps or any other means within +our power, the tide was observed to be setting her directly +between the island and the little yellow-looking rock I have +before mentioned as lying on its eastern side. The anchors were +kept ready to drop in an instant should the ship drive into shoal +water; had we grounded, and the heavy masses of ice continued to +drive upon us, little less than the total destruction of the ship +was to be apprehended. The natural direction of the stream, +however, effected for us that which, hampered as we were, our own +exertions must have failed in accomplishing; the ship drove +through, at the distance of one hundred yards from the rock and +about one hundred and forty from Passage Island, having no less +than twelve fathoms; and soon after deepened the water to +thirty-five and forty, and then to no bottom with ninety. + +After this providential escape we lay-to within the island, in +order to drift to the northward and westward of it with the flood +tide, which runs stronger here than in any other part of the +Frozen Strait. The night was fine, but extremely dark, so that +after ten o'clock we could not distinguish where the land lay, and +the compasses could not be depended on. After an ineffectual +attempt to push through the ice towards the middle of the Strait, +in order to avoid the danger of being entangled among the numerous +islands lying off this shore, we were literally obliged to let the +ship take her chance, keeping the lead going and the anchors in +readiness. + +The Hecla having got clear of the ice the preceding evening, and +narrowly escaped an adventure similar to that which we had +experienced, rejoined us early in the morning, when Captain Lyon +returned to her to prepare a boat for his intended excursion. We +then stood in under all sail for the land, and at eleven A.M. +Captain Lyon left the Hecla, while the ships tacked off and on to +await his return. At nine P.M. Captain Lyon returned, acquainting +me that he had met with a small bay having no stream of tide, and +being at present clear of ice, he thought it might answer our +purpose, but he wished me to see it before the ships were taken +in. + +A boat from each ship being prepared, Captain Lyon and myself left +the cove at three P.M. to proceed on the proposed examination. We +separated at Point Cheyne, Captain Lyon having pointed out to me +the broad eastern channel from which the tide appeared to come, +and which if was my intention to examine, while he directed his +attention to the smaller passage he had described as leading to +the northward. It was agreed that we should return to the ships +with as little delay as was consistent with the object we had in +view, namely, to ascertain through which of the two channels it +was expedient or practicable to bring the ships. + +The breeze moderated soon after our landing, and a fine clear +night succeeded. At four in the morning Mr. Ross and myself +ascended the nearest hill, in the hope of being able to satisfy +ourselves respecting the existence of a passage for the ships in +at least one direction. I therefore directed the tents to be +struck, and everything to be in readiness for moving on our +return. On reaching the summit of the first hill, however, we +found, as is not unfrequently the case, that our view was but +little improved, and that no prospect could be obtained to the +northward without ascending the higher hill seen the preceding +evening, which we now found still several miles beyond us. While +preparing for this, I felt so much indisposed, that, being +apprehensive of laying myself up at a time when I could least +afford to do so, I determined to intrust the proposed service to +Mr. Ross, in whose zeal and ability to accomplish it I felt the +utmost confidence. Mr. Ross and his party accordingly set out for +the hill at six A.M. On his return in the evening Mr. Ross +reported that, having reached a commanding hill, he found himself +overlooking a sea of considerable extent to the eastward, and +washing the foot of the hill on which he stood. This sea appeared +to have some islands scattered about it, and was much encumbered +with ice. To the southeastward there seemed to be several openings +between islands, of which the land we stood then upon appeared to +form one, the sea sweeping round to the northward and westward, as +if to join the strait discovered by Captain Lyon. Mr. Ross +described the country over which he passed as much intersected by +lakes, some of them not less than two or three miles in length, +and having in their neighbourhood abundance of grass, moss, and +other fine feeding for the deer. The report of Mr. Ross, +accompanied by an eye-sketch made upon the spot, left no doubt of +the existence of an outlet to the eastward, and enabled me to +decide without hesitation upon attempting the passage of the +narrows with the ships, leaving our subsequent route to be +determined on according to the report of Captain Lyon. + +Piles of stones and the remains of Esquimaux habitations were +everywhere to be seen, and Mr. Ross met with their marks even on +the highest hills; but none appeared of recent date. The reindeer +were here very numerous. Mr. Ross saw above fifty of them in the +course of his walk, and several others were met with near the +tents. A large one was shot by one of the men, who struck the +animal; as he lay on the ground, a blow on the head with the butt +end of his piece, and, leaving him for dead, ran towards the tents +for a knife to bleed and skin him; when the deer very composedly +got on his legs, swam across a lake, and finally escaped. A small +fawn was the only one killed. Three black whales and a few seals +were playing about near the beach. + +Our people being somewhat fatigued with walking, were allowed to +rest till half past one in the morning of the 29th, when, it being +high water, the tents were struck and the boat loaded. I found +that Captain Lyon had returned on board the preceding evening, +having accomplished his object in a shorter time than was +expected. + +That no time might be lost in running the ships through the +narrows, I directed three boats from each to be prepared, for the +purpose of sounding every part of this intricate, and, as yet, +unknown passage, which I named after Captain THOMAS HURD, of the +royal navy, hydrographer to the admiralty. Giving to the officer +commanding each boat a certain portion to accomplish, I reserved +for my own examination the narrowest part of the channel; and at +thirty minutes past one P.M., as soon as the flood tide began to +slacken, we left the ships and continued our work till late at +night, when, having received the reports of the officers, and made +out a plan of the channel for each ship, I directed everything to +be in readiness for weighing at the last quarter of the ebb on the +following morning. Much as I lamented this delay, at a period of +the season when every moment was precious, it will not appear to +have been unnecessary, when it is considered that the channel +through which the ships were to be carried did not in some places +exceed a mile in breadth, with half of that space encumbered with +heavy masses of ice, and with an _ebb_ tide of six knots running +through it. + +At fifteen minutes past three P.M. on the 30th, a light air of +wind springing up from the eastward, we weighed, and, having +warped out by kedges till we had cleared the shoal-point of the +cove, made sail for the channel, and, with the assistance of the +boats, got the Fury into the fair set of the tide before it made +very strong to the eastward. At a quarter before seven, when in +the narrowest part, which is abreast of a bold headland on the +south shore, where the tide was now driving the ice along at the +rate of five or six knots, the wind came in a sudden gust from the +southwest, scarcely allowing us to reduce and trim our sails in +time to keep the ship off the north shore, which is not so safe as +the other. By carrying a heavy press of canvass, however, we +succeeded in forcing through the ice, but the Fury was twice +turned completely round by eddies, and her sails brought aback +against the helm; in consequence of which she gathered such fresh +sternway against several heavy floe-pieces, that I apprehended +some serious injury to the stern-post and rudder, if not to the +whole frame of the ship. The Hecla got through the narrows soon +after us; but Captain Lyon, wishing to bring away the flags and +staves set up as marks, had sent his little boat away for that +purpose during the continuance of the calm weather. When the +breeze suddenly came on she was still absent, and, being obliged +to wait for some time to pick her up, the Hecla was about dusk +separated several miles from us. + +I was sorry to perceive, on the morning of the 1st of September, +that the appearance of the ice was by no means favourable to our +object of sailing to the northward, along the Sturges Bourne +Islands; but at ten A.M., the edge being rather more slack, we +made all sail, with a very light air of southerly wind, and the +weather clear, warm, and pleasant. We were at noon in lat. 66° 03' +35", and in long. 83° 33' 15", in which situation a great deal of +land was in sight to the northward, though apparently much broken +in some places. From N.E. round to S.S.E. there was still nothing +to be seen but one wide sea uninterruptedly covered with ice as +far as the eye could reach. + +At forty-five minutes past one P.M. we had come to the end of the +clear water, and prepared to shorten sail, to await some +alteration in our favour. At this time the weather was so warm +that we had just exposed a thermometer to the sun to ascertain the +temperature of its rays, which could not have been less than 70° +or 80°, when a thick fog, which had for some hours been curling +over the hills of Vansittart Island, suddenly came on, creating so +immediate and extreme a change, that I do not remember to have +ever experienced a more chilling sensation. As we could no longer +see a hundred yards around us in any direction, nothing was to be +done but to make the ships fast to the largest piece of ice we +could find, which we accordingly did at two P.M., in one hundred +and fifty-eight fathoms. Just before dark the fog cleared away for +a few minutes, when, perceiving that the wind, which was now +increasing, was likely to drift us too near the islands, we took +advantage of the clear interval to run a mile farther from the +land for the night, where we again made fast to a large floe-piece +in two hundred fathoms. + +The wind, drawing round to the northward and westward, on the +morning of the 2d, increased to a fresh gale, which continued to +blow during the night, notwithstanding which, I was in hopes that +the immense size of the floe to which the ships were attached +would enable us to retain our station tolerably. It was +mortifying, therefore, to find, on the morning of the 2d, that we +had drifted more than I remember ever to have done before in the +same time under any circumstances. It was remarkable, also, that +we had not been set exactly to leeward, but past Baffin Island +towards two remarkable hills on Southampton Island, from which we +were at noon not more than seven or eight leagues distant. Thus, +after a laborious investigation which occupied one month, we had, +by a concurrence of unavoidable circumstances, returned to nearly +the same spot on which we had been on the 6th of August. To +consider what might have been effected in this interval, which +included the very best part of the navigable season, had we been +previously aware of the position and extent of the American +Continent about this meridian, is in itself certainly unavailing; +but it may serve to show the value of even the smallest +geographical information in seas where not an hour must be thrown +away or unprofitably employed. + +In the afternoon an attempt was made to move, for the mere sake, +it must be confessed, of moving and keeping the people on the +alert, rather than with the slightest prospect of gaining any +ground; but, by the time that we had laid out the hawsers, the +small hole of water that had appeared again closed, and we were +obliged to remain as before. + +At four A.M. on the 5th, we cast off and made sail for the land, +with a fresh breeze from the southeast. The ice was closely +packed, against the land near the passage I had intended to try, +and as it appeared slack to the eastward, I determined to run +between the southeast point of Baffin Island and the smaller +islands lying off it. The wind drawing more to the eastward as we +approached the channel, we had several tacks to make in getting +through, but carried a good depth of water on each side, though +its breadth does not exceed three quarters of a mile. As we now +advanced to the northward, we found less and less obstruction, the +main body of the ice having been carried to the southward and +eastward by the late gale, which had in so extraordinary a manner +drifted us in the same direction. This was one of the opportunities +I have before described as the most favourable that ever occur for +making progress in these seas. We had, therefore, a fine run during +the day along the east side of Sturges Bourne Islands; for, having +found the passages between them still choked with ice, we were +obliged to run to the northward with the hope of attaining our +present object, till it was time to look out for an anchorage. +Having first sent the boats to sound, we hauled into a small +bay, where we anchored at dusk in seventeen fathoms, good +holding-ground, though the bottom was so irregular that we had +from five to thirteen close upon our quarter. + +We had now once more approached a part of the coast, of which the +thorough and satisfactory examination could not possibly be +carried on in the ships, without incurring constant and, perhaps, +useless risk, and a certain and serious loss of time. I +determined, therefore, to proceed at once upon this service in two +boats, one from each ship. Having communicated my intentions to +Captain Lyon, and requested him to move the ships, when +practicable, into some more secure situation, I left the Fury, +accompanied by Mr. Ross and Mr. Sherer, taking with us our tents, +blankets, and stove, together with four days' provisions and fuel. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +A thick fog unfortunately coming on just before we left the ships, +prevented us from making choice of any part of the land which +might be the most likely to afford a passage to the northward and +westward. We could only, therefore, direct our course northerly, +with tolerable certainty, by a compass bearing previously taken on +board, and by occasionally obtaining an indistinct glimpse of the +land through the fog. Having rowed four miles, we came to a high +point, round which we turned rather to the westward, and then +landed a little beyond it. + +The tents were struck at thirty minutes past three A.M. on the 7th +and our course directed, up the inlet, the weather being calm and +tolerably clear. At three miles and a quarter we passed on our +starboard hand a point of land, which, from the bright colour of +the rocks, composed chiefly of feldspar, obtained the name of _Red +Point_. + +Opposite to Red Point was a small opening, which we next proposed +to examine. We had not, however, advanced a mile within the +entrance when the boats grounded, the water becoming more and more +shoal within. As it was plain that no passage could here be found +for the ships, which alone it was my present object to discover, I +did not choose to wait for the flowing of the tide to enable us +farther to explore this place, but determined to prosecute our +examination of the other parts of the coast without delay. There +were here a great number of stones placed in an upright position +in every conspicuous spot, many of them looking like men at a +distance. These marks are generally placed without regard to +regularity, but there were here several lines of them about fifty +yards in length, the stones being four or five yards apart, and +each having a smaller one placed on its top. Having rowed out of +the inlet, we landed at six P.M. in a little bay just outside of +the last night's sleeping-place, pitching the tents on a fine +shingly beach, which was the kind of ground we usually looked out +for towards the conclusion of the day, as affording the softest +bed, consistently with dryness, that nature supplies in this +country. Of such a convenience the men were not sorry to avail +themselves, having rowed above thirty miles since the morning. + +The boats were launched at daylight on the 8th, and we soon came +to a much more promising opening on the same shore, about a mile +wide at the entrance, and leading directly to the westward. After +rowing four miles in that direction, we arrived at the mouth of a +bay from three to five miles wide, out of which there did not +appear the least chance of discovering an outlet. As nothing, +however, but rowing round the bay would satisfactorily determine +this, we were proceeding to do so, when we observed in the +northern corner something like a low point overlapping the high +land at the back. Towards this spot we steered, as the readiest +way of completing the circuit of the bay, and half a mile short of +it landed to breakfast. + +In the mean time I sent Mr. Ross to one hill, and ascended another +myself, expecting to save the time and trouble of rowing into the +nook. I was not a little astonished to find, from my own and Mr. +Ross's observations, that there was on the other side of the point +a broad and apparently navigable channel, through which the tide +was setting to the northward, at the rate of three or four miles +an hour. I am thus minute in the discovery of this channel, which +afterward promised to be of no small importance, to show how +nearly such a place may be approached without the slightest +suspicion being entertained of its existence, and the consequent +necessity of _close_ examination wherever a passage is to be +sought for. + +We continued our examination, and I despatched Mr. Sherer to the +ships for a fresh supply of provisions. On his return on the 10th +we proceeded to the westward. In running along the coast with a +fresh and favourable breeze, we observed three persons standing on +a hill, and, as we continued our course, they followed us at full +speed along the rocks. Having sailed into a small sheltered bay, I +went up, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan, to meet them on the hills +above us. In sailing along the shore we had heard them call out +loudly to us, and observed them frequently lift something which +they held in their hands; but, on coming up to them, they remained +so perfectly mute and motionless, that, accustomed as we had been +to the noisy importunities of their more sophisticated brethren, +we could scarcely believe them to be Esquimaux. There was, +besides, a degree of lankness in the faces of the two men, the +very reverse of the plump, round, oily cheeks of those we had +before seen. Their countenances at the time impressed me with the +idea of Indian rather than of Esquimaux features; but this variety +of physiognomy we afterward found not to be uncommon among these +people. The men appeared about forty and twenty-two years of age, +and were accompanied by a good-looking and good-humoured boy of +nine or ten. They each held in their hand a sealskin case or +quiver, containing a bow and three or four arrows, with a set of +which they willingly parted, on being presented with a knife in +exchange. The first looks with which they received us betrayed a +mixture of stupidity and apprehension, but both wore off in a few +minutes on our making them understand that we wished to go to +their habitations. With this request they complied without +hesitation, tripping along before us for above two miles over very +rough ground, and crossing one or two considerable streams running +from a lake into the sea. This they performed with so much +quickness that we could with difficulty keep up with them, though +they good-naturedly stopped now and then till we overtook them. We +were met on our way by two women, from twenty to twenty-five years +of age, having each a child at her back; they too accompanied us +to their tent, which was situated on a high part of the coast +overlooking the sea. It consisted of a rude circular wall of loose +stones, from six to eight feet in diameter and three in height, in +the centre of which stood an upright pole, made of several pieces +of fir-wood lashed together by thongs, and serving as a support to +the deerskins that formed the top covering. Soon after our arrival +we were joined by a good-looking, modest girl of about eight, and +a boy five years old. Of these nine persons, which were all we now +saw, only the elder man and two of the children belonged to this +tent, the habitations of the others being a little more inland. +The faces of the women were round, plump, tattooed, and, in short, +completely Esquimaux. The _kayak_ or canoe belonging to this +establishment was carefully laid on the rocks close to the +seaside, with the paddle and the man's mittens in readiness beside +it. The timbers were entirely of wood, and covered, as usual, with +sealskin. Its length was nineteen feet seven inches, and its +extreme breadth two feet; it was raised a little at each end, and +the rim or gunwale of the circular hole in the middle was high, +and made of whalebone. A handsome sealskin was smoothly laid +within as a seat, and the whole was sewn and put together with +great neatness. The paddle was double, made of fir, and the ends +of the blades tipped with bone, to prevent splitting. + +The fireplace in the tent consisted of three rough stones +carelessly placed on end against one side, and they had several +pots of _lapis ollaris_ for culinary purposes. These people seemed +to us altogether more cleanly than any Esquimaux we had before +seen, both in their persons and in the interior of their tent, in +neither of which could we discover much of that rancid and pungent +smell which is in general so offensive to Europeans. One instance +of their cleanliness which now occurred, deserves, perhaps, to be +noticed, both because this is justly considered rather a rare +quality among Esquimaux, as well as to show in what way they do +sometimes exercise it. When leaving the tent to return to our +boats, I desired one of the seamen to tie the articles we had +purchased into a single bundle, for the convenience of carrying +them; but the elder of the two male Esquimaux, who watched the man +thus employed, would not permit it to be done without excluding a +pot, which, as he explained by wiping the lampblack off with one +of his fingers, would soil a clean sealskin jacket that formed +part of the bundle. + +Among the few domestic utensils we saw in the tent was the woman's +knife of the Greenlanders described by Crantz, and resembling, in +its semicircular shape, that used by shoemakers in England. The +most interesting article, however, was a kind of bowl, exactly +similar to that obtained by Captain Lyon from the natives of +Hudson's Strait, being hollowed out of the root of the musk-ox's +horn. As soon as I took the cup in my hand, the boy who was our +first companion, and had since been our constant attendant, +pronounced the word _oomingmuk_, thus affording an additional +confirmation to that obtained on the former voyage, of the musk-ox +being the animal described by the natives of the west coast of +Greenland as having occasionally, though rarely, been seen in that +country. + +As soon as the Esquimaux became a little more familiar with us, +they repeatedly asked for _sowik_ (iron), in answer to which we +gave them to understand that they must accompany us to our boats if +they wished to obtain any of this precious article. Accordingly, +the whole group set off with us on our return, the males keeping up +with us, and the women a short distance behind. The whole of the +children carried bundles of the branches of ground willow, which +we had just before seen them bring in for their own use, and +which they seemed to consider an article of barter that might be +acceptable to us. As we returned I noticed a quantity of the _ledum +palustre_, and, having plucked some of it, gave it to the boy to +carry; after which, though he very much disliked its smell, he +gathered every root of it that we came to, and deposited it at our +tents. This lad was uncommonly quick and clever in comprehending +our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree of good-humour and +docility which, on our short acquaintance, made him a great +favourite among us. + +We had hitherto been much pleased with our new acquaintance, +who were certainly a good-humoured, decent sort of people. We +therefore loaded them with presents, and endeavoured to amuse them +by showing them the manner of rowing our boats, which were hauled +up on the beach. While the men and children were occupied in +observing this, the women were no less busily employed, near the +tents, in pilfering and conveying into their boots some of our +cups, spoons, and other small articles, such as they could +conveniently secrete. This they accomplished with so much +dexterity, that no suspicion would have been excited of their +dishonesty had not Mr. Sherer fortunately missed a cup which was +required for supper. A general search being instituted in +consequence, and the cargo of the women's boots brought back to +our tents, I directed all our presents to be likewise taken from +the two offenders; and, dismissing the whole party with great +appearance of indignation, thus put an end, for the present, to +our communication with these people. + +We spent the two next days in exploring a creek which we called +CULGRUFF, and another on the opposite or eastern shore, which +received the name of NORMAN'S CREEK, and returned to the Hecla on +the evening of the 14th. + +I learned from Captain Lyon that the Hecla had just anchored at +her present station, the Fury still remaining at the former place, +into which the ice had lately come so thick as to require the +assistance of all hands from both ships to warp and tow the Hecla +out. Proceeding with a fresh boat's crew towards the Fury, which +we found close beset by thick and heavy ice, we succeeded, after +much difficulty, in hauling the boat through it, and arrived on +board at ten P.M. + +As soon as the tide would serve in the offing on the morning of +the 15th, we weighed, and, by means of warping and towing, in +which we were assisted by Captain Lyon's boats, succeeded in +joining the Hecla at her anchorage at three P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +Again leaving the ships on the 15th, we rowed before sunset +between six and seven miles along the high southwestern land, +passing what appeared a small harbour, with an island near the +middle of the entrance, and landed on a shingly beach near a small +bay or creek, extending three quarters of a mile to the W.N.W., +and then terminating in a deep, broad valley. We left the shore at +half past four A.M. on the 16th, and in an hour's sailing, with a +fresh northwest wind, came to some loose ice, through which we +continued to make our way till eleven o'clock, when it became so +close that a passage could no longer be found in any direction. +There was also so much young ice in every small interval between +the loose masses, that the boats were much cut about the +water-line in endeavouring to force through it. In order, +therefore, to avoid the risk of being altogether driven from the +shore, I determined to attempt a passage into the bay, which was +three quarters of a mile distant; and in this, after two hours' +labour, we at length succeeded. Finding that the ice was likely to +prove an obstacle of which we could not calculate the extent or +continuance, we began at once to reduce our daily expenditure of +provisions, in order to meet any contingency. + +Ascending the hill at daylight on the 17th, we were much +disappointed in finding that, though the ice continued to drive a +little to the S.E., it was even more compact than before, the +loose masses through which we had sailed the preceding day being +now closely set together. + +As soon as it was light enough on the 18th to make out the +situation of the ice, which had now drifted considerably to the +southward, we left the bay with a fresh and favourable breeze, and +at a quarter past eight A.M., after a quick run through "sailing +ice," landed to breakfast on the southeast point of this shore, +which afterward received the name CAPE MARTINEAU. Proceeding from +hence with a strong breeze and a considerable sea ahead, but the +flood tide still running slowly with us to the N.W., we rowed +several miles close along the shore, and entered at dusk a little +cove, where the tents were pitched and the boats moored for the +night. + +The night being cold, clear, and nearly calm, a quantity of +"bay-ice," half an inch in thickness, had, on the morning of the +19th, formed in the cove, and for some distance outside of it, +which again cut the boats' planks very much, besides occasioning +great loss of time in getting through it. This symptom of +approaching winter, which had now for the first time occurred to +us, rendered it expedient in future to select the most open +beaches for our resting-places at night. After tracing every bend +of the shore which here occurred, we landed at the point called by +Captain Lyon POINT FARHILL, and, ascending the hill to take +angles, obtained a view of Gore Bay, easily recognising every +other feature of the lands discovered by Captain Lyon. A mile or +two of coast was now all that remained to be examined, in order to +determine the connexion of Gore Bay with the rest of the land +recently explored. Proceeding, therefore, as soon as our +observations were finished, we soon after entered the bay, and in +the course of an hour had satisfied ourselves on this point. + +The ice remained closely packed on the 21st, as far as we could +see along shore, so that we were still detained in the same place. +Some snow which fell in the course of the preceding night, lightly +powdering the land, had entirely disappeared before evening, +except in places having a northern aspect, where it now +permanently remained for the winter. + +On the morning of the 22d the ice was not only as close as ever, +but had forced its way much higher up towards Gore Bay. A party +was therefore sent out to endeavour to procure game farther +inland; and another employed in gathering ground-willow, which was +here abundant and in good condition for fuel. Two bears, a female +and her cub, being probably attracted by the smell of our cooking, +came towards the tents upon the ice, but, upon hearing our voices, +set off in the opposite direction. A good deal of snow fell in +partial showers in the course of the day; it was nearly of that +fine kind which usually falls during the winter of these regions, +but we had flake snow and even light rain some days after this. +The snow, however, now remained undissolved upon the land in all +situations. Our hunting party returned late in the evening without +success, having merely seen a number of reindeer, which the want +of cover prevented their approaching. Seven days out of the nine +for which we were victualled having now elapsed, a party was +selected for walking over to the ships on the following day, +should the ice still continue in its present state. + +The ice continuing in the same state, we commenced our work at +break of day on the 24th, and in three journeys had carried all +the lighter part of our baggage over land by eleven o'clock. All +hands then returned for the two boats, across the gunwales of +which the masts and oars were lashed for lifting them, the ground +not allowing us to drag them except for a short space here and +there. By half past one the first boat had been carried over, and, +by the unwearied exertions of the officers and men, we had the +satisfaction of launching the second before four o'clock, the +distance being a mile and a half, and chiefly over rocky and +uneven ground. As soon as we had dined, the boats were reloaded; +and at five o'clock we left the shore. A quantity of ice was still +aground upon the shoals and islets off Cape Martineau, through +which, however, we fortunately found a passage before dark, when, +having cleared every obstacle, we sailed in an open sea and with a +fresh breeze to the northward. Keeping close along the shore to +avoid missing the ships in the dark, our first musket was +immediately answered by a blue-light; and, being guided by the +lights now shown by the ships, we arrived at nine P.M., where we +found that our late detention had excited some alarm for our +safety. + +On the 1st of October some small rain fell, which, immediately +freezing, made the decks and ropes as smooth and slippery as if +coated with glass; the thermometer had for several days past +permanently fallen below the freezing point, and sometimes as low +as 20° at night; which change, together with the altered +appearance of the land, and the rapid formation of young ice near +the shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach of winter. +The commencement of this dreary season in these regions may, +indeed, be fairly dated from the time when the earth no longer +receives and radiates heat enough to melt the snow which falls +upon it. When the land is once covered with this substance, so +little calculated to favour the absorption of heat, the frigorific +process seems to be carried on with increased vigour, defining +very clearly the change from summer to winter, with little or no +immediate interval to which the name of autumn can be distinctly +assigned. + +We passed Cape Edwards on the 6th; but on the 8th the formation of +young ice upon the surface of the water began most decidedly to +put a stop to the navigation of these seas, and warned us that the +season of active operations was nearly at an end. + +When to the ordinary difficulties which the navigation of the +Polar Seas presents were superadded the disadvantages of a +temperature at or near _zero_, its necessary concomitant the young +ice, and twelve hours of darkness daily, it was impossible any +longer to entertain a doubt of the expediency of immediately +placing the ships in the best security that could be found for +them during the winter, rather than run the risk of being +permanently detached from the land by an endeavour to regain the +continent. We were in hopes of receiving effectual shelter from +the numerous grounded masses, but could only find berths within +one of them in five to six fathoms water. We now, for the first +time, _walked_ on board the ships; and, before night, had them +moved into their places, by sawing a canal for two or three +hundred yards through the ice. The average thickness of the new +floe was already three inches and a quarter; but being in some +places much less, several officers and men fell in, and, from the +difficulty of getting a firm place to rest on, narrowly escaped a +more serious inconvenience than a thorough wetting. The whole +sheet of ice, even in those parts which easily bore a man's +weight, had a waving motion under the feet, like that of leather +or any other tough flexible substance set afloat, a property which +is, I believe, peculiar to salt-water ice. + +In reviewing the events of this our first season of navigation, and +considering what progress we had made towards the accomplishment of +our main object, it was impossible, however trifling that progress +might appear upon the chart, not to experience considerable +satisfaction. Small as our actual advance had been towards +Behring's Strait, the extent of coast newly discovered and minutely +explored in pursuit of our object, in the course of the last eight +weeks, amounted to more than two hundred leagues, nearly half of +which belonged to the Continent of North America. This service, +notwithstanding our constant exposure to the risks which intricate, +shoal, and unknown channels, a sea loaded with ice, and a rapid +tide concurred in presenting, had providentially been effected +without injury to the ships, or suffering to the officers and men; +and we had now once more met with tolerable security for the +season. Above all, however, I derived the most sincere satisfaction +from a conviction of having left no part of the coast from Repulse +Bay eastward in a state of doubt as to its connexion with the +continent. And as the mainland now in sight from the hills extended +no farther to the eastward than about a N.N.E. bearing, we ventured +to indulge a sanguine hope of our being very near the northeastern +boundary of America, and that the early part of the next season +would find us employing our best efforts in pushing along its +northern shores. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +Our operations at sea being now at an end for the season, my chief +attention was directed to the security of the ships, and to the +various internal arrangements which experience suggested as +necessary for the preservation of cleanliness, health, and comfort +during the winter, as well as for the economical expenditure of +provisions, fuel, and other stores. + +The situation which circumstances obliged us to put up with for +our winter-quarters was by no means as secure as could have been +wished. The bay, though as fine a roadstead as could have been +desired if situated in a more temperate climate, was still only a +roadstead; and, being entirely open to the south, was exposed to a +pressure from the ice in that direction, unless the solid floe now +about to be formed round the ships should shortly become +sufficient to guard them from external injury. There was some +reason, however, to doubt the efficacy of this protection; for, as +the spring-tides approached, the numerous grounded masses around +the shores of the bay began to evince symptoms of instability, one +or two having fallen over, and others turned round; so that these +masses might be looked upon rather as dangerous neighbours, likely +to create a premature disruption of the ice, than as the means of +security, which, in seas not subject to any considerable rise of +tide, they had so often proved to us on former occasions. To +these circumstances was added our uncertainty whether very high +tides during the winter might not crack the ice, thereby exposing +the ships to the double danger of being "nipped" about their +water-line, and of being drifted out of the bay by northerly gales. +That which was, however, perhaps the most to be apprehended, was +the possibility of the ships being forced into shoal water, without +detaching themselves from the mass of ice cemented to their bends, +the weight of which, hanging upon the sides of a ship left aground +by the tide, could not but produce very serious injury. + +About the time of our arrival in the bay, when the thermometer had +fallen nearly to _zero_, the condensation of vapour upon the beams +of the lower deck, and in the cabins near the hatchways, commenced +just as it had done at a similar temperature before. To remedy +this evil, no time was lost in lighting a fire in the warming-stove +upon the orlop-deck, everything being previously moved from its +neighbourhood that was likely to create danger. The iron tanks in +the main hatchway were laid bare on the top, and the interstices +between them filled with sand, to form a secure platform in front +of the fire; and the sailroom, bulkheads, and stancheons covered +with sheet copper. Four steady men, of whom one was a petty +officer, were appointed to attend the fire in regular watches, +being made responsible for the due expenditure of the fuel, and +for the safety of everything about the stove. They had likewise +particular charge of the fire-engine, buckets, and two tanks of +water, all of which were kept in the hatchway in constant readiness +in case of accidents. In addition to these precautions, some +general regulations were established for stationing the officers +and men in the event of fire; and a hole was directed to be kept +open in the ice alongside each ship, to ensure at all times a +sufficient supply of water. In twelve hours after lighting the +stove not a drop of moisture remained. + +The regulations for the maintenance of due cleanliness among the +ships' companies were principally the same as those established on +the preceding voyage. As a source of rational amusement to the +men, soon after our arrival I proposed to Captain Lyon and the +officers of both ships once more to set on foot a series of +theatrical entertainments, from which so much benefit in this way +had, on a former occasion, been derived. This proposal was +immediately and unanimously acquiesced in; Captain Lyon obligingly +undertook to be our, manager, and, some preparation having been +made for this purpose previous to leaving England, everything was +soon arranged for performing a play on board the Fury once a +fortnight. + +To furnish rational and useful occupation to the men on the other +evenings, a school was also established for the instruction of +such of the men as were willing to take advantage of this +opportunity of learning to read and write, or of improving in +those acquirements. + +While these internal arrangements were making, the interests of +science were not neglected. A day or two after our arrival, Mr. +Fisher and myself selected a spot for the portable observatory, +which was immediately erected for the purpose of making magnetic +observations; and, as soon as the carpenters could be spared from +the necessary duties of the ships, a house was built for the +reception of the instruments requisite in conducting the other +observations and experiments. + +Soon after our arrival here, Captain Lyon expressed a wish that +his officers and men, with himself, should attend divine service +on board the Fury during the continuance of the ships in +winter-quarters. This arrangement was accordingly made, and we +formed one congregation for the rest of the winter. Our lower deck +afforded abundance of accommodation in this respect; some psalm +tunes, which had been purposely set upon an organ, were played at +the proper intervals of the service, and our little church formed +a pleasing and interesting scene to such as are disposed to be +interested by scenes of this nature. + +I have before mentioned the myriads of small shrimps (_cancer +nugax_) which for some weeks past had been observed near the +surface of the sea. These insects were found to be still as +numerous as ever in any hole we made in the ice; and such was the +extreme avidity with which they immediately seized upon any meat +put overboard, to thaw or soak for the sake of freshness, that +Captain Lyon to-day sent me a goose to look at, belonging to the +officers of the Hecla, that had been thus deposited within their +reach only eight and forty hours, and from which they had eaten +every ounce of meat, leaving only a skeleton most delicately +cleaned. Our men had before remarked that their meat suffered +unusual loss of substance by soaking, but did not know to what +cause to attribute the deficiency. We took advantage, however, of +the hunger of these depredators to procure complete skeletons of +small animals, for preservation as anatomical specimens, enclosing +them in a net or bag with holes, to which the shrimps could have +access, but which prevented the loss of any of the limbs, should +the cartilage of the joints be eaten. For want of this latter +precaution some specimens were at first rendered imperfect. + +A pair of snow-boots were now issued _gratis_ to each individual +in the expedition, being part of a stock of extra warm clothing +liberally furnished by government, to be supplied to the officers +and men at my discretion, as occasion should require. These boots +were made of strong drab cloth, with thick soles of cork, the +slowly conducting property of which substance, together with their +large size, allowing a free circulation to the blood, afforded the +utmost comfort that could be desired. Boots or shoes of _leather_ +never retain the warmth long, under circumstances of very severe +exposure. + +The wind veering to the S.E. on the 24th and 25th, the thermometer +gradually rose to +23°. I may possibly incur the charge of +affectation in stating that this temperature was much too high to +be agreeable to us; but it is nevertheless the fact, that +everybody felt and complained of the change. We had often before +remarked, that considerable alterations in the temperature of the +atmosphere are as sensibly felt by the human frame at a very low +part of the scale, as in the higher. The difference consists only +in this, that a change from -40° upward to about _zero_ is usually +a very welcome one, while from _zero_ to the freezing point, as in +the instance just alluded to, it becomes, to persons in our +situation, rather an inconvenience than otherwise. This may be +more readily imagined by considering that our clothing, bedding, +fires, and other precautions against the severity of the climate +having been once adapted to a low degree of cold, an increase of +temperature renders them oppressive and inconvenient; while any +reduction (of the first two, at least) is impracticable with +safety. To this must be added, that at this temperature the snow +becomes too soft for convenient walking, and the accumulation of +ice in the crevices and linings of the officers' cabins is +converted into a source of extreme annoyance, which, while it +continues solid, is never experienced. It is true that these +inconveniences occur in a much greater degree in the spring; but +being then hailed as the harbingers of the return of permanent +warmth, it is easy to obviate some, and would be hard to complain +of any of them. + +_Nov. 6._--For several days about this period the weather +continued remarkably mild, the thermometer generally rising as +high as from +20° to +28° in the course of the day, from the 6th +to the 16th. Most of our necessary arrangements for the security +of the ships and stores during the winter being now completed, the +people were employed in what they called "rigging the theatre," +and on the evening of the 9th the officers performed the play of +the "Rivals," to the infinite amusement of both ships' companies. + +On the 1st of December there was a space of many miles in which +none of the "old ice" was visible. The sea was here for the most +part covered with a very thin sheet of "young" ice, probably the +formation of a single day, since the westerly wind had driven the +'floes' off the land. The whole of this was in motion with the +tide, which, breaking the thin floes, left several spaces of clear +water. It was observable that, though a considerable frost-smoke +arose from the young ice, it was not so dense as that from the +clear water, immediately over every pool of which a little thick +cloud floated, corresponding as well in size as in situation with +the pond from whence it issued. A number of dovekies were swimming +about the point; and it being desirable, if possible, to obtain +some of them for the sake of ascertaining their plumage at this +season, we hauled the small boat over and launched her. Mr. Ross +succeeded in killing one of the birds, which was preserved as a +specimen, but it was with great difficulty that the boat avoided +being carried away from the shore by the young ice. I was, on this +account, afraid of repeating the attempt during the rest of the +winter. One grouse was seen on shore; it appeared entirely white, +except having its tail black near the tip. + +I was this day under the necessity of closing in my stern +dead-lights, and fixing cork shutters between the double +window-frames of my cabin, the temperature having lately fallen +rather low at night; in consequence of which, one of the +chronometers had stopped on the 26th of November. We had before +this time banked the snow up against the sides; but it was now +thrown higher, and its thickness at the bottom increased to about +four feet. Besides this, a bed of snow, three feet deep, was +subsequently laid on the deck over my cabin, and also on the +forecastle over the sick-bay, to assist in retaining the warmth in +those parts of the ship; an office which it seemed to perform very +effectually. It was impossible, however, as the cold increased, to +keep up a tolerably comfortable temperature in the cabin if the +fire was suffered to go out for several hours: for instance, the +night after the above arrangements had been made, the fire was out +for only six hours; and the consequence was, that the thermometer +fell to 27°, and could be got no higher on the following day, in +the after part of the cabin, though only nine feet from the stove, +than 33°. This was, indeed, a most inclement day, the temperature +of the atmosphere having for the first time fallen to -27°, +accompanied by a fresh wind from the northward and westward. + +A great squeezing of the young floes took place at the S.E. point +of the island on the 12th. The noise it makes when heard at a +distance very much resembles that of a heavy wagon labouring over +a deep gravelly road; but, when a nearer approach is made, it is +more like the growling of wild animals, for which it was in one or +two instances mistaken. It was, however, rather useful than +otherwise, to encourage the belief that bears were abroad, as, +without some such idea, people are apt to become careless about +going armed. + +The thermometer rising to -5° in the course of the 17th, the +weather appeared warm to our feelings. It proved favourable also +for another play, which had been fixed for this night, and the +"Poor Gentleman" was performed by the officers in so admirable and +feeling a manner as to excite uncommon interest among the men, and +to convince me more than ever of the utility of our theatrical +amusements. The 18th was a remarkably clear day, without any of +that cloudiness which usually hung about the southern horizon. The +sun was therefore clearly visible at noon, when such was its oval +shape that its horizontal diameter exceeded the vertical by 4' +07". We had light in the cabin for reading and writing for three +hours and a quarter without candles, and about five hours for +convenient walking. + +On the evening of the 24th, being Christmas eve, the ships' +companies were amused by the officers performing the two farces of +"A Roland for an Oliver," and the "Mayor of Garratt." On Christmas +day, divine service on board the Fury was attended by the officers +and crews of both ships. A certain increase was also made in the +allowance of provisions, to enable the people to partake of +Christmas festivities to the utmost extent which our situation and +means would allow; and the day was marked by the most cheerful +hilarity, accompanied by the utmost regularity and good order. +Among the luxuries which our Christmas dinner afforded was that of +a joint of English roast beef, of which a few quarters had been +preserved for such occasions by rubbing the outside with salt, and +hanging it on deck covered with canvass. The low latitude in which +our last summer's navigation was performed would have rendered its +preservation doubtful without the salt. + +On the arrival of the last day of the year, it was impossible not +to experience very high gratification in observing the excellent +health and spirits enjoyed by almost every officer and man in both +ships. The only invalid in the expedition was Reid, our +carpenter's mate, and even he was at this period so much improved, +that very sanguine hopes were entertained of his continued +amendment. In consequence of the effectual manner in which the men +were clothed, particularly about the feet, not a single frostbite +had occurred that required medical assistance even for a day; and, +what was more important to us, not a scorbutic symptom had +appeared. + +To increase our ordinary issue of anti-scorbutics, liberal as it +already was, we had from the commencement of the winter adopted a +regular system of growing mustard and cress, which the superior +warmth of the ships now enabled us to do on a larger scale than +before. Each mess, both of the officers and ships' company, was +for this purpose furnished with a shallow box filled with mould, +in which a crop could generally be raised in from eight to ten +days. The quantity thus procured on board the Fury now amounted to +about fifty pounds' weight, and before the arrival of spring to +nearly one hundred pounds; and, trifling as such a supply may +appear to those who are in the habit of being more abundantly +furnished, it will not be considered to have been without its use, +when it is remembered how complete a specific for the scurvy +_fresh_ vegetable substance has invariably proved. + +With respect to the occupations which engaged our time, during +this season of unavoidable inactivity, I can add little or nothing +to my former account of the manner in which we passed the winter +at Melville Island; for the two situations were so nearly similar, +and our resources necessarily so limited in this way, that it was +not easy to produce much variety in the employment of them. It may +be imagined, and was, indeed, anticipated by ourselves, that want +of novelty was on the present occasion a disadvantage likely to +render our confinement more tedious than before; but this by no +means appeared to be the case: for the men, sufficient employment +may always be found to prevent the possibility of their being +idle; and I have already noticed the auxiliaries to which we had +recourse to assist in promoting this end; while most officers have +resources within themselves, of which scarcely any situation or +circumstances can divest them. What with reading, writing, making +and calculating observations, observing the various natural +phenomena, and taking the exercise necessary to preserve our +health, nobody, I believe, ever felt any symptoms of _ennui_ +during our continuance in winter-quarters. + +Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratification to +several among us, I may mention the musical parties we were +enabled to muster, and which assembled on stated evenings +throughout the winter, alternately in Captain Lyon's cabin and my +own. More skilful amateurs in music might well have smiled at +these our humble concerts; but it will not incline them to think +less of the science they admire, to be assured that, in these +remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished +us with the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was +capable of affording: for, independently of the mere gratification +afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, scarcely a person +in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not +more or less connected with "his far distant home." + +With our time thus occupied, our comforts so abundant, and the +prospect to seaward so enlivening, it would, indeed, have been our +own faults had we felt anything but enjoyment in our present +state, and the most lively hopes and expectations for the future. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +The first day of the new year was a very severe one in the open +air, the thermometer being down to -22°, and the wind blowing +strong from the northwest. The effect of a breeze upon the +feelings is well known to every person, even in comparatively +temperate climates, but at low temperatures it becomes painful and +almost insupportable. Thus, with the thermometer at -55°, and no +wind stirring, the hands may remain uncovered for ten minutes or a +quarter of an hour without inconvenience; while, with a fresh +breeze, and the thermometer nearly as high as _zero_, few people +can keep them exposed so long without considerable pain. + +About noon on the 2d, Captain Lyon observed a considerable body of +snow taken up by the wind and whirled round in a spiral form like +that of a water-spout, though with us the breeze was quite light +at the time. It increased gradually in size till lost behind the +southeast point. As a proof of the difficulty which the hares must +find in obtaining subsistence during the winter, these animals +were at this time in the habit of coming alongside the ships upon +the ice to pick up what they could from our rubbish-heaps. A fox +or two still entered the traps occasionally, and our gentlemen +informed me that they had always been most successful in catching +them after a southerly wind, which they attributed, with great +probability, to the smell of the ships being thus more extensively +communicated over the island. One or two of these poor creatures +had been found in the traps with their tongues almost bitten in +two. The traps made use of for catching these beautiful little +animals were formed of a small cask, having a sliding door like +that of a common mouse-trap, and were baited with oiled meat or +blubber. The whole number caught during the winter was between +eighty and ninety, of which more than seventy were taken before +the end of December. In a single trap of Captain Lyon's, no less +than fifteen were caught in the course of four hours, on the night +of the 25th of November; and the people engaged in watching the +trap remarked, that no sooner had one of these animals been taken +out, and they themselves retired a few yards, than another entered +it. So stupid, indeed, are they in this respect, that, in several +instances, those which had escaped from the ships entered, and +were recaught in the same traps as before. + +_Jan. 14._--An ermine, of which the tracks had been traced the +preceding day up the Hecla's stern, and even on board her, Captain +Lyon to-day succeeded in catching in a trap. This beautiful +creature was entirely white, except a black brush to its tail, and +a slight tinge of the usual sulphur or straw colour on the root of +the tail, and also on the fore part of the fore legs. The little +animal being put into a convenient cage, seemed soon to feel +himself perfectly at home, eating, drinking, and sleeping +without any apparent apprehension, but evincing a very decided +determination to resent a too near approach to the wires of his new +habitation. + +_Jan. 18._--At a late hour this evening the stovepipe of my cabin +caught fire, which gave us a momentary alarm, but, buckets and +water being at hand, it was soon extinguished. This accident was +occasioned by a quantity of soot collected in the stovepipe, and +yet was not altogether to be attributed to neglect in the persons +appointed to sweep the whole of them twice a week. As the cause of +it is such as is not likely to be anticipated by persons living in +temperate climates, and as the knowledge of it may be serviceable +to somebody destined for a cold one, I shall here explain it. The +smoke of coals contains a certain quantity of water in the state +of vapour. This, in temperate climates, and, indeed, till the +thermometer falls to about 10° below _zero_, is carried up the +chimney and principally diffused in the atmosphere. When the cold +becomes more intense, however, this is no longer the case; for the +vapour is then condensed into water before it can escape from the +stovepipes, within which a mass of ice is, in consequence, very +speedily formed.[*] The vapour thus arrested must necessarily also +detain a quantity of soot, which, being subsequently enclosed in +the ice as the latter accumulates, the brush generally used to +clean the pipes cannot bring it away. By any occasional increase +of temperature, either in the external air or in the fire below, +the ice sometimes thaws, pouring down a stream of water into the +fire, and bringing with it a most pungent and oppressive smell of +soot. For these reasons, as well as to avoid accidents of the +nature above alluded to, it is necessary to sweep the pipes much +more frequently than in warmer climates, and even occasionally to +thaw the ice out of them by a fire made expressly for the purpose. + +[Footnote: When the weather was not very severely cold, and a part +of the vapour escaped from the pipe of the galley-fire, the +fore-rigging was always coated with ice, from the smoke passing by +it.] + +On the morning of the 1st of February it was reported to me that a +number of strange people were seen to the westward, coming towards +the ships over the ice. On directing a glass towards them we found +them to be Esquimaux, and also discovered some appearance of huts +on shore, at the distance of two miles from the ships, in the same +direction. I immediately set out, accompanied by Captain Lyon, an +officer from each ship, and two of the men, to meet the natives, +who, to the number of five-and-twenty, were drawn up in a line +abreast, and still advanced slowly towards us. As we approached +nearer they stood still, remaining, as before, in a compact line, +from which they did not move for some time after we reached them. +Nothing could exceed their quiet and orderly behaviour on this +occasion, which presented a very striking contrast with the noisy +demeanour of the natives of Hudson's Strait. They appeared at a +distance to have arms in their hands; but what we had taken for +bows or spears proved to be only a few blades of whalebone, which +they had brought either as a peace-offering or for barter, and +which we immediately purchased for a few small nails and beads. +Some of the women, of whom there were three or four, as well as +two children, in this party, having handsome clothes on which +attracted our attention, they began, to our utter astonishment and +consternation, to strip, though the thermometer stood at 23° below +zero. We soon found, however, that there was nothing so dreadful +in this as we at first imagined, every individual among them +having on a complete double suit. The whole were of deerskin, and +looked both clean and comfortable. + +However quietly the Esquimaux had awaited our approach, and still +continued to conduct themselves, there was as little apprehension +or distrust visible in their countenances or manner as it was +possible for one strange set of persons to evince on meeting +another. As soon, therefore, as we had bought all that they had to +sell, and made them a number of valuable presents, we expressed by +signs our wish to accompany them to their huts, with which they +willingly complied, and we immediately set out together. On our +way the Esquimaux were much amused by our dogs, especially by a +large one of the Newfoundland breed, that had been taught to fetch +and carry; a qualification which seemed to excite unbounded +astonishment; and the children could scarce contain themselves for +joy when Captain Lyon gave them a stick to throw for the dog to +bring back to them. A child of five or six years old, thus amusing +itself, on such a day and in such a climate, formed by no means +the least characteristic figure of our motley group. An old and +infirm man, supported by a stick, which, indeed, he much needed, +was soon left behind us, his companions seeming to take no notice +of his infirmities, and leaving him without reluctance or apology +to find his way home at his own pace. When we had approached the +huts within a few hundred yards, three of the Esquimaux went on +before us, having previously explained that they were going to +confine their dogs, lest, being frightened at our coming, they +should run away. + +When it is remembered that these habitations were fully within +sight of the ships, and how many eyes were continually on the +look-out among us for anything that could afford variety or +interest in our present situation, our surprise may in some degree +be imagined at finding an establishment of five huts, with canoes, +sledges, dogs, and above sixty men, women, and children, as +regularly and, to all appearance, as permanently fixed as if they +had occupied the same spot for the whole winter. If the first view +of the exterior of this little village was such as to create +astonishment, that feeling was in no small degree heightened, on +accepting the invitation soon given us to enter these extraordinary +houses, in the construction of which we observed that not a single +material was used but snow and ice. After creeping through two +low passages, having each its arched doorway, we came to a small +circular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. +From this three doorways, also arched, and of larger dimensions +than the outer ones, led into as many inhabited apartments, one on +each side, and the other facing us as we entered. The interior of +these presented a scene no less novel than interesting. The women +were seated on the beds at the sides of the huts, each having her +little fireplace or lamp with all her domestic utensils about her; +the children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs, except the +female ones, which were indulged with a part of the beds, slunk out +past us in dismay. The construction of this inhabited part of the +huts was similar to that of the outer apartment, being a dome +formed by separate blocks of snow, laid with great regularity and +no small art, each being cut into the shape requisite to form a +substantial arch, from seven to eight feet high in the centre, and +having no support whatever but what this principle of building +supplied. I shall not here farther describe the peculiarities +of these curious edifices, remarking only that a cheerful and +sufficient light was admitted to them by a circular window of ice +neatly fitted into the roof of each apartment. + +We found our new acquaintance as desirous of pleasing us as we +were ready to be pleased; so that we were soon on good terms with +them all. While we were engaged in examining every part of their +huts, their whole behaviour was in the highest degree orderly, +respectful, and good-humoured. They eagerly received the various +articles that were given them, either in exchange for their own +commodities or as presents, but on no occasion importuned us for +anything, nor did the well-known sound of "pilletay" once escape +from them. We had also great reason to believe that these people +possessed, in no ordinary degree, the quality of honesty; a +quality the more desirable to us, as we had on shore, besides the +house and observatory, all our boats and other articles, which, +had they been disposed to pilfer, it would have required all our +vigilance to guard. If we dropped a glove or a handkerchief +without knowing it, they would immediately direct our attention to +it by pointing; and if the owner had left the hut before they +discovered it, would run out after him to return it. Numberless +instances of a similar kind occurred in the course of our +subsequent communication with them, some of which I shall +hereafter have an opportunity of relating. + +After remaining with them a couple of hours, and proposing to +spend the following day among them, we set out on our return to +the ships. Being desirous of trying their disposition to part with +their children, I proposed to buy a fine lad, named _Toolooak_, +for the very valuable consideration of a handsome butcher's knife. +His father, apparently understanding our meaning, joyfully +accepted the knife, and the boy ran into the hut to fetch his +mittens, which seemed to be all that he cared for in leaving his +home. He then set off with us in high spirits, and at first +assisted in drawing a sledge we had purchased to carry our things; +but as he began, by our additional signs, more clearly to +comprehend our true meaning, he gradually relaxed in his zeal to +accompany our party, and, being afterward overtaken by a number of +his companions, he took an opportunity to slink off among some +hummocks of ice, so that, when we arrived on board, Toolooak was +missing. + +On our reaching the ships, these people expressed much less +surprise and curiosity than might naturally have been expected on +their first visit, which may, perhaps, in some measure, be +attributed to their being in reality a less noisy kind of people +than most of the Esquimaux to whom we had before been accustomed. +Quiet and orderly, however, as they were disposed to be, this +first visit showed them to be as fond of merriment as their +countrymen are usually considered; for, on Captain Lyon's ordering +his fiddler up on the Hecla's deck, they danced with the men for +an hour, and then returned in high glee and good-humour to their +huts. + +On our return on board we were informed that, during our absence +in the morning, a flock of thirteen wolves, the first yet seen, +crossed the ice in the bay from the direction of the huts, and +passed near the ships. These animals, as we afterward learned, had +accompanied or closely followed the Esquimaux on their journey to +the island the preceding day, and they proved to us the most +troublesome part of their _suite_. They so much resemble the +Esquimaux dogs, that, had it not been for some doubt among the +officers who had seen them whether they were so or not, and the +consequent fear of doing these poor people an irreparable injury, +we might have killed most of them the same evening, for they came +boldly to look for food within a few yards of the Fury, and +remained there for some time. + +In order to prevent our people from occasioning the Esquimaux any +disturbance or apprehension, I directed that only six from each +ship should be allowed to visit the huts at one time, and that +they should then be always accompanied by an officer. A strict +prohibition was, at the same time, issued against the smallest +article of the ships' stores being given to the people without +permission, on pain of severe punishment. + +At an early hour on the 2d we set out, with a large party, on our +proposed excursion to the huts. The natives received us with great +cordiality, though with somewhat more noisy expressions of +pleasure than before; and we soon began a more minute examination +of their habitations and furniture, in which they readily assisted +us, except that they always sat very closely on the deerskins +which composed their beds, under which were stowed such articles +as they were least willing or able to dispose of. They sold, +however, a great number of their things without reluctance; and it +was, indeed, astonishing to see with what eagerness they would, +for the mere sake of change and variety, barter some of their most +indispensable articles for the veriest trifles in our possession. +For instance, a single sewing-needle, of which they possessed +abundance not much inferior to our own, procured from them a +large, well-sharpened _p=anna_, or man's knife, made of stout +iron, for which, in point of absolute utility, a hundred needles +would not have been a fair equivalent. Various other instances of +the same kind occurred, by which, indeed, they were not ultimately +losers, though they certainly would have been so had our +intercourse ended here. + +We dined in the huts, and the Esquimaux gladly partook of our +biscuit and meat, and even of a little wine, which, however, they +did not relish. We returned on board about sunset, much gratified +with the interesting day we had passed; having laid the foundation +of that perfect confidence and good understanding which, with +little or no interruption, afterward subsisted between us and our +new acquaintance. + +On the morning of the 3d, a number of these people were observed +to set off over the ice to the southwest, to bring, as we +conjectured, either some more of their people or of their property +from their last place of abode. On walking out to the huts after +divine service, however, we found they had been seal-catching, and +had succeeded in taking four. The very small quantity of food +which they had in their huts at first coming, consisting of a +little venison, and the flesh and blubber of the whale and seal, +induced us to suppose they had left some of their provision +behind, and that they would return for it as occasion demanded. +But we now found that even at this rigorous season they were +entirely dependant in this way on their daily exertions, and they +had only removed into their present quarters on account of the +failure of their summer's store, and of the greater facility of +obtaining seals at Winter Island than where the sea was more +closely and continually frozen. + +On the 4th a number of Esquimaux came to the ships, and we took +the opportunity of getting them to go through the process of +building a snow hut for our amusement and information. From the +quickness with which they completed this, our surprise at the +sudden appearance of their village ceased; as we now saw that two +or three hours would be more than sufficient to complete the whole +establishment just as we at first found it. They were then taken +on board, and derived great amusement from our organ, and from +anything in the shape of music, singing, or dancing, of all which +they are remarkably fond. Nor can I here omit a striking instance +of the honesty of these people which occurred to-day. Some of the +gentlemen of the Hecla had purchased two of their dogs, which had +the preceding evening made their escape and returned to the huts. +After the departure of the Esquimaux to-day, we were surprised to +find that they had left two dogs carefully tied up on board the +Fury, which, on inquiry, proved to be the animals in question, and +which had been thus faithfully restored to their rightful owners. + +On the 5th a number of the natives came on board, according to +promise, to rebuild the hut in a more substantial manner, and to +put a plate of ice into the roof, as a window, which they did with +great quickness as well as care, several of the women cheerfully +assisting in the labour. The men seemed to take no small pride in +showing in how expeditious and workmanlike a manner they could +perform this; and the hut, with its outer passage, was soon +completed. From this time they were in the constant habit of +coming freely to the ships; and such as it was not always +convenient to admit usually found very profitable employment in +examining the heaps of ashes, sand, and other rubbish on the +outside, where their trouble was well repaid by picking up small +scraps of tin or iron. All that they found in this manner we +allowed them to consider as their lawful property; but were very +particular in preventing their handling anything on board without +permission. + +The wolves had now begun to do us some damage; for not even the +sails that were fastened round the house and observatory could +escape their ravenous fangs, and they had thus, in the course of a +single night, much injured two of our studding-sails. We set traps +for them on the ice, and also large shark-hooks, secured with +chains and baited with meat; but the former they entered and +destroyed, and the latter was always found broken or bent, without +securing the depredators. These animals were indeed so hungry and +fearless as to take away some of the Esquimaux dogs in a +snow-house near the Hecla's stern, though the men were at the time +within a few yards of them. + +From the circumstance of Captain Lyon and myself having +accidentally gone into different huts on our first visits to the +village (for by this name I believe we must venture to dignify the +united abodes of more than sixty human beings), particular +individuals among the Esquimaux had already, in a manner, attached +themselves to each of us. Captain Lyon now informed me that one of +his acquaintance, a remarkably fine and intelligent young man, +named _=Ay~ok~et_, had given him to understand that he had +somewhere or other seen _Kabloona_[*] people like ourselves only a +few months ago. This being the case, there seemed no reason why, +if it were made worth his while, he should not be able to see them +again in the course of next summer. Anxious to profit by this +unexpected mode of communication, I requested Captain Lyon to +endeavour to direct Ayoket's attention to the scheme of conveying +a letter from us to the persons of whom he spoke. + +[Footnote: European.] + +On the 7th I paid another visit to the huts, where I found +scarcely anybody but women and children, the whole of the men, +with the exception of the two oldest, having gone on a sealing +excursion to the northeastern side of the island. One of the +women, named _Il=igliuk_, a sister of the lad Toolooak, who +favoured us with a song, struck us as having a remarkably soft +voice, an excellent ear, and a great fondness for singing, for +there was scarcely any stopping her when she had once begun. We +had, on their first visit to the ships, remarked this trait in +Iligliuk's disposition, when she was listening for the first time +to the sound of the organ, of which she seemed never to have +enough; and almost every day she now began to display some of that +superiority of understanding for which she was so remarkably +distinguished. A few of the women learned several of our names +to-day, and I believe all thought us Angekoks[*] of a very +superior class, when we repeated to them all round, by the +assistance of our books, the names of all their husbands, obtained +on board the preceding day. On our way back to the ships we saw a +party of them, with their dogs, returning over the hill from the +northeastward; and we afterward met another of eight or ten, who +had walked round by the southeast point on the ice, all alike +unsuccessful, after being out in the wind for six hours, with the +thermometer from 18 to 22 degrees below _zero_. Thus hardly did +these people obtain their daily subsistence at this severe season +of the year. + +[Footnote: Sorcerers or wizards, pronounced as written above in +Greenland; but at Winter Island _Ang-~et-k~ook_; and by the people +at Igloolik, _An-n~at-k~o_.] + +A wolf being caught in one of the traps this evening, which was so +close as to be easily watched from the ship, a party of the +officers ran out to secure the depredator, and fired two balls +into the trap at once to despatch him. Finding, after this, that +he continued to bite a sword that was thrust in, a third shot was +fired at him. The trap was then sufficiently opened to get his +hind legs firmly tied together, after which, being considered +tolerably secure, he was pulled out of the trap, which, however, +his head had scarcely cleared, when he furiously flew at Mr. +Richards's throat, and would certainly have done him some serious +mischief had not that gentleman, with great presence of mind, +seized the animal in his turn by the throat, squeezing him with +all his force between both hands. This made the wolf relinquish +his first attempt, and Mr. Richards only suffered by a bite in his +arm and another in his knee, which, on account of the thickness of +his clothes, were happily not severe ones. As for the wolf, he +prudently took to his heels, though two of them were still tied +together; and, being favoured by the momentary confusion, +occasioned by his late rencounter with Mr. Richards, succeeded in +escaping his pursuers. He was found dead the following day at the +distance of three quarters of a mile from the ships. + +On the 8th we were visited by a musical party of females, +consisting only of a few individuals expressly invited for this +purpose. A number of the officers assembled in the cabin to hear +this vocal concert, while Mr. Henderson and myself took down the +notes of their songs, for which, indeed, they gave us every +opportunity, for I thought they would never leave off. We +afterward amused them with our little band of flutes and violins, +and also by some songs, with the whole of which they were +extremely well pleased. I feared several of them, and especially +Iligliuk, would go into fits with delight when we introduced into +our song some of their names mingled with our own. While most of +us were thus employed, Captain Lyon took the opportunity of making +drawings of some of the women, especially of _Togolat_, the +prettiest of the party, and, perhaps, of the whole village. She +was about six-and-twenty years of age, with a face more oval than +that of Esquimaux in general, very pretty eyes and mouth, teeth +remarkably white and regular, and possessing in her carriage and +manners a degree of natural gracefulness, which could not be hid +even under the disguise of an Esquimaux woman's dress, and, as was +usual with Togolat, the dirtiest face of her whole tribe. Her +husband, _Ewerat_, a little ugly man of about five-and-forty, was +the only individual among them laying claim to the title of +Angetkook, and was, in reality, a sensible, obliging man, and a +first-rate seal-catcher. They had two children, one of which, a +little girl, Togolat still occasionally suckled, and, according to +custom, carried in the hood behind her back; the other, a boy +about eight years of age, quite an idiot, deaf and dumb from his +birth, and squinting most horribly with both eyes. + +Finding that these poor creatures were now really in want of food, +for the men had again returned from an unsuccessful excursion, I +was happy to avail myself of a hint given to me by Captain Lyon, +to furnish them occasionally with a small supply of bread-dust, of +which we had two or three casks in each ship. Our present party +was therefore, in addition to other articles, supplied with +several pounds, which they immediately expressed their intention +to take home to their children. Several of them visited the ships +as usual on the 9th, and among the rest Ka-oong-ut and his son +Toolooak. The old gentleman was not a favourite with us, being the +only one who had yet begun to tease us by constant begging. We had +often expressed displeasure at this habit, which, after a day or +two's acquaintance, began to be extremely troublesome; but I had +to-day to take cognizance of his stealing a nail, of which I +determined to take a rather serious notice, as it might otherwise +lead to more extensive theft. I therefore collected all the other +Esquimaux who were on board, and having in their presence +expressed great indignation at this conduct, turned the offender +away in disgrace. Some of those best acquainted with us were +afterward taken into the cabin, where our sentiments were more +fully explained to them. Among these I was not sorry to have +Toolooak and Iligliuk, who would not fail to report at the huts +all our proceedings, but who did not appear to consider themselves +in the slightest degree implicated in their father's offence, or +concerned in his disgrace. The people of the huts being much in +want of food, we again distributed some bread-dust among them; +taking care to send a portion to the infirm old man, _Hik-k~ei-~er= +a_, by _Ok~otook_, the husband of Iligliuk, a fine, active, manly +fellow of about two-and-thirty, who, as we were pleased to find the +next day, had punctually executed his commission. + +The Esquimaux went out on the 10th to endeavour to catch seals as +usual, but returned unsuccessful after several hours' labour. As +it was now evident that their own exertions were not at all times +sufficient to procure them food at this season, and that neither +indolence nor any idea of dependance on our charity induced them +to relax in those exertions, it became incumbent on us carefully +to attend to their wants, and, by a timely and judicious +application of the slender resources we had set aside for their +use, prevent any absolute suffering among them. We therefore sent +out a good meal of bread-dust for each individual, to be divided +in due proportion among all the huts. The necessity of this supply +appeared very strongly from the report of our people, who found +some of these poor creatures actually gnawing a piece of hard +sealskin with the hair on it, while few of the huts had any lamp +alight. It must be remembered that the failure of their +seal-fishery always involves a double calamity, for it not only +deprives them of food, but of fuel for their lamps. When this is +the case, not to mention the want of warmth and light in the huts, +they are also destitute of the means of melting snow for water, +and can therefore only quench their thirst by eating the snow, +which is not only a comfortless, but an ineffectual resource. In +consequence of this, it was surprising to see the quantity of +water these people drank whenever they came on board; and it was +often with difficulty that our coppers could answer this +additional demand. I am certain that Toolooak one day drank nearly +a gallon in less than two hours. Besides the bread-dust, we also +supplied them to-day with a wolf's carcass, which, raw and frozen +as it was, they ate with a good appetite; and, indeed, they had +not the means of cooking, or even thawing it. I cannot here omit a +pleasing trait in their character, observed by our people who +carried out their supplies; not a morsel of which would the +grown-up people touch till they had first supplied the wants of +their hungry little ones. + +On the morning of the 12th, Okotook and his uncle _Arnaneelia_, a +sensible and worthy man of about five-and-forty years of age, +coming on board from their fishing, we showed them the stage and +scenery that were just put up, and invited them and their wives to +the play about to be performed this evening. They accordingly went +back and brought the women, who understood they were to be present +at some diversion, though they did not well know what. It was +enough, however, with Iligliuk, just to make the motion of turning +the handle of the organ, which, conveying to her mind the idea of +music and merriment, was always sure to put her immediately into +high spirits. As they came three or four hours before the +performance of "John Bull" was to commence, they began to grow +tired and impatient, especially when it became dusk, and candles +were brought into the cabin. The men then explained that it would +soon be dark, and that, in returning late to their huts, they +should disturb the people who would then be fast asleep there. +Finding that they grew uneasy, I made no objection to their +returning, and sent them off loaded with bread-dust and some oil +for each of their lamps. They remained long enough, however, to +have a peep at _Mrs. Brulgruddery_, whose dress, when they were +informed it was that of a _kabl=o=ona nooll=e=e-~o_ (European +wife), they were very anxious in examining, and seemed to grieve +at going away without sharing the diversion which this and other +preparations seemed to promise. + +On the 13th, our friends at the huts were fortunate in procuring +three seals, an event that created great joy at the village. Mr. +Allison, who happened to be there when one of these prizes was +announced, informed me that there was a general outcry of joy; all +the Women hurried to the doors of the huts, and the children +rushed to the beach to meet the men dragging along the prize. One +of these little urchins, to complete the triumphant exultation +with which this event was hailed, instantly threw himself on the +animal, and clinging fast to it, was thus dragged to the huts. +Each woman was observed to bring her _=o=otk~oos~eek_, or +cooking-pot, to the hut where the seal was dissected, for the +purpose of receiving a share of the meat and blubber. + +On the 15th it blew a strong gale from S.W. to W.N.W., and the +thermometer, either on account of the strength of the wind or its +having occasionally some southing in it, rose to -4°, being the +highest temperature registered in our journals since the 27th of +December preceding. I had agreed with Okotook to accompany him on +a sealing excursion, but the day proved too inclement, the +Esquimaux not going out themselves, though it was not very often +that the weather could prevent them. Considering it desirable to +increase, by all the means in our power, the chances of these +people giving information of us, we distributed among several of +the men large round medallions of sheet copper, having these words +punched through them: "H.B.M.S. Fury and Hecla, all well, A.D. +1822." These we suspended by a piece of white line round their +necks, giving them to understand that they were to show them to +any Kabloona people they might ever meet with in future. Similar +ornaments, but of a smaller size, were subsequently presented to +many of the women, having on them the words "Fury and Hecla, +1822." + +Early on the morning of the 16th, observing a party of the +Esquimaux, equipped with spears, passing near the ships, I joined +them, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and one or two others. Having +crossed the point of the island, they walked over the ice to the +eastward, where we did not overtake them till they had got above a +mile and a quarter from the shore. This party consisted of eight +persons, among whom we were glad to find Arnaneelia, Okotook, +Toolooak, _Pootooalook_ his elder brother, and one or two others +whom we knew. They had by this time, however, separated into two +or three different parties, stationed at the distance of half a +mile from each other, along the edge of the floe, beyond which, to +the eastward, there was clear water as far as we could see for +frost-smoke. + +The party we at first joined were seated on a high hummock of ice, +with their spears in their hands, looking out for seals. After we +had talked to them for a few minutes, Okotook suddenly started up +and set off along the edge of the ice, without giving us at his +companions the least warning. The latter seemed so much accustomed +to this, that they took no farther notice than by immediately +following him, and we did the same; the whole party walking at a +very quick rate, and the natives keeping their heads constantly +turned towards the sea to look out for seals. After being thus +engaged for an hour and a half, we judged, from the motions of a +party at some distance beyond us, that they had game in view. As +we approached them, Okotook evidently began to be apprehensive +that we, who did not understand the matter, would spoil their +sport. To prevent this, he did the most civil thing that could +well have been devised, which was, to send his companions one by +one to the spot, and to remain with us himself, keeping us at such +a distance as to allow us to see their proceedings, without +alarming the animal they were in pursuit of. The other seven +Esquimaux, now forming one party, disposed themselves into a +single line, so as to make as small an appearance as possible in +the direction in which they were going, and in this manner crept +very cautiously towards the margin of the floe. On a sudden they +all stooped down quite low to hide themselves, and continued thus +a quarter of an hour, during which time they prepared their lines +and spears; and then, when the animal appeared to be intercepted +from their view, again took the opportunity of gaining a few paces +upon him, in the same cautious manner as before. When they had +been thus occupied for a full hour, alternately creeping and +stooping down, the seal, which had been lying on the ice, took the +water, and they then gave up their chase. During this time, +Okotook could scarcely restrain his impatience to be nearer the +scene of action; and when we produced a spyglass, which appeared +to bring his companions close to us, he had not words to express +his surprise and satisfaction. In a short time he held it as +steadily as we did, and explained by signs every motion he +observed. + +As soon as they had given up the seal they had been watching, the +whole party seemed with one accord to turn their steps homeward, +in which direction, being that of the ships also, we were by this +time not sorry to accompany them. We were now between three and +four miles northeast of the ships, and full a mile and a half from +any part of the shore. In the open water beyond the floe, the tide +was running two knots to the northward, and as the ice on which we +stood had been formed only within the last fortnight, and a sheet +as substantial as this had before been carried away by the stream +it was impossible not to feel some apprehension lest we might thus +be detached from the shore, an accident that has been known to +happen to Esquimaux ere now,[*] and has probably more frequently +befallen them, when none have survived to tell the tale. + +[Footnote: Crantz, London edition, 1820, Appendix, p. 310.] + +As we returned towards the land, we came to a small rising on the +level surface of the floe not larger than a common molehill, and +of much the same shape, at which one of the Esquimaux immediately +stopped. His companions, still walking on, called us away, +explaining that what we saw was the work of a seal, and that it +was probable the animal was about to complete his hole and to come +up on the ice, in which case the man would endeavour to kill him. +We watched the man at the hole, however, with a glass, for more +than half an hour, observing him constantly putting his head down +towards the ice, as if in the act of listening for the seal, but +without otherwise changing his position; after which he followed +us on board without success. + +If, however, a man has any reason to suppose that a seal is at +work beneath, he immediately attaches himself to the place, and +seldom leaves it till he has succeeded in killing the animal. For +this purpose, he first builds a snow-wall about four feet in +height, to shelter him from the wind, and, seating himself under +the lee of it, deposites his spear, lines, and other implements +upon several little forked sticks inserted into the snow, in order +to prevent the smallest noise being made in moving them when +wanted. But the most curious precaution to the same effect +consists in tying his own knees together with a thong, so securely +as to prevent any rustling of his clothes, which might otherwise +alarm the animal. In this situation a man will sit quietly +sometimes for hours together, attentively listening to any noise +made by the seal, and sometimes using the _keip-kuttuk_, an +instrument hereafter described, in order to ascertain whether the +animal is still at work below. When he supposes the hole to be +nearly completed, he cautiously lifts his spear, to which the line +has been previously attached, and, as soon as the blowing of the +seal is distinctly heard, and the ice consequently very thin, he +drives it into him with the force of both arms, and then cuts away +with his _panna_ the remaining crust of ice, to enable him to +repeat the wounds and get him out. The _neitiek_ is the only seal +killed in this manner, and, being the smallest, is held while +struggling either simply by hand, or by putting the line round a +spear with the point stuck into the ice. For the _oguke_, the line +is passed round the man's leg or arm; and for a walrus, round his +body, his feet being at the same time firmly set against a hummock +of ice, in which position these people can, from habit, hold +against a very heavy strain. Boys of fourteen or fifteen years of +age consider themselves equal to the killing of a _neitiek_, but +it requires a full-grown person to master either of the larger +animals. + +On the 17th, a number of the Esquimaux coming before the church +service, we gave them to understand, by the sun, that none could +be admitted before noon, when they quietly remained outside the +ships till divine service had been performed. We then endeavoured +to explain to Iligliuk that every seventh day they must not come +to the ships, for, without any intention of offending, they had +become rather an annoyance in this way. They now brought with them +a great many little canoes and paddles, sledges, figures of men +and women; and other toys, most of them already bespoke by the +officers and men, and the rest for sale. + +Toolooak, who now considered himself as quite privileged to find +his way into the cabin without a conductor, and was not backward +in thus practising his newly-acquired art of opening and shutting +the door, sat with me for a couple of hours on the 18th, quietly +drawing faces and animals, an occupation to which he took a great +fancy; and we often were reminded, by this circumstance, of a +similar propensity displayed by his amiable countryman, our +lamented friend John Sackhouse. We soon found that Toolooak +possessed a capacity equal to anything he chose to take an +interest in learning; and could he, at his present age, have been +voluntarily removed from his companions, and his attention +directed to the acquirement of higher branches of knowledge than +that of catching seals, he would have amply repaid any pains +bestowed upon his education. I had always entertained great +objection to taking any such individual from his home, on the +doubtful chance of benefiting himself, or of his doing any service +to the public as an interpreter. My scruples on this head had +hitherto been confined to the consideration due to the individual +himself, and to the relatives he leaves behind. In our present +case, however, not the smallest public advantage could be derived +from it; for it had long ago become evident that we should soon +know more of the Esquimaux language than any of them were likely +to learn of English in any reasonable period of time. I was +therefore far from desiring to receive from Toolooak an answer in +the affirmative, when I to-day plainly put the question to him, +whether he would go with me to _Kabloona noona_ (European +country). Never was a more decisive negative given than Toolooak +gave to this proposal. He eagerly repeated the word _na-o_ (no) +half a dozen times, and then told me that if he went away his +father would cry. This simple but irresistible appeal to paternal +affection, his decisive manner of making it, and the feelings by +which his reply was evidently dictated, were just what could have +been wished. No more could be necessary to convince those who saw +it, that these people may justly lay equal claim with ourselves to +these common feelings of our nature; and, having once satisfied +myself of this, I determined never again to excite in Toolooak's +mind another disagreeable sensation, by talking to him on this +subject. + +Besides the toys and models I have mentioned above, as articles of +barter with these people, we also employed them more usefully in +making wooden shades for the eyes, after their own method, as the +time was fast approaching when some such precaution would become +necessary to guard the eyes from the excessive glare of reflected +light. There was also a considerable _trade_ established in +mittens, which being made of prepared sealskin, and nearly +water-tight, were particularly serviceable to our men when +constantly handling the leadlines in the summer. In this manner we +contrived to turn our new acquaintance to some little account. + +Among the natives who visited the Fury to-day was Ewerat; of whom +I have already spoken as _Ang-et-kook_, or chief sorcerer of the +tribe, a distinction with which he had made some of our gentlemen +acquainted at one, of their earliest visits to the huts. Being +desirous of seeing him perform some of the tricks which had +acquired for him this pre-eminence, I requested him to indulge me +with a sight of them. After some little demur, he began to make +his lips quiver, then moved his nose up and down, gradually closed +his eyes, and increased the violence of his grimaces till every +feature was hideously distorted; at the same time, he moved his +head rapidly from side to side, uttering sometimes a snuffling +sound, and at others a raving sort of cry. Having worked himself +into this ridiculous kind of phrensy, which lasted, perhaps, from +twenty to thirty seconds, he suddenly discontinued it, and +suffered his features to relax into their natural form; but the +motion of his head seemed to have so stupified him, as indeed it +well might, that there remained an unusual vacancy and a drowsy +stare upon his countenance for some time afterward. Being pressed +to repeat this piece of buffoonery, he did so two or three times; +and on one occasion Togolat asked him, in a serious tone, some +questions respecting me, which he as seriously answered. In +general, however, the women paid little attention to his grimaces, +and the whole ended with a hearty laugh from all parties. + +I had to-day some conversation with a woman named Appokiuk, whom +Iligliuk had mentioned as having seen Kabloona people before us. +This woman was gifted, however, with such a volubility of tongue, +that speaking, as she did, in a language very imperfectly known to +us, she gave no time for questions, and therefore afforded little +information. All we could make out for certain was, that she had, +within a year past, seen two _Kabloona oomiak_ (whether ships or +boats was still doubtful[*]), and that her husband was now far +away. From all this we concluded that she had been far enough to +the southward to see the Hudson's Bay ships in the course of their +annual voyage; and this account gave us very sanguine hopes of +being thus able to communicate with them by means of some of the +Esquimaux. + +[Footnote: These people apply the word _oomiak_ to any vessel +larger than a canoe.] + +On the 20th, a number of our new friends having been allowed upon +the upper deck, an old woman named _Ay=ug-g~a-lo~ok_ stole our +cooper's punch, which she was showing to her companions alongside +the Hecla just afterward, when Lieutenant Hoppner observed it, and +sent her back with an escort. It was impossible not to admit that +the fault was chiefly on our side, in permitting these poor people +to roam about too freely amid temptations which scarcely anything +human could have withstood; but as it was necessary to take some +notice of it, I went through nearly the same process as with +Kaoongut, and dismissed her with great appearance of indignation +to the huts. We were glad to find that their wants had there been +well supplied to-day, three seals having been caught. They had +lately, indeed, been tolerably successful in general, and required +but little of our assistance. Mr. Elder observing one of their +dogs attacked by several wolves, and hastening to the spot with +his gun, found that these animals had made such quick work in the +partition of their prey, that, though he reached the scene of +action in a few minutes, and the dog had at first made considerable +resistance, only one of its hind legs remained, each wolf having +run off with its share. It is remarkable that these creatures +had never entered our traps since the moon had declined to the +southward, whereas not a night elapsed before that without their +going to them. The Esquimaux had in theirs caught only a fox. + +During the eclipse of the sun which took place to-day, the +diminution, of light was very considerable, but the weather was +unfavourable for observing it for any useful purpose. Captain Lyon +remarked, that some of the Esquimaux, who were on alarmed at this +phenomenon, which, indeed, made a general bustle among them. Two +of them were found on the ice lying on their faces, but it was not +ascertained whether their superstitions on this subject were the +same as those of their brethren in Greenland. + +Mr. Henderson being desirous of seeing something of the customs of +these people during the hours of darkness, obtained my permission +to pass the night at the huts, accompanied by Mr. Griffiths. Soon +after they left the ships in the evening it came on to blow strong +from the northwest, with much snowdrift, so that, losing the +tracks, they with difficulty found the village. Returning on board +in the course of the next forenoon, we were pleased to hear that +they had met with every attention, and especially from Okotook, +with whom they lodged. As they had slept in Kaoongut's hut, one +side of which was occupied by Okotook and his family, the old +fellow thought it a good opportunity to make up the quarrel +occasioned by his dishonesty; and he accordingly made his +appearance on board to-day for the first time since that event. +Toolooak was deputed to bring his father down into the cabin, where +a formal reconciliation took place, to the great satisfaction of +the latter, who had found out that to be out of favour with us was +attended with the serious consequence of being also out of pocket. +It was laughable to observe the pains he now took to impress on the +minds of every person he saw that he was no longer a _tigliktoke_, +by which name he had lately been distinguished; for he seemed to +think that my receiving him again into favour was a perfect +absolution from his offense. + +On the 23d I paid another visit to the huts, and found the greater +part of the men absent on their sealing excursions. We thought, +however, that, except on pressing occasions, one man was left in +each hut to keep an eye on the conduct of the women, and this was +the case to-day. The huts had in the interior assumed a somewhat +different appearance since I had last seen them; the roofs were +much blackened by the smoke of the lamps, and the warmth had in +most parts given them a glazed and honey-combed surface; indeed, +the whole of the walls had become much thinner by thawing, so that +the light was more plainly visible through them. The snow also, on +which the lamps stood, was considerably worn away, so as to +destroy, in great measure, the regularity of the original plan of +construction. To these changes might be added that of a vast +quantity of blood and oil that now defaced the purity of the snowy +floor, and emitted effluvia not very agreeable to European noses; +so that, upon the whole, it may be imagined that our first +impressions of the comfort and cleanliness of these habitations +were more favourable than their present state was calculated to +excite. + +To the original apartments they had now also added various small +places for stores, communicating with the huts from within, and +looking something like our ovens, though without any door to them. +In some of these they deposited their upper jackets, which they +usually take off in coming into their huts, as we do a greatcoat; +while in smaller ones, like little shelves in a recess, they kept +various articles of their Kabloona riches. These and similar +alterations and additions they were constantly making throughout +the winter; for their inexhaustible materials being always at +hand, it required but little time and labour to adopt any +arrangement that might suit their convenience. + +After distributing a number of presents in the first four huts, I +found, on entering the last, that Pootooalook had been successful +in bringing in a seal, over which two elderly women were standing, +armed with large knives, their hands and faces besmeared with +blood, and delight and exultation depicted on their countenances. +They had just performed the first operation of dividing the animal +into two parts, and thus laying open the intestines. These being +taken out, and all the blood carefully baled up and put into the +_ootkooseek_, or cooking-pot, over the fire, they separated the +head and flippers from the carcass, and then divided the ribs. All +the loose scraps were put into the pot for immediate use, except +such as the two butchers now and then crammed into their mouths, +or distributed to the numerous and eager by-standers for still +more immediate consumption. Of these morsels the children came in +for no small share, every little urchin that could find its way to +the slaughterhouse running eagerly in, and, between the legs of +the men and women, presenting its mouth for a large lump of raw +flesh, just as an English child of the same age might do for a +piece of sugar-candy. Every now and then, also, a dog would make +his way towards the reeking carcass, and, when in the act of +seizing upon some delicate part, was sent off yelping by a heavy +blow with the handles of the knives. When all the flesh is +disposed of, for a portion of which each of the women from the +other huts usually brings her ootkooseek, the blubber still +remains attached to the skin, from which it is separated the last; +and the business being now completed, the two parts of the hide +are rolled up and laid by, together with the store of flesh and +blubber. During the dissection of their seals, they have a curious +custom of sticking a thin filament of skin, or of some part of the +intestines, upon the foreheads of the boys, who are themselves +extremely fond of it, it being intended, as Iligliuk afterward +informed me, to make them fortunate seal-catchers. + +The seals which they take during the winter are of two kinds--the +_Neitiek_, or small seal (_phoca hispida_), and the _Oguke_, or +large seal (_phoca barbata_). These and the _E=i-~u-~ek_, or +walrus, constitute their means of subsistence at this season; but, +on this particular part of the coast, the latter are not very +abundant, and they chiefly catch the neitiek. The animal we had +now seen dissected was of that kind, and with young at the time. A +small one taken out of it had a beautiful skin, which, both in +softness and colour, very much resembled raw silk; but no +inducement could make Pootooalook part with it, he having destined +it for that night's supper. + +After quitting this scene of filth, I found, on returning to +Kaoongut's hut, that Toolooak had been no less successful than his +brother, and that the same operation was also performing here. +Having, therefore, explained to Iligliuk that none of them were to +come to the ships the following day, I had no inclination to see +the process repeated, and was glad to take my leave. + +On the 28th, Okotook and Iligliuk coming on board, an occurrence +took place, which, as it shows the disposition of the Esquimaux, +and especially of one of the most intelligent and interesting +among them, I may here relate. Some time before, Iligliuk, who, +from the superior neatness and cleanliness with which she +performed her work, was by this time in great request as a +seamstress, had promised to cover for me a little model of a +canoe, and had, in fact, sent it to me by the sergeant of marines, +though I had not rightly understood from the latter from which of +the women it came. Believing that she had failed in her promise, I +now taxed her with it, when she immediately defended herself with +considerable warmth and seriousness, but without making me +comprehend her meaning. Finding that she was wasting her words +upon me, she said no more till an hour afterward, when the +sergeant accidentally coming into the cabin, she, with the utmost +composure, but with a decision of manner peculiar to herself, took +hold of his arm to engage his attention, and then looking him +steadfastly in the face, accused him of not having faithfully +executed her commission to me. The mistake was thus instantly +explained, and I thanked Iligliuk for her canoe; but it is +impossible for me to describe the quiet, yet proud satisfaction +displayed in her countenance at having thus cleared herself from +the imputation of a breach of promise. + +There being among the presents with which we were supplied a +number of pikes, we presented two or three of these from each ship +to the most deserving of the Esquimaux, to serve as staves for +their spears; and valuable ones they proved to them. Upon each +pike were marked, by small nails driven into the wood, the words +"Fury and Hecla, 1822." + +Almost the whole of these people were now affected with violent +colds and coughs, occasioned by a considerable thawing that had +lately taken place in their huts, so as to wet their clothes and +bedding; though we had, as yet, experienced no great increase of +temperature. From the nature of their habitations, however, their +comfort was greater, and their chance of health better, when the +cold was more severe. On this account, they began to make fresh +alterations in these curious dwelling-places, either by building +the former apartments two or three feet higher, or adding others, +that they might be less crowded. In building a higher hut, they +constructed it over, and, as it were, concentric with the old one, +which is then removed from within. It is curious to consider that, +in all these alterations, the object kept in view was _coolness_, +and this in houses formed of snow! + +Some of them had caught a wolf in their trap; but we found that +nothing less than extreme want could have induced them to eat the +flesh of that which we had given them, as, now that they had other +food, they would not touch it. Only four wolves at this time +remained alive of the original pack, and these were constantly +prowling about near the ships or the village. + +The month of February closed with the thermometer at -32°, and, +though the sun had now attained a meridian altitude of nearly +sixteen degrees, and enlivened us with his presence above the +horizon for ten hours in the day, no sensible effect had yet been +produced on the average temperature of the atmosphere. The +uniformly white surface of the snow, on which, at this season, the +sun's rays have to act, or, rather, leaving them nothing to act +upon, is much against the first efforts to produce a thaw; but our +former experience of the astonishing rapidity with which this +operation is carried on, when once the ground begins to be laid +bare, served in some measure to reconcile us to what appeared a +protraction of the cold of winter not to have been expected in our +present latitude. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +Our intercourse with the Esquimaux continued, and many occasions +occurred in which they displayed great good humour, and a degree +of archness for which we could have scarcely given them credit. + +On the 12th Okotook came, according to an appointment previously +made, with a sledge and six dogs, to give me a ride to the huts, +bringing with him his son Sioutkuk, who, with ourselves, made up a +weight of near four hundred pounds upon the sledge. After being +upset twice, and stopping at least ten times, notwithstanding the +incessant bullying of Okotook, and, as it seemed to me, more +bodily labour on his part to steer us clear of accidents than if +he had walked the whole way, we at length arrived at the huts; a +distance of two miles, in five-and-twenty minutes. Of this +equipment and their usual modes of travelling, I shall have +occasion to speak more fully in another place. + +I found that several fresh alterations had been made in the huts +since my last visit, all, however, of the same, kind, and having +in view the same object as those last described. In these +alterations they seem to consult the convenience of the moment, +and to do it all by such unanimous consent, that no consultation +or difference of opinion ever appears to exist about it. So much +snowdrift had now collected about the huts, that their external +appearance was as much altered as that of the interior, and it was +difficult to trace any resemblance to the original village, or +even to perceive its present limits. The snow was now as high as +the roofs on every side, so that one might walk completely over +them, and, but for the round plates of ice composing the windows, +without suspecting the little hive of human beings that was +comfortably established below. This, however, was not always done +with impunity, when the thawing within had too much weakened the +roofs, in which case a leg sometimes made its way through, and +discovered in what parts repairs were become necessary. The +natives were at this time extremely well furnished with seals' +flesh for food and oil for their lamps, and all they would accept +from us (except meat, which we could not afford to give) was +water, and this they swallowed in such quantities whenever they +came to the ships, that it was impossible to furnish them with +half as much as they desired. + +We had before this time communicated to Ayoket and his countrymen +our intention of sending a party of our people to the northward in +the spring; and Captain Lyon had displayed to him all the charms +of a brightly-polished brass kettle, of greater magnitude than +had, perhaps, ever entered into an Esquimaux imagination, as an +inducement, among various others, for him to accompany the +Kabloonas in their excursion. The prospect of such riches was a +temptation almost irresistible; but enterprise is not the genius +of an Esquimaux; and Ayoket, we soon began to perceive, had no +fancy for the proposed trip, which all his friends persisted in +saying could never be accomplished. This was evidently to be +attributed, in no small degree, to jealousy of any one individual +among them being thus selected; and the brass kettle was speedily +the means of increasing the distance to "Iligliuk's country" from +sixteen to twenty-four days' journey. We had long, indeed, +observed that this feeling of jealousy was easily excited among +these people; but, what is extraordinary, it never displayed +itself (as is most usual) among themselves, but was entirely +vented upon us, who were, though innocently, the authors of it. As +an instance of this, a man of the name of _Karr~etok_ refused to +take from me a strong and useful pair of scissors as a present, +because, as he did not hesitate to assure me, I had given Okotook +a pike, which was _more_ valuable. To show him that this temper +was not likely to produce anything to his advantage, I took back +the scissors, and, having sent him away, went to my dinner. Going +accidentally on deck an hour afterward, I found Karretok still on +board, who, having had time to reflect on his folly, now came up +to me with a smiling face, and begged hard for the scissors, +which, of course, he did not get. Many similar instances occurred, +both to Captain Lyon and myself. + +To this discouragement on the part of his friends, was added, on +that of Ayoket, the same wavering and inconstant disposition which +most other savages possess, rendering it impossible to place any +dependance on his promises and intentions for two hours together. +Indeed, the more our scheme was pressed upon his attention, and +the more he saw of the actual preparations for the journey, the +less doubtful his intentions became; and arrangements were +therefore made for completing the party without him. For the +reasons now given, it was equally impossible even to direct the +attention of the Esquimaux, with any hope of success, to our +scheme of their conveying letters to the Hudson's Bay settlements. + +Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, some of the +Esquimaux had, by the foot and sledge marks, found their way to +the ships on the morning of the 16th, assuring us, as we found to +be too true, that, in consequence of the gale, which prevented +their going out for seals, they had not any food, nor a single +lamp alight in the village. In the course of the following day, we +had farther proofs of the wretchedness which these poor people +were enduring at the huts; for, though the weather was little +better than before, above forty men and women, besides some +children, came down to the ships, and begged with more than their +usual earnestness for something to eat. It now once more became an +act of humanity, and consequently of duty, to supply them as well +as we were able; and all were admitted to partake of as much +bread-dust as they could eat, besides a quantity which they took +away with them. It had been long since Okotook and Iligliuk cared +to accept this kind of food from us, partly because our respect +for the latter generally ensured them something better, and partly +because, of late, they had procured plenty of seals; to-day, +however, they devoured it eagerly, and seemed very well satisfied +to take their share with the others. When the usual time of +departure came, they all discovered a wish to remain on board; +but, as we could not find lodgings for the whole tribe, they were +obliged very reluctantly to return. _Nannow_, a fine, quiet young, +man, whose native country is near Chesterfield Inlet, and who, +having only a sister here, used to live with Okotook, begged very +hard to remain on board; but, as I did not like to give the +preference to one in particular, he also took his leave. + +On the 18th, almost every man from the huts was out seal-hunting, +and three or four, as the women informed us, had gone to a +considerable distance "for walruses" and with the intention of +remaining out for the night in a snow hut. While the men were thus +employed, their wives did not fail to use their endeavours also to +procure food; and I believe that every female belonging to the +village, without a single exception, made her appearance at the +ships to-day, and was supplied with a proportion of bread-dust for +her family. It was pleasing to observe that they were always +punctual in returning the buckets and bags which we lent them for +carrying out their provisions. + +The endeavours we had lately been making to gain from the +Esquimaux some knowledge of the geographical features of the land +to the northward, had at length been crowned with greater success +than we had anticipated, and some information of a very gratifying +and interesting nature thus obtained. I shall here, therefore, +give some account of that information, and of the progressive +steps by which it was communicated, which may, at the same time, +serve to show the kind and degree of dependence that is to be +placed on geographical notices thus obtained. + +The first attempt made in this way was by placing several sheets +of paper before Iligliuk, and roughly drawing on a large scale an +outline of the land about Repulse Bay and Lyon Inlet, and, +terminating at our present winter-quarters. Iligliuk was not long +in comprehending what we desired, and with the pencil continued +the outline, making the land trend, as we supposed, to the +northeastward, and giving the names of the principal places as we +proceeded. The scale being large, it was necessary, when she came +to the end of one piece of paper to tack on another, till at +length she had filled ten or twelve sheets, and had completely +lost the sight of Winter Island (called _Ne-y=uning-E=it-d~u~a_) +at the other end of the table. The idea entertained from this +first attempt was, that we should find the coast indented by +several inlets, and in some parts much loaded with ice, especially +at one strait to the northward of her native island Amitioke, +which seemed to lead in a direction very much to the westward. + +Within a week after this, several other charts were drawn by the +natives in a similar way, principally by the desire of Captain +Lyon and Mr. Griffiths, who took great pains to acquire +information of this nature, and sent me copies of these +productions. The coast was here delineated as before, on a very +large scale, but much more in, detail, many more islands, bays, +and names being, inserted. It was observable, however, that no two +charts much resembled each other, and that the greater number of +them still less resembled the truth in those parts of the coast +with which we were well acquainted. + +Early in the morning the Esquimaux had been observed in motion at +the huts; and several sledges, drawn by dogs and heavily laden, +went off to the westward. On going out to the village, we found +one half of the people had quitted their late habitations, taking +with them every article of their property, and had gone over the +ice, we knew not where, in quest of more abundant food. The +wretched appearance which the interior of the huts now presented +baffles all description. In each of the larger ones some of the +apartments were either wholly or in part deserted, the very snow +which composed the beds and fireplaces having been turned up, that +no article might be left behind. Even the bare walls, whose +original colour was scarcely perceptible for lampblack, blood, and +other filth, were not left perfect, large holes having been made +in the sides and roofs for the convenience of handing out the +goods and chattels. The sight of a deserted habitation is at all +times calculated to excite in the mind a sensation of dreariness +and desolation, especially when we have lately seen it filled with +cheerful inhabitants; but the feeling is heightened rather than +diminished when a small portion of these inhabitants remain behind +to endure the wretchedness which such a scene exhibits. This was +now the case at the village, where, though the remaining tenants +of each hut had combined to occupy one of the apartments, a great +part of the bed-places were still bare, and the wind and drift +blowing in through the holes which they had not yet taken the +trouble to stop up. The old man Hikkeiera and his wife occupied a +hut by themselves, without any lamp, or a single ounce of meat +belonging to them; while three small skins, on which the former +was lying, were all that they possessed in the way of blankets. +Upon the whole, I never beheld a more miserable spectacle, and it +seemed a charity to hope that a violent and constant cough, with +which the old man was afflicted, would speedily combine with his +age and infirmities to release him from his present sufferings. +Yet, in the midst of all this, he was cheerful, nor was there a +gloomy countenance to be seen at the village. Almost all the men +were out; and some of them had been led so far to sea upon the +floating and detached masses of ice in pursuit of walruses, that +Captain Lyon, who observed their situation from the ships, had it +in contemplation, in the course of the evening, to launch one of +the small boats to go to their assistance. They seemed, however, +to entertain no apprehensions themselves, from a confidence, +perhaps, that the southeast wind might be depended upon for +keeping the ice close home upon the shore. It is certain, +notwithstanding, that no degree of precaution, nor any knowledge +of the winds and tides, can render this otherwise than a most +perilous mode of obtaining subsistence; and it was impossible, +therefore, not to admire the fearlessness as well as dexterity +with which the Esquimaux invariably pursued it. + +Having distributed some bread-dust among the women, we told old +Illumea and her daughter Togolat that we proposed taking up our +lodging in their hut for the night. It is a remarkable trait in +the character of these people, that they always thank you heartily +for this, as well as for eating any of their meat; but board and +lodging may be given to _them_ without receiving the slightest +acknowledgment either in word or deed. As it was late before the +men returned, I asked Togolat to get the rest of the women to +perform some of their games, with the hope of seeing something +that was new. I had scarcely time to make the proposal when she +darted out of the hut, and quickly brought every female that was +left at the village, not excepting even the oldest of them, who +joined in the performance with the same alacrity as the rest. I +could, however, only persuade them to go through a tedious song we +often before heard, which was now, indeed, somewhat modified by +their insisting on our taking our turns in the performance, all +which did not fail to create among them never-ceasing merriment +and laughter. Neither their want of food and fuel, nor the +uncertain prospect of obtaining any that night, was sufficient to +deprive these poor creatures of that cheerfulness and good-humour +which it seems at all times their peculiar happiness to enjoy. + +The night proved very thick, with small snow, and as disagreeable +and dangerous for people adrift upon floating ice as can well be +imagined. If the women, however, gave their husbands a thought, or +spoke of them to us, it was only to express a very sincere hope +that some good news might shortly arrive of their success. Our +singing party had not long been broken up, when it was suddenly +announced by one of the children, the usual heralds on such +occasions, that the men had killed something on the ice. The only +two men who were at home instantly scrambled on their outer +jackets, harnessed their dogs, and set off to assist their +companions in bringing home the game, while the women remained for +an hour in anxious suspense as to the extent of their husbands' +success. At length one of the men arrived with the positive +intelligence of two walruses having been taken, and brought with +him a portion of these animals as large as he could drag over the +snow. If the women were only cheerful before, they were now +absolutely frantic. A general shout of joy instantly re-echoed +through the village; they ran into each other's huts to +communicate the welcome intelligence, and actually hugged one +another in an ecstasy of delight by way of congratulation. One of +them, _Arnal=o=o~a_, a pretty young woman of nineteen or twenty, +knowing that a dog belonging to her husband was still at the huts, +and that there was no man to take him down on the ice, ran out +instantly to perform that office; and, with a hardihood not to be +surpassed by any of the men, returned, after two hours' absence, +with her load of walrus flesh, and without even the hood thrown +over her head to shelter her from the inclemency of the weather. + +When the first burst of joy had at length subsided, the women +crept, one by one, into the apartment where the first portion of +the seahorses had been conveyed, which is always that of one of +the men immediately concerned in the killing of them. Here they +obtained blubber enough to set all their lamps alight, besides a +few scraps of meat for their children and themselves. From this +time, which was nine o'clock, till past midnight, fresh cargoes +were continually arriving; the principal part being brought in by +the dogs, and the rest by the men, who, tying the thong which held +it round their waist, dragged in each his separate portion. Before +the whole was brought in, however, some of them went out three +times to the scene of action, though the distance was a mile and a +half. + +Every lamp now swimming with oil, the huts exhibited a blaze of +light, and never was there a scene of more joyous festivity than +while the operation of cutting up the walruses continued. I took +the opportunity, which their present good-humour afforded, to +obtain a perfect head and tusks of one of these animals, which we +had not been able to do before; and, indeed, so much were their +hearts opened by the scene of abundance before them, that I +believe they would have given us anything we asked for. This +disposition was considerably increased also by their taking into +their heads that their success was in some way or other connected +with, or even owing to, our having taken up our night's lodging at +the huts. + +After viewing all this festivity for some time, I felt disposed to +rest; and, wrapping myself up in my fur coat, lay down on one of +the beds which Illumea had given up for our accommodation, as well +as her _k=eipik_, or large deerskin blanket, which she rolled up +for my pillow. The poor old woman herself sat up by her lamp, and +in that posture seemed perfectly well satisfied to doze away the +night. The singularity of my night's lodging made me awake several +times, when I always found some of the Esquimaux eating, though, +after we lay down, they kept quite quiet for fear of disturbing +us. Mr. Halse, who was still more wakeful, told me that some of +them were incessantly employed in this manner for more than three +hours. Indeed, the quantity of meat that thus they contrive to get +rid of is almost beyond belief. + +Having at length enjoyed a sound nap, I found on waking, about +five o'clock, that the men were already up, and had gone out to +renew their labours on the ice, so that several of them could not +have rested more than two or three hours. This circumstance served +to correct a notion we had entertained, that, when once abundantly +supplied with food, they took no pains to obtain more till want +began again to stare them in the face. It was now more pleasing to +be assured that, even in the midst of plenty, they did not +indolently give themselves up to repose, but were willing to take +advantage of every favourable opportunity to increase their store. +It is certain, indeed, that, were these people more provident (or, +in other words, less gluttonous, for they do not waste much), they +might never know what it is to want provisions, even during the +most inclement part of the year. The state of the ice was to-day +very unfavourable for their purpose, being broken into pieces so +small that they could scarcely venture to walk upon it. + +The morning of the 5th proved favourable for a journey I had in +contemplation to the distant huts, to which Iligliuk, who had come +to Winter Island the day before, promised to be my guide. At six +o'clock I set out, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and two of the men, +carrying with us a supply of bread-dust, besides our own +provisions and blankets. As the distance was too great for her son +Sioutkuk to walk, we were uncertain, till the moment of setting +out, how this was to be managed, there being no sledge at hand for +the purpose. We found, however, that a man, whom we had observed +for some time at work among the hummocks of ice upon the beach, +had been employed in cutting out of that abundant material a neat +and serviceable little sledge, hollowed like a bowl or tray, out +of a solid block, and smoothly rounded at the bottom. The thong to +which the dogs were attached was secured to a groove cut round its +upper edge; and the young seal-catcher, seated in this simple +vehicle, was dragged along with great convenience and comfort. + +The ice over which we travelled was a level floe that had never +suffered disturbance since its first formation in the autumn, and +with not more than an inch and a half of snow upon it. The path +being distinctly marked out by the people, sledges, and dogs that +had before travelled upon it, one might, without any great stretch +of the imagination, have almost fancied it a road leading over a +level and extensive heath towards a more civilized and substantial +village than that which we were now approaching, Iligliuk walked +as nimbly as the best of us: and, after two hours' and a half +brisk travelling, we arrived at the huts, and were received by the +women (for all the men were absent) with every expression of +kindness and welcome. Each was desirous of affording us lodging, +and we had speedily arranged matters so as to put them to the +least possible inconvenience. + +These huts, four in number, were, in the mode of their +construction, exact counterparts of those at Winter Island on our +first visit, but, being new and clean, presented a striking +contrast with the latter, in their present disordered and filthy +state. What gave a peculiarity, as well as beauty also, to the +interior appearance of these habitations, was their being situated +on the ice, which, being cleared of the snow, presented a flooring +of that splendid blue which is, perhaps, one of the richest +colours that nature affords. A seal or two having been lately +procured, every lamp was now blazing, and every _=o=otk~ose~ek_ +smoking with a hot mess, which, together with the friendly +reception we experienced, and a little warmth and fatigue from +travelling, combined in conveying to our minds an idea of comfort +which we could scarcely believe an Esquimaux hut capable of +exciting. + +On the arrival of the men, who came in towards evening with two +seals as the reward of their labour, we were once more greeted and +welcomed. _Arnaneelia_, in particular, who was a quiet, obliging, +and even amiable man, was delighted to find my quarters were to be +in his apartment, where _An=e=etka_, his wife, a young woman of +about twenty-three, had already arranged everything for my +accommodation; and both these poor people now vied with each other +in their attention to my comfort. The other two apartments of the +same hut were occupied by Kaoongut and Okotook, with their +respective wives and families; it being the constant custom of +these people thus to unite in family groups whenever the nature of +their habitations will allow it. Mr. Bushnan being established +with Okotook, and the two men with Kaoongut, we were thus all +comfortably lodged under the same roof. + +Toolooak having been concerned in killing one of the seals just +brought in, it fell to his mother's lot to dissect it, the +_neitiek_ being the only animal which the women are permitted to +cut up. We had therefore an opportunity of seeing this filthy +operation once more performed, and entirely by the old lady +herself, who was soon up to her elbows in blood and oil. Before a +knife is put into the animal, as it lies on its back, they pour a +little water into its mouth, and touch each flipper and the middle +of the belly with a little lamp-black and oil taken from the under +part of the lamp. What benefit was expected from this preparatory +ceremony we could not learn, but it was done with a degree of +superstitious care and seriousness, that bespoke its indispensable +importance. The boys came eagerly into the hut as usual, and held +out their foreheads for the old woman to stick the charms upon +them; and it was not till now that we learned from Iligliuk the +efficacy of this very useful custom. As soon as this dirty +operation was at an end, during which the numerous by-standers +amused themselves in chewing the intestines of the seal, the +strangers retired to their own huts, each bearing a small portion +of the flesh and blubber, while our hosts enjoyed a hearty meal of +boiled meat and hot gravy soup. Young Sioutkuk ate at least three +pounds of solid meat in the first three hours after our arrival at +the huts, besides a tolerable proportion of soup, all which his +mother gave him whenever he asked it, without the smallest remark +of any kind. We now found that they depended on catching seals +alone for their subsistence, there being no walruses in this +neighbourhood. As they were several miles from any open water, +their mode of killing them was entirely confined to watching for +the animals coming up in the holes they make through the ice. + +In the course of the evening our conversation happened to turn on +the Indians, a people whom none of these Esquimaux had ever seen; +but with whose ferocity and decided hostility to their own nation +they seemed to be well acquainted. They described, also, their +peculiar manner of paddling their canoes, and were aware that they +made use of the kind of show-shoes which we showed them. When I +related to them, as well as I was able, the massacre of the +Esquimaux recorded by Hearne, and gave them to understand that the +Indians spared neither age nor sex, it seemed to chill them with +horror, and I was almost sorry that I had told them the story. + +_April 11._--We were now glad to begin making some show of +re-equipping the ships for sea; for though this was a business +that might, if necessary, have been very well accomplished in two +or three weeks, it was better to employ the men in occupations +having an evident and determinate object, than in those less +obviously useful ones to which it was necessary to resort during +the winter. We therefore brought down some of the boats to the +ships to repair, put up the forge on the ice, and built a snow +house over it, and set about various other jobs, which made the +neighbourhood of the ships assume a busy and bustling appearance. + +I had to-day a visit from Okotook and Iligliuk, who, with their +son, came in upon their sledge from the distant huts. Being +desirous of entertaining them well, in return for their late +hospitality, we provided abundance to eat, and showed them +everything about the ship that we thought likely to amuse them. Of +all the wonders they had ever seen on board, there was nothing +which seemed to impress them so strongly with a sense of our +superiority as the forge, and the work which the armourer +performed with it. The welding of two pieces of iron especially +excited their admiration, and I never saw Iligliuk express so much +astonishment at anything before. Even in this her superior good +sense was observable, for it was evident that the utility of what +she saw going on was what forced itself upon her mind; and she +watched every stroke of the hammer and each blast of the bellows +with extreme eagerness, while numbers of the other Esquimaux +looked stupidly on, without expressing the smallest curiosity or +interest in the operation, except by desiring to have some +spear-heads fashioned out by this means. Iligliuk was always very +much entertained also by pictures having any relation to the +Esquimaux in other parts, and derived great entertainment from a +description of any difference in their clothes, utensils, or +weapons. Of these the sail in an Esquimaux boat seemed particularly +to attract her notice; but, in general, she had no inclination +to admit the inferiority of her, own tribe to any other. She +was always extremely inquisitive about her own sex, whether +_Innuees_[*] or _Kabloonas_, listening with eager attention to any +account of their dress or occupations, and in common, I believe, +with all the rest of the Esquimaux, wondered how we came to travel +to their country without our wives. The assurance that many among +us were not married, they received with evident incredulity. + +[Footnote: Esquimaux.] + +On the 13th, a number of the natives from the Winter Island huts +formed a second detachment, and set off for the other village. +They carried their goods on sledges as before, even to the +exclusion of poor old Hikkeiera, whom some of our gentlemen +overtook crawling after his companions with a stick, and who, but +for their remonstrances, might that day have finished his +pilgrimage on earth. They insisted, however, on his being placed +on one of the sledges, which was accordingly complied with; but, +on their arrival at the village, his companions left him lying +there till their huts were built. All the Esquimaux pressed our +gentlemen very strongly to sleep at the village; but one of the +women gave Mr. Bird an indifferent specimen of her hospitality, by +picking his pocket of a handkerchief, though not so dexterously as +to escape detection. The few who visited the ships to-day told us +that they were all about to leave Winter Island on the morrow; and +Okotook and Iligliuk, who had not yet returned, came on board +among the rest to pay a last visit. I gave the former a large +piece of oak wood for a bow and two arrows, a second iron +spear-head, and various other articles, to add to the stock of +wealth he had from time to time received from us. As these good +folks found themselves perfectly at home in my cabin, I was +usually in the habit of continuing my occupations when they were +there, without being disturbed by them. Being now engaged in +writing, my attention was unexpectedly directed towards them by +Iligliuk's suddenly starting from her seat, moving quickly towards +the door, and, without saying a word either to me or any of the +officers present, hastening directly on deck. Okotook, indeed, as +he followed her out of the cabin, turned round and said "Good-by," +of which expression he had learned the meaning, and then, without +giving us time to return the compliment, they both hurried out of +the ship, leaving us in some astonishment at this singular +leave-taking, which we then supposed to be the last. + +We could now begin to perceive, from day to day, that the snow on +shore was diminishing. How slow this process was, may, however, be +understood by the fact, that it was necessary to make a mark on +some stone to be assured it was thus receding. Our snow-wall had +indeed settled down nearly a foot by the gradual diminution of the +blocks of which it was composed; but the thawing had been +artificially assisted by the black cloth hung against it. Five +ravens were seen to-day, all quite black; four of them were flying +in pairs. + +On the 22d a number of the Esquimaux came to the ships with a +sledge, and among the rest my late host Arnaneelia and his wife, +the latter having the front of her jacket adorned with numberless +strings of beads that we had given her, arranged with exact +uniformity, to which, in the fashion of their dresses and the +disposition of their ornaments, these people always rigidly +adhere. Aneekta had scarcely reached the cabin when she produced a +little ivory comb and a pair of handsome mittens, which she +presented to Mr. Edwards, at the same time thanking him for the +attention he had shown her on an occasion when she had been taken +in a fit alongside the Fury, from which she was recovered by +bleeding. This expression of gratitude, in which she was heartily +joined by her husband, was extremely gratifying to us; as it +served, in some degree, to redeem these people in our estimation +from the imputation of ingratitude, which is, indeed, one of their +greatest failings. They stated having seen two reindeer the +preceding day going over the ice to the main land. They spoke of +this with great pleasure: and we were ourselves not displeased +with the prospect of changing our diet for a little venison. They +now became extremely urgent with us for wood to make bows and +arrows, most of their own having, with the childishness that +accompanied their first barterings, been parted with to our +officers and men. Having several broken oars which could be turned +to little or no account on board, we were enabled, at a small +expense of useful stores, to furnish them very abundantly with +wood for this purpose. Arnaneelia also informed us that Okotook, +who had been unwell for some days, was now much worse, and seemed, +as he described it, to be labouring under a violent pulmonary +complaint. On the circumstance being mentioned to Mr. Skeoch, he +kindly volunteered to go to the village, and accordingly took his +seat on the sledge, accompanied also by Mr. Sherer. They carried +with them a quantity of bread-dust to be distributed among the +Esquimaux at the huts, their success in seal-catching having +lately been indifferent. + +A number of Esquimaux came to the ships on the 25th, +notwithstanding a strong breeze from the S.W.b.W., with a +considerable snowdrift. From these people we learned that +Okotook's complaint had increased since Mr. Skeoch's visit, and +that he was now extremely ill. Mr. Bushnan immediately offered to +go to the huts for the purpose of bringing him on board, where, by +Mr. Edwards's kind attentions, and the enjoyment of warmth and +dryness, we hoped soon to recover him. Mr. Bushnan, therefore, +without waiting for the return of the sledges, set out for the +village at an early hour in the forenoon, accompanied by the +sergeant of marines. At eleven at night our party returned on +board, bringing on a sledge Okotook, Iligliuk, and their son. That +Iligliuk would accompany her husband, I, of course, took for +granted and wished; but as the boy could do us no good, and was, +moreover, a desperate eater, I had desired Mr. Bushnan to try +whether a slight objection to his being of the party would induce +Okotook to leave him with his other relations. This he had +cautiously done; but, the instant the proposal was made, Okotook, +without any remark, began to take off the clothes he had himself +just dressed in to set out. No farther objection being made, +however, he again prepared for the journey, Iligliuk assisting him +with the most attentive solicitude. Before the invalid was +suffered to leave his apartment, some of the by-standers sent for +Ewerat, now better known to our people by the undignified +appellation of the "conjuror." Ewerat, on this occasion, +maintained a degree of gravity and reserve calculated to inspire +somewhat more respect than we had hitherto been disposed to +entertain for him in that capacity. Placing himself at the door of +the apartment opposite Okotook, who was still seated on the bed, +he held both his thumbs in his mouth, keeping up a silent but +solemn converse with his _toorngow_,[*] the object of which was, +as Mr. Bushnan presently afterward found, to inquire into the +efficacy and propriety of the sick man's removal. Presently he +began to utter a variety of confused and inarticulate sounds; and +it being at length understood that a favourable answer had been +given, Okotook was carried out and placed on the sledge, Ewerat +still mumbling his thumbs and muttering his incantations as +before. When the party took their leave, there were a great many +doleful faces among those that remained behind; and Mr. Bushnan +said that the whole scene more resembled the preparations for a +funeral than the mere removal of a sick man. When the sledge moved +on, Ewerat was the only one who had not a "Good-by!" ready, he +being as seriously engaged as at first, and continuing so as long +as our people could observe him. + +[Footnote: Familiar spirit.] + +Okotook was extremely ill on his arrival, having been three hours +on the sledge, and Iligliuk, who, as Mr. Bushnan told me, had +scarcely taken her eyes off her husband's face the whole time, +seemed almost worn out with fatigue and anxiety. A bed of wolf +skins being prepared for him, Okotook was soon placed upon it, and +such remedies applied as Mr. Edwards judged necessary for his +complaint, which was inflammation of the lungs to a degree that, +if left to itself, or even to Ewerat, would soon have proved +fatal, or, at best, have terminated in consumption. + +On the 26th, a southeast wind brought a heavy fall of snow in +flakes much larger than before. The thermometers on the ice at +noon stood at 23° in both aspects. We heard from Illumea, who came +to see her son Okotook, that a part of the natives had gone still +farther to the westward upon the ice, one spot not affording +sufficient subsistence for the whole of them. Our patient felt +much the better for a comfortable night's lodging, and now +submitted with great patience to the application of a blister, +though I believe his confidence in our mode of cure was afterward +shaken for a time by the pain which it occasioned. Both he and +Iligliuk, however, seemed very sensibly to feel the comforts and +advantages of their present quarters; and a "coyenna" (thanks) now +and then fell from their lips. Nothing could exceed the attention +which the latter paid to her husband; she kept her eyes almost +constantly fixed upon him, and seemed anxious to anticipate every +want. + +One of Okotook's brothers had arrived from the huts, bringing with +him some walrus-flesh to tempt the appetite of the invalid, whose +stomach, however, very fortunately for his complaint, was not +disposed to this kind of delicacy. When his brother was about to +return, Okotook took it into his head to send his son away with +him, probably because he heard they had the day before killed two +seals, which afforded better feeding than we had to give him; be +this as it may, we were not sorry that he went, and the boy +himself seemed no less pleased; for, without playfellows or +amusement of any kind, his time hung very heavily on his hands +while he remained on board. It was amusing to see Okotook take a +dose of physic for the first time in his life to-day. He knew its +taste was not pleasant, but this was certainly not all that he +dreaded; for, before he put the cup to his lips with one hand, he +held on by his wife with the other, and she by him with both hers, +as though they expected an explosion, or some such catastrophe, as +the immediate effect of the potion; nor did he venture to relinquish +his hold till the taste began to leave his mouth. The quantity of +water which he drank in the course of the four-and-twenty hours +is beyond conception; and the cabin fire could scarcely, by the +melting of snow, furnish enough for their consumption. These people +are extremely particular as to the purity of the water they drink. +Some that had been melted in our steamer, and which I thought very +good, neither of them would touch, or, at least, always spat out +again. If the water was much above the temperature of 32°, they +also disliked it, and immediately put snow into it to cool it +down. Iligliuk, who came on board with one side of her hair loose, +loosened the other also to-day, in consequence of her fancying +Okotook worse, though it was only the annoyance of the blister that +made him uneasy; for even in this sequestered corner of the globe +dishevelled locks bespeak mourning. It was not, however, with her +the mere semblance of grief, for she was really much distressed +throughout the day, all our endeavours not availing to make her +understand how one pain was to be removed by inflicting another. + +Captain Lyon being desirous of having some little clothes made as +models of the Esquimaux costume, and thinking Iligliuk's present +leisure afforded her a good opportunity of making them, had +yesterday obtained her promise that she would do so. Okotook being +now very much better, and she having herself resumed her usual +gayety in consequence, I pressed her to commence her work, and +placed the skins before her, when she said that she could not do +them here, as she had no needles. These being supplied her, she +now complained of, having no _t=o=okt~oo-e-w=all~oo_ (reindeer +sinew), their usual thread. This difficulty, unfortunately for +Iligliuk's credit, was as easily overcome as the other; and when +scissors, pattern clothes, and all the other requisites were laid +before her, she was at length driven to the excuse that Okotook's +illness would not permit her to do it. Seeing us half laughing at +the absurdity of these excuses, and half angry at the selfish +indolence which prompted them, she at last flatly asserted that +Okotook desired her not to work, which, though we knew it to be a +falsehood, the latter did not deny. We then supposed that some +superstition might be at the bottom of this; but having, a little +while after, by way of experiment, thrown Iligliuk some loose +beads upon the table, she eagerly employed herself for half an +hour in stringing them that not one might be lost; which proved +that, where her own gratification or interest were concerned, +Okotook's illness was not suffered to interfere. This anecdote +shows, in a strong light, that deep-rooted selfishness, which, in +numberless instances, notwithstanding the superiority of +Iligliuk's understanding, detracted from the amiability of her +disposition. The fact was, that she did not feel inclined so far +to exert herself as to comply with Captain Lyon's request; and the +slight degree of gratitude and proper feeling which was requisite +to overcome that disinclination was altogether wanting. + +I have related this anecdote just as it occurred, with the hope of +showing the true disposition of these people, and not with a view +of unduly depreciating the character of our friend Iligliuk. I am, +however, compelled to acknowledge, that, in proportion as the +superior understanding of this extraordinary woman became more and +more developed, her head (for what female head is indifferent to +praise?) began to be turned with the general attention and +numberless presents she received. The superior decency and even +modesty of her behaviour had combined, with her intellectual +qualities, to raise her, in our estimation, far above her +companions; and I often heard others express what I could not but +agree in, that for Iligliuk alone, of all the Esquimaux women, +that kind of respect could be entertained which modesty in a +female never fails to command in our sex. Thus regarded, she had +always been freely admitted into the ships, the quartermasters at +the gangway never thinking of refusing entrance to the "wise +woman," as they called her. Whenever any explanation was necessary +between the Esquimaux and us, Iligliuk was sent for as an +interpreter; information was chiefly obtained through her, and she +thus found herself rising into a degree of consequence to which, +but for us, she could never have attained. Notwithstanding a more +than ordinary share of good sense on her part, it will not, +therefore, be wondered at if she became giddy with her exaltation, +assuming certain airs which, though infinitely diversified in +their operation according to circumstances, perhaps universally +attend a too sudden accession of good fortune in every child of +Adam from the equator to the poles. The consequence was, that +Iligliuk was soon spoiled; considered her admission into the ships +and most of the cabins no longer as an indulgence, but a right; +ceased to return the slightest acknowledgment for any kindness or +presents; became listless and inattentive in unravelling the +meaning of our questions, and careless whether her answers +conveyed the information we desired. In short, Iligliuk in +February and Iligliuk in April were confessedly very different +persons; and it was at last amusing to recollect, though not very +easy to persuade one's self, that the woman who now sat demurely +in a chair, so confidently expecting the notice of those around +her, and she who had at first, with eager and wild delight, +assisted in cutting snow for the building of a hut, and with the +hope of obtaining a single needle, were actually one and the same +individual. + +Togolat came down to the ships to-day to see her brother Okotook; +she was accompanied by Arnalooa, and on their arrival they were +both sent for into the cabin. We observed, however, that they +required an unusual degree of solicitation to make them go near +Okotook, or even to the side of the cabin, where he lay concealed +by a screen; and, after all, they remained in the opposite corner +next the door; and, having talked freely to the invalid for some +time, took their leave without seeing him. In the evening, after +they were gone, we found that this unfortunate though well-intended +visit was occasioning great distress to Okotook, who talked for two +hours almost incessantly about "Arnalooa's having seen him," which, +it seems, ought not to have been the case. What misfortune was to +be apprehended in consequent of this event we could not learn; but +he spoke of it in a kind of agony, and was evidently labouring +under the influence of some powerful though absurd superstition +respecting it. Towards night he suffered a dreadful bleeding at the +nose, followed by much sickness at the stomach, which, together +with the phanton of Arnalooa, that still haunted his imagination, +combined to make him extremely unwell for some hours. The next day, +however, he was free from complaint of any kind, and began once +more to put on a smiling countenance. + +The caulking of our bows being now completed, the ships were +released from the ice by sawing round them; an operation which +caused them to rise in the water six inches and a half, in +consequence of the increased buoyancy occasioned by the winter's +expenditure. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + +As there was an increased extent of open water in the offing, and +the weather being now, to all appearance, tolerably settled, I +determined on sending away a travelling party under Captain Lyon. +It consisted of Lieutenant Palmer, five seamen, and three marines, +the whole being victualled for twenty days, and furnished with a +tent, fuel, and every other convenience of which such a journey +would admit. The baggage was placed on light sledges, resembling +those used by Captain Franklin on his late journey to the shores +of the Polar Sea, made out of staves shaved thin, six feet eight +inches long, fourteen inches broad, and turned up before. Being +secured entirely with thongs of hide sunk by grooves into the wood +to keep them from wearing, they were perfectly flexible, so as to +be in no danger of breaking on uneven ground. Each individual of +the party was furnished with one of these, which also served to +sleep and sit upon; the weight dragged by each of the men being +about one hundred and twenty pounds, and that of the officers from +ninety to ninety-five. Each person had also a pair of snow-shoes, +a deerskin jacket and boots for sleeping in, and another pair of +boots of water-tight sealskin. + +The general tenour of Captain Lyon's instructions was, "after +crossing to the continent, to proceed along that coast to the +northward, carefully examining any bend or inlet he might meet +with, so as to leave no doubt, if possible, of its actual extent +and communications, thereby preventing the necessity of the ships +entering it on their arrival there." I added, also, the necessary +directions for remarking everything of interest relating to the +tides, and the natural productions of the country; and I limited +Captain Lyon to the end of the month in returning, to avoid the +possibility of detaining the expedition. + +Their preparations being completed, our travellers left the ships +under a salute of three cheers from both the crews, and +accompanied by a large party of officers and men to assist them, +for the first few hours. A day or two after their departures a +supply of provisions was lodged on shore, according to a plan +previously agreed on, in case of our being forced out to sea with +the ice before their return. Arrangements were also made for +putting an officer and two men on shore, as a guard to this as +well as to the clock, tent, or any other articles that might be +left behind, in the event of an occurrence of this nature. + +In the course of the forenoon of the 15th, a message to our +medical gentlemen announced the fall of James Pringle, one of the +seamen of the Hecla, from her mizen-topmast-head to the deck; and +in a few minutes after I was much shocked in receiving Lieutenant +Hoppner's report of his death, no sign of life having indeed +appeared in him from the first moment after his fall. On +examination, it was found that the base of the scull was +fractured, and the neck also dislocated. A grave was directed to +be dug near the observatory, and arrangements were made for the +funeral taking place on the following Sunday. + +On the 16th, Ewerat, with his wife and family, arrived at the +ships, bringing with them all their goods and chattels, and with +the intention of taking up their abode upon the ice near us. They +accordingly built their hut about a hundred yards from the Fury's +stern, but whether with the view of living upon us, or the seals +that frequent the bay, we were at first at a loss to conjecture. +Ewerat's household consisted not only of his own family, but of +Appokiuk and Itkamuk, the former of whom having no husband, and +the latter no relative, they both seemed to be fairly "on the +parish." Besides this establishment, a second, on a smaller scale, +also made its appearance in our neighbourhood, consisting of a +very little man, named _Koo-il-li-ti-uk_, nicknamed by the sailors +"John Bull," and his pretty little wife _Arnal=o=oa_, whose zeal +in bringing up her husband's share of the seahorses I have before +described. These persons, being eight in number, had determined on +travelling to Amitioke for the ensuing summer, influenced +probably, in some degree, by the hope of falling in with us again, +as they knew that we were going in that direction. Be this, +however, as it may, it was soon evident that they intended making +the most of us while we remained neighbours; for, on the 17th, +though the weather was favourable, and they had no food of their +own, they made no effort to procure any, except from the ships, to +which the women brought their _ootkooseeks_ for bread-dust. Though +I objected to encouraging this, and told them we should give them +nothing if they did not also labour for themselves, they were all +such favourites with our people that I believe they found it +answer very well; contriving not only to get plenty of food, but +also a number of useful presents. They made, indeed, some return +for this, by the usual barter of mittens, of which our people were +now furnished with an abundant supply. + +On the 19th, after an impressive sermon delivered by Mr. Fisher, +the last mournful duties were performed over the remains of our +deceased shipmate. Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the +evening of the 21st, when, soon after eight o'clock, Captain Lyon +and his party were seen on their return over the hills, and, being +met by a number of the officers and men from the ships, arrived on +board before ten, when I was happy to find our travellers in good +health, excepting a little snow-blindness and "foot-foundering," +of which they soon recovered. The result of this journey of +Captain Lyon's served to excite very reasonable hopes that he had +seen the northeastern extreme of the great peninsula, round which +we entertained the most sanguine expectations of shortly finding +the desired passage into the Polar Sea. + +On the 23d, our neighbours the Esquimaux, who had long, by their +own account, been setting off for Amitioke, at length began in +earnest to pack up for their departure. As soon as their +preparations were finished, I sent for them all on board, and gave +them one of their own sledges, of which they were much in want, +for carrying their goods, a couple of boarding-pikes, some knives, +and several tin canisters filled with bread-dust, for their +journey. These presents had scarcely been made them, when we had +reason to apprehend so sudden an influx of wealth might produce +serious effects, especially upon the women, whose joy threw them +into immoderate fits of laughter, almost amounting to hysterics, +which were succeeded by a flood of tears. The men seemed thankful, +though less noisy in the expression of their acknowledgments. As +soon as some degree of composure was restored, we accompanied them +to their baggage, which they had stowed on two of the small +travelling sledges given them by Captain Lyon, but which they now +shifted to their own. When all was ready, and some other valuable +presents had been added to their stock by Captain Lyon, they +proceeded to the northward, the women assisting to drag the +sledge, for they had only one large dog and one puppy. On taking +their departure, these good-humoured and ever-cheerful people +greeted us with three cheers in the true Kabloona style, a mode of +salutation they had observed once or twice among us, and +frequently practised for their amusement and ours. On the 24th, we +found they had only proceeded a few miles, as "John Bull" once +more made his appearance on board, and returned to his companions +in the evening. From this specimen of their travelling, of which +we had, as yet, little experience, we had great reason to hope +that their days' journeys would be found but short ones, and that, +therefore, our distance round the northeastern point of the +American continent was not very considerable. The show fell +softer, and more melting was going on to-day than on any before +observed, though only a few black tips of the rocks were yet +visible on shore. The animals now began to appear in greater +numbers; for on the 25th, a flock of nearly two hundred +long-tailed ducks were swimming about in the open water to the +southeast of the point. Some of the Esquimaux who came from the +nearest western village also reported having seen a great many +reindeer; but they had not yet succeeded in killing any. + +At the close of the month of May it was a matter of general +observation, and, of course, of general regret, how few symptoms +of thawing had yet appeared, either on shore or on the ice. +Naturally pursuing our usual comparison with the circumstances of +the former winter passed in these regions, it was impossible not +to recollect that Melville Island had, on the same day two years +before, advanced full as far as the country now before us in +throwing off its winter covering. The parts of the land which were +now the most bare were the smooth round tops of the hills, on +which here and there occurred a little pool of water, from which, +taking all together within half a mile round the ships, we should +at this time have had great difficulty in filling half a tun. +There were also on the lower lands, a few dark uncovered patches, +looking, when viewed from the hills, like islets in an extensive +sea. Vegetation seemed labouring to commence, and a few tufts of +the _saxifraga oppositifolia_, when closely examined, discovered +some signs of life. A botanist, in short, might have considered +vegetation as begun, but in the popular acceptation of the word it +certainly had not. Such was the state of things on shore at the +conclusion of the month of May. Upon the ice appearances were not +more promising. Except in the immediate neighbourhood of the +ships, where, from the constant trampling and the laying of +various stores upon the ice, some heat had artificially been +absorbed, it would have been difficult to point out in what +respect any advances towards dissolution had been made upon the +upper surface, where six or seven inches of snow yet remained in +every part. Here again, without any undue partiality for our old +winter-quarters, it was natural, as well as reasonable, to bear in +mind, that before this time we had there experienced several hours +of hard rain, than which nothing proves more effectual in +dissolving the ice. The consequence was, that for the last week in +May, at Melville Island, the surface of the ice had assumed quite +a green appearance; while here it was still as white as a covering +of snow could make it. + +Under these circumstances I came to the determination, now that +the ships were ready for sea, to try what could be effected +towards their release, by sawing and cutting the ice; for it was +vexatious to see open water daily in the offing, and not to be +able to take advantage of it. Arrangements were therefore made for +getting everything, except the tent and instruments, on board the +next day, and for commencing this more laborious occupation on the +following Monday. + +On the 1st of June, having launched a boat at the mouth of the +bay, I went to sound in that neighbourhood and along the eastern +side of the island, preparatory to marking out the intended canal. +A good deal of ice still remained attached to the land; but as far +as we could distinguish to the N.N.E. there was a lane of clear +water wide enough for the navigation of the ships. + +On the morning of the 3d, at six A.M., both the ships' companies, +under their respective officers, were set to work upon the ice. A +line was accurately marked out from each of the Fury's quarters, +where they were fifty feet apart, diverging to two hundred and +fifty at the edge of the floe, the latter being distant from the +ships two thousand and twenty feet, or just one third of a +nautical mile. It was proposed to make a cut through the ice with +the saws, along the two lines thus marked out, and then a +transverse section here and there, the divergency of the sides +being intended to facilitate the removal of the pieces thus +detached by first pulling them out with strong purchases, and then +floating them down the canal to the sea without. Nothing could +exceed the alacrity with which this laborious work was undertaken, +and continued daily from six in the morning till eight at night, +with the intermission only of mealtimes: nor could anything be +more lively and interesting than the scene which now presented +itself to an observer on the southeast point. The day was +beautifully clear, the sea open as far as the eye could stretch to +the northward, and the "busy hum" of our people's voices could at +times be heard mingling with the cheerful though fantastic songs +with which the Greenland sailors are accustomed at once to beguile +their labour, and to keep the necessary time in the action of +sawing the ice. The whole prospect, together with the hopes and +associations excited by it, was, to persons cooped up as we had +been, exhilarating beyond conception. + +In the course of the first week we had completed the two side +cuts, and also two shorter ones in the space between the ships; +making in all a length of two thousand three hundred feet on each +side of the intended canal, the thickness of the ice being in +general four feet, but in one or two places (where the junction of +the sea-ice with the bay-floe occasioned some squeezing) above ten +feet and a half, scarcely allowing our longest saws to work. +Laborious as this part of the operation had been, we soon found it +likely to prove the least troublesome of the whole; for, on +endeavouring to pull out the pieces in the manner at first +intended, every effort failed, till at length we were reduced to +the necessity of cutting each block diagonally before it could be +moved from its place. After a week's experience, we also learned +that much time had been lost in completing the whole of the +lateral cuts at once; for these, partly from frost, and partly by +the closing together of the sides of the canal, all required +sawing a second, and in some places even a third time. It was +surprising, also, to see how powerful a resistance was occasioned +by the "sludge" produced in sawing, or, as the sailors called it, +the "sawdust," continuing in the cut, and appearing to act, like +oil interposed between two plates of glass, in keeping the masses +united. In some cases, also, a saw was squeezed so tight by the +pressure of the ice in the cut, that it became necessary to enter +a second in order to release it, by sawing out a circular plug of +ice completely round it. Fatiguing as this work proved to the men, +I directed it to be continued to-day, the sea remaining so open on +the outside as to give every encouragement to our exertions. + +One of our people, in walking over the island, met with a swan's +nest, which Captain Lyon went out to see, and made a drawing of +it. It was built of moss-peat, being no less than five feet ten +inches in length, four feet nine inches wide, and two feet deep. +The hole of entrance in the top was eighteen inches wide. Two +eggs, each weighing about eight ounces, were found in the nest, in +which the old birds were also sitting at first, but too wild to be +approached. The eggs are of a cream or brownish white colour, in +some parts a little clouded by a darker tinge. The female +subsequently laid a third egg, and soon afterward both birds +appeared to have wholly deserted the nest. + +In the second week our progress with the canal had been +considerable, it being now completed within two hundred yards of +the Fury's stern. + +At the conclusion of the day's labour on the 19th, we had every +prospect of getting to sea in forty-eight hours more; but, early +on the following morning, when the ebb or northeasterly tide had +made, and was assisted by a breeze from the southward, the whole +body of sea-ice came forcibly in contact with the bay-floe, which +was now so weakened by our cutting as to split the whole way from +the edge up to the Hecla's stern, a little to the westward of the +canal, the latter being almost immediately closed with a +considerable crush, but without affecting the ships which lay +beyond it. The closing of our artificial canal had the effect of +partially opening a natural one at the place where the ice had +just been detached; but, as this was incomplete, coming gradually +up to a point astern of the Hecla, we were at a loss to know on +which of the two our labour would best be employed. An attempt was +first made by four strong purchases, stretched from side to side +across the new crack, to pull the parts together again, and thus +to leave our original canal _in statu quo_. All our power, +however, being insufficient to accomplish this, we commenced with +the saws upon the upper part of the crack, with the intention of +widening it sufficiently for the passage of the ships. In this +work we had made considerable progress, when, towards evening, it +was perceived that _this_ was now closing, and our former canal +reopening by the action of the wind and tide. Relinquishing our +last attempt, therefore, we lost no time in floating some heavy +pieces of ice into the canal, to serve as wedges for keeping the +sides apart, in case of any fresh pressure from without again +disposing them to close. + +At two A.M. on the 21st, the piece of the floe which formed the +separation between the two canals drifted bodily outward, as far +as the rocks at the mouth of the bay and the ice that lay upon +them would permit, taking with it a heavy-grounded mass that lay +near the Hecla, and on which it had before been turning as on a +pile or pivot; shortly after a second mass on the eastern side of +the canal broke off, the separation taking place upon the line +where the ice had been weakened by the sand we had laid upon it. +Our work was now at an end, and we had only to wait for a +northerly or westerly wind to release us from our present +"besetment," for, in fact, it was now nothing more. Directions +were therefore given for closely watching the motion of the ice, +both from the ships as well as by regular visits to the shore at +the end of every watch. + +It now becomes my painful duty to turn from these busy +occupations, where animation, cheerfulness, and hope prevailed, to +the sad and solemn scenes of sickness and death; for with both of +these did it please the Almighty to visit us at this period! +William Souter, quartermaster of the Fury, who, in the early part +of this week, had complained of a slight sickness at the stomach, +and, having been quite relieved, was, in consequence, discharged +to duty, was again, on the morning of the 21st, affected in a +similar manner while on deck. On the 24th, his alarming symptoms +had so much subsided, that increasing hopes were entertained of +his continuing to do well. These flattering appearances, however, +received a sudden check about noon on the 25th, after which time +he began rapidly, though gradually, to droop, and between six and +seven in the evening breathed his last. + +The impossibility of removing Souter from the sick bay, after the +last alarming change took place, rendered his death, or, rather, +the convulsive struggles which for some hours preceded that event, +a dreadful trial to poor Reid, whose state had for some time past +been scarcely better, the difficulty in his breathing having +increased to a most distressing degree. When Souter was dying, +Reid remarked that he should not be long after him; and on the +26th, when Mr. Fisher had attended and prayed with him, he said +that he should go at one bell (half past six), and then enumerated +all his clothes to one of the men, who, at his request, wrote them +down for him. After four o'clock he did not speak, and, gradually +sinking, expired at the time he had mentioned. + +On the 28th, the remains of our deceased shipmates were committed +to the earth, with every solemnity that so mournful an occasion +demanded. They were interred in one grave, on a rising ground a +few hundred yards from the sea to the northeastward of the ships. +A handsome tomb of stone and mortar was built over the spot, +having at one end a stone let in, with the usual information +engraved on it. The sides were plastered with a kind of viscous +clay found in one of the ponds, and the top covered with tufts of +the purple saxifrage. The duties of the ships now permitting it, +Captain Lyon employed his men in building a similar tomb over the +grave of Pringle. + + +END OF VOL. I. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13512 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..56cc332 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #13512 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13512) diff --git a/old/13512-8.txt b/old/13512-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a77f2c --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13512-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9477 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a +Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an +Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 1 (of 2), by Sir William Edward +Parry + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the +Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North +Pole, Volume 1 (of 2) + +Author: Sir William Edward Parry + +Release Date: September 22, 2004 [eBook #13512] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF +A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN +ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 1 (OF 2)*** + + +E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Tony Browne, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions + + + +Transcriber's Note: + The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced long. + The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced short. + These characters do not occur otherwise. + + + + + +THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC +TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, +VOLUME I + +by + +SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S. + +In Two Volumes. + +1844 + + + + + + + +[Illustration CAPTAIN W.E. PARRY R.N.] + + + + +PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT + +The two volumes herewith presented to the public contain an +uninterrupted narrative, in Captain Parry's own words, of the five +voyages made by that distinguished navigator, under the sanction +of the British government, in search of a passage from the eastern +to the western side of the American Continent, through the Arctic +Ocean. Although abbreviated, the curtailment has been effected, +not by any change in the language of the original writer, but +merely by omitting all such details as were not inviting to the +general reader; and, in a word, changing the character of the work +from that of an official report to that of a narrative. The effort +has been to preserve all interesting and amusing particulars; to +record all facts and transactions of importance; to present an +accurate though brief notice of all valuable accessions to +geographic as well as general knowledge, effected in the progress +of the voyages; and, at the same time, to keep the reader's +attention ever on the alert by the rapid and uninterrupted +succession of striking incidents. + +It is hoped that the aim here designated has been accomplished; +and that, in the abridged narrative of Parry's Voyages, there will +be found matter, not only to interest the reader for amusement, +but also to improve. The scenes and adventures recorded by the +navigator are in the highest degree novel and remarkable; and it +cannot be other than profitable to know what perils were +encountered, what courage, firmness, and ingenuity were displayed, +what moral and physical influences were developed, and what +triumphs of human skill were achieved, in the progress of voyages +undertaken solely to advance the interests of science. + +H. & B. + +New-York, May, 1840. + + + + +CONTENTS +of +THE FIRST VOLUME + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110° +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113° 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 68¼°.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE. + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + + + +TECHNICAL TERMS PECULIAR TO THE NAVIGATION AMONG ICE + + +BAY-ICE.--Ice newly formed upon the surface of the sea. The +expression is, however, applied also to ice a foot or two in +thickness. + +BESET.--The situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice. + +BIGHT.--An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name +it is sometimes called. + +BLINK.--A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere, often assuming an +arch-like form, which is generally perceptible over ice or land +covered with snow. The blink of land, as well as that over _large_ +quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast. + +BORE.--The operation of "boring" through loose ice consists in +entering it under a press of sail, and forcing the ship through by +separating the masses. + +CALF.--A mass of ice lying under a floe near its margin, and, when +disengaged from that position, rising with violence to the surface +of the water. See TONGUE. + +CLEAR WATER.--Any part of the sea unencumbered with ice. + +CROW'S NEST.--A small circular house like a cask, fixed at the +masthead, in which the look-out man sits, either to guide the ship +through the ice or to give notice of whales. + +DOCK.--In a floe may be natural or artificial; the former being +simply a small "bight," in which a ship is placed to secure her +from the danger of external pressure; and the latter, a square +space cut out with saws for a similar purpose. + +FIELD.--A sheet of ice generally of great thickness, and of too +great extent to be seen over from a ship's masthead. + +FLINCHING.--The operation of stripping a sea-animal of its skin +and blubber. + +FLOE.--The same as a field, except that its extent can be +distinguished from a ship's masthead. A "bay-floe" is a floe of +ice newly formed. + +FLOE-PIECE.--An expression generally applied to small pieces of +floes, not more than a furlong square. + +A HOLE or POOL of Water.--A small space of "clear water," when the +rest of the sea is covered with ice. + +HUMMOCK.--A mass of ice rising to a considerable height above the +general level of a floe, and forming a part of it. Hummocks are +originally raised by the pressure of floes against each other. + +LAND-ICE.--Ice attached to the land, either in floes or in heavy +grounded masses lying near the shore. + +LANE of Water.--A narrow channel among the masses of ice, through +which a boat or ship may pass. + +LEAD.--A channel through the ice. A ship is said to "take the +right lead" when she follows a channel conducting her into a more +navigable sea, and _vice versâ_. + +MAKING-OFF Blubber.--The operation of putting it into casks. + +NIPPED.--The situation of a ship when forcibly pressed by ice. + +PACK.--A large body of ice, consisting of separate masses, lying +close together, and whose extent cannot be seen. + +PANCAKE-ICE.--Newly formed ice, assuming the peculiar conformation +of numberless patches of "sludge," and giving the surface of the +sea the appearance of a handsome pavement. + +PATCH of Ice.--The same as a pack, but of small dimensions. + +SAILING-ICE.--Ice of which the masses are so much separated as to +allow a ship to sail among them. + +SALLYING a Ship.--The operation of causing her to roll, by the men +running in a body from side to side, so as to relieve her from the +adhesion and friction of the young ice around her. + +SLUDGE.--Ice of the consistence of thick honey, offering little +impediment to a ship while in this state, but greatly favouring +the formation of a "bay-floe." + +STREAM.--A long and narrow, but generally continuous, collection +of loose ice. + +TONGUE.--A mass of ice projecting under water from an iceberg or +floe, and generally distinguishable at a considerable depth of +smooth water. It differs from a "calf" in being fixed to, or a +part of the larger body. + +WATER-SKY.--A dark appearance in the sky, indicating "clear water" +in that direction, and forming a striking contrast with the +"blink" over land or ice. + +YOUNG-ICE.--Nearly the same as "bay-ice," but generally applied to +ice more recently formed than the latter. + + + + +VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +Lieutenant Parry was appointed to the command of his majesty's +ship the Hecla, a bomb of 375 tons, on the 16th of January, 1819; +and the Griper, gun brig, 180 tons, commissioned by Lieutenant +Matthew Liddon, was at the same time directed to put herself under +his orders. The object of the expedition was to attempt the +discovery of a Northwest Passage into the Pacific. The vessels +were rigged after the manner of a bark, as being the most +convenient among the ice, and requiring the smallest number of men +to work them. They were furnished with provisions and stores for +two years; in addition to which, there was a large supply of fresh +meats and soups preserved in tin cases, essence of malt and hops, +essence of spruce, and other extra stores, adapted to cold +climates and a long voyage. The ships were ballasted entirely with +coals; an abundance of warm clothing was allowed, a wolfskin +blanket being supplied to each officer and man, besides a +housing-cloth, similar to that with which wagons are usually +covered, to make a sort of tent on board. Although the finding a +passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was the main object of +the expedition, yet the ascertaining many points of natural +history, geography, &c., was considered a most important object, +never to be lost sight of. After they had passed the latitude of +65° north, they were from time to time to throw overboard a +bottle, closely sealed, containing a paper, stating the date and +position at which it was launched. Whenever they landed on the +northern coast of North America, they were to erect a pole, having +a flag, and bury a bottle at the foot of it, containing an +abstract of their proceedings and future intentions, for the +information of Lieutenant Franklin, who had been sent on a land +expedition to explore that coast from the mouth of the Coppermine +River of Hearne. + +According to the official instructions, the interests of science +were not neglected, and many important facts were made out; among +the most curious, it may be mentioned, that it appears to be +proved that the North Pole is not the coldest point of the Arctic +hemisphere, but that the place where the expedition wintered is +one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +In the beginning of May, 1819, the Hecla and Griper were towed +down the river; the guns and gunner's stores were received on +board on the 6th; and the instruments and chronometers were +embarked on the evening of the 8th, when the two ships anchored at +the Nore. The Griper, being a slower sailer, was occasionally +taken in tow by the Hecla, and they rounded the northern point of +the Orkneys, at the distance of two miles and a half; on Thursday, +the 20th of the same month. + +Nothing of moment occurred for several days; but the wind veered +to the westward on the 30th, and increased to a fresh gale, with +an irregular sea and heavy rain, which brought us under our +close-reefed topsails. At half past one, P.M., we began to cross +the space in which the "Sunken Land of Buss" is laid down in +Steel's chart from England to Greenland; and, in the course of +this and the following day, we tried for soundings several times +without success. + +Early in the morning of the 18th of June, in standing to the +northward, we fell in with the first "stream" of ice we had seen, +and soon after saw several icebergs. At daylight the water had +changed its colour to a dirty brownish tinge. The temperature of +the water was 36½°, being 3° colder than on the preceding night; a +decrease that was probably occasioned by our approach to the ice. +We ran through a narrow part of the stream, and found the ice +beyond it to be "packed" and heavy. The birds were more numerous +than usual; and, besides the fulmar peterels, boatswains, and +kittiwakes, we saw, for the first time, some rotges, dovekies, or +black guillemots, and terns, the latter known best to seamen by +the name of the Greenland swallow. + +On the clearing up of a fog on the morning of the 24th, we saw a +long chain of icebergs, extending several miles, in a N.b.W. and +S.b.E. direction; and, as we approached them, we found a quantity +of "floe-ice" intermixed with them, beyond which, to the westward, +nothing but ice could be seen. At noon we had soundings, with one +hundred and twenty fathoms of line, on a bottom of fine sand, +which makes it probable that most of the icebergs were aground in +this place. In the afternoon we sailed within the edge of the ice, +as much as a light westerly wind would admit, in order to approach +the western land. Some curious effects of atmospheric refraction +were observed this evening, the low ice being at times considerably +raised in the horizon, and constantly altering its appearance. + +The weather being nearly calm on the morning of the 25th, all the +boats were kept ahead, to tow the ships through the ice to the +westward. It remained tolerably open till four P.M., when a +breeze, freshening up from the eastward, caused the ice, through +which we had lately been towing, to close together so rapidly, +that we had scarcely time to hoist up the boats before the ships +were immovably "beset." The clear sea which we had left was about +four miles to the eastward of us, while to the westward nothing +but one extensive field of ice could be seen. It is impossible to +conceive a more helpless situation than that of a ship thus beset, +when all the power that can be applied will not alter the +direction of her head a single degree of the compass. + +A large black whale, being the first, was seen near the ships. It +is usual for these animals to descend head foremost, displaying +the broad fork of their enormous tail above the surface of the +water; but, on this occasion, the ice was so close as not to admit +of this mode of descent, and the fish went down tail foremost, to +the great amusement of our Greenland sailors. + +While in this state a large white bear came near the Griper, and +was killed by her people, but he sunk between the pieces of ice. +This animal had probably been attracted by the smell of some red +herrings which the men were frying at the time. It is a common +practice with the Greenland sailors to take advantage of the +strong sense of smelling which these creatures possess, by +enticing them near the ships in this manner. + +The swell had somewhat subsided on the 29th, but the ships +remained firmly fixed in the ice as before. In the course of the +day we saw land bearing N. 69° W. about thirteen leagues distant, +appearing from the masthead like a group of islands, and situated +near to the entrance of Cumberland Strait: the soundings were one +hundred and thirty-five fathoms; the temperature of the sea at +that depth 30°; that of the surface being the same, and of the air +34°. On the 30th the ice began to slacken a little more about the +ships; and, after two hours' heaving with a hawser on each bow +brought to the capstan and windlass, we succeeded in moving the +Hecla about her own length to the eastward, where alone any clear +sea was visible. The ice continuing to open still more in the +course of the day, we were at length enabled to get both ships +into open water, after eight hours' incessant labour. + +On the 1st and 2d of July, we continued to keep close to the edge +of the ice without perceiving any opening in it. Its outer margin +consisted of heavy detached masses, much washed by the sea, and +formed what is technically called "a pack," this name being given +to ice when so closely connected as not to admit the passage of a +ship between the masses. Within the margin of the pack, it +appeared to consist of heavy and extensive floes, having a bright +ice-blink over them; but no clear water could be discovered to the +westward. The birds, which had hitherto been seen since our first +approach to the ice, were fulmar peterels, little auks, looms, and +a few gulls. + +On the morning of the 3d the wind blew strong from the eastward, +with a short, breaking sea, and thick, rainy weather, which made +our situation for some hours rather an unpleasant one, the ice +being close under our lee. Fortunately, however, we weathered it +by stretching back a few miles to the southward. In the afternoon +the wind moderated, and we tacked again to the northward, crossing +the Arctic circle at four P.M., in the longitude of 57° 27' W. We +passed at least fifty icebergs in the course of the day, many of +them of large dimensions. Towards midnight, the wind having +shifted to the southwest and moderated, another extensive chain of +very large icebergs appeared to the northward: as we approached +them the wind died away, and the ships' heads were kept to the +northward, only by the steerage way given to them by a heavy +southerly swell, which, dashing the loose ice with tremendous +force against the bergs, sometimes raised a white spray over the +latter to the height of more than one hundred feet, and, being +accompanied with a loud noise, exactly resembling the roar of +distant thunder, presented a scene at once sublime and terrific. +We could find no bottom near these icebergs with one hundred and +ten fathoms of line. + +At four A.M. on the 4th we came to a quantity of loose ice, which +lay straggling among the bergs; and as there was a light breeze +from the southward, and I was anxious to avoid, if possible, the +necessity of going to the eastward, I pushed the Hecla into the +ice, in the hope of being able to make our way through it. We had +scarcely done so, however, before it fell calm; when the ship +became perfectly unmanageable, and was for some time at the mercy +of the swell, which drifted us fast towards the bergs. All the +boats were immediately sent ahead to tow; and the Griper's signal +was made not to enter the ice. After two hours' hard pulling, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla back again into clear water, and to +a sufficient distance from the icebergs, which it is very +dangerous to approach when there is a swell. At noon we were in +lat. 69° 50' 47", long. 57° 07' 56", being near the middle of the +narrowest part of Davis's Strait, which is here not more than +fifty leagues across. + +On the 5th it was necessary to pass through some heavy streams of +ice, in order to avoid the loss of time by going round to the +eastward. On this, as on many other occasions, the advantage +possessed by a ship of considerable weight in the water, in +separating the heavy masses of ice, was Very apparent. In some of +the streams through which the Hecla passed, a vessel of a hundred +tons less burden must have been immovably beset. The Griper was on +this and many other occasions only enabled to follow the Hecla by +taking advantage of the openings made by the latter. + +A herd of seahorses being seen lying on a piece of ice, our boat +succeeded in killing one of them. These animals usually lie +huddled together like pigs, one over the other, and are so +stupidly tame as to allow a boat to approach them within a few +yards without moving. When at length they are disturbed, they dash +into the water in great confusion. It may be worth remarking, as a +proof how tenacious the walrus sometimes is of life, that the +animal killed to-day struggled violently for ten minutes after it +was struck, and towed the boat twenty or thirty yards, after which +the iron of the harpoon broke; and yet it was found, on +examination, that the iron barb had penetrated both auricles of +the heart. A quantity of the blubber was put into casks, as a +winter's supply of lamp-oil. + +A large bear being seen on a piece of ice, near which we were +passing on the 10th, a boat was despatched in pursuit, and our +people succeeded in killing and towing it on board. As these +animals sink immediately on being mortally wounded, some dexterity +is requisite to secure them, by first throwing a rope over the +neck, at which many of the Greenland seamen are remarkably expert. +It is customary for the boats of the whalers to have two or three +lines coiled in them, which not only gives them great stability, +but, with good management, makes it difficult for a bear, when +swimming, to put his paw upon the gunwale, which they generally +endeavour to do; whereas, with our boats, which are more light and +crank, and therefore very easily heeled over, I have more than +once seen a bear on the point of taking possession of them. Great +caution should therefore be used under such circumstances in +attacking these ferocious creatures. We have always found a +boarding-pike the most useful weapon for this purpose. The lance +used by the whalers will not easily penetrate the skin, and a +musket-ball, except when very close, is scarcely more efficacious. + +On the 17th, the margin of the ice appearing more open than we had +yet seen it, and there being some appearance of a "water-sky" to +the northwest, I was induced to run the ships into the ice, though +the weather was too thick to allow us to see more than a mile or +two in that direction. We were, at noon, in latitude 72° 00' 21", +longitude 59° 43' 04", the depth of water being one hundred and +ninety fathoms, on a muddy bottom. The wind shortly after died +away, as usual, and, after making a number tacks, in order to gain +all we could to the westward, we found ourselves so closely, +hemmed in by the ice on every side, that there was no longer room +to work the ships, and we therefore made them fast to a floe till +the weather should clear up. The afternoon was employed in taking +on board a supply of water from the floe. It may be proper at once +to remark that, from this time till the end of the voyage, +snow-water was exclusively made use of on board the ships for +every purpose. During the summer months, it is found in abundance +in the pools upon the floes and icebergs; and in the winter, snow +was dissolved in the coppers for our daily consumption. The fog +cleared away in the evening, when we perceived that no farther +progress could be made through the ice, into which we sailed to +the westward about twelve miles. We were therefore once more under +the necessity of returning to the eastward, lest a change of wind +should beset the ships in their present situation. + +A thick fog came on again at night, and prevailed till near noon +on the 18th, when we came to a close but narrow stream of ice, +lying exactly across our course, and at right angles to the main +body of the ice. As this stream extended to the eastward as far as +we could see from the "crow's nest," an endeavour was made to push +the ships with all sail through the narrowest part. The facility +with which this operation, technically called "boring," is +performed, depends chiefly on having a fresh and free wind, with +which we were not favoured on this occasion; so that, when we had +forced the ships about one hundred yards into the ice, their way +was completely stopped. The stream consisted of such small pieces +of ice, that, when an attempt was made to warp the ships ahead by +fastening lines to some of the heaviest masses near them, the ice +itself came home, without the ships being moved forward.--Every +effort to extricate them from this helpless situation proved +fruitless for more than two hours, when the Hecla was at length +backed out, and succeeded in pushing through another part of the +stream in which a small opening appeared just at that moment. All +our boats were immediately despatched to the assistance of the +Griper, which still remained beset, and which no effort could move +in any direction We at length resorted to the expedient of sending +a whale-line to her from the Hecla, and then, making all sail upon +the latter ship, we succeeded in towing her out, head to wind, +till she was enabled to proceed in clear water. The crossing of +this stream of ice, of which, the breadth scarcely exceeded three +hundred yards, occupied us constantly for more than five hours, +and may serve as an example of the detention to which ships are +liable in this kind of navigation. + +Early on the morning of the 21st the fog cleared away, and +discovered to us the land called by Davis, Hope Sanderson and the +Woman's Islands, being the first land we had seen in sailing +northward into Baffin's Bay, from the lat. of 63¾°. We found +ourselves in the midst of a great number of very high icebergs, of +which I counted, from the crow's-nest, eighty-eight, besides many +smaller ones. + +Having now reached the latitude of 73° without seeing a single +opening in the ice, and being unwilling to increase our distance +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound by proceeding much farther to the +northward, I determined once more to enter the ice in this place, +and to try the experiment of forcing our way through it, in order +to get into the open sea. Being therefore favoured with clear +weather, and a moderate breeze from the southeastward, we ran into +the ice, which for the first two miles consisted of detached +pieces, but afterward of floes of considerable extent, and six or +seven feet in thickness. The wind died away towards midnight, and +the weather was serene and clear. + +At six A.M. on the 23d, a thick fog came on, which rendered it +impossible to see our way any farther. We therefore warped to an +iceberg, to which the ships were made fast at noon, to wait the +clearing up of the fog, being in lat. 73° 04' 10", long. 60° 11' +30". At eight P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few small pools +of open water were seen here and there, but the ice was generally +as close as before, and the wind being to the westward of north, +it was not deemed advisable to move. + +The weather, being clear in the morning of the 25th, and a few +narrow lanes of water appearing to the westward, the Griper was +made fast astern of the Hecla; and her crew being sent to assist +in manning our capstan, we proceeded to warp the ships through the +ice. This method, which is often adopted by our whalers, has the +obvious advantage of applying the whole united force in separating +the masses of ice which lie in the way of the first ship, allowing +the second, or even third, to follow close astern, with very +little obstruction. In this manner we had advanced about four +miles to the westward by eight P.M., after eleven hours of very +laborious exertion; and having then come to the end of the clear +water, and the weather being again foggy, the ships were secured +in a deep "bight," or bay in a floe, called by the sailors a +"natural dock." + +Early on the morning of the 26th there was clear water as far as +we could see to the westward, which, on account of the fog, did +not exceed the distance of three hundred yards. We made sail, +however, and having groped our way for about half a mile, found +the ice once more close in every direction except that in which we +had been sailing, obliging us to make the ships fast to a floe. At +half past three P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few narrow +lanes of water being seen to the westward, every exertion was +immediately made to get into them. On beginning to heave, however, +we found that the "hole" of water in which the Hecla lay was now +so completely enclosed by ice that no passage out of it could be +found. We tried every corner, but to no purpose; all the power we +could apply being insufficient to move the heavy masses of ice +which had fixed themselves firmly between us and the lanes of +water without. In the mean time, Lieutenant Liddon had succeeded +in advancing about three hundred yards, and had placed the +Griper's bow between two heavy floes, which it was necessary to +separate before any farther progress could be made. Both ships +continued to heave at their hawsers occasionally, as the ice +appeared to slacken a little, by which means they were now and +then drawn ahead a few inches at a time, but did not advance more +than half a dozen yards in the course of the night. By our nearing +several bergs to the northward, the ice appeared to be drifting in +that direction, the wind being moderate from the southward. + +About three A.M., Tuesday, 27th, by a sudden motion of the ice, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla out of her confined situation, and +ran her up astern of the Griper. The clear water had made so much +to the westward, that a narrow neck of ice was all that was now +interposed between the ships and a large open space in that +quarter. Both ships' companies were therefore ordered upon the ice +to saw off the neck, when the floes suddenly opened sufficiently +to allow the Griper to push through under all sail. No time was +lost in the attempt to get the Hecla through after her; but, by +one of those accidents to which this navigation is liable, and +which render it so precarious and uncertain, a piece of loose ice, +which lay between the two ships, was drawn after the Griper by the +eddy produced by her motion, and completely blocked the narrow +passage through which we were about to follow. Before we could +remove this obstruction by hauling it back out of the channel, the +floes were again pressed together, wedging it firmly and immovably +between them: the saws were immediately set to work, and used with +great effect; but it was not till eleven o'clock that we +succeeded, after seven hours' labour, in getting the Hecla into +the lanes of clear water which opened more and more to the +westward. + +On the 29th we had so much clear water, that the ships had a very +perceptible pitching motion, which, from the closeness of the ice, +does not very often occur in the Polar regions, and which is +therefore hailed with pleasure as an indication of an open sea. At +five P.M. the swell increased considerably, and, as the wind +freshened up from the northeast, the ice gradually disappeared; so +that by six o'clock we were sailing in an open sea, perfectly free +from obstruction of any kind. + +We now seemed all at once to have got into the headquarters of the +whales. They were so numerous that I directed the number to be +counted during each watch, and no less than eighty-two are +mentioned in this day's log. Mr. Allison, the Greenland master, +considered them generally as large ones, and remarked that a fleet +of whalers might easily have obtained a cargo here in a few days. +In the afternoon the wind broke us of from the N.N.W., which +obliged us to cast off the Griper, and we carried all sail ahead +to make the land. We saw it at half past five P.M., being the high +land about Possession Bay, and at the same time several streams of +loose but heavy ice came in sight, which a fresh breeze was +drifting fast to the southeastward. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze on the morning of the 31st, +which prevented our making much way to the westward. We stood in +towards Cape Byam Martin, and sounded in eighty fathoms on a rocky +bottom, at the distance of two miles in an east direction from it. +We soon after discovered the flagstaff which had been erected on +Possession Mount on the former expedition; an object which, though +insignificant in itself, called up every person immediately on +deck to look at and to greet it as an old acquaintance. + +The land immediately at the hack of Possession Bay rises in a +gentle slope from the sea, presenting an open and extensive space +of low ground, flanked by hills to the north and south. In this +valley, and even on the hills, to the height of six or seven +hundred feet above the sea, there was scarcely any snow, but the +mountains at the back were completely covered with it. Some pieces +of birch-bark having been picked up in the bed of this stream in +1818, which gave reason to suppose that wood might be found +growing in the interior, I directed Mr. Fisher to walk up it, +accompanied by a small party, and to occupy an hour or two while +the Griper was coming up, and Captain Sabine and myself were +employed upon the beach, in examining the nature and productions +of the country. + +Mr. Fisher reported, on his return, that he had followed the +stream between three and four miles, where it turned to the +southwest, without discovering any indications of a wooded +country; but a sufficient explanation respecting the birch-bark +was perhaps furnished by his finding, at the distance of a quarter +of a mile from the sea, a piece of whalebone two feet ten inches +in length and two inches in breadth, having a number of circular +holes very neatly and regularly perforated along one of its edges, +which had undoubtedly formed part of an Esquimaux sledge. This +circumstance affording a proof of the Esquimaux having visited +this part of the coast at no very distant period, it was concluded +that the piece of bark above alluded to had been brought hither by +these people. From the appearance of the whalebone, it might have +been lying there for four or five years. That none of the +Esquimaux tribe had visited this part of the coast since we landed +there in 1818, was evident from the flagstaff then erected still +remaining untouched. Mr. Fisher found every part of the valley +quite free from snow as high as he ascended it: and the following +fact seems to render it probable that no great quantity either of +snow or sleet had fallen here since our last visit. Mr. Fisher had +not proceeded far, till, to his great surprise, he encountered the +tracks of human feet upon the banks of the stream, which appeared +so fresh that he at first imagined them to have been recently made +by some natives, but which, on examination, were distinctly +ascertained to be the marks of our own shoes, made eleven months +before. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +We were now about to enter and to explore that great sound or +inlet which has obtained a degree of celebrity beyond what it +might otherwise have been considered to possess, from the very +opposite opinions which have been held with regard to it. To us it +was peculiarly interesting, as being the point to which our +instructions more particularly directed our attention; and I may +add, what I believe we all felt, it was that point of the voyage +which was to determine the success or failure of the expedition, +according as one or other of the opposite opinions alluded to +should be corroborated. It will readily be conceived, then, how +great our anxiety was for a change of the westerly wind and swell, +which, on the 1st of August, set down Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +and prevented our making much progress. Several whales were seen +in the course of the day, and Mr. Allison remarked that this was +the only part of Baffin's Bay in which he had ever seen young +whales; for it is a matter of surprise to the whalers in general, +that they seldom or never meet with young ones on this fishery, as +they are accustomed to do in the seas of Spitzbergen. + +The Griper continued to detain us so much, that I determined on +making the best of our way to the westward, and ordered the Hecla +to be hove to in the evening, and sent Lieutenant Liddon an +instruction, with some signals, which might facilitate our meeting +in case of fog; and I appointed as a place of rendezvous the +meridian of 85° west, and as near the middle of the sound as +circumstances would permit. As soon, therefore, as the boat +returned from the Griper, we carried a press of sail, and in the +course of the evening saw the northern shore of the sound looming +through the clouds which hung over it. + +The weather being clear in the evening of the 2d, we had the first +distinct view of both sides of the sound; and the difference in +the character of the two shores was very apparent; that on the +south consisting of high and peaked mountains, completely +snow-clad, except on the lower parts, while the northern coast has +generally a smoother outline, and had, comparatively with the +other, little snow upon it; the difference in this last respect +appearing to depend principally on the difference in their +absolute height. The sea was open before us, free from ice or +land; and the Hecla pitched so much from the westerly swell in the +course of the day, as to throw the water once or twice into the +stern windows; a circumstance which, together with other +appearances, we were willing to attribute to an open sea in the +desired direction. More than forty black whales were seen during +the day. + +We made little way on the 3d, but being favoured at length by the +easterly breeze which was bringing up the Griper, and for which we +had long been looking with much impatience, a crowd of sail was +set to carry us with all rapidity to the westward. It is more easy +to imagine than to describe the almost breathless anxiety which +was now visible in every countenance, while, as the breeze +continued to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The +mastheads were crowded by the officers and men during the whole +afternoon; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been +unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the +eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's-nest were +received; all, however, hitherto favourable to our most sanguine +hopes. + +Our course was nearly due west, and the wind still continuing to +freshen, took us in a few hours nearly out of sight of the Griper. +The only ice which we met with consisted of a few large bergs very +much washed by the sea; and the weather being remarkably clear, so +as to enable us to run with perfect safety, we were by midnight, +in a great measure, relieved from our anxiety respecting the +supposed continuity of land at the bottom of this magnificent +inlet, having reached the longitude of 83° 12', where the two +shores are still above thirteen leagues apart, without the +slightest appearance of any land to the westward of us for four or +five points of the compass. + +Having made the ship snug, so as to be in readiness to round to +should the land be seen ahead, and the Griper having come up +within a few miles of us, we again bore up at one A.M., the 4th. +At half past three, Lieutenant Beechey, who had relieved me on +deck, discovered from the crow's-nest a reef of rocks, in-shore of +us to the northward, on which the sea was breaking. The cliffs on +this part of the coast present a singular appearance, being +stratified horizontally, and having a number of regular projecting +masses of rock, broad at the bottom, and coming to a point at the +top, resembling so many buttresses, raised by art at equal +intervals. + +After lying-to for an hour, we again bore up to the westward, and +soon after discovered a cape, afterward named by Captain Sabine, +CAPE FELLFOOT, which appeared to form the termination of this +coast; and as the haze, which still prevailed to the south, +prevented our seeing any land in that quarter, and the sea was +literally as free from ice as any part of the Atlantic, we began +to flatter ourselves that we had fairly entered the Polar Sea, and +some of the most sanguine among us had even calculated the bearing +and distance of Icy Cape, as a matter of no very difficult or +improbable accomplishment. This pleasing prospect was rendered the +more flattering by the sea having, as we thought, regained the +usual oceanic colour, and by a long swell which was rolling in +from the southward and eastward. At six P.M., however, land was +reported to be seen ahead. The vexation and anxiety produced on +every countenance by such a report were but too visible, until, on +a nearer approach, it was found to be only an island, of no very +large extent, and that, on each side of it, the horizon still +appeared clear for several points of the compass. At eight P.M. we +came to some ice of no great breadth or thickness, extending +several miles in a direction nearly parallel to our course; and as +we could see clear water over it to the southward, I was for some +time in the hope that it would prove a detached stream, from which +no obstruction to our progress westerly was to be apprehended. At +twenty minutes past ten, however, the weather having become hazy +and the wind light, we perceived that the ice, along which we had +been sailing for the last two hours, was joined, at the distance +of half a mile to the westward of us, to a compact and impenetrable +body of floes, which lay across the whole breadth of the strait, +formed by the island and the western point of Maxwell Bay. We +hauled our wind to the northward, just in time to avoid being +embayed in the ice, on the outer edge of which a considerable surf, +the effect of the late gale, was then rolling. + +While the calm and thick weather lasted, a number of the officers +and men amused themselves in the boats, in endeavouring to kill +some of the white whales which were swimming about the ships in +great numbers; but the animals were so wary, that they would +scarcely suffer the boats to approach them within thirty or forty +yards without diving. Mr. Fisher described them to be generally +from eighteen to twenty feet in length; and he stated that he had +several times heard them emit a shrill, ringing sound, not unlike +that of musical glasses when badly played; This sound, he farther +observed, was most distinctly heard when they happened to swim +directly beneath the boat, even when they were several feet under +water, and ceased altogether on their coming to the surface. We +saw also, for the first time, one or two shoals of narwhals, +called by the sailors sea-unicorns. + +A steady breeze springing up from the W.N.W. in the afternoon, the +ships stood to the northward till we had distinctly made out that +no passage to the westward could at present be found between the +ice and the land. The weather having become clear about this time, +we perceived that there was a large open space to the southward, +where no land was visible; and for this opening, over which there +was a dark water-sky, our course was now directed. + +Since the time when we first entered Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +the sluggishness of the compasses, as well as the amount of their +irregularity produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, had +been found very rapidly, though uniformly, to increase as we +proceeded to the westward; so much, indeed, that, for the last two +days, we had been under the necessity of giving up altogether the +usual observations for determining the variation of the needle on +board the ships. This irregularity became more and more obvious as +we now advanced to the southward, which rendered it not improbable +that we were making a very near approach to the magnetic pole. For +the purposes of navigation, therefore, the compasses were from +this time no longer consulted; and in a few days afterward, the +binnacles were removed as useless lumber from the deck to the +carpenter's storeroom, where they remained during the rest of the +season. + +A dark sky to the southwest had given us hopes of finding a +westerly passage to the south of the ice along which we were now +sailing; more especially as the inlet began to widen considerably +as we advanced in that direction: but at three A.M. on the morning +of the 8th, we perceived that the ice ran close in with a point of +land bearing S.b.E. from us, which appeared to form the southern +extremity of the eastern shore. + +With the increasing width of the inlet we had flattered ourselves +with increasing hopes; but we soon experienced the mortification +of disappointment. The prospect from the crow's-nest began to +assume a very unpromising appearance, the whole of the western +horizon, from north round to S.b.E., being completely covered with +ice, consisting of heavy and extensive floes, beyond which no +indication of water was visible; instead of which there was a +bright and dazzling iceblink extending from shore to shore. The +western coast of the inlet, however, trended much more to the +westward than before, and no land was visible to the southwest, +though the horizon was so clear in that quarter, that, if any had +existed of moderate height, it might have been easily seen at this +time at the distance of ten or twelve leagues. From these +circumstances, the impression received at the time was, that the +land, both on the eastern and western side of this inlet, would be +one day found to consist of islands. + +A breeze sprung up from the northward on the morning of the 12th, +but the weather was so foggy for some hours that we did not know +in what direction it was blowing. As soon as the fog cleared away, +so as to enable us to see a mile or two around us, we found that +the floe to which we had anchored was drifting fast down upon +another body of ice to leeward, threatening to enclose the ships +between them. We therefore cast off and made sail, in order to +beat to the northward, which we found great difficulty in doing, +owing to the quantity of loose ice with which this part of the +inlet was now covered. A remarkably thick fog obscured the eastern +land from our view this evening at the distance of five or six +miles, while the western coast was distinctly visible at four +times that distance. + +The weather was beautifully calm and clear on the 13th, when, +being near an opening in the eastern shore, I took the opportunity +of examining it in a boat. It proved to be a bay, a mile wide at +its entrance, and three miles deep in an E.b.S. direction, having +a small but snug cove on the north side, formed by an island, +between which and the main land is a bar of rocks, which +completely shelters the cove from sea or drift ice. We found the +water so deep, that in rowing close along the shore we could +seldom get bottom with seven fathoms of line. The cliffs on the +south side of this bay, to which I gave the name of PORT BOWEN, +resemble, in many places, ruined towers and battlements; and +fragments of the rocks were constantly falling from above. At the +head of the bay is an extensive piece of low flat ground, +intersected by numerous rivulets, which, uniting at a short +distance from the beach, formed a deep and rapid stream, near the +mouth of which we landed. This spot was, I think, the most barren +I ever saw, the ground being almost entirely covered with small +pieces of slaty limestone, among which no vegetation appeared for +more than a mile, to which distance Mr. Ross and myself walked +inland, following the banks of the stream. Among the fragments we +picked up one piece of limestone, on which was the impression of a +fossil-shell. We saw here a great number of young black +guillemots, and a flock of ducks, which we supposed to be of the +eider species. + +The narwhals were here very numerous; these animals appear fond of +remaining with their backs exposed above the surface of the water, +in the same manner as the whale, but for a much longer time, and +we frequently also observed their horns erect, and quite +stationary for several minutes together. + +The whole of the 14th was occupied in an unsuccessful attempt to +find an opening in the ice to the westward, which remained +perfectly close and compact, with a bright iceblink over it. + +The ice continued in the same unfavourable state on the 15th; and +being desirous of turning to some account this vexatious but +unavoidable detention, I left the ship, accompanied by Captain +Sabine and Mr. Hooper, in order to make some observations on +shore, and directed Lieutenant Liddon to send a boat from the +Griper for the same purpose. We landed in one of the numerous +valleys or ravines which occur on this part of the coast, and at a +few miles' distance very much resemble bays, being bounded by high +hills that have the appearance of bluff headlands. We ascended +with some difficulty the hill on the south side of the ravine, +which is very steep, and covered with innumerable detached blocks +of limestone, some of which are constantly rolling down from +above, and afford a very insecure footing. From the top of this +hill, which is about six or seven feet above the level of the sea, +and commands an extensive view to the westward, the prospect was +by no means favourable to the immediate accomplishment of our +object. No water could be seen over the ice to the northwest, and +a bright and dazzling blink covered the whole space comprised +between the islands and the north shore. It was a satisfaction, +however, to find that no _land_ appeared which was likely to +impede our progress; and we had been too much accustomed to the +obstruction occasioned by ice, and too well aware of the +suddenness with which that obstruction is often removed, to be at +all discouraged by present appearances. + +On the top of this hill we deposited a bottle containing a short +notice of our visit, and raised over it a small mound of stones; +of these we found no want, for the surface was covered with small +pieces of schistose limestone, and nothing like soil or vegetation +could be seen. + +On the 17th we had a fresh breeze from the S.S.W., with so thick a +fog that, in spite of the most unremitting attention to the sails +and the steerage, the ships were constantly receiving heavy shocks +from the loose masses of ice with which the sea was covered, and +which, in the present state of the weather, could not be +distinguished at a sufficient distance to avoid them. On the +weather clearing up in the afternoon, we saw for the first time a +remarkable bluff headland, which forms the northeastern point of +the entrance into Prince Regent's Inlet, and to which I gave the +name of CAPE YORK. A little to the eastward of Cape Fellfoot, we +observed six stripes of snow near the top of the cliff, being very +conspicuous at a great distance, when viewed from the southward. +These stripes, which are formed by the drift of snow between the +buttress-like projections before described, and which remained +equally conspicuous on our return the following year, have +probably at all times much the same appearance, at least about +this season of the year, and may, on this account, perhaps, be +deemed worthy of notice as a landmark. + +There being still no prospect of getting a single mile to the +westward, in the neighbourhood of Prince Leopold's Islands, and a +breeze having freshened up from the eastward in the afternoon, I +determined to stand over once more towards the northern shore, in +order to try what could there be done towards effecting our +passage; and at nine P.M., after beating for several hours among +floes and streams of ice, we got into clear water near that coast, +where we found some swell from the eastward. There was just light +enough at midnight to enable us to read and write in the cabin. + +The wind and sea increased on the 19th, with a heavy fall of snow, +which, together with the uselessness of the compasses, and the +narrow space in which we were working between the ice and the +land, combined to make our situation for several hours a very +unpleasant one. + +On the 21st we had nothing to impede our progress but the want of +wind, the great opening through, which we had hitherto proceeded +from Baffin's Bay being now so perfectly clear of ice, that it was +impossible to believe it to be the same part of the sea, which, +but a day or two before, had been completely covered with floes to +the utmost extent of our view. In the forenoon we picked up a +small piece of wood, which appeared to have been the end of a +boat's yard, and which caused sundry amusing speculations among +our gentlemen; some of whom had just come to the very natural +conclusion that a ship had been here before us, and that, +therefore, we were not entitled to the honour of the first +discovery of that part of the sea on which we were now sailing; +when a stop was suddenly put to this and other ingenious +inductions by the information of one of the seamen, that he had +dropped it out of his boat a fortnight before. I could not get him +to recollect exactly the day on which it had been dropped, but +what he stated was sufficient to convince me that we were not at +that time more than ten or twelve leagues from our present +situation; perhaps not half so much; and that, therefore, here was +no current setting constantly in any one direction. + +We perceived, as we proceeded, that the land along which we were +sailing, and which, with the exception of some small inlets, had +appeared to be hitherto continuous from Baffin's Bay, began now to +trend much to the northward, beyond Beechey Island, leaving a +large open space between that coast and the distant land to the +westward, which now appeared like an island, of which the extremes +to the north and south were distinctly visible. The latter was a +remarkable headland, having at its extremity two small table-hills, +somewhat resembling boats turned bottom upward, and was named +CAPE HOTHAM. At sunset we had a clear and extensive view to the +northward, between Cape Hotham and the eastern land. On the +latter, several headlands were discovered and named; between the +northernmost of these, called CAPE BOWDEN, and the island to the +westward, there was a channel of more than eight leagues in width, +in which neither land nor ice could be seen from the masthead. To +this noble channel I gave the name of WELLINGTON. The arrival off +this grand opening was an event for which we had long been looking +with much anxiety and impatience; for the continuity of land to +the northward had always been a source of uneasiness to us, +principally from the possibility that it might take a turn to the +southward and unite with the coast of America. The appearance of +this broad opening, free from ice, and of the land on each side of +it, more especially that on the west, leaving scarcely a doubt on +our minds of the latter being an island, relieved us from all +anxiety on that score; and every one felt that we were now finally +disentangled from the land which forms the western side of +Baffin's Bay; and that, in fact, we had actually entered the Polar +Sea. + +Though two thirds of the month of August had now elapsed, I had +every reason to be satisfied with the progress which we had +hitherto made. I calculated upon the sea being navigable for six +weeks to come, and probably more, if the state of the ice would +permit us to edge away to the southward in our progress westerly: +our prospects, indeed, were truly exhilarating; the ships had +suffered no injury; we had plenty of provisions; crews in high +health and spirits; a sea, if not open, at least navigable; and a +zealous and unanimous determination, in both officers and men, to +accomplish, by all possible means, the grand object on which we +had the happiness to be employed. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110° +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +A calm which prevailed during the night kept us quite stationary +till three A.M. on the 23d, when a fresh breeze sprung up from the +northward, and all sail was made for Cape Hotham, to the southward +of which it was now my intention to seek a direct passage towards +Behring's Strait. Wellington Channel, to the northward of us, was +as open and navigable to the utmost extent of our view as any part +of the Atlantic; but as it lay at right angles to our coarse, and +there was still an opening at least ten leagues wide to the +southward of Cornwallis Island, I could have no hesitation in +deciding which of the two it was our business to pursue. It is +impossible to conceive anything more animating than the quick and +unobstructed run with which we were favoured, from Beechey Island +across to Cape Hotham. Most men have, probably, at one time or +another, experienced that elevation of spirits which is usually +produced by rapid motion of any kind; and it will readily be +conceived how much this feeling was heightened in us, in the few +instances in which it occurred, by the slow and tedious manner in +which the greater part of our navigation had been performed in +these seas. + +At noon we had reached the longitude of 94° 43' 15", the latitude +by observation being 74° 20' 52", when we found that the land +which then formed the western extreme on this side was a second +island, which I called GRIFFITH ISLAND. The ice in this +neighbourhood was covered with innumerable "hummocks," and the +floes were from seven to ten feet in thickness. + +After various unsuccessful attempts to get through the ice which +now lay in our way, we were at length so fortunate as to +accomplish this object by "boring" through a number of heavy +"streams," which occasioned the ships to receive many severe +shocks; and, at half an hour before midnight, we were able to, +pursue our course, through "sailing ice," to the westward. + +The weather was at this time remarkably serene and clear; and +although we saw a line of ice to the southward of us, lying in a +direction nearly east and west, or parallel to the course on which +we were steering, and some more land appeared to the westward, yet +the space of open water was still so broad, and the prospect from +the masthead, upon the whole, so flattering, that I thought the +chances of our separation had now become greater than before; and +I therefore considered it right to furnish Lieutenant Liddon with +fresh instructions, and to appoint some new place of rendezvous in +case of unavoidable separation from the Hecla. At ten o'clock, +after having had a clear view of the ice and of the land about +sunset, and finding that there was at present no passage to the +westward, we hauled off to the southeast, in the hope of finding +some opening in the ice to the southward, by which we might get +round in the desired direction. We were encouraged in this hope by +a dark "water-sky" to the southward; but, after running along the +ice till half past eleven without perceiving any opening, we again +bore up. There was in this neighbourhood a great deal of that +particular kind of ice called by the sailors "dirty ice," on the +surface of which were strewed sand, stones, and, in some +instances, moss: ice of this kind must, of course, at one time or +other, have been in close contact with the land. + +At ten A.M. I despatched Captain Sabine and Mr. Ross to the +eastern point of the island, which we were about to round in the +ships, in order to make the necessary observations, and to examine +the natural productions of the shore. Our latitude at noon was 75° +03' 12", long. 103° 44' 37", and the depth of water forty fathoms. +The gentlemen reported, on their return, that they had landed on a +sandy beach, near the east point of the island, which they found +to be more productive, and altogether more interesting, than any +other part of the shores of the Polar regions which we had yet +visited. The remains of Esquimaux habitations were found in four +different places. Six of these, which Captain Sabine had an +opportunity of examining, and which are situated on a level sandy +bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea, are described by +him as consisting of stones rudely placed in a circular, or, +rather, an elliptical form. They were from seven to ten feet in +diameter; the broad, flat sides of the stones standing vertically, +and the whole structure, if such it may be called, being exactly +similar to that of the summer huts of the Esquimaux which we had +seen at Hare Island the preceding year. Attached to each of them +was a smaller circle, generally four or five feet in diameter, +which had probably been the fireplace. The small circles were +placed indifferently as to their direction from the huts to which +they belonged; and from the moss and sand which covered some of +the lower stones, particularly those which composed the flooring +of the huts, the whole encampment appeared to have been deserted +for several years. Very recent traces of the reindeer and musk-ox +were seen in many places; and a head of the latter, with several +reindeers' horns, was brought on board. A few patches of snow +remained in sheltered situations; the ravines, however, which were +numerous, bore the signs of recent and considerable floods, and +their bottoms were swampy, and covered with very luxuriant moss +and other vegetation, the character of which differed very little +from that of the land at the bottom of Possession Bay. + +The dip of the magnetic needle was 88° 25' 58", and the variation +was now found to have changed from 128° 58' west, in the longitude +of 91° 48', where our last observations on shore had been made, to +165° 50' 09" east, at our present station; so that we had, in +sailing over the space included between those two meridians, +crossed immediately to the northward of the magnetic pole and had +undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon the globe where +the needle would have been found to vary 180°, or, in other words, +where its north pole would have pointed due south. + +The wind became very light from the eastward, and the weather +continued so foggy that nothing could be done during the night but +to stand off-and-on, by the soundings, between the ice and the +land. On the 29th, after a few hours of clear weather, the fog +came on again as thick as before; fortunately, however, we had +previously been enabled to take notice of several pieces of ice, +by steering for each of which in succession we came to the edge of +a floe, along which our course was to be pursued to the westward. +As long as we had this guidance, we advanced with great +confidence; but as soon as we came to the end of the floe, which +then turned off to the southward, the circumstances under which we +were sailing were perhaps such as have never occurred since the +early days of navigation. To the northward was the land; the ice, +as we supposed, to the southward; the compasses useless; and the +sun completely obscured by a fog so thick, that the Griper could +only now and then be seen at a cable's length astern. We had +literally, therefore, no mode, of regulating our course but by +once more trusting to the steadiness of the wind; and it was not a +little amusing, as well as novel, to see the quartermaster conning +the ship by looking at the dogvane. + +The weather cleared a little at intervals, but not enough to +enable us to proceed till nine A.M. on the 31st, when we cast off +from the ice, with a very light air from the northward. We +occasionally caught a glimpse of land through the heavy fog-banks +with which the horizon was covered, which was sufficient to give +us an idea of the true direction in which we ought to steer. Soon +after noon we were once more enveloped in a fog, which, however, +was not so thick as to prevent our having recourse to a new +expedient for steering the ships, which circumstances at the time +naturally suggested to our minds. Before the fog recommenced, and +while we were sailing on the course which, by the bearings of the +land, we knew to be the right one, the Griper was exactly astern +of the Hecla, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile. The +weather being fortunately not so thick as to prevent our still +seeing her at that distance, the quartermaster was directed to +stand aft, near the taffrail, and to keep her constantly astern of +us, by which means we contrived to steer a tolerably straight +course to the westward. The Griper, on the other hand, naturally +kept the Hecla right ahead; and thus, however ridiculous it may +appear, it is nevertheless true, that we steered one ship entirely +by the other for a distance of ten miles out of sixteen and a +half, which we sailed between one and eleven P.M. + +The wind died away on the morning of the 1st of September, and the +fog was succeeded by snow and sleet, which still rendered the +atmosphere extremely thick. At a quarter before four A.M., I was +informed by the officer of the watch that a breeze had sprung up, +and that there was very little ice near the ships. Anxious to take +advantage of these favourable circumstances, I directed all sail +to be made to the westward: there was no difficulty in complying +with the first part of this order; but to ascertain which way the +wind was blowing, and to which quarter of the horizon the ship's +head was to be directed, was a matter of no such easy accomplishment; +nor could we devise any means of determining this question till five +o'clock, when we obtained a sight of the sun through the fog, and +were thus enabled to shape our course, the wind being moderate from +the northward. + +At one A.M. on the 2d, a star was seen, being the first that had +been visible to us for more than two months. + +As we were making no way to the westward, I left the ship, +accompanied by a large party of officers and men, and was soon +after joined by the Griper's boats. The basis of this land is +sandstone; but we met with limestone also, occurring in loose +pieces on the surface, and several lumps of coal were brought in +by the parties who had traversed the island in different +directions. Our sportsmen were by no means successful, having seen +only two deer, which were too wild to allow them to get near them. +The dung of these animals, however, as well as that of the +musk-ox, was very abundant, especially in those places where the +moss was most luxuriant; every here and there we came to a spot of +this kind, consisting of one or two acres of ground, covered with +a rich vegetation, which was evidently the feeding-place of those +animals, there being quantities of their hair and wool lying +scattered about. Several heads of the musk-ox were picked up, and +one of the Hecla's seamen brought to the boat a narwhal's horn, +which he found on a hill more than a mile from the sea, and which +must have been carried thither by Esquimaux or by bears: three or +four brace of ptarmigan were killed, and these were the only +supply of this kind which we obtained. We found no indication of +this part of the island having been inhabited, unless the +narwhal's horn be considered as such. + +The wind continued light and variable till half past eight A.M. on +the 3d, when a breeze from the northward once more enabled us to +make some progress. I was the more anxious to do so from having +perceived that the main ice had, for the last twenty-four hours, +been gradually, though slowly, closing on the shore, thereby +contracting the scarcely navigable channel in which we were +sailing. The land which formed our western extreme was a low +point, five miles to the westward of our place of observation the +preceding day, which I named Point Ross, and the ice had already +approached this point so much that there was considerable doubt +whether any passage could be found between them. We had scarcely +cleared the point when the wind failed us, and the boats were +immediately sent ahead to tow, but a breeze springing up shortly +after from the westward, obliged us to have recourse to another +method of gaining ground, which we had not hitherto practised: +this was by using small anchors and whale-lines as warps, by which +means we made great progress, till, at forty minutes after noon, +we were favoured by a fresh breeze, which soon took us into an +open space of clear water to the northward and westward. A little +to the westward of Point Ross there was a barrier of ice, composed +of heavy masses firmly fixed to the ground at nearly regular +intervals for about a mile, in a direction parallel to the beach. +At right angles to this a second tier projected, of the same kind +of ice, extending to the shore, so that the two together formed a +most complete harbour, within which, I believe, a ship might have +been placed in case of necessity, without much danger from the +pressure of the external floes of ice. It was natural for us to +keep in view the possibility of our being obliged to pass the +ensuing winter in such a harbour; and it must be confessed, that +the apparent practicability of finding such tolerable security for +the ships as this artificial harbour afforded, should we fail in +discovering a more safe and regular anchorage, added not a little +to the confidence with which our operations were carried on during +the remainder of the season. + +At a quarter past nine P.M. we had the satisfaction of crossing +the meridian of 110° west from Greenwich, in the latitude of 74° +44' 20"; by which his majesty's ships under my orders became +entitled to the sum of five thousand pounds, being the reward +offered to such of his majesty's subjects as might succeed in +penetrating thus far to the westward within the Arctic Circle. In +order to commemorate the success which had hitherto attended our +exertions, the bluff headland which we had just passed was +subsequently called by the men BOUNTY CAPE; by which name I have +therefore distinguished it on the chart. + +The wind increasing to a fresh gale from the northward in the +afternoon, and the ice still continuing to oppose an impenetrable +barrier to our farther progress, I determined to beat up to the +northern shore of the bay, and, if a tolerable roadstead could be +found, to drop our anchors till some change should take place. +This was accordingly done at three P.M., in seven fathoms' water. +This roadstead, which I called the BAY OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER, +affords very secure shelter with the wind from E.N.E. round by +north to S.W., and we found it more free from ice than any other +part of the southern coast of the island. + +The Bay of the Hecla and Griper was the first spot where we had +dropped anchor since leaving the coast of Norfolk; a circumstance +which was rendered the more striking to us at the moment, as it +appeared to mark, in a very decided manner, the completion of one +stage of our voyage. The ensigns and pendants were hoisted as soon +as we had anchored, and it created in us no ordinary feelings of +pleasure to see the British flag waving for the first time in +these regions, which had hitherto been considered beyond the +limits of the habitable part of the world. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +As the wind still continued to blow strong from the northward on +the morning of the 6th, without any appearance of opening a +passage for us past Cape Hearne, I took the opportunity of sending +all our boats from both ships at eight A.M., to bring on board a +quantity of moss-peat which our gentlemen reported having found +near a small lake at no great distance from the sea, and which I +directed to be substituted for part of our usual allowance of +coals. Captain Sabine also went on shore to make the requisite +observations; and several of the officers of both ships to sport, +and to collect specimens of natural history. + +The wind beginning to moderate soon after noon, and there being at +length some appearance of motion in the ice near Cape Hearne, the +boats were immediately recalled from the shore, and returned at +two P.M., bringing some peat, which was found to burn tolerably, +but a smaller quantity than I had hoped to procure. We then made +sail for Cape Hearne, which we rounded at six o'clock, having no +soundings with from seventeen to twenty fathoms of line, at the +distance of a mile and a quarter from the point. + +I was beginning once more to indulge in those flattering hopes, of +which often-repeated disappointments cannot altogether deprive us, +when I perceived from the crow's-nest a compact body of ice, +extending completely in to the shore near the point which formed +the western extreme. We ran sufficiently close to be assured that +no passage to the westward could at present be effected, the floes +being literally upon the beach, and not a drop of clear water +being visible beyond them. I then ordered the ships to be made +fast to a floe, being in eighty fathoms' water, at the distance of +four or five miles from the beach. The season had now so far +advanced as to make it absolutely necessary to secure the ships +every night from ten till two o'clock, the weather being too dark +during that interval to allow of our keeping under way in such a +navigation as this, deprived as we were of the use of compasses. + +On the morning of the 8th, there being no prospect of any +immediate alteration in the ice, I directed the boats to be sent +on shore from both ships, to endeavour to procure some game, as +well as to examine the productions of this part of the island. On +going to the masthead, shortly after the boats had been +despatched, I found that the bight of ice in which the ships were +lying was not one floe, but formed by the close junction of two, +so that our situation was by no means so secure as I had supposed +for this bight was so far from being a protection to us, in case +of ice driving on shore, that it would probably be the means of +"nipping" us between the floes which formed it. I therefore +determined on immediately removing the ships in-shore, and went in +a boat to look out for a place for that purpose, there being no +alternative between this and our returning some distance to the +eastward, into the larger space of clear water which we had there +left behind us. I found that a heavy piece of ice aground in +twelve fathoms, at the distance of three hundred yards from the +beach, would suit our purpose for the Hecla, and another, in ten +fathoms, still nearer in-shore, was selected for the Griper. These +masses were from twenty to thirty feet above the sea, and each +about the length of the respective ships. + +At four P.M., the weather being quite calm, the ships were towed +in-shore by the boats, and made fast in the places selected for +them. + +Impatient and anxious as we were to make the most of the short +remainder of the present season, our mortification will easily be +imagined at perceiving, on the morning of the 9th, not only that +the ice was as close as ever to the westward, but that the floes +in our immediate neighbourhood were sensibly approaching the +shore. As there was no chance, therefore, of our being enabled to +move, I sent a party on shore at daylight to collect what coal +they could find, and in the course of the day, nearly two thirds +of a bushel, being about equal to the Hecla's daily expenditure, +was brought on board. Our sportsmen, who were out for several +hours, could only procure us a hare and a few ducks. + +On the 11th there was no alteration in the ice near the ships and +Mr. Bushnan, whom I despatched at daylight to the western cape, +reported on his return, that appearances were equally unpromising +in that quarter. Mr. Dealy was fortunate enough to kill the first +musk-ox that our sportsmen had yet been able to get near; but, as +it was at the distance of eight or ten miles from the ships, our +present situation with regard to the ice would not allow of my +sending a party of men to bring it on board. A piece of the meat +which Mr. Dealy brought with him was considered to taste tolerably +well, but its smell was by no means tempting. + +I must now mention an occurrence which had caused considerable +apprehension in our minds for the last two days, and the result of +which had very nearly proved of very serious importance to the +future welfare of the expedition. Early on the morning of the 11th +I received a note from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at +daylight on the preceding day, Mr. Fife, with a party of six men, +had been despatched from the Griper, with the hope of surprising +some reindeer and musk-oxen, whose tracks had been seen in a +ravine to the westward of the ships. As they had not yet returned, +in compliance with the instructions given to Mr. Fife, and had +only been supplied with a small quantity of provisions, it was +natural to apprehend that they had lost their way in pursuit of +game. I therefore recommended to Lieutenant Liddon to send a party +in search of his people, and Messrs. Reid, Beverly, and Wakeham, +who immediately volunteered their services on the occasion, were +accordingly despatched for this purpose. Soon after their +departure, however, it began to snow, which rendered the +atmosphere so extremely thick, especially on the hills along which +they had to travel, that this party also lost their way, in spite +of every precaution, but fortunately got sight of our rockets +after dark, by which they were directed to the ships, and returned +at ten o'clock, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, without +any intelligence of the absentees. + +At daylight on the following morning, I sent Lieutenant Hoppner, +with the Heck's fore-royal-mast rigged as a flagstaff, which he +erected on a conspicuous hill four or five miles inland, hoisting +upon it a large ensign, which might be seen at a considerable +distance in every direction. This expedient occurred to us as a +more certain mode of directing our absentees towards the ships +than that of sending out a number of parties, which I could not, +in common prudence as well as humanity, permit to go to any great +distance from the ships; but the snow fell so thick, and the drift +was so great during the whole of the 12th, that no advantage could +at that time be expected from it, and another night came without +the absent party appearing. + +Our apprehensions on their account was by this time increased to a +most painful degree, and I therefore ordered four parties, under +the command of careful officers, to be prepared to set out in +search of them the following morning. These parties carried with +them a number of pikes, having small flags attached to them, which +they were directed to plant at regular intervals, and which were +intended to answer the double purpose of guiding themselves on +their return and of directing the absent party, should they meet +with them, to the ships. For the latter purpose a bottle was fixed +to each pike, containing the necessary directions for their +guidance, and acquainting them that provisions would be found at +the large flagstaff on the hill. Our searching parties left the +ships soon after daylight, the wind still blowing hard from the +westward, with incessant snow, and the thermometer at 28°. This +weather continued without intermission during the day, and our +apprehensions for the safety of our people were excited to a most +alarming degree, when the sun began to descend behind the western +hills for the third time since they had left the ship; I will not, +therefore, attempt to describe the joyful feelings we suddenly +experienced, on the Griper's hoisting the signal appointed, to +inform us that her men, or a part of them, were seen on their +return. Soon, after we observed seven persons coming along the +beach to the eastward, who proved to be Mr. Nias and his party, +with four out of the seven men belonging to the Griper. From the +latter, consisting of a corporal of marines and three seamen, we +learned that they had lost their way within a few hours after +leaving the ship, and had wandered about without anything to guide +them till about ten o'clock on the following day, when they +descried the large flagstaff at a great distance. At this time the +whole party were together; but now unfortunately separated, in +consequence of a difference of opinion respecting the flagstaff, +which Mr. Fife mistook for a smaller one that had been erected +some days before at a considerable distance to the eastward of our +present situation; and with that impression, walked away in a +contrary direction, accompanied by two of his men. The other four, +who had now returned (of whom two were already much debilitated), +determined to make for the flagstaff. When they had walked some +distance and were enabled to ascertain what it was, one of them +endeavoured to overtake Mr. Fife, but was too much fatigued, and +returned to his comrades. They halted during a part of the night, +made a sort of hut of stones and turf to shelter them from the +weather, and kindled a little fire with gunpowder and moss to warm +their feet; they had never been in actual want of food, having +lived upon raw grouse, of which they were enabled to obtain a +quantity sufficient for their subsistence. In the morning they +once more set forward towards the flagstaff, which they reached +within three or four hours after Lieutenant Beechey had left some +provisions on the spot; having eaten some bread, and drunk a +little rum and water, a mixture which they described as perfectly +tasteless and clammy, they renewed their journey towards the +ships, and had not proceeded far, when, notwithstanding the snow +which was constantly falling, they met with footsteps which +directed them to Mr. Nias and his party, by whom they were +conducted to the ships. + +The account they gave us of Mr. Fife and his two companions led us +to believe that we should find them, if still living, at a +considerable distance to the westward; and some parties were just +about to set out in that direction, when the trouble and anxiety +which this mistake would have occasioned us were prevented by the +arrival of another of the searching parties, with the information +that Mr. Fife and the two men were on their way to the ships, +being about five miles to the eastward. Some fresh hands were, +immediately sent to bring them in, and they arrived on board at +ten P.M. after an absence of ninety-one hours, and having been +exposed during three nights to the inclemency of the first wintry +weather we had experienced. Almost the whole of this party were +much exhausted by cold and fatigue, and several of them were +severely frostbitten in their toes and fingers; but, by the skill +and unremitted attention of our medical gentlemen, they were in a +few days enabled to return to their duty. + +At three A.M. of Tuesday, the 14th, the thermometer fell to 9°; +and from this time the commencement of winter may fairly be dated. +On the 20th I considered it a duty incumbent upon me to call for +the opinions of the senior officers of the expedition as to the +expediency of immediately seeking a harbour in which the ships +might securely lie during the ensuing winter. The opinions of the +officers entirely concurring with my own as to the propriety of +immediately resorting to this measure, I determined, whenever the +ice and the weather would allow, to run back to the bay of the +Hecla and Griper, in which neighbourhood alone we had any reason +to believe that a suitable harbour might be found. + +At half past two on the morning of the 22d, the night signal was +made to weigh, and we began to heave at our cables; but such was +the difficulty of raising our anchor and of hauling in our +hawsers, owing to the stiffness of the ropes from frost and the +quantity of ice which had accumulated about them, that it was five +o'clock before the ships were under way. Our rudder, also, was so +choked by the ice which had formed about it, that it could not be +moved till a boat had been hauled under the stern, and the ice +beaten and cut away from it. We ran along to the eastward without +any obstruction, in a channel about five miles wide, till we were +within four or five miles of Cape Hearne, where the bay-ice, in +unbroken sheets of about one third of an inch in thickness, began +to offer considerable impediment to our progress. We at length, +however, struck soundings with twenty-nine fathoms of line, and at +eight P.M. anchored in nine fathoms, on a muddy bottom, a little +to the eastward of our situation on the 5th. + +In going to the westward we passed a shoal and open bay, +immediately adjacent to the harbour which we were now about to +examine, and soon after came to a reef of rocks, in some parts +nearly dry, extending, about three quarters of a mile to the +southward of a low point on the southeastern side of the harbour. +On rounding the reef, on which a quantity of heavy ice was lying +aground, we found that a continuous floe, four or five inches in +thickness, was formed over the whole harbour, which in every other +respect appeared to be fit for our purpose; and that it would be +necessary to cut a canal of two miles in length through the ice, +in order to get the ships into a secure situation for the winter. +We sounded the channel into the harbour about three quarters of a +mile, by making holes in the ice and dropping the lead through, +and found the depth from five to six fathoms. + +The ships weighed at six A.M. on the 24th. the wind being still at +north, and the weather moderate and fine. As soon as the Hecla was +under sail, I went ahead in a boat to sound, and to select an +anchorage for the ships. Near the southwestern point of this +harbour there is a remarkable block of sandstone, somewhat +resembling the roof of a house, on which the ships names were +subsequently engraved by Mr. Fisher. This stone is very +conspicuous in coming from the eastward, and, when kept open to +the southward of the grounded ice at the end of the reef, forms a +good landing mark for the channel into the harbour. Off the end of +the reef the water deepened to six fathoms, and the Hecla's anchor +was dropped in eight fathoms, half a mile within the reef, and +close to the edge of the ice through which the canal was to be +cut. The Griper arrived soon after, and by half past eight A.M. +both ships were secured in the proper position for commencing the +intended operations. + +As soon as our people had breakfasted, I proceeded with a small +party of men to sound and to mark with boarding-pikes upon the ice +the most direct channel we could find to the anchorage, having +left directions for every other officer and man in both ships to +be employed in cutting the canal. This operation was performed by +first marking out two parallel lines, distant from each other a +little more than the breadth of the larger ship. Along each of +these lines a cut was then made with an ice saw, and others again +at right angles to them, at intervals of from ten to twenty feet; +thus dividing the ice into a number of square pieces, which it was +again necessary to subdivide diagonally, in order to give room for +their being floated out of the canal. On returning from the upper +part of the harbour, where I had marked out what appeared to be +the best situation for our winter-quarters, I found that +considerable progress had been made in cutting the canal and in +floating the pieces out of it. To facilitate the latter part of +the process, the seamen, who are always fond of doing things in +their own way, took advantage of a fresh northerly breeze, by +setting some boats sails upon the pieces of ice, a contrivance +which saved both time and labour. This part of the operation, +however, was by far the most troublesome, principally on account +of the quantity of young ice which formed in the canal, and +especially about the entrance, where, before sunset, it had become +so thick that a passage could no longer be found for the detached +pieces without considerable trouble in breaking it. At half past +seven P.M. we weighed our anchors and began to warp up the canal, +but the northerly wind blew so fresh, and the people were so much +fatigued, having been almost constantly at work for nineteen +hours, that it was midnight before we reached the termination of +our first day's labour. + +All hands were again set to work on the morning of the 25th, when +it was proposed to sink the pieces of ice, as they were cut, under +the floe, instead of floating them out, the latter mode having now +become impracticable on account of the lower part of the canal, +through which the ships had passed, being, hard frozen during the +night. To effect this, it was necessary for a certain number of +men to stand upon one end of the piece of ice which it was +intended to sink, while other parties, hauling at the same time +upon ropes attached to the opposite end, dragged the block under +that part of the floe on which the people stood. The officers of +both ships took the lead in this employ, several of them standing +up to their knees in water frequently during the day, with the +thermometer generally at 12°, and never higher than 16°. At six +P.M. we began to move the ships. The Griper was made fast astern +of the Hecla, and the two ships' companies being divided on each +bank of the canal, with ropes from the Hecla's gangways, soon drew +the ships along to the end of our second day's work. + +Sunday, 26th.--I should on every account have been glad to make +this a day of rest to the officers and men; but the rapidity with +which the ice increased in thickness, in proportion as the general +temperature of the atmosphere diminished, would have rendered a +day's delay of serious importance. I ordered the work, therefore, +to be continued at the usual time in the morning; and such was the +spirited and cheerful manner in which this order was complied +with, as well as the skill which had now been acquired in the art +of sawing and sinking the ice, that although the thermometer was +at 6° in the morning, and rose no higher than 9° during the day, +we had completed the canal at noon, having effected more in four +hours than on either of the two preceding days. The whole length +of this canal was four thousand and eighty-two yards, or nearly +two miles and one third, and the average thickness of the ice was +seven inches. + +At half past one P.M. we began to track the ships along in the +same manner as before, and at a quarter past three we reached our +winter-quarters, and hailed the event with three loud and hearty +cheers from both ships' companies. The ships were in five fathoms +water, a cable's length from the beach on the northwestern side of +the harbour, to which I gave the name of WINTER HARBOUR; and I +called the group of islands which we had discovered in the Polar +Sea the NORTH GEORGIAN ISLANDS. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +Having, on the 19th October, reached the station where, in all +probability, we were destined to remain for at least eight or nine +months, during three of, which we were not to see the face of the +sun, my attention was immediately and imperiously called to +various important duties; many of them of a singular nature, such +as had, for the first time, devolved on any officer in his +majesty's navy, and might, indeed, be considered of rare +occurrence in the whole history of navigation. The security of the +ships and the preservation of the various stores were objects of +immediate concern. A regular system to be adopted for the +maintenance of good order and cleanliness, as most conducive to +the health of the crews during the long, dark, and dreary winter, +equally demanded my attention. + +Not a moment was lost, therefore, in the commencement of our +operations. The whole of the masts were dismantled except the +lower ones and the Hecla's main-topmast; the lower yards were +lashed fore and aft amidships, to support the planks of the +housing intended to be erected over the ships; and the whole of +this framework was afterward roofed over with a cloth. The boats, +spars, running rigging, and sails were removed on shore; and, as +soon as the ships were secured and housed over, my whole attention +was directed to the health and comfort of the officers and men. +The surgeon reported that not the slightest disposition to scurvy +had shown itself in either ship. + +Soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour, when the temperature of +the atmosphere had fallen considerably below zero of Fahrenheit, +we found that the steam from the coppers, as well as the breath +and other vapour generated in the inhabited parts of the ship, +began to condense into drops upon the beams and the sides, to such +a degree as to keep them constantly wet. In order to remove this +serious evil, a large stone oven, cased with cast iron, in which +all our bread was baked daring the winter, was placed on the main +hatchway, and the stovepipe led fore and aft on one side of the +lower deck, the smoke being thus carried up the fore hatchway. On +the opposite side of the deck an apparatus had been attached to +the galley-range for conveying a current of heated air between +decks. This apparatus simply consisted of an iron box, about fifteen +inches square, through which passed three pipes of two inches +diameter, communicating below with the external air, and uniting +above in a metal box, fixed to the side of the galley-range; to +this box a copper stovepipe was attached, and conveyed to the +middle part of the lower deck. When a fire was made under the +air-vessel, the air became heated in its passage through the three +pipes, from which it was conveyed through the stovepipe to the +men's berths. While this apparatus was in good order, a moderate +fire produced a current of air of the temperature of 87°, at the +distance of seventeen feet from the fireplace; and with a pipe of +wood, or any other imperfect conductor of heat, which would not +allow of its escaping by the way, it might undoubtedly be carried +to a much greater distance. By these means we were enabled to get +rid of the moisture about the berths where the people messed; but +when the weather became more severely cold, it still accumulated +in the bed places occasionally to a serious and very alarming +degree. Among the means employed to prevent the injurious effects +arising from this annoyance, one of the most efficacious, perhaps, +was a screen made of fearnaught, fixed to the beams round the +galley, and dropping within eighteen inches of the deck, which +served to intercept the steam from the coppers, and prevent it, +as before, from curling along the beams, and condensing upon them +into drops. + +For the preservation of health, and as a necessary measure of +economy, a few alterations were made in the quantity and quality +of the provisions issued. I directed the allowance of bread to be +permanently reduced to two thirds, a precaution which, perhaps, it +would have been as well to adopt from the commencement of the +voyage. A pound of preserved meat, together with one pint of +vegetable or concentrated soup per man, was substituted for one +pound of salt beef weekly; a proportion of beer and wine was +served in lieu of spirits; and a small quantity of sourkrout and +pickles, with as much vinegar as could be used, was issued at +regular intervals. The daily proportion of lime-juice and sugar +was mixed together, and with a proper quantity of water, was drunk +by each man in presence of an officer appointed to attend to this +duty. This latter precaution may appear to have been unnecessary +to those who are not aware how much sailors resemble children in +all those points in which their own health and comfort are +concerned. Whenever any game was procured, it was directed to be +invariably served in lieu of, and not in addition to, the +established allowance of other meat, except in a few extraordinary +cases; when such an indulgence was allowed; and in no one +instance, either in quantity or quality, was the slightest +preference given to the officers. + +Great attention was paid to the clothing of the men, and one day +in the week was appointed for the examination of the men's shins +and gums by the medical gentlemen, in order that any slight +appearance of the scurvy might at once be detected, and checked by +timely and adequate means. + +Under circumstances of leisure and inactivity, such as we were now +placed in, and with every prospect of its continuance for a very +large portion of the year, I was desirous of finding some +amusement for the men during this long and tedious interval. I +proposed, therefore, to the officers to get up a play occasionally +on board the Hecla, as the readiest means of preserving among our +crews that cheerfulness and good-humour which had hitherto +subsisted. In this proposal I was readily seconded by the officers +of both ships; and Lieutenant Beechey having been duly elected as +stage-manager, our first performance was fixed for the 5th of +November, to the great delight of the ships' companies. In these +amusements I gladly undertook a part myself, considering that an +example of cheerfulness, by giving a direct countenance to +everything that could contribute to it, was not the least +essential part of my duty, under the peculiar circumstances in +which we were placed. + +In order still farther to promote good-humour among ourselves, as +well as to furnish amusing occupation during the hours of constant +darkness, we set on foot a weekly newspaper, which was to be +called the _North Georgia Gazette and Winter Chronicle_, and of +which Captain Sabine undertook to be the editor, under the promise +that it was to be supported by original contributions from the +officers of the two ships: and I can safely say, that the weekly +contributions had the happy effect of employing the leisure hours +of those who furnished them, and of diverting the mind from the +gloomy prospect which would sometimes obtrude itself on the +stoutest heart. + +Immediately on our arrival in harbour, Captain Sabine had employed +himself in selecting a place for the observatory, which was +erected in a convenient spot, about seven hundred yards to the +westward of the ships. It was also considered advisable +immediately to set about building a house near the beach for the +reception of the clocks and instruments. For this purpose we made +use of a quantity of fir-plank, which was intended for the +construction of spare boats, and which was so cut as not to injure +it for that purpose. The ground was so hard frozen that it +required great labour to dig holes for the upright posts which +formed the support of the sides. The walls of this house being +double, with moss placed between the two, a high temperature +could, even in the severest weather which we might be doomed to +experience, be kept up in it without difficulty by a single stove. + +After our arrival in port we saw several reindeer and a few coveys +of grouse; but the country is so destitute of everything like +cover of any kind, that our sportsmen were not successful in their +hunting excursions, and we procured only three reindeer previous +to the migration of these and the other animals from the island, +which took place before the close of the month of October, leaving +only the wolves and foxes to bear us company during the winter. +The full-grown deer which we killed in the autumn, gave us from +one hundred and twenty to one hundred and seventy pounds of meat +each, and a fawn weighed eighty-four pounds. + +On the 1st of October, Captain Sabine's servant, having been at +some distance from the ships to examine a fox-trap, was pursued by +a large white bear, which followed his footsteps the whole way to +the ships, where he was wounded by several balls, but made his +escape after all. This bear, which was the only one we saw during +our stay in Winter Harbour, was observed to be more purely white +than any we had before seen, the colour of these animals being +generally that of a dirtyish yellow when contrasted with the +whiteness of the ice and snow. + +Some deer being seen near the ships on the 10th, a party was +despatched after them, some of whom having wounded a stag, and +being led on by the ardour of pursuit, forgot my order that every +person should be on board before sunset, and did not return till +late, after we had suffered much apprehension their account. John +Pearson, a marine belonging to the Griper, who was the last that +returned on board, had his hands severely frostbitten, having +imprudently gone away without mittens, and with a musket in his +hand. A party of our people most providentially found him, +although the night was very dark, just as he had fallen down a +steep bank of snow, and was beginning to feel that degree of +torpor and drowsiness which, if indulged, inevitably proves fatal. +When he was brought on board his fingers were quite stiff, and +bent into the shape of that part of the musket which he had been +carrying; and the frost had so far destroyed the animation in his +fingers on one hand, that it was necessary to amputate three of +them a short time after, notwithstanding all the care and +attention paid to him by the medical gentlemen. The effect which +exposure to severe frost has in benumbing the mental as well as +the corporeal faculties, was very striking in this man, as well as +in two of the young gentlemen who returned after dark, and of whom +we were anxious to make inquiries respecting Pearson. When I sent +for them into my cabin, they looked wild, spoke thick and +indistinctly, and it was impossible to draw from them a rational +answer to any of our questions. After being on board for a short +time, the mental faculties appeared gradually to return with the +returning circulation, and it was not till then that a looker-on +could easily persuade himself that they had not been drinking too +freely. In order to guard in some measure against the danger of +persons losing their way, which was more and more to be +apprehended as the days became shorter and the ground more covered +with snow, which gives such a dreary sameness to the country, we +erected on all the hills within two or three miles of the harbour, +finger-posts pointing towards the ships. + +I have before remarked that all the water which we made use of +while within the polar circle was procured from snow either +naturally or artificially dissolved. Soon after the ships were +laid up for the winter, it was necessary to have recourse entirely +to the latter process, which added materially to the expenditure +of fuel during the winter months. The snow for this purpose was +dug out of the drifts which had formed upon the ice round the +ships, and dissolved in the coppers. We found it necessary always +to strain the water thus procured, on account of the sand which +the heavy snowdrifts brought from the island, after which it was +quite pure and wholesome. + +On the 16th it blew a strong gale from the northward, accompanied +by such a constant snowdrift, that, although the weather was quite +clear overhead, the boathouse at the distance of three or four +hundred yards could scarcely be seen from the ships. On such +occasions no person was permitted on any account to leave the +ships. Indeed, when this snowdrift occurred, as it frequently did +in the winter, with a hard gale and the thermometer very low, I +believe that no human being could have remained alive after an +hour's exposure to it. In order, therefore, to secure a +communication between the two ships, a distance not exceeding half +a cable's length, as well as from the ships to the house on shore, +a line was kept extended, as a guide from one to the other. The +meridian, altitude of the sun was observed this day by an +artificial horizon, which I noticed from the circumstance of its +being the last time we had an opportunity of observing it for +about four months. + +On the 26th the sun afforded us sufficient light or writing and +reading in my cabin, the stern-windows exactly facing the south, +from half past nine till half past two; for the rest of the +four-and-twenty hours, we lived, of course, by candle-light. +Nothing could exceed the beauty of the sky to the southeast and +southwest at sunrise and sunset about this period: near the +horizon there was generally a rich bluish purple and a bright arch +of deep red above, the one mingling imperceptibly with the other. + +It now became rather a painful experiment to touch any metallic +substance in the open air with the naked hand; the feeling +produced by it exactly resembling that occasioned by the opposite +extreme of intense heat, and taking off the skin from the part +affected. We found it necessary, therefore, to use great caution +in handling our sextants and other instruments, particularly the +eye-pieces of telescopes, which, if suffered to touch the face, +occasioned an intense burning pain; but this was easily remedied +by covering them over with soft leather. Another effect, with +regard to the use of instruments, began to appear about this time. +Whenever any instrument which had been some time exposed to the +atmosphere, so as to be cooled down to the same temperature, was +suddenly brought below into the cabins, the vapour was instantly +condensed all around it, so as to give the instrument the +appearance of smoking, and the glasses were covered almost +instantly with a thin coating of ice, the removal of which +required great caution, to prevent the risk of injuring them, +until it had gradually thawed, as they acquired the temperature of +the cabin. When a candle was placed in a certain direction from +the instrument with respect to the observer, a number of very +minute _spiculæ_ of snow were also seen sparkling around the +instrument, at the distance of two or three inches from it, +occasioned, as we supposed, by the cold atmosphere produced by the +low temperature of the instrument almost instantaneously +congealing into that form the vapour which floated in its +immediate neighbourhood. + +The 4th of November being the last day that the sun would, +independently of the effects of refraction, be seen above our +horizon till the 8th of February, an interval of ninety-six days, +it was a matter of considerable regret to us that the weather +about this time was not sufficiently clear to allow us to see and +make observations on the disappearance of that luminary, in order +that something might be attempted towards determining the amount +of the atmospheric refraction at a low temperature. But though we +were not permitted to take a last farewell, for at least three +months, of that cheering orb, "of this great world both eye and +soul," we nevertheless felt that this day constituted an important +and memorable epoch in our voyage. We had some time before set +about the preparations for our winter's amusements; and the +theatre being ready, we opened on the 5th November, with the +representation of _Miss in her Teens_, which afforded to the men +such a fund of amusement as fully to justify the expectations we +had formed of the utility of theatrical entertainments under our +present circumstances, and to determine me to follow them up at +stated periods. I found, indeed, that even the occupation of +fitting up the theatre and taking it to pieces again, which +employed a number of the men for a day or two before and after +each performance, was a matter of no little importance, when the +immediate duties of the ship appeared by no means sufficient for +that purpose; for I dreaded the want of employment as one of the +worst evils that was likely to befall us. + +About the time of the sun's leaving us, the wolves began to +approach the ships more boldly, howling most piteously on the +beach near us, sometimes for hours together, and on one or two +occasions coming alongside the ships, when everything was quiet at +night; but we seldom saw more than one or two together, and +therefore could form no idea of their number. These animals were +always very shy of coming near our people; and though evidently +suffering much from hunger, never attempted to attack any of them. +The white foxes used also to visit the ships at night, and one of +these was caught in a trap set under the Griper's bows. The +uneasiness displayed by this beautiful little animal during the +time of his confinement, whenever he heard the howling of a wolf +near the ships, impressed us with the opinion that the latter is +in the habit of hunting the fox as his prey. + +The temperature of the atmosphere having about this time become +considerably lower than before, the cracking of the timbers was +very frequent and loud for a time; but generally ceased altogether +in an hour or two after this fall had taken place in the +thermometer, and did not occur again at the same temperature +during the winter. The wind blowing fresh from the northward, with +a heavy snowdrift, made the ship very cold below; so that the +breath and other vapour accumulated during the night in the bed +places and upon the beams, and then immediately froze; hence it +often occupied all hands for two or three hours during the day to +scrape the ice away, in order to prevent the bedding from becoming +wet by the increase of temperature occasioned by the fires. It was +therefore found necessary to keep some of the fires in between +decks at night, when the thermometer was below -15° or -20° in the +open air, especially when the wind was high. To assist in keeping +the lower decks warm, as well as to retard, in some slight degree, +the formation of ice immediately in contact with the ships' bends, +we banked the snow up against their sides as high as the main +chains; and canvass screens were nailed round all the hatchways on +the lower deck. + +The stars of the second magnitude in Ursa Major were just +perceptible to the naked eye a little after noon this day, and the +Aurora Borealis appeared faintly in the southwest at night. About +this time our medical gentlemen began to remark the extreme +difficulty with which sores of every kind healed; a circumstance +that rendered it the more necessary to be cautious in exposing the +men to frostbites, lest the long inactivity and want of exercise +during the cure of sores, in other respects trifling, should +produce serious effects upon the general health of the patients. + +During the following fortnight we were chiefly occupied in +observing various phenomena in the heavens, the vivid coruscations +of the Aurora Borealis, the falling of meteors, and in taking +lunar distances; but the difficulty of making observations in this +climate is inconceivably great; on one occasion the mercury of the +artificial horizon froze into a solid mass. + +About this part of the winter we began to experience a more +serious inconvenience from the bursting of the lemon-juice bottles +by frost, the whole contents being frequently frozen into a solid +mass, except a small portion of highly concentrated acid in the +centre, which in most instances was found to have leaked out, so +that when the ice was thawed it was little better than water. This +evil increased to a very alarming degree in the course of the +winter: some cases being opened in which more than two thirds of +the lemon-juice was thus destroyed, and the remainder rendered +nearly inefficient. + +It was at first supposed that this accident might have been +prevented by not quite filling the bottles, but it was afterward +found that the corks flying out did not save them from breaking. +We observed that the greatest damage was done in those cases which +were stowed nearest to the ship's side, and we therefore removed +all the rest amidships; a precaution which, had it been sooner +known and adopted, would probably have prevented at least a part +of the mischief. The vinegar also became frozen in the casks in +the same manner, and lost a great deal of its acidity when thawed. +This circumstance conferred an additional value on a few gallons +of very highly concentrated vinegar, which had been sent out on +trial upon this and the preceding voyage, and which, when mixed +with six or seven times its own quantity of water, was sufficiently +acid for every purpose. This vinegar, when exposed to the +temperature of 25° below zero, congealed only into a consistence +like that of the thickest honey, but was never sufficiently hard +to break any vessel which contained it. There can be no doubt, +therefore, that on this account, as well as to save stowage, this +kind of vinegar should exclusively be used in these regions; and +for similar reasons of still greater importance, the lemon-juice +should be concentrated. + +We had now reached the shortest day, Wednesday, the 22d, and such +was the occupation which we had hitherto contrived to find during +the first half of our long and gloomy winter, that the quickness +with which it had come upon us was a subject of general remark. So +far, indeed, were we from wanting that occupation of which I had +been apprehensive, especially among the men that it accidentally +came to my knowledge about this period that they complained of not +having time to mend their clothes. This complaint I was as glad to +hear as desirous to rectify; and I therefore ordered that, in +future, one afternoon in each week should be set aside for that +particular purpose. + +The circumstances of our situation being such as have never before +occurred to the crews of any of his majesty's ships, it may not, +perhaps, be considered wholly uninteresting to know in what manner +our time was thus so fully occupied throughout the long and severe +winter which it was our lot to experience, and particularly during +a three months' interval of nearly total darkness. + +The officers and quartermasters were divided into four watches, +which were regularly kept as at sea, while the remainder of the +ships' company were allowed to enjoy their night's rest +undisturbed. The hands were turned up at a quarter before six, and +both decks were well rubbed with stones and warm sand before eight +o'clock, at which time, as usual at sea, both officers and men +went to breakfast. Three quarters of an hour being allowed after +breakfast for the men to prepare themselves for muster, we then +beat to divisions punctually at a quarter past nine, when every +person on board attended on the quarter deck, and a strict +inspection of the men took place as to their personal cleanliness, +and the good condition, as well as sufficient warmth of their +clothing. The reports of the officers having been made to me, the +people were then allowed to walk about, or, more usually, to run +round the upper deck, while I went down to examine the state of +that below. The state of this deck may be said, indeed, to have +constituted the chief source of our anxiety, and to have occupied +by far the greatest share of our attention at this period. +Whenever any dampness appeared, or, what more frequently happened, +any accumulation of ice had taken place during the preceding +night, the necessary means were immediately adopted for removing +it; in the former case usually by rubbing the wood with cloths, +and then directing the warm airpipe towards the place; and in the +latter by scraping off the ice, so as to prevent its wetting the +deck by any accidental increase of temperature. In this respect +the bed-places were particularly troublesome; the inner partition, +or that next the ship's side, being almost invariably covered with +more or less dampness or ice, according to the temperature of the +deck during the preceding night. This inconvenience might, to a +great degree, have been avoided by a sufficient quantity of fuel +to keep up two good fires on the lower deck throughout the +twenty-four hours; but our stock of coals would by no means permit +this, bearing in mind the possibility of our spending a second +winter within the Arctic circle; and this comfort could only, +therefore, be allowed on a few occasions during the most severe +part of the winter. + +In the course of my examination of the lower deck I had always an +opportunity of seeing those few men who were on the sick list, and +of receiving from Mr. Edwards a report of their respective cases; +as also of consulting that gentleman as to the means of improving +the warmth, ventilation, and general comfort of the inhabited +parts of the ship. Having performed this duty, we returned to the +upper deck, where I personally inspected the men; after which they +were sent out to walk on shore, when the weather would permit, +till noon, when they returned on board to their dinner. When the +day was too inclement for them to take this exercise, they were +ordered to run round and round the deck, keeping step to the tune +of an organ, or, not unfrequently, to a song of their own singing. +Among the men were a few who did not at first quite like this +systematic mode of taking exercise; but when they found that no +plea except that of illness was admitted as an excuse, they not +only willingly and cheerfully complied, but made it the occasion +of much humour and frolic among themselves. + +The officers, who dined at two o'clock, were also in the habit of +occupying one or two hours in the middle of the day in rambling on +shore, even in our darkest period, except when a fresh wind and a +heavy snowdrift confined them within the housing of the ships. It +may well be imagined that, at this period, there was but little to +be met with in our walks on shore which could either amuse or +interest us. The necessity of not exceeding the limited distance +of one or two miles, lest a snowdrift, which often rises very +suddenly, should prevent our return, added considerably to the +dull and tedious monotony which day after day presented itself. To +the southward was the sea, covered with one unbroken surface of +ice, uniform in its dazzling whiteness, except that, in some +parts, a few hummocks were seen thrown up somewhat above the +general level. Nor did the land offer much greater variety, being +almost entirely covered with snow, except here and there a brown +patch of bare ground in some exposed situations, where the wind +had not allowed the snow to remain. When viewed from the summit of +the neighbouring hills, on one of those calm and clear days which +not unfrequently occurred during the winter, the scene was such as +to induce contemplations which had, perhaps, more of melancholy +than of any other feeling. Not an object was to be seen on which +the eye could long rest with pleasure, unless when directed to the +spot where our ships lay and where our little colony was planted. +The smoke which there issued from the several fires, affording a +certain indication of the presence of man, gave a partial +cheerfulness to this part of the prospect; and the sound of +voices, which, during the cold weather, could be heard at a much +greater distance than usual, served now and then to break the +silence which reigned around us; a silence far different from that +peaceable composure which characterizes the landscape of a +cultivated country; it was the deathlike stillness of the most +dreary desolation, and the total absence of animated existence. +Such, indeed, was the want of objects to afford relief to the eye +or amusement to the mind, that a stone of more than usual size +appearing above the snow in the direction in which we were going, +immediately became a mark on which our eyes were unconsciously +fixed, and towards which we mechanically advanced. + +We had frequent occasion, in our walks on shore, to remark the +deception which takes place in estimating the distance and +magnitude of objects when viewed over an unvaried surface of snow. +It was not uncommon for us to direct our steps towards what we +took for a large mass of stone at the distance of half a mile from +us, but which we were able to take up in our hands after one +minute's walk. This was more particularly the case when ascending +the brow of a hill, nor did we find that the deception became less +on account of the frequency with which we experienced its effects. + +In the afternoon the men were usually occupied in drawing and +knotting yarns, and in making points and gaskets; a never-failing +resource where mere occupation is required, and which it was +necessary to perform entirely on the lower deck, the yarns +becoming so hard and brittle, when exposed on deck to the +temperature of the atmosphere, as to be too stiff for working, and +very easily broken. I may in this place remark, that our lower +rigging became extremely slack during the severity of the winter, +and gradually tightened again as the spring returned: effects the +very reverse of those which we had anticipated, and which I can +only account for by the extreme dryness of the atmosphere in the +middle of winter, and the subsequent increase of moisture. + +At half past five in the evening the decks were cleared up, and at +six we again beat to divisions, when the same examination of the +men and of their berths and bed-places took place as in the +morning; the people then went to their supper, and the officers to +tea. After this time the men were permitted to amuse themselves as +they pleased, and games of various kinds, as well as dancing and +singing occasionally, went on upon the lower deck till nine +o'clock, when they went to bed and their lights were extinguished. +In order to guard against accidents by fire, where so many fires +and lights were necessarily in use, the quartermasters visited the +lower deck every half hour during the night, and made their report +to the officers of the watches that all was, in this respect, safe +below; and to secure a ready supply of water in case of fire, a +hole was cut twice a day in the ice, close alongside of each ship. +It is scarcely necessary to add, that the evening occupations of +the officers were of a more rational kind than those which engaged +the attention of the men. Of these, reading and writing were the +principal employments, to which were occasionally added a game of +chess, or a tune on the flute or violin, till half past ten, about +which time we all retired to rest. + +Such were the employments which usually occupied us for six days +in the week, with such exceptions only as circumstances at the +time suggested. On Sundays divine service was invariably +performed, and a sermon read on board both ships; the prayer +appointed to be daily used at sea being altered, so as to adapt it +to the service in which we were engaged, the success which had +hitherto attended our efforts, and the peculiar circumstances +under which we were at present placed. The attention paid by the +men to the observance of their religious duties was such as to +reflect upon them the highest credit, and tended in no small +degree to the preservation of that regularity and good conduct for +which, with very few exceptions, they were invariably distinguished. + +Our theatrical entertainments took place regularly once a +fortnight, and continued to prove a source of infinite amusement +to the men. Our stock of plays was so scanty, consisting of one or +two odd volumes, which happened accidentally to be on board, that +it was with difficulty we could find the means of varying the +performances sufficiently; our authors, therefore, set to work, +and produced, as a Christmas piece, a musical entertainment, +expressly adapted to our audience, and having such a reference to +the service on which we were engaged, and the success we had so +far experienced, as at once to afford a high degree of present +recreation, and to stimulate, if possible, the sanguine hopes +which were entertained by all on board, of the complete +accomplishment of our enterprise. We were at one time apprehensive +that the severity of the weather would prevent the continuance of +this amusement, but the perseverance of the officers overcame +every difficulty; and, perhaps for the first time since theatrical +entertainments were invented, more than one or two plays were +performed on board the Hecla with the thermometer below zero on +the stage. + +The _North Georgia Gazette_, which I have already mentioned, was a +source of great amusement, not only to the contributors, but to +those who, from diffidence of their own talents or other reasons, +could not be prevailed on to add their mite to the little stock of +literary composition which was weekly demanded; for those who +declined to write were not unwilling to read, and more ready to +criticise than those who wielded the pen; but it was that +good-humoured sort of criticism that could not give offence. The +subjects handled in this paper were of course various, but +generally applicable to our own situation. + +The return of each successive day had been always very decidedly +marked by a considerable twilight for some time about noon, that +on the shortest day being sufficient to enable us to walk out very +comfortably for about two hours.[*] There was usually, in clear +weather, a beautiful arch of bright red light overspreading the +southern horizon for an hour or two before and after noon, the +light increasing, of course, in strength, as the sun approached +the meridian. Short as the day now was, if, indeed, any part of +the twenty-four hours could be properly called by that name, the +reflection of light from the snow, aided occasionally by a bright +moon, was at all times sufficient to prevent our experiencing, +even under the most unfavourable circumstances, anything like the +gloomy night which occurs in more temperate climates. Especial +care was taken, during the time the sun was below the horizon, to +preserve the strictest regularity in the time of our meals, and in +the various occupations which engaged our attention during the +day; and this, together with the gradual and imperceptible manner +in which the days had shortened, prevented this kind of life, so +novel to us in reality, from appearing very inconvenient, or, +indeed, like anything out of the common way. It must be confessed, +however, that we were not sorry to arrive, without any serious +suffering, at the shortest day; and we watched, with no ordinary +degree of pleasure, the slow approach of the returning sun. + +[Footnote: It will, perhaps, give the best idea of the power of +the sun's light afforded us on this day, to state, that we could, +at noon, read with tolerable ease the same sized type as that in +which this note is printed; but this could only be done by turning +the book directly towards the south.] + +On Christmas day the weather was raw and cold, with a considerable +snowdrift, though the wind was only moderate from the N.W.; but +the snow which falls during the severe winter of this climate is +composed of spiculæ so extremely minute, that it requires very +little wind to raise it and carry it along. To mark the day in the +best manner which circumstances would permit divine service was +performed on board the ships; and I directed a small increase in +the men's usual proportion of fresh meat as a Christmas dinner, as +well as an additional allowance of grog, to drink the health of +their friends in England. The officers also met at a social and +friendly dinner, and the day passed with much of the same kind of +festivity by which it is usually distinguished at home; and, to +the credit of the men be it spoken, without any of that disorder +by which it is too often observed by seamen. A piece of English +roast-beef, which formed part of the officers' dinner, had been on +board since the preceding May, and preserved without salt during +that period merely by the antiseptic powers of a cold atmosphere. + +A great many frostbites occurred about this time, 30th, +principally in the men's feet, even when they had been walking +quickly on shore for exercise. On examining their boots, Mr. +Edwards remarked, that the stiffness of the thick leather of which +they were made was such as to cramp the feet, and prevent the +circulation from going on freely; and that this alone was +sufficient to account for their feet having been frostbitten. +Being very desirous of avoiding these accidents, which, from the +increased sluggishness with which the sores healed, were more and +more likely to affect the general health of the patients by long +confinement, I directed a pair of canvass boots, lined with +blanketing or some other woollen stuff, to be made for each man, +using raw hide as soles: this completely answered the desired +purpose, as scarcely any frostbites in the feet afterward +occurred, except under circumstances of very severe exposure. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +January 1, 1820.--I received this morning the first unpleasant +report of the scurvy having made its appearance among us: Mr. +Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla, had for some days past been +complaining of pains in his legs, which Mr. Edwards at first took +to be rheumatic, but which, together with the appearance of his +gums, now left no doubt of the symptoms being scorbutic. It is so +uncommon a thing for this disease to make its first appearance +among the officers, that Mr. Edwards was naturally curious to +inquire into the cause of it; and at length discovered that Mr. +Scallon's bedding was in so damp a state, in consequence of the +deposite of moisture in his bed-place, which I have before +mentioned, as to leave no doubt that to this circumstance, as the +immediate exciting cause, his illness might justly be attributed. +The difficulty of preventing this deposite of moisture, and the +consequent accumulation of ice, was much greater in the officers' +bed-places than in those of the men, in consequence of the former +being necessarily placed in close contact with the ship's sides, +and forming an immediate communication, as it were, with the +external atmosphere; whereas in the latter there was a vacant +interval of eighteen inches in width interposed between them. To +prevent as much as possible, therefore, the injurious effects of +this evil upon the health of the officers, I appointed certain +days for the airing of their bedding by the fires, as well as for +that of the ships' companies. Every attention was paid to Mr. +Scallon's case by the medical gentlemen, and all our anti-scorbutics +were put in requisition for his recovery: these consisted +principally of preserved vegetable soups, lemon-juice, and sugar, +pickles, preserved currants and gooseberries, and spruce beer. I +began also, about this time, to raise a small quantity of mustard +and cress in my cabin, in small shallow boxes filled with mould, +and placed along the stovepipe; by these means, even in the severity +of winter, we could generally ensure a crop at the end of the sixth +or seventh day after sowing the seed, which, by keeping several +boxes at work, would give to two or three scorbutic patients nearly +an ounce of salad each daily, even though the necessary economy in +our coals did not allow of the fire being kept in at night. The +mustard and cress thus raised were necessarily colourless, from the +privation of light; but, as far as we could judge, they possessed +the same pungent aromatic taste as if grown under ordinary +circumstances. So effectual were these remedies in Mr. Scallon's +case, that, on the ninth evening from the attack, he was able to +walk about on the lower deck for some time, and he assured me that +he could then "run a race." + +At noon on the 7th, the temperature of the atmosphere had got down +to 49° below zero, being the greatest degree of cold which we had +yet experienced; but the weather being quite calm, we walked on +shore for an hour without inconvenience, the sensation of cold +depending much more on the degree of wind at the time than on the +absolute temperature of the atmosphere as indicated by the +thermometer. In several of the accounts given of those countries +in which an intense degree of natural cold is experienced, some +effects are attributed to it which certainly did not come under +our observation in the course of this winter. The first of these +is the dreadful sensation said to be produced on the lungs, +causing them to feel as if torn asunder when the air is inhaled at +a very low temperature. No such sensation was ever experienced by +us, though in going from the cabins into the open air, and _vice +versâ_, we were constantly in the habit for some months of +undergoing a change of from 80° to 100°, and, in several +instances, 120° of temperature in less than one minute; and, what +is still more extraordinary, not a single inflammatory complaint, +beyond a slight cold, which was cured by common care in a day or +two, occurred during this particular period. The second is, the +vapour with which the air of an inhabited room is charged, +condensing into a shower of snow immediately on the opening of a +door or window communicating with the external atmosphere. This +goes much beyond anything that we had an opportunity of observing. +What happened with us was simply this: on the opening of the doors +at the top and bottom of our hatchway ladders, the vapour was +immediately condensed, by the sudden admission of the cold air, +into a visible form, exactly resembling a very thick smoke, which +settled on all the panels of the doors and bulkheads, and +immediately froze, by which means the latter were covered with a +thick coating of ice, which it was necessary frequently to scrape +off; but we never, to my knowledge, saw the conversion of the +vapour into snow during its fall. + +On the evening of the 15th, the atmosphere being clear and serene, +we were gratified by a sight of the only very brilliant and +diversified display of Aurora Borealis which occurred during the +whole winter. I believe it to be almost impossible for words to +give an idea of the beauty and variety which this magnificent +phenomenon displayed. + +About this time it had been remarked, that a white setter dog had +left the Griper for several nights past at the same time, and had +regularly returned after some hours' absence. As the daylight +increased, we had frequent opportunities of seeing him in company +with a she-wolf, with which he kept up an almost daily intercourse +for several weeks, till at length he returned no more to the +ships; having either lost his way by rambling to too great a +distance, or, what is more likely, perhaps, been destroyed by the +male wolves. Some time after, a large dog of mine, which was also +getting into the habit of occasionally remaining absent for some +time, returned on board a good deal lacerated and covered with +blood, having no doubt maintained a severe encounter with a male +wolf, which we traced to a considerable distance by the tracks on +the snow. An old dog, of the Newfoundland breed, that we had on +board the Hecla, was also in the habit of remaining out with the +wolves for a day or two together; and we frequently watched them +keeping company on the most friendly terms. + +A wolf, which crossed the harbour close to the ships on the 25th, +was observed to be almost entirely white, his body long and +extremely lean, standing higher on his legs than any of the +Esquimaux dogs, but otherwise much resembling them; his tail was +long and bushy, and always hanging between his legs, and he kept +his head very low in running. It is extraordinary that we could +never succeed in killing or catching one of these animals, though +we were for months almost constantly endeavouring to do so. + +On the 1st and 2d of February the weather was rather hazy, so that +the sun could not have been seen had it been above the horizon; +but the 3d was a beautifully clear and calm day. At eight A.M. a +cross, consisting of the usual vertical and horizontal rays, was +seen about the moon. At twenty minutes before apparent noon, the +sun was seen from the Hecla's main-top, at the height of fifty-one +feet above the sea, being the first time that this luminary had +been visible to us since the 11th of November, a period of +eighty-four days, being twelve days less than the time of its +remaining actually beneath the horizon, independently of the +effects of atmospherical refraction. On ascending the main-top, I +found the sun to be plainly visible over the land to the south; +but at noon there was a dusky sort of cloud hanging about the +horizon, which prevented our seeing anything like a defined limb, +so as to measure or estimate its altitude correctly. + +At noon on the 7th we had the first clear view of the sun which we +had yet enjoyed since its reappearance above our horizon, and an +indistinct parhelion, or mock sun, slightly prismatic, was seen on +the eastern side of it, at the distance of 22°. + +There was now sufficient daylight, from eight o'clock till four, +to enable us to perform with great facility any work outside the +ships. I was not sorry to commence upon some of the occupations +more immediately connected with the equipment of the ships for sea +than those to which we had hitherto been obliged to have recourse +as mere employment. We therefore began this day to collect stones +for ballast, of which it was calculated that the Hecla would +require in the spring nearly seventy tons, besides twenty tons of +additional water, to make up for the loss of weight by the +expenditure of provisions and stores. These stones were brought +down on sledges about half a mile to the beach, where they were +broken into a convenient size for stowage, and then weighed in +scales erected on the beach for the purpose; thus affording to the +men a considerable quantity of bodily exercise whenever the +weather would permit them to be so employed. + +The distance at which sounds were heard in the open air, during +the continuance of intense cold, was so great as constantly to +afford matter of surprise to us, notwithstanding the frequency +with which we had occasion to remark it. We have, for instance, +often heard people distinctly conversing, in a common tone of +voice, at the distance of a mile; and to-day I heard a man singing +to himself as he walked along the beach, at even a greater +distance than this. Another circumstance also occurred to-day, +which may perhaps be considered as worthy of notice. Lieutenant +Beechey, and Messrs. Beverly and Fisher, in the course of a walk +which led them to a part of the harbour, about two miles directly +to leeward of the ships, were surprised by suddenly perceiving a +smell of smoke, so strong as even to impede their breathing, till, +by walking on a little farther, they got rid of it. This +circumstance shows to what a distance the smoke from the ships was +carried horizontally, owing to the difficulty with which it rises +at a very low temperature of the atmosphere. + +From four P.M. on the 14th till half past seven on the following +morning, being an interval of fifteen hours and a half, during +which time the weather was clear and nearly calm, a thermometer, +fixed on a pole between the ships and the shore, never rose above +-54°, and was once during that interval, namely, at six in the +morning, as low as -55°. During the lowest temperature above +mentioned, which was the most intense degree of cold marked by the +spirit-thermometer during our stay in Winter Harbour, not the +slightest inconvenience was suffered from exposure to the open air +by a person well clothed, as long as the weather was perfectly +calm; but, in walking against a very light air of wind, a smart +sensation was experienced all over the face, accompanied by a pain +in the middle of the forehead, which soon became rather severe. We +amused ourselves in freezing some mercury during the continuance +of this cold weather, and by beating it out on an anvil previously +reduced to the temperature of the atmosphere; it did not appear to +be very malleable when in this state, usually breaking after two +or three blows from the hammer. + +The increased length of the day, and the cheering presence of the +sun for several hours above the horizon, induced me, notwithstanding +the severity of the weather, to open the dead-lights of my +stern windows, in order to admit the daylight, of which, in our +occupations below, we had entirely been deprived for more than four +months. I had soon, however, occasion to find that this change was +rather premature, and that I had not rightly calculated on the length +of the winter in Melville Island. The Hecla was fitted with double +windows in her stern, the interval between the two sashes being about +two feet; and within these some curtains of baize had been nailed +close in the early part of the winter. On endeavouring now to remove +the curtains, they were found to be so strongly cemented to the +windows by the frozen vapour collected between them, that it was +necessary to cut them off in order to open the windows; and from the +space between the double sashes we removed more than twelve large +buckets full of ice or frozen vapour, which had accumulated in the +same manner. + +About noon on the 16th, a parhelion, faintly prismatic, appeared +on each side of the sun, continuing only for half an hour. +Notwithstanding the low temperature of the external atmosphere, +the officers contrived to act, as usual, the play announced for +this evening; but it must be confessed that it was almost too cold +for either the actors or the audience to enjoy it, especially for +those of the former who undertook to appear in female dresses. + +In the constant hope that each succeeding day would produce some +amendment in the weather, we endeavoured contentedly to put up +with the cold, which, however, continued to be so intense in the +cabin for several weeks after this, that it was impossible to sit +there without being warmly wrapped up; and it was not uncommon for +us, at this period, to reverse the usual order of things, by +throwing off our great coats when we went on deck to warm +ourselves by exercise (the only mode we had of doing so), and +immediately resuming them on coming below. + +With our present temperature, the breath of a person at a little +distance looked exactly like the smoke of a musket just fired, and +that of a party of men employed upon the ice to-day resembled a +thick white cloud. + +At a quarter past ten on Thursday, the 24th, while the men were +running round the decks for exercise, and were on that account +fortunately well clothed, the house on shore was discovered to be +on fire. All the officers and men of both ships instantly ran up +to extinguish it; and having, by great exertion, pulled off the +roof with ropes, and knocked down a part of the sides, so as to +allow snow to be thrown upon the flames, we succeeded in getting +it under after three quarters of an hour, and fortunately before +the fire had reached that end of the house where the two clocks, +together with the transit and other valuable instruments, were +standing in their cases. Having removed these, and covered the +ruins with snow, to prevent any remains of fire from breaking out +again, we returned on board till more temperate weather should +enable us to dig out the rest of the things, among which nothing +of any material consequence was subsequently found to have +suffered injury; and, having mustered the ships' companies to see +that they had put on dry clothes before going to dinner, they were +employed daring the rest of the day in drying those which had been +wet. The appearance which our faces presented at the fire was a +curious one, almost every nose and cheek having become quite white +with frostbites in five minutes after being exposed to the +weather; so that it was deemed necessary for the medical +gentlemen, together with some others appointed to assist them, to +go constantly round while the men were working at the fire, and to +rub with snow the parts affected, in order to restore animation. +Notwithstanding this precaution, which, however, saved many +frostbites, we had an addition of no less than sixteen men to the +sick lists of both ships in consequence of this accident. Among +these there were four or five cases which kept the patients +confined for several weeks; but John Smith, of the artillery, who +was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant +Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fire broke +out, was unfortunate enough to suffer much more severely. In their +anxiety to save the dipping-needle, which was standing close to +the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediately ran +out with it; and Smith, not having time to put on his gloves, had +his fingers in half an hour so benumbed and the animation so +completely suspended, that on his being taken on board by Mr. +Edwards, and having his hands plunged into a basin of cold water, +the surface of the water was immediately frozen by the intense +cold thus suddenly communicated to it; and, notwithstanding the +most humane and unremitting attention paid to them by the medical +gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, to resort to +the amputation of a part of four fingers on one hand and three on +the other. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +Before sunrise on the morning of the 1st of March, Lieutenant +Beechey remarked so much bright red light near the southeastern +horizon, that he constantly thought the sun was rising nearly half +an hour before it actually appeared; there was a column of light +above the sun similar to those which we had before seen. The day +being clear and moderate, a party of men were employed in digging +out the things which were buried in the ruins; the clocks were +removed on board for examination, and preparations were made to +rebuild the house for their reception. + +The 5th of March was the most mild and pleasant day we had +experienced for several weeks, and after divine service had been +performed, almost all the officers and men in both ships were glad +to take advantage of it, by enjoying a long walk upon the +neighbouring hills. The weather had been hazy, with light snow and +some clouds in the morning; but the latter gradually dispersed +after noon, affording us the first day to which we could attach +the idea of spring. + +We continued to enjoy the same temperature and enlivening weather +on the 7th, and now began to flatter ourselves in earnest that the +season had taken that favourable change for which we had so long +been looking with extreme anxiety and impatience. This hope was +much strengthened by a circumstance which occurred to-day, and +which, trifling as it would have appeared in any other situation +than ours, was to us a matter of no small interest and satisfaction. +This was no other than the thawing of a small quantity of snow in +a favourable situation upon the black paintwork of the ship's stern, +which exactly faced the south; being the first time that such an +event had occurred for more than five months. + +The severe weather which, until the last two or three days, we had +experienced, had been the means of keeping in a solid state all +the vapour which had accumulated and frozen upon the ship's sides +on the lower deck. As long as it continued in this state, it did +not prove a source of annoyance, especially as it had no +communication with the bed-places. The late mildness of the +weather, however, having caused a thaw to take place below, it now +became necessary immediately to scrape off the coating of ice, and +it will, perhaps, be scarcely credited, that we this day removed +about one hundred buckets full, each containing from five to six +gallons, being the accumulation which had taken place in an +interval of less than four weeks. It may be observed, that this +vapour must principally have been produced from the men's breath, +and from the steam of their victuals during meals, that from the +coppers being effectually carried on deck by the screen which I +have before mentioned. + +On the 9th it blew a hard gale from the northward and westward, +raising a snowdrift, which made the day almost as inclement as in +the midst of winter. The wind very suddenly ceased in the evening, +and while the atmosphere near the ships was so serene and +undisturbed that the smoke rose quite perpendicularly, we saw the +snowdrift on the hills, at one or two miles' distance, whirled up +into the air, in columns several hundred feet high, and carried +along by the wind, sometimes to the north, and at others in the +opposite direction. The snow thus raised at times resembled +waterspouts, but more frequently appeared like smoke issuing from +the tops of the hills, and as such was at first represented to me. + +It blew a strong breeze from the N.b.W., with a heavy snowdrift, +on the 12th, which continued, with little intermission, till near +noon on the 14th; affording us a convincing proof that the hopes +with which we had flattered ourselves of the speedy return of +spring were not yet to be accomplished. + +On the 16th, there being little wind, the weather was again +pleasant and comfortable, though the thermometer remained very +low. + +This evening the officers performed the farces of the _Citizen_ +and the _Mayor of Garratt_, being the last of our theatrical +amusements for this winter, the season having now arrived when +there would no longer be a want of occupation for the men, and +when it became necessary also to remove a part of the roofing to +admit light to the officers' cabins. Our poets were again set to +work on this occasion, and an appropriate address was spoken on +the closing of the North Georgia Theatre, than which we may, +without vanity, be permitted to say, none had ever done more real +service to the community for whose benefit it was intended. + +On the 23d we found, by digging a hole in the ice, in the middle +of the harbour, where the depth of water was four fathoms and a +quarter, that its thickness was six feet and a half, and the snow +on the surface of it eight inches deep. This may be considered a +fair specimen of the average formation of ice in this neighbourhood +since the middle of the preceding September: and as the freezing +process did not stop for six weeks after this, the produce of the +whole winter may, perhaps, be reasonably taken at seven, or seven +and a half feet. In chopping this ice with an axe the men found it +very hard and brittle, till they arrived within a foot of the lower +surface, where it became soft and spongy. + +Being extremely anxious to get rid, as early as possible, of the +drying of our washed clothes upon the lower deck, I had to-day a +silk handkerchief washed and hung up under the stern, in order to +try the effect of the sun's rays upon it. In four hours it became +thoroughly dry, the thermometer in the shade being from -18° to +-6° at the time. This was the first article that had been dried +without artificial heat for six months, and it was yet another +month before flannel could be dried in the open air. When this is +considered, as well as that, during the same period, the airing of +the bedding, the drying of the bed-places, and the ventilation of +the inhabited parts of the ship, were wholly dependant on the same +means, and this with a very limited supply of fuel, it may, +perhaps be conceived, in some degree, what unremitting attention +was necessary to the preservation of health, under circumstances +so unfavourable and even prejudicial. + +The morning of April 27th being very fine, and the thermometer at ++6°, the ship's company's bedding was hung up to air, between the +fore and main rigging, being the first time we had ventured to +bring it from the lower deck for nearly eight months. While it was +out, the berths and bed-places were fumigated with a composition +of gunpowder mixed with vinegar, and known familiarly by the name +of _devils_; an operation which had been regularly gone through +once a week during the winter. + +For the last three or four days of April the snow on the black +cloth of our housing had begun to thaw a little during a few hours +in the middle of the day, and on the 30th so rapid a change took +place in the temperature of the atmosphere, that the thermometer +stood at the freezing, or, as it may more properly be termed in +this climate, the thawing point, being the first time that such an +event had occurred for nearly eight months, or since the 9th of +the preceding September. This temperature was to our feelings, so +much like that of summer, that I was under the necessity of using +my authority to prevent the men from making such an alteration in +their clothing as might have been attended with very dangerous +consequences. The thermometer had ranged from -32° to +32° in the +course of twenty days. There was, at this period, more snow upon +the ground than at any other time of the year, the average depth +on the lower parts of the land being four or five inches, but much +less upon the hills; while in the ravines a very large quantity +had been collected. The snow at this time became so soft, from the +influence of the sun upon it, as to make walking very laborious +and unpleasant. + +The fine and temperate weather with which the month of April had +concluded, induced Captain Sabine to set the clocks going, in +order to commence his observations for the pendulum, and he now +took up his quarters entirely on shore for that purpose. On the +first of May, however, it blew a strong gale from the northward, +which made it impossible to keep up the desired temperature in the +house: and so heavy was the snowdrift, that in a few hours the +house was nearly covered, and we were obliged to communicate with +Captain Sabine and his attendants through a small window, from +which the snow was, with much labour, cleared away, the door being +quite inaccessible. We saw the sun at midnight for the first time +this season. + +The gale and snowdrift continued on the following day, when we had +literally to dig out the sentries, who attended the fire at the +house, in order to have them relieved. + +On the 6th, the thermometer rose no higher than +8½° during the +day; but, as the wind was moderate, and it was high time to +endeavour to get the ships once more fairly afloat, we commenced +the operation of cutting the ice about them. In order to prevent +the men suffering from wet and cold feet, a pair of strong boots +and boot-stockings were on this occasion served to each. + +On the 15th, two or three coveys of ptarmigan were seen, after +which they became more and more numerous, and a brace or two were +almost daily procured for the sick, for whose use they were +exclusively reserved. As it was of the utmost importance, under +our present circumstances, that every ounce of game which we might +thus procure should be served in lieu of other meat, I now renewed +the orders formerly given, that every animal killed was to be +considered as public property; and, as such, to be regularly +issued like any other kind of provision, without the slightest +distinction between the messes of the officers and those of the +ships' companies. + +Some of our men having, in the course of their shooting +excursions, been exposed for several hours to the glare of the sun +and snow, returned at night much affected with that painful +inflammation in the eyes occasioned by the reflection of intense +light from the snow, aided by the warmth of the sun, and called in +America "snow blindness." This complaint, of which the sensation +exactly resembles that produced by large particles of sand or dust +in the eyes, is cured by some tribes of American Indians by +holding them over the steam of warm water; but we found a cooling +wash, made by a small quantity of acetate of lead mixed with cold +water, more efficacious in relieving the irritation, which was +always done in three or four days, even in the most severe cases, +provided the eyes were carefully guarded from the light. As a +preventive of this complaint, a piece of black crape was given to +each man, to be worn as a kind of short veil attached to the hat, +which we found to be very serviceable. A still more convenient +mode, adopted by some of the officers, was found equally +efficacious; this consisted in taking the glasses out of a pair of +spectacles, and substituting black or green crape, the glass +having been found to heat the eyes and increase the irritation. + +On the 17th we completed the operation of cutting the ice round +the Hecla, which was performed in the following manner. We began +by digging a large hole under the stern, being the same as that in +which the tide-pole was placed, in order to enter the saw, which +occupied us nearly two days, only a small number of men being able +to work at it. In the mean time, all the snow and rubbish was +cleared away from the ship's side, leaving only the solid ice to +work upon; and a trench, two feet wide, was cut the whole length +of the starboard side, from the stem to the rudder, keeping within +an inch or two of the bends; and taking care here and there to +leave a dike, to prevent the water which might ooze into one part +from filling up the others in which the men were working. In this +manner was the trench cut with axes to the depth of about four +feet and a half, leaving only eighteen inches for the saws to cut, +except in those places where the dikes remained. The saw, being +then entered in the hole under the stern, was worked in the usual +manner, being suspended by a triangle made of three spars: one cut +being made on the outer part of the trench, and a second within an +inch or two of the bends, in order to avoid injuring the planks. A +small portion of ice being broken off now and then by bars, +handspikes, and ice-chisels, floated, to the surface, and was +hooked out by piecemeal. This operation was a cold and tedious one +and required nine days to complete it. When the workmen had this +morning completed the trench within ten or twelve feet of the +stern, the ship suddenly disengaged herself from the ice, to which +she had before been firmly adhering on the larboard side, and rose +in the water about ten inches abaft, and nearly eighteen inches +forward, with a considerable surge. This circumstance it was not +difficult to explain. In the course of the winter, the strong +eddy-winds about the ships had formed round them a drift of snow +seven or eight feet deep in some parts, and perhaps weighing a +hundred tons; by which the ice, and the ships with it, were +carried down much below the natural level at which they would +otherwise have floated. In the mean time the ships had become +considerably lighter, from expenditure of several months' +provisions: so that, on both these accounts, they had naturally a +tendency to rise in the water as soon as they were set at liberty. + +A party of hands were occupied in breaking and weighing the stones +for ballast, while others were getting out the sails and boats; and +our carpenters, armourers, coopers, and sailmakers having each +their respective employments, our little colony now presented the +most busy and bustling scene that can be imagined. It was found +necessary to caulk every part of the upper works, as well as all +the decks, the seams having been so much opened by the frost as to +require at least one, and in many parts two threads of oakum, +though the ship had scarcely ever laboured at all since she was +last caulked. I also at this time laid out a small garden, planting +it with radishes, onions, mustard, and cress; and a similar attempt +was made by Lieutenant Liddon; but, notwithstanding every care and +attention which could be paid to it, this experiment may be said to +have wholly failed, the radishes not exceeding an inch in length by +the latter end of July, and the other seeds being altogether thrown +away. I may remark, however, that some common ships' peas, which +were sown by our people for their amusement, were found to thrive +so well, that, had I been sooner aware of it, a great quantity of +the leaves at least of this vegetable might have been grown, which, +when boiled and eaten as greens, would have been no small treat to +persons deprived of fresh vegetable substance for more than ten +months. + +Having considered that an examination of the extent and +productions of the island might be conducive to the improvement of +the geography and natural history of these regions, and the good +state of health enjoyed by the crews permitting a certain number +of men to be spared from each ship during their equipment for sea, +I now determined to undertake a journey into the interior for this +purpose, accompanied by a certain number of officers and men who +volunteered their services on the occasion; and the 1st of June +was fixed for our departure. + +Early on the morning of the 24th Mr. Allison reported that he had +felt a few drops of rain fall upon his face, an event which we had +scarcely dared to anticipate so soon, but which was hailed with +much satisfaction, as nothing appears to be so effectual as rain +in producing the dissolution of the ice. The clouds had a watery +appearance throughout the day, and at half past eight in the +evening we were agreeably surprised by a smart shower of rain, +which was shortly after succeeded by several others. + +Early on the morning of the 29th the wind increased to a fresh +gale from the northward and westward, which continued during the +day, with a heavy fall of snow and a tremendous drift, that +prevented our seeing to the distance of more than twenty yards +around the ships. The following day being fine, I took my +travelling party to the top of the northeast hill, in order to try +the cart which had been constructed for carrying the tents and +baggage, and which appeared to answer very well. The view from +this hill was not such as to offer much encouragement to our hopes +of future advancement to the westward. The sea still presented the +same unbroken and continuous surface of solid and impenetrable +ice, and this ice could not be less than from six to seven feet in +thickness, as we knew it to be about the ships. When to this +circumstance was added the consideration that scarcely the +slightest symptoms of thawing had yet appeared, and that in three +weeks from this period the sun would again begin to decline to the +southward, it must be confessed that the most sanguine and +enthusiastic among us had some reason to be staggered in the +expectations they had formed of the complete accomplishment of our +enterprise. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +The weather being favourable on the morning of the 1st of June, I +made such arrangements as were necessary previous to my departure +on our intended journey. I directed Lieutenants Liddon and Beechey +to proceed with all possible despatch in the equipment of the +ships for sea, having them ready to sail by the end of June, in +order that we might be able to take advantage of any favourable +alteration in the state of the ice at an earlier period than +present appearances allowed us to anticipate. + +The party selected to accompany me, out of the numerous volunteers +on this occasion, consisted of Captain Sabine, Messrs. Fisher, +Nias, Reid, and Sergeant McMahon, of the marines, Sergeant Martin, +of the artillery, and three seamen and two marines belonging to +both ships, making a total of twelve, including myself. We were +supplied with provisions for three weeks, according to the daily +proportion of one pound of biscuit, two thirds of a pound of +preserved meat, one ounce of salep powder, one ounce of sugar, and +half a pint of spirits for each man. Two tents, of the kind called +in the army horsemen's tents, were made of blankets, with two +boarding-pikes fixed across at each end, and a ridge-rope along +the top, which, with stones laid upon the foot of the blankets, +made a very comfortable and portable shelter. These tents, with +the whole of the provisions, together with a _conjuror_ or cooking +apparatus, and a small quantity of wood for fuel, amounting on the +whole to eight hundred pounds, were carried upon a strong but +light cart constructed for the purpose: this method having been +decided on as the most convenient for the country in which we were +about to travel. + +Each officer and man was also furnished with a blanket made into a +bag, with a drawing-string at each end, a pair of spare shoes, and +stockings, a flannel shirt, and a cap to sleep in. The clothing +and blankets were carried on our backs in knapsacks, those of the +officers weighing from seventeen to twenty-four pounds each, and +one between every two men weighing twenty-four pounds, to be +carried for half a day alternately. + +At five P.M. we left the ships, accompanied by a large party of +officers and men from each, who were desirous of relieving us from +the weight of our knapsacks for an hour or two; and, having been +cheered by the ships on our departure, we went round the head of +the harbour, and ascended the northeast hill, our companions left +us at eight P.M., and we proceeded across a level plain almost +entirely covered with snow, which, however, was so hard as to make +the travelling very good; and the cart was dragged along without +difficulty. At eleven P.M. we came to three remarkable round +hills; composed entirely of sand and masses of sandstone, and +halted to dine close to the northward of them. Those parts of the +land which were clear of snow appeared to be more productive than +those in the immediate neighbourhood of Winter Harbour, the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, and poppy being more abundant, and the moss +more luxuriant; we, could not, however, collect a sufficient +quantity of the slender wood of the willow, in a dry state, for +the purpose of dissolving snow for water, and were therefore +obliged to use a part of the fuel which we had provided for that +purpose. The thermometer stood at 31° at midnight. + +Having set off soon after midnight, at the distance of half a mile +in a N.b.E. direction we came to a piece of frozen water, half a +mile in length and two hundred yards wide, situated on the south +side of the range of hills which bound the prospect from Winter +Harbour. The ice on the surface of this lake or pond was in some +parts nearly dissolved, and in all too soft to allow us to cross +it. We halted at half past six A.M., and pitched the tents on the +hardest ground we could find, but it became quite swampy in the +course of the day. We killed seven ptarmigan, and saw two plovers +and two deer, being the first we had met with this season, with a +fawn so small as to leave no doubt of its having been dropped +since the arrival of the female upon the island. They were so wild +as not to allow us to approach them within a quarter of a mile. +The day was fine, with light and variable airs; the thermometer +stood at 34° in the shade at seven A.M., at which time it was +unfortunately broken. + +We again set forward at two A.M. on the 3d, crossing one or two +ravines, running E.N.E. and W.S.W., in which there was a large +collection of snow, but as yet no appearance of water in the +bottom of them. Captain Sabine and myself, being considerably +ahead of the rest of the party, had sat down to wait for them, +when a fine reindeer came trotting up, and played round us for a +quarter of an hour, within thirty yards. We had no gun, nor do I +know that we should have killed it if we had, there being already +as much weight upon the cart as the men could well drag, and +having no fuel to spare for cooking; besides, we felt it would +have been but an ill return for the confidence which he seemed +willing to place in us. On hearing our people talking on the +opposite side of the ravine, the deer immediately crossed over, +and went directly up to them, with very little caution; and they +being less scrupulous than we were, one or two shots were +immediately fired at him, but without effect; on which he again +crossed over to where we were sitting, approaching us nearer than +before. As soon as we rose up and walked on, he accompanied us +like a dog, sometimes trotting ahead of us, and then returning +within forty or fifty yards. When we halted, at six A.M., to make +the usual observations, he remained by us till the rest of the +party came up, and then trotted off. The reindeer is by no means a +graceful animal; its high shoulders, and an awkward stoop in its +head, giving it rather a deformed appearance. Our new acquaintance +had no horns; he was of a brownish colour, with a black saddle, a +broad black rim round the eyes, and very white about the tail. We +observed that, whenever he was about to set off, he made a sort of +playful gambol, by rearing on his hind legs. + +At two o'clock on the morning of the 4th we continued our journey +to the northward, over the same snowy and level plain as before, +than which it is impossible to conceive anything more dreary and +uninteresting. It frequently happened that, for an hour together, +not a single spot of uncovered ground could be seen. The breeze +freshened up to a gale from the S.S.E. as we proceeded, and the +men, as if determined not to forget that they were sailors, set a +large blanket upon the cart as a sail, which, upon the present +level ground, was found to be of material assistance. The snow was +deep and rather soft, which made the travelling heavy; and as the +wind produced a good deal of snowdrift, most of the bare patches +of ground became covered up, so that, when our time for halting +had arrived, not a piece of ground could be seen on which to pitch +the tents. Captain Sabine and myself went forward to look out for +a spot, and at length were fortunate to meet with one, on which +there was just room for our little encampment. It was with some +difficulty, by building a wall with stones and our knapsacks, that +we prevented its being covered with snow before the party came up, +which they did at half past seven A.M., having travelled ten miles +in a N.W.b.N. direction. + +By the time we had secured the tents the wind blew hard, with a +continued fall, as well as drift of snow, so that we could not but +consider ourselves fortunate in having met with a spot of ground +in good time. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, we +found the tents afford us very comfortable and sufficient shelter, +the cart being tilted up to windward of them, so as to break up +some measure the violence of the wind; and, when wrapped up, or, +rather, enclosed in our blanket bags, we were generally quite warm +enough to enjoy the most sound and refreshing repose. + +It continued to blow and snow till seven P.M., when the wind +having veered to the S.W., and become more moderate, we struck the +tents; and having now placed the men's knapsacks on the cart, to +enable them to drag with greater facility, we proceeded on our +journey to the northward. We passed a narrow but deep ravine lying +across our course, in some parts of which the snow reached nearly +to a level with the banks, forming a kind of bridges or causeways, +on one of which we crossed without difficulty. The men had hoisted +one sail upon the cart at first setting off; but the wind being +now, as they expressed it, "on the larboard quarter," a second +blanket was rigged as a mainsail, to their great amusement as well +as relief. + +After crossing a second ravine, on the north side of which the +ground rose considerably, we entered upon another snowy plain, +where there was nothing to be seen in any direction but snow and +sky. To make it the more dreary, a thick fog came on as the night +advanced; and as this prevented our taking any mark more than +fifty or a hundred yards ahead, we had to place the compass, by +which we were now entirely travelling, upon the ground every five +minutes; and as it traversed with great sluggishness, we made a +very crooked and uncertain course. For more than two hours we did +not pass a single spot of uncovered ground, nor even a stone +projecting above the snow. + +The fog continued too thick to allow us to move till six A.M., at +which time we resumed our journey. There was a broad and distant +haze-bow of very white and dazzling light directly opposite the +sun. The weather being still too foggy to see more than a quarter +of a mile ahead, it was with considerable difficulty that we could +proceed on a tolerably straight course. To effect this, it was +necessary to determine the point on which we were walking by the +bearing of the sun, which was still visible, and the apparent +time, and then to take a mark ahead by which our course was to be +directed. From the thickness of the weather, however, it was +necessary to repeat this operation every five or ten minutes, +which, together with the uniform whiteness and intense glare of +the snow, became so extremely painful to the eyes, that Mr. Fisher +and myself, who went ahead as guides, soon became affected with +snow blindness, and the headmost man at the cart, whose business +it was constantly to watch our motions, began to suffer in a +similar manner from the same cause. + +It may, perhaps, be conceived, then, under these circumstances, +how pleasing was the relief afforded by our seeing, at eight A.M., +a stripe of black or uncovered land ahead, which proved to be the +bank of a ravine fifty or sixty feet deep and three hundred yards +wide, on the north side of which we pitched the tents, having made +good only one mile and a half, the snow being so soft and deep as +to make it difficult to drag the cart through it. + +The latitude observed here was 75° 22' 43", and the longitude, by +the chronometer, 111° 14' 26"; in which situation a cylinder of +tin, containing an account of our visit, was deposited under a +pile of stones eight feet high and seven feet broad at the base. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze from the S.S.E. on the 6th, +with a sharp frost, making it very cold in the tents, which we +therefore struck at four A.M., and at the distance of half a mile +came to the summit of a hill overlooking what appeared to be a +frozen sea before us. We then descended the hill, with the +intention of pushing forward to determine whether the white and +level space before us was the sea or not. We had not proceeded +far, however, when the clouds began to gather heavily in the +southeast, and shortly after snow and sleet began to fall. Being +unwilling, therefore, to allow the men's clothes to be wet when +there was no absolute occasion for it, we halted on a piece of dry +ground, and, having built a wall six feet high to shelter us from +the weather, pitched the tents very comfortably under the lee of +it till the weather should allow us to proceed. + +At six P.M., the wind having gradually got round to the N.N.E., +and the weather being more clear and cold, I set out, accompanied +by Messrs. Nias and Reid, and a quartermaster of the Griper, with +the intention of examining the situation and appearance of the sea +to the northward; leaving the rest of the party, several of whom +were suffering from snow-blindness, though otherwise in good +health, to remain quietly in the tents till our return. Having +travelled N.N.W. a mile and a half through much deep snow, of +which a good deal had fallen during the day, we came to some ice +thrown up on the beach, having cracks in it parallel to the line +of the shore, which we immediately recognised to be of the same +kind as those to which we had so long been accustomed in Winter +Harbour, and which are occasioned by the rise and fall of the +tide. We turned to the westward along the beach, and at the +distance of two miles ascended a point of land in that direction, +from whence we had a commanding view of the objects around us. As +soon as we had gained the summit of this point, which is about +eighty feet above the sea, we had an additional confirmation that +it was the sea which we had now reached, the ice being thrown upon +the beach under the point, and as far as we could see to the +westward, in large, high, irregular masses, exactly similar to +those which had so often afforded us anchorage and shelter upon +the southern shores of the island. Being desirous, however, of +leaving nothing uncertain respecting it, we walked out a few +hundred yards upon the ice, and began with a boarding-pike and our +knives, which were all the tools we had, to dig a hole in it, in +order to taste the water beneath. After nearly two hours' labour, +we could only get down as many feet, the ice being very hard, +brittle, and transparent; more so, as we imagined, than salt-water +ice usually is, which made us the more desirous to get through it. +I therefore determined to return to our people, and to remove our +encampment hither, for the purpose of completing the hole through +the ice with all our hands, while we were obtaining the necessary +observations on shore. + +On our return to the tents, we dined, and rested till one o'clock +on the morning of the 7th, when we set out for the point, at which +we did not arrive till half past four, the snow being here so deep +as to make the cart an improper, and, indeed, almost impracticable +mode of conveying our baggage. It froze all day in the shade, with +a fresh breeze from the north; and, though the tents were pitched +under the lee of the grounded ice upon the beach, we found it +extremely cold; all the pools of water were frozen hard during the +night, and, some of our canteens burst from the same cause. The +people were allowed to rest after their supper till four P.M., and +were then set to work upon the ice and in building a monument on +the top of the Point. + +We dined at midnight; and at half past one A.M. on the 8th struck +the tents, and drew the cart to the higher part of the Point, +where we occupied two hours in completing our monument, which is +of a conical form, twelve feet broad at the base, and as many in +height. Within it were deposited a tin cylinder, containing an +account of the party who had left it, and one or two silver and +copper English coins. This monument may be seen at several miles' +distance from the sea or land side; and, as great pains were taken +by Mr. Fisher in constructing it, it may probably last for a long +period of years. + +Having now satisfactorily determined the extent of Melville Island +to the northward upon this meridian, which corresponds very nearly +with that of Winter Harbour, and finished all the requisite +observations, I proposed pursuing our journey towards the Blue +Hills, which were still in sight at the distance of several +leagues to the westward; and, having advanced to the southwest as +long as circumstances should appear to make it interesting or +practicable, to return by a circuitous route to the ships. We +travelled in a W.½S. direction, in order to keep on a ridge along +the coast, which afforded the only tolerable walking, the snow +being very deep on the lower parts of the land. We halted at half +past seven A.M., on a fine sandy ground, which gave us the +softest, as well as the driest bed which we had yet experienced on +our journey, and which was situated close to a little hillock of +earth and moss, so full of the burrows of hares as to resemble a +warren. We tried to smoke them out by burning port-fire, but none +appeared; and it is remarkable, that though we constantly met with +the dung of these animals, especially in this place, where it +occurred very abundantly, we never saw one of them during the +journey. As soon as we had halted, we found that Mr. Reid's +knapsack had dropped off the cart; he had therefore to go back to +look for it, and did not return till eleven o'clock, being so much +affected by snow-blindness as to be scarcely able to see his way +to the tents. This circumstance was, sufficient to show the +advantage, and even the necessity, of travelling entirely by night +under these circumstances, the intense glare of light from the +snow during the day inevitably producing this painful irritation +in the eyes. + +At a quarter past five P.M. we resumed our journey to the +southwest, and soon after crossed a snowy plain a mile and a +quarter in breadth, extending to the sea to the north, and as far +as the eye could reach to the south. Having travelled S.W.b.W. +seven miles, we halted, at half an hour before midnight, at the +distance of three or four miles from the sea, the weather being +very clear and fine, with a moderate breeze from the S.S.W. + +Having rested after our dinner till half past two A.M., we set out +again to the southwest, making, however, a very crooked course on +account of the irregularity of the ground. In the first quarter of +a mile we passed the first running stream which we had seen this +season, and this was but a small one, from six to twelve inches +deep. The ground, as well as the pools of water, was frozen hard +during the last night, but thawed during the day, which made +travelling worse and worse, as the sun acquired power. We passed a +few horns of deer, killed three ptarmigans, and saw a pair of +ducks. The plumage of the cock grouse was still quite white, +except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were of a fine +glossy black; but in every hen which we had lately killed, a very +perceptible alteration was apparent, even from day to day, and +their plumage had now nearly assumed that speckled colour which, +from its resemblance to that of the ground, is so admirably +adapted to preserve them from being seen at the season of their +incubation. We found it difficult, in general, to get near the +hens, which were very wild; but the male birds were at all times +stupidly tame. + +At half past two A.M. on the 10th we struck the tents, and +proceeded to the S.W., the wind having got round to the S.E., with +continued snow. At the distance of two miles we entered upon a +level plain three miles wide, which, with the exception of a patch +here and there, was entirely covered with snow. The uncovered +parts of this plain were so wet as to be almost impassable for the +cart; and we were now as desirous of keeping on the snow as, at +the beginning of our journey from Winter Harbour, we had been +anxious to avoid it. + +The weather continued hazy, with snow occasionally, but our +clothes dried in the sun towards noon; soon after which, however, +the snow became more thick and constant, so that we could scarcely +see a hundred yards around the tents. We waited for some time in +hope of the weather clearing, and then, at a quarter past five, +continued our journey; as we were under the necessity, however, of +directing our course entirely by compass, which is here a very +uncertain and deceitful guide, we made but a slow and tedious +progress. The wind freshened up to a gale from the S.E. soon after +we had set out, which made it impossible for us any longer to +pursue our journey, and we began to look out for a spot on which +the tents could be pitched, so as to afford us a dry flooring, if +not shelter, during the gale. Having crossed three ravines within +a mile and a quarter, we at length came to a very deep one, which +was nearly perpendicular on each side, with the snow overhanging +in some parts, so as to make it dangerous to go near the edge of +the bank. We were at length fortunate in finding a narrow, sloping +ridge of snow, leading down to the bottom of the ravine; and +having descended this with some difficulty, we found such good +shelter as to determine me to halt here for the night, which now +became more and more inclement. + +The wind gradually veered to the N.N.W. in the morning, and the +weather having cleared up about half past four, we struck the +tents and set off to the southward. The south bank of the ravine +being nearly as steep, and much higher than the other, it was with +considerable labour and difficulty that we were able to get the +cart up it, in which, however, we succeeded by six o'clock, when +we found that we were travelling on much higher ground than +before, overlooking that which we had left the preceding evening. +Having proceeded four miles over a level country, with much snow +upon it, we suddenly and unexpectedly came in sight of the sea or +a lake, at the distance of two or three miles before us, just +appearing between two high and steep hills, which terminated a +deep and broad ravine. We hastened forward to the point of the +nearest hill, from whence the prospect was extremely grand and +picturesque. We were looking down nearly perpendicular from a +height of eight or nine hundred feet, on an extensive plain of +ice, of which, to the westward, we could perceive no termination +for a distance of five or six leagues, the prospect to the +eastward being obstructed by other hills. A thick mist or vapour +was at times carried rapidly along by the wind over this ice, to +which it was entirely confined, occasionally covering the top of +the island with a dense cloud. The impression made upon our minds +at the time was, that it was a frozen lake on which we were now +looking; but this conjecture, as it afterward appeared, proved +erroneous. The ravine at which we had arrived discharges its +waters into a snug cove two or three miles deep, at the head of +which we now proposed resting, if a place could be found at which +our descent into the ravine could be effected. The sides of the +ravine, which were very steep, were covered with innumerable +blocks, of sandstone of every size and shape, over which alone any +road could be found to the cove below. It was necessary, +therefore, to make the attempt, but it was impossible for the best +built carriage to travel long on such a road; and when we had half +descended the bank, which led into the ravine on its north side, +the axle-tree broke short in the middle. The baggage was therefore +taken off and carried down to the bottom, where the tents were +pitched at eleven A.M., the wheels being left where the cart broke +down, as sound as at first. + +The latitude observed here was 75° 12' 50", the longitude, by +chronometer, 111° 50' 05", and the variation of the magnetic +needle 125° 12' 22" easterly. The wind being fresh from the +W.N.W., and the weather being cold and raw, we built a wall to the +windward of the tents, as a substitute for the usual shelter +afforded by the cart; after supper, the people, being a good deal +fatigued, were allowed to rest till near midnight, and then +employed in arranging the baggage so as to carry it on our +shoulders for the rest of the journey. The wood which composed the +light framework of the cart being now disposable as fuel, we were +glad to make use of it in cooking a few ptarmigan, which afforded +us another sumptuous meal. It is not perhaps, easy for those who +have never experienced it, to imagine how great a luxury anything +warm in this way becomes, after living entirely upon cold +provisions for some time in this rigid climate. This change was +occasionally the more pleasant to us, from the circumstance of the +preserved meats, on which we principally lived, being generally at +this time hard frozen when taken out of the canisters. + +Having finished our arrangements with respect to the baggage, +which made it necessary that each of the men should carry between +sixty and seventy pounds, and the officers from forty to fifty, we +struck the tents at half past two on the morning of the 12th, and +proceeded along the eastern shore of the cove, towards a point +which forms the entrance on that side. + +We arrived at the point at five o'clock, and as we could now +perceive that the lake or gulf extended a considerable distance to +the eastward as well as to the westward, and that it would require +a long time to go round in the former direction, I determined to +cross it on the ice; and as the distance to the opposite shore +seemed too great for one journey, the snow being soft upon the +ice, first to visit the island, and, having rested there, to +proceed to the southward. Having walked five miles in a S.S.W. +direction, we landed at seven A.M., near the southeast part of the +island. The wind was fresh from the westward, and the tents were +pitched near the beach, under the lee of the high part of the +island. + +We rested till six P.M., and then set off across the ice for a +point to the E.S.E. The snow had now become so soft after the heat +of the day, that, loaded as we were, we often sunk nearly up to +the knees, which made travelling very laborious, and we were, +therefore, not sorry to get on shore by half past eight, having +walked, by our account, three miles and a half. + +The spot on which we encamped appeared so favourable for obtaining +specimens of the different animals which frequent this island, +that I determined to remain here one day for the purpose of +sporting and examining its natural productions. + +The sportsmen went out early in the morning, and soon after met +with a musk-ox feeding on a spot of luxuriant pasture-ground, +covered with the dung of these animals as well as of deer. They +fired at him from a considerable distance without wounding him, +and he set off at a very quick pace over the hills. The musk-ox +has the appearance of a very ill-proportioned little animal, its +hair being so long as to make its feet appear only two or three +inches in length; they seem, indeed, to be treading upon it at +every step, and the individual in question actually did so in some +instances, as the hair was found in several of the foot-tracks. +When disturbed and hunted, they frequently tore up the ground with +their horns, and turned round occasionally to look at their +pursuers, but they never attempted to attack any of them. Our +gentlemen also met with a herd of twelve deer, three only of which +had horns, and they were much the largest of the herd, and +constantly drove the others away when they attempted to stop. The +birds seen by our people were many brent-geese and ptarmigans, +several golden plovers, one or two "boatswains," and abundance of +snow-buntings. One or two mice were caught; like several others we +had seen, these were turning brown about the belly and head, and +the back was of a dark gray colour. In every part of the island +over which we travelled, the holes and tracks of these little +animals were occasionally seen; one of them, which Sergeant Martin +ran after, finding no hole near and that he could not escape, set +himself against a stone, as if endeavouring to defend himself, and +bit the sergeant's finger when he took hold of him. + +On a point of land at the distance of three quarters of a mile to +the W.b.S. of the tents, and within a hundred yards of the sea, +the remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered; they consisted +of rude circles, about six feet in diameter, constructed +irregularly of stones of all sizes and shapes, and raised to the +height of two feet from the ground: they were paved with large +slabs of white schistose sandstone, which is here abundant; the +moss had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the growth of +three or four years. In each of the huts, on one side, was a small +separate compartment forming a recess, projecting outward, which +had probably been their store-room; and at a few feet from one of +the huts was a smaller circle of stones, which had composed the +fireplace, the mark of fire being still perceptible upon them. + +The day was fine and clear, with a moderate wind from the westward +till four P.M., when it died away, and was shortly after succeeded +by a breeze from the southward, with a fall of snow. We now +travelled due south, with the intention of getting sight of the +Table Hills, and returning by that route to the ships, as there +appeared to be nothing more within our reach of sufficient +interest to detain us any longer from them. At eight P.M., finding +that the people's clothes were becoming wet through by the sleet +which fell, we halted and pitched the tents. + +Early on the morning of the 14th the wind veered to the westward, +and the weather became gradually more clear; we therefore continued +our journey to the southward, and came in sight of the Table Hills +bearing S.E. of us, and at eight A.M. pitched the tents on some dry +ground on the bank of a ravine. We moved on towards the Table Hills +at five P.M., and crossed several ravines without much water in +them, running generally to the northeastward. We halted between the +Table Hills at ten o'clock, having travelled eight miles over very +swampy ground, and with the snow up to our knees in some of the +hollows. + +As soon as the observations were completed, we set off for Winter +Harbour, and having passed over much rich and wet ground, +abounding with sorrel, which now began to put forth its leaves +with more vigour, arrived on board at seven P.M., having been met, +and welcomed most heartily, by almost every officer and man +belonging to the ships; and it was no small satisfaction to me to +hear it remarked, that the whole of our travelling party appeared +in more robust health than when we left them. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +I had the happiness to find, on my return, that the officers and +men in both ships continued to enjoy the same good health as +before, with the exception of Scott, who was still the only man in +the Hecla's sick-list, and whose complaint seemed such as to +baffle every attempt that had been made to produce an amendment. A +constant disposition to fainting and a languid sort of despondency +had been, for some time past, the only symptoms which had induced +Mr. Edwards to continue the antiscorbutic treatment; and this it +was sometimes absolutely necessary to discontinue for a day or two +together, on account of the weak state of his bowels. During my +absence he had been much worse than before, notwithstanding the +greatest care and attention paid to him; but he was now once more +better. He had lived almost entirely on the ptarmigan and ducks, +of which a sufficient quantity had been procured to serve the sick +and convalescent in both ships abundantly, and none had at this +time been issued to any officer or man in the expedition. + +The equipment of the ships had gone on satisfactorily during my +absence, the Griper being nearly ready for sea, the Hecla not +quite so forward, on account of the heavy work with the ballast, +of which sixty-five tons had been brought on board, to supply the +deficiency of weight in her holds. The survey of the provisions, +fuel, and other stores was completed, and the quantity and +condition of them, with the exception of the lemon-juice and +vinegar before mentioned, were found to be satisfactory. With +respect to vermin, I may here mention, that not a mouse, or rat, +or maggot of any kind ever appeared on board, to my knowledge, +during this voyage. + +A very perceptible change had taken place in the ice of the +harbour on its upper surface, it being covered with innumerable +pools of water, chiefly brackish, except close in-shore, where the +tides had lifted the ice considerably above the level of the sea. + +Having observed that the sorrel was now so far advanced in foliage +as to be easily gathered in sufficient quantity for eating, I gave +orders that two afternoons in each week should be occupied by all +hands in collecting the leaves of this plant; each man being +required to bring in, for the present, one ounce, to be served in +lieu of lemon-juice, pickles, and dried herbs, which had been +hitherto issued. The growth of the sorrel was from this time so +quick, and the quantity of it so great on every part of the ground +about the harbour, that we shortly after sent the men out every +afternoon for an hour or two; in which time, besides the advantage +of a healthy walk, they could, without difficulty, pick nearly a +pound each of this valuable antiscorbutic, of which they were all +extremely fond. Of the good effects produced upon our health by +the unlimited use of fresh vegetable substances, thus bountifully +supplied by the hand of Nature, even where least to be expected, +little doubt can be entertained, as it is well known to be a +never-failing specific for scorbutic affections, to which all +persons deprived of it for a length of time are probably more or +less predisposed. + +By the 20th of June, the land in the immediate neighbourhood of +the ships, and especially in low and sheltered situations, was +much covered with the handsome purple flower of the _saxifraga +oppositifolia_, which was at this time in great perfection, and +gave something like cheerfulness and animation to a scene hitherto +indescribably dreary in its appearance. + +The suddenness with which the changes take place during the short +season which may be called summer in this climate, must appear +very striking when it is remembered that, for a part of the first +week in June, we were under the necessity of thawing artificially +the snow which we made use of for water during the early part of +our journey to the northward; that, during the second week, the +ground was in most parts so wet and swampy that we could with +difficulty travel; and that, had we not returned before the end of +the third week, we should probably have been prevented doing so +for some time, by the impossibility of crossing the ravines +without great danger of being carried away by the torrents, an +accident that happened to our hunting parties on one or two +occasions in endeavouring to return with their game to the ships. + +On the 22d, at four P.M., a thermometer, in the shade on board the +Hecla, stood at 51°, being the highest temperature we had yet +registered this season. + +On the 24th we had frequent showers of snow, which occur in this +climate more or less at all times of the year; at this season, +however, when the earth is warm, it seldom or never lies on the +ground for a whole day together. + +Lieutenant Beechey, on his return from a hunting excursion at +midnight on the 26th, reported that the ice along shore in that +direction appeared in a more forward state of dissolution than +near Winter Harbour, there being almost water enough in some +places to allow a boat to pass, with several large cracks in the +ice extending from the land some distance to seaward. The deep had +now become much more wild near the tents, and it was therefore +necessary to shift the ground a little. Lieutenant Beechey +succeeded in killing one of these animals, by lying down quietly, +and imitating the voice of a fawn, when the deer immediately came +up to him within gunshot. The horns of the deer killed at this +season, as Mr. Fisher remarks, were "covered with a soft skin +having a downy pile or hair upon it; the horns themselves were +soft, and at the tips flexible and easily broken." The foxes, of +which they saw several, "had a black spot or patch on each side of +the hind-quarters or hams." + +On the 29th, one of the men, in returning on board from the daily +occupation of gathering sorrel, found in a hole upon the ice a +small fish, which appeared to be of the whiting species; and, on +going to examine the place where it was picked up, Mr. Edwards and +myself found two others exactly similar. As there was as yet no +communication between the sea and the upper surface of the ice +sufficiently large to admit these fish, it became a matter of +question in what manner they had got into the situation in which +we found them. It appeared most likely that they were frozen on +the surface of the water at the beginning of winter, when the +frost first commenced, and perhaps, therefore, had been floating +there dead. We remarked that, whenever any hard substance is laid +upon the ice in small quantities, it soon makes a deep hole for +itself, by the heat it absorbs and radiates, by which the ice +around it is melted. There were at this time upon the ice +innumerable holes of this kind, some forming small, and others +large pools of water; and in every one of these, without +exception, some extraneous substance, such as seaweed, sand, and +not unfrequently a number of small putrid shrimps were found. In +one of these holes the fish alluded to were found. It was curious +to see how directly contrary was the effect produced upon the ice +by a quantity of straw which was put out upon it in the early part +of May, and which, by preventing the access of warmth, had now +become raised above the general surface more than two feet; +affording a strong practical example of the principle on which +straw is made use of in ice-houses, and, what was at that time of +more importance to us, a proof, how much the upper surface of the +ice had been insensibly wasted by dissolution. + +Lieutenant Hoppner returned on the evening of the 29th from his +hunting excursion to the southwest, bringing with him some game, +and, what was to us much more acceptable, the welcome information +that the ice had been observed in motion in the offing on the 22d. +This circumstance was first observed by Messrs. Skene and Fife, +who were of Lieutenant Hoppner's party, and who were awakened by a +loud grinding noise, which, as they had soon the satisfaction to +find, was occasioned by the heavy field-ice setting rapidly to the +eastward, at the distance of five miles from the land, and +apparently at the rate of a mile an hour. The wind was at this +time moderate, but on the preceding day it had blown a fresh +northerly gale. + +For some days past Scott had been gradually growing worse, and on +the evening of the 29th he was so far exhausted that Mr. Edwards +did not expect him to survive through the night. At two A.M. on +the 30th I was informed by that gentleman that Scott was dying; +and, before I could get my clothes on, he had breathed his last, +without any apparent pain. + +On Sunday, the 2d of July, after divine service had been +performed, the body of the deceased was committed to the earth, on +a level piece of ground about a hundred yards from the beach; with +every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and the circumstances +of our situation would permit. The ensigns and pendants were +lowered half-mast during the procession, and the remains of our +unfortunate shipmate were attended to the grave by every officer +and man in both ships. A neat tombstone was afterward placed at +the head of the grave by Mr. Fisher, who carved upon it the name +of the deceased, with the other usual information. + +The dissolution of the ice of the harbour went on so rapidly in +the early part of July, that we were greatly surprised, on the +6th, in finding that, in several of the pools of water on its +upper surface, holes were washed quite through to the sea beneath. +On examining several of these, we found that the average thickness +of the ice in the upper part of the harbour, where the ships were +lying, did not exceed two feet, which was much less than we had +any idea of. Towards the mouth of the harbour, however, where the +water was deeper, no such holes made their appearance for some +days after this. It must here be remarked, that in all cases we +found the ice to be first thawed and broken up in the shoalest +water, in consequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with +which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the sea, +absorbed and radiated the heat of the sun's rays; and as it is in +such situations that water generally freezes the first, this +circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the provision of +nature for maintaining such a balance in the quantity of ice +annually formed and dissolved, as shall prevent any undue or +extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions +of the earth. + +On unhanging the rudders, and hauling them up on the ice for +examination, we found them a good deal shaken and grazed by the +blows they had received during the time the ships were beset at +the entrance of Davis's Strait. We found, also, that the +rudder-cases in both ships had been fitted too small, occasioning +considerable difficulty in getting the rudders down when working, +a circumstance by no means disadvantageous (perhaps, indeed, +rather the contrary) on ordinary service at sea, but which should +be carefully avoided in ships intended for the navigation among +ice, as it is frequently necessary to unship the rudder at a short +notice, in order to preserve it from injury, as our future +experience was soon to teach us. This fault was, however, soon +remedied, and the rudders again hung in readiness for sea. + +On the 14th a boat passed, for the first time, between the ships +and the shore, in consequence of the junction of a number of the +pools and holes in the ice; and on the following day the same kind +of communication was practicable between the ships. It now became +necessary, therefore, to provide against the possibility of the +ships being forced on shore by the total disruption of the ice +between them and the beach, and the pressure of that without, by +letting go a bower-anchor underfoot, which was accordingly done as +soon as there was a hole in the ice under the bows of each +sufficiently large to allow the anchors to pass through. We had +now been quite ready for sea for some days; and a regular and +anxious look-out was kept from the crow's-nest for any alteration +in the state of the ice which might favour our departure from +Winter Harbour, in which it now became more than probable that we +were destined to be detained thus inactively for a part of each +month in the whole year, as we had readied it in the latter part +of September, and were likely to be prevented leaving it till +after the commencement of August. + +From six A.M. till six P.M. on the 17th, the thermometer stood +generally from 55° to 60°; the latter temperature being the +highest which appears in the Hecla's Meteorological Journal during +this summer. It will readily be conceived how pleasant such a +temperature must have been to our feelings after the severe winter +which immediately preceded it. The month of July is, indeed, the +only one which can be called at all comfortable in the climate of +Melville Island. + +On the 20th, there being a strong breeze from the N.N.E., with fog +and rain, all favourable to the dispersion of the ice, that part +of it which was immediately around the Hecla, and from which she +had been artificially detached so long before, at length separated +into pieces and floated away, carrying with it the collection of +ashes and other rubbish which had been accumulating for the last +ten months: so that the ship was now once more fairly riding at +anchor, but with the ice still occupying the whole of the centre +of the harbour, and within a few yards of her bows: the Griper had +been set free in a similar manner a few days before. But it was +only in that part of the harbour where the ships were lying that +the ice had yet separated in this manner at so great a distance +from the shore; a circumstance probably occasioned by the greater +radiation of heat from the ships, and from the materials of +various kinds which we had occasion to deposite upon the ice +during the time of our equipment. + +Lieutenant Liddon accompanied me in a boat down the west shore of +the harbour to the southern point of the entrance, in order to +sound along the edge of the ice, where we found from seven to +fifteen feet water; the ice about the entrance appeared still very +solid and compact, and not a single hole was at this time noticed +through any of the pools upon its surface except one, which was +made by a seal, and which discovered the thickness of the ice to +be there between two and three feet. + +There was a fresh breeze from the northeastward, with fine clear +weather, on the 22d, which made the Hecla swing round into twenty +feet water astern; and the ice, being now moveable in the harbour, +came home towards the shore with this wind, but not so much as to +put any considerable strain on the cable of either ship; and the +holding-ground being excellent, there was nothing to apprehend for +their security. + +A fresh gale, which blew from the northward on the morning of the +23d, caused a great alteration in the appearance of the ice near +the ships, but none whatever in that in the offing or at the mouth +of the harbour, except that the shores were there more encumbered +than before, owing to the quantity of pieces which were separated +and driven down from the northward, so that our small boat could +not succeed in getting along the shore. + +On the 24th the sails were bent, in readiness for starting at a +moment's notice, though it must be confessed that the motive for +doing so was to make some show of moving rather than any +expectation which I dared to entertain of soon escaping from our +long and tedious confinement; for it was impossible to conceal +from the men the painful fact that, in eight or nine weeks from +this period, the navigable season must unavoidably come to a +conclusion. + +I went away in a boat early on the morning of the 25th, in order +to sound the harbour in those parts where the ice would admit the +boat, with a view to take advantage of the first favourable change +which might present itself. The wind having come round to the +southward in the afternoon, caused the separation of a large +portion of ice on the northern side of that which now occupied the +harbour, and the detached pieces drifting down towards us, +rendered it necessary to be on our guard, lest the ships should be +forced from their anchorage. On this account, as well as from an +anxious and impatient desire to make a move, however trifling, +from a spot in which we had now unwillingly, but unavoidably, +passed nearly ten months, and of which we had long been heartily +tired, I directed lines to be run out for the purpose of warping +the ships along the ice in the centre of the harbour, and at half +past two P.M. the anchors were weighed. As soon as a strain was +put upon the lines, however, we found that the ice to which they +were attached came home upon us, instead of the ships being drawn +out to the southward; and we were therefore obliged to have +recourse to the kedge-anchors, which we could scarcely find room +to drop on account of the closeness of the ice. Having warped a +little way out from the shore, into five fathoms and a half, it +was found impossible to proceed any farther without a change of +wind, and the anchors were therefore dropped till such a change +should take place. In the course of the evening all the loose ice +drifted past us to the northward, loading that shore of the +harbour with innumerable fragments of it, and leaving a +considerable space of clear water along shore to the southward. + +On the morning of the 26th it was nearly calm, with continued rain +and thick weather; and there being now a space of clear water for +nearly three quarters of a mile to the southward of us, we took +advantage of a breeze which sprung up from the northward to weigh, +at nine A.M., and run down as far as the ice would permit, and +then dropped our anchors in the best berths we could select, close +to the edge of it, with the intention of advancing step by step, +as it continued to separate by piecemeal. The ice across the +entrance of the harbour as far as this spot, and the whole of that +in the offing, of which we had here a commanding view from the +Hecla's crow's-nest, was still quite continuous and unbroken, with +the same appearance of solidity as it had during the middle of +winter, except that the pools of water were numerous upon its +surface. + +The wind being from the S.S.W. during the night of the 30th, +served to close the lane of water which had appeared in the offing +the preceding day, which we considered a favourable circumstance, +as showing that the external mass of ice was in motion. In the +course of the day, the wind shifting to the W.N.W., we once more +discovered a small opening between the old and young floes, and at +eleven P.M., the whole body of the ice in the harbour was +perceived to be moving slowly out to the southeastward, breaking +away, for the first time, at the points which form the entrance of +the harbour. This sudden and unexpected change rendering it +probable that we should at length be released, I sent to Captain +Sabine, who had been desirous of continuing his observations on +the pendulum to the last moment, to request that he would have the +clocks ready for embarcation at an early hour in the morning. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113° 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +The wind still blowing fresh from the northward and westward, the +ice continued to drift out slowly from the harbour, till, at eight +A.M., August 1st, it had left the whole space between the ships +and Cape Hearne completely clear, and at eleven o'clock there +appeared to be water round the hummocks of ice which lie aground +off that point. In the mean time, our boats were employed in +embarking the clocks, tents, and observatory, while I sounded the +entrance of the harbour in order to complete the survey, which no +opportunity had offered of doing before this time. At one P.M., +having got everything on board, and the ice appearing to be still +leaving the shore, we weighed, and ran out of Winter Harbour, in +which we had actually, as had been predicted, passed ten whole +months, and a part of the two remaining ones, September and +August. + +In running along shore towards Cape Hearne, generally at the +distance of half a mile from the land, we had from ten to sixteen +fathoms' water, and rounded the hummocks off the point in six and +a half fathoms by three P.M. As we opened the point, it was +pleasing to see that the coast to the westward of it was more +clear of ice (excepting the loose pieces which lay scattered about +in every direction, but which would not very materially have +impeded the navigation with a fair wind) than it had been when we +first arrived off it, a month later in the foregoing year; the +main ice having been blown off by the late westerly and +northwesterly winds to the distance of four or five miles from the +shore, which, from all we have seen on this part of the coast, +appears to be its utmost limit. The navigable channel, with a +beating wind between the ice and the land, was here from one to +two, or two miles and a half in width; and this seemed, from the +masthead, to continue as far as the eye could reach along shore to +the westward. + +We found the wind much more westerly after we rounded the point, +which made our progress slow and tedious; the more so, as we had +every minute to luff for one piece of ice and to bear up for +another, by which much ground was unavoidably lost. + +After a very few tacks, we had the mortification to perceive +that the Griper sailed and worked much worse than before, +notwithstanding every endeavour which Lieutenant Liddon had been +anxiously making, during her re-equipment, to improve those +qualities in which she had been found deficient. She missed stays +several times in the course of the evening, with smooth water +and a fine working breeze, and by midnight the Hecla had gained +eight miles to windward of her, which obliged me to heave to, +notwithstanding the increased width of the navigable channel, the +weather having become hazy, so as to endanger our parting company. + +Soon after noon on the 2d, a breeze sprung up from the S.S.W., +which, being rather upon the shore, made it likely that the ice +would soon begin to close it; we therefore began to look out for a +situation where the ships might be secured in-shore, behind some +of the heavy grounded ice which had so often before afforded us +shelter under similar circumstances. At one o'clock we perceived +that a heavy floe had already closed completely in with the land, +at a point a little to the westward of us, preventing all hope of +farther progress for the present in that direction. A boat was +therefore sent to examine the ice in-shore, and a favourable place +having been found for our purpose, the ships were hauled in and +secured there, the Griper's bow resting on the beach, in order to +allow the Hecla to lie in security without her. This place was so +completely sheltered from the access of the main body of the ice, +that I began to think seriously of taking advantage of this +situation to remove the Griper's crew on board the Hecla, in order +to prosecute the voyage in the latter vessel singly, and had +consulted the officers upon the subject. The circumstances, +however, which subsequently occurred rendering such a measure +inexpedient, because no longer necessary to the accomplishment of +the object in view, by which alone it could be justified, I was +induced to give it up, adopting the best means in our power to +remedy the evil in question. + +Shortly after our anchoring the Griper's people heard the growling +of a bear among the ice near them, but the animal did not appear; +and this was the only instance of our meeting with a bear during +our stay at Melville Island, except that which followed one of our +men to the ships soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour. Both +crews were sent on shore to pick sorrel, which was here not less +abundant than at our old quarters, but it was now almost too old +to be palatable, having nearly lost its acidity and juice. + +At one A.M. on the 4th, the loose ice was observed to be drifting +in upon us, the wind having veered to the eastward of north; and +soon after a floe, of not less than five miles in length and a +mile and a half across, was found to be approaching the shore at a +quick rate. The ships were immediately hauled as near the shore as +possible, and preparation made for unshipping the rudders, if +necessary. The floe was brought up, however, by the masses of ice +aground outside of us, with which it successively came in contact, +and the ships remained in perfect security; the floe, as usual +after the first violence is over, moved off again to a little +distance from the shore. + +At noon the heavy floe at the point near us began to quit the +land, and at half past one P.M., there being a narrow passage +between them, the breadth of which the breeze was constantly +increasing, we cast off and stretched to the westward. The channel +which opened to us as we proceeded varied in its general breadth +from one to two miles; in some places it was not more than half a +mile. The wind was variable and squally, but we made great +progress, along the land to the S.W.b.W., and the Griper, by +keeping up tolerably with the Hecla, in some measure redeemed her +character with us. Having arrived off Cape Providence at eleven +P.M., the wind became light and baffling, so that we had just got +far enough to see that there was a free and open channel beyond +the westernmost point visible of Melville Island, when our +progress was almost entirely stopped for want of a breeze to +enable us to take advantage of it. The anxiety which such a +detention occasions in a sea where, without any apparent cause, +the ice frequently closes the shore in the most sudden manner, can +perhaps only be conceived by those who have experienced it. We +remarked, in sailing near the ice this evening, while the wind was +blowing a fresh breeze off the land, and therefore directly +towards the ice, that it remained constantly calm within three or +four hundred yards of the latter; this effect I do not remember to +have observed before upon the windward side of any collection of +ice, though it invariably happens, in a remarkable degree, to +leeward of it. I may here mention, as a striking proof of the +accuracy with which astronomical bearings of objects may be taken +for marine surveys, that the relative bearing of Capes Providence +and Hay, as obtained this evening when the two headlands were +opening, differed only one minute from that entered in the +surveying-book, and found in the same manner the preceding year. + +At one P.M. on the 5th, the weather continuing quite calm, and +being desirous of examining the ice in-shore, that we might be +ready for the floes closing upon us, I left the ship, accompanied +by Captain Sabine and Mr. Edwards, and landed near one of the +numerous deep and broad ravines with which the whole of this part +of the island is indented. We were ascending the hill, which was +found by trigonometrical measurement to be eight hundred and +forty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and on which we found +no mineral production but sandstone and clay iron-stone, when a +breeze sprung up from the eastward, bringing up the Griper, which +had been left several miles astern. We only stopped, therefore, to +obtain observations for the longitude and the variation of the +magnetic needle; the former of which was 112° 53' 32", and the +latter 110° 56' 11" easterly, and then immediately returned on +board and made all sail to the westward. After running for two +hours without obstruction, we were once more mortified in +perceiving that the ice, in very extensive and unusually heavy +floes, closed in with the land a little to the westward of Cape +Hay, and our channel of clear water between the ice and the land +gradually diminished in breadth, till at length it became +necessary to take in the studding sails, and to haul to the wind +to look about us. I immediately left the ship, and went in a boat +to examine the grounded ice off a small point of land, such as +always occurs on this coast at the outlet of each ravine. I found +that this point offered the only possible shelter which could be +obtained in case of the ice coming in; and I therefore determined +to take the Hecla in-shore immediately, and to pick out the best +berth which circumstances would admit. As I was returning on board +with this intention, I found that the ice was already rapidly +approaching the shore; no time was to be lost, therefore, in +getting the Hecla to her intended station, which was effected by +half past eight P.M., being in nine to seven fathoms water, at the +distance of twenty yards from the beach, which was lined all round +the point with very heavy masses of ice that had been forced by +some tremendous pressure into the ground. Our situation was a +dangerous one, having no shelter from ice coming from the +westward, the whole of which, being distant from us less than half +a mile, was composed of floes infinitely more heavy than any we +had elsewhere met with during the voyage. The Griper was three or +four miles astern of us at the time when the ice began to close, +and I therefore directed Lieutenant Liddon, by signal, to secure +his ship in the best manner he could, without attempting to join +the Hecla; he accordingly made her fast at eleven P.M., near a +point like that at which we were lying, and two or three miles to +the eastward. + +On the whole of this steep coast, wherever we approached the +shore, we found a thick stratum of blue and solid ice, firmly +imbedded in the beach, at the depth of from six to ten feet under +the surface of the water. This ice has probably been the lower +part of heavy masses forced aground by the pressure of the floes +from without, and still adhering to the viscous mud of which the +beach is composed, after the upper part has, in course of time, +dissolved. From the tops of the hills in this part of Melville +Island a continuous line of this submarine ice could be distinctly +traced for miles along the coast. + +In running along the shore this evening we had noticed near the +sea what at a distance had every appearance of a high wall +artificially built, which was the resort of numerous birds. +Captain Sabine being desirous to examine it, as well as to procure +some specimens of the birds, set out, as soon as we anchored, for +that purpose. The wall proved to be composed of sandstone in +horizontal strata, from twenty to thirty feet in height, which had +been left standing, so as to exhibit its present artificial +appearance, by the decomposition of the rock and earth about it. +Large flocks of glaucous gulls had chosen this as a secure retreat +from the foxes, and every other enemy but man; and when our people +first went into the ravine in which it stands, they were so fierce +in defence of their young that it was scarcely safe to approach +them till a few shots had been fired. + +On the morning of the 7th a black whale came up close to the +Hecla, being the first we had seen since the 22d of August the +preceding year, about the longitude of 91¾° W.; it therefore +acquired among us the distinctive appellation of _the_ whale. +Since leaving Winter Harbour we had also, on two or three +occasions, seen a solitary seal. The wind continued fresh from the +east and E.N.E. in the morning, and the loose ice came close in +upon us, but the main body remained stationary at the distance of +nearly half a mile. + +In the afternoon a man from each mess was sent on shore to pick +sorrel, which was here remarkably fine and large, as well as more +acid than any we had lately met with. The shelter from the +northerly winds afforded by the high land on this part of the +coast, together with its southern aspect, renders the vegetation +here immediately next the sea much more luxuriant than in most +parts of Melville Island which we visited, and a considerable +addition was made to our collection of plants. + +The easterly breeze died away in the course of the day, and at +three P.M. was succeeded by a light air from the opposite quarter; +and as this freshened up a little, the loose ice began to drift +into our bight, and that on the eastern side of the point to drive +off. It became expedient, therefore, immediately to shift the ship +round the point, where she was made fast in four fathoms abaft and +seventeen feet forward, close alongside the usual ledge of +submarine ice, which touched her about seven feet under water, and +which, having few of the heavy masses aground upon it, would +probably have allowed her to be pushed over it had a heavy +pressure occurred from without. It was the more necessary to moor +the ship in some such situation, as we found from six to seven +fathoms water by dropping the hand-lead down close to her bow and +quarter on the outer side. + +Several heavy pieces of floes drove close past us, not less than +ten or fifteen feet in thickness, but they were fortunately +stopped by a point of land without coming in upon us. At eleven +o'clock, however, a mass of this kind, being about half an acre in +extent, drove in, and gave the ship a considerable "nip" between +it and the land ice, and then grazed past her to the westward. I +now directed the rudder to be unhung, and the ship to be swung +with her head to the eastward, so that the bow, being the +strongest part, might receive the first and heaviest pressure. + +The ice did not disturb us again till five A.M. on the 8th, when +another floe-piece came in and gave the ship a heavy rub, and then +went past, after which it continued slack about us for several +hours. Everything was so quiet at nine o'clock as to induce me to +venture up the hill abreast of us, in order to have a view of the +newly-discovered land to the southwest, which, indeed, I had seen +indistinctly and much refracted from the Hecla's deck in the +morning. This land, which extends beyond the 117th degree of west +longitude, and is the most western yet discovered in the Polar Sea +to the northward of the American Continent, was honoured with the +name of BANKS'S LAND, out of respect to the late venerable and +worthy president of the Royal Society. + +On the morning of the 9th a musk-ox came down to graze on the +beach near the ships. A party was despatched in pursuit, and, +having hemmed him in under the hill, which was too steep for him +to ascend, succeeded in killing him. When first brought on board, +the inside of this animal, which was a male, smelled very strong +of musk, of which the whole of the meat also tasted more or less, +and especially the heart. It furnished us with four hundred and +twenty-one pounds of beef, which was served to the crews as usual, +in lieu of their salt provisions, and was very much relished by +us, notwithstanding the peculiarity of its flavour.[*] The meat +was remarkably fat, and, as it hung up in quarters, looked as fine +as any beef in an English market. A small seal, killed by the +Griper's people, was also eaten by them; and it was generally +allowed to be very tender and palatable, though not very sightly +in its appearance, being of a disagreeable red colour. + +[Footnote: Some pieces of this meat which we brought to England +were found to have acquired a much more disagreeable flavour than +when first killed, though they had not undergone putrefaction in +the slightest degree.] + +At ten P.M. the whole body of ice, which was then a quarter of a +mile from us, was found to be drifting in upon the land, and the +ship was warped back a little way to the westward, towards that +part of the shore which was most favourable for allowing her to be +forced up on the beach. At eleven o'clock, the piece of a floe +which came near us in the afternoon, and which had since drifted +back a few hundred yards to the eastward, received the pressure of +the whole body of ice as it came in. It split across in various +directions with a considerable crash, and presently after we saw a +part, several hundred tons in weight, raised slowly and +majestically, as if by the application of a screw, and deposited +on another part of the floe from which it had broken, presenting +towards us the surface that had split, which was of a fine blue +colour, and very solid and transparent. The violence with which +the ice was coming in being thus broken, it remained quiet during +the night, which was calm, with a heavy fall of snow. + +The mass of ice which had been lifted up the preceding day being +drifted close to us on the morning of the 10th, I sent Lieutenant +Beechey to measure its thickness, which proved to be forty-two +feet; and as it was a piece of a regular floe, this measurement +may serve to give some idea of the general thickness of the ice in +this neighbourhood. + +I began to consider whether it would not be advisable, whenever +the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few miles of the +westing we had already made, and to run along the margin of the +floes, in order to endeavour to find an opening leading to the +southward, by taking advantage of which we might be enabled to +prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was +the more inclined to make this attempt, from its having long +become evident to us that the navigation of this part of the Polar +Sea is only to be performed by watching the occasional openings +between the ice and the shore; and that, therefore, a continuity +of land is essential, if not absolutely necessary, for this +purpose. Such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail +us, must necessarily be furnished by the northern coast of +America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found; and, as a large +portion of our short season had already been occupied in fruitless +attempts to penetrate farther to the westward in our present +parallel, under circumstances of more than ordinary risk to the +ships, I determined, whenever the ice should open sufficiently, to +put into execution the plan I had proposed. + +At seven P.M. we shipped the rudder and crossed the top-gallant +yards in readiness for moving; and then I ascended the hill and +walked a mile to the westward, along the brow of it, that not a +moment might be lost after the ice to the westward should give us +the slightest hope of making any progress by getting under way. +Although the holes had certainly increased in size and extent, +there was still not sufficient room even for one of our boats to +work to windward; and the impossibility of the ships' doing so was +rendered more apparent, on account of the current which, as I have +before had occasion to remark, is always produced in these seas +soon after the springing up of a breeze, and which was now running +to the eastward at the rate of at least one mile per hour. It was +evident that any attempt to get the ships to the westward must, +under circumstances so unfavourable, be attended with the certain +consequence of their being drifted the contrary way; and nothing +could therefore be done but still to watch, which we did most +anxiously, every alteration in the state of the ice. The wind, +however, decreasing as the night came on, served to diminish the +hopes with which we had flattered ourselves of being speedily +extricated from our present confined and dangerous situation. + +The weather was foggy for some hours in the morning of the 11th, +but cleared up in the afternoon as the sun acquired power. The +wind increased to a fresh gale from the eastward at nine P.M., +being the second time that it had done so while we had been lying +at this station; a circumstance which we were the more inclined to +notice, as the easterly winds had hitherto been more faint and +less frequent than those from the westward. In this respect, +therefore, we considered ourselves unfortunate, as experience had +already shown us that none but a westerly wind ever produced upon +this coast, or, indeed, on the southern coast of any of the North +Georgian Islands, the desired effect of clearing the shores of +ice. + +The gale continued strong during the night, and the ice quite +stationary. Not a pool of clear water could be seen in any +direction, except just under the lee of our point, where there was +a space large enough to contain half a dozen sail of ships, till +about noon, when the whole closed in upon us without any apparent +cause, except that the wind blew in irregular puffs about that +time, and at one P.M. it was alongside. The ship was placed in the +most advantageous manner for taking the beach, or, rather, the +shelf of submarine ice, and the rudder again unshipped and hung +across the stem. The ice which came in contact with the ship's +side consisted of very heavy loose pieces, drawing twelve or +fourteen feet water, which, however, we considered as good +"fenders," compared with the enormous fields which covered the sea +just without them. Everything remained quiet for the rest of the +day, without producing any pressure of consequence; the wind came +round to N.b.E. at night, but without moving the ice off the land. + +Early in the morning of the 13th I received by Mr. Griffiths a +message from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at eleven +o'clock on the preceding night, the ice had been setting slowly to +the westward, and had, at the same time, closed in upon the land +where the Griper was lying, by which means she was forced against +the submarine ice, and her stern lifted two feet out of the water. +This pressure, Lieutenant Liddon remarked, had given her a twist, +which made her crack a good deal, but apparently without suffering +any material injury in her hull, though the ice was still pressing +upon her when Mr. Griffiths came away. She had at first heeled +inward, but, on being lifted higher, fell over towards the deep +water. Under these circumstances Lieutenant Liddon had very +properly landed all the journals and other documents of +importance, and made every arrangement in his power for saving the +provisions and stores in case of shipwreck, which he had now every +reason to anticipate. Convinced as I was that no human art or +power could, in our present situation, prevent such a catastrophe +whenever the pressure of the ice became sufficient, I was more +than ever satisfied with the determination to which I had +previously come, of keeping the ships apart during the continuance +of these untoward circumstances, in order to increase the chance +of saving one of them from accidents of this nature. In the mean +time the ice remained so close about the Hecla, that the slightest +pressure producing in it a motion towards the shore must have +placed us in a situation similar to that of the Griper; and our +attention was therefore diverted to the more important object of +providing, by every means in our power, for the security of the +larger ship, as being the principal depôt of provisions and other +resources. + +At five P.M. Lieutenant Liddon acquainted me by letter that the +Griper had at length righted, the ice having slackened a little +around her, and that all the damage she appeared to have sustained +was in her rudder, which was badly split, and would require some +hours' labour to repair it whenever the ice should allow him to +get it on shore. + +Soon after midnight the ice pressed closer in upon the Hecla than +before, giving her a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, +but without appearing to strain her in the slightest degree. By +four P.M. the pressure had gradually decreased, and the ship had +only three or four inches heel; in an hour after she had perfectly +righted, and the ice remained quiet for the rest of the day. + +Every moment's additional detention now served to confirm me in +the opinion I had formed as to the expediency of trying, at all +risks, to penetrate to the southward whenever the ice would allow +us to move at all, rather than persevere any longer in the +attempts we had been lately making, with so little success, to +push on directly to the westward. I therefore gave Lieutenant +Liddon an order to run back a certain distance to the eastward +whenever he could do so, without waiting for the Hecla, should +that ship be still detained; and to look out for any opening in +the ice to the southward which might seem likely to favour the +object I had in view, waiting for me to join him should any such +opening occur. + +The breeze died away in the course of the night, just as the ice +was beginning to separate and to drift away from the shore; and, +being succeeded by a wind off the land, which is here very +unusual, Lieutenant Liddon was enabled to sail upon the Griper at +two A.M. on the 15th, in execution of the orders I had given him. +As I soon perceived, however, that she made little or no way, the +wind drawing more to the eastward on that part of the coast, and +as the clear water was increasing along the shore to the westward +much farther than we had yet seen it, I made the signal of recall +to the Griper, with the intention of making another attempt, which +the present favourable appearances seemed to justify, to push +forward without delay in the desired direction. At five A.M., +therefore, as soon as the snow had cleared away sufficiently to +allow the signal to be distinguished, we cast off and ran along +shore, the wind having by this time veered to the E.b.N., and +blowing in strong puffs out of the ravines as we passed them. We +sailed along, generally at the distance of a hundred or a hundred +and fifty yards from the beach, our soundings being from ten to +seventeen fathoms; and, after running a mile and a half in a +N.W.b.W. direction, once more found the ice offering an +impenetrable obstacle to our progress westward, at a small +projecting point of land just beyond us. We therefore hauled the +ship into a berth which we were at this moment fortunate in +finding abreast of us, and where we were enabled to place the +Hecla within a number of heavy masses of grounded ice, such as do +not often occur on this steep coast, which, compared with the +situation we had lately left, appeared a perfect harbour. In the +mean time, the wind had failed our consort when she was a mile and +a half short of this place; and Lieutenant Liddon, after +endeavouring in vain to warp up to us, was obliged, by the ice +suddenly closing upon him, to place her in-shore, in the first +situation he could find, which proved to be in very deep water, as +well as otherwise so insecure as not to admit a hope of saving the +ship should the ice continue to press upon her. + +Mr. Fisher found very good sport in our new station, having +returned in the evening, after a few hours' excursion, with nine +hares; the birds had, of late, almost entirely deserted us, a +flock or two of ptarmigan and snow-buntings, a few glaucous gulls, +a raven, and an owl, being all that had been met with for several +days. + +A fog, which had prevailed during the night, cleared away in the +morning of the 16th, and a very fine day succeeded, with a +moderate breeze from the westward. In order to have a clear and +distinct view of the state of the ice, after twenty-four hours' +wind from that quarter, Captain Sabine, Mr. Edwards, and myself, +walked about two miles to the westward, along the high part of the +land next the sea, from whence it appeared but too evident that no +passage in this direction was yet to be expected. The ice to the +west and southwest was as solid and compact, to all appearance, as +so much land; to which, indeed, the surface of so many fields, +from the kind of hill and dale I have before endeavoured to +describe, bore no imperfect resemblance. I have no doubt that, had +it been our object to circumnavigate Melville Island, or, on the +other hand, had the coast continued its westerly direction instead +of turning to the northward, we should still have contrived to +proceed a little occasionally, as opportunities offered, +notwithstanding the increased obstruction which here presented +itself; but, as neither of these was the case, there seemed little +or nothing to hope for from any farther attempts to prosecute the +main object of the voyage in this place. I determined, therefore, +no longer to delay the execution of my former intentions, and to +make trial, if possible, of a more southern latitude, in which I +might follow up the success that had hitherto attended our +exertions. + +The station at which the ships were now lying, and which is the +westernmost point to which the navigation of the Polar Sea to the +northward of the American Continent has yet been carried, is in +latitude 74° 26' 25", and longitude, by chronometer, 113° 46' +43.5". + +The place where the Hecla was now secured, being the only one of +the kind which could be found, was a little harbour, formed, as +usual, by the grounded ice, some of which was fixed to the bottom +in ten to twelve fathoms. One side of the entrance to this harbour +consisted of masses of floes, very regular in their shape, placed +quite horizontally, and broken off so exactly perpendicular as to +resemble a handsome, well-built wharf. On the opposite side, +however, the masses to which we looked for security were +themselves rather terrific objects, as they leaned over so much +towards the ship as to give the appearance of their being in the +act of falling upon her deck; and as a very trifling concussion +often produces the fall of much heavier masses of ice, when in +appearance very firmly fixed to the ground, I gave orders that no +guns should be fired near the ship during her continuance in this +situation. The Griper was of necessity made fast near the beach in +rather an exposed situation, and her rudder unshipped, in +readiness for the ice coming in; it remained quiet, however, +though quite close, during the day, the weather being calm and +fine. + +It was again nearly calm on the 19th, and the weather was foggy for +some hours in the morning. In the evening, having walked to Cape +Providence to see if there was any possibility of moving the ships, +I found the ice so close that a boat could not have passed beyond +the Cape; but a light air drifting the ice slowly to the eastward +at this time, gave me some hopes of soon being enabled to make our +escape from this tedious as well as vexatious confinement. At a +quarter past eight it was high water by the shore; about this time +the ice ceased driving to the eastward, and shortly after returned +in the opposite direction. + +At half past eleven P.M., some heavy pieces of the grounded ice, +to which our bow-hawser was secured, fell off into the water, +snapping the rope in two without injuring the ship. As, however, +every alteration of this kind must materially change the centre of +gravity of the whole mass, which already appeared in a tottering +state, I thought it prudent to move the Hecla out of her harbour +to the place where the Griper was lying, considering that a ship +might easily be forced on shore by the ice without suffering any +serious damage; but that one of those enormous masses falling upon +her deck must inevitably crush or sink her. + +The "young ice" had increased to the thickness of an inch and a +half on the morning of the 23d, and some snow which had fallen in +the night served to cement the whole more firmly together. On a +breeze springing up from the westward, however, it soon began to +acquire a motion to leeward, and at half an hour before noon had +slackened about the ships sufficiently to allow us to warp them +out, which was accordingly done, and all sail made upon them. The +wind having freshened up from the W.N.W., the ships' heads were +got the right way, and, by great attention to the sails, kept so +till they had got abreast of Cape Providence, after which they +were no longer manageable, the ice being more close than before. I +have before remarked that the loose ice in this neighbourhood was +heavy in proportion to the floes from which it had been broken; +and the impossibility of sailing among such ice, most of which +drew more water than the Hecla, and could not, therefore, be +turned by her weight, was this day rendered very apparent, the +ships having received by far the heaviest shocks which they +experienced during the voyage. They continued, however, to drive +till they were about three miles to the eastward of Cape +Providence, where the low land commences; when, finding that there +was not any appearance of open water to the eastward or southward, +and that we were now incurring the risk of being beset at sea, +without a chance of making any farther progress, we hauled in for +the largest piece of grounded ice we could see upon the beach, +which we reached at six P.M., having performed six miles of the +most difficult navigation I have ever known among ice. The Hecla +was made fast in from eighteen to twenty feet water close to the +beach, and the Griper in four fathoms, about half a mile to the +westward of us. + +The situation in which the ships were now placed, when viewed in +combination with the shortness of the remaining part of the +season, and the period to which our resources of every kind could +be extended, was such as to require a more than ordinary +consideration, in order to determine upon the measures most proper +to be pursued for the advancement of the public service, and the +security of the ships and people committed to my charge. Judging +from the close of the summer of 1819, it was reasonable to +consider the 7th of September as the limit beyond which the +navigation of this part of the Polar Sea could not be performed, +with tolerable safety to the ships or with any hope of farther +success. Impressed, however, with a strong sense of the efforts +which it became us to make in the prosecution of our enterprise, I +was induced to extend this limit to the 14th of September, before +which day, on the preceding year, the winter might fairly be said +to have set in. But even with this extension our prospect was not +very encouraging: the direct distance to Icy Cape was between +eight and nine hundred miles, while that which we had advanced +towards it this season fell short of sixty miles. + +By Mr. Hooper's report of the remains of provisions, it appeared +that, at the present reduced allowance (namely, two thirds of the +established proportion of the navy), they would last until the +30th of November, 1821; and that an immediate reduction, to half +allowance, which must, however, tend materially to impair the +health and vigour of the officers and men, would only extend our +resources to the 30th of April, 1822; it therefore became a matter +of evident and imperious necessity, that the ships should be +cleared from the ice before the close of the season of 1821, so as +to reach some station where supplies might be obtained by the end +of that, or early in the following year. + +By the same report, it appeared that the fuel with which we were +furnished could only be made to extend to a period of two years +and seven months, or to the end of November, 1821; and this only +by resorting to the unhealthy measure of both crews living on +board the Hecla during six of the ensuing winter months. + +The ships might be considered almost as effective as when the +expedition left England; the wear and tear having been trifling, +and the quantity of stores remaining on board being amply +sufficient, in all probability, for a much longer period than the +provisions and fuel. The health of the officers and men continued +also as good, or nearly so, as at the commencement of the voyage. +Considering, however, the serious loss we had sustained in the +lemon-juice, the only effectual antiscorbutic on which we could +depend during at least nine months of the year in these regions, +as well as the effects likely to result from crowding nearly one +hundred persons into the accommodation intended only for +fifty-eight, whereby the difficulty of keeping the inhabited parts +of the ship in a dry and wholesome state would have been so much +increased, there certainly seemed some reason to apprehend that a +second winter would not leave us in possession of the same +excellent health which we now happily enjoyed, while it is +possible that the difficulty and danger of either proceeding or +returning might have been increased. + +A herd of musk-oxen being seen at a little distance from the +ships, a party was despatched in pursuit; and Messrs. Fisher and +Bushnan were fortunate in killing a fine bull, which separated +from the rest of the herd, being too unwieldy to make such good +way as the others. He was, however, by no means caught by our +people in fair chase; for, though these animals run with a +hobbling sort of canter, that makes them appear as if every now +and then about to fall, yet the slowest of them can far outstrip a +man. In this herd were two calves, much whiter than the rest, the +older ones having only the white saddle. In the evening, Sergeant +Martin succeeded in killing another bull; these two animals +afforded a very welcome supply of fresh meat, the first giving us +three hundred and sixty-nine, and the other three hundred and +fifty-two pounds of beef, which was served in the same manner as +before.[*] + +[Footnote: The total quantity of game obtained for the use of the +expedition during our stay upon the shores of Melville Island, +being a period of nearly twelve months, was as follows: 3 musk +oxen, 24 deer, 68 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, 144 ptarmigans: +affording 3766 pounds of meat.] + +It was gratifying to me to find that the officers unanimously +agreed with me in opinion that any farther attempt to penetrate to +the westward in our present parallel would be altogether +fruitless, and attended with a considerable loss of time, which +might be more usefully employed. They also agreed with me in +thinking that the plan which I had adopted, of running back along +the edge of the ice to the eastward, in order to look out for an +opening that might lead us towards the American Continent, was in +every respect the most advisable; and that, in the event of +failing to find any such opening after a reasonable time spent in +search, it would be expedient to return to England rather than +risk the passing another winter in these seas, without the +prospect of attaining any adequate object; namely, that of being +able to start from an advanced station at the commencement of the +following season. + +At three P.M. we were abreast of Cape Hearne; and, as we opened +the bay of the Hecla and Griper, the wind, as usual on this part +of the coast, came directly out from the northward; but, as soon +as we had stretched over to Bounty Cape, of which we were abreast +at eight P.M., it drew once more along the land from the westward. +The distance between the ice and the land increased as we +proceeded, and at midnight the channel appeared to be four or five +miles wide, as far as the darkness of the night would allow of our +judging; for we could at this period scarcely see to read in the +cabin at ten o'clock. The snow which fell during the day was +observed, for the first time, to remain upon the land without +dissolving; thus affording a proof of the temperature of the +earth's surface having again fallen below that of freezing, and +giving notice of the near approach of another long and dreary +winter. + +At seven P.M., a fog coming on, we hauled up close to the edge of +the ice, both as a guide to us in sailing during the continuance +of the thick weather, and to avoid passing any opening that might +occur in it to the southward. We were, in the course of the +evening, within four or five miles of the same spot where we had +been on the same day and at the same hour the preceding year; and, +by a coincidence perhaps still more remarkable, we were here once +more reduced to the same necessity as before, of steering the +ships by one another for an hour or two; the Griper keeping the +Hecla ahead, and our quartermaster being directed to keep the +Griper right astern, for want of some better mode of knowing in +what direction we were running. The fog froze hard as it fell upon +the rigging, making it difficult to handle the ropes in working +the ship, and the night was rather dark for three or four hours. + +At a quarter past three on the morning of the 30th, we bore up to +the eastward, the wind continuing fresh directly down Barrow's +Strait, except just after passing Prince Leopold's Islands, where +it drew into Prince Regent's Inlet, and, as soon as we had passed +this, again assumed its former westerly direction; affording a +remarkable instance of the manner in which the wind is acted upon +by the particular position of the land, even at a considerable +distance from it. The islands were encumbered with ice to the +distance of four or five miles all found them, but the Strait was +generally as clear and navigable as any part of the Atlantic. + +Having now traced the ice the whole way from the longitude of 114° +to that of 90°, without discovering any opening to encourage a +hope of penetrating it to the southward, I could not entertain the +slightest doubt that there no longer remained a possibility of +effecting our object with the present resources of the expedition; +and that it was therefore my duty to return to England with the +account of our late proceedings, that no time might be lost in +following up the success with which we had been favoured, should +his majesty's government consider it expedient to do so. Having +informed the officers and men in both ships of my intentions, I +directed the full allowance of provisions to be in future issued, +with such a proportion of fuel as might contribute to their +comfort; a luxury which, on account of the necessity that existed +for the strictest economy in this article, it must be confessed, +we had not often enjoyed since we entered Sir James Lancaster's +Sound. We had been on two thirds allowance of bread between ten +and eleven months, and on the same reduced proportion of the other +species of provisions between three and four; and, although this +quantity is scarcely enough for working men for any length of +time, I believe the reduction of fuel was generally considered by +far the greater privation of the two. + +As it appeared to me that considerable service might be rendered +by a general survey of the western coast of Baffin's Bay, which, +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound southward, might one day become +an important station for our whalers, I determined to keep as +close to that shore during our passage down as the ice and the +wind would permit; and as the experience of the former voyage had +led us to suppose that this coast would be almost clear of ice +during the whole of September, I thought that this month could not +be better employed than in the examination of its numerous bays +and inlets. Such an examination appeared to me more desirable, +from the hope of finding some new outlet into the Polar Sea in a +lower latitude than that of Sir James Lancaster's Sound; a +discovery which would be of infinite importance towards the +accomplishment of the Northwest Passage. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 68¼°.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + +The wind continuing fresh from the northward on the morning of the +1st of September, we bore up and ran along the land, taking our +departure from the flagstaff in Possession Bay, bearing W.S.W. +five miles, at half past four A.M. + +The ice led us off very much to the eastward after leaving Pond's +Bay; and the weather became calm, with small snow towards +midnight. In this day's run, the compass-courses were occasionally +inserted in the logbook, being the first time that the magnetic +needle had been made use of on board the Hecla, for the purposes +of navigation, for more than twelve months. + +On the morning of the 3d we passed some of the highest icebergs I +have ever seen, one of them being not less than one hundred and +fifty to two hundred feet above the sea, judging from the height +of the Griper's masts when near it. + +The vegetation was tolerably luxuriant in some places upon the low +land which borders the sea, consisting principally of the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, saxifrage, and poppy, with a few roots of +scurvy-grass. There was still a great deal of snow remaining even +on the lower parts of the land, on which were numerous ponds of +water; on one of these, a pair of young red-throated divers, which +could not rise, were killed; and two flocks of geese, one of them +consisting of not less than sixty or seventy, were seen by Mr. +Hooper, who described them as being very tame, running along the +beach before our people, without rising, for a considerable +distance. Some glaucous gulls and plovers were killed, and we met +with several tracks of bears, deers, wolves, foxes, and mice. The +coxswain of the boat found upon the beach part of the bone of a +whale, which had been cut at one end by a sharp instrument like an +axe, with a quantity of chips lying about it, affording undoubted +proof of this part of the coast having been visited at no distant +period by Esquimaux; it is more than probable, indeed, that they +may inhabit the shores of this inlet, which time would not now +permit us to examine. More than sixty icebergs of very large +dimensions were in sight from the top of the hill, together with a +number of extensive floes to the northeast and southeast, at the +distance of four or five leagues from the land. + +While occupied in attending to the soundings, soon after noon, our +astonishment may readily be conceived on seeing from the masthead +a ship, and soon after two others, in the offing, which were soon +ascertained to be whalers, standing in towards the land. They +afterward bore up to the northward along the edge of the ice which +intervened between us, and we lost sight of them at night. It was +now evident that this coast, which had hitherto been considered by +the whalers as wholly inaccessible in so high a latitude, had +become a fishing station, like that on the opposite or Greenland +shore; and the circumstance of our meeting so few whales in Sir +James Lancaster's Sound this season was at once accounted for by +supposing, what, indeed, we afterward found to be the case, that +the fishing-ships had been there before us, and had, for a time, +scared them from that ground. + +It was so squally on the morning of the 5th that we could scarcely +carry our double-reefed topsails, while, as we afterward learned +from the fishing-ships, which were in sight at daylight, there was +scarcely a breath of wind at a few leagues' distance from the +land. We coasted this low shore, as we had done in the preceding +voyage, at the distance of two or three miles, having from +twenty-three to twenty-nine fathoms water. We here met with +another of our fishing-ships, which proved to be the Lee, of Hull, +Mr. Williamson, master; from whom we learned, among other events +of a public nature which were altogether new to us, the public +calamity which England had sustained in the death of our late +venerable and beloved sovereign, and also the death of his Royal +Highness the Duke of Kent. Mr. Williamson, among others, had +succeeded in getting across the ice to this coast as high as the +latitude of 73°, and had come down to this part in pursuit of the +fish. One or two of the ships had endeavoured to return home by +running down this coast, but had found the ice so close about the +latitude of 69½° as to induce most of the others to sail back to +the northward, in order to get back in the same way that they +came. Mr. Williamson also reported his having, a day or two +before, met with some Esquimaux in the inlet named the River Clyde +in 1818, which was just to the southward of us. Considering it a +matter of some interest to communicate with these people, who had, +probably, not been before visited by Europeans, and that it might, +at the same time, be useful to examine the inlet, I bore up, as +soon as I had sent our despatches and letters on board the Lee, +and stood in towards the rocky islet, called Agnes's Monument, +passing between it and the low point which forms the entrance to +the inlet on the northern side. + +At six in the evening of the 6th, being near the outermost of the +islands with which we afterward found this inlet to be studded, we +observed four canoes paddling towards the ships; they approached +with great confidence, and came alongside without the least +appearance of fear or suspicion. While paddling towards us, and, +indeed, before we could plainly perceive their canoes, they +continued to vociferate loudly; but nothing like a song, nor even +any articulate sound, which can be expressed by words, could be +distinguished. Their canoes were taken on board by their own +desire, plainly intimated by signs, and with their assistance, and +they at once came up the side without hesitation. These people +consisted of an old man, apparently much above sixty, and three +younger, from nineteen to thirty years of age. As soon as they +came on deck, their vociferations seemed to increase with their +astonishment, and, I may add, their pleasure; for the reception +they met with seemed to create no less joy than surprise. Whenever +they received a present or were shown anything which excited fresh +admiration, they expressed their delight by loud and repeated +ejaculations, which they sometimes continued till they were quite +hoarse and out of breath with the exertion. This noisy mode of +expressing their satisfaction was accompanied by a jumping, which +continued for a minute or more, according to the degree of the +passion which excited it, and the bodily powers of the person who +exercised it; the old man being rather too infirm, but still doing +his utmost to go through the performance. + +After some time passed on deck, during which a few skins and ivory +knives were bought from them, they were taken down into the cabin. +The younger ones received the proposal to descend somewhat +reluctantly, till they saw that their old companion was willing to +show them the example, and they then followed without fear. +Although we were much at a loss for an interpreter, we had no +great difficulty in making the old man understand, by showing him +an engraved portrait of an Esquimaux, that Lieutenant Beechey was +desirous of making a similar drawing of him. He was accordingly +placed on a stool near the fire, and sat for more than an hour +with very tolerable composure and steadiness, considering that a +barter for their clothes, spears, and whalebone was going on at +the same time near him. He was, indeed, kept quiet by the presents +which were given him from time to time; and when this failed, and +he became impatient to move, I endeavoured to remind him that we +wished him to keep his position, by placing my hands before me, +holding up my head and assuming a grave and demure look. We now +found that the old gentleman was a mimic, as well as a very +good-natured and obliging man; for, whenever I did this he always +imitated me in such a manner as to create considerable diversion +among his own people as well as ours, and then very quietly kept +his seat. While he was sitting for his picture, the other three +stood behind him, bartering their commodities with great honesty, +but in a manner which showed them to be no strangers to traffic. +If, for instance, a knife was offered for any article, they would +hesitate for a short time, till they saw we were determined to +give no higher price, and then at once consented to the exchange. +In this case, as well as when anything was presented to them, they +immediately licked it twice with their tongues, after which they +seemed to consider the bargain satisfactorily concluded. The +youngest of the party very modestly kept behind the others, and, +before he was observed to have done so, missed several presents, +which his less diffident, though not importunate companions had +received. As the night closed in they became desirous to depart, +and they left us before dark, highly delighted with their visit. +As I had purchased one of their canoes, a boat was sent to land +its late owner, as only one person can sit in each. Mr. Palmer +informed me, that, in going on shore, the canoes could beat our +boat very much in rowing whenever the Esquimaux chose to exert +themselves, but they kept close to her the whole way. During the +time that they were on board, we had observed in them a great +aptness for imitating certain of our words; and, while going on +shore, they took a particular liking to the expression of "Hurra, +give way!" which they heard Mr. Palmer use to the boat's crew, and +which they frequently imitated, to the great amusement of all +parties. + +Soon after we had landed on the 7th, the old Esquimaux and one of +his younger companions paddled over from the main land, and joined +us upon the island. They brought with them, as before, some pieces +of whalebone and sealskin dresses, which were soon disposed of, +great care being taken by them not to produce more than one +article at a time; returning to their canoes, which were at a +little distance from our boat, after the purchase of each of their +commodities, till their little stock was exhausted. Considering it +desirable to keep up among them the ideas of fair and honest +exchange, which they already seemed to possess in no ordinary +degree, I did not permit them to receive anything as presents till +all their commodities had been regularly bought. While we were +waiting to obtain the sun's meridian altitude, they amused +themselves in the most good-natured and cheerful manner with the +boat's crew; and Lieutenant Hoppner, who, with Mr. Beverly, had +joined us in the Griper's boat, took this opportunity of making a +drawing of the young man. It required, however, some show of +authority, as well as some occasional rewards, to keep him quietly +seated on the rock for a time sufficient for this purpose; the +inclination they have to jump about, when much pleased, rendering +it a penalty of no trifling nature for them to sit still for half +an hour together. To show their disposition to do us what little +service was in their power, he afterward employed himself in +sharpening the seamen's knives, which he did with great expertness +on any flat smooth stone, returning each, as soon as finished, to +its proper owner, and then making signs for another, which he +sharpened and returned in the same way, without any attempt, and +apparently without the smallest desire, to detain it. The old man +was extremely inquisitive, and directed his attention to those +things which appeared useful rather than to those which were +merely amusing. An instance of this occurred on my ordering a tin +canister of preserved meat to be opened for the boats' crews' +dinner. The old man was sitting on the rock, attentively watching +the operation, which was performed with an axe struck by a mallet, +when one of the men came up to us with a looking-glass. I held it +up to each of the Esquimaux, who had also seen one on the +preceding evening, and then gave it into each of their hands +successively. The younger one was quite in raptures, and literally +jumped for joy for nearly a quarter of an hour: but the old man, +having had one smile at his own queer face, immediately resumed +his former gravity, and, returning me the glass, directed his +whole attention to the opening of the canister, and, when this was +effected, begged very hard for the mallet which had performed so +useful an office, without expressing the least wish to partake of +the meat, even when he saw us eating it with good appetites. Being +prevailed on, however, to taste a little of it, with some biscuit, +they did not seem at all to relish it, but ate a small quantity, +from an evident desire not to offend us, and then deposited the +rest safely in their canoes. They could not be persuaded to taste +any rum after once smelling it, even when much diluted with water. +I do not know whether it be a circumstance worthy of notice, that +when a kaleidoscope or a telescope was given them to look into, +they immediately shut one eye; and one of them used the right, and +the other the left eye. + +In getting out of their canoes, as well as into them, great care +is required to preserve the balance of these frail and unsteady +coracles, and in this they generally assist each other. As we were +leaving the island, and they were about to follow us, we lay on +our oars to observe how they would manage this; and it was +gratifying to see that the young man launched the canoe of his +aged companion, and, having carefully steadied it alongside the +rock till he had safely embarked, carried his own down, and +contrived, though with some difficulty, to get into it without +assistance. They seem to take especial care, in launching their +canoes, not to rub them against the rocks, by placing one end +gently in the water, and holding the other up high, till it can be +deposited without risk of injury. As soon as we commenced rowing, +the Esquimaux began to vociferate their newly-acquired expression +of "Hurra, give way!" which they continued at intervals, +accompanied by the most good-humoured merriment, as we crossed +over to the main land. There being now a little sea, occasioned by +a weather tide, we found that our boats could easily beat their +canoes in rowing, notwithstanding their utmost endeavours to keep +up with us. + +The two Esquimaux tents which we were now going to visit were +situated just within a low point of land, forming the eastern side +of the entrance to a considerable branch of the inlet, extending +some distance to the northward. The situation is warm and +pleasant, having a southwesterly aspect, and being in every +respect well adapted for the convenient residence of these poor +people. We landed outside the point, and walked over to the tents, +sending our boats, accompanied by the two canoes, round the point +to meet us. As soon as we came in sight of the tents, every living +animal there, men, women, children, and dogs, were in motion; the +latter to the top of the hill out of our way, and the rest to meet +as with loud and continued shouting; the word _pilletay_ (give me) +being the only articulate sound we could distinguish amid the +general uproar. Besides the four men whom we had already seen, +there were four women, one of whom, being about the same age as +the old man, was probably his wife; the others were about thirty, +twenty-two, and eighteen years of age. The first two of these, +whom we supposed to be married to the two oldest of the young men, +had infants slung in a kind of bag at their backs, much in the +same way as gipsies are accustomed to carry their children. There +were also seven children, from twelve to three years of age, +besides the two infants in arms, or, rather, behind their mothers' +backs; and the woman of thirty was with child. + +We began, as before, by buying whatever they had to dispose of, +giving in exchange knives, axes, brass kettles, needles, and other +useful articles, and then added such presents as might be farther +serviceable to them. From the first moment of our arrival until we +left them, or, rather, till we had nothing left to give, the +females were particularly importunate with us, and "pilletay" +resounded from the whole troop, wherever we went; they were +extremely anxious to obtain our buttons, apparently more on +account of the ornament of the crown and anchor which they +observed upon them than from any value they set upon their use; +and several of these were cut off our jackets to please their +fancy. When I first endeavoured to bargain for a sledge, the +persons I addressed gave me distinctly to understand by signs that +it was not their property, and pointed towards the woman who owned +it; though my ignorance in this respect offered a good opportunity +of defrauding me, had they been so inclined, by receiving an +equivalent for that which did not belong to them: on the owner's +coming forward, the bargain was quickly concluded. The pikes which +I gave in exchange underwent the usual ceremony of licking, and +the sledge was carried to our boat with the most perfect +understanding on both sides. In another instance, an axe was +offered by some of the Griper's gentlemen as the price of a dog, +to which the woman who owned the animal consented. To show that we +placed full confidence in them, the axe was given to her before +the dog was caught, and she immediately went away with a kind of +halter or harness of thongs, which, they use for this purpose, and +honestly brought one of the finest among them, though nothing +would have been easier than to evade the performance of the +contract. The readiness, however, with which they generally parted +with their commodities, was by no means the effect of fear, nor +did it always depend on the value of the articles offered in +exchange; for having, as I thought, concluded a bargain for a +second canoe belonging to the old woman, I desired the men to hand +it down to the boat; but I soon perceived that I had misunderstood +her, for she clung fast to the canoe, and cried most piteously +till it was set down; I then offered a larger price than before, +but she could not be induced to part with it. + +The stature of these people, like that of Esquimaux in general, is +much below the usual standard. The height of the old man, who was +rather bent by age, was four feet eleven inches; and that of the +other men, from five feet four and a half to five feet six inches. +Their faces are round and plump in the younger individuals; skin +smooth; complexion not very dark, except that of the old man; +teeth very white; eyes small; nose broad, but not very flat; hair +black, straight, and glossy; and their hands and feet extremely +diminutive. The old man had a gray beard, in which the black hairs +predominated, and wore the hair rather long upon his upper lip, +which was also the case with the eldest of the three others. + +The grown-up females measured from four feet ten to four feet +eleven inches. The features of the two youngest were regular; +their complexions clear, and by no means dark; their eyes small, +black, and piercing; teeth beautifully white and perfect; and, +although the form of their faces is round and chubby, and their +noses rather flat than otherwise, their countenances might, +perhaps, be considered pleasing, even according to the ideas of +beauty which habit has taught us to entertain. Their hair, which +is jet-black, hangs down long and loose about their shoulders, a +part of it on each side being carelessly platted, and sometimes +rolled up into an awkward lump, instead of being neatly tied on +the top of the head, as the Esquimaux women in most other parts +are accustomed to wear it. The youngest female had much natural +bashfulness and timidity, and we considered her to be the only +unmarried one, as she differed from the other three in not being +tattooed upon the face. Two of them had their hands tattooed also, +and the old woman had a few marks of the same kind about each +wrist. None of the men or children were thus distinguished. + +The children were generally good-looking, and the eldest boy, +about twelve years of age, was a remarkably fine and even handsome +lad. They were rather scared at us at first; but kind treatment +and a few trifling presents soon removed their fears, and made +them almost as importunate as the rest. + +The dress of the men consists of a sealskin jacket, with a hood, +which is occasionally drawn over the head, of which it forms the +only covering. The breeches are also generally of sealskin, and +are made to reach below the knee; and their boots, which meet the +breeches, are made of the same material. In this dress we +perceived no difference from that of the other Esquimaux, except +that the jacket, instead of having a pointed flap before and +behind, as usual, was quite straight behind, and had a sort of +scallop before in the centre. In the dress of the women there was +not so much regard to decency as in that of the men. The jacket is +of sealskin, with a short, pointed flap before, and a long one +behind, reaching almost to the ground. They had on a kind of +drawers, similar to those described by Crantz as the summer dress +of the Greenland women, and no breeches. The drawers cover the +middle part of the body, from the hips to one third down the +thigh, the rest of which is entirely naked as far as the knee. The +boots are like those of the men; and, besides these, they have a +pair of very loose leggins, as they may be called, which hang down +carelessly upon the top of the boots, suffering their thighs to be +exposed in the manner before described, but which may be intended +occasionally to fasten up, so as to complete the covering of the +whole body. The children are all remarkably well clothed; their +dress, both in male and female, being in every respect the same as +that of the men, and composed entirely of sealskin very neatly +sewed. + +The tents which compose their summer habitations are principally +supported by a long pole of whalebone, fourteen feet high, +standing perpendicularly, with four or five feet of it projecting +above the skins which form the roof and sides. The length of the +tent is seventeen, and its breadth from seven to nine feet, the +narrowest part being next the door, and widening towards the inner +part, where the bed, composed of a quantity of the small shrubby +plant, the _Andromeda Tetragona_, occupies about one third of the +whole apartment. The pole of the tent is fixed where the bed +commences, and the latter is kept separate by some pieces of bone +laid across the tent from side to side. The door, which faces the +southwest, is also formed of two pieces of bone, with the upper +ends fastened together, and the skins are made to overlap in that +part of the tent, which is much lower than the inner end. The +covering is fastened to the ground by curved pieces of bone, being +generally parts of the whale; the tents were ten or fifteen yards +apart, and about the same distance from the beach. + +The canoe which I purchased, and which was one of the best of the +five that we saw, is sixteen feet eleven inches in length, and its +extreme breadth two feet one inch and a half; two feet of its fore +end are out of the water when floating. It differs from the canoe +of Greenland in being somewhat lower at each end, and also in +having a higher rim or gunwale, as it may be termed, round the +circular hole where the man sits, which may make them somewhat +safer at sea. Their construction is, in other respects, much the +same; the timbers or ribs, which are five or six inches apart, as +well as the fore and aft connecting pieces, being of whalebone or +drift-wood, and the skins with which they were covered, those of +the seal and walrus. When the canoes are taken on the shore, they +are carefully placed upon two upright piles or pillars of stones, +four feet high from the ground, in order to allow the air to pass +under to dry them, and prevent their rotting. The paddle is double +and made of fir, the edges of the blade being covered with hard +bone to secure them from wearing. + +The spears or darts which they use in killing seals and other sea +animals, consist, like the harpoons of our fishermen, of two +parts, a staff, and the spear itself; the former is usually of +wood, when so scarce and valuable a commodity can be obtained, +from three and a half to five feet in length, and the latter of +bone, about eighteen inches long, sometimes tipped with iron, but +more commonly ground to a blunt point at one end, while the other +fits into a socket in the staff, to which it is firmly secured by +thongs. The lines which they attach to their spears are very +neatly cut out of sealskins, and, when in a state of preparation, +are left to stretch till dry between the tents, and then made up +into coils for use. They make use of a bladder fastened to the end +of the line, in the same manner as the other Esquimaux. Besides +the spears, we purchased an instrument having a rude hook of iron +let into a piece of bone, and secured by thongs to a staff, the +hook being sharply pointed, but not barbed. While we were on the +island (to which I had applied the name of Observation Island), it +happened that a small bird flew near us, when one of the Esquimaux +made a sign of shooting it with a bow and arrow in a manner which +could not be misunderstood. It is remarkable, therefore, that we +could not find about their tents any of these weapons, except a +little one of five or six inches long, the bow being made of +whalebone and the arrow of fir, with a feather at one end and a +blunt point of bone at the other, evidently appearing to be a +child's toy, and intended, perhaps, to teach the use of it at an +early age. + +The runners of the only sledge we saw were composed of the right +and left jawbones of a young whale, being nine feet nine inches +long, and one foot seven inches apart, and seven inches high from +the ground. They are connected by a number of parallel pieces, +made out of the ribs of the whale, and secured transversely with +seizings of whalebone, so as to form the bottom of the sledge, and +the back is made of two deers' horns placed in an upright +position. The lower part of the runners is shod with a harder kind +of bone, to resist the friction against the ground. The whole +vehicle is rudely executed, and, being nearly twice the weight of +the sledges we saw among the northern Esquimaux, is probably +intended for carrying heavy burdens. The dogs were not less than +fifty or sixty in number, and had nothing about them different +from those on the eastern coast of Baffin's Bay, except they do +not stand near so high as those of the latitude of 76°. They are +very shy and wild, and the natives had great difficulty in +catching them while we were by, as well as holding them in when +caught. Some of them have much more of the wolf in their +appearance than others, having very long heads and sharp noses, +with a brushy tail, almost always carried between the legs; while +the bodies of others are less lank, as well as their noses less +sharp, and they carry their tails handsomely curled over their +backs: their colour varied from quite dark to brindled. The +ravenous manner in which they devour their food is almost +incredible. Both the old and young ones, when a bird is given +them, generally swallow feathers and all; and an old dog that I +purchased, though regularly fed while on board by a person +appointed for that purpose, ate up, with great avidity, a large +piece of canvass, a cotton handkerchief, which one of the men had +just washed and laid down by his side, and a part of a check +shirt. The young dogs will at any time kill themselves by +over-eating if permitted. The children appeared to have some right +of property in the smaller puppies, or else their parents are very +indulgent to them, for several bargains of this kind were made +with them, without any objection or interference on the part of +the parents, who were standing by at the time. + +Within a few stones, irregularly placed in a corner of each tent, +was a lump of oil and moss, and over each of these was suspended a +small stone vessel of an oblong shape, and broader at the top than +at the bottom, containing a large mess of seahorse flesh, with a +great quantity of thick gravy. Some ribs of this meat were by no +means bad looking; and, but for the blood mixed with the gravy, +and the dirt which accompanied the cooking, might perhaps be +palatable enough. I bargained with a woman for one of the stone +vessels, giving her a brass kettle in exchange. Before she gave it +into my possession, she emptied the meat into another vessel, and +then, with the flap of her jacket, wiped out the remains of the +gravy; thus combining with what our notions of cleanliness incline +us to consider a filthy act, an intention of decency and a desire +to oblige us, which, however inconsistent, it was pleasing to +observe. Some of their vessels are made of whalebone, in a +circular form, one piece being bent into the proper shape for the +sides, and another flat piece, of the same material, sewn to it +for a bottom, so closely as to make it perfectly water tight. +Their knives are made of the tusks of the walrus, cut or ground +sufficiently thin for the purpose, and retaining the original +curve of the tusk, so as to resemble the little swords which +children have as toys in England. As they do not appear to have +any instrument like a saw, great time and labour must be required +in making one of these knives, which seem to answer most of the +purposes to which they have occasion to apply them. + +From the description given to us by Mr. Williamson, we found that +these were the same persons who had been seen by the Lee's people; +but we had several proofs of their having had some previous +communication, directly or indirectly, with the civilized world; +such as some light-blue beads, strung by themselves on thin +leathern threads; and an instrument for chopping, very much +resembling a cooper's adze, which had evidently been secured to a +handle of bone for some time past, and of which the iron was part +of an old file. + +The short time we were among them, as well as the want of an +interpreter, prevented our obtaining much of the information, +which would have been interesting, respecting the language, +manners, and number of this tribe of Esquimaux. They call the bear +_nennook_, the deer _tooktook_, and the hare _ookalik_, being +nearly the same words as those used on the eastern coast of +Baffin's Bay. As it was considered a matter of some interest to +ascertain whether they were acquainted with the musk-ox, a drawing +of that animal was put before the men who were on board. The small +size of it seemed, at first sight, to confound them; but, as soon +as the real head and horns were produced, they immediately +recognised them, and eagerly repeated the word _oomingmack_, which +at once satisfied us that they knew the musk-ox, and that this was +the animal spoken of by the Esquimaux of Greenland, under the same +name, somewhat differently pronounced. + +To judge by their appearance, and what is, perhaps, a better +criterion, the number of their children, there could be little +doubt that the means of subsistence which they possess are very +abundant; but of this we had more direct proof by the quantity of +seahorses and seals which we found concealed under stones along +the shore of the north branch, as well as on Observation Island. +Mr. Fife reported that, in sounding the north branch, he met with +their winter huts above two miles above the tents on the same +shore, and that they were partly excavated from a bank facing the +sea, and the rest built round with stones. + +We saw no appearance of disease among the seventeen persons who +inhabited the tents, except that the eyes of the old couple were +rather blear, and a very young infant looked pale and sickly. The +old man had a large scar on one side of his head, which he +explained to us very clearly to be a wound he had received from a +_nennook_ (bear). Upon the whole, these people may be considered +in possession of every necessary of life, as well as of most of +the comforts and conveniences which can be enjoyed in so rude a +state of society. In the situation and circumstances in which the +Esquimaux of North Greenland are placed, there is much to excite +compassion for the low state to which human nature appears to be +there reduced; a state in few respects superior to that of the +bear or the seal which they kill for their subsistence. But, with +these, it was impossible not to experience a feeling of a more +pleasing kind: there was a respectful decency in their general +behaviour, which at once struck us as very different from that of +the other untutored Esquimaux, and in their persons there was less +of that intolerable filth by which these people are so generally +distinguished. But the superiority for which they are the most +remarkable is, the perfect honesty which characterized all their +dealings with us. During the two hours that the men were on board, +and for four or five hours that we were subsequently among them on +shore (on both which occasions the temptation to steal from us was +perhaps stronger than we can well imagine, and the opportunity of +doing so by no means wanting), not a single instance occurred, to +my knowledge, of their pilfering the most trifling article. It is +pleasing to record a fact no less singular in itself than +honourable to these simple people. + +Having made the necessary observations, we went to the tents to +take leave of our new acquaintance. The old man seemed quite +fatigued with the day's exertions; but his eyes sparkled with +delight, and we thought with gratitude too, on being presented +with another brass kettle to add to the stores with which we had +already enriched him. He seemed to understand us when we shook him +by the hand; the whole group watched us in silence as we went into +the boat, and, as soon as we had rowed a few hundred yards from +the beach, quietly returned to their tents. + +The wind being contrary on the 8th, we made very little progress +to the southward. The soundings continuing as regular as before, +we stood in-shore to eleven fathoms, and put the trawl overboard +for an hour or two in the afternoon, bringing up a great quantity +of sea-eggs, a few very small oysters, and some marine insects, +but nothing that could furnish us with a fresh meal. + +The wind having fallen, we made little progress to the southeast +till the morning of the 12th, when a light breeze springing up +from the southwest, all sail was made to examine the state of the +ice. On approaching the floes, however, we found such a quantity +of bay-ice, the formation of which upon the surface had been +favoured by the late calm weather, that the Hecla was soon stopped +altogether; a circumstance which gave us, as usual, much trouble +in extricating ourselves from it, but not very material as +regarded our farther progress to the southward, the floes being +found to stretch quite close in to the land, leaving no passage +whatever between them. The compasses now traversed very freely, +and were made use of for the purposes of navigation in the +ordinary way. + +The fog continued so thick on the 16th as to oblige us to keep the +ships fast to the floe. In the afternoon the deep-sea clamms were +sent down to the bottom with two thousand and ten fathoms of line, +which were fifty-eight minutes in running out, during which time +no perceptible check could be observed, nor even any alteration in +the velocity with which the line ran out. In hauling it in again, +however, which occupied both ships' companies above an hour and a +half, we found such a quantity of the line covered with mud as to +prove that the whole depth of water was only eight hundred and +nine fathoms, the rest of the line having continued to run out by +its own weight, after the instrument had struck the ground. I have +before had occasion to remark that, on this account, it is not +easy to ascertain the actual depth of the sea in the usual manner +when it exceeds five or six hundred fathoms. + +The ships were secured to a berg at six P.M. of the 18th, and the +wind having freshened up to a gale from the N.W.b.N., with some +swell, we were much annoyed during the night by the ice which +drifted under the lee of it, and on which the ships were +constantly striking with a heavy shock, such as no others could +have long withstood. This danger is avoided by ships lying very +close under the lee of a berg, but a much greater is thereby +incurred from the risk of the berg's upsetting; a circumstance +which is always to be apprehended in a swell, and which must be +attended with certain destruction to a ship moored very near to +it. + +On the 24th and 25th we continued our progress to the southward, +but without any success in approaching, or even getting sight of, +the land; the ice being as close and compact as when we sailed +along the margin of it in July of the preceding year. Soon after +noon on the 24th we crossed the Arctic Circle, having been within +it fourteen months and three weeks. + +On the morning of the 26th we again stood to the westward as much +as the ice would allow, but were soon obliged by it to keep away +to the southward, precluding every hope of making the land on that +part of the coast which it would have been most interesting to +explore. In the afternoon, after various attempts to get to the +westward, appearances became more unpromising than ever, the +packed ice extending from N.b.E. round to S.W. There were, indeed, +parts of the ice which, with constant daylight, a ship might have +entered with some probability of success; but, with twelve hours' +night, the attempt must have been attended with a degree of risk +which nothing but a very important object could justify. The wind +had now freshened up from the N.N.W., and the mercury in the +barometer fell with unusual rapidity, with every other appearance +of an approaching gale. I was therefore under the necessity of +admitting the conclusion that, under existing circumstances, the +season was now too far advanced, and the state of the ice too +unfavourable, to allow of any farther examination of the coast; +and I determined, therefore, to make the best of my way to +England. The boats were accordingly hoisted in, and the ships made +snug while in smooth water under the lee of the ice, and a course +was then shaped to the E.S.E., in order to obtain an offing before +we bore away to the southward. + +On the second of October, in scudding before the wind under the +main-topsail, a heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard +quarter, rendering it necessary to press her forward under more +canvass, by which we lost sight of the Griper in the course of the +morning. As soon as the weather moderated, we hove-to for her; +but, as she did not make her appearance, having, as we afterward +learned, been obliged to lie-to during the height of the gale, we +continued our course out of the Straits, and did not again meet +with the Griper till our return to England. + +On the afternoon of the 16th, the sea being very high and +irregular, and the ship pitching with considerable violence, the +bowsprit was carried away close to the gammoning, and the foremast +and main-topmast immediately followed it over the side. The wreck +was quickly cleared; and, by the greatest activity and energy on +the part of the officers and men, the mainyard and mainmast were +saved, the latter having been endangered by the foremast falling +across the stay, and the former by the wreck of the main-topmast +and top-sail-yard lying upon it. Notwithstanding the continuance +of the gale, and the uneasy motion of the ship for the next two +days, we succeeded in getting up our jury masts so as to make sail +on the evening of the 18th. + +On the 29th we made Buchaness, and on the following day, the wind +having come to the southward, so as to make our progress very +slow, I landed at Peterhead, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr. +Hooper; having first, in compliance with their lordships' +directions, demanded from the officers, petty officers, and all +other persons on board the Hecla, the logs, journals, charts, +drawings, and other documents which the voyage had furnished, and +directed Lieutenant Beechey to proceed with all possible despatch +to Leith. Captain Sabine and myself proceeded without delay to +London, where we arrived on the morning of the 3d of November. + + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A +NORTHWEST PASAGE + + + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +The discoveries made by the expedition to the northwest in the +years 1819-20 being such as to afford a strong presumption in +favour of the existence of a passage from the Atlantic to the +Pacific in that direction, his majesty commanded another attempt +to be made to effect that object; and the lords commissioners of +the admiralty were pleased once more to honour me with the command +of an expedition, to be equipped at Deptford for that purpose. The +Hecla having been found well adapted to this service, a second +ship of precisely the same class was now selected, and I received +my commission for his majesty's ship the Fury, of three hundred +and seventy-seven tons burden, on the 30th of December, 1820. The +Hecla was recommissioned by Captain George Francis Lyon on the 4th +of January following. + +In our official instructions I was directed to proceed, as quickly +as might be consistent with every precaution, towards or into +Hudson's Strait until the ice was met with, when the Nautilus +transport, which was directed by the navy board to be placed at my +disposal, was to be cleared of its provisions and stores. We were +then to penetrate to the westward, through Hudson's Strait, until +we reached (either in Repulse Bay, or on other part of the shores +of Hudson's Strait to the north of Wager River) some part of the +coast, which I felt convinced was a portion of the _Continent_ of +America. + +If we happily reached the Pacific, we were to proceed to +Kamschatka, from thence to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, and, +having refitted the ships and refreshed the crews, to return to +England by such route as might be deemed convenient. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +The FURY, HECLA, and NAUTILUS transport were completed for sea +towards the latter part of the month of April, and on the 29th, at +ten A.M., the Fury was taken in tow by the Eclipse steamboat, +which vessel had before taken us down the river on a similar +occasion. The Hecla reached the moorings on the following day, and +the Nautilus on the first of May. + +Nothing of consequence happened during our passage across the +Atlantic; but, after entering Davis's Straits, we had for several +days variable and unsettled weather, the wind blowing principally +from the southward, with a heavy swell from the same quarter. On +the 14th we met with the first iceberg, being in lat. 60° 48', +long. 53° 13'. + +Having now reached the situation in which I was directed, by my +instructions, to clear the Nautilus of our stores, I gave +Lieutenant Scrymgour his instructions to return to England; and at +one A.M. on the 1st of July he parted company, while the Fury and +Hecla stood in towards the ice. A whaler, deeply laden, and +apparently homeward bound, was at this time in sight to the +eastward. + +At seven P.M., Tuesday, 3d July, the ice opposed our farther +progress to the westward, covering the whole sea as far as the eye +could reach in that direction; the ships were therefore, of +necessity, hove to, in order to await some change in our favour. +The ice here consisted principally of large though loose masses of +broken floes, none covering more than a quarter of an acre, and +few so much, but having many high hummocks, and drawing a great +deal of water. We counted also above thirty bergs in sight at one +time, and observed that many of them were carried about by the +tides with great rapidity. + +The wind shifted to the southeastward in the night of the 5th, +with a strong breeze and heavy rain; and, on the following +morning, when the ebb-tide opened the ice a little, a considerable +swell was admitted from the sea, causing the ships to strike +violently and almost constantly on the masses of ice alongside of +them. In this situation they continued for several hours so +completely beset as to render it impossible to extricate them, and +drifting about at random with the tides. The Hecla was, by a +different set of the stream, separated five or six miles from the +Fury, while both ships were equally hampered. + +On the 13th, both ships' companies were exercised in firing at a +target on the ice, as well for the purpose of giving them +occupation as of finding out who were the best shots. On the same +afternoon we saw two ships beset to the northward, which we +supposed to be those bound to the Hudson's Bay factories. They +were joined the next day by a third ship, which afterward proved +to be, as we conjectured, the Lord Wellington, having on board +settlers for the Red River. + +The ice being rather less close on the morning of the 16th, we +made sail to the westward at 7.45 A.M., and continued "boring" in +that situation the whole day, which enabled us to join the three +strange ships. They proved to be, as we had supposed, the Prince +of Wales, Eddystone, and Lord Wellington, bound to Hudson's Bay. I +sent a boat to the former to request Mr. Davidson, the master, to +come on board, which he immediately did. From him we learned that +the Lord Wellington having on board one hundred and sixty settlers +for the Red River, principally foreigners, of both sexes and every +age, had now been twenty days among the ice, and had been drifted +about in various directions at no small risk to the ship. By the +Prince of Wales we sent our last letters for our friends in +England. + +Proceeding slowly to the westward, we had reached at noon on the +21st the lat. of 61° 50' 13", long., by chronometers, 67° 07' 35". +In this situation several islands were in sight to the northward +and westward, and, among the rest, a remarkable one called +Saddle-back on account of its shape. The wind backing to the +westward in the afternoon, we anchored the ships to the largest +floe-piece we could find, there not being room to beat to the +windward. While thus employed we heard voices in-shore, which we +soon knew to be those of some Esquimaux coming off to us. Shortly +after, several canoes made their appearance, and seventeen of +these people came alongside the Fury. Having hauled their _kayaks_ +(canoes) upon the floe, they began to barter their commodities, +consisting of seal and whale blubber, whalebone, spears, lines, +and the skins of the seal, bear, fox, deer, and dog. Our first +endeavour was to procure as much oil as possible, of which, as we +had been informed by the Hudson's Bay ships, several tons are thus +almost annually obtained from these people. We soon found that +they had been well accustomed to bargain-making, for it was with +some difficulty that we could prevail on them to sell the oil for +anything of reasonable value. They frequently gave us to +understand that they wanted saws and harpoons in exchange for it, +and as these were articles which we could not spare, it was not +without trouble that we obtained, in the course of the evening, +two barrels of blubber in exchange for several knives, large +nails, and pieces of iron hoop, which was certainly a dear bargain +on our side. If they saw more than one of these at a time, they +would try hard to get the whole for the commodity they were +offering, though, when we had for some time persisted in refusing, +they would not only accept what was offered, but jump for joy at +having obtained it. They always licked the articles given them, +and in one instance only did we notice any inclination to break +the contract after this process had been gone through. + +Shortly after these men had arrived, a large _oomiak_, or woman's +boat, made its appearance, containing six or seven females and +four men, the oldest of the latter, as is usual among them, +steering the boat with a rude oar of wood. The women could not be +induced to land upon the floe, but held up skins and small narrow +strips of well-tanned leather to exchange, loudly vociferating +_pilletay_ (give me) the whole time. There were in this boat +several skins of oil and blubber, which I tried hard to purchase, +but nothing could induce the old man to part with more than one +skin of it; for what reason I could not tell, except that he +hoped, by perseverance, to obtain a higher price. On my desiring +our men to hand out a second skin of oil, as an equivalent for +which I put into the old man's hand a second knife, he resisted +most vehemently, pushing our men aside in the boat with a violence +I have never seen the Esquimaux use on any other occasion. One of +the younger men then came forward, and was lifting up the stretcher +of their boat to strike our people, who were good-humouredly +laughing at the old man's violence, when I thought it high time to +interpose, and, raising a boat-hook over the head of the Esquimaux, +as if about to strike them, soon brought them into a cooler mood; +after which, to prevent farther altercation, I ordered our people +out of the boat. We had by this time succeeded in purchasing all +the oil brought by the first canoes; and as the old fellow, who was +commanding officer of the _oomiak_, obstinately persisted in his +refusal to sell his, I ordered him away, when he immediately rowed +to the Hecla, and, as I was afterward informed by Captain Lyon, +sold his oil for less than he might have obtained at first. Four +other _oomiaks_ afterward came from the shore, from which we were +distant five or six miles. Each of these contained from fourteen to +twenty-six persons, the majority being females and young children. +Upon the whole, not less than one hundred of the natives visited +the ships in the course of the evening. + +These people possessed in an eminent degree the disposition to +steal all they could lay their hands on, which has almost +universally been imputed to every tribe of Esquimaux hitherto +visited by Europeans. They tried more than once the art of picking +our pockets, and were as bold and unembarrassed as ever +immediately after detection. It is impossible to describe the +horribly disgusting manner in which they sat down, as soon as they +felt hungry, to eat their raw blubber, and to suck the oil +remaining on the skins we had just emptied, the very smell of +which, as well as the appearance, was to us almost insufferable. +The disgust which our seaman could not help expressing at this +sight seemed to create in the Esquimaux the most malicious +amusement; and when our people turned away, literally unable to +bear the sight without being sick, they would, as a good joke +among themselves, run after them, holding out a piece of blubber +or raw seal's flesh dripping with oil and filth, as if inviting +them to partake of it. Both the men and women were guilty of still +more disgusting indecencies, which seemed to afford them amazing +diversion. A worse trait even than all these was displayed by two +women alongside the Hecla, who, in a manner too unequivocal to be +misunderstood, offered to barter their children for some article +of trifling value, beginning very deliberately to strip them of +their clothes, which they did not choose to consider as included +in the intended bargain. + +Upon the whole, it was impossible for us not to receive a very +unfavourable impression of the general behaviour and moral +character of the natives of this part of Hudson's Strait, who seem +to have acquired, by an annual intercourse with our ships for +nearly a hundred years, many of the vices which unhappily attend a +first intercourse with the civilized world, without having imbibed +any of the virtues or refinements which adorn and render it happy. + +Early on the morning of the 22d a number of canoes repeated their +visit to us, the Esquimaux having hauled them upon a piece of ice +to lodge for the night. In the forenoon an _oomiak_ also came from +the shore, and as no intercourse with them was permitted till +after divine service, they became very impatient to barter their +commodities, and walked on the ice alongside the ships, with a +number of trifling things in their hands, vociferating "pilletay" +to such a degree that we could hardly hear ourselves speak. Some +more oil was obtained in exchange for pieces of iron hoop, and, at +a quarter before noon, the wind coming more to the southward, and +the ice being somewhat less close than before, we cast off and +made sail up the strait. + +The wind and ice combined to favour us more and more as we +proceeded, the former both in strength and direction, and the +latter by opening into loose streams, so that, for the first time +since we entered Hudson's Strait, we were now enabled to set all +the studding-sails, with some prospect of deriving advantage from +them. The Hudson's Bay ships remained at anchor some time after we +made sail, and in the course of the evening we finally lost sight +of them. From this circumstance, as well as from the unimpeded +progress we had just begun to make to the westward, it was now +only that we considered our voyage as having fairly commenced. + +We continued, on the first of August, to beat to the westward, +between Nottingham Island and the North Shore, the distance +between which is about four leagues, and the latter fringed with +numerous islands. In the course of the morning, several canoes and +one _oomiak_ came off from the mainland, containing about twenty +persons, more than half of whom were women and children. They +brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, +which they were willing to exchange for any trifle we chose to +give them. They had also a number of toys of various kinds, such +as canoes with their paddles, spears, and bows and arrows, all on +a very large scale. Many of the jackets of these people, and +particularly those of the females, were lined with the skins of +birds, having the feathers inside; and they had also in the boat +several other skins in a prepared state, taken from the throat of +the _colymbus glacialis_, which splendid bird, though we had twice +found its skin in possession of the Esquimaux, we had yet not met +with ourselves. + +The expedition being now about to enter upon ground not hitherto +explored, it became necessary for me to decide upon the route it +would be most advantageous to pursue for the accomplishment of the +principal objects pointed out in my instructions. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +After the most anxious consideration, I came to the resolution of +attempting the direct passage of the Frozen Strait; though, I +confess, not without some apprehension of the risk I was +incurring, and of the serious loss of time which, in case of +failure either from the non-existence of the strait or from the +insuperable obstacles which its name implies, would thus be +inevitably occasioned to the expedition. + +The accounts given by Captain Middleton of the latitude of the +western entrance of the Frozen Strait are so confused, and even +contradictory, that the present appearance of the land perplexed +me extremely in deciding whether or not we had arrived at the +opposite end of the opening to which he had given that name. That +immediately before us to the westward, though it agreed in +latitude within five or six miles with the southernmost parallel +he has assigned to it, appeared much too narrow to answer his +description of the passage we were in search of. Upon the whole, +however, I thought it most probable that this was the strait in +question; and as, at all events, the opening between Southampton +Island and the land to the northward of it, in whatever latitude +it might be found, and whether wide or narrow, was the passage +through which it was our present object to penetrate into Repulse +Bay, I decided on using our utmost exertions to push through the +narrow strait now before us. + +On the morning of the 13th we observed something very like smoke +rising from about Cape Welsford, which, being confined to one +spot, was thought likely to be occasioned by the fires of natives. +Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather about this time; +the climate was, indeed, altogether so different from that to +which we had before been accustomed in the icy seas, as to be a +matter of constant remark. The days were temperate and clear, and +the nights not cold, though a very thin plate of ice was usually +formed upon the surface of the sea in sheltered places, and in the +pools of water upon the floes. After sunset we descried land, +appearing very distant, through the middle of the strait, which we +considered to be that on the American side of the Welcome. At this +time, also, we observed some ice in the centre of the strait +heavier than that which covered the rest of the sea, and +apparently aground in shoal water, as afterward proved to be the +case. + +On the 15th we were within a league of a remarkable headland on +Southampton Island, which I named CAPE BYLOT, as being probably +the westernmost land seen by that navigator in 1615. In the mean +time, the Hecla, still continuing very closely beset, had, in +spite of every exertion, drifted back with the ice several miles +to the northward and eastward, so that in the course of the +evening we lost sight of her altogether. This latter circumstance +was, however, owing in great measure to the extraordinary +refraction upon the horizon, making terrestrial objects at the +distance of six or seven miles appear flattened down or depressed, +as well as otherwise much deformed. + +At six P.M., having beat up within five or six miles of the +entrance of the strait, and being anxious to sound the channel, +which appeared narrow, but without any ice in it to offer us +obstruction, I left the ship in the gig, accompanied by Mr. Ross, +for this purpose. + +The part of Southampton Island on which we landed is about a +thousand feet high, and composed of gneiss. Every here and there +along the shore, between the projecting points of rocks, is a +small cove or bay, having a beach composed of small pieces of +limestone, which make the water almost as white as milk. Landing +in one of these coves, we carried the boat above high-water mark; +and making a tent of her sail, lay very comfortably during the +night. When the boat first touched the beach, we observed an +innumerable quantity of the little fish called sillocks swimming +about, several of which were killed by the boat-hooks or taken in +the hand. A great number of white whales, seals, and narwhals were +also playing about near the beach during the night. The white +whales were the most numerous; the noise these animals made +resembled a hoarse, low-toned barking more than any other to which +I can compare it; and we remarked that their colour was whiter +than any we had before seen. + +As soon as it was daylight Mr. Ross and myself ascended the hill +above our sleeping-place, from whence we could perceive land +stretching round to the westward and northward, so as apparently +to leave no opening in that quarter. We were much surprised at the +low and yellowish appearance of this land, both of which +circumstances we were at a loss to reconcile with Captain +Middleton's description of the bold shore of the American +Continent, on the western side of the Welcome, about this +latitude. It was pleasing, however, to observe a large expanse of +sea, wholly unencumbered with ice, in the direction we were now +about to pursue; and we therefore hastened to the beach to +continue the survey of the strait, that no time might be lost in +taking advantage of this favourable circumstance. + +After completing our observations and examination of the channel, +we reached the ship by eight A.M., the Fury having, with great +attention, been kept close off the entrance of the strait during +the night. The Hecla had at this time just hove in sight, under a +press of sail, to the eastward, having at length, with much +difficulty, succeeded in getting into clear water. + +At half past nine on the 17th we got under way, and stood under +all sail to the N.N.E., where alone, as on the preceding evening, +there appeared the smallest chance of finding any outlet. + +Having determined the continuity of land all round this +magnificent bay, possessing so many advantages that would render +it invaluable in a more temperate climate, the officers honoured +it with the name of the DUKE OF YORK'S BAY, in consequence of the +expedition having first entered it on the birthday of his royal +highness. + +It being now evident that the inlet into which, in the course of +our endeavours to penetrate to the westward, we had unavoidably +been led, would afford us no passage in that direction, I gave +orders for weighing at the turn of tide, being determined at once +to run back through the narrow channel by which we had entered, +and to push to the northward without delay, in search of some more +favourable opening. + +Our uncertainty respecting the true situation of the Frozen +Strait, together with the want of observations during the day, +left us, at this time, in doubt whether we had already penetrated +through that passage, or had still to encounter the difficulties +which the former accounts of it had led us to anticipate. + +We stood up the bay towards daylight, and at seven A.M. I left the +Fury, accompanied by a large party of officers, having by signal +requested Captain Lyon to join us. We landed upon a point just to +the eastward of this bight, in which neighbourhood are several +little islands and coves, probably affording good anchorage, but +which the more immediate objects we had in view did not permit us +to examine. Upon the point we found the remains of no less than +sixty Esquimaux habitations, consisting of stones laid one over +the other in very regular circles, eight or nine feet in diameter, +besides nearly a hundred other rude, though certainly artificial +structures, some of which had been fireplaces, others storehouses, +and the rest tolerably-built walls four or five feet high, placed +two and two, and generally eight or nine feet apart, which these +people use for their canoes, as well as to keep the dogs from +gnawing them. A great many circles of stones were also seen more +inland. About three miles to the N.N.W. of our landing-place, our +people reported having seen fifteen others of the same kind, and +what they took to be a burying-ground, consisting of nine or ten +heaps of large stones, of three feet in diameter, and as many in +height. Under these were found a variety of little implements, +such as arrow or spear heads tipped with stone or iron, arrows, +small models of canoes and paddles, some rough pieces of bone and +wood, and one or two strips of asbestos, which, as Crantz informs +us, is used by the natives of Greenland for the wick of their +lamps, and for applying hot, in certain diseases, to the afflicted +part.[*] Under these articles were found smaller stones, placed as +a pavement, six or seven feet in length, which, in the part not +concealed by the larger stones, was covered with earth. Our men +had not the curiosity or inclination to dig any deeper, but a +human scull was found near the spot. Our people also reported +that, several miles inland of this, they observed stones set up as +marks, many of which we also met with in the neighbourhood of the +point. Of these marks, which occur so abundantly in every part of +the American coast that we visited, we could not then conjecture +the probable use, but we afterward learned that the Esquimaux set +them up to guide them in travelling from place to place, when a +covering of snow renders it difficult to distinguish one spot from +another. We found among the stones some seals' bones, with the +flesh still upon them, which seemed to indicate that the natives +had occupied this station during a part of the same season and +judging from the number of circles collected in this place, and +still more from our subsequent knowledge of these people, it is +probable that not less than one hundred and twenty persons had +taken up their residence here at the same time. + +[Footnote: Crantz, i., 236. The Esquimaux on this part of the +coast use it only as sticks for trimming their lamps.] + +The latitude observed on shore was 66° 30' 58", being the first +observation we had yet obtained so near the Arctic Circle, but far +to the southward of that given by Captain Middleton.[*] The +longitude, by chronometers, was 86° 30' 20"; the dip of the +magnetic needle, 88° 07' 28"; and the variation, 48° 32' 57" +westerly; being only a degree and a half less than that observed +by Middleton in 1742. + +[Footnote: The difference amounts to about twenty miles. It is but +justice, however, to the memory of Captain Middleton to add, that +several miles of this error may have been occasioned by the +imperfection of nautical instruments in his day, combined with the +unavoidable inaccuracy of observations made by the horizon of the +sea when encumbered with much ice. On this latter account, as well +as from the extraordinary terrestrial refraction, no observation +can be here depended upon, unless made with an artificial +horizon.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +Having now satisfactorily determined the non-existence of a +passage to the westward through Repulse Bay, to which point I was +particularly directed in my instructions, it now remained for me, +in compliance with my orders, to "keep along the line of this +coast to the northward, always examining every bend or inlet which +might appear likely to afford a practicable passage to the +westward." It was here, indeed, that our voyage, as regarded its +main object, may be said to have commenced, and we could not but +congratulate ourselves on having reached this point so early, and +especially at having passed, almost without impediment, the strait +to which, on nearly the same day[*] seventy-nine years before, so +forbidding a name had been applied. + +[Footnote: Middleton discovered the Frozen Strait on the 20th +August 1742, according to the New Style.] + +All sail was made at daylight on the 23d along the northern shore +of the Frozen Strait, which here continues about the same height +as that of Repulse Bay, and was at this time quite free from snow. +At nine A.M. the weather became squally with thick snow, which +rendered great caution necessary in running. There was something +in the appearance of this part of the coast which held out so +favourable a prospect of a direct passage to the northward, that I +determined more closely to examine it. Having beat up to the mouth +of an opening which, the nearer we approached, assumed a more and +more favourable appearance, we found that a body of ice occupied +the greater part of the channel, rendering it impracticable then +to enter it either with the ships or the boats. The only mode +left, therefore, of examining it without loss of time, was to +despatch a party equipped for travelling by land, to ascertain +enough of its extent and communications to enable me to decide as +to our farther progress. As, however, in their present situation, +I did not feel myself justified in leaving the ships, I requested +Captain Lyon to undertake this service. He was accompanied by Mr. +Bushnan and two seamen from each ship, and was furnished with a +tent, blankets, and four days' provisions. + +Captain Lyon, on his return, at the end of two days, reported that +he had landed on an island, which he called BUSHNAN'S ISLAND, had +then crossed a strait, to which afterward the name of HURD'S +CHANNEL was given, and landed on a steep point called by him CAPE +MONTAGU. From hence his party proceeded to a high and remarkable +hill called BROOKS'S BLUFF: following the strait to the northward, +they passed the remains of many Esquimaux habitations; and, though +their short journey had been unsatisfactory on account of the +badness of the weather, there was still sufficient to cause the +most lively interest, and give strong hopes of the existence of +some passage to the northeast of the small inlet they had +examined. + +At eight P.M., having shoaled the water from sixty to forty, and +then to thirty-two fathoms, and the weather still continuing +extremely thick, I suspected that the tide was taking us too close +to Passage Island, which was the nearest land when the fog came +on. A large space of open water was at this time not more than a +quarter of a mile distant from us in the opposite direction; but, +before the ships could be moved by warps or any other means within +our power, the tide was observed to be setting her directly +between the island and the little yellow-looking rock I have +before mentioned as lying on its eastern side. The anchors were +kept ready to drop in an instant should the ship drive into shoal +water; had we grounded, and the heavy masses of ice continued to +drive upon us, little less than the total destruction of the ship +was to be apprehended. The natural direction of the stream, +however, effected for us that which, hampered as we were, our own +exertions must have failed in accomplishing; the ship drove +through, at the distance of one hundred yards from the rock and +about one hundred and forty from Passage Island, having no less +than twelve fathoms; and soon after deepened the water to +thirty-five and forty, and then to no bottom with ninety. + +After this providential escape we lay-to within the island, in +order to drift to the northward and westward of it with the flood +tide, which runs stronger here than in any other part of the +Frozen Strait. The night was fine, but extremely dark, so that +after ten o'clock we could not distinguish where the land lay, and +the compasses could not be depended on. After an ineffectual +attempt to push through the ice towards the middle of the Strait, +in order to avoid the danger of being entangled among the numerous +islands lying off this shore, we were literally obliged to let the +ship take her chance, keeping the lead going and the anchors in +readiness. + +The Hecla having got clear of the ice the preceding evening, and +narrowly escaped an adventure similar to that which we had +experienced, rejoined us early in the morning, when Captain Lyon +returned to her to prepare a boat for his intended excursion. We +then stood in under all sail for the land, and at eleven A.M. +Captain Lyon left the Hecla, while the ships tacked off and on to +await his return. At nine P.M. Captain Lyon returned, acquainting +me that he had met with a small bay having no stream of tide, and +being at present clear of ice, he thought it might answer our +purpose, but he wished me to see it before the ships were taken +in. + +A boat from each ship being prepared, Captain Lyon and myself left +the cove at three P.M. to proceed on the proposed examination. We +separated at Point Cheyne, Captain Lyon having pointed out to me +the broad eastern channel from which the tide appeared to come, +and which if was my intention to examine, while he directed his +attention to the smaller passage he had described as leading to +the northward. It was agreed that we should return to the ships +with as little delay as was consistent with the object we had in +view, namely, to ascertain through which of the two channels it +was expedient or practicable to bring the ships. + +The breeze moderated soon after our landing, and a fine clear +night succeeded. At four in the morning Mr. Ross and myself +ascended the nearest hill, in the hope of being able to satisfy +ourselves respecting the existence of a passage for the ships in +at least one direction. I therefore directed the tents to be +struck, and everything to be in readiness for moving on our +return. On reaching the summit of the first hill, however, we +found, as is not unfrequently the case, that our view was but +little improved, and that no prospect could be obtained to the +northward without ascending the higher hill seen the preceding +evening, which we now found still several miles beyond us. While +preparing for this, I felt so much indisposed, that, being +apprehensive of laying myself up at a time when I could least +afford to do so, I determined to intrust the proposed service to +Mr. Ross, in whose zeal and ability to accomplish it I felt the +utmost confidence. Mr. Ross and his party accordingly set out for +the hill at six A.M. On his return in the evening Mr. Ross +reported that, having reached a commanding hill, he found himself +overlooking a sea of considerable extent to the eastward, and +washing the foot of the hill on which he stood. This sea appeared +to have some islands scattered about it, and was much encumbered +with ice. To the southeastward there seemed to be several openings +between islands, of which the land we stood then upon appeared to +form one, the sea sweeping round to the northward and westward, as +if to join the strait discovered by Captain Lyon. Mr. Ross +described the country over which he passed as much intersected by +lakes, some of them not less than two or three miles in length, +and having in their neighbourhood abundance of grass, moss, and +other fine feeding for the deer. The report of Mr. Ross, +accompanied by an eye-sketch made upon the spot, left no doubt of +the existence of an outlet to the eastward, and enabled me to +decide without hesitation upon attempting the passage of the +narrows with the ships, leaving our subsequent route to be +determined on according to the report of Captain Lyon. + +Piles of stones and the remains of Esquimaux habitations were +everywhere to be seen, and Mr. Ross met with their marks even on +the highest hills; but none appeared of recent date. The reindeer +were here very numerous. Mr. Ross saw above fifty of them in the +course of his walk, and several others were met with near the +tents. A large one was shot by one of the men, who struck the +animal; as he lay on the ground, a blow on the head with the butt +end of his piece, and, leaving him for dead, ran towards the tents +for a knife to bleed and skin him; when the deer very composedly +got on his legs, swam across a lake, and finally escaped. A small +fawn was the only one killed. Three black whales and a few seals +were playing about near the beach. + +Our people being somewhat fatigued with walking, were allowed to +rest till half past one in the morning of the 29th, when, it being +high water, the tents were struck and the boat loaded. I found +that Captain Lyon had returned on board the preceding evening, +having accomplished his object in a shorter time than was +expected. + +That no time might be lost in running the ships through the +narrows, I directed three boats from each to be prepared, for the +purpose of sounding every part of this intricate, and, as yet, +unknown passage, which I named after Captain THOMAS HURD, of the +royal navy, hydrographer to the admiralty. Giving to the officer +commanding each boat a certain portion to accomplish, I reserved +for my own examination the narrowest part of the channel; and at +thirty minutes past one P.M., as soon as the flood tide began to +slacken, we left the ships and continued our work till late at +night, when, having received the reports of the officers, and made +out a plan of the channel for each ship, I directed everything to +be in readiness for weighing at the last quarter of the ebb on the +following morning. Much as I lamented this delay, at a period of +the season when every moment was precious, it will not appear to +have been unnecessary, when it is considered that the channel +through which the ships were to be carried did not in some places +exceed a mile in breadth, with half of that space encumbered with +heavy masses of ice, and with an _ebb_ tide of six knots running +through it. + +At fifteen minutes past three P.M. on the 30th, a light air of +wind springing up from the eastward, we weighed, and, having +warped out by kedges till we had cleared the shoal-point of the +cove, made sail for the channel, and, with the assistance of the +boats, got the Fury into the fair set of the tide before it made +very strong to the eastward. At a quarter before seven, when in +the narrowest part, which is abreast of a bold headland on the +south shore, where the tide was now driving the ice along at the +rate of five or six knots, the wind came in a sudden gust from the +southwest, scarcely allowing us to reduce and trim our sails in +time to keep the ship off the north shore, which is not so safe as +the other. By carrying a heavy press of canvass, however, we +succeeded in forcing through the ice, but the Fury was twice +turned completely round by eddies, and her sails brought aback +against the helm; in consequence of which she gathered such fresh +sternway against several heavy floe-pieces, that I apprehended +some serious injury to the stern-post and rudder, if not to the +whole frame of the ship. The Hecla got through the narrows soon +after us; but Captain Lyon, wishing to bring away the flags and +staves set up as marks, had sent his little boat away for that +purpose during the continuance of the calm weather. When the +breeze suddenly came on she was still absent, and, being obliged +to wait for some time to pick her up, the Hecla was about dusk +separated several miles from us. + +I was sorry to perceive, on the morning of the 1st of September, +that the appearance of the ice was by no means favourable to our +object of sailing to the northward, along the Sturges Bourne +Islands; but at ten A.M., the edge being rather more slack, we +made all sail, with a very light air of southerly wind, and the +weather clear, warm, and pleasant. We were at noon in lat. 66° 03' +35", and in long. 83° 33' 15", in which situation a great deal of +land was in sight to the northward, though apparently much broken +in some places. From N.E. round to S.S.E. there was still nothing +to be seen but one wide sea uninterruptedly covered with ice as +far as the eye could reach. + +At forty-five minutes past one P.M. we had come to the end of the +clear water, and prepared to shorten sail, to await some +alteration in our favour. At this time the weather was so warm +that we had just exposed a thermometer to the sun to ascertain the +temperature of its rays, which could not have been less than 70° +or 80°, when a thick fog, which had for some hours been curling +over the hills of Vansittart Island, suddenly came on, creating so +immediate and extreme a change, that I do not remember to have +ever experienced a more chilling sensation. As we could no longer +see a hundred yards around us in any direction, nothing was to be +done but to make the ships fast to the largest piece of ice we +could find, which we accordingly did at two P.M., in one hundred +and fifty-eight fathoms. Just before dark the fog cleared away for +a few minutes, when, perceiving that the wind, which was now +increasing, was likely to drift us too near the islands, we took +advantage of the clear interval to run a mile farther from the +land for the night, where we again made fast to a large floe-piece +in two hundred fathoms. + +The wind, drawing round to the northward and westward, on the +morning of the 2d, increased to a fresh gale, which continued to +blow during the night, notwithstanding which, I was in hopes that +the immense size of the floe to which the ships were attached +would enable us to retain our station tolerably. It was +mortifying, therefore, to find, on the morning of the 2d, that we +had drifted more than I remember ever to have done before in the +same time under any circumstances. It was remarkable, also, that +we had not been set exactly to leeward, but past Baffin Island +towards two remarkable hills on Southampton Island, from which we +were at noon not more than seven or eight leagues distant. Thus, +after a laborious investigation which occupied one month, we had, +by a concurrence of unavoidable circumstances, returned to nearly +the same spot on which we had been on the 6th of August. To +consider what might have been effected in this interval, which +included the very best part of the navigable season, had we been +previously aware of the position and extent of the American +Continent about this meridian, is in itself certainly unavailing; +but it may serve to show the value of even the smallest +geographical information in seas where not an hour must be thrown +away or unprofitably employed. + +In the afternoon an attempt was made to move, for the mere sake, +it must be confessed, of moving and keeping the people on the +alert, rather than with the slightest prospect of gaining any +ground; but, by the time that we had laid out the hawsers, the +small hole of water that had appeared again closed, and we were +obliged to remain as before. + +At four A.M. on the 5th, we cast off and made sail for the land, +with a fresh breeze from the southeast. The ice was closely +packed, against the land near the passage I had intended to try, +and as it appeared slack to the eastward, I determined to run +between the southeast point of Baffin Island and the smaller +islands lying off it. The wind drawing more to the eastward as we +approached the channel, we had several tacks to make in getting +through, but carried a good depth of water on each side, though +its breadth does not exceed three quarters of a mile. As we now +advanced to the northward, we found less and less obstruction, the +main body of the ice having been carried to the southward and +eastward by the late gale, which had in so extraordinary a manner +drifted us in the same direction. This was one of the opportunities +I have before described as the most favourable that ever occur for +making progress in these seas. We had, therefore, a fine run during +the day along the east side of Sturges Bourne Islands; for, having +found the passages between them still choked with ice, we were +obliged to run to the northward with the hope of attaining our +present object, till it was time to look out for an anchorage. +Having first sent the boats to sound, we hauled into a small +bay, where we anchored at dusk in seventeen fathoms, good +holding-ground, though the bottom was so irregular that we had +from five to thirteen close upon our quarter. + +We had now once more approached a part of the coast, of which the +thorough and satisfactory examination could not possibly be +carried on in the ships, without incurring constant and, perhaps, +useless risk, and a certain and serious loss of time. I +determined, therefore, to proceed at once upon this service in two +boats, one from each ship. Having communicated my intentions to +Captain Lyon, and requested him to move the ships, when +practicable, into some more secure situation, I left the Fury, +accompanied by Mr. Ross and Mr. Sherer, taking with us our tents, +blankets, and stove, together with four days' provisions and fuel. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +A thick fog unfortunately coming on just before we left the ships, +prevented us from making choice of any part of the land which +might be the most likely to afford a passage to the northward and +westward. We could only, therefore, direct our course northerly, +with tolerable certainty, by a compass bearing previously taken on +board, and by occasionally obtaining an indistinct glimpse of the +land through the fog. Having rowed four miles, we came to a high +point, round which we turned rather to the westward, and then +landed a little beyond it. + +The tents were struck at thirty minutes past three A.M. on the 7th +and our course directed, up the inlet, the weather being calm and +tolerably clear. At three miles and a quarter we passed on our +starboard hand a point of land, which, from the bright colour of +the rocks, composed chiefly of feldspar, obtained the name of _Red +Point_. + +Opposite to Red Point was a small opening, which we next proposed +to examine. We had not, however, advanced a mile within the +entrance when the boats grounded, the water becoming more and more +shoal within. As it was plain that no passage could here be found +for the ships, which alone it was my present object to discover, I +did not choose to wait for the flowing of the tide to enable us +farther to explore this place, but determined to prosecute our +examination of the other parts of the coast without delay. There +were here a great number of stones placed in an upright position +in every conspicuous spot, many of them looking like men at a +distance. These marks are generally placed without regard to +regularity, but there were here several lines of them about fifty +yards in length, the stones being four or five yards apart, and +each having a smaller one placed on its top. Having rowed out of +the inlet, we landed at six P.M. in a little bay just outside of +the last night's sleeping-place, pitching the tents on a fine +shingly beach, which was the kind of ground we usually looked out +for towards the conclusion of the day, as affording the softest +bed, consistently with dryness, that nature supplies in this +country. Of such a convenience the men were not sorry to avail +themselves, having rowed above thirty miles since the morning. + +The boats were launched at daylight on the 8th, and we soon came +to a much more promising opening on the same shore, about a mile +wide at the entrance, and leading directly to the westward. After +rowing four miles in that direction, we arrived at the mouth of a +bay from three to five miles wide, out of which there did not +appear the least chance of discovering an outlet. As nothing, +however, but rowing round the bay would satisfactorily determine +this, we were proceeding to do so, when we observed in the +northern corner something like a low point overlapping the high +land at the back. Towards this spot we steered, as the readiest +way of completing the circuit of the bay, and half a mile short of +it landed to breakfast. + +In the mean time I sent Mr. Ross to one hill, and ascended another +myself, expecting to save the time and trouble of rowing into the +nook. I was not a little astonished to find, from my own and Mr. +Ross's observations, that there was on the other side of the point +a broad and apparently navigable channel, through which the tide +was setting to the northward, at the rate of three or four miles +an hour. I am thus minute in the discovery of this channel, which +afterward promised to be of no small importance, to show how +nearly such a place may be approached without the slightest +suspicion being entertained of its existence, and the consequent +necessity of _close_ examination wherever a passage is to be +sought for. + +We continued our examination, and I despatched Mr. Sherer to the +ships for a fresh supply of provisions. On his return on the 10th +we proceeded to the westward. In running along the coast with a +fresh and favourable breeze, we observed three persons standing on +a hill, and, as we continued our course, they followed us at full +speed along the rocks. Having sailed into a small sheltered bay, I +went up, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan, to meet them on the hills +above us. In sailing along the shore we had heard them call out +loudly to us, and observed them frequently lift something which +they held in their hands; but, on coming up to them, they remained +so perfectly mute and motionless, that, accustomed as we had been +to the noisy importunities of their more sophisticated brethren, +we could scarcely believe them to be Esquimaux. There was, +besides, a degree of lankness in the faces of the two men, the +very reverse of the plump, round, oily cheeks of those we had +before seen. Their countenances at the time impressed me with the +idea of Indian rather than of Esquimaux features; but this variety +of physiognomy we afterward found not to be uncommon among these +people. The men appeared about forty and twenty-two years of age, +and were accompanied by a good-looking and good-humoured boy of +nine or ten. They each held in their hand a sealskin case or +quiver, containing a bow and three or four arrows, with a set of +which they willingly parted, on being presented with a knife in +exchange. The first looks with which they received us betrayed a +mixture of stupidity and apprehension, but both wore off in a few +minutes on our making them understand that we wished to go to +their habitations. With this request they complied without +hesitation, tripping along before us for above two miles over very +rough ground, and crossing one or two considerable streams running +from a lake into the sea. This they performed with so much +quickness that we could with difficulty keep up with them, though +they good-naturedly stopped now and then till we overtook them. We +were met on our way by two women, from twenty to twenty-five years +of age, having each a child at her back; they too accompanied us +to their tent, which was situated on a high part of the coast +overlooking the sea. It consisted of a rude circular wall of loose +stones, from six to eight feet in diameter and three in height, in +the centre of which stood an upright pole, made of several pieces +of fir-wood lashed together by thongs, and serving as a support to +the deerskins that formed the top covering. Soon after our arrival +we were joined by a good-looking, modest girl of about eight, and +a boy five years old. Of these nine persons, which were all we now +saw, only the elder man and two of the children belonged to this +tent, the habitations of the others being a little more inland. +The faces of the women were round, plump, tattooed, and, in short, +completely Esquimaux. The _kayak_ or canoe belonging to this +establishment was carefully laid on the rocks close to the +seaside, with the paddle and the man's mittens in readiness beside +it. The timbers were entirely of wood, and covered, as usual, with +sealskin. Its length was nineteen feet seven inches, and its +extreme breadth two feet; it was raised a little at each end, and +the rim or gunwale of the circular hole in the middle was high, +and made of whalebone. A handsome sealskin was smoothly laid +within as a seat, and the whole was sewn and put together with +great neatness. The paddle was double, made of fir, and the ends +of the blades tipped with bone, to prevent splitting. + +The fireplace in the tent consisted of three rough stones +carelessly placed on end against one side, and they had several +pots of _lapis ollaris_ for culinary purposes. These people seemed +to us altogether more cleanly than any Esquimaux we had before +seen, both in their persons and in the interior of their tent, in +neither of which could we discover much of that rancid and pungent +smell which is in general so offensive to Europeans. One instance +of their cleanliness which now occurred, deserves, perhaps, to be +noticed, both because this is justly considered rather a rare +quality among Esquimaux, as well as to show in what way they do +sometimes exercise it. When leaving the tent to return to our +boats, I desired one of the seamen to tie the articles we had +purchased into a single bundle, for the convenience of carrying +them; but the elder of the two male Esquimaux, who watched the man +thus employed, would not permit it to be done without excluding a +pot, which, as he explained by wiping the lampblack off with one +of his fingers, would soil a clean sealskin jacket that formed +part of the bundle. + +Among the few domestic utensils we saw in the tent was the woman's +knife of the Greenlanders described by Crantz, and resembling, in +its semicircular shape, that used by shoemakers in England. The +most interesting article, however, was a kind of bowl, exactly +similar to that obtained by Captain Lyon from the natives of +Hudson's Strait, being hollowed out of the root of the musk-ox's +horn. As soon as I took the cup in my hand, the boy who was our +first companion, and had since been our constant attendant, +pronounced the word _oomingmuk_, thus affording an additional +confirmation to that obtained on the former voyage, of the musk-ox +being the animal described by the natives of the west coast of +Greenland as having occasionally, though rarely, been seen in that +country. + +As soon as the Esquimaux became a little more familiar with us, +they repeatedly asked for _sowik_ (iron), in answer to which we +gave them to understand that they must accompany us to our boats if +they wished to obtain any of this precious article. Accordingly, +the whole group set off with us on our return, the males keeping up +with us, and the women a short distance behind. The whole of the +children carried bundles of the branches of ground willow, which +we had just before seen them bring in for their own use, and +which they seemed to consider an article of barter that might be +acceptable to us. As we returned I noticed a quantity of the _ledum +palustre_, and, having plucked some of it, gave it to the boy to +carry; after which, though he very much disliked its smell, he +gathered every root of it that we came to, and deposited it at our +tents. This lad was uncommonly quick and clever in comprehending +our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree of good-humour and +docility which, on our short acquaintance, made him a great +favourite among us. + +We had hitherto been much pleased with our new acquaintance, +who were certainly a good-humoured, decent sort of people. We +therefore loaded them with presents, and endeavoured to amuse them +by showing them the manner of rowing our boats, which were hauled +up on the beach. While the men and children were occupied in +observing this, the women were no less busily employed, near the +tents, in pilfering and conveying into their boots some of our +cups, spoons, and other small articles, such as they could +conveniently secrete. This they accomplished with so much +dexterity, that no suspicion would have been excited of their +dishonesty had not Mr. Sherer fortunately missed a cup which was +required for supper. A general search being instituted in +consequence, and the cargo of the women's boots brought back to +our tents, I directed all our presents to be likewise taken from +the two offenders; and, dismissing the whole party with great +appearance of indignation, thus put an end, for the present, to +our communication with these people. + +We spent the two next days in exploring a creek which we called +CULGRUFF, and another on the opposite or eastern shore, which +received the name of NORMAN'S CREEK, and returned to the Hecla on +the evening of the 14th. + +I learned from Captain Lyon that the Hecla had just anchored at +her present station, the Fury still remaining at the former place, +into which the ice had lately come so thick as to require the +assistance of all hands from both ships to warp and tow the Hecla +out. Proceeding with a fresh boat's crew towards the Fury, which +we found close beset by thick and heavy ice, we succeeded, after +much difficulty, in hauling the boat through it, and arrived on +board at ten P.M. + +As soon as the tide would serve in the offing on the morning of +the 15th, we weighed, and, by means of warping and towing, in +which we were assisted by Captain Lyon's boats, succeeded in +joining the Hecla at her anchorage at three P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +Again leaving the ships on the 15th, we rowed before sunset +between six and seven miles along the high southwestern land, +passing what appeared a small harbour, with an island near the +middle of the entrance, and landed on a shingly beach near a small +bay or creek, extending three quarters of a mile to the W.N.W., +and then terminating in a deep, broad valley. We left the shore at +half past four A.M. on the 16th, and in an hour's sailing, with a +fresh northwest wind, came to some loose ice, through which we +continued to make our way till eleven o'clock, when it became so +close that a passage could no longer be found in any direction. +There was also so much young ice in every small interval between +the loose masses, that the boats were much cut about the +water-line in endeavouring to force through it. In order, +therefore, to avoid the risk of being altogether driven from the +shore, I determined to attempt a passage into the bay, which was +three quarters of a mile distant; and in this, after two hours' +labour, we at length succeeded. Finding that the ice was likely to +prove an obstacle of which we could not calculate the extent or +continuance, we began at once to reduce our daily expenditure of +provisions, in order to meet any contingency. + +Ascending the hill at daylight on the 17th, we were much +disappointed in finding that, though the ice continued to drive a +little to the S.E., it was even more compact than before, the +loose masses through which we had sailed the preceding day being +now closely set together. + +As soon as it was light enough on the 18th to make out the +situation of the ice, which had now drifted considerably to the +southward, we left the bay with a fresh and favourable breeze, and +at a quarter past eight A.M., after a quick run through "sailing +ice," landed to breakfast on the southeast point of this shore, +which afterward received the name CAPE MARTINEAU. Proceeding from +hence with a strong breeze and a considerable sea ahead, but the +flood tide still running slowly with us to the N.W., we rowed +several miles close along the shore, and entered at dusk a little +cove, where the tents were pitched and the boats moored for the +night. + +The night being cold, clear, and nearly calm, a quantity of +"bay-ice," half an inch in thickness, had, on the morning of the +19th, formed in the cove, and for some distance outside of it, +which again cut the boats' planks very much, besides occasioning +great loss of time in getting through it. This symptom of +approaching winter, which had now for the first time occurred to +us, rendered it expedient in future to select the most open +beaches for our resting-places at night. After tracing every bend +of the shore which here occurred, we landed at the point called by +Captain Lyon POINT FARHILL, and, ascending the hill to take +angles, obtained a view of Gore Bay, easily recognising every +other feature of the lands discovered by Captain Lyon. A mile or +two of coast was now all that remained to be examined, in order to +determine the connexion of Gore Bay with the rest of the land +recently explored. Proceeding, therefore, as soon as our +observations were finished, we soon after entered the bay, and in +the course of an hour had satisfied ourselves on this point. + +The ice remained closely packed on the 21st, as far as we could +see along shore, so that we were still detained in the same place. +Some snow which fell in the course of the preceding night, lightly +powdering the land, had entirely disappeared before evening, +except in places having a northern aspect, where it now +permanently remained for the winter. + +On the morning of the 22d the ice was not only as close as ever, +but had forced its way much higher up towards Gore Bay. A party +was therefore sent out to endeavour to procure game farther +inland; and another employed in gathering ground-willow, which was +here abundant and in good condition for fuel. Two bears, a female +and her cub, being probably attracted by the smell of our cooking, +came towards the tents upon the ice, but, upon hearing our voices, +set off in the opposite direction. A good deal of snow fell in +partial showers in the course of the day; it was nearly of that +fine kind which usually falls during the winter of these regions, +but we had flake snow and even light rain some days after this. +The snow, however, now remained undissolved upon the land in all +situations. Our hunting party returned late in the evening without +success, having merely seen a number of reindeer, which the want +of cover prevented their approaching. Seven days out of the nine +for which we were victualled having now elapsed, a party was +selected for walking over to the ships on the following day, +should the ice still continue in its present state. + +The ice continuing in the same state, we commenced our work at +break of day on the 24th, and in three journeys had carried all +the lighter part of our baggage over land by eleven o'clock. All +hands then returned for the two boats, across the gunwales of +which the masts and oars were lashed for lifting them, the ground +not allowing us to drag them except for a short space here and +there. By half past one the first boat had been carried over, and, +by the unwearied exertions of the officers and men, we had the +satisfaction of launching the second before four o'clock, the +distance being a mile and a half, and chiefly over rocky and +uneven ground. As soon as we had dined, the boats were reloaded; +and at five o'clock we left the shore. A quantity of ice was still +aground upon the shoals and islets off Cape Martineau, through +which, however, we fortunately found a passage before dark, when, +having cleared every obstacle, we sailed in an open sea and with a +fresh breeze to the northward. Keeping close along the shore to +avoid missing the ships in the dark, our first musket was +immediately answered by a blue-light; and, being guided by the +lights now shown by the ships, we arrived at nine P.M., where we +found that our late detention had excited some alarm for our +safety. + +On the 1st of October some small rain fell, which, immediately +freezing, made the decks and ropes as smooth and slippery as if +coated with glass; the thermometer had for several days past +permanently fallen below the freezing point, and sometimes as low +as 20° at night; which change, together with the altered +appearance of the land, and the rapid formation of young ice near +the shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach of winter. +The commencement of this dreary season in these regions may, +indeed, be fairly dated from the time when the earth no longer +receives and radiates heat enough to melt the snow which falls +upon it. When the land is once covered with this substance, so +little calculated to favour the absorption of heat, the frigorific +process seems to be carried on with increased vigour, defining +very clearly the change from summer to winter, with little or no +immediate interval to which the name of autumn can be distinctly +assigned. + +We passed Cape Edwards on the 6th; but on the 8th the formation of +young ice upon the surface of the water began most decidedly to +put a stop to the navigation of these seas, and warned us that the +season of active operations was nearly at an end. + +When to the ordinary difficulties which the navigation of the +Polar Seas presents were superadded the disadvantages of a +temperature at or near _zero_, its necessary concomitant the young +ice, and twelve hours of darkness daily, it was impossible any +longer to entertain a doubt of the expediency of immediately +placing the ships in the best security that could be found for +them during the winter, rather than run the risk of being +permanently detached from the land by an endeavour to regain the +continent. We were in hopes of receiving effectual shelter from +the numerous grounded masses, but could only find berths within +one of them in five to six fathoms water. We now, for the first +time, _walked_ on board the ships; and, before night, had them +moved into their places, by sawing a canal for two or three +hundred yards through the ice. The average thickness of the new +floe was already three inches and a quarter; but being in some +places much less, several officers and men fell in, and, from the +difficulty of getting a firm place to rest on, narrowly escaped a +more serious inconvenience than a thorough wetting. The whole +sheet of ice, even in those parts which easily bore a man's +weight, had a waving motion under the feet, like that of leather +or any other tough flexible substance set afloat, a property which +is, I believe, peculiar to salt-water ice. + +In reviewing the events of this our first season of navigation, and +considering what progress we had made towards the accomplishment of +our main object, it was impossible, however trifling that progress +might appear upon the chart, not to experience considerable +satisfaction. Small as our actual advance had been towards +Behring's Strait, the extent of coast newly discovered and minutely +explored in pursuit of our object, in the course of the last eight +weeks, amounted to more than two hundred leagues, nearly half of +which belonged to the Continent of North America. This service, +notwithstanding our constant exposure to the risks which intricate, +shoal, and unknown channels, a sea loaded with ice, and a rapid +tide concurred in presenting, had providentially been effected +without injury to the ships, or suffering to the officers and men; +and we had now once more met with tolerable security for the +season. Above all, however, I derived the most sincere satisfaction +from a conviction of having left no part of the coast from Repulse +Bay eastward in a state of doubt as to its connexion with the +continent. And as the mainland now in sight from the hills extended +no farther to the eastward than about a N.N.E. bearing, we ventured +to indulge a sanguine hope of our being very near the northeastern +boundary of America, and that the early part of the next season +would find us employing our best efforts in pushing along its +northern shores. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +Our operations at sea being now at an end for the season, my chief +attention was directed to the security of the ships, and to the +various internal arrangements which experience suggested as +necessary for the preservation of cleanliness, health, and comfort +during the winter, as well as for the economical expenditure of +provisions, fuel, and other stores. + +The situation which circumstances obliged us to put up with for +our winter-quarters was by no means as secure as could have been +wished. The bay, though as fine a roadstead as could have been +desired if situated in a more temperate climate, was still only a +roadstead; and, being entirely open to the south, was exposed to a +pressure from the ice in that direction, unless the solid floe now +about to be formed round the ships should shortly become +sufficient to guard them from external injury. There was some +reason, however, to doubt the efficacy of this protection; for, as +the spring-tides approached, the numerous grounded masses around +the shores of the bay began to evince symptoms of instability, one +or two having fallen over, and others turned round; so that these +masses might be looked upon rather as dangerous neighbours, likely +to create a premature disruption of the ice, than as the means of +security, which, in seas not subject to any considerable rise of +tide, they had so often proved to us on former occasions. To +these circumstances was added our uncertainty whether very high +tides during the winter might not crack the ice, thereby exposing +the ships to the double danger of being "nipped" about their +water-line, and of being drifted out of the bay by northerly gales. +That which was, however, perhaps the most to be apprehended, was +the possibility of the ships being forced into shoal water, without +detaching themselves from the mass of ice cemented to their bends, +the weight of which, hanging upon the sides of a ship left aground +by the tide, could not but produce very serious injury. + +About the time of our arrival in the bay, when the thermometer had +fallen nearly to _zero_, the condensation of vapour upon the beams +of the lower deck, and in the cabins near the hatchways, commenced +just as it had done at a similar temperature before. To remedy +this evil, no time was lost in lighting a fire in the warming-stove +upon the orlop-deck, everything being previously moved from its +neighbourhood that was likely to create danger. The iron tanks in +the main hatchway were laid bare on the top, and the interstices +between them filled with sand, to form a secure platform in front +of the fire; and the sailroom, bulkheads, and stancheons covered +with sheet copper. Four steady men, of whom one was a petty +officer, were appointed to attend the fire in regular watches, +being made responsible for the due expenditure of the fuel, and +for the safety of everything about the stove. They had likewise +particular charge of the fire-engine, buckets, and two tanks of +water, all of which were kept in the hatchway in constant readiness +in case of accidents. In addition to these precautions, some +general regulations were established for stationing the officers +and men in the event of fire; and a hole was directed to be kept +open in the ice alongside each ship, to ensure at all times a +sufficient supply of water. In twelve hours after lighting the +stove not a drop of moisture remained. + +The regulations for the maintenance of due cleanliness among the +ships' companies were principally the same as those established on +the preceding voyage. As a source of rational amusement to the +men, soon after our arrival I proposed to Captain Lyon and the +officers of both ships once more to set on foot a series of +theatrical entertainments, from which so much benefit in this way +had, on a former occasion, been derived. This proposal was +immediately and unanimously acquiesced in; Captain Lyon obligingly +undertook to be our, manager, and, some preparation having been +made for this purpose previous to leaving England, everything was +soon arranged for performing a play on board the Fury once a +fortnight. + +To furnish rational and useful occupation to the men on the other +evenings, a school was also established for the instruction of +such of the men as were willing to take advantage of this +opportunity of learning to read and write, or of improving in +those acquirements. + +While these internal arrangements were making, the interests of +science were not neglected. A day or two after our arrival, Mr. +Fisher and myself selected a spot for the portable observatory, +which was immediately erected for the purpose of making magnetic +observations; and, as soon as the carpenters could be spared from +the necessary duties of the ships, a house was built for the +reception of the instruments requisite in conducting the other +observations and experiments. + +Soon after our arrival here, Captain Lyon expressed a wish that +his officers and men, with himself, should attend divine service +on board the Fury during the continuance of the ships in +winter-quarters. This arrangement was accordingly made, and we +formed one congregation for the rest of the winter. Our lower deck +afforded abundance of accommodation in this respect; some psalm +tunes, which had been purposely set upon an organ, were played at +the proper intervals of the service, and our little church formed +a pleasing and interesting scene to such as are disposed to be +interested by scenes of this nature. + +I have before mentioned the myriads of small shrimps (_cancer +nugax_) which for some weeks past had been observed near the +surface of the sea. These insects were found to be still as +numerous as ever in any hole we made in the ice; and such was the +extreme avidity with which they immediately seized upon any meat +put overboard, to thaw or soak for the sake of freshness, that +Captain Lyon to-day sent me a goose to look at, belonging to the +officers of the Hecla, that had been thus deposited within their +reach only eight and forty hours, and from which they had eaten +every ounce of meat, leaving only a skeleton most delicately +cleaned. Our men had before remarked that their meat suffered +unusual loss of substance by soaking, but did not know to what +cause to attribute the deficiency. We took advantage, however, of +the hunger of these depredators to procure complete skeletons of +small animals, for preservation as anatomical specimens, enclosing +them in a net or bag with holes, to which the shrimps could have +access, but which prevented the loss of any of the limbs, should +the cartilage of the joints be eaten. For want of this latter +precaution some specimens were at first rendered imperfect. + +A pair of snow-boots were now issued _gratis_ to each individual +in the expedition, being part of a stock of extra warm clothing +liberally furnished by government, to be supplied to the officers +and men at my discretion, as occasion should require. These boots +were made of strong drab cloth, with thick soles of cork, the +slowly conducting property of which substance, together with their +large size, allowing a free circulation to the blood, afforded the +utmost comfort that could be desired. Boots or shoes of _leather_ +never retain the warmth long, under circumstances of very severe +exposure. + +The wind veering to the S.E. on the 24th and 25th, the thermometer +gradually rose to +23°. I may possibly incur the charge of +affectation in stating that this temperature was much too high to +be agreeable to us; but it is nevertheless the fact, that +everybody felt and complained of the change. We had often before +remarked, that considerable alterations in the temperature of the +atmosphere are as sensibly felt by the human frame at a very low +part of the scale, as in the higher. The difference consists only +in this, that a change from -40° upward to about _zero_ is usually +a very welcome one, while from _zero_ to the freezing point, as in +the instance just alluded to, it becomes, to persons in our +situation, rather an inconvenience than otherwise. This may be +more readily imagined by considering that our clothing, bedding, +fires, and other precautions against the severity of the climate +having been once adapted to a low degree of cold, an increase of +temperature renders them oppressive and inconvenient; while any +reduction (of the first two, at least) is impracticable with +safety. To this must be added, that at this temperature the snow +becomes too soft for convenient walking, and the accumulation of +ice in the crevices and linings of the officers' cabins is +converted into a source of extreme annoyance, which, while it +continues solid, is never experienced. It is true that these +inconveniences occur in a much greater degree in the spring; but +being then hailed as the harbingers of the return of permanent +warmth, it is easy to obviate some, and would be hard to complain +of any of them. + +_Nov. 6._--For several days about this period the weather +continued remarkably mild, the thermometer generally rising as +high as from +20° to +28° in the course of the day, from the 6th +to the 16th. Most of our necessary arrangements for the security +of the ships and stores during the winter being now completed, the +people were employed in what they called "rigging the theatre," +and on the evening of the 9th the officers performed the play of +the "Rivals," to the infinite amusement of both ships' companies. + +On the 1st of December there was a space of many miles in which +none of the "old ice" was visible. The sea was here for the most +part covered with a very thin sheet of "young" ice, probably the +formation of a single day, since the westerly wind had driven the +'floes' off the land. The whole of this was in motion with the +tide, which, breaking the thin floes, left several spaces of clear +water. It was observable that, though a considerable frost-smoke +arose from the young ice, it was not so dense as that from the +clear water, immediately over every pool of which a little thick +cloud floated, corresponding as well in size as in situation with +the pond from whence it issued. A number of dovekies were swimming +about the point; and it being desirable, if possible, to obtain +some of them for the sake of ascertaining their plumage at this +season, we hauled the small boat over and launched her. Mr. Ross +succeeded in killing one of the birds, which was preserved as a +specimen, but it was with great difficulty that the boat avoided +being carried away from the shore by the young ice. I was, on this +account, afraid of repeating the attempt during the rest of the +winter. One grouse was seen on shore; it appeared entirely white, +except having its tail black near the tip. + +I was this day under the necessity of closing in my stern +dead-lights, and fixing cork shutters between the double +window-frames of my cabin, the temperature having lately fallen +rather low at night; in consequence of which, one of the +chronometers had stopped on the 26th of November. We had before +this time banked the snow up against the sides; but it was now +thrown higher, and its thickness at the bottom increased to about +four feet. Besides this, a bed of snow, three feet deep, was +subsequently laid on the deck over my cabin, and also on the +forecastle over the sick-bay, to assist in retaining the warmth in +those parts of the ship; an office which it seemed to perform very +effectually. It was impossible, however, as the cold increased, to +keep up a tolerably comfortable temperature in the cabin if the +fire was suffered to go out for several hours: for instance, the +night after the above arrangements had been made, the fire was out +for only six hours; and the consequence was, that the thermometer +fell to 27°, and could be got no higher on the following day, in +the after part of the cabin, though only nine feet from the stove, +than 33°. This was, indeed, a most inclement day, the temperature +of the atmosphere having for the first time fallen to -27°, +accompanied by a fresh wind from the northward and westward. + +A great squeezing of the young floes took place at the S.E. point +of the island on the 12th. The noise it makes when heard at a +distance very much resembles that of a heavy wagon labouring over +a deep gravelly road; but, when a nearer approach is made, it is +more like the growling of wild animals, for which it was in one or +two instances mistaken. It was, however, rather useful than +otherwise, to encourage the belief that bears were abroad, as, +without some such idea, people are apt to become careless about +going armed. + +The thermometer rising to -5° in the course of the 17th, the +weather appeared warm to our feelings. It proved favourable also +for another play, which had been fixed for this night, and the +"Poor Gentleman" was performed by the officers in so admirable and +feeling a manner as to excite uncommon interest among the men, and +to convince me more than ever of the utility of our theatrical +amusements. The 18th was a remarkably clear day, without any of +that cloudiness which usually hung about the southern horizon. The +sun was therefore clearly visible at noon, when such was its oval +shape that its horizontal diameter exceeded the vertical by 4' +07". We had light in the cabin for reading and writing for three +hours and a quarter without candles, and about five hours for +convenient walking. + +On the evening of the 24th, being Christmas eve, the ships' +companies were amused by the officers performing the two farces of +"A Roland for an Oliver," and the "Mayor of Garratt." On Christmas +day, divine service on board the Fury was attended by the officers +and crews of both ships. A certain increase was also made in the +allowance of provisions, to enable the people to partake of +Christmas festivities to the utmost extent which our situation and +means would allow; and the day was marked by the most cheerful +hilarity, accompanied by the utmost regularity and good order. +Among the luxuries which our Christmas dinner afforded was that of +a joint of English roast beef, of which a few quarters had been +preserved for such occasions by rubbing the outside with salt, and +hanging it on deck covered with canvass. The low latitude in which +our last summer's navigation was performed would have rendered its +preservation doubtful without the salt. + +On the arrival of the last day of the year, it was impossible not +to experience very high gratification in observing the excellent +health and spirits enjoyed by almost every officer and man in both +ships. The only invalid in the expedition was Reid, our +carpenter's mate, and even he was at this period so much improved, +that very sanguine hopes were entertained of his continued +amendment. In consequence of the effectual manner in which the men +were clothed, particularly about the feet, not a single frostbite +had occurred that required medical assistance even for a day; and, +what was more important to us, not a scorbutic symptom had +appeared. + +To increase our ordinary issue of anti-scorbutics, liberal as it +already was, we had from the commencement of the winter adopted a +regular system of growing mustard and cress, which the superior +warmth of the ships now enabled us to do on a larger scale than +before. Each mess, both of the officers and ships' company, was +for this purpose furnished with a shallow box filled with mould, +in which a crop could generally be raised in from eight to ten +days. The quantity thus procured on board the Fury now amounted to +about fifty pounds' weight, and before the arrival of spring to +nearly one hundred pounds; and, trifling as such a supply may +appear to those who are in the habit of being more abundantly +furnished, it will not be considered to have been without its use, +when it is remembered how complete a specific for the scurvy +_fresh_ vegetable substance has invariably proved. + +With respect to the occupations which engaged our time, during +this season of unavoidable inactivity, I can add little or nothing +to my former account of the manner in which we passed the winter +at Melville Island; for the two situations were so nearly similar, +and our resources necessarily so limited in this way, that it was +not easy to produce much variety in the employment of them. It may +be imagined, and was, indeed, anticipated by ourselves, that want +of novelty was on the present occasion a disadvantage likely to +render our confinement more tedious than before; but this by no +means appeared to be the case: for the men, sufficient employment +may always be found to prevent the possibility of their being +idle; and I have already noticed the auxiliaries to which we had +recourse to assist in promoting this end; while most officers have +resources within themselves, of which scarcely any situation or +circumstances can divest them. What with reading, writing, making +and calculating observations, observing the various natural +phenomena, and taking the exercise necessary to preserve our +health, nobody, I believe, ever felt any symptoms of _ennui_ +during our continuance in winter-quarters. + +Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratification to +several among us, I may mention the musical parties we were +enabled to muster, and which assembled on stated evenings +throughout the winter, alternately in Captain Lyon's cabin and my +own. More skilful amateurs in music might well have smiled at +these our humble concerts; but it will not incline them to think +less of the science they admire, to be assured that, in these +remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished +us with the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was +capable of affording: for, independently of the mere gratification +afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, scarcely a person +in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not +more or less connected with "his far distant home." + +With our time thus occupied, our comforts so abundant, and the +prospect to seaward so enlivening, it would, indeed, have been our +own faults had we felt anything but enjoyment in our present +state, and the most lively hopes and expectations for the future. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +The first day of the new year was a very severe one in the open +air, the thermometer being down to -22°, and the wind blowing +strong from the northwest. The effect of a breeze upon the +feelings is well known to every person, even in comparatively +temperate climates, but at low temperatures it becomes painful and +almost insupportable. Thus, with the thermometer at -55°, and no +wind stirring, the hands may remain uncovered for ten minutes or a +quarter of an hour without inconvenience; while, with a fresh +breeze, and the thermometer nearly as high as _zero_, few people +can keep them exposed so long without considerable pain. + +About noon on the 2d, Captain Lyon observed a considerable body of +snow taken up by the wind and whirled round in a spiral form like +that of a water-spout, though with us the breeze was quite light +at the time. It increased gradually in size till lost behind the +southeast point. As a proof of the difficulty which the hares must +find in obtaining subsistence during the winter, these animals +were at this time in the habit of coming alongside the ships upon +the ice to pick up what they could from our rubbish-heaps. A fox +or two still entered the traps occasionally, and our gentlemen +informed me that they had always been most successful in catching +them after a southerly wind, which they attributed, with great +probability, to the smell of the ships being thus more extensively +communicated over the island. One or two of these poor creatures +had been found in the traps with their tongues almost bitten in +two. The traps made use of for catching these beautiful little +animals were formed of a small cask, having a sliding door like +that of a common mouse-trap, and were baited with oiled meat or +blubber. The whole number caught during the winter was between +eighty and ninety, of which more than seventy were taken before +the end of December. In a single trap of Captain Lyon's, no less +than fifteen were caught in the course of four hours, on the night +of the 25th of November; and the people engaged in watching the +trap remarked, that no sooner had one of these animals been taken +out, and they themselves retired a few yards, than another entered +it. So stupid, indeed, are they in this respect, that, in several +instances, those which had escaped from the ships entered, and +were recaught in the same traps as before. + +_Jan. 14._--An ermine, of which the tracks had been traced the +preceding day up the Hecla's stern, and even on board her, Captain +Lyon to-day succeeded in catching in a trap. This beautiful +creature was entirely white, except a black brush to its tail, and +a slight tinge of the usual sulphur or straw colour on the root of +the tail, and also on the fore part of the fore legs. The little +animal being put into a convenient cage, seemed soon to feel +himself perfectly at home, eating, drinking, and sleeping +without any apparent apprehension, but evincing a very decided +determination to resent a too near approach to the wires of his new +habitation. + +_Jan. 18._--At a late hour this evening the stovepipe of my cabin +caught fire, which gave us a momentary alarm, but, buckets and +water being at hand, it was soon extinguished. This accident was +occasioned by a quantity of soot collected in the stovepipe, and +yet was not altogether to be attributed to neglect in the persons +appointed to sweep the whole of them twice a week. As the cause of +it is such as is not likely to be anticipated by persons living in +temperate climates, and as the knowledge of it may be serviceable +to somebody destined for a cold one, I shall here explain it. The +smoke of coals contains a certain quantity of water in the state +of vapour. This, in temperate climates, and, indeed, till the +thermometer falls to about 10° below _zero_, is carried up the +chimney and principally diffused in the atmosphere. When the cold +becomes more intense, however, this is no longer the case; for the +vapour is then condensed into water before it can escape from the +stovepipes, within which a mass of ice is, in consequence, very +speedily formed.[*] The vapour thus arrested must necessarily also +detain a quantity of soot, which, being subsequently enclosed in +the ice as the latter accumulates, the brush generally used to +clean the pipes cannot bring it away. By any occasional increase +of temperature, either in the external air or in the fire below, +the ice sometimes thaws, pouring down a stream of water into the +fire, and bringing with it a most pungent and oppressive smell of +soot. For these reasons, as well as to avoid accidents of the +nature above alluded to, it is necessary to sweep the pipes much +more frequently than in warmer climates, and even occasionally to +thaw the ice out of them by a fire made expressly for the purpose. + +[Footnote: When the weather was not very severely cold, and a part +of the vapour escaped from the pipe of the galley-fire, the +fore-rigging was always coated with ice, from the smoke passing by +it.] + +On the morning of the 1st of February it was reported to me that a +number of strange people were seen to the westward, coming towards +the ships over the ice. On directing a glass towards them we found +them to be Esquimaux, and also discovered some appearance of huts +on shore, at the distance of two miles from the ships, in the same +direction. I immediately set out, accompanied by Captain Lyon, an +officer from each ship, and two of the men, to meet the natives, +who, to the number of five-and-twenty, were drawn up in a line +abreast, and still advanced slowly towards us. As we approached +nearer they stood still, remaining, as before, in a compact line, +from which they did not move for some time after we reached them. +Nothing could exceed their quiet and orderly behaviour on this +occasion, which presented a very striking contrast with the noisy +demeanour of the natives of Hudson's Strait. They appeared at a +distance to have arms in their hands; but what we had taken for +bows or spears proved to be only a few blades of whalebone, which +they had brought either as a peace-offering or for barter, and +which we immediately purchased for a few small nails and beads. +Some of the women, of whom there were three or four, as well as +two children, in this party, having handsome clothes on which +attracted our attention, they began, to our utter astonishment and +consternation, to strip, though the thermometer stood at 23° below +zero. We soon found, however, that there was nothing so dreadful +in this as we at first imagined, every individual among them +having on a complete double suit. The whole were of deerskin, and +looked both clean and comfortable. + +However quietly the Esquimaux had awaited our approach, and still +continued to conduct themselves, there was as little apprehension +or distrust visible in their countenances or manner as it was +possible for one strange set of persons to evince on meeting +another. As soon, therefore, as we had bought all that they had to +sell, and made them a number of valuable presents, we expressed by +signs our wish to accompany them to their huts, with which they +willingly complied, and we immediately set out together. On our +way the Esquimaux were much amused by our dogs, especially by a +large one of the Newfoundland breed, that had been taught to fetch +and carry; a qualification which seemed to excite unbounded +astonishment; and the children could scarce contain themselves for +joy when Captain Lyon gave them a stick to throw for the dog to +bring back to them. A child of five or six years old, thus amusing +itself, on such a day and in such a climate, formed by no means +the least characteristic figure of our motley group. An old and +infirm man, supported by a stick, which, indeed, he much needed, +was soon left behind us, his companions seeming to take no notice +of his infirmities, and leaving him without reluctance or apology +to find his way home at his own pace. When we had approached the +huts within a few hundred yards, three of the Esquimaux went on +before us, having previously explained that they were going to +confine their dogs, lest, being frightened at our coming, they +should run away. + +When it is remembered that these habitations were fully within +sight of the ships, and how many eyes were continually on the +look-out among us for anything that could afford variety or +interest in our present situation, our surprise may in some degree +be imagined at finding an establishment of five huts, with canoes, +sledges, dogs, and above sixty men, women, and children, as +regularly and, to all appearance, as permanently fixed as if they +had occupied the same spot for the whole winter. If the first view +of the exterior of this little village was such as to create +astonishment, that feeling was in no small degree heightened, on +accepting the invitation soon given us to enter these extraordinary +houses, in the construction of which we observed that not a single +material was used but snow and ice. After creeping through two +low passages, having each its arched doorway, we came to a small +circular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. +From this three doorways, also arched, and of larger dimensions +than the outer ones, led into as many inhabited apartments, one on +each side, and the other facing us as we entered. The interior of +these presented a scene no less novel than interesting. The women +were seated on the beds at the sides of the huts, each having her +little fireplace or lamp with all her domestic utensils about her; +the children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs, except the +female ones, which were indulged with a part of the beds, slunk out +past us in dismay. The construction of this inhabited part of the +huts was similar to that of the outer apartment, being a dome +formed by separate blocks of snow, laid with great regularity and +no small art, each being cut into the shape requisite to form a +substantial arch, from seven to eight feet high in the centre, and +having no support whatever but what this principle of building +supplied. I shall not here farther describe the peculiarities +of these curious edifices, remarking only that a cheerful and +sufficient light was admitted to them by a circular window of ice +neatly fitted into the roof of each apartment. + +We found our new acquaintance as desirous of pleasing us as we +were ready to be pleased; so that we were soon on good terms with +them all. While we were engaged in examining every part of their +huts, their whole behaviour was in the highest degree orderly, +respectful, and good-humoured. They eagerly received the various +articles that were given them, either in exchange for their own +commodities or as presents, but on no occasion importuned us for +anything, nor did the well-known sound of "pilletay" once escape +from them. We had also great reason to believe that these people +possessed, in no ordinary degree, the quality of honesty; a +quality the more desirable to us, as we had on shore, besides the +house and observatory, all our boats and other articles, which, +had they been disposed to pilfer, it would have required all our +vigilance to guard. If we dropped a glove or a handkerchief +without knowing it, they would immediately direct our attention to +it by pointing; and if the owner had left the hut before they +discovered it, would run out after him to return it. Numberless +instances of a similar kind occurred in the course of our +subsequent communication with them, some of which I shall +hereafter have an opportunity of relating. + +After remaining with them a couple of hours, and proposing to +spend the following day among them, we set out on our return to +the ships. Being desirous of trying their disposition to part with +their children, I proposed to buy a fine lad, named _Toolooak_, +for the very valuable consideration of a handsome butcher's knife. +His father, apparently understanding our meaning, joyfully +accepted the knife, and the boy ran into the hut to fetch his +mittens, which seemed to be all that he cared for in leaving his +home. He then set off with us in high spirits, and at first +assisted in drawing a sledge we had purchased to carry our things; +but as he began, by our additional signs, more clearly to +comprehend our true meaning, he gradually relaxed in his zeal to +accompany our party, and, being afterward overtaken by a number of +his companions, he took an opportunity to slink off among some +hummocks of ice, so that, when we arrived on board, Toolooak was +missing. + +On our reaching the ships, these people expressed much less +surprise and curiosity than might naturally have been expected on +their first visit, which may, perhaps, in some measure, be +attributed to their being in reality a less noisy kind of people +than most of the Esquimaux to whom we had before been accustomed. +Quiet and orderly, however, as they were disposed to be, this +first visit showed them to be as fond of merriment as their +countrymen are usually considered; for, on Captain Lyon's ordering +his fiddler up on the Hecla's deck, they danced with the men for +an hour, and then returned in high glee and good-humour to their +huts. + +On our return on board we were informed that, during our absence +in the morning, a flock of thirteen wolves, the first yet seen, +crossed the ice in the bay from the direction of the huts, and +passed near the ships. These animals, as we afterward learned, had +accompanied or closely followed the Esquimaux on their journey to +the island the preceding day, and they proved to us the most +troublesome part of their _suite_. They so much resemble the +Esquimaux dogs, that, had it not been for some doubt among the +officers who had seen them whether they were so or not, and the +consequent fear of doing these poor people an irreparable injury, +we might have killed most of them the same evening, for they came +boldly to look for food within a few yards of the Fury, and +remained there for some time. + +In order to prevent our people from occasioning the Esquimaux any +disturbance or apprehension, I directed that only six from each +ship should be allowed to visit the huts at one time, and that +they should then be always accompanied by an officer. A strict +prohibition was, at the same time, issued against the smallest +article of the ships' stores being given to the people without +permission, on pain of severe punishment. + +At an early hour on the 2d we set out, with a large party, on our +proposed excursion to the huts. The natives received us with great +cordiality, though with somewhat more noisy expressions of +pleasure than before; and we soon began a more minute examination +of their habitations and furniture, in which they readily assisted +us, except that they always sat very closely on the deerskins +which composed their beds, under which were stowed such articles +as they were least willing or able to dispose of. They sold, +however, a great number of their things without reluctance; and it +was, indeed, astonishing to see with what eagerness they would, +for the mere sake of change and variety, barter some of their most +indispensable articles for the veriest trifles in our possession. +For instance, a single sewing-needle, of which they possessed +abundance not much inferior to our own, procured from them a +large, well-sharpened _p=anna_, or man's knife, made of stout +iron, for which, in point of absolute utility, a hundred needles +would not have been a fair equivalent. Various other instances of +the same kind occurred, by which, indeed, they were not ultimately +losers, though they certainly would have been so had our +intercourse ended here. + +We dined in the huts, and the Esquimaux gladly partook of our +biscuit and meat, and even of a little wine, which, however, they +did not relish. We returned on board about sunset, much gratified +with the interesting day we had passed; having laid the foundation +of that perfect confidence and good understanding which, with +little or no interruption, afterward subsisted between us and our +new acquaintance. + +On the morning of the 3d, a number of these people were observed +to set off over the ice to the southwest, to bring, as we +conjectured, either some more of their people or of their property +from their last place of abode. On walking out to the huts after +divine service, however, we found they had been seal-catching, and +had succeeded in taking four. The very small quantity of food +which they had in their huts at first coming, consisting of a +little venison, and the flesh and blubber of the whale and seal, +induced us to suppose they had left some of their provision +behind, and that they would return for it as occasion demanded. +But we now found that even at this rigorous season they were +entirely dependant in this way on their daily exertions, and they +had only removed into their present quarters on account of the +failure of their summer's store, and of the greater facility of +obtaining seals at Winter Island than where the sea was more +closely and continually frozen. + +On the 4th a number of Esquimaux came to the ships, and we took +the opportunity of getting them to go through the process of +building a snow hut for our amusement and information. From the +quickness with which they completed this, our surprise at the +sudden appearance of their village ceased; as we now saw that two +or three hours would be more than sufficient to complete the whole +establishment just as we at first found it. They were then taken +on board, and derived great amusement from our organ, and from +anything in the shape of music, singing, or dancing, of all which +they are remarkably fond. Nor can I here omit a striking instance +of the honesty of these people which occurred to-day. Some of the +gentlemen of the Hecla had purchased two of their dogs, which had +the preceding evening made their escape and returned to the huts. +After the departure of the Esquimaux to-day, we were surprised to +find that they had left two dogs carefully tied up on board the +Fury, which, on inquiry, proved to be the animals in question, and +which had been thus faithfully restored to their rightful owners. + +On the 5th a number of the natives came on board, according to +promise, to rebuild the hut in a more substantial manner, and to +put a plate of ice into the roof, as a window, which they did with +great quickness as well as care, several of the women cheerfully +assisting in the labour. The men seemed to take no small pride in +showing in how expeditious and workmanlike a manner they could +perform this; and the hut, with its outer passage, was soon +completed. From this time they were in the constant habit of +coming freely to the ships; and such as it was not always +convenient to admit usually found very profitable employment in +examining the heaps of ashes, sand, and other rubbish on the +outside, where their trouble was well repaid by picking up small +scraps of tin or iron. All that they found in this manner we +allowed them to consider as their lawful property; but were very +particular in preventing their handling anything on board without +permission. + +The wolves had now begun to do us some damage; for not even the +sails that were fastened round the house and observatory could +escape their ravenous fangs, and they had thus, in the course of a +single night, much injured two of our studding-sails. We set traps +for them on the ice, and also large shark-hooks, secured with +chains and baited with meat; but the former they entered and +destroyed, and the latter was always found broken or bent, without +securing the depredators. These animals were indeed so hungry and +fearless as to take away some of the Esquimaux dogs in a +snow-house near the Hecla's stern, though the men were at the time +within a few yards of them. + +From the circumstance of Captain Lyon and myself having +accidentally gone into different huts on our first visits to the +village (for by this name I believe we must venture to dignify the +united abodes of more than sixty human beings), particular +individuals among the Esquimaux had already, in a manner, attached +themselves to each of us. Captain Lyon now informed me that one of +his acquaintance, a remarkably fine and intelligent young man, +named _=Ay~ok~et_, had given him to understand that he had +somewhere or other seen _Kabloona_[*] people like ourselves only a +few months ago. This being the case, there seemed no reason why, +if it were made worth his while, he should not be able to see them +again in the course of next summer. Anxious to profit by this +unexpected mode of communication, I requested Captain Lyon to +endeavour to direct Ayoket's attention to the scheme of conveying +a letter from us to the persons of whom he spoke. + +[Footnote: European.] + +On the 7th I paid another visit to the huts, where I found +scarcely anybody but women and children, the whole of the men, +with the exception of the two oldest, having gone on a sealing +excursion to the northeastern side of the island. One of the +women, named _Il=igliuk_, a sister of the lad Toolooak, who +favoured us with a song, struck us as having a remarkably soft +voice, an excellent ear, and a great fondness for singing, for +there was scarcely any stopping her when she had once begun. We +had, on their first visit to the ships, remarked this trait in +Iligliuk's disposition, when she was listening for the first time +to the sound of the organ, of which she seemed never to have +enough; and almost every day she now began to display some of that +superiority of understanding for which she was so remarkably +distinguished. A few of the women learned several of our names +to-day, and I believe all thought us Angekoks[*] of a very +superior class, when we repeated to them all round, by the +assistance of our books, the names of all their husbands, obtained +on board the preceding day. On our way back to the ships we saw a +party of them, with their dogs, returning over the hill from the +northeastward; and we afterward met another of eight or ten, who +had walked round by the southeast point on the ice, all alike +unsuccessful, after being out in the wind for six hours, with the +thermometer from 18 to 22 degrees below _zero_. Thus hardly did +these people obtain their daily subsistence at this severe season +of the year. + +[Footnote: Sorcerers or wizards, pronounced as written above in +Greenland; but at Winter Island _Ang-~et-k~ook_; and by the people +at Igloolik, _An-n~at-k~o_.] + +A wolf being caught in one of the traps this evening, which was so +close as to be easily watched from the ship, a party of the +officers ran out to secure the depredator, and fired two balls +into the trap at once to despatch him. Finding, after this, that +he continued to bite a sword that was thrust in, a third shot was +fired at him. The trap was then sufficiently opened to get his +hind legs firmly tied together, after which, being considered +tolerably secure, he was pulled out of the trap, which, however, +his head had scarcely cleared, when he furiously flew at Mr. +Richards's throat, and would certainly have done him some serious +mischief had not that gentleman, with great presence of mind, +seized the animal in his turn by the throat, squeezing him with +all his force between both hands. This made the wolf relinquish +his first attempt, and Mr. Richards only suffered by a bite in his +arm and another in his knee, which, on account of the thickness of +his clothes, were happily not severe ones. As for the wolf, he +prudently took to his heels, though two of them were still tied +together; and, being favoured by the momentary confusion, +occasioned by his late rencounter with Mr. Richards, succeeded in +escaping his pursuers. He was found dead the following day at the +distance of three quarters of a mile from the ships. + +On the 8th we were visited by a musical party of females, +consisting only of a few individuals expressly invited for this +purpose. A number of the officers assembled in the cabin to hear +this vocal concert, while Mr. Henderson and myself took down the +notes of their songs, for which, indeed, they gave us every +opportunity, for I thought they would never leave off. We +afterward amused them with our little band of flutes and violins, +and also by some songs, with the whole of which they were +extremely well pleased. I feared several of them, and especially +Iligliuk, would go into fits with delight when we introduced into +our song some of their names mingled with our own. While most of +us were thus employed, Captain Lyon took the opportunity of making +drawings of some of the women, especially of _Togolat_, the +prettiest of the party, and, perhaps, of the whole village. She +was about six-and-twenty years of age, with a face more oval than +that of Esquimaux in general, very pretty eyes and mouth, teeth +remarkably white and regular, and possessing in her carriage and +manners a degree of natural gracefulness, which could not be hid +even under the disguise of an Esquimaux woman's dress, and, as was +usual with Togolat, the dirtiest face of her whole tribe. Her +husband, _Ewerat_, a little ugly man of about five-and-forty, was +the only individual among them laying claim to the title of +Angetkook, and was, in reality, a sensible, obliging man, and a +first-rate seal-catcher. They had two children, one of which, a +little girl, Togolat still occasionally suckled, and, according to +custom, carried in the hood behind her back; the other, a boy +about eight years of age, quite an idiot, deaf and dumb from his +birth, and squinting most horribly with both eyes. + +Finding that these poor creatures were now really in want of food, +for the men had again returned from an unsuccessful excursion, I +was happy to avail myself of a hint given to me by Captain Lyon, +to furnish them occasionally with a small supply of bread-dust, of +which we had two or three casks in each ship. Our present party +was therefore, in addition to other articles, supplied with +several pounds, which they immediately expressed their intention +to take home to their children. Several of them visited the ships +as usual on the 9th, and among the rest Ka-oong-ut and his son +Toolooak. The old gentleman was not a favourite with us, being the +only one who had yet begun to tease us by constant begging. We had +often expressed displeasure at this habit, which, after a day or +two's acquaintance, began to be extremely troublesome; but I had +to-day to take cognizance of his stealing a nail, of which I +determined to take a rather serious notice, as it might otherwise +lead to more extensive theft. I therefore collected all the other +Esquimaux who were on board, and having in their presence +expressed great indignation at this conduct, turned the offender +away in disgrace. Some of those best acquainted with us were +afterward taken into the cabin, where our sentiments were more +fully explained to them. Among these I was not sorry to have +Toolooak and Iligliuk, who would not fail to report at the huts +all our proceedings, but who did not appear to consider themselves +in the slightest degree implicated in their father's offence, or +concerned in his disgrace. The people of the huts being much in +want of food, we again distributed some bread-dust among them; +taking care to send a portion to the infirm old man, _Hik-k~ei-~er= +a_, by _Ok~otook_, the husband of Iligliuk, a fine, active, manly +fellow of about two-and-thirty, who, as we were pleased to find the +next day, had punctually executed his commission. + +The Esquimaux went out on the 10th to endeavour to catch seals as +usual, but returned unsuccessful after several hours' labour. As +it was now evident that their own exertions were not at all times +sufficient to procure them food at this season, and that neither +indolence nor any idea of dependance on our charity induced them +to relax in those exertions, it became incumbent on us carefully +to attend to their wants, and, by a timely and judicious +application of the slender resources we had set aside for their +use, prevent any absolute suffering among them. We therefore sent +out a good meal of bread-dust for each individual, to be divided +in due proportion among all the huts. The necessity of this supply +appeared very strongly from the report of our people, who found +some of these poor creatures actually gnawing a piece of hard +sealskin with the hair on it, while few of the huts had any lamp +alight. It must be remembered that the failure of their +seal-fishery always involves a double calamity, for it not only +deprives them of food, but of fuel for their lamps. When this is +the case, not to mention the want of warmth and light in the huts, +they are also destitute of the means of melting snow for water, +and can therefore only quench their thirst by eating the snow, +which is not only a comfortless, but an ineffectual resource. In +consequence of this, it was surprising to see the quantity of +water these people drank whenever they came on board; and it was +often with difficulty that our coppers could answer this +additional demand. I am certain that Toolooak one day drank nearly +a gallon in less than two hours. Besides the bread-dust, we also +supplied them to-day with a wolf's carcass, which, raw and frozen +as it was, they ate with a good appetite; and, indeed, they had +not the means of cooking, or even thawing it. I cannot here omit a +pleasing trait in their character, observed by our people who +carried out their supplies; not a morsel of which would the +grown-up people touch till they had first supplied the wants of +their hungry little ones. + +On the morning of the 12th, Okotook and his uncle _Arnaneelia_, a +sensible and worthy man of about five-and-forty years of age, +coming on board from their fishing, we showed them the stage and +scenery that were just put up, and invited them and their wives to +the play about to be performed this evening. They accordingly went +back and brought the women, who understood they were to be present +at some diversion, though they did not well know what. It was +enough, however, with Iligliuk, just to make the motion of turning +the handle of the organ, which, conveying to her mind the idea of +music and merriment, was always sure to put her immediately into +high spirits. As they came three or four hours before the +performance of "John Bull" was to commence, they began to grow +tired and impatient, especially when it became dusk, and candles +were brought into the cabin. The men then explained that it would +soon be dark, and that, in returning late to their huts, they +should disturb the people who would then be fast asleep there. +Finding that they grew uneasy, I made no objection to their +returning, and sent them off loaded with bread-dust and some oil +for each of their lamps. They remained long enough, however, to +have a peep at _Mrs. Brulgruddery_, whose dress, when they were +informed it was that of a _kabl=o=ona nooll=e=e-~o_ (European +wife), they were very anxious in examining, and seemed to grieve +at going away without sharing the diversion which this and other +preparations seemed to promise. + +On the 13th, our friends at the huts were fortunate in procuring +three seals, an event that created great joy at the village. Mr. +Allison, who happened to be there when one of these prizes was +announced, informed me that there was a general outcry of joy; all +the Women hurried to the doors of the huts, and the children +rushed to the beach to meet the men dragging along the prize. One +of these little urchins, to complete the triumphant exultation +with which this event was hailed, instantly threw himself on the +animal, and clinging fast to it, was thus dragged to the huts. +Each woman was observed to bring her _=o=otk~oos~eek_, or +cooking-pot, to the hut where the seal was dissected, for the +purpose of receiving a share of the meat and blubber. + +On the 15th it blew a strong gale from S.W. to W.N.W., and the +thermometer, either on account of the strength of the wind or its +having occasionally some southing in it, rose to -4°, being the +highest temperature registered in our journals since the 27th of +December preceding. I had agreed with Okotook to accompany him on +a sealing excursion, but the day proved too inclement, the +Esquimaux not going out themselves, though it was not very often +that the weather could prevent them. Considering it desirable to +increase, by all the means in our power, the chances of these +people giving information of us, we distributed among several of +the men large round medallions of sheet copper, having these words +punched through them: "H.B.M.S. Fury and Hecla, all well, A.D. +1822." These we suspended by a piece of white line round their +necks, giving them to understand that they were to show them to +any Kabloona people they might ever meet with in future. Similar +ornaments, but of a smaller size, were subsequently presented to +many of the women, having on them the words "Fury and Hecla, +1822." + +Early on the morning of the 16th, observing a party of the +Esquimaux, equipped with spears, passing near the ships, I joined +them, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and one or two others. Having +crossed the point of the island, they walked over the ice to the +eastward, where we did not overtake them till they had got above a +mile and a quarter from the shore. This party consisted of eight +persons, among whom we were glad to find Arnaneelia, Okotook, +Toolooak, _Pootooalook_ his elder brother, and one or two others +whom we knew. They had by this time, however, separated into two +or three different parties, stationed at the distance of half a +mile from each other, along the edge of the floe, beyond which, to +the eastward, there was clear water as far as we could see for +frost-smoke. + +The party we at first joined were seated on a high hummock of ice, +with their spears in their hands, looking out for seals. After we +had talked to them for a few minutes, Okotook suddenly started up +and set off along the edge of the ice, without giving us at his +companions the least warning. The latter seemed so much accustomed +to this, that they took no farther notice than by immediately +following him, and we did the same; the whole party walking at a +very quick rate, and the natives keeping their heads constantly +turned towards the sea to look out for seals. After being thus +engaged for an hour and a half, we judged, from the motions of a +party at some distance beyond us, that they had game in view. As +we approached them, Okotook evidently began to be apprehensive +that we, who did not understand the matter, would spoil their +sport. To prevent this, he did the most civil thing that could +well have been devised, which was, to send his companions one by +one to the spot, and to remain with us himself, keeping us at such +a distance as to allow us to see their proceedings, without +alarming the animal they were in pursuit of. The other seven +Esquimaux, now forming one party, disposed themselves into a +single line, so as to make as small an appearance as possible in +the direction in which they were going, and in this manner crept +very cautiously towards the margin of the floe. On a sudden they +all stooped down quite low to hide themselves, and continued thus +a quarter of an hour, during which time they prepared their lines +and spears; and then, when the animal appeared to be intercepted +from their view, again took the opportunity of gaining a few paces +upon him, in the same cautious manner as before. When they had +been thus occupied for a full hour, alternately creeping and +stooping down, the seal, which had been lying on the ice, took the +water, and they then gave up their chase. During this time, +Okotook could scarcely restrain his impatience to be nearer the +scene of action; and when we produced a spyglass, which appeared +to bring his companions close to us, he had not words to express +his surprise and satisfaction. In a short time he held it as +steadily as we did, and explained by signs every motion he +observed. + +As soon as they had given up the seal they had been watching, the +whole party seemed with one accord to turn their steps homeward, +in which direction, being that of the ships also, we were by this +time not sorry to accompany them. We were now between three and +four miles northeast of the ships, and full a mile and a half from +any part of the shore. In the open water beyond the floe, the tide +was running two knots to the northward, and as the ice on which we +stood had been formed only within the last fortnight, and a sheet +as substantial as this had before been carried away by the stream +it was impossible not to feel some apprehension lest we might thus +be detached from the shore, an accident that has been known to +happen to Esquimaux ere now,[*] and has probably more frequently +befallen them, when none have survived to tell the tale. + +[Footnote: Crantz, London edition, 1820, Appendix, p. 310.] + +As we returned towards the land, we came to a small rising on the +level surface of the floe not larger than a common molehill, and +of much the same shape, at which one of the Esquimaux immediately +stopped. His companions, still walking on, called us away, +explaining that what we saw was the work of a seal, and that it +was probable the animal was about to complete his hole and to come +up on the ice, in which case the man would endeavour to kill him. +We watched the man at the hole, however, with a glass, for more +than half an hour, observing him constantly putting his head down +towards the ice, as if in the act of listening for the seal, but +without otherwise changing his position; after which he followed +us on board without success. + +If, however, a man has any reason to suppose that a seal is at +work beneath, he immediately attaches himself to the place, and +seldom leaves it till he has succeeded in killing the animal. For +this purpose, he first builds a snow-wall about four feet in +height, to shelter him from the wind, and, seating himself under +the lee of it, deposites his spear, lines, and other implements +upon several little forked sticks inserted into the snow, in order +to prevent the smallest noise being made in moving them when +wanted. But the most curious precaution to the same effect +consists in tying his own knees together with a thong, so securely +as to prevent any rustling of his clothes, which might otherwise +alarm the animal. In this situation a man will sit quietly +sometimes for hours together, attentively listening to any noise +made by the seal, and sometimes using the _keip-kuttuk_, an +instrument hereafter described, in order to ascertain whether the +animal is still at work below. When he supposes the hole to be +nearly completed, he cautiously lifts his spear, to which the line +has been previously attached, and, as soon as the blowing of the +seal is distinctly heard, and the ice consequently very thin, he +drives it into him with the force of both arms, and then cuts away +with his _panna_ the remaining crust of ice, to enable him to +repeat the wounds and get him out. The _neitiek_ is the only seal +killed in this manner, and, being the smallest, is held while +struggling either simply by hand, or by putting the line round a +spear with the point stuck into the ice. For the _oguke_, the line +is passed round the man's leg or arm; and for a walrus, round his +body, his feet being at the same time firmly set against a hummock +of ice, in which position these people can, from habit, hold +against a very heavy strain. Boys of fourteen or fifteen years of +age consider themselves equal to the killing of a _neitiek_, but +it requires a full-grown person to master either of the larger +animals. + +On the 17th, a number of the Esquimaux coming before the church +service, we gave them to understand, by the sun, that none could +be admitted before noon, when they quietly remained outside the +ships till divine service had been performed. We then endeavoured +to explain to Iligliuk that every seventh day they must not come +to the ships, for, without any intention of offending, they had +become rather an annoyance in this way. They now brought with them +a great many little canoes and paddles, sledges, figures of men +and women; and other toys, most of them already bespoke by the +officers and men, and the rest for sale. + +Toolooak, who now considered himself as quite privileged to find +his way into the cabin without a conductor, and was not backward +in thus practising his newly-acquired art of opening and shutting +the door, sat with me for a couple of hours on the 18th, quietly +drawing faces and animals, an occupation to which he took a great +fancy; and we often were reminded, by this circumstance, of a +similar propensity displayed by his amiable countryman, our +lamented friend John Sackhouse. We soon found that Toolooak +possessed a capacity equal to anything he chose to take an +interest in learning; and could he, at his present age, have been +voluntarily removed from his companions, and his attention +directed to the acquirement of higher branches of knowledge than +that of catching seals, he would have amply repaid any pains +bestowed upon his education. I had always entertained great +objection to taking any such individual from his home, on the +doubtful chance of benefiting himself, or of his doing any service +to the public as an interpreter. My scruples on this head had +hitherto been confined to the consideration due to the individual +himself, and to the relatives he leaves behind. In our present +case, however, not the smallest public advantage could be derived +from it; for it had long ago become evident that we should soon +know more of the Esquimaux language than any of them were likely +to learn of English in any reasonable period of time. I was +therefore far from desiring to receive from Toolooak an answer in +the affirmative, when I to-day plainly put the question to him, +whether he would go with me to _Kabloona noona_ (European +country). Never was a more decisive negative given than Toolooak +gave to this proposal. He eagerly repeated the word _na-o_ (no) +half a dozen times, and then told me that if he went away his +father would cry. This simple but irresistible appeal to paternal +affection, his decisive manner of making it, and the feelings by +which his reply was evidently dictated, were just what could have +been wished. No more could be necessary to convince those who saw +it, that these people may justly lay equal claim with ourselves to +these common feelings of our nature; and, having once satisfied +myself of this, I determined never again to excite in Toolooak's +mind another disagreeable sensation, by talking to him on this +subject. + +Besides the toys and models I have mentioned above, as articles of +barter with these people, we also employed them more usefully in +making wooden shades for the eyes, after their own method, as the +time was fast approaching when some such precaution would become +necessary to guard the eyes from the excessive glare of reflected +light. There was also a considerable _trade_ established in +mittens, which being made of prepared sealskin, and nearly +water-tight, were particularly serviceable to our men when +constantly handling the leadlines in the summer. In this manner we +contrived to turn our new acquaintance to some little account. + +Among the natives who visited the Fury to-day was Ewerat; of whom +I have already spoken as _Ang-et-kook_, or chief sorcerer of the +tribe, a distinction with which he had made some of our gentlemen +acquainted at one, of their earliest visits to the huts. Being +desirous of seeing him perform some of the tricks which had +acquired for him this pre-eminence, I requested him to indulge me +with a sight of them. After some little demur, he began to make +his lips quiver, then moved his nose up and down, gradually closed +his eyes, and increased the violence of his grimaces till every +feature was hideously distorted; at the same time, he moved his +head rapidly from side to side, uttering sometimes a snuffling +sound, and at others a raving sort of cry. Having worked himself +into this ridiculous kind of phrensy, which lasted, perhaps, from +twenty to thirty seconds, he suddenly discontinued it, and +suffered his features to relax into their natural form; but the +motion of his head seemed to have so stupified him, as indeed it +well might, that there remained an unusual vacancy and a drowsy +stare upon his countenance for some time afterward. Being pressed +to repeat this piece of buffoonery, he did so two or three times; +and on one occasion Togolat asked him, in a serious tone, some +questions respecting me, which he as seriously answered. In +general, however, the women paid little attention to his grimaces, +and the whole ended with a hearty laugh from all parties. + +I had to-day some conversation with a woman named Appokiuk, whom +Iligliuk had mentioned as having seen Kabloona people before us. +This woman was gifted, however, with such a volubility of tongue, +that speaking, as she did, in a language very imperfectly known to +us, she gave no time for questions, and therefore afforded little +information. All we could make out for certain was, that she had, +within a year past, seen two _Kabloona oomiak_ (whether ships or +boats was still doubtful[*]), and that her husband was now far +away. From all this we concluded that she had been far enough to +the southward to see the Hudson's Bay ships in the course of their +annual voyage; and this account gave us very sanguine hopes of +being thus able to communicate with them by means of some of the +Esquimaux. + +[Footnote: These people apply the word _oomiak_ to any vessel +larger than a canoe.] + +On the 20th, a number of our new friends having been allowed upon +the upper deck, an old woman named _Ay=ug-g~a-lo~ok_ stole our +cooper's punch, which she was showing to her companions alongside +the Hecla just afterward, when Lieutenant Hoppner observed it, and +sent her back with an escort. It was impossible not to admit that +the fault was chiefly on our side, in permitting these poor people +to roam about too freely amid temptations which scarcely anything +human could have withstood; but as it was necessary to take some +notice of it, I went through nearly the same process as with +Kaoongut, and dismissed her with great appearance of indignation +to the huts. We were glad to find that their wants had there been +well supplied to-day, three seals having been caught. They had +lately, indeed, been tolerably successful in general, and required +but little of our assistance. Mr. Elder observing one of their +dogs attacked by several wolves, and hastening to the spot with +his gun, found that these animals had made such quick work in the +partition of their prey, that, though he reached the scene of +action in a few minutes, and the dog had at first made considerable +resistance, only one of its hind legs remained, each wolf having +run off with its share. It is remarkable that these creatures +had never entered our traps since the moon had declined to the +southward, whereas not a night elapsed before that without their +going to them. The Esquimaux had in theirs caught only a fox. + +During the eclipse of the sun which took place to-day, the +diminution, of light was very considerable, but the weather was +unfavourable for observing it for any useful purpose. Captain Lyon +remarked, that some of the Esquimaux, who were on alarmed at this +phenomenon, which, indeed, made a general bustle among them. Two +of them were found on the ice lying on their faces, but it was not +ascertained whether their superstitions on this subject were the +same as those of their brethren in Greenland. + +Mr. Henderson being desirous of seeing something of the customs of +these people during the hours of darkness, obtained my permission +to pass the night at the huts, accompanied by Mr. Griffiths. Soon +after they left the ships in the evening it came on to blow strong +from the northwest, with much snowdrift, so that, losing the +tracks, they with difficulty found the village. Returning on board +in the course of the next forenoon, we were pleased to hear that +they had met with every attention, and especially from Okotook, +with whom they lodged. As they had slept in Kaoongut's hut, one +side of which was occupied by Okotook and his family, the old +fellow thought it a good opportunity to make up the quarrel +occasioned by his dishonesty; and he accordingly made his +appearance on board to-day for the first time since that event. +Toolooak was deputed to bring his father down into the cabin, where +a formal reconciliation took place, to the great satisfaction of +the latter, who had found out that to be out of favour with us was +attended with the serious consequence of being also out of pocket. +It was laughable to observe the pains he now took to impress on the +minds of every person he saw that he was no longer a _tigliktoke_, +by which name he had lately been distinguished; for he seemed to +think that my receiving him again into favour was a perfect +absolution from his offense. + +On the 23d I paid another visit to the huts, and found the greater +part of the men absent on their sealing excursions. We thought, +however, that, except on pressing occasions, one man was left in +each hut to keep an eye on the conduct of the women, and this was +the case to-day. The huts had in the interior assumed a somewhat +different appearance since I had last seen them; the roofs were +much blackened by the smoke of the lamps, and the warmth had in +most parts given them a glazed and honey-combed surface; indeed, +the whole of the walls had become much thinner by thawing, so that +the light was more plainly visible through them. The snow also, on +which the lamps stood, was considerably worn away, so as to +destroy, in great measure, the regularity of the original plan of +construction. To these changes might be added that of a vast +quantity of blood and oil that now defaced the purity of the snowy +floor, and emitted effluvia not very agreeable to European noses; +so that, upon the whole, it may be imagined that our first +impressions of the comfort and cleanliness of these habitations +were more favourable than their present state was calculated to +excite. + +To the original apartments they had now also added various small +places for stores, communicating with the huts from within, and +looking something like our ovens, though without any door to them. +In some of these they deposited their upper jackets, which they +usually take off in coming into their huts, as we do a greatcoat; +while in smaller ones, like little shelves in a recess, they kept +various articles of their Kabloona riches. These and similar +alterations and additions they were constantly making throughout +the winter; for their inexhaustible materials being always at +hand, it required but little time and labour to adopt any +arrangement that might suit their convenience. + +After distributing a number of presents in the first four huts, I +found, on entering the last, that Pootooalook had been successful +in bringing in a seal, over which two elderly women were standing, +armed with large knives, their hands and faces besmeared with +blood, and delight and exultation depicted on their countenances. +They had just performed the first operation of dividing the animal +into two parts, and thus laying open the intestines. These being +taken out, and all the blood carefully baled up and put into the +_ootkooseek_, or cooking-pot, over the fire, they separated the +head and flippers from the carcass, and then divided the ribs. All +the loose scraps were put into the pot for immediate use, except +such as the two butchers now and then crammed into their mouths, +or distributed to the numerous and eager by-standers for still +more immediate consumption. Of these morsels the children came in +for no small share, every little urchin that could find its way to +the slaughterhouse running eagerly in, and, between the legs of +the men and women, presenting its mouth for a large lump of raw +flesh, just as an English child of the same age might do for a +piece of sugar-candy. Every now and then, also, a dog would make +his way towards the reeking carcass, and, when in the act of +seizing upon some delicate part, was sent off yelping by a heavy +blow with the handles of the knives. When all the flesh is +disposed of, for a portion of which each of the women from the +other huts usually brings her ootkooseek, the blubber still +remains attached to the skin, from which it is separated the last; +and the business being now completed, the two parts of the hide +are rolled up and laid by, together with the store of flesh and +blubber. During the dissection of their seals, they have a curious +custom of sticking a thin filament of skin, or of some part of the +intestines, upon the foreheads of the boys, who are themselves +extremely fond of it, it being intended, as Iligliuk afterward +informed me, to make them fortunate seal-catchers. + +The seals which they take during the winter are of two kinds--the +_Neitiek_, or small seal (_phoca hispida_), and the _Oguke_, or +large seal (_phoca barbata_). These and the _E=i-~u-~ek_, or +walrus, constitute their means of subsistence at this season; but, +on this particular part of the coast, the latter are not very +abundant, and they chiefly catch the neitiek. The animal we had +now seen dissected was of that kind, and with young at the time. A +small one taken out of it had a beautiful skin, which, both in +softness and colour, very much resembled raw silk; but no +inducement could make Pootooalook part with it, he having destined +it for that night's supper. + +After quitting this scene of filth, I found, on returning to +Kaoongut's hut, that Toolooak had been no less successful than his +brother, and that the same operation was also performing here. +Having, therefore, explained to Iligliuk that none of them were to +come to the ships the following day, I had no inclination to see +the process repeated, and was glad to take my leave. + +On the 28th, Okotook and Iligliuk coming on board, an occurrence +took place, which, as it shows the disposition of the Esquimaux, +and especially of one of the most intelligent and interesting +among them, I may here relate. Some time before, Iligliuk, who, +from the superior neatness and cleanliness with which she +performed her work, was by this time in great request as a +seamstress, had promised to cover for me a little model of a +canoe, and had, in fact, sent it to me by the sergeant of marines, +though I had not rightly understood from the latter from which of +the women it came. Believing that she had failed in her promise, I +now taxed her with it, when she immediately defended herself with +considerable warmth and seriousness, but without making me +comprehend her meaning. Finding that she was wasting her words +upon me, she said no more till an hour afterward, when the +sergeant accidentally coming into the cabin, she, with the utmost +composure, but with a decision of manner peculiar to herself, took +hold of his arm to engage his attention, and then looking him +steadfastly in the face, accused him of not having faithfully +executed her commission to me. The mistake was thus instantly +explained, and I thanked Iligliuk for her canoe; but it is +impossible for me to describe the quiet, yet proud satisfaction +displayed in her countenance at having thus cleared herself from +the imputation of a breach of promise. + +There being among the presents with which we were supplied a +number of pikes, we presented two or three of these from each ship +to the most deserving of the Esquimaux, to serve as staves for +their spears; and valuable ones they proved to them. Upon each +pike were marked, by small nails driven into the wood, the words +"Fury and Hecla, 1822." + +Almost the whole of these people were now affected with violent +colds and coughs, occasioned by a considerable thawing that had +lately taken place in their huts, so as to wet their clothes and +bedding; though we had, as yet, experienced no great increase of +temperature. From the nature of their habitations, however, their +comfort was greater, and their chance of health better, when the +cold was more severe. On this account, they began to make fresh +alterations in these curious dwelling-places, either by building +the former apartments two or three feet higher, or adding others, +that they might be less crowded. In building a higher hut, they +constructed it over, and, as it were, concentric with the old one, +which is then removed from within. It is curious to consider that, +in all these alterations, the object kept in view was _coolness_, +and this in houses formed of snow! + +Some of them had caught a wolf in their trap; but we found that +nothing less than extreme want could have induced them to eat the +flesh of that which we had given them, as, now that they had other +food, they would not touch it. Only four wolves at this time +remained alive of the original pack, and these were constantly +prowling about near the ships or the village. + +The month of February closed with the thermometer at -32°, and, +though the sun had now attained a meridian altitude of nearly +sixteen degrees, and enlivened us with his presence above the +horizon for ten hours in the day, no sensible effect had yet been +produced on the average temperature of the atmosphere. The +uniformly white surface of the snow, on which, at this season, the +sun's rays have to act, or, rather, leaving them nothing to act +upon, is much against the first efforts to produce a thaw; but our +former experience of the astonishing rapidity with which this +operation is carried on, when once the ground begins to be laid +bare, served in some measure to reconcile us to what appeared a +protraction of the cold of winter not to have been expected in our +present latitude. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +Our intercourse with the Esquimaux continued, and many occasions +occurred in which they displayed great good humour, and a degree +of archness for which we could have scarcely given them credit. + +On the 12th Okotook came, according to an appointment previously +made, with a sledge and six dogs, to give me a ride to the huts, +bringing with him his son Sioutkuk, who, with ourselves, made up a +weight of near four hundred pounds upon the sledge. After being +upset twice, and stopping at least ten times, notwithstanding the +incessant bullying of Okotook, and, as it seemed to me, more +bodily labour on his part to steer us clear of accidents than if +he had walked the whole way, we at length arrived at the huts; a +distance of two miles, in five-and-twenty minutes. Of this +equipment and their usual modes of travelling, I shall have +occasion to speak more fully in another place. + +I found that several fresh alterations had been made in the huts +since my last visit, all, however, of the same, kind, and having +in view the same object as those last described. In these +alterations they seem to consult the convenience of the moment, +and to do it all by such unanimous consent, that no consultation +or difference of opinion ever appears to exist about it. So much +snowdrift had now collected about the huts, that their external +appearance was as much altered as that of the interior, and it was +difficult to trace any resemblance to the original village, or +even to perceive its present limits. The snow was now as high as +the roofs on every side, so that one might walk completely over +them, and, but for the round plates of ice composing the windows, +without suspecting the little hive of human beings that was +comfortably established below. This, however, was not always done +with impunity, when the thawing within had too much weakened the +roofs, in which case a leg sometimes made its way through, and +discovered in what parts repairs were become necessary. The +natives were at this time extremely well furnished with seals' +flesh for food and oil for their lamps, and all they would accept +from us (except meat, which we could not afford to give) was +water, and this they swallowed in such quantities whenever they +came to the ships, that it was impossible to furnish them with +half as much as they desired. + +We had before this time communicated to Ayoket and his countrymen +our intention of sending a party of our people to the northward in +the spring; and Captain Lyon had displayed to him all the charms +of a brightly-polished brass kettle, of greater magnitude than +had, perhaps, ever entered into an Esquimaux imagination, as an +inducement, among various others, for him to accompany the +Kabloonas in their excursion. The prospect of such riches was a +temptation almost irresistible; but enterprise is not the genius +of an Esquimaux; and Ayoket, we soon began to perceive, had no +fancy for the proposed trip, which all his friends persisted in +saying could never be accomplished. This was evidently to be +attributed, in no small degree, to jealousy of any one individual +among them being thus selected; and the brass kettle was speedily +the means of increasing the distance to "Iligliuk's country" from +sixteen to twenty-four days' journey. We had long, indeed, +observed that this feeling of jealousy was easily excited among +these people; but, what is extraordinary, it never displayed +itself (as is most usual) among themselves, but was entirely +vented upon us, who were, though innocently, the authors of it. As +an instance of this, a man of the name of _Karr~etok_ refused to +take from me a strong and useful pair of scissors as a present, +because, as he did not hesitate to assure me, I had given Okotook +a pike, which was _more_ valuable. To show him that this temper +was not likely to produce anything to his advantage, I took back +the scissors, and, having sent him away, went to my dinner. Going +accidentally on deck an hour afterward, I found Karretok still on +board, who, having had time to reflect on his folly, now came up +to me with a smiling face, and begged hard for the scissors, +which, of course, he did not get. Many similar instances occurred, +both to Captain Lyon and myself. + +To this discouragement on the part of his friends, was added, on +that of Ayoket, the same wavering and inconstant disposition which +most other savages possess, rendering it impossible to place any +dependance on his promises and intentions for two hours together. +Indeed, the more our scheme was pressed upon his attention, and +the more he saw of the actual preparations for the journey, the +less doubtful his intentions became; and arrangements were +therefore made for completing the party without him. For the +reasons now given, it was equally impossible even to direct the +attention of the Esquimaux, with any hope of success, to our +scheme of their conveying letters to the Hudson's Bay settlements. + +Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, some of the +Esquimaux had, by the foot and sledge marks, found their way to +the ships on the morning of the 16th, assuring us, as we found to +be too true, that, in consequence of the gale, which prevented +their going out for seals, they had not any food, nor a single +lamp alight in the village. In the course of the following day, we +had farther proofs of the wretchedness which these poor people +were enduring at the huts; for, though the weather was little +better than before, above forty men and women, besides some +children, came down to the ships, and begged with more than their +usual earnestness for something to eat. It now once more became an +act of humanity, and consequently of duty, to supply them as well +as we were able; and all were admitted to partake of as much +bread-dust as they could eat, besides a quantity which they took +away with them. It had been long since Okotook and Iligliuk cared +to accept this kind of food from us, partly because our respect +for the latter generally ensured them something better, and partly +because, of late, they had procured plenty of seals; to-day, +however, they devoured it eagerly, and seemed very well satisfied +to take their share with the others. When the usual time of +departure came, they all discovered a wish to remain on board; +but, as we could not find lodgings for the whole tribe, they were +obliged very reluctantly to return. _Nannow_, a fine, quiet young, +man, whose native country is near Chesterfield Inlet, and who, +having only a sister here, used to live with Okotook, begged very +hard to remain on board; but, as I did not like to give the +preference to one in particular, he also took his leave. + +On the 18th, almost every man from the huts was out seal-hunting, +and three or four, as the women informed us, had gone to a +considerable distance "for walruses" and with the intention of +remaining out for the night in a snow hut. While the men were thus +employed, their wives did not fail to use their endeavours also to +procure food; and I believe that every female belonging to the +village, without a single exception, made her appearance at the +ships to-day, and was supplied with a proportion of bread-dust for +her family. It was pleasing to observe that they were always +punctual in returning the buckets and bags which we lent them for +carrying out their provisions. + +The endeavours we had lately been making to gain from the +Esquimaux some knowledge of the geographical features of the land +to the northward, had at length been crowned with greater success +than we had anticipated, and some information of a very gratifying +and interesting nature thus obtained. I shall here, therefore, +give some account of that information, and of the progressive +steps by which it was communicated, which may, at the same time, +serve to show the kind and degree of dependence that is to be +placed on geographical notices thus obtained. + +The first attempt made in this way was by placing several sheets +of paper before Iligliuk, and roughly drawing on a large scale an +outline of the land about Repulse Bay and Lyon Inlet, and, +terminating at our present winter-quarters. Iligliuk was not long +in comprehending what we desired, and with the pencil continued +the outline, making the land trend, as we supposed, to the +northeastward, and giving the names of the principal places as we +proceeded. The scale being large, it was necessary, when she came +to the end of one piece of paper to tack on another, till at +length she had filled ten or twelve sheets, and had completely +lost the sight of Winter Island (called _Ne-y=uning-E=it-d~u~a_) +at the other end of the table. The idea entertained from this +first attempt was, that we should find the coast indented by +several inlets, and in some parts much loaded with ice, especially +at one strait to the northward of her native island Amitioke, +which seemed to lead in a direction very much to the westward. + +Within a week after this, several other charts were drawn by the +natives in a similar way, principally by the desire of Captain +Lyon and Mr. Griffiths, who took great pains to acquire +information of this nature, and sent me copies of these +productions. The coast was here delineated as before, on a very +large scale, but much more in, detail, many more islands, bays, +and names being, inserted. It was observable, however, that no two +charts much resembled each other, and that the greater number of +them still less resembled the truth in those parts of the coast +with which we were well acquainted. + +Early in the morning the Esquimaux had been observed in motion at +the huts; and several sledges, drawn by dogs and heavily laden, +went off to the westward. On going out to the village, we found +one half of the people had quitted their late habitations, taking +with them every article of their property, and had gone over the +ice, we knew not where, in quest of more abundant food. The +wretched appearance which the interior of the huts now presented +baffles all description. In each of the larger ones some of the +apartments were either wholly or in part deserted, the very snow +which composed the beds and fireplaces having been turned up, that +no article might be left behind. Even the bare walls, whose +original colour was scarcely perceptible for lampblack, blood, and +other filth, were not left perfect, large holes having been made +in the sides and roofs for the convenience of handing out the +goods and chattels. The sight of a deserted habitation is at all +times calculated to excite in the mind a sensation of dreariness +and desolation, especially when we have lately seen it filled with +cheerful inhabitants; but the feeling is heightened rather than +diminished when a small portion of these inhabitants remain behind +to endure the wretchedness which such a scene exhibits. This was +now the case at the village, where, though the remaining tenants +of each hut had combined to occupy one of the apartments, a great +part of the bed-places were still bare, and the wind and drift +blowing in through the holes which they had not yet taken the +trouble to stop up. The old man Hikkeiera and his wife occupied a +hut by themselves, without any lamp, or a single ounce of meat +belonging to them; while three small skins, on which the former +was lying, were all that they possessed in the way of blankets. +Upon the whole, I never beheld a more miserable spectacle, and it +seemed a charity to hope that a violent and constant cough, with +which the old man was afflicted, would speedily combine with his +age and infirmities to release him from his present sufferings. +Yet, in the midst of all this, he was cheerful, nor was there a +gloomy countenance to be seen at the village. Almost all the men +were out; and some of them had been led so far to sea upon the +floating and detached masses of ice in pursuit of walruses, that +Captain Lyon, who observed their situation from the ships, had it +in contemplation, in the course of the evening, to launch one of +the small boats to go to their assistance. They seemed, however, +to entertain no apprehensions themselves, from a confidence, +perhaps, that the southeast wind might be depended upon for +keeping the ice close home upon the shore. It is certain, +notwithstanding, that no degree of precaution, nor any knowledge +of the winds and tides, can render this otherwise than a most +perilous mode of obtaining subsistence; and it was impossible, +therefore, not to admire the fearlessness as well as dexterity +with which the Esquimaux invariably pursued it. + +Having distributed some bread-dust among the women, we told old +Illumea and her daughter Togolat that we proposed taking up our +lodging in their hut for the night. It is a remarkable trait in +the character of these people, that they always thank you heartily +for this, as well as for eating any of their meat; but board and +lodging may be given to _them_ without receiving the slightest +acknowledgment either in word or deed. As it was late before the +men returned, I asked Togolat to get the rest of the women to +perform some of their games, with the hope of seeing something +that was new. I had scarcely time to make the proposal when she +darted out of the hut, and quickly brought every female that was +left at the village, not excepting even the oldest of them, who +joined in the performance with the same alacrity as the rest. I +could, however, only persuade them to go through a tedious song we +often before heard, which was now, indeed, somewhat modified by +their insisting on our taking our turns in the performance, all +which did not fail to create among them never-ceasing merriment +and laughter. Neither their want of food and fuel, nor the +uncertain prospect of obtaining any that night, was sufficient to +deprive these poor creatures of that cheerfulness and good-humour +which it seems at all times their peculiar happiness to enjoy. + +The night proved very thick, with small snow, and as disagreeable +and dangerous for people adrift upon floating ice as can well be +imagined. If the women, however, gave their husbands a thought, or +spoke of them to us, it was only to express a very sincere hope +that some good news might shortly arrive of their success. Our +singing party had not long been broken up, when it was suddenly +announced by one of the children, the usual heralds on such +occasions, that the men had killed something on the ice. The only +two men who were at home instantly scrambled on their outer +jackets, harnessed their dogs, and set off to assist their +companions in bringing home the game, while the women remained for +an hour in anxious suspense as to the extent of their husbands' +success. At length one of the men arrived with the positive +intelligence of two walruses having been taken, and brought with +him a portion of these animals as large as he could drag over the +snow. If the women were only cheerful before, they were now +absolutely frantic. A general shout of joy instantly re-echoed +through the village; they ran into each other's huts to +communicate the welcome intelligence, and actually hugged one +another in an ecstasy of delight by way of congratulation. One of +them, _Arnal=o=o~a_, a pretty young woman of nineteen or twenty, +knowing that a dog belonging to her husband was still at the huts, +and that there was no man to take him down on the ice, ran out +instantly to perform that office; and, with a hardihood not to be +surpassed by any of the men, returned, after two hours' absence, +with her load of walrus flesh, and without even the hood thrown +over her head to shelter her from the inclemency of the weather. + +When the first burst of joy had at length subsided, the women +crept, one by one, into the apartment where the first portion of +the seahorses had been conveyed, which is always that of one of +the men immediately concerned in the killing of them. Here they +obtained blubber enough to set all their lamps alight, besides a +few scraps of meat for their children and themselves. From this +time, which was nine o'clock, till past midnight, fresh cargoes +were continually arriving; the principal part being brought in by +the dogs, and the rest by the men, who, tying the thong which held +it round their waist, dragged in each his separate portion. Before +the whole was brought in, however, some of them went out three +times to the scene of action, though the distance was a mile and a +half. + +Every lamp now swimming with oil, the huts exhibited a blaze of +light, and never was there a scene of more joyous festivity than +while the operation of cutting up the walruses continued. I took +the opportunity, which their present good-humour afforded, to +obtain a perfect head and tusks of one of these animals, which we +had not been able to do before; and, indeed, so much were their +hearts opened by the scene of abundance before them, that I +believe they would have given us anything we asked for. This +disposition was considerably increased also by their taking into +their heads that their success was in some way or other connected +with, or even owing to, our having taken up our night's lodging at +the huts. + +After viewing all this festivity for some time, I felt disposed to +rest; and, wrapping myself up in my fur coat, lay down on one of +the beds which Illumea had given up for our accommodation, as well +as her _k=eipik_, or large deerskin blanket, which she rolled up +for my pillow. The poor old woman herself sat up by her lamp, and +in that posture seemed perfectly well satisfied to doze away the +night. The singularity of my night's lodging made me awake several +times, when I always found some of the Esquimaux eating, though, +after we lay down, they kept quite quiet for fear of disturbing +us. Mr. Halse, who was still more wakeful, told me that some of +them were incessantly employed in this manner for more than three +hours. Indeed, the quantity of meat that thus they contrive to get +rid of is almost beyond belief. + +Having at length enjoyed a sound nap, I found on waking, about +five o'clock, that the men were already up, and had gone out to +renew their labours on the ice, so that several of them could not +have rested more than two or three hours. This circumstance served +to correct a notion we had entertained, that, when once abundantly +supplied with food, they took no pains to obtain more till want +began again to stare them in the face. It was now more pleasing to +be assured that, even in the midst of plenty, they did not +indolently give themselves up to repose, but were willing to take +advantage of every favourable opportunity to increase their store. +It is certain, indeed, that, were these people more provident (or, +in other words, less gluttonous, for they do not waste much), they +might never know what it is to want provisions, even during the +most inclement part of the year. The state of the ice was to-day +very unfavourable for their purpose, being broken into pieces so +small that they could scarcely venture to walk upon it. + +The morning of the 5th proved favourable for a journey I had in +contemplation to the distant huts, to which Iligliuk, who had come +to Winter Island the day before, promised to be my guide. At six +o'clock I set out, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and two of the men, +carrying with us a supply of bread-dust, besides our own +provisions and blankets. As the distance was too great for her son +Sioutkuk to walk, we were uncertain, till the moment of setting +out, how this was to be managed, there being no sledge at hand for +the purpose. We found, however, that a man, whom we had observed +for some time at work among the hummocks of ice upon the beach, +had been employed in cutting out of that abundant material a neat +and serviceable little sledge, hollowed like a bowl or tray, out +of a solid block, and smoothly rounded at the bottom. The thong to +which the dogs were attached was secured to a groove cut round its +upper edge; and the young seal-catcher, seated in this simple +vehicle, was dragged along with great convenience and comfort. + +The ice over which we travelled was a level floe that had never +suffered disturbance since its first formation in the autumn, and +with not more than an inch and a half of snow upon it. The path +being distinctly marked out by the people, sledges, and dogs that +had before travelled upon it, one might, without any great stretch +of the imagination, have almost fancied it a road leading over a +level and extensive heath towards a more civilized and substantial +village than that which we were now approaching, Iligliuk walked +as nimbly as the best of us: and, after two hours' and a half +brisk travelling, we arrived at the huts, and were received by the +women (for all the men were absent) with every expression of +kindness and welcome. Each was desirous of affording us lodging, +and we had speedily arranged matters so as to put them to the +least possible inconvenience. + +These huts, four in number, were, in the mode of their +construction, exact counterparts of those at Winter Island on our +first visit, but, being new and clean, presented a striking +contrast with the latter, in their present disordered and filthy +state. What gave a peculiarity, as well as beauty also, to the +interior appearance of these habitations, was their being situated +on the ice, which, being cleared of the snow, presented a flooring +of that splendid blue which is, perhaps, one of the richest +colours that nature affords. A seal or two having been lately +procured, every lamp was now blazing, and every _=o=otk~ose~ek_ +smoking with a hot mess, which, together with the friendly +reception we experienced, and a little warmth and fatigue from +travelling, combined in conveying to our minds an idea of comfort +which we could scarcely believe an Esquimaux hut capable of +exciting. + +On the arrival of the men, who came in towards evening with two +seals as the reward of their labour, we were once more greeted and +welcomed. _Arnaneelia_, in particular, who was a quiet, obliging, +and even amiable man, was delighted to find my quarters were to be +in his apartment, where _An=e=etka_, his wife, a young woman of +about twenty-three, had already arranged everything for my +accommodation; and both these poor people now vied with each other +in their attention to my comfort. The other two apartments of the +same hut were occupied by Kaoongut and Okotook, with their +respective wives and families; it being the constant custom of +these people thus to unite in family groups whenever the nature of +their habitations will allow it. Mr. Bushnan being established +with Okotook, and the two men with Kaoongut, we were thus all +comfortably lodged under the same roof. + +Toolooak having been concerned in killing one of the seals just +brought in, it fell to his mother's lot to dissect it, the +_neitiek_ being the only animal which the women are permitted to +cut up. We had therefore an opportunity of seeing this filthy +operation once more performed, and entirely by the old lady +herself, who was soon up to her elbows in blood and oil. Before a +knife is put into the animal, as it lies on its back, they pour a +little water into its mouth, and touch each flipper and the middle +of the belly with a little lamp-black and oil taken from the under +part of the lamp. What benefit was expected from this preparatory +ceremony we could not learn, but it was done with a degree of +superstitious care and seriousness, that bespoke its indispensable +importance. The boys came eagerly into the hut as usual, and held +out their foreheads for the old woman to stick the charms upon +them; and it was not till now that we learned from Iligliuk the +efficacy of this very useful custom. As soon as this dirty +operation was at an end, during which the numerous by-standers +amused themselves in chewing the intestines of the seal, the +strangers retired to their own huts, each bearing a small portion +of the flesh and blubber, while our hosts enjoyed a hearty meal of +boiled meat and hot gravy soup. Young Sioutkuk ate at least three +pounds of solid meat in the first three hours after our arrival at +the huts, besides a tolerable proportion of soup, all which his +mother gave him whenever he asked it, without the smallest remark +of any kind. We now found that they depended on catching seals +alone for their subsistence, there being no walruses in this +neighbourhood. As they were several miles from any open water, +their mode of killing them was entirely confined to watching for +the animals coming up in the holes they make through the ice. + +In the course of the evening our conversation happened to turn on +the Indians, a people whom none of these Esquimaux had ever seen; +but with whose ferocity and decided hostility to their own nation +they seemed to be well acquainted. They described, also, their +peculiar manner of paddling their canoes, and were aware that they +made use of the kind of show-shoes which we showed them. When I +related to them, as well as I was able, the massacre of the +Esquimaux recorded by Hearne, and gave them to understand that the +Indians spared neither age nor sex, it seemed to chill them with +horror, and I was almost sorry that I had told them the story. + +_April 11._--We were now glad to begin making some show of +re-equipping the ships for sea; for though this was a business +that might, if necessary, have been very well accomplished in two +or three weeks, it was better to employ the men in occupations +having an evident and determinate object, than in those less +obviously useful ones to which it was necessary to resort during +the winter. We therefore brought down some of the boats to the +ships to repair, put up the forge on the ice, and built a snow +house over it, and set about various other jobs, which made the +neighbourhood of the ships assume a busy and bustling appearance. + +I had to-day a visit from Okotook and Iligliuk, who, with their +son, came in upon their sledge from the distant huts. Being +desirous of entertaining them well, in return for their late +hospitality, we provided abundance to eat, and showed them +everything about the ship that we thought likely to amuse them. Of +all the wonders they had ever seen on board, there was nothing +which seemed to impress them so strongly with a sense of our +superiority as the forge, and the work which the armourer +performed with it. The welding of two pieces of iron especially +excited their admiration, and I never saw Iligliuk express so much +astonishment at anything before. Even in this her superior good +sense was observable, for it was evident that the utility of what +she saw going on was what forced itself upon her mind; and she +watched every stroke of the hammer and each blast of the bellows +with extreme eagerness, while numbers of the other Esquimaux +looked stupidly on, without expressing the smallest curiosity or +interest in the operation, except by desiring to have some +spear-heads fashioned out by this means. Iligliuk was always very +much entertained also by pictures having any relation to the +Esquimaux in other parts, and derived great entertainment from a +description of any difference in their clothes, utensils, or +weapons. Of these the sail in an Esquimaux boat seemed particularly +to attract her notice; but, in general, she had no inclination +to admit the inferiority of her, own tribe to any other. She +was always extremely inquisitive about her own sex, whether +_Innuees_[*] or _Kabloonas_, listening with eager attention to any +account of their dress or occupations, and in common, I believe, +with all the rest of the Esquimaux, wondered how we came to travel +to their country without our wives. The assurance that many among +us were not married, they received with evident incredulity. + +[Footnote: Esquimaux.] + +On the 13th, a number of the natives from the Winter Island huts +formed a second detachment, and set off for the other village. +They carried their goods on sledges as before, even to the +exclusion of poor old Hikkeiera, whom some of our gentlemen +overtook crawling after his companions with a stick, and who, but +for their remonstrances, might that day have finished his +pilgrimage on earth. They insisted, however, on his being placed +on one of the sledges, which was accordingly complied with; but, +on their arrival at the village, his companions left him lying +there till their huts were built. All the Esquimaux pressed our +gentlemen very strongly to sleep at the village; but one of the +women gave Mr. Bird an indifferent specimen of her hospitality, by +picking his pocket of a handkerchief, though not so dexterously as +to escape detection. The few who visited the ships to-day told us +that they were all about to leave Winter Island on the morrow; and +Okotook and Iligliuk, who had not yet returned, came on board +among the rest to pay a last visit. I gave the former a large +piece of oak wood for a bow and two arrows, a second iron +spear-head, and various other articles, to add to the stock of +wealth he had from time to time received from us. As these good +folks found themselves perfectly at home in my cabin, I was +usually in the habit of continuing my occupations when they were +there, without being disturbed by them. Being now engaged in +writing, my attention was unexpectedly directed towards them by +Iligliuk's suddenly starting from her seat, moving quickly towards +the door, and, without saying a word either to me or any of the +officers present, hastening directly on deck. Okotook, indeed, as +he followed her out of the cabin, turned round and said "Good-by," +of which expression he had learned the meaning, and then, without +giving us time to return the compliment, they both hurried out of +the ship, leaving us in some astonishment at this singular +leave-taking, which we then supposed to be the last. + +We could now begin to perceive, from day to day, that the snow on +shore was diminishing. How slow this process was, may, however, be +understood by the fact, that it was necessary to make a mark on +some stone to be assured it was thus receding. Our snow-wall had +indeed settled down nearly a foot by the gradual diminution of the +blocks of which it was composed; but the thawing had been +artificially assisted by the black cloth hung against it. Five +ravens were seen to-day, all quite black; four of them were flying +in pairs. + +On the 22d a number of the Esquimaux came to the ships with a +sledge, and among the rest my late host Arnaneelia and his wife, +the latter having the front of her jacket adorned with numberless +strings of beads that we had given her, arranged with exact +uniformity, to which, in the fashion of their dresses and the +disposition of their ornaments, these people always rigidly +adhere. Aneekta had scarcely reached the cabin when she produced a +little ivory comb and a pair of handsome mittens, which she +presented to Mr. Edwards, at the same time thanking him for the +attention he had shown her on an occasion when she had been taken +in a fit alongside the Fury, from which she was recovered by +bleeding. This expression of gratitude, in which she was heartily +joined by her husband, was extremely gratifying to us; as it +served, in some degree, to redeem these people in our estimation +from the imputation of ingratitude, which is, indeed, one of their +greatest failings. They stated having seen two reindeer the +preceding day going over the ice to the main land. They spoke of +this with great pleasure: and we were ourselves not displeased +with the prospect of changing our diet for a little venison. They +now became extremely urgent with us for wood to make bows and +arrows, most of their own having, with the childishness that +accompanied their first barterings, been parted with to our +officers and men. Having several broken oars which could be turned +to little or no account on board, we were enabled, at a small +expense of useful stores, to furnish them very abundantly with +wood for this purpose. Arnaneelia also informed us that Okotook, +who had been unwell for some days, was now much worse, and seemed, +as he described it, to be labouring under a violent pulmonary +complaint. On the circumstance being mentioned to Mr. Skeoch, he +kindly volunteered to go to the village, and accordingly took his +seat on the sledge, accompanied also by Mr. Sherer. They carried +with them a quantity of bread-dust to be distributed among the +Esquimaux at the huts, their success in seal-catching having +lately been indifferent. + +A number of Esquimaux came to the ships on the 25th, +notwithstanding a strong breeze from the S.W.b.W., with a +considerable snowdrift. From these people we learned that +Okotook's complaint had increased since Mr. Skeoch's visit, and +that he was now extremely ill. Mr. Bushnan immediately offered to +go to the huts for the purpose of bringing him on board, where, by +Mr. Edwards's kind attentions, and the enjoyment of warmth and +dryness, we hoped soon to recover him. Mr. Bushnan, therefore, +without waiting for the return of the sledges, set out for the +village at an early hour in the forenoon, accompanied by the +sergeant of marines. At eleven at night our party returned on +board, bringing on a sledge Okotook, Iligliuk, and their son. That +Iligliuk would accompany her husband, I, of course, took for +granted and wished; but as the boy could do us no good, and was, +moreover, a desperate eater, I had desired Mr. Bushnan to try +whether a slight objection to his being of the party would induce +Okotook to leave him with his other relations. This he had +cautiously done; but, the instant the proposal was made, Okotook, +without any remark, began to take off the clothes he had himself +just dressed in to set out. No farther objection being made, +however, he again prepared for the journey, Iligliuk assisting him +with the most attentive solicitude. Before the invalid was +suffered to leave his apartment, some of the by-standers sent for +Ewerat, now better known to our people by the undignified +appellation of the "conjuror." Ewerat, on this occasion, +maintained a degree of gravity and reserve calculated to inspire +somewhat more respect than we had hitherto been disposed to +entertain for him in that capacity. Placing himself at the door of +the apartment opposite Okotook, who was still seated on the bed, +he held both his thumbs in his mouth, keeping up a silent but +solemn converse with his _toorngow_,[*] the object of which was, +as Mr. Bushnan presently afterward found, to inquire into the +efficacy and propriety of the sick man's removal. Presently he +began to utter a variety of confused and inarticulate sounds; and +it being at length understood that a favourable answer had been +given, Okotook was carried out and placed on the sledge, Ewerat +still mumbling his thumbs and muttering his incantations as +before. When the party took their leave, there were a great many +doleful faces among those that remained behind; and Mr. Bushnan +said that the whole scene more resembled the preparations for a +funeral than the mere removal of a sick man. When the sledge moved +on, Ewerat was the only one who had not a "Good-by!" ready, he +being as seriously engaged as at first, and continuing so as long +as our people could observe him. + +[Footnote: Familiar spirit.] + +Okotook was extremely ill on his arrival, having been three hours +on the sledge, and Iligliuk, who, as Mr. Bushnan told me, had +scarcely taken her eyes off her husband's face the whole time, +seemed almost worn out with fatigue and anxiety. A bed of wolf +skins being prepared for him, Okotook was soon placed upon it, and +such remedies applied as Mr. Edwards judged necessary for his +complaint, which was inflammation of the lungs to a degree that, +if left to itself, or even to Ewerat, would soon have proved +fatal, or, at best, have terminated in consumption. + +On the 26th, a southeast wind brought a heavy fall of snow in +flakes much larger than before. The thermometers on the ice at +noon stood at 23° in both aspects. We heard from Illumea, who came +to see her son Okotook, that a part of the natives had gone still +farther to the westward upon the ice, one spot not affording +sufficient subsistence for the whole of them. Our patient felt +much the better for a comfortable night's lodging, and now +submitted with great patience to the application of a blister, +though I believe his confidence in our mode of cure was afterward +shaken for a time by the pain which it occasioned. Both he and +Iligliuk, however, seemed very sensibly to feel the comforts and +advantages of their present quarters; and a "coyenna" (thanks) now +and then fell from their lips. Nothing could exceed the attention +which the latter paid to her husband; she kept her eyes almost +constantly fixed upon him, and seemed anxious to anticipate every +want. + +One of Okotook's brothers had arrived from the huts, bringing with +him some walrus-flesh to tempt the appetite of the invalid, whose +stomach, however, very fortunately for his complaint, was not +disposed to this kind of delicacy. When his brother was about to +return, Okotook took it into his head to send his son away with +him, probably because he heard they had the day before killed two +seals, which afforded better feeding than we had to give him; be +this as it may, we were not sorry that he went, and the boy +himself seemed no less pleased; for, without playfellows or +amusement of any kind, his time hung very heavily on his hands +while he remained on board. It was amusing to see Okotook take a +dose of physic for the first time in his life to-day. He knew its +taste was not pleasant, but this was certainly not all that he +dreaded; for, before he put the cup to his lips with one hand, he +held on by his wife with the other, and she by him with both hers, +as though they expected an explosion, or some such catastrophe, as +the immediate effect of the potion; nor did he venture to relinquish +his hold till the taste began to leave his mouth. The quantity of +water which he drank in the course of the four-and-twenty hours +is beyond conception; and the cabin fire could scarcely, by the +melting of snow, furnish enough for their consumption. These people +are extremely particular as to the purity of the water they drink. +Some that had been melted in our steamer, and which I thought very +good, neither of them would touch, or, at least, always spat out +again. If the water was much above the temperature of 32°, they +also disliked it, and immediately put snow into it to cool it +down. Iligliuk, who came on board with one side of her hair loose, +loosened the other also to-day, in consequence of her fancying +Okotook worse, though it was only the annoyance of the blister that +made him uneasy; for even in this sequestered corner of the globe +dishevelled locks bespeak mourning. It was not, however, with her +the mere semblance of grief, for she was really much distressed +throughout the day, all our endeavours not availing to make her +understand how one pain was to be removed by inflicting another. + +Captain Lyon being desirous of having some little clothes made as +models of the Esquimaux costume, and thinking Iligliuk's present +leisure afforded her a good opportunity of making them, had +yesterday obtained her promise that she would do so. Okotook being +now very much better, and she having herself resumed her usual +gayety in consequence, I pressed her to commence her work, and +placed the skins before her, when she said that she could not do +them here, as she had no needles. These being supplied her, she +now complained of, having no _t=o=okt~oo-e-w=all~oo_ (reindeer +sinew), their usual thread. This difficulty, unfortunately for +Iligliuk's credit, was as easily overcome as the other; and when +scissors, pattern clothes, and all the other requisites were laid +before her, she was at length driven to the excuse that Okotook's +illness would not permit her to do it. Seeing us half laughing at +the absurdity of these excuses, and half angry at the selfish +indolence which prompted them, she at last flatly asserted that +Okotook desired her not to work, which, though we knew it to be a +falsehood, the latter did not deny. We then supposed that some +superstition might be at the bottom of this; but having, a little +while after, by way of experiment, thrown Iligliuk some loose +beads upon the table, she eagerly employed herself for half an +hour in stringing them that not one might be lost; which proved +that, where her own gratification or interest were concerned, +Okotook's illness was not suffered to interfere. This anecdote +shows, in a strong light, that deep-rooted selfishness, which, in +numberless instances, notwithstanding the superiority of +Iligliuk's understanding, detracted from the amiability of her +disposition. The fact was, that she did not feel inclined so far +to exert herself as to comply with Captain Lyon's request; and the +slight degree of gratitude and proper feeling which was requisite +to overcome that disinclination was altogether wanting. + +I have related this anecdote just as it occurred, with the hope of +showing the true disposition of these people, and not with a view +of unduly depreciating the character of our friend Iligliuk. I am, +however, compelled to acknowledge, that, in proportion as the +superior understanding of this extraordinary woman became more and +more developed, her head (for what female head is indifferent to +praise?) began to be turned with the general attention and +numberless presents she received. The superior decency and even +modesty of her behaviour had combined, with her intellectual +qualities, to raise her, in our estimation, far above her +companions; and I often heard others express what I could not but +agree in, that for Iligliuk alone, of all the Esquimaux women, +that kind of respect could be entertained which modesty in a +female never fails to command in our sex. Thus regarded, she had +always been freely admitted into the ships, the quartermasters at +the gangway never thinking of refusing entrance to the "wise +woman," as they called her. Whenever any explanation was necessary +between the Esquimaux and us, Iligliuk was sent for as an +interpreter; information was chiefly obtained through her, and she +thus found herself rising into a degree of consequence to which, +but for us, she could never have attained. Notwithstanding a more +than ordinary share of good sense on her part, it will not, +therefore, be wondered at if she became giddy with her exaltation, +assuming certain airs which, though infinitely diversified in +their operation according to circumstances, perhaps universally +attend a too sudden accession of good fortune in every child of +Adam from the equator to the poles. The consequence was, that +Iligliuk was soon spoiled; considered her admission into the ships +and most of the cabins no longer as an indulgence, but a right; +ceased to return the slightest acknowledgment for any kindness or +presents; became listless and inattentive in unravelling the +meaning of our questions, and careless whether her answers +conveyed the information we desired. In short, Iligliuk in +February and Iligliuk in April were confessedly very different +persons; and it was at last amusing to recollect, though not very +easy to persuade one's self, that the woman who now sat demurely +in a chair, so confidently expecting the notice of those around +her, and she who had at first, with eager and wild delight, +assisted in cutting snow for the building of a hut, and with the +hope of obtaining a single needle, were actually one and the same +individual. + +Togolat came down to the ships to-day to see her brother Okotook; +she was accompanied by Arnalooa, and on their arrival they were +both sent for into the cabin. We observed, however, that they +required an unusual degree of solicitation to make them go near +Okotook, or even to the side of the cabin, where he lay concealed +by a screen; and, after all, they remained in the opposite corner +next the door; and, having talked freely to the invalid for some +time, took their leave without seeing him. In the evening, after +they were gone, we found that this unfortunate though well-intended +visit was occasioning great distress to Okotook, who talked for two +hours almost incessantly about "Arnalooa's having seen him," which, +it seems, ought not to have been the case. What misfortune was to +be apprehended in consequent of this event we could not learn; but +he spoke of it in a kind of agony, and was evidently labouring +under the influence of some powerful though absurd superstition +respecting it. Towards night he suffered a dreadful bleeding at the +nose, followed by much sickness at the stomach, which, together +with the phanton of Arnalooa, that still haunted his imagination, +combined to make him extremely unwell for some hours. The next day, +however, he was free from complaint of any kind, and began once +more to put on a smiling countenance. + +The caulking of our bows being now completed, the ships were +released from the ice by sawing round them; an operation which +caused them to rise in the water six inches and a half, in +consequence of the increased buoyancy occasioned by the winter's +expenditure. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + +As there was an increased extent of open water in the offing, and +the weather being now, to all appearance, tolerably settled, I +determined on sending away a travelling party under Captain Lyon. +It consisted of Lieutenant Palmer, five seamen, and three marines, +the whole being victualled for twenty days, and furnished with a +tent, fuel, and every other convenience of which such a journey +would admit. The baggage was placed on light sledges, resembling +those used by Captain Franklin on his late journey to the shores +of the Polar Sea, made out of staves shaved thin, six feet eight +inches long, fourteen inches broad, and turned up before. Being +secured entirely with thongs of hide sunk by grooves into the wood +to keep them from wearing, they were perfectly flexible, so as to +be in no danger of breaking on uneven ground. Each individual of +the party was furnished with one of these, which also served to +sleep and sit upon; the weight dragged by each of the men being +about one hundred and twenty pounds, and that of the officers from +ninety to ninety-five. Each person had also a pair of snow-shoes, +a deerskin jacket and boots for sleeping in, and another pair of +boots of water-tight sealskin. + +The general tenour of Captain Lyon's instructions was, "after +crossing to the continent, to proceed along that coast to the +northward, carefully examining any bend or inlet he might meet +with, so as to leave no doubt, if possible, of its actual extent +and communications, thereby preventing the necessity of the ships +entering it on their arrival there." I added, also, the necessary +directions for remarking everything of interest relating to the +tides, and the natural productions of the country; and I limited +Captain Lyon to the end of the month in returning, to avoid the +possibility of detaining the expedition. + +Their preparations being completed, our travellers left the ships +under a salute of three cheers from both the crews, and +accompanied by a large party of officers and men to assist them, +for the first few hours. A day or two after their departures a +supply of provisions was lodged on shore, according to a plan +previously agreed on, in case of our being forced out to sea with +the ice before their return. Arrangements were also made for +putting an officer and two men on shore, as a guard to this as +well as to the clock, tent, or any other articles that might be +left behind, in the event of an occurrence of this nature. + +In the course of the forenoon of the 15th, a message to our +medical gentlemen announced the fall of James Pringle, one of the +seamen of the Hecla, from her mizen-topmast-head to the deck; and +in a few minutes after I was much shocked in receiving Lieutenant +Hoppner's report of his death, no sign of life having indeed +appeared in him from the first moment after his fall. On +examination, it was found that the base of the scull was +fractured, and the neck also dislocated. A grave was directed to +be dug near the observatory, and arrangements were made for the +funeral taking place on the following Sunday. + +On the 16th, Ewerat, with his wife and family, arrived at the +ships, bringing with them all their goods and chattels, and with +the intention of taking up their abode upon the ice near us. They +accordingly built their hut about a hundred yards from the Fury's +stern, but whether with the view of living upon us, or the seals +that frequent the bay, we were at first at a loss to conjecture. +Ewerat's household consisted not only of his own family, but of +Appokiuk and Itkamuk, the former of whom having no husband, and +the latter no relative, they both seemed to be fairly "on the +parish." Besides this establishment, a second, on a smaller scale, +also made its appearance in our neighbourhood, consisting of a +very little man, named _Koo-il-li-ti-uk_, nicknamed by the sailors +"John Bull," and his pretty little wife _Arnal=o=oa_, whose zeal +in bringing up her husband's share of the seahorses I have before +described. These persons, being eight in number, had determined on +travelling to Amitioke for the ensuing summer, influenced +probably, in some degree, by the hope of falling in with us again, +as they knew that we were going in that direction. Be this, +however, as it may, it was soon evident that they intended making +the most of us while we remained neighbours; for, on the 17th, +though the weather was favourable, and they had no food of their +own, they made no effort to procure any, except from the ships, to +which the women brought their _ootkooseeks_ for bread-dust. Though +I objected to encouraging this, and told them we should give them +nothing if they did not also labour for themselves, they were all +such favourites with our people that I believe they found it +answer very well; contriving not only to get plenty of food, but +also a number of useful presents. They made, indeed, some return +for this, by the usual barter of mittens, of which our people were +now furnished with an abundant supply. + +On the 19th, after an impressive sermon delivered by Mr. Fisher, +the last mournful duties were performed over the remains of our +deceased shipmate. Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the +evening of the 21st, when, soon after eight o'clock, Captain Lyon +and his party were seen on their return over the hills, and, being +met by a number of the officers and men from the ships, arrived on +board before ten, when I was happy to find our travellers in good +health, excepting a little snow-blindness and "foot-foundering," +of which they soon recovered. The result of this journey of +Captain Lyon's served to excite very reasonable hopes that he had +seen the northeastern extreme of the great peninsula, round which +we entertained the most sanguine expectations of shortly finding +the desired passage into the Polar Sea. + +On the 23d, our neighbours the Esquimaux, who had long, by their +own account, been setting off for Amitioke, at length began in +earnest to pack up for their departure. As soon as their +preparations were finished, I sent for them all on board, and gave +them one of their own sledges, of which they were much in want, +for carrying their goods, a couple of boarding-pikes, some knives, +and several tin canisters filled with bread-dust, for their +journey. These presents had scarcely been made them, when we had +reason to apprehend so sudden an influx of wealth might produce +serious effects, especially upon the women, whose joy threw them +into immoderate fits of laughter, almost amounting to hysterics, +which were succeeded by a flood of tears. The men seemed thankful, +though less noisy in the expression of their acknowledgments. As +soon as some degree of composure was restored, we accompanied them +to their baggage, which they had stowed on two of the small +travelling sledges given them by Captain Lyon, but which they now +shifted to their own. When all was ready, and some other valuable +presents had been added to their stock by Captain Lyon, they +proceeded to the northward, the women assisting to drag the +sledge, for they had only one large dog and one puppy. On taking +their departure, these good-humoured and ever-cheerful people +greeted us with three cheers in the true Kabloona style, a mode of +salutation they had observed once or twice among us, and +frequently practised for their amusement and ours. On the 24th, we +found they had only proceeded a few miles, as "John Bull" once +more made his appearance on board, and returned to his companions +in the evening. From this specimen of their travelling, of which +we had, as yet, little experience, we had great reason to hope +that their days' journeys would be found but short ones, and that, +therefore, our distance round the northeastern point of the +American continent was not very considerable. The show fell +softer, and more melting was going on to-day than on any before +observed, though only a few black tips of the rocks were yet +visible on shore. The animals now began to appear in greater +numbers; for on the 25th, a flock of nearly two hundred +long-tailed ducks were swimming about in the open water to the +southeast of the point. Some of the Esquimaux who came from the +nearest western village also reported having seen a great many +reindeer; but they had not yet succeeded in killing any. + +At the close of the month of May it was a matter of general +observation, and, of course, of general regret, how few symptoms +of thawing had yet appeared, either on shore or on the ice. +Naturally pursuing our usual comparison with the circumstances of +the former winter passed in these regions, it was impossible not +to recollect that Melville Island had, on the same day two years +before, advanced full as far as the country now before us in +throwing off its winter covering. The parts of the land which were +now the most bare were the smooth round tops of the hills, on +which here and there occurred a little pool of water, from which, +taking all together within half a mile round the ships, we should +at this time have had great difficulty in filling half a tun. +There were also on the lower lands, a few dark uncovered patches, +looking, when viewed from the hills, like islets in an extensive +sea. Vegetation seemed labouring to commence, and a few tufts of +the _saxifraga oppositifolia_, when closely examined, discovered +some signs of life. A botanist, in short, might have considered +vegetation as begun, but in the popular acceptation of the word it +certainly had not. Such was the state of things on shore at the +conclusion of the month of May. Upon the ice appearances were not +more promising. Except in the immediate neighbourhood of the +ships, where, from the constant trampling and the laying of +various stores upon the ice, some heat had artificially been +absorbed, it would have been difficult to point out in what +respect any advances towards dissolution had been made upon the +upper surface, where six or seven inches of snow yet remained in +every part. Here again, without any undue partiality for our old +winter-quarters, it was natural, as well as reasonable, to bear in +mind, that before this time we had there experienced several hours +of hard rain, than which nothing proves more effectual in +dissolving the ice. The consequence was, that for the last week in +May, at Melville Island, the surface of the ice had assumed quite +a green appearance; while here it was still as white as a covering +of snow could make it. + +Under these circumstances I came to the determination, now that +the ships were ready for sea, to try what could be effected +towards their release, by sawing and cutting the ice; for it was +vexatious to see open water daily in the offing, and not to be +able to take advantage of it. Arrangements were therefore made for +getting everything, except the tent and instruments, on board the +next day, and for commencing this more laborious occupation on the +following Monday. + +On the 1st of June, having launched a boat at the mouth of the +bay, I went to sound in that neighbourhood and along the eastern +side of the island, preparatory to marking out the intended canal. +A good deal of ice still remained attached to the land; but as far +as we could distinguish to the N.N.E. there was a lane of clear +water wide enough for the navigation of the ships. + +On the morning of the 3d, at six A.M., both the ships' companies, +under their respective officers, were set to work upon the ice. A +line was accurately marked out from each of the Fury's quarters, +where they were fifty feet apart, diverging to two hundred and +fifty at the edge of the floe, the latter being distant from the +ships two thousand and twenty feet, or just one third of a +nautical mile. It was proposed to make a cut through the ice with +the saws, along the two lines thus marked out, and then a +transverse section here and there, the divergency of the sides +being intended to facilitate the removal of the pieces thus +detached by first pulling them out with strong purchases, and then +floating them down the canal to the sea without. Nothing could +exceed the alacrity with which this laborious work was undertaken, +and continued daily from six in the morning till eight at night, +with the intermission only of mealtimes: nor could anything be +more lively and interesting than the scene which now presented +itself to an observer on the southeast point. The day was +beautifully clear, the sea open as far as the eye could stretch to +the northward, and the "busy hum" of our people's voices could at +times be heard mingling with the cheerful though fantastic songs +with which the Greenland sailors are accustomed at once to beguile +their labour, and to keep the necessary time in the action of +sawing the ice. The whole prospect, together with the hopes and +associations excited by it, was, to persons cooped up as we had +been, exhilarating beyond conception. + +In the course of the first week we had completed the two side +cuts, and also two shorter ones in the space between the ships; +making in all a length of two thousand three hundred feet on each +side of the intended canal, the thickness of the ice being in +general four feet, but in one or two places (where the junction of +the sea-ice with the bay-floe occasioned some squeezing) above ten +feet and a half, scarcely allowing our longest saws to work. +Laborious as this part of the operation had been, we soon found it +likely to prove the least troublesome of the whole; for, on +endeavouring to pull out the pieces in the manner at first +intended, every effort failed, till at length we were reduced to +the necessity of cutting each block diagonally before it could be +moved from its place. After a week's experience, we also learned +that much time had been lost in completing the whole of the +lateral cuts at once; for these, partly from frost, and partly by +the closing together of the sides of the canal, all required +sawing a second, and in some places even a third time. It was +surprising, also, to see how powerful a resistance was occasioned +by the "sludge" produced in sawing, or, as the sailors called it, +the "sawdust," continuing in the cut, and appearing to act, like +oil interposed between two plates of glass, in keeping the masses +united. In some cases, also, a saw was squeezed so tight by the +pressure of the ice in the cut, that it became necessary to enter +a second in order to release it, by sawing out a circular plug of +ice completely round it. Fatiguing as this work proved to the men, +I directed it to be continued to-day, the sea remaining so open on +the outside as to give every encouragement to our exertions. + +One of our people, in walking over the island, met with a swan's +nest, which Captain Lyon went out to see, and made a drawing of +it. It was built of moss-peat, being no less than five feet ten +inches in length, four feet nine inches wide, and two feet deep. +The hole of entrance in the top was eighteen inches wide. Two +eggs, each weighing about eight ounces, were found in the nest, in +which the old birds were also sitting at first, but too wild to be +approached. The eggs are of a cream or brownish white colour, in +some parts a little clouded by a darker tinge. The female +subsequently laid a third egg, and soon afterward both birds +appeared to have wholly deserted the nest. + +In the second week our progress with the canal had been +considerable, it being now completed within two hundred yards of +the Fury's stern. + +At the conclusion of the day's labour on the 19th, we had every +prospect of getting to sea in forty-eight hours more; but, early +on the following morning, when the ebb or northeasterly tide had +made, and was assisted by a breeze from the southward, the whole +body of sea-ice came forcibly in contact with the bay-floe, which +was now so weakened by our cutting as to split the whole way from +the edge up to the Hecla's stern, a little to the westward of the +canal, the latter being almost immediately closed with a +considerable crush, but without affecting the ships which lay +beyond it. The closing of our artificial canal had the effect of +partially opening a natural one at the place where the ice had +just been detached; but, as this was incomplete, coming gradually +up to a point astern of the Hecla, we were at a loss to know on +which of the two our labour would best be employed. An attempt was +first made by four strong purchases, stretched from side to side +across the new crack, to pull the parts together again, and thus +to leave our original canal _in statu quo_. All our power, +however, being insufficient to accomplish this, we commenced with +the saws upon the upper part of the crack, with the intention of +widening it sufficiently for the passage of the ships. In this +work we had made considerable progress, when, towards evening, it +was perceived that _this_ was now closing, and our former canal +reopening by the action of the wind and tide. Relinquishing our +last attempt, therefore, we lost no time in floating some heavy +pieces of ice into the canal, to serve as wedges for keeping the +sides apart, in case of any fresh pressure from without again +disposing them to close. + +At two A.M. on the 21st, the piece of the floe which formed the +separation between the two canals drifted bodily outward, as far +as the rocks at the mouth of the bay and the ice that lay upon +them would permit, taking with it a heavy-grounded mass that lay +near the Hecla, and on which it had before been turning as on a +pile or pivot; shortly after a second mass on the eastern side of +the canal broke off, the separation taking place upon the line +where the ice had been weakened by the sand we had laid upon it. +Our work was now at an end, and we had only to wait for a +northerly or westerly wind to release us from our present +"besetment," for, in fact, it was now nothing more. Directions +were therefore given for closely watching the motion of the ice, +both from the ships as well as by regular visits to the shore at +the end of every watch. + +It now becomes my painful duty to turn from these busy +occupations, where animation, cheerfulness, and hope prevailed, to +the sad and solemn scenes of sickness and death; for with both of +these did it please the Almighty to visit us at this period! +William Souter, quartermaster of the Fury, who, in the early part +of this week, had complained of a slight sickness at the stomach, +and, having been quite relieved, was, in consequence, discharged +to duty, was again, on the morning of the 21st, affected in a +similar manner while on deck. On the 24th, his alarming symptoms +had so much subsided, that increasing hopes were entertained of +his continuing to do well. These flattering appearances, however, +received a sudden check about noon on the 25th, after which time +he began rapidly, though gradually, to droop, and between six and +seven in the evening breathed his last. + +The impossibility of removing Souter from the sick bay, after the +last alarming change took place, rendered his death, or, rather, +the convulsive struggles which for some hours preceded that event, +a dreadful trial to poor Reid, whose state had for some time past +been scarcely better, the difficulty in his breathing having +increased to a most distressing degree. When Souter was dying, +Reid remarked that he should not be long after him; and on the +26th, when Mr. Fisher had attended and prayed with him, he said +that he should go at one bell (half past six), and then enumerated +all his clothes to one of the men, who, at his request, wrote them +down for him. After four o'clock he did not speak, and, gradually +sinking, expired at the time he had mentioned. + +On the 28th, the remains of our deceased shipmates were committed +to the earth, with every solemnity that so mournful an occasion +demanded. They were interred in one grave, on a rising ground a +few hundred yards from the sea to the northeastward of the ships. +A handsome tomb of stone and mortar was built over the spot, +having at one end a stone let in, with the usual information +engraved on it. The sides were plastered with a kind of viscous +clay found in one of the ponds, and the top covered with tufts of +the purple saxifrage. The duties of the ships now permitting it, +Captain Lyon employed his men in building a similar tomb over the +grave of Pringle. + + +END OF VOL. I. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A +NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN +ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 1 (OF 2)*** + + +******* This file should be named 13512-8.txt or 13512-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/5/1/13512 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/old/13512-8.zip b/old/13512-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b00657d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13512-8.zip diff --git a/old/13512.txt b/old/13512.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..17d2947 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13512.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9477 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a +Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an +Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 1 (of 2), by Sir William Edward +Parry + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the +Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North +Pole, Volume 1 (of 2) + +Author: Sir William Edward Parry + +Release Date: September 22, 2004 [eBook #13512] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF +A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN +ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 1 (OF 2)*** + + +E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Tony Browne, and the Project Gutenberg +Online Distributed Proofreading Team from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions + + + +Transcriber's Note: + The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced long. + The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the + vowel is to be pronounced short. + These characters do not occur otherwise. + + + + + +THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC +TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, +VOLUME I + +by + +SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S. + +In Two Volumes. + +1844 + + + + + + + +[Illustration CAPTAIN W.E. PARRY R.N.] + + + + +PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT + +The two volumes herewith presented to the public contain an +uninterrupted narrative, in Captain Parry's own words, of the five +voyages made by that distinguished navigator, under the sanction +of the British government, in search of a passage from the eastern +to the western side of the American Continent, through the Arctic +Ocean. Although abbreviated, the curtailment has been effected, +not by any change in the language of the original writer, but +merely by omitting all such details as were not inviting to the +general reader; and, in a word, changing the character of the work +from that of an official report to that of a narrative. The effort +has been to preserve all interesting and amusing particulars; to +record all facts and transactions of importance; to present an +accurate though brief notice of all valuable accessions to +geographic as well as general knowledge, effected in the progress +of the voyages; and, at the same time, to keep the reader's +attention ever on the alert by the rapid and uninterrupted +succession of striking incidents. + +It is hoped that the aim here designated has been accomplished; +and that, in the abridged narrative of Parry's Voyages, there will +be found matter, not only to interest the reader for amusement, +but also to improve. The scenes and adventures recorded by the +navigator are in the highest degree novel and remarkable; and it +cannot be other than profitable to know what perils were +encountered, what courage, firmness, and ingenuity were displayed, +what moral and physical influences were developed, and what +triumphs of human skill were achieved, in the progress of voyages +undertaken solely to advance the interests of science. + +H. & B. + +New-York, May, 1840. + + + + +CONTENTS +of +THE FIRST VOLUME + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110 deg. +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113 deg. 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 681/4 deg.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE. + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + + + +TECHNICAL TERMS PECULIAR TO THE NAVIGATION AMONG ICE + + +BAY-ICE.--Ice newly formed upon the surface of the sea. The +expression is, however, applied also to ice a foot or two in +thickness. + +BESET.--The situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice. + +BIGHT.--An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name +it is sometimes called. + +BLINK.--A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere, often assuming an +arch-like form, which is generally perceptible over ice or land +covered with snow. The blink of land, as well as that over _large_ +quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast. + +BORE.--The operation of "boring" through loose ice consists in +entering it under a press of sail, and forcing the ship through by +separating the masses. + +CALF.--A mass of ice lying under a floe near its margin, and, when +disengaged from that position, rising with violence to the surface +of the water. See TONGUE. + +CLEAR WATER.--Any part of the sea unencumbered with ice. + +CROW'S NEST.--A small circular house like a cask, fixed at the +masthead, in which the look-out man sits, either to guide the ship +through the ice or to give notice of whales. + +DOCK.--In a floe may be natural or artificial; the former being +simply a small "bight," in which a ship is placed to secure her +from the danger of external pressure; and the latter, a square +space cut out with saws for a similar purpose. + +FIELD.--A sheet of ice generally of great thickness, and of too +great extent to be seen over from a ship's masthead. + +FLINCHING.--The operation of stripping a sea-animal of its skin +and blubber. + +FLOE.--The same as a field, except that its extent can be +distinguished from a ship's masthead. A "bay-floe" is a floe of +ice newly formed. + +FLOE-PIECE.--An expression generally applied to small pieces of +floes, not more than a furlong square. + +A HOLE or POOL of Water.--A small space of "clear water," when the +rest of the sea is covered with ice. + +HUMMOCK.--A mass of ice rising to a considerable height above the +general level of a floe, and forming a part of it. Hummocks are +originally raised by the pressure of floes against each other. + +LAND-ICE.--Ice attached to the land, either in floes or in heavy +grounded masses lying near the shore. + +LANE of Water.--A narrow channel among the masses of ice, through +which a boat or ship may pass. + +LEAD.--A channel through the ice. A ship is said to "take the +right lead" when she follows a channel conducting her into a more +navigable sea, and _vice versa_. + +MAKING-OFF Blubber.--The operation of putting it into casks. + +NIPPED.--The situation of a ship when forcibly pressed by ice. + +PACK.--A large body of ice, consisting of separate masses, lying +close together, and whose extent cannot be seen. + +PANCAKE-ICE.--Newly formed ice, assuming the peculiar conformation +of numberless patches of "sludge," and giving the surface of the +sea the appearance of a handsome pavement. + +PATCH of Ice.--The same as a pack, but of small dimensions. + +SAILING-ICE.--Ice of which the masses are so much separated as to +allow a ship to sail among them. + +SALLYING a Ship.--The operation of causing her to roll, by the men +running in a body from side to side, so as to relieve her from the +adhesion and friction of the young ice around her. + +SLUDGE.--Ice of the consistence of thick honey, offering little +impediment to a ship while in this state, but greatly favouring +the formation of a "bay-floe." + +STREAM.--A long and narrow, but generally continuous, collection +of loose ice. + +TONGUE.--A mass of ice projecting under water from an iceberg or +floe, and generally distinguishable at a considerable depth of +smooth water. It differs from a "calf" in being fixed to, or a +part of the larger body. + +WATER-SKY.--A dark appearance in the sky, indicating "clear water" +in that direction, and forming a striking contrast with the +"blink" over land or ice. + +YOUNG-ICE.--Nearly the same as "bay-ice," but generally applied to +ice more recently formed than the latter. + + + + +VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +Lieutenant Parry was appointed to the command of his majesty's +ship the Hecla, a bomb of 375 tons, on the 16th of January, 1819; +and the Griper, gun brig, 180 tons, commissioned by Lieutenant +Matthew Liddon, was at the same time directed to put herself under +his orders. The object of the expedition was to attempt the +discovery of a Northwest Passage into the Pacific. The vessels +were rigged after the manner of a bark, as being the most +convenient among the ice, and requiring the smallest number of men +to work them. They were furnished with provisions and stores for +two years; in addition to which, there was a large supply of fresh +meats and soups preserved in tin cases, essence of malt and hops, +essence of spruce, and other extra stores, adapted to cold +climates and a long voyage. The ships were ballasted entirely with +coals; an abundance of warm clothing was allowed, a wolfskin +blanket being supplied to each officer and man, besides a +housing-cloth, similar to that with which wagons are usually +covered, to make a sort of tent on board. Although the finding a +passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was the main object of +the expedition, yet the ascertaining many points of natural +history, geography, &c., was considered a most important object, +never to be lost sight of. After they had passed the latitude of +65 deg. north, they were from time to time to throw overboard a +bottle, closely sealed, containing a paper, stating the date and +position at which it was launched. Whenever they landed on the +northern coast of North America, they were to erect a pole, having +a flag, and bury a bottle at the foot of it, containing an +abstract of their proceedings and future intentions, for the +information of Lieutenant Franklin, who had been sent on a land +expedition to explore that coast from the mouth of the Coppermine +River of Hearne. + +According to the official instructions, the interests of science +were not neglected, and many important facts were made out; among +the most curious, it may be mentioned, that it appears to be +proved that the North Pole is not the coldest point of the Arctic +hemisphere, but that the place where the expedition wintered is +one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful +Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the +Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival +off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir +James Lancaster's Sound. + + +In the beginning of May, 1819, the Hecla and Griper were towed +down the river; the guns and gunner's stores were received on +board on the 6th; and the instruments and chronometers were +embarked on the evening of the 8th, when the two ships anchored at +the Nore. The Griper, being a slower sailer, was occasionally +taken in tow by the Hecla, and they rounded the northern point of +the Orkneys, at the distance of two miles and a half; on Thursday, +the 20th of the same month. + +Nothing of moment occurred for several days; but the wind veered +to the westward on the 30th, and increased to a fresh gale, with +an irregular sea and heavy rain, which brought us under our +close-reefed topsails. At half past one, P.M., we began to cross +the space in which the "Sunken Land of Buss" is laid down in +Steel's chart from England to Greenland; and, in the course of +this and the following day, we tried for soundings several times +without success. + +Early in the morning of the 18th of June, in standing to the +northward, we fell in with the first "stream" of ice we had seen, +and soon after saw several icebergs. At daylight the water had +changed its colour to a dirty brownish tinge. The temperature of +the water was 36 1/2 deg., being 3 deg. colder than on the preceding +night; a decrease that was probably occasioned by our approach to +the ice. We ran through a narrow part of the stream, and found the +ice beyond it to be "packed" and heavy. The birds were more numerous +than usual; and, besides the fulmar peterels, boatswains, and +kittiwakes, we saw, for the first time, some rotges, dovekies, or +black guillemots, and terns, the latter known best to seamen by +the name of the Greenland swallow. + +On the clearing up of a fog on the morning of the 24th, we saw a +long chain of icebergs, extending several miles, in a N.b.W. and +S.b.E. direction; and, as we approached them, we found a quantity +of "floe-ice" intermixed with them, beyond which, to the westward, +nothing but ice could be seen. At noon we had soundings, with one +hundred and twenty fathoms of line, on a bottom of fine sand, +which makes it probable that most of the icebergs were aground in +this place. In the afternoon we sailed within the edge of the ice, +as much as a light westerly wind would admit, in order to approach +the western land. Some curious effects of atmospheric refraction +were observed this evening, the low ice being at times considerably +raised in the horizon, and constantly altering its appearance. + +The weather being nearly calm on the morning of the 25th, all the +boats were kept ahead, to tow the ships through the ice to the +westward. It remained tolerably open till four P.M., when a +breeze, freshening up from the eastward, caused the ice, through +which we had lately been towing, to close together so rapidly, +that we had scarcely time to hoist up the boats before the ships +were immovably "beset." The clear sea which we had left was about +four miles to the eastward of us, while to the westward nothing +but one extensive field of ice could be seen. It is impossible to +conceive a more helpless situation than that of a ship thus beset, +when all the power that can be applied will not alter the +direction of her head a single degree of the compass. + +A large black whale, being the first, was seen near the ships. It +is usual for these animals to descend head foremost, displaying +the broad fork of their enormous tail above the surface of the +water; but, on this occasion, the ice was so close as not to admit +of this mode of descent, and the fish went down tail foremost, to +the great amusement of our Greenland sailors. + +While in this state a large white bear came near the Griper, and +was killed by her people, but he sunk between the pieces of ice. +This animal had probably been attracted by the smell of some red +herrings which the men were frying at the time. It is a common +practice with the Greenland sailors to take advantage of the +strong sense of smelling which these creatures possess, by +enticing them near the ships in this manner. + +The swell had somewhat subsided on the 29th, but the ships +remained firmly fixed in the ice as before. In the course of the +day we saw land bearing N. 69 deg. W. about thirteen leagues distant, +appearing from the masthead like a group of islands, and situated +near to the entrance of Cumberland Strait: the soundings were one +hundred and thirty-five fathoms; the temperature of the sea at +that depth 30 deg.; that of the surface being the same, and of the air +34 deg. On the 30th the ice began to slacken a little more about the +ships; and, after two hours' heaving with a hawser on each bow +brought to the capstan and windlass, we succeeded in moving the +Hecla about her own length to the eastward, where alone any clear +sea was visible. The ice continuing to open still more in the +course of the day, we were at length enabled to get both ships +into open water, after eight hours' incessant labour. + +On the 1st and 2d of July, we continued to keep close to the edge +of the ice without perceiving any opening in it. Its outer margin +consisted of heavy detached masses, much washed by the sea, and +formed what is technically called "a pack," this name being given +to ice when so closely connected as not to admit the passage of a +ship between the masses. Within the margin of the pack, it +appeared to consist of heavy and extensive floes, having a bright +ice-blink over them; but no clear water could be discovered to the +westward. The birds, which had hitherto been seen since our first +approach to the ice, were fulmar peterels, little auks, looms, and +a few gulls. + +On the morning of the 3d the wind blew strong from the eastward, +with a short, breaking sea, and thick, rainy weather, which made +our situation for some hours rather an unpleasant one, the ice +being close under our lee. Fortunately, however, we weathered it +by stretching back a few miles to the southward. In the afternoon +the wind moderated, and we tacked again to the northward, crossing +the Arctic circle at four P.M., in the longitude of 57 deg. 27' W. We +passed at least fifty icebergs in the course of the day, many of +them of large dimensions. Towards midnight, the wind having +shifted to the southwest and moderated, another extensive chain of +very large icebergs appeared to the northward: as we approached +them the wind died away, and the ships' heads were kept to the +northward, only by the steerage way given to them by a heavy +southerly swell, which, dashing the loose ice with tremendous +force against the bergs, sometimes raised a white spray over the +latter to the height of more than one hundred feet, and, being +accompanied with a loud noise, exactly resembling the roar of +distant thunder, presented a scene at once sublime and terrific. +We could find no bottom near these icebergs with one hundred and +ten fathoms of line. + +At four A.M. on the 4th we came to a quantity of loose ice, which +lay straggling among the bergs; and as there was a light breeze +from the southward, and I was anxious to avoid, if possible, the +necessity of going to the eastward, I pushed the Hecla into the +ice, in the hope of being able to make our way through it. We had +scarcely done so, however, before it fell calm; when the ship +became perfectly unmanageable, and was for some time at the mercy +of the swell, which drifted us fast towards the bergs. All the +boats were immediately sent ahead to tow; and the Griper's signal +was made not to enter the ice. After two hours' hard pulling, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla back again into clear water, and to +a sufficient distance from the icebergs, which it is very +dangerous to approach when there is a swell. At noon we were in +lat. 69 deg. 50' 47", long. 57 deg. 07' 56", being near the middle of the +narrowest part of Davis's Strait, which is here not more than +fifty leagues across. + +On the 5th it was necessary to pass through some heavy streams of +ice, in order to avoid the loss of time by going round to the +eastward. On this, as on many other occasions, the advantage +possessed by a ship of considerable weight in the water, in +separating the heavy masses of ice, was Very apparent. In some of +the streams through which the Hecla passed, a vessel of a hundred +tons less burden must have been immovably beset. The Griper was on +this and many other occasions only enabled to follow the Hecla by +taking advantage of the openings made by the latter. + +A herd of seahorses being seen lying on a piece of ice, our boat +succeeded in killing one of them. These animals usually lie +huddled together like pigs, one over the other, and are so +stupidly tame as to allow a boat to approach them within a few +yards without moving. When at length they are disturbed, they dash +into the water in great confusion. It may be worth remarking, as a +proof how tenacious the walrus sometimes is of life, that the +animal killed to-day struggled violently for ten minutes after it +was struck, and towed the boat twenty or thirty yards, after which +the iron of the harpoon broke; and yet it was found, on +examination, that the iron barb had penetrated both auricles of +the heart. A quantity of the blubber was put into casks, as a +winter's supply of lamp-oil. + +A large bear being seen on a piece of ice, near which we were +passing on the 10th, a boat was despatched in pursuit, and our +people succeeded in killing and towing it on board. As these +animals sink immediately on being mortally wounded, some dexterity +is requisite to secure them, by first throwing a rope over the +neck, at which many of the Greenland seamen are remarkably expert. +It is customary for the boats of the whalers to have two or three +lines coiled in them, which not only gives them great stability, +but, with good management, makes it difficult for a bear, when +swimming, to put his paw upon the gunwale, which they generally +endeavour to do; whereas, with our boats, which are more light and +crank, and therefore very easily heeled over, I have more than +once seen a bear on the point of taking possession of them. Great +caution should therefore be used under such circumstances in +attacking these ferocious creatures. We have always found a +boarding-pike the most useful weapon for this purpose. The lance +used by the whalers will not easily penetrate the skin, and a +musket-ball, except when very close, is scarcely more efficacious. + +On the 17th, the margin of the ice appearing more open than we had +yet seen it, and there being some appearance of a "water-sky" to +the northwest, I was induced to run the ships into the ice, though +the weather was too thick to allow us to see more than a mile or +two in that direction. We were, at noon, in latitude 72 deg. 00' 21", +longitude 59 deg. 43' 04", the depth of water being one hundred and +ninety fathoms, on a muddy bottom. The wind shortly after died +away, as usual, and, after making a number tacks, in order to gain +all we could to the westward, we found ourselves so closely, +hemmed in by the ice on every side, that there was no longer room +to work the ships, and we therefore made them fast to a floe till +the weather should clear up. The afternoon was employed in taking +on board a supply of water from the floe. It may be proper at once +to remark that, from this time till the end of the voyage, +snow-water was exclusively made use of on board the ships for +every purpose. During the summer months, it is found in abundance +in the pools upon the floes and icebergs; and in the winter, snow +was dissolved in the coppers for our daily consumption. The fog +cleared away in the evening, when we perceived that no farther +progress could be made through the ice, into which we sailed to +the westward about twelve miles. We were therefore once more under +the necessity of returning to the eastward, lest a change of wind +should beset the ships in their present situation. + +A thick fog came on again at night, and prevailed till near noon +on the 18th, when we came to a close but narrow stream of ice, +lying exactly across our course, and at right angles to the main +body of the ice. As this stream extended to the eastward as far as +we could see from the "crow's nest," an endeavour was made to push +the ships with all sail through the narrowest part. The facility +with which this operation, technically called "boring," is +performed, depends chiefly on having a fresh and free wind, with +which we were not favoured on this occasion; so that, when we had +forced the ships about one hundred yards into the ice, their way +was completely stopped. The stream consisted of such small pieces +of ice, that, when an attempt was made to warp the ships ahead by +fastening lines to some of the heaviest masses near them, the ice +itself came home, without the ships being moved forward.--Every +effort to extricate them from this helpless situation proved +fruitless for more than two hours, when the Hecla was at length +backed out, and succeeded in pushing through another part of the +stream in which a small opening appeared just at that moment. All +our boats were immediately despatched to the assistance of the +Griper, which still remained beset, and which no effort could move +in any direction We at length resorted to the expedient of sending +a whale-line to her from the Hecla, and then, making all sail upon +the latter ship, we succeeded in towing her out, head to wind, +till she was enabled to proceed in clear water. The crossing of +this stream of ice, of which, the breadth scarcely exceeded three +hundred yards, occupied us constantly for more than five hours, +and may serve as an example of the detention to which ships are +liable in this kind of navigation. + +Early on the morning of the 21st the fog cleared away, and +discovered to us the land called by Davis, Hope Sanderson and the +Woman's Islands, being the first land we had seen in sailing +northward into Baffin's Bay, from the lat. of 633/4 deg. We found +ourselves in the midst of a great number of very high icebergs, of +which I counted, from the crow's-nest, eighty-eight, besides many +smaller ones. + +Having now reached the latitude of 73 deg. without seeing a single +opening in the ice, and being unwilling to increase our distance +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound by proceeding much farther to the +northward, I determined once more to enter the ice in this place, +and to try the experiment of forcing our way through it, in order +to get into the open sea. Being therefore favoured with clear +weather, and a moderate breeze from the southeastward, we ran into +the ice, which for the first two miles consisted of detached +pieces, but afterward of floes of considerable extent, and six or +seven feet in thickness. The wind died away towards midnight, and +the weather was serene and clear. + +At six A.M. on the 23d, a thick fog came on, which rendered it +impossible to see our way any farther. We therefore warped to an +iceberg, to which the ships were made fast at noon, to wait the +clearing up of the fog, being in lat. 73 deg. 04' 10", long. 60 deg. 11' +30". At eight P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few small pools +of open water were seen here and there, but the ice was generally +as close as before, and the wind being to the westward of north, +it was not deemed advisable to move. + +The weather, being clear in the morning of the 25th, and a few +narrow lanes of water appearing to the westward, the Griper was +made fast astern of the Hecla; and her crew being sent to assist +in manning our capstan, we proceeded to warp the ships through the +ice. This method, which is often adopted by our whalers, has the +obvious advantage of applying the whole united force in separating +the masses of ice which lie in the way of the first ship, allowing +the second, or even third, to follow close astern, with very +little obstruction. In this manner we had advanced about four +miles to the westward by eight P.M., after eleven hours of very +laborious exertion; and having then come to the end of the clear +water, and the weather being again foggy, the ships were secured +in a deep "bight," or bay in a floe, called by the sailors a +"natural dock." + +Early on the morning of the 26th there was clear water as far as +we could see to the westward, which, on account of the fog, did +not exceed the distance of three hundred yards. We made sail, +however, and having groped our way for about half a mile, found +the ice once more close in every direction except that in which we +had been sailing, obliging us to make the ships fast to a floe. At +half past three P.M. the weather cleared up, and a few narrow +lanes of water being seen to the westward, every exertion was +immediately made to get into them. On beginning to heave, however, +we found that the "hole" of water in which the Hecla lay was now +so completely enclosed by ice that no passage out of it could be +found. We tried every corner, but to no purpose; all the power we +could apply being insufficient to move the heavy masses of ice +which had fixed themselves firmly between us and the lanes of +water without. In the mean time, Lieutenant Liddon had succeeded +in advancing about three hundred yards, and had placed the +Griper's bow between two heavy floes, which it was necessary to +separate before any farther progress could be made. Both ships +continued to heave at their hawsers occasionally, as the ice +appeared to slacken a little, by which means they were now and +then drawn ahead a few inches at a time, but did not advance more +than half a dozen yards in the course of the night. By our nearing +several bergs to the northward, the ice appeared to be drifting in +that direction, the wind being moderate from the southward. + +About three A.M., Tuesday, 27th, by a sudden motion of the ice, we +succeeded in getting the Hecla out of her confined situation, and +ran her up astern of the Griper. The clear water had made so much +to the westward, that a narrow neck of ice was all that was now +interposed between the ships and a large open space in that +quarter. Both ships' companies were therefore ordered upon the ice +to saw off the neck, when the floes suddenly opened sufficiently +to allow the Griper to push through under all sail. No time was +lost in the attempt to get the Hecla through after her; but, by +one of those accidents to which this navigation is liable, and +which render it so precarious and uncertain, a piece of loose ice, +which lay between the two ships, was drawn after the Griper by the +eddy produced by her motion, and completely blocked the narrow +passage through which we were about to follow. Before we could +remove this obstruction by hauling it back out of the channel, the +floes were again pressed together, wedging it firmly and immovably +between them: the saws were immediately set to work, and used with +great effect; but it was not till eleven o'clock that we +succeeded, after seven hours' labour, in getting the Hecla into +the lanes of clear water which opened more and more to the +westward. + +On the 29th we had so much clear water, that the ships had a very +perceptible pitching motion, which, from the closeness of the ice, +does not very often occur in the Polar regions, and which is +therefore hailed with pleasure as an indication of an open sea. At +five P.M. the swell increased considerably, and, as the wind +freshened up from the northeast, the ice gradually disappeared; so +that by six o'clock we were sailing in an open sea, perfectly free +from obstruction of any kind. + +We now seemed all at once to have got into the headquarters of the +whales. They were so numerous that I directed the number to be +counted during each watch, and no less than eighty-two are +mentioned in this day's log. Mr. Allison, the Greenland master, +considered them generally as large ones, and remarked that a fleet +of whalers might easily have obtained a cargo here in a few days. +In the afternoon the wind broke us of from the N.N.W., which +obliged us to cast off the Griper, and we carried all sail ahead +to make the land. We saw it at half past five P.M., being the high +land about Possession Bay, and at the same time several streams of +loose but heavy ice came in sight, which a fresh breeze was +drifting fast to the southeastward. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze on the morning of the 31st, +which prevented our making much way to the westward. We stood in +towards Cape Byam Martin, and sounded in eighty fathoms on a rocky +bottom, at the distance of two miles in an east direction from it. +We soon after discovered the flagstaff which had been erected on +Possession Mount on the former expedition; an object which, though +insignificant in itself, called up every person immediately on +deck to look at and to greet it as an old acquaintance. + +The land immediately at the hack of Possession Bay rises in a +gentle slope from the sea, presenting an open and extensive space +of low ground, flanked by hills to the north and south. In this +valley, and even on the hills, to the height of six or seven +hundred feet above the sea, there was scarcely any snow, but the +mountains at the back were completely covered with it. Some pieces +of birch-bark having been picked up in the bed of this stream in +1818, which gave reason to suppose that wood might be found +growing in the interior, I directed Mr. Fisher to walk up it, +accompanied by a small party, and to occupy an hour or two while +the Griper was coming up, and Captain Sabine and myself were +employed upon the beach, in examining the nature and productions +of the country. + +Mr. Fisher reported, on his return, that he had followed the +stream between three and four miles, where it turned to the +southwest, without discovering any indications of a wooded +country; but a sufficient explanation respecting the birch-bark +was perhaps furnished by his finding, at the distance of a quarter +of a mile from the sea, a piece of whalebone two feet ten inches +in length and two inches in breadth, having a number of circular +holes very neatly and regularly perforated along one of its edges, +which had undoubtedly formed part of an Esquimaux sledge. This +circumstance affording a proof of the Esquimaux having visited +this part of the coast at no very distant period, it was concluded +that the piece of bark above alluded to had been brought hither by +these people. From the appearance of the whalebone, it might have +been lying there for four or five years. That none of the +Esquimaux tribe had visited this part of the coast since we landed +there in 1818, was evident from the flagstaff then erected still +remaining untouched. Mr. Fisher found every part of the valley +quite free from snow as high as he ascended it: and the following +fact seems to render it probable that no great quantity either of +snow or sleet had fallen here since our last visit. Mr. Fisher had +not proceeded far, till, to his great surprise, he encountered the +tracks of human feet upon the banks of the stream, which appeared +so fresh that he at first imagined them to have been recently made +by some natives, but which, on examination, were distinctly +ascertained to be the marks of our own shoes, made eleven months +before. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of +Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and +Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward +stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, +and enter the Polar Sea. + + +We were now about to enter and to explore that great sound or +inlet which has obtained a degree of celebrity beyond what it +might otherwise have been considered to possess, from the very +opposite opinions which have been held with regard to it. To us it +was peculiarly interesting, as being the point to which our +instructions more particularly directed our attention; and I may +add, what I believe we all felt, it was that point of the voyage +which was to determine the success or failure of the expedition, +according as one or other of the opposite opinions alluded to +should be corroborated. It will readily be conceived, then, how +great our anxiety was for a change of the westerly wind and swell, +which, on the 1st of August, set down Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +and prevented our making much progress. Several whales were seen +in the course of the day, and Mr. Allison remarked that this was +the only part of Baffin's Bay in which he had ever seen young +whales; for it is a matter of surprise to the whalers in general, +that they seldom or never meet with young ones on this fishery, as +they are accustomed to do in the seas of Spitzbergen. + +The Griper continued to detain us so much, that I determined on +making the best of our way to the westward, and ordered the Hecla +to be hove to in the evening, and sent Lieutenant Liddon an +instruction, with some signals, which might facilitate our meeting +in case of fog; and I appointed as a place of rendezvous the +meridian of 85 deg. west, and as near the middle of the sound as +circumstances would permit. As soon, therefore, as the boat +returned from the Griper, we carried a press of sail, and in the +course of the evening saw the northern shore of the sound looming +through the clouds which hung over it. + +The weather being clear in the evening of the 2d, we had the first +distinct view of both sides of the sound; and the difference in +the character of the two shores was very apparent; that on the +south consisting of high and peaked mountains, completely +snow-clad, except on the lower parts, while the northern coast has +generally a smoother outline, and had, comparatively with the +other, little snow upon it; the difference in this last respect +appearing to depend principally on the difference in their +absolute height. The sea was open before us, free from ice or +land; and the Hecla pitched so much from the westerly swell in the +course of the day, as to throw the water once or twice into the +stern windows; a circumstance which, together with other +appearances, we were willing to attribute to an open sea in the +desired direction. More than forty black whales were seen during +the day. + +We made little way on the 3d, but being favoured at length by the +easterly breeze which was bringing up the Griper, and for which we +had long been looking with much impatience, a crowd of sail was +set to carry us with all rapidity to the westward. It is more easy +to imagine than to describe the almost breathless anxiety which +was now visible in every countenance, while, as the breeze +continued to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The +mastheads were crowded by the officers and men during the whole +afternoon; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been +unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the +eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's-nest were +received; all, however, hitherto favourable to our most sanguine +hopes. + +Our course was nearly due west, and the wind still continuing to +freshen, took us in a few hours nearly out of sight of the Griper. +The only ice which we met with consisted of a few large bergs very +much washed by the sea; and the weather being remarkably clear, so +as to enable us to run with perfect safety, we were by midnight, +in a great measure, relieved from our anxiety respecting the +supposed continuity of land at the bottom of this magnificent +inlet, having reached the longitude of 83 deg. 12', where the two +shores are still above thirteen leagues apart, without the +slightest appearance of any land to the westward of us for four or +five points of the compass. + +Having made the ship snug, so as to be in readiness to round to +should the land be seen ahead, and the Griper having come up +within a few miles of us, we again bore up at one A.M., the 4th. +At half past three, Lieutenant Beechey, who had relieved me on +deck, discovered from the crow's-nest a reef of rocks, in-shore of +us to the northward, on which the sea was breaking. The cliffs on +this part of the coast present a singular appearance, being +stratified horizontally, and having a number of regular projecting +masses of rock, broad at the bottom, and coming to a point at the +top, resembling so many buttresses, raised by art at equal +intervals. + +After lying-to for an hour, we again bore up to the westward, and +soon after discovered a cape, afterward named by Captain Sabine, +CAPE FELLFOOT, which appeared to form the termination of this +coast; and as the haze, which still prevailed to the south, +prevented our seeing any land in that quarter, and the sea was +literally as free from ice as any part of the Atlantic, we began +to flatter ourselves that we had fairly entered the Polar Sea, and +some of the most sanguine among us had even calculated the bearing +and distance of Icy Cape, as a matter of no very difficult or +improbable accomplishment. This pleasing prospect was rendered the +more flattering by the sea having, as we thought, regained the +usual oceanic colour, and by a long swell which was rolling in +from the southward and eastward. At six P.M., however, land was +reported to be seen ahead. The vexation and anxiety produced on +every countenance by such a report were but too visible, until, on +a nearer approach, it was found to be only an island, of no very +large extent, and that, on each side of it, the horizon still +appeared clear for several points of the compass. At eight P.M. we +came to some ice of no great breadth or thickness, extending +several miles in a direction nearly parallel to our course; and as +we could see clear water over it to the southward, I was for some +time in the hope that it would prove a detached stream, from which +no obstruction to our progress westerly was to be apprehended. At +twenty minutes past ten, however, the weather having become hazy +and the wind light, we perceived that the ice, along which we had +been sailing for the last two hours, was joined, at the distance +of half a mile to the westward of us, to a compact and impenetrable +body of floes, which lay across the whole breadth of the strait, +formed by the island and the western point of Maxwell Bay. We +hauled our wind to the northward, just in time to avoid being +embayed in the ice, on the outer edge of which a considerable surf, +the effect of the late gale, was then rolling. + +While the calm and thick weather lasted, a number of the officers +and men amused themselves in the boats, in endeavouring to kill +some of the white whales which were swimming about the ships in +great numbers; but the animals were so wary, that they would +scarcely suffer the boats to approach them within thirty or forty +yards without diving. Mr. Fisher described them to be generally +from eighteen to twenty feet in length; and he stated that he had +several times heard them emit a shrill, ringing sound, not unlike +that of musical glasses when badly played; This sound, he farther +observed, was most distinctly heard when they happened to swim +directly beneath the boat, even when they were several feet under +water, and ceased altogether on their coming to the surface. We +saw also, for the first time, one or two shoals of narwhals, +called by the sailors sea-unicorns. + +A steady breeze springing up from the W.N.W. in the afternoon, the +ships stood to the northward till we had distinctly made out that +no passage to the westward could at present be found between the +ice and the land. The weather having become clear about this time, +we perceived that there was a large open space to the southward, +where no land was visible; and for this opening, over which there +was a dark water-sky, our course was now directed. + +Since the time when we first entered Sir James Lancaster's Sound, +the sluggishness of the compasses, as well as the amount of their +irregularity produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, had +been found very rapidly, though uniformly, to increase as we +proceeded to the westward; so much, indeed, that, for the last two +days, we had been under the necessity of giving up altogether the +usual observations for determining the variation of the needle on +board the ships. This irregularity became more and more obvious as +we now advanced to the southward, which rendered it not improbable +that we were making a very near approach to the magnetic pole. For +the purposes of navigation, therefore, the compasses were from +this time no longer consulted; and in a few days afterward, the +binnacles were removed as useless lumber from the deck to the +carpenter's storeroom, where they remained during the rest of the +season. + +A dark sky to the southwest had given us hopes of finding a +westerly passage to the south of the ice along which we were now +sailing; more especially as the inlet began to widen considerably +as we advanced in that direction: but at three A.M. on the morning +of the 8th, we perceived that the ice ran close in with a point of +land bearing S.b.E. from us, which appeared to form the southern +extremity of the eastern shore. + +With the increasing width of the inlet we had flattered ourselves +with increasing hopes; but we soon experienced the mortification +of disappointment. The prospect from the crow's-nest began to +assume a very unpromising appearance, the whole of the western +horizon, from north round to S.b.E., being completely covered with +ice, consisting of heavy and extensive floes, beyond which no +indication of water was visible; instead of which there was a +bright and dazzling iceblink extending from shore to shore. The +western coast of the inlet, however, trended much more to the +westward than before, and no land was visible to the southwest, +though the horizon was so clear in that quarter, that, if any had +existed of moderate height, it might have been easily seen at this +time at the distance of ten or twelve leagues. From these +circumstances, the impression received at the time was, that the +land, both on the eastern and western side of this inlet, would be +one day found to consist of islands. + +A breeze sprung up from the northward on the morning of the 12th, +but the weather was so foggy for some hours that we did not know +in what direction it was blowing. As soon as the fog cleared away, +so as to enable us to see a mile or two around us, we found that +the floe to which we had anchored was drifting fast down upon +another body of ice to leeward, threatening to enclose the ships +between them. We therefore cast off and made sail, in order to +beat to the northward, which we found great difficulty in doing, +owing to the quantity of loose ice with which this part of the +inlet was now covered. A remarkably thick fog obscured the eastern +land from our view this evening at the distance of five or six +miles, while the western coast was distinctly visible at four +times that distance. + +The weather was beautifully calm and clear on the 13th, when, +being near an opening in the eastern shore, I took the opportunity +of examining it in a boat. It proved to be a bay, a mile wide at +its entrance, and three miles deep in an E.b.S. direction, having +a small but snug cove on the north side, formed by an island, +between which and the main land is a bar of rocks, which +completely shelters the cove from sea or drift ice. We found the +water so deep, that in rowing close along the shore we could +seldom get bottom with seven fathoms of line. The cliffs on the +south side of this bay, to which I gave the name of PORT BOWEN, +resemble, in many places, ruined towers and battlements; and +fragments of the rocks were constantly falling from above. At the +head of the bay is an extensive piece of low flat ground, +intersected by numerous rivulets, which, uniting at a short +distance from the beach, formed a deep and rapid stream, near the +mouth of which we landed. This spot was, I think, the most barren +I ever saw, the ground being almost entirely covered with small +pieces of slaty limestone, among which no vegetation appeared for +more than a mile, to which distance Mr. Ross and myself walked +inland, following the banks of the stream. Among the fragments we +picked up one piece of limestone, on which was the impression of a +fossil-shell. We saw here a great number of young black +guillemots, and a flock of ducks, which we supposed to be of the +eider species. + +The narwhals were here very numerous; these animals appear fond of +remaining with their backs exposed above the surface of the water, +in the same manner as the whale, but for a much longer time, and +we frequently also observed their horns erect, and quite +stationary for several minutes together. + +The whole of the 14th was occupied in an unsuccessful attempt to +find an opening in the ice to the westward, which remained +perfectly close and compact, with a bright iceblink over it. + +The ice continued in the same unfavourable state on the 15th; and +being desirous of turning to some account this vexatious but +unavoidable detention, I left the ship, accompanied by Captain +Sabine and Mr. Hooper, in order to make some observations on +shore, and directed Lieutenant Liddon to send a boat from the +Griper for the same purpose. We landed in one of the numerous +valleys or ravines which occur on this part of the coast, and at a +few miles' distance very much resemble bays, being bounded by high +hills that have the appearance of bluff headlands. We ascended +with some difficulty the hill on the south side of the ravine, +which is very steep, and covered with innumerable detached blocks +of limestone, some of which are constantly rolling down from +above, and afford a very insecure footing. From the top of this +hill, which is about six or seven feet above the level of the sea, +and commands an extensive view to the westward, the prospect was +by no means favourable to the immediate accomplishment of our +object. No water could be seen over the ice to the northwest, and +a bright and dazzling blink covered the whole space comprised +between the islands and the north shore. It was a satisfaction, +however, to find that no _land_ appeared which was likely to +impede our progress; and we had been too much accustomed to the +obstruction occasioned by ice, and too well aware of the +suddenness with which that obstruction is often removed, to be at +all discouraged by present appearances. + +On the top of this hill we deposited a bottle containing a short +notice of our visit, and raised over it a small mound of stones; +of these we found no want, for the surface was covered with small +pieces of schistose limestone, and nothing like soil or vegetation +could be seen. + +On the 17th we had a fresh breeze from the S.S.W., with so thick a +fog that, in spite of the most unremitting attention to the sails +and the steerage, the ships were constantly receiving heavy shocks +from the loose masses of ice with which the sea was covered, and +which, in the present state of the weather, could not be +distinguished at a sufficient distance to avoid them. On the +weather clearing up in the afternoon, we saw for the first time a +remarkable bluff headland, which forms the northeastern point of +the entrance into Prince Regent's Inlet, and to which I gave the +name of CAPE YORK. A little to the eastward of Cape Fellfoot, we +observed six stripes of snow near the top of the cliff, being very +conspicuous at a great distance, when viewed from the southward. +These stripes, which are formed by the drift of snow between the +buttress-like projections before described, and which remained +equally conspicuous on our return the following year, have +probably at all times much the same appearance, at least about +this season of the year, and may, on this account, perhaps, be +deemed worthy of notice as a landmark. + +There being still no prospect of getting a single mile to the +westward, in the neighbourhood of Prince Leopold's Islands, and a +breeze having freshened up from the eastward in the afternoon, I +determined to stand over once more towards the northern shore, in +order to try what could there be done towards effecting our +passage; and at nine P.M., after beating for several hours among +floes and streams of ice, we got into clear water near that coast, +where we found some swell from the eastward. There was just light +enough at midnight to enable us to read and write in the cabin. + +The wind and sea increased on the 19th, with a heavy fall of snow, +which, together with the uselessness of the compasses, and the +narrow space in which we were working between the ice and the +land, combined to make our situation for several hours a very +unpleasant one. + +On the 21st we had nothing to impede our progress but the want of +wind, the great opening through, which we had hitherto proceeded +from Baffin's Bay being now so perfectly clear of ice, that it was +impossible to believe it to be the same part of the sea, which, +but a day or two before, had been completely covered with floes to +the utmost extent of our view. In the forenoon we picked up a +small piece of wood, which appeared to have been the end of a +boat's yard, and which caused sundry amusing speculations among +our gentlemen; some of whom had just come to the very natural +conclusion that a ship had been here before us, and that, +therefore, we were not entitled to the honour of the first +discovery of that part of the sea on which we were now sailing; +when a stop was suddenly put to this and other ingenious +inductions by the information of one of the seamen, that he had +dropped it out of his boat a fortnight before. I could not get him +to recollect exactly the day on which it had been dropped, but +what he stated was sufficient to convince me that we were not at +that time more than ten or twelve leagues from our present +situation; perhaps not half so much; and that, therefore, here was +no current setting constantly in any one direction. + +We perceived, as we proceeded, that the land along which we were +sailing, and which, with the exception of some small inlets, had +appeared to be hitherto continuous from Baffin's Bay, began now to +trend much to the northward, beyond Beechey Island, leaving a +large open space between that coast and the distant land to the +westward, which now appeared like an island, of which the extremes +to the north and south were distinctly visible. The latter was a +remarkable headland, having at its extremity two small table-hills, +somewhat resembling boats turned bottom upward, and was named +CAPE HOTHAM. At sunset we had a clear and extensive view to the +northward, between Cape Hotham and the eastern land. On the +latter, several headlands were discovered and named; between the +northernmost of these, called CAPE BOWDEN, and the island to the +westward, there was a channel of more than eight leagues in width, +in which neither land nor ice could be seen from the masthead. To +this noble channel I gave the name of WELLINGTON. The arrival off +this grand opening was an event for which we had long been looking +with much anxiety and impatience; for the continuity of land to +the northward had always been a source of uneasiness to us, +principally from the possibility that it might take a turn to the +southward and unite with the coast of America. The appearance of +this broad opening, free from ice, and of the land on each side of +it, more especially that on the west, leaving scarcely a doubt on +our minds of the latter being an island, relieved us from all +anxiety on that score; and every one felt that we were now finally +disentangled from the land which forms the western side of +Baffin's Bay; and that, in fact, we had actually entered the Polar +Sea. + +Though two thirds of the month of August had now elapsed, I had +every reason to be satisfied with the progress which we had +hitherto made. I calculated upon the sea being navigable for six +weeks to come, and probably more, if the state of the ice would +permit us to edge away to the southward in our progress westerly: +our prospects, indeed, were truly exhilarating; the ships had +suffered no injury; we had plenty of provisions; crews in high +health and spirits; a sea, if not open, at least navigable; and a +zealous and unanimous determination, in both officers and men, to +accomplish, by all possible means, the grand object on which we +had the happiness to be employed. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the +Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet +with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with +Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam +Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty +of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville +Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110 deg. +W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act +of Parliament. + + +A calm which prevailed during the night kept us quite stationary +till three A.M. on the 23d, when a fresh breeze sprung up from the +northward, and all sail was made for Cape Hotham, to the southward +of which it was now my intention to seek a direct passage towards +Behring's Strait. Wellington Channel, to the northward of us, was +as open and navigable to the utmost extent of our view as any part +of the Atlantic; but as it lay at right angles to our coarse, and +there was still an opening at least ten leagues wide to the +southward of Cornwallis Island, I could have no hesitation in +deciding which of the two it was our business to pursue. It is +impossible to conceive anything more animating than the quick and +unobstructed run with which we were favoured, from Beechey Island +across to Cape Hotham. Most men have, probably, at one time or +another, experienced that elevation of spirits which is usually +produced by rapid motion of any kind; and it will readily be +conceived how much this feeling was heightened in us, in the few +instances in which it occurred, by the slow and tedious manner in +which the greater part of our navigation had been performed in +these seas. + +At noon we had reached the longitude of 94 deg. 43' 15", the latitude +by observation being 74 deg. 20' 52", when we found that the land +which then formed the western extreme on this side was a second +island, which I called GRIFFITH ISLAND. The ice in this +neighbourhood was covered with innumerable "hummocks," and the +floes were from seven to ten feet in thickness. + +After various unsuccessful attempts to get through the ice which +now lay in our way, we were at length so fortunate as to +accomplish this object by "boring" through a number of heavy +"streams," which occasioned the ships to receive many severe +shocks; and, at half an hour before midnight, we were able to, +pursue our course, through "sailing ice," to the westward. + +The weather was at this time remarkably serene and clear; and +although we saw a line of ice to the southward of us, lying in a +direction nearly east and west, or parallel to the course on which +we were steering, and some more land appeared to the westward, yet +the space of open water was still so broad, and the prospect from +the masthead, upon the whole, so flattering, that I thought the +chances of our separation had now become greater than before; and +I therefore considered it right to furnish Lieutenant Liddon with +fresh instructions, and to appoint some new place of rendezvous in +case of unavoidable separation from the Hecla. At ten o'clock, +after having had a clear view of the ice and of the land about +sunset, and finding that there was at present no passage to the +westward, we hauled off to the southeast, in the hope of finding +some opening in the ice to the southward, by which we might get +round in the desired direction. We were encouraged in this hope by +a dark "water-sky" to the southward; but, after running along the +ice till half past eleven without perceiving any opening, we again +bore up. There was in this neighbourhood a great deal of that +particular kind of ice called by the sailors "dirty ice," on the +surface of which were strewed sand, stones, and, in some +instances, moss: ice of this kind must, of course, at one time or +other, have been in close contact with the land. + +At ten A.M. I despatched Captain Sabine and Mr. Ross to the +eastern point of the island, which we were about to round in the +ships, in order to make the necessary observations, and to examine +the natural productions of the shore. Our latitude at noon was 75 deg. +03' 12", long. 103 deg. 44' 37", and the depth of water forty fathoms. +The gentlemen reported, on their return, that they had landed on a +sandy beach, near the east point of the island, which they found +to be more productive, and altogether more interesting, than any +other part of the shores of the Polar regions which we had yet +visited. The remains of Esquimaux habitations were found in four +different places. Six of these, which Captain Sabine had an +opportunity of examining, and which are situated on a level sandy +bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea, are described by +him as consisting of stones rudely placed in a circular, or, +rather, an elliptical form. They were from seven to ten feet in +diameter; the broad, flat sides of the stones standing vertically, +and the whole structure, if such it may be called, being exactly +similar to that of the summer huts of the Esquimaux which we had +seen at Hare Island the preceding year. Attached to each of them +was a smaller circle, generally four or five feet in diameter, +which had probably been the fireplace. The small circles were +placed indifferently as to their direction from the huts to which +they belonged; and from the moss and sand which covered some of +the lower stones, particularly those which composed the flooring +of the huts, the whole encampment appeared to have been deserted +for several years. Very recent traces of the reindeer and musk-ox +were seen in many places; and a head of the latter, with several +reindeers' horns, was brought on board. A few patches of snow +remained in sheltered situations; the ravines, however, which were +numerous, bore the signs of recent and considerable floods, and +their bottoms were swampy, and covered with very luxuriant moss +and other vegetation, the character of which differed very little +from that of the land at the bottom of Possession Bay. + +The dip of the magnetic needle was 88 deg. 25' 58", and the variation +was now found to have changed from 128 deg. 58' west, in the longitude +of 91 deg. 48', where our last observations on shore had been made, to +165 deg. 50' 09" east, at our present station; so that we had, in +sailing over the space included between those two meridians, +crossed immediately to the northward of the magnetic pole and had +undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon the globe where +the needle would have been found to vary 180 deg., or, in other words, +where its north pole would have pointed due south. + +The wind became very light from the eastward, and the weather +continued so foggy that nothing could be done during the night but +to stand off-and-on, by the soundings, between the ice and the +land. On the 29th, after a few hours of clear weather, the fog +came on again as thick as before; fortunately, however, we had +previously been enabled to take notice of several pieces of ice, +by steering for each of which in succession we came to the edge of +a floe, along which our course was to be pursued to the westward. +As long as we had this guidance, we advanced with great +confidence; but as soon as we came to the end of the floe, which +then turned off to the southward, the circumstances under which we +were sailing were perhaps such as have never occurred since the +early days of navigation. To the northward was the land; the ice, +as we supposed, to the southward; the compasses useless; and the +sun completely obscured by a fog so thick, that the Griper could +only now and then be seen at a cable's length astern. We had +literally, therefore, no mode, of regulating our course but by +once more trusting to the steadiness of the wind; and it was not a +little amusing, as well as novel, to see the quartermaster conning +the ship by looking at the dogvane. + +The weather cleared a little at intervals, but not enough to +enable us to proceed till nine A.M. on the 31st, when we cast off +from the ice, with a very light air from the northward. We +occasionally caught a glimpse of land through the heavy fog-banks +with which the horizon was covered, which was sufficient to give +us an idea of the true direction in which we ought to steer. Soon +after noon we were once more enveloped in a fog, which, however, +was not so thick as to prevent our having recourse to a new +expedient for steering the ships, which circumstances at the time +naturally suggested to our minds. Before the fog recommenced, and +while we were sailing on the course which, by the bearings of the +land, we knew to be the right one, the Griper was exactly astern +of the Hecla, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile. The +weather being fortunately not so thick as to prevent our still +seeing her at that distance, the quartermaster was directed to +stand aft, near the taffrail, and to keep her constantly astern of +us, by which means we contrived to steer a tolerably straight +course to the westward. The Griper, on the other hand, naturally +kept the Hecla right ahead; and thus, however ridiculous it may +appear, it is nevertheless true, that we steered one ship entirely +by the other for a distance of ten miles out of sixteen and a +half, which we sailed between one and eleven P.M. + +The wind died away on the morning of the 1st of September, and the +fog was succeeded by snow and sleet, which still rendered the +atmosphere extremely thick. At a quarter before four A.M., I was +informed by the officer of the watch that a breeze had sprung up, +and that there was very little ice near the ships. Anxious to take +advantage of these favourable circumstances, I directed all sail +to be made to the westward: there was no difficulty in complying +with the first part of this order; but to ascertain which way the +wind was blowing, and to which quarter of the horizon the ship's +head was to be directed, was a matter of no such easy accomplishment; +nor could we devise any means of determining this question till five +o'clock, when we obtained a sight of the sun through the fog, and +were thus enabled to shape our course, the wind being moderate from +the northward. + +At one A.M. on the 2d, a star was seen, being the first that had +been visible to us for more than two months. + +As we were making no way to the westward, I left the ship, +accompanied by a large party of officers and men, and was soon +after joined by the Griper's boats. The basis of this land is +sandstone; but we met with limestone also, occurring in loose +pieces on the surface, and several lumps of coal were brought in +by the parties who had traversed the island in different +directions. Our sportsmen were by no means successful, having seen +only two deer, which were too wild to allow them to get near them. +The dung of these animals, however, as well as that of the +musk-ox, was very abundant, especially in those places where the +moss was most luxuriant; every here and there we came to a spot of +this kind, consisting of one or two acres of ground, covered with +a rich vegetation, which was evidently the feeding-place of those +animals, there being quantities of their hair and wool lying +scattered about. Several heads of the musk-ox were picked up, and +one of the Hecla's seamen brought to the boat a narwhal's horn, +which he found on a hill more than a mile from the sea, and which +must have been carried thither by Esquimaux or by bears: three or +four brace of ptarmigan were killed, and these were the only +supply of this kind which we obtained. We found no indication of +this part of the island having been inhabited, unless the +narwhal's horn be considered as such. + +The wind continued light and variable till half past eight A.M. on +the 3d, when a breeze from the northward once more enabled us to +make some progress. I was the more anxious to do so from having +perceived that the main ice had, for the last twenty-four hours, +been gradually, though slowly, closing on the shore, thereby +contracting the scarcely navigable channel in which we were +sailing. The land which formed our western extreme was a low +point, five miles to the westward of our place of observation the +preceding day, which I named Point Ross, and the ice had already +approached this point so much that there was considerable doubt +whether any passage could be found between them. We had scarcely +cleared the point when the wind failed us, and the boats were +immediately sent ahead to tow, but a breeze springing up shortly +after from the westward, obliged us to have recourse to another +method of gaining ground, which we had not hitherto practised: +this was by using small anchors and whale-lines as warps, by which +means we made great progress, till, at forty minutes after noon, +we were favoured by a fresh breeze, which soon took us into an +open space of clear water to the northward and westward. A little +to the westward of Point Ross there was a barrier of ice, composed +of heavy masses firmly fixed to the ground at nearly regular +intervals for about a mile, in a direction parallel to the beach. +At right angles to this a second tier projected, of the same kind +of ice, extending to the shore, so that the two together formed a +most complete harbour, within which, I believe, a ship might have +been placed in case of necessity, without much danger from the +pressure of the external floes of ice. It was natural for us to +keep in view the possibility of our being obliged to pass the +ensuing winter in such a harbour; and it must be confessed, that +the apparent practicability of finding such tolerable security for +the ships as this artificial harbour afforded, should we fail in +discovering a more safe and regular anchorage, added not a little +to the confidence with which our operations were carried on during +the remainder of the season. + +At a quarter past nine P.M. we had the satisfaction of crossing +the meridian of 110 deg. west from Greenwich, in the latitude of 74 deg. +44' 20"; by which his majesty's ships under my orders became +entitled to the sum of five thousand pounds, being the reward +offered to such of his majesty's subjects as might succeed in +penetrating thus far to the westward within the Arctic Circle. In +order to commemorate the success which had hitherto attended our +exertions, the bluff headland which we had just passed was +subsequently called by the men BOUNTY CAPE; by which name I have +therefore distinguished it on the chart. + +The wind increasing to a fresh gale from the northward in the +afternoon, and the ice still continuing to oppose an impenetrable +barrier to our farther progress, I determined to beat up to the +northern shore of the bay, and, if a tolerable roadstead could be +found, to drop our anchors till some change should take place. +This was accordingly done at three P.M., in seven fathoms' water. +This roadstead, which I called the BAY OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER, +affords very secure shelter with the wind from E.N.E. round by +north to S.W., and we found it more free from ice than any other +part of the southern coast of the island. + +The Bay of the Hecla and Griper was the first spot where we had +dropped anchor since leaving the coast of Norfolk; a circumstance +which was rendered the more striking to us at the moment, as it +appeared to mark, in a very decided manner, the completion of one +stage of our voyage. The ensigns and pendants were hoisted as soon +as we had anchored, and it created in us no ordinary feelings of +pleasure to see the British flag waving for the first time in +these regions, which had hitherto been considered beyond the +limits of the habitable part of the world. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our +Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent +on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after +losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the +Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the +Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, +and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations +for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters. + + +As the wind still continued to blow strong from the northward on +the morning of the 6th, without any appearance of opening a +passage for us past Cape Hearne, I took the opportunity of sending +all our boats from both ships at eight A.M., to bring on board a +quantity of moss-peat which our gentlemen reported having found +near a small lake at no great distance from the sea, and which I +directed to be substituted for part of our usual allowance of +coals. Captain Sabine also went on shore to make the requisite +observations; and several of the officers of both ships to sport, +and to collect specimens of natural history. + +The wind beginning to moderate soon after noon, and there being at +length some appearance of motion in the ice near Cape Hearne, the +boats were immediately recalled from the shore, and returned at +two P.M., bringing some peat, which was found to burn tolerably, +but a smaller quantity than I had hoped to procure. We then made +sail for Cape Hearne, which we rounded at six o'clock, having no +soundings with from seventeen to twenty fathoms of line, at the +distance of a mile and a quarter from the point. + +I was beginning once more to indulge in those flattering hopes, of +which often-repeated disappointments cannot altogether deprive us, +when I perceived from the crow's-nest a compact body of ice, +extending completely in to the shore near the point which formed +the western extreme. We ran sufficiently close to be assured that +no passage to the westward could at present be effected, the floes +being literally upon the beach, and not a drop of clear water +being visible beyond them. I then ordered the ships to be made +fast to a floe, being in eighty fathoms' water, at the distance of +four or five miles from the beach. The season had now so far +advanced as to make it absolutely necessary to secure the ships +every night from ten till two o'clock, the weather being too dark +during that interval to allow of our keeping under way in such a +navigation as this, deprived as we were of the use of compasses. + +On the morning of the 8th, there being no prospect of any +immediate alteration in the ice, I directed the boats to be sent +on shore from both ships, to endeavour to procure some game, as +well as to examine the productions of this part of the island. On +going to the masthead, shortly after the boats had been +despatched, I found that the bight of ice in which the ships were +lying was not one floe, but formed by the close junction of two, +so that our situation was by no means so secure as I had supposed +for this bight was so far from being a protection to us, in case +of ice driving on shore, that it would probably be the means of +"nipping" us between the floes which formed it. I therefore +determined on immediately removing the ships in-shore, and went in +a boat to look out for a place for that purpose, there being no +alternative between this and our returning some distance to the +eastward, into the larger space of clear water which we had there +left behind us. I found that a heavy piece of ice aground in +twelve fathoms, at the distance of three hundred yards from the +beach, would suit our purpose for the Hecla, and another, in ten +fathoms, still nearer in-shore, was selected for the Griper. These +masses were from twenty to thirty feet above the sea, and each +about the length of the respective ships. + +At four P.M., the weather being quite calm, the ships were towed +in-shore by the boats, and made fast in the places selected for +them. + +Impatient and anxious as we were to make the most of the short +remainder of the present season, our mortification will easily be +imagined at perceiving, on the morning of the 9th, not only that +the ice was as close as ever to the westward, but that the floes +in our immediate neighbourhood were sensibly approaching the +shore. As there was no chance, therefore, of our being enabled to +move, I sent a party on shore at daylight to collect what coal +they could find, and in the course of the day, nearly two thirds +of a bushel, being about equal to the Hecla's daily expenditure, +was brought on board. Our sportsmen, who were out for several +hours, could only procure us a hare and a few ducks. + +On the 11th there was no alteration in the ice near the ships and +Mr. Bushnan, whom I despatched at daylight to the western cape, +reported on his return, that appearances were equally unpromising +in that quarter. Mr. Dealy was fortunate enough to kill the first +musk-ox that our sportsmen had yet been able to get near; but, as +it was at the distance of eight or ten miles from the ships, our +present situation with regard to the ice would not allow of my +sending a party of men to bring it on board. A piece of the meat +which Mr. Dealy brought with him was considered to taste tolerably +well, but its smell was by no means tempting. + +I must now mention an occurrence which had caused considerable +apprehension in our minds for the last two days, and the result of +which had very nearly proved of very serious importance to the +future welfare of the expedition. Early on the morning of the 11th +I received a note from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at +daylight on the preceding day, Mr. Fife, with a party of six men, +had been despatched from the Griper, with the hope of surprising +some reindeer and musk-oxen, whose tracks had been seen in a +ravine to the westward of the ships. As they had not yet returned, +in compliance with the instructions given to Mr. Fife, and had +only been supplied with a small quantity of provisions, it was +natural to apprehend that they had lost their way in pursuit of +game. I therefore recommended to Lieutenant Liddon to send a party +in search of his people, and Messrs. Reid, Beverly, and Wakeham, +who immediately volunteered their services on the occasion, were +accordingly despatched for this purpose. Soon after their +departure, however, it began to snow, which rendered the +atmosphere so extremely thick, especially on the hills along which +they had to travel, that this party also lost their way, in spite +of every precaution, but fortunately got sight of our rockets +after dark, by which they were directed to the ships, and returned +at ten o'clock, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, without +any intelligence of the absentees. + +At daylight on the following morning, I sent Lieutenant Hoppner, +with the Heck's fore-royal-mast rigged as a flagstaff, which he +erected on a conspicuous hill four or five miles inland, hoisting +upon it a large ensign, which might be seen at a considerable +distance in every direction. This expedient occurred to us as a +more certain mode of directing our absentees towards the ships +than that of sending out a number of parties, which I could not, +in common prudence as well as humanity, permit to go to any great +distance from the ships; but the snow fell so thick, and the drift +was so great during the whole of the 12th, that no advantage could +at that time be expected from it, and another night came without +the absent party appearing. + +Our apprehensions on their account was by this time increased to a +most painful degree, and I therefore ordered four parties, under +the command of careful officers, to be prepared to set out in +search of them the following morning. These parties carried with +them a number of pikes, having small flags attached to them, which +they were directed to plant at regular intervals, and which were +intended to answer the double purpose of guiding themselves on +their return and of directing the absent party, should they meet +with them, to the ships. For the latter purpose a bottle was fixed +to each pike, containing the necessary directions for their +guidance, and acquainting them that provisions would be found at +the large flagstaff on the hill. Our searching parties left the +ships soon after daylight, the wind still blowing hard from the +westward, with incessant snow, and the thermometer at 28 deg. This +weather continued without intermission during the day, and our +apprehensions for the safety of our people were excited to a most +alarming degree, when the sun began to descend behind the western +hills for the third time since they had left the ship; I will not, +therefore, attempt to describe the joyful feelings we suddenly +experienced, on the Griper's hoisting the signal appointed, to +inform us that her men, or a part of them, were seen on their +return. Soon, after we observed seven persons coming along the +beach to the eastward, who proved to be Mr. Nias and his party, +with four out of the seven men belonging to the Griper. From the +latter, consisting of a corporal of marines and three seamen, we +learned that they had lost their way within a few hours after +leaving the ship, and had wandered about without anything to guide +them till about ten o'clock on the following day, when they +descried the large flagstaff at a great distance. At this time the +whole party were together; but now unfortunately separated, in +consequence of a difference of opinion respecting the flagstaff, +which Mr. Fife mistook for a smaller one that had been erected +some days before at a considerable distance to the eastward of our +present situation; and with that impression, walked away in a +contrary direction, accompanied by two of his men. The other four, +who had now returned (of whom two were already much debilitated), +determined to make for the flagstaff. When they had walked some +distance and were enabled to ascertain what it was, one of them +endeavoured to overtake Mr. Fife, but was too much fatigued, and +returned to his comrades. They halted during a part of the night, +made a sort of hut of stones and turf to shelter them from the +weather, and kindled a little fire with gunpowder and moss to warm +their feet; they had never been in actual want of food, having +lived upon raw grouse, of which they were enabled to obtain a +quantity sufficient for their subsistence. In the morning they +once more set forward towards the flagstaff, which they reached +within three or four hours after Lieutenant Beechey had left some +provisions on the spot; having eaten some bread, and drunk a +little rum and water, a mixture which they described as perfectly +tasteless and clammy, they renewed their journey towards the +ships, and had not proceeded far, when, notwithstanding the snow +which was constantly falling, they met with footsteps which +directed them to Mr. Nias and his party, by whom they were +conducted to the ships. + +The account they gave us of Mr. Fife and his two companions led us +to believe that we should find them, if still living, at a +considerable distance to the westward; and some parties were just +about to set out in that direction, when the trouble and anxiety +which this mistake would have occasioned us were prevented by the +arrival of another of the searching parties, with the information +that Mr. Fife and the two men were on their way to the ships, +being about five miles to the eastward. Some fresh hands were, +immediately sent to bring them in, and they arrived on board at +ten P.M. after an absence of ninety-one hours, and having been +exposed during three nights to the inclemency of the first wintry +weather we had experienced. Almost the whole of this party were +much exhausted by cold and fatigue, and several of them were +severely frostbitten in their toes and fingers; but, by the skill +and unremitted attention of our medical gentlemen, they were in a +few days enabled to return to their duty. + +At three A.M. of Tuesday, the 14th, the thermometer fell to 9 deg.; +and from this time the commencement of winter may fairly be dated. +On the 20th I considered it a duty incumbent upon me to call for +the opinions of the senior officers of the expedition as to the +expediency of immediately seeking a harbour in which the ships +might securely lie during the ensuing winter. The opinions of the +officers entirely concurring with my own as to the propriety of +immediately resorting to this measure, I determined, whenever the +ice and the weather would allow, to run back to the bay of the +Hecla and Griper, in which neighbourhood alone we had any reason +to believe that a suitable harbour might be found. + +At half past two on the morning of the 22d, the night signal was +made to weigh, and we began to heave at our cables; but such was +the difficulty of raising our anchor and of hauling in our +hawsers, owing to the stiffness of the ropes from frost and the +quantity of ice which had accumulated about them, that it was five +o'clock before the ships were under way. Our rudder, also, was so +choked by the ice which had formed about it, that it could not be +moved till a boat had been hauled under the stern, and the ice +beaten and cut away from it. We ran along to the eastward without +any obstruction, in a channel about five miles wide, till we were +within four or five miles of Cape Hearne, where the bay-ice, in +unbroken sheets of about one third of an inch in thickness, began +to offer considerable impediment to our progress. We at length, +however, struck soundings with twenty-nine fathoms of line, and at +eight P.M. anchored in nine fathoms, on a muddy bottom, a little +to the eastward of our situation on the 5th. + +In going to the westward we passed a shoal and open bay, +immediately adjacent to the harbour which we were now about to +examine, and soon after came to a reef of rocks, in some parts +nearly dry, extending, about three quarters of a mile to the +southward of a low point on the southeastern side of the harbour. +On rounding the reef, on which a quantity of heavy ice was lying +aground, we found that a continuous floe, four or five inches in +thickness, was formed over the whole harbour, which in every other +respect appeared to be fit for our purpose; and that it would be +necessary to cut a canal of two miles in length through the ice, +in order to get the ships into a secure situation for the winter. +We sounded the channel into the harbour about three quarters of a +mile, by making holes in the ice and dropping the lead through, +and found the depth from five to six fathoms. + +The ships weighed at six A.M. on the 24th. the wind being still at +north, and the weather moderate and fine. As soon as the Hecla was +under sail, I went ahead in a boat to sound, and to select an +anchorage for the ships. Near the southwestern point of this +harbour there is a remarkable block of sandstone, somewhat +resembling the roof of a house, on which the ships names were +subsequently engraved by Mr. Fisher. This stone is very +conspicuous in coming from the eastward, and, when kept open to +the southward of the grounded ice at the end of the reef, forms a +good landing mark for the channel into the harbour. Off the end of +the reef the water deepened to six fathoms, and the Hecla's anchor +was dropped in eight fathoms, half a mile within the reef, and +close to the edge of the ice through which the canal was to be +cut. The Griper arrived soon after, and by half past eight A.M. +both ships were secured in the proper position for commencing the +intended operations. + +As soon as our people had breakfasted, I proceeded with a small +party of men to sound and to mark with boarding-pikes upon the ice +the most direct channel we could find to the anchorage, having +left directions for every other officer and man in both ships to +be employed in cutting the canal. This operation was performed by +first marking out two parallel lines, distant from each other a +little more than the breadth of the larger ship. Along each of +these lines a cut was then made with an ice saw, and others again +at right angles to them, at intervals of from ten to twenty feet; +thus dividing the ice into a number of square pieces, which it was +again necessary to subdivide diagonally, in order to give room for +their being floated out of the canal. On returning from the upper +part of the harbour, where I had marked out what appeared to be +the best situation for our winter-quarters, I found that +considerable progress had been made in cutting the canal and in +floating the pieces out of it. To facilitate the latter part of +the process, the seamen, who are always fond of doing things in +their own way, took advantage of a fresh northerly breeze, by +setting some boats sails upon the pieces of ice, a contrivance +which saved both time and labour. This part of the operation, +however, was by far the most troublesome, principally on account +of the quantity of young ice which formed in the canal, and +especially about the entrance, where, before sunset, it had become +so thick that a passage could no longer be found for the detached +pieces without considerable trouble in breaking it. At half past +seven P.M. we weighed our anchors and began to warp up the canal, +but the northerly wind blew so fresh, and the people were so much +fatigued, having been almost constantly at work for nineteen +hours, that it was midnight before we reached the termination of +our first day's labour. + +All hands were again set to work on the morning of the 25th, when +it was proposed to sink the pieces of ice, as they were cut, under +the floe, instead of floating them out, the latter mode having now +become impracticable on account of the lower part of the canal, +through which the ships had passed, being, hard frozen during the +night. To effect this, it was necessary for a certain number of +men to stand upon one end of the piece of ice which it was +intended to sink, while other parties, hauling at the same time +upon ropes attached to the opposite end, dragged the block under +that part of the floe on which the people stood. The officers of +both ships took the lead in this employ, several of them standing +up to their knees in water frequently during the day, with the +thermometer generally at 12 deg., and never higher than 16 deg. At six +P.M. we began to move the ships. The Griper was made fast astern +of the Hecla, and the two ships' companies being divided on each +bank of the canal, with ropes from the Hecla's gangways, soon drew +the ships along to the end of our second day's work. + +Sunday, 26th.--I should on every account have been glad to make +this a day of rest to the officers and men; but the rapidity with +which the ice increased in thickness, in proportion as the general +temperature of the atmosphere diminished, would have rendered a +day's delay of serious importance. I ordered the work, therefore, +to be continued at the usual time in the morning; and such was the +spirited and cheerful manner in which this order was complied +with, as well as the skill which had now been acquired in the art +of sawing and sinking the ice, that although the thermometer was +at 6 deg. in the morning, and rose no higher than 9 deg. during the day, +we had completed the canal at noon, having effected more in four +hours than on either of the two preceding days. The whole length +of this canal was four thousand and eighty-two yards, or nearly +two miles and one third, and the average thickness of the ice was +seven inches. + +At half past one P.M. we began to track the ships along in the +same manner as before, and at a quarter past three we reached our +winter-quarters, and hailed the event with three loud and hearty +cheers from both ships' companies. The ships were in five fathoms +water, a cable's length from the beach on the northwestern side of +the harbour, to which I gave the name of WINTER HARBOUR; and I +called the group of islands which we had discovered in the Polar +Sea the NORTH GEORGIAN ISLANDS. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good +Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' +Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia +Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our +Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various +Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close +of the Year 1819. + + +Having, on the 19th October, reached the station where, in all +probability, we were destined to remain for at least eight or nine +months, during three of, which we were not to see the face of the +sun, my attention was immediately and imperiously called to +various important duties; many of them of a singular nature, such +as had, for the first time, devolved on any officer in his +majesty's navy, and might, indeed, be considered of rare +occurrence in the whole history of navigation. The security of the +ships and the preservation of the various stores were objects of +immediate concern. A regular system to be adopted for the +maintenance of good order and cleanliness, as most conducive to +the health of the crews during the long, dark, and dreary winter, +equally demanded my attention. + +Not a moment was lost, therefore, in the commencement of our +operations. The whole of the masts were dismantled except the +lower ones and the Hecla's main-topmast; the lower yards were +lashed fore and aft amidships, to support the planks of the +housing intended to be erected over the ships; and the whole of +this framework was afterward roofed over with a cloth. The boats, +spars, running rigging, and sails were removed on shore; and, as +soon as the ships were secured and housed over, my whole attention +was directed to the health and comfort of the officers and men. +The surgeon reported that not the slightest disposition to scurvy +had shown itself in either ship. + +Soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour, when the temperature of +the atmosphere had fallen considerably below zero of Fahrenheit, +we found that the steam from the coppers, as well as the breath +and other vapour generated in the inhabited parts of the ship, +began to condense into drops upon the beams and the sides, to such +a degree as to keep them constantly wet. In order to remove this +serious evil, a large stone oven, cased with cast iron, in which +all our bread was baked daring the winter, was placed on the main +hatchway, and the stovepipe led fore and aft on one side of the +lower deck, the smoke being thus carried up the fore hatchway. On +the opposite side of the deck an apparatus had been attached to +the galley-range for conveying a current of heated air between +decks. This apparatus simply consisted of an iron box, about fifteen +inches square, through which passed three pipes of two inches +diameter, communicating below with the external air, and uniting +above in a metal box, fixed to the side of the galley-range; to +this box a copper stovepipe was attached, and conveyed to the +middle part of the lower deck. When a fire was made under the +air-vessel, the air became heated in its passage through the three +pipes, from which it was conveyed through the stovepipe to the +men's berths. While this apparatus was in good order, a moderate +fire produced a current of air of the temperature of 87 deg., at the +distance of seventeen feet from the fireplace; and with a pipe of +wood, or any other imperfect conductor of heat, which would not +allow of its escaping by the way, it might undoubtedly be carried +to a much greater distance. By these means we were enabled to get +rid of the moisture about the berths where the people messed; but +when the weather became more severely cold, it still accumulated +in the bed places occasionally to a serious and very alarming +degree. Among the means employed to prevent the injurious effects +arising from this annoyance, one of the most efficacious, perhaps, +was a screen made of fearnaught, fixed to the beams round the +galley, and dropping within eighteen inches of the deck, which +served to intercept the steam from the coppers, and prevent it, +as before, from curling along the beams, and condensing upon them +into drops. + +For the preservation of health, and as a necessary measure of +economy, a few alterations were made in the quantity and quality +of the provisions issued. I directed the allowance of bread to be +permanently reduced to two thirds, a precaution which, perhaps, it +would have been as well to adopt from the commencement of the +voyage. A pound of preserved meat, together with one pint of +vegetable or concentrated soup per man, was substituted for one +pound of salt beef weekly; a proportion of beer and wine was +served in lieu of spirits; and a small quantity of sourkrout and +pickles, with as much vinegar as could be used, was issued at +regular intervals. The daily proportion of lime-juice and sugar +was mixed together, and with a proper quantity of water, was drunk +by each man in presence of an officer appointed to attend to this +duty. This latter precaution may appear to have been unnecessary +to those who are not aware how much sailors resemble children in +all those points in which their own health and comfort are +concerned. Whenever any game was procured, it was directed to be +invariably served in lieu of, and not in addition to, the +established allowance of other meat, except in a few extraordinary +cases; when such an indulgence was allowed; and in no one +instance, either in quantity or quality, was the slightest +preference given to the officers. + +Great attention was paid to the clothing of the men, and one day +in the week was appointed for the examination of the men's shins +and gums by the medical gentlemen, in order that any slight +appearance of the scurvy might at once be detected, and checked by +timely and adequate means. + +Under circumstances of leisure and inactivity, such as we were now +placed in, and with every prospect of its continuance for a very +large portion of the year, I was desirous of finding some +amusement for the men during this long and tedious interval. I +proposed, therefore, to the officers to get up a play occasionally +on board the Hecla, as the readiest means of preserving among our +crews that cheerfulness and good-humour which had hitherto +subsisted. In this proposal I was readily seconded by the officers +of both ships; and Lieutenant Beechey having been duly elected as +stage-manager, our first performance was fixed for the 5th of +November, to the great delight of the ships' companies. In these +amusements I gladly undertook a part myself, considering that an +example of cheerfulness, by giving a direct countenance to +everything that could contribute to it, was not the least +essential part of my duty, under the peculiar circumstances in +which we were placed. + +In order still farther to promote good-humour among ourselves, as +well as to furnish amusing occupation during the hours of constant +darkness, we set on foot a weekly newspaper, which was to be +called the _North Georgia Gazette and Winter Chronicle_, and of +which Captain Sabine undertook to be the editor, under the promise +that it was to be supported by original contributions from the +officers of the two ships: and I can safely say, that the weekly +contributions had the happy effect of employing the leisure hours +of those who furnished them, and of diverting the mind from the +gloomy prospect which would sometimes obtrude itself on the +stoutest heart. + +Immediately on our arrival in harbour, Captain Sabine had employed +himself in selecting a place for the observatory, which was +erected in a convenient spot, about seven hundred yards to the +westward of the ships. It was also considered advisable +immediately to set about building a house near the beach for the +reception of the clocks and instruments. For this purpose we made +use of a quantity of fir-plank, which was intended for the +construction of spare boats, and which was so cut as not to injure +it for that purpose. The ground was so hard frozen that it +required great labour to dig holes for the upright posts which +formed the support of the sides. The walls of this house being +double, with moss placed between the two, a high temperature +could, even in the severest weather which we might be doomed to +experience, be kept up in it without difficulty by a single stove. + +After our arrival in port we saw several reindeer and a few coveys +of grouse; but the country is so destitute of everything like +cover of any kind, that our sportsmen were not successful in their +hunting excursions, and we procured only three reindeer previous +to the migration of these and the other animals from the island, +which took place before the close of the month of October, leaving +only the wolves and foxes to bear us company during the winter. +The full-grown deer which we killed in the autumn, gave us from +one hundred and twenty to one hundred and seventy pounds of meat +each, and a fawn weighed eighty-four pounds. + +On the 1st of October, Captain Sabine's servant, having been at +some distance from the ships to examine a fox-trap, was pursued by +a large white bear, which followed his footsteps the whole way to +the ships, where he was wounded by several balls, but made his +escape after all. This bear, which was the only one we saw during +our stay in Winter Harbour, was observed to be more purely white +than any we had before seen, the colour of these animals being +generally that of a dirtyish yellow when contrasted with the +whiteness of the ice and snow. + +Some deer being seen near the ships on the 10th, a party was +despatched after them, some of whom having wounded a stag, and +being led on by the ardour of pursuit, forgot my order that every +person should be on board before sunset, and did not return till +late, after we had suffered much apprehension their account. John +Pearson, a marine belonging to the Griper, who was the last that +returned on board, had his hands severely frostbitten, having +imprudently gone away without mittens, and with a musket in his +hand. A party of our people most providentially found him, +although the night was very dark, just as he had fallen down a +steep bank of snow, and was beginning to feel that degree of +torpor and drowsiness which, if indulged, inevitably proves fatal. +When he was brought on board his fingers were quite stiff, and +bent into the shape of that part of the musket which he had been +carrying; and the frost had so far destroyed the animation in his +fingers on one hand, that it was necessary to amputate three of +them a short time after, notwithstanding all the care and +attention paid to him by the medical gentlemen. The effect which +exposure to severe frost has in benumbing the mental as well as +the corporeal faculties, was very striking in this man, as well as +in two of the young gentlemen who returned after dark, and of whom +we were anxious to make inquiries respecting Pearson. When I sent +for them into my cabin, they looked wild, spoke thick and +indistinctly, and it was impossible to draw from them a rational +answer to any of our questions. After being on board for a short +time, the mental faculties appeared gradually to return with the +returning circulation, and it was not till then that a looker-on +could easily persuade himself that they had not been drinking too +freely. In order to guard in some measure against the danger of +persons losing their way, which was more and more to be +apprehended as the days became shorter and the ground more covered +with snow, which gives such a dreary sameness to the country, we +erected on all the hills within two or three miles of the harbour, +finger-posts pointing towards the ships. + +I have before remarked that all the water which we made use of +while within the polar circle was procured from snow either +naturally or artificially dissolved. Soon after the ships were +laid up for the winter, it was necessary to have recourse entirely +to the latter process, which added materially to the expenditure +of fuel during the winter months. The snow for this purpose was +dug out of the drifts which had formed upon the ice round the +ships, and dissolved in the coppers. We found it necessary always +to strain the water thus procured, on account of the sand which +the heavy snowdrifts brought from the island, after which it was +quite pure and wholesome. + +On the 16th it blew a strong gale from the northward, accompanied +by such a constant snowdrift, that, although the weather was quite +clear overhead, the boathouse at the distance of three or four +hundred yards could scarcely be seen from the ships. On such +occasions no person was permitted on any account to leave the +ships. Indeed, when this snowdrift occurred, as it frequently did +in the winter, with a hard gale and the thermometer very low, I +believe that no human being could have remained alive after an +hour's exposure to it. In order, therefore, to secure a +communication between the two ships, a distance not exceeding half +a cable's length, as well as from the ships to the house on shore, +a line was kept extended, as a guide from one to the other. The +meridian, altitude of the sun was observed this day by an +artificial horizon, which I noticed from the circumstance of its +being the last time we had an opportunity of observing it for +about four months. + +On the 26th the sun afforded us sufficient light or writing and +reading in my cabin, the stern-windows exactly facing the south, +from half past nine till half past two; for the rest of the +four-and-twenty hours, we lived, of course, by candle-light. +Nothing could exceed the beauty of the sky to the southeast and +southwest at sunrise and sunset about this period: near the +horizon there was generally a rich bluish purple and a bright arch +of deep red above, the one mingling imperceptibly with the other. + +It now became rather a painful experiment to touch any metallic +substance in the open air with the naked hand; the feeling +produced by it exactly resembling that occasioned by the opposite +extreme of intense heat, and taking off the skin from the part +affected. We found it necessary, therefore, to use great caution +in handling our sextants and other instruments, particularly the +eye-pieces of telescopes, which, if suffered to touch the face, +occasioned an intense burning pain; but this was easily remedied +by covering them over with soft leather. Another effect, with +regard to the use of instruments, began to appear about this time. +Whenever any instrument which had been some time exposed to the +atmosphere, so as to be cooled down to the same temperature, was +suddenly brought below into the cabins, the vapour was instantly +condensed all around it, so as to give the instrument the +appearance of smoking, and the glasses were covered almost +instantly with a thin coating of ice, the removal of which +required great caution, to prevent the risk of injuring them, +until it had gradually thawed, as they acquired the temperature of +the cabin. When a candle was placed in a certain direction from +the instrument with respect to the observer, a number of very +minute _spiculae_ of snow were also seen sparkling around the +instrument, at the distance of two or three inches from it, +occasioned, as we supposed, by the cold atmosphere produced by the +low temperature of the instrument almost instantaneously +congealing into that form the vapour which floated in its +immediate neighbourhood. + +The 4th of November being the last day that the sun would, +independently of the effects of refraction, be seen above our +horizon till the 8th of February, an interval of ninety-six days, +it was a matter of considerable regret to us that the weather +about this time was not sufficiently clear to allow us to see and +make observations on the disappearance of that luminary, in order +that something might be attempted towards determining the amount +of the atmospheric refraction at a low temperature. But though we +were not permitted to take a last farewell, for at least three +months, of that cheering orb, "of this great world both eye and +soul," we nevertheless felt that this day constituted an important +and memorable epoch in our voyage. We had some time before set +about the preparations for our winter's amusements; and the +theatre being ready, we opened on the 5th November, with the +representation of _Miss in her Teens_, which afforded to the men +such a fund of amusement as fully to justify the expectations we +had formed of the utility of theatrical entertainments under our +present circumstances, and to determine me to follow them up at +stated periods. I found, indeed, that even the occupation of +fitting up the theatre and taking it to pieces again, which +employed a number of the men for a day or two before and after +each performance, was a matter of no little importance, when the +immediate duties of the ship appeared by no means sufficient for +that purpose; for I dreaded the want of employment as one of the +worst evils that was likely to befall us. + +About the time of the sun's leaving us, the wolves began to +approach the ships more boldly, howling most piteously on the +beach near us, sometimes for hours together, and on one or two +occasions coming alongside the ships, when everything was quiet at +night; but we seldom saw more than one or two together, and +therefore could form no idea of their number. These animals were +always very shy of coming near our people; and though evidently +suffering much from hunger, never attempted to attack any of them. +The white foxes used also to visit the ships at night, and one of +these was caught in a trap set under the Griper's bows. The +uneasiness displayed by this beautiful little animal during the +time of his confinement, whenever he heard the howling of a wolf +near the ships, impressed us with the opinion that the latter is +in the habit of hunting the fox as his prey. + +The temperature of the atmosphere having about this time become +considerably lower than before, the cracking of the timbers was +very frequent and loud for a time; but generally ceased altogether +in an hour or two after this fall had taken place in the +thermometer, and did not occur again at the same temperature +during the winter. The wind blowing fresh from the northward, with +a heavy snowdrift, made the ship very cold below; so that the +breath and other vapour accumulated during the night in the bed +places and upon the beams, and then immediately froze; hence it +often occupied all hands for two or three hours during the day to +scrape the ice away, in order to prevent the bedding from becoming +wet by the increase of temperature occasioned by the fires. It was +therefore found necessary to keep some of the fires in between +decks at night, when the thermometer was below -15 deg. or -20 deg. in the +open air, especially when the wind was high. To assist in keeping +the lower decks warm, as well as to retard, in some slight degree, +the formation of ice immediately in contact with the ships' bends, +we banked the snow up against their sides as high as the main +chains; and canvass screens were nailed round all the hatchways on +the lower deck. + +The stars of the second magnitude in Ursa Major were just +perceptible to the naked eye a little after noon this day, and the +Aurora Borealis appeared faintly in the southwest at night. About +this time our medical gentlemen began to remark the extreme +difficulty with which sores of every kind healed; a circumstance +that rendered it the more necessary to be cautious in exposing the +men to frostbites, lest the long inactivity and want of exercise +during the cure of sores, in other respects trifling, should +produce serious effects upon the general health of the patients. + +During the following fortnight we were chiefly occupied in +observing various phenomena in the heavens, the vivid coruscations +of the Aurora Borealis, the falling of meteors, and in taking +lunar distances; but the difficulty of making observations in this +climate is inconceivably great; on one occasion the mercury of the +artificial horizon froze into a solid mass. + +About this part of the winter we began to experience a more +serious inconvenience from the bursting of the lemon-juice bottles +by frost, the whole contents being frequently frozen into a solid +mass, except a small portion of highly concentrated acid in the +centre, which in most instances was found to have leaked out, so +that when the ice was thawed it was little better than water. This +evil increased to a very alarming degree in the course of the +winter: some cases being opened in which more than two thirds of +the lemon-juice was thus destroyed, and the remainder rendered +nearly inefficient. + +It was at first supposed that this accident might have been +prevented by not quite filling the bottles, but it was afterward +found that the corks flying out did not save them from breaking. +We observed that the greatest damage was done in those cases which +were stowed nearest to the ship's side, and we therefore removed +all the rest amidships; a precaution which, had it been sooner +known and adopted, would probably have prevented at least a part +of the mischief. The vinegar also became frozen in the casks in +the same manner, and lost a great deal of its acidity when thawed. +This circumstance conferred an additional value on a few gallons +of very highly concentrated vinegar, which had been sent out on +trial upon this and the preceding voyage, and which, when mixed +with six or seven times its own quantity of water, was sufficiently +acid for every purpose. This vinegar, when exposed to the +temperature of 25 deg. below zero, congealed only into a consistence +like that of the thickest honey, but was never sufficiently hard +to break any vessel which contained it. There can be no doubt, +therefore, that on this account, as well as to save stowage, this +kind of vinegar should exclusively be used in these regions; and +for similar reasons of still greater importance, the lemon-juice +should be concentrated. + +We had now reached the shortest day, Wednesday, the 22d, and such +was the occupation which we had hitherto contrived to find during +the first half of our long and gloomy winter, that the quickness +with which it had come upon us was a subject of general remark. So +far, indeed, were we from wanting that occupation of which I had +been apprehensive, especially among the men that it accidentally +came to my knowledge about this period that they complained of not +having time to mend their clothes. This complaint I was as glad to +hear as desirous to rectify; and I therefore ordered that, in +future, one afternoon in each week should be set aside for that +particular purpose. + +The circumstances of our situation being such as have never before +occurred to the crews of any of his majesty's ships, it may not, +perhaps, be considered wholly uninteresting to know in what manner +our time was thus so fully occupied throughout the long and severe +winter which it was our lot to experience, and particularly during +a three months' interval of nearly total darkness. + +The officers and quartermasters were divided into four watches, +which were regularly kept as at sea, while the remainder of the +ships' company were allowed to enjoy their night's rest +undisturbed. The hands were turned up at a quarter before six, and +both decks were well rubbed with stones and warm sand before eight +o'clock, at which time, as usual at sea, both officers and men +went to breakfast. Three quarters of an hour being allowed after +breakfast for the men to prepare themselves for muster, we then +beat to divisions punctually at a quarter past nine, when every +person on board attended on the quarter deck, and a strict +inspection of the men took place as to their personal cleanliness, +and the good condition, as well as sufficient warmth of their +clothing. The reports of the officers having been made to me, the +people were then allowed to walk about, or, more usually, to run +round the upper deck, while I went down to examine the state of +that below. The state of this deck may be said, indeed, to have +constituted the chief source of our anxiety, and to have occupied +by far the greatest share of our attention at this period. +Whenever any dampness appeared, or, what more frequently happened, +any accumulation of ice had taken place during the preceding +night, the necessary means were immediately adopted for removing +it; in the former case usually by rubbing the wood with cloths, +and then directing the warm airpipe towards the place; and in the +latter by scraping off the ice, so as to prevent its wetting the +deck by any accidental increase of temperature. In this respect +the bed-places were particularly troublesome; the inner partition, +or that next the ship's side, being almost invariably covered with +more or less dampness or ice, according to the temperature of the +deck during the preceding night. This inconvenience might, to a +great degree, have been avoided by a sufficient quantity of fuel +to keep up two good fires on the lower deck throughout the +twenty-four hours; but our stock of coals would by no means permit +this, bearing in mind the possibility of our spending a second +winter within the Arctic circle; and this comfort could only, +therefore, be allowed on a few occasions during the most severe +part of the winter. + +In the course of my examination of the lower deck I had always an +opportunity of seeing those few men who were on the sick list, and +of receiving from Mr. Edwards a report of their respective cases; +as also of consulting that gentleman as to the means of improving +the warmth, ventilation, and general comfort of the inhabited +parts of the ship. Having performed this duty, we returned to the +upper deck, where I personally inspected the men; after which they +were sent out to walk on shore, when the weather would permit, +till noon, when they returned on board to their dinner. When the +day was too inclement for them to take this exercise, they were +ordered to run round and round the deck, keeping step to the tune +of an organ, or, not unfrequently, to a song of their own singing. +Among the men were a few who did not at first quite like this +systematic mode of taking exercise; but when they found that no +plea except that of illness was admitted as an excuse, they not +only willingly and cheerfully complied, but made it the occasion +of much humour and frolic among themselves. + +The officers, who dined at two o'clock, were also in the habit of +occupying one or two hours in the middle of the day in rambling on +shore, even in our darkest period, except when a fresh wind and a +heavy snowdrift confined them within the housing of the ships. It +may well be imagined that, at this period, there was but little to +be met with in our walks on shore which could either amuse or +interest us. The necessity of not exceeding the limited distance +of one or two miles, lest a snowdrift, which often rises very +suddenly, should prevent our return, added considerably to the +dull and tedious monotony which day after day presented itself. To +the southward was the sea, covered with one unbroken surface of +ice, uniform in its dazzling whiteness, except that, in some +parts, a few hummocks were seen thrown up somewhat above the +general level. Nor did the land offer much greater variety, being +almost entirely covered with snow, except here and there a brown +patch of bare ground in some exposed situations, where the wind +had not allowed the snow to remain. When viewed from the summit of +the neighbouring hills, on one of those calm and clear days which +not unfrequently occurred during the winter, the scene was such as +to induce contemplations which had, perhaps, more of melancholy +than of any other feeling. Not an object was to be seen on which +the eye could long rest with pleasure, unless when directed to the +spot where our ships lay and where our little colony was planted. +The smoke which there issued from the several fires, affording a +certain indication of the presence of man, gave a partial +cheerfulness to this part of the prospect; and the sound of +voices, which, during the cold weather, could be heard at a much +greater distance than usual, served now and then to break the +silence which reigned around us; a silence far different from that +peaceable composure which characterizes the landscape of a +cultivated country; it was the deathlike stillness of the most +dreary desolation, and the total absence of animated existence. +Such, indeed, was the want of objects to afford relief to the eye +or amusement to the mind, that a stone of more than usual size +appearing above the snow in the direction in which we were going, +immediately became a mark on which our eyes were unconsciously +fixed, and towards which we mechanically advanced. + +We had frequent occasion, in our walks on shore, to remark the +deception which takes place in estimating the distance and +magnitude of objects when viewed over an unvaried surface of snow. +It was not uncommon for us to direct our steps towards what we +took for a large mass of stone at the distance of half a mile from +us, but which we were able to take up in our hands after one +minute's walk. This was more particularly the case when ascending +the brow of a hill, nor did we find that the deception became less +on account of the frequency with which we experienced its effects. + +In the afternoon the men were usually occupied in drawing and +knotting yarns, and in making points and gaskets; a never-failing +resource where mere occupation is required, and which it was +necessary to perform entirely on the lower deck, the yarns +becoming so hard and brittle, when exposed on deck to the +temperature of the atmosphere, as to be too stiff for working, and +very easily broken. I may in this place remark, that our lower +rigging became extremely slack during the severity of the winter, +and gradually tightened again as the spring returned: effects the +very reverse of those which we had anticipated, and which I can +only account for by the extreme dryness of the atmosphere in the +middle of winter, and the subsequent increase of moisture. + +At half past five in the evening the decks were cleared up, and at +six we again beat to divisions, when the same examination of the +men and of their berths and bed-places took place as in the +morning; the people then went to their supper, and the officers to +tea. After this time the men were permitted to amuse themselves as +they pleased, and games of various kinds, as well as dancing and +singing occasionally, went on upon the lower deck till nine +o'clock, when they went to bed and their lights were extinguished. +In order to guard against accidents by fire, where so many fires +and lights were necessarily in use, the quartermasters visited the +lower deck every half hour during the night, and made their report +to the officers of the watches that all was, in this respect, safe +below; and to secure a ready supply of water in case of fire, a +hole was cut twice a day in the ice, close alongside of each ship. +It is scarcely necessary to add, that the evening occupations of +the officers were of a more rational kind than those which engaged +the attention of the men. Of these, reading and writing were the +principal employments, to which were occasionally added a game of +chess, or a tune on the flute or violin, till half past ten, about +which time we all retired to rest. + +Such were the employments which usually occupied us for six days +in the week, with such exceptions only as circumstances at the +time suggested. On Sundays divine service was invariably +performed, and a sermon read on board both ships; the prayer +appointed to be daily used at sea being altered, so as to adapt it +to the service in which we were engaged, the success which had +hitherto attended our efforts, and the peculiar circumstances +under which we were at present placed. The attention paid by the +men to the observance of their religious duties was such as to +reflect upon them the highest credit, and tended in no small +degree to the preservation of that regularity and good conduct for +which, with very few exceptions, they were invariably distinguished. + +Our theatrical entertainments took place regularly once a +fortnight, and continued to prove a source of infinite amusement +to the men. Our stock of plays was so scanty, consisting of one or +two odd volumes, which happened accidentally to be on board, that +it was with difficulty we could find the means of varying the +performances sufficiently; our authors, therefore, set to work, +and produced, as a Christmas piece, a musical entertainment, +expressly adapted to our audience, and having such a reference to +the service on which we were engaged, and the success we had so +far experienced, as at once to afford a high degree of present +recreation, and to stimulate, if possible, the sanguine hopes +which were entertained by all on board, of the complete +accomplishment of our enterprise. We were at one time apprehensive +that the severity of the weather would prevent the continuance of +this amusement, but the perseverance of the officers overcame +every difficulty; and, perhaps for the first time since theatrical +entertainments were invented, more than one or two plays were +performed on board the Hecla with the thermometer below zero on +the stage. + +The _North Georgia Gazette_, which I have already mentioned, was a +source of great amusement, not only to the contributors, but to +those who, from diffidence of their own talents or other reasons, +could not be prevailed on to add their mite to the little stock of +literary composition which was weekly demanded; for those who +declined to write were not unwilling to read, and more ready to +criticise than those who wielded the pen; but it was that +good-humoured sort of criticism that could not give offence. The +subjects handled in this paper were of course various, but +generally applicable to our own situation. + +The return of each successive day had been always very decidedly +marked by a considerable twilight for some time about noon, that +on the shortest day being sufficient to enable us to walk out very +comfortably for about two hours.[*] There was usually, in clear +weather, a beautiful arch of bright red light overspreading the +southern horizon for an hour or two before and after noon, the +light increasing, of course, in strength, as the sun approached +the meridian. Short as the day now was, if, indeed, any part of +the twenty-four hours could be properly called by that name, the +reflection of light from the snow, aided occasionally by a bright +moon, was at all times sufficient to prevent our experiencing, +even under the most unfavourable circumstances, anything like the +gloomy night which occurs in more temperate climates. Especial +care was taken, during the time the sun was below the horizon, to +preserve the strictest regularity in the time of our meals, and in +the various occupations which engaged our attention during the +day; and this, together with the gradual and imperceptible manner +in which the days had shortened, prevented this kind of life, so +novel to us in reality, from appearing very inconvenient, or, +indeed, like anything out of the common way. It must be confessed, +however, that we were not sorry to arrive, without any serious +suffering, at the shortest day; and we watched, with no ordinary +degree of pleasure, the slow approach of the returning sun. + +[Footnote: It will, perhaps, give the best idea of the power of +the sun's light afforded us on this day, to state, that we could, +at noon, read with tolerable ease the same sized type as that in +which this note is printed; but this could only be done by turning +the book directly towards the south.] + +On Christmas day the weather was raw and cold, with a considerable +snowdrift, though the wind was only moderate from the N.W.; but +the snow which falls during the severe winter of this climate is +composed of spiculae so extremely minute, that it requires very +little wind to raise it and carry it along. To mark the day in the +best manner which circumstances would permit divine service was +performed on board the ships; and I directed a small increase in +the men's usual proportion of fresh meat as a Christmas dinner, as +well as an additional allowance of grog, to drink the health of +their friends in England. The officers also met at a social and +friendly dinner, and the day passed with much of the same kind of +festivity by which it is usually distinguished at home; and, to +the credit of the men be it spoken, without any of that disorder +by which it is too often observed by seamen. A piece of English +roast-beef, which formed part of the officers' dinner, had been on +board since the preceding May, and preserved without salt during +that period merely by the antiseptic powers of a cold atmosphere. + +A great many frostbites occurred about this time, 30th, +principally in the men's feet, even when they had been walking +quickly on shore for exercise. On examining their boots, Mr. +Edwards remarked, that the stiffness of the thick leather of which +they were made was such as to cramp the feet, and prevent the +circulation from going on freely; and that this alone was +sufficient to account for their feet having been frostbitten. +Being very desirous of avoiding these accidents, which, from the +increased sluggishness with which the sores healed, were more and +more likely to affect the general health of the patients by long +confinement, I directed a pair of canvass boots, lined with +blanketing or some other woollen stuff, to be made for each man, +using raw hide as soles: this completely answered the desired +purpose, as scarcely any frostbites in the feet afterward +occurred, except under circumstances of very severe exposure. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other +Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of +the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on +Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident. + + +January 1, 1820.--I received this morning the first unpleasant +report of the scurvy having made its appearance among us: Mr. +Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla, had for some days past been +complaining of pains in his legs, which Mr. Edwards at first took +to be rheumatic, but which, together with the appearance of his +gums, now left no doubt of the symptoms being scorbutic. It is so +uncommon a thing for this disease to make its first appearance +among the officers, that Mr. Edwards was naturally curious to +inquire into the cause of it; and at length discovered that Mr. +Scallon's bedding was in so damp a state, in consequence of the +deposite of moisture in his bed-place, which I have before +mentioned, as to leave no doubt that to this circumstance, as the +immediate exciting cause, his illness might justly be attributed. +The difficulty of preventing this deposite of moisture, and the +consequent accumulation of ice, was much greater in the officers' +bed-places than in those of the men, in consequence of the former +being necessarily placed in close contact with the ship's sides, +and forming an immediate communication, as it were, with the +external atmosphere; whereas in the latter there was a vacant +interval of eighteen inches in width interposed between them. To +prevent as much as possible, therefore, the injurious effects of +this evil upon the health of the officers, I appointed certain +days for the airing of their bedding by the fires, as well as for +that of the ships' companies. Every attention was paid to Mr. +Scallon's case by the medical gentlemen, and all our anti-scorbutics +were put in requisition for his recovery: these consisted +principally of preserved vegetable soups, lemon-juice, and sugar, +pickles, preserved currants and gooseberries, and spruce beer. I +began also, about this time, to raise a small quantity of mustard +and cress in my cabin, in small shallow boxes filled with mould, +and placed along the stovepipe; by these means, even in the severity +of winter, we could generally ensure a crop at the end of the sixth +or seventh day after sowing the seed, which, by keeping several +boxes at work, would give to two or three scorbutic patients nearly +an ounce of salad each daily, even though the necessary economy in +our coals did not allow of the fire being kept in at night. The +mustard and cress thus raised were necessarily colourless, from the +privation of light; but, as far as we could judge, they possessed +the same pungent aromatic taste as if grown under ordinary +circumstances. So effectual were these remedies in Mr. Scallon's +case, that, on the ninth evening from the attack, he was able to +walk about on the lower deck for some time, and he assured me that +he could then "run a race." + +At noon on the 7th, the temperature of the atmosphere had got down +to 49 deg. below zero, being the greatest degree of cold which we had +yet experienced; but the weather being quite calm, we walked on +shore for an hour without inconvenience, the sensation of cold +depending much more on the degree of wind at the time than on the +absolute temperature of the atmosphere as indicated by the +thermometer. In several of the accounts given of those countries +in which an intense degree of natural cold is experienced, some +effects are attributed to it which certainly did not come under +our observation in the course of this winter. The first of these +is the dreadful sensation said to be produced on the lungs, +causing them to feel as if torn asunder when the air is inhaled at +a very low temperature. No such sensation was ever experienced by +us, though in going from the cabins into the open air, and _vice +versa_, we were constantly in the habit for some months of +undergoing a change of from 80 deg. to 100 deg., and, in several +instances, 120 deg. of temperature in less than one minute; and, what +is still more extraordinary, not a single inflammatory complaint, +beyond a slight cold, which was cured by common care in a day or +two, occurred during this particular period. The second is, the +vapour with which the air of an inhabited room is charged, +condensing into a shower of snow immediately on the opening of a +door or window communicating with the external atmosphere. This +goes much beyond anything that we had an opportunity of observing. +What happened with us was simply this: on the opening of the doors +at the top and bottom of our hatchway ladders, the vapour was +immediately condensed, by the sudden admission of the cold air, +into a visible form, exactly resembling a very thick smoke, which +settled on all the panels of the doors and bulkheads, and +immediately froze, by which means the latter were covered with a +thick coating of ice, which it was necessary frequently to scrape +off; but we never, to my knowledge, saw the conversion of the +vapour into snow during its fall. + +On the evening of the 15th, the atmosphere being clear and serene, +we were gratified by a sight of the only very brilliant and +diversified display of Aurora Borealis which occurred during the +whole winter. I believe it to be almost impossible for words to +give an idea of the beauty and variety which this magnificent +phenomenon displayed. + +About this time it had been remarked, that a white setter dog had +left the Griper for several nights past at the same time, and had +regularly returned after some hours' absence. As the daylight +increased, we had frequent opportunities of seeing him in company +with a she-wolf, with which he kept up an almost daily intercourse +for several weeks, till at length he returned no more to the +ships; having either lost his way by rambling to too great a +distance, or, what is more likely, perhaps, been destroyed by the +male wolves. Some time after, a large dog of mine, which was also +getting into the habit of occasionally remaining absent for some +time, returned on board a good deal lacerated and covered with +blood, having no doubt maintained a severe encounter with a male +wolf, which we traced to a considerable distance by the tracks on +the snow. An old dog, of the Newfoundland breed, that we had on +board the Hecla, was also in the habit of remaining out with the +wolves for a day or two together; and we frequently watched them +keeping company on the most friendly terms. + +A wolf, which crossed the harbour close to the ships on the 25th, +was observed to be almost entirely white, his body long and +extremely lean, standing higher on his legs than any of the +Esquimaux dogs, but otherwise much resembling them; his tail was +long and bushy, and always hanging between his legs, and he kept +his head very low in running. It is extraordinary that we could +never succeed in killing or catching one of these animals, though +we were for months almost constantly endeavouring to do so. + +On the 1st and 2d of February the weather was rather hazy, so that +the sun could not have been seen had it been above the horizon; +but the 3d was a beautifully clear and calm day. At eight A.M. a +cross, consisting of the usual vertical and horizontal rays, was +seen about the moon. At twenty minutes before apparent noon, the +sun was seen from the Hecla's main-top, at the height of fifty-one +feet above the sea, being the first time that this luminary had +been visible to us since the 11th of November, a period of +eighty-four days, being twelve days less than the time of its +remaining actually beneath the horizon, independently of the +effects of atmospherical refraction. On ascending the main-top, I +found the sun to be plainly visible over the land to the south; +but at noon there was a dusky sort of cloud hanging about the +horizon, which prevented our seeing anything like a defined limb, +so as to measure or estimate its altitude correctly. + +At noon on the 7th we had the first clear view of the sun which we +had yet enjoyed since its reappearance above our horizon, and an +indistinct parhelion, or mock sun, slightly prismatic, was seen on +the eastern side of it, at the distance of 22 deg. + +There was now sufficient daylight, from eight o'clock till four, +to enable us to perform with great facility any work outside the +ships. I was not sorry to commence upon some of the occupations +more immediately connected with the equipment of the ships for sea +than those to which we had hitherto been obliged to have recourse +as mere employment. We therefore began this day to collect stones +for ballast, of which it was calculated that the Hecla would +require in the spring nearly seventy tons, besides twenty tons of +additional water, to make up for the loss of weight by the +expenditure of provisions and stores. These stones were brought +down on sledges about half a mile to the beach, where they were +broken into a convenient size for stowage, and then weighed in +scales erected on the beach for the purpose; thus affording to the +men a considerable quantity of bodily exercise whenever the +weather would permit them to be so employed. + +The distance at which sounds were heard in the open air, during +the continuance of intense cold, was so great as constantly to +afford matter of surprise to us, notwithstanding the frequency +with which we had occasion to remark it. We have, for instance, +often heard people distinctly conversing, in a common tone of +voice, at the distance of a mile; and to-day I heard a man singing +to himself as he walked along the beach, at even a greater +distance than this. Another circumstance also occurred to-day, +which may perhaps be considered as worthy of notice. Lieutenant +Beechey, and Messrs. Beverly and Fisher, in the course of a walk +which led them to a part of the harbour, about two miles directly +to leeward of the ships, were surprised by suddenly perceiving a +smell of smoke, so strong as even to impede their breathing, till, +by walking on a little farther, they got rid of it. This +circumstance shows to what a distance the smoke from the ships was +carried horizontally, owing to the difficulty with which it rises +at a very low temperature of the atmosphere. + +From four P.M. on the 14th till half past seven on the following +morning, being an interval of fifteen hours and a half, during +which time the weather was clear and nearly calm, a thermometer, +fixed on a pole between the ships and the shore, never rose above +-54 deg., and was once during that interval, namely, at six in the +morning, as low as -55 deg. During the lowest temperature above +mentioned, which was the most intense degree of cold marked by the +spirit-thermometer during our stay in Winter Harbour, not the +slightest inconvenience was suffered from exposure to the open air +by a person well clothed, as long as the weather was perfectly +calm; but, in walking against a very light air of wind, a smart +sensation was experienced all over the face, accompanied by a pain +in the middle of the forehead, which soon became rather severe. We +amused ourselves in freezing some mercury during the continuance +of this cold weather, and by beating it out on an anvil previously +reduced to the temperature of the atmosphere; it did not appear to +be very malleable when in this state, usually breaking after two +or three blows from the hammer. + +The increased length of the day, and the cheering presence of the +sun for several hours above the horizon, induced me, notwithstanding +the severity of the weather, to open the dead-lights of my +stern windows, in order to admit the daylight, of which, in our +occupations below, we had entirely been deprived for more than four +months. I had soon, however, occasion to find that this change was +rather premature, and that I had not rightly calculated on the length +of the winter in Melville Island. The Hecla was fitted with double +windows in her stern, the interval between the two sashes being about +two feet; and within these some curtains of baize had been nailed +close in the early part of the winter. On endeavouring now to remove +the curtains, they were found to be so strongly cemented to the +windows by the frozen vapour collected between them, that it was +necessary to cut them off in order to open the windows; and from the +space between the double sashes we removed more than twelve large +buckets full of ice or frozen vapour, which had accumulated in the +same manner. + +About noon on the 16th, a parhelion, faintly prismatic, appeared +on each side of the sun, continuing only for half an hour. +Notwithstanding the low temperature of the external atmosphere, +the officers contrived to act, as usual, the play announced for +this evening; but it must be confessed that it was almost too cold +for either the actors or the audience to enjoy it, especially for +those of the former who undertook to appear in female dresses. + +In the constant hope that each succeeding day would produce some +amendment in the weather, we endeavoured contentedly to put up +with the cold, which, however, continued to be so intense in the +cabin for several weeks after this, that it was impossible to sit +there without being warmly wrapped up; and it was not uncommon for +us, at this period, to reverse the usual order of things, by +throwing off our great coats when we went on deck to warm +ourselves by exercise (the only mode we had of doing so), and +immediately resuming them on coming below. + +With our present temperature, the breath of a person at a little +distance looked exactly like the smoke of a musket just fired, and +that of a party of men employed upon the ice to-day resembled a +thick white cloud. + +At a quarter past ten on Thursday, the 24th, while the men were +running round the decks for exercise, and were on that account +fortunately well clothed, the house on shore was discovered to be +on fire. All the officers and men of both ships instantly ran up +to extinguish it; and having, by great exertion, pulled off the +roof with ropes, and knocked down a part of the sides, so as to +allow snow to be thrown upon the flames, we succeeded in getting +it under after three quarters of an hour, and fortunately before +the fire had reached that end of the house where the two clocks, +together with the transit and other valuable instruments, were +standing in their cases. Having removed these, and covered the +ruins with snow, to prevent any remains of fire from breaking out +again, we returned on board till more temperate weather should +enable us to dig out the rest of the things, among which nothing +of any material consequence was subsequently found to have +suffered injury; and, having mustered the ships' companies to see +that they had put on dry clothes before going to dinner, they were +employed daring the rest of the day in drying those which had been +wet. The appearance which our faces presented at the fire was a +curious one, almost every nose and cheek having become quite white +with frostbites in five minutes after being exposed to the +weather; so that it was deemed necessary for the medical +gentlemen, together with some others appointed to assist them, to +go constantly round while the men were working at the fire, and to +rub with snow the parts affected, in order to restore animation. +Notwithstanding this precaution, which, however, saved many +frostbites, we had an addition of no less than sixteen men to the +sick lists of both ships in consequence of this accident. Among +these there were four or five cases which kept the patients +confined for several weeks; but John Smith, of the artillery, who +was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant +Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fire broke +out, was unfortunate enough to suffer much more severely. In their +anxiety to save the dipping-needle, which was standing close to +the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediately ran +out with it; and Smith, not having time to put on his gloves, had +his fingers in half an hour so benumbed and the animation so +completely suspended, that on his being taken on board by Mr. +Edwards, and having his hands plunged into a basin of cold water, +the surface of the water was immediately frozen by the intense +cold thus suddenly communicated to it; and, notwithstanding the +most humane and unremitting attention paid to them by the medical +gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, to resort to +the amputation of a part of four fingers on one hand and three on +the other. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected +on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion +of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the +Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos +and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, +and other Occurrences to the Close of May. + + +Before sunrise on the morning of the 1st of March, Lieutenant +Beechey remarked so much bright red light near the southeastern +horizon, that he constantly thought the sun was rising nearly half +an hour before it actually appeared; there was a column of light +above the sun similar to those which we had before seen. The day +being clear and moderate, a party of men were employed in digging +out the things which were buried in the ruins; the clocks were +removed on board for examination, and preparations were made to +rebuild the house for their reception. + +The 5th of March was the most mild and pleasant day we had +experienced for several weeks, and after divine service had been +performed, almost all the officers and men in both ships were glad +to take advantage of it, by enjoying a long walk upon the +neighbouring hills. The weather had been hazy, with light snow and +some clouds in the morning; but the latter gradually dispersed +after noon, affording us the first day to which we could attach +the idea of spring. + +We continued to enjoy the same temperature and enlivening weather +on the 7th, and now began to flatter ourselves in earnest that the +season had taken that favourable change for which we had so long +been looking with extreme anxiety and impatience. This hope was +much strengthened by a circumstance which occurred to-day, and +which, trifling as it would have appeared in any other situation +than ours, was to us a matter of no small interest and satisfaction. +This was no other than the thawing of a small quantity of snow in +a favourable situation upon the black paintwork of the ship's stern, +which exactly faced the south; being the first time that such an +event had occurred for more than five months. + +The severe weather which, until the last two or three days, we had +experienced, had been the means of keeping in a solid state all +the vapour which had accumulated and frozen upon the ship's sides +on the lower deck. As long as it continued in this state, it did +not prove a source of annoyance, especially as it had no +communication with the bed-places. The late mildness of the +weather, however, having caused a thaw to take place below, it now +became necessary immediately to scrape off the coating of ice, and +it will, perhaps, be scarcely credited, that we this day removed +about one hundred buckets full, each containing from five to six +gallons, being the accumulation which had taken place in an +interval of less than four weeks. It may be observed, that this +vapour must principally have been produced from the men's breath, +and from the steam of their victuals during meals, that from the +coppers being effectually carried on deck by the screen which I +have before mentioned. + +On the 9th it blew a hard gale from the northward and westward, +raising a snowdrift, which made the day almost as inclement as in +the midst of winter. The wind very suddenly ceased in the evening, +and while the atmosphere near the ships was so serene and +undisturbed that the smoke rose quite perpendicularly, we saw the +snowdrift on the hills, at one or two miles' distance, whirled up +into the air, in columns several hundred feet high, and carried +along by the wind, sometimes to the north, and at others in the +opposite direction. The snow thus raised at times resembled +waterspouts, but more frequently appeared like smoke issuing from +the tops of the hills, and as such was at first represented to me. + +It blew a strong breeze from the N.b.W., with a heavy snowdrift, +on the 12th, which continued, with little intermission, till near +noon on the 14th; affording us a convincing proof that the hopes +with which we had flattered ourselves of the speedy return of +spring were not yet to be accomplished. + +On the 16th, there being little wind, the weather was again +pleasant and comfortable, though the thermometer remained very +low. + +This evening the officers performed the farces of the _Citizen_ +and the _Mayor of Garratt_, being the last of our theatrical +amusements for this winter, the season having now arrived when +there would no longer be a want of occupation for the men, and +when it became necessary also to remove a part of the roofing to +admit light to the officers' cabins. Our poets were again set to +work on this occasion, and an appropriate address was spoken on +the closing of the North Georgia Theatre, than which we may, +without vanity, be permitted to say, none had ever done more real +service to the community for whose benefit it was intended. + +On the 23d we found, by digging a hole in the ice, in the middle +of the harbour, where the depth of water was four fathoms and a +quarter, that its thickness was six feet and a half, and the snow +on the surface of it eight inches deep. This may be considered a +fair specimen of the average formation of ice in this neighbourhood +since the middle of the preceding September: and as the freezing +process did not stop for six weeks after this, the produce of the +whole winter may, perhaps, be reasonably taken at seven, or seven +and a half feet. In chopping this ice with an axe the men found it +very hard and brittle, till they arrived within a foot of the lower +surface, where it became soft and spongy. + +Being extremely anxious to get rid, as early as possible, of the +drying of our washed clothes upon the lower deck, I had to-day a +silk handkerchief washed and hung up under the stern, in order to +try the effect of the sun's rays upon it. In four hours it became +thoroughly dry, the thermometer in the shade being from -18 deg. to +-6 deg. at the time. This was the first article that had been dried +without artificial heat for six months, and it was yet another +month before flannel could be dried in the open air. When this is +considered, as well as that, during the same period, the airing of +the bedding, the drying of the bed-places, and the ventilation of +the inhabited parts of the ship, were wholly dependant on the same +means, and this with a very limited supply of fuel, it may, +perhaps be conceived, in some degree, what unremitting attention +was necessary to the preservation of health, under circumstances +so unfavourable and even prejudicial. + +The morning of April 27th being very fine, and the thermometer at ++6 deg., the ship's company's bedding was hung up to air, between the +fore and main rigging, being the first time we had ventured to +bring it from the lower deck for nearly eight months. While it was +out, the berths and bed-places were fumigated with a composition +of gunpowder mixed with vinegar, and known familiarly by the name +of _devils_; an operation which had been regularly gone through +once a week during the winter. + +For the last three or four days of April the snow on the black +cloth of our housing had begun to thaw a little during a few hours +in the middle of the day, and on the 30th so rapid a change took +place in the temperature of the atmosphere, that the thermometer +stood at the freezing, or, as it may more properly be termed in +this climate, the thawing point, being the first time that such an +event had occurred for nearly eight months, or since the 9th of +the preceding September. This temperature was to our feelings, so +much like that of summer, that I was under the necessity of using +my authority to prevent the men from making such an alteration in +their clothing as might have been attended with very dangerous +consequences. The thermometer had ranged from -32 deg. to +32 deg. in the +course of twenty days. There was, at this period, more snow upon +the ground than at any other time of the year, the average depth +on the lower parts of the land being four or five inches, but much +less upon the hills; while in the ravines a very large quantity +had been collected. The snow at this time became so soft, from the +influence of the sun upon it, as to make walking very laborious +and unpleasant. + +The fine and temperate weather with which the month of April had +concluded, induced Captain Sabine to set the clocks going, in +order to commence his observations for the pendulum, and he now +took up his quarters entirely on shore for that purpose. On the +first of May, however, it blew a strong gale from the northward, +which made it impossible to keep up the desired temperature in the +house: and so heavy was the snowdrift, that in a few hours the +house was nearly covered, and we were obliged to communicate with +Captain Sabine and his attendants through a small window, from +which the snow was, with much labour, cleared away, the door being +quite inaccessible. We saw the sun at midnight for the first time +this season. + +The gale and snowdrift continued on the following day, when we had +literally to dig out the sentries, who attended the fire at the +house, in order to have them relieved. + +On the 6th, the thermometer rose no higher than +8 1/2 deg. during +the day; but, as the wind was moderate, and it was high time to +endeavour to get the ships once more fairly afloat, we commenced +the operation of cutting the ice about them. In order to prevent +the men suffering from wet and cold feet, a pair of strong boots +and boot-stockings were on this occasion served to each. + +On the 15th, two or three coveys of ptarmigan were seen, after +which they became more and more numerous, and a brace or two were +almost daily procured for the sick, for whose use they were +exclusively reserved. As it was of the utmost importance, under +our present circumstances, that every ounce of game which we might +thus procure should be served in lieu of other meat, I now renewed +the orders formerly given, that every animal killed was to be +considered as public property; and, as such, to be regularly +issued like any other kind of provision, without the slightest +distinction between the messes of the officers and those of the +ships' companies. + +Some of our men having, in the course of their shooting +excursions, been exposed for several hours to the glare of the sun +and snow, returned at night much affected with that painful +inflammation in the eyes occasioned by the reflection of intense +light from the snow, aided by the warmth of the sun, and called in +America "snow blindness." This complaint, of which the sensation +exactly resembles that produced by large particles of sand or dust +in the eyes, is cured by some tribes of American Indians by +holding them over the steam of warm water; but we found a cooling +wash, made by a small quantity of acetate of lead mixed with cold +water, more efficacious in relieving the irritation, which was +always done in three or four days, even in the most severe cases, +provided the eyes were carefully guarded from the light. As a +preventive of this complaint, a piece of black crape was given to +each man, to be worn as a kind of short veil attached to the hat, +which we found to be very serviceable. A still more convenient +mode, adopted by some of the officers, was found equally +efficacious; this consisted in taking the glasses out of a pair of +spectacles, and substituting black or green crape, the glass +having been found to heat the eyes and increase the irritation. + +On the 17th we completed the operation of cutting the ice round +the Hecla, which was performed in the following manner. We began +by digging a large hole under the stern, being the same as that in +which the tide-pole was placed, in order to enter the saw, which +occupied us nearly two days, only a small number of men being able +to work at it. In the mean time, all the snow and rubbish was +cleared away from the ship's side, leaving only the solid ice to +work upon; and a trench, two feet wide, was cut the whole length +of the starboard side, from the stem to the rudder, keeping within +an inch or two of the bends; and taking care here and there to +leave a dike, to prevent the water which might ooze into one part +from filling up the others in which the men were working. In this +manner was the trench cut with axes to the depth of about four +feet and a half, leaving only eighteen inches for the saws to cut, +except in those places where the dikes remained. The saw, being +then entered in the hole under the stern, was worked in the usual +manner, being suspended by a triangle made of three spars: one cut +being made on the outer part of the trench, and a second within an +inch or two of the bends, in order to avoid injuring the planks. A +small portion of ice being broken off now and then by bars, +handspikes, and ice-chisels, floated, to the surface, and was +hooked out by piecemeal. This operation was a cold and tedious one +and required nine days to complete it. When the workmen had this +morning completed the trench within ten or twelve feet of the +stern, the ship suddenly disengaged herself from the ice, to which +she had before been firmly adhering on the larboard side, and rose +in the water about ten inches abaft, and nearly eighteen inches +forward, with a considerable surge. This circumstance it was not +difficult to explain. In the course of the winter, the strong +eddy-winds about the ships had formed round them a drift of snow +seven or eight feet deep in some parts, and perhaps weighing a +hundred tons; by which the ice, and the ships with it, were +carried down much below the natural level at which they would +otherwise have floated. In the mean time the ships had become +considerably lighter, from expenditure of several months' +provisions: so that, on both these accounts, they had naturally a +tendency to rise in the water as soon as they were set at liberty. + +A party of hands were occupied in breaking and weighing the stones +for ballast, while others were getting out the sails and boats; and +our carpenters, armourers, coopers, and sailmakers having each +their respective employments, our little colony now presented the +most busy and bustling scene that can be imagined. It was found +necessary to caulk every part of the upper works, as well as all +the decks, the seams having been so much opened by the frost as to +require at least one, and in many parts two threads of oakum, +though the ship had scarcely ever laboured at all since she was +last caulked. I also at this time laid out a small garden, planting +it with radishes, onions, mustard, and cress; and a similar attempt +was made by Lieutenant Liddon; but, notwithstanding every care and +attention which could be paid to it, this experiment may be said to +have wholly failed, the radishes not exceeding an inch in length by +the latter end of July, and the other seeds being altogether thrown +away. I may remark, however, that some common ships' peas, which +were sown by our people for their amusement, were found to thrive +so well, that, had I been sooner aware of it, a great quantity of +the leaves at least of this vegetable might have been grown, which, +when boiled and eaten as greens, would have been no small treat to +persons deprived of fresh vegetable substance for more than ten +months. + +Having considered that an examination of the extent and +productions of the island might be conducive to the improvement of +the geography and natural history of these regions, and the good +state of health enjoyed by the crews permitting a certain number +of men to be spared from each ship during their equipment for sea, +I now determined to undertake a journey into the interior for this +purpose, accompanied by a certain number of officers and men who +volunteered their services on the occasion; and the 1st of June +was fixed for our departure. + +Early on the morning of the 24th Mr. Allison reported that he had +felt a few drops of rain fall upon his face, an event which we had +scarcely dared to anticipate so soon, but which was hailed with +much satisfaction, as nothing appears to be so effectual as rain +in producing the dissolution of the ice. The clouds had a watery +appearance throughout the day, and at half past eight in the +evening we were agreeably surprised by a smart shower of rain, +which was shortly after succeeded by several others. + +Early on the morning of the 29th the wind increased to a fresh +gale from the northward and westward, which continued during the +day, with a heavy fall of snow and a tremendous drift, that +prevented our seeing to the distance of more than twenty yards +around the ships. The following day being fine, I took my +travelling party to the top of the northeast hill, in order to try +the cart which had been constructed for carrying the tents and +baggage, and which appeared to answer very well. The view from +this hill was not such as to offer much encouragement to our hopes +of future advancement to the westward. The sea still presented the +same unbroken and continuous surface of solid and impenetrable +ice, and this ice could not be less than from six to seven feet in +thickness, as we knew it to be about the ships. When to this +circumstance was added the consideration that scarcely the +slightest symptoms of thawing had yet appeared, and that in three +weeks from this period the sun would again begin to decline to the +southward, it must be confessed that the most sanguine and +enthusiastic among us had some reason to be staggered in the +expectations they had formed of the complete accomplishment of our +enterprise. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey across Melville Island to the Northern Shore, and Return +to the Ships by a different Route. + + +The weather being favourable on the morning of the 1st of June, I +made such arrangements as were necessary previous to my departure +on our intended journey. I directed Lieutenants Liddon and Beechey +to proceed with all possible despatch in the equipment of the +ships for sea, having them ready to sail by the end of June, in +order that we might be able to take advantage of any favourable +alteration in the state of the ice at an earlier period than +present appearances allowed us to anticipate. + +The party selected to accompany me, out of the numerous volunteers +on this occasion, consisted of Captain Sabine, Messrs. Fisher, +Nias, Reid, and Sergeant McMahon, of the marines, Sergeant Martin, +of the artillery, and three seamen and two marines belonging to +both ships, making a total of twelve, including myself. We were +supplied with provisions for three weeks, according to the daily +proportion of one pound of biscuit, two thirds of a pound of +preserved meat, one ounce of salep powder, one ounce of sugar, and +half a pint of spirits for each man. Two tents, of the kind called +in the army horsemen's tents, were made of blankets, with two +boarding-pikes fixed across at each end, and a ridge-rope along +the top, which, with stones laid upon the foot of the blankets, +made a very comfortable and portable shelter. These tents, with +the whole of the provisions, together with a _conjuror_ or cooking +apparatus, and a small quantity of wood for fuel, amounting on the +whole to eight hundred pounds, were carried upon a strong but +light cart constructed for the purpose: this method having been +decided on as the most convenient for the country in which we were +about to travel. + +Each officer and man was also furnished with a blanket made into a +bag, with a drawing-string at each end, a pair of spare shoes, and +stockings, a flannel shirt, and a cap to sleep in. The clothing +and blankets were carried on our backs in knapsacks, those of the +officers weighing from seventeen to twenty-four pounds each, and +one between every two men weighing twenty-four pounds, to be +carried for half a day alternately. + +At five P.M. we left the ships, accompanied by a large party of +officers and men from each, who were desirous of relieving us from +the weight of our knapsacks for an hour or two; and, having been +cheered by the ships on our departure, we went round the head of +the harbour, and ascended the northeast hill, our companions left +us at eight P.M., and we proceeded across a level plain almost +entirely covered with snow, which, however, was so hard as to make +the travelling very good; and the cart was dragged along without +difficulty. At eleven P.M. we came to three remarkable round +hills; composed entirely of sand and masses of sandstone, and +halted to dine close to the northward of them. Those parts of the +land which were clear of snow appeared to be more productive than +those in the immediate neighbourhood of Winter Harbour, the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, and poppy being more abundant, and the moss +more luxuriant; we, could not, however, collect a sufficient +quantity of the slender wood of the willow, in a dry state, for +the purpose of dissolving snow for water, and were therefore +obliged to use a part of the fuel which we had provided for that +purpose. The thermometer stood at 31 deg. at midnight. + +Having set off soon after midnight, at the distance of half a mile +in a N.b.E. direction we came to a piece of frozen water, half a +mile in length and two hundred yards wide, situated on the south +side of the range of hills which bound the prospect from Winter +Harbour. The ice on the surface of this lake or pond was in some +parts nearly dissolved, and in all too soft to allow us to cross +it. We halted at half past six A.M., and pitched the tents on the +hardest ground we could find, but it became quite swampy in the +course of the day. We killed seven ptarmigan, and saw two plovers +and two deer, being the first we had met with this season, with a +fawn so small as to leave no doubt of its having been dropped +since the arrival of the female upon the island. They were so wild +as not to allow us to approach them within a quarter of a mile. +The day was fine, with light and variable airs; the thermometer +stood at 34 deg. in the shade at seven A.M., at which time it was +unfortunately broken. + +We again set forward at two A.M. on the 3d, crossing one or two +ravines, running E.N.E. and W.S.W., in which there was a large +collection of snow, but as yet no appearance of water in the +bottom of them. Captain Sabine and myself, being considerably +ahead of the rest of the party, had sat down to wait for them, +when a fine reindeer came trotting up, and played round us for a +quarter of an hour, within thirty yards. We had no gun, nor do I +know that we should have killed it if we had, there being already +as much weight upon the cart as the men could well drag, and +having no fuel to spare for cooking; besides, we felt it would +have been but an ill return for the confidence which he seemed +willing to place in us. On hearing our people talking on the +opposite side of the ravine, the deer immediately crossed over, +and went directly up to them, with very little caution; and they +being less scrupulous than we were, one or two shots were +immediately fired at him, but without effect; on which he again +crossed over to where we were sitting, approaching us nearer than +before. As soon as we rose up and walked on, he accompanied us +like a dog, sometimes trotting ahead of us, and then returning +within forty or fifty yards. When we halted, at six A.M., to make +the usual observations, he remained by us till the rest of the +party came up, and then trotted off. The reindeer is by no means a +graceful animal; its high shoulders, and an awkward stoop in its +head, giving it rather a deformed appearance. Our new acquaintance +had no horns; he was of a brownish colour, with a black saddle, a +broad black rim round the eyes, and very white about the tail. We +observed that, whenever he was about to set off, he made a sort of +playful gambol, by rearing on his hind legs. + +At two o'clock on the morning of the 4th we continued our journey +to the northward, over the same snowy and level plain as before, +than which it is impossible to conceive anything more dreary and +uninteresting. It frequently happened that, for an hour together, +not a single spot of uncovered ground could be seen. The breeze +freshened up to a gale from the S.S.E. as we proceeded, and the +men, as if determined not to forget that they were sailors, set a +large blanket upon the cart as a sail, which, upon the present +level ground, was found to be of material assistance. The snow was +deep and rather soft, which made the travelling heavy; and as the +wind produced a good deal of snowdrift, most of the bare patches +of ground became covered up, so that, when our time for halting +had arrived, not a piece of ground could be seen on which to pitch +the tents. Captain Sabine and myself went forward to look out for +a spot, and at length were fortunate to meet with one, on which +there was just room for our little encampment. It was with some +difficulty, by building a wall with stones and our knapsacks, that +we prevented its being covered with snow before the party came up, +which they did at half past seven A.M., having travelled ten miles +in a N.W.b.N. direction. + +By the time we had secured the tents the wind blew hard, with a +continued fall, as well as drift of snow, so that we could not but +consider ourselves fortunate in having met with a spot of ground +in good time. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, we +found the tents afford us very comfortable and sufficient shelter, +the cart being tilted up to windward of them, so as to break up +some measure the violence of the wind; and, when wrapped up, or, +rather, enclosed in our blanket bags, we were generally quite warm +enough to enjoy the most sound and refreshing repose. + +It continued to blow and snow till seven P.M., when the wind +having veered to the S.W., and become more moderate, we struck the +tents; and having now placed the men's knapsacks on the cart, to +enable them to drag with greater facility, we proceeded on our +journey to the northward. We passed a narrow but deep ravine lying +across our course, in some parts of which the snow reached nearly +to a level with the banks, forming a kind of bridges or causeways, +on one of which we crossed without difficulty. The men had hoisted +one sail upon the cart at first setting off; but the wind being +now, as they expressed it, "on the larboard quarter," a second +blanket was rigged as a mainsail, to their great amusement as well +as relief. + +After crossing a second ravine, on the north side of which the +ground rose considerably, we entered upon another snowy plain, +where there was nothing to be seen in any direction but snow and +sky. To make it the more dreary, a thick fog came on as the night +advanced; and as this prevented our taking any mark more than +fifty or a hundred yards ahead, we had to place the compass, by +which we were now entirely travelling, upon the ground every five +minutes; and as it traversed with great sluggishness, we made a +very crooked and uncertain course. For more than two hours we did +not pass a single spot of uncovered ground, nor even a stone +projecting above the snow. + +The fog continued too thick to allow us to move till six A.M., at +which time we resumed our journey. There was a broad and distant +haze-bow of very white and dazzling light directly opposite the +sun. The weather being still too foggy to see more than a quarter +of a mile ahead, it was with considerable difficulty that we could +proceed on a tolerably straight course. To effect this, it was +necessary to determine the point on which we were walking by the +bearing of the sun, which was still visible, and the apparent +time, and then to take a mark ahead by which our course was to be +directed. From the thickness of the weather, however, it was +necessary to repeat this operation every five or ten minutes, +which, together with the uniform whiteness and intense glare of +the snow, became so extremely painful to the eyes, that Mr. Fisher +and myself, who went ahead as guides, soon became affected with +snow blindness, and the headmost man at the cart, whose business +it was constantly to watch our motions, began to suffer in a +similar manner from the same cause. + +It may, perhaps, be conceived, then, under these circumstances, +how pleasing was the relief afforded by our seeing, at eight A.M., +a stripe of black or uncovered land ahead, which proved to be the +bank of a ravine fifty or sixty feet deep and three hundred yards +wide, on the north side of which we pitched the tents, having made +good only one mile and a half, the snow being so soft and deep as +to make it difficult to drag the cart through it. + +The latitude observed here was 75 deg. 22' 43", and the longitude, by +the chronometer, 111 deg. 14' 26"; in which situation a cylinder of +tin, containing an account of our visit, was deposited under a +pile of stones eight feet high and seven feet broad at the base. + +The wind increased to a fresh breeze from the S.S.E. on the 6th, +with a sharp frost, making it very cold in the tents, which we +therefore struck at four A.M., and at the distance of half a mile +came to the summit of a hill overlooking what appeared to be a +frozen sea before us. We then descended the hill, with the +intention of pushing forward to determine whether the white and +level space before us was the sea or not. We had not proceeded +far, however, when the clouds began to gather heavily in the +southeast, and shortly after snow and sleet began to fall. Being +unwilling, therefore, to allow the men's clothes to be wet when +there was no absolute occasion for it, we halted on a piece of dry +ground, and, having built a wall six feet high to shelter us from +the weather, pitched the tents very comfortably under the lee of +it till the weather should allow us to proceed. + +At six P.M., the wind having gradually got round to the N.N.E., +and the weather being more clear and cold, I set out, accompanied +by Messrs. Nias and Reid, and a quartermaster of the Griper, with +the intention of examining the situation and appearance of the sea +to the northward; leaving the rest of the party, several of whom +were suffering from snow-blindness, though otherwise in good +health, to remain quietly in the tents till our return. Having +travelled N.N.W. a mile and a half through much deep snow, of +which a good deal had fallen during the day, we came to some ice +thrown up on the beach, having cracks in it parallel to the line +of the shore, which we immediately recognised to be of the same +kind as those to which we had so long been accustomed in Winter +Harbour, and which are occasioned by the rise and fall of the +tide. We turned to the westward along the beach, and at the +distance of two miles ascended a point of land in that direction, +from whence we had a commanding view of the objects around us. As +soon as we had gained the summit of this point, which is about +eighty feet above the sea, we had an additional confirmation that +it was the sea which we had now reached, the ice being thrown upon +the beach under the point, and as far as we could see to the +westward, in large, high, irregular masses, exactly similar to +those which had so often afforded us anchorage and shelter upon +the southern shores of the island. Being desirous, however, of +leaving nothing uncertain respecting it, we walked out a few +hundred yards upon the ice, and began with a boarding-pike and our +knives, which were all the tools we had, to dig a hole in it, in +order to taste the water beneath. After nearly two hours' labour, +we could only get down as many feet, the ice being very hard, +brittle, and transparent; more so, as we imagined, than salt-water +ice usually is, which made us the more desirous to get through it. +I therefore determined to return to our people, and to remove our +encampment hither, for the purpose of completing the hole through +the ice with all our hands, while we were obtaining the necessary +observations on shore. + +On our return to the tents, we dined, and rested till one o'clock +on the morning of the 7th, when we set out for the point, at which +we did not arrive till half past four, the snow being here so deep +as to make the cart an improper, and, indeed, almost impracticable +mode of conveying our baggage. It froze all day in the shade, with +a fresh breeze from the north; and, though the tents were pitched +under the lee of the grounded ice upon the beach, we found it +extremely cold; all the pools of water were frozen hard during the +night, and, some of our canteens burst from the same cause. The +people were allowed to rest after their supper till four P.M., and +were then set to work upon the ice and in building a monument on +the top of the Point. + +We dined at midnight; and at half past one A.M. on the 8th struck +the tents, and drew the cart to the higher part of the Point, +where we occupied two hours in completing our monument, which is +of a conical form, twelve feet broad at the base, and as many in +height. Within it were deposited a tin cylinder, containing an +account of the party who had left it, and one or two silver and +copper English coins. This monument may be seen at several miles' +distance from the sea or land side; and, as great pains were taken +by Mr. Fisher in constructing it, it may probably last for a long +period of years. + +Having now satisfactorily determined the extent of Melville Island +to the northward upon this meridian, which corresponds very nearly +with that of Winter Harbour, and finished all the requisite +observations, I proposed pursuing our journey towards the Blue +Hills, which were still in sight at the distance of several +leagues to the westward; and, having advanced to the southwest as +long as circumstances should appear to make it interesting or +practicable, to return by a circuitous route to the ships. We +travelled in a W.1/2S. direction, in order to keep on a ridge along +the coast, which afforded the only tolerable walking, the snow +being very deep on the lower parts of the land. We halted at half +past seven A.M., on a fine sandy ground, which gave us the +softest, as well as the driest bed which we had yet experienced on +our journey, and which was situated close to a little hillock of +earth and moss, so full of the burrows of hares as to resemble a +warren. We tried to smoke them out by burning port-fire, but none +appeared; and it is remarkable, that though we constantly met with +the dung of these animals, especially in this place, where it +occurred very abundantly, we never saw one of them during the +journey. As soon as we had halted, we found that Mr. Reid's +knapsack had dropped off the cart; he had therefore to go back to +look for it, and did not return till eleven o'clock, being so much +affected by snow-blindness as to be scarcely able to see his way +to the tents. This circumstance was, sufficient to show the +advantage, and even the necessity, of travelling entirely by night +under these circumstances, the intense glare of light from the +snow during the day inevitably producing this painful irritation +in the eyes. + +At a quarter past five P.M. we resumed our journey to the +southwest, and soon after crossed a snowy plain a mile and a +quarter in breadth, extending to the sea to the north, and as far +as the eye could reach to the south. Having travelled S.W.b.W. +seven miles, we halted, at half an hour before midnight, at the +distance of three or four miles from the sea, the weather being +very clear and fine, with a moderate breeze from the S.S.W. + +Having rested after our dinner till half past two A.M., we set out +again to the southwest, making, however, a very crooked course on +account of the irregularity of the ground. In the first quarter of +a mile we passed the first running stream which we had seen this +season, and this was but a small one, from six to twelve inches +deep. The ground, as well as the pools of water, was frozen hard +during the last night, but thawed during the day, which made +travelling worse and worse, as the sun acquired power. We passed a +few horns of deer, killed three ptarmigans, and saw a pair of +ducks. The plumage of the cock grouse was still quite white, +except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were of a fine +glossy black; but in every hen which we had lately killed, a very +perceptible alteration was apparent, even from day to day, and +their plumage had now nearly assumed that speckled colour which, +from its resemblance to that of the ground, is so admirably +adapted to preserve them from being seen at the season of their +incubation. We found it difficult, in general, to get near the +hens, which were very wild; but the male birds were at all times +stupidly tame. + +At half past two A.M. on the 10th we struck the tents, and +proceeded to the S.W., the wind having got round to the S.E., with +continued snow. At the distance of two miles we entered upon a +level plain three miles wide, which, with the exception of a patch +here and there, was entirely covered with snow. The uncovered +parts of this plain were so wet as to be almost impassable for the +cart; and we were now as desirous of keeping on the snow as, at +the beginning of our journey from Winter Harbour, we had been +anxious to avoid it. + +The weather continued hazy, with snow occasionally, but our +clothes dried in the sun towards noon; soon after which, however, +the snow became more thick and constant, so that we could scarcely +see a hundred yards around the tents. We waited for some time in +hope of the weather clearing, and then, at a quarter past five, +continued our journey; as we were under the necessity, however, of +directing our course entirely by compass, which is here a very +uncertain and deceitful guide, we made but a slow and tedious +progress. The wind freshened up to a gale from the S.E. soon after +we had set out, which made it impossible for us any longer to +pursue our journey, and we began to look out for a spot on which +the tents could be pitched, so as to afford us a dry flooring, if +not shelter, during the gale. Having crossed three ravines within +a mile and a quarter, we at length came to a very deep one, which +was nearly perpendicular on each side, with the snow overhanging +in some parts, so as to make it dangerous to go near the edge of +the bank. We were at length fortunate in finding a narrow, sloping +ridge of snow, leading down to the bottom of the ravine; and +having descended this with some difficulty, we found such good +shelter as to determine me to halt here for the night, which now +became more and more inclement. + +The wind gradually veered to the N.N.W. in the morning, and the +weather having cleared up about half past four, we struck the +tents and set off to the southward. The south bank of the ravine +being nearly as steep, and much higher than the other, it was with +considerable labour and difficulty that we were able to get the +cart up it, in which, however, we succeeded by six o'clock, when +we found that we were travelling on much higher ground than +before, overlooking that which we had left the preceding evening. +Having proceeded four miles over a level country, with much snow +upon it, we suddenly and unexpectedly came in sight of the sea or +a lake, at the distance of two or three miles before us, just +appearing between two high and steep hills, which terminated a +deep and broad ravine. We hastened forward to the point of the +nearest hill, from whence the prospect was extremely grand and +picturesque. We were looking down nearly perpendicular from a +height of eight or nine hundred feet, on an extensive plain of +ice, of which, to the westward, we could perceive no termination +for a distance of five or six leagues, the prospect to the +eastward being obstructed by other hills. A thick mist or vapour +was at times carried rapidly along by the wind over this ice, to +which it was entirely confined, occasionally covering the top of +the island with a dense cloud. The impression made upon our minds +at the time was, that it was a frozen lake on which we were now +looking; but this conjecture, as it afterward appeared, proved +erroneous. The ravine at which we had arrived discharges its +waters into a snug cove two or three miles deep, at the head of +which we now proposed resting, if a place could be found at which +our descent into the ravine could be effected. The sides of the +ravine, which were very steep, were covered with innumerable +blocks, of sandstone of every size and shape, over which alone any +road could be found to the cove below. It was necessary, +therefore, to make the attempt, but it was impossible for the best +built carriage to travel long on such a road; and when we had half +descended the bank, which led into the ravine on its north side, +the axle-tree broke short in the middle. The baggage was therefore +taken off and carried down to the bottom, where the tents were +pitched at eleven A.M., the wheels being left where the cart broke +down, as sound as at first. + +The latitude observed here was 75 deg. 12' 50", the longitude, by +chronometer, 111 deg. 50' 05", and the variation of the magnetic +needle 125 deg. 12' 22" easterly. The wind being fresh from the +W.N.W., and the weather being cold and raw, we built a wall to the +windward of the tents, as a substitute for the usual shelter +afforded by the cart; after supper, the people, being a good deal +fatigued, were allowed to rest till near midnight, and then +employed in arranging the baggage so as to carry it on our +shoulders for the rest of the journey. The wood which composed the +light framework of the cart being now disposable as fuel, we were +glad to make use of it in cooking a few ptarmigan, which afforded +us another sumptuous meal. It is not perhaps, easy for those who +have never experienced it, to imagine how great a luxury anything +warm in this way becomes, after living entirely upon cold +provisions for some time in this rigid climate. This change was +occasionally the more pleasant to us, from the circumstance of the +preserved meats, on which we principally lived, being generally at +this time hard frozen when taken out of the canisters. + +Having finished our arrangements with respect to the baggage, +which made it necessary that each of the men should carry between +sixty and seventy pounds, and the officers from forty to fifty, we +struck the tents at half past two on the morning of the 12th, and +proceeded along the eastern shore of the cove, towards a point +which forms the entrance on that side. + +We arrived at the point at five o'clock, and as we could now +perceive that the lake or gulf extended a considerable distance to +the eastward as well as to the westward, and that it would require +a long time to go round in the former direction, I determined to +cross it on the ice; and as the distance to the opposite shore +seemed too great for one journey, the snow being soft upon the +ice, first to visit the island, and, having rested there, to +proceed to the southward. Having walked five miles in a S.S.W. +direction, we landed at seven A.M., near the southeast part of the +island. The wind was fresh from the westward, and the tents were +pitched near the beach, under the lee of the high part of the +island. + +We rested till six P.M., and then set off across the ice for a +point to the E.S.E. The snow had now become so soft after the heat +of the day, that, loaded as we were, we often sunk nearly up to +the knees, which made travelling very laborious, and we were, +therefore, not sorry to get on shore by half past eight, having +walked, by our account, three miles and a half. + +The spot on which we encamped appeared so favourable for obtaining +specimens of the different animals which frequent this island, +that I determined to remain here one day for the purpose of +sporting and examining its natural productions. + +The sportsmen went out early in the morning, and soon after met +with a musk-ox feeding on a spot of luxuriant pasture-ground, +covered with the dung of these animals as well as of deer. They +fired at him from a considerable distance without wounding him, +and he set off at a very quick pace over the hills. The musk-ox +has the appearance of a very ill-proportioned little animal, its +hair being so long as to make its feet appear only two or three +inches in length; they seem, indeed, to be treading upon it at +every step, and the individual in question actually did so in some +instances, as the hair was found in several of the foot-tracks. +When disturbed and hunted, they frequently tore up the ground with +their horns, and turned round occasionally to look at their +pursuers, but they never attempted to attack any of them. Our +gentlemen also met with a herd of twelve deer, three only of which +had horns, and they were much the largest of the herd, and +constantly drove the others away when they attempted to stop. The +birds seen by our people were many brent-geese and ptarmigans, +several golden plovers, one or two "boatswains," and abundance of +snow-buntings. One or two mice were caught; like several others we +had seen, these were turning brown about the belly and head, and +the back was of a dark gray colour. In every part of the island +over which we travelled, the holes and tracks of these little +animals were occasionally seen; one of them, which Sergeant Martin +ran after, finding no hole near and that he could not escape, set +himself against a stone, as if endeavouring to defend himself, and +bit the sergeant's finger when he took hold of him. + +On a point of land at the distance of three quarters of a mile to +the W.b.S. of the tents, and within a hundred yards of the sea, +the remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered; they consisted +of rude circles, about six feet in diameter, constructed +irregularly of stones of all sizes and shapes, and raised to the +height of two feet from the ground: they were paved with large +slabs of white schistose sandstone, which is here abundant; the +moss had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the growth of +three or four years. In each of the huts, on one side, was a small +separate compartment forming a recess, projecting outward, which +had probably been their store-room; and at a few feet from one of +the huts was a smaller circle of stones, which had composed the +fireplace, the mark of fire being still perceptible upon them. + +The day was fine and clear, with a moderate wind from the westward +till four P.M., when it died away, and was shortly after succeeded +by a breeze from the southward, with a fall of snow. We now +travelled due south, with the intention of getting sight of the +Table Hills, and returning by that route to the ships, as there +appeared to be nothing more within our reach of sufficient +interest to detain us any longer from them. At eight P.M., finding +that the people's clothes were becoming wet through by the sleet +which fell, we halted and pitched the tents. + +Early on the morning of the 14th the wind veered to the westward, +and the weather became gradually more clear; we therefore continued +our journey to the southward, and came in sight of the Table Hills +bearing S.E. of us, and at eight A.M. pitched the tents on some dry +ground on the bank of a ravine. We moved on towards the Table Hills +at five P.M., and crossed several ravines without much water in +them, running generally to the northeastward. We halted between the +Table Hills at ten o'clock, having travelled eight miles over very +swampy ground, and with the snow up to our knees in some of the +hollows. + +As soon as the observations were completed, we set off for Winter +Harbour, and having passed over much rich and wet ground, +abounding with sorrel, which now began to put forth its leaves +with more vigour, arrived on board at seven P.M., having been met, +and welcomed most heartily, by almost every officer and man +belonging to the ships; and it was no small satisfaction to me to +hear it remarked, that the whole of our travelling party appeared +in more robust health than when we left them. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual +Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the +Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the +Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of +July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower +Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the +Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in +Winter Harbour. + + +I had the happiness to find, on my return, that the officers and +men in both ships continued to enjoy the same good health as +before, with the exception of Scott, who was still the only man in +the Hecla's sick-list, and whose complaint seemed such as to +baffle every attempt that had been made to produce an amendment. A +constant disposition to fainting and a languid sort of despondency +had been, for some time past, the only symptoms which had induced +Mr. Edwards to continue the antiscorbutic treatment; and this it +was sometimes absolutely necessary to discontinue for a day or two +together, on account of the weak state of his bowels. During my +absence he had been much worse than before, notwithstanding the +greatest care and attention paid to him; but he was now once more +better. He had lived almost entirely on the ptarmigan and ducks, +of which a sufficient quantity had been procured to serve the sick +and convalescent in both ships abundantly, and none had at this +time been issued to any officer or man in the expedition. + +The equipment of the ships had gone on satisfactorily during my +absence, the Griper being nearly ready for sea, the Hecla not +quite so forward, on account of the heavy work with the ballast, +of which sixty-five tons had been brought on board, to supply the +deficiency of weight in her holds. The survey of the provisions, +fuel, and other stores was completed, and the quantity and +condition of them, with the exception of the lemon-juice and +vinegar before mentioned, were found to be satisfactory. With +respect to vermin, I may here mention, that not a mouse, or rat, +or maggot of any kind ever appeared on board, to my knowledge, +during this voyage. + +A very perceptible change had taken place in the ice of the +harbour on its upper surface, it being covered with innumerable +pools of water, chiefly brackish, except close in-shore, where the +tides had lifted the ice considerably above the level of the sea. + +Having observed that the sorrel was now so far advanced in foliage +as to be easily gathered in sufficient quantity for eating, I gave +orders that two afternoons in each week should be occupied by all +hands in collecting the leaves of this plant; each man being +required to bring in, for the present, one ounce, to be served in +lieu of lemon-juice, pickles, and dried herbs, which had been +hitherto issued. The growth of the sorrel was from this time so +quick, and the quantity of it so great on every part of the ground +about the harbour, that we shortly after sent the men out every +afternoon for an hour or two; in which time, besides the advantage +of a healthy walk, they could, without difficulty, pick nearly a +pound each of this valuable antiscorbutic, of which they were all +extremely fond. Of the good effects produced upon our health by +the unlimited use of fresh vegetable substances, thus bountifully +supplied by the hand of Nature, even where least to be expected, +little doubt can be entertained, as it is well known to be a +never-failing specific for scorbutic affections, to which all +persons deprived of it for a length of time are probably more or +less predisposed. + +By the 20th of June, the land in the immediate neighbourhood of +the ships, and especially in low and sheltered situations, was +much covered with the handsome purple flower of the _saxifraga +oppositifolia_, which was at this time in great perfection, and +gave something like cheerfulness and animation to a scene hitherto +indescribably dreary in its appearance. + +The suddenness with which the changes take place during the short +season which may be called summer in this climate, must appear +very striking when it is remembered that, for a part of the first +week in June, we were under the necessity of thawing artificially +the snow which we made use of for water during the early part of +our journey to the northward; that, during the second week, the +ground was in most parts so wet and swampy that we could with +difficulty travel; and that, had we not returned before the end of +the third week, we should probably have been prevented doing so +for some time, by the impossibility of crossing the ravines +without great danger of being carried away by the torrents, an +accident that happened to our hunting parties on one or two +occasions in endeavouring to return with their game to the ships. + +On the 22d, at four P.M., a thermometer, in the shade on board the +Hecla, stood at 51 deg., being the highest temperature we had yet +registered this season. + +On the 24th we had frequent showers of snow, which occur in this +climate more or less at all times of the year; at this season, +however, when the earth is warm, it seldom or never lies on the +ground for a whole day together. + +Lieutenant Beechey, on his return from a hunting excursion at +midnight on the 26th, reported that the ice along shore in that +direction appeared in a more forward state of dissolution than +near Winter Harbour, there being almost water enough in some +places to allow a boat to pass, with several large cracks in the +ice extending from the land some distance to seaward. The deep had +now become much more wild near the tents, and it was therefore +necessary to shift the ground a little. Lieutenant Beechey +succeeded in killing one of these animals, by lying down quietly, +and imitating the voice of a fawn, when the deer immediately came +up to him within gunshot. The horns of the deer killed at this +season, as Mr. Fisher remarks, were "covered with a soft skin +having a downy pile or hair upon it; the horns themselves were +soft, and at the tips flexible and easily broken." The foxes, of +which they saw several, "had a black spot or patch on each side of +the hind-quarters or hams." + +On the 29th, one of the men, in returning on board from the daily +occupation of gathering sorrel, found in a hole upon the ice a +small fish, which appeared to be of the whiting species; and, on +going to examine the place where it was picked up, Mr. Edwards and +myself found two others exactly similar. As there was as yet no +communication between the sea and the upper surface of the ice +sufficiently large to admit these fish, it became a matter of +question in what manner they had got into the situation in which +we found them. It appeared most likely that they were frozen on +the surface of the water at the beginning of winter, when the +frost first commenced, and perhaps, therefore, had been floating +there dead. We remarked that, whenever any hard substance is laid +upon the ice in small quantities, it soon makes a deep hole for +itself, by the heat it absorbs and radiates, by which the ice +around it is melted. There were at this time upon the ice +innumerable holes of this kind, some forming small, and others +large pools of water; and in every one of these, without +exception, some extraneous substance, such as seaweed, sand, and +not unfrequently a number of small putrid shrimps were found. In +one of these holes the fish alluded to were found. It was curious +to see how directly contrary was the effect produced upon the ice +by a quantity of straw which was put out upon it in the early part +of May, and which, by preventing the access of warmth, had now +become raised above the general surface more than two feet; +affording a strong practical example of the principle on which +straw is made use of in ice-houses, and, what was at that time of +more importance to us, a proof, how much the upper surface of the +ice had been insensibly wasted by dissolution. + +Lieutenant Hoppner returned on the evening of the 29th from his +hunting excursion to the southwest, bringing with him some game, +and, what was to us much more acceptable, the welcome information +that the ice had been observed in motion in the offing on the 22d. +This circumstance was first observed by Messrs. Skene and Fife, +who were of Lieutenant Hoppner's party, and who were awakened by a +loud grinding noise, which, as they had soon the satisfaction to +find, was occasioned by the heavy field-ice setting rapidly to the +eastward, at the distance of five miles from the land, and +apparently at the rate of a mile an hour. The wind was at this +time moderate, but on the preceding day it had blown a fresh +northerly gale. + +For some days past Scott had been gradually growing worse, and on +the evening of the 29th he was so far exhausted that Mr. Edwards +did not expect him to survive through the night. At two A.M. on +the 30th I was informed by that gentleman that Scott was dying; +and, before I could get my clothes on, he had breathed his last, +without any apparent pain. + +On Sunday, the 2d of July, after divine service had been +performed, the body of the deceased was committed to the earth, on +a level piece of ground about a hundred yards from the beach; with +every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and the circumstances +of our situation would permit. The ensigns and pendants were +lowered half-mast during the procession, and the remains of our +unfortunate shipmate were attended to the grave by every officer +and man in both ships. A neat tombstone was afterward placed at +the head of the grave by Mr. Fisher, who carved upon it the name +of the deceased, with the other usual information. + +The dissolution of the ice of the harbour went on so rapidly in +the early part of July, that we were greatly surprised, on the +6th, in finding that, in several of the pools of water on its +upper surface, holes were washed quite through to the sea beneath. +On examining several of these, we found that the average thickness +of the ice in the upper part of the harbour, where the ships were +lying, did not exceed two feet, which was much less than we had +any idea of. Towards the mouth of the harbour, however, where the +water was deeper, no such holes made their appearance for some +days after this. It must here be remarked, that in all cases we +found the ice to be first thawed and broken up in the shoalest +water, in consequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with +which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the sea, +absorbed and radiated the heat of the sun's rays; and as it is in +such situations that water generally freezes the first, this +circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the provision of +nature for maintaining such a balance in the quantity of ice +annually formed and dissolved, as shall prevent any undue or +extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions +of the earth. + +On unhanging the rudders, and hauling them up on the ice for +examination, we found them a good deal shaken and grazed by the +blows they had received during the time the ships were beset at +the entrance of Davis's Strait. We found, also, that the +rudder-cases in both ships had been fitted too small, occasioning +considerable difficulty in getting the rudders down when working, +a circumstance by no means disadvantageous (perhaps, indeed, +rather the contrary) on ordinary service at sea, but which should +be carefully avoided in ships intended for the navigation among +ice, as it is frequently necessary to unship the rudder at a short +notice, in order to preserve it from injury, as our future +experience was soon to teach us. This fault was, however, soon +remedied, and the rudders again hung in readiness for sea. + +On the 14th a boat passed, for the first time, between the ships +and the shore, in consequence of the junction of a number of the +pools and holes in the ice; and on the following day the same kind +of communication was practicable between the ships. It now became +necessary, therefore, to provide against the possibility of the +ships being forced on shore by the total disruption of the ice +between them and the beach, and the pressure of that without, by +letting go a bower-anchor underfoot, which was accordingly done as +soon as there was a hole in the ice under the bows of each +sufficiently large to allow the anchors to pass through. We had +now been quite ready for sea for some days; and a regular and +anxious look-out was kept from the crow's-nest for any alteration +in the state of the ice which might favour our departure from +Winter Harbour, in which it now became more than probable that we +were destined to be detained thus inactively for a part of each +month in the whole year, as we had readied it in the latter part +of September, and were likely to be prevented leaving it till +after the commencement of August. + +From six A.M. till six P.M. on the 17th, the thermometer stood +generally from 55 deg. to 60 deg.; the latter temperature being the +highest which appears in the Hecla's Meteorological Journal during +this summer. It will readily be conceived how pleasant such a +temperature must have been to our feelings after the severe winter +which immediately preceded it. The month of July is, indeed, the +only one which can be called at all comfortable in the climate of +Melville Island. + +On the 20th, there being a strong breeze from the N.N.E., with fog +and rain, all favourable to the dispersion of the ice, that part +of it which was immediately around the Hecla, and from which she +had been artificially detached so long before, at length separated +into pieces and floated away, carrying with it the collection of +ashes and other rubbish which had been accumulating for the last +ten months: so that the ship was now once more fairly riding at +anchor, but with the ice still occupying the whole of the centre +of the harbour, and within a few yards of her bows: the Griper had +been set free in a similar manner a few days before. But it was +only in that part of the harbour where the ships were lying that +the ice had yet separated in this manner at so great a distance +from the shore; a circumstance probably occasioned by the greater +radiation of heat from the ships, and from the materials of +various kinds which we had occasion to deposite upon the ice +during the time of our equipment. + +Lieutenant Liddon accompanied me in a boat down the west shore of +the harbour to the southern point of the entrance, in order to +sound along the edge of the ice, where we found from seven to +fifteen feet water; the ice about the entrance appeared still very +solid and compact, and not a single hole was at this time noticed +through any of the pools upon its surface except one, which was +made by a seal, and which discovered the thickness of the ice to +be there between two and three feet. + +There was a fresh breeze from the northeastward, with fine clear +weather, on the 22d, which made the Hecla swing round into twenty +feet water astern; and the ice, being now moveable in the harbour, +came home towards the shore with this wind, but not so much as to +put any considerable strain on the cable of either ship; and the +holding-ground being excellent, there was nothing to apprehend for +their security. + +A fresh gale, which blew from the northward on the morning of the +23d, caused a great alteration in the appearance of the ice near +the ships, but none whatever in that in the offing or at the mouth +of the harbour, except that the shores were there more encumbered +than before, owing to the quantity of pieces which were separated +and driven down from the northward, so that our small boat could +not succeed in getting along the shore. + +On the 24th the sails were bent, in readiness for starting at a +moment's notice, though it must be confessed that the motive for +doing so was to make some show of moving rather than any +expectation which I dared to entertain of soon escaping from our +long and tedious confinement; for it was impossible to conceal +from the men the painful fact that, in eight or nine weeks from +this period, the navigable season must unavoidably come to a +conclusion. + +I went away in a boat early on the morning of the 25th, in order +to sound the harbour in those parts where the ice would admit the +boat, with a view to take advantage of the first favourable change +which might present itself. The wind having come round to the +southward in the afternoon, caused the separation of a large +portion of ice on the northern side of that which now occupied the +harbour, and the detached pieces drifting down towards us, +rendered it necessary to be on our guard, lest the ships should be +forced from their anchorage. On this account, as well as from an +anxious and impatient desire to make a move, however trifling, +from a spot in which we had now unwillingly, but unavoidably, +passed nearly ten months, and of which we had long been heartily +tired, I directed lines to be run out for the purpose of warping +the ships along the ice in the centre of the harbour, and at half +past two P.M. the anchors were weighed. As soon as a strain was +put upon the lines, however, we found that the ice to which they +were attached came home upon us, instead of the ships being drawn +out to the southward; and we were therefore obliged to have +recourse to the kedge-anchors, which we could scarcely find room +to drop on account of the closeness of the ice. Having warped a +little way out from the shore, into five fathoms and a half, it +was found impossible to proceed any farther without a change of +wind, and the anchors were therefore dropped till such a change +should take place. In the course of the evening all the loose ice +drifted past us to the northward, loading that shore of the +harbour with innumerable fragments of it, and leaving a +considerable space of clear water along shore to the southward. + +On the morning of the 26th it was nearly calm, with continued rain +and thick weather; and there being now a space of clear water for +nearly three quarters of a mile to the southward of us, we took +advantage of a breeze which sprung up from the northward to weigh, +at nine A.M., and run down as far as the ice would permit, and +then dropped our anchors in the best berths we could select, close +to the edge of it, with the intention of advancing step by step, +as it continued to separate by piecemeal. The ice across the +entrance of the harbour as far as this spot, and the whole of that +in the offing, of which we had here a commanding view from the +Hecla's crow's-nest, was still quite continuous and unbroken, with +the same appearance of solidity as it had during the middle of +winter, except that the pools of water were numerous upon its +surface. + +The wind being from the S.S.W. during the night of the 30th, +served to close the lane of water which had appeared in the offing +the preceding day, which we considered a favourable circumstance, +as showing that the external mass of ice was in motion. In the +course of the day, the wind shifting to the W.N.W., we once more +discovered a small opening between the old and young floes, and at +eleven P.M., the whole body of the ice in the harbour was +perceived to be moving slowly out to the southeastward, breaking +away, for the first time, at the points which form the entrance of +the harbour. This sudden and unexpected change rendering it +probable that we should at length be released, I sent to Captain +Sabine, who had been desirous of continuing his observations on +the pendulum to the last moment, to request that he would have the +clocks ready for embarcation at an early hour in the morning. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the +Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to +the Longitude of 113 deg. 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian +hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of +America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and +Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to +penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and +Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound +on our Return to England. + + +The wind still blowing fresh from the northward and westward, the +ice continued to drift out slowly from the harbour, till, at eight +A.M., August 1st, it had left the whole space between the ships +and Cape Hearne completely clear, and at eleven o'clock there +appeared to be water round the hummocks of ice which lie aground +off that point. In the mean time, our boats were employed in +embarking the clocks, tents, and observatory, while I sounded the +entrance of the harbour in order to complete the survey, which no +opportunity had offered of doing before this time. At one P.M., +having got everything on board, and the ice appearing to be still +leaving the shore, we weighed, and ran out of Winter Harbour, in +which we had actually, as had been predicted, passed ten whole +months, and a part of the two remaining ones, September and +August. + +In running along shore towards Cape Hearne, generally at the +distance of half a mile from the land, we had from ten to sixteen +fathoms' water, and rounded the hummocks off the point in six and +a half fathoms by three P.M. As we opened the point, it was +pleasing to see that the coast to the westward of it was more +clear of ice (excepting the loose pieces which lay scattered about +in every direction, but which would not very materially have +impeded the navigation with a fair wind) than it had been when we +first arrived off it, a month later in the foregoing year; the +main ice having been blown off by the late westerly and +northwesterly winds to the distance of four or five miles from the +shore, which, from all we have seen on this part of the coast, +appears to be its utmost limit. The navigable channel, with a +beating wind between the ice and the land, was here from one to +two, or two miles and a half in width; and this seemed, from the +masthead, to continue as far as the eye could reach along shore to +the westward. + +We found the wind much more westerly after we rounded the point, +which made our progress slow and tedious; the more so, as we had +every minute to luff for one piece of ice and to bear up for +another, by which much ground was unavoidably lost. + +After a very few tacks, we had the mortification to perceive +that the Griper sailed and worked much worse than before, +notwithstanding every endeavour which Lieutenant Liddon had been +anxiously making, during her re-equipment, to improve those +qualities in which she had been found deficient. She missed stays +several times in the course of the evening, with smooth water +and a fine working breeze, and by midnight the Hecla had gained +eight miles to windward of her, which obliged me to heave to, +notwithstanding the increased width of the navigable channel, the +weather having become hazy, so as to endanger our parting company. + +Soon after noon on the 2d, a breeze sprung up from the S.S.W., +which, being rather upon the shore, made it likely that the ice +would soon begin to close it; we therefore began to look out for a +situation where the ships might be secured in-shore, behind some +of the heavy grounded ice which had so often before afforded us +shelter under similar circumstances. At one o'clock we perceived +that a heavy floe had already closed completely in with the land, +at a point a little to the westward of us, preventing all hope of +farther progress for the present in that direction. A boat was +therefore sent to examine the ice in-shore, and a favourable place +having been found for our purpose, the ships were hauled in and +secured there, the Griper's bow resting on the beach, in order to +allow the Hecla to lie in security without her. This place was so +completely sheltered from the access of the main body of the ice, +that I began to think seriously of taking advantage of this +situation to remove the Griper's crew on board the Hecla, in order +to prosecute the voyage in the latter vessel singly, and had +consulted the officers upon the subject. The circumstances, +however, which subsequently occurred rendering such a measure +inexpedient, because no longer necessary to the accomplishment of +the object in view, by which alone it could be justified, I was +induced to give it up, adopting the best means in our power to +remedy the evil in question. + +Shortly after our anchoring the Griper's people heard the growling +of a bear among the ice near them, but the animal did not appear; +and this was the only instance of our meeting with a bear during +our stay at Melville Island, except that which followed one of our +men to the ships soon after our arrival in Winter Harbour. Both +crews were sent on shore to pick sorrel, which was here not less +abundant than at our old quarters, but it was now almost too old +to be palatable, having nearly lost its acidity and juice. + +At one A.M. on the 4th, the loose ice was observed to be drifting +in upon us, the wind having veered to the eastward of north; and +soon after a floe, of not less than five miles in length and a +mile and a half across, was found to be approaching the shore at a +quick rate. The ships were immediately hauled as near the shore as +possible, and preparation made for unshipping the rudders, if +necessary. The floe was brought up, however, by the masses of ice +aground outside of us, with which it successively came in contact, +and the ships remained in perfect security; the floe, as usual +after the first violence is over, moved off again to a little +distance from the shore. + +At noon the heavy floe at the point near us began to quit the +land, and at half past one P.M., there being a narrow passage +between them, the breadth of which the breeze was constantly +increasing, we cast off and stretched to the westward. The channel +which opened to us as we proceeded varied in its general breadth +from one to two miles; in some places it was not more than half a +mile. The wind was variable and squally, but we made great +progress, along the land to the S.W.b.W., and the Griper, by +keeping up tolerably with the Hecla, in some measure redeemed her +character with us. Having arrived off Cape Providence at eleven +P.M., the wind became light and baffling, so that we had just got +far enough to see that there was a free and open channel beyond +the westernmost point visible of Melville Island, when our +progress was almost entirely stopped for want of a breeze to +enable us to take advantage of it. The anxiety which such a +detention occasions in a sea where, without any apparent cause, +the ice frequently closes the shore in the most sudden manner, can +perhaps only be conceived by those who have experienced it. We +remarked, in sailing near the ice this evening, while the wind was +blowing a fresh breeze off the land, and therefore directly +towards the ice, that it remained constantly calm within three or +four hundred yards of the latter; this effect I do not remember to +have observed before upon the windward side of any collection of +ice, though it invariably happens, in a remarkable degree, to +leeward of it. I may here mention, as a striking proof of the +accuracy with which astronomical bearings of objects may be taken +for marine surveys, that the relative bearing of Capes Providence +and Hay, as obtained this evening when the two headlands were +opening, differed only one minute from that entered in the +surveying-book, and found in the same manner the preceding year. + +At one P.M. on the 5th, the weather continuing quite calm, and +being desirous of examining the ice in-shore, that we might be +ready for the floes closing upon us, I left the ship, accompanied +by Captain Sabine and Mr. Edwards, and landed near one of the +numerous deep and broad ravines with which the whole of this part +of the island is indented. We were ascending the hill, which was +found by trigonometrical measurement to be eight hundred and +forty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and on which we found +no mineral production but sandstone and clay iron-stone, when a +breeze sprung up from the eastward, bringing up the Griper, which +had been left several miles astern. We only stopped, therefore, to +obtain observations for the longitude and the variation of the +magnetic needle; the former of which was 112 deg. 53' 32", and the +latter 110 deg. 56' 11" easterly, and then immediately returned on +board and made all sail to the westward. After running for two +hours without obstruction, we were once more mortified in +perceiving that the ice, in very extensive and unusually heavy +floes, closed in with the land a little to the westward of Cape +Hay, and our channel of clear water between the ice and the land +gradually diminished in breadth, till at length it became +necessary to take in the studding sails, and to haul to the wind +to look about us. I immediately left the ship, and went in a boat +to examine the grounded ice off a small point of land, such as +always occurs on this coast at the outlet of each ravine. I found +that this point offered the only possible shelter which could be +obtained in case of the ice coming in; and I therefore determined +to take the Hecla in-shore immediately, and to pick out the best +berth which circumstances would admit. As I was returning on board +with this intention, I found that the ice was already rapidly +approaching the shore; no time was to be lost, therefore, in +getting the Hecla to her intended station, which was effected by +half past eight P.M., being in nine to seven fathoms water, at the +distance of twenty yards from the beach, which was lined all round +the point with very heavy masses of ice that had been forced by +some tremendous pressure into the ground. Our situation was a +dangerous one, having no shelter from ice coming from the +westward, the whole of which, being distant from us less than half +a mile, was composed of floes infinitely more heavy than any we +had elsewhere met with during the voyage. The Griper was three or +four miles astern of us at the time when the ice began to close, +and I therefore directed Lieutenant Liddon, by signal, to secure +his ship in the best manner he could, without attempting to join +the Hecla; he accordingly made her fast at eleven P.M., near a +point like that at which we were lying, and two or three miles to +the eastward. + +On the whole of this steep coast, wherever we approached the +shore, we found a thick stratum of blue and solid ice, firmly +imbedded in the beach, at the depth of from six to ten feet under +the surface of the water. This ice has probably been the lower +part of heavy masses forced aground by the pressure of the floes +from without, and still adhering to the viscous mud of which the +beach is composed, after the upper part has, in course of time, +dissolved. From the tops of the hills in this part of Melville +Island a continuous line of this submarine ice could be distinctly +traced for miles along the coast. + +In running along the shore this evening we had noticed near the +sea what at a distance had every appearance of a high wall +artificially built, which was the resort of numerous birds. +Captain Sabine being desirous to examine it, as well as to procure +some specimens of the birds, set out, as soon as we anchored, for +that purpose. The wall proved to be composed of sandstone in +horizontal strata, from twenty to thirty feet in height, which had +been left standing, so as to exhibit its present artificial +appearance, by the decomposition of the rock and earth about it. +Large flocks of glaucous gulls had chosen this as a secure retreat +from the foxes, and every other enemy but man; and when our people +first went into the ravine in which it stands, they were so fierce +in defence of their young that it was scarcely safe to approach +them till a few shots had been fired. + +On the morning of the 7th a black whale came up close to the +Hecla, being the first we had seen since the 22d of August the +preceding year, about the longitude of 913/4 deg. W.; it therefore +acquired among us the distinctive appellation of _the_ whale. +Since leaving Winter Harbour we had also, on two or three +occasions, seen a solitary seal. The wind continued fresh from the +east and E.N.E. in the morning, and the loose ice came close in +upon us, but the main body remained stationary at the distance of +nearly half a mile. + +In the afternoon a man from each mess was sent on shore to pick +sorrel, which was here remarkably fine and large, as well as more +acid than any we had lately met with. The shelter from the +northerly winds afforded by the high land on this part of the +coast, together with its southern aspect, renders the vegetation +here immediately next the sea much more luxuriant than in most +parts of Melville Island which we visited, and a considerable +addition was made to our collection of plants. + +The easterly breeze died away in the course of the day, and at +three P.M. was succeeded by a light air from the opposite quarter; +and as this freshened up a little, the loose ice began to drift +into our bight, and that on the eastern side of the point to drive +off. It became expedient, therefore, immediately to shift the ship +round the point, where she was made fast in four fathoms abaft and +seventeen feet forward, close alongside the usual ledge of +submarine ice, which touched her about seven feet under water, and +which, having few of the heavy masses aground upon it, would +probably have allowed her to be pushed over it had a heavy +pressure occurred from without. It was the more necessary to moor +the ship in some such situation, as we found from six to seven +fathoms water by dropping the hand-lead down close to her bow and +quarter on the outer side. + +Several heavy pieces of floes drove close past us, not less than +ten or fifteen feet in thickness, but they were fortunately +stopped by a point of land without coming in upon us. At eleven +o'clock, however, a mass of this kind, being about half an acre in +extent, drove in, and gave the ship a considerable "nip" between +it and the land ice, and then grazed past her to the westward. I +now directed the rudder to be unhung, and the ship to be swung +with her head to the eastward, so that the bow, being the +strongest part, might receive the first and heaviest pressure. + +The ice did not disturb us again till five A.M. on the 8th, when +another floe-piece came in and gave the ship a heavy rub, and then +went past, after which it continued slack about us for several +hours. Everything was so quiet at nine o'clock as to induce me to +venture up the hill abreast of us, in order to have a view of the +newly-discovered land to the southwest, which, indeed, I had seen +indistinctly and much refracted from the Hecla's deck in the +morning. This land, which extends beyond the 117th degree of west +longitude, and is the most western yet discovered in the Polar Sea +to the northward of the American Continent, was honoured with the +name of BANKS'S LAND, out of respect to the late venerable and +worthy president of the Royal Society. + +On the morning of the 9th a musk-ox came down to graze on the +beach near the ships. A party was despatched in pursuit, and, +having hemmed him in under the hill, which was too steep for him +to ascend, succeeded in killing him. When first brought on board, +the inside of this animal, which was a male, smelled very strong +of musk, of which the whole of the meat also tasted more or less, +and especially the heart. It furnished us with four hundred and +twenty-one pounds of beef, which was served to the crews as usual, +in lieu of their salt provisions, and was very much relished by +us, notwithstanding the peculiarity of its flavour.[*] The meat +was remarkably fat, and, as it hung up in quarters, looked as fine +as any beef in an English market. A small seal, killed by the +Griper's people, was also eaten by them; and it was generally +allowed to be very tender and palatable, though not very sightly +in its appearance, being of a disagreeable red colour. + +[Footnote: Some pieces of this meat which we brought to England +were found to have acquired a much more disagreeable flavour than +when first killed, though they had not undergone putrefaction in +the slightest degree.] + +At ten P.M. the whole body of ice, which was then a quarter of a +mile from us, was found to be drifting in upon the land, and the +ship was warped back a little way to the westward, towards that +part of the shore which was most favourable for allowing her to be +forced up on the beach. At eleven o'clock, the piece of a floe +which came near us in the afternoon, and which had since drifted +back a few hundred yards to the eastward, received the pressure of +the whole body of ice as it came in. It split across in various +directions with a considerable crash, and presently after we saw a +part, several hundred tons in weight, raised slowly and +majestically, as if by the application of a screw, and deposited +on another part of the floe from which it had broken, presenting +towards us the surface that had split, which was of a fine blue +colour, and very solid and transparent. The violence with which +the ice was coming in being thus broken, it remained quiet during +the night, which was calm, with a heavy fall of snow. + +The mass of ice which had been lifted up the preceding day being +drifted close to us on the morning of the 10th, I sent Lieutenant +Beechey to measure its thickness, which proved to be forty-two +feet; and as it was a piece of a regular floe, this measurement +may serve to give some idea of the general thickness of the ice in +this neighbourhood. + +I began to consider whether it would not be advisable, whenever +the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few miles of the +westing we had already made, and to run along the margin of the +floes, in order to endeavour to find an opening leading to the +southward, by taking advantage of which we might be enabled to +prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was +the more inclined to make this attempt, from its having long +become evident to us that the navigation of this part of the Polar +Sea is only to be performed by watching the occasional openings +between the ice and the shore; and that, therefore, a continuity +of land is essential, if not absolutely necessary, for this +purpose. Such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail +us, must necessarily be furnished by the northern coast of +America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found; and, as a large +portion of our short season had already been occupied in fruitless +attempts to penetrate farther to the westward in our present +parallel, under circumstances of more than ordinary risk to the +ships, I determined, whenever the ice should open sufficiently, to +put into execution the plan I had proposed. + +At seven P.M. we shipped the rudder and crossed the top-gallant +yards in readiness for moving; and then I ascended the hill and +walked a mile to the westward, along the brow of it, that not a +moment might be lost after the ice to the westward should give us +the slightest hope of making any progress by getting under way. +Although the holes had certainly increased in size and extent, +there was still not sufficient room even for one of our boats to +work to windward; and the impossibility of the ships' doing so was +rendered more apparent, on account of the current which, as I have +before had occasion to remark, is always produced in these seas +soon after the springing up of a breeze, and which was now running +to the eastward at the rate of at least one mile per hour. It was +evident that any attempt to get the ships to the westward must, +under circumstances so unfavourable, be attended with the certain +consequence of their being drifted the contrary way; and nothing +could therefore be done but still to watch, which we did most +anxiously, every alteration in the state of the ice. The wind, +however, decreasing as the night came on, served to diminish the +hopes with which we had flattered ourselves of being speedily +extricated from our present confined and dangerous situation. + +The weather was foggy for some hours in the morning of the 11th, +but cleared up in the afternoon as the sun acquired power. The +wind increased to a fresh gale from the eastward at nine P.M., +being the second time that it had done so while we had been lying +at this station; a circumstance which we were the more inclined to +notice, as the easterly winds had hitherto been more faint and +less frequent than those from the westward. In this respect, +therefore, we considered ourselves unfortunate, as experience had +already shown us that none but a westerly wind ever produced upon +this coast, or, indeed, on the southern coast of any of the North +Georgian Islands, the desired effect of clearing the shores of +ice. + +The gale continued strong during the night, and the ice quite +stationary. Not a pool of clear water could be seen in any +direction, except just under the lee of our point, where there was +a space large enough to contain half a dozen sail of ships, till +about noon, when the whole closed in upon us without any apparent +cause, except that the wind blew in irregular puffs about that +time, and at one P.M. it was alongside. The ship was placed in the +most advantageous manner for taking the beach, or, rather, the +shelf of submarine ice, and the rudder again unshipped and hung +across the stem. The ice which came in contact with the ship's +side consisted of very heavy loose pieces, drawing twelve or +fourteen feet water, which, however, we considered as good +"fenders," compared with the enormous fields which covered the sea +just without them. Everything remained quiet for the rest of the +day, without producing any pressure of consequence; the wind came +round to N.b.E. at night, but without moving the ice off the land. + +Early in the morning of the 13th I received by Mr. Griffiths a +message from Lieutenant Liddon, acquainting me that, at eleven +o'clock on the preceding night, the ice had been setting slowly to +the westward, and had, at the same time, closed in upon the land +where the Griper was lying, by which means she was forced against +the submarine ice, and her stern lifted two feet out of the water. +This pressure, Lieutenant Liddon remarked, had given her a twist, +which made her crack a good deal, but apparently without suffering +any material injury in her hull, though the ice was still pressing +upon her when Mr. Griffiths came away. She had at first heeled +inward, but, on being lifted higher, fell over towards the deep +water. Under these circumstances Lieutenant Liddon had very +properly landed all the journals and other documents of +importance, and made every arrangement in his power for saving the +provisions and stores in case of shipwreck, which he had now every +reason to anticipate. Convinced as I was that no human art or +power could, in our present situation, prevent such a catastrophe +whenever the pressure of the ice became sufficient, I was more +than ever satisfied with the determination to which I had +previously come, of keeping the ships apart during the continuance +of these untoward circumstances, in order to increase the chance +of saving one of them from accidents of this nature. In the mean +time the ice remained so close about the Hecla, that the slightest +pressure producing in it a motion towards the shore must have +placed us in a situation similar to that of the Griper; and our +attention was therefore diverted to the more important object of +providing, by every means in our power, for the security of the +larger ship, as being the principal depot of provisions and other +resources. + +At five P.M. Lieutenant Liddon acquainted me by letter that the +Griper had at length righted, the ice having slackened a little +around her, and that all the damage she appeared to have sustained +was in her rudder, which was badly split, and would require some +hours' labour to repair it whenever the ice should allow him to +get it on shore. + +Soon after midnight the ice pressed closer in upon the Hecla than +before, giving her a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, +but without appearing to strain her in the slightest degree. By +four P.M. the pressure had gradually decreased, and the ship had +only three or four inches heel; in an hour after she had perfectly +righted, and the ice remained quiet for the rest of the day. + +Every moment's additional detention now served to confirm me in +the opinion I had formed as to the expediency of trying, at all +risks, to penetrate to the southward whenever the ice would allow +us to move at all, rather than persevere any longer in the +attempts we had been lately making, with so little success, to +push on directly to the westward. I therefore gave Lieutenant +Liddon an order to run back a certain distance to the eastward +whenever he could do so, without waiting for the Hecla, should +that ship be still detained; and to look out for any opening in +the ice to the southward which might seem likely to favour the +object I had in view, waiting for me to join him should any such +opening occur. + +The breeze died away in the course of the night, just as the ice +was beginning to separate and to drift away from the shore; and, +being succeeded by a wind off the land, which is here very +unusual, Lieutenant Liddon was enabled to sail upon the Griper at +two A.M. on the 15th, in execution of the orders I had given him. +As I soon perceived, however, that she made little or no way, the +wind drawing more to the eastward on that part of the coast, and +as the clear water was increasing along the shore to the westward +much farther than we had yet seen it, I made the signal of recall +to the Griper, with the intention of making another attempt, which +the present favourable appearances seemed to justify, to push +forward without delay in the desired direction. At five A.M., +therefore, as soon as the snow had cleared away sufficiently to +allow the signal to be distinguished, we cast off and ran along +shore, the wind having by this time veered to the E.b.N., and +blowing in strong puffs out of the ravines as we passed them. We +sailed along, generally at the distance of a hundred or a hundred +and fifty yards from the beach, our soundings being from ten to +seventeen fathoms; and, after running a mile and a half in a +N.W.b.W. direction, once more found the ice offering an +impenetrable obstacle to our progress westward, at a small +projecting point of land just beyond us. We therefore hauled the +ship into a berth which we were at this moment fortunate in +finding abreast of us, and where we were enabled to place the +Hecla within a number of heavy masses of grounded ice, such as do +not often occur on this steep coast, which, compared with the +situation we had lately left, appeared a perfect harbour. In the +mean time, the wind had failed our consort when she was a mile and +a half short of this place; and Lieutenant Liddon, after +endeavouring in vain to warp up to us, was obliged, by the ice +suddenly closing upon him, to place her in-shore, in the first +situation he could find, which proved to be in very deep water, as +well as otherwise so insecure as not to admit a hope of saving the +ship should the ice continue to press upon her. + +Mr. Fisher found very good sport in our new station, having +returned in the evening, after a few hours' excursion, with nine +hares; the birds had, of late, almost entirely deserted us, a +flock or two of ptarmigan and snow-buntings, a few glaucous gulls, +a raven, and an owl, being all that had been met with for several +days. + +A fog, which had prevailed during the night, cleared away in the +morning of the 16th, and a very fine day succeeded, with a +moderate breeze from the westward. In order to have a clear and +distinct view of the state of the ice, after twenty-four hours' +wind from that quarter, Captain Sabine, Mr. Edwards, and myself, +walked about two miles to the westward, along the high part of the +land next the sea, from whence it appeared but too evident that no +passage in this direction was yet to be expected. The ice to the +west and southwest was as solid and compact, to all appearance, as +so much land; to which, indeed, the surface of so many fields, +from the kind of hill and dale I have before endeavoured to +describe, bore no imperfect resemblance. I have no doubt that, had +it been our object to circumnavigate Melville Island, or, on the +other hand, had the coast continued its westerly direction instead +of turning to the northward, we should still have contrived to +proceed a little occasionally, as opportunities offered, +notwithstanding the increased obstruction which here presented +itself; but, as neither of these was the case, there seemed little +or nothing to hope for from any farther attempts to prosecute the +main object of the voyage in this place. I determined, therefore, +no longer to delay the execution of my former intentions, and to +make trial, if possible, of a more southern latitude, in which I +might follow up the success that had hitherto attended our +exertions. + +The station at which the ships were now lying, and which is the +westernmost point to which the navigation of the Polar Sea to the +northward of the American Continent has yet been carried, is in +latitude 74 deg. 26' 25", and longitude, by chronometer, 113 deg. 46' +43.5". + +The place where the Hecla was now secured, being the only one of +the kind which could be found, was a little harbour, formed, as +usual, by the grounded ice, some of which was fixed to the bottom +in ten to twelve fathoms. One side of the entrance to this harbour +consisted of masses of floes, very regular in their shape, placed +quite horizontally, and broken off so exactly perpendicular as to +resemble a handsome, well-built wharf. On the opposite side, +however, the masses to which we looked for security were +themselves rather terrific objects, as they leaned over so much +towards the ship as to give the appearance of their being in the +act of falling upon her deck; and as a very trifling concussion +often produces the fall of much heavier masses of ice, when in +appearance very firmly fixed to the ground, I gave orders that no +guns should be fired near the ship during her continuance in this +situation. The Griper was of necessity made fast near the beach in +rather an exposed situation, and her rudder unshipped, in +readiness for the ice coming in; it remained quiet, however, +though quite close, during the day, the weather being calm and +fine. + +It was again nearly calm on the 19th, and the weather was foggy for +some hours in the morning. In the evening, having walked to Cape +Providence to see if there was any possibility of moving the ships, +I found the ice so close that a boat could not have passed beyond +the Cape; but a light air drifting the ice slowly to the eastward +at this time, gave me some hopes of soon being enabled to make our +escape from this tedious as well as vexatious confinement. At a +quarter past eight it was high water by the shore; about this time +the ice ceased driving to the eastward, and shortly after returned +in the opposite direction. + +At half past eleven P.M., some heavy pieces of the grounded ice, +to which our bow-hawser was secured, fell off into the water, +snapping the rope in two without injuring the ship. As, however, +every alteration of this kind must materially change the centre of +gravity of the whole mass, which already appeared in a tottering +state, I thought it prudent to move the Hecla out of her harbour +to the place where the Griper was lying, considering that a ship +might easily be forced on shore by the ice without suffering any +serious damage; but that one of those enormous masses falling upon +her deck must inevitably crush or sink her. + +The "young ice" had increased to the thickness of an inch and a +half on the morning of the 23d, and some snow which had fallen in +the night served to cement the whole more firmly together. On a +breeze springing up from the westward, however, it soon began to +acquire a motion to leeward, and at half an hour before noon had +slackened about the ships sufficiently to allow us to warp them +out, which was accordingly done, and all sail made upon them. The +wind having freshened up from the W.N.W., the ships' heads were +got the right way, and, by great attention to the sails, kept so +till they had got abreast of Cape Providence, after which they +were no longer manageable, the ice being more close than before. I +have before remarked that the loose ice in this neighbourhood was +heavy in proportion to the floes from which it had been broken; +and the impossibility of sailing among such ice, most of which +drew more water than the Hecla, and could not, therefore, be +turned by her weight, was this day rendered very apparent, the +ships having received by far the heaviest shocks which they +experienced during the voyage. They continued, however, to drive +till they were about three miles to the eastward of Cape +Providence, where the low land commences; when, finding that there +was not any appearance of open water to the eastward or southward, +and that we were now incurring the risk of being beset at sea, +without a chance of making any farther progress, we hauled in for +the largest piece of grounded ice we could see upon the beach, +which we reached at six P.M., having performed six miles of the +most difficult navigation I have ever known among ice. The Hecla +was made fast in from eighteen to twenty feet water close to the +beach, and the Griper in four fathoms, about half a mile to the +westward of us. + +The situation in which the ships were now placed, when viewed in +combination with the shortness of the remaining part of the +season, and the period to which our resources of every kind could +be extended, was such as to require a more than ordinary +consideration, in order to determine upon the measures most proper +to be pursued for the advancement of the public service, and the +security of the ships and people committed to my charge. Judging +from the close of the summer of 1819, it was reasonable to +consider the 7th of September as the limit beyond which the +navigation of this part of the Polar Sea could not be performed, +with tolerable safety to the ships or with any hope of farther +success. Impressed, however, with a strong sense of the efforts +which it became us to make in the prosecution of our enterprise, I +was induced to extend this limit to the 14th of September, before +which day, on the preceding year, the winter might fairly be said +to have set in. But even with this extension our prospect was not +very encouraging: the direct distance to Icy Cape was between +eight and nine hundred miles, while that which we had advanced +towards it this season fell short of sixty miles. + +By Mr. Hooper's report of the remains of provisions, it appeared +that, at the present reduced allowance (namely, two thirds of the +established proportion of the navy), they would last until the +30th of November, 1821; and that an immediate reduction, to half +allowance, which must, however, tend materially to impair the +health and vigour of the officers and men, would only extend our +resources to the 30th of April, 1822; it therefore became a matter +of evident and imperious necessity, that the ships should be +cleared from the ice before the close of the season of 1821, so as +to reach some station where supplies might be obtained by the end +of that, or early in the following year. + +By the same report, it appeared that the fuel with which we were +furnished could only be made to extend to a period of two years +and seven months, or to the end of November, 1821; and this only +by resorting to the unhealthy measure of both crews living on +board the Hecla during six of the ensuing winter months. + +The ships might be considered almost as effective as when the +expedition left England; the wear and tear having been trifling, +and the quantity of stores remaining on board being amply +sufficient, in all probability, for a much longer period than the +provisions and fuel. The health of the officers and men continued +also as good, or nearly so, as at the commencement of the voyage. +Considering, however, the serious loss we had sustained in the +lemon-juice, the only effectual antiscorbutic on which we could +depend during at least nine months of the year in these regions, +as well as the effects likely to result from crowding nearly one +hundred persons into the accommodation intended only for +fifty-eight, whereby the difficulty of keeping the inhabited parts +of the ship in a dry and wholesome state would have been so much +increased, there certainly seemed some reason to apprehend that a +second winter would not leave us in possession of the same +excellent health which we now happily enjoyed, while it is +possible that the difficulty and danger of either proceeding or +returning might have been increased. + +A herd of musk-oxen being seen at a little distance from the +ships, a party was despatched in pursuit; and Messrs. Fisher and +Bushnan were fortunate in killing a fine bull, which separated +from the rest of the herd, being too unwieldy to make such good +way as the others. He was, however, by no means caught by our +people in fair chase; for, though these animals run with a +hobbling sort of canter, that makes them appear as if every now +and then about to fall, yet the slowest of them can far outstrip a +man. In this herd were two calves, much whiter than the rest, the +older ones having only the white saddle. In the evening, Sergeant +Martin succeeded in killing another bull; these two animals +afforded a very welcome supply of fresh meat, the first giving us +three hundred and sixty-nine, and the other three hundred and +fifty-two pounds of beef, which was served in the same manner as +before.[*] + +[Footnote: The total quantity of game obtained for the use of the +expedition during our stay upon the shores of Melville Island, +being a period of nearly twelve months, was as follows: 3 musk +oxen, 24 deer, 68 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, 144 ptarmigans: +affording 3766 pounds of meat.] + +It was gratifying to me to find that the officers unanimously +agreed with me in opinion that any farther attempt to penetrate to +the westward in our present parallel would be altogether +fruitless, and attended with a considerable loss of time, which +might be more usefully employed. They also agreed with me in +thinking that the plan which I had adopted, of running back along +the edge of the ice to the eastward, in order to look out for an +opening that might lead us towards the American Continent, was in +every respect the most advisable; and that, in the event of +failing to find any such opening after a reasonable time spent in +search, it would be expedient to return to England rather than +risk the passing another winter in these seas, without the +prospect of attaining any adequate object; namely, that of being +able to start from an advanced station at the commencement of the +following season. + +At three P.M. we were abreast of Cape Hearne; and, as we opened +the bay of the Hecla and Griper, the wind, as usual on this part +of the coast, came directly out from the northward; but, as soon +as we had stretched over to Bounty Cape, of which we were abreast +at eight P.M., it drew once more along the land from the westward. +The distance between the ice and the land increased as we +proceeded, and at midnight the channel appeared to be four or five +miles wide, as far as the darkness of the night would allow of our +judging; for we could at this period scarcely see to read in the +cabin at ten o'clock. The snow which fell during the day was +observed, for the first time, to remain upon the land without +dissolving; thus affording a proof of the temperature of the +earth's surface having again fallen below that of freezing, and +giving notice of the near approach of another long and dreary +winter. + +At seven P.M., a fog coming on, we hauled up close to the edge of +the ice, both as a guide to us in sailing during the continuance +of the thick weather, and to avoid passing any opening that might +occur in it to the southward. We were, in the course of the +evening, within four or five miles of the same spot where we had +been on the same day and at the same hour the preceding year; and, +by a coincidence perhaps still more remarkable, we were here once +more reduced to the same necessity as before, of steering the +ships by one another for an hour or two; the Griper keeping the +Hecla ahead, and our quartermaster being directed to keep the +Griper right astern, for want of some better mode of knowing in +what direction we were running. The fog froze hard as it fell upon +the rigging, making it difficult to handle the ropes in working +the ship, and the night was rather dark for three or four hours. + +At a quarter past three on the morning of the 30th, we bore up to +the eastward, the wind continuing fresh directly down Barrow's +Strait, except just after passing Prince Leopold's Islands, where +it drew into Prince Regent's Inlet, and, as soon as we had passed +this, again assumed its former westerly direction; affording a +remarkable instance of the manner in which the wind is acted upon +by the particular position of the land, even at a considerable +distance from it. The islands were encumbered with ice to the +distance of four or five miles all found them, but the Strait was +generally as clear and navigable as any part of the Atlantic. + +Having now traced the ice the whole way from the longitude of 114 deg. +to that of 90 deg., without discovering any opening to encourage a +hope of penetrating it to the southward, I could not entertain the +slightest doubt that there no longer remained a possibility of +effecting our object with the present resources of the expedition; +and that it was therefore my duty to return to England with the +account of our late proceedings, that no time might be lost in +following up the success with which we had been favoured, should +his majesty's government consider it expedient to do so. Having +informed the officers and men in both ships of my intentions, I +directed the full allowance of provisions to be in future issued, +with such a proportion of fuel as might contribute to their +comfort; a luxury which, on account of the necessity that existed +for the strictest economy in this article, it must be confessed, +we had not often enjoyed since we entered Sir James Lancaster's +Sound. We had been on two thirds allowance of bread between ten +and eleven months, and on the same reduced proportion of the other +species of provisions between three and four; and, although this +quantity is scarcely enough for working men for any length of +time, I believe the reduction of fuel was generally considered by +far the greater privation of the two. + +As it appeared to me that considerable service might be rendered +by a general survey of the western coast of Baffin's Bay, which, +from Sir James Lancaster's Sound southward, might one day become +an important station for our whalers, I determined to keep as +close to that shore during our passage down as the ice and the +wind would permit; and as the experience of the former voyage had +led us to suppose that this coast would be almost clear of ice +during the whole of September, I thought that this month could not +be better employed than in the examination of its numerous bays +and inlets. Such an examination appeared to me more desirable, +from the hope of finding some new outlet into the Polar Sea in a +lower latitude than that of Sir James Lancaster's Sound; a +discovery which would be of infinite importance towards the +accomplishment of the Northwest Passage. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the +Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River +Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in +the Latitude of 681/4 deg.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless +Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the +Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a +Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather +in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and +Foremast.--Arrival in England. + + +The wind continuing fresh from the northward on the morning of the +1st of September, we bore up and ran along the land, taking our +departure from the flagstaff in Possession Bay, bearing W.S.W. +five miles, at half past four A.M. + +The ice led us off very much to the eastward after leaving Pond's +Bay; and the weather became calm, with small snow towards +midnight. In this day's run, the compass-courses were occasionally +inserted in the logbook, being the first time that the magnetic +needle had been made use of on board the Hecla, for the purposes +of navigation, for more than twelve months. + +On the morning of the 3d we passed some of the highest icebergs I +have ever seen, one of them being not less than one hundred and +fifty to two hundred feet above the sea, judging from the height +of the Griper's masts when near it. + +The vegetation was tolerably luxuriant in some places upon the low +land which borders the sea, consisting principally of the +dwarf-willow, sorrel, saxifrage, and poppy, with a few roots of +scurvy-grass. There was still a great deal of snow remaining even +on the lower parts of the land, on which were numerous ponds of +water; on one of these, a pair of young red-throated divers, which +could not rise, were killed; and two flocks of geese, one of them +consisting of not less than sixty or seventy, were seen by Mr. +Hooper, who described them as being very tame, running along the +beach before our people, without rising, for a considerable +distance. Some glaucous gulls and plovers were killed, and we met +with several tracks of bears, deers, wolves, foxes, and mice. The +coxswain of the boat found upon the beach part of the bone of a +whale, which had been cut at one end by a sharp instrument like an +axe, with a quantity of chips lying about it, affording undoubted +proof of this part of the coast having been visited at no distant +period by Esquimaux; it is more than probable, indeed, that they +may inhabit the shores of this inlet, which time would not now +permit us to examine. More than sixty icebergs of very large +dimensions were in sight from the top of the hill, together with a +number of extensive floes to the northeast and southeast, at the +distance of four or five leagues from the land. + +While occupied in attending to the soundings, soon after noon, our +astonishment may readily be conceived on seeing from the masthead +a ship, and soon after two others, in the offing, which were soon +ascertained to be whalers, standing in towards the land. They +afterward bore up to the northward along the edge of the ice which +intervened between us, and we lost sight of them at night. It was +now evident that this coast, which had hitherto been considered by +the whalers as wholly inaccessible in so high a latitude, had +become a fishing station, like that on the opposite or Greenland +shore; and the circumstance of our meeting so few whales in Sir +James Lancaster's Sound this season was at once accounted for by +supposing, what, indeed, we afterward found to be the case, that +the fishing-ships had been there before us, and had, for a time, +scared them from that ground. + +It was so squally on the morning of the 5th that we could scarcely +carry our double-reefed topsails, while, as we afterward learned +from the fishing-ships, which were in sight at daylight, there was +scarcely a breath of wind at a few leagues' distance from the +land. We coasted this low shore, as we had done in the preceding +voyage, at the distance of two or three miles, having from +twenty-three to twenty-nine fathoms water. We here met with +another of our fishing-ships, which proved to be the Lee, of Hull, +Mr. Williamson, master; from whom we learned, among other events +of a public nature which were altogether new to us, the public +calamity which England had sustained in the death of our late +venerable and beloved sovereign, and also the death of his Royal +Highness the Duke of Kent. Mr. Williamson, among others, had +succeeded in getting across the ice to this coast as high as the +latitude of 73 deg., and had come down to this part in pursuit of the +fish. One or two of the ships had endeavoured to return home by +running down this coast, but had found the ice so close about the +latitude of 69 1/2 deg. as to induce most of the others to sail back to +the northward, in order to get back in the same way that they +came. Mr. Williamson also reported his having, a day or two +before, met with some Esquimaux in the inlet named the River Clyde +in 1818, which was just to the southward of us. Considering it a +matter of some interest to communicate with these people, who had, +probably, not been before visited by Europeans, and that it might, +at the same time, be useful to examine the inlet, I bore up, as +soon as I had sent our despatches and letters on board the Lee, +and stood in towards the rocky islet, called Agnes's Monument, +passing between it and the low point which forms the entrance to +the inlet on the northern side. + +At six in the evening of the 6th, being near the outermost of the +islands with which we afterward found this inlet to be studded, we +observed four canoes paddling towards the ships; they approached +with great confidence, and came alongside without the least +appearance of fear or suspicion. While paddling towards us, and, +indeed, before we could plainly perceive their canoes, they +continued to vociferate loudly; but nothing like a song, nor even +any articulate sound, which can be expressed by words, could be +distinguished. Their canoes were taken on board by their own +desire, plainly intimated by signs, and with their assistance, and +they at once came up the side without hesitation. These people +consisted of an old man, apparently much above sixty, and three +younger, from nineteen to thirty years of age. As soon as they +came on deck, their vociferations seemed to increase with their +astonishment, and, I may add, their pleasure; for the reception +they met with seemed to create no less joy than surprise. Whenever +they received a present or were shown anything which excited fresh +admiration, they expressed their delight by loud and repeated +ejaculations, which they sometimes continued till they were quite +hoarse and out of breath with the exertion. This noisy mode of +expressing their satisfaction was accompanied by a jumping, which +continued for a minute or more, according to the degree of the +passion which excited it, and the bodily powers of the person who +exercised it; the old man being rather too infirm, but still doing +his utmost to go through the performance. + +After some time passed on deck, during which a few skins and ivory +knives were bought from them, they were taken down into the cabin. +The younger ones received the proposal to descend somewhat +reluctantly, till they saw that their old companion was willing to +show them the example, and they then followed without fear. +Although we were much at a loss for an interpreter, we had no +great difficulty in making the old man understand, by showing him +an engraved portrait of an Esquimaux, that Lieutenant Beechey was +desirous of making a similar drawing of him. He was accordingly +placed on a stool near the fire, and sat for more than an hour +with very tolerable composure and steadiness, considering that a +barter for their clothes, spears, and whalebone was going on at +the same time near him. He was, indeed, kept quiet by the presents +which were given him from time to time; and when this failed, and +he became impatient to move, I endeavoured to remind him that we +wished him to keep his position, by placing my hands before me, +holding up my head and assuming a grave and demure look. We now +found that the old gentleman was a mimic, as well as a very +good-natured and obliging man; for, whenever I did this he always +imitated me in such a manner as to create considerable diversion +among his own people as well as ours, and then very quietly kept +his seat. While he was sitting for his picture, the other three +stood behind him, bartering their commodities with great honesty, +but in a manner which showed them to be no strangers to traffic. +If, for instance, a knife was offered for any article, they would +hesitate for a short time, till they saw we were determined to +give no higher price, and then at once consented to the exchange. +In this case, as well as when anything was presented to them, they +immediately licked it twice with their tongues, after which they +seemed to consider the bargain satisfactorily concluded. The +youngest of the party very modestly kept behind the others, and, +before he was observed to have done so, missed several presents, +which his less diffident, though not importunate companions had +received. As the night closed in they became desirous to depart, +and they left us before dark, highly delighted with their visit. +As I had purchased one of their canoes, a boat was sent to land +its late owner, as only one person can sit in each. Mr. Palmer +informed me, that, in going on shore, the canoes could beat our +boat very much in rowing whenever the Esquimaux chose to exert +themselves, but they kept close to her the whole way. During the +time that they were on board, we had observed in them a great +aptness for imitating certain of our words; and, while going on +shore, they took a particular liking to the expression of "Hurra, +give way!" which they heard Mr. Palmer use to the boat's crew, and +which they frequently imitated, to the great amusement of all +parties. + +Soon after we had landed on the 7th, the old Esquimaux and one of +his younger companions paddled over from the main land, and joined +us upon the island. They brought with them, as before, some pieces +of whalebone and sealskin dresses, which were soon disposed of, +great care being taken by them not to produce more than one +article at a time; returning to their canoes, which were at a +little distance from our boat, after the purchase of each of their +commodities, till their little stock was exhausted. Considering it +desirable to keep up among them the ideas of fair and honest +exchange, which they already seemed to possess in no ordinary +degree, I did not permit them to receive anything as presents till +all their commodities had been regularly bought. While we were +waiting to obtain the sun's meridian altitude, they amused +themselves in the most good-natured and cheerful manner with the +boat's crew; and Lieutenant Hoppner, who, with Mr. Beverly, had +joined us in the Griper's boat, took this opportunity of making a +drawing of the young man. It required, however, some show of +authority, as well as some occasional rewards, to keep him quietly +seated on the rock for a time sufficient for this purpose; the +inclination they have to jump about, when much pleased, rendering +it a penalty of no trifling nature for them to sit still for half +an hour together. To show their disposition to do us what little +service was in their power, he afterward employed himself in +sharpening the seamen's knives, which he did with great expertness +on any flat smooth stone, returning each, as soon as finished, to +its proper owner, and then making signs for another, which he +sharpened and returned in the same way, without any attempt, and +apparently without the smallest desire, to detain it. The old man +was extremely inquisitive, and directed his attention to those +things which appeared useful rather than to those which were +merely amusing. An instance of this occurred on my ordering a tin +canister of preserved meat to be opened for the boats' crews' +dinner. The old man was sitting on the rock, attentively watching +the operation, which was performed with an axe struck by a mallet, +when one of the men came up to us with a looking-glass. I held it +up to each of the Esquimaux, who had also seen one on the +preceding evening, and then gave it into each of their hands +successively. The younger one was quite in raptures, and literally +jumped for joy for nearly a quarter of an hour: but the old man, +having had one smile at his own queer face, immediately resumed +his former gravity, and, returning me the glass, directed his +whole attention to the opening of the canister, and, when this was +effected, begged very hard for the mallet which had performed so +useful an office, without expressing the least wish to partake of +the meat, even when he saw us eating it with good appetites. Being +prevailed on, however, to taste a little of it, with some biscuit, +they did not seem at all to relish it, but ate a small quantity, +from an evident desire not to offend us, and then deposited the +rest safely in their canoes. They could not be persuaded to taste +any rum after once smelling it, even when much diluted with water. +I do not know whether it be a circumstance worthy of notice, that +when a kaleidoscope or a telescope was given them to look into, +they immediately shut one eye; and one of them used the right, and +the other the left eye. + +In getting out of their canoes, as well as into them, great care +is required to preserve the balance of these frail and unsteady +coracles, and in this they generally assist each other. As we were +leaving the island, and they were about to follow us, we lay on +our oars to observe how they would manage this; and it was +gratifying to see that the young man launched the canoe of his +aged companion, and, having carefully steadied it alongside the +rock till he had safely embarked, carried his own down, and +contrived, though with some difficulty, to get into it without +assistance. They seem to take especial care, in launching their +canoes, not to rub them against the rocks, by placing one end +gently in the water, and holding the other up high, till it can be +deposited without risk of injury. As soon as we commenced rowing, +the Esquimaux began to vociferate their newly-acquired expression +of "Hurra, give way!" which they continued at intervals, +accompanied by the most good-humoured merriment, as we crossed +over to the main land. There being now a little sea, occasioned by +a weather tide, we found that our boats could easily beat their +canoes in rowing, notwithstanding their utmost endeavours to keep +up with us. + +The two Esquimaux tents which we were now going to visit were +situated just within a low point of land, forming the eastern side +of the entrance to a considerable branch of the inlet, extending +some distance to the northward. The situation is warm and +pleasant, having a southwesterly aspect, and being in every +respect well adapted for the convenient residence of these poor +people. We landed outside the point, and walked over to the tents, +sending our boats, accompanied by the two canoes, round the point +to meet us. As soon as we came in sight of the tents, every living +animal there, men, women, children, and dogs, were in motion; the +latter to the top of the hill out of our way, and the rest to meet +as with loud and continued shouting; the word _pilletay_ (give me) +being the only articulate sound we could distinguish amid the +general uproar. Besides the four men whom we had already seen, +there were four women, one of whom, being about the same age as +the old man, was probably his wife; the others were about thirty, +twenty-two, and eighteen years of age. The first two of these, +whom we supposed to be married to the two oldest of the young men, +had infants slung in a kind of bag at their backs, much in the +same way as gipsies are accustomed to carry their children. There +were also seven children, from twelve to three years of age, +besides the two infants in arms, or, rather, behind their mothers' +backs; and the woman of thirty was with child. + +We began, as before, by buying whatever they had to dispose of, +giving in exchange knives, axes, brass kettles, needles, and other +useful articles, and then added such presents as might be farther +serviceable to them. From the first moment of our arrival until we +left them, or, rather, till we had nothing left to give, the +females were particularly importunate with us, and "pilletay" +resounded from the whole troop, wherever we went; they were +extremely anxious to obtain our buttons, apparently more on +account of the ornament of the crown and anchor which they +observed upon them than from any value they set upon their use; +and several of these were cut off our jackets to please their +fancy. When I first endeavoured to bargain for a sledge, the +persons I addressed gave me distinctly to understand by signs that +it was not their property, and pointed towards the woman who owned +it; though my ignorance in this respect offered a good opportunity +of defrauding me, had they been so inclined, by receiving an +equivalent for that which did not belong to them: on the owner's +coming forward, the bargain was quickly concluded. The pikes which +I gave in exchange underwent the usual ceremony of licking, and +the sledge was carried to our boat with the most perfect +understanding on both sides. In another instance, an axe was +offered by some of the Griper's gentlemen as the price of a dog, +to which the woman who owned the animal consented. To show that we +placed full confidence in them, the axe was given to her before +the dog was caught, and she immediately went away with a kind of +halter or harness of thongs, which, they use for this purpose, and +honestly brought one of the finest among them, though nothing +would have been easier than to evade the performance of the +contract. The readiness, however, with which they generally parted +with their commodities, was by no means the effect of fear, nor +did it always depend on the value of the articles offered in +exchange; for having, as I thought, concluded a bargain for a +second canoe belonging to the old woman, I desired the men to hand +it down to the boat; but I soon perceived that I had misunderstood +her, for she clung fast to the canoe, and cried most piteously +till it was set down; I then offered a larger price than before, +but she could not be induced to part with it. + +The stature of these people, like that of Esquimaux in general, is +much below the usual standard. The height of the old man, who was +rather bent by age, was four feet eleven inches; and that of the +other men, from five feet four and a half to five feet six inches. +Their faces are round and plump in the younger individuals; skin +smooth; complexion not very dark, except that of the old man; +teeth very white; eyes small; nose broad, but not very flat; hair +black, straight, and glossy; and their hands and feet extremely +diminutive. The old man had a gray beard, in which the black hairs +predominated, and wore the hair rather long upon his upper lip, +which was also the case with the eldest of the three others. + +The grown-up females measured from four feet ten to four feet +eleven inches. The features of the two youngest were regular; +their complexions clear, and by no means dark; their eyes small, +black, and piercing; teeth beautifully white and perfect; and, +although the form of their faces is round and chubby, and their +noses rather flat than otherwise, their countenances might, +perhaps, be considered pleasing, even according to the ideas of +beauty which habit has taught us to entertain. Their hair, which +is jet-black, hangs down long and loose about their shoulders, a +part of it on each side being carelessly platted, and sometimes +rolled up into an awkward lump, instead of being neatly tied on +the top of the head, as the Esquimaux women in most other parts +are accustomed to wear it. The youngest female had much natural +bashfulness and timidity, and we considered her to be the only +unmarried one, as she differed from the other three in not being +tattooed upon the face. Two of them had their hands tattooed also, +and the old woman had a few marks of the same kind about each +wrist. None of the men or children were thus distinguished. + +The children were generally good-looking, and the eldest boy, +about twelve years of age, was a remarkably fine and even handsome +lad. They were rather scared at us at first; but kind treatment +and a few trifling presents soon removed their fears, and made +them almost as importunate as the rest. + +The dress of the men consists of a sealskin jacket, with a hood, +which is occasionally drawn over the head, of which it forms the +only covering. The breeches are also generally of sealskin, and +are made to reach below the knee; and their boots, which meet the +breeches, are made of the same material. In this dress we +perceived no difference from that of the other Esquimaux, except +that the jacket, instead of having a pointed flap before and +behind, as usual, was quite straight behind, and had a sort of +scallop before in the centre. In the dress of the women there was +not so much regard to decency as in that of the men. The jacket is +of sealskin, with a short, pointed flap before, and a long one +behind, reaching almost to the ground. They had on a kind of +drawers, similar to those described by Crantz as the summer dress +of the Greenland women, and no breeches. The drawers cover the +middle part of the body, from the hips to one third down the +thigh, the rest of which is entirely naked as far as the knee. The +boots are like those of the men; and, besides these, they have a +pair of very loose leggins, as they may be called, which hang down +carelessly upon the top of the boots, suffering their thighs to be +exposed in the manner before described, but which may be intended +occasionally to fasten up, so as to complete the covering of the +whole body. The children are all remarkably well clothed; their +dress, both in male and female, being in every respect the same as +that of the men, and composed entirely of sealskin very neatly +sewed. + +The tents which compose their summer habitations are principally +supported by a long pole of whalebone, fourteen feet high, +standing perpendicularly, with four or five feet of it projecting +above the skins which form the roof and sides. The length of the +tent is seventeen, and its breadth from seven to nine feet, the +narrowest part being next the door, and widening towards the inner +part, where the bed, composed of a quantity of the small shrubby +plant, the _Andromeda Tetragona_, occupies about one third of the +whole apartment. The pole of the tent is fixed where the bed +commences, and the latter is kept separate by some pieces of bone +laid across the tent from side to side. The door, which faces the +southwest, is also formed of two pieces of bone, with the upper +ends fastened together, and the skins are made to overlap in that +part of the tent, which is much lower than the inner end. The +covering is fastened to the ground by curved pieces of bone, being +generally parts of the whale; the tents were ten or fifteen yards +apart, and about the same distance from the beach. + +The canoe which I purchased, and which was one of the best of the +five that we saw, is sixteen feet eleven inches in length, and its +extreme breadth two feet one inch and a half; two feet of its fore +end are out of the water when floating. It differs from the canoe +of Greenland in being somewhat lower at each end, and also in +having a higher rim or gunwale, as it may be termed, round the +circular hole where the man sits, which may make them somewhat +safer at sea. Their construction is, in other respects, much the +same; the timbers or ribs, which are five or six inches apart, as +well as the fore and aft connecting pieces, being of whalebone or +drift-wood, and the skins with which they were covered, those of +the seal and walrus. When the canoes are taken on the shore, they +are carefully placed upon two upright piles or pillars of stones, +four feet high from the ground, in order to allow the air to pass +under to dry them, and prevent their rotting. The paddle is double +and made of fir, the edges of the blade being covered with hard +bone to secure them from wearing. + +The spears or darts which they use in killing seals and other sea +animals, consist, like the harpoons of our fishermen, of two +parts, a staff, and the spear itself; the former is usually of +wood, when so scarce and valuable a commodity can be obtained, +from three and a half to five feet in length, and the latter of +bone, about eighteen inches long, sometimes tipped with iron, but +more commonly ground to a blunt point at one end, while the other +fits into a socket in the staff, to which it is firmly secured by +thongs. The lines which they attach to their spears are very +neatly cut out of sealskins, and, when in a state of preparation, +are left to stretch till dry between the tents, and then made up +into coils for use. They make use of a bladder fastened to the end +of the line, in the same manner as the other Esquimaux. Besides +the spears, we purchased an instrument having a rude hook of iron +let into a piece of bone, and secured by thongs to a staff, the +hook being sharply pointed, but not barbed. While we were on the +island (to which I had applied the name of Observation Island), it +happened that a small bird flew near us, when one of the Esquimaux +made a sign of shooting it with a bow and arrow in a manner which +could not be misunderstood. It is remarkable, therefore, that we +could not find about their tents any of these weapons, except a +little one of five or six inches long, the bow being made of +whalebone and the arrow of fir, with a feather at one end and a +blunt point of bone at the other, evidently appearing to be a +child's toy, and intended, perhaps, to teach the use of it at an +early age. + +The runners of the only sledge we saw were composed of the right +and left jawbones of a young whale, being nine feet nine inches +long, and one foot seven inches apart, and seven inches high from +the ground. They are connected by a number of parallel pieces, +made out of the ribs of the whale, and secured transversely with +seizings of whalebone, so as to form the bottom of the sledge, and +the back is made of two deers' horns placed in an upright +position. The lower part of the runners is shod with a harder kind +of bone, to resist the friction against the ground. The whole +vehicle is rudely executed, and, being nearly twice the weight of +the sledges we saw among the northern Esquimaux, is probably +intended for carrying heavy burdens. The dogs were not less than +fifty or sixty in number, and had nothing about them different +from those on the eastern coast of Baffin's Bay, except they do +not stand near so high as those of the latitude of 76 deg. They are +very shy and wild, and the natives had great difficulty in +catching them while we were by, as well as holding them in when +caught. Some of them have much more of the wolf in their +appearance than others, having very long heads and sharp noses, +with a brushy tail, almost always carried between the legs; while +the bodies of others are less lank, as well as their noses less +sharp, and they carry their tails handsomely curled over their +backs: their colour varied from quite dark to brindled. The +ravenous manner in which they devour their food is almost +incredible. Both the old and young ones, when a bird is given +them, generally swallow feathers and all; and an old dog that I +purchased, though regularly fed while on board by a person +appointed for that purpose, ate up, with great avidity, a large +piece of canvass, a cotton handkerchief, which one of the men had +just washed and laid down by his side, and a part of a check +shirt. The young dogs will at any time kill themselves by +over-eating if permitted. The children appeared to have some right +of property in the smaller puppies, or else their parents are very +indulgent to them, for several bargains of this kind were made +with them, without any objection or interference on the part of +the parents, who were standing by at the time. + +Within a few stones, irregularly placed in a corner of each tent, +was a lump of oil and moss, and over each of these was suspended a +small stone vessel of an oblong shape, and broader at the top than +at the bottom, containing a large mess of seahorse flesh, with a +great quantity of thick gravy. Some ribs of this meat were by no +means bad looking; and, but for the blood mixed with the gravy, +and the dirt which accompanied the cooking, might perhaps be +palatable enough. I bargained with a woman for one of the stone +vessels, giving her a brass kettle in exchange. Before she gave it +into my possession, she emptied the meat into another vessel, and +then, with the flap of her jacket, wiped out the remains of the +gravy; thus combining with what our notions of cleanliness incline +us to consider a filthy act, an intention of decency and a desire +to oblige us, which, however inconsistent, it was pleasing to +observe. Some of their vessels are made of whalebone, in a +circular form, one piece being bent into the proper shape for the +sides, and another flat piece, of the same material, sewn to it +for a bottom, so closely as to make it perfectly water tight. +Their knives are made of the tusks of the walrus, cut or ground +sufficiently thin for the purpose, and retaining the original +curve of the tusk, so as to resemble the little swords which +children have as toys in England. As they do not appear to have +any instrument like a saw, great time and labour must be required +in making one of these knives, which seem to answer most of the +purposes to which they have occasion to apply them. + +From the description given to us by Mr. Williamson, we found that +these were the same persons who had been seen by the Lee's people; +but we had several proofs of their having had some previous +communication, directly or indirectly, with the civilized world; +such as some light-blue beads, strung by themselves on thin +leathern threads; and an instrument for chopping, very much +resembling a cooper's adze, which had evidently been secured to a +handle of bone for some time past, and of which the iron was part +of an old file. + +The short time we were among them, as well as the want of an +interpreter, prevented our obtaining much of the information, +which would have been interesting, respecting the language, +manners, and number of this tribe of Esquimaux. They call the bear +_nennook_, the deer _tooktook_, and the hare _ookalik_, being +nearly the same words as those used on the eastern coast of +Baffin's Bay. As it was considered a matter of some interest to +ascertain whether they were acquainted with the musk-ox, a drawing +of that animal was put before the men who were on board. The small +size of it seemed, at first sight, to confound them; but, as soon +as the real head and horns were produced, they immediately +recognised them, and eagerly repeated the word _oomingmack_, which +at once satisfied us that they knew the musk-ox, and that this was +the animal spoken of by the Esquimaux of Greenland, under the same +name, somewhat differently pronounced. + +To judge by their appearance, and what is, perhaps, a better +criterion, the number of their children, there could be little +doubt that the means of subsistence which they possess are very +abundant; but of this we had more direct proof by the quantity of +seahorses and seals which we found concealed under stones along +the shore of the north branch, as well as on Observation Island. +Mr. Fife reported that, in sounding the north branch, he met with +their winter huts above two miles above the tents on the same +shore, and that they were partly excavated from a bank facing the +sea, and the rest built round with stones. + +We saw no appearance of disease among the seventeen persons who +inhabited the tents, except that the eyes of the old couple were +rather blear, and a very young infant looked pale and sickly. The +old man had a large scar on one side of his head, which he +explained to us very clearly to be a wound he had received from a +_nennook_ (bear). Upon the whole, these people may be considered +in possession of every necessary of life, as well as of most of +the comforts and conveniences which can be enjoyed in so rude a +state of society. In the situation and circumstances in which the +Esquimaux of North Greenland are placed, there is much to excite +compassion for the low state to which human nature appears to be +there reduced; a state in few respects superior to that of the +bear or the seal which they kill for their subsistence. But, with +these, it was impossible not to experience a feeling of a more +pleasing kind: there was a respectful decency in their general +behaviour, which at once struck us as very different from that of +the other untutored Esquimaux, and in their persons there was less +of that intolerable filth by which these people are so generally +distinguished. But the superiority for which they are the most +remarkable is, the perfect honesty which characterized all their +dealings with us. During the two hours that the men were on board, +and for four or five hours that we were subsequently among them on +shore (on both which occasions the temptation to steal from us was +perhaps stronger than we can well imagine, and the opportunity of +doing so by no means wanting), not a single instance occurred, to +my knowledge, of their pilfering the most trifling article. It is +pleasing to record a fact no less singular in itself than +honourable to these simple people. + +Having made the necessary observations, we went to the tents to +take leave of our new acquaintance. The old man seemed quite +fatigued with the day's exertions; but his eyes sparkled with +delight, and we thought with gratitude too, on being presented +with another brass kettle to add to the stores with which we had +already enriched him. He seemed to understand us when we shook him +by the hand; the whole group watched us in silence as we went into +the boat, and, as soon as we had rowed a few hundred yards from +the beach, quietly returned to their tents. + +The wind being contrary on the 8th, we made very little progress +to the southward. The soundings continuing as regular as before, +we stood in-shore to eleven fathoms, and put the trawl overboard +for an hour or two in the afternoon, bringing up a great quantity +of sea-eggs, a few very small oysters, and some marine insects, +but nothing that could furnish us with a fresh meal. + +The wind having fallen, we made little progress to the southeast +till the morning of the 12th, when a light breeze springing up +from the southwest, all sail was made to examine the state of the +ice. On approaching the floes, however, we found such a quantity +of bay-ice, the formation of which upon the surface had been +favoured by the late calm weather, that the Hecla was soon stopped +altogether; a circumstance which gave us, as usual, much trouble +in extricating ourselves from it, but not very material as +regarded our farther progress to the southward, the floes being +found to stretch quite close in to the land, leaving no passage +whatever between them. The compasses now traversed very freely, +and were made use of for the purposes of navigation in the +ordinary way. + +The fog continued so thick on the 16th as to oblige us to keep the +ships fast to the floe. In the afternoon the deep-sea clamms were +sent down to the bottom with two thousand and ten fathoms of line, +which were fifty-eight minutes in running out, during which time +no perceptible check could be observed, nor even any alteration in +the velocity with which the line ran out. In hauling it in again, +however, which occupied both ships' companies above an hour and a +half, we found such a quantity of the line covered with mud as to +prove that the whole depth of water was only eight hundred and +nine fathoms, the rest of the line having continued to run out by +its own weight, after the instrument had struck the ground. I have +before had occasion to remark that, on this account, it is not +easy to ascertain the actual depth of the sea in the usual manner +when it exceeds five or six hundred fathoms. + +The ships were secured to a berg at six P.M. of the 18th, and the +wind having freshened up to a gale from the N.W.b.N., with some +swell, we were much annoyed during the night by the ice which +drifted under the lee of it, and on which the ships were +constantly striking with a heavy shock, such as no others could +have long withstood. This danger is avoided by ships lying very +close under the lee of a berg, but a much greater is thereby +incurred from the risk of the berg's upsetting; a circumstance +which is always to be apprehended in a swell, and which must be +attended with certain destruction to a ship moored very near to +it. + +On the 24th and 25th we continued our progress to the southward, +but without any success in approaching, or even getting sight of, +the land; the ice being as close and compact as when we sailed +along the margin of it in July of the preceding year. Soon after +noon on the 24th we crossed the Arctic Circle, having been within +it fourteen months and three weeks. + +On the morning of the 26th we again stood to the westward as much +as the ice would allow, but were soon obliged by it to keep away +to the southward, precluding every hope of making the land on that +part of the coast which it would have been most interesting to +explore. In the afternoon, after various attempts to get to the +westward, appearances became more unpromising than ever, the +packed ice extending from N.b.E. round to S.W. There were, indeed, +parts of the ice which, with constant daylight, a ship might have +entered with some probability of success; but, with twelve hours' +night, the attempt must have been attended with a degree of risk +which nothing but a very important object could justify. The wind +had now freshened up from the N.N.W., and the mercury in the +barometer fell with unusual rapidity, with every other appearance +of an approaching gale. I was therefore under the necessity of +admitting the conclusion that, under existing circumstances, the +season was now too far advanced, and the state of the ice too +unfavourable, to allow of any farther examination of the coast; +and I determined, therefore, to make the best of my way to +England. The boats were accordingly hoisted in, and the ships made +snug while in smooth water under the lee of the ice, and a course +was then shaped to the E.S.E., in order to obtain an offing before +we bore away to the southward. + +On the second of October, in scudding before the wind under the +main-topsail, a heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard +quarter, rendering it necessary to press her forward under more +canvass, by which we lost sight of the Griper in the course of the +morning. As soon as the weather moderated, we hove-to for her; +but, as she did not make her appearance, having, as we afterward +learned, been obliged to lie-to during the height of the gale, we +continued our course out of the Straits, and did not again meet +with the Griper till our return to England. + +On the afternoon of the 16th, the sea being very high and +irregular, and the ship pitching with considerable violence, the +bowsprit was carried away close to the gammoning, and the foremast +and main-topmast immediately followed it over the side. The wreck +was quickly cleared; and, by the greatest activity and energy on +the part of the officers and men, the mainyard and mainmast were +saved, the latter having been endangered by the foremast falling +across the stay, and the former by the wreck of the main-topmast +and top-sail-yard lying upon it. Notwithstanding the continuance +of the gale, and the uneasy motion of the ship for the next two +days, we succeeded in getting up our jury masts so as to make sail +on the evening of the 18th. + +On the 29th we made Buchaness, and on the following day, the wind +having come to the southward, so as to make our progress very +slow, I landed at Peterhead, accompanied by Captain Sabine and Mr. +Hooper; having first, in compliance with their lordships' +directions, demanded from the officers, petty officers, and all +other persons on board the Hecla, the logs, journals, charts, +drawings, and other documents which the voyage had furnished, and +directed Lieutenant Beechey to proceed with all possible despatch +to Leith. Captain Sabine and myself proceeded without delay to +London, where we arrived on the morning of the 3d of November. + + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A +NORTHWEST PASAGE + + + + +PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. + + +The discoveries made by the expedition to the northwest in the +years 1819-20 being such as to afford a strong presumption in +favour of the existence of a passage from the Atlantic to the +Pacific in that direction, his majesty commanded another attempt +to be made to effect that object; and the lords commissioners of +the admiralty were pleased once more to honour me with the command +of an expedition, to be equipped at Deptford for that purpose. The +Hecla having been found well adapted to this service, a second +ship of precisely the same class was now selected, and I received +my commission for his majesty's ship the Fury, of three hundred +and seventy-seven tons burden, on the 30th of December, 1820. The +Hecla was recommissioned by Captain George Francis Lyon on the 4th +of January following. + +In our official instructions I was directed to proceed, as quickly +as might be consistent with every precaution, towards or into +Hudson's Strait until the ice was met with, when the Nautilus +transport, which was directed by the navy board to be placed at my +disposal, was to be cleared of its provisions and stores. We were +then to penetrate to the westward, through Hudson's Strait, until +we reached (either in Repulse Bay, or on other part of the shores +of Hudson's Strait to the north of Wager River) some part of the +coast, which I felt convinced was a portion of the _Continent_ of +America. + +If we happily reached the Pacific, we were to proceed to +Kamschatka, from thence to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, and, +having refitted the ships and refreshed the crews, to return to +England by such route as might be deemed convenient. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus +Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus +for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous +Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the +Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with +the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity +Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the +Researches of the Expedition commence. + + +The FURY, HECLA, and NAUTILUS transport were completed for sea +towards the latter part of the month of April, and on the 29th, at +ten A.M., the Fury was taken in tow by the Eclipse steamboat, +which vessel had before taken us down the river on a similar +occasion. The Hecla reached the moorings on the following day, and +the Nautilus on the first of May. + +Nothing of consequence happened during our passage across the +Atlantic; but, after entering Davis's Straits, we had for several +days variable and unsettled weather, the wind blowing principally +from the southward, with a heavy swell from the same quarter. On +the 14th we met with the first iceberg, being in lat. 60 deg. 48', +long. 53 deg. 13'. + +Having now reached the situation in which I was directed, by my +instructions, to clear the Nautilus of our stores, I gave +Lieutenant Scrymgour his instructions to return to England; and at +one A.M. on the 1st of July he parted company, while the Fury and +Hecla stood in towards the ice. A whaler, deeply laden, and +apparently homeward bound, was at this time in sight to the +eastward. + +At seven P.M., Tuesday, 3d July, the ice opposed our farther +progress to the westward, covering the whole sea as far as the eye +could reach in that direction; the ships were therefore, of +necessity, hove to, in order to await some change in our favour. +The ice here consisted principally of large though loose masses of +broken floes, none covering more than a quarter of an acre, and +few so much, but having many high hummocks, and drawing a great +deal of water. We counted also above thirty bergs in sight at one +time, and observed that many of them were carried about by the +tides with great rapidity. + +The wind shifted to the southeastward in the night of the 5th, +with a strong breeze and heavy rain; and, on the following +morning, when the ebb-tide opened the ice a little, a considerable +swell was admitted from the sea, causing the ships to strike +violently and almost constantly on the masses of ice alongside of +them. In this situation they continued for several hours so +completely beset as to render it impossible to extricate them, and +drifting about at random with the tides. The Hecla was, by a +different set of the stream, separated five or six miles from the +Fury, while both ships were equally hampered. + +On the 13th, both ships' companies were exercised in firing at a +target on the ice, as well for the purpose of giving them +occupation as of finding out who were the best shots. On the same +afternoon we saw two ships beset to the northward, which we +supposed to be those bound to the Hudson's Bay factories. They +were joined the next day by a third ship, which afterward proved +to be, as we conjectured, the Lord Wellington, having on board +settlers for the Red River. + +The ice being rather less close on the morning of the 16th, we +made sail to the westward at 7.45 A.M., and continued "boring" in +that situation the whole day, which enabled us to join the three +strange ships. They proved to be, as we had supposed, the Prince +of Wales, Eddystone, and Lord Wellington, bound to Hudson's Bay. I +sent a boat to the former to request Mr. Davidson, the master, to +come on board, which he immediately did. From him we learned that +the Lord Wellington having on board one hundred and sixty settlers +for the Red River, principally foreigners, of both sexes and every +age, had now been twenty days among the ice, and had been drifted +about in various directions at no small risk to the ship. By the +Prince of Wales we sent our last letters for our friends in +England. + +Proceeding slowly to the westward, we had reached at noon on the +21st the lat. of 61 deg. 50' 13", long., by chronometers, 67 deg. 07' 35". +In this situation several islands were in sight to the northward +and westward, and, among the rest, a remarkable one called +Saddle-back on account of its shape. The wind backing to the +westward in the afternoon, we anchored the ships to the largest +floe-piece we could find, there not being room to beat to the +windward. While thus employed we heard voices in-shore, which we +soon knew to be those of some Esquimaux coming off to us. Shortly +after, several canoes made their appearance, and seventeen of +these people came alongside the Fury. Having hauled their _kayaks_ +(canoes) upon the floe, they began to barter their commodities, +consisting of seal and whale blubber, whalebone, spears, lines, +and the skins of the seal, bear, fox, deer, and dog. Our first +endeavour was to procure as much oil as possible, of which, as we +had been informed by the Hudson's Bay ships, several tons are thus +almost annually obtained from these people. We soon found that +they had been well accustomed to bargain-making, for it was with +some difficulty that we could prevail on them to sell the oil for +anything of reasonable value. They frequently gave us to +understand that they wanted saws and harpoons in exchange for it, +and as these were articles which we could not spare, it was not +without trouble that we obtained, in the course of the evening, +two barrels of blubber in exchange for several knives, large +nails, and pieces of iron hoop, which was certainly a dear bargain +on our side. If they saw more than one of these at a time, they +would try hard to get the whole for the commodity they were +offering, though, when we had for some time persisted in refusing, +they would not only accept what was offered, but jump for joy at +having obtained it. They always licked the articles given them, +and in one instance only did we notice any inclination to break +the contract after this process had been gone through. + +Shortly after these men had arrived, a large _oomiak_, or woman's +boat, made its appearance, containing six or seven females and +four men, the oldest of the latter, as is usual among them, +steering the boat with a rude oar of wood. The women could not be +induced to land upon the floe, but held up skins and small narrow +strips of well-tanned leather to exchange, loudly vociferating +_pilletay_ (give me) the whole time. There were in this boat +several skins of oil and blubber, which I tried hard to purchase, +but nothing could induce the old man to part with more than one +skin of it; for what reason I could not tell, except that he +hoped, by perseverance, to obtain a higher price. On my desiring +our men to hand out a second skin of oil, as an equivalent for +which I put into the old man's hand a second knife, he resisted +most vehemently, pushing our men aside in the boat with a violence +I have never seen the Esquimaux use on any other occasion. One of +the younger men then came forward, and was lifting up the stretcher +of their boat to strike our people, who were good-humouredly +laughing at the old man's violence, when I thought it high time to +interpose, and, raising a boat-hook over the head of the Esquimaux, +as if about to strike them, soon brought them into a cooler mood; +after which, to prevent farther altercation, I ordered our people +out of the boat. We had by this time succeeded in purchasing all +the oil brought by the first canoes; and as the old fellow, who was +commanding officer of the _oomiak_, obstinately persisted in his +refusal to sell his, I ordered him away, when he immediately rowed +to the Hecla, and, as I was afterward informed by Captain Lyon, +sold his oil for less than he might have obtained at first. Four +other _oomiaks_ afterward came from the shore, from which we were +distant five or six miles. Each of these contained from fourteen to +twenty-six persons, the majority being females and young children. +Upon the whole, not less than one hundred of the natives visited +the ships in the course of the evening. + +These people possessed in an eminent degree the disposition to +steal all they could lay their hands on, which has almost +universally been imputed to every tribe of Esquimaux hitherto +visited by Europeans. They tried more than once the art of picking +our pockets, and were as bold and unembarrassed as ever +immediately after detection. It is impossible to describe the +horribly disgusting manner in which they sat down, as soon as they +felt hungry, to eat their raw blubber, and to suck the oil +remaining on the skins we had just emptied, the very smell of +which, as well as the appearance, was to us almost insufferable. +The disgust which our seaman could not help expressing at this +sight seemed to create in the Esquimaux the most malicious +amusement; and when our people turned away, literally unable to +bear the sight without being sick, they would, as a good joke +among themselves, run after them, holding out a piece of blubber +or raw seal's flesh dripping with oil and filth, as if inviting +them to partake of it. Both the men and women were guilty of still +more disgusting indecencies, which seemed to afford them amazing +diversion. A worse trait even than all these was displayed by two +women alongside the Hecla, who, in a manner too unequivocal to be +misunderstood, offered to barter their children for some article +of trifling value, beginning very deliberately to strip them of +their clothes, which they did not choose to consider as included +in the intended bargain. + +Upon the whole, it was impossible for us not to receive a very +unfavourable impression of the general behaviour and moral +character of the natives of this part of Hudson's Strait, who seem +to have acquired, by an annual intercourse with our ships for +nearly a hundred years, many of the vices which unhappily attend a +first intercourse with the civilized world, without having imbibed +any of the virtues or refinements which adorn and render it happy. + +Early on the morning of the 22d a number of canoes repeated their +visit to us, the Esquimaux having hauled them upon a piece of ice +to lodge for the night. In the forenoon an _oomiak_ also came from +the shore, and as no intercourse with them was permitted till +after divine service, they became very impatient to barter their +commodities, and walked on the ice alongside the ships, with a +number of trifling things in their hands, vociferating "pilletay" +to such a degree that we could hardly hear ourselves speak. Some +more oil was obtained in exchange for pieces of iron hoop, and, at +a quarter before noon, the wind coming more to the southward, and +the ice being somewhat less close than before, we cast off and +made sail up the strait. + +The wind and ice combined to favour us more and more as we +proceeded, the former both in strength and direction, and the +latter by opening into loose streams, so that, for the first time +since we entered Hudson's Strait, we were now enabled to set all +the studding-sails, with some prospect of deriving advantage from +them. The Hudson's Bay ships remained at anchor some time after we +made sail, and in the course of the evening we finally lost sight +of them. From this circumstance, as well as from the unimpeded +progress we had just begun to make to the westward, it was now +only that we considered our voyage as having fairly commenced. + +We continued, on the first of August, to beat to the westward, +between Nottingham Island and the North Shore, the distance +between which is about four leagues, and the latter fringed with +numerous islands. In the course of the morning, several canoes and +one _oomiak_ came off from the mainland, containing about twenty +persons, more than half of whom were women and children. They +brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, +which they were willing to exchange for any trifle we chose to +give them. They had also a number of toys of various kinds, such +as canoes with their paddles, spears, and bows and arrows, all on +a very large scale. Many of the jackets of these people, and +particularly those of the females, were lined with the skins of +birds, having the feathers inside; and they had also in the boat +several other skins in a prepared state, taken from the throat of +the _colymbus glacialis_, which splendid bird, though we had twice +found its skin in possession of the Esquimaux, we had yet not met +with ourselves. + +The expedition being now about to enter upon ground not hitherto +explored, it became necessary for me to decide upon the route it +would be most advantageous to pursue for the accomplishment of the +principal objects pointed out in my instructions. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches +of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in +the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of +York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the +Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the +Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in +Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on +Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural +History of this Part of the Continental Coast. + + +After the most anxious consideration, I came to the resolution of +attempting the direct passage of the Frozen Strait; though, I +confess, not without some apprehension of the risk I was +incurring, and of the serious loss of time which, in case of +failure either from the non-existence of the strait or from the +insuperable obstacles which its name implies, would thus be +inevitably occasioned to the expedition. + +The accounts given by Captain Middleton of the latitude of the +western entrance of the Frozen Strait are so confused, and even +contradictory, that the present appearance of the land perplexed +me extremely in deciding whether or not we had arrived at the +opposite end of the opening to which he had given that name. That +immediately before us to the westward, though it agreed in +latitude within five or six miles with the southernmost parallel +he has assigned to it, appeared much too narrow to answer his +description of the passage we were in search of. Upon the whole, +however, I thought it most probable that this was the strait in +question; and as, at all events, the opening between Southampton +Island and the land to the northward of it, in whatever latitude +it might be found, and whether wide or narrow, was the passage +through which it was our present object to penetrate into Repulse +Bay, I decided on using our utmost exertions to push through the +narrow strait now before us. + +On the morning of the 13th we observed something very like smoke +rising from about Cape Welsford, which, being confined to one +spot, was thought likely to be occasioned by the fires of natives. +Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather about this time; +the climate was, indeed, altogether so different from that to +which we had before been accustomed in the icy seas, as to be a +matter of constant remark. The days were temperate and clear, and +the nights not cold, though a very thin plate of ice was usually +formed upon the surface of the sea in sheltered places, and in the +pools of water upon the floes. After sunset we descried land, +appearing very distant, through the middle of the strait, which we +considered to be that on the American side of the Welcome. At this +time, also, we observed some ice in the centre of the strait +heavier than that which covered the rest of the sea, and +apparently aground in shoal water, as afterward proved to be the +case. + +On the 15th we were within a league of a remarkable headland on +Southampton Island, which I named CAPE BYLOT, as being probably +the westernmost land seen by that navigator in 1615. In the mean +time, the Hecla, still continuing very closely beset, had, in +spite of every exertion, drifted back with the ice several miles +to the northward and eastward, so that in the course of the +evening we lost sight of her altogether. This latter circumstance +was, however, owing in great measure to the extraordinary +refraction upon the horizon, making terrestrial objects at the +distance of six or seven miles appear flattened down or depressed, +as well as otherwise much deformed. + +At six P.M., having beat up within five or six miles of the +entrance of the strait, and being anxious to sound the channel, +which appeared narrow, but without any ice in it to offer us +obstruction, I left the ship in the gig, accompanied by Mr. Ross, +for this purpose. + +The part of Southampton Island on which we landed is about a +thousand feet high, and composed of gneiss. Every here and there +along the shore, between the projecting points of rocks, is a +small cove or bay, having a beach composed of small pieces of +limestone, which make the water almost as white as milk. Landing +in one of these coves, we carried the boat above high-water mark; +and making a tent of her sail, lay very comfortably during the +night. When the boat first touched the beach, we observed an +innumerable quantity of the little fish called sillocks swimming +about, several of which were killed by the boat-hooks or taken in +the hand. A great number of white whales, seals, and narwhals were +also playing about near the beach during the night. The white +whales were the most numerous; the noise these animals made +resembled a hoarse, low-toned barking more than any other to which +I can compare it; and we remarked that their colour was whiter +than any we had before seen. + +As soon as it was daylight Mr. Ross and myself ascended the hill +above our sleeping-place, from whence we could perceive land +stretching round to the westward and northward, so as apparently +to leave no opening in that quarter. We were much surprised at the +low and yellowish appearance of this land, both of which +circumstances we were at a loss to reconcile with Captain +Middleton's description of the bold shore of the American +Continent, on the western side of the Welcome, about this +latitude. It was pleasing, however, to observe a large expanse of +sea, wholly unencumbered with ice, in the direction we were now +about to pursue; and we therefore hastened to the beach to +continue the survey of the strait, that no time might be lost in +taking advantage of this favourable circumstance. + +After completing our observations and examination of the channel, +we reached the ship by eight A.M., the Fury having, with great +attention, been kept close off the entrance of the strait during +the night. The Hecla had at this time just hove in sight, under a +press of sail, to the eastward, having at length, with much +difficulty, succeeded in getting into clear water. + +At half past nine on the 17th we got under way, and stood under +all sail to the N.N.E., where alone, as on the preceding evening, +there appeared the smallest chance of finding any outlet. + +Having determined the continuity of land all round this +magnificent bay, possessing so many advantages that would render +it invaluable in a more temperate climate, the officers honoured +it with the name of the DUKE OF YORK'S BAY, in consequence of the +expedition having first entered it on the birthday of his royal +highness. + +It being now evident that the inlet into which, in the course of +our endeavours to penetrate to the westward, we had unavoidably +been led, would afford us no passage in that direction, I gave +orders for weighing at the turn of tide, being determined at once +to run back through the narrow channel by which we had entered, +and to push to the northward without delay, in search of some more +favourable opening. + +Our uncertainty respecting the true situation of the Frozen +Strait, together with the want of observations during the day, +left us, at this time, in doubt whether we had already penetrated +through that passage, or had still to encounter the difficulties +which the former accounts of it had led us to anticipate. + +We stood up the bay towards daylight, and at seven A.M. I left the +Fury, accompanied by a large party of officers, having by signal +requested Captain Lyon to join us. We landed upon a point just to +the eastward of this bight, in which neighbourhood are several +little islands and coves, probably affording good anchorage, but +which the more immediate objects we had in view did not permit us +to examine. Upon the point we found the remains of no less than +sixty Esquimaux habitations, consisting of stones laid one over +the other in very regular circles, eight or nine feet in diameter, +besides nearly a hundred other rude, though certainly artificial +structures, some of which had been fireplaces, others storehouses, +and the rest tolerably-built walls four or five feet high, placed +two and two, and generally eight or nine feet apart, which these +people use for their canoes, as well as to keep the dogs from +gnawing them. A great many circles of stones were also seen more +inland. About three miles to the N.N.W. of our landing-place, our +people reported having seen fifteen others of the same kind, and +what they took to be a burying-ground, consisting of nine or ten +heaps of large stones, of three feet in diameter, and as many in +height. Under these were found a variety of little implements, +such as arrow or spear heads tipped with stone or iron, arrows, +small models of canoes and paddles, some rough pieces of bone and +wood, and one or two strips of asbestos, which, as Crantz informs +us, is used by the natives of Greenland for the wick of their +lamps, and for applying hot, in certain diseases, to the afflicted +part.[*] Under these articles were found smaller stones, placed as +a pavement, six or seven feet in length, which, in the part not +concealed by the larger stones, was covered with earth. Our men +had not the curiosity or inclination to dig any deeper, but a +human scull was found near the spot. Our people also reported +that, several miles inland of this, they observed stones set up as +marks, many of which we also met with in the neighbourhood of the +point. Of these marks, which occur so abundantly in every part of +the American coast that we visited, we could not then conjecture +the probable use, but we afterward learned that the Esquimaux set +them up to guide them in travelling from place to place, when a +covering of snow renders it difficult to distinguish one spot from +another. We found among the stones some seals' bones, with the +flesh still upon them, which seemed to indicate that the natives +had occupied this station during a part of the same season and +judging from the number of circles collected in this place, and +still more from our subsequent knowledge of these people, it is +probable that not less than one hundred and twenty persons had +taken up their residence here at the same time. + +[Footnote: Crantz, i., 236. The Esquimaux on this part of the +coast use it only as sticks for trimming their lamps.] + +The latitude observed on shore was 66 deg. 30' 58", being the first +observation we had yet obtained so near the Arctic Circle, but far +to the southward of that given by Captain Middleton.[*] The +longitude, by chronometers, was 86 deg. 30' 20"; the dip of the +magnetic needle, 88 deg. 07' 28"; and the variation, 48 deg. 32' 57" +westerly; being only a degree and a half less than that observed +by Middleton in 1742. + +[Footnote: The difference amounts to about twenty miles. It is but +justice, however, to the memory of Captain Middleton to add, that +several miles of this error may have been occasioned by the +imperfection of nautical instruments in his day, combined with the +unavoidable inaccuracy of observations made by the horizon of the +sea when encumbered with much ice. On this latter account, as well +as from the extraordinary terrestrial refraction, no observation +can be here depended upon, unless made with an artificial +horizon.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of +Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's +Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor +in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and +Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted +by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the +Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships +made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the +Inlet commenced in the Boats. + + +Having now satisfactorily determined the non-existence of a +passage to the westward through Repulse Bay, to which point I was +particularly directed in my instructions, it now remained for me, +in compliance with my orders, to "keep along the line of this +coast to the northward, always examining every bend or inlet which +might appear likely to afford a practicable passage to the +westward." It was here, indeed, that our voyage, as regarded its +main object, may be said to have commenced, and we could not but +congratulate ourselves on having reached this point so early, and +especially at having passed, almost without impediment, the strait +to which, on nearly the same day[*] seventy-nine years before, so +forbidding a name had been applied. + +[Footnote: Middleton discovered the Frozen Strait on the 20th +August 1742, according to the New Style.] + +All sail was made at daylight on the 23d along the northern shore +of the Frozen Strait, which here continues about the same height +as that of Repulse Bay, and was at this time quite free from snow. +At nine A.M. the weather became squally with thick snow, which +rendered great caution necessary in running. There was something +in the appearance of this part of the coast which held out so +favourable a prospect of a direct passage to the northward, that I +determined more closely to examine it. Having beat up to the mouth +of an opening which, the nearer we approached, assumed a more and +more favourable appearance, we found that a body of ice occupied +the greater part of the channel, rendering it impracticable then +to enter it either with the ships or the boats. The only mode +left, therefore, of examining it without loss of time, was to +despatch a party equipped for travelling by land, to ascertain +enough of its extent and communications to enable me to decide as +to our farther progress. As, however, in their present situation, +I did not feel myself justified in leaving the ships, I requested +Captain Lyon to undertake this service. He was accompanied by Mr. +Bushnan and two seamen from each ship, and was furnished with a +tent, blankets, and four days' provisions. + +Captain Lyon, on his return, at the end of two days, reported that +he had landed on an island, which he called BUSHNAN'S ISLAND, had +then crossed a strait, to which afterward the name of HURD'S +CHANNEL was given, and landed on a steep point called by him CAPE +MONTAGU. From hence his party proceeded to a high and remarkable +hill called BROOKS'S BLUFF: following the strait to the northward, +they passed the remains of many Esquimaux habitations; and, though +their short journey had been unsatisfactory on account of the +badness of the weather, there was still sufficient to cause the +most lively interest, and give strong hopes of the existence of +some passage to the northeast of the small inlet they had +examined. + +At eight P.M., having shoaled the water from sixty to forty, and +then to thirty-two fathoms, and the weather still continuing +extremely thick, I suspected that the tide was taking us too close +to Passage Island, which was the nearest land when the fog came +on. A large space of open water was at this time not more than a +quarter of a mile distant from us in the opposite direction; but, +before the ships could be moved by warps or any other means within +our power, the tide was observed to be setting her directly +between the island and the little yellow-looking rock I have +before mentioned as lying on its eastern side. The anchors were +kept ready to drop in an instant should the ship drive into shoal +water; had we grounded, and the heavy masses of ice continued to +drive upon us, little less than the total destruction of the ship +was to be apprehended. The natural direction of the stream, +however, effected for us that which, hampered as we were, our own +exertions must have failed in accomplishing; the ship drove +through, at the distance of one hundred yards from the rock and +about one hundred and forty from Passage Island, having no less +than twelve fathoms; and soon after deepened the water to +thirty-five and forty, and then to no bottom with ninety. + +After this providential escape we lay-to within the island, in +order to drift to the northward and westward of it with the flood +tide, which runs stronger here than in any other part of the +Frozen Strait. The night was fine, but extremely dark, so that +after ten o'clock we could not distinguish where the land lay, and +the compasses could not be depended on. After an ineffectual +attempt to push through the ice towards the middle of the Strait, +in order to avoid the danger of being entangled among the numerous +islands lying off this shore, we were literally obliged to let the +ship take her chance, keeping the lead going and the anchors in +readiness. + +The Hecla having got clear of the ice the preceding evening, and +narrowly escaped an adventure similar to that which we had +experienced, rejoined us early in the morning, when Captain Lyon +returned to her to prepare a boat for his intended excursion. We +then stood in under all sail for the land, and at eleven A.M. +Captain Lyon left the Hecla, while the ships tacked off and on to +await his return. At nine P.M. Captain Lyon returned, acquainting +me that he had met with a small bay having no stream of tide, and +being at present clear of ice, he thought it might answer our +purpose, but he wished me to see it before the ships were taken +in. + +A boat from each ship being prepared, Captain Lyon and myself left +the cove at three P.M. to proceed on the proposed examination. We +separated at Point Cheyne, Captain Lyon having pointed out to me +the broad eastern channel from which the tide appeared to come, +and which if was my intention to examine, while he directed his +attention to the smaller passage he had described as leading to +the northward. It was agreed that we should return to the ships +with as little delay as was consistent with the object we had in +view, namely, to ascertain through which of the two channels it +was expedient or practicable to bring the ships. + +The breeze moderated soon after our landing, and a fine clear +night succeeded. At four in the morning Mr. Ross and myself +ascended the nearest hill, in the hope of being able to satisfy +ourselves respecting the existence of a passage for the ships in +at least one direction. I therefore directed the tents to be +struck, and everything to be in readiness for moving on our +return. On reaching the summit of the first hill, however, we +found, as is not unfrequently the case, that our view was but +little improved, and that no prospect could be obtained to the +northward without ascending the higher hill seen the preceding +evening, which we now found still several miles beyond us. While +preparing for this, I felt so much indisposed, that, being +apprehensive of laying myself up at a time when I could least +afford to do so, I determined to intrust the proposed service to +Mr. Ross, in whose zeal and ability to accomplish it I felt the +utmost confidence. Mr. Ross and his party accordingly set out for +the hill at six A.M. On his return in the evening Mr. Ross +reported that, having reached a commanding hill, he found himself +overlooking a sea of considerable extent to the eastward, and +washing the foot of the hill on which he stood. This sea appeared +to have some islands scattered about it, and was much encumbered +with ice. To the southeastward there seemed to be several openings +between islands, of which the land we stood then upon appeared to +form one, the sea sweeping round to the northward and westward, as +if to join the strait discovered by Captain Lyon. Mr. Ross +described the country over which he passed as much intersected by +lakes, some of them not less than two or three miles in length, +and having in their neighbourhood abundance of grass, moss, and +other fine feeding for the deer. The report of Mr. Ross, +accompanied by an eye-sketch made upon the spot, left no doubt of +the existence of an outlet to the eastward, and enabled me to +decide without hesitation upon attempting the passage of the +narrows with the ships, leaving our subsequent route to be +determined on according to the report of Captain Lyon. + +Piles of stones and the remains of Esquimaux habitations were +everywhere to be seen, and Mr. Ross met with their marks even on +the highest hills; but none appeared of recent date. The reindeer +were here very numerous. Mr. Ross saw above fifty of them in the +course of his walk, and several others were met with near the +tents. A large one was shot by one of the men, who struck the +animal; as he lay on the ground, a blow on the head with the butt +end of his piece, and, leaving him for dead, ran towards the tents +for a knife to bleed and skin him; when the deer very composedly +got on his legs, swam across a lake, and finally escaped. A small +fawn was the only one killed. Three black whales and a few seals +were playing about near the beach. + +Our people being somewhat fatigued with walking, were allowed to +rest till half past one in the morning of the 29th, when, it being +high water, the tents were struck and the boat loaded. I found +that Captain Lyon had returned on board the preceding evening, +having accomplished his object in a shorter time than was +expected. + +That no time might be lost in running the ships through the +narrows, I directed three boats from each to be prepared, for the +purpose of sounding every part of this intricate, and, as yet, +unknown passage, which I named after Captain THOMAS HURD, of the +royal navy, hydrographer to the admiralty. Giving to the officer +commanding each boat a certain portion to accomplish, I reserved +for my own examination the narrowest part of the channel; and at +thirty minutes past one P.M., as soon as the flood tide began to +slacken, we left the ships and continued our work till late at +night, when, having received the reports of the officers, and made +out a plan of the channel for each ship, I directed everything to +be in readiness for weighing at the last quarter of the ebb on the +following morning. Much as I lamented this delay, at a period of +the season when every moment was precious, it will not appear to +have been unnecessary, when it is considered that the channel +through which the ships were to be carried did not in some places +exceed a mile in breadth, with half of that space encumbered with +heavy masses of ice, and with an _ebb_ tide of six knots running +through it. + +At fifteen minutes past three P.M. on the 30th, a light air of +wind springing up from the eastward, we weighed, and, having +warped out by kedges till we had cleared the shoal-point of the +cove, made sail for the channel, and, with the assistance of the +boats, got the Fury into the fair set of the tide before it made +very strong to the eastward. At a quarter before seven, when in +the narrowest part, which is abreast of a bold headland on the +south shore, where the tide was now driving the ice along at the +rate of five or six knots, the wind came in a sudden gust from the +southwest, scarcely allowing us to reduce and trim our sails in +time to keep the ship off the north shore, which is not so safe as +the other. By carrying a heavy press of canvass, however, we +succeeded in forcing through the ice, but the Fury was twice +turned completely round by eddies, and her sails brought aback +against the helm; in consequence of which she gathered such fresh +sternway against several heavy floe-pieces, that I apprehended +some serious injury to the stern-post and rudder, if not to the +whole frame of the ship. The Hecla got through the narrows soon +after us; but Captain Lyon, wishing to bring away the flags and +staves set up as marks, had sent his little boat away for that +purpose during the continuance of the calm weather. When the +breeze suddenly came on she was still absent, and, being obliged +to wait for some time to pick her up, the Hecla was about dusk +separated several miles from us. + +I was sorry to perceive, on the morning of the 1st of September, +that the appearance of the ice was by no means favourable to our +object of sailing to the northward, along the Sturges Bourne +Islands; but at ten A.M., the edge being rather more slack, we +made all sail, with a very light air of southerly wind, and the +weather clear, warm, and pleasant. We were at noon in lat. 66 deg. 03' +35", and in long. 83 deg. 33' 15", in which situation a great deal of +land was in sight to the northward, though apparently much broken +in some places. From N.E. round to S.S.E. there was still nothing +to be seen but one wide sea uninterruptedly covered with ice as +far as the eye could reach. + +At forty-five minutes past one P.M. we had come to the end of the +clear water, and prepared to shorten sail, to await some +alteration in our favour. At this time the weather was so warm +that we had just exposed a thermometer to the sun to ascertain the +temperature of its rays, which could not have been less than 70 deg. +or 80 deg., when a thick fog, which had for some hours been curling +over the hills of Vansittart Island, suddenly came on, creating so +immediate and extreme a change, that I do not remember to have +ever experienced a more chilling sensation. As we could no longer +see a hundred yards around us in any direction, nothing was to be +done but to make the ships fast to the largest piece of ice we +could find, which we accordingly did at two P.M., in one hundred +and fifty-eight fathoms. Just before dark the fog cleared away for +a few minutes, when, perceiving that the wind, which was now +increasing, was likely to drift us too near the islands, we took +advantage of the clear interval to run a mile farther from the +land for the night, where we again made fast to a large floe-piece +in two hundred fathoms. + +The wind, drawing round to the northward and westward, on the +morning of the 2d, increased to a fresh gale, which continued to +blow during the night, notwithstanding which, I was in hopes that +the immense size of the floe to which the ships were attached +would enable us to retain our station tolerably. It was +mortifying, therefore, to find, on the morning of the 2d, that we +had drifted more than I remember ever to have done before in the +same time under any circumstances. It was remarkable, also, that +we had not been set exactly to leeward, but past Baffin Island +towards two remarkable hills on Southampton Island, from which we +were at noon not more than seven or eight leagues distant. Thus, +after a laborious investigation which occupied one month, we had, +by a concurrence of unavoidable circumstances, returned to nearly +the same spot on which we had been on the 6th of August. To +consider what might have been effected in this interval, which +included the very best part of the navigable season, had we been +previously aware of the position and extent of the American +Continent about this meridian, is in itself certainly unavailing; +but it may serve to show the value of even the smallest +geographical information in seas where not an hour must be thrown +away or unprofitably employed. + +In the afternoon an attempt was made to move, for the mere sake, +it must be confessed, of moving and keeping the people on the +alert, rather than with the slightest prospect of gaining any +ground; but, by the time that we had laid out the hawsers, the +small hole of water that had appeared again closed, and we were +obliged to remain as before. + +At four A.M. on the 5th, we cast off and made sail for the land, +with a fresh breeze from the southeast. The ice was closely +packed, against the land near the passage I had intended to try, +and as it appeared slack to the eastward, I determined to run +between the southeast point of Baffin Island and the smaller +islands lying off it. The wind drawing more to the eastward as we +approached the channel, we had several tacks to make in getting +through, but carried a good depth of water on each side, though +its breadth does not exceed three quarters of a mile. As we now +advanced to the northward, we found less and less obstruction, the +main body of the ice having been carried to the southward and +eastward by the late gale, which had in so extraordinary a manner +drifted us in the same direction. This was one of the opportunities +I have before described as the most favourable that ever occur for +making progress in these seas. We had, therefore, a fine run during +the day along the east side of Sturges Bourne Islands; for, having +found the passages between them still choked with ice, we were +obliged to run to the northward with the hope of attaining our +present object, till it was time to look out for an anchorage. +Having first sent the boats to sound, we hauled into a small +bay, where we anchored at dusk in seventeen fathoms, good +holding-ground, though the bottom was so irregular that we had +from five to thirteen close upon our quarter. + +We had now once more approached a part of the coast, of which the +thorough and satisfactory examination could not possibly be +carried on in the ships, without incurring constant and, perhaps, +useless risk, and a certain and serious loss of time. I +determined, therefore, to proceed at once upon this service in two +boats, one from each ship. Having communicated my intentions to +Captain Lyon, and requested him to move the ships, when +practicable, into some more secure situation, I left the Fury, +accompanied by Mr. Ross and Mr. Sherer, taking with us our tents, +blankets, and stove, together with four days' provisions and fuel. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of +Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading +to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in +that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, +being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of +various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land +entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this +Part of the Coast. + + +A thick fog unfortunately coming on just before we left the ships, +prevented us from making choice of any part of the land which +might be the most likely to afford a passage to the northward and +westward. We could only, therefore, direct our course northerly, +with tolerable certainty, by a compass bearing previously taken on +board, and by occasionally obtaining an indistinct glimpse of the +land through the fog. Having rowed four miles, we came to a high +point, round which we turned rather to the westward, and then +landed a little beyond it. + +The tents were struck at thirty minutes past three A.M. on the 7th +and our course directed, up the inlet, the weather being calm and +tolerably clear. At three miles and a quarter we passed on our +starboard hand a point of land, which, from the bright colour of +the rocks, composed chiefly of feldspar, obtained the name of _Red +Point_. + +Opposite to Red Point was a small opening, which we next proposed +to examine. We had not, however, advanced a mile within the +entrance when the boats grounded, the water becoming more and more +shoal within. As it was plain that no passage could here be found +for the ships, which alone it was my present object to discover, I +did not choose to wait for the flowing of the tide to enable us +farther to explore this place, but determined to prosecute our +examination of the other parts of the coast without delay. There +were here a great number of stones placed in an upright position +in every conspicuous spot, many of them looking like men at a +distance. These marks are generally placed without regard to +regularity, but there were here several lines of them about fifty +yards in length, the stones being four or five yards apart, and +each having a smaller one placed on its top. Having rowed out of +the inlet, we landed at six P.M. in a little bay just outside of +the last night's sleeping-place, pitching the tents on a fine +shingly beach, which was the kind of ground we usually looked out +for towards the conclusion of the day, as affording the softest +bed, consistently with dryness, that nature supplies in this +country. Of such a convenience the men were not sorry to avail +themselves, having rowed above thirty miles since the morning. + +The boats were launched at daylight on the 8th, and we soon came +to a much more promising opening on the same shore, about a mile +wide at the entrance, and leading directly to the westward. After +rowing four miles in that direction, we arrived at the mouth of a +bay from three to five miles wide, out of which there did not +appear the least chance of discovering an outlet. As nothing, +however, but rowing round the bay would satisfactorily determine +this, we were proceeding to do so, when we observed in the +northern corner something like a low point overlapping the high +land at the back. Towards this spot we steered, as the readiest +way of completing the circuit of the bay, and half a mile short of +it landed to breakfast. + +In the mean time I sent Mr. Ross to one hill, and ascended another +myself, expecting to save the time and trouble of rowing into the +nook. I was not a little astonished to find, from my own and Mr. +Ross's observations, that there was on the other side of the point +a broad and apparently navigable channel, through which the tide +was setting to the northward, at the rate of three or four miles +an hour. I am thus minute in the discovery of this channel, which +afterward promised to be of no small importance, to show how +nearly such a place may be approached without the slightest +suspicion being entertained of its existence, and the consequent +necessity of _close_ examination wherever a passage is to be +sought for. + +We continued our examination, and I despatched Mr. Sherer to the +ships for a fresh supply of provisions. On his return on the 10th +we proceeded to the westward. In running along the coast with a +fresh and favourable breeze, we observed three persons standing on +a hill, and, as we continued our course, they followed us at full +speed along the rocks. Having sailed into a small sheltered bay, I +went up, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan, to meet them on the hills +above us. In sailing along the shore we had heard them call out +loudly to us, and observed them frequently lift something which +they held in their hands; but, on coming up to them, they remained +so perfectly mute and motionless, that, accustomed as we had been +to the noisy importunities of their more sophisticated brethren, +we could scarcely believe them to be Esquimaux. There was, +besides, a degree of lankness in the faces of the two men, the +very reverse of the plump, round, oily cheeks of those we had +before seen. Their countenances at the time impressed me with the +idea of Indian rather than of Esquimaux features; but this variety +of physiognomy we afterward found not to be uncommon among these +people. The men appeared about forty and twenty-two years of age, +and were accompanied by a good-looking and good-humoured boy of +nine or ten. They each held in their hand a sealskin case or +quiver, containing a bow and three or four arrows, with a set of +which they willingly parted, on being presented with a knife in +exchange. The first looks with which they received us betrayed a +mixture of stupidity and apprehension, but both wore off in a few +minutes on our making them understand that we wished to go to +their habitations. With this request they complied without +hesitation, tripping along before us for above two miles over very +rough ground, and crossing one or two considerable streams running +from a lake into the sea. This they performed with so much +quickness that we could with difficulty keep up with them, though +they good-naturedly stopped now and then till we overtook them. We +were met on our way by two women, from twenty to twenty-five years +of age, having each a child at her back; they too accompanied us +to their tent, which was situated on a high part of the coast +overlooking the sea. It consisted of a rude circular wall of loose +stones, from six to eight feet in diameter and three in height, in +the centre of which stood an upright pole, made of several pieces +of fir-wood lashed together by thongs, and serving as a support to +the deerskins that formed the top covering. Soon after our arrival +we were joined by a good-looking, modest girl of about eight, and +a boy five years old. Of these nine persons, which were all we now +saw, only the elder man and two of the children belonged to this +tent, the habitations of the others being a little more inland. +The faces of the women were round, plump, tattooed, and, in short, +completely Esquimaux. The _kayak_ or canoe belonging to this +establishment was carefully laid on the rocks close to the +seaside, with the paddle and the man's mittens in readiness beside +it. The timbers were entirely of wood, and covered, as usual, with +sealskin. Its length was nineteen feet seven inches, and its +extreme breadth two feet; it was raised a little at each end, and +the rim or gunwale of the circular hole in the middle was high, +and made of whalebone. A handsome sealskin was smoothly laid +within as a seat, and the whole was sewn and put together with +great neatness. The paddle was double, made of fir, and the ends +of the blades tipped with bone, to prevent splitting. + +The fireplace in the tent consisted of three rough stones +carelessly placed on end against one side, and they had several +pots of _lapis ollaris_ for culinary purposes. These people seemed +to us altogether more cleanly than any Esquimaux we had before +seen, both in their persons and in the interior of their tent, in +neither of which could we discover much of that rancid and pungent +smell which is in general so offensive to Europeans. One instance +of their cleanliness which now occurred, deserves, perhaps, to be +noticed, both because this is justly considered rather a rare +quality among Esquimaux, as well as to show in what way they do +sometimes exercise it. When leaving the tent to return to our +boats, I desired one of the seamen to tie the articles we had +purchased into a single bundle, for the convenience of carrying +them; but the elder of the two male Esquimaux, who watched the man +thus employed, would not permit it to be done without excluding a +pot, which, as he explained by wiping the lampblack off with one +of his fingers, would soil a clean sealskin jacket that formed +part of the bundle. + +Among the few domestic utensils we saw in the tent was the woman's +knife of the Greenlanders described by Crantz, and resembling, in +its semicircular shape, that used by shoemakers in England. The +most interesting article, however, was a kind of bowl, exactly +similar to that obtained by Captain Lyon from the natives of +Hudson's Strait, being hollowed out of the root of the musk-ox's +horn. As soon as I took the cup in my hand, the boy who was our +first companion, and had since been our constant attendant, +pronounced the word _oomingmuk_, thus affording an additional +confirmation to that obtained on the former voyage, of the musk-ox +being the animal described by the natives of the west coast of +Greenland as having occasionally, though rarely, been seen in that +country. + +As soon as the Esquimaux became a little more familiar with us, +they repeatedly asked for _sowik_ (iron), in answer to which we +gave them to understand that they must accompany us to our boats if +they wished to obtain any of this precious article. Accordingly, +the whole group set off with us on our return, the males keeping up +with us, and the women a short distance behind. The whole of the +children carried bundles of the branches of ground willow, which +we had just before seen them bring in for their own use, and +which they seemed to consider an article of barter that might be +acceptable to us. As we returned I noticed a quantity of the _ledum +palustre_, and, having plucked some of it, gave it to the boy to +carry; after which, though he very much disliked its smell, he +gathered every root of it that we came to, and deposited it at our +tents. This lad was uncommonly quick and clever in comprehending +our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree of good-humour and +docility which, on our short acquaintance, made him a great +favourite among us. + +We had hitherto been much pleased with our new acquaintance, +who were certainly a good-humoured, decent sort of people. We +therefore loaded them with presents, and endeavoured to amuse them +by showing them the manner of rowing our boats, which were hauled +up on the beach. While the men and children were occupied in +observing this, the women were no less busily employed, near the +tents, in pilfering and conveying into their boots some of our +cups, spoons, and other small articles, such as they could +conveniently secrete. This they accomplished with so much +dexterity, that no suspicion would have been excited of their +dishonesty had not Mr. Sherer fortunately missed a cup which was +required for supper. A general search being instituted in +consequence, and the cargo of the women's boots brought back to +our tents, I directed all our presents to be likewise taken from +the two offenders; and, dismissing the whole party with great +appearance of indignation, thus put an end, for the present, to +our communication with these people. + +We spent the two next days in exploring a creek which we called +CULGRUFF, and another on the opposite or eastern shore, which +received the name of NORMAN'S CREEK, and returned to the Hecla on +the evening of the 14th. + +I learned from Captain Lyon that the Hecla had just anchored at +her present station, the Fury still remaining at the former place, +into which the ice had lately come so thick as to require the +assistance of all hands from both ships to warp and tow the Hecla +out. Proceeding with a fresh boat's crew towards the Fury, which +we found close beset by thick and heavy ice, we succeeded, after +much difficulty, in hauling the boat through it, and arrived on +board at ten P.M. + +As soon as the tide would serve in the offing on the morning of +the 15th, we weighed, and, by means of warping and towing, in +which we were assisted by Captain Lyon's boats, succeeded in +joining the Hecla at her anchorage at three P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the +Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the +Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over +Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented +by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety +Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival +in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in +Winter-quarters. + + +Again leaving the ships on the 15th, we rowed before sunset +between six and seven miles along the high southwestern land, +passing what appeared a small harbour, with an island near the +middle of the entrance, and landed on a shingly beach near a small +bay or creek, extending three quarters of a mile to the W.N.W., +and then terminating in a deep, broad valley. We left the shore at +half past four A.M. on the 16th, and in an hour's sailing, with a +fresh northwest wind, came to some loose ice, through which we +continued to make our way till eleven o'clock, when it became so +close that a passage could no longer be found in any direction. +There was also so much young ice in every small interval between +the loose masses, that the boats were much cut about the +water-line in endeavouring to force through it. In order, +therefore, to avoid the risk of being altogether driven from the +shore, I determined to attempt a passage into the bay, which was +three quarters of a mile distant; and in this, after two hours' +labour, we at length succeeded. Finding that the ice was likely to +prove an obstacle of which we could not calculate the extent or +continuance, we began at once to reduce our daily expenditure of +provisions, in order to meet any contingency. + +Ascending the hill at daylight on the 17th, we were much +disappointed in finding that, though the ice continued to drive a +little to the S.E., it was even more compact than before, the +loose masses through which we had sailed the preceding day being +now closely set together. + +As soon as it was light enough on the 18th to make out the +situation of the ice, which had now drifted considerably to the +southward, we left the bay with a fresh and favourable breeze, and +at a quarter past eight A.M., after a quick run through "sailing +ice," landed to breakfast on the southeast point of this shore, +which afterward received the name CAPE MARTINEAU. Proceeding from +hence with a strong breeze and a considerable sea ahead, but the +flood tide still running slowly with us to the N.W., we rowed +several miles close along the shore, and entered at dusk a little +cove, where the tents were pitched and the boats moored for the +night. + +The night being cold, clear, and nearly calm, a quantity of +"bay-ice," half an inch in thickness, had, on the morning of the +19th, formed in the cove, and for some distance outside of it, +which again cut the boats' planks very much, besides occasioning +great loss of time in getting through it. This symptom of +approaching winter, which had now for the first time occurred to +us, rendered it expedient in future to select the most open +beaches for our resting-places at night. After tracing every bend +of the shore which here occurred, we landed at the point called by +Captain Lyon POINT FARHILL, and, ascending the hill to take +angles, obtained a view of Gore Bay, easily recognising every +other feature of the lands discovered by Captain Lyon. A mile or +two of coast was now all that remained to be examined, in order to +determine the connexion of Gore Bay with the rest of the land +recently explored. Proceeding, therefore, as soon as our +observations were finished, we soon after entered the bay, and in +the course of an hour had satisfied ourselves on this point. + +The ice remained closely packed on the 21st, as far as we could +see along shore, so that we were still detained in the same place. +Some snow which fell in the course of the preceding night, lightly +powdering the land, had entirely disappeared before evening, +except in places having a northern aspect, where it now +permanently remained for the winter. + +On the morning of the 22d the ice was not only as close as ever, +but had forced its way much higher up towards Gore Bay. A party +was therefore sent out to endeavour to procure game farther +inland; and another employed in gathering ground-willow, which was +here abundant and in good condition for fuel. Two bears, a female +and her cub, being probably attracted by the smell of our cooking, +came towards the tents upon the ice, but, upon hearing our voices, +set off in the opposite direction. A good deal of snow fell in +partial showers in the course of the day; it was nearly of that +fine kind which usually falls during the winter of these regions, +but we had flake snow and even light rain some days after this. +The snow, however, now remained undissolved upon the land in all +situations. Our hunting party returned late in the evening without +success, having merely seen a number of reindeer, which the want +of cover prevented their approaching. Seven days out of the nine +for which we were victualled having now elapsed, a party was +selected for walking over to the ships on the following day, +should the ice still continue in its present state. + +The ice continuing in the same state, we commenced our work at +break of day on the 24th, and in three journeys had carried all +the lighter part of our baggage over land by eleven o'clock. All +hands then returned for the two boats, across the gunwales of +which the masts and oars were lashed for lifting them, the ground +not allowing us to drag them except for a short space here and +there. By half past one the first boat had been carried over, and, +by the unwearied exertions of the officers and men, we had the +satisfaction of launching the second before four o'clock, the +distance being a mile and a half, and chiefly over rocky and +uneven ground. As soon as we had dined, the boats were reloaded; +and at five o'clock we left the shore. A quantity of ice was still +aground upon the shoals and islets off Cape Martineau, through +which, however, we fortunately found a passage before dark, when, +having cleared every obstacle, we sailed in an open sea and with a +fresh breeze to the northward. Keeping close along the shore to +avoid missing the ships in the dark, our first musket was +immediately answered by a blue-light; and, being guided by the +lights now shown by the ships, we arrived at nine P.M., where we +found that our late detention had excited some alarm for our +safety. + +On the 1st of October some small rain fell, which, immediately +freezing, made the decks and ropes as smooth and slippery as if +coated with glass; the thermometer had for several days past +permanently fallen below the freezing point, and sometimes as low +as 20 deg. at night; which change, together with the altered +appearance of the land, and the rapid formation of young ice near +the shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach of winter. +The commencement of this dreary season in these regions may, +indeed, be fairly dated from the time when the earth no longer +receives and radiates heat enough to melt the snow which falls +upon it. When the land is once covered with this substance, so +little calculated to favour the absorption of heat, the frigorific +process seems to be carried on with increased vigour, defining +very clearly the change from summer to winter, with little or no +immediate interval to which the name of autumn can be distinctly +assigned. + +We passed Cape Edwards on the 6th; but on the 8th the formation of +young ice upon the surface of the water began most decidedly to +put a stop to the navigation of these seas, and warned us that the +season of active operations was nearly at an end. + +When to the ordinary difficulties which the navigation of the +Polar Seas presents were superadded the disadvantages of a +temperature at or near _zero_, its necessary concomitant the young +ice, and twelve hours of darkness daily, it was impossible any +longer to entertain a doubt of the expediency of immediately +placing the ships in the best security that could be found for +them during the winter, rather than run the risk of being +permanently detached from the land by an endeavour to regain the +continent. We were in hopes of receiving effectual shelter from +the numerous grounded masses, but could only find berths within +one of them in five to six fathoms water. We now, for the first +time, _walked_ on board the ships; and, before night, had them +moved into their places, by sawing a canal for two or three +hundred yards through the ice. The average thickness of the new +floe was already three inches and a quarter; but being in some +places much less, several officers and men fell in, and, from the +difficulty of getting a firm place to rest on, narrowly escaped a +more serious inconvenience than a thorough wetting. The whole +sheet of ice, even in those parts which easily bore a man's +weight, had a waving motion under the feet, like that of leather +or any other tough flexible substance set afloat, a property which +is, I believe, peculiar to salt-water ice. + +In reviewing the events of this our first season of navigation, and +considering what progress we had made towards the accomplishment of +our main object, it was impossible, however trifling that progress +might appear upon the chart, not to experience considerable +satisfaction. Small as our actual advance had been towards +Behring's Strait, the extent of coast newly discovered and minutely +explored in pursuit of our object, in the course of the last eight +weeks, amounted to more than two hundred leagues, nearly half of +which belonged to the Continent of North America. This service, +notwithstanding our constant exposure to the risks which intricate, +shoal, and unknown channels, a sea loaded with ice, and a rapid +tide concurred in presenting, had providentially been effected +without injury to the ships, or suffering to the officers and men; +and we had now once more met with tolerable security for the +season. Above all, however, I derived the most sincere satisfaction +from a conviction of having left no part of the coast from Repulse +Bay eastward in a state of doubt as to its connexion with the +continent. And as the mainland now in sight from the hills extended +no farther to the eastward than about a N.N.E. bearing, we ventured +to indulge a sanguine hope of our being very near the northeastern +boundary of America, and that the early part of the next season +would find us employing our best efforts in pushing along its +northern shores. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And +for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of +Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory +and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the +Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora +Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological +Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821. + + +Our operations at sea being now at an end for the season, my chief +attention was directed to the security of the ships, and to the +various internal arrangements which experience suggested as +necessary for the preservation of cleanliness, health, and comfort +during the winter, as well as for the economical expenditure of +provisions, fuel, and other stores. + +The situation which circumstances obliged us to put up with for +our winter-quarters was by no means as secure as could have been +wished. The bay, though as fine a roadstead as could have been +desired if situated in a more temperate climate, was still only a +roadstead; and, being entirely open to the south, was exposed to a +pressure from the ice in that direction, unless the solid floe now +about to be formed round the ships should shortly become +sufficient to guard them from external injury. There was some +reason, however, to doubt the efficacy of this protection; for, as +the spring-tides approached, the numerous grounded masses around +the shores of the bay began to evince symptoms of instability, one +or two having fallen over, and others turned round; so that these +masses might be looked upon rather as dangerous neighbours, likely +to create a premature disruption of the ice, than as the means of +security, which, in seas not subject to any considerable rise of +tide, they had so often proved to us on former occasions. To +these circumstances was added our uncertainty whether very high +tides during the winter might not crack the ice, thereby exposing +the ships to the double danger of being "nipped" about their +water-line, and of being drifted out of the bay by northerly gales. +That which was, however, perhaps the most to be apprehended, was +the possibility of the ships being forced into shoal water, without +detaching themselves from the mass of ice cemented to their bends, +the weight of which, hanging upon the sides of a ship left aground +by the tide, could not but produce very serious injury. + +About the time of our arrival in the bay, when the thermometer had +fallen nearly to _zero_, the condensation of vapour upon the beams +of the lower deck, and in the cabins near the hatchways, commenced +just as it had done at a similar temperature before. To remedy +this evil, no time was lost in lighting a fire in the warming-stove +upon the orlop-deck, everything being previously moved from its +neighbourhood that was likely to create danger. The iron tanks in +the main hatchway were laid bare on the top, and the interstices +between them filled with sand, to form a secure platform in front +of the fire; and the sailroom, bulkheads, and stancheons covered +with sheet copper. Four steady men, of whom one was a petty +officer, were appointed to attend the fire in regular watches, +being made responsible for the due expenditure of the fuel, and +for the safety of everything about the stove. They had likewise +particular charge of the fire-engine, buckets, and two tanks of +water, all of which were kept in the hatchway in constant readiness +in case of accidents. In addition to these precautions, some +general regulations were established for stationing the officers +and men in the event of fire; and a hole was directed to be kept +open in the ice alongside each ship, to ensure at all times a +sufficient supply of water. In twelve hours after lighting the +stove not a drop of moisture remained. + +The regulations for the maintenance of due cleanliness among the +ships' companies were principally the same as those established on +the preceding voyage. As a source of rational amusement to the +men, soon after our arrival I proposed to Captain Lyon and the +officers of both ships once more to set on foot a series of +theatrical entertainments, from which so much benefit in this way +had, on a former occasion, been derived. This proposal was +immediately and unanimously acquiesced in; Captain Lyon obligingly +undertook to be our, manager, and, some preparation having been +made for this purpose previous to leaving England, everything was +soon arranged for performing a play on board the Fury once a +fortnight. + +To furnish rational and useful occupation to the men on the other +evenings, a school was also established for the instruction of +such of the men as were willing to take advantage of this +opportunity of learning to read and write, or of improving in +those acquirements. + +While these internal arrangements were making, the interests of +science were not neglected. A day or two after our arrival, Mr. +Fisher and myself selected a spot for the portable observatory, +which was immediately erected for the purpose of making magnetic +observations; and, as soon as the carpenters could be spared from +the necessary duties of the ships, a house was built for the +reception of the instruments requisite in conducting the other +observations and experiments. + +Soon after our arrival here, Captain Lyon expressed a wish that +his officers and men, with himself, should attend divine service +on board the Fury during the continuance of the ships in +winter-quarters. This arrangement was accordingly made, and we +formed one congregation for the rest of the winter. Our lower deck +afforded abundance of accommodation in this respect; some psalm +tunes, which had been purposely set upon an organ, were played at +the proper intervals of the service, and our little church formed +a pleasing and interesting scene to such as are disposed to be +interested by scenes of this nature. + +I have before mentioned the myriads of small shrimps (_cancer +nugax_) which for some weeks past had been observed near the +surface of the sea. These insects were found to be still as +numerous as ever in any hole we made in the ice; and such was the +extreme avidity with which they immediately seized upon any meat +put overboard, to thaw or soak for the sake of freshness, that +Captain Lyon to-day sent me a goose to look at, belonging to the +officers of the Hecla, that had been thus deposited within their +reach only eight and forty hours, and from which they had eaten +every ounce of meat, leaving only a skeleton most delicately +cleaned. Our men had before remarked that their meat suffered +unusual loss of substance by soaking, but did not know to what +cause to attribute the deficiency. We took advantage, however, of +the hunger of these depredators to procure complete skeletons of +small animals, for preservation as anatomical specimens, enclosing +them in a net or bag with holes, to which the shrimps could have +access, but which prevented the loss of any of the limbs, should +the cartilage of the joints be eaten. For want of this latter +precaution some specimens were at first rendered imperfect. + +A pair of snow-boots were now issued _gratis_ to each individual +in the expedition, being part of a stock of extra warm clothing +liberally furnished by government, to be supplied to the officers +and men at my discretion, as occasion should require. These boots +were made of strong drab cloth, with thick soles of cork, the +slowly conducting property of which substance, together with their +large size, allowing a free circulation to the blood, afforded the +utmost comfort that could be desired. Boots or shoes of _leather_ +never retain the warmth long, under circumstances of very severe +exposure. + +The wind veering to the S.E. on the 24th and 25th, the thermometer +gradually rose to +23 deg. I may possibly incur the charge of +affectation in stating that this temperature was much too high to +be agreeable to us; but it is nevertheless the fact, that +everybody felt and complained of the change. We had often before +remarked, that considerable alterations in the temperature of the +atmosphere are as sensibly felt by the human frame at a very low +part of the scale, as in the higher. The difference consists only +in this, that a change from -40 deg. upward to about _zero_ is usually +a very welcome one, while from _zero_ to the freezing point, as in +the instance just alluded to, it becomes, to persons in our +situation, rather an inconvenience than otherwise. This may be +more readily imagined by considering that our clothing, bedding, +fires, and other precautions against the severity of the climate +having been once adapted to a low degree of cold, an increase of +temperature renders them oppressive and inconvenient; while any +reduction (of the first two, at least) is impracticable with +safety. To this must be added, that at this temperature the snow +becomes too soft for convenient walking, and the accumulation of +ice in the crevices and linings of the officers' cabins is +converted into a source of extreme annoyance, which, while it +continues solid, is never experienced. It is true that these +inconveniences occur in a much greater degree in the spring; but +being then hailed as the harbingers of the return of permanent +warmth, it is easy to obviate some, and would be hard to complain +of any of them. + +_Nov. 6._--For several days about this period the weather +continued remarkably mild, the thermometer generally rising as +high as from +20 deg. to +28 deg. in the course of the day, from the 6th +to the 16th. Most of our necessary arrangements for the security +of the ships and stores during the winter being now completed, the +people were employed in what they called "rigging the theatre," +and on the evening of the 9th the officers performed the play of +the "Rivals," to the infinite amusement of both ships' companies. + +On the 1st of December there was a space of many miles in which +none of the "old ice" was visible. The sea was here for the most +part covered with a very thin sheet of "young" ice, probably the +formation of a single day, since the westerly wind had driven the +'floes' off the land. The whole of this was in motion with the +tide, which, breaking the thin floes, left several spaces of clear +water. It was observable that, though a considerable frost-smoke +arose from the young ice, it was not so dense as that from the +clear water, immediately over every pool of which a little thick +cloud floated, corresponding as well in size as in situation with +the pond from whence it issued. A number of dovekies were swimming +about the point; and it being desirable, if possible, to obtain +some of them for the sake of ascertaining their plumage at this +season, we hauled the small boat over and launched her. Mr. Ross +succeeded in killing one of the birds, which was preserved as a +specimen, but it was with great difficulty that the boat avoided +being carried away from the shore by the young ice. I was, on this +account, afraid of repeating the attempt during the rest of the +winter. One grouse was seen on shore; it appeared entirely white, +except having its tail black near the tip. + +I was this day under the necessity of closing in my stern +dead-lights, and fixing cork shutters between the double +window-frames of my cabin, the temperature having lately fallen +rather low at night; in consequence of which, one of the +chronometers had stopped on the 26th of November. We had before +this time banked the snow up against the sides; but it was now +thrown higher, and its thickness at the bottom increased to about +four feet. Besides this, a bed of snow, three feet deep, was +subsequently laid on the deck over my cabin, and also on the +forecastle over the sick-bay, to assist in retaining the warmth in +those parts of the ship; an office which it seemed to perform very +effectually. It was impossible, however, as the cold increased, to +keep up a tolerably comfortable temperature in the cabin if the +fire was suffered to go out for several hours: for instance, the +night after the above arrangements had been made, the fire was out +for only six hours; and the consequence was, that the thermometer +fell to 27 deg., and could be got no higher on the following day, in +the after part of the cabin, though only nine feet from the stove, +than 33 deg. This was, indeed, a most inclement day, the temperature +of the atmosphere having for the first time fallen to -27 deg., +accompanied by a fresh wind from the northward and westward. + +A great squeezing of the young floes took place at the S.E. point +of the island on the 12th. The noise it makes when heard at a +distance very much resembles that of a heavy wagon labouring over +a deep gravelly road; but, when a nearer approach is made, it is +more like the growling of wild animals, for which it was in one or +two instances mistaken. It was, however, rather useful than +otherwise, to encourage the belief that bears were abroad, as, +without some such idea, people are apt to become careless about +going armed. + +The thermometer rising to -5 deg. in the course of the 17th, the +weather appeared warm to our feelings. It proved favourable also +for another play, which had been fixed for this night, and the +"Poor Gentleman" was performed by the officers in so admirable and +feeling a manner as to excite uncommon interest among the men, and +to convince me more than ever of the utility of our theatrical +amusements. The 18th was a remarkably clear day, without any of +that cloudiness which usually hung about the southern horizon. The +sun was therefore clearly visible at noon, when such was its oval +shape that its horizontal diameter exceeded the vertical by 4' +07". We had light in the cabin for reading and writing for three +hours and a quarter without candles, and about five hours for +convenient walking. + +On the evening of the 24th, being Christmas eve, the ships' +companies were amused by the officers performing the two farces of +"A Roland for an Oliver," and the "Mayor of Garratt." On Christmas +day, divine service on board the Fury was attended by the officers +and crews of both ships. A certain increase was also made in the +allowance of provisions, to enable the people to partake of +Christmas festivities to the utmost extent which our situation and +means would allow; and the day was marked by the most cheerful +hilarity, accompanied by the utmost regularity and good order. +Among the luxuries which our Christmas dinner afforded was that of +a joint of English roast beef, of which a few quarters had been +preserved for such occasions by rubbing the outside with salt, and +hanging it on deck covered with canvass. The low latitude in which +our last summer's navigation was performed would have rendered its +preservation doubtful without the salt. + +On the arrival of the last day of the year, it was impossible not +to experience very high gratification in observing the excellent +health and spirits enjoyed by almost every officer and man in both +ships. The only invalid in the expedition was Reid, our +carpenter's mate, and even he was at this period so much improved, +that very sanguine hopes were entertained of his continued +amendment. In consequence of the effectual manner in which the men +were clothed, particularly about the feet, not a single frostbite +had occurred that required medical assistance even for a day; and, +what was more important to us, not a scorbutic symptom had +appeared. + +To increase our ordinary issue of anti-scorbutics, liberal as it +already was, we had from the commencement of the winter adopted a +regular system of growing mustard and cress, which the superior +warmth of the ships now enabled us to do on a larger scale than +before. Each mess, both of the officers and ships' company, was +for this purpose furnished with a shallow box filled with mould, +in which a crop could generally be raised in from eight to ten +days. The quantity thus procured on board the Fury now amounted to +about fifty pounds' weight, and before the arrival of spring to +nearly one hundred pounds; and, trifling as such a supply may +appear to those who are in the habit of being more abundantly +furnished, it will not be considered to have been without its use, +when it is remembered how complete a specific for the scurvy +_fresh_ vegetable substance has invariably proved. + +With respect to the occupations which engaged our time, during +this season of unavoidable inactivity, I can add little or nothing +to my former account of the manner in which we passed the winter +at Melville Island; for the two situations were so nearly similar, +and our resources necessarily so limited in this way, that it was +not easy to produce much variety in the employment of them. It may +be imagined, and was, indeed, anticipated by ourselves, that want +of novelty was on the present occasion a disadvantage likely to +render our confinement more tedious than before; but this by no +means appeared to be the case: for the men, sufficient employment +may always be found to prevent the possibility of their being +idle; and I have already noticed the auxiliaries to which we had +recourse to assist in promoting this end; while most officers have +resources within themselves, of which scarcely any situation or +circumstances can divest them. What with reading, writing, making +and calculating observations, observing the various natural +phenomena, and taking the exercise necessary to preserve our +health, nobody, I believe, ever felt any symptoms of _ennui_ +during our continuance in winter-quarters. + +Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratification to +several among us, I may mention the musical parties we were +enabled to muster, and which assembled on stated evenings +throughout the winter, alternately in Captain Lyon's cabin and my +own. More skilful amateurs in music might well have smiled at +these our humble concerts; but it will not incline them to think +less of the science they admire, to be assured that, in these +remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished +us with the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was +capable of affording: for, independently of the mere gratification +afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, scarcely a person +in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not +more or less connected with "his far distant home." + +With our time thus occupied, our comforts so abundant, and the +prospect to seaward so enlivening, it would, indeed, have been our +own faults had we felt anything but enjoyment in our present +state, and the most lively hopes and expectations for the future. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial +Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and +Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First +Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want +of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a +Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the +Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena +till the End of February, 1822. + + +The first day of the new year was a very severe one in the open +air, the thermometer being down to -22 deg., and the wind blowing +strong from the northwest. The effect of a breeze upon the +feelings is well known to every person, even in comparatively +temperate climates, but at low temperatures it becomes painful and +almost insupportable. Thus, with the thermometer at -55 deg., and no +wind stirring, the hands may remain uncovered for ten minutes or a +quarter of an hour without inconvenience; while, with a fresh +breeze, and the thermometer nearly as high as _zero_, few people +can keep them exposed so long without considerable pain. + +About noon on the 2d, Captain Lyon observed a considerable body of +snow taken up by the wind and whirled round in a spiral form like +that of a water-spout, though with us the breeze was quite light +at the time. It increased gradually in size till lost behind the +southeast point. As a proof of the difficulty which the hares must +find in obtaining subsistence during the winter, these animals +were at this time in the habit of coming alongside the ships upon +the ice to pick up what they could from our rubbish-heaps. A fox +or two still entered the traps occasionally, and our gentlemen +informed me that they had always been most successful in catching +them after a southerly wind, which they attributed, with great +probability, to the smell of the ships being thus more extensively +communicated over the island. One or two of these poor creatures +had been found in the traps with their tongues almost bitten in +two. The traps made use of for catching these beautiful little +animals were formed of a small cask, having a sliding door like +that of a common mouse-trap, and were baited with oiled meat or +blubber. The whole number caught during the winter was between +eighty and ninety, of which more than seventy were taken before +the end of December. In a single trap of Captain Lyon's, no less +than fifteen were caught in the course of four hours, on the night +of the 25th of November; and the people engaged in watching the +trap remarked, that no sooner had one of these animals been taken +out, and they themselves retired a few yards, than another entered +it. So stupid, indeed, are they in this respect, that, in several +instances, those which had escaped from the ships entered, and +were recaught in the same traps as before. + +_Jan. 14._--An ermine, of which the tracks had been traced the +preceding day up the Hecla's stern, and even on board her, Captain +Lyon to-day succeeded in catching in a trap. This beautiful +creature was entirely white, except a black brush to its tail, and +a slight tinge of the usual sulphur or straw colour on the root of +the tail, and also on the fore part of the fore legs. The little +animal being put into a convenient cage, seemed soon to feel +himself perfectly at home, eating, drinking, and sleeping +without any apparent apprehension, but evincing a very decided +determination to resent a too near approach to the wires of his new +habitation. + +_Jan. 18._--At a late hour this evening the stovepipe of my cabin +caught fire, which gave us a momentary alarm, but, buckets and +water being at hand, it was soon extinguished. This accident was +occasioned by a quantity of soot collected in the stovepipe, and +yet was not altogether to be attributed to neglect in the persons +appointed to sweep the whole of them twice a week. As the cause of +it is such as is not likely to be anticipated by persons living in +temperate climates, and as the knowledge of it may be serviceable +to somebody destined for a cold one, I shall here explain it. The +smoke of coals contains a certain quantity of water in the state +of vapour. This, in temperate climates, and, indeed, till the +thermometer falls to about 10 deg. below _zero_, is carried up the +chimney and principally diffused in the atmosphere. When the cold +becomes more intense, however, this is no longer the case; for the +vapour is then condensed into water before it can escape from the +stovepipes, within which a mass of ice is, in consequence, very +speedily formed.[*] The vapour thus arrested must necessarily also +detain a quantity of soot, which, being subsequently enclosed in +the ice as the latter accumulates, the brush generally used to +clean the pipes cannot bring it away. By any occasional increase +of temperature, either in the external air or in the fire below, +the ice sometimes thaws, pouring down a stream of water into the +fire, and bringing with it a most pungent and oppressive smell of +soot. For these reasons, as well as to avoid accidents of the +nature above alluded to, it is necessary to sweep the pipes much +more frequently than in warmer climates, and even occasionally to +thaw the ice out of them by a fire made expressly for the purpose. + +[Footnote: When the weather was not very severely cold, and a part +of the vapour escaped from the pipe of the galley-fire, the +fore-rigging was always coated with ice, from the smoke passing by +it.] + +On the morning of the 1st of February it was reported to me that a +number of strange people were seen to the westward, coming towards +the ships over the ice. On directing a glass towards them we found +them to be Esquimaux, and also discovered some appearance of huts +on shore, at the distance of two miles from the ships, in the same +direction. I immediately set out, accompanied by Captain Lyon, an +officer from each ship, and two of the men, to meet the natives, +who, to the number of five-and-twenty, were drawn up in a line +abreast, and still advanced slowly towards us. As we approached +nearer they stood still, remaining, as before, in a compact line, +from which they did not move for some time after we reached them. +Nothing could exceed their quiet and orderly behaviour on this +occasion, which presented a very striking contrast with the noisy +demeanour of the natives of Hudson's Strait. They appeared at a +distance to have arms in their hands; but what we had taken for +bows or spears proved to be only a few blades of whalebone, which +they had brought either as a peace-offering or for barter, and +which we immediately purchased for a few small nails and beads. +Some of the women, of whom there were three or four, as well as +two children, in this party, having handsome clothes on which +attracted our attention, they began, to our utter astonishment and +consternation, to strip, though the thermometer stood at 23 deg. below +zero. We soon found, however, that there was nothing so dreadful +in this as we at first imagined, every individual among them +having on a complete double suit. The whole were of deerskin, and +looked both clean and comfortable. + +However quietly the Esquimaux had awaited our approach, and still +continued to conduct themselves, there was as little apprehension +or distrust visible in their countenances or manner as it was +possible for one strange set of persons to evince on meeting +another. As soon, therefore, as we had bought all that they had to +sell, and made them a number of valuable presents, we expressed by +signs our wish to accompany them to their huts, with which they +willingly complied, and we immediately set out together. On our +way the Esquimaux were much amused by our dogs, especially by a +large one of the Newfoundland breed, that had been taught to fetch +and carry; a qualification which seemed to excite unbounded +astonishment; and the children could scarce contain themselves for +joy when Captain Lyon gave them a stick to throw for the dog to +bring back to them. A child of five or six years old, thus amusing +itself, on such a day and in such a climate, formed by no means +the least characteristic figure of our motley group. An old and +infirm man, supported by a stick, which, indeed, he much needed, +was soon left behind us, his companions seeming to take no notice +of his infirmities, and leaving him without reluctance or apology +to find his way home at his own pace. When we had approached the +huts within a few hundred yards, three of the Esquimaux went on +before us, having previously explained that they were going to +confine their dogs, lest, being frightened at our coming, they +should run away. + +When it is remembered that these habitations were fully within +sight of the ships, and how many eyes were continually on the +look-out among us for anything that could afford variety or +interest in our present situation, our surprise may in some degree +be imagined at finding an establishment of five huts, with canoes, +sledges, dogs, and above sixty men, women, and children, as +regularly and, to all appearance, as permanently fixed as if they +had occupied the same spot for the whole winter. If the first view +of the exterior of this little village was such as to create +astonishment, that feeling was in no small degree heightened, on +accepting the invitation soon given us to enter these extraordinary +houses, in the construction of which we observed that not a single +material was used but snow and ice. After creeping through two +low passages, having each its arched doorway, we came to a small +circular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. +From this three doorways, also arched, and of larger dimensions +than the outer ones, led into as many inhabited apartments, one on +each side, and the other facing us as we entered. The interior of +these presented a scene no less novel than interesting. The women +were seated on the beds at the sides of the huts, each having her +little fireplace or lamp with all her domestic utensils about her; +the children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs, except the +female ones, which were indulged with a part of the beds, slunk out +past us in dismay. The construction of this inhabited part of the +huts was similar to that of the outer apartment, being a dome +formed by separate blocks of snow, laid with great regularity and +no small art, each being cut into the shape requisite to form a +substantial arch, from seven to eight feet high in the centre, and +having no support whatever but what this principle of building +supplied. I shall not here farther describe the peculiarities +of these curious edifices, remarking only that a cheerful and +sufficient light was admitted to them by a circular window of ice +neatly fitted into the roof of each apartment. + +We found our new acquaintance as desirous of pleasing us as we +were ready to be pleased; so that we were soon on good terms with +them all. While we were engaged in examining every part of their +huts, their whole behaviour was in the highest degree orderly, +respectful, and good-humoured. They eagerly received the various +articles that were given them, either in exchange for their own +commodities or as presents, but on no occasion importuned us for +anything, nor did the well-known sound of "pilletay" once escape +from them. We had also great reason to believe that these people +possessed, in no ordinary degree, the quality of honesty; a +quality the more desirable to us, as we had on shore, besides the +house and observatory, all our boats and other articles, which, +had they been disposed to pilfer, it would have required all our +vigilance to guard. If we dropped a glove or a handkerchief +without knowing it, they would immediately direct our attention to +it by pointing; and if the owner had left the hut before they +discovered it, would run out after him to return it. Numberless +instances of a similar kind occurred in the course of our +subsequent communication with them, some of which I shall +hereafter have an opportunity of relating. + +After remaining with them a couple of hours, and proposing to +spend the following day among them, we set out on our return to +the ships. Being desirous of trying their disposition to part with +their children, I proposed to buy a fine lad, named _Toolooak_, +for the very valuable consideration of a handsome butcher's knife. +His father, apparently understanding our meaning, joyfully +accepted the knife, and the boy ran into the hut to fetch his +mittens, which seemed to be all that he cared for in leaving his +home. He then set off with us in high spirits, and at first +assisted in drawing a sledge we had purchased to carry our things; +but as he began, by our additional signs, more clearly to +comprehend our true meaning, he gradually relaxed in his zeal to +accompany our party, and, being afterward overtaken by a number of +his companions, he took an opportunity to slink off among some +hummocks of ice, so that, when we arrived on board, Toolooak was +missing. + +On our reaching the ships, these people expressed much less +surprise and curiosity than might naturally have been expected on +their first visit, which may, perhaps, in some measure, be +attributed to their being in reality a less noisy kind of people +than most of the Esquimaux to whom we had before been accustomed. +Quiet and orderly, however, as they were disposed to be, this +first visit showed them to be as fond of merriment as their +countrymen are usually considered; for, on Captain Lyon's ordering +his fiddler up on the Hecla's deck, they danced with the men for +an hour, and then returned in high glee and good-humour to their +huts. + +On our return on board we were informed that, during our absence +in the morning, a flock of thirteen wolves, the first yet seen, +crossed the ice in the bay from the direction of the huts, and +passed near the ships. These animals, as we afterward learned, had +accompanied or closely followed the Esquimaux on their journey to +the island the preceding day, and they proved to us the most +troublesome part of their _suite_. They so much resemble the +Esquimaux dogs, that, had it not been for some doubt among the +officers who had seen them whether they were so or not, and the +consequent fear of doing these poor people an irreparable injury, +we might have killed most of them the same evening, for they came +boldly to look for food within a few yards of the Fury, and +remained there for some time. + +In order to prevent our people from occasioning the Esquimaux any +disturbance or apprehension, I directed that only six from each +ship should be allowed to visit the huts at one time, and that +they should then be always accompanied by an officer. A strict +prohibition was, at the same time, issued against the smallest +article of the ships' stores being given to the people without +permission, on pain of severe punishment. + +At an early hour on the 2d we set out, with a large party, on our +proposed excursion to the huts. The natives received us with great +cordiality, though with somewhat more noisy expressions of +pleasure than before; and we soon began a more minute examination +of their habitations and furniture, in which they readily assisted +us, except that they always sat very closely on the deerskins +which composed their beds, under which were stowed such articles +as they were least willing or able to dispose of. They sold, +however, a great number of their things without reluctance; and it +was, indeed, astonishing to see with what eagerness they would, +for the mere sake of change and variety, barter some of their most +indispensable articles for the veriest trifles in our possession. +For instance, a single sewing-needle, of which they possessed +abundance not much inferior to our own, procured from them a +large, well-sharpened _p=anna_, or man's knife, made of stout +iron, for which, in point of absolute utility, a hundred needles +would not have been a fair equivalent. Various other instances of +the same kind occurred, by which, indeed, they were not ultimately +losers, though they certainly would have been so had our +intercourse ended here. + +We dined in the huts, and the Esquimaux gladly partook of our +biscuit and meat, and even of a little wine, which, however, they +did not relish. We returned on board about sunset, much gratified +with the interesting day we had passed; having laid the foundation +of that perfect confidence and good understanding which, with +little or no interruption, afterward subsisted between us and our +new acquaintance. + +On the morning of the 3d, a number of these people were observed +to set off over the ice to the southwest, to bring, as we +conjectured, either some more of their people or of their property +from their last place of abode. On walking out to the huts after +divine service, however, we found they had been seal-catching, and +had succeeded in taking four. The very small quantity of food +which they had in their huts at first coming, consisting of a +little venison, and the flesh and blubber of the whale and seal, +induced us to suppose they had left some of their provision +behind, and that they would return for it as occasion demanded. +But we now found that even at this rigorous season they were +entirely dependant in this way on their daily exertions, and they +had only removed into their present quarters on account of the +failure of their summer's store, and of the greater facility of +obtaining seals at Winter Island than where the sea was more +closely and continually frozen. + +On the 4th a number of Esquimaux came to the ships, and we took +the opportunity of getting them to go through the process of +building a snow hut for our amusement and information. From the +quickness with which they completed this, our surprise at the +sudden appearance of their village ceased; as we now saw that two +or three hours would be more than sufficient to complete the whole +establishment just as we at first found it. They were then taken +on board, and derived great amusement from our organ, and from +anything in the shape of music, singing, or dancing, of all which +they are remarkably fond. Nor can I here omit a striking instance +of the honesty of these people which occurred to-day. Some of the +gentlemen of the Hecla had purchased two of their dogs, which had +the preceding evening made their escape and returned to the huts. +After the departure of the Esquimaux to-day, we were surprised to +find that they had left two dogs carefully tied up on board the +Fury, which, on inquiry, proved to be the animals in question, and +which had been thus faithfully restored to their rightful owners. + +On the 5th a number of the natives came on board, according to +promise, to rebuild the hut in a more substantial manner, and to +put a plate of ice into the roof, as a window, which they did with +great quickness as well as care, several of the women cheerfully +assisting in the labour. The men seemed to take no small pride in +showing in how expeditious and workmanlike a manner they could +perform this; and the hut, with its outer passage, was soon +completed. From this time they were in the constant habit of +coming freely to the ships; and such as it was not always +convenient to admit usually found very profitable employment in +examining the heaps of ashes, sand, and other rubbish on the +outside, where their trouble was well repaid by picking up small +scraps of tin or iron. All that they found in this manner we +allowed them to consider as their lawful property; but were very +particular in preventing their handling anything on board without +permission. + +The wolves had now begun to do us some damage; for not even the +sails that were fastened round the house and observatory could +escape their ravenous fangs, and they had thus, in the course of a +single night, much injured two of our studding-sails. We set traps +for them on the ice, and also large shark-hooks, secured with +chains and baited with meat; but the former they entered and +destroyed, and the latter was always found broken or bent, without +securing the depredators. These animals were indeed so hungry and +fearless as to take away some of the Esquimaux dogs in a +snow-house near the Hecla's stern, though the men were at the time +within a few yards of them. + +From the circumstance of Captain Lyon and myself having +accidentally gone into different huts on our first visits to the +village (for by this name I believe we must venture to dignify the +united abodes of more than sixty human beings), particular +individuals among the Esquimaux had already, in a manner, attached +themselves to each of us. Captain Lyon now informed me that one of +his acquaintance, a remarkably fine and intelligent young man, +named _=Ay~ok~et_, had given him to understand that he had +somewhere or other seen _Kabloona_[*] people like ourselves only a +few months ago. This being the case, there seemed no reason why, +if it were made worth his while, he should not be able to see them +again in the course of next summer. Anxious to profit by this +unexpected mode of communication, I requested Captain Lyon to +endeavour to direct Ayoket's attention to the scheme of conveying +a letter from us to the persons of whom he spoke. + +[Footnote: European.] + +On the 7th I paid another visit to the huts, where I found +scarcely anybody but women and children, the whole of the men, +with the exception of the two oldest, having gone on a sealing +excursion to the northeastern side of the island. One of the +women, named _Il=igliuk_, a sister of the lad Toolooak, who +favoured us with a song, struck us as having a remarkably soft +voice, an excellent ear, and a great fondness for singing, for +there was scarcely any stopping her when she had once begun. We +had, on their first visit to the ships, remarked this trait in +Iligliuk's disposition, when she was listening for the first time +to the sound of the organ, of which she seemed never to have +enough; and almost every day she now began to display some of that +superiority of understanding for which she was so remarkably +distinguished. A few of the women learned several of our names +to-day, and I believe all thought us Angekoks[*] of a very +superior class, when we repeated to them all round, by the +assistance of our books, the names of all their husbands, obtained +on board the preceding day. On our way back to the ships we saw a +party of them, with their dogs, returning over the hill from the +northeastward; and we afterward met another of eight or ten, who +had walked round by the southeast point on the ice, all alike +unsuccessful, after being out in the wind for six hours, with the +thermometer from 18 to 22 degrees below _zero_. Thus hardly did +these people obtain their daily subsistence at this severe season +of the year. + +[Footnote: Sorcerers or wizards, pronounced as written above in +Greenland; but at Winter Island _Ang-~et-k~ook_; and by the people +at Igloolik, _An-n~at-k~o_.] + +A wolf being caught in one of the traps this evening, which was so +close as to be easily watched from the ship, a party of the +officers ran out to secure the depredator, and fired two balls +into the trap at once to despatch him. Finding, after this, that +he continued to bite a sword that was thrust in, a third shot was +fired at him. The trap was then sufficiently opened to get his +hind legs firmly tied together, after which, being considered +tolerably secure, he was pulled out of the trap, which, however, +his head had scarcely cleared, when he furiously flew at Mr. +Richards's throat, and would certainly have done him some serious +mischief had not that gentleman, with great presence of mind, +seized the animal in his turn by the throat, squeezing him with +all his force between both hands. This made the wolf relinquish +his first attempt, and Mr. Richards only suffered by a bite in his +arm and another in his knee, which, on account of the thickness of +his clothes, were happily not severe ones. As for the wolf, he +prudently took to his heels, though two of them were still tied +together; and, being favoured by the momentary confusion, +occasioned by his late rencounter with Mr. Richards, succeeded in +escaping his pursuers. He was found dead the following day at the +distance of three quarters of a mile from the ships. + +On the 8th we were visited by a musical party of females, +consisting only of a few individuals expressly invited for this +purpose. A number of the officers assembled in the cabin to hear +this vocal concert, while Mr. Henderson and myself took down the +notes of their songs, for which, indeed, they gave us every +opportunity, for I thought they would never leave off. We +afterward amused them with our little band of flutes and violins, +and also by some songs, with the whole of which they were +extremely well pleased. I feared several of them, and especially +Iligliuk, would go into fits with delight when we introduced into +our song some of their names mingled with our own. While most of +us were thus employed, Captain Lyon took the opportunity of making +drawings of some of the women, especially of _Togolat_, the +prettiest of the party, and, perhaps, of the whole village. She +was about six-and-twenty years of age, with a face more oval than +that of Esquimaux in general, very pretty eyes and mouth, teeth +remarkably white and regular, and possessing in her carriage and +manners a degree of natural gracefulness, which could not be hid +even under the disguise of an Esquimaux woman's dress, and, as was +usual with Togolat, the dirtiest face of her whole tribe. Her +husband, _Ewerat_, a little ugly man of about five-and-forty, was +the only individual among them laying claim to the title of +Angetkook, and was, in reality, a sensible, obliging man, and a +first-rate seal-catcher. They had two children, one of which, a +little girl, Togolat still occasionally suckled, and, according to +custom, carried in the hood behind her back; the other, a boy +about eight years of age, quite an idiot, deaf and dumb from his +birth, and squinting most horribly with both eyes. + +Finding that these poor creatures were now really in want of food, +for the men had again returned from an unsuccessful excursion, I +was happy to avail myself of a hint given to me by Captain Lyon, +to furnish them occasionally with a small supply of bread-dust, of +which we had two or three casks in each ship. Our present party +was therefore, in addition to other articles, supplied with +several pounds, which they immediately expressed their intention +to take home to their children. Several of them visited the ships +as usual on the 9th, and among the rest Ka-oong-ut and his son +Toolooak. The old gentleman was not a favourite with us, being the +only one who had yet begun to tease us by constant begging. We had +often expressed displeasure at this habit, which, after a day or +two's acquaintance, began to be extremely troublesome; but I had +to-day to take cognizance of his stealing a nail, of which I +determined to take a rather serious notice, as it might otherwise +lead to more extensive theft. I therefore collected all the other +Esquimaux who were on board, and having in their presence +expressed great indignation at this conduct, turned the offender +away in disgrace. Some of those best acquainted with us were +afterward taken into the cabin, where our sentiments were more +fully explained to them. Among these I was not sorry to have +Toolooak and Iligliuk, who would not fail to report at the huts +all our proceedings, but who did not appear to consider themselves +in the slightest degree implicated in their father's offence, or +concerned in his disgrace. The people of the huts being much in +want of food, we again distributed some bread-dust among them; +taking care to send a portion to the infirm old man, _Hik-k~ei-~er= +a_, by _Ok~otook_, the husband of Iligliuk, a fine, active, manly +fellow of about two-and-thirty, who, as we were pleased to find the +next day, had punctually executed his commission. + +The Esquimaux went out on the 10th to endeavour to catch seals as +usual, but returned unsuccessful after several hours' labour. As +it was now evident that their own exertions were not at all times +sufficient to procure them food at this season, and that neither +indolence nor any idea of dependance on our charity induced them +to relax in those exertions, it became incumbent on us carefully +to attend to their wants, and, by a timely and judicious +application of the slender resources we had set aside for their +use, prevent any absolute suffering among them. We therefore sent +out a good meal of bread-dust for each individual, to be divided +in due proportion among all the huts. The necessity of this supply +appeared very strongly from the report of our people, who found +some of these poor creatures actually gnawing a piece of hard +sealskin with the hair on it, while few of the huts had any lamp +alight. It must be remembered that the failure of their +seal-fishery always involves a double calamity, for it not only +deprives them of food, but of fuel for their lamps. When this is +the case, not to mention the want of warmth and light in the huts, +they are also destitute of the means of melting snow for water, +and can therefore only quench their thirst by eating the snow, +which is not only a comfortless, but an ineffectual resource. In +consequence of this, it was surprising to see the quantity of +water these people drank whenever they came on board; and it was +often with difficulty that our coppers could answer this +additional demand. I am certain that Toolooak one day drank nearly +a gallon in less than two hours. Besides the bread-dust, we also +supplied them to-day with a wolf's carcass, which, raw and frozen +as it was, they ate with a good appetite; and, indeed, they had +not the means of cooking, or even thawing it. I cannot here omit a +pleasing trait in their character, observed by our people who +carried out their supplies; not a morsel of which would the +grown-up people touch till they had first supplied the wants of +their hungry little ones. + +On the morning of the 12th, Okotook and his uncle _Arnaneelia_, a +sensible and worthy man of about five-and-forty years of age, +coming on board from their fishing, we showed them the stage and +scenery that were just put up, and invited them and their wives to +the play about to be performed this evening. They accordingly went +back and brought the women, who understood they were to be present +at some diversion, though they did not well know what. It was +enough, however, with Iligliuk, just to make the motion of turning +the handle of the organ, which, conveying to her mind the idea of +music and merriment, was always sure to put her immediately into +high spirits. As they came three or four hours before the +performance of "John Bull" was to commence, they began to grow +tired and impatient, especially when it became dusk, and candles +were brought into the cabin. The men then explained that it would +soon be dark, and that, in returning late to their huts, they +should disturb the people who would then be fast asleep there. +Finding that they grew uneasy, I made no objection to their +returning, and sent them off loaded with bread-dust and some oil +for each of their lamps. They remained long enough, however, to +have a peep at _Mrs. Brulgruddery_, whose dress, when they were +informed it was that of a _kabl=o=ona nooll=e=e-~o_ (European +wife), they were very anxious in examining, and seemed to grieve +at going away without sharing the diversion which this and other +preparations seemed to promise. + +On the 13th, our friends at the huts were fortunate in procuring +three seals, an event that created great joy at the village. Mr. +Allison, who happened to be there when one of these prizes was +announced, informed me that there was a general outcry of joy; all +the Women hurried to the doors of the huts, and the children +rushed to the beach to meet the men dragging along the prize. One +of these little urchins, to complete the triumphant exultation +with which this event was hailed, instantly threw himself on the +animal, and clinging fast to it, was thus dragged to the huts. +Each woman was observed to bring her _=o=otk~oos~eek_, or +cooking-pot, to the hut where the seal was dissected, for the +purpose of receiving a share of the meat and blubber. + +On the 15th it blew a strong gale from S.W. to W.N.W., and the +thermometer, either on account of the strength of the wind or its +having occasionally some southing in it, rose to -4 deg., being the +highest temperature registered in our journals since the 27th of +December preceding. I had agreed with Okotook to accompany him on +a sealing excursion, but the day proved too inclement, the +Esquimaux not going out themselves, though it was not very often +that the weather could prevent them. Considering it desirable to +increase, by all the means in our power, the chances of these +people giving information of us, we distributed among several of +the men large round medallions of sheet copper, having these words +punched through them: "H.B.M.S. Fury and Hecla, all well, A.D. +1822." These we suspended by a piece of white line round their +necks, giving them to understand that they were to show them to +any Kabloona people they might ever meet with in future. Similar +ornaments, but of a smaller size, were subsequently presented to +many of the women, having on them the words "Fury and Hecla, +1822." + +Early on the morning of the 16th, observing a party of the +Esquimaux, equipped with spears, passing near the ships, I joined +them, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and one or two others. Having +crossed the point of the island, they walked over the ice to the +eastward, where we did not overtake them till they had got above a +mile and a quarter from the shore. This party consisted of eight +persons, among whom we were glad to find Arnaneelia, Okotook, +Toolooak, _Pootooalook_ his elder brother, and one or two others +whom we knew. They had by this time, however, separated into two +or three different parties, stationed at the distance of half a +mile from each other, along the edge of the floe, beyond which, to +the eastward, there was clear water as far as we could see for +frost-smoke. + +The party we at first joined were seated on a high hummock of ice, +with their spears in their hands, looking out for seals. After we +had talked to them for a few minutes, Okotook suddenly started up +and set off along the edge of the ice, without giving us at his +companions the least warning. The latter seemed so much accustomed +to this, that they took no farther notice than by immediately +following him, and we did the same; the whole party walking at a +very quick rate, and the natives keeping their heads constantly +turned towards the sea to look out for seals. After being thus +engaged for an hour and a half, we judged, from the motions of a +party at some distance beyond us, that they had game in view. As +we approached them, Okotook evidently began to be apprehensive +that we, who did not understand the matter, would spoil their +sport. To prevent this, he did the most civil thing that could +well have been devised, which was, to send his companions one by +one to the spot, and to remain with us himself, keeping us at such +a distance as to allow us to see their proceedings, without +alarming the animal they were in pursuit of. The other seven +Esquimaux, now forming one party, disposed themselves into a +single line, so as to make as small an appearance as possible in +the direction in which they were going, and in this manner crept +very cautiously towards the margin of the floe. On a sudden they +all stooped down quite low to hide themselves, and continued thus +a quarter of an hour, during which time they prepared their lines +and spears; and then, when the animal appeared to be intercepted +from their view, again took the opportunity of gaining a few paces +upon him, in the same cautious manner as before. When they had +been thus occupied for a full hour, alternately creeping and +stooping down, the seal, which had been lying on the ice, took the +water, and they then gave up their chase. During this time, +Okotook could scarcely restrain his impatience to be nearer the +scene of action; and when we produced a spyglass, which appeared +to bring his companions close to us, he had not words to express +his surprise and satisfaction. In a short time he held it as +steadily as we did, and explained by signs every motion he +observed. + +As soon as they had given up the seal they had been watching, the +whole party seemed with one accord to turn their steps homeward, +in which direction, being that of the ships also, we were by this +time not sorry to accompany them. We were now between three and +four miles northeast of the ships, and full a mile and a half from +any part of the shore. In the open water beyond the floe, the tide +was running two knots to the northward, and as the ice on which we +stood had been formed only within the last fortnight, and a sheet +as substantial as this had before been carried away by the stream +it was impossible not to feel some apprehension lest we might thus +be detached from the shore, an accident that has been known to +happen to Esquimaux ere now,[*] and has probably more frequently +befallen them, when none have survived to tell the tale. + +[Footnote: Crantz, London edition, 1820, Appendix, p. 310.] + +As we returned towards the land, we came to a small rising on the +level surface of the floe not larger than a common molehill, and +of much the same shape, at which one of the Esquimaux immediately +stopped. His companions, still walking on, called us away, +explaining that what we saw was the work of a seal, and that it +was probable the animal was about to complete his hole and to come +up on the ice, in which case the man would endeavour to kill him. +We watched the man at the hole, however, with a glass, for more +than half an hour, observing him constantly putting his head down +towards the ice, as if in the act of listening for the seal, but +without otherwise changing his position; after which he followed +us on board without success. + +If, however, a man has any reason to suppose that a seal is at +work beneath, he immediately attaches himself to the place, and +seldom leaves it till he has succeeded in killing the animal. For +this purpose, he first builds a snow-wall about four feet in +height, to shelter him from the wind, and, seating himself under +the lee of it, deposites his spear, lines, and other implements +upon several little forked sticks inserted into the snow, in order +to prevent the smallest noise being made in moving them when +wanted. But the most curious precaution to the same effect +consists in tying his own knees together with a thong, so securely +as to prevent any rustling of his clothes, which might otherwise +alarm the animal. In this situation a man will sit quietly +sometimes for hours together, attentively listening to any noise +made by the seal, and sometimes using the _keip-kuttuk_, an +instrument hereafter described, in order to ascertain whether the +animal is still at work below. When he supposes the hole to be +nearly completed, he cautiously lifts his spear, to which the line +has been previously attached, and, as soon as the blowing of the +seal is distinctly heard, and the ice consequently very thin, he +drives it into him with the force of both arms, and then cuts away +with his _panna_ the remaining crust of ice, to enable him to +repeat the wounds and get him out. The _neitiek_ is the only seal +killed in this manner, and, being the smallest, is held while +struggling either simply by hand, or by putting the line round a +spear with the point stuck into the ice. For the _oguke_, the line +is passed round the man's leg or arm; and for a walrus, round his +body, his feet being at the same time firmly set against a hummock +of ice, in which position these people can, from habit, hold +against a very heavy strain. Boys of fourteen or fifteen years of +age consider themselves equal to the killing of a _neitiek_, but +it requires a full-grown person to master either of the larger +animals. + +On the 17th, a number of the Esquimaux coming before the church +service, we gave them to understand, by the sun, that none could +be admitted before noon, when they quietly remained outside the +ships till divine service had been performed. We then endeavoured +to explain to Iligliuk that every seventh day they must not come +to the ships, for, without any intention of offending, they had +become rather an annoyance in this way. They now brought with them +a great many little canoes and paddles, sledges, figures of men +and women; and other toys, most of them already bespoke by the +officers and men, and the rest for sale. + +Toolooak, who now considered himself as quite privileged to find +his way into the cabin without a conductor, and was not backward +in thus practising his newly-acquired art of opening and shutting +the door, sat with me for a couple of hours on the 18th, quietly +drawing faces and animals, an occupation to which he took a great +fancy; and we often were reminded, by this circumstance, of a +similar propensity displayed by his amiable countryman, our +lamented friend John Sackhouse. We soon found that Toolooak +possessed a capacity equal to anything he chose to take an +interest in learning; and could he, at his present age, have been +voluntarily removed from his companions, and his attention +directed to the acquirement of higher branches of knowledge than +that of catching seals, he would have amply repaid any pains +bestowed upon his education. I had always entertained great +objection to taking any such individual from his home, on the +doubtful chance of benefiting himself, or of his doing any service +to the public as an interpreter. My scruples on this head had +hitherto been confined to the consideration due to the individual +himself, and to the relatives he leaves behind. In our present +case, however, not the smallest public advantage could be derived +from it; for it had long ago become evident that we should soon +know more of the Esquimaux language than any of them were likely +to learn of English in any reasonable period of time. I was +therefore far from desiring to receive from Toolooak an answer in +the affirmative, when I to-day plainly put the question to him, +whether he would go with me to _Kabloona noona_ (European +country). Never was a more decisive negative given than Toolooak +gave to this proposal. He eagerly repeated the word _na-o_ (no) +half a dozen times, and then told me that if he went away his +father would cry. This simple but irresistible appeal to paternal +affection, his decisive manner of making it, and the feelings by +which his reply was evidently dictated, were just what could have +been wished. No more could be necessary to convince those who saw +it, that these people may justly lay equal claim with ourselves to +these common feelings of our nature; and, having once satisfied +myself of this, I determined never again to excite in Toolooak's +mind another disagreeable sensation, by talking to him on this +subject. + +Besides the toys and models I have mentioned above, as articles of +barter with these people, we also employed them more usefully in +making wooden shades for the eyes, after their own method, as the +time was fast approaching when some such precaution would become +necessary to guard the eyes from the excessive glare of reflected +light. There was also a considerable _trade_ established in +mittens, which being made of prepared sealskin, and nearly +water-tight, were particularly serviceable to our men when +constantly handling the leadlines in the summer. In this manner we +contrived to turn our new acquaintance to some little account. + +Among the natives who visited the Fury to-day was Ewerat; of whom +I have already spoken as _Ang-et-kook_, or chief sorcerer of the +tribe, a distinction with which he had made some of our gentlemen +acquainted at one, of their earliest visits to the huts. Being +desirous of seeing him perform some of the tricks which had +acquired for him this pre-eminence, I requested him to indulge me +with a sight of them. After some little demur, he began to make +his lips quiver, then moved his nose up and down, gradually closed +his eyes, and increased the violence of his grimaces till every +feature was hideously distorted; at the same time, he moved his +head rapidly from side to side, uttering sometimes a snuffling +sound, and at others a raving sort of cry. Having worked himself +into this ridiculous kind of phrensy, which lasted, perhaps, from +twenty to thirty seconds, he suddenly discontinued it, and +suffered his features to relax into their natural form; but the +motion of his head seemed to have so stupified him, as indeed it +well might, that there remained an unusual vacancy and a drowsy +stare upon his countenance for some time afterward. Being pressed +to repeat this piece of buffoonery, he did so two or three times; +and on one occasion Togolat asked him, in a serious tone, some +questions respecting me, which he as seriously answered. In +general, however, the women paid little attention to his grimaces, +and the whole ended with a hearty laugh from all parties. + +I had to-day some conversation with a woman named Appokiuk, whom +Iligliuk had mentioned as having seen Kabloona people before us. +This woman was gifted, however, with such a volubility of tongue, +that speaking, as she did, in a language very imperfectly known to +us, she gave no time for questions, and therefore afforded little +information. All we could make out for certain was, that she had, +within a year past, seen two _Kabloona oomiak_ (whether ships or +boats was still doubtful[*]), and that her husband was now far +away. From all this we concluded that she had been far enough to +the southward to see the Hudson's Bay ships in the course of their +annual voyage; and this account gave us very sanguine hopes of +being thus able to communicate with them by means of some of the +Esquimaux. + +[Footnote: These people apply the word _oomiak_ to any vessel +larger than a canoe.] + +On the 20th, a number of our new friends having been allowed upon +the upper deck, an old woman named _Ay=ug-g~a-lo~ok_ stole our +cooper's punch, which she was showing to her companions alongside +the Hecla just afterward, when Lieutenant Hoppner observed it, and +sent her back with an escort. It was impossible not to admit that +the fault was chiefly on our side, in permitting these poor people +to roam about too freely amid temptations which scarcely anything +human could have withstood; but as it was necessary to take some +notice of it, I went through nearly the same process as with +Kaoongut, and dismissed her with great appearance of indignation +to the huts. We were glad to find that their wants had there been +well supplied to-day, three seals having been caught. They had +lately, indeed, been tolerably successful in general, and required +but little of our assistance. Mr. Elder observing one of their +dogs attacked by several wolves, and hastening to the spot with +his gun, found that these animals had made such quick work in the +partition of their prey, that, though he reached the scene of +action in a few minutes, and the dog had at first made considerable +resistance, only one of its hind legs remained, each wolf having +run off with its share. It is remarkable that these creatures +had never entered our traps since the moon had declined to the +southward, whereas not a night elapsed before that without their +going to them. The Esquimaux had in theirs caught only a fox. + +During the eclipse of the sun which took place to-day, the +diminution, of light was very considerable, but the weather was +unfavourable for observing it for any useful purpose. Captain Lyon +remarked, that some of the Esquimaux, who were on alarmed at this +phenomenon, which, indeed, made a general bustle among them. Two +of them were found on the ice lying on their faces, but it was not +ascertained whether their superstitions on this subject were the +same as those of their brethren in Greenland. + +Mr. Henderson being desirous of seeing something of the customs of +these people during the hours of darkness, obtained my permission +to pass the night at the huts, accompanied by Mr. Griffiths. Soon +after they left the ships in the evening it came on to blow strong +from the northwest, with much snowdrift, so that, losing the +tracks, they with difficulty found the village. Returning on board +in the course of the next forenoon, we were pleased to hear that +they had met with every attention, and especially from Okotook, +with whom they lodged. As they had slept in Kaoongut's hut, one +side of which was occupied by Okotook and his family, the old +fellow thought it a good opportunity to make up the quarrel +occasioned by his dishonesty; and he accordingly made his +appearance on board to-day for the first time since that event. +Toolooak was deputed to bring his father down into the cabin, where +a formal reconciliation took place, to the great satisfaction of +the latter, who had found out that to be out of favour with us was +attended with the serious consequence of being also out of pocket. +It was laughable to observe the pains he now took to impress on the +minds of every person he saw that he was no longer a _tigliktoke_, +by which name he had lately been distinguished; for he seemed to +think that my receiving him again into favour was a perfect +absolution from his offense. + +On the 23d I paid another visit to the huts, and found the greater +part of the men absent on their sealing excursions. We thought, +however, that, except on pressing occasions, one man was left in +each hut to keep an eye on the conduct of the women, and this was +the case to-day. The huts had in the interior assumed a somewhat +different appearance since I had last seen them; the roofs were +much blackened by the smoke of the lamps, and the warmth had in +most parts given them a glazed and honey-combed surface; indeed, +the whole of the walls had become much thinner by thawing, so that +the light was more plainly visible through them. The snow also, on +which the lamps stood, was considerably worn away, so as to +destroy, in great measure, the regularity of the original plan of +construction. To these changes might be added that of a vast +quantity of blood and oil that now defaced the purity of the snowy +floor, and emitted effluvia not very agreeable to European noses; +so that, upon the whole, it may be imagined that our first +impressions of the comfort and cleanliness of these habitations +were more favourable than their present state was calculated to +excite. + +To the original apartments they had now also added various small +places for stores, communicating with the huts from within, and +looking something like our ovens, though without any door to them. +In some of these they deposited their upper jackets, which they +usually take off in coming into their huts, as we do a greatcoat; +while in smaller ones, like little shelves in a recess, they kept +various articles of their Kabloona riches. These and similar +alterations and additions they were constantly making throughout +the winter; for their inexhaustible materials being always at +hand, it required but little time and labour to adopt any +arrangement that might suit their convenience. + +After distributing a number of presents in the first four huts, I +found, on entering the last, that Pootooalook had been successful +in bringing in a seal, over which two elderly women were standing, +armed with large knives, their hands and faces besmeared with +blood, and delight and exultation depicted on their countenances. +They had just performed the first operation of dividing the animal +into two parts, and thus laying open the intestines. These being +taken out, and all the blood carefully baled up and put into the +_ootkooseek_, or cooking-pot, over the fire, they separated the +head and flippers from the carcass, and then divided the ribs. All +the loose scraps were put into the pot for immediate use, except +such as the two butchers now and then crammed into their mouths, +or distributed to the numerous and eager by-standers for still +more immediate consumption. Of these morsels the children came in +for no small share, every little urchin that could find its way to +the slaughterhouse running eagerly in, and, between the legs of +the men and women, presenting its mouth for a large lump of raw +flesh, just as an English child of the same age might do for a +piece of sugar-candy. Every now and then, also, a dog would make +his way towards the reeking carcass, and, when in the act of +seizing upon some delicate part, was sent off yelping by a heavy +blow with the handles of the knives. When all the flesh is +disposed of, for a portion of which each of the women from the +other huts usually brings her ootkooseek, the blubber still +remains attached to the skin, from which it is separated the last; +and the business being now completed, the two parts of the hide +are rolled up and laid by, together with the store of flesh and +blubber. During the dissection of their seals, they have a curious +custom of sticking a thin filament of skin, or of some part of the +intestines, upon the foreheads of the boys, who are themselves +extremely fond of it, it being intended, as Iligliuk afterward +informed me, to make them fortunate seal-catchers. + +The seals which they take during the winter are of two kinds--the +_Neitiek_, or small seal (_phoca hispida_), and the _Oguke_, or +large seal (_phoca barbata_). These and the _E=i-~u-~ek_, or +walrus, constitute their means of subsistence at this season; but, +on this particular part of the coast, the latter are not very +abundant, and they chiefly catch the neitiek. The animal we had +now seen dissected was of that kind, and with young at the time. A +small one taken out of it had a beautiful skin, which, both in +softness and colour, very much resembled raw silk; but no +inducement could make Pootooalook part with it, he having destined +it for that night's supper. + +After quitting this scene of filth, I found, on returning to +Kaoongut's hut, that Toolooak had been no less successful than his +brother, and that the same operation was also performing here. +Having, therefore, explained to Iligliuk that none of them were to +come to the ships the following day, I had no inclination to see +the process repeated, and was glad to take my leave. + +On the 28th, Okotook and Iligliuk coming on board, an occurrence +took place, which, as it shows the disposition of the Esquimaux, +and especially of one of the most intelligent and interesting +among them, I may here relate. Some time before, Iligliuk, who, +from the superior neatness and cleanliness with which she +performed her work, was by this time in great request as a +seamstress, had promised to cover for me a little model of a +canoe, and had, in fact, sent it to me by the sergeant of marines, +though I had not rightly understood from the latter from which of +the women it came. Believing that she had failed in her promise, I +now taxed her with it, when she immediately defended herself with +considerable warmth and seriousness, but without making me +comprehend her meaning. Finding that she was wasting her words +upon me, she said no more till an hour afterward, when the +sergeant accidentally coming into the cabin, she, with the utmost +composure, but with a decision of manner peculiar to herself, took +hold of his arm to engage his attention, and then looking him +steadfastly in the face, accused him of not having faithfully +executed her commission to me. The mistake was thus instantly +explained, and I thanked Iligliuk for her canoe; but it is +impossible for me to describe the quiet, yet proud satisfaction +displayed in her countenance at having thus cleared herself from +the imputation of a breach of promise. + +There being among the presents with which we were supplied a +number of pikes, we presented two or three of these from each ship +to the most deserving of the Esquimaux, to serve as staves for +their spears; and valuable ones they proved to them. Upon each +pike were marked, by small nails driven into the wood, the words +"Fury and Hecla, 1822." + +Almost the whole of these people were now affected with violent +colds and coughs, occasioned by a considerable thawing that had +lately taken place in their huts, so as to wet their clothes and +bedding; though we had, as yet, experienced no great increase of +temperature. From the nature of their habitations, however, their +comfort was greater, and their chance of health better, when the +cold was more severe. On this account, they began to make fresh +alterations in these curious dwelling-places, either by building +the former apartments two or three feet higher, or adding others, +that they might be less crowded. In building a higher hut, they +constructed it over, and, as it were, concentric with the old one, +which is then removed from within. It is curious to consider that, +in all these alterations, the object kept in view was _coolness_, +and this in houses formed of snow! + +Some of them had caught a wolf in their trap; but we found that +nothing less than extreme want could have induced them to eat the +flesh of that which we had given them, as, now that they had other +food, they would not touch it. Only four wolves at this time +remained alive of the original pack, and these were constantly +prowling about near the ships or the village. + +The month of February closed with the thermometer at -32 deg., and, +though the sun had now attained a meridian altitude of nearly +sixteen degrees, and enlivened us with his presence above the +horizon for ten hours in the day, no sensible effect had yet been +produced on the average temperature of the atmosphere. The +uniformly white surface of the snow, on which, at this season, the +sun's rays have to act, or, rather, leaving them nothing to act +upon, is much against the first efforts to produce a thaw; but our +former experience of the astonishing rapidity with which this +operation is carried on, when once the ground begins to be laid +bare, served in some measure to reconcile us to what appeared a +protraction of the cold of winter not to have been expected in our +present latitude. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party +by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate +Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological +Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes +relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing. + + +Our intercourse with the Esquimaux continued, and many occasions +occurred in which they displayed great good humour, and a degree +of archness for which we could have scarcely given them credit. + +On the 12th Okotook came, according to an appointment previously +made, with a sledge and six dogs, to give me a ride to the huts, +bringing with him his son Sioutkuk, who, with ourselves, made up a +weight of near four hundred pounds upon the sledge. After being +upset twice, and stopping at least ten times, notwithstanding the +incessant bullying of Okotook, and, as it seemed to me, more +bodily labour on his part to steer us clear of accidents than if +he had walked the whole way, we at length arrived at the huts; a +distance of two miles, in five-and-twenty minutes. Of this +equipment and their usual modes of travelling, I shall have +occasion to speak more fully in another place. + +I found that several fresh alterations had been made in the huts +since my last visit, all, however, of the same, kind, and having +in view the same object as those last described. In these +alterations they seem to consult the convenience of the moment, +and to do it all by such unanimous consent, that no consultation +or difference of opinion ever appears to exist about it. So much +snowdrift had now collected about the huts, that their external +appearance was as much altered as that of the interior, and it was +difficult to trace any resemblance to the original village, or +even to perceive its present limits. The snow was now as high as +the roofs on every side, so that one might walk completely over +them, and, but for the round plates of ice composing the windows, +without suspecting the little hive of human beings that was +comfortably established below. This, however, was not always done +with impunity, when the thawing within had too much weakened the +roofs, in which case a leg sometimes made its way through, and +discovered in what parts repairs were become necessary. The +natives were at this time extremely well furnished with seals' +flesh for food and oil for their lamps, and all they would accept +from us (except meat, which we could not afford to give) was +water, and this they swallowed in such quantities whenever they +came to the ships, that it was impossible to furnish them with +half as much as they desired. + +We had before this time communicated to Ayoket and his countrymen +our intention of sending a party of our people to the northward in +the spring; and Captain Lyon had displayed to him all the charms +of a brightly-polished brass kettle, of greater magnitude than +had, perhaps, ever entered into an Esquimaux imagination, as an +inducement, among various others, for him to accompany the +Kabloonas in their excursion. The prospect of such riches was a +temptation almost irresistible; but enterprise is not the genius +of an Esquimaux; and Ayoket, we soon began to perceive, had no +fancy for the proposed trip, which all his friends persisted in +saying could never be accomplished. This was evidently to be +attributed, in no small degree, to jealousy of any one individual +among them being thus selected; and the brass kettle was speedily +the means of increasing the distance to "Iligliuk's country" from +sixteen to twenty-four days' journey. We had long, indeed, +observed that this feeling of jealousy was easily excited among +these people; but, what is extraordinary, it never displayed +itself (as is most usual) among themselves, but was entirely +vented upon us, who were, though innocently, the authors of it. As +an instance of this, a man of the name of _Karr~etok_ refused to +take from me a strong and useful pair of scissors as a present, +because, as he did not hesitate to assure me, I had given Okotook +a pike, which was _more_ valuable. To show him that this temper +was not likely to produce anything to his advantage, I took back +the scissors, and, having sent him away, went to my dinner. Going +accidentally on deck an hour afterward, I found Karretok still on +board, who, having had time to reflect on his folly, now came up +to me with a smiling face, and begged hard for the scissors, +which, of course, he did not get. Many similar instances occurred, +both to Captain Lyon and myself. + +To this discouragement on the part of his friends, was added, on +that of Ayoket, the same wavering and inconstant disposition which +most other savages possess, rendering it impossible to place any +dependance on his promises and intentions for two hours together. +Indeed, the more our scheme was pressed upon his attention, and +the more he saw of the actual preparations for the journey, the +less doubtful his intentions became; and arrangements were +therefore made for completing the party without him. For the +reasons now given, it was equally impossible even to direct the +attention of the Esquimaux, with any hope of success, to our +scheme of their conveying letters to the Hudson's Bay settlements. + +Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, some of the +Esquimaux had, by the foot and sledge marks, found their way to +the ships on the morning of the 16th, assuring us, as we found to +be too true, that, in consequence of the gale, which prevented +their going out for seals, they had not any food, nor a single +lamp alight in the village. In the course of the following day, we +had farther proofs of the wretchedness which these poor people +were enduring at the huts; for, though the weather was little +better than before, above forty men and women, besides some +children, came down to the ships, and begged with more than their +usual earnestness for something to eat. It now once more became an +act of humanity, and consequently of duty, to supply them as well +as we were able; and all were admitted to partake of as much +bread-dust as they could eat, besides a quantity which they took +away with them. It had been long since Okotook and Iligliuk cared +to accept this kind of food from us, partly because our respect +for the latter generally ensured them something better, and partly +because, of late, they had procured plenty of seals; to-day, +however, they devoured it eagerly, and seemed very well satisfied +to take their share with the others. When the usual time of +departure came, they all discovered a wish to remain on board; +but, as we could not find lodgings for the whole tribe, they were +obliged very reluctantly to return. _Nannow_, a fine, quiet young, +man, whose native country is near Chesterfield Inlet, and who, +having only a sister here, used to live with Okotook, begged very +hard to remain on board; but, as I did not like to give the +preference to one in particular, he also took his leave. + +On the 18th, almost every man from the huts was out seal-hunting, +and three or four, as the women informed us, had gone to a +considerable distance "for walruses" and with the intention of +remaining out for the night in a snow hut. While the men were thus +employed, their wives did not fail to use their endeavours also to +procure food; and I believe that every female belonging to the +village, without a single exception, made her appearance at the +ships to-day, and was supplied with a proportion of bread-dust for +her family. It was pleasing to observe that they were always +punctual in returning the buckets and bags which we lent them for +carrying out their provisions. + +The endeavours we had lately been making to gain from the +Esquimaux some knowledge of the geographical features of the land +to the northward, had at length been crowned with greater success +than we had anticipated, and some information of a very gratifying +and interesting nature thus obtained. I shall here, therefore, +give some account of that information, and of the progressive +steps by which it was communicated, which may, at the same time, +serve to show the kind and degree of dependence that is to be +placed on geographical notices thus obtained. + +The first attempt made in this way was by placing several sheets +of paper before Iligliuk, and roughly drawing on a large scale an +outline of the land about Repulse Bay and Lyon Inlet, and, +terminating at our present winter-quarters. Iligliuk was not long +in comprehending what we desired, and with the pencil continued +the outline, making the land trend, as we supposed, to the +northeastward, and giving the names of the principal places as we +proceeded. The scale being large, it was necessary, when she came +to the end of one piece of paper to tack on another, till at +length she had filled ten or twelve sheets, and had completely +lost the sight of Winter Island (called _Ne-y=uning-E=it-d~u~a_) +at the other end of the table. The idea entertained from this +first attempt was, that we should find the coast indented by +several inlets, and in some parts much loaded with ice, especially +at one strait to the northward of her native island Amitioke, +which seemed to lead in a direction very much to the westward. + +Within a week after this, several other charts were drawn by the +natives in a similar way, principally by the desire of Captain +Lyon and Mr. Griffiths, who took great pains to acquire +information of this nature, and sent me copies of these +productions. The coast was here delineated as before, on a very +large scale, but much more in, detail, many more islands, bays, +and names being, inserted. It was observable, however, that no two +charts much resembled each other, and that the greater number of +them still less resembled the truth in those parts of the coast +with which we were well acquainted. + +Early in the morning the Esquimaux had been observed in motion at +the huts; and several sledges, drawn by dogs and heavily laden, +went off to the westward. On going out to the village, we found +one half of the people had quitted their late habitations, taking +with them every article of their property, and had gone over the +ice, we knew not where, in quest of more abundant food. The +wretched appearance which the interior of the huts now presented +baffles all description. In each of the larger ones some of the +apartments were either wholly or in part deserted, the very snow +which composed the beds and fireplaces having been turned up, that +no article might be left behind. Even the bare walls, whose +original colour was scarcely perceptible for lampblack, blood, and +other filth, were not left perfect, large holes having been made +in the sides and roofs for the convenience of handing out the +goods and chattels. The sight of a deserted habitation is at all +times calculated to excite in the mind a sensation of dreariness +and desolation, especially when we have lately seen it filled with +cheerful inhabitants; but the feeling is heightened rather than +diminished when a small portion of these inhabitants remain behind +to endure the wretchedness which such a scene exhibits. This was +now the case at the village, where, though the remaining tenants +of each hut had combined to occupy one of the apartments, a great +part of the bed-places were still bare, and the wind and drift +blowing in through the holes which they had not yet taken the +trouble to stop up. The old man Hikkeiera and his wife occupied a +hut by themselves, without any lamp, or a single ounce of meat +belonging to them; while three small skins, on which the former +was lying, were all that they possessed in the way of blankets. +Upon the whole, I never beheld a more miserable spectacle, and it +seemed a charity to hope that a violent and constant cough, with +which the old man was afflicted, would speedily combine with his +age and infirmities to release him from his present sufferings. +Yet, in the midst of all this, he was cheerful, nor was there a +gloomy countenance to be seen at the village. Almost all the men +were out; and some of them had been led so far to sea upon the +floating and detached masses of ice in pursuit of walruses, that +Captain Lyon, who observed their situation from the ships, had it +in contemplation, in the course of the evening, to launch one of +the small boats to go to their assistance. They seemed, however, +to entertain no apprehensions themselves, from a confidence, +perhaps, that the southeast wind might be depended upon for +keeping the ice close home upon the shore. It is certain, +notwithstanding, that no degree of precaution, nor any knowledge +of the winds and tides, can render this otherwise than a most +perilous mode of obtaining subsistence; and it was impossible, +therefore, not to admire the fearlessness as well as dexterity +with which the Esquimaux invariably pursued it. + +Having distributed some bread-dust among the women, we told old +Illumea and her daughter Togolat that we proposed taking up our +lodging in their hut for the night. It is a remarkable trait in +the character of these people, that they always thank you heartily +for this, as well as for eating any of their meat; but board and +lodging may be given to _them_ without receiving the slightest +acknowledgment either in word or deed. As it was late before the +men returned, I asked Togolat to get the rest of the women to +perform some of their games, with the hope of seeing something +that was new. I had scarcely time to make the proposal when she +darted out of the hut, and quickly brought every female that was +left at the village, not excepting even the oldest of them, who +joined in the performance with the same alacrity as the rest. I +could, however, only persuade them to go through a tedious song we +often before heard, which was now, indeed, somewhat modified by +their insisting on our taking our turns in the performance, all +which did not fail to create among them never-ceasing merriment +and laughter. Neither their want of food and fuel, nor the +uncertain prospect of obtaining any that night, was sufficient to +deprive these poor creatures of that cheerfulness and good-humour +which it seems at all times their peculiar happiness to enjoy. + +The night proved very thick, with small snow, and as disagreeable +and dangerous for people adrift upon floating ice as can well be +imagined. If the women, however, gave their husbands a thought, or +spoke of them to us, it was only to express a very sincere hope +that some good news might shortly arrive of their success. Our +singing party had not long been broken up, when it was suddenly +announced by one of the children, the usual heralds on such +occasions, that the men had killed something on the ice. The only +two men who were at home instantly scrambled on their outer +jackets, harnessed their dogs, and set off to assist their +companions in bringing home the game, while the women remained for +an hour in anxious suspense as to the extent of their husbands' +success. At length one of the men arrived with the positive +intelligence of two walruses having been taken, and brought with +him a portion of these animals as large as he could drag over the +snow. If the women were only cheerful before, they were now +absolutely frantic. A general shout of joy instantly re-echoed +through the village; they ran into each other's huts to +communicate the welcome intelligence, and actually hugged one +another in an ecstasy of delight by way of congratulation. One of +them, _Arnal=o=o~a_, a pretty young woman of nineteen or twenty, +knowing that a dog belonging to her husband was still at the huts, +and that there was no man to take him down on the ice, ran out +instantly to perform that office; and, with a hardihood not to be +surpassed by any of the men, returned, after two hours' absence, +with her load of walrus flesh, and without even the hood thrown +over her head to shelter her from the inclemency of the weather. + +When the first burst of joy had at length subsided, the women +crept, one by one, into the apartment where the first portion of +the seahorses had been conveyed, which is always that of one of +the men immediately concerned in the killing of them. Here they +obtained blubber enough to set all their lamps alight, besides a +few scraps of meat for their children and themselves. From this +time, which was nine o'clock, till past midnight, fresh cargoes +were continually arriving; the principal part being brought in by +the dogs, and the rest by the men, who, tying the thong which held +it round their waist, dragged in each his separate portion. Before +the whole was brought in, however, some of them went out three +times to the scene of action, though the distance was a mile and a +half. + +Every lamp now swimming with oil, the huts exhibited a blaze of +light, and never was there a scene of more joyous festivity than +while the operation of cutting up the walruses continued. I took +the opportunity, which their present good-humour afforded, to +obtain a perfect head and tusks of one of these animals, which we +had not been able to do before; and, indeed, so much were their +hearts opened by the scene of abundance before them, that I +believe they would have given us anything we asked for. This +disposition was considerably increased also by their taking into +their heads that their success was in some way or other connected +with, or even owing to, our having taken up our night's lodging at +the huts. + +After viewing all this festivity for some time, I felt disposed to +rest; and, wrapping myself up in my fur coat, lay down on one of +the beds which Illumea had given up for our accommodation, as well +as her _k=eipik_, or large deerskin blanket, which she rolled up +for my pillow. The poor old woman herself sat up by her lamp, and +in that posture seemed perfectly well satisfied to doze away the +night. The singularity of my night's lodging made me awake several +times, when I always found some of the Esquimaux eating, though, +after we lay down, they kept quite quiet for fear of disturbing +us. Mr. Halse, who was still more wakeful, told me that some of +them were incessantly employed in this manner for more than three +hours. Indeed, the quantity of meat that thus they contrive to get +rid of is almost beyond belief. + +Having at length enjoyed a sound nap, I found on waking, about +five o'clock, that the men were already up, and had gone out to +renew their labours on the ice, so that several of them could not +have rested more than two or three hours. This circumstance served +to correct a notion we had entertained, that, when once abundantly +supplied with food, they took no pains to obtain more till want +began again to stare them in the face. It was now more pleasing to +be assured that, even in the midst of plenty, they did not +indolently give themselves up to repose, but were willing to take +advantage of every favourable opportunity to increase their store. +It is certain, indeed, that, were these people more provident (or, +in other words, less gluttonous, for they do not waste much), they +might never know what it is to want provisions, even during the +most inclement part of the year. The state of the ice was to-day +very unfavourable for their purpose, being broken into pieces so +small that they could scarcely venture to walk upon it. + +The morning of the 5th proved favourable for a journey I had in +contemplation to the distant huts, to which Iligliuk, who had come +to Winter Island the day before, promised to be my guide. At six +o'clock I set out, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and two of the men, +carrying with us a supply of bread-dust, besides our own +provisions and blankets. As the distance was too great for her son +Sioutkuk to walk, we were uncertain, till the moment of setting +out, how this was to be managed, there being no sledge at hand for +the purpose. We found, however, that a man, whom we had observed +for some time at work among the hummocks of ice upon the beach, +had been employed in cutting out of that abundant material a neat +and serviceable little sledge, hollowed like a bowl or tray, out +of a solid block, and smoothly rounded at the bottom. The thong to +which the dogs were attached was secured to a groove cut round its +upper edge; and the young seal-catcher, seated in this simple +vehicle, was dragged along with great convenience and comfort. + +The ice over which we travelled was a level floe that had never +suffered disturbance since its first formation in the autumn, and +with not more than an inch and a half of snow upon it. The path +being distinctly marked out by the people, sledges, and dogs that +had before travelled upon it, one might, without any great stretch +of the imagination, have almost fancied it a road leading over a +level and extensive heath towards a more civilized and substantial +village than that which we were now approaching, Iligliuk walked +as nimbly as the best of us: and, after two hours' and a half +brisk travelling, we arrived at the huts, and were received by the +women (for all the men were absent) with every expression of +kindness and welcome. Each was desirous of affording us lodging, +and we had speedily arranged matters so as to put them to the +least possible inconvenience. + +These huts, four in number, were, in the mode of their +construction, exact counterparts of those at Winter Island on our +first visit, but, being new and clean, presented a striking +contrast with the latter, in their present disordered and filthy +state. What gave a peculiarity, as well as beauty also, to the +interior appearance of these habitations, was their being situated +on the ice, which, being cleared of the snow, presented a flooring +of that splendid blue which is, perhaps, one of the richest +colours that nature affords. A seal or two having been lately +procured, every lamp was now blazing, and every _=o=otk~ose~ek_ +smoking with a hot mess, which, together with the friendly +reception we experienced, and a little warmth and fatigue from +travelling, combined in conveying to our minds an idea of comfort +which we could scarcely believe an Esquimaux hut capable of +exciting. + +On the arrival of the men, who came in towards evening with two +seals as the reward of their labour, we were once more greeted and +welcomed. _Arnaneelia_, in particular, who was a quiet, obliging, +and even amiable man, was delighted to find my quarters were to be +in his apartment, where _An=e=etka_, his wife, a young woman of +about twenty-three, had already arranged everything for my +accommodation; and both these poor people now vied with each other +in their attention to my comfort. The other two apartments of the +same hut were occupied by Kaoongut and Okotook, with their +respective wives and families; it being the constant custom of +these people thus to unite in family groups whenever the nature of +their habitations will allow it. Mr. Bushnan being established +with Okotook, and the two men with Kaoongut, we were thus all +comfortably lodged under the same roof. + +Toolooak having been concerned in killing one of the seals just +brought in, it fell to his mother's lot to dissect it, the +_neitiek_ being the only animal which the women are permitted to +cut up. We had therefore an opportunity of seeing this filthy +operation once more performed, and entirely by the old lady +herself, who was soon up to her elbows in blood and oil. Before a +knife is put into the animal, as it lies on its back, they pour a +little water into its mouth, and touch each flipper and the middle +of the belly with a little lamp-black and oil taken from the under +part of the lamp. What benefit was expected from this preparatory +ceremony we could not learn, but it was done with a degree of +superstitious care and seriousness, that bespoke its indispensable +importance. The boys came eagerly into the hut as usual, and held +out their foreheads for the old woman to stick the charms upon +them; and it was not till now that we learned from Iligliuk the +efficacy of this very useful custom. As soon as this dirty +operation was at an end, during which the numerous by-standers +amused themselves in chewing the intestines of the seal, the +strangers retired to their own huts, each bearing a small portion +of the flesh and blubber, while our hosts enjoyed a hearty meal of +boiled meat and hot gravy soup. Young Sioutkuk ate at least three +pounds of solid meat in the first three hours after our arrival at +the huts, besides a tolerable proportion of soup, all which his +mother gave him whenever he asked it, without the smallest remark +of any kind. We now found that they depended on catching seals +alone for their subsistence, there being no walruses in this +neighbourhood. As they were several miles from any open water, +their mode of killing them was entirely confined to watching for +the animals coming up in the holes they make through the ice. + +In the course of the evening our conversation happened to turn on +the Indians, a people whom none of these Esquimaux had ever seen; +but with whose ferocity and decided hostility to their own nation +they seemed to be well acquainted. They described, also, their +peculiar manner of paddling their canoes, and were aware that they +made use of the kind of show-shoes which we showed them. When I +related to them, as well as I was able, the massacre of the +Esquimaux recorded by Hearne, and gave them to understand that the +Indians spared neither age nor sex, it seemed to chill them with +horror, and I was almost sorry that I had told them the story. + +_April 11._--We were now glad to begin making some show of +re-equipping the ships for sea; for though this was a business +that might, if necessary, have been very well accomplished in two +or three weeks, it was better to employ the men in occupations +having an evident and determinate object, than in those less +obviously useful ones to which it was necessary to resort during +the winter. We therefore brought down some of the boats to the +ships to repair, put up the forge on the ice, and built a snow +house over it, and set about various other jobs, which made the +neighbourhood of the ships assume a busy and bustling appearance. + +I had to-day a visit from Okotook and Iligliuk, who, with their +son, came in upon their sledge from the distant huts. Being +desirous of entertaining them well, in return for their late +hospitality, we provided abundance to eat, and showed them +everything about the ship that we thought likely to amuse them. Of +all the wonders they had ever seen on board, there was nothing +which seemed to impress them so strongly with a sense of our +superiority as the forge, and the work which the armourer +performed with it. The welding of two pieces of iron especially +excited their admiration, and I never saw Iligliuk express so much +astonishment at anything before. Even in this her superior good +sense was observable, for it was evident that the utility of what +she saw going on was what forced itself upon her mind; and she +watched every stroke of the hammer and each blast of the bellows +with extreme eagerness, while numbers of the other Esquimaux +looked stupidly on, without expressing the smallest curiosity or +interest in the operation, except by desiring to have some +spear-heads fashioned out by this means. Iligliuk was always very +much entertained also by pictures having any relation to the +Esquimaux in other parts, and derived great entertainment from a +description of any difference in their clothes, utensils, or +weapons. Of these the sail in an Esquimaux boat seemed particularly +to attract her notice; but, in general, she had no inclination +to admit the inferiority of her, own tribe to any other. She +was always extremely inquisitive about her own sex, whether +_Innuees_[*] or _Kabloonas_, listening with eager attention to any +account of their dress or occupations, and in common, I believe, +with all the rest of the Esquimaux, wondered how we came to travel +to their country without our wives. The assurance that many among +us were not married, they received with evident incredulity. + +[Footnote: Esquimaux.] + +On the 13th, a number of the natives from the Winter Island huts +formed a second detachment, and set off for the other village. +They carried their goods on sledges as before, even to the +exclusion of poor old Hikkeiera, whom some of our gentlemen +overtook crawling after his companions with a stick, and who, but +for their remonstrances, might that day have finished his +pilgrimage on earth. They insisted, however, on his being placed +on one of the sledges, which was accordingly complied with; but, +on their arrival at the village, his companions left him lying +there till their huts were built. All the Esquimaux pressed our +gentlemen very strongly to sleep at the village; but one of the +women gave Mr. Bird an indifferent specimen of her hospitality, by +picking his pocket of a handkerchief, though not so dexterously as +to escape detection. The few who visited the ships to-day told us +that they were all about to leave Winter Island on the morrow; and +Okotook and Iligliuk, who had not yet returned, came on board +among the rest to pay a last visit. I gave the former a large +piece of oak wood for a bow and two arrows, a second iron +spear-head, and various other articles, to add to the stock of +wealth he had from time to time received from us. As these good +folks found themselves perfectly at home in my cabin, I was +usually in the habit of continuing my occupations when they were +there, without being disturbed by them. Being now engaged in +writing, my attention was unexpectedly directed towards them by +Iligliuk's suddenly starting from her seat, moving quickly towards +the door, and, without saying a word either to me or any of the +officers present, hastening directly on deck. Okotook, indeed, as +he followed her out of the cabin, turned round and said "Good-by," +of which expression he had learned the meaning, and then, without +giving us time to return the compliment, they both hurried out of +the ship, leaving us in some astonishment at this singular +leave-taking, which we then supposed to be the last. + +We could now begin to perceive, from day to day, that the snow on +shore was diminishing. How slow this process was, may, however, be +understood by the fact, that it was necessary to make a mark on +some stone to be assured it was thus receding. Our snow-wall had +indeed settled down nearly a foot by the gradual diminution of the +blocks of which it was composed; but the thawing had been +artificially assisted by the black cloth hung against it. Five +ravens were seen to-day, all quite black; four of them were flying +in pairs. + +On the 22d a number of the Esquimaux came to the ships with a +sledge, and among the rest my late host Arnaneelia and his wife, +the latter having the front of her jacket adorned with numberless +strings of beads that we had given her, arranged with exact +uniformity, to which, in the fashion of their dresses and the +disposition of their ornaments, these people always rigidly +adhere. Aneekta had scarcely reached the cabin when she produced a +little ivory comb and a pair of handsome mittens, which she +presented to Mr. Edwards, at the same time thanking him for the +attention he had shown her on an occasion when she had been taken +in a fit alongside the Fury, from which she was recovered by +bleeding. This expression of gratitude, in which she was heartily +joined by her husband, was extremely gratifying to us; as it +served, in some degree, to redeem these people in our estimation +from the imputation of ingratitude, which is, indeed, one of their +greatest failings. They stated having seen two reindeer the +preceding day going over the ice to the main land. They spoke of +this with great pleasure: and we were ourselves not displeased +with the prospect of changing our diet for a little venison. They +now became extremely urgent with us for wood to make bows and +arrows, most of their own having, with the childishness that +accompanied their first barterings, been parted with to our +officers and men. Having several broken oars which could be turned +to little or no account on board, we were enabled, at a small +expense of useful stores, to furnish them very abundantly with +wood for this purpose. Arnaneelia also informed us that Okotook, +who had been unwell for some days, was now much worse, and seemed, +as he described it, to be labouring under a violent pulmonary +complaint. On the circumstance being mentioned to Mr. Skeoch, he +kindly volunteered to go to the village, and accordingly took his +seat on the sledge, accompanied also by Mr. Sherer. They carried +with them a quantity of bread-dust to be distributed among the +Esquimaux at the huts, their success in seal-catching having +lately been indifferent. + +A number of Esquimaux came to the ships on the 25th, +notwithstanding a strong breeze from the S.W.b.W., with a +considerable snowdrift. From these people we learned that +Okotook's complaint had increased since Mr. Skeoch's visit, and +that he was now extremely ill. Mr. Bushnan immediately offered to +go to the huts for the purpose of bringing him on board, where, by +Mr. Edwards's kind attentions, and the enjoyment of warmth and +dryness, we hoped soon to recover him. Mr. Bushnan, therefore, +without waiting for the return of the sledges, set out for the +village at an early hour in the forenoon, accompanied by the +sergeant of marines. At eleven at night our party returned on +board, bringing on a sledge Okotook, Iligliuk, and their son. That +Iligliuk would accompany her husband, I, of course, took for +granted and wished; but as the boy could do us no good, and was, +moreover, a desperate eater, I had desired Mr. Bushnan to try +whether a slight objection to his being of the party would induce +Okotook to leave him with his other relations. This he had +cautiously done; but, the instant the proposal was made, Okotook, +without any remark, began to take off the clothes he had himself +just dressed in to set out. No farther objection being made, +however, he again prepared for the journey, Iligliuk assisting him +with the most attentive solicitude. Before the invalid was +suffered to leave his apartment, some of the by-standers sent for +Ewerat, now better known to our people by the undignified +appellation of the "conjuror." Ewerat, on this occasion, +maintained a degree of gravity and reserve calculated to inspire +somewhat more respect than we had hitherto been disposed to +entertain for him in that capacity. Placing himself at the door of +the apartment opposite Okotook, who was still seated on the bed, +he held both his thumbs in his mouth, keeping up a silent but +solemn converse with his _toorngow_,[*] the object of which was, +as Mr. Bushnan presently afterward found, to inquire into the +efficacy and propriety of the sick man's removal. Presently he +began to utter a variety of confused and inarticulate sounds; and +it being at length understood that a favourable answer had been +given, Okotook was carried out and placed on the sledge, Ewerat +still mumbling his thumbs and muttering his incantations as +before. When the party took their leave, there were a great many +doleful faces among those that remained behind; and Mr. Bushnan +said that the whole scene more resembled the preparations for a +funeral than the mere removal of a sick man. When the sledge moved +on, Ewerat was the only one who had not a "Good-by!" ready, he +being as seriously engaged as at first, and continuing so as long +as our people could observe him. + +[Footnote: Familiar spirit.] + +Okotook was extremely ill on his arrival, having been three hours +on the sledge, and Iligliuk, who, as Mr. Bushnan told me, had +scarcely taken her eyes off her husband's face the whole time, +seemed almost worn out with fatigue and anxiety. A bed of wolf +skins being prepared for him, Okotook was soon placed upon it, and +such remedies applied as Mr. Edwards judged necessary for his +complaint, which was inflammation of the lungs to a degree that, +if left to itself, or even to Ewerat, would soon have proved +fatal, or, at best, have terminated in consumption. + +On the 26th, a southeast wind brought a heavy fall of snow in +flakes much larger than before. The thermometers on the ice at +noon stood at 23 deg. in both aspects. We heard from Illumea, who came +to see her son Okotook, that a part of the natives had gone still +farther to the westward upon the ice, one spot not affording +sufficient subsistence for the whole of them. Our patient felt +much the better for a comfortable night's lodging, and now +submitted with great patience to the application of a blister, +though I believe his confidence in our mode of cure was afterward +shaken for a time by the pain which it occasioned. Both he and +Iligliuk, however, seemed very sensibly to feel the comforts and +advantages of their present quarters; and a "coyenna" (thanks) now +and then fell from their lips. Nothing could exceed the attention +which the latter paid to her husband; she kept her eyes almost +constantly fixed upon him, and seemed anxious to anticipate every +want. + +One of Okotook's brothers had arrived from the huts, bringing with +him some walrus-flesh to tempt the appetite of the invalid, whose +stomach, however, very fortunately for his complaint, was not +disposed to this kind of delicacy. When his brother was about to +return, Okotook took it into his head to send his son away with +him, probably because he heard they had the day before killed two +seals, which afforded better feeding than we had to give him; be +this as it may, we were not sorry that he went, and the boy +himself seemed no less pleased; for, without playfellows or +amusement of any kind, his time hung very heavily on his hands +while he remained on board. It was amusing to see Okotook take a +dose of physic for the first time in his life to-day. He knew its +taste was not pleasant, but this was certainly not all that he +dreaded; for, before he put the cup to his lips with one hand, he +held on by his wife with the other, and she by him with both hers, +as though they expected an explosion, or some such catastrophe, as +the immediate effect of the potion; nor did he venture to relinquish +his hold till the taste began to leave his mouth. The quantity of +water which he drank in the course of the four-and-twenty hours +is beyond conception; and the cabin fire could scarcely, by the +melting of snow, furnish enough for their consumption. These people +are extremely particular as to the purity of the water they drink. +Some that had been melted in our steamer, and which I thought very +good, neither of them would touch, or, at least, always spat out +again. If the water was much above the temperature of 32 deg., they +also disliked it, and immediately put snow into it to cool it +down. Iligliuk, who came on board with one side of her hair loose, +loosened the other also to-day, in consequence of her fancying +Okotook worse, though it was only the annoyance of the blister that +made him uneasy; for even in this sequestered corner of the globe +dishevelled locks bespeak mourning. It was not, however, with her +the mere semblance of grief, for she was really much distressed +throughout the day, all our endeavours not availing to make her +understand how one pain was to be removed by inflicting another. + +Captain Lyon being desirous of having some little clothes made as +models of the Esquimaux costume, and thinking Iligliuk's present +leisure afforded her a good opportunity of making them, had +yesterday obtained her promise that she would do so. Okotook being +now very much better, and she having herself resumed her usual +gayety in consequence, I pressed her to commence her work, and +placed the skins before her, when she said that she could not do +them here, as she had no needles. These being supplied her, she +now complained of, having no _t=o=okt~oo-e-w=all~oo_ (reindeer +sinew), their usual thread. This difficulty, unfortunately for +Iligliuk's credit, was as easily overcome as the other; and when +scissors, pattern clothes, and all the other requisites were laid +before her, she was at length driven to the excuse that Okotook's +illness would not permit her to do it. Seeing us half laughing at +the absurdity of these excuses, and half angry at the selfish +indolence which prompted them, she at last flatly asserted that +Okotook desired her not to work, which, though we knew it to be a +falsehood, the latter did not deny. We then supposed that some +superstition might be at the bottom of this; but having, a little +while after, by way of experiment, thrown Iligliuk some loose +beads upon the table, she eagerly employed herself for half an +hour in stringing them that not one might be lost; which proved +that, where her own gratification or interest were concerned, +Okotook's illness was not suffered to interfere. This anecdote +shows, in a strong light, that deep-rooted selfishness, which, in +numberless instances, notwithstanding the superiority of +Iligliuk's understanding, detracted from the amiability of her +disposition. The fact was, that she did not feel inclined so far +to exert herself as to comply with Captain Lyon's request; and the +slight degree of gratitude and proper feeling which was requisite +to overcome that disinclination was altogether wanting. + +I have related this anecdote just as it occurred, with the hope of +showing the true disposition of these people, and not with a view +of unduly depreciating the character of our friend Iligliuk. I am, +however, compelled to acknowledge, that, in proportion as the +superior understanding of this extraordinary woman became more and +more developed, her head (for what female head is indifferent to +praise?) began to be turned with the general attention and +numberless presents she received. The superior decency and even +modesty of her behaviour had combined, with her intellectual +qualities, to raise her, in our estimation, far above her +companions; and I often heard others express what I could not but +agree in, that for Iligliuk alone, of all the Esquimaux women, +that kind of respect could be entertained which modesty in a +female never fails to command in our sex. Thus regarded, she had +always been freely admitted into the ships, the quartermasters at +the gangway never thinking of refusing entrance to the "wise +woman," as they called her. Whenever any explanation was necessary +between the Esquimaux and us, Iligliuk was sent for as an +interpreter; information was chiefly obtained through her, and she +thus found herself rising into a degree of consequence to which, +but for us, she could never have attained. Notwithstanding a more +than ordinary share of good sense on her part, it will not, +therefore, be wondered at if she became giddy with her exaltation, +assuming certain airs which, though infinitely diversified in +their operation according to circumstances, perhaps universally +attend a too sudden accession of good fortune in every child of +Adam from the equator to the poles. The consequence was, that +Iligliuk was soon spoiled; considered her admission into the ships +and most of the cabins no longer as an indulgence, but a right; +ceased to return the slightest acknowledgment for any kindness or +presents; became listless and inattentive in unravelling the +meaning of our questions, and careless whether her answers +conveyed the information we desired. In short, Iligliuk in +February and Iligliuk in April were confessedly very different +persons; and it was at last amusing to recollect, though not very +easy to persuade one's self, that the woman who now sat demurely +in a chair, so confidently expecting the notice of those around +her, and she who had at first, with eager and wild delight, +assisted in cutting snow for the building of a hut, and with the +hope of obtaining a single needle, were actually one and the same +individual. + +Togolat came down to the ships to-day to see her brother Okotook; +she was accompanied by Arnalooa, and on their arrival they were +both sent for into the cabin. We observed, however, that they +required an unusual degree of solicitation to make them go near +Okotook, or even to the side of the cabin, where he lay concealed +by a screen; and, after all, they remained in the opposite corner +next the door; and, having talked freely to the invalid for some +time, took their leave without seeing him. In the evening, after +they were gone, we found that this unfortunate though well-intended +visit was occasioning great distress to Okotook, who talked for two +hours almost incessantly about "Arnalooa's having seen him," which, +it seems, ought not to have been the case. What misfortune was to +be apprehended in consequent of this event we could not learn; but +he spoke of it in a kind of agony, and was evidently labouring +under the influence of some powerful though absurd superstition +respecting it. Towards night he suffered a dreadful bleeding at the +nose, followed by much sickness at the stomach, which, together +with the phanton of Arnalooa, that still haunted his imagination, +combined to make him extremely unwell for some hours. The next day, +however, he was free from complaint of any kind, and began once +more to put on a smiling countenance. + +The caulking of our bows being now completed, the ships were +released from the ice by sawing round them; an operation which +caused them to rise in the water six inches and a half, in +consequence of the increased buoyancy occasioned by the winter's +expenditure. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party +despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise +Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of +Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, +and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the +Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through +the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John +Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the +Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made +there. + + +As there was an increased extent of open water in the offing, and +the weather being now, to all appearance, tolerably settled, I +determined on sending away a travelling party under Captain Lyon. +It consisted of Lieutenant Palmer, five seamen, and three marines, +the whole being victualled for twenty days, and furnished with a +tent, fuel, and every other convenience of which such a journey +would admit. The baggage was placed on light sledges, resembling +those used by Captain Franklin on his late journey to the shores +of the Polar Sea, made out of staves shaved thin, six feet eight +inches long, fourteen inches broad, and turned up before. Being +secured entirely with thongs of hide sunk by grooves into the wood +to keep them from wearing, they were perfectly flexible, so as to +be in no danger of breaking on uneven ground. Each individual of +the party was furnished with one of these, which also served to +sleep and sit upon; the weight dragged by each of the men being +about one hundred and twenty pounds, and that of the officers from +ninety to ninety-five. Each person had also a pair of snow-shoes, +a deerskin jacket and boots for sleeping in, and another pair of +boots of water-tight sealskin. + +The general tenour of Captain Lyon's instructions was, "after +crossing to the continent, to proceed along that coast to the +northward, carefully examining any bend or inlet he might meet +with, so as to leave no doubt, if possible, of its actual extent +and communications, thereby preventing the necessity of the ships +entering it on their arrival there." I added, also, the necessary +directions for remarking everything of interest relating to the +tides, and the natural productions of the country; and I limited +Captain Lyon to the end of the month in returning, to avoid the +possibility of detaining the expedition. + +Their preparations being completed, our travellers left the ships +under a salute of three cheers from both the crews, and +accompanied by a large party of officers and men to assist them, +for the first few hours. A day or two after their departures a +supply of provisions was lodged on shore, according to a plan +previously agreed on, in case of our being forced out to sea with +the ice before their return. Arrangements were also made for +putting an officer and two men on shore, as a guard to this as +well as to the clock, tent, or any other articles that might be +left behind, in the event of an occurrence of this nature. + +In the course of the forenoon of the 15th, a message to our +medical gentlemen announced the fall of James Pringle, one of the +seamen of the Hecla, from her mizen-topmast-head to the deck; and +in a few minutes after I was much shocked in receiving Lieutenant +Hoppner's report of his death, no sign of life having indeed +appeared in him from the first moment after his fall. On +examination, it was found that the base of the scull was +fractured, and the neck also dislocated. A grave was directed to +be dug near the observatory, and arrangements were made for the +funeral taking place on the following Sunday. + +On the 16th, Ewerat, with his wife and family, arrived at the +ships, bringing with them all their goods and chattels, and with +the intention of taking up their abode upon the ice near us. They +accordingly built their hut about a hundred yards from the Fury's +stern, but whether with the view of living upon us, or the seals +that frequent the bay, we were at first at a loss to conjecture. +Ewerat's household consisted not only of his own family, but of +Appokiuk and Itkamuk, the former of whom having no husband, and +the latter no relative, they both seemed to be fairly "on the +parish." Besides this establishment, a second, on a smaller scale, +also made its appearance in our neighbourhood, consisting of a +very little man, named _Koo-il-li-ti-uk_, nicknamed by the sailors +"John Bull," and his pretty little wife _Arnal=o=oa_, whose zeal +in bringing up her husband's share of the seahorses I have before +described. These persons, being eight in number, had determined on +travelling to Amitioke for the ensuing summer, influenced +probably, in some degree, by the hope of falling in with us again, +as they knew that we were going in that direction. Be this, +however, as it may, it was soon evident that they intended making +the most of us while we remained neighbours; for, on the 17th, +though the weather was favourable, and they had no food of their +own, they made no effort to procure any, except from the ships, to +which the women brought their _ootkooseeks_ for bread-dust. Though +I objected to encouraging this, and told them we should give them +nothing if they did not also labour for themselves, they were all +such favourites with our people that I believe they found it +answer very well; contriving not only to get plenty of food, but +also a number of useful presents. They made, indeed, some return +for this, by the usual barter of mittens, of which our people were +now furnished with an abundant supply. + +On the 19th, after an impressive sermon delivered by Mr. Fisher, +the last mournful duties were performed over the remains of our +deceased shipmate. Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the +evening of the 21st, when, soon after eight o'clock, Captain Lyon +and his party were seen on their return over the hills, and, being +met by a number of the officers and men from the ships, arrived on +board before ten, when I was happy to find our travellers in good +health, excepting a little snow-blindness and "foot-foundering," +of which they soon recovered. The result of this journey of +Captain Lyon's served to excite very reasonable hopes that he had +seen the northeastern extreme of the great peninsula, round which +we entertained the most sanguine expectations of shortly finding +the desired passage into the Polar Sea. + +On the 23d, our neighbours the Esquimaux, who had long, by their +own account, been setting off for Amitioke, at length began in +earnest to pack up for their departure. As soon as their +preparations were finished, I sent for them all on board, and gave +them one of their own sledges, of which they were much in want, +for carrying their goods, a couple of boarding-pikes, some knives, +and several tin canisters filled with bread-dust, for their +journey. These presents had scarcely been made them, when we had +reason to apprehend so sudden an influx of wealth might produce +serious effects, especially upon the women, whose joy threw them +into immoderate fits of laughter, almost amounting to hysterics, +which were succeeded by a flood of tears. The men seemed thankful, +though less noisy in the expression of their acknowledgments. As +soon as some degree of composure was restored, we accompanied them +to their baggage, which they had stowed on two of the small +travelling sledges given them by Captain Lyon, but which they now +shifted to their own. When all was ready, and some other valuable +presents had been added to their stock by Captain Lyon, they +proceeded to the northward, the women assisting to drag the +sledge, for they had only one large dog and one puppy. On taking +their departure, these good-humoured and ever-cheerful people +greeted us with three cheers in the true Kabloona style, a mode of +salutation they had observed once or twice among us, and +frequently practised for their amusement and ours. On the 24th, we +found they had only proceeded a few miles, as "John Bull" once +more made his appearance on board, and returned to his companions +in the evening. From this specimen of their travelling, of which +we had, as yet, little experience, we had great reason to hope +that their days' journeys would be found but short ones, and that, +therefore, our distance round the northeastern point of the +American continent was not very considerable. The show fell +softer, and more melting was going on to-day than on any before +observed, though only a few black tips of the rocks were yet +visible on shore. The animals now began to appear in greater +numbers; for on the 25th, a flock of nearly two hundred +long-tailed ducks were swimming about in the open water to the +southeast of the point. Some of the Esquimaux who came from the +nearest western village also reported having seen a great many +reindeer; but they had not yet succeeded in killing any. + +At the close of the month of May it was a matter of general +observation, and, of course, of general regret, how few symptoms +of thawing had yet appeared, either on shore or on the ice. +Naturally pursuing our usual comparison with the circumstances of +the former winter passed in these regions, it was impossible not +to recollect that Melville Island had, on the same day two years +before, advanced full as far as the country now before us in +throwing off its winter covering. The parts of the land which were +now the most bare were the smooth round tops of the hills, on +which here and there occurred a little pool of water, from which, +taking all together within half a mile round the ships, we should +at this time have had great difficulty in filling half a tun. +There were also on the lower lands, a few dark uncovered patches, +looking, when viewed from the hills, like islets in an extensive +sea. Vegetation seemed labouring to commence, and a few tufts of +the _saxifraga oppositifolia_, when closely examined, discovered +some signs of life. A botanist, in short, might have considered +vegetation as begun, but in the popular acceptation of the word it +certainly had not. Such was the state of things on shore at the +conclusion of the month of May. Upon the ice appearances were not +more promising. Except in the immediate neighbourhood of the +ships, where, from the constant trampling and the laying of +various stores upon the ice, some heat had artificially been +absorbed, it would have been difficult to point out in what +respect any advances towards dissolution had been made upon the +upper surface, where six or seven inches of snow yet remained in +every part. Here again, without any undue partiality for our old +winter-quarters, it was natural, as well as reasonable, to bear in +mind, that before this time we had there experienced several hours +of hard rain, than which nothing proves more effectual in +dissolving the ice. The consequence was, that for the last week in +May, at Melville Island, the surface of the ice had assumed quite +a green appearance; while here it was still as white as a covering +of snow could make it. + +Under these circumstances I came to the determination, now that +the ships were ready for sea, to try what could be effected +towards their release, by sawing and cutting the ice; for it was +vexatious to see open water daily in the offing, and not to be +able to take advantage of it. Arrangements were therefore made for +getting everything, except the tent and instruments, on board the +next day, and for commencing this more laborious occupation on the +following Monday. + +On the 1st of June, having launched a boat at the mouth of the +bay, I went to sound in that neighbourhood and along the eastern +side of the island, preparatory to marking out the intended canal. +A good deal of ice still remained attached to the land; but as far +as we could distinguish to the N.N.E. there was a lane of clear +water wide enough for the navigation of the ships. + +On the morning of the 3d, at six A.M., both the ships' companies, +under their respective officers, were set to work upon the ice. A +line was accurately marked out from each of the Fury's quarters, +where they were fifty feet apart, diverging to two hundred and +fifty at the edge of the floe, the latter being distant from the +ships two thousand and twenty feet, or just one third of a +nautical mile. It was proposed to make a cut through the ice with +the saws, along the two lines thus marked out, and then a +transverse section here and there, the divergency of the sides +being intended to facilitate the removal of the pieces thus +detached by first pulling them out with strong purchases, and then +floating them down the canal to the sea without. Nothing could +exceed the alacrity with which this laborious work was undertaken, +and continued daily from six in the morning till eight at night, +with the intermission only of mealtimes: nor could anything be +more lively and interesting than the scene which now presented +itself to an observer on the southeast point. The day was +beautifully clear, the sea open as far as the eye could stretch to +the northward, and the "busy hum" of our people's voices could at +times be heard mingling with the cheerful though fantastic songs +with which the Greenland sailors are accustomed at once to beguile +their labour, and to keep the necessary time in the action of +sawing the ice. The whole prospect, together with the hopes and +associations excited by it, was, to persons cooped up as we had +been, exhilarating beyond conception. + +In the course of the first week we had completed the two side +cuts, and also two shorter ones in the space between the ships; +making in all a length of two thousand three hundred feet on each +side of the intended canal, the thickness of the ice being in +general four feet, but in one or two places (where the junction of +the sea-ice with the bay-floe occasioned some squeezing) above ten +feet and a half, scarcely allowing our longest saws to work. +Laborious as this part of the operation had been, we soon found it +likely to prove the least troublesome of the whole; for, on +endeavouring to pull out the pieces in the manner at first +intended, every effort failed, till at length we were reduced to +the necessity of cutting each block diagonally before it could be +moved from its place. After a week's experience, we also learned +that much time had been lost in completing the whole of the +lateral cuts at once; for these, partly from frost, and partly by +the closing together of the sides of the canal, all required +sawing a second, and in some places even a third time. It was +surprising, also, to see how powerful a resistance was occasioned +by the "sludge" produced in sawing, or, as the sailors called it, +the "sawdust," continuing in the cut, and appearing to act, like +oil interposed between two plates of glass, in keeping the masses +united. In some cases, also, a saw was squeezed so tight by the +pressure of the ice in the cut, that it became necessary to enter +a second in order to release it, by sawing out a circular plug of +ice completely round it. Fatiguing as this work proved to the men, +I directed it to be continued to-day, the sea remaining so open on +the outside as to give every encouragement to our exertions. + +One of our people, in walking over the island, met with a swan's +nest, which Captain Lyon went out to see, and made a drawing of +it. It was built of moss-peat, being no less than five feet ten +inches in length, four feet nine inches wide, and two feet deep. +The hole of entrance in the top was eighteen inches wide. Two +eggs, each weighing about eight ounces, were found in the nest, in +which the old birds were also sitting at first, but too wild to be +approached. The eggs are of a cream or brownish white colour, in +some parts a little clouded by a darker tinge. The female +subsequently laid a third egg, and soon afterward both birds +appeared to have wholly deserted the nest. + +In the second week our progress with the canal had been +considerable, it being now completed within two hundred yards of +the Fury's stern. + +At the conclusion of the day's labour on the 19th, we had every +prospect of getting to sea in forty-eight hours more; but, early +on the following morning, when the ebb or northeasterly tide had +made, and was assisted by a breeze from the southward, the whole +body of sea-ice came forcibly in contact with the bay-floe, which +was now so weakened by our cutting as to split the whole way from +the edge up to the Hecla's stern, a little to the westward of the +canal, the latter being almost immediately closed with a +considerable crush, but without affecting the ships which lay +beyond it. The closing of our artificial canal had the effect of +partially opening a natural one at the place where the ice had +just been detached; but, as this was incomplete, coming gradually +up to a point astern of the Hecla, we were at a loss to know on +which of the two our labour would best be employed. An attempt was +first made by four strong purchases, stretched from side to side +across the new crack, to pull the parts together again, and thus +to leave our original canal _in statu quo_. All our power, +however, being insufficient to accomplish this, we commenced with +the saws upon the upper part of the crack, with the intention of +widening it sufficiently for the passage of the ships. In this +work we had made considerable progress, when, towards evening, it +was perceived that _this_ was now closing, and our former canal +reopening by the action of the wind and tide. Relinquishing our +last attempt, therefore, we lost no time in floating some heavy +pieces of ice into the canal, to serve as wedges for keeping the +sides apart, in case of any fresh pressure from without again +disposing them to close. + +At two A.M. on the 21st, the piece of the floe which formed the +separation between the two canals drifted bodily outward, as far +as the rocks at the mouth of the bay and the ice that lay upon +them would permit, taking with it a heavy-grounded mass that lay +near the Hecla, and on which it had before been turning as on a +pile or pivot; shortly after a second mass on the eastern side of +the canal broke off, the separation taking place upon the line +where the ice had been weakened by the sand we had laid upon it. +Our work was now at an end, and we had only to wait for a +northerly or westerly wind to release us from our present +"besetment," for, in fact, it was now nothing more. Directions +were therefore given for closely watching the motion of the ice, +both from the ships as well as by regular visits to the shore at +the end of every watch. + +It now becomes my painful duty to turn from these busy +occupations, where animation, cheerfulness, and hope prevailed, to +the sad and solemn scenes of sickness and death; for with both of +these did it please the Almighty to visit us at this period! +William Souter, quartermaster of the Fury, who, in the early part +of this week, had complained of a slight sickness at the stomach, +and, having been quite relieved, was, in consequence, discharged +to duty, was again, on the morning of the 21st, affected in a +similar manner while on deck. On the 24th, his alarming symptoms +had so much subsided, that increasing hopes were entertained of +his continuing to do well. These flattering appearances, however, +received a sudden check about noon on the 25th, after which time +he began rapidly, though gradually, to droop, and between six and +seven in the evening breathed his last. + +The impossibility of removing Souter from the sick bay, after the +last alarming change took place, rendered his death, or, rather, +the convulsive struggles which for some hours preceded that event, +a dreadful trial to poor Reid, whose state had for some time past +been scarcely better, the difficulty in his breathing having +increased to a most distressing degree. When Souter was dying, +Reid remarked that he should not be long after him; and on the +26th, when Mr. Fisher had attended and prayed with him, he said +that he should go at one bell (half past six), and then enumerated +all his clothes to one of the men, who, at his request, wrote them +down for him. After four o'clock he did not speak, and, gradually +sinking, expired at the time he had mentioned. + +On the 28th, the remains of our deceased shipmates were committed +to the earth, with every solemnity that so mournful an occasion +demanded. They were interred in one grave, on a rising ground a +few hundred yards from the sea to the northeastward of the ships. +A handsome tomb of stone and mortar was built over the spot, +having at one end a stone let in, with the usual information +engraved on it. The sides were plastered with a kind of viscous +clay found in one of the ponds, and the top covered with tufts of +the purple saxifrage. The duties of the ships now permitting it, +Captain Lyon employed his men in building a similar tomb over the +grave of Pringle. + + +END OF VOL. I. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A +NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN +ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 1 (OF 2)*** + + +******* This file should be named 13512.txt or 13512.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/5/1/13512 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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