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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13245 ***
+
+This eBook was produced by Philip H Hitchcock
+
+
+
+
+
+About the online edition.
+
+Italics are represented as /italics/.
+
+   THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+           by
+
+      J. WELLS, M.A.
+Warden of Wadham College, Oxford
+
+     Illustrated by
+     W. G. BLACKALL
+
+
+Second Edition (Revised)
+
+SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON
+KENT & CO., LTD., 4 STATIONERS'
+HALL COURT : : LONDON, E.C.4
+
+Copyright
+First published 1920
+Second edition 1921
+
+
+    "'Home of lost causes'--this is Oxford's blame;
+      'Mother of movements'--this, too, boasteth she;
+     In the same walls, the same yet not the same,
+      She welcomes those who lead the age-to-be."
+
+
+    "Much have ye suffered from time's gnawing tooth,
+     Yet, O ye spires of Oxford domes and towers,
+     Gardens and groves, your presence overpowers
+     The soberness of reason."
+                                 WORDSWORTH.
+
+ [Plate 1. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Garden]
+
+
+THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+There are many books on Oxford; the justification for this new one is
+Mr. Blackall's drawings. They will serve by their grace and charm
+pleasantly to recall to those who know Oxford the scenes they love;
+they will incite those who do not know Oxford to remedy that defect
+in their lives.
+
+My own letterpress is only written to accompany the drawings.  It is
+intended to remind Oxford men of the things they know or ought to
+know; it is intended still more to help those who have not visited
+Oxford to understand the drawings and to appreciate some of the
+historical associations of the scenes represented.
+
+I have written quite freely, as this seemed the best way to create
+the "impression" wished. I have to acknowledge some obligations to
+Messrs. Seccombe & Scott's /Praise of Oxford/, a book the pages of
+which an Oxford man can always turn over with pleasure, and to Mr. J.
+B. Firth's /Minstrelsy of Isis/; it is not his fault that the poetic
+merit of so much of his collection is poor. Oxford has not on the
+whole been fortunate in her poets. My own quotations are more often
+chosen for their local colour than for their poetic merit.
+
+I have unavoidably had to borrow a good deal from my own /Oxford and
+its Colleges/, but the aim of the two books is very different.
+
+  WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD,
+      April 1920.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ INTRODUCTION
+ RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+ THE BROAD STREET
+ BALLIOL COLLEGE
+ MERTON COLLEGE
+ MERTON LIBRARY
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+ QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+ NEW COLLEGE: (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+ NEW COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ LINCOLN COLLEGE
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+ CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (3) "TOM" TOWER
+ ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (1) THE BUILDINGS
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ HERTFORD COLLEGE
+ ST. EDMUND HALL
+ IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+     I CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE GARDEN
+    II ST. MARY'S SPIRE
+   III VIEW IN RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+    IV SHELDONIAN THEATRE, ETC., BROAD STREET
+     V BALLIOL COLLEGE, BROAD STREET FRONT
+    VI MERTON COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   VII MERTON COLLEGE, THE LIBRARY INTERIOR
+  VIII ORIEL COLLEGE AND ST. MARY'S CHURCH
+    IX HIGH STREET
+     X NEW COLLEGE, THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY
+    XI NEW COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   XII LINCOLN COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL INTERIOR
+  XIII MAGDALEN TOWER
+   XIV MAGDALEN COLLEGE, THE OPEN AIR PULPIT
+    XV BRASENOSE COLLEGE, QUADRANGLE AND THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY
+   XVI CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, THE FIRST QUADRANGLE
+  XVII CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE MEADOW
+ XVIII CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL STAIRCASE
+   XIX CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL INTERIOR
+    XX CHRIST CHURCH, "TOM" TOWER
+   XXI ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE GARDEN FRONT
+  XXII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL FROM THE GARDEN
+ XXIII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE HALL INTERIOR
+  XXIV HERTFORD COLLEGE, THE BRIDGE
+   XXV ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH AND ST. EDMUND HALL
+  XXVI IFFLEY, THE OLD MILL
+       OXFORD FROM THE EAST [End papers]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+In what does the charm of Oxford consist? Why does she stand out
+among the cities of the world as one of those most deserving a visit?
+It can hardly be said to be for the beauty of her natural
+surroundings. In spite of the charm of her
+
+    "Rivers twain of gentle foot that pass
+     Through the rich meadow-land of long green grass,"
+
+in spite of her trees and gardens, which attract a visitor,
+especially one from the more barren north, Oxford must yield the palm
+of natural beauty to many English towns, not to mention those more
+remote.
+
+But she has every other claim, and first, perhaps, may be mentioned
+that of historic interest.
+
+An Englishman who knows anything of history is not likely to forget
+of how many striking events in the development of his country Oxford
+has been the scene. The element of romance is furnished early in her
+story by the daring escape of the Empress-Queen, Matilda, from Oxford
+Castle. The Provisions of Oxford (1258) were the work of one of the
+most famous Parliaments of the thirteenth century, the century which
+saw the building of the English constitution, and the students of the
+University fought for the cause which those Provisions represented.
+The burning of the martyr bishops in the sixteenth century is one of
+the greatest tragedies in the story of our Church. The seventeenth
+century saw Oxford the capital of Royalist England in the Civil War,
+and though there was no actual fighting there, Charles' night march
+in 1644 from Oxford to the West, between the two enclosing armies of
+Essex and Waller, is one of the most famous military movements ever
+carried out in our comparatively peaceful island. The Parliamentary
+history, too, of Oxford in the seventeenth century is full of
+interest, for it was there that in 1625 Charles' first Parliament met
+in the Divinity School. And fifty years later, his son, Charles II,
+triumphed over the Whig Parliament at Oxford, which was trying by
+factious violence to force the Exclusion Bill on a reluctant king and
+nation. Few towns beside London have been the scene of so many great
+historical events; yet any one who looks below the surface will
+attach less importance to these than to the great changes in thought
+which have found in Oxford their inspiration, and which make it a
+city of pilgrimage for those interested in the development of
+England's real life. Matthew Arnold's famous description, hackneyed
+though it is by quotation, gives one aspect of Oxford, an aspect
+which will appeal to many beside the scholar poet:
+
+"Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the fierce
+intellectual life of our century, so serene!
+
+    'There are our young barbarians, all at play.'
+
+And yet, steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens to
+the moonlight, and whispering' from her towers the last enchantments
+of the Middle Ages, who will deny that Oxford, by her ineffable
+charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of all of us, to
+the ideal, to perfection--to beauty, in a word, which is only truth
+seen from another side?"
+
+But this is not the real intellectual charm of Oxford, which has been
+ever the centre of strenuous life, rather than of dilettante
+dreamings. From the very beginning, she has been a city of
+"Movements." Some visitors, then, will come to Oxford as the home and
+the burial-place of Roger Bacon, representing as he does the
+Franciscan Order, with its Christ-like sympathy for the poor and its
+early attempts to develop the knowledge of Natural Science; Oxford
+was in the thirteenth century the great centre of the Friars'
+movement in England. Others will remember that in the next century it
+produced, in John Wycliffe, the great opponent of the Friars, the man
+who, as the first of the Reformers, is to many the most interesting
+figure in mediaeval English religious history. In the sixteenth
+century, Oxford plays no great part in the actual revolution in the
+English Church; yet it will be a place attractive to many who cherish
+the memory of the "Oxford Reformers," the members of Erasmus' circle
+--John Colet, Thomas More, William Grocyn, and other scholars--who
+hoped by sound learning to amend the Church without violent change.
+Some, on the other hand, will see in the sixteenth-century Oxford,
+the school which trained men for the Counter-Reformation, such as the
+heroic Jesuit, Campion, or Cardinal Alien, the founder of the English
+College at Douai. The Anglican "Via Media" found its special
+representatives in Oxford in Jewel and Hooker, and in Laud, the
+practical genius who carried out its principles in the Church
+administration of his day. It was fitting that the movement for the
+revival of Church teaching in England in the nineteenth century
+should be an Oxford movement, and Newman's pulpit at St. Mary's and
+the chapel of Oriel College are sacred in the eyes of Anglicans all
+over the world. In the interval between Laud and Newman, Church
+principles had found a different development in another Oxford man;
+John Wesley's character and spiritual life were built up in Oxford,
+till he went forth to do the work of an Evangelist during more than
+half of the eighteenth century. Wycliffe, More, Hooker, Laud, Wesley,
+Newman, these are not the names of men who have affected the
+religious history of the world as did Luther, Calvin or Ignatius
+Loyola; but they have affected profoundly the religious life of the
+English-speaking race, and Oxford must ever be a sacred place for
+their sakes.
+
+And Oxford has been the starting-point of other than religious
+movements. No place in England has such a claim on the Englishmen of
+the New World as has Oxford. It was there that Richard Hakluyt taught
+geography, and collected in part his wonderful store of the tales of
+enterprise beyond the sea. Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his half-brother,
+Sir Walter Raleigh, both Oxford men, were the founders of English
+colonization. By their failures they showed the way to success later,
+and Calvert in Maryland, Penn in Pennsylvania, John Locke in the
+Carolinas, and Oglethorpe in Georgia are all Oxford men who rank as
+founders of States in the great Union of the West. And in our own
+day, Cecil Rhodes has once more proved that the academic dreamer can
+go out and advance the development of a great continent. By his
+magnificent foundation of scholarships at Oxford, he showed that he
+considered his old university a formative influence of the greatest
+importance in world history. Oxford with reason puts up one tablet to
+mark his lodgings in the city, and another to commemorate him in her
+stately Examination Schools.
+
+ [Plate II, St. Mary's Spire]
+
+But there are many to whom the past, whether in the realm of action
+or in the realm of ideas, does not appeal, whether it be from lack of
+knowledge or from lack of sympathy. To some of these Oxford makes a
+different appeal as perhaps the best place in England for studying
+the development of English architecture. The early Norman work of the
+Castle and St. Michael's, the Transition work of the cathedral, the
+very early lancet windows of St. Giles' Church (consecrated by the
+great St. Hugh of Lincoln himself), the Decorated Style as seen in
+St. Mary's spire and in Merton chapel, the glories of the specially
+English style, the Perpendicular, in Wykeham's work at New College
+and in Magdalen Tower, the Tudor magnificence of Wolsey's work at
+Christ Church, the last flower of Gothic at Wadham and at St. John's,
+the triumph of Wren's genius, alike in the classical style at the
+Sheldonian and in "Gothic" as in Tom Tower, the Classical work of
+Hawkesmore at Queen's and of Gibbs in the Radcliffe, the wonderful
+beauty of Mr. Bodley's modern Gothic in St. Swithun's Quad at
+Magdalen, and the skilful adaptation of old English tradition to
+modern needs by Sir Thomas Jackson at Trinity and at Hertford--what
+other city can show such a series of architectural beauties? And it
+must not be forgotten that Oxford disputes with York the honour of
+having the most representative sequence of painted glass windows in
+England. Oxford, indeed, is a paradise for the student of Art.
+Nowhere, except at Cambridge, can the series of architectural works
+be paralleled, and at both universities the charm of their ancient
+buildings is enhanced by their beautiful setting in college gardens.
+
+It is not an accident that in the old universities more than anywhere
+else, so much of beauty has survived, nor is it to be put down as a
+happy piece of academic conservatism. It is rather the natural result
+of their constitution and endowment. What has been so fatal to the
+beauty of old England elsewhere has been material prosperity. The
+buildings inherited from the past had to go, at least so it was
+thought, because they were not suited to modern methods, or because
+the site they occupied was worth so much more for other purposes. But
+the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge could not carry on their work on
+different sites; "residence" was an essential of academic
+arrangements; and there was no temptation to the fellows of a college
+to make money by parting with their old buildings, for their incomes
+were determined by Statute, and any great increase of wealth would
+not advantage individual fellows. Hence, while great nobles and great
+merchants sold their splendid houses and grounds, and grew rich on
+the unearned increment, and while non-residential universities moved
+bodily from their old positions to new and more fashionable quarters,
+Oxford and Cambridge colleges went on working and living in the same
+places. Much the same reasons have preserved, in many old towns,
+picturesque alms-houses, to show the modern world how beautiful
+buildings once could be, while all around them reigns opulent
+ugliness. Certain it is that only in one instance, in recent times,
+has an Oxford college contemplated selling its old site and buildings
+and migrating to North Oxford, and then the sacrilegious attempt was
+outvoted. Hence, as has been said, the two old English Universities
+possess in an unique degree the
+
+    "Strange enchantments of the past
+     And memories of the days of old."
+
+The charms of Oxford for the historical student and for the lover of
+Art have been spoken of. But a large part of the world comes under
+neither head; to it the charm of Oxford consists in the young lives
+that are continually passing through it. Oxford and Cambridge present
+ever attractive contrasts between their young students and their old
+buildings, between the first enthusiasm of ever new generations, and
+customs and rules which date back to mediaeval times.
+
+But apart from the charm of contrast, Oxford has everything to make
+life attractive for young men. It is true that the old buildings
+combine with a dignity a millionaire could not surpass a standard of
+material comfort which in some respects is below that of an up-to-
+date workhouse. An amusing instance has occurred of this during the
+war. The students of one of the women's colleges, expelled from their
+own modern buildings, which had been turned into a hospital, became
+tenants of half of one of the oldest colleges. It was very romantic
+thus to gain admission to the real Oxford, but the students soon
+found that it was very uncomfortable to have their baths in an out-
+of-the-way corner of the college. And baths themselves are but a
+modern institution at Oxford; at one or two colleges still the old
+"tub in one's room" is the only system of washing. Perhaps this
+instance may be thought frivolous, but it is typical of Oxford, which
+has been described, with some exaggeration in both words, as a home
+of "barbaric luxury."
+
+But after all, comfort in the material sense is the least important
+element in completeness of life. Oxford has everything else, except,
+it is true, a bracing climate. She has society of every kind, in
+which a man ranks on his merits, not on his possessions; he is valued
+for what he is, not for what he has; she gives freedom to her sons to
+live their own life, with just sufficient restraint to add piquancy
+to freedom, and to restrain those excesses which are fatal to it; she
+has intellectual interests and traditions, which often really affect
+men who seem indifferent to them; life in her, as a rule, is not
+troubled by financial cares--for her young men, most of them, either
+through old endowments or from family circumstances, have for the
+moment enough of this world's goods. In view of all this, and much
+more, is it not natural that Oxford has a charm for her sons? And
+this is enhanced with many by all the force of hereditary tradition;
+the young man is at his college because his father was there before
+him; the pleasure of each generation is increased by the reflection
+of the other's pleasure. What traditional feeling in Oxford means
+may, perhaps, be illustrated by the story of an old English worthy,
+though one only of the second rank. Jonathan Trelawney, one of the
+Seven Bishops who defied James II, was a stout Whig, but when it was
+proposed to punish Oxford for her devotion to the Pretender, the
+Government found they could not reckon on his vote, though he was
+usually a safe party man. "I must be excused from giving my vote for
+altering the methods of election into Christ Church, where I had my
+bread for twenty years. I would rather see my son a link boy than a
+student of Christ Church in such a manner as tears up by the roots
+that constitution."
+
+But the days of hereditary tradition are over, and Trelawney belongs
+to an age long past; Oxford now is exposed to an influence compared
+to which the arbitrary proceedings of a king are feeble. A democratic
+Parliament with a growing Labour party has far more power to change
+Oxford than the Stuarts ever had, and even at this moment (1919) a
+third Royal Commission is beginning to sit. Will it modify, will it--
+transform Oxford?
+
+The first answer seems to be that the very stones of Oxford are
+charged with her traditions. During the War the colleges have been
+full of officer-cadets; they were men of all ranks of life and of
+every kind of education; they came from all parts of the world; they
+were of all ages, from eighteen to forty, at least. Their training
+was a strenuous one by strict rule, a complete contrast to the free
+and easy life of academic Oxford. Yet in their few months of
+residence, most of them became imbued with the college spirit; they
+considered themselves members of the place they lived in; they tried
+to do most of the things undergraduates do. If Oxford thus, to some
+extent, moulded to her pattern men who, welcome as they were, were
+only accidental, surely the college spirit may be trusted to
+assimilate whatever material the changed conditions of social or of
+political life furnish to it. The hope of many at Oxford is that
+there will be a great development and a great change. On one side it
+will be good if Oxford becomes to a much greater extent not only an
+all-British, but also a world university; on another side it is to be
+hoped that far more than ever before men of all classes in England
+will come to Oxford. It would surprise many of the University's
+critics to find how much had already been done in these directions.
+It is certainly not true now that, as one of Oxford's critics wrote,
+
+    "Too long, too long men saw thee sit apart
+     From all the living pulses of the hour."
+
+On the contrary, the Oxford of the last generation has already become
+markedly more cosmopolitan, and she has been drawing to her an ever-
+increasing number of able men of every class.
+
+But these developments, thus begun, will certainly be carried much
+further in the near future. Oxford will be altered. Some of her
+customs will be changed. This may well issue in great and lasting
+good, though there will be loss as well as gain. But an Oxford man
+may be pardoned if he believes and hopes that his university will
+remain the university he has loved. There is a saying current in
+Oxford about Oxford men, which may not be out of place here--"If you
+meet a stranger, and if after a time you say to him, 'I think you
+were at Oxford,' he accepts it, as a matter of course, and is
+pleased. If you do the same to a Cambridge man, he indignantly
+replies, 'How do you know that?'" No doubt the saying is turned the
+other way round at Cambridge, and no doubt it is equally true and
+equally false of both universities, i.e. it is positively true and
+negatively false, like so many other statements. But it is positively
+true; the Oxford man is proud of having been at Oxford; the past and
+the present alike, his political and his religious beliefs, his
+traditions and his social surroundings, all endear Oxford to him. May
+it ever be so.
+
+
+
+
+RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+
+
+     "Like to a queen in pride of place, she wears
+      The splendour of a crown in Radcliffe's dome."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square]
+
+The visitor to Oxford often asks--"Where is the University?" The
+proper answer is: "The University is everywhere," for the colleges
+are all parts of it. But if a distinction must be made, and some
+buildings must be shown which are especially "University Buildings,"
+then it is undoubtedly in the Square, of which this picture shows one
+side, that they must be found. Immediately on the right is the
+Bodleian Library, the domed building in the centre is the Radcliffe
+Library, and in the background rises the spire of St. Mary's. Of this
+last building the tower and spire go back nearly to the beginnings of
+Oxford; they date from the time of Edward I; but for a century, at
+least, before they were erected, the students of Oxford had met for
+worship and for business in the earlier church, which stood on the
+site of the present St. Mary's.
+
+The Bodleian Library occupies the old Examination Schools, which were
+built, in the reign of James I, for the reformed University of
+Archbishop Laud; within the memory of men who do not count themselves
+old, the university examinations were still held in this building.
+Finally, the shapely dome between the Bodleian and St. Mary's is the
+work of James Gibbs, the greatest English architect of the eighteenth
+century, to whom Cambridge owes its Senate House, and London the
+noble church of St. Martin's in the Fields. The dome was built for a
+separate library, the foundation of Dr. John Radcliffe, Queen Anne's
+physician, the most munificent of Oxford benefactors; it is still
+managed by his trustees, a body independent of the University, but
+since 1861 they have lent it to the Bodleian Library for a reading-
+room. It is fitting that the oldest public library in the modern
+world, a title the Bodleian can proudly claim, should have the finest
+reading-room, where 400 students can have each his separate desk, and
+where, if so minded and so physically enduring, they can put in
+twelve hours' work in a day. No other great library in Europe allows
+such privileges.
+
+Round these three University buildings are grouped three colleges:
+Hertford, the youngest of Oxford foundations, the re-creation of an
+old hall by a Victorian financial magnate. Sir Thomas Baring; All
+Souls', standing a little beyond, of which the part here shown is the
+corner of the great Law Library, founded by Sir William Codrington in
+the days of good Queen Anne; while on the other side of the Radcliffe
+is Brasenose College (for pictures of which see Plates II and XV). No
+non-academic building fronts on the Square; the one or two houses
+facing on the south-west corner are occupied by college tutors. The
+academic influence has spread even under the earth, for between the
+Bodleian and the Radcliffe there is a great subterranean chamber of
+two stories, excavated 1909-1910, which, when full, will contain
+1,000,000 books.
+
+It is refreshing to turn from the thought of so much dead industry,
+as these multitudes of unread books will represent, to the
+inspiration of the buildings. They are the very epitome of Oxford.
+The classic symmetry of Gibbs' dome looks across at the soaring spire
+of the mediaeval University Church, while the Bodleian is one of the
+best examples of the Jacobean Gothic, which still held its own in
+Oxford when the classical style was triumphing elsewhere. Such
+contrasts are typical of Oxford. The University had a European
+reputation in the days when it was one of the two great centres of
+mediaeval scholasticism. Roger Bacon, the most famous name in
+mediaeval science, no doubt saw the tower of St. Mary's beginning to
+rise. The University welcomed the Classical Revival, it survived the
+storms of the Reformation, it was the great centre of the building up
+of Anglican theology under the Laudian rule, it was one of the
+inspirations of English science in the seventeenth century, though
+Dr. Radcliffe's generous benefactions are a little later, and have
+hardly begun to yield their full fruit till our own day. Such are the
+learned traditions of the Radcliffe Square, while it has also been
+the centre of the young lives which, for seven centuries at least,
+have enjoyed their happiest years in Oxford.
+
+The view from the Radcliffe roof is undoubtedly the best in Oxford.
+It has been thus described by the worst of the many poets who have
+celebrated the University:
+
+    "Spire, tower and steeple, roofs of radiant tile,
+     The costly temple and collegiate pile,
+     In sumptuous mass of mingled form and hue,
+     Await the wonder of thy sateless view."
+
+But Robert Montgomery is more likely to be remembered for Macaulay's
+merciless but well-deserved chastisement than for his praises of
+Oxford. Even their utter bathos cannot degrade a group of buildings
+so wonderful.
+
+
+
+
+THE BROAD STREET
+
+    "Ye mossy piles of old munificence,
+     At once the pride of learning and defence."
+                   J. WARTON, /Triumph of Isis/
+
+The east side of the University buildings proper was shown in the
+last picture (Plate III); in the following (Plate IV), the north side
+of the same block is seen. The old University "schools" lay just
+inside the city wall, and Broad Street, which is there represented,
+occupies the site of the ditch, which ran on the north of the wall.
+This picture is a fitting supplement to the last, for the Sheldonian
+Theatre on the right of it and the Clarendon Building in the
+background may claim rank even with the Bodleian and the Radcliffe as
+the University's special buildings.
+
+The Sheldonian celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
+only last year (1919), when the music which had been performed at its
+opening was performed once more. It is a building interesting from
+many points of view. Architecturally it marks the first complete
+flowering of the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He was only thirty-
+seven when it was completed, and had been previously known rather as
+a man of science than as an architect; he was Oxford's Professor of
+Astronomy; but Archbishop Sheldon chose him to build a worthy meeting
+place for his University, even as at the same time he was being
+called by the king to prepare plans for rebuilding London after the
+Great Fire.
+
+The very existence of the Sheldonian marks the development of
+University ideas. The simple piety--or was it the worldliness?--of
+Pre-Reformation Oxford had seen nothing unsuitable in the ceremonies
+of graduate Oxford and the ribaldries of undergraduate Oxford taking
+place in the consecrated building of St. Mary's; but the more sober
+genius of Anglicanism was shocked at these secular intrusions, and
+Sheldon provided his University with a worthy home, where its great
+functions have been performed ever since.
+
+The building is a triumph of construction; it is doubtful if so large
+an unsupported roof can be found elsewhere; but Wren is not to be
+held responsible for the outside ugly flat roof, which was put on 100
+years ago, because it was said, quite falsely, that Wren's roof was
+unsafe. That architect had set himself the problem of getting the
+greatest number of people into the space at his disposal, and he
+managed to fit in a building that will hold 1,500. It was also
+intended for the Printing Press of the University, but was only used
+in that way for a short time, as in 1713 Sir John Vanbrugh put up the
+Clarendon Building, to house this department of University activity.
+The "heaviness" of Vanbrugh's buildings was a jest even in his own
+time; someone wrote as an epitaph for him
+
+    "Lie heavy on him. Earth, for he
+     Laid many a heavy load on thee."
+
+Blenheim Palace, his greatest work, is indeed a "heavy load." But the
+same criticism can hardly be brought against the columned portico,
+which forms a fine ending for the Broad Street. Vanbrugh's building
+was superseded in its turn, when the increasing business of the
+Oxford Printing Press was moved to the present building in 1830.
+
+ [Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad Street]
+
+Since then, all kinds of University business have been carried on in
+the old Printing Press. The University Registrar and the University
+Treasurer (his style is "Secretary of the University Chest") have
+their offices there; the Proctors exercise discipline from there; the
+various University delegacies and committees meet there. And another
+side of Oxford life, not yet (in January 1920) fully recognized as
+belonging to the University, has found a home there; the top floor
+has been for twenty years past the centre of women's education in
+Oxford, a position elevated indeed, for it is up more than fifty
+stairs, but commodious and dignified when reached at last.
+
+Perhaps the Clarendon Building has gained in lightness of effect by
+being contrasted with the clumsy mass of the Indian Institute, which
+forms the background of our picture. The nineteenth century proudly
+criticized the taste of the eighteenth; but it may well be doubted if
+any building in Oxford of the earlier and much-abused century is more
+inartistic and inappropriate than "Jumbo's Joss House," which used to
+rouse the scorn and anger of the late Professor of History, Edward A.
+Freeman.
+
+No Oxford colleges are in this picture, though a small part of
+Exeter, one of Sir Gilbert Scott's least happy erections in Oxford,
+appears on the right, and a little piece of Trinity on the left; the
+last-named is the college of Professor Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch,
+better known as "Q," one of the most delightful of Oxford's minor
+poets. The opening lines of his poem, "Alma Mater,"
+
+    "Know ye her secret none can utter,
+       Hers of the book, the tripled crown?
+     Still on the spire the pigeons flutter,
+       Still by the gateway flits the gown,
+     Still in the street from corbel and gutter
+       Faces of stone look down,"
+
+may well have been inspired by this very scene in the Broad, for the
+grim faces of stone that surround the Sheldonian are one of the
+features and the puzzles of Oxford. Are they the Roman Emperors, or
+the Greek Philosophers, or neither? It does not matter, for they are
+unlike anything in heaven or in earth, and yet they are loved by all
+true Oxford men for their uncompromising ugliness, which has been
+familiar to so many generations.
+
+
+
+BALLIOL COLLEGE
+
+    "For the house of Balliol is builded ever
+     By all the labours of all her sons,
+     And the great deed wrought and the grand endeavour
+     Will be hers as long as the Isis runs."
+                                             F. S. BOAS
+
+The story is told of the old Greek admirals, after their victory at
+Salamis over the Persian king, that, when invited to name the two
+most deserving commanders, they each put their own name first, and
+then one and all put the Athenian Themistocles second. If a vote, on
+these principles, were taken in Oxford as to which was the best
+college, there is little doubt that Balliol would secure most of the
+second votes.
+
+It is one of the three oldest colleges, and actually has been in
+occupation of its present site longer than any other of our Oxford
+foundations--for more than six centuries and a half. Yet its
+greatness is but a thing of yesterday compared to the antiquity of
+Oxford, and it is fitting that a college which has come to the front
+in the nineteenth century should be mainly housed in nineteenth
+century buildings.
+
+Balliol has indeed ceased to be the "most satisfactory pile and range
+of old lowered and gabled edifices," which Nathaniel Hawthorne saw in
+the "fifties" of the last century. The painful imitation of a French
+chateau, the work of Sir Alfred Waterhouse, which forms the main part
+of our picture, was put up about 1868 (mainly by the munificence of
+Miss Hannah Brackenbury), and only the old hall and the library,
+which lie behind, remain of Pre-Reformation Balliol.
+
+In the background of our picture (Plate V) can be seen the Fisher
+Building, known to all Balliol men for the still existing
+inscription, "Verbum non amplius Fisher," which tradition says was
+put up at the dying request of the eighteenth-century benefactor.
+
+While it is true that the pre-eminence of Balliol is a growth of the
+nineteenth century, yet the college can count among its worthies one
+of the greatest names in English mediaeval history, that of John
+Wycliffe. He was probably a scholar of Balliol, and certainly Master
+for some years about 1360. But he left the college for a country
+living, and his time at Balliol is not associated with either of his
+most important works--his translation of the Bible or his order of
+"Poor Preachers." While at Balliol, he was rather "the last of the
+Schoolmen" than "the first of the Reformers."
+
+The modern greatness of Balliol is due to the fact that the college
+awoke more rapidly from the sleep of the eighteenth century than most
+of Oxford, and as early as 1828 threw open its scholarships to free
+competition. Hence even as early as the time of Dr. Arnold at Rugby,
+a "Balliol scholarship" had become "the blue riband of public-school
+education." It has now passed into popular phraseology to such an
+extent that lady novelists, unversed in academic niceties, confer a
+"Balliol scholarship" on their heroes, even when entering Cambridge.
+
+Balliol has known how to take full advantage of its opportunity.
+Governed by a series of eminent masters, especially Dr. Scott of
+Greek dictionary fame, and Professor Jowett, the translator of Plato
+and the hero of more Oxford stories than any other man, it has been
+ready to adapt itself to every new movement. While the governing
+bodies of other colleges in the middle of the last century were too
+often looking only to raising their own fellowships to the highest
+possible point, the Balliol dons were denying their own pockets to
+enrich and strengthen their college.
+
+Hence, undoubtedly, Balliol for a long time past has had a lion's
+share of Oxford's great men; two Archbishops of Canterbury, Tait and
+Temple, the present Archbishop of York, Cardinal Manning, a Prime
+Minister in Mr. Asquith, a Speaker in Lord. Peel, two Viceroys of
+India in Lord Lansdowne and Lord Curzon, poets like Clough, Matthew
+Arnold and Swinburne, these are only some of the more outstanding
+names. It is this which makes Balliol Hall so particularly
+interesting to the ordinary man; knowledge of present-day affairs,
+not of history, is all that is needed to appreciate its array of
+portraits.
+
+Nor has Balliol been unmindful of the social movements of our time.
+It is the chosen home of the Workers' Educational Association in
+Oxford, and in Arnold Toynbee it produced one of the pioneers and
+martyrs of modern social progress. Truly Balliol has much more to
+show to the visitor than its ultra-modern front on the Broad would
+promise.
+
+The street, on which Balliol looks out, is associated with the most
+famous scene of Oxford history; the stone with a cross in the middle
+of the road marks the traditional site of the burning of the bishops,
+Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, although their memorial has been
+erected 200 yards further north in St. Giles', and though
+antiquarians argue (probably correctly) that the actual pyre was a
+little further south, in fact, behind the present row of Broad Street
+houses.
+
+But it is the living activity of the college, not the sad memories of
+the street in front, that gives the interest to the picture. The
+intellectual life of the Balliol men has been well described by
+Professor J. C. Shairp, whose verses on "Balliol Scholars" are likely
+to be remembered by Oxford in long days to come for their
+associations, if not for their poetic merits. He describes what a
+privilege it is "to have passed," with men who became famous
+afterwards,
+
+          "The threshold of young life,
+     Where the man meets, not yet absorbs, the boy,
+     And ere descending to the dusky strife,
+     Gazed from clear heights of intellectual joy
+     That an undying image left enshrined."
+
+ This will come home to many, as they think on their happy Oxford
+days when they had life all before them, even though their
+contemporaries have not become archbishops like Temple or poets like
+Matthew Arnold.
+
+ [Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street Front]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON COLLEGE
+
+
+    "I passed beside the reverend walls
+     In which of old I wore the gown."
+                           TENNYSON.
+
+
+ [Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower]
+
+Merton is not only the oldest college in Oxford, it is also, as is
+claimed on the monument of the founder, Walter de Merton, in his
+Cathedral of Rochester, the model of "omnium quotquot extant
+collegiorum." Peterhouse, the first college at Cambridge, which was
+founded (1281) seven years later than Merton, had its statutes
+avowedly copied from those of its Oxford predecessor.
+
+So important a new departure in education calls for special notice.
+It is interesting to see how the English college system grew out of
+the long rivalry between the Regular and the Secular clergy which was
+so prominent in the mediaeval church. The Secular clergy, who had in
+their ranks all the "professional men" of the day, civil servants,
+architects, physicians, as well as, those devoted to religious
+matters in the strict sense, were always jealous of the monks and the
+friars, who, living by a "rule" in their communities, were much less
+in sympathy with English national feelings than the Seculars, who
+lived among the laity. Hence the growing influence of the Regular
+Orders, especially of the Franciscans and the Dominicans, in
+thirteenth-century Oxford, excited the alarm of a far-seeing prelate
+like Walter de Merton. There was a real danger that the most
+prominent and best of the students might be drawn into the great new
+communities, which were rapidly adding to their learning and their
+piety the further attractions of great buildings and splendid
+ceremonial.
+
+The founder of Merton had the same purpose as the founder of the
+College of the Sorbonne at Paris, a slightly earlier institution
+(1257). He intended that his college should rival the houses of the
+Dominicans and the Franciscans. These friaries were in the southern
+part of Oxford, and have completely perished, leaving behind only the
+names of two or three mean streets; but the college system which
+Walter de Merton founded has grown with the growth of Oxford and of
+England, and is to-day as vigorous and as useful as ever.
+
+Walter de Merton provided his fellows with noble buildings, at once
+for their common life and for their own private accommodation, and
+also with endowments sufficient to enable them to live in comfort,
+free from anxiety; most important of all, he gave them powers of
+self-government, so that they might recruit their own numbers and
+carry out for themselves the objects prescribed by him in his
+Statutes.
+
+In this great foundation then the three characteristic features of a
+college are found--a common life, powers of self-government, with the
+right of choosing future members, and endowments that enable religion
+and learning to flourish, free from more pressing cares. It is these
+features which distinguish the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and
+which have determined their history.
+
+Walter de Merton definitely prescribed that none of the fellows who
+benefited by his foundation should be monks or friars; to take the
+vows involved forfeiture of a fellowship. He also especially urged on
+the members of his society that, when any of them rose to "ampler
+fortune" /(uberior fortuna)/, they should not forget their /alma
+mater/.
+
+The founder died in 1277, so that none of the college buildings were
+complete in his time, except perhaps the treasury, which, with its
+high-pitched roof of stone, lies in the opposite corner of the Mob
+Quad to that shown in our picture. Why the Quad is called "The Mob
+Quad," nobody knows. As was fitting, the chapel was the first part of
+the college to be finished--about 1300--and it is a splendid specimen
+of early Geometrical Gothic; it retains a little of the old glass,
+given by one of the early fellows.
+
+The north side of the Mob Quad, which is shown in our picture, is
+very little later than the Chapel, and the whole of the Quad was
+finished before 1400; the rooms in it have been the homes of Oxford
+men for more than five centuries. It is sad to think that so unique a
+building was almost destroyed in the middle of the nineteenth
+century, by the zeal of "reformers"; it was actually condemned to be
+pulled down, to make way for modern buildings, but, fortunately,
+there was an irregularity in the voting. Mr. G. C. Brodrick, then a
+young fellow, later the Warden of the college, insisted on the matter
+being discussed again at a later meeting, and at this the Mob Quad
+was saved by a narrow majority. "He will go to Heaven for it," as
+Corporal Trim said of the English Guards, who saved his broken
+regiment at Steinkirk.
+
+The "reformers" of Merton had to be content with cutting down their
+beautiful "Grove" and spoiling the finest view in Oxford by erecting
+the ugliest building which Mid-Victorian taste inflicted on the
+University.
+
+In the old buildings which so narrowly escaped destruction may have
+lived John Wycliffe, who is claimed as a fellow of Merton in an
+almost contemporary list; his activity in Oxford belongs rather to
+the later time, when he was Master of Balliol. His is one of the
+outstanding names in English history; the success of Merton in
+producing great men of a more ordinary kind can be judged from the
+fact that between 1294 and 1366 six out of the seven Archbishops of
+Canterbury were Merton men.
+
+In the great period of the seventeenth century, Merton had the
+distinction of being one of the few colleges which were
+Parliamentarian in sympathy. Hence the Warden was deposed by King
+Charles, who installed in his place a really great man, William
+Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood. But the king
+did more harm than good to the college; it was turned into lodgings
+for Queen Henrietta Maria and her court, and ladies were intruded and
+children born within college walls. These proceedings were
+respectable, though unusual; but the college was even more humiliated
+by the visit of Charles II, who installed there, among other court
+ladies, the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The college, however,
+with the Revolution, returned to less courtly views, and its Whig
+connection found an honourable representative in Richard Steele, the
+founder of the /Tatler/. It is not surprising that so cheerful a
+gentleman left Oxford without a degree, but "with the love of the
+whole society." The college register specially notes his gift of his
+/Tatler/; he was acting on the sound rule, by no means so universally
+followed as it ought to be, that Oxford authors should present their
+books to their college library.
+
+Merton, as has been said, is the "type" college, if one may thus
+apply a scientific term; hence it is fitting that to it belong the
+two men to whom perhaps Oxford owes most. Thomas Bodley was a fellow
+and lecturer in Greek there, before he left Oxford for diplomacy, and
+accumulated that wealth which he used to endow the oldest and the
+most fascinating, if not the largest, of British libraries. And among
+the men who have gained from "the rare books in the public library" a
+way to a "perfect elysium," none better deserves remembrance than the
+Mertonian, Antony Wood, whose monument stands in Merton Chapel, but
+who has raised /monumentum aere perennius/ to himself, in his
+/History of the University of Oxford/ and his /Athenae Oxonienses/.
+
+ [Plate VII. Merton College : The Library Interior]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON LIBRARY
+
+
+    "Hail, tree of knowledge! thy leaves fruit; which well
+     Dost in the midst of Paradise arise,
+             Oxford, the Muses' paradise,
+     From which may never sword the blest expel.
+     Hail, bank of all past ages! where they lie
+ To enrich, with interest, posterity."
+                                               COWLEY.
+
+"The appearance of the library" (at Merton), says the great Cambridge
+scholar, J. Willis Clark, in his /Care of Books/, "is so venerable,
+so unlike any similar room with which I am acquainted, that it must
+always command admiration."
+
+He classes it with the libraries at Oxford of Corpus, St. John's,
+Jesus, and Magdalen, and he regretfully adds that no college library
+in his own University has retained the same old features as these
+have done. But none of the four can compare with Merton, either in
+antiquarian interest or in picturesqueness; it stands in a class by
+itself.
+
+The Library was built by the munificence of Bishop Reed of Chichester
+between 1377 and 1379; the dormer windows, however (seen in Plate
+VII), are later in date. The bookcases in the larger room were made
+in 1623; one of the original half cases, however, was spared, that
+nearest to the entrance on the north side, and this is the most
+interesting single feature in the whole library. It need hardly be
+said that the reading-desk in early times was actually attached to
+the bookcase; the library then was a place to read in, not one from
+which books were taken to be read. The books were to be kept "in some
+common and secure place," and they were "chained in the library
+chamber for the common use of the fellows" (J. W. Clark).
+
+The old case that has been retained still has its chained books, and
+traces of the arrangement for chains can be seen in the other cases.
+Merton was one of the last libraries in Oxford to keep its books in
+chains; these were only removed in 1792; in the Bodleian the work had
+been begun a generation earlier (in 1757).
+
+Not all books, however, were chained; by special arrangements in old
+college statutes, some of them were allowed out to the fellows. The
+register of Merton contains interesting entries as to how the books
+were distributed, e.g. on August 26, 1500, "choice was made of the
+books on philosophy; it was found there were in all 349 books, which
+were then distributed." This was a large number: at King's,
+Cambridge, less than half a century before, there were only 174 books
+on all subjects, and in the Cambridge University Library in 1473,
+only 330.
+
+If a book was borrowed, great precautions were taken; the Warden of
+Merton in 1498 had to obtain the leave of the college to take out a
+book which he wanted; then, "in the presence of the four seniors," he
+received his book, depositing two volumes of St. Jerome's
+Commentaries as pledges for its safe return. A similar ceremony, with
+a similar entry in the register, marked the replacement of the book
+in the library. Though printing was already beginning to multiply
+books, yet then, and for long after, a book was a most valuable
+possession. The features of these venerable tomes are well described
+by Crabbe:
+
+    "That weight of wood, with leathern coat o'erlaid,
+     Those ample clasps, of solid metal made,
+     The close pressed leaves, unclosed for many an age,
+     The dull red edging of the well-filled page,
+     On the broad back the stubborn ridges rolled,
+     Where yet the title shines in tarnished gold,
+     These all a sage and laboured work proclaim,
+     A painful candidate for lasting fame."
+
+Such books are numbered by hundreds in every college library, and it
+is only too true of them that:
+
+    "Hence in these times, untouched the pages lie
+     And slumber out their immortality."
+
+The reception of such a book in a library was an event, and the
+record of one gift occupies six whole lines in the Merton Register;
+its donors are named as "two venerable men," and the entry sweetly
+concludes, "Let us, therefore, pray for them."
+
+The library, problem, acute everywhere, is perhaps especially so in a
+college library. How can it keep pace with the multiplicity of
+studies? How should it deal with books indispensable for a short
+time, perhaps for one generation, and then superseded? Even apart
+from the question of the cost of purchase, the amount of space
+available is small, considering modern needs. These problems and such
+as these have not yet been solved by college librarians; but the
+college library, quite apart from the books in it, is an education in
+itself. The old days of neglect are past, the days reflected in the
+scandalous story--told of more than one college--about the old fellow
+who was missing for two months, and, after being searched for high
+and low, was found hanging dead in the college library. Now the
+libraries everywhere are being used continually, and men can realize
+in them, perhaps better than anywhere else, how great the past of
+Oxford has been, and can form some idea of the labours of forgotten
+generations, which have made the University what it was and what it
+is.
+
+Every library has its treasures, to show the present generation how
+beautiful an old book can be which was produced in days when its
+production was not a mere publisher's speculation, but the work of a
+scholar seeking to promote knowledge and advance the cause of Truth.
+And it does not require much imagination for a student, in a building
+like Merton Library, to conjure up the picture of his mediaeval
+predecessor, sitting on his hard wooden bench, with his chained MSS.
+volume on the shelf above, and poring over the crabbed pages in the
+unwarmed, half-lighted chamber. If the picture brings with it the
+thought of the transitoriness of human endeavour, and if the words of
+the Teacher seem doubly true, "Of making of books there is no end,
+and much study is a weariness of the flesh," yet in the fresh life of
+young Oxford, such reflections are only salutary; pessimism, despair
+of humanity, are not vices likely to flourish among undergraduates in
+the healthy society of modern colleges.
+
+Those only, it might be said, can properly reform the present who
+understand the past, and it is perhaps the spirit of the Merton
+Library, at once old and new, which has inspired the statesmen whom
+Merton has sent to take part in the government of Britain during the
+last half-century. Lord Randolph Churchill, the founder of Tory
+democracy, his present-day successor in the same role, Lord
+Birkenhead, and the ever young Lord Halsbury are men of the type
+which Walter de Merton wished to train, "for the service of God in
+Church and State," men who champion the existing order, but who are
+willing to develop and improve it on the old lines.
+
+
+
+
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Here at each coign of every antique street
+     A memory hath taken root in stone,
+     Here Raleigh shone."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's Church]
+
+It is a curious coincidence that three of the most troubled reigns of
+English history have been marked by double college foundations in
+Oxford. That of Henry VI, in spite of constant civil war, threatening
+or actual, saw the beginnings of All Souls' and of Magdalen; the
+short and sad reign of Mary Tudor restored to Oxford Trinity and St.
+John's; and in an earlier century the ministers of Edward II, the
+most unroyal of our Plantagenet kings, gave to Oxford Exeter and
+Oriel. The king himself was graciously pleased to accept the honour
+of the latter foundation, and his statue adorns the College Quad,
+along with that of Charles I, in whose day the whole College was
+rebuilt. The front may be compared architecturally with those of
+Wadham and of University, which date from about the same period (the
+first part of the seventeenth century), when, under the fostering
+care of Archbishop Laud, Oxford increased greatly in numbers, in
+learning, and in buildings. Though Oriel has neither the bold sweep
+of University nor the perfect proportions of Wadham, it yet is a
+pleasing building, at least in its front.
+
+Like New College, Oriel is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and, also
+like New College, the name of "St. Mary's" early gave way to a
+popular nickname. The College at once on its foundation received the
+gift of a tenement called "L'Oriole," which occupied its present
+site, and its name has displaced the real style of the College in
+general use.
+
+It is only fitting that, as in our picture, St. Mary's Church should
+be combined with Oriel, for the founder was Vicar of St. Mary's, and
+the presentation to that living has ever since been in the hands of
+the College. It was as a Fellow of Oriel that Newman became, in 1828,
+Vicar of St. Mary's, from the pulpit of which, during thirteen years,
+he moulded all that was best in the religious life of Oxford. The
+glorious spire of the church was still new when the College was
+founded.
+
+Oriel and its chapel are among the places for religious pilgrimage in
+Oxford. As Lincoln draws from all parts of the world those who
+reverence the name of John Wesley, so the Oxford Movement and the
+Anglican Revival had their starting-point, and for some time their
+centre, in Oriel. The connection of the College with the Movement was
+not in either case a mere accident; the Oxford Revival, at any rate,
+was profoundly influenced by the personality of Newman, and Newman,
+both by attraction and by repulsion, was largely what Oriel made him.
+Among those who were with him at the College were Archbishop Whately,
+whose Liberalism repelled him, Hawkins, the Provost, whose views on
+"Tradition" began to modify the Evangelicalism in which he had been
+brought up, Keble, whose /Christian Year/ did more for Church
+teaching in England than countless sermons, Pusey, already famous for
+his learning and his piety, who was to give his name to the Movement,
+and, slightly later, Church, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, the
+historian of the Movement, and Samuel Wilberforce, who, as Bishop of
+Oxford, was to show how profoundly it would increase the influence of
+the English Church.
+
+Such a combination of famous names at one time is hardly found in the
+history of any other college, and it would be easy to add others
+hardly less known, who were also members of the same body at that
+famous time. Hero-worshippers can still see the rooms where these
+great men lived, and the Common Room in which they met and argued, in
+the days when Oxford did less teaching and had more time for talking
+and for thinking than the busy, hurrying ways of the twentieth
+century allow. But Oriel has many other associations besides those of
+the Oxford Movement. Walter Raleigh, the most fascinating of
+Elizabethans, was a student there, and probably in Oxford met the
+great historian of travel and discovery, Richard Hakluyt (a Christ
+Church man), whose influence did so much to bring home to Oxford the
+wonders of the strange worlds beyond the seas. It was probably also
+through his connection with Oriel that Raleigh made the acquaintance
+of Harriot, who shared in his colonial ventures in Virginia, and who
+became the historian of that foundation, so full of importance as the
+beginning of the new England across the Atlantic. It was only fitting
+that the Raleigh of the nineteenth century, Cecil John Rhodes, should
+also be an Oriel man, who was never weary of acknowledging what he
+owed to Oxford, and who showed his faith in her by his works. The
+Rhodes' Foundation expends his millions in bringing scholars to
+Oxford from the whole world; already its influence has been great
+during its twenty years of existence; what it will be in the future,
+only the future can show. If Mr. Rhodes gave his millions to the
+University, he gave his tens of thousands to his old College. The
+result on the High Street is--to put it gently--not altogether happy;
+but perhaps time may soften the lines of Mr. Champney's somewhat
+uninspired front, though it is not likely to quicken interest in the
+statues of the obscure provosts which adorn it.
+
+
+
+
+QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+    "The building, parent of my young essays,
+     Asks in return a tributary praise;
+     Pillars sublime bear up the learned weight,
+     And antique sages tread the pompous height."
+                                          TICKELL.
+
+Queens's is one of the six oldest colleges in Oxford, and is far on
+to celebrating its sexcentenary, but it has purged itself of the
+Gothic leaven in its buildings more completely than any other Oxford
+foundation. It does not even occupy its own old site, for the
+building originally lay well back from the High Street. It was only
+the "civilities and kindnesses" of Provost Lancaster which induced
+the Mayor and Corporation of Oxford, in 1709, to grant to Queen's
+College "for 1,000 years," "so much ground on the High Street as
+shall be requisite for making their intended new building straight
+and uniform." And so the most important of "the streamlike windings
+of the glorious street" was in part determined by a corrupt bargain
+between "a vile Whig" (as Hearne calls this hated Provost) and a
+complaisant mayor. But much of the credit for the beauty of this part
+of the High must also be given to the architect of University College
+(seen in Plate IX on the left), who, whether by skill or by accident,
+combined at a most graceful angle the two quads, erected with an
+interval of some eighty years between them (1634 and 1719).
+
+A man must, indeed, be a Gothic purist who would wish away the
+stately front quadrangle of Queen's, designed by Wren's favourite
+pupil, Hawkmoor, while the master himself is said to be responsible
+for the chapel of the College, the most perfect basilican church in
+Oxford.
+
+If Queen's has been revolutionary in its buildings, it has been
+singularly tenacious of old customs. Its members still assemble at
+dinner to the sound of the trumpet (blown by a curious arrangement
+/after/ grace has been said); it still keeps up the ancient and
+honoured custom of bringing in the boar's head--"the chief service of
+this land"--for dinner on Christmas Day; while on New Year's Day, the
+Bursar still, as has been done for nearly 600 years, bids his guests
+"take this and be thrifty," as he hands each a "needle and thread,"
+wherewith to mend their academic hoods; the /aiguille et fil/ is
+probably a pun on the name of the founder, Robert Eglesfield. The
+College at these festivities uses the loving, cup, given it by its
+founder, perhaps the oldest piece of plate in constant use anywhere
+in Great Britain; five and a half centuries of good liquor have
+stained the gold-mounted aurochs' horn to a colour of unrivalled
+softness and beauty.
+
+Robert Eglesfield was almoner of the good Queen Philippa, wife of
+Edward III, and, like Adam de Brome, the founder of Oriel, he, too,
+commended his college to a royal patron. Ever since his time, the
+"Queen's College" has been under the patronage of the Queen's consort
+of England, and the connection has been duly acknowledged by many of
+them, especially by Henrietta Maria, the evil genius of Charles I,
+and by Queen Caroline, the good genius of George II. Her present
+Gracious Majesty, too, has recognized the college claim. The Queens
+Regnant have no obligations to the college, but Queen Elizabeth gave
+it the seal it still uses, and good Queen Anne was a liberal
+contributor to the rebuilding of the college in her day; her statue
+still adorns the cupola on the front to the High.
+
+ [Plate IX. High Street]
+
+No doubt it was the royal connection which brought to Queen's, if
+tradition may be trusted, two famous warrior princes, the Black
+Prince and Henry V; though it is at least doubtful whether the
+Queen's poet, Thomas Tickell, Addison's flattering friend, had any
+authority for the picture he gives of their college life. He
+describes them as:
+
+    "Sent from the Monarch's to the Muses' Court,
+     Their meals were frugal and their sleeps were short;
+     To couch at curfew time they thought no scorn,
+     And froze at matins every winters morn."
+
+The College has an interesting portrait of the great Henry, which may
+be authentic; but that of the Black Prince, which adorns the college
+hall, is known to have been painted from a handsome Oxford butcher's
+boy, in the eighteenth century. While we condemn the lack of historic
+sense in the Provost and Fellows of that day, we may at least acquit
+them of any intention of pacificist irony in their choice of a model.
+
+Queen's has had better poets than Tickell on its rolls, but, by a
+curious chance, the two most eminent--Joseph Addison and William
+Collins--were both tempted away from their first college by the
+superior wealth and attractions of Magdalen.
+
+The old local connections which were such a marked feature in the
+statutes of founders, and which so profoundly influenced Oxford down
+to the Commission of 1854, have been almost swept away at other
+colleges; but at Queen's they have always been strongly maintained.
+It has been, and is, emphatically, a north-country college. Not the
+least important factor in maintaining this tradition has been the
+great benefaction of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, fondly and familiarly
+known to all Queen's men as "Lady Betty." Steele wrote of her when
+young, that to "love her was a liberal education"; this may have been
+flattery, but her bounty, at any rate, has given a "liberal
+education" to hundreds of north-country men, who come up from the
+twelve schools of her foundation to her college at Oxford.
+
+It is interesting to note in Modern Oxford, attempts to re-establish
+those local connections, which the wisdom of our ancestors
+established, and which the self-complacency of Victorian reformers
+"vilely cast away."
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+
+    "There the kindly fates allowed
+     Me too room, and made me proud,
+     Prouder name I have not wist,
+     With the name of Wykehamist."
+                               L. JOHNSON.
+
+
+ [Plate X. New College : The Entrance Gateway]
+
+Among the "Founders" of Oxford colleges, three stand out pre-eminent
+--all three bishops of Winchester and great public servants. If
+Wolsey has undisputed claims for first place, there can be little
+doubt that, in spite of the great public services of Bishop Foxe, the
+Founder of Corpus, the second place must be assigned to William of
+Wykeham, "sometime Lord High Chancellor of England, the sole and
+munificent founder of the two St. Mary Winton colleges." Others,
+beside Wykehamists, hear with pleasure the magnificent roll of the
+titles of the Founder of New College, when one of his intellectual
+sons occupies the University pulpit, and gives thanks for "founders
+and benefactors, such as were William of Wykeham."
+
+In Oxford, without doubt, his great claim to be remembered will be
+held to be his college with the school at Winchester, which he linked
+to it. But he was also a reformer and a champion of Parliamentary
+privilege in the days when the "Good Parliament" set to work to check
+the misgovernment of Edward III in his dotage, and, as an architect,
+he is equally famous as having given to Windsor Castle its present
+shape, and as having secured the final triumph of the Perpendicular
+style by his glorious nave at Winchester.
+
+William of Wykeham is a very striking instance of what is too often
+Forgotten--viz., that in the Mediaeval Church all professional men,
+and not simply spiritual pastors, found their work and their reward
+in the ranks of the clergy. As "supervisor of the king's works," he
+earned the royal favour, which, after sixteen years of service,
+rewarded him with the rich bishopric of Winchester. Such a career and
+such a reward seem to modern ideas incongruous, even as they did to
+John Wycliffe, his great contemporary, who complained of men being
+made bishops because they were "wise in building castles." But many
+forms of service were needed to create England; Wykeham and Wycliffe
+both have a place in the roll of its "Makers." At all events, if
+Wykeham obtained his wealth by secular service, he spent it for the
+promoting of the welfare of the Church, as he conceived it. The
+purpose of his two colleges was to remedy the shortness of clergy in
+his day, and to assist the /militia clericalis/, which had been
+grievously reduced /pestilentiis, guerris et aliis mundi miseriis/
+(an obvious reference to the Black Death).
+
+New College was planned on a scale of magnificence which far exceeded
+any of the earlier colleges. It was emphatically the "New College,"
+[1] and its foundation (it was opened in 1386) marks the final
+triumph of the college system.
+
+[1] The popular name has entirety displaced its official style.
+Rather more than a generation ago, an historically minded Wykehamist
+tried to revive the proper style of his college, and headed all his
+letters "The College, of St. Mary of Winchester, Oxford." The result
+was disastrous for him; the replies came to the Vicar of St. Mary's,
+to St. Mary's Hall, to Winchester, anywhere but to him; and very soon
+practical necessity overcame antiquarian, propriety.
+
+Its Warden was to have a state corresponding to that of the great
+mitred abbots; the stables, where he kept his six horses, on the
+south side of New College Lane (to be seen in Plate X on the right),
+show, by their perfect masonry, how well the architect-bishop chose
+his materials and how skilfully they were worked.
+
+The entrance tower, in the centre of the picture, with its statues of
+the Blessed Virgin and of the Founder in adoration below on her left,
+was the abode of the Warden; but his lodgings, still the most
+magnificent home in Oxford, extended in both directions from the
+tower.
+
+Behind this front lay Wykeham's Quad, nestling under the shadow of
+the towering chapel and hall on the north side. Here also, as in the
+stables, the technical knowledge of the Founder is seen; his
+"chambers," after more than 500 years, have still their old stone
+unrenewed; while the third story, added 300 years later on (1674-5),
+has had to be entirely refaced.
+
+But it is in the public buildings, and especially in the chapel, that
+the greatness of Wykeham, as an architect, is best seen. In spite of
+the destructive fanaticism of the Reformation, and the almost equally
+destructive "restorations" of the notorious Wyatt, and of Sir Gilbert
+Scott (who inexcusably raised the height of the roof), the chapel
+still is indisputably the finest in Oxford. And its glass may
+challenge a still wider field. The eight great windows in the ante-
+chapel, dating from the Founder's time, rival the glories of the
+French cathedrals; the windows of the chapel proper, whatever be
+thought of their artistic success, are a unique instance of what
+English glass-makers could do in the eighteenth century; and Sir
+Joshua Reynolds' west window (the outside of which is seen in the
+centre of the next picture) has at all events the suffrages of the
+majority, who agree with Horace Walpole that it is "glorious," and
+that "the sun shining through the transparencies has a magic effect."
+It must be added, however, that Walpole soon changed his mind, and
+was very severe on Sir Joshua's "washy virtues," which have been
+compared to "seven chambermaids."
+
+Not the least interesting feature of the Founder's chapel is its
+detached bell-tower, seen in the next picture, on the north side of
+the cloisters. He obtained leave to place this on the city wall, a
+large section of which the College undertook to maintain-thus adding
+a permanent charm to their own garden.
+
+The magnificence of the Founder Bishop is well seen in his splendid
+crozier, bequeathed to him by his college, and still preserved on the
+north side of the chapel. The results of his work, for Oxford and for
+learning, will be briefly told of in the next chapter.
+
+ [Plate XI. New College : The Tower]
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "Round thy cloisters, in moonlight,
+     Branching dark, or touched with white:
+     Round old chill aisles, where, moon-smitten,
+     Blanches the Orate, written
+     Under each worn old-world face."
+                                       L. JOHHSON.
+
+William of Wykeham's College had other marked features besides its
+magnificent scale. Previous colleges had grown; at New College
+everything was organized from the first. As the great architectural
+History of Cambridge says: "For the first time, chapel, hall,
+library, treasury, the Warden's lodgings, a sufficient range of
+chambers, the cloister, the various domestic offices, are provided
+for and erected without change of plan." The chapel especially gave
+the model for the T shape, a choir and transepts without a nave,
+which has become the normal form in Oxford. The influence of
+Wykeham's building plan may be traced elsewhere also--at Cambridge
+and even in Scotland.
+
+In these well-planned buildings, definite arrangements were made for
+college instruction, as opposed to the general teaching open to the
+whole University; special /informafores/ were provided, who were to
+supervise the work of all scholars up to the age of sixteen. This
+marks the beginning of the Tutorial System, which has ever since
+played so great a part in the intellectual life of England's two old
+Universities.
+
+Wykeham's scholars all came from Winchester, and were supposed to be
+/pauperes/, but as one of the first, Henry Chichele, afterwards Henry
+V's Archbishop of Canterbury and the Founder of All Souls', was a son
+of the Lord Mayor of London, it is obvious that the qualification of
+"poverty" was interpreted with some laxity. It was not until the
+middle of the nineteenth century that others than Wykehamists were
+admitted as scholars.
+
+The fact that a mere boy was elected to a position which provided for
+him for life was not calculated to stimulate subsequent intellectual
+activity, and Wykehamists themselves have been among the first to say
+that the intellectual distinction of the great bishop's beneficiaries
+has by no means corresponded to the magnificence of the foundation or
+the noble intentions of the Founder. Antony Wood records in the
+seventeenth century that there was already an "ugly proverb" as to
+New College men--"Golden scholars, silver Bachelors, leaden Masters,
+wooden Doctors," "which is attributed," he goes on, "to their rich
+fellowships, especially to their ease and good diet, in which I think
+they exceed any college else."
+
+The nineteenth century has changed all this; the small and close
+college of pre-Commission days has become one of the largest and most
+intellectual in the University; but Winchester men in their Oxford
+college fully hold their own in every way against the scholars from
+the world outside, who are now admitted to share with them the
+advantages of Wykeham's foundation.
+
+The bishop's careful provision, however, of good teaching at his
+school and in his college bore good fruit at first, whatever may have
+been the result later. If Corpus is especially the college of the
+revival of learning, New College had prepared the way, and the first
+Englishman to teach Greek in Oxford was the New College fellow,
+William Grocyn, whom Erasmus called the "most upright and best of all
+Britons." From the same college, about the same time, came the patron
+of Erasmus, Archbishop Warham, of whose saintly simplicity and love
+of learning he gives so attractive a picture. Warham was not
+forgetful of his old college, and presented the beautiful "linen
+fold" panelling which still adorns the hall.
+
+At the time of the Reformation, New College was especially attached
+to the old form of the faith, and it has been maintained that the
+dangerous lowness of the wicket entrance in the Gate Tower was due to
+the deliberate purpose of the governing body, who resolved that
+everyone who entered the college, however Protestant his views,
+should bow his head under the statue of the Blessed Virgin above. At
+any rate, one New College man in the seventeenth century attributed
+his perversion to "the lively memorials of Popery in statues and
+pictures in the gates and in the chapel of New College."
+
+Certain it is that under Elizabeth, after the purging of the college
+from its recusant fellows, who contributed a large share of the Roman
+controversialists to the colleges of Louvain and Douai, Wykeham's
+foundation sank, as has been said, into inglorious ease for two
+centuries. Yet, during this period, it had the honour of producing
+two of the Seven Bishops who resisted King James II's attack on the
+English Constitution--one of them the saintly hymn writer, Thomas
+Ken. And to the darkest days of the eighteenth century belongs the
+most famous picture of the ideal Oxford life: "I spent many years, in
+that illustrious society, in a well-regulated course of useful
+discipline and studies, and in the agreeable and improving commerce
+of gentlemen and of scholars; in a society where emulation without
+envy, ambition without jealousy, contention without animosity,
+incited industry and awakened genius; where a liberal pursuit of
+knowledge and a genuine freedom of thought was raised, encouraged,
+and pushed forward by example, by commendation, and by authority."
+These were the words of Bishop Lowth, whose great work on /The Poetry
+of the Hebrews/ was delivered as lectures for the Chair of Poetry at
+Oxford.
+
+The spirit of Oxford has never been better described, and even that
+bitter critic, the great historian Gibbon, admits that Lowth
+practised what he preached, and that he was an ornament to the
+University in its darkest period. Of the days of Reform a forerunner
+was found in Sydney Smith, the witty Canon of St. Paul's.
+
+The names of New College men famous for learning or for political
+success, during the last half-century, are too recent to mention, but
+it is fitting to put on record that to New College belongs the sad
+distinction of having the longest Roll of Honour in the late War. It
+has lost about 250 of its sons, including four of the most
+distinguished young tutors in Oxford; History and Philosophy,
+Scholarship and Natural Science are all of them the poorer for the
+premature loss of Cheesman and Heath, Hunter and Geoffrey Smith;
+their names are familiar to everyone in Oxford, and they would have
+been familiar some day to the world of scholars everywhere. /Dis
+aliter visum est/.
+
+
+
+
+LINCOLN COLLEGE
+
+
+    "This is the chapel; here, my son,
+       Thy father dreamed the dreams of youth,
+     And heard the words, which, one by one,
+       The touch of life has turned to truth."
+                                       NEWBOLT.
+
+
+ [Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel Interior]
+
+The name of Lincoln College recalls a fact familiar to all students
+of ecclesiastical history, though surprising to the ordinary man--
+viz., that Oxford, till the Reformation, was in the great diocese of
+Lincoln, which stretched right across the Midlands from the Humber to
+the Thames. This fact had an important bearing on the history of the
+University; its bishop was near enough to help and protect, but not
+near enough to interfere constantly. Hence arose the curious position
+of the Oxford Chancellor, the real head of the mediaeval University
+and still its nominal head; though an ecclesiastical dignitary, and
+representing the Bishop, the Oxford Chancellor was not a cathedral
+official, but the elect of the resident Masters of Arts. How
+important this arrangement was for the independence of the University
+will be obvious.
+
+The ecclesiastical position of Oxford is responsible also for the
+foundation of four of its colleges; both Lincoln and Brasenose,
+colleges that touch each other, were founded by Bishops of Lincoln;
+Foxe and Wolsey, too, though holding other sees later, ruled over the
+great midland diocese.
+
+Richard Fleming, the Bishop of Lincoln, who founded the college that
+bears the name of his see, was in some ways a remarkable man. When
+resident in Oxford, he had been prominent among the followers of John
+Wycliffe and had shared his reforming views; but he was alarmed at
+the development of his master's teaching in the hands of disciples,
+and set himself to oppose the movement which he had once favoured. He
+founded his "little college" with the express object of training
+"theologians" "to defend the mysteries of the sacred page against
+those ignorant laics, who profaned with swinish snouts its most holy
+pearls." It is curious that Lincoln's great title to fame--and it is
+a very great one--is that its most distinguished fellow was John
+Wesley, the Wycliffe of the eighteenth century.
+
+The connection of Oxford and Lincoln College with Wesley and his
+movement is no accidental one, based merely on the fact that he
+resided there for a certain time. Humanly speaking, Wesley's
+connection with Lincoln was a determining factor in his spiritual and
+mental development, and it was while he was there that his followers
+received the name of "Methodists," a name given in scorn, but one
+which has become a thing of pride to millions. Wesley was a fellow of
+Lincoln for nine years, from 1726 to 1735. During the most
+impressionable years of a man's life--he was only twenty-three when
+he was elected fellow--he was developing his mental powers by an
+elaborate course of studies, and his spiritual life by the careful
+use of every form of religious discipline which the Church
+prescribed. A college, with its daily services and its life apart
+from the world, rendered the practice of such discipline possible. It
+was because Wesley and his followers, his brother Charles, George
+Whitefield and others, observed this discipline so carefully that
+they obtained their nickname. It is with good reason that Lincoln
+Chapel is visited by his disciples from all parts of the world; it
+has been little altered since his time, his pulpit is still here, and
+the glass and the carving which make it very interesting, if not
+beautiful, are those which he saw daily.
+
+The chapel is the memorial of the devotion to Lincoln of another
+churchman, more successful than Wesley from a worldly point of view,
+but now forgotten by all except professed students of history. John
+Williams, Bishop of Lincoln from 1621 to 1641, was the last
+ecclesiastic who "kept" the Great Seal of England. He had the
+misfortune to differ from Laud on the Church Question of the day, and
+was prosecuted before the Star Chamber for subornation of perjury,
+and heavily fined. There seems no doubt that he was guilty; but it
+was to advocacy of moderation and to his dislike of the king's
+arbitrary rule that he owed the severity of his punishment. Whatever
+his moral character, at all events he gave his college a beautiful
+little chapel, which is often compared to the slightly older one at
+Wadham; that of Lincoln is much the less spacious of the two, but in
+its wood carvings, at any rate, it is superior.
+
+Lincoln had the ill-fortune, in the nineteenth century, to produce
+the writer of one of those academic "Memoirs," which reveal, with a
+scholar's literary style, and also with a scholar's bitterness, the
+intrigues and quarrels that from time to time arise within college
+walls. Mark Pattison is likely to be remembered by the world in
+general because he is said to have been the original of George
+Eliot's "Mr. Casaubon"; in Oxford he will be remembered not only for
+the "Memoirs," but also as one who upheld the highest ideal of
+"Scholarship" when it was likely to be forgotten, and who criticized
+the neglect of "research." The personal attacks were those of a
+disappointed man; the criticisms, one-sided as they were, were
+certainly not unjustified.
+
+A university should certainly exist to promote learning, and Mark
+Pattison, with all his unfairness, certainly helped its cause in
+Oxford. But a university exists also for the promotion of friendships
+among young men, and for the development of their social life. Of
+this duty, Oxford has never been unmindful, and perhaps it is in
+small colleges like Lincoln that the flowers of friendship best
+flourish. It is needless to make comparisons, for they flourish
+everywhere; but it is appropriate to quote, when writing of one of
+the smaller Oxford colleges, the verses on this subject of a recent
+Lincoln poet (now dead); they will come home to every Oxford man:
+
+    "City of my loves and dreams,
+     Lady throned by limpid streams;
+     'Neath the shadow of thy towers,
+     Numbered I my happiest hours.
+     Here the youth became a man;
+     Thought and reason here began.
+     Ah! my friends, I thought you then
+     Perfect types of perfect men:
+     Glamour fades, I know not how,
+     Ye have all your failings now,"
+
+But Oxford friendships outlast the discovery that friends have
+"failings"; as Lord Morley, who went to Lincoln in 1856, writes:
+"Companionship (at Oxford) was more than lectures"; a friend's
+failure later (he refers to his contemporary, Cotter Morison's
+/Service of Man/) "could not impair the captivating comradeship of
+his prime."
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+
+
+    "Where yearly in that vernal hour
+     The sacred city is in shades reclining,
+     With gilded turrets in the sunrise shining:
+     From sainted Magdalene's aerial tower
+     Sounds far aloof that ancient chant are singing,
+     And round the heart again those solemn memories bringing."
+                                     ISAAC WILLIAMS.
+
+Macaulay was too good a Cambridge man to appreciate an Oxford college
+at its full worth; but he devotes one of his finest purple patches to
+the praise of Magdalen, ending, as is fitting, "with the spacious
+gardens along the river side," which, by the way, are not "gardens."
+Antony Wood praises Magdalen as "the most noble and rich structure in
+the learned world," with its water walks as "delectable as the banks
+of Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont to walk." To go a century
+further back, the Elizabethan, Sir John Davies, wrote:
+
+    "O honeyed Magdalen, sweete, past compare
+     Of all the blissful heavens on earth that are."
+
+Such praises could be multiplied indefinitely, and they are all
+deserved.
+
+The good genius of Magdalen has been faithful to it throughout. The
+old picturesque buildings on the High Street, taken over (1457) by
+the Founder, William of Waynflete, from the already existing hospital
+of St. John, were completed by his munificence in the most attractive
+style of English fifteenth century domestic architecture; Chapel and
+Hall, Cloisters and Founder's Tower, all alike are among the most
+beautiful in Oxford. When classical taste prevailed, the
+architectural purists of the eighteenth century were for sweeping
+almost all this away, and had a plan prepared for making a great
+classic quad; but wiser counsels, or lack of funds, thwarted this
+vandalistic design, and only the north side of the new quad was
+built, to give Magdalen a splendid specimen of eighteenth century
+work, without prejudice to the old. And in our own day, the genius of
+Bodley has raised in St. Swithun's Quad a building worthy of the best
+days of Oxford, while the hideous plaster roof, with which the
+mischievous Wyatt had marred the beauty of the hall, was removed, and
+a seemly oak roof put in its place. It is a great thing to be
+thankful for, that one set of college buildings in Oxford, though
+belonging to so many periods, has nothing that is not of the best.
+
+But the great glory of Magdalen has not yet been mentioned. This is,
+without doubt, its bell tower, which, standing just above the River
+Cherwell, is worthily seen, whether from near or far. A most curious
+and interesting custom is preserved in connection with it. Every May
+morning, at five o'clock (in Antony Wood's time the ceremony was an
+hour earlier), the choir mounts the tower and sings a hymn, which is
+part of the college grace; in the eighteenth century, however, the
+music was of a secular nature and lasted two hours. The ceremony has
+been made the subject of a great picture by Holman Hunt, and has been
+celebrated in many poems; the sonnet of Sir Herbert Warren, the
+present President, may be quoted as worthily expressing something of
+what has been felt by many generations of Magdalen men:
+
+    "Morn of the year, of day and May the prime,
+     How fitly do we scale the steep dark stair,
+     Into the brightness of the matin air,
+     To praise with chanted hymn and echoing chime,
+     Dear Lord of Light, thy  sublime,
+     That stooped erewhile our life's frail weeds to wear!
+     Sun, cloud and hill, all things thou fam'st so fair,
+     With us are glad and gay, greeting the time.
+     The College of the Lily leaves her sleep,
+     The grey tower rocks and trembles into sound,
+     Dawn-smitten Memnon of a happier hour;
+     Through faint-hued fields the silver waters creep:
+     Day grows, birds pipe, and robed anew and crowned,
+     Green Spring trips forth to set the world aflower."
+
+The tower was put to a far different use when, in the Civil War, it
+was the fortress against an attack from the east, and stones were
+piled on its top to overwhelm any invader who might force the bridge.
+
+Tradition connects this tower with the name of Magdalen's greatest
+son, Thomas Wolsey, who took his B.A. about 1486, at the age of
+fifteen, as he himself in his old age proudly told his servant and
+biographer, Cavendish. Certainty he was first Junior and then Senior
+Bursar for a time, while the tower was building, 1492-1504. But the
+scandal that he had to resign his bursarship for misappropriation of
+funds in connection with the tower may certainly be rejected.
+
+On the right of Magdalen Bridge, looking at the tower, as we see it
+in the picture, stretches Magdalen Meadow, round which run the famous
+water walks. The part of these on the north-west side is especially
+connected with Joseph Addison, who was a fellow at Magdalen from 1697
+to 1711. He was elected "demy" (at Magdalen, scholars bear this name)
+the first year (1689) after the Revolution, when the fellows of
+Magdalen had been restored to their rights, so outrageously invaded
+by King James. This "golden" election was famous in Magdalen annals,
+at once for the number elected--seventeen--and for the fame of some
+of those elected. Besides the greatest of English essayists, there
+were among the new "demies," a future archbishop, a future bishop,
+and the high Tory, Henry Sacheverell, whose fiery but unbalanced
+eloquence overthrew the great Whig Ministry, which had been the
+patron of his college contemporary.
+
+Magdalen Meadow preserves still the well-beloved Oxford fritillaries,
+which are in danger of being extirpated in the fields below Iffley by
+the crowds who gather them to sell in the Oxford market.
+
+Of the part of the College on the High Street, the most interesting
+portion is the old stone pulpit (shown in Plate XIV). The connection
+of this with the old Hospital of St. John is still marked by the
+custom of having the University sermon here on St. John the Baptist's
+Day; this was the invariable rule till the eighteenth century, and
+the pulpit (Hearne says) was "all beset with boughs, by way of
+allusion to St. John Baptist's preaching in the wilderness." Even as
+early as Heame's time, however, a wet morning drove preacher and
+audience into the chapel, and open-air sermons were soon given up
+altogether, only to be revived (weather permitting) in our own day.
+ The chapel lies to the left of the pulpit, and is known all the
+world over for its music; there are three famous choirs in Oxford--
+those of the Cathedral, of New College, and of Magdalen, and to the
+last, as a rule, the palm is assigned. It is to Oxford what the choir
+of King's is to Cambridge; but the chapel of Magdalen has not
+
+    "The high embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof,
+     And storied windows richly dight,
+     Casting a dim religious light"
+
+of the "Royal Saint's" great chapel at Cambridge.
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+    "Sing sweetly, blessed babes that suck the breast
+     Of this sweet nectar-dropping Magdalen,
+     Their praise in holy hymns, by whom ye feast,
+     The God of gods and Waynflete, best of men,
+     Sing in an union with the Angel's quires,
+     Sith Heaven's your house."
+                                        SIR J. DAVIES.
+
+Magdalen College was founded by William of Waynflete, Bishop of
+Winchester, who had been a faithful minister of Henry VI. He had
+served as both Master and Provost of the King's own college at Eton
+(and also as Master of Winchester College before), and from Eton he
+brought the lilies which still figure in the Magdalen shield. As a
+member of the Lancastrian party, he fell into disgrace when the
+Yorkists triumphed, but he made his peace with Edward IV, whose
+statue stands over the west door of the chapel, with those of St.
+Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, St. Swithun (Bishop of
+Winchester), and the Founder. And the Tudors were equally friendly to
+the new foundation; Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's unfortunate elder
+brother, was a resident in Magdalen on two occasions, and the College
+has still a splendid memorial of him in the great contemporary
+tapestry, representing his marriage with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+To the very early days of Magdalen belongs its connection with the
+Oxford Reform Movement and the Revival of Learning. Both Fox and
+Wolsey, successively Bishops of Winchester, and the munificent
+founders of Corpus and of Cardinal (i.e. Christ Church) Colleges,
+were members of Waynflete's foundation, and so probably was John
+Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, whose learning and piety so impressed
+Erasmus. "When I listen to my beloved Colet," he writes in 1499, "I
+seem to be listening to Plato himself"; and he asks--why go to Italy
+when Oxford can supply a climate "as charming as it is healthful" and
+"such culture and learning, deep, exact and worthy of the good old
+times ?" Erasmus' praise of Oxford climate is unusual from a
+foreigner; the more usual view is that of his friend Vives, who came
+to Oxford soon after as a lecturer at the new college of Corpus
+Christi; he writes from Oxford: "The weather here is windy, foggy and
+damp, and gave me a rough reception."
+
+Colet's lectures on the Epistle to the Romans, perhaps delivered in
+Magdalen College, marked an epoch in the way of the interpretation of
+Holy Scripture, by their freedom from traditional methods and by
+their endeavour to employ the best of the New Learning in determining
+the real meaning of the Apostle. To the same school as Colet in the
+Church belonged Reginald Pole, Archbishop in the gloomy days of Queen
+Mary, the only Magdalen man who has held the See of Canterbury.
+
+Elizabeth visited the College, and gently rebuked the Puritan
+tendencies of the then President, Dr. Humphrey, who carried his
+scruples so far as to object to the academical scarlet he had to wear
+as a Doctor of Divinity, because it savoured of the "Scarlet Woman."
+"Dr. Humphrey," said the queen, with the tact alike of a Tudor
+sovereign and of a true woman, "methinks this gown and habit become
+you very well, and I marvel that you are so strait-laced on this
+point--but I come not now to chide." This President complained that
+his headship was "more payneful than gayneful," a charge not usually
+brought against headships at Oxford.
+
+In the seventeenth century, Magdalen was, for a short time, the very
+centre of England's interest. James II, in his desire to force Roman
+Catholicism on Oxford, tried to fill the vacant Presidency with one
+of his co-religionists. His first nominee was not only disqualified
+under the statutes, but was also a man of so notoriously bad a
+character that even the king had to drop him. Meanwhile, the fellows,
+having waited, in order to oblige James, till the last possible
+moment allowed by the statutes, filled up the vacancy by electing one
+of their own number, John Hough. When the king pronounced this
+election irregular and demanded the removal of the President and the
+acceptance of his second nominee, the fellows declared themselves
+unable thus to violate their statutes, even at royal command, and
+were accordingly driven out. The "demies," who were offered
+nominations to the fellowships thus rendered vacant, supported their
+seniors, and, in their turn, too, were driven out; they had showed
+their contempt for James' intruded fellows by "cocking their hats" at
+them, and by drinking confusion to the Pope. When the landing of
+William of Orange was threatening, James revoked all these arbitrary
+proceedings, but it was too late; he had brought home, by a striking
+example, to Oxford and to England, that no amount of past services,
+no worthiness of character, no statutes, however clear and binding,
+were to weigh for a moment with a royal bigot, who claimed the power
+to "dispense" with any statutes. The "Restoration" of the Fellows on
+October 25, 1688, is still celebrated by a College Gaudy, when the
+toast for the evening is /jus suum cuique/.
+
+Hough remained President for thirteen years, during most of which
+time he was bishop--first of Oxford and then of Lichfield. He finally
+was translated to Worcester, where he died at the age of ninety-
+three, after declining the Archbishopric of Canterbury. His monument,
+in his cathedral, records his famous resistance to arbitrary
+authority.
+
+Magdalen in the eighteenth century has an unenviable reputation,
+owing to the memoirs of its most famous historian, Edward Gibbon, who
+matriculated, in 1752, and who describes the fourteen months which
+elapsed before he was expelled for becoming a Roman Catholic, "as the
+most idle and unprofitable of my whole life." The "Monks of
+Magdalen," as he calls the fellows, "decent, easy men," "supinely
+enjoyed the gifts of the founder." It should be added that Gibbon was
+not quite fifteen when he entered the College, and that his picture
+of it is no doubt coloured by personal bitterness. But its
+substantial justice is admitted. Certainly, nothing could be feebler
+than the /Vindication of Magdalen College/, published by a fellow
+James Hurdis, the Professor of Poetry; his intellectual calibre may
+perhaps be gauged from the exquisite silliness of his poem, "The
+Village Curate," of which the following lines, addressed to the
+Oxford heads of houses, are a fair specimen:
+
+                              "Ye profound
+    And serious heads, who guard the twin retreats
+    Of British learning, give the studious boy
+    His due indulgence. Let him range the field,
+    Frequent the public walk, and freely pull
+    The yielding oar. But mark the truant well,
+    And if he turn aside to vice or folly,
+    Show him the rod, and let him feel you prize
+    The parent's happiness, the public good."
+
+Magdalen might fairly claim that a place so beautiful as it is,
+justifies itself by simply existing, and the perfection of its
+buildings and the beauty of its music must appeal, even to our own
+utilitarian age. But it has many other justifications besides its
+beauty; its great wealth is being continually applied to assist the
+University by the endowment of new professorships, especially for the
+Natural Sciences, and to aid real students, whether those who have
+made, or those who are likely to make, a reputation as researchers.
+It is needless to mention names: every Oxford man and every lover of
+British learning knows them.
+
+ [Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air Pulpit]
+
+For the world in general, which cares not for research, the success
+of the College under its present President, Sir Herbert Warren,
+himself at once a poet and an Oxford Professor of Poetry, will be
+evidenced by its increase in numbers and by its athletic successes.
+They will judge as our King judged when he chose Magdalen for the
+academic home of the Prince of Wales. The Prince, unlike other royal
+persons at Magdalen and elsewhere, lived (1912-14) not in the
+lodgings of the President, or among dons and professors, but in his
+own set of rooms, like any ordinary undergraduate. He showed, in
+Oxford, that power of self-adaptation which has since won him golden
+opinions in the great Dominion and the greater Republic of the West.
+
+
+
+
+BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Of the colleges of Oxford, Exeter is the most
+     proper for western, Queen's for northern, and
+     Brasenose for north-western men."
+                                FULLER, /Worthies/.
+
+ [Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and Radcliffe Library]
+
+Brasenose college is in the very centre of the University, fronting
+as it does on Radcliffe Square, where Gibbs' beautiful dome supplies
+the Bodleian with a splendid reading-room. And this site has always
+been consecrated to students; where the front of Brasenose now stands
+ran School Street, leading from the old /Scholae Publicae/, in which
+the disputations of the Mediaeval University were held, to St. Mary's
+Church.
+
+It was from this neighbourhood that some Oxford scholars migrated to
+Stamford in 1334, in order to escape one of the many Town and Gown
+rows, which rendered Mediaeval Oxford anything but a place of quiet
+academic study. They seem to have carried with them the emblem of
+their hall, a fine sanctuary knocker of brass, representing a lion's
+head, with a ring through its nose; this knocker was installed at a
+house in Stamford, which still retains the name it gave, "Brasenose
+Hall." The knocker itself was there till 1890, when the College
+recovered the relic (it now hangs in the hall). The students were
+compelled by threats of excommunication to return to their old
+university, and down to the beginning of the nineteenth century,
+Oxford men, when admitted to the degree of M.A., were compelled to
+swear "not to lecture at Stamford."
+
+The old "King's Hall," which bore the name of "Brasenose," was
+transformed into a college in 1511 by the munificence of our first
+lay founder, Sir Richard Sutton; he shared his benevolence, however,
+with Bishop Smith, of Lincoln. The College celebrated, in 1911, its
+quatercentenary in an appropriate way, by publishing its register in
+full, with a group of most interesting monographs on various aspects
+of the College history.
+
+The buildings are a good example of the typical Oxford college; the
+Front Quad, shown in our picture, belongs to the time of the
+Founders, but the picturesque third story of dormer windows, which
+give it a special charm, dates from the reign of James I, when all
+colleges were rapidly increasing their numbers and their
+accommodation. Of the rest of the buildings of Brasenose, the chapel
+deserves special notice, for it was the last effort of the Gothic
+style in Oxford, and it was actually finished in the days of
+Cromwell, not a period likely to be favourable to the erection of new
+college chapels.
+
+Brasenose (or B.N.C., as it is universally called) has produced a
+prime minister of England in Henry Addington, whom the college record
+kindly describes as "not the most distinguished" statesman who has
+held that position: but a much better known worthy is John Foxe, the
+Martyrologist, whose chained works used to add a grim charm of horror
+to so many parish churches in England; the experiences of the young
+Macaulay, at Cheddar, are an example which could be paralleled by
+those of countless young readers of Foxe, who, however, did not
+become great historians and are forgotten. Somewhat junior to Foxe,
+at B.N.C., was Robert Burton, the author of the /Anatomy of
+Melancholy/, who found both his lifework as a parish vicar, and his
+burial-place in Oxford.
+
+But these names, and the names of many other B.N.C. worthies, hardly
+attain to the first rank in the annals of England's life. The
+distinguishing features of the College have long been its special
+connection with the Palatine counties, Lancashire and Cheshire, and
+its prominence in the athletic life which is so large a part of
+Oxford's attraction. To the connection with Lancashire, B.N.C. owes
+the name of its college boat, "The Child of Hale"; for John
+Middleton, the famous, giant, who is said to have been 9 ft. 3 in.
+high (perhaps measurements were loose when James I was king), was
+invited by the members of his county to visit the College, where he
+is said to have left a picture of his hand; this the ever curious
+Pepys paid 2s. to see. A more profitable connection between
+Lancashire and B.N.C. is the famous Hulmeian endowment, which is
+almost a record instance of the value of the unearned increment of
+land to a learned foundation.
+
+The rowing men of Brasenose are as famous as the scholars of Balliol.
+The poet parodist, half a century ago, described her as:
+
+    "Queen of the Isis wave,
+     Who trains her crews on beef and beer,
+     Competitors to brave,"
+
+and the lines written in jest were a true compliment. The young
+manhood of England had maintained its vigour by its love of
+athletics, and has learned, in the discipline of the athletic club,
+how to obey and also how to command. Hence it was fitting that to
+B.N.C. should fall the honour of giving to Britain her greatest
+soldier in the Great War; Lord Haig of Bemerside was an undergraduate
+member of the College in the 'eighties of the last century, and the
+College has honoured him and itself by making him an Honorary Fellow.
+
+Most Oxford colleges have their quaint and distinctive customs; that
+of Brasenose was certainly not inappropriate to the character that
+has just been sketched. Every Shrove Tuesday some junior member of
+the College presented verses to the butler in honour of Brasenose
+ale, and received a draught in return. The custom is recorded by
+Hearne more than two hundred years ago, and may well be older,
+though, as the poet of the Quatercentenary sadly confessed, its
+attribution to King Alfred--
+
+    "Our woven fantasy of Alfred's ale,
+     By conclusive cut of critic dry,
+     Is shredded clean away."
+
+The most distinguished poet who thus commemorated the special drink
+of England and of B.N.C. was Reginald Heber, bishop and hymn-writer,
+who composed the verses in 1806; the compositions have been collected
+and published at least three times. When the old brew-house was
+pulled down to make room for the New Quad, the College gave up
+brewing its own beer, and its poets ceased to celebrate it; but the
+custom was revived, as has been said, in 1909. It may be permitted to
+a non-Brasenose man to quote and echo the patriotic expressions of
+the versifier of 1886:
+
+    "Shall Brasenose, therefore, fail to hold her own?
+     She nerves herself, anew, for coming strife,
+     Her vigorous pulses beat with strength and life.
+     Courage, my brothers! Troubles past forget!
+     On to fresh deeds! the gods love Brasenose yet."
+
+
+
+
+CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+
+
+    "But still the old quadrangle keeps the same,
+       The pelican is here;
+     Ancestral genius of the place, whose name
+       All Corpus men revere."
+              J. J. C., in "/The Pelican Record/," 1700.
+
+ [Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First Quadrangle]
+
+Corpus is emphatically, before all other colleges in Oxford, the
+college of the Revival of Learning; its very foundation marked the
+change from the old order of things to the new. Its Founder, Bishop
+Foxe, of Winchester, was one of the great statesman-prelates to whom
+mediaeval England owed so much, and he had a leading share in
+arranging the two royal marriages which so profoundly affected the
+history of our country, that of Henry VII's daughter, Margaret, with
+the King of Scotland, and that of his son, afterwards Henry VIII,
+with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+After a life spent "in the service of God" "in the State," rather
+than "in the Church," Foxe resolved to devote some of his great
+wealth to a foundation for the strengthening of the Church. His first
+intention was to found a college for monks, but, fortunately for his
+memory and for Oxford, he followed the advice of his friend, Bishop
+Oldham, of Exeter, who told him, in words truly prophetic, that the
+days of monasteries were past: "What, my lord, shall we build housed
+for a company of buzzing monks, whose end and fall we ourselves may
+live to see? No, no, it is more meet a great deal that we should have
+care to provide for the increase of learning." In the next generation
+the monasteries were all swept away, while Foxe's College remains a
+monument of the Founder's pious liberality and of his friend's wise
+prescience.
+
+Corpus was the first institution in England where definite provision
+was made for a teacher of the Greek Language, and Erasmus hailed it
+with enthusiasm; in a letter to the first President of the new
+college, he definitely contrasts the conciliatory methods of
+Reformers in England with the more violent methods of those in
+Germany, and counts Foxe's foundation, which he compares to the
+Pyramids of Egypt or the Colossus of Rhodes, among "the chief glories
+of Britain."
+
+Foxe, however, did not confine his benefactions to classical studies,
+important as these were. He imported a German to teach his scholars
+mathematics, and the scientific tastes of his students are well
+illustrated by the picturesque and curious dial, still in the centre
+of his College Quad, which was constructed by one of them in the
+reign of Elizabeth. It is well shown in our picture, as are also
+Foxe's charming low buildings, almost unaltered since the time of
+their Founder.
+
+But it has been on the humanistic, rather than on the scientific,
+side that Corpus men have specially distinguished themselves. The
+first century of the College existence produced the two great
+Elizabethan champions of Anglicanism. Bishop Jewel, whose "Apology"
+was for a long period the great bulwark of the English Church against
+Jesuit attacks, had laid the foundations of his great learning in the
+Corpus Library, still--after that of Merton--the most picturesque in
+Oxford; he often spent whole days there, beginning an hour before
+Early Mass, i.e. at 4 a.m., and continuing his reading till 10 p.m.
+"There were giants on the earth in those days." Even more famous is
+the "judicious Hooker," who resided in the college for sixteen years,
+and only left it when, by the wiles of a woman, he, "like a true
+Nathanael who feared no guile" (as his biographer, Isaac Walton,
+writes), was entrapped into a marriage which "brought him neither
+beauty nor fortune." The first editor of his great work, /The
+Ecclesiastical Polity/, was a Corpus man, and it was only fitting
+that the Anglican Revival of the nineteenth century should receive
+its first impulse from the famous Assize Sermon (in 1833) of another
+Corpus scholar, John Keble.
+
+Corpus has been singularly fortunate in its history, no doubt because
+its Presidents have been so frequently men of mark for learning and
+for character. Even in the dark period of the eighteenth century it
+recovered sooner than the rest of the University, and one of its sons
+records complacently that "scarcely a day passed without my having
+added to my stock of knowledge some new fact or idea." A charming
+picture of the life of the scholars of Corpus at the beginning of the
+last century is given in Stanley's /Life of Arnold/; for the famous
+reformer of the English public-school system was at the College
+immediately after John Keble, whom he followed as fellow to Oriel, on
+the other side of the road. It need hardly be added that in those
+days an Oriel Fellowship was the crown of intellectual distinction in
+Oxford.
+
+Bishop Foxe had set up his college as a "ladder" by which, "with one
+side of it virtue and the other knowledge," men might, while they
+"are strangers and pilgrims in this unhappy and dying world," "mount
+more easily to heaven." Changing his metaphor he goes on, "We have
+founded and raised up in the University of Oxford a hive wherein
+scholars, like intelligent bees, may, night and day, build up wax to
+the glory of God, and gather honeyed sweets for their own profit and
+that of all Christian men." So far as it is given to human
+institutions to succeed, his college has fulfilled his aims.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+ [Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Meadows]
+
+
+    "Those voiceless towers so tranquil seem,
+     And yet so solemn in their might,
+     A loving heart could almost deem
+     That they themselves might conscious be
+     That they were filled with immortality."
+                                   F. W. FABER.
+
+The east end of Oxford Cathedral, shown both in the frontispiece
+(Plate I) and Plate XVII, probably contains the oldest buildings,
+above ground, in Oxford. Inside the cathedral can clearly be seen
+traces of three round arches, which may well be part of the church
+founded by St. Frideswyde in the eighth century. That princess,
+according to the tradition, the details of which are all pictured by
+Burne-Jones in the east window of the Latin Chapel, having escaped by
+a miracle the advances of too ardent a suitor, founded a nunnery at
+Oxford. The nunnery, which was later transferred to Canons, was
+undoubtedly the earliest institution in Oxford, and in its cloisters,
+in the second decade of the twelfth century, we hear of students
+gathering for instruction. It was this old monastery, which Wolsey,
+with his reforming zeal, chose as the site of his great Cardinal
+College, and the chapel of the old foundation was to serve for his
+new one, until such time as a great new chapel, rivalling in
+splendour that of King's College at Cambridge, had been built on the
+north side of Tom Quad. This new chapel never got beyond the stage of
+foundations; and hence the old building has continued to serve the
+college till this day, having been made also the cathedral of the new
+diocese of Oxford, which was founded by King Henry VIII. Wolsey may,
+perhaps, be credited with the fine fan tracery of the choir roof, but
+he certainly swept away three bays of the nave in order to carry out
+his ambitious building plans, and only one of these three bays has
+been restored in the nineteenth century.
+
+Wolsey's action at Christ Church was significant. Men felt that the
+days of monasteries were past, and the Church was ready to welcome
+and to extend the New Learning. But his changes were a dangerous
+precedent; as Fuller says with his usual quaintness: "All the forest
+of religious foundations in England did shake, justly fearing the
+King would finish to fell the oaks, seeing the Cardinal began to cut
+the underwood." Henry, however, when he swept away the monasteries,
+spared his great minister's work; modifying it, however, as has just
+been said, by associating the newly-founded college with the diocese
+of Oxford, now formed out of the unwieldy See of Lincoln.
+
+The cathedral is the smallest in England, but contains many features
+of special interest; its most marked peculiarity is the great breadth
+of the choir, due to the addition of two aisles on the north side;
+these were built to gain more room for the worshippers at the shrine
+of St. Frideswyde. Another feature of architectural interest is the
+spire, which is one of the earliest in England. But perhaps even more
+interesting is the wonderful series of glass windows, which give good
+examples of almost every English style from the fourteenth to the
+nineteenth century. And for once the moderns can hold their own; the
+Burne-Jones windows of the choir (not, however, the Frideswyde
+window, already mentioned) are particularly beautiful.
+
+The hand of the "restorer" has been active at Christ Church, as
+elsewhere in Oxford; Gilbert Scott took on himself to remove a fine
+fourteenth-century window from the east end of the choir, and to
+substitute the Norman work shown in Plate I. The effect is admittedly
+good, but it may be questioned whether it be right to falsify
+architectural history in this way.
+
+Oxford Cathedral has great associations apart from the college to
+which it belongs. It was to it that Cranmer was brought to receive
+the Pope's sentence of condemnation, and in the cloisters the
+ceremony of his degradation from the archbishopric was carried out.
+Almost a century later the Cathedral was the centre of the religious
+life of the Royalist party; when Charles I made his capital in Oxford
+and his home in Christ Church, and when the Cavaliers fought to the
+war-cry of "Church and King." It is not surprising that, when the
+Parliamentarians entered Oxford, the windows of the Cathedral were
+much "abused"; that so much old glass was spared was probably due to
+the local patriotism of old Oxford men.
+
+In the next century it was to Christ Church that Bishop Berkeley, the
+greatest of British philosophers, retired to end his days, and to
+find a burial-place; and, during the long life of Dr. Pusey, the
+Cathedral of Oxford was a place of pilgrimage, as the living centre
+of the Oxford movement.
+
+In the back of the picture (Plate XVII), behind the Cathedral, rises
+the square tower, put up by Mr. Bodley to contain the famous Christ
+Church peal of bells (now twelve in number), familiar through Dean
+Aldrich's famous round, "Hark, the bonny Christ Church bells." When
+the tower was erected, it was the subject of much criticism,
+especially from the witty pen of C. L. Dodgson, the world-famous
+creator of /Alice in Wonderland/. The opening paragraph is a fair
+specimen:
+    "Of the etymological significance of the new belfry, Christ
+Church.
+    "The word 'belfry' is derived from the French '/bel/-- beautiful,
+meet,' and from the German '/frei/--free, unfettered, safe.' Thus the
+word is strictly equivalent to 'meat-safe,' to which the new belfry
+bears a resemblance so perfect as almost to amount to coincidence."
+
+Others saw in the uncompromising squareness of the new tower a subtle
+compliment to the Greek lexicon of Liddell, who then was Dean. But in
+spite of the wits, who resented any innovation in so famous a group
+of buildings, Bodley's tower is a fine one, and really enhances the
+effect of Tom Quad.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+
+
+    "And love the high-embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof."
+                                MILTON
+
+ [Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall Staircase]
+
+When Wolsey began to build what he intended to be the most splendid
+college in the world, the first part to be finished was the dining-
+hall, with the kitchen. The wits of the time made very merry at this:
+their epigram /Egregium opus! Cardinalis iste instituit collegium et
+absolvit popinam/ may be rendered:
+
+    "Here's a fine piece of work! Your Cardinal
+     A college plans, completes a guzzling-hall."
+
+Certainly the hall of Christ Church is the finest "popina" which has
+ever been abused by envious critics; its size and magnificence place
+it easily first among the halls of Oxford, and its great outline
+stands conspicuous in all views of Oxford from the south, whether by
+day, or when by night, to quote M. Arnold's "Thyrsis":
+
+     "The line of festal light in Christ Church Hall"
+
+shines afar. And the kitchen, a perfect cube in shape, is worthy of
+the hall which it feeds, and is, perhaps, more appreciated by many of
+Oxford's visitors; for the taste for meringues is more common than
+that for masterpieces of portraiture. The report to Wolsey, in 1526,
+by his agent, the Warden of New College, is still true; the kitchen
+is "substantially and goodly done, in such manner as no two of the
+best colleges in Oxford have rooms so goodly and convenient."
+
+The approach to the hall, seen in Plate XVIII, is later than Wolsey's
+work, but is fully worthy of him. The beautiful fan tracery, which
+hardly suffers by being compared with Henry VII's Chapel at
+Westminster, was put up, extraordinary as it may seem, in the middle
+of the seventeenth century, by the elder Dean Fell; all we know of
+its origin is that it was the work of "Smith, an artificer of
+London," surely the most modest architect who ever designed a
+masterpiece. The staircase itself is later, the work of the notorious
+Wyatt, who for once meddled with a great building without spoiling
+it.
+
+The history of Christ Church is very largely the history of the
+University of Oxford. It is still our wealthiest and largest
+foundation, although the disproportion between it and other colleges
+is by no means so great as it once was; and, thanks to its having
+been ruled by a series of famous and energetic deans, its periods of
+inglorious inactivity have been fewer than those of most other
+colleges. The roll of deans contains such names as those of John
+Owen, the most famous of Puritan preachers, John Fell, theologian and
+founder of the greatness of the Oxford Press, Henry Aldrich,
+universally accomplished as scholar, logician, musician, architect,
+Francis Atterbury, Jacobite and plotter, Cyril Jackson, who ruled
+Christ Church with a rod of iron, and who ranks first among the
+creators of nineteenth-century Oxford, Thomas Gaisford and Henry
+George Liddell, great Greek scholars. It seems that a college gains
+something by having its head appointed from outside; the Dean at
+Christ Church is appointed by the Crown.
+
+The importance of Christ Church is especially seen in its hall,
+through its collection of portraits. It is not only that this is
+superior to that of any one other college; it may well be doubted if
+the combined efforts of all the colleges could produce a collection
+equal to that of Christ Church in artistic merit, or superior to it
+in historical importance. The prime ministers of England, of whom
+Christ Church claims twelve (nine of them in the last century), are
+represented among others by George Grenville, the unfortunate author
+of the Stamp Act, George Canning, who called "the New World into
+existence to redress the balance of the Old," and W. E. Gladstone;
+among the eight Christ Church men who have been Governor-Generals of
+India, the Marquess Wellesley stands out pre-eminent; Christ Church
+has sent five archbishops to Canterbury and nine to York; there is a
+portrait in the hall of Wake, the most famous of the holders of the
+See of Canterbury. Lord Mansfield's picture worthily represents the
+learning and impartiality of the English Bench. But even more
+interesting than any of those already mentioned are the portraits of
+John Locke, who was philosopher enough to forgive Christ Church for
+obeying James II and expelling him, of William Penn, presented, as
+was fitting, by the American state that bears his name, of John
+Wesley and of Dr. Pusey, whose names will be for ever associated with
+the two greatest of Oxford's religious movements. And it may well be
+hoped that C. L. Dodgson ("Lewis Carroll") will delight children for
+many generations to come, as he has delighted those of the last half-
+century, by his Alice and her "Adventures."
+
+An interest, rather historical than personal, attaches to the group
+portrait that occupies a position of honour over the fireplace; it
+represents the three Oxford divines--John Fell (already mentioned),
+Dolben, who later was Archbishop of York, and Allestree, afterwards
+Provost of Eton, who braved the penal law against churchmen by
+reading the forbidden Church Service daily all through the time of
+the Commonwealth.
+
+Nowhere, so much as in Christ Church, is the poet's description of
+Oxford appropriate; her students may:
+
+    "Stand, in many an ancient hall,
+     Where England's greatest deck the wall,
+     Prelate and Statesman, prince and poet;
+     Who hath an ear, let him hear them call."
+
+
+ [Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall Interior]
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (3) "TOM" TOWER
+
+
+    "Those twins of learning, which he raised in you,
+     Ipswich and Oxford, one of which fell with him;
+     The other, though unfinished, yet so famous,
+     So excellent in art, and still so rising,
+     That Christendom shall ever speak his virtue."
+                       SHAKESPEARE, /Henry VIII/.
+
+Oxford is described by Matthew Amold as,
+
+    "Beautiful city, with her dreaming spires,"
+
+yet it is for her towers, especially, that she is famous. Glorious as
+St. Mary's is, it certainly does not surpass Magdalen Tower; and it
+may well be doubted whether the genius of Wren has not excelled both
+Magdalen and St. Mary's in "Tom" Tower. Gothic purists, of course, do
+not like it. There is a well-authenticated story of a really great
+architect who, in the early days of the twentieth century, was asked
+to submit a scheme for its repair; after long delay he sent in a plan
+for an entirely new tower on correct Gothic lines, because (as he
+wrote) no one would wish to preserve "so anomalous a structure" as
+Tom Tower. The world, however, does not agree with the minute
+critics; it is easy to find fault with the details of "Tom," but in
+proportion, in dignity, in suitability to his position, the greatest
+qualities that can be required in any building, "Tom" is pre-eminent.
+This is the more to be wondered at, as the tower was erected a
+century and a half after the great gateway which it crowns.
+
+The genius of Wolsey had planned a magnificent front, but only a
+little more than half of it was completed when Henry VIII ended the
+career of his greatest servant, and altered the plans of the most
+glorious college in Europe. It was not till the period just before
+the Civil War that the northern part of the front of Christ Church
+was built by the elder Dean Fell, and the work was only completed
+when his son, the famous Dr. Fell, doomed to eternal notoriety by the
+well-known rhymes about his mysterious unpopularity, employed Wren to
+build the gate tower. Yet the whole presents one harmonious design,
+worthy of the most famous of Oxford founders and of the greatest of
+British architects. It is fitting that it should be Wolsey's statue
+which adorns the gate--a statue given by stout old Jonathan Trelawny,
+one of the Seven Bishops, whose name is perpetuated by the refrain of
+Hawker's spirited ballad, which deceived even Macaulay as to its
+authenticity:
+
+
+    "And must Trelawny die?
+     Then thirty thousand Cornish men
+     Will know the reason why."
+
+ Tom Tower appeals to Oxford men through more than one of their
+senses; it is a most conspicuous object in every view; and in it is
+hung the famous bell, "Great Tom," the fourth largest bell in
+England, weighing over seven tons. This once belonged to Osney Abbey,
+when it was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and bore the
+legend:
+
+    "In Thomae laude resono Bim Bom sine fraude."
+
+It was transplanted to Christ Church in the reign of Queen Mary, and
+at the time it was proposed to rechristen it "Pulcra Maria," in
+honour at once of the Queen and of the Blessed Virgin; but the old
+name prevailed. Every night but one, from May 29, 1684, until the
+Great War silenced him, Tom has sounded out, after 9 p.m., his 101
+strokes, as a signal that all should be within their college walls;
+the number is the number of the members of the foundation of Christ
+Church in 1684, when the tower was finished. During the war Tom was
+forbidden to sound, along with all other Oxford bells and clocks, for
+might not his mighty voice have guided some zeppelin or German
+aeroplane to pour down destruction on Oxford? Few things brought home
+more to Oxford the meaning of the Armistice than hearing Tom once
+more on the night of November 11, 1918.
+
+ [Plate XX. Christ Church: "Tom" Tower]
+
+A patriotic tradition claims for Tom the honour of having inspired
+Milton's lines in "Il Penseroso":
+
+    "Hear the far-off curfew sound
+     Over some wide-watered, shore,
+     Swinging slow with sullen roar."
+
+But it is difficult to believe this; Milton's connection with Oxford
+does not get nearer than Forest Hill, and blow the west wind as hard
+as it would, it could scarcely make Tom's voice reach so far. And the
+"wide-watered shore" is only appropriate to Oxford in flood time, the
+very last season when a poet would wish to remember it.
+
+The view in Plate XX of the tower is taken from the front of
+Pembroke, and must have been often admired by Oxford's devoted son,
+Samuel Johnson, when, as a poor scholar of Pembroke, "he was
+generally to be seen (says his friend. Bishop Percy) lounging at the
+college gate, with a circle of young students round him, whom he was
+entertaining with his wit and keeping from their studies."
+
+
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+ [Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden Front]
+
+    "An English home--gray twilight poured
+       On dewy pastures, dewy trees,
+     Softer than sleep, all things in order stored,
+       The haunt of ancient Peace."
+                          TENNYSON, Palace of Art.
+
+St. John's shares with Trinity and Hertford the distinction of having
+been twice founded. As the Cistercian College of St. Bernard, it owed
+its origin to Archbishop Chichele, the founder of All Souls', and it
+continued to exist for a century as a monastic institution. At the
+Reformation it was swept away with other monastic foundations by the
+greed of Henry VIII, but it was almost immediately refounded, in the
+reign of Mary, by Sir Thomas White, one of the greatest of London's
+Lord Mayors. In all these respects it has an exact parallel in
+Trinity, which had existed as a Benedictine foundation, being then
+called "Durham College," and which was refounded, in the same dark
+period of English History, by another eminent Londoner, Sir Thomas
+Pope. It is characteristic of England and of the English Reformation
+that men, who were undoubtedly in sympathy with the old form of the
+Faith, yet gave their wealth and their labours to found institutions
+which were to serve English religion and English learning under the
+new order of things.
+
+For the first generation after the Founder, St. John's was torn by
+the quarrels between those who wished to undo the work of the
+Reformation altogether, and those who wished to carry it further and
+to destroy the continuity of English Church tradition. The final
+triumph of the Anglican "Via Media" was the work, above all others,
+of William Laud, who came up as scholar to St. John's in 1590, and
+who, for most of the half century that followed, was the predominant
+influence in the life of the University. First in his own college and
+then in Oxford generally, he secured the triumph of his views on
+religious doctrine and order. Of these, it is not the place to speak
+here, nor yet of Laud's services to Oxford as the restorer of
+discipline, the endower and encourager of learning, the organizer of
+academic life, whose statutes were to govern Oxford for more than two
+centuries; but it is indisputable that Laud takes one of the highest
+places on the roll of benefactors, both to the University as a whole
+and to his own college.
+
+It was fitting that one who did so much for St. John's should leave
+his mark on its buildings; the inner quadrangle was largely built by
+him, and it owes to him its most characteristic features, the two
+classic colonnades on its east and west sides, and the lovely garden
+front, one of the three most beautiful things in Oxford: the north-
+east corner of this is shown in Plate XXI.
+
+Laud's building work was done between 1631 and 1635, and in 1636
+Charles I and his Queen visited Oxford and were entertained in the
+newly-finished college. Much bad verse was written on this event, two
+lines of which as a specimen may be quoted from the quaintly-named
+poem, "Parnassus Biceps":
+
+    "Was I not blessed with Charles and Mary's name,
+     Names wherein dwells all music? 'Tis the same."
+
+The part of the entertainment to royalty on which the Archbishop
+specially prided himself was the play of The Hospital of Lovers,
+which was performed entirely by St. John's men, without "borrowing
+any one actor." Laud goes on to observe that, when the Queen borrowed
+the dresses and the scenery, and had it played over again by her
+players at Hampton Court, it was universally acknowledged that the
+professionals did not come up to the amateurs--a truly surprising and
+somewhat incredible verdict. St. John's, however, was always strong
+in dramatic ability; Shirley, the last great representative of the
+Elizabethan tradition, was a student there, and the library has the
+rare distinction of having possessed longest the same copy of the
+works of Shakespeare; it still has the second folio, presented in
+1638, by one of the fellows. St. John's connection with the lighter
+side of literature has lasted to our own day; the most famous of
+Oxford parodies is still the Oxford Spectator, which has not been
+surpassed by any of its many imitators in the last half century.
+
+Other colleges, however, might challenge the supremacy of St. John's
+in the humours of literature.. In the richness and beauty of its
+garden it stands unrivalled, whether quantity or quality be the basis
+of comparison. It is not only that before the east front, seen in
+Plate XXI, stretches the largest garden in Oxford; thanks to the
+skill and the care of the present garden-master, the Rev. H. J.
+Bidder, this shows from month to month, as the pageant of summer goes
+on, what wealth of colour and variety of bloom the English climate
+can produce. It may be said to be laid out on Bacon's rule: "There
+ought to be gardens for all months in the year, in which severally
+things of beauty may be then in season"; only for "year" we naturally
+must read "academic year." If Bacon is right, that a garden is the
+"purest of human pleasures," then, indeed, St. John's should be the
+Oxford paradise.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (1) THE BUILDINGS
+
+    "Here did Wren make himself a student home,
+       Or e'er he made a name that England loves;
+     I wonder if this straying shadow moves,
+       Adown the wall, as then he saw it roam."
+                                          A. UPSON.
+
+
+ [Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from the Garden]
+
+The buildings of Wadham College have been pronounced by some good
+judges to be the most beautiful in Oxford. This is not, however, the
+usual opinion, nor is it my own, though, perhaps, it might be
+accepted if modified into the statement that Wadham is the most
+complete and perfect example of the ordinary type of college. However
+that may be, there are three points as to these buildings which are
+indisputable, and which are also most interesting to any lover of
+English architecture. They are:
+    (1) Wadham is less altered than any other college in Oxford.
+    (2) It is the finest illustration of the fact that the Gothic
+        style survived in Oxford when it was being rapidly superseded
+        elsewhere.
+    (3) No building in Oxford (very few buildings anywhere) owe their
+        effect so completely to their simplicity and their absence of
+        adornment.
+
+These three points must be illustrated in detail.
+
+Wadham is the youngest college in Oxford, for all those that have
+been founded since are refoundations of older institutions (but, as
+its first stone was laid in 1610, it has a respectable antiquity);
+yet the Front Quad is completely unaltered in design, and of the
+actual stonework, hardly any has had to be renewed. Could the
+Foundress return to life, she would find the college, which was to
+her as a son, completely familiar.
+
+The second point is a more important one. In the reign of Elizabeth,
+classical architecture was being rapidly introduced; Gothic was
+giving way before the style of Palladio, even as the New Learning was
+banishing the schoolmen from the schools. This change is markedly
+seen in the Elizabethan buildings at Cambridge, especially in Dr.
+Caius' work, so far as it has been allowed to survive in the college
+that bears his name. But in Oxford the old style went on for half the
+following century; in the great building period of the first two
+Stuarts the old models were still faithfully copied. It was the
+genius of Wren, which, by its magnificent success in the Sheldonian,
+ultimately caused the new style to prevail over the late Gothic, of
+which his own college, Wadham, is so striking an example.
+
+In Wadham the conservative Oxford workmen were inspired by the
+presence of Somerset masons, whom the Foundress brought up from her
+own county, so rich in the splendid Gothic of the fifteenth century.
+Hence the chapel of Wadham (shown in Plate XXII) is to all intents
+and purposes the choir of a great Somerset church. So marked is the
+old style in its windows that some of the best authorities on
+architecture have maintained that the stonework of these could not
+have been made in the seventeenth century, but must have survived
+from some older building; Ferguson, the historian of architecture,
+when confronted with the fact that the college has still the detailed
+accounts showing how, week by week, the Jacobean masons worked, swept
+this evidence aside with the dictum--"No amount of documents could
+prove what was impossible." But here the "impossible" really
+happened.
+
+The permanence of Gothic in Oxford is a point for professional
+students; the studied simplicity, which is the great secret of
+Wadham's beauty, concerns everyone. The effect of the garden front is
+produced simply by the long lines of the string-courses and by the
+procession of the beautifully proportioned gables. Neither here nor
+in any part of the college is there a piece of carved work, except in
+the classical screen, which marks the entry to the hall. It may be
+noted that at Wadham and at Clare, Cambridge, the same effect is
+produced by the same means; different as the two colleges are, the
+one Gothic, the other classical, they have a restful and complete
+beauty which makes them specially attractive. And this is due more
+than anything else to the unbroken lines of the stonework, to which
+everything is kept in due subordination. Clare was building during
+half a century; Wadham was finished in three years; but both have
+been fortunate in being left alone; they have not been "improved" by
+later additions.
+
+The chapel at Wadham has another feature of great interest for those
+who visit it; the glass in it (not that in the ante-chapel) is all
+contemporary with the college, and is a first-rate example of the
+taste of early Stuart times. The apostles and the prophets of the
+side windows have few merits, except their age, and the fact that
+they illustrate what local craftsmen could do in the reign of James
+I; but the big east window is of a very different rank. The college
+authorities quarrelled with the local workmen, and introduced a
+foreign craftsman, Bernard van Ling from London. In our day he would
+have been called a "blackleg," and mobbed: perhaps, even in the
+seventeenth century, he needed protection, for the college built him
+a furnace in their garden, and he there produced the finest specimen
+of seventeenth century glass that Oxford can show. Even for those who
+are not students of glass, the Wadham windows are attractive with
+their two Jonahs and two whales, "The big one that swallowed Jonah,
+and the little one that Jonah swallowed" (to quote an old college
+jest).
+
+The gardens at Wadham are famous; they have not the magnificence of
+St. John's or the antiquarian charm of the old walls at New College
+or Merton; but, for the variety and fine growth of their trees, they
+are unsurpassed, though the glory of these is passing. Warden Wills
+planted them in the days of the French Revolution, and trees have
+their time to fall at last, even though they long survive their
+planters.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "But these were merciful men, whose righteousness
+     hath not been forgotten. . . . Their bodies are buried
+     in peace; but their name liveth for evermore."
+                            /Ecclesiasticus/, xliv. 10, 14.
+
+The collection of pictures In Wadham Hall is probably the best of any
+college in Oxford--always, of course, excepting Christ Church. It has
+no single picture to be compared with the "Thomas Warton" at
+Trinity, or the "Dr. Johnson" at Pembroke (both excellent works of
+Reynolds), nor does it give so many fine examples of the work of
+recent artists as do Trinity or Balliol; but it makes up for these
+deficiencies by the number and the variety of its pictures.
+
+Two only of the men they represent can be said to attain to the first
+rank among England's worthies--Robert Blake, second as an admiral
+only to Nelson and Oxford's greatest fighting man until the present
+war, and Christopher Wren, "that prodigious young scholar" (as John
+Evelyn calls him), who, as has been well said, would have been second
+only to Newton among English mathematicians had he not chosen rather
+to be indisputably the first of British architects. It is interesting
+to note that Wadham shares with All Souls' two of the greatest names
+in the Scientific Revival of the seventeenth century: both Wren and
+Thomas Sydenham, the physician, migrated from Wadham to fellowships
+at All Souls'.
+
+Their connection with Wadham is part of what is probably the most
+interesting single episode in the college history. When the
+Parliament triumphed, and the King's partisans were turned out of
+Oxford, the Lodgings at Wadham were given to the most distinguished
+of her Wardens, John Wilkins, who, no doubt, owed his promotion to
+the fact that he was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. In his
+own day everyone knew him; he was a moderate man, who interceded for
+Royalist scholars under the Commonwealth, and tempered the penal laws
+to Non-Conformists, when later he was Bishop of Chester. He was even
+better known to the "philosophers" as the inventor of a universal
+language and as curious for every advance in Natural Science. But, in
+our day, he is only remembered for his connection with the Royal
+Society; that most illustrious body grew out of the meetings held
+weekly at his Lodgings and the similar meetings held in London; when
+later these two movements were united, Wilkins was secretary of the
+committee which drew up the rules for their future organization, and
+thus prepared the way for the Royal Charter, given to the Society in
+1662. When the Royal Society celebrated its 250th anniversary in
+1912, many of its members made a pilgrimage to "its cradle" (or what
+was, at any rate, "/one/ of its cradles").
+
+Wadham also produced, among other early members of the Royal Society,
+its historian, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, who somehow, as
+"Pindaric Sprat" (he was the friend and also the editor of /Abraham
+Cowley/), found his way into Johnson's /Lives of the Poets/; he is,
+however, more likely to be remembered because his subserviency, when
+he was Dean of Westminster to James II, has earned him an unenviable
+place in Macaulay's gallery of Revolution worthies and unworthies.
+Sprat, it should be added, was an exception to the prevailing Whig
+tradition of Wadham, which found a worthy exponent in Arthur Onslow,
+the greatest Speaker of the House of Commons, who ruled over that
+august body for a record period, thirty-four years (1727-1761), and
+formed its rules and traditions in the period when it was first
+asserting its claim to govern.
+
+ [Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall Interior]
+
+Two centuries later than the Royal Society days at Wadham, another
+group of philosophers was trained there, who thought that the views
+of their master, Auguste Comte, were going to make as great a
+revolution in human thought as the views of a Bacon or a Newton. All
+the leading English Positivists were at Wadham--Congreve, Beesley,
+Bridges, Frederic Harrison, of whom the last alone survives, to fight
+with undiminished vigour for the causes which he championed in Mid-
+Victorian days. Positivism had less influence than its adherents
+expected, but it powerfully affected for a time the political and the
+religious thought of England.
+
+Forty years later another famous group of young men were at Wadham
+together. As they are all alive, it is impossible, and would be
+unbecoming, to estimate what their influence on English life and
+thought will be; but it was a curious coincidence that sent to Wadham
+together, in the 'nineties, Lord Birkenhead, who reached the Woolsack
+at the earliest age on record; Sir John Simon, who, if he had wished,
+could have lowered that record still further, and C. B. Fry, once a
+household name as the greatest of British athletes.
+
+Three groups of Wadham men have been spoken of; one other name must
+be mentioned of one who stood alone at college, and for a long time
+in the world outside, in his attitude to the social problems of our
+day. Whatever may be the future of the Settlement movement, its
+leader, Samuel Barnett, "Barnett of Whitechapel," is not to be
+forgotten, for his name is associated as a pioneer and an inspiring
+force with every movement of educational and social advance in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century. M. Clemenceau, no friendly
+judge of the ministers of any religious body, pronounced him one of
+the three greatest men he had met in England. Certainly he was great,
+if greatness means to anticipate the problems of the future before
+the rest of the world sees their urgency, and to make real
+contributions to their solution.
+
+It has been a feature of the history of Oxford that every college
+has, from time to time, come to the front as the special home and
+source of some movement. There has never been the overshadowing
+concentration of men and of wealth, which has given a more one-sided
+direction to the history of Cambridge. Hence the strength of the
+college system; every college has its traditions to live up to, its
+great names to cherish, and Wadham is, certainly, by no means last or
+least in these respects.
+
+
+
+
+HERTFORD COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Outspake the (Warden) roundly:
+      'The bridge must straight go down;
+     For if they once should get the bridge ...'"
+                     MACAULAY, /Horatius/, adapted.
+
+Academic bridges, over the Cam or elsewhere, are a great feature at
+Cambridge. At Oxford they were unknown till this century, when
+University first of all threw its modest little arch over Logic Lane;
+later, in 1913. the "Bridge of Sighs," which forms the subject of
+Plate XXIV, was completed. There was a hard struggle before leave
+could be obtained from the City Council for thus bridging a public
+thoroughfare; University only maintained their claim to a bridge by a
+long lawsuit, in which the college rights were firmly established by
+the production of charters, which went back to the reign of King
+John. The great opposition to the Hertford Bridge was said to be due
+to regard for the feelings of the old Warden of New College, who
+considered that it would injure the view of his college bell-tower.
+Whether this story be true or not, Hertford obtained its permission
+at last, and Sir Thomas Jackson added a new attraction to Oxford's
+buildings. His genius has been especially shown in triumphing over
+the difficulties of the Hertford site, for it was no easy thing to
+unite into a harmonious whole, buildings so various; his new chapel--
+opened in 1908--is worthy to rank with the best classic architecture
+in Oxford.
+
+The variety of the Hertford buildings only reflects the chequered
+history of the foundations that have occupied them. As early as the
+thirteenth century Hart Hall stood on this site. In the eighteenth
+century this old hall was turned into a college by an Oxford
+reformer, Dr. Newton. But unfortunately Newton's endowments were not
+equal to his ambition, and the first Hertford /College/ fell into
+such decay that finally its buildings were transferred to an entirely
+different foundation, Magdalen Hall. Almost immediately afterwards,
+old Magdalen Hall, which stood close to Magdalen College, was burned
+down, and the society sold their site, thus made empty, to their
+wealthy namesake, and migrated, in 1822, to what had formerly been
+Hertford College. Finally, in 1874, Magdalen Hall was re-endowed by
+the head of the great financial house of Baring as "Hertford College"
+once more.
+
+This college then unites the traditions of two old halls, and of its
+own predecessor, and from all of them it derives some famous names.
+Hart Hall was the home of John Selden, one of the greatest of English
+scholars; Hertford College had an undistinguished English prime
+minister in Henry Pelham, and a most distinguished leader of
+opposition in Charles James Foxe; while Magdalen Hall was even more
+rich in traditions, as being the home of the translator of the Bible,
+William Tyndale, as the centre of Puritan strength in the Laudian
+days, when from its ranks were filled the vacancies all over Oxford
+caused by the expulsions of Royalists, and finally as having trained
+Lord Clarendon, famous as Charles II's minister, still more famous as
+the historian, whose monumental work was one of the first endowments
+of the Oxford Press.
+
+All these traditions are now concentrated in the one college, and, as
+has been said, the buildings have been greatly extended to meet the
+needs of the new foundation. When Hertford College is completed
+according to the plans already drawn by Sir Thomas Jackson, it will
+reach from All Souls' to Holywell. This last northern part of its
+front has been delayed by the European War.
+
+The new--or, rather, the revived--college has, as yet, hardly had
+time to make Oxford history, but the influence of its second
+Principal. Dr. Boyd, whose long reign, happily not yet over, began in
+1877, has had the result of finding for Oxford new benefactors in one
+of the wealthiest of the London City Companies; the Drapers'
+magnificent gifts of the new Science Library and of the Electrical
+Laboratory are good instances to show that the days of the "pious
+founder" are not yet over.
+
+ [Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The Bridge]
+
+
+
+
+ST. EDMUND HALL
+
+
+    "Or wander down an ancient street
+     Where mingling ages quaintly meet,
+     Tower and battlement, dome and gable
+     Mellowed by time to a picture sweet."
+                                    A. G. BUTLER.
+
+The group of buildings, shown in Plate XXV, is not only picturesque--
+it also illustrates Oxford history from more than one point of view.
+
+The apse of the Chapel of Queen's on the left belongs to a building
+already spoken of, which is the most perfect example of a small
+basilican church in Oxford. The church tower in the centre, though
+itself dating from the fourteenth century, is the most modern part of
+one of the oldest churches in Oxford, St. Peter in the East. The
+crypt and the chancel of this church go back to the time of the
+Conquest, and are probably the work of Robert d'Oili, to whom William
+the Conqueror gave the city of Oxford; he was first an oppressor and
+then a benefactor; in the former character, he built the castle keep,
+still standing near the station; in the latter, he was the builder,
+besides St. Peter, of the churches of St. Michael and of the Holy
+Cross; parts of his work survive in all three.
+
+The churchyard, at all events, of St. Peter in the East, deserves a
+visit, lying as it does between the beautiful garden of New College
+and the picturesque buildings of St. Edmund Hall.
+
+Before this last foundation is spoken of, a word must be said as to
+the road round which these three buildings are grouped--Queen's Lane.
+It survives, almost unaltered, from Pre-Reformation Oxford, and,
+winding as it does its narrow way between high walls, it is an
+interesting specimen of the "lanes" which threaded mediaeval Oxford,
+a city in which the High Street and, to a smaller extent, Cornmarket
+Street were the only real thoroughfares; the rest of the city was a
+network of narrow ways.
+
+But from the historic point of view, the most interesting part of the
+picture is its right side, where stand the buildings of St. Edmund
+Hall. This is the only survival of the system of residence in the
+earliest University, of the Oxford which knew not the college system.
+
+Before the days of "pious founders," the students had to provide
+their own places of residence, and very early the custom grew up of
+their living together in "halls," sometimes managed by a non-academic
+owner, but often under the superintendence of some resident Master of
+Arts, who was responsible, not for the teaching, but, at any rate in
+part, for the discipline of the inmates of his hall. These halls had
+at first no endowments and no permanent existence; they depended for
+their continuity on the person of their head. Gradually they became
+more organized; but when once the college system had been introduced,
+it tended, by its superior wealth and efficiency, to render the
+"halls" less and less important. They lost even the one element of
+self-government which they had once had, the right of their members
+to elect their own Principal; this right was usurped by the
+Chancellor. Hence, though five of the halls were surviving at the
+time of the University Commission (of 1850), all of them but St.
+Edmund Hall have now disappeared.
+
+In theory, "hall" and "college" have much in common; one Cambridge
+college indeed has retained the name of "hall," and two of the
+women's colleges in Oxford have preferred to keep the old style. In
+practice, their difference lies in the two facts that colleges are
+wealthier, with more endowments, and that they are self-governing,
+with Fellows who co-opt to vacancies in their own body and elect
+their head. St. Edmund Hall has its head appointed by the fellows of
+Queen's, with which institution it has long been connected.
+
+ [Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and St. Edmund Hall]
+
+The origin of this hall is an unsolved problem: it derives its name
+according to one theory from Edmund Rich, the last Archbishop of
+Canterbury to be canonized, and probably the first recorded Doctor of
+Divinity at Oxford. But this theory is very doubtful, and Hearne,
+most famous of Oxford antiquarians, and probably the best known
+member of St. Edmund Hall, did not believe it. In any case, most of
+the buildings of the hall date long after St. Edmund, and belong to
+the middle of the seventeenth century. Hearne himself is sufficient
+to give interest to any foundation. He was a great scholar and a
+careful editor of the early English Chroniclers in days when learning
+was decaying in Oxford; even now his work as an editor is not
+altogether superseded. But it is not to this that he owes his fame;
+it is rather to the fact that he has high rank among the diarists of
+England, and the first place among those of Oxford. For thirty years
+(1705-1735) in which latter year he died, he poured into his diary
+everything that interested him--scholarly notes, political rumours,
+personal scandal, remarks on manners and customs. The 150 volumes
+came into the possession of his fellow Jacobite, Richard Rawlinson,
+the greatest of the benefactors of the Bodleian, and only now are
+they being fully edited; ten volumes have been issued by the Oxford
+Historical Society, and still there are a few more years of his life
+to cover. As a specimen of Hearne's style may be quoted his remarks,
+when the sermon on Christmas Day, 1732, was postponed till 11 a.m.
+
+"The true reason is that people might lie in bed the longer. . . .
+The same reason hath made them, in almost all places in the
+University, alter the times of prayer, and the hour of dinner (which
+used to be 11 o'clock) in almost every place (Christ Church must be
+excepted); which ancient discipline and learning and piety strangely
+decay." Hearne was critical rather of past history than of present-
+day rumour; he records complacently (in 1706) that at Whitchurch,
+when the dissenters had prepared a great quantity of bricks "to erect
+a capacious conventicle, a destroying angel came by night and spoyled
+them all, and confounded their Babel." Hearne would by no means have
+approved of the Methodist principles of six members of his hall in
+the next generation, who were expelled for their religious views
+(1768). A furious controversy, with many pamphlets, raged over them,
+and the Public Orator of the University wrote a bulky indictment of
+them, which was answered by another pamphlet with the picturesque
+title of "Goliath Slain." Pamphleteers were more free in their
+language in those days than they are now.
+
+The hall has always been a strong religious centre, and plays a very
+useful part in the University--by giving to poor men, seeking Holy
+Orders, a real Oxford education, based on the true Oxford principle
+of community of life.
+
+
+
+IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+    "Thames, the best loved of all old Ocean's sons,
+     Of his old sire, to his embraces runs . . .
+     Though deep, yet clear, through gentle yet not dull,
+     Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
+                                         SIR J. DENHAM.
+
+ [Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill]
+
+The subject of Plate XXVI is no longer in existence; it was burned
+to the ground some years ago, and has never been rebuilt--for steam
+has rendered unprofitable the old-fashioned water mills such as it
+was. Yet the very fact that Iffley Mill is no more perhaps renders it
+the more appropriate subject for a series of Oxford pictures. It
+claims a place among them, not for its beauty, picturesque though it
+was, but as a symbol of the open-air pursuits of Oxford, which play
+so large a part in the lives of her sons. And as those pursuits are
+so diverse, and cannot all be directly pictured, it is fitting that
+they should be represented by a picture which is a symbol of them
+all, by a picture of something no longer existing, not introduced for
+itself, but suggesting whole fields of varied activity, different and
+yet all akin.
+
+This may be fanciful, but the part played by open-air sports in the
+life of Oxford is a great reality. Yet, in their present organized
+form, they are a feature of quite, modern times. Fifty years ago,
+football as a college sport in Oxford was only beginning; the men are
+still living, and not octogenarians, who introduced their "school
+games"--"Rugby," "Eton Wall game," etc.--at Oxford. Golf was left to
+Scotchmen, hockey to small boys, La Crosse had not yet come from
+beyond the Atlantic. Cricket and rowing were the only organized
+games, and even in these the inter-University contests are
+comparative novelties; the first boat race against Cambridge was
+rowed in 1829, and it has only been an annual fixture since 1856.
+
+Several results followed from this. In the first place, the very
+sense of the word "sportsman" was different. Now it means a man who
+can play well some, one at least, of the games that all men play;
+then, it had its old meaning of a man who could shoot, or ride, or
+fish, or do all these.
+
+Again, as cricket is always a game for the few, and as the rowing
+authorities, by the time the summer term begins, had selected their
+chosen followers and left the rest of the world free, there was far
+more walking, and consequently more knowledge of the country round
+the city, than is the rule now. The long rambles which play so
+prominent a part in Oxford biographies, such as Stanley's /Life of
+Arnold/, were still the fashion, while of those who could afford to
+ride, certainly many more availed themselves of the privilege than do
+now.
+
+So far as games themselves were concerned, their cost was far less.
+College matches away from Oxford were almost unknown; college
+grounds, which were still quite a new thing in the middle of last
+century, were nearly all concentrated on Cowley Marsh, and the
+somewhat heavy contribution from all undergraduates, now generally
+collected by the college authorities in "battels" and become semi-
+official, was not dreamed of. Those who played paid, and the rest of
+the college got off easily. And games were much more games than they
+are now, and less of institutions; the "professional amateur," who
+comes up with a public school reputation to get his "blue," was
+almost unknown, and certainly, so far as rowing was concerned, any
+powerful man with broad shoulders and a sound heart was a likely
+candidate for the University Boat. The days were not dreamed of when
+the fortunes of Oxford and Cambridge on the river depended largely on
+the choice of a University by members of the Eton Eight.
+
+But there is of course another side to the development of Oxford
+athletics. Perhaps the most important point is that play is the
+greatest social leveller. It is easy to attend the same lectures as a
+man, and even to sit at the same table with him in hall, and not to
+know him well, because his clothes and his accent are not quite
+correct. But in these days when so many games are played, and when
+competition is so keen, any man who can do anything gets his chance;
+and many are the instances every year of men who would never have
+made friends in their colleges outside a small circle, had not their
+quickness as half-backs, or their ability as slow bowlers, brought
+their contemporaries to recognize their merits. You cannot play with
+a man without knowing him, and young Oxford is democratic at heart,
+and when once it knows a man, it does not trouble about the non-
+essentials of wealth and fashion.
+
+And again, though it may seem a paradox to say it, the amount of play
+in Oxford has increased the amount of work. Organized games mean
+physical fitness, and physical fitness means ability to get
+intellectual work done. Perhaps it may be argued that the absorption
+in athletics deadens all intellectual life, and that many Oxford men
+read only and discuss only the sporting news in the papers; this no
+doubt has a strange fascination, even for men who do not play; one of
+the most distinguished of Oxford statesmen of the last generation,
+himself so blind that he could not hit a ball, confessed to me that
+he always, in the summer, read the cricket news in /The Times/ before
+he read anything else. But he and many other Oxford men read
+something else, too. And it may be maintained without question that
+the hard exercise, which is the fashion in Oxford, tends to keep
+men's bodies healthy and to raise the moral tone of the place. Oxford
+and Cambridge may not be what they should be in morals, but they
+compare very favourably in this respect with other towns.
+
+All this seems a far cry from Iffley Mill; but Iffley means to an
+Oxford man, not so much the picturesque village, nor even its gem of
+a Norman Church that towers above the lock, but the place where
+Eights and Torpids start for the races. And the boating, which is so
+associated with the name of Iffley, is still--and long may it be so--
+the queen of Oxford sports. To succeed as an oar, a man has to learn
+to sacrifice the present to the future, to scorn delights and live
+laborious days, to work together with others, and to sink his
+individuality in the common cause. These are great qualities, and
+therefore in any book on Oxford, the picture, which recalls them and
+is their symbol, has a right to a place.
+
+
+                      Printed in Great Britain.
+             Letterpress by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh.
+    Plates engraved and printed by Henry Stone & Son, Ltd., Banbury.
+
+
+ [OXFORD FROM THE EAST (End papers)]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13245 ***
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
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+Title: The Charm of Oxford
+
+Author: J. Wells
+
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+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHARM OF OXFORD ***
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+This eBook was produced by Philip H Hitchcock
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+</pre>
+
+<h1>THE CHARM OF OXFORD</h1>
+<h5>by</h5>
+<h2>J. WELLS, M.A.</h2>
+<h5>Warden of Wadham College, Oxford</h5>
+<h5>Illustrated by</h5>
+<h2>W. G. BLACKALL</h2>
+<h5>Second Edition (Revised)</h5>
+<h3>SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON<br>
+KENT &amp; CO., LTD., 4 STATIONERS'<br>
+HALL COURT : : LONDON, E.C.4</h3>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"'Home of lost causes'&mdash;this is Oxford's blame;
+    'Mother of movements'&mdash;this, too, boasteth she;
+  In the same walls, the same yet not the same,
+    She welcomes those who lead the age-to-be."
+</pre>
+<h5><i>Copyright<br>
+First published 1920<br>
+Second edition 1921</i></h5>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Much have ye suffered from time's gnawing tooth,
+ Yet, O ye spires of Oxford domes and towers,
+ Gardens and groves, your presence overpowers
+ The soberness of reason."
+                            WORDSWORTH.
+</pre>
+<a name="p1"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p1.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"473" height="372" border="3" alt=
+"Plate I. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Garden"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate I. Christ Church : The Cathedral from
+the Garden</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3>PREFACE</h3>
+<p>There are many books on Oxford; the justification for this new
+one is Mr. Blackall's drawings. They will serve by their grace and
+charm pleasantly to recall to those who know Oxford the scenes they
+love; they will incite those who do not know Oxford to remedy that
+defect in their lives.</p>
+<p>My own letterpress is only written to accompany the drawings. It
+is intended to remind Oxford men of the things they know or ought
+to know; it is intended still more to help those who have not
+visited Oxford to understand the drawings and to appreciate some of
+the historical associations of the scenes represented.</p>
+<p>I have written quite freely, as this seemed the best way to
+create the "impression" wished. I have to acknowledge some
+obligations to Messrs. Seccombe &amp; Scott's <i>Praise of
+Oxford,</i> a book the pages of which an Oxford man can always turn
+over with pleasure, and to Mr. J. B. Firth's <i>Minstrelsy of
+Isis;</i> it is not his fault that the poetic merit of so much of
+his collection is poor. Oxford has not on the whole been fortunate
+in her poets. My own quotations are more often chosen for their
+local colour than for their poetic merit.</p>
+<p>I have unavoidably had to borrow a good deal from my own
+<i>Oxford and its Colleges,</i> but the aim of the two books is
+very different.</p>
+<h4>WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD,<br>
+ <i>April 1920.</i></h4>
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<p><a href="#Introduction">INTRODUCTION</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#RadcliffeSquare">RADCLIFFE SQUARE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BroadStreet">THE BROAD STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BalliolC">BALLIOL COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MertonC">MERTON COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MertonL">MERTON LIBRARY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#OrielC">ORIEL COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#QueensC">QUEEN'S COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#NewC1">NEW COLLEGE: (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#NewC2">NEW COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#LincolnC">LINCOLN COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MagdalenC1">MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (1) SITE AND
+BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MagdalenC2">MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BrasenoseC">BRASENOSE COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#CorpusC">CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC1">CHRIST CHURCH: (1) THE CATHEDRAL</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC2">CHRIST CHURCH: (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC3">CHRIST CHURCH: (3) "TOM" TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#StJohnsC">ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#WadhamC1">WADHAM COLLEGE: (1) THE BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#WadhamC2">WADHAM COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#HertfordC">HERTFORD COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#StEdmundH">ST. EDMUND HALL</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#IffleyM">IFFLEY MILL</a><br>
+<br>
+</p>
+<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<p><br>
+<a href="#p1">I. CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE
+GARDEN</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p2">II. ST. MARY'S SPIRE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p3">III. VIEW IN RADCLIFFE SQUARE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p4">IV. SHELDONIAN THEATRE, ETC., BROAD STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p5">V. BALLIOL COLLEGE, BROAD STREET FRONT</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p6">VI. MERTON COLLEGE, THE TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p7">VII. MERTON COLLEGE, THE LIBRARY INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p8">VIII. ORIEL COLLEGE AND ST. MARY'S CHURCH</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p9">IX. HIGH STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p10">X. NEW COLLEGE, THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p11">XI. NEW COLLEGE, THE TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p12">XII. LINCOLN COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p13">XIII. MAGDALEN TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p14">XIV. MAGDALEN COLLEGE, THE OPEN AIR PULPIT</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p15">XV. BRASENOSE COLLEGE, QUADRANGLE AND THE RADCLIFFE
+LIBRARY</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p16">XVI. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, THE FIRST
+QUADRANGLE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p17">XVII. CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE
+MEADOW</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p18">XVIII. CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL STAIRCASE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p19">XIX. CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p20">XX. CHRIST CHURCH, "TOM" TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p21">XXI. ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE GARDEN FRONT</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p22">XXII. WADHAM COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL FROM THE
+GARDEN</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p23">XXIII. WADHAM COLLEGE, THE HALL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p24">XXIV. HERTFORD COLLEGE, THE BRIDGE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p25">XXV. ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH AND ST. EDMUND
+HALL</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p26">XXVI. IFFLEY, THE OLD MILL</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#pend">OXFORD FROM THE EAST</a></p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="Introduction" id="Introduction">INTRODUCTION</a></h3>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p>In what does the charm of Oxford consist? Why does she stand out
+among the cities of the world as one of those most deserving a
+visit? It can hardly be said to be for the beauty of her natural
+surroundings. In spite of the charm of her</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Rivers twain of gentle foot that pass
+            Through the rich meadow-land of long green grass,"
+</pre>
+<p>in spite of her trees and gardens, which attract a visitor,
+especially one from the more barren north, Oxford must yield the
+palm of natural beauty to many English towns, not to mention those
+more remote.</p>
+<p>But she has every other claim, and first, perhaps, may be
+mentioned that of historic interest.</p>
+<p>An Englishman who knows anything of history is not likely to
+forget of how many striking events in the development of his
+country Oxford has been the scene. The element of romance is
+furnished early in her story by the daring escape of the
+Empress-Queen, Matilda, from Oxford Castle. The Provisions of
+Oxford (1258) were the work of one of the most famous Parliaments
+of the thirteenth century, the century which saw the building of
+the English constitution, and the students of the University fought
+for the cause which those Provisions represented. The burning of
+the martyr bishops in the sixteenth century is one of the greatest
+tragedies in the story of our Church. The seventeenth century saw
+Oxford the capital of Royalist England in the Civil War, and though
+there was no actual fighting there, Charles' night march in 1644
+from Oxford to the West, between the two enclosing armies of Essex
+and Waller, is one of the most famous military movements ever
+carried out in our comparatively peaceful island. The Parliamentary
+history, too, of Oxford in the seventeenth century is full of
+interest, for it was there that in 1625 Charles' first Parliament
+met in the Divinity School. And fifty years later, his son, Charles
+II, triumphed over the Whig Parliament at Oxford, which was trying
+by factious violence to force the Exclusion Bill on a reluctant
+king and nation. Few towns beside London have been the scene of so
+many great historical events; yet any one who looks below the
+surface will attach less importance to these than to the great
+changes in thought which have found in Oxford their inspiration,
+and which make it a city of pilgrimage for those interested in the
+development of England's real life. Matthew Arnold's famous
+description, hackneyed though it is by quotation, gives one aspect
+of Oxford, an aspect which will appeal to many beside the scholar
+poet:</p>
+<p>"Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the
+fierce intellectual life of our century, so serene!</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           'There are our young barbarians, all at play.'
+</pre>
+<p>And yet, steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens
+to the moonlight, and whispering' from her towers the last
+enchantments of the Middle Ages, who will deny that Oxford, by her
+ineffable charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of
+all of us, to the ideal, to perfection&mdash;to beauty, in a word,
+which is only truth seen from another side?"</p>
+<p>But this is not the real intellectual charm of Oxford, which has
+been ever the centre of strenuous life, rather than of dilettante
+dreamings. From the very beginning, she has been a city of
+"Movements." Some visitors, then, will come to Oxford as the home
+and the burial-place of Roger Bacon, representing as he does the
+Franciscan Order, with its Christ-like sympathy for the poor and
+its early attempts to develop the knowledge of Natural Science;
+Oxford was in the thirteenth century the great centre of the
+Friars' movement in England. Others will remember that in the next
+century it produced, in John Wycliffe, the great opponent of the
+Friars, the man who, as the first of the Reformers, is to many the
+most interesting figure in mediaeval English religious history. In
+the sixteenth century, Oxford plays no great part in the actual
+revolution in the English Church; yet it will be a place attractive
+to many who cherish the memory of the "Oxford Reformers," the
+members of Erasmus' circle&mdash;John Colet, Thomas More, William
+Grocyn, and other scholars&mdash;who hoped by sound learning to
+amend the Church without violent change. Some, on the other hand,
+will see in the sixteenth-century Oxford, the school which trained
+men for the Counter-Reformation, such as the heroic Jesuit,
+Campion, or Cardinal Alien, the founder of the English College at
+Douai. The Anglican "Via Media" found its special representatives
+in Oxford in Jewel and Hooker, and in Laud, the practical genius
+who carried out its principles in the Church administration of his
+day. It was fitting that the movement for the revival of Church
+teaching in England in the nineteenth century should be an Oxford
+movement, and Newman's pulpit at St. Mary's and the chapel of Oriel
+College are sacred in the eyes of Anglicans all over the world. In
+the interval between Laud and Newman, Church principles had found a
+different development in another Oxford man; John Wesley's
+character and spiritual life were built up in Oxford, till he went
+forth to do the work of an Evangelist during more than half of the
+eighteenth century. Wycliffe, More, Hooker, Laud, Wesley, Newman,
+these are not the names of men who have affected the religious
+history of the world as did Luther, Calvin or Ignatius Loyola; but
+they have affected profoundly the religious life of the
+English-speaking race, and Oxford must ever be a sacred place for
+their sakes.</p>
+<p>And Oxford has been the starting-point of other than religious
+movements. No place in England has such a claim on the Englishmen
+of the New World as has Oxford. It was there that Richard Hakluyt
+taught geography, and collected in part his wonderful store of the
+tales of enterprise beyond the sea. Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his
+half-brother, Sir Walter Raleigh, both Oxford men, were the
+founders of English colonization. By their failures they showed the
+way to success later, and Calvert in Maryland, Penn in
+Pennsylvania, John Locke in the Carolinas, and Oglethorpe in
+Georgia are all Oxford men who rank as founders of States in the
+great Union of the West. And in our own day, Cecil Rhodes has once
+more proved that the academic dreamer can go out and advance the
+development of a great continent. By his magnificent foundation of
+scholarships at Oxford, he showed that he considered his old
+university a formative influence of the greatest importance in
+world history. Oxford with reason puts up one tablet to mark his
+lodgings in the city, and another to commemorate him in her stately
+Examination Schools.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p2"></a><a name="Plate II"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p2.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="487" border="3" alt="Plate II. St. Mary's Spire"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate II. St. Mary's Spire</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>But there are many to whom the past, whether in the realm of
+action or in the realm of ideas, does not appeal, whether it be
+from lack of knowledge or from lack of sympathy. To some of these
+Oxford makes a different appeal as perhaps the best place in
+England for studying the development of English architecture. The
+early Norman work of the Castle and St. Michael's, the Transition
+work of the cathedral, the very early lancet windows of St. Giles'
+Church (consecrated by the great St. Hugh of Lincoln himself), the
+Decorated Style as seen in St. Mary's spire and in Merton chapel,
+the glories of the specially English style, the Perpendicular, in
+Wykeham's work at New College and in Magdalen Tower, the Tudor
+magnificence of Wolsey's work at Christ Church, the last flower of
+Gothic at Wadham and at St. John's, the triumph of Wren's genius,
+alike in the classical style at the Sheldonian and in "Gothic" as
+in Tom Tower, the Classical work of Hawkesmore at Queen's and of
+Gibbs in the Radcliffe, the wonderful beauty of Mr. Bodley's modern
+Gothic in St. Swithun's Quad at Magdalen, and the skilful
+adaptation of old English tradition to modern needs by Sir Thomas
+Jackson at Trinity and at Hertford&mdash;what other city can show
+such a series of architectural beauties? And it must not be
+forgotten that Oxford disputes with York the honour of having the
+most representative sequence of painted glass windows in England.
+Oxford, indeed, is a paradise for the student of Art. Nowhere,
+except at Cambridge, can the series of architectural works be
+paralleled, and at both universities the charm of their ancient
+buildings is enhanced by their beautiful setting in college
+gardens.</p>
+<p>It is not an accident that in the old universities more than
+anywhere else, so much of beauty has survived, nor is it to be put
+down as a happy piece of academic conservatism. It is rather the
+natural result of their constitution and endowment. What has been
+so fatal to the beauty of old England elsewhere has been material
+prosperity. The buildings inherited from the past had to go, at
+least so it was thought, because they were not suited to modern
+methods, or because the site they occupied was worth so much more
+for other purposes. But the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge could
+not carry on their work on different sites; "residence" was an
+essential of academic arrangements; and there was no temptation to
+the fellows of a college to make money by parting with their old
+buildings, for their incomes were determined by Statute, and any
+great increase of wealth would not advantage individual fellows.
+Hence, while great nobles and great merchants sold their splendid
+houses and grounds, and grew rich on the unearned increment, and
+while non-residential universities moved bodily from their old
+positions to new and more fashionable quarters, Oxford and
+Cambridge colleges went on working and living in the same places.
+Much the same reasons have preserved, in many old towns,
+picturesque alms-houses, to show the modern world how beautiful
+buildings once could be, while all around them reigns opulent
+ugliness. Certain it is that only in one instance, in recent times,
+has an Oxford college contemplated selling its old site and
+buildings and migrating to North Oxford, and then the sacrilegious
+attempt was outvoted. Hence, as has been said, the two old English
+Universities possess in an unique degree the</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Strange enchantments of the past
+            And memories of the days of old."
+</pre>
+<p>The charms of Oxford for the historical student and for the
+lover of Art have been spoken of. But a large part of the world
+comes under neither head; to it the charm of Oxford consists in the
+young lives that are continually passing through it. Oxford and
+Cambridge present ever attractive contrasts between their young
+students and their old buildings, between the first enthusiasm of
+ever new generations, and customs and rules which date back to
+mediaeval times.</p>
+<p>But apart from the charm of contrast, Oxford has everything to
+make life attractive for young men. It is true that the old
+buildings combine with a dignity a millionaire could not surpass a
+standard of material comfort which in some respects is below that
+of an up-to-date workhouse. An amusing instance has occurred of
+this during the war. The students of one of the women's colleges,
+expelled from their own modern buildings, which had been turned
+into a hospital, became tenants of half of one of the oldest
+colleges. It was very romantic thus to gain admission to the real
+Oxford, but the students soon found that it was very uncomfortable
+to have their baths in an out-of-the-way corner of the college. And
+baths themselves are but a modern institution at Oxford; at one or
+two colleges still the old "tub in one's room" is the only system
+of washing. Perhaps this instance may be thought frivolous, but it
+is typical of Oxford, which has been described, with some
+exaggeration in both words, as a home of "barbaric luxury."</p>
+<p>But after all, comfort in the material sense is the least
+important element in completeness of life. Oxford has everything
+else, except, it is true, a bracing climate. She has society of
+every kind, in which a man ranks on his merits, not on his
+possessions; he is valued for what he is, not for what he has; she
+gives freedom to her sons to live their own life, with just
+sufficient restraint to add piquancy to freedom, and to restrain
+those excesses which are fatal to it; she has intellectual
+interests and traditions, which often really affect men who seem
+indifferent to them; life in her, as a rule, is not troubled by
+financial cares&mdash;for her young men, most of them, either
+through old endowments or from family circumstances, have for the
+moment enough of this world's goods. In view of all this, and much
+more, is it not natural that Oxford has a charm for her sons? And
+this is enhanced with many by all the force of hereditary
+tradition; the young man is at his college because his father was
+there before him; the pleasure of each generation is increased by
+the reflection of the other's pleasure. What traditional feeling in
+Oxford means may, perhaps, be illustrated by the story of an old
+English worthy, though one only of the second rank. Jonathan
+Trelawney, one of the Seven Bishops who defied James II, was a
+stout Whig, but when it was proposed to punish Oxford for her
+devotion to the Pretender, the Government found they could not
+reckon on his vote, though he was usually a safe party man. "I must
+be excused from giving my vote for altering the methods of election
+into Christ Church, where I had my bread for twenty years. I would
+rather see my son a link boy than a student of Christ Church in
+such a manner as tears up by the roots that constitution."</p>
+<p>But the days of hereditary tradition are over, and Trelawney
+belongs to an age long past; Oxford now is exposed to an influence
+compared to which the arbitrary proceedings of a king are feeble. A
+democratic Parliament with a growing Labour party has far more
+power to change Oxford than the Stuarts ever had, and even at this
+moment (1919) a third Royal Commission is beginning to sit. Will it
+modify, will it&mdash;transform Oxford?</p>
+<p>The first answer seems to be that the very stones of Oxford are
+charged with her traditions. During the War the colleges have been
+full of officer-cadets; they were men of all ranks of life and of
+every kind of education; they came from all parts of the world;
+they were of all ages, from eighteen to forty, at least. Their
+training was a strenuous one by strict rule, a complete contrast to
+the free and easy life of academic Oxford. Yet in their few months
+of residence, most of them became imbued with the college spirit;
+they considered themselves members of the place they lived in; they
+tried to do most of the things undergraduates do. If Oxford thus,
+to some extent, moulded to her pattern men who, welcome as they
+were, were only accidental, surely the college spirit may be
+trusted to assimilate whatever material the changed conditions of
+social or of political life furnish to it. The hope of many at
+Oxford is that there will be a great development and a great
+change. On one side it will be good if Oxford becomes to a much
+greater extent not only an all-British, but also a world
+university; on another side it is to be hoped that far more than
+ever before men of all classes in England will come to Oxford. It
+would surprise many of the University's critics to find how much
+had already been done in these directions. It is certainly not true
+now that, as one of Oxford's critics wrote,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Too long, too long men saw thee sit apart
+            From all the living pulses of the hour."
+</pre>
+<p>On the contrary, the Oxford of the last generation has already
+become markedly more cosmopolitan, and she has been drawing to her
+an ever-increasing number of able men of every class.</p>
+<p>But these developments, thus begun, will certainly be carried
+much further in the near future. Oxford will be altered. Some of
+her customs will be changed. This may well issue in great and
+lasting good, though there will be loss as well as gain. But an
+Oxford man may be pardoned if he believes and hopes that his
+university will remain the university he has loved. There is a
+saying current in Oxford about Oxford men, which may not be out of
+place here&mdash;"If you meet a stranger, and if after a time you
+say to him, 'I think you were at Oxford,' he accepts it, as a
+matter of course, and is pleased. If you do the same to a Cambridge
+man, he indignantly replies, 'How do you know that?'" No doubt the
+saying is turned the other way round at Cambridge, and no doubt it
+is equally true and equally false of both universities, i.e. it is
+positively true and negatively false, like so many other
+statements. But it is positively true; the Oxford man is proud of
+having been at Oxford; the past and the present alike, his
+political and his religious beliefs, his traditions and his social
+surroundings, all endear Oxford to him. May it ever be so.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="RadcliffeSquare" id="RadcliffeSquare">RADCLIFFE
+SQUARE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Like to a queen in pride of place, she wears
+The splendour of a crown in Radcliffe's dome."
+                                    L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p3"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p3.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"363" height="481" border="3" alt=
+"Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square</b></h4>
+<br>
+
+<p>The visitor to Oxford often asks&mdash;"Where is the
+University?" The proper answer is: "The University is everywhere,"
+for the colleges are all parts of it. But if a distinction must be
+made, and some buildings must be shown which are especially
+"University Buildings," then it is undoubtedly in the Square, of
+which this picture shows one side, that they must be found.
+Immediately on the right is the Bodleian Library, the domed
+building in the centre is the Radcliffe Library, and in the
+background rises the spire of St. Mary's. Of this last building the
+tower and spire go back nearly to the beginnings of Oxford; they
+date from the time of Edward I; but for a century, at least, before
+they were erected, the students of Oxford had met for worship and
+for business in the earlier church, which stood on the site of the
+present St. Mary's.</p>
+<p>The Bodleian Library occupies the old Examination Schools, which
+were built, in the reign of James I, for the reformed University of
+Archbishop Laud; within the memory of men who do not count
+themselves old, the university examinations were still held in this
+building. Finally, the shapely dome between the Bodleian and St.
+Mary's is the work of James Gibbs, the greatest English architect
+of the eighteenth century, to whom Cambridge owes its Senate House)
+and London the noble church of St. Martin's in the Fields. The dome
+was built for a separate library, the foundation of Dr. John
+Radcliffe, Queen Anne's physician, the most munificent of Oxford
+benefactors; it is still managed by his trustees, a body
+independent of the University, but since 1861 they have lent it to
+the Bodleian Library for a reading-room. It is fitting that the
+oldest public library in the modern world, a title the Bodleian can
+proudly claim, should have the finest reading-room, where 400
+students can have each his separate desk, and where, if so minded
+and so physically enduring, they can put in twelve hours' work in a
+day. No other great library in Europe allows such privileges.</p>
+<p>Round these three University buildings are grouped three
+colleges: Hertford, the youngest of Oxford foundations, the
+re-creation of an old hall by a Victorian financial magnate. Sir
+Thomas Baring; All Souls', standing a little beyond, of which the
+part here shown is the corner of the great Law Library, founded by
+Sir William Codrington in the days of good Queen Anne; while on the
+other side of the Radcliffe is Brasenose College (for pictures of
+which see Plates II and XV). No non-academic building fronts on the
+Square; the one or two houses facing on the south-west corner are
+occupied by college tutors. The academic influence has spread even
+under the earth, for between the Bodleian and the Radcliffe there
+is a great subterranean chamber of two stories, excavated
+1909-1910, which, when full, will contain 1,000,000 books.</p>
+<p>It is refreshing to turn from the thought of so much dead
+industry, as these multitudes of unread books will represent, to
+the inspiration of the buildings. They are the very epitome of
+Oxford. The classic symmetry of Gibbs' dome looks across at the
+soaring spire of the mediaeval University Church, while the
+Bodleian is one of the best examples of the Jacobean Gothic, which
+still held its own in Oxford when the classical style was
+triumphing elsewhere. Such contrasts are typical of Oxford. The
+University had a European reputation in the days when it was one of
+the two great centres of mediaeval scholasticism. Roger Bacon, the
+most famous name in mediaeval science, no doubt saw the tower of
+St. Mary's beginning to rise. The University welcomed the Classical
+Revival, it survived the storms of the Reformation, it was the
+great centre of the building up of Anglican theology under the
+Laudian rule, it was one of the inspirations of English science in
+the seventeenth century, though Dr. Radcliffe's generous
+benefactions are a little later, and have hardly begun to yield
+their full fruit till our own day. Such are the learned traditions
+of the Radcliffe Square, while it has also been the centre of the
+young lives which, for seven centuries at least, have enjoyed their
+happiest years in Oxford.</p>
+<p>The view from the Radcliffe roof is undoubtedly the best in
+Oxford. It has been thus described by the worst of the many poets
+who have celebrated the University:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Spire, tower and steeple, roofs of radiant tile,
+            The costly temple and collegiate pile,
+            In sumptuous mass of mingled form and hue,
+            Await the wonder of thy sateless view."</pre>
+<p>But Robert Montgomery is more likely to be remembered for
+Macaulay's merciless but well-deserved chastisement than for his
+praises of Oxford. Even their utter bathos cannot degrade a group
+of buildings so wonderful.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BroadStreet" id="BroadStreet">THE BROAD
+STREET</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Ye mossy piles of old munificence,
+ At once the pride of learning and defence."
+               J. WARTON,<i>Triumph of Isis.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The east side of the University buildings proper was shown in
+the last picture <a href="#p3">(Plate III)</a>; in the following <a
+href="#p4">(Plate IV)</a>, the north side of the same block is
+seen. The old University "schools" lay just inside the city wall,
+and Broad Street, which is there represented, occupies the site of
+the ditch, which ran on the north of the wall. This picture is a
+fitting supplement to the last, for the Sheldonian Theatre on the
+right of it and the Clarendon Building in the background may claim
+rank even with the Bodleian and the Radcliffe as the University's
+special buildings.</p>
+<p>The Sheldonian celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth
+anniversary only last year (1919), when the music which had been
+performed at its opening was performed once more. It is a building
+interesting from many points of view. Architecturally it marks the
+first complete flowering of the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He
+was only thirty-seven when it was completed, and had been
+previously known rather as a man of science than as an architect;
+he was Oxford's Professor of Astronomy; but Archbishop Sheldon
+chose him to build a worthy meeting place for his University, even
+as at the same time he was being called by the king to prepare
+plans for rebuilding London after the Great Fire.</p>
+<p>The very existence of the Sheldonian marks the development of
+University ideas. The simple piety&mdash;or was it the
+worldliness?&mdash;of Pre-Reformation Oxford had seen nothing
+unsuitable in the ceremonies of graduate Oxford and the ribaldries
+of undergraduate Oxford taking place in the consecrated building of
+St. Mary's; but the more sober genius of Anglicanism was shocked at
+these secular intrusions, and Sheldon provided his University with
+a worthy home, where its great functions have been performed ever
+since.</p>
+<p>The building is a triumph of construction; it is doubtful if so
+large an unsupported roof can be found elsewhere; but Wren is not
+to be held responsible for the outside ugly flat roof, which was
+put on 100 years ago, because it was said, quite falsely, that
+Wren's roof was unsafe. That architect had set himself the problem
+of getting the greatest number of people into the space at his
+disposal, and he managed to fit in a building that will hold 1,500.
+It was also intended for the Printing Press of the University, but
+was only used in that way for a short time, as in 1713 Sir John
+Vanbrugh put up the Clarendon Building, to house this department of
+University activity. The "heaviness" of Vanbrugh's buildings was a
+jest even in his own time; someone wrote as an epitaph for him</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Lie heavy on him. Earth, for he
+            Laid many a heavy load on thee."
+</pre>
+<p>Blenheim Palace, his greatest work, is indeed a "heavy load."
+But the same criticism can hardly be brought against the columned
+portico, which forms a fine ending for the Broad Street. Vanbrugh's
+building was superseded in its turn, when the increasing business
+of the Oxford Printing Press was moved to the present building in
+1830.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p4"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p4.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"483" height="363" border="3" alt=
+"Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad Street"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad
+Street</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Since then, all kinds of University business have been carried
+on in the old Printing Press. The University Registrar and the
+University Treasurer (his style is "Secretary of the University
+Chest") have their offices there; the Proctors exercise discipline
+from there; the various University delegacies and committees meet
+there. And another side of Oxford life, not yet (in January 1920)
+fully recognized as belonging to the University, has found a home
+there; the top floor has been for twenty years past the centre of
+women's education in Oxford, a position elevated indeed, for it is
+up more than fifty stairs, but commodious and dignified when
+reached at last.</p>
+<p>Perhaps the Clarendon Building has gained in lightness of effect
+by being contrasted with the clumsy mass of the Indian Institute,
+which forms the background of our picture. The nineteenth century
+proudly criticized the taste of the eighteenth; but it may well be
+doubted if any building in Oxford of the earlier and much-abused
+century is more inartistic and inappropriate than "Jumbo's Joss
+House," which used to rouse the scorn and anger of the late
+Professor of History, Edward A. Freeman.</p>
+<p>No Oxford colleges are in this picture, though a small part of
+Exeter, one of Sir Gilbert Scott's least happy erections in Oxford,
+appears on the right, and a little piece of Trinity on the left;
+the last-named is the college of Professor Sir Arthur
+Quiller-Couch, better known as "Q," one of the most delightful of
+Oxford's minor poets. The opening lines of his poem, "Alma
+Mater,"</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Know ye her secret none can utter,
+            Hers of the book, the tripled crown?
+            Still on the spire the pigeons flutter,
+            Still by the gateway flits the gown,
+            Still in the street from corbel and gutter
+            Faces of stone look down,"
+</pre>
+<p>may well have been inspired by this very scene in the Broad, for
+the grim faces of stone that surround the Sheldonian are one of the
+features and the puzzles of Oxford. Are they the Roman Emperors, or
+the Greek Philosophers, or neither? It does not matter, for they
+are unlike anything in heaven or in earth, and yet they are loved
+by all true Oxford men for their uncompromising ugliness, which has
+been familiar to so many generations.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BalliolC" id="BalliolC">BALLIOL COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"For the house of Balliol is builded ever
+ By all the labours of all her sons,
+ And the great deed wrought and the grand endeavour
+ Will be hers as long as the Isis runs."
+                                    F. S. BOAS
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The story is told of the old Greek admirals, after their victory
+at Salamis over the Persian king, that, when invited to name the
+two most deserving commanders, they each put their own name first,
+and then one and all put the Athenian Themistocles second. If a
+vote, on these principles, were taken in Oxford as to which was the
+best college, there is little doubt that Balliol would secure most
+of the second votes.</p>
+<p>It is one of the three oldest colleges, and actually has been in
+occupation of its present site longer than any other of our Oxford
+foundations&mdash;for more than six centuries and a half. Yet its
+greatness is but a thing of yesterday compared to the antiquity of
+Oxford, and it is fitting that a college which has come to the
+front in the nineteenth century should be mainly housed in
+nineteenth century buildings.</p>
+<p>Balliol has indeed ceased to be the "most satisfactory pile and
+range of old lowered and gabled edifices," which Nathaniel
+Hawthorne saw in the "fifties" of the last century. The painful
+imitation of a French chateau, the work of Sir Alfred Waterhouse,
+which forms the main part of our picture, was put up about 1868
+(mainly by the munificence of Miss Hannah Brackenbury), and only
+the old hall and the library, which lie behind, remain of
+Pre-Reformation Balliol.</p>
+<p>In the background of our picture <a href="#p5">(Plate V)</a> can
+be seen the Fisher Building, known to all Balliol men for the still
+existing inscription, "Verbum non amplius Fisher," which tradition
+says was put up at the dying request of the eighteenth-century
+benefactor.</p>
+<p>While it is true that the pre-eminence of Balliol is a growth of
+the nineteenth century, yet the college can count among its
+worthies one of the greatest names in English mediaeval history,
+that of John Wycliffe. He was probably a scholar of Balliol, and
+certainly Master for some years about 1360. But he left the college
+for a country living, and his time at Balliol is not associated
+with either of his most important works&mdash;his translation of
+the Bible or his order of "Poor Preachers." While at Balliol, he
+was rather "the last of the Schoolmen" than "the first of the
+Reformers."</p>
+<p>The modern greatness of Balliol is due to the fact that the
+college awoke more rapidly from the sleep of the eighteenth century
+than most of Oxford, and as early as 1828 threw open its
+scholarships to free competition. Hence even as early as the time
+of Dr. Arnold at Rugby, a "Balliol scholarship" had become "the
+blue riband of public-school education." It has now passed into
+popular phraseology to such an extent that lady novelists, unversed
+in academic niceties, confer a "Balliol scholarship" on their
+heroes, even when entering Cambridge.</p>
+<p>Balliol has known how to take full advantage of its opportunity.
+Governed by a series of eminent masters, especially Dr. Scott of
+Greek dictionary fame, and Professor Jowett, the translator of
+Plato and the hero of more Oxford stories than any other man, it
+has been ready to adapt itself to every new movement. While the
+governing bodies of other colleges in the middle of the last
+century were too often looking only to raising their own
+fellowships to the highest possible point, the Balliol dons were
+denying their own pockets to enrich and strengthen their
+college.</p>
+<p>Hence, undoubtedly, Balliol for a long time past has had a
+lion's share of Oxford's great men; two Archbishops of Canterbury,
+Tait and Temple, the present Archbishop of York, Cardinal Manning,
+a Prime Minister in Mr. Asquith, a Speaker in Lord. Peel, two
+Viceroys of India in Lord Lansdowne and Lord Curzon, poets like
+Clough, Matthew Arnold and Swinburne, these are only some of the
+more outstanding names. It is this which makes Balliol Hall so
+particularly interesting to the ordinary man; knowledge of
+present-day affairs, not of history, is all that is needed to
+appreciate its array of portraits.</p>
+<p>Nor has Balliol been unmindful of the social movements of our
+time. It is the chosen home of the Workers' Educational Association
+in Oxford, and in Arnold Toynbee it produced one of the pioneers
+and martyrs of modern social progress. Truly Balliol has much more
+to show to the visitor than its ultra-modern front on the Broad
+would promise.</p>
+<p>The street, on which Balliol looks out, is associated with the
+most famous scene of Oxford history; the stone with a cross in the
+middle of the road marks the traditional site of the burning of the
+bishops, Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, although their memorial has
+been erected 200 yards further north in St. Giles', and though
+antiquarians argue (probably correctly) that the actual pyre was a
+little further south, in fact, behind the present row of Broad
+Street houses.</p>
+<p>But it is the living activity of the college, not the sad
+memories of the street in front, that gives the interest to the
+picture. The intellectual life of the Balliol men has been well
+described by Professor J. C. Shairp, whose verses on "Balliol
+Scholars" are likely to be remembered by Oxford in long days to
+come for their associations, if not for their poetic merits. He
+describes what a privilege it is "to have passed," with men who
+became famous afterwards,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+                "The threshold of young life,
+            Where the man meets, not yet absorbs, the boy,
+            And ere descending to the dusky strife,
+            Gazed from clear heights of intellectual joy
+            That an undying image left enshrined."
+</pre>
+<p>This will come home to many, as they think on their happy Oxford
+days when they had life all before them, even though their
+contemporaries have not become archbishops like Temple or poets
+like Matthew Arnold.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p5"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p5.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"484" height="366" border="3" alt=
+"Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street Front"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street
+Front</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MertonC" id="MertonC">MERTON COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"I passed beside the reverend walls
+ In which of old I wore the gown."
+                        TENNYSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p6"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p6.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"363" height="473" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Merton is not only the oldest college in Oxford, it is also, as
+is claimed on the monument of the founder, Walter de Merton, in his
+Cathedral of Rochester, the model of "omnium quotquot extant
+collegiorum." Peterhouse, the first college at Cambridge, which was
+founded (1281) seven years later than Merton, had its statutes
+avowedly copied from those of its Oxford predecessor.</p>
+<p>So important a new departure in education calls for special
+notice. It is interesting to see how the English college system
+grew out of the long rivalry between the Regular and the Secular
+clergy which was so prominent in the mediaeval church. The Secular
+clergy, who had in their ranks all the "professional men" of the
+day, civil servants, architects, physicians, as well as, those
+devoted to religious matters in the strict sense, were always
+jealous of the monks and the friars, who, living by a "rule" in
+their communities, were much less in sympathy with English national
+feelings than the Seculars, who lived among the laity. Hence the
+growing influence of the Regular Orders, especially of the
+Franciscans and the Dominicans, in thirteenth-century Oxford,
+excited the alarm of a far-seeing prelate like Walter de Merton.
+There was a real danger that the most prominent and best of the
+students might be drawn into the great new communities, which were
+rapidly adding to their learning and their piety the further
+attractions of great buildings and splendid ceremonial.</p>
+<p>The founder of Merton had the same purpose as the founder of the
+College of the Sorbonne at Paris, a slightly earlier institution
+(1257). He intended that his college should rival the houses of the
+Dominicans and the Franciscans. These friaries were in the southern
+part of Oxford, and have completely perished, leaving behind only
+the names of two or three mean streets; but the college system
+which Walter de Merton founded has grown with the growth of Oxford
+and of England, and is to-day as vigorous and as useful as
+ever.</p>
+<p>Walter de Merton provided his fellows with noble buildings, at
+once for their common life and for their own private accommodation,
+and also with endowments sufficient to enable them to live in
+comfort, free from anxiety; most important of all, he gave them
+powers of self-government, so that they might recruit their own
+numbers and carry out for themselves the objects prescribed by him
+in his Statutes.</p>
+<p>In this great foundation then the three characteristic features
+of a college are found&mdash;a common life, powers of
+self-government, with the right of choosing future members, and
+endowments that enable religion and learning to flourish, free from
+more pressing cares. It is these features which distinguish the
+colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and which have determined their
+history.</p>
+<p>Walter de Merton definitely prescribed that none of the fellows
+who benefited by his foundation should be monks or friars; to take
+the vows involved forfeiture of a fellowship. He also especially
+urged on the members of his society that, when any of them rose to
+"ampler fortune" <i>(uberior fortuna)</i> , they should not forget
+their <i>alma mater</i> .</p>
+<p>The founder died in 1277, so that none of the college buildings
+were complete in his time, except perhaps the treasury, which, with
+its high-pitched roof of stone, lies in the opposite corner of the
+Mob Quad to that shown in our picture. Why the Quad is called "The
+Mob Quad," nobody knows. As was fitting, the chapel was the first
+part of the college to be finished&mdash;about 1300&mdash;and it is
+a splendid specimen of early Geometrical Gothic; it retains a
+little of the old glass, given by one of the early fellows.</p>
+<p>The north side of the Mob Quad, which is shown in our picture,
+is very little later than the Chapel, and the whole of the Quad was
+finished before 1400; the rooms in it have been the homes of Oxford
+men for more than five centuries. It is sad to think that so unique
+a building was almost destroyed in the middle of the nineteenth
+century, by the zeal of "reformers"; it was actually condemned to
+be pulled down, to make way for modern buildings, but, fortunately,
+there was an irregularity in the voting. Mr. G. C. Brodrick, then a
+young fellow, later the Warden of the college, insisted on the
+matter being discussed again at a later meeting, and at this the
+Mob Quad was saved by a narrow majority. "He will go to Heaven for
+it," as Corporal Trim said of the English Guards, who saved his
+broken regiment at Steinkirk.</p>
+<p>The "reformers" of Merton had to be content with cutting down
+their beautiful "Grove" and spoiling the finest view in Oxford by
+erecting the ugliest building which Mid-Victorian taste inflicted
+on the University.</p>
+<p>In the old buildings which so narrowly escaped destruction may
+have lived John Wycliffe, who is claimed as a fellow of Merton in
+an almost contemporary list; his activity in Oxford belongs rather
+to the later time, when he was Master of Balliol. His is one of the
+outstanding names in English history; the success of Merton in
+producing great men of a more ordinary kind can be judged from the
+fact that between 1294 and 1366 six out of the seven Archbishops of
+Canterbury were Merton men.</p>
+<p>In the great period of the seventeenth century, Merton had the
+distinction of being one of the few colleges which were
+Parliamentarian in sympathy. Hence the Warden was deposed by King
+Charles, who installed in his place a really great man, William
+Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood. But the
+king did more harm than good to the college; it was turned into
+lodgings for Queen Henrietta Maria and her court, and ladies were
+intruded and children born within college walls. These proceedings
+were respectable, though unusual; but the college was even more
+humiliated by the visit of Charles II, who installed there, among
+other court ladies, the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The
+college, however, with the Revolution, returned to less courtly
+views, and its Whig connection found an honourable representative
+in Richard Steele, the founder of the <i>Tatler</i> . It is not
+surprising that so cheerful a gentleman left Oxford without a
+degree, but "with the love of the whole society." The college
+register specially notes his gift of his <i>Tatler</i> ; he was
+acting on the sound rule, by no means so universally followed as it
+ought to be, that Oxford authors should present their books to
+their college library.</p>
+<p>Merton, as has been said, is the "type" college, if one may thus
+apply a scientific term; hence it is fitting that to it belong the
+two men to whom perhaps Oxford owes most. Thomas Bodley was a
+fellow and lecturer in Greek there, before he left Oxford for
+diplomacy, and accumulated that wealth which he used to endow the
+oldest and the most fascinating, if not the largest, of British
+libraries. And among the men who have gained from "the rare books
+in the public library" a way to a "perfect elysium," none better
+deserves remembrance than the Mertonian, Antony Wood, whose
+monument stands in Merton Chapel, but who has raised <i>monumentum
+aere perennius</i> to himself, in his <i>History of the University
+of Oxford</i> and his <i>Athenae Oxonienses</i> .</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MertonL" id="MertonL">MERTON LIBRARY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Hail, tree of knowledge! thy leaves fruit; which well
+ Dost in the midst of Paradise arise,
+ Oxford, the Muses' paradise,
+ From which may never sword the blest expel.
+ Hail, bank of all past ages! where they lie
+ To enrich, with interest, posterity."
+                                                  COWLEY.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p7"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p7.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"340" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VII. Merton College : The Library Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VII. Merton College : The Library
+Interior</b></h4>
+<p>"The appearance of the library" (at Merton), says the great
+Cambridge scholar, J. Willis Clark, in his <i>Care of Books</i> ,
+"is so venerable, so unlike any similar room with which I am
+acquainted, that it must always command admiration."</p>
+<p>He classes it with the libraries at Oxford of Corpus, St.
+John's, Jesus, and Magdalen, and he regretfully adds that no
+college library in his own University has retained the same old
+features as these have done. But none of the four can compare with
+Merton, either in antiquarian interest or in picturesqueness; it
+stands in a class by itself.</p>
+<p>The Library was built by the munificence of Bishop Reed of
+Chichester between 1377 and 1379; the dormer windows, however (seen
+in <a href="#p7">Plate VII</a>), are later in date. The bookcases
+in the larger room were made in 1623; one of the original half
+cases, however, was spared, that nearest to the entrance on the
+north side, and this is the most interesting single feature in the
+whole library. It need hardly be said that the reading-desk in
+early times was actually attached to the bookcase; the library then
+was a place to read in, not one from which books were taken to be
+read. The books were to be kept "in some common and secure place,"
+and they were "chained in the library chamber for the common use of
+the fellows" (J. W. Clark).</p>
+<p>The old case that has been retained still has its chained books,
+and traces of the arrangement for chains can be seen in the other
+cases. Merton was one of the last libraries in Oxford to keep its
+books in chains; these were only removed in 1792; in the Bodleian
+the work had been begun a generation earlier (in 1757).</p>
+<p>Not all books, however, were chained; by special arrangements in
+old college statutes, some of them were allowed out to the fellows.
+The register of Merton contains interesting entries as to how the
+books were distributed, e.g. on August 26, 1500, "choice was made
+of the books on philosophy; it was found there were in all 349
+books, which were then distributed." This was a large number: at
+King's, Cambridge, less than half a century before, there were only
+174 books on all subjects, and in the Cambridge University Library
+in 1473, only 330.</p>
+<p>If a book was borrowed, great precautions were taken; the Warden
+of Merton in 1498 had to obtain the leave of the college to take
+out a book which he wanted; then, "in the presence of the four
+seniors," he received his book, depositing two volumes of St.
+Jerome's Commentaries as pledges for its safe return. A similar
+ceremony, with a similar entry in the register, marked the
+replacement of the book in the library. Though printing was already
+beginning to multiply books, yet then, and for long after, a book
+was a most valuable possession. The features of these venerable
+tomes are well described by Crabbe:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "That weight of wood, with leathern coat o'erlaid,
+            Those ample clasps, of solid metal made,
+            The close pressed leaves, unclosed for many an age,
+            The dull red edging of the well-filled page,
+            On the broad back the stubborn ridges rolled,
+            Where yet the title shines in tarnished gold,
+            These all a sage and laboured work proclaim,
+            A painful candidate for lasting fame."
+</pre>
+<p>Such books are numbered by hundreds in every college library,
+and it is only too true of them that:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Hence in these times, untouched the pages lie
+            And slumber out their immortality."
+</pre>
+<p>The reception of such a book in a library was an event, and the
+record of one gift occupies six whole lines in the Merton Register;
+its donors are named as "two venerable men," and the entry sweetly
+concludes, "Let us, therefore, pray for them."</p>
+<p>The library, problem, acute everywhere, is perhaps especially so
+in a college library. How can it keep pace with the multiplicity of
+studies? How should it deal with books indispensable for a short
+time, perhaps for one generation, and then superseded? Even apart
+from the question of the cost of purchase, the amount of space
+available is small, considering modern needs. These problems and
+such as these have not yet been solved by college librarians; but
+the college library, quite apart from the books in it, is an
+education in itself. The old days of neglect are past, the days
+reflected in the scandalous story&mdash;told of more than one
+college&mdash;about the old fellow who was missing for two months,
+and, after being searched for high and low, was found hanging dead
+in the college library. Now the libraries everywhere are being used
+continually, and men can realize in them, perhaps better than
+anywhere else, how great the past of Oxford has been, and can form
+some idea of the labours of forgotten generations, which have made
+the University what it was and what it is.</p>
+<p>Every library has its treasures, to show the present generation
+how beautiful an old book can be which was produced in days when
+its production was not a mere publisher's speculation, but the work
+of a scholar seeking to promote knowledge and advance the cause of
+Truth. And it does not require much imagination for a student, in a
+building like Merton Library, to conjure up the picture of his
+mediaeval predecessor, sitting on his hard wooden bench, with his
+chained MSS. volume on the shelf above, and poring over the crabbed
+pages in the unwarmed, half-lighted chamber. If the picture brings
+with it the thought of the transitoriness of human endeavour, and
+if the words of the Teacher seem doubly true, "Of making of books
+there is no end, and much study is a weariness of the flesh," yet
+in the fresh life of young Oxford, such reflections are only
+salutary; pessimism, despair of humanity, are not vices likely to
+flourish among undergraduates in the healthy society of modern
+colleges.</p>
+<p>Those only, it might be said, can properly reform the present
+who understand the past, and it is perhaps the spirit of the Merton
+Library, at once old and new, which has inspired the statesmen whom
+Merton has sent to take part in the government of Britain during
+the last half-century. Lord Randolph Churchill, the founder of Tory
+democracy, his present-day successor in the same role, Lord
+Birkenhead, and the ever young Lord Halsbury are men of the type
+which Walter de Merton wished to train, "for the service of God in
+Church and State," men who champion the existing order, but who are
+willing to develop and improve it on the old lines.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="OrielC" id="OrielC">ORIEL COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "Here at each coign of every antique street
+ A memory hath taken root in stone,
+ Here Raleigh shone."
+                                  L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p8"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p8.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's Church"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's
+Church</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>It is a curious coincidence that three of the most troubled
+reigns of English history have been marked by double college
+foundations in Oxford. That of Henry VI, in spite of constant civil
+war, threatening or actual, saw the beginnings of All Souls' and of
+Magdalen; the short and sad reign of Mary Tudor restored to Oxford
+Trinity and St. John's; and in an earlier century the ministers of
+Edward II, the most unroyal of our Plantagenet kings, gave to
+Oxford Exeter and Oriel. The king himself was graciously pleased to
+accept the honour of the latter foundation, and his statue adorns
+the College Quad, along with that of Charles I, in whose day the
+whole College was rebuilt. The front may be compared
+architecturally with those of Wadham and of University, which date
+from about the same period (the first part of the seventeenth
+century), when, under the fostering care of Archbishop Laud, Oxford
+increased greatly in numbers, in learning, and in buildings. Though
+Oriel has neither the bold sweep of University nor the perfect
+proportions of Wadham, it yet is a pleasing building, at least in
+its front.</p>
+<p>Like New College, Oriel is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and,
+also like New College, the name of "St. Mary's" early gave way to a
+popular nickname. The College at once on its foundation received
+the gift of a tenement called "L'Oriole," which occupied its
+present site, and its name has displaced the real style of the
+College in general use.</p>
+<p>It is only fitting that, as in our picture, St. Mary's Church
+should be combined with Oriel, for the founder was Vicar of St.
+Mary's, and the presentation to that living has ever since been in
+the hands of the College. It was as a Fellow of Oriel that Newman
+became, in 1828, Vicar of St. Mary's, from the pulpit of which,
+during thirteen years, he moulded all that was best in the
+religious life of Oxford. The glorious spire of the church was
+still new when the College was founded.</p>
+<p>Oriel and its chapel are among the places for religious
+pilgrimage in Oxford. As Lincoln draws from all parts of the world
+those who reverence the name of John Wesley, so the Oxford Movement
+and the Anglican Revival had their starting-point, and for some
+time their centre, in Oriel. The connection of the College with the
+Movement was not in either case a mere accident; the Oxford
+Revival, at any rate, was profoundly influenced by the personality
+of Newman, and Newman, both by attraction and by repulsion, was
+largely what Oriel made him. Among those who were with him at the
+College were Archbishop Whately, whose Liberalism repelled him,
+Hawkins, the Provost, whose views on "Tradition" began to modify
+the Evangelicalism in which he had been brought up, Keble, whose
+<i>Christian Year</i> did more for Church teaching in England than
+countless sermons, Pusey, already famous for his learning and his
+piety, who was to give his name to the Movement, and, slightly
+later, Church, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, the historian of the
+Movement, and Samuel Wilberforce, who, as Bishop of Oxford, was to
+show how profoundly it would increase the influence of the English
+Church.</p>
+<p>Such a combination of famous names at one time is hardly found
+in the history of any other college, and it would be easy to add
+others hardly less known, who were also members of the same body at
+that famous time. Hero-worshippers can still see the rooms where
+these great men lived, and the Common Room in which they met and
+argued, in the days when Oxford did less teaching and had more time
+for talking and for thinking than the busy, hurrying ways of the
+twentieth century allow. But Oriel has many other associations
+besides those of the Oxford Movement. Walter Raleigh, the most
+fascinating of Elizabethans, was a student there, and probably in
+Oxford met the great historian of travel and discovery, Richard
+Hakluyt (a Christ Church man), whose influence did so much to bring
+home to Oxford the wonders of the strange worlds beyond the seas.
+It was probably also through his connection with Oriel that Raleigh
+made the acquaintance of Harriot, who shared in his colonial
+ventures in Virginia, and who became the historian of that
+foundation, so full of importance as the beginning of the new
+England across the Atlantic. It was only fitting that the Raleigh
+of the nineteenth century, Cecil John Rhodes, should also be an
+Oriel man, who was never weary of acknowledging what he owed to
+Oxford, and who showed his faith in her by his works. The Rhodes'
+Foundation expends his millions in bringing scholars to Oxford from
+the whole world; already its influence has been great during its
+twenty years of existence; what it will be in the future, only the
+future can show. If Mr. Rhodes gave his millions to the University,
+he gave his tens of thousands to his old College. The result on the
+High Street is&mdash;to put it gently&mdash;not altogether happy;
+but perhaps time may soften the lines of Mr. Champney's somewhat
+uninspired front, though it is not likely to quicken interest in
+the statues of the obscure provosts which adorn it.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="QueensC" id="QueensC">QUEEN'S COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"The building, parent of my young essays,
+ Asks in return a tributary praise;
+ Pillars sublime bear up the learned weight,
+ And antique sages tread the pompous height."
+                                   TICKELL.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<p>Queens's is one of the six oldest colleges in Oxford, and is far
+on to celebrating its sexcentenary, but it has purged itself of the
+Gothic leaven in its buildings more completely than any other
+Oxford foundation. It does not even occupy its own old site, for
+the building originally lay well back from the High Street. It was
+only the "civilities and kindnesses" of Provost Lancaster which
+induced the Mayor and Corporation of Oxford, in 1709, to grant to
+Queen's College "for 1,000 years," "so much ground on the High
+Street as shall be requisite for making their intended new building
+straight and uniform." And so the most important of "the streamlike
+windings of the glorious street" was in part determined by a
+corrupt bargain between "a vile Whig" (as Hearne calls this hated
+Provost) and a complaisant mayor. But much of the credit for the
+beauty of this part of the High must also be given to the architect
+of University College (seen in <a href="#p9">Plate IX</a> on the
+left), who, whether by skill or by accident, combined at a most
+graceful angle the two quads, erected with an interval of some
+eighty years between them (1634 and 1719).</p>
+<p>A man must, indeed, be a Gothic purist who would wish away the
+stately front quadrangle of Queen's, designed by Wren's favourite
+pupil, Hawkmoor, while the master himself is said to be responsible
+for the chapel of the College, the most perfect basilican church in
+Oxford.</p>
+<p>If Queen's has been revolutionary in its buildings, it has been
+singularly tenacious of old customs. Its members still assemble at
+dinner to the sound of the trumpet (blown by a curious arrangement
+<i>after</i> grace has been said); it still keeps up the ancient
+and honoured custom of bringing in the boar's head&mdash;"the chief
+service of this land"&mdash;for dinner on Christmas Day; while on
+New Year's Day, the Bursar still, as has been done for nearly 600
+years, bids his guests "take this and be thrifty," as he hands each
+a "needle and thread," wherewith to mend their academic hoods; the
+<i>aiguille et fil</i> is probably a pun on the name of the
+founder, Robert Eglesfield. The College at these festivities uses
+the loving, cup, given it by its founder, perhaps the oldest piece
+of plate in constant use anywhere in Great Britain; five and a half
+centuries of good liquor have stained the gold-mounted aurochs'
+horn to a colour of unrivalled softness and beauty.</p>
+<p>Robert Eglesfield was almoner of the good Queen Philippa, wife
+of Edward III, and, like Adam de Brome, the founder of Oriel, he,
+too, commended his college to a royal patron. Ever since his time,
+the "Queen's College" has been under the patronage of the Queen's
+consort of England, and the connection has been duly acknowledged
+by many of them, especially by Henrietta Maria, the evil genius of
+Charles I, and by Queen Caroline, the good genius of George II. Her
+present Gracious Majesty, too, has recognized the college claim.
+The Queens Regnant have no obligations to the college, but Queen
+Elizabeth gave it the seal it still uses, and good Queen Anne was a
+liberal contributor to the rebuilding of the college in her day;
+her statue still adorns the cupola on the front to the High.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p9"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p9.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"482" height="368" border="3" alt="Plate IX. High Street"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate IX. High Street</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>No doubt it was the royal connection which brought to Queen's,
+if tradition may be trusted, two famous warrior princes, the Black
+Prince and Henry V; though it is at least doubtful whether the
+Queen's poet, Thomas Tickell, Addison's flattering friend, had any
+authority for the picture he gives of their college life. He
+describes them as:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Sent from the Monarch's to the Muses' Court,
+            Their meals were frugal and their sleeps were short;
+            To couch at curfew time they thought no scorn,
+            And froze at matins every winters morn."
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<p>The College has an interesting portrait of the great Henry,
+which may be authentic; but that of the Black Prince, which adorns
+the college hall, is known to have been painted from a handsome
+Oxford butcher's boy, in the eighteenth century. While we condemn
+the lack of historic sense in the Provost and Fellows of that day,
+we may at least acquit them of any intention of pacificist irony in
+their choice of a model.</p>
+<p>Queen's has had better poets than Tickell on its rolls, but, by
+a curious chance, the two most eminent&mdash;Joseph Addison and
+William Collins&mdash;were both tempted away from their first
+college by the superior wealth and attractions of Magdalen.</p>
+<p>The old local connections which were such a marked feature in
+the statutes of founders, and which so profoundly influenced Oxford
+down to the Commission of 1854, have been almost swept away at
+other colleges; but at Queen's they have always been strongly
+maintained. It has been, and is, emphatically, a north-country
+college. Not the least important factor in maintaining this
+tradition has been the great benefaction of Lady Elizabeth
+Hastings, fondly and familiarly known to all Queen's men as "Lady
+Betty." Steele wrote of her when young, that to "love her was a
+liberal education"; this may have been flattery, but her bounty, at
+any rate, has given a "liberal education" to hundreds of
+north-country men, who come up from the twelve schools of her
+foundation to her college at Oxford.</p>
+<p>It is interesting to note in Modern Oxford, attempts to
+re-establish those local connections, which the wisdom of our
+ancestors established, and which the self-complacency of Victorian
+reformers "vilely cast away."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="NewC1" id="NewC1">NEW COLLEGE (1) FOUNDER AND
+BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"There the kindly fates allowed
+ Me too room, and made me proud,
+ Prouder name I have not wist,
+ With the name of Wykehamist."
+                    L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p10"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p10.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="483" border="3" alt=
+"Plate X. New College : The Entrance Gateway"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate X. New College : The Entrance
+Gateway</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Among the "Founders" of Oxford colleges, three stand out
+pre-eminent &mdash;all three bishops of Winchester and great public
+servants. If Wolsey has undisputed claims for first place, there
+can be little doubt that, in spite of the great public services of
+Bishop Foxe, the Founder of Corpus, the second place must be
+assigned to William of Wykeham, "sometime Lord High Chancellor of
+England, the sole and munificent founder of the two St. Mary Winton
+colleges." Others, beside Wykehamists, hear with pleasure the
+magnificent roll of the titles of the Founder of New College, when
+one of his intellectual sons occupies the University pulpit, and
+gives thanks for "founders and benefactors, such as were William of
+Wykeham."</p>
+<p>In Oxford, without doubt, his great claim to be remembered will
+be held to be his college with the school at Winchester, which he
+linked to it. But he was also a reformer and a champion of
+Parliamentary privilege in the days when the "Good Parliament" set
+to work to check the misgovernment of Edward III in his dotage,
+and, as an architect, he is equally famous as having given to
+Windsor Castle its present shape, and as having secured the final
+triumph of the Perpendicular style by his glorious nave at
+Winchester.</p>
+<p>William of Wykeham is a very striking instance of what is too
+often Forgotten&mdash;viz., that in the Mediaeval Church all
+professional men, and not simply spiritual pastors, found their
+work and their reward in the ranks of the clergy. As "supervisor of
+the king's works," he earned the royal favour, which, after sixteen
+years of service, rewarded him with the rich bishopric of
+Winchester. Such a career and such a reward seem to modern ideas
+incongruous, even as they did to John Wycliffe, his great
+contemporary, who complained of men being made bishops because they
+were "wise in building castles." But many forms of service were
+needed to create England; Wykeham and Wycliffe both have a place in
+the roll of its "Makers." At all events, if Wykeham obtained his
+wealth by secular service, he spent it for the promoting of the
+welfare of the Church, as he conceived it. The purpose of his two
+colleges was to remedy the shortness of clergy in his day, and to
+assist the <i>militia clericalis</i> , which had been grievously
+reduced <i>pestilentiis, guerris et aliis mundi miseriis</i> (an
+obvious reference to the Black Death).</p>
+<p>New College was planned on a scale of magnificence which far
+exceeded any of the earlier colleges. It was emphatically the "New
+College," [1] and its foundation (it was opened in 1386) marks the
+final triumph of the college system.</p>
+<p>[1] The popular name has entirety displaced its official style.
+Rather more than a generation ago, an historically minded
+Wykehamist tried to revive the proper style of his college, and
+headed all his letters "The College, of St. Mary of Winchester,
+Oxford." The result was disastrous for him; the replies came to the
+Vicar of St. Mary's, to St. Mary's Hall, to Winchester, anywhere
+but to him; and very soon practical necessity overcame antiquarian,
+propriety.</p>
+<p>Its Warden was to have a state corresponding to that of the
+great mitred abbots; the stables, where he kept his six horses, on
+the south side of New College Lane (to be seen in <a href=
+"#p10">Plate X</a> on the right), show, by their perfect masonry,
+how well the architect-bishop chose his materials and how skilfully
+they were worked.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance tower, in the centre of the picture, with its
+statues of the Blessed Virgin and of the Founder in adoration below
+on her left, was the abode of the Warden; but his lodgings, still
+the most magnificent home in Oxford, extended in both directions
+from the tower.</p>
+<p>Behind this front lay Wykeham's Quad, nestling under the shadow
+of the towering chapel and hall on the north side. Here also, as in
+the stables, the technical knowledge of the Founder is seen; his
+"chambers," after more than 500 years, have still their old stone
+unrenewed; while the third story, added 300 years later on
+(1674-5), has had to be entirely refaced.</p>
+<p>But it is in the public buildings, and especially in the chapel,
+that the greatness of Wykeham, as an architect, is best seen. In
+spite of the destructive fanaticism of the Reformation, and the
+almost equally destructive "restorations" of the notorious Wyatt,
+and of Sir Gilbert Scott (who inexcusably raised the height of the
+roof), the chapel still is indisputably the finest in Oxford. And
+its glass may challenge a still wider field. The eight great
+windows in the ante-chapel, dating from the Founder's time, rival
+the glories of the French cathedrals; the windows of the chapel
+proper, whatever be thought of their artistic success, are a unique
+instance of what English glass-makers could do in the eighteenth
+century; and Sir Joshua Reynolds' west window (the outside of which
+is seen in the centre of the next picture) has at all events the
+suffrages of the majority, who agree with Horace Walpole that it is
+"glorious," and that "the sun shining through the transparencies
+has a magic effect." It must be added, however, that Walpole soon
+changed his mind, and was very severe on Sir Joshua's "washy
+virtues," which have been compared to "seven chambermaids."</p>
+<p>Not the least interesting feature of the Founder's chapel is its
+detached bell-tower, seen in the next picture, on the north side of
+the cloisters. He obtained leave to place this on the city wall, a
+large section of which the College undertook to maintain-thus
+adding a permanent charm to their own garden.</p>
+<p>The magnificence of the Founder Bishop is well seen in his
+splendid crozier, bequeathed to him by his college, and still
+preserved on the north side of the chapel. The results of his work,
+for Oxford and for learning, will be briefly told of in the next
+chapter.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p11"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p11.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XI. New College : The Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XI. New College : The Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="NewC2" id="NewC2">NEW COLLEGE (2) HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Round thy cloisters, in moonlight,
+ Branching dark, or touched with white:
+ Round old chill aisles, where, moon-smitten,
+ Blanches the Orate, written
+ Under each worn old-world face."
+                                  L. JOHHSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>William of Wykeham's College had other marked features besides
+its magnificent scale. Previous colleges had grown; at New College
+everything was organized from the first. As the great architectural
+History of Cambridge says: "For the first time, chapel, hall,
+library, treasury, the Warden's lodgings, a sufficient range of
+chambers, the cloister, the various domestic offices, are provided
+for and erected without change of plan." The chapel especially gave
+the model for the T shape, a choir and transepts without a nave,
+which has become the normal form in Oxford. The influence of
+Wykeham's building plan may be traced elsewhere also&mdash;at
+Cambridge and even in Scotland.</p>
+<p>In these well-planned buildings, definite arrangements were made
+for college instruction, as opposed to the general teaching open to
+the whole University; special <i>informafores</i> were provided,
+who were to supervise the work of all scholars up to the age of
+sixteen. This marks the beginning of the Tutorial System, which has
+ever since played so great a part in the intellectual life of
+England's two old Universities.</p>
+<p>Wykeham's scholars all came from Winchester, and were supposed
+to be <i>pauperes</i> , but as one of the first, Henry Chichele,
+afterwards Henry V's Archbishop of Canterbury and the Founder of
+All Souls', was a son of the Lord Mayor of London, it is obvious
+that the qualification of "poverty" was interpreted with some
+laxity. It was not until the middle of the nineteenth century that
+others than Wykehamists were admitted as scholars.</p>
+<p>The fact that a mere boy was elected to a position which
+provided for him for life was not calculated to stimulate
+subsequent intellectual activity, and Wykehamists themselves have
+been among the first to say that the intellectual distinction of
+the great bishop's beneficiaries has by no means corresponded to
+the magnificence of the foundation or the noble intentions of the
+Founder. Antony Wood records in the seventeenth century that there
+was already an "ugly proverb" as to New College men&mdash;"Golden
+scholars, silver Bachelors, leaden Masters, wooden Doctors," "which
+is attributed," he goes on, "to their rich fellowships, especially
+to their ease and good diet, in which I think they exceed any
+college else."</p>
+<p>The nineteenth century has changed all this; the small and close
+college of pre-Commission days has become one of the largest and
+most intellectual in the University; but Winchester men in their
+Oxford college fully hold their own in every way against the
+scholars from the world outside, who are now admitted to share with
+them the advantages of Wykeham's foundation.</p>
+<p>The bishop's careful provision, however, of good teaching at his
+school and in his college bore good fruit at first, whatever may
+have been the result later. If Corpus is especially the college of
+the revival of learning, New College had prepared the way, and the
+first Englishman to teach Greek in Oxford was the New College
+fellow, William Grocyn, whom Erasmus called the "most upright and
+best of all Britons." From the same college, about the same time,
+came the patron of Erasmus, Archbishop Warham, of whose saintly
+simplicity and love of learning he gives so attractive a picture.
+Warham was not forgetful of his old college, and presented the
+beautiful "linen fold" panelling which still adorns the hall.</p>
+<p>At the time of the Reformation, New College was especially
+attached to the old form of the faith, and it has been maintained
+that the dangerous lowness of the wicket entrance in the Gate Tower
+was due to the deliberate purpose of the governing body, who
+resolved that everyone who entered the college, however Protestant
+his views, should bow his head under the statue of the Blessed
+Virgin above. At any rate, one New College man in the seventeenth
+century attributed his perversion to "the lively memorials of
+Popery in statues and pictures in the gates and in the chapel of
+New College."</p>
+<p>Certain it is that under Elizabeth, after the purging of the
+college from its recusant fellows, who contributed a large share of
+the Roman controversialists to the colleges of Louvain and Douai,
+Wykeham's foundation sank, as has been said, into inglorious ease
+for two centuries. Yet, during this period, it had the honour of
+producing two of the Seven Bishops who resisted King James II's
+attack on the English Constitution&mdash;one of them the saintly
+hymn writer, Thomas Ken. And to the darkest days of the eighteenth
+century belongs the most famous picture of the ideal Oxford life:
+"I spent many years, in that illustrious society, in a
+well-regulated course of useful discipline and studies, and in the
+agreeable and improving commerce of gentlemen and of scholars; in a
+society where emulation without envy, ambition without jealousy,
+contention without animosity, incited industry and awakened genius;
+where a liberal pursuit of knowledge and a genuine freedom of
+thought was raised, encouraged, and pushed forward by example, by
+commendation, and by authority." These were the words of Bishop
+Lowth, whose great work on <i>The Poetry of the Hebrews</i> was
+delivered as lectures for the Chair of Poetry at Oxford.</p>
+<p>The spirit of Oxford has never been better described, and even
+that bitter critic, the great historian Gibbon, admits that Lowth
+practised what he preached, and that he was an ornament to the
+University in its darkest period. Of the days of Reform a
+forerunner was found in Sydney Smith, the witty Canon of St.
+Paul's.</p>
+<p>The names of New College men famous for learning or for
+political success, during the last half-century, are too recent to
+mention, but it is fitting to put on record that to New College
+belongs the sad distinction of having the longest Roll of Honour in
+the late War. It has lost about 250 of its sons, including four of
+the most distinguished young tutors in Oxford; History and
+Philosophy, Scholarship and Natural Science are all of them the
+poorer for the premature loss of Cheesman and Heath, Hunter and
+Geoffrey Smith; their names are familiar to everyone in Oxford, and
+they would have been familiar some day to the world of scholars
+everywhere. <i>Dis aliter visum est</i> .</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="LincolnC" id="LincolnC">LINCOLN COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "This is the chapel; here, my son,
+ Thy father dreamed the dreams of youth,
+ And heard the words, which, one by one,
+ The touch of life has turned to truth."
+                               NEWBOLT.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p12"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p12.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"333" height="498" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The name of Lincoln College recalls a fact familiar to all
+students of ecclesiastical history, though surprising to the
+ordinary man&mdash;viz., that Oxford, till the Reformation, was in
+the great diocese of Lincoln, which stretched right across the
+Midlands from the Humber to the Thames. This fact had an important
+bearing on the history of the University; its bishop was near
+enough to help and protect, but not near enough to interfere
+constantly. Hence arose the curious position of the Oxford
+Chancellor, the real head of the mediaeval University and still its
+nominal head; though an ecclesiastical dignitary, and representing
+the Bishop, the Oxford Chancellor was not a cathedral official, but
+the elect of the resident Masters of Arts. How important this
+arrangement was for the independence of the University will be
+obvious.</p>
+<p>The ecclesiastical position of Oxford is responsible also for
+the foundation of four of its colleges; both Lincoln and Brasenose,
+colleges that touch each other, were founded by Bishops of Lincoln;
+Foxe and Wolsey, too, though holding other sees later, ruled over
+the great midland diocese.</p>
+<p>Richard Fleming, the Bishop of Lincoln, who founded the college
+that bears the name of his see, was in some ways a remarkable man.
+When resident in Oxford, he had been prominent among the followers
+of John Wycliffe and had shared his reforming views; but he was
+alarmed at the development of his master's teaching in the hands of
+disciples, and set himself to oppose the movement which he had once
+favoured. He founded his "little college" with the express object
+of training "theologians" "to defend the mysteries of the sacred
+page against those ignorant laics, who profaned with swinish snouts
+its most holy pearls." It is curious that Lincoln's great title to
+fame&mdash;and it is a very great one&mdash;is that its most
+distinguished fellow was John Wesley, the Wycliffe of the
+eighteenth century.</p>
+<p>The connection of Oxford and Lincoln College with Wesley and his
+movement is no accidental one, based merely on the fact that he
+resided there for a certain time. Humanly speaking, Wesley's
+connection with Lincoln was a determining factor in his spiritual
+and mental development, and it was while he was there that his
+followers received the name of "Methodists," a name given in scorn,
+but one which has become a thing of pride to millions. Wesley was a
+fellow of Lincoln for nine years, from 1726 to 1735. During the
+most impressionable years of a man's life&mdash;he was only
+twenty-three when he was elected fellow&mdash;he was developing his
+mental powers by an elaborate course of studies, and his spiritual
+life by the careful use of every form of religious discipline which
+the Church prescribed. A college, with its daily services and its
+life apart from the world, rendered the practice of such discipline
+possible. It was because Wesley and his followers, his brother
+Charles, George Whitefield and others, observed this discipline so
+carefully that they obtained their nickname. It is with good reason
+that Lincoln Chapel is visited by his disciples from all parts of
+the world; it has been little altered since his time, his pulpit is
+still here, and the glass and the carving which make it very
+interesting, if not beautiful, are those which he saw daily.</p>
+<p>The chapel is the memorial of the devotion to Lincoln of another
+churchman, more successful than Wesley from a worldly point of
+view, but now forgotten by all except professed students of
+history. John Williams, Bishop of Lincoln from 1621 to 1641, was
+the last ecclesiastic who "kept" the Great Seal of England. He had
+the misfortune to differ from Laud on the Church Question of the
+day, and was prosecuted before the Star Chamber for subornation of
+perjury, and heavily fined. There seems no doubt that he was
+guilty; but it was to advocacy of moderation and to his dislike of
+the king's arbitrary rule that he owed the severity of his
+punishment. Whatever his moral character, at all events he gave his
+college a beautiful little chapel, which is often compared to the
+slightly older one at Wadham; that of Lincoln is much the less
+spacious of the two, but in its wood carvings, at any rate, it is
+superior.</p>
+<p>Lincoln had the ill-fortune, in the nineteenth century, to
+produce the writer of one of those academic "Memoirs," which
+reveal, with a scholar's literary style, and also with a scholar's
+bitterness, the intrigues and quarrels that from time to time arise
+within college walls. Mark Pattison is likely to be remembered by
+the world in general because he is said to have been the original
+of George Eliot's "Mr. Casaubon"; in Oxford he will be remembered
+not only for the "Memoirs," but also as one who upheld the highest
+ideal of "Scholarship" when it was likely to be forgotten, and who
+criticized the neglect of "research." The personal attacks were
+those of a disappointed man; the criticisms, one-sided as they
+were, were certainly not unjustified.</p>
+<p>A university should certainly exist to promote learning, and
+Mark Pattison, with all his unfairness, certainly helped its cause
+in Oxford. But a university exists also for the promotion of
+friendships among young men, and for the development of their
+social life. Of this duty, Oxford has never been unmindful, and
+perhaps it is in small colleges like Lincoln that the flowers of
+friendship best flourish. It is needless to make comparisons, for
+they flourish everywhere; but it is appropriate to quote, when
+writing of one of the smaller Oxford colleges, the verses on this
+subject of a recent Lincoln poet (now dead); they will come home to
+every Oxford man:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "City of my loves and dreams,
+            Lady throned by limpid streams;
+           'Neath the shadow of thy towers,
+            Numbered I my happiest hours.
+            Here the youth became a man;
+            Thought and reason here began.
+            Ah! my friends, I thought you then
+            Perfect types of perfect men:
+            Glamour fades, I know not how,
+            Ye have all your failings now,"
+</pre>
+<p>But Oxford friendships outlast the discovery that friends have
+"failings"; as Lord Morley, who went to Lincoln in 1856, writes:
+"Companionship (at Oxford) was more than lectures"; a friend's
+failure later (he refers to his contemporary, Cotter Morison's
+<i>Service of Man</i> ) "could not impair the captivating
+comradeship of his prime."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MagdalenC1" id="MagdalenC1">MAGDALEN COLLEGE (1) SITE
+AND BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "Where yearly in that vernal hour
+ The sacred city is in shades reclining,
+ With gilded turrets in the sunrise shining:
+ From sainted Magdalene's aerial tower
+ Sounds far aloof that ancient chant are singing,
+ And round the heart again those solemn memories bringing."
+                                           ISAAC WILLIAMS.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Macaulay was too good a Cambridge man to appreciate an Oxford
+college at its full worth; but he devotes one of his finest purple
+patches to the praise of Magdalen, ending, as is fitting, "with the
+spacious gardens along the river side," which, by the way, are not
+"gardens." Antony Wood praises Magdalen as "the most noble and rich
+structure in the learned world," with its water walks as
+"delectable as the banks of Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont
+to walk." To go a century further back, the Elizabethan, Sir John
+Davies, wrote:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "O honeyed Magdalen, sweete, past compare
+            Of all the blissful heavens on earth that are."
+</pre>
+<p>Such praises could be multiplied indefinitely, and they are all
+deserved.</p>
+<p>The good genius of Magdalen has been faithful to it throughout.
+The old picturesque buildings on the High Street, taken over (1457)
+by the Founder, William of Waynflete, from the already existing
+hospital of St. John, were completed by his munificence in the most
+attractive style of English fifteenth century domestic
+architecture; Chapel and Hall, Cloisters and Founder's Tower, all
+alike are among the most beautiful in Oxford. When classical taste
+prevailed, the architectural purists of the eighteenth century were
+for sweeping almost all this away, and had a plan prepared for
+making a great classic quad; but wiser counsels, or lack of funds,
+thwarted this vandalistic design, and only the north side of the
+new quad was built, to give Magdalen a splendid specimen of
+eighteenth century work, without prejudice to the old. And in our
+own day, the genius of Bodley has raised in St. Swithun's Quad a
+building worthy of the best days of Oxford, while the hideous
+plaster roof, with which the mischievous Wyatt had marred the
+beauty of the hall, was removed, and a seemly oak roof put in its
+place. It is a great thing to be thankful for, that one set of
+college buildings in Oxford, though belonging to so many periods,
+has nothing that is not of the best.</p>
+<p>But the great glory of Magdalen has not yet been mentioned. This
+is, without doubt, its bell tower, which, standing just above the
+River Cherwell, is worthily seen, whether from near or far. A most
+curious and interesting custom is preserved in connection with it.
+Every May morning, at five o'clock (in Antony Wood's time the
+ceremony was an hour earlier), the choir mounts the tower and sings
+a hymn, which is part of the college grace; in the eighteenth
+century, however, the music was of a secular nature and lasted two
+hours. The ceremony has been made the subject of a great picture by
+Holman Hunt, and has been celebrated in many poems; the sonnet of
+Sir Herbert Warren, the present President, may be quoted as
+worthily expressing something of what has been felt by many
+generations of Magdalen men:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Morn of the year, of day and May the prime,
+            How fitly do we scale the steep dark stair,
+            Into the brightness of the matin air,
+            To praise with chanted hymn and echoing chime,
+            Dear Lord of Light, thy sublime,
+            That stooped erewhile our life's frail weeds to wear!
+            Sun, cloud and hill, all things thou fam'st so fair,
+            With us are glad and gay, greeting the time.
+            The College of the Lily leaves her sleep,
+            The grey tower rocks and trembles into sound,
+            Dawn-smitten Memnon of a happier hour;
+            Through faint-hued fields the silver waters creep:
+            Day grows, birds pipe, and robed anew and crowned,
+            Green Spring trips forth to set the world aflower."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p13"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p13.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"369" height="482" border="3" alt="Plate XIII. Magdalen Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIII. Magdalen Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The tower was put to a far different use when, in the Civil War,
+it was the fortress against an attack from the east, and stones
+were piled on its top to overwhelm any invader who might force the
+bridge.</p>
+<p>Tradition connects this tower with the name of Magdalen's
+greatest son, Thomas Wolsey, who took his B.A. about 1486, at the
+age of fifteen, as he himself in his old age proudly told his
+servant and biographer, Cavendish. Certainty he was first Junior
+and then Senior Bursar for a time, while the tower was building,
+1492-1504. But the scandal that he had to resign his bursarship for
+misappropriation of funds in connection with the tower may
+certainly be rejected.</p>
+<p>On the right of Magdalen Bridge, looking at the tower, as we see
+it in the picture, stretches Magdalen Meadow, round which run the
+famous water walks. The part of these on the north-west side is
+especially connected with Joseph Addison, who was a fellow at
+Magdalen from 1697 to 1711. He was elected "demy" (at Magdalen,
+scholars bear this name) the first year (1689) after the
+Revolution, when the fellows of Magdalen had been restored to their
+rights, so outrageously invaded by King James. This "golden"
+election was famous in Magdalen annals, at once for the number
+elected&mdash;seventeen&mdash;and for the fame of some of those
+elected. Besides the greatest of English essayists, there were
+among the new "demies," a future archbishop, a future bishop, and
+the high Tory, Henry Sacheverell, whose fiery but unbalanced
+eloquence overthrew the great Whig Ministry, which had been the
+patron of his college contemporary.</p>
+<p>Magdalen Meadow preserves still the well-beloved Oxford
+fritillaries, which are in danger of being extirpated in the fields
+below Iffley by the crowds who gather them to sell in the Oxford
+market.</p>
+<p>Of the part of the College on the High Street, the most
+interesting portion is the old stone pulpit (shown in <a href=
+"#p14">Plate XIV</a>). The connection of this with the old Hospital
+of St. John is still marked by the custom of having the University
+sermon here on St. John the Baptist's Day; this was the invariable
+rule till the eighteenth century, and the pulpit (Hearne says) was
+"all beset with boughs, by way of allusion to St. John Baptist's
+preaching in the wilderness." Even as early as Heame's time,
+however, a wet morning drove preacher and audience into the chapel,
+and open-air sermons were soon given up altogether, only to be
+revived (weather permitting) in our own day.<br>
+ The chapel lies to the left of the pulpit, and is known all the
+world over for its music; there are three famous choirs in
+Oxford&mdash;those of the Cathedral, of New College, and of
+Magdalen, and to the last, as a rule, the palm is assigned. It is
+to Oxford what the choir of King's is to Cambridge; but the chapel
+of Magdalen has not</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "The high embowed roof
+            With antique pillars massy proof,
+            And storied windows richly dight,
+            Casting a dim religious light"
+</pre>
+<p>of the "Royal Saint's" great chapel at Cambridge.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MagdalenC2" id="MagdalenC2">MAGDALEN COLLEGE (2)
+HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Sing sweetly, blessed babes that suck the breast
+ Of this sweet nectar-dropping Magdalen,
+ Their praise in holy hymns, by whom ye feast,
+ The God of gods and Waynflete, best of men,
+ Sing in an union with the Angel's quires,
+ Sith Heaven's your house."
+                                 SIR J. DAVIES.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Magdalen College was founded by William of Waynflete, Bishop of
+Winchester, who had been a faithful minister of Henry VI. He had
+served as both Master and Provost of the King's own college at Eton
+(and also as Master of Winchester College before), and from Eton he
+brought the lilies which still figure in the Magdalen shield. As a
+member of the Lancastrian party, he fell into disgrace when the
+Yorkists triumphed, but he made his peace with Edward IV, whose
+statue stands over the west door of the chapel, with those of St.
+Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, St. Swithun (Bishop of
+Winchester), and the Founder. And the Tudors were equally friendly
+to the new foundation; Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's unfortunate
+elder brother, was a resident in Magdalen on two occasions, and the
+College has still a splendid memorial of him in the great
+contemporary tapestry, representing his marriage with Catharine of
+Aragon.</p>
+<p>To the very early days of Magdalen belongs its connection with
+the Oxford Reform Movement and the Revival of Learning. Both Fox
+and Wolsey, successively Bishops of Winchester, and the munificent
+founders of Corpus and of Cardinal (i.e. Christ Church) Colleges,
+were members of Waynflete's foundation) and so probably was John
+Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, whose learning and piety so impressed
+Erasmus. "When I listen to my beloved Colet," he writes in 1499, "I
+seem to be listening to Plato himself"; and he asks&mdash;why go to
+Italy when Oxford can supply a climate "as charming as it is
+healthful" and "such culture and learning, deep, exact and worthy
+of the good old times ?" Erasmus' praise of Oxford climate is
+unusual from a foreigner; the more usual view is that of his friend
+Vives, who came to Oxford soon after as a lecturer at the new
+college of Corpus Christi; he writes from Oxford: "The weather here
+is windy, foggy and damp, and gave me a rough reception."</p>
+<p>Colet's lectures on the Epistle to the Romans, perhaps delivered
+in Magdalen College, marked an epoch in the way of the
+interpretation of Holy Scripture, by their freedom from traditional
+methods and by their endeavour to employ the best of the New
+Learning in determining the real meaning of the Apostle. To the
+same school as Colet in the Church belonged Reginald Pole,
+Archbishop in the gloomy days of Queen Mary, the only Magdalen man
+who has held the See of Canterbury.</p>
+<p>Elizabeth visited the College, and gently rebuked the Puritan
+tendencies of the then President, Dr. Humphrey, who carried his
+scruples so far as to object to the academical scarlet he had to
+wear as a Doctor of Divinity, because it savoured of the "Scarlet
+Woman." "Dr. Humphrey," said the queen, with the tact alike of a
+Tudor sovereign and of a true woman, "methinks this gown and habit
+become you very well, and I marvel that you are so strait-laced on
+this point&mdash;but I come not now to chide." This President
+complained that his headship was "more payneful than gayneful," a
+charge not usually brought against headships at Oxford.</p>
+<p>In the seventeenth century, Magdalen was, for a short time, the
+very centre of England's interest. James II, in his desire to force
+Roman Catholicism on Oxford, tried to fill the vacant Presidency
+with one of his co-religionists. His first nominee was not only
+disqualified under the statutes, but was also a man of so
+notoriously bad a character that even the king had to drop him.
+Meanwhile, the fellows, having waited, in order to oblige James,
+till the last possible moment allowed by the statutes, filled up
+the vacancy by electing one of their own number, John Hough. When
+the king pronounced this election irregular and demanded the
+removal of the President and the acceptance of his second nominee,
+the fellows declared themselves unable thus to violate their
+statutes, even at royal command, and were accordingly driven out.
+The "demies," who were offered nominations to the fellowships thus
+rendered vacant, supported their seniors, and, in their turn, too,
+were driven out; they had showed their contempt for James' intruded
+fellows by "cocking their hats" at them, and by drinking confusion
+to the Pope. When the landing of William of Orange was threatening,
+James revoked all these arbitrary proceedings, but it was too late;
+he had brought home, by a striking example, to Oxford and to
+England, that no amount of past services, no worthiness of
+character, no statutes, however clear and binding, were to weigh
+for a moment with a royal bigot, who claimed the power to
+"dispense" with any statutes. The "Restoration" of the Fellows on
+October 25, 1688, is still celebrated by a College Gaudy, when the
+toast for the evening is <i>jus suum cuique</i> .</p>
+<p>Hough remained President for thirteen years, during most of
+which time he was bishop&mdash;first of Oxford and then of
+Lichfield. He finally was translated to Worcester, where he died at
+the age of ninety-three, after declining the Archbishopric of
+Canterbury. His monument, in his cathedral, records his famous
+resistance to arbitrary authority.</p>
+<p>Magdalen in the eighteenth century has an unenviable reputation,
+owing to the memoirs of its most famous historian, Edward Gibbon,
+who matriculated, in 1752, and who describes the fourteen months
+which elapsed before he was expelled for becoming a Roman Catholic,
+"as the most idle and unprofitable of my whole life." The "Monks of
+Magdalen," as he calls the fellows, "decent, easy men," "supinely
+enjoyed the gifts of the founder." It should be added that Gibbon
+was not quite fifteen when he entered the College, and that his
+picture of it is no doubt coloured by personal bitterness. But its
+substantial justice is admitted. Certainly, nothing could be
+feebler than the <i>Vindication of Magdalen College</i> , published
+by a fellow James Hurdis, the Professor of Poetry; his intellectual
+calibre may perhaps be gauged from the exquisite silliness of his
+poem, "The Village Curate," of which the following lines, addressed
+to the Oxford heads of houses, are a fair specimen:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Ye profound
+            And serious heads, who guard the twin retreats
+            Of British learning, give the studious boy
+            His due indulgence. Let him range the field,
+            Frequent the public walk, and freely pull
+            The yielding oar. But mark the truant well,
+            And if he turn aside to vice or folly,
+            Show him the rod, and let him feel you prize
+            The parent's happiness, the public good."
+</pre>
+<p>Magdalen might fairly claim that a place so beautiful as it is,
+justifies itself by simply existing, and the perfection of its
+buildings and the beauty of its music must appeal, even to our own
+utilitarian age. But it has many other justifications besides its
+beauty; its great wealth is being continually applied to assist the
+University by the endowment of new professorships, especially for
+the Natural Sciences, and to aid real students, whether those who
+have made, or those who are likely to make, a reputation as
+researchers. It is needless to mention names: every Oxford man and
+every lover of British learning knows them.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p14"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p14.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"362" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air Pulpit"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air
+Pulpit</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>For the world in general, which cares not for research, the
+success of the College under its present President, Sir Herbert
+Warren, himself at once a poet and an Oxford Professor of Poetry,
+will be evidenced by its increase in numbers and by its athletic
+successes. They will judge as our King judged when he chose
+Magdalen for the academic home of the Prince of Wales. The Prince,
+unlike other royal persons at Magdalen and elsewhere, lived
+(1912-14) not in the lodgings of the President, or among dons and
+professors, but in his own set of rooms, like any ordinary
+undergraduate. He showed, in Oxford, that power of self-adaptation
+which has since won him golden opinions in the great Dominion and
+the greater Republic of the West.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BrasenoseC" id="BrasenoseC">BRASENOSE COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Of the colleges of Oxford, Exeter is the most
+ proper for western, Queen's for northern, and
+ Brasenose for north-western men."
+                          FULLER, <i>Worthies.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p15"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p15.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="484" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and Radcliffe Library"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and
+Radcliffe Library</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Brasenose college is in the very centre of the University,
+fronting as it does on Radcliffe Square, where Gibbs' beautiful
+dome supplies the Bodleian with a splendid reading-room. And this
+site has always been consecrated to students; where the front of
+Brasenose now stands ran School Street, leading from the old
+<i>Scholae Publicae</i> , in which the disputations of the
+Mediaeval University were held, to St. Mary's Church.</p>
+<p>It was from this neighbourhood that some Oxford scholars
+migrated to Stamford in 1334, in order to escape one of the many
+Town and Gown rows, which rendered Mediaeval Oxford anything but a
+place of quiet academic study. They seem to have carried with them
+the emblem of their hall, a fine sanctuary knocker of brass,
+representing a lion's head, with a ring through its nose; this
+knocker was installed at a house in Stamford, which still retains
+the name it gave, "Brasenose Hall." The knocker itself was there
+till 1890, when the College recovered the relic (it now hangs in
+the hall). The students were compelled by threats of
+excommunication to return to their old university, and down to the
+beginning of the nineteenth century, Oxford men, when admitted to
+the degree of M.A., were compelled to swear "not to lecture at
+Stamford."</p>
+<p>The old "King's Hall," which bore the name of "Brasenose," was
+transformed into a college in 1511 by the munificence of our first
+lay founder, Sir Richard Sutton; he shared his benevolence,
+however, with Bishop Smith, of Lincoln. The College celebrated, in
+1911, its quatercentenary in an appropriate way, by publishing its
+register in full, with a group of most interesting monographs on
+various aspects of the College history.</p>
+<p>The buildings are a good example of the typical Oxford college;
+the Front Quad, shown in our picture, belongs to the time of the
+Founders, but the picturesque third story of dormer windows, which
+give it a special charm, dates from the reign of James I, when all
+colleges were rapidly increasing their numbers and their
+accommodation. Of the rest of the buildings of Brasenose, the
+chapel deserves special notice, for it was the last effort of the
+Gothic style in Oxford, and it was actually finished in the days of
+Cromwell, not a period likely to be favourable to the erection of
+new college chapels.</p>
+<p>Brasenose (or B.N.C., as it is universally called) has produced
+a prime minister of England in Henry Addington, whom the college
+record kindly describes as "not the most distinguished" statesman
+who has held that position: but a much better known worthy is John
+Foxe, the Martyrologist, whose chained works used to add a grim
+charm of horror to so many parish churches in England; the
+experiences of the young Macaulay, at Cheddar, are an example which
+could be paralleled by those of countless young readers of Foxe,
+who, however, did not become great historians and are forgotten.
+Somewhat junior to Foxe, at B.N.C., was Robert Burton, the author
+of the <i>Anatomy of Melancholy</i> , who found both his lifework
+as a parish vicar, and his burial-place in Oxford.</p>
+<p>But these names, and the names of many other B.N.C. worthies,
+hardly attain to the first rank in the annals of England's life.
+The distinguishing features of the College have long been its
+special connection with the Palatine counties, Lancashire and
+Cheshire, and its prominence in the athletic life which is so large
+a part of Oxford's attraction. To the connection with Lancashire,
+B.N.C. owes the name of its college boat, "The Child of Hale"; for
+John Middleton, the famous, giant, who is said to have been 9 ft. 3
+in. high (perhaps measurements were loose when James I was king),
+was invited by the members of his county to visit the College,
+where he is said to have left a picture of his hand; this the ever
+curious Pepys paid 2s. to see. A more profitable connection between
+Lancashire and B.N.C. is the famous Hulmeian endowment, which is
+almost a record instance of the value of the unearned increment of
+land to a learned foundation.</p>
+<p>The rowing men of Brasenose are as famous as the scholars of
+Balliol. The poet parodist, half a century ago, described her
+as:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Queen of the Isis wave,
+            Who trains her crews on beef and beer,
+            Competitors to brave,"
+</pre>
+<p>and the lines written in jest were a true compliment. The young
+manhood of England had maintained its vigour by its love of
+athletics, and has learned, in the discipline of the athletic club,
+how to obey and also how to command. Hence it was fitting that to
+B.N.C. should fall the honour of giving to Britain her greatest
+soldier in the Great War; Lord Haig of Bemerside was an
+undergraduate member of the College in the 'eighties of the last
+century, and the College has honoured him and itself by making him
+an Honorary Fellow.</p>
+<p>Most Oxford colleges have their quaint and distinctive customs;
+that of Brasenose was certainly not inappropriate to the character
+that has just been sketched. Every Shrove Tuesday some junior
+member of the College presented verses to the butler in honour of
+Brasenose ale, and received a draught in return. The custom is
+recorded by Hearne more than two hundred years ago, and may well be
+older, though, as the poet of the Quatercentenary sadly confessed,
+its attribution to King Alfred&mdash;</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Our woven fantasy of Alfred's ale,
+            By conclusive cut of critic dry,
+            Is shredded clean away."
+</pre>
+<p>The most distinguished poet who thus commemorated the special
+drink of England and of B.N.C. was Reginald Heber, bishop and
+hymn-writer, who composed the verses in 1806; the compositions have
+been collected and published at least three times. When the old
+brew-house was pulled down to make room for the New Quad, the
+College gave up brewing its own beer, and its poets ceased to
+celebrate it; but the custom was revived, as has been said, in
+1909. It may be permitted to a non-Brasenose man to quote and echo
+the patriotic expressions of the versifier of 1886:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Shall Brasenose, therefore, fail to hold her own?
+            She nerves herself, anew, for coming strife,
+            Her vigorous pulses beat with strength and life.
+            Courage, my brothers! Troubles past forget!
+            On to fresh deeds! the gods love Brasenose yet."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="CorpusC" id="CorpusC">CORPUS CHIRSTI COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"But still the old quadrangle keeps the same,
+ The pelican is here;
+ Ancestral genius of the place, whose name
+ All Corpus men revere."
+             J. J. C., in "<i>The Pelican Record,</i>" 1700.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p16"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p16.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"362" height="474" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First Quadrangle"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First
+Quadrangle</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Corpus is emphatically, before all other colleges in Oxford, the
+college of the Revival of Learning; its very foundation marked the
+change from the old order of things to the new. Its Founder, Bishop
+Foxe, of Winchester, was one of the great statesman-prelates to
+whom mediaeval England owed so much, and he had a leading share in
+arranging the two royal marriages which so profoundly affected the
+history of our country, that of Henry VII's daughter, Margaret,
+with the King of Scotland, and that of his son, afterwards Henry
+VIII, with Catharine of Aragon.</p>
+<p>After a life spent "in the service of God" "in the State,"
+rather than "in the Church," Foxe resolved to devote some of his
+great wealth to a foundation for the strengthening of the Church.
+His first intention was to found a college for monks, but,
+fortunately for his memory and for Oxford, he followed the advice
+of his friend, Bishop Oldham, of Exeter, who told him, in words
+truly prophetic, that the days of monasteries were past: "What, my
+lord, shall we build housed for a company of buzzing monks, whose
+end and fall we ourselves may live to see? No, no, it is more meet
+a great deal that we should have care to provide for the increase
+of learning." In the next generation the monasteries were all swept
+away, while Foxe's College remains a monument of the Founder's
+pious liberality and of his friend's wise prescience.</p>
+<p>Corpus was the first institution in England where definite
+provision was made for a teacher of the Greek Language, and Erasmus
+hailed it with enthusiasm; in a letter to the first President of
+the new college, he definitely contrasts the conciliatory methods
+of Reformers in England with the more violent methods of those in
+Germany, and counts Foxe's foundation, which he compares to the
+Pyramids of Egypt or the Colossus of Rhodes, among "the chief
+glories of Britain."</p>
+<p>Foxe, however, did not confine his benefactions to classical
+studies, important as these were. He imported a German to teach his
+scholars mathematics, and the scientific tastes of his students are
+well illustrated by the picturesque and curious dial, still in the
+centre of his College Quad, which was constructed by one of them in
+the reign of Elizabeth. It is well shown in our picture, as are
+also Foxe's charming low buildings, almost unaltered since the time
+of their Founder.</p>
+<p>But it has been on the humanistic, rather than on the
+scientific, side that Corpus men have specially distinguished
+themselves. The first century of the College existence produced the
+two great Elizabethan champions of Anglicanism. Bishop Jewel, whose
+"Apology" was for a long period the great bulwark of the English
+Church against Jesuit attacks, had laid the foundations of his
+great learning in the Corpus Library, still&mdash;after that of
+Merton&mdash;the most picturesque in Oxford; he often spent whole
+days there, beginning an hour before Early Mass, i.e. at 4 a.m.,
+and continuing his reading till 10 p.m. "There were giants on the
+earth in those days." Even more famous is the "judicious Hooker,"
+who resided in the college for sixteen years, and only left it
+when, by the wiles of a woman, he, "like a true Nathanael who
+feared no guile" (as his biographer, Isaac Walton, writes), was
+entrapped into a marriage which "brought him neither beauty nor
+fortune." The first editor of his great work, <i>The Ecclesiastical
+Polity</i> , was a Corpus man, and it was only fitting that the
+Anglican Revival of the nineteenth century should receive its first
+impulse from the famous Assize Sermon (in 1833) of another Corpus
+scholar, John Keble.</p>
+<p>Corpus has been singularly fortunate in its history, no doubt
+because its Presidents have been so frequently men of mark for
+learning and for character. Even in the dark period of the
+eighteenth century it recovered sooner than the rest of the
+University, and one of its sons records complacently that "scarcely
+a day passed without my having added to my stock of knowledge some
+new fact or idea." A charming picture of the life of the scholars
+of Corpus at the beginning of the last century is given in
+Stanley's <i>Life of Arnold</i> ; for the famous reformer of the
+English public-school system was at the College immediately after
+John Keble, whom he followed as fellow to Oriel, on the other side
+of the road. It need hardly be added that in those days an Oriel
+Fellowship was the crown of intellectual distinction in Oxford.</p>
+<p>Bishop Foxe had set up his college as a "ladder" by which, "with
+one side of it virtue and the other knowledge," men might, while
+they "are strangers and pilgrims in this unhappy and dying world,"
+"mount more easily to heaven." Changing his metaphor he goes on,
+"We have founded and raised up in the University of Oxford a hive
+wherein scholars, like intelligent bees, may, night and day, build
+up wax to the glory of God, and gather honeyed sweets for their own
+profit and that of all Christian men." So far as it is given to
+human institutions to succeed, his college has fulfilled his
+aims.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC1" id="ChristC1">CHRIST CHURCH (1) THE
+CATHEDRAL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Those voiceless towers so tranquil seem,
+ And yet so solemn in their might,
+ A loving heart could almost deem
+ That they themselves might conscious be
+ That they were filled with immortality."
+                           F. W. FABER.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p17"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p17.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"482" height="366" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Meadows"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral
+from the Meadows</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The east end of Oxford Cathedral, shown both in the frontispiece
+(<a href="#p1">Plate I</a>) and <a href="#p17">Plate XVII</a>,
+probably contains the oldest buildings, above ground, in Oxford.
+Inside the cathedral can clearly be seen traces of three round
+arches, which may well be part of the church founded by St.
+Frideswyde in the eighth century. That princess, according to the
+tradition, the details of which are all pictured by Burne-Jones in
+the east window of the Latin Chapel, having escaped by a miracle
+the advances of too ardent a suitor, founded a nunnery at Oxford.
+The nunnery, which was later transferred to Canons, was undoubtedly
+the earliest institution in Oxford, and in its cloisters, in the
+second decade of the twelfth century, we hear of students gathering
+for instruction. It was this old monastery, which Wolsey, with his
+reforming zeal, chose as the site of his great Cardinal College,
+and the chapel of the old foundation was to serve for his new one,
+until such time as a great new chapel, rivalling in splendour that
+of King's College at Cambridge, had been built on the north side of
+Tom Quad. This new chapel never got beyond the stage of
+foundations; and hence the old building has continued to serve the
+college till this day, having been made also the cathedral of the
+new diocese of Oxford, which was founded by King Henry VIII. Wolsey
+may, perhaps, be credited with the fine fan tracery of the choir
+roof, but he certainly swept away three bays of the nave in order
+to carry out his ambitious building plans, and only one of these
+three bays has been restored in the nineteenth century.</p>
+<p>Wolsey's action at Christ Church was significant. Men felt that
+the days of monasteries were past, and the Church was ready to
+welcome and to extend the New Learning. But his changes were a
+dangerous precedent; as Fuller says with his usual quaintness: "All
+the forest of religious foundations in England did shake, justly
+fearing the King would finish to fell the oaks, seeing the Cardinal
+began to cut the underwood." Henry, however, when he swept away the
+monasteries, spared his great minister's work; modifying it,
+however, as has just been said, by associating the newly-founded
+college with the diocese of Oxford, now formed out of the unwieldy
+See of Lincoln.</p>
+<p>The cathedral is the smallest in England, but contains many
+features of special interest; its most marked peculiarity is the
+great breadth of the choir, due to the addition of two aisles on
+the north side; these were built to gain more room for the
+worshippers at the shrine of St. Frideswyde. Another feature of
+architectural interest is the spire, which is one of the earliest
+in England. But perhaps even more interesting is the wonderful
+series of glass windows, which give good examples of almost every
+English style from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century. And
+for once the moderns can hold their own; the Burne-Jones windows of
+the choir (not, however, the Frideswyde window, already mentioned)
+are particularly beautiful.</p>
+<p>The hand of the "restorer" has been active at Christ Church, as
+elsewhere in Oxford; Gilbert Scott took on himself to remove a fine
+fourteenth-century window from the east end of the choir, and to
+substitute the Norman work shown in <a href="#p1">Plate I</a>. The
+effect is admittedly good, but it may be questioned whether it be
+right to falsify architectural history in this way.</p>
+<p>Oxford Cathedral has great associations apart from the college
+to which it belongs. It was to it that Cranmer was brought to
+receive the Pope's sentence of condemnation, and in the cloisters
+the ceremony of his degradation from the archbishopric was carried
+out. Almost a century later the Cathedral was the centre of the
+religious life of the Royalist party; when Charles I made his
+capital in Oxford and his home in Christ Church, and when the
+Cavaliers fought to the war-cry of "Church and King." It is not
+surprising that, when the Parliamentarians entered Oxford, the
+windows of the Cathedral were much "abused"; that so much old glass
+was spared was probably due to the local patriotism of old Oxford
+men.</p>
+<p>In the next century it was to Christ Church that Bishop
+Berkeley, the greatest of British philosophers, retired to end his
+days, and to find a burial-place; and, during the long life of Dr.
+Pusey, the Cathedral of Oxford was a place of pilgrimage, as the
+living centre of the Oxford movement.</p>
+<p>In the back of the picture (<a href="#p17">Plate XVII</a>),
+behind the Cathedral, rises the square tower, put up by Mr. Bodley
+to contain the famous Christ Church peal of bells (now twelve in
+number), familiar through Dean Aldrich's famous round, "Hark, the
+bonny Christ Church bells." When the tower was erected, it was the
+subject of much criticism, especially from the witty pen of C. L.
+Dodgson, the world-famous creator of <i>Alice in Wonderland</i> .
+The opening paragraph is a fair specimen:</p>
+<p>"Of the etymological significance of the new belfry, Christ
+Church.</p>
+<p>"The word 'belfry' is derived from the French ' <i>bel</i> &mdash;
+beautiful, meet,' and from the German ' <i>frei</i> &mdash;free,
+unfettered, safe.' Thus the word is strictly equivalent to
+'meat-safe,' to which the new belfry bears a resemblance so perfect
+as almost to amount to coincidence."</p>
+<p>Others saw in the uncompromising squareness of the new tower a
+subtle compliment to the Greek lexicon of Liddell, who then was
+Dean. But in spite of the wits, who resented any innovation in so
+famous a group of buildings, Bodley's tower is a fine one, and
+really enhances the effect of Tom Quad.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC2" id="ChristC2">CHRIST CHURCH (2) THE HALL
+STAIRCASE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"And love the high-embowed roof
+ With antique pillars massy proof."
+                            MILTON
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p18"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p18.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"366" height="486" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall Staircase"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall
+Staircase</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>When Wolsey began to build what he intended to be the most
+splendid college in the world, the first part to be finished was
+the dining-hall, with the kitchen. The wits of the time made very
+merry at this: their epigram <i>Egregium opus! Cardinalis iste
+instituit collegium et absolvit popinam</i> may be rendered:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Here's a fine piece of work! Your Cardinal
+            A college plans, completes a guzzling-hall."
+</pre>
+<p>Certainly the hall of Christ Church is the finest "popina" which
+has ever been abused by envious critics; its size and magnificence
+place it easily first among the halls of Oxford, and its great
+outline stands conspicuous in all views of Oxford from the south,
+whether by day, or when by night, to quote M. Arnold's
+"Thyrsis":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "The line of festal light in Christ Church Hall"
+</pre>
+<p>shines afar. And the kitchen, a perfect cube in shape, is worthy
+of the hall which it feeds, and is, perhaps, more appreciated by
+many of Oxford's visitors; for the taste for meringues is more
+common than that for masterpieces of portraiture. The report to
+Wolsey, in 1526, by his agent, the Warden of New College, is still
+true; the kitchen is "substantially and goodly done, in such manner
+as no two of the best colleges in Oxford have rooms so goodly and
+convenient."<br>
+<br>
+The approach to the hall, seen in <a href="#p18">Plate XVIII</a>,
+is later than Wolsey's work, but is fully worthy of him. The
+beautiful fan tracery, which hardly suffers by being compared with
+Henry VII's Chapel at Westminster, was put up, extraordinary as it
+may seem, in the middle of the seventeenth century, by the elder
+Dean Fell; all we know of its origin is that it was the work of
+"Smith, an artificer of London," surely the most modest architect
+who ever designed a masterpiece. The staircase itself is later, the
+work of the notorious Wyatt, who for once meddled with a great
+building without spoiling it.</p>
+<p>The history of Christ Church is very largely the history of the
+University of Oxford. It is still our wealthiest and largest
+foundation, although the disproportion between it and other
+colleges is by no means so great as it once was; and, thanks to its
+having been ruled by a series of famous and energetic deans, its
+periods of inglorious inactivity have been fewer than those of most
+other colleges. The roll of deans contains such names as those of
+John Owen, the most famous of Puritan preachers, John Fell,
+theologian and founder of the greatness of the Oxford Press, Henry
+Aldrich, universally accomplished as scholar, logician, musician,
+architect, Francis Atterbury, Jacobite and plotter, Cyril Jackson,
+who ruled Christ Church with a rod of iron, and who ranks first
+among the creators of nineteenth-century Oxford, Thomas Gaisford
+and Henry George Liddell, great Greek scholars. It seems that a
+college gains something by having its head appointed from outside;
+the Dean at Christ Church is appointed by the Crown.</p>
+<p>The importance of Christ Church is especially seen in its hall,
+through its collection of portraits. It is not only that this is
+superior to that of any one other college; it may well be doubted
+if the combined efforts of all the colleges could produce a
+collection equal to that of Christ Church in artistic merit, or
+superior to it in historical importance. The prime ministers of
+England, of whom Christ Church claims twelve (nine of them in the
+last century), are represented among others by George Grenville,
+the unfortunate author of the Stamp Act, George Canning, who called
+"the New World into existence to redress the balance of the Old,"
+and W. E. Gladstone; among the eight Christ Church men who have
+been Governor-Generals of India, the Marquess Wellesley stands out
+pre-eminent; Christ Church has sent five archbishops to Canterbury
+and nine to York; there is a portrait in the hall of Wake, the most
+famous of the holders of the See of Canterbury. Lord Mansfield's
+picture worthily represents the learning and impartiality of the
+English Bench. But even more interesting than any of those already
+mentioned are the portraits of John Locke, who was philosopher
+enough to forgive Christ Church for obeying James II and expelling
+him, of William Penn, presented, as was fitting, by the American
+state that bears his name, of John Wesley and of Dr. Pusey, whose
+names will be for ever associated with the two greatest of Oxford's
+religious movements. And it may well be hoped that C. L. Dodgson
+("Lewis Carroll") will delight children for many generations to
+come, as he has delighted those of the last half-century, by his
+Alice and her "Adventures."</p>
+<p>An interest, rather historical than personal, attaches to the
+group portrait that occupies a position of honour over the
+fireplace; it represents the three Oxford divines&mdash;John Fell
+(already mentioned), Dolben, who later was Archbishop of York, and
+Allestree, afterwards Provost of Eton, who braved the penal law
+against churchmen by reading the forbidden Church Service daily all
+through the time of the Commonwealth.</p>
+<p>Nowhere, so much as in Christ Church, is the poet's description
+of Oxford appropriate; her students may:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Stand, in many an ancient hall,
+            Where England's greatest deck the wall,
+            Prelate and Statesman, prince and poet;
+            Who hath an ear, let him hear them call."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p19"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p19.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"372" height="488" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC3" id="ChristC3">CHRIST CHURCH (3) "TOM"
+TOWER</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Those twins of learning, which he raised in you,
+ Ipswich and Oxford, one of which fell with him;
+ The other, though unfinished, yet so famous,
+ So excellent in art, and still so rising,
+ That Christendom shall ever speak his virtue."
+                       SHAKESPEARE, <i>Henry VIII.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Oxford is described by Matthew Amold as,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Beautiful city, with her dreaming spires,"
+</pre>
+<p>yet it is for her towers, especially, that she is famous.
+Glorious as St. Mary's is, it certainly does not surpass Magdalen
+Tower; and it may well be doubted whether the genius of Wren has
+not excelled both Magdalen and St. Mary's in "Tom" Tower. Gothic
+purists, of course, do not like it. There is a well-authenticated
+story of a really great architect who, in the early days of the
+twentieth century, was asked to submit a scheme for its repair;
+after long delay he sent in a plan for an entirely new tower on
+correct Gothic lines, because (as he wrote) no one would wish to
+preserve "so anomalous a structure" as Tom Tower. The world,
+however, does not agree with the minute critics; it is easy to find
+fault with the details of "Tom," but in proportion, in dignity, in
+suitability to his position, the greatest qualities that can be
+required in any building, "Tom" is pre-eminent. This is the more to
+be wondered at, as the tower was erected a century and a half after
+the great gateway which it crowns.</p>
+<p>The genius of Wolsey had planned a magnificent front, but only a
+little more than half of it was completed when Henry VIII ended the
+career of his greatest servant, and altered the plans of the most
+glorious college in Europe. It was not till the period just before
+the Civil War that the northern part of the front of Christ Church
+was built by the elder Dean Fell, and the work was only completed
+when his son, the famous Dr. Fell, doomed to eternal notoriety by
+the well-known rhymes about his mysterious unpopularity, employed
+Wren to build the gate tower. Yet the whole presents one harmonious
+design, worthy of the most famous of Oxford founders and of the
+greatest of British architects. It is fitting that it should be
+Wolsey's statue which adorns the gate&mdash;a statue given by stout
+old Jonathan Trelawny, one of the Seven Bishops, whose name is
+perpetuated by the refrain of Hawker's spirited ballad, which
+deceived even Macaulay as to its authenticity:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "And must Trelawny die?
+            Then thirty thousand Cornish men
+            Will know the reason why."
+</pre>
+<p>Tom Tower appeals to Oxford men through more than one of their
+senses; it is a most conspicuous object in every view; and in it is
+hung the famous bell, "Great Tom," the fourth largest bell in
+England, weighing over seven tons. This once belonged to Osney
+Abbey, when it was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and bore
+the legend:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "In Thomae laude resono Bim Bom sine fraude."
+</pre>
+<p>It was transplanted to Christ Church in the reign of Queen Mary,
+and at the time it was proposed to rechristen it "Pulcra Maria," in
+honour at once of the Queen and of the Blessed Virgin; but the old
+name prevailed. Every night but one, from May 29, 1684, until the
+Great War silenced him, Tom has sounded out, after 9 p.m., his 101
+strokes, as a signal that all should be within their college walls;
+the number is the number of the members of the foundation of Christ
+Church in 1684, when the tower was finished. During the war Tom was
+forbidden to sound, along with all other Oxford bells and clocks,
+for might not his mighty voice have guided some zeppelin or German
+aeroplane to pour down destruction on Oxford? Few things brought
+home more to Oxford the meaning of the Armistice than hearing Tom
+once more on the night of November 11, 1918.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p20"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p20.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="485" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XX. Christ Church : 'Tom' Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XX. Christ Church : "Tom"
+Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>A patriotic tradition claims for Tom the honour of having
+inspired Milton's lines in "Il Penseroso":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Hear the far-off curfew sound
+            Over some wide-watered, shore,
+            Swinging slow with sullen roar."
+</pre>
+<p>But it is difficult to believe this; Milton's connection with
+Oxford does not get nearer than Forest Hill, and blow the west wind
+as hard as it would, it could scarcely make Tom's voice reach so
+far. And the "wide-watered shore" is only appropriate to Oxford in
+flood time, the very last season when a poet would wish to remember
+it.</p>
+<p>The view in <a href="#p20">Plate XX</a> of the tower is taken
+from the front of Pembroke, and must have been often admired by
+Oxford's devoted son, Samuel Johnson, when, as a poor scholar of
+Pembroke, "he was generally to be seen (says his friend. Bishop
+Percy) lounging at the college gate, with a circle of young
+students round him, whom he was entertaining with his wit and
+keeping from their studies."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="StJohnsC" id="StJohnsC">ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"An English home&mdash;gray twilight poured
+ On dewy pastures, dewy trees,
+ Softer than sleep, all things in order stored,
+ The haunt of ancient Peace."
+                              TENNYSON, Palace of Art.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p21"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p21.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"366" height="487" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden Front"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden
+Front</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>St. John's shares with Trinity and Hertford the distinction of
+having been twice founded. As the Cistercian College of St.
+Bernard, it owed its origin to Archbishop Chichele, the founder of
+All Souls', and it continued to exist for a century as a monastic
+institution. At the Reformation it was swept away with other
+monastic foundations by the greed of Henry VIII, but it was almost
+immediately refounded, in the reign of Mary, by Sir Thomas White,
+one of the greatest of London's Lord Mayors. In all these respects
+it has an exact parallel in Trinity, which had existed as a
+Benedictine foundation, being then called "Durham College," and
+which was refounded, in the same dark period of English History, by
+another eminent Londoner, Sir Thomas Pope. It is characteristic of
+England and of the English Reformation that men, who were
+undoubtedly in sympathy with the old form of the Faith, yet gave
+their wealth and their labours to found institutions which were to
+serve English religion and English learning under the new order of
+things.</p>
+<p>For the first generation after the Founder, St. John's was torn
+by the quarrels between those who wished to undo the work of the
+Reformation altogether, and those who wished to carry it further
+and to destroy the continuity of English Church tradition. The
+final triumph of the Anglican "Via Media" was the work, above all
+others, of William Laud, who came up as scholar to St. John's in
+1590, and who, for most of the half century that followed, was the
+predominant influence in the life of the University. First in his
+own college and then in Oxford generally, he secured the triumph of
+his views on religious doctrine and order. Of these, it is not the
+place to speak here, nor yet of Laud's services to Oxford as the
+restorer of discipline, the endower and encourager of learning, the
+organizer of academic life, whose statutes were to govern Oxford
+for more than two centuries; but it is indisputable that Laud takes
+one of the highest places on the roll of benefactors, both to the
+University as a whole and to his own college.</p>
+<p>It was fitting that one who did so much for St. John's should
+leave his mark on its buildings; the inner quadrangle was largely
+built by him, and it owes to him its most characteristic features,
+the two classic colonnades on its east and west sides, and the
+lovely garden front, one of the three most beautiful things in
+Oxford: the north-east corner of this is shown in <a href=
+"#p21">Plate XXI</a>.</p>
+<p>Laud's building work was done between 1631 and 1635, and in 1636
+Charles I and his Queen visited Oxford and were entertained in the
+newly-finished college. Much bad verse was written on this event,
+two lines of which as a specimen may be quoted from the
+quaintly-named poem, "Parnassus Biceps":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Was I not blessed with Charles and Mary's name,
+            Names wherein dwells all music? 'Tis the same."
+</pre>
+<p>The part of the entertainment to royalty on which the Archbishop
+specially prided himself was the play of The Hospital of Lovers,
+which was performed entirely by St. John's men, without "borrowing
+any one actor." Laud goes on to observe that, when the Queen
+borrowed the dresses and the scenery, and had it played over again
+by her players at Hampton Court, it was universally acknowledged
+that the professionals did not come up to the amateurs&mdash;a
+truly surprising and somewhat incredible verdict. St. John's,
+however, was always strong in dramatic ability; Shirley, the last
+great representative of the Elizabethan tradition, was a student
+there, and the library has the rare distinction of having possessed
+longest the same copy of the works of Shakespeare; it still has the
+second folio, presented in 1638, by one of the fellows. St. John's
+connection with the lighter side of literature has lasted to our
+own day; the most famous of Oxford parodies is still the Oxford
+Spectator, which has not been surpassed by any of its many
+imitators in the last half century.</p>
+<p>Other colleges, however, might challenge the supremacy of St.
+John's in the humours of literature.. In the richness and beauty of
+its garden it stands unrivalled, whether quantity or quality be the
+basis of comparison. It is not only that before the east front,
+seen in <a href="#p21">Plate XXI</a>, stretches the largest garden
+in Oxford; thanks to the skill and the care of the present
+garden-master, the Rev. H. J. Bidder, this shows from month to
+month, as the pageant of summer goes on, what wealth of colour and
+variety of bloom the English climate can produce. It may be said to
+be laid out on Bacon's rule: "There ought to be gardens for all
+months in the year, in which severally things of beauty may be then
+in season"; only for "year" we naturally must read "academic year."
+If Bacon is right, that a garden is the "purest of human
+pleasures," then, indeed, St. John's should be the Oxford
+paradise.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="WadhamC1" id="WadhamC1">WADHAM COLLEGE (1) THE
+BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Here did Wren make himself a student home,
+ Or e'er he made a name that England loves;
+ I wonder if this straying shadow moves,
+ Adown the wall, as then he saw it roam."
+                                       A. UPSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p22"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p22.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"483" height="363" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from the Garden"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from
+the Garden</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The buildings of Wadham College have been pronounced by some
+good judges to be the most beautiful in Oxford. This is not,
+however, the usual opinion, nor is it my own, though, perhaps, it
+might be accepted if modified into the statement that Wadham is the
+most complete and perfect example of the ordinary type of college.
+However that may be, there are three points as to these buildings
+which are indisputable, and which are also most interesting to any
+lover of English architecture. They are:<br>
+</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+    (1) Wadham is less altered than any other college in Oxford.
+    (2) It is the finest illustration of the fact that the Gothic style
+        survived in Oxford when it was being rapidly superseded
+        elsewhere.
+    (3) No building in Oxford (very few buildings anywhere) owe their
+        effect so completely to their simplicity and their absence of
+        adornment.
+</pre>
+<p>These three points must be illustrated in detail.</p>
+<p>Wadham is the youngest college in Oxford, for all those that
+have been founded since are refoundations of older institutions
+(but, as its first stone was laid in 1610, it has a respectable
+antiquity); yet the Front Quad is completely unaltered in design,
+and of the actual stonework, hardly any has had to be renewed.
+Could the Foundress return to life, she would find the college,
+which was to her as a son, completely familiar.</p>
+<p>The second point is a more important one. In the reign of
+Elizabeth, classical architecture was being rapidly introduced;
+Gothic was giving way before the style of Palladio, even as the New
+Learning was banishing the schoolmen from the schools. This change
+is markedly seen in the Elizabethan buildings at Cambridge,
+especially in Dr. Caius' work, so far as it has been allowed to
+survive in the college that bears his name. But in Oxford the old
+style went on for half the following century; in the great building
+period of the first two Stuarts the old models were still
+faithfully copied. It was the genius of Wren, which, by its
+magnificent success in the Sheldonian, ultimately caused the new
+style to prevail over the late Gothic, of which his own college,
+Wadham, is so striking an example.</p>
+<p>In Wadham the conservative Oxford workmen were inspired by the
+presence of Somerset masons, whom the Foundress brought up from her
+own county, so rich in the splendid Gothic of the fifteenth
+century. Hence the chapel of Wadham (shown in <a href="#p22">Plate
+XXII</a>) is to all intents and purposes the choir of a great
+Somerset church. So marked is the old style in its windows that
+some of the best authorities on architecture have maintained that
+the stonework of these could not have been made in the seventeenth
+century, but must have survived from some older building; Ferguson,
+the historian of architecture, when confronted with the fact that
+the college has still the detailed accounts showing how, week by
+week, the Jacobean masons worked, swept this evidence aside with
+the dictum&mdash;"No amount of documents could prove what was
+impossible." But here the "impossible" really happened.</p>
+<p>The permanence of Gothic in Oxford is a point for professional
+students; the studied simplicity, which is the great secret of
+Wadham's beauty, concerns everyone. The effect of the garden front
+is produced simply by the long lines of the string-courses and by
+the procession of the beautifully proportioned gables. Neither here
+nor in any part of the college is there a piece of carved work,
+except in the classical screen, which marks the entry to the hall.
+It may be noted that at Wadham and at Clare, Cambridge, the same
+effect is produced by the same means; different as the two colleges
+are, the one Gothic, the other classical, they have a restful and
+complete beauty which makes them specially attractive. And this is
+due more than anything else to the unbroken lines of the stonework,
+to which everything is kept in due subordination. Clare was
+building during half a century; Wadham was finished in three years;
+but both have been fortunate in being left alone; they have not
+been "improved" by later additions.</p>
+<p>The chapel at Wadham has another feature of great interest for
+those who visit it; the glass in it (not that in the ante-chapel)
+is all contemporary with the college, and is a first-rate example
+of the taste of early Stuart times. The apostles and the prophets
+of the side windows have few merits, except their age, and the fact
+that they illustrate what local craftsmen could do in the reign of
+James I; but the big east window is of a very different rank. The
+college authorities quarrelled with the local workmen, and
+introduced a foreign craftsman, Bernard van Ling from London. In
+our day he would have been called a "blackleg," and mobbed:
+perhaps, even in the seventeenth century, he needed protection, for
+the college built him a furnace in their garden, and he there
+produced the finest specimen of seventeenth century glass that
+Oxford can show. Even for those who are not students of glass, the
+Wadham windows are attractive with their two Jonahs and two whales,
+"The big one that swallowed Jonah, and the little one that Jonah
+swallowed" (to quote an old college jest).</p>
+<p>The gardens at Wadham are famous; they have not the magnificence
+of St. John's or the antiquarian charm of the old walls at New
+College or Merton; but, for the variety and fine growth of their
+trees, they are unsurpassed, though the glory of these is passing.
+Warden Wills planted them in the days of the French Revolution, and
+trees have their time to fall at last, even though they long
+survive their planters.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="WadhamC2" id="WadhamC2">WADHAM COLLEGE (2)
+HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "But these were merciful men, whose righteousness
+ hath not been forgotten. . . . Their bodies are buried
+ in peace; but their name liveth for evermore."
+                     <i>Ecclesiasticus</i>  , xliv. 10, 14.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The collection of pictures In Wadham Hall is probably the best
+of any college in Oxford&mdash;always, of course, excepting Christ
+Church. It has no single picture to be compared with the "Thomas
+Warton" at Trinity, or the "Dr. Johnson" at Pembroke (both
+excellent works of Reynolds), nor does it give so many fine
+examples of the work of recent artists as do Trinity or Balliol;
+but it makes up for these deficiencies by the number and the
+variety of its pictures.</p>
+<p>Two only of the men they represent can be said to attain to the
+first rank among England's worthies&mdash;Robert Blake, second as
+an admiral only to Nelson and Oxford's greatest fighting man until
+the present war, and Christopher Wren, "that prodigious young
+scholar" (as John Evelyn calls him), who, as has been well said,
+would have been second only to Newton among English mathematicians
+had he not chosen rather to be indisputably the first of British
+architects. It is interesting to note that Wadham shares with All
+Souls' two of the greatest names in the Scientific Revival of the
+seventeenth century: both Wren and Thomas Sydenham, the physician,
+migrated from Wadham to fellowships at All Souls'.</p>
+<p>Their connection with Wadham is part of what is probably the most
+interesting single episode in the college history. When the
+Parliament triumphed, and the King's partisans were turned out of
+Oxford, the Lodgings at Wadham were given to the most distinguished
+of her Wardens, John Wilkins, who, no doubt, owed his promotion to
+the fact that he was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. In his
+own day everyone knew him; he was a moderate man, who interceded
+for Royalist scholars under the Commonwealth, and tempered the
+penal laws to Non-Conformists, when later he was Bishop of Chester.
+He was even better known to the "philosophers" as the inventor of a
+universal language and as curious for every advance in Natural
+Science. But, in our day, he is only remembered for his connection
+with the Royal Society; that most illustrious body grew out of the
+meetings held weekly at his Lodgings and the similar meetings held
+in London; when later these two movements were united, Wilkins was
+secretary of the committee which drew up the rules for their future
+organization, and thus prepared the way for the Royal Charter,
+given to the Society in 1662. When the Royal Society celebrated its
+250th anniversary in 1912, many of its members made a pilgrimage to
+"its cradle" (or what was, at any rate, " <i>one</i> of its
+cradles").</p>
+<p>Wadham also produced, among other early members of the Royal
+Society, its historian, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, who
+somehow, as "Pindaric Sprat" (he was the friend and also the editor
+of <i>Abraham Cowley</i> ), found his way into Johnson's <i>Lives
+of the Poets</i> ; he is, however, more likely to be remembered
+because his subserviency, when he was Dean of Westminster to James
+II, has earned him an unenviable place in Macaulay's gallery of
+Revolution worthies and unworthies. Sprat, it should be added, was
+an exception to the prevailing Whig tradition of</p>
+<p>Wadham, which found a worthy exponent in Arthur Onslow, the
+greatest Speaker of the House of Commons, who ruled over that
+august body for a record period, thirty-four years (1727-1761), and
+formed its rules and traditions in the period when it was first
+asserting its claim to govern.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p23"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p23.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"370" height="488" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Two centuries later than the Royal Society days at Wadham,
+another group of philosophers was trained there, who thought that
+the views of their master, Auguste Comte, were going to make as
+great a revolution in human thought as the views of a Bacon or a
+Newton. All the leading English Positivists were at
+Wadham&mdash;Congreve, Beesley, Bridges, Frederic Harrison, of whom
+the last alone survives, to fight with undiminished vigour for the
+causes which he championed in Mid-Victorian days. Positivism had
+less influence than its adherents expected, but it powerfully
+affected for a time the political and the religious thought of
+England.</p>
+<p>Forty years later another famous group of young men were at
+Wadham together. As they are all alive, it is impossible, and would
+be unbecoming, to estimate what their influence on English life and
+thought will be; but it was a curious coincidence that sent to
+Wadham together, in the 'nineties, Lord Birkenhead, who reached the
+Woolsack at the earliest age on record; Sir John Simon, who, if he
+had wished, could have lowered that record still further, and C. B.
+Fry, once a household name as the greatest of British athletes.</p>
+<p>Three groups of Wadham men have been spoken of; one other name
+must be mentioned of one who stood alone at college, and for a long
+time in the world outside, in his attitude to the social problems
+of our day. Whatever may be the future of the Settlement movement,
+its leader, Samuel Barnett, "Barnett of Whitechapel," is not to be
+forgotten, for his name is associated as a pioneer and an inspiring
+force with every movement of educational and social advance in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century. M. Clemenceau, no friendly
+judge of the ministers of any religious body, pronounced him one of
+the three greatest men he had met in England. Certainly he was
+great, if greatness means to anticipate the problems of the future
+before the rest of the world sees their urgency, and to make real
+contributions to their solution.</p>
+<p>It has been a feature of the history of Oxford that every
+college has, from time to time, come to the front as the special
+home and source of some movement. There has never been the
+overshadowing concentration of men and of wealth, which has given a
+more one-sided direction to the history of Cambridge. Hence the
+strength of the college system; every college has its traditions to
+live up to, its great names to cherish, and Wadham is, certainly,
+by no means last or least in these respects.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="HertfordC" id="HertfordC">HERTFORD COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Outspake the (Warden) roundly:
+ 'The bridge must straight go down;
+ For if they once should get the bridge ...'"
+                        MACAULAY, <i>Horatius,</i> adapted.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Academic bridges, over the Cam or elsewhere, are a great feature
+at Cambridge. At Oxford they were unknown till this century, when
+University first of all threw its modest little arch over Logic
+Lane; later, in 1913. the "Bridge of Sighs," which forms the
+subject of <a href="#p24">Plate XXIV</a>, was completed. There was
+a hard struggle before leave could be obtained from the City
+Council for thus bridging a public thoroughfare; University only
+maintained their claim to a bridge by a long lawsuit, in which the
+college rights were firmly established by the production of
+charters, which went back to the reign of King John. The great
+opposition to the Hertford Bridge was said to be due to regard for
+the feelings of the old Warden of New College, who considered that
+it would injure the view of his college bell-tower. Whether this
+story be true or not, Hertford obtained its permission at last, and
+Sir Thomas Jackson added a new attraction to Oxford's buildings.
+His genius has been especially shown in triumphing over the
+difficulties of the Hertford site, for it was no easy thing to
+unite into a harmonious whole, buildings so various; his new
+chapel&mdash;opened in 1908&mdash;is worthy to rank with the best
+classic architecture in Oxford.</p>
+<p>The variety of the Hertford buildings only reflects the
+chequered history of the foundations that have occupied them. As
+early as the thirteenth century Hart Hall stood on this site. In
+the eighteenth century this old hall was turned into a college by
+an Oxford reformer, Dr. Newton. But unfortunately Newton's
+endowments were not equal to his ambition, and the first Hertford
+<i>College</i> fell into such decay that finally its buildings were
+transferred to an entirely different foundation, Magdalen Hall.
+Almost immediately afterwards, old Magdalen Hall, which stood close
+to Magdalen College, was burned down, and the society sold their
+site, thus made empty, to their wealthy namesake, and migrated, in
+1822, to what had formerly been Hertford College. Finally, in 1874,
+Magdalen Hall was re-endowed by the head of the great financial
+house of Baring as "Hertford College" once more.</p>
+<p>This college then unites the traditions of two old halls, and of
+its own predecessor, and from all of them it derives some famous
+names. Hart Hall was the home of John Selden, one of the greatest
+of English scholars; Hertford College had an undistinguished
+English prime minister in Henry Pelham, and a most distinguished
+leader of opposition in Charles James Foxe; while Magdalen Hall was
+even more rich in traditions, as being the home of the translator
+of the Bible, William Tyndale, as the centre of Puritan strength in
+the Laudian days, when from its ranks were filled the vacancies all
+over Oxford caused by the expulsions of Royalists, and finally as
+having trained Lord Clarendon, famous as Charles II's minister,
+still more famous as the historian, whose monumental work was one
+of the first endowments of the Oxford Press.</p>
+<p>All these traditions are now concentrated in the one college,
+and, as has been said, the buildings have been greatly extended to
+meet the needs of the new foundation. When Hertford College is
+completed according to the plans already drawn by Sir Thomas
+Jackson, it will reach from All Souls' to Holywell. This last
+northern part of its front has been delayed by the European
+War.</p>
+<p>The new&mdash;or, rather, the revived&mdash;college has, as yet,
+hardly had time to make Oxford history, but the influence of its
+second Principal. Dr. Boyd, whose long reign, happily not yet over,
+began in 1877, has had the result of finding for Oxford new
+benefactors in one of the wealthiest of the London City Companies;
+the Drapers' magnificent gifts of the new Science Library and of
+the Electrical Laboratory are good instances to show that the days
+of the "pious founder" are not yet over.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p24"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p24.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"364" height="489" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The Bridge"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The
+Bridge</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="StEdmundH" id="StEdmundH">ST. EDMUND HALL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Or wander down an ancient street
+ Where mingling ages quaintly meet,
+ Tower and battlement, dome and gable
+ Mellowed by time to a picture sweet."
+                               A. G. BUTLER.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p25"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p25.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="486" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and St. Edmund Hall"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and
+St. Edmund Hall</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The group of buildings, shown in <a href="#p25">Plate XXV</a>,
+is not only picturesque&mdash;it also illustrates Oxford history
+from more than one point of view.</p>
+<p>The apse of the Chapel of Queen's on the left belongs to a
+building already spoken of, which is the most perfect example of a
+small basilican church in Oxford. The church tower in the centre,
+though itself dating from the fourteenth century, is the most
+modern part of one of the oldest churches in Oxford, St. Peter in
+the East. The crypt and the chancel of this church go back to the
+time of the Conquest, and are probably the work of Robert d'Oili,
+to whom William the Conqueror gave the city of Oxford; he was first
+an oppressor and then a benefactor; in the former character, he
+built the castle keep, still standing near the station; in the
+latter, he was the builder, besides St. Peter, of the churches of
+St. Michael and of the Holy Cross; parts of his work survive in all
+three.</p>
+<p>The churchyard, at all events, of St. Peter in the East,
+deserves a visit, lying as it does between the beautiful garden of
+New College and the picturesque buildings of St. Edmund Hall.</p>
+<p>Before this last foundation is spoken of, a word must be said as
+to the road round which these three buildings are
+grouped&mdash;Queen's Lane. It survives, almost unaltered, from
+Pre-Reformation Oxford, and, winding as it does its narrow way
+between high walls, it is an interesting specimen of the "lanes"
+which threaded mediaeval Oxford, a city in which the High Street
+and, to a smaller extent, Cornmarket Street were the only real
+thoroughfares; the rest of the city was a network of narrow
+ways.</p>
+<p>But from the historic point of view, the most interesting part
+of the picture is its right side, where stand the buildings of St.
+Edmund Hall. This is the only survival of the system of residence
+in the earliest University, of the Oxford which knew not the
+college system.</p>
+<p>Before the days of "pious founders," the students had to provide
+their own places of residence, and very early the custom grew up of
+their living together in "halls," sometimes managed by a
+non-academic owner, but often under the superintendence of some
+resident Master of Arts, who was responsible, not for the teaching,
+but, at any rate in part, for the discipline of the inmates of his
+hall. These halls had at first no endowments and no permanent
+existence; they depended for their continuity on the person of
+their head. Gradually they became more organized; but when once the
+college system had been introduced, it tended, by its superior
+wealth and efficiency, to render the "halls" less and less
+important. They lost even the one element of self-government which
+they had once had, the right of their members to elect their own
+Principal; this right was usurped by the Chancellor. Hence, though
+five of the halls were surviving at the time of the University
+Commission (of 1850), all of them but St. Edmund Hall have now
+disappeared.</p>
+<p>In theory, "hall" and "college" have much in common; one
+Cambridge college indeed has retained the name of "hall," and two
+of the women's colleges in Oxford have preferred to keep the old
+style. In practice, their difference lies in the two facts that
+colleges are wealthier, with more endowments, and that they are
+self-governing, with Fellows who co-opt to vacancies in their own
+body and elect their head. St. Edmund Hall has its head appointed
+by the fellows of Queen's, with which institution it has long been
+connected.</p>
+<p>The origin of this hall is an unsolved problem: it derives its
+name according to one theory from Edmund Rich, the last Archbishop
+of Canterbury to be canonized, and probably the first recorded
+Doctor of Divinity at Oxford. But this theory is very doubtful, and
+Hearne, most famous of Oxford antiquarians, and probably the best
+known member of St. Edmund Hall, did not believe it. In any case,
+most of the buildings of the hall date long after St. Edmund, and
+belong to the middle of the seventeenth century. Hearne himself is
+sufficient to give interest to any foundation. He was a great
+scholar and a careful editor of the early English Chroniclers in
+days when learning was decaying in Oxford; even now his work as an
+editor is not altogether superseded. But it is not to this that he
+owes his fame; it is rather to the fact that he has high rank among
+the diarists of England, and the first place among those of Oxford.
+For thirty years (1705-1735) in which latter year he died, he
+poured into his diary everything that interested
+him&mdash;scholarly notes, political rumours, personal scandal,
+remarks on manners and customs. The 150 volumes came into the
+possession of his fellow Jacobite, Richard Rawlinson, the greatest
+of the benefactors of the Bodleian, and only now are they being
+fully edited; ten volumes have been issued by the Oxford Historical
+Society, and still there are a few more years of his life to cover.
+As a specimen of Hearne's style may be quoted his remarks, when the
+sermon on Christmas Day, 1732, was postponed till 11 a.m.</p>
+<p>"The true reason is that people might lie in bed the longer. . .
+. The same reason hath made them, in almost all places in the
+University, alter the times of prayer, and the hour of dinner
+(which used to be 11 o'clock) in almost every place (Christ Church
+must be excepted); which ancient discipline and learning and piety
+strangely decay." Hearne was critical rather of past history than
+of present-day rumour; he records complacently (in 1706) that at
+Whitchurch, when the dissenters had prepared a great quantity of
+bricks "to erect a capacious conventicle, a destroying angel came
+by night and spoyled them all, and confounded their Babel." Hearne
+would by no means have approved of the Methodist principles of six
+members of his hall in the next generation, who were expelled for
+their religious views (1768). A furious controversy, with many
+pamphlets, raged over them, and the Public Orator of the University
+wrote a bulky indictment of them, which was answered by another
+pamphlet with the picturesque title of "Goliath Slain."
+Pamphleteers were more free in their language in those days than
+they are now.</p>
+<p>The hall has always been a strong religious centre, and plays a
+very useful part in the University&mdash;by giving to poor men,
+seeking Holy Orders, a real Oxford education, based on the true
+Oxford principle of community of life.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="IffleyM" id="IffleyM">IFFLEY MILL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Thames, the best loved of all old Ocean's sons,
+ Of his old sire, to his embraces runs . . .
+ Though deep, yet clear, through gentle yet not dull,
+ Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
+                                         SIR J. DENHAM.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p26"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p26.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The subject of <a href="#p26">Plate XXVI</a> is no longer in
+existence; it was burned to the ground some years ago, and has
+never been rebuilt&mdash;for steam has rendered unprofitable the
+old-fashioned water mills such as it was. Yet the very fact that
+Iffley Mill is no more perhaps renders it the more appropriate
+subject for a series of Oxford pictures. It claims a place among
+them, not for its beauty, picturesque though it was, but as a
+symbol of the open-air pursuits of Oxford, which play so large a
+part in the lives of her sons. And as those pursuits are so
+diverse, and cannot all be directly pictured, it is fitting that
+they should be represented by a picture which is a symbol of them
+all, by a picture of something no longer existing, not introduced
+for itself, but suggesting whole fields of varied activity,
+different and yet all akin.</p>
+<p>This may be fanciful, but the part played by open-air sports in
+the life of Oxford is a great reality. Yet, in their present
+organized form, they are a feature of quite, modern times. Fifty
+years ago, football as a college sport in Oxford was only
+beginning; the men are still living, and not octogenarians, who
+introduced their "school games"&mdash;"Rugby," "Eton Wall game,"
+etc.&mdash;at Oxford. Golf was left to Scotchmen, hockey to small
+boys, La Crosse had not yet come from beyond the Atlantic. Cricket
+and rowing were the only organized games, and even in these the
+inter-University contests are comparative novelties; the first boat
+race against Cambridge was rowed in 1829, and it has only been an
+annual fixture since 1856.</p>
+<p>Several results followed from this. In the first place, the very
+sense of the word "sportsman" was different. Now it means a man who
+can play well some, one at least, of the games that all men play;
+then, it had its old meaning of a man who could shoot, or ride, or
+fish, or do all these.</p>
+<p>Again, as cricket is always a game for the few, and as the
+rowing authorities, by the time the summer term begins, had
+selected their chosen followers and left the rest of the world
+free, there was far more walking, and consequently more knowledge
+of the country round the city, than is the rule now. The long
+rambles which play so prominent a part in Oxford biographies, such
+as Stanley's <i>Life of Arnold</i> , were still the fashion, while
+of those who could afford to ride, certainly many more availed
+themselves of the privilege than do now.</p>
+<p>So far as games themselves were concerned, their cost was far
+less. College matches away from Oxford were almost unknown; college
+grounds, which were still quite a new thing in the middle of last
+century, were nearly all concentrated on Cowley Marsh, and the
+somewhat heavy contribution from all undergraduates, now generally
+collected by the college authorities in "battels" and become
+semi-official, was not dreamed of. Those who played paid, and the
+rest of the college got off easily. And games were much more games
+than they are now, and less of institutions; the "professional
+amateur," who comes up with a public school reputation to get his
+"blue," was almost unknown, and certainly, so far as rowing was
+concerned, any powerful man with broad shoulders and a sound heart
+was a likely candidate for the University Boat. The days were not
+dreamed of when the fortunes of Oxford and Cambridge on the river
+depended largely on the choice of a University by members of the
+Eton Eight.</p>
+<p>But there is of course another side to the development of Oxford
+athletics. Perhaps the most important point is that play is the
+greatest social leveller. It is easy to attend the same lectures as
+a man, and even to sit at the same table with him in hall, and not
+to know him well, because his clothes and his accent are not quite
+correct. But in these days when so many games are played, and when
+competition is so keen, any man who can do anything gets his
+chance; and many are the instances every year of men who would
+never have made friends in their colleges outside a small circle,
+had not their quickness as half-backs, or their ability as slow
+bowlers, brought their contemporaries to recognize their merits.
+You cannot play with a man without knowing him, and young Oxford is
+democratic at heart, and when once it knows a man, it does not
+trouble about the non-essentials of wealth and fashion.</p>
+<p>And again, though it may seem a paradox to say it, the amount of
+play in Oxford has increased the amount of work. Organized games
+mean physical fitness, and physical fitness means ability to get
+intellectual work done. Perhaps it may be argued that the
+absorption in athletics deadens all intellectual life, and that
+many Oxford men read only and discuss only the sporting news in the
+papers; this no doubt has a strange fascination, even for men who
+do not play; one of the most distinguished of Oxford statesmen of
+the last generation, himself so blind that he could not hit a ball,
+confessed to me that he always, in the summer, read the cricket
+news in <i>The Times</i> before he read anything else. But he and
+many other Oxford men read something else, too. And it may be
+maintained without question that the hard exercise, which is the
+fashion in Oxford, tends to keep men's bodies healthy and to raise
+the moral tone of the place. Oxford and Cambridge may not be what
+they should be in morals, but they compare very favourably in this
+respect with other towns.</p>
+<p>All this seems a far cry from Iffley Mill; but Iffley means to
+an Oxford man, not so much the picturesque village, nor even its
+gem of a Norman Church that towers above the lock, but the place
+where Eights and Torpids start for the races. And the boating,
+which is so associated with the name of Iffley, is still&mdash;and
+long may it be so&mdash;the queen of Oxford sports. To succeed as
+an oar, a man has to learn to sacrifice the present to the future,
+to scorn delights and live laborious days, to work together with
+others, and to sink his individuality in the common cause. These
+are great qualities, and therefore in any book on Oxford, the
+picture, which recalls them and is their symbol, has a right to a
+place.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h5>Printed in Great Britain.<br>
+ Letterpress by Turnbull &amp; Spears, Edinburgh.<br>
+ Plates engraved and printed by Henry Stone &amp; Son, Ltd.,
+Banbury.</h5>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<a name="pend"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p_end.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"751" height="378" border="3" alt=
+"End Papers : Oxford from the East"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>End Papers : Oxford from the East</b></h4>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
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+</body>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Charm of Oxford
+
+Author: J. Wells
+
+Release Date: August 22, 2004 [EBook #13245]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHARM OF OXFORD ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Philip H Hitchcock
+
+
+
+
+
+About the online edition.
+
+Italics are represented as /italics/.
+
+   THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+           by
+
+      J. WELLS, M.A.
+Warden of Wadham College, Oxford
+
+     Illustrated by
+     W. G. BLACKALL
+
+
+Second Edition (Revised)
+
+SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON
+KENT & CO., LTD., 4 STATIONERS'
+HALL COURT : : LONDON, E.C.4
+
+Copyright
+First published 1920
+Second edition 1921
+
+
+    "'Home of lost causes'--this is Oxford's blame;
+      'Mother of movements'--this, too, boasteth she;
+     In the same walls, the same yet not the same,
+      She welcomes those who lead the age-to-be."
+
+
+    "Much have ye suffered from time's gnawing tooth,
+     Yet, O ye spires of Oxford domes and towers,
+     Gardens and groves, your presence overpowers
+     The soberness of reason."
+                                 WORDSWORTH.
+
+ [Plate 1. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Garden]
+
+
+THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+There are many books on Oxford; the justification for this new one is
+Mr. Blackall's drawings. They will serve by their grace and charm
+pleasantly to recall to those who know Oxford the scenes they love;
+they will incite those who do not know Oxford to remedy that defect
+in their lives.
+
+My own letterpress is only written to accompany the drawings.  It is
+intended to remind Oxford men of the things they know or ought to
+know; it is intended still more to help those who have not visited
+Oxford to understand the drawings and to appreciate some of the
+historical associations of the scenes represented.
+
+I have written quite freely, as this seemed the best way to create
+the "impression" wished. I have to acknowledge some obligations to
+Messrs. Seccombe & Scott's /Praise of Oxford/, a book the pages of
+which an Oxford man can always turn over with pleasure, and to Mr. J.
+B. Firth's /Minstrelsy of Isis/; it is not his fault that the poetic
+merit of so much of his collection is poor. Oxford has not on the
+whole been fortunate in her poets. My own quotations are more often
+chosen for their local colour than for their poetic merit.
+
+I have unavoidably had to borrow a good deal from my own /Oxford and
+its Colleges/, but the aim of the two books is very different.
+
+  WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD,
+      April 1920.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ INTRODUCTION
+ RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+ THE BROAD STREET
+ BALLIOL COLLEGE
+ MERTON COLLEGE
+ MERTON LIBRARY
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+ QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+ NEW COLLEGE: (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+ NEW COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ LINCOLN COLLEGE
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+ CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (3) "TOM" TOWER
+ ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (1) THE BUILDINGS
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ HERTFORD COLLEGE
+ ST. EDMUND HALL
+ IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+     I CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE GARDEN
+    II ST. MARY'S SPIRE
+   III VIEW IN RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+    IV SHELDONIAN THEATRE, ETC., BROAD STREET
+     V BALLIOL COLLEGE, BROAD STREET FRONT
+    VI MERTON COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   VII MERTON COLLEGE, THE LIBRARY INTERIOR
+  VIII ORIEL COLLEGE AND ST. MARY'S CHURCH
+    IX HIGH STREET
+     X NEW COLLEGE, THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY
+    XI NEW COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   XII LINCOLN COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL INTERIOR
+  XIII MAGDALEN TOWER
+   XIV MAGDALEN COLLEGE, THE OPEN AIR PULPIT
+    XV BRASENOSE COLLEGE, QUADRANGLE AND THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY
+   XVI CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, THE FIRST QUADRANGLE
+  XVII CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE MEADOW
+ XVIII CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL STAIRCASE
+   XIX CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL INTERIOR
+    XX CHRIST CHURCH, "TOM" TOWER
+   XXI ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE GARDEN FRONT
+  XXII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL FROM THE GARDEN
+ XXIII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE HALL INTERIOR
+  XXIV HERTFORD COLLEGE, THE BRIDGE
+   XXV ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH AND ST. EDMUND HALL
+  XXVI IFFLEY, THE OLD MILL
+       OXFORD FROM THE EAST [End papers]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+In what does the charm of Oxford consist? Why does she stand out
+among the cities of the world as one of those most deserving a visit?
+It can hardly be said to be for the beauty of her natural
+surroundings. In spite of the charm of her
+
+    "Rivers twain of gentle foot that pass
+     Through the rich meadow-land of long green grass,"
+
+in spite of her trees and gardens, which attract a visitor,
+especially one from the more barren north, Oxford must yield the palm
+of natural beauty to many English towns, not to mention those more
+remote.
+
+But she has every other claim, and first, perhaps, may be mentioned
+that of historic interest.
+
+An Englishman who knows anything of history is not likely to forget
+of how many striking events in the development of his country Oxford
+has been the scene. The element of romance is furnished early in her
+story by the daring escape of the Empress-Queen, Matilda, from Oxford
+Castle. The Provisions of Oxford (1258) were the work of one of the
+most famous Parliaments of the thirteenth century, the century which
+saw the building of the English constitution, and the students of the
+University fought for the cause which those Provisions represented.
+The burning of the martyr bishops in the sixteenth century is one of
+the greatest tragedies in the story of our Church. The seventeenth
+century saw Oxford the capital of Royalist England in the Civil War,
+and though there was no actual fighting there, Charles' night march
+in 1644 from Oxford to the West, between the two enclosing armies of
+Essex and Waller, is one of the most famous military movements ever
+carried out in our comparatively peaceful island. The Parliamentary
+history, too, of Oxford in the seventeenth century is full of
+interest, for it was there that in 1625 Charles' first Parliament met
+in the Divinity School. And fifty years later, his son, Charles II,
+triumphed over the Whig Parliament at Oxford, which was trying by
+factious violence to force the Exclusion Bill on a reluctant king and
+nation. Few towns beside London have been the scene of so many great
+historical events; yet any one who looks below the surface will
+attach less importance to these than to the great changes in thought
+which have found in Oxford their inspiration, and which make it a
+city of pilgrimage for those interested in the development of
+England's real life. Matthew Arnold's famous description, hackneyed
+though it is by quotation, gives one aspect of Oxford, an aspect
+which will appeal to many beside the scholar poet:
+
+"Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the fierce
+intellectual life of our century, so serene!
+
+    'There are our young barbarians, all at play.'
+
+And yet, steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens to
+the moonlight, and whispering' from her towers the last enchantments
+of the Middle Ages, who will deny that Oxford, by her ineffable
+charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of all of us, to
+the ideal, to perfection--to beauty, in a word, which is only truth
+seen from another side?"
+
+But this is not the real intellectual charm of Oxford, which has been
+ever the centre of strenuous life, rather than of dilettante
+dreamings. From the very beginning, she has been a city of
+"Movements." Some visitors, then, will come to Oxford as the home and
+the burial-place of Roger Bacon, representing as he does the
+Franciscan Order, with its Christ-like sympathy for the poor and its
+early attempts to develop the knowledge of Natural Science; Oxford
+was in the thirteenth century the great centre of the Friars'
+movement in England. Others will remember that in the next century it
+produced, in John Wycliffe, the great opponent of the Friars, the man
+who, as the first of the Reformers, is to many the most interesting
+figure in mediaeval English religious history. In the sixteenth
+century, Oxford plays no great part in the actual revolution in the
+English Church; yet it will be a place attractive to many who cherish
+the memory of the "Oxford Reformers," the members of Erasmus' circle
+--John Colet, Thomas More, William Grocyn, and other scholars--who
+hoped by sound learning to amend the Church without violent change.
+Some, on the other hand, will see in the sixteenth-century Oxford,
+the school which trained men for the Counter-Reformation, such as the
+heroic Jesuit, Campion, or Cardinal Alien, the founder of the English
+College at Douai. The Anglican "Via Media" found its special
+representatives in Oxford in Jewel and Hooker, and in Laud, the
+practical genius who carried out its principles in the Church
+administration of his day. It was fitting that the movement for the
+revival of Church teaching in England in the nineteenth century
+should be an Oxford movement, and Newman's pulpit at St. Mary's and
+the chapel of Oriel College are sacred in the eyes of Anglicans all
+over the world. In the interval between Laud and Newman, Church
+principles had found a different development in another Oxford man;
+John Wesley's character and spiritual life were built up in Oxford,
+till he went forth to do the work of an Evangelist during more than
+half of the eighteenth century. Wycliffe, More, Hooker, Laud, Wesley,
+Newman, these are not the names of men who have affected the
+religious history of the world as did Luther, Calvin or Ignatius
+Loyola; but they have affected profoundly the religious life of the
+English-speaking race, and Oxford must ever be a sacred place for
+their sakes.
+
+And Oxford has been the starting-point of other than religious
+movements. No place in England has such a claim on the Englishmen of
+the New World as has Oxford. It was there that Richard Hakluyt taught
+geography, and collected in part his wonderful store of the tales of
+enterprise beyond the sea. Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his half-brother,
+Sir Walter Raleigh, both Oxford men, were the founders of English
+colonization. By their failures they showed the way to success later,
+and Calvert in Maryland, Penn in Pennsylvania, John Locke in the
+Carolinas, and Oglethorpe in Georgia are all Oxford men who rank as
+founders of States in the great Union of the West. And in our own
+day, Cecil Rhodes has once more proved that the academic dreamer can
+go out and advance the development of a great continent. By his
+magnificent foundation of scholarships at Oxford, he showed that he
+considered his old university a formative influence of the greatest
+importance in world history. Oxford with reason puts up one tablet to
+mark his lodgings in the city, and another to commemorate him in her
+stately Examination Schools.
+
+ [Plate II, St. Mary's Spire]
+
+But there are many to whom the past, whether in the realm of action
+or in the realm of ideas, does not appeal, whether it be from lack of
+knowledge or from lack of sympathy. To some of these Oxford makes a
+different appeal as perhaps the best place in England for studying
+the development of English architecture. The early Norman work of the
+Castle and St. Michael's, the Transition work of the cathedral, the
+very early lancet windows of St. Giles' Church (consecrated by the
+great St. Hugh of Lincoln himself), the Decorated Style as seen in
+St. Mary's spire and in Merton chapel, the glories of the specially
+English style, the Perpendicular, in Wykeham's work at New College
+and in Magdalen Tower, the Tudor magnificence of Wolsey's work at
+Christ Church, the last flower of Gothic at Wadham and at St. John's,
+the triumph of Wren's genius, alike in the classical style at the
+Sheldonian and in "Gothic" as in Tom Tower, the Classical work of
+Hawkesmore at Queen's and of Gibbs in the Radcliffe, the wonderful
+beauty of Mr. Bodley's modern Gothic in St. Swithun's Quad at
+Magdalen, and the skilful adaptation of old English tradition to
+modern needs by Sir Thomas Jackson at Trinity and at Hertford--what
+other city can show such a series of architectural beauties? And it
+must not be forgotten that Oxford disputes with York the honour of
+having the most representative sequence of painted glass windows in
+England. Oxford, indeed, is a paradise for the student of Art.
+Nowhere, except at Cambridge, can the series of architectural works
+be paralleled, and at both universities the charm of their ancient
+buildings is enhanced by their beautiful setting in college gardens.
+
+It is not an accident that in the old universities more than anywhere
+else, so much of beauty has survived, nor is it to be put down as a
+happy piece of academic conservatism. It is rather the natural result
+of their constitution and endowment. What has been so fatal to the
+beauty of old England elsewhere has been material prosperity. The
+buildings inherited from the past had to go, at least so it was
+thought, because they were not suited to modern methods, or because
+the site they occupied was worth so much more for other purposes. But
+the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge could not carry on their work on
+different sites; "residence" was an essential of academic
+arrangements; and there was no temptation to the fellows of a college
+to make money by parting with their old buildings, for their incomes
+were determined by Statute, and any great increase of wealth would
+not advantage individual fellows. Hence, while great nobles and great
+merchants sold their splendid houses and grounds, and grew rich on
+the unearned increment, and while non-residential universities moved
+bodily from their old positions to new and more fashionable quarters,
+Oxford and Cambridge colleges went on working and living in the same
+places. Much the same reasons have preserved, in many old towns,
+picturesque alms-houses, to show the modern world how beautiful
+buildings once could be, while all around them reigns opulent
+ugliness. Certain it is that only in one instance, in recent times,
+has an Oxford college contemplated selling its old site and buildings
+and migrating to North Oxford, and then the sacrilegious attempt was
+outvoted. Hence, as has been said, the two old English Universities
+possess in an unique degree the
+
+    "Strange enchantments of the past
+     And memories of the days of old."
+
+The charms of Oxford for the historical student and for the lover of
+Art have been spoken of. But a large part of the world comes under
+neither head; to it the charm of Oxford consists in the young lives
+that are continually passing through it. Oxford and Cambridge present
+ever attractive contrasts between their young students and their old
+buildings, between the first enthusiasm of ever new generations, and
+customs and rules which date back to mediaeval times.
+
+But apart from the charm of contrast, Oxford has everything to make
+life attractive for young men. It is true that the old buildings
+combine with a dignity a millionaire could not surpass a standard of
+material comfort which in some respects is below that of an up-to-
+date workhouse. An amusing instance has occurred of this during the
+war. The students of one of the women's colleges, expelled from their
+own modern buildings, which had been turned into a hospital, became
+tenants of half of one of the oldest colleges. It was very romantic
+thus to gain admission to the real Oxford, but the students soon
+found that it was very uncomfortable to have their baths in an out-
+of-the-way corner of the college. And baths themselves are but a
+modern institution at Oxford; at one or two colleges still the old
+"tub in one's room" is the only system of washing. Perhaps this
+instance may be thought frivolous, but it is typical of Oxford, which
+has been described, with some exaggeration in both words, as a home
+of "barbaric luxury."
+
+But after all, comfort in the material sense is the least important
+element in completeness of life. Oxford has everything else, except,
+it is true, a bracing climate. She has society of every kind, in
+which a man ranks on his merits, not on his possessions; he is valued
+for what he is, not for what he has; she gives freedom to her sons to
+live their own life, with just sufficient restraint to add piquancy
+to freedom, and to restrain those excesses which are fatal to it; she
+has intellectual interests and traditions, which often really affect
+men who seem indifferent to them; life in her, as a rule, is not
+troubled by financial cares--for her young men, most of them, either
+through old endowments or from family circumstances, have for the
+moment enough of this world's goods. In view of all this, and much
+more, is it not natural that Oxford has a charm for her sons? And
+this is enhanced with many by all the force of hereditary tradition;
+the young man is at his college because his father was there before
+him; the pleasure of each generation is increased by the reflection
+of the other's pleasure. What traditional feeling in Oxford means
+may, perhaps, be illustrated by the story of an old English worthy,
+though one only of the second rank. Jonathan Trelawney, one of the
+Seven Bishops who defied James II, was a stout Whig, but when it was
+proposed to punish Oxford for her devotion to the Pretender, the
+Government found they could not reckon on his vote, though he was
+usually a safe party man. "I must be excused from giving my vote for
+altering the methods of election into Christ Church, where I had my
+bread for twenty years. I would rather see my son a link boy than a
+student of Christ Church in such a manner as tears up by the roots
+that constitution."
+
+But the days of hereditary tradition are over, and Trelawney belongs
+to an age long past; Oxford now is exposed to an influence compared
+to which the arbitrary proceedings of a king are feeble. A democratic
+Parliament with a growing Labour party has far more power to change
+Oxford than the Stuarts ever had, and even at this moment (1919) a
+third Royal Commission is beginning to sit. Will it modify, will it--
+transform Oxford?
+
+The first answer seems to be that the very stones of Oxford are
+charged with her traditions. During the War the colleges have been
+full of officer-cadets; they were men of all ranks of life and of
+every kind of education; they came from all parts of the world; they
+were of all ages, from eighteen to forty, at least. Their training
+was a strenuous one by strict rule, a complete contrast to the free
+and easy life of academic Oxford. Yet in their few months of
+residence, most of them became imbued with the college spirit; they
+considered themselves members of the place they lived in; they tried
+to do most of the things undergraduates do. If Oxford thus, to some
+extent, moulded to her pattern men who, welcome as they were, were
+only accidental, surely the college spirit may be trusted to
+assimilate whatever material the changed conditions of social or of
+political life furnish to it. The hope of many at Oxford is that
+there will be a great development and a great change. On one side it
+will be good if Oxford becomes to a much greater extent not only an
+all-British, but also a world university; on another side it is to be
+hoped that far more than ever before men of all classes in England
+will come to Oxford. It would surprise many of the University's
+critics to find how much had already been done in these directions.
+It is certainly not true now that, as one of Oxford's critics wrote,
+
+    "Too long, too long men saw thee sit apart
+     From all the living pulses of the hour."
+
+On the contrary, the Oxford of the last generation has already become
+markedly more cosmopolitan, and she has been drawing to her an ever-
+increasing number of able men of every class.
+
+But these developments, thus begun, will certainly be carried much
+further in the near future. Oxford will be altered. Some of her
+customs will be changed. This may well issue in great and lasting
+good, though there will be loss as well as gain. But an Oxford man
+may be pardoned if he believes and hopes that his university will
+remain the university he has loved. There is a saying current in
+Oxford about Oxford men, which may not be out of place here--"If you
+meet a stranger, and if after a time you say to him, 'I think you
+were at Oxford,' he accepts it, as a matter of course, and is
+pleased. If you do the same to a Cambridge man, he indignantly
+replies, 'How do you know that?'" No doubt the saying is turned the
+other way round at Cambridge, and no doubt it is equally true and
+equally false of both universities, i.e. it is positively true and
+negatively false, like so many other statements. But it is positively
+true; the Oxford man is proud of having been at Oxford; the past and
+the present alike, his political and his religious beliefs, his
+traditions and his social surroundings, all endear Oxford to him. May
+it ever be so.
+
+
+
+
+RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+
+
+     "Like to a queen in pride of place, she wears
+      The splendour of a crown in Radcliffe's dome."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square]
+
+The visitor to Oxford often asks--"Where is the University?" The
+proper answer is: "The University is everywhere," for the colleges
+are all parts of it. But if a distinction must be made, and some
+buildings must be shown which are especially "University Buildings,"
+then it is undoubtedly in the Square, of which this picture shows one
+side, that they must be found. Immediately on the right is the
+Bodleian Library, the domed building in the centre is the Radcliffe
+Library, and in the background rises the spire of St. Mary's. Of this
+last building the tower and spire go back nearly to the beginnings of
+Oxford; they date from the time of Edward I; but for a century, at
+least, before they were erected, the students of Oxford had met for
+worship and for business in the earlier church, which stood on the
+site of the present St. Mary's.
+
+The Bodleian Library occupies the old Examination Schools, which were
+built, in the reign of James I, for the reformed University of
+Archbishop Laud; within the memory of men who do not count themselves
+old, the university examinations were still held in this building.
+Finally, the shapely dome between the Bodleian and St. Mary's is the
+work of James Gibbs, the greatest English architect of the eighteenth
+century, to whom Cambridge owes its Senate House, and London the
+noble church of St. Martin's in the Fields. The dome was built for a
+separate library, the foundation of Dr. John Radcliffe, Queen Anne's
+physician, the most munificent of Oxford benefactors; it is still
+managed by his trustees, a body independent of the University, but
+since 1861 they have lent it to the Bodleian Library for a reading-
+room. It is fitting that the oldest public library in the modern
+world, a title the Bodleian can proudly claim, should have the finest
+reading-room, where 400 students can have each his separate desk, and
+where, if so minded and so physically enduring, they can put in
+twelve hours' work in a day. No other great library in Europe allows
+such privileges.
+
+Round these three University buildings are grouped three colleges:
+Hertford, the youngest of Oxford foundations, the re-creation of an
+old hall by a Victorian financial magnate. Sir Thomas Baring; All
+Souls', standing a little beyond, of which the part here shown is the
+corner of the great Law Library, founded by Sir William Codrington in
+the days of good Queen Anne; while on the other side of the Radcliffe
+is Brasenose College (for pictures of which see Plates II and XV). No
+non-academic building fronts on the Square; the one or two houses
+facing on the south-west corner are occupied by college tutors. The
+academic influence has spread even under the earth, for between the
+Bodleian and the Radcliffe there is a great subterranean chamber of
+two stories, excavated 1909-1910, which, when full, will contain
+1,000,000 books.
+
+It is refreshing to turn from the thought of so much dead industry,
+as these multitudes of unread books will represent, to the
+inspiration of the buildings. They are the very epitome of Oxford.
+The classic symmetry of Gibbs' dome looks across at the soaring spire
+of the mediaeval University Church, while the Bodleian is one of the
+best examples of the Jacobean Gothic, which still held its own in
+Oxford when the classical style was triumphing elsewhere. Such
+contrasts are typical of Oxford. The University had a European
+reputation in the days when it was one of the two great centres of
+mediaeval scholasticism. Roger Bacon, the most famous name in
+mediaeval science, no doubt saw the tower of St. Mary's beginning to
+rise. The University welcomed the Classical Revival, it survived the
+storms of the Reformation, it was the great centre of the building up
+of Anglican theology under the Laudian rule, it was one of the
+inspirations of English science in the seventeenth century, though
+Dr. Radcliffe's generous benefactions are a little later, and have
+hardly begun to yield their full fruit till our own day. Such are the
+learned traditions of the Radcliffe Square, while it has also been
+the centre of the young lives which, for seven centuries at least,
+have enjoyed their happiest years in Oxford.
+
+The view from the Radcliffe roof is undoubtedly the best in Oxford.
+It has been thus described by the worst of the many poets who have
+celebrated the University:
+
+    "Spire, tower and steeple, roofs of radiant tile,
+     The costly temple and collegiate pile,
+     In sumptuous mass of mingled form and hue,
+     Await the wonder of thy sateless view."
+
+But Robert Montgomery is more likely to be remembered for Macaulay's
+merciless but well-deserved chastisement than for his praises of
+Oxford. Even their utter bathos cannot degrade a group of buildings
+so wonderful.
+
+
+
+
+THE BROAD STREET
+
+    "Ye mossy piles of old munificence,
+     At once the pride of learning and defence."
+                   J. WARTON, /Triumph of Isis/
+
+The east side of the University buildings proper was shown in the
+last picture (Plate III); in the following (Plate IV), the north side
+of the same block is seen. The old University "schools" lay just
+inside the city wall, and Broad Street, which is there represented,
+occupies the site of the ditch, which ran on the north of the wall.
+This picture is a fitting supplement to the last, for the Sheldonian
+Theatre on the right of it and the Clarendon Building in the
+background may claim rank even with the Bodleian and the Radcliffe as
+the University's special buildings.
+
+The Sheldonian celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
+only last year (1919), when the music which had been performed at its
+opening was performed once more. It is a building interesting from
+many points of view. Architecturally it marks the first complete
+flowering of the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He was only thirty-
+seven when it was completed, and had been previously known rather as
+a man of science than as an architect; he was Oxford's Professor of
+Astronomy; but Archbishop Sheldon chose him to build a worthy meeting
+place for his University, even as at the same time he was being
+called by the king to prepare plans for rebuilding London after the
+Great Fire.
+
+The very existence of the Sheldonian marks the development of
+University ideas. The simple piety--or was it the worldliness?--of
+Pre-Reformation Oxford had seen nothing unsuitable in the ceremonies
+of graduate Oxford and the ribaldries of undergraduate Oxford taking
+place in the consecrated building of St. Mary's; but the more sober
+genius of Anglicanism was shocked at these secular intrusions, and
+Sheldon provided his University with a worthy home, where its great
+functions have been performed ever since.
+
+The building is a triumph of construction; it is doubtful if so large
+an unsupported roof can be found elsewhere; but Wren is not to be
+held responsible for the outside ugly flat roof, which was put on 100
+years ago, because it was said, quite falsely, that Wren's roof was
+unsafe. That architect had set himself the problem of getting the
+greatest number of people into the space at his disposal, and he
+managed to fit in a building that will hold 1,500. It was also
+intended for the Printing Press of the University, but was only used
+in that way for a short time, as in 1713 Sir John Vanbrugh put up the
+Clarendon Building, to house this department of University activity.
+The "heaviness" of Vanbrugh's buildings was a jest even in his own
+time; someone wrote as an epitaph for him
+
+    "Lie heavy on him. Earth, for he
+     Laid many a heavy load on thee."
+
+Blenheim Palace, his greatest work, is indeed a "heavy load." But the
+same criticism can hardly be brought against the columned portico,
+which forms a fine ending for the Broad Street. Vanbrugh's building
+was superseded in its turn, when the increasing business of the
+Oxford Printing Press was moved to the present building in 1830.
+
+ [Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad Street]
+
+Since then, all kinds of University business have been carried on in
+the old Printing Press. The University Registrar and the University
+Treasurer (his style is "Secretary of the University Chest") have
+their offices there; the Proctors exercise discipline from there; the
+various University delegacies and committees meet there. And another
+side of Oxford life, not yet (in January 1920) fully recognized as
+belonging to the University, has found a home there; the top floor
+has been for twenty years past the centre of women's education in
+Oxford, a position elevated indeed, for it is up more than fifty
+stairs, but commodious and dignified when reached at last.
+
+Perhaps the Clarendon Building has gained in lightness of effect by
+being contrasted with the clumsy mass of the Indian Institute, which
+forms the background of our picture. The nineteenth century proudly
+criticized the taste of the eighteenth; but it may well be doubted if
+any building in Oxford of the earlier and much-abused century is more
+inartistic and inappropriate than "Jumbo's Joss House," which used to
+rouse the scorn and anger of the late Professor of History, Edward A.
+Freeman.
+
+No Oxford colleges are in this picture, though a small part of
+Exeter, one of Sir Gilbert Scott's least happy erections in Oxford,
+appears on the right, and a little piece of Trinity on the left; the
+last-named is the college of Professor Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch,
+better known as "Q," one of the most delightful of Oxford's minor
+poets. The opening lines of his poem, "Alma Mater,"
+
+    "Know ye her secret none can utter,
+       Hers of the book, the tripled crown?
+     Still on the spire the pigeons flutter,
+       Still by the gateway flits the gown,
+     Still in the street from corbel and gutter
+       Faces of stone look down,"
+
+may well have been inspired by this very scene in the Broad, for the
+grim faces of stone that surround the Sheldonian are one of the
+features and the puzzles of Oxford. Are they the Roman Emperors, or
+the Greek Philosophers, or neither? It does not matter, for they are
+unlike anything in heaven or in earth, and yet they are loved by all
+true Oxford men for their uncompromising ugliness, which has been
+familiar to so many generations.
+
+
+
+BALLIOL COLLEGE
+
+    "For the house of Balliol is builded ever
+     By all the labours of all her sons,
+     And the great deed wrought and the grand endeavour
+     Will be hers as long as the Isis runs."
+                                             F. S. BOAS
+
+The story is told of the old Greek admirals, after their victory at
+Salamis over the Persian king, that, when invited to name the two
+most deserving commanders, they each put their own name first, and
+then one and all put the Athenian Themistocles second. If a vote, on
+these principles, were taken in Oxford as to which was the best
+college, there is little doubt that Balliol would secure most of the
+second votes.
+
+It is one of the three oldest colleges, and actually has been in
+occupation of its present site longer than any other of our Oxford
+foundations--for more than six centuries and a half. Yet its
+greatness is but a thing of yesterday compared to the antiquity of
+Oxford, and it is fitting that a college which has come to the front
+in the nineteenth century should be mainly housed in nineteenth
+century buildings.
+
+Balliol has indeed ceased to be the "most satisfactory pile and range
+of old lowered and gabled edifices," which Nathaniel Hawthorne saw in
+the "fifties" of the last century. The painful imitation of a French
+chateau, the work of Sir Alfred Waterhouse, which forms the main part
+of our picture, was put up about 1868 (mainly by the munificence of
+Miss Hannah Brackenbury), and only the old hall and the library,
+which lie behind, remain of Pre-Reformation Balliol.
+
+In the background of our picture (Plate V) can be seen the Fisher
+Building, known to all Balliol men for the still existing
+inscription, "Verbum non amplius Fisher," which tradition says was
+put up at the dying request of the eighteenth-century benefactor.
+
+While it is true that the pre-eminence of Balliol is a growth of the
+nineteenth century, yet the college can count among its worthies one
+of the greatest names in English mediaeval history, that of John
+Wycliffe. He was probably a scholar of Balliol, and certainly Master
+for some years about 1360. But he left the college for a country
+living, and his time at Balliol is not associated with either of his
+most important works--his translation of the Bible or his order of
+"Poor Preachers." While at Balliol, he was rather "the last of the
+Schoolmen" than "the first of the Reformers."
+
+The modern greatness of Balliol is due to the fact that the college
+awoke more rapidly from the sleep of the eighteenth century than most
+of Oxford, and as early as 1828 threw open its scholarships to free
+competition. Hence even as early as the time of Dr. Arnold at Rugby,
+a "Balliol scholarship" had become "the blue riband of public-school
+education." It has now passed into popular phraseology to such an
+extent that lady novelists, unversed in academic niceties, confer a
+"Balliol scholarship" on their heroes, even when entering Cambridge.
+
+Balliol has known how to take full advantage of its opportunity.
+Governed by a series of eminent masters, especially Dr. Scott of
+Greek dictionary fame, and Professor Jowett, the translator of Plato
+and the hero of more Oxford stories than any other man, it has been
+ready to adapt itself to every new movement. While the governing
+bodies of other colleges in the middle of the last century were too
+often looking only to raising their own fellowships to the highest
+possible point, the Balliol dons were denying their own pockets to
+enrich and strengthen their college.
+
+Hence, undoubtedly, Balliol for a long time past has had a lion's
+share of Oxford's great men; two Archbishops of Canterbury, Tait and
+Temple, the present Archbishop of York, Cardinal Manning, a Prime
+Minister in Mr. Asquith, a Speaker in Lord. Peel, two Viceroys of
+India in Lord Lansdowne and Lord Curzon, poets like Clough, Matthew
+Arnold and Swinburne, these are only some of the more outstanding
+names. It is this which makes Balliol Hall so particularly
+interesting to the ordinary man; knowledge of present-day affairs,
+not of history, is all that is needed to appreciate its array of
+portraits.
+
+Nor has Balliol been unmindful of the social movements of our time.
+It is the chosen home of the Workers' Educational Association in
+Oxford, and in Arnold Toynbee it produced one of the pioneers and
+martyrs of modern social progress. Truly Balliol has much more to
+show to the visitor than its ultra-modern front on the Broad would
+promise.
+
+The street, on which Balliol looks out, is associated with the most
+famous scene of Oxford history; the stone with a cross in the middle
+of the road marks the traditional site of the burning of the bishops,
+Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, although their memorial has been
+erected 200 yards further north in St. Giles', and though
+antiquarians argue (probably correctly) that the actual pyre was a
+little further south, in fact, behind the present row of Broad Street
+houses.
+
+But it is the living activity of the college, not the sad memories of
+the street in front, that gives the interest to the picture. The
+intellectual life of the Balliol men has been well described by
+Professor J. C. Shairp, whose verses on "Balliol Scholars" are likely
+to be remembered by Oxford in long days to come for their
+associations, if not for their poetic merits. He describes what a
+privilege it is "to have passed," with men who became famous
+afterwards,
+
+          "The threshold of young life,
+     Where the man meets, not yet absorbs, the boy,
+     And ere descending to the dusky strife,
+     Gazed from clear heights of intellectual joy
+     That an undying image left enshrined."
+
+ This will come home to many, as they think on their happy Oxford
+days when they had life all before them, even though their
+contemporaries have not become archbishops like Temple or poets like
+Matthew Arnold.
+
+ [Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street Front]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON COLLEGE
+
+
+    "I passed beside the reverend walls
+     In which of old I wore the gown."
+                           TENNYSON.
+
+
+ [Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower]
+
+Merton is not only the oldest college in Oxford, it is also, as is
+claimed on the monument of the founder, Walter de Merton, in his
+Cathedral of Rochester, the model of "omnium quotquot extant
+collegiorum." Peterhouse, the first college at Cambridge, which was
+founded (1281) seven years later than Merton, had its statutes
+avowedly copied from those of its Oxford predecessor.
+
+So important a new departure in education calls for special notice.
+It is interesting to see how the English college system grew out of
+the long rivalry between the Regular and the Secular clergy which was
+so prominent in the mediaeval church. The Secular clergy, who had in
+their ranks all the "professional men" of the day, civil servants,
+architects, physicians, as well as, those devoted to religious
+matters in the strict sense, were always jealous of the monks and the
+friars, who, living by a "rule" in their communities, were much less
+in sympathy with English national feelings than the Seculars, who
+lived among the laity. Hence the growing influence of the Regular
+Orders, especially of the Franciscans and the Dominicans, in
+thirteenth-century Oxford, excited the alarm of a far-seeing prelate
+like Walter de Merton. There was a real danger that the most
+prominent and best of the students might be drawn into the great new
+communities, which were rapidly adding to their learning and their
+piety the further attractions of great buildings and splendid
+ceremonial.
+
+The founder of Merton had the same purpose as the founder of the
+College of the Sorbonne at Paris, a slightly earlier institution
+(1257). He intended that his college should rival the houses of the
+Dominicans and the Franciscans. These friaries were in the southern
+part of Oxford, and have completely perished, leaving behind only the
+names of two or three mean streets; but the college system which
+Walter de Merton founded has grown with the growth of Oxford and of
+England, and is to-day as vigorous and as useful as ever.
+
+Walter de Merton provided his fellows with noble buildings, at once
+for their common life and for their own private accommodation, and
+also with endowments sufficient to enable them to live in comfort,
+free from anxiety; most important of all, he gave them powers of
+self-government, so that they might recruit their own numbers and
+carry out for themselves the objects prescribed by him in his
+Statutes.
+
+In this great foundation then the three characteristic features of a
+college are found--a common life, powers of self-government, with the
+right of choosing future members, and endowments that enable religion
+and learning to flourish, free from more pressing cares. It is these
+features which distinguish the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and
+which have determined their history.
+
+Walter de Merton definitely prescribed that none of the fellows who
+benefited by his foundation should be monks or friars; to take the
+vows involved forfeiture of a fellowship. He also especially urged on
+the members of his society that, when any of them rose to "ampler
+fortune" /(uberior fortuna)/, they should not forget their /alma
+mater/.
+
+The founder died in 1277, so that none of the college buildings were
+complete in his time, except perhaps the treasury, which, with its
+high-pitched roof of stone, lies in the opposite corner of the Mob
+Quad to that shown in our picture. Why the Quad is called "The Mob
+Quad," nobody knows. As was fitting, the chapel was the first part of
+the college to be finished--about 1300--and it is a splendid specimen
+of early Geometrical Gothic; it retains a little of the old glass,
+given by one of the early fellows.
+
+The north side of the Mob Quad, which is shown in our picture, is
+very little later than the Chapel, and the whole of the Quad was
+finished before 1400; the rooms in it have been the homes of Oxford
+men for more than five centuries. It is sad to think that so unique a
+building was almost destroyed in the middle of the nineteenth
+century, by the zeal of "reformers"; it was actually condemned to be
+pulled down, to make way for modern buildings, but, fortunately,
+there was an irregularity in the voting. Mr. G. C. Brodrick, then a
+young fellow, later the Warden of the college, insisted on the matter
+being discussed again at a later meeting, and at this the Mob Quad
+was saved by a narrow majority. "He will go to Heaven for it," as
+Corporal Trim said of the English Guards, who saved his broken
+regiment at Steinkirk.
+
+The "reformers" of Merton had to be content with cutting down their
+beautiful "Grove" and spoiling the finest view in Oxford by erecting
+the ugliest building which Mid-Victorian taste inflicted on the
+University.
+
+In the old buildings which so narrowly escaped destruction may have
+lived John Wycliffe, who is claimed as a fellow of Merton in an
+almost contemporary list; his activity in Oxford belongs rather to
+the later time, when he was Master of Balliol. His is one of the
+outstanding names in English history; the success of Merton in
+producing great men of a more ordinary kind can be judged from the
+fact that between 1294 and 1366 six out of the seven Archbishops of
+Canterbury were Merton men.
+
+In the great period of the seventeenth century, Merton had the
+distinction of being one of the few colleges which were
+Parliamentarian in sympathy. Hence the Warden was deposed by King
+Charles, who installed in his place a really great man, William
+Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood. But the king
+did more harm than good to the college; it was turned into lodgings
+for Queen Henrietta Maria and her court, and ladies were intruded and
+children born within college walls. These proceedings were
+respectable, though unusual; but the college was even more humiliated
+by the visit of Charles II, who installed there, among other court
+ladies, the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The college, however,
+with the Revolution, returned to less courtly views, and its Whig
+connection found an honourable representative in Richard Steele, the
+founder of the /Tatler/. It is not surprising that so cheerful a
+gentleman left Oxford without a degree, but "with the love of the
+whole society." The college register specially notes his gift of his
+/Tatler/; he was acting on the sound rule, by no means so universally
+followed as it ought to be, that Oxford authors should present their
+books to their college library.
+
+Merton, as has been said, is the "type" college, if one may thus
+apply a scientific term; hence it is fitting that to it belong the
+two men to whom perhaps Oxford owes most. Thomas Bodley was a fellow
+and lecturer in Greek there, before he left Oxford for diplomacy, and
+accumulated that wealth which he used to endow the oldest and the
+most fascinating, if not the largest, of British libraries. And among
+the men who have gained from "the rare books in the public library" a
+way to a "perfect elysium," none better deserves remembrance than the
+Mertonian, Antony Wood, whose monument stands in Merton Chapel, but
+who has raised /monumentum aere perennius/ to himself, in his
+/History of the University of Oxford/ and his /Athenae Oxonienses/.
+
+ [Plate VII. Merton College : The Library Interior]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON LIBRARY
+
+
+    "Hail, tree of knowledge! thy leaves fruit; which well
+     Dost in the midst of Paradise arise,
+             Oxford, the Muses' paradise,
+     From which may never sword the blest expel.
+     Hail, bank of all past ages! where they lie
+ To enrich, with interest, posterity."
+                                               COWLEY.
+
+"The appearance of the library" (at Merton), says the great Cambridge
+scholar, J. Willis Clark, in his /Care of Books/, "is so venerable,
+so unlike any similar room with which I am acquainted, that it must
+always command admiration."
+
+He classes it with the libraries at Oxford of Corpus, St. John's,
+Jesus, and Magdalen, and he regretfully adds that no college library
+in his own University has retained the same old features as these
+have done. But none of the four can compare with Merton, either in
+antiquarian interest or in picturesqueness; it stands in a class by
+itself.
+
+The Library was built by the munificence of Bishop Reed of Chichester
+between 1377 and 1379; the dormer windows, however (seen in Plate
+VII), are later in date. The bookcases in the larger room were made
+in 1623; one of the original half cases, however, was spared, that
+nearest to the entrance on the north side, and this is the most
+interesting single feature in the whole library. It need hardly be
+said that the reading-desk in early times was actually attached to
+the bookcase; the library then was a place to read in, not one from
+which books were taken to be read. The books were to be kept "in some
+common and secure place," and they were "chained in the library
+chamber for the common use of the fellows" (J. W. Clark).
+
+The old case that has been retained still has its chained books, and
+traces of the arrangement for chains can be seen in the other cases.
+Merton was one of the last libraries in Oxford to keep its books in
+chains; these were only removed in 1792; in the Bodleian the work had
+been begun a generation earlier (in 1757).
+
+Not all books, however, were chained; by special arrangements in old
+college statutes, some of them were allowed out to the fellows. The
+register of Merton contains interesting entries as to how the books
+were distributed, e.g. on August 26, 1500, "choice was made of the
+books on philosophy; it was found there were in all 349 books, which
+were then distributed." This was a large number: at King's,
+Cambridge, less than half a century before, there were only 174 books
+on all subjects, and in the Cambridge University Library in 1473,
+only 330.
+
+If a book was borrowed, great precautions were taken; the Warden of
+Merton in 1498 had to obtain the leave of the college to take out a
+book which he wanted; then, "in the presence of the four seniors," he
+received his book, depositing two volumes of St. Jerome's
+Commentaries as pledges for its safe return. A similar ceremony, with
+a similar entry in the register, marked the replacement of the book
+in the library. Though printing was already beginning to multiply
+books, yet then, and for long after, a book was a most valuable
+possession. The features of these venerable tomes are well described
+by Crabbe:
+
+    "That weight of wood, with leathern coat o'erlaid,
+     Those ample clasps, of solid metal made,
+     The close pressed leaves, unclosed for many an age,
+     The dull red edging of the well-filled page,
+     On the broad back the stubborn ridges rolled,
+     Where yet the title shines in tarnished gold,
+     These all a sage and laboured work proclaim,
+     A painful candidate for lasting fame."
+
+Such books are numbered by hundreds in every college library, and it
+is only too true of them that:
+
+    "Hence in these times, untouched the pages lie
+     And slumber out their immortality."
+
+The reception of such a book in a library was an event, and the
+record of one gift occupies six whole lines in the Merton Register;
+its donors are named as "two venerable men," and the entry sweetly
+concludes, "Let us, therefore, pray for them."
+
+The library, problem, acute everywhere, is perhaps especially so in a
+college library. How can it keep pace with the multiplicity of
+studies? How should it deal with books indispensable for a short
+time, perhaps for one generation, and then superseded? Even apart
+from the question of the cost of purchase, the amount of space
+available is small, considering modern needs. These problems and such
+as these have not yet been solved by college librarians; but the
+college library, quite apart from the books in it, is an education in
+itself. The old days of neglect are past, the days reflected in the
+scandalous story--told of more than one college--about the old fellow
+who was missing for two months, and, after being searched for high
+and low, was found hanging dead in the college library. Now the
+libraries everywhere are being used continually, and men can realize
+in them, perhaps better than anywhere else, how great the past of
+Oxford has been, and can form some idea of the labours of forgotten
+generations, which have made the University what it was and what it
+is.
+
+Every library has its treasures, to show the present generation how
+beautiful an old book can be which was produced in days when its
+production was not a mere publisher's speculation, but the work of a
+scholar seeking to promote knowledge and advance the cause of Truth.
+And it does not require much imagination for a student, in a building
+like Merton Library, to conjure up the picture of his mediaeval
+predecessor, sitting on his hard wooden bench, with his chained MSS.
+volume on the shelf above, and poring over the crabbed pages in the
+unwarmed, half-lighted chamber. If the picture brings with it the
+thought of the transitoriness of human endeavour, and if the words of
+the Teacher seem doubly true, "Of making of books there is no end,
+and much study is a weariness of the flesh," yet in the fresh life of
+young Oxford, such reflections are only salutary; pessimism, despair
+of humanity, are not vices likely to flourish among undergraduates in
+the healthy society of modern colleges.
+
+Those only, it might be said, can properly reform the present who
+understand the past, and it is perhaps the spirit of the Merton
+Library, at once old and new, which has inspired the statesmen whom
+Merton has sent to take part in the government of Britain during the
+last half-century. Lord Randolph Churchill, the founder of Tory
+democracy, his present-day successor in the same role, Lord
+Birkenhead, and the ever young Lord Halsbury are men of the type
+which Walter de Merton wished to train, "for the service of God in
+Church and State," men who champion the existing order, but who are
+willing to develop and improve it on the old lines.
+
+
+
+
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Here at each coign of every antique street
+     A memory hath taken root in stone,
+     Here Raleigh shone."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's Church]
+
+It is a curious coincidence that three of the most troubled reigns of
+English history have been marked by double college foundations in
+Oxford. That of Henry VI, in spite of constant civil war, threatening
+or actual, saw the beginnings of All Souls' and of Magdalen; the
+short and sad reign of Mary Tudor restored to Oxford Trinity and St.
+John's; and in an earlier century the ministers of Edward II, the
+most unroyal of our Plantagenet kings, gave to Oxford Exeter and
+Oriel. The king himself was graciously pleased to accept the honour
+of the latter foundation, and his statue adorns the College Quad,
+along with that of Charles I, in whose day the whole College was
+rebuilt. The front may be compared architecturally with those of
+Wadham and of University, which date from about the same period (the
+first part of the seventeenth century), when, under the fostering
+care of Archbishop Laud, Oxford increased greatly in numbers, in
+learning, and in buildings. Though Oriel has neither the bold sweep
+of University nor the perfect proportions of Wadham, it yet is a
+pleasing building, at least in its front.
+
+Like New College, Oriel is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and, also
+like New College, the name of "St. Mary's" early gave way to a
+popular nickname. The College at once on its foundation received the
+gift of a tenement called "L'Oriole," which occupied its present
+site, and its name has displaced the real style of the College in
+general use.
+
+It is only fitting that, as in our picture, St. Mary's Church should
+be combined with Oriel, for the founder was Vicar of St. Mary's, and
+the presentation to that living has ever since been in the hands of
+the College. It was as a Fellow of Oriel that Newman became, in 1828,
+Vicar of St. Mary's, from the pulpit of which, during thirteen years,
+he moulded all that was best in the religious life of Oxford. The
+glorious spire of the church was still new when the College was
+founded.
+
+Oriel and its chapel are among the places for religious pilgrimage in
+Oxford. As Lincoln draws from all parts of the world those who
+reverence the name of John Wesley, so the Oxford Movement and the
+Anglican Revival had their starting-point, and for some time their
+centre, in Oriel. The connection of the College with the Movement was
+not in either case a mere accident; the Oxford Revival, at any rate,
+was profoundly influenced by the personality of Newman, and Newman,
+both by attraction and by repulsion, was largely what Oriel made him.
+Among those who were with him at the College were Archbishop Whately,
+whose Liberalism repelled him, Hawkins, the Provost, whose views on
+"Tradition" began to modify the Evangelicalism in which he had been
+brought up, Keble, whose /Christian Year/ did more for Church
+teaching in England than countless sermons, Pusey, already famous for
+his learning and his piety, who was to give his name to the Movement,
+and, slightly later, Church, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, the
+historian of the Movement, and Samuel Wilberforce, who, as Bishop of
+Oxford, was to show how profoundly it would increase the influence of
+the English Church.
+
+Such a combination of famous names at one time is hardly found in the
+history of any other college, and it would be easy to add others
+hardly less known, who were also members of the same body at that
+famous time. Hero-worshippers can still see the rooms where these
+great men lived, and the Common Room in which they met and argued, in
+the days when Oxford did less teaching and had more time for talking
+and for thinking than the busy, hurrying ways of the twentieth
+century allow. But Oriel has many other associations besides those of
+the Oxford Movement. Walter Raleigh, the most fascinating of
+Elizabethans, was a student there, and probably in Oxford met the
+great historian of travel and discovery, Richard Hakluyt (a Christ
+Church man), whose influence did so much to bring home to Oxford the
+wonders of the strange worlds beyond the seas. It was probably also
+through his connection with Oriel that Raleigh made the acquaintance
+of Harriot, who shared in his colonial ventures in Virginia, and who
+became the historian of that foundation, so full of importance as the
+beginning of the new England across the Atlantic. It was only fitting
+that the Raleigh of the nineteenth century, Cecil John Rhodes, should
+also be an Oriel man, who was never weary of acknowledging what he
+owed to Oxford, and who showed his faith in her by his works. The
+Rhodes' Foundation expends his millions in bringing scholars to
+Oxford from the whole world; already its influence has been great
+during its twenty years of existence; what it will be in the future,
+only the future can show. If Mr. Rhodes gave his millions to the
+University, he gave his tens of thousands to his old College. The
+result on the High Street is--to put it gently--not altogether happy;
+but perhaps time may soften the lines of Mr. Champney's somewhat
+uninspired front, though it is not likely to quicken interest in the
+statues of the obscure provosts which adorn it.
+
+
+
+
+QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+    "The building, parent of my young essays,
+     Asks in return a tributary praise;
+     Pillars sublime bear up the learned weight,
+     And antique sages tread the pompous height."
+                                          TICKELL.
+
+Queens's is one of the six oldest colleges in Oxford, and is far on
+to celebrating its sexcentenary, but it has purged itself of the
+Gothic leaven in its buildings more completely than any other Oxford
+foundation. It does not even occupy its own old site, for the
+building originally lay well back from the High Street. It was only
+the "civilities and kindnesses" of Provost Lancaster which induced
+the Mayor and Corporation of Oxford, in 1709, to grant to Queen's
+College "for 1,000 years," "so much ground on the High Street as
+shall be requisite for making their intended new building straight
+and uniform." And so the most important of "the streamlike windings
+of the glorious street" was in part determined by a corrupt bargain
+between "a vile Whig" (as Hearne calls this hated Provost) and a
+complaisant mayor. But much of the credit for the beauty of this part
+of the High must also be given to the architect of University College
+(seen in Plate IX on the left), who, whether by skill or by accident,
+combined at a most graceful angle the two quads, erected with an
+interval of some eighty years between them (1634 and 1719).
+
+A man must, indeed, be a Gothic purist who would wish away the
+stately front quadrangle of Queen's, designed by Wren's favourite
+pupil, Hawkmoor, while the master himself is said to be responsible
+for the chapel of the College, the most perfect basilican church in
+Oxford.
+
+If Queen's has been revolutionary in its buildings, it has been
+singularly tenacious of old customs. Its members still assemble at
+dinner to the sound of the trumpet (blown by a curious arrangement
+/after/ grace has been said); it still keeps up the ancient and
+honoured custom of bringing in the boar's head--"the chief service of
+this land"--for dinner on Christmas Day; while on New Year's Day, the
+Bursar still, as has been done for nearly 600 years, bids his guests
+"take this and be thrifty," as he hands each a "needle and thread,"
+wherewith to mend their academic hoods; the /aiguille et fil/ is
+probably a pun on the name of the founder, Robert Eglesfield. The
+College at these festivities uses the loving, cup, given it by its
+founder, perhaps the oldest piece of plate in constant use anywhere
+in Great Britain; five and a half centuries of good liquor have
+stained the gold-mounted aurochs' horn to a colour of unrivalled
+softness and beauty.
+
+Robert Eglesfield was almoner of the good Queen Philippa, wife of
+Edward III, and, like Adam de Brome, the founder of Oriel, he, too,
+commended his college to a royal patron. Ever since his time, the
+"Queen's College" has been under the patronage of the Queen's consort
+of England, and the connection has been duly acknowledged by many of
+them, especially by Henrietta Maria, the evil genius of Charles I,
+and by Queen Caroline, the good genius of George II. Her present
+Gracious Majesty, too, has recognized the college claim. The Queens
+Regnant have no obligations to the college, but Queen Elizabeth gave
+it the seal it still uses, and good Queen Anne was a liberal
+contributor to the rebuilding of the college in her day; her statue
+still adorns the cupola on the front to the High.
+
+ [Plate IX. High Street]
+
+No doubt it was the royal connection which brought to Queen's, if
+tradition may be trusted, two famous warrior princes, the Black
+Prince and Henry V; though it is at least doubtful whether the
+Queen's poet, Thomas Tickell, Addison's flattering friend, had any
+authority for the picture he gives of their college life. He
+describes them as:
+
+    "Sent from the Monarch's to the Muses' Court,
+     Their meals were frugal and their sleeps were short;
+     To couch at curfew time they thought no scorn,
+     And froze at matins every winters morn."
+
+The College has an interesting portrait of the great Henry, which may
+be authentic; but that of the Black Prince, which adorns the college
+hall, is known to have been painted from a handsome Oxford butcher's
+boy, in the eighteenth century. While we condemn the lack of historic
+sense in the Provost and Fellows of that day, we may at least acquit
+them of any intention of pacificist irony in their choice of a model.
+
+Queen's has had better poets than Tickell on its rolls, but, by a
+curious chance, the two most eminent--Joseph Addison and William
+Collins--were both tempted away from their first college by the
+superior wealth and attractions of Magdalen.
+
+The old local connections which were such a marked feature in the
+statutes of founders, and which so profoundly influenced Oxford down
+to the Commission of 1854, have been almost swept away at other
+colleges; but at Queen's they have always been strongly maintained.
+It has been, and is, emphatically, a north-country college. Not the
+least important factor in maintaining this tradition has been the
+great benefaction of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, fondly and familiarly
+known to all Queen's men as "Lady Betty." Steele wrote of her when
+young, that to "love her was a liberal education"; this may have been
+flattery, but her bounty, at any rate, has given a "liberal
+education" to hundreds of north-country men, who come up from the
+twelve schools of her foundation to her college at Oxford.
+
+It is interesting to note in Modern Oxford, attempts to re-establish
+those local connections, which the wisdom of our ancestors
+established, and which the self-complacency of Victorian reformers
+"vilely cast away."
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+
+    "There the kindly fates allowed
+     Me too room, and made me proud,
+     Prouder name I have not wist,
+     With the name of Wykehamist."
+                               L. JOHNSON.
+
+
+ [Plate X. New College : The Entrance Gateway]
+
+Among the "Founders" of Oxford colleges, three stand out pre-eminent
+--all three bishops of Winchester and great public servants. If
+Wolsey has undisputed claims for first place, there can be little
+doubt that, in spite of the great public services of Bishop Foxe, the
+Founder of Corpus, the second place must be assigned to William of
+Wykeham, "sometime Lord High Chancellor of England, the sole and
+munificent founder of the two St. Mary Winton colleges." Others,
+beside Wykehamists, hear with pleasure the magnificent roll of the
+titles of the Founder of New College, when one of his intellectual
+sons occupies the University pulpit, and gives thanks for "founders
+and benefactors, such as were William of Wykeham."
+
+In Oxford, without doubt, his great claim to be remembered will be
+held to be his college with the school at Winchester, which he linked
+to it. But he was also a reformer and a champion of Parliamentary
+privilege in the days when the "Good Parliament" set to work to check
+the misgovernment of Edward III in his dotage, and, as an architect,
+he is equally famous as having given to Windsor Castle its present
+shape, and as having secured the final triumph of the Perpendicular
+style by his glorious nave at Winchester.
+
+William of Wykeham is a very striking instance of what is too often
+Forgotten--viz., that in the Mediaeval Church all professional men,
+and not simply spiritual pastors, found their work and their reward
+in the ranks of the clergy. As "supervisor of the king's works," he
+earned the royal favour, which, after sixteen years of service,
+rewarded him with the rich bishopric of Winchester. Such a career and
+such a reward seem to modern ideas incongruous, even as they did to
+John Wycliffe, his great contemporary, who complained of men being
+made bishops because they were "wise in building castles." But many
+forms of service were needed to create England; Wykeham and Wycliffe
+both have a place in the roll of its "Makers." At all events, if
+Wykeham obtained his wealth by secular service, he spent it for the
+promoting of the welfare of the Church, as he conceived it. The
+purpose of his two colleges was to remedy the shortness of clergy in
+his day, and to assist the /militia clericalis/, which had been
+grievously reduced /pestilentiis, guerris et aliis mundi miseriis/
+(an obvious reference to the Black Death).
+
+New College was planned on a scale of magnificence which far exceeded
+any of the earlier colleges. It was emphatically the "New College,"
+[1] and its foundation (it was opened in 1386) marks the final
+triumph of the college system.
+
+[1] The popular name has entirety displaced its official style.
+Rather more than a generation ago, an historically minded Wykehamist
+tried to revive the proper style of his college, and headed all his
+letters "The College, of St. Mary of Winchester, Oxford." The result
+was disastrous for him; the replies came to the Vicar of St. Mary's,
+to St. Mary's Hall, to Winchester, anywhere but to him; and very soon
+practical necessity overcame antiquarian, propriety.
+
+Its Warden was to have a state corresponding to that of the great
+mitred abbots; the stables, where he kept his six horses, on the
+south side of New College Lane (to be seen in Plate X on the right),
+show, by their perfect masonry, how well the architect-bishop chose
+his materials and how skilfully they were worked.
+
+The entrance tower, in the centre of the picture, with its statues of
+the Blessed Virgin and of the Founder in adoration below on her left,
+was the abode of the Warden; but his lodgings, still the most
+magnificent home in Oxford, extended in both directions from the
+tower.
+
+Behind this front lay Wykeham's Quad, nestling under the shadow of
+the towering chapel and hall on the north side. Here also, as in the
+stables, the technical knowledge of the Founder is seen; his
+"chambers," after more than 500 years, have still their old stone
+unrenewed; while the third story, added 300 years later on (1674-5),
+has had to be entirely refaced.
+
+But it is in the public buildings, and especially in the chapel, that
+the greatness of Wykeham, as an architect, is best seen. In spite of
+the destructive fanaticism of the Reformation, and the almost equally
+destructive "restorations" of the notorious Wyatt, and of Sir Gilbert
+Scott (who inexcusably raised the height of the roof), the chapel
+still is indisputably the finest in Oxford. And its glass may
+challenge a still wider field. The eight great windows in the ante-
+chapel, dating from the Founder's time, rival the glories of the
+French cathedrals; the windows of the chapel proper, whatever be
+thought of their artistic success, are a unique instance of what
+English glass-makers could do in the eighteenth century; and Sir
+Joshua Reynolds' west window (the outside of which is seen in the
+centre of the next picture) has at all events the suffrages of the
+majority, who agree with Horace Walpole that it is "glorious," and
+that "the sun shining through the transparencies has a magic effect."
+It must be added, however, that Walpole soon changed his mind, and
+was very severe on Sir Joshua's "washy virtues," which have been
+compared to "seven chambermaids."
+
+Not the least interesting feature of the Founder's chapel is its
+detached bell-tower, seen in the next picture, on the north side of
+the cloisters. He obtained leave to place this on the city wall, a
+large section of which the College undertook to maintain-thus adding
+a permanent charm to their own garden.
+
+The magnificence of the Founder Bishop is well seen in his splendid
+crozier, bequeathed to him by his college, and still preserved on the
+north side of the chapel. The results of his work, for Oxford and for
+learning, will be briefly told of in the next chapter.
+
+ [Plate XI. New College : The Tower]
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "Round thy cloisters, in moonlight,
+     Branching dark, or touched with white:
+     Round old chill aisles, where, moon-smitten,
+     Blanches the Orate, written
+     Under each worn old-world face."
+                                       L. JOHHSON.
+
+William of Wykeham's College had other marked features besides its
+magnificent scale. Previous colleges had grown; at New College
+everything was organized from the first. As the great architectural
+History of Cambridge says: "For the first time, chapel, hall,
+library, treasury, the Warden's lodgings, a sufficient range of
+chambers, the cloister, the various domestic offices, are provided
+for and erected without change of plan." The chapel especially gave
+the model for the T shape, a choir and transepts without a nave,
+which has become the normal form in Oxford. The influence of
+Wykeham's building plan may be traced elsewhere also--at Cambridge
+and even in Scotland.
+
+In these well-planned buildings, definite arrangements were made for
+college instruction, as opposed to the general teaching open to the
+whole University; special /informafores/ were provided, who were to
+supervise the work of all scholars up to the age of sixteen. This
+marks the beginning of the Tutorial System, which has ever since
+played so great a part in the intellectual life of England's two old
+Universities.
+
+Wykeham's scholars all came from Winchester, and were supposed to be
+/pauperes/, but as one of the first, Henry Chichele, afterwards Henry
+V's Archbishop of Canterbury and the Founder of All Souls', was a son
+of the Lord Mayor of London, it is obvious that the qualification of
+"poverty" was interpreted with some laxity. It was not until the
+middle of the nineteenth century that others than Wykehamists were
+admitted as scholars.
+
+The fact that a mere boy was elected to a position which provided for
+him for life was not calculated to stimulate subsequent intellectual
+activity, and Wykehamists themselves have been among the first to say
+that the intellectual distinction of the great bishop's beneficiaries
+has by no means corresponded to the magnificence of the foundation or
+the noble intentions of the Founder. Antony Wood records in the
+seventeenth century that there was already an "ugly proverb" as to
+New College men--"Golden scholars, silver Bachelors, leaden Masters,
+wooden Doctors," "which is attributed," he goes on, "to their rich
+fellowships, especially to their ease and good diet, in which I think
+they exceed any college else."
+
+The nineteenth century has changed all this; the small and close
+college of pre-Commission days has become one of the largest and most
+intellectual in the University; but Winchester men in their Oxford
+college fully hold their own in every way against the scholars from
+the world outside, who are now admitted to share with them the
+advantages of Wykeham's foundation.
+
+The bishop's careful provision, however, of good teaching at his
+school and in his college bore good fruit at first, whatever may have
+been the result later. If Corpus is especially the college of the
+revival of learning, New College had prepared the way, and the first
+Englishman to teach Greek in Oxford was the New College fellow,
+William Grocyn, whom Erasmus called the "most upright and best of all
+Britons." From the same college, about the same time, came the patron
+of Erasmus, Archbishop Warham, of whose saintly simplicity and love
+of learning he gives so attractive a picture. Warham was not
+forgetful of his old college, and presented the beautiful "linen
+fold" panelling which still adorns the hall.
+
+At the time of the Reformation, New College was especially attached
+to the old form of the faith, and it has been maintained that the
+dangerous lowness of the wicket entrance in the Gate Tower was due to
+the deliberate purpose of the governing body, who resolved that
+everyone who entered the college, however Protestant his views,
+should bow his head under the statue of the Blessed Virgin above. At
+any rate, one New College man in the seventeenth century attributed
+his perversion to "the lively memorials of Popery in statues and
+pictures in the gates and in the chapel of New College."
+
+Certain it is that under Elizabeth, after the purging of the college
+from its recusant fellows, who contributed a large share of the Roman
+controversialists to the colleges of Louvain and Douai, Wykeham's
+foundation sank, as has been said, into inglorious ease for two
+centuries. Yet, during this period, it had the honour of producing
+two of the Seven Bishops who resisted King James II's attack on the
+English Constitution--one of them the saintly hymn writer, Thomas
+Ken. And to the darkest days of the eighteenth century belongs the
+most famous picture of the ideal Oxford life: "I spent many years, in
+that illustrious society, in a well-regulated course of useful
+discipline and studies, and in the agreeable and improving commerce
+of gentlemen and of scholars; in a society where emulation without
+envy, ambition without jealousy, contention without animosity,
+incited industry and awakened genius; where a liberal pursuit of
+knowledge and a genuine freedom of thought was raised, encouraged,
+and pushed forward by example, by commendation, and by authority."
+These were the words of Bishop Lowth, whose great work on /The Poetry
+of the Hebrews/ was delivered as lectures for the Chair of Poetry at
+Oxford.
+
+The spirit of Oxford has never been better described, and even that
+bitter critic, the great historian Gibbon, admits that Lowth
+practised what he preached, and that he was an ornament to the
+University in its darkest period. Of the days of Reform a forerunner
+was found in Sydney Smith, the witty Canon of St. Paul's.
+
+The names of New College men famous for learning or for political
+success, during the last half-century, are too recent to mention, but
+it is fitting to put on record that to New College belongs the sad
+distinction of having the longest Roll of Honour in the late War. It
+has lost about 250 of its sons, including four of the most
+distinguished young tutors in Oxford; History and Philosophy,
+Scholarship and Natural Science are all of them the poorer for the
+premature loss of Cheesman and Heath, Hunter and Geoffrey Smith;
+their names are familiar to everyone in Oxford, and they would have
+been familiar some day to the world of scholars everywhere. /Dis
+aliter visum est/.
+
+
+
+
+LINCOLN COLLEGE
+
+
+    "This is the chapel; here, my son,
+       Thy father dreamed the dreams of youth,
+     And heard the words, which, one by one,
+       The touch of life has turned to truth."
+                                       NEWBOLT.
+
+
+ [Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel Interior]
+
+The name of Lincoln College recalls a fact familiar to all students
+of ecclesiastical history, though surprising to the ordinary man--
+viz., that Oxford, till the Reformation, was in the great diocese of
+Lincoln, which stretched right across the Midlands from the Humber to
+the Thames. This fact had an important bearing on the history of the
+University; its bishop was near enough to help and protect, but not
+near enough to interfere constantly. Hence arose the curious position
+of the Oxford Chancellor, the real head of the mediaeval University
+and still its nominal head; though an ecclesiastical dignitary, and
+representing the Bishop, the Oxford Chancellor was not a cathedral
+official, but the elect of the resident Masters of Arts. How
+important this arrangement was for the independence of the University
+will be obvious.
+
+The ecclesiastical position of Oxford is responsible also for the
+foundation of four of its colleges; both Lincoln and Brasenose,
+colleges that touch each other, were founded by Bishops of Lincoln;
+Foxe and Wolsey, too, though holding other sees later, ruled over the
+great midland diocese.
+
+Richard Fleming, the Bishop of Lincoln, who founded the college that
+bears the name of his see, was in some ways a remarkable man. When
+resident in Oxford, he had been prominent among the followers of John
+Wycliffe and had shared his reforming views; but he was alarmed at
+the development of his master's teaching in the hands of disciples,
+and set himself to oppose the movement which he had once favoured. He
+founded his "little college" with the express object of training
+"theologians" "to defend the mysteries of the sacred page against
+those ignorant laics, who profaned with swinish snouts its most holy
+pearls." It is curious that Lincoln's great title to fame--and it is
+a very great one--is that its most distinguished fellow was John
+Wesley, the Wycliffe of the eighteenth century.
+
+The connection of Oxford and Lincoln College with Wesley and his
+movement is no accidental one, based merely on the fact that he
+resided there for a certain time. Humanly speaking, Wesley's
+connection with Lincoln was a determining factor in his spiritual and
+mental development, and it was while he was there that his followers
+received the name of "Methodists," a name given in scorn, but one
+which has become a thing of pride to millions. Wesley was a fellow of
+Lincoln for nine years, from 1726 to 1735. During the most
+impressionable years of a man's life--he was only twenty-three when
+he was elected fellow--he was developing his mental powers by an
+elaborate course of studies, and his spiritual life by the careful
+use of every form of religious discipline which the Church
+prescribed. A college, with its daily services and its life apart
+from the world, rendered the practice of such discipline possible. It
+was because Wesley and his followers, his brother Charles, George
+Whitefield and others, observed this discipline so carefully that
+they obtained their nickname. It is with good reason that Lincoln
+Chapel is visited by his disciples from all parts of the world; it
+has been little altered since his time, his pulpit is still here, and
+the glass and the carving which make it very interesting, if not
+beautiful, are those which he saw daily.
+
+The chapel is the memorial of the devotion to Lincoln of another
+churchman, more successful than Wesley from a worldly point of view,
+but now forgotten by all except professed students of history. John
+Williams, Bishop of Lincoln from 1621 to 1641, was the last
+ecclesiastic who "kept" the Great Seal of England. He had the
+misfortune to differ from Laud on the Church Question of the day, and
+was prosecuted before the Star Chamber for subornation of perjury,
+and heavily fined. There seems no doubt that he was guilty; but it
+was to advocacy of moderation and to his dislike of the king's
+arbitrary rule that he owed the severity of his punishment. Whatever
+his moral character, at all events he gave his college a beautiful
+little chapel, which is often compared to the slightly older one at
+Wadham; that of Lincoln is much the less spacious of the two, but in
+its wood carvings, at any rate, it is superior.
+
+Lincoln had the ill-fortune, in the nineteenth century, to produce
+the writer of one of those academic "Memoirs," which reveal, with a
+scholar's literary style, and also with a scholar's bitterness, the
+intrigues and quarrels that from time to time arise within college
+walls. Mark Pattison is likely to be remembered by the world in
+general because he is said to have been the original of George
+Eliot's "Mr. Casaubon"; in Oxford he will be remembered not only for
+the "Memoirs," but also as one who upheld the highest ideal of
+"Scholarship" when it was likely to be forgotten, and who criticized
+the neglect of "research." The personal attacks were those of a
+disappointed man; the criticisms, one-sided as they were, were
+certainly not unjustified.
+
+A university should certainly exist to promote learning, and Mark
+Pattison, with all his unfairness, certainly helped its cause in
+Oxford. But a university exists also for the promotion of friendships
+among young men, and for the development of their social life. Of
+this duty, Oxford has never been unmindful, and perhaps it is in
+small colleges like Lincoln that the flowers of friendship best
+flourish. It is needless to make comparisons, for they flourish
+everywhere; but it is appropriate to quote, when writing of one of
+the smaller Oxford colleges, the verses on this subject of a recent
+Lincoln poet (now dead); they will come home to every Oxford man:
+
+    "City of my loves and dreams,
+     Lady throned by limpid streams;
+     'Neath the shadow of thy towers,
+     Numbered I my happiest hours.
+     Here the youth became a man;
+     Thought and reason here began.
+     Ah! my friends, I thought you then
+     Perfect types of perfect men:
+     Glamour fades, I know not how,
+     Ye have all your failings now,"
+
+But Oxford friendships outlast the discovery that friends have
+"failings"; as Lord Morley, who went to Lincoln in 1856, writes:
+"Companionship (at Oxford) was more than lectures"; a friend's
+failure later (he refers to his contemporary, Cotter Morison's
+/Service of Man/) "could not impair the captivating comradeship of
+his prime."
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+
+
+    "Where yearly in that vernal hour
+     The sacred city is in shades reclining,
+     With gilded turrets in the sunrise shining:
+     From sainted Magdalene's aerial tower
+     Sounds far aloof that ancient chant are singing,
+     And round the heart again those solemn memories bringing."
+                                     ISAAC WILLIAMS.
+
+Macaulay was too good a Cambridge man to appreciate an Oxford college
+at its full worth; but he devotes one of his finest purple patches to
+the praise of Magdalen, ending, as is fitting, "with the spacious
+gardens along the river side," which, by the way, are not "gardens."
+Antony Wood praises Magdalen as "the most noble and rich structure in
+the learned world," with its water walks as "delectable as the banks
+of Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont to walk." To go a century
+further back, the Elizabethan, Sir John Davies, wrote:
+
+    "O honeyed Magdalen, sweete, past compare
+     Of all the blissful heavens on earth that are."
+
+Such praises could be multiplied indefinitely, and they are all
+deserved.
+
+The good genius of Magdalen has been faithful to it throughout. The
+old picturesque buildings on the High Street, taken over (1457) by
+the Founder, William of Waynflete, from the already existing hospital
+of St. John, were completed by his munificence in the most attractive
+style of English fifteenth century domestic architecture; Chapel and
+Hall, Cloisters and Founder's Tower, all alike are among the most
+beautiful in Oxford. When classical taste prevailed, the
+architectural purists of the eighteenth century were for sweeping
+almost all this away, and had a plan prepared for making a great
+classic quad; but wiser counsels, or lack of funds, thwarted this
+vandalistic design, and only the north side of the new quad was
+built, to give Magdalen a splendid specimen of eighteenth century
+work, without prejudice to the old. And in our own day, the genius of
+Bodley has raised in St. Swithun's Quad a building worthy of the best
+days of Oxford, while the hideous plaster roof, with which the
+mischievous Wyatt had marred the beauty of the hall, was removed, and
+a seemly oak roof put in its place. It is a great thing to be
+thankful for, that one set of college buildings in Oxford, though
+belonging to so many periods, has nothing that is not of the best.
+
+But the great glory of Magdalen has not yet been mentioned. This is,
+without doubt, its bell tower, which, standing just above the River
+Cherwell, is worthily seen, whether from near or far. A most curious
+and interesting custom is preserved in connection with it. Every May
+morning, at five o'clock (in Antony Wood's time the ceremony was an
+hour earlier), the choir mounts the tower and sings a hymn, which is
+part of the college grace; in the eighteenth century, however, the
+music was of a secular nature and lasted two hours. The ceremony has
+been made the subject of a great picture by Holman Hunt, and has been
+celebrated in many poems; the sonnet of Sir Herbert Warren, the
+present President, may be quoted as worthily expressing something of
+what has been felt by many generations of Magdalen men:
+
+    "Morn of the year, of day and May the prime,
+     How fitly do we scale the steep dark stair,
+     Into the brightness of the matin air,
+     To praise with chanted hymn and echoing chime,
+     Dear Lord of Light, thy  sublime,
+     That stooped erewhile our life's frail weeds to wear!
+     Sun, cloud and hill, all things thou fam'st so fair,
+     With us are glad and gay, greeting the time.
+     The College of the Lily leaves her sleep,
+     The grey tower rocks and trembles into sound,
+     Dawn-smitten Memnon of a happier hour;
+     Through faint-hued fields the silver waters creep:
+     Day grows, birds pipe, and robed anew and crowned,
+     Green Spring trips forth to set the world aflower."
+
+The tower was put to a far different use when, in the Civil War, it
+was the fortress against an attack from the east, and stones were
+piled on its top to overwhelm any invader who might force the bridge.
+
+Tradition connects this tower with the name of Magdalen's greatest
+son, Thomas Wolsey, who took his B.A. about 1486, at the age of
+fifteen, as he himself in his old age proudly told his servant and
+biographer, Cavendish. Certainty he was first Junior and then Senior
+Bursar for a time, while the tower was building, 1492-1504. But the
+scandal that he had to resign his bursarship for misappropriation of
+funds in connection with the tower may certainly be rejected.
+
+On the right of Magdalen Bridge, looking at the tower, as we see it
+in the picture, stretches Magdalen Meadow, round which run the famous
+water walks. The part of these on the north-west side is especially
+connected with Joseph Addison, who was a fellow at Magdalen from 1697
+to 1711. He was elected "demy" (at Magdalen, scholars bear this name)
+the first year (1689) after the Revolution, when the fellows of
+Magdalen had been restored to their rights, so outrageously invaded
+by King James. This "golden" election was famous in Magdalen annals,
+at once for the number elected--seventeen--and for the fame of some
+of those elected. Besides the greatest of English essayists, there
+were among the new "demies," a future archbishop, a future bishop,
+and the high Tory, Henry Sacheverell, whose fiery but unbalanced
+eloquence overthrew the great Whig Ministry, which had been the
+patron of his college contemporary.
+
+Magdalen Meadow preserves still the well-beloved Oxford fritillaries,
+which are in danger of being extirpated in the fields below Iffley by
+the crowds who gather them to sell in the Oxford market.
+
+Of the part of the College on the High Street, the most interesting
+portion is the old stone pulpit (shown in Plate XIV). The connection
+of this with the old Hospital of St. John is still marked by the
+custom of having the University sermon here on St. John the Baptist's
+Day; this was the invariable rule till the eighteenth century, and
+the pulpit (Hearne says) was "all beset with boughs, by way of
+allusion to St. John Baptist's preaching in the wilderness." Even as
+early as Heame's time, however, a wet morning drove preacher and
+audience into the chapel, and open-air sermons were soon given up
+altogether, only to be revived (weather permitting) in our own day.
+ The chapel lies to the left of the pulpit, and is known all the
+world over for its music; there are three famous choirs in Oxford--
+those of the Cathedral, of New College, and of Magdalen, and to the
+last, as a rule, the palm is assigned. It is to Oxford what the choir
+of King's is to Cambridge; but the chapel of Magdalen has not
+
+    "The high embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof,
+     And storied windows richly dight,
+     Casting a dim religious light"
+
+of the "Royal Saint's" great chapel at Cambridge.
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+    "Sing sweetly, blessed babes that suck the breast
+     Of this sweet nectar-dropping Magdalen,
+     Their praise in holy hymns, by whom ye feast,
+     The God of gods and Waynflete, best of men,
+     Sing in an union with the Angel's quires,
+     Sith Heaven's your house."
+                                        SIR J. DAVIES.
+
+Magdalen College was founded by William of Waynflete, Bishop of
+Winchester, who had been a faithful minister of Henry VI. He had
+served as both Master and Provost of the King's own college at Eton
+(and also as Master of Winchester College before), and from Eton he
+brought the lilies which still figure in the Magdalen shield. As a
+member of the Lancastrian party, he fell into disgrace when the
+Yorkists triumphed, but he made his peace with Edward IV, whose
+statue stands over the west door of the chapel, with those of St.
+Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, St. Swithun (Bishop of
+Winchester), and the Founder. And the Tudors were equally friendly to
+the new foundation; Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's unfortunate elder
+brother, was a resident in Magdalen on two occasions, and the College
+has still a splendid memorial of him in the great contemporary
+tapestry, representing his marriage with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+To the very early days of Magdalen belongs its connection with the
+Oxford Reform Movement and the Revival of Learning. Both Fox and
+Wolsey, successively Bishops of Winchester, and the munificent
+founders of Corpus and of Cardinal (i.e. Christ Church) Colleges,
+were members of Waynflete's foundation, and so probably was John
+Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, whose learning and piety so impressed
+Erasmus. "When I listen to my beloved Colet," he writes in 1499, "I
+seem to be listening to Plato himself"; and he asks--why go to Italy
+when Oxford can supply a climate "as charming as it is healthful" and
+"such culture and learning, deep, exact and worthy of the good old
+times ?" Erasmus' praise of Oxford climate is unusual from a
+foreigner; the more usual view is that of his friend Vives, who came
+to Oxford soon after as a lecturer at the new college of Corpus
+Christi; he writes from Oxford: "The weather here is windy, foggy and
+damp, and gave me a rough reception."
+
+Colet's lectures on the Epistle to the Romans, perhaps delivered in
+Magdalen College, marked an epoch in the way of the interpretation of
+Holy Scripture, by their freedom from traditional methods and by
+their endeavour to employ the best of the New Learning in determining
+the real meaning of the Apostle. To the same school as Colet in the
+Church belonged Reginald Pole, Archbishop in the gloomy days of Queen
+Mary, the only Magdalen man who has held the See of Canterbury.
+
+Elizabeth visited the College, and gently rebuked the Puritan
+tendencies of the then President, Dr. Humphrey, who carried his
+scruples so far as to object to the academical scarlet he had to wear
+as a Doctor of Divinity, because it savoured of the "Scarlet Woman."
+"Dr. Humphrey," said the queen, with the tact alike of a Tudor
+sovereign and of a true woman, "methinks this gown and habit become
+you very well, and I marvel that you are so strait-laced on this
+point--but I come not now to chide." This President complained that
+his headship was "more payneful than gayneful," a charge not usually
+brought against headships at Oxford.
+
+In the seventeenth century, Magdalen was, for a short time, the very
+centre of England's interest. James II, in his desire to force Roman
+Catholicism on Oxford, tried to fill the vacant Presidency with one
+of his co-religionists. His first nominee was not only disqualified
+under the statutes, but was also a man of so notoriously bad a
+character that even the king had to drop him. Meanwhile, the fellows,
+having waited, in order to oblige James, till the last possible
+moment allowed by the statutes, filled up the vacancy by electing one
+of their own number, John Hough. When the king pronounced this
+election irregular and demanded the removal of the President and the
+acceptance of his second nominee, the fellows declared themselves
+unable thus to violate their statutes, even at royal command, and
+were accordingly driven out. The "demies," who were offered
+nominations to the fellowships thus rendered vacant, supported their
+seniors, and, in their turn, too, were driven out; they had showed
+their contempt for James' intruded fellows by "cocking their hats" at
+them, and by drinking confusion to the Pope. When the landing of
+William of Orange was threatening, James revoked all these arbitrary
+proceedings, but it was too late; he had brought home, by a striking
+example, to Oxford and to England, that no amount of past services,
+no worthiness of character, no statutes, however clear and binding,
+were to weigh for a moment with a royal bigot, who claimed the power
+to "dispense" with any statutes. The "Restoration" of the Fellows on
+October 25, 1688, is still celebrated by a College Gaudy, when the
+toast for the evening is /jus suum cuique/.
+
+Hough remained President for thirteen years, during most of which
+time he was bishop--first of Oxford and then of Lichfield. He finally
+was translated to Worcester, where he died at the age of ninety-
+three, after declining the Archbishopric of Canterbury. His monument,
+in his cathedral, records his famous resistance to arbitrary
+authority.
+
+Magdalen in the eighteenth century has an unenviable reputation,
+owing to the memoirs of its most famous historian, Edward Gibbon, who
+matriculated, in 1752, and who describes the fourteen months which
+elapsed before he was expelled for becoming a Roman Catholic, "as the
+most idle and unprofitable of my whole life." The "Monks of
+Magdalen," as he calls the fellows, "decent, easy men," "supinely
+enjoyed the gifts of the founder." It should be added that Gibbon was
+not quite fifteen when he entered the College, and that his picture
+of it is no doubt coloured by personal bitterness. But its
+substantial justice is admitted. Certainly, nothing could be feebler
+than the /Vindication of Magdalen College/, published by a fellow
+James Hurdis, the Professor of Poetry; his intellectual calibre may
+perhaps be gauged from the exquisite silliness of his poem, "The
+Village Curate," of which the following lines, addressed to the
+Oxford heads of houses, are a fair specimen:
+
+                              "Ye profound
+    And serious heads, who guard the twin retreats
+    Of British learning, give the studious boy
+    His due indulgence. Let him range the field,
+    Frequent the public walk, and freely pull
+    The yielding oar. But mark the truant well,
+    And if he turn aside to vice or folly,
+    Show him the rod, and let him feel you prize
+    The parent's happiness, the public good."
+
+Magdalen might fairly claim that a place so beautiful as it is,
+justifies itself by simply existing, and the perfection of its
+buildings and the beauty of its music must appeal, even to our own
+utilitarian age. But it has many other justifications besides its
+beauty; its great wealth is being continually applied to assist the
+University by the endowment of new professorships, especially for the
+Natural Sciences, and to aid real students, whether those who have
+made, or those who are likely to make, a reputation as researchers.
+It is needless to mention names: every Oxford man and every lover of
+British learning knows them.
+
+ [Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air Pulpit]
+
+For the world in general, which cares not for research, the success
+of the College under its present President, Sir Herbert Warren,
+himself at once a poet and an Oxford Professor of Poetry, will be
+evidenced by its increase in numbers and by its athletic successes.
+They will judge as our King judged when he chose Magdalen for the
+academic home of the Prince of Wales. The Prince, unlike other royal
+persons at Magdalen and elsewhere, lived (1912-14) not in the
+lodgings of the President, or among dons and professors, but in his
+own set of rooms, like any ordinary undergraduate. He showed, in
+Oxford, that power of self-adaptation which has since won him golden
+opinions in the great Dominion and the greater Republic of the West.
+
+
+
+
+BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Of the colleges of Oxford, Exeter is the most
+     proper for western, Queen's for northern, and
+     Brasenose for north-western men."
+                                FULLER, /Worthies/.
+
+ [Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and Radcliffe Library]
+
+Brasenose college is in the very centre of the University, fronting
+as it does on Radcliffe Square, where Gibbs' beautiful dome supplies
+the Bodleian with a splendid reading-room. And this site has always
+been consecrated to students; where the front of Brasenose now stands
+ran School Street, leading from the old /Scholae Publicae/, in which
+the disputations of the Mediaeval University were held, to St. Mary's
+Church.
+
+It was from this neighbourhood that some Oxford scholars migrated to
+Stamford in 1334, in order to escape one of the many Town and Gown
+rows, which rendered Mediaeval Oxford anything but a place of quiet
+academic study. They seem to have carried with them the emblem of
+their hall, a fine sanctuary knocker of brass, representing a lion's
+head, with a ring through its nose; this knocker was installed at a
+house in Stamford, which still retains the name it gave, "Brasenose
+Hall." The knocker itself was there till 1890, when the College
+recovered the relic (it now hangs in the hall). The students were
+compelled by threats of excommunication to return to their old
+university, and down to the beginning of the nineteenth century,
+Oxford men, when admitted to the degree of M.A., were compelled to
+swear "not to lecture at Stamford."
+
+The old "King's Hall," which bore the name of "Brasenose," was
+transformed into a college in 1511 by the munificence of our first
+lay founder, Sir Richard Sutton; he shared his benevolence, however,
+with Bishop Smith, of Lincoln. The College celebrated, in 1911, its
+quatercentenary in an appropriate way, by publishing its register in
+full, with a group of most interesting monographs on various aspects
+of the College history.
+
+The buildings are a good example of the typical Oxford college; the
+Front Quad, shown in our picture, belongs to the time of the
+Founders, but the picturesque third story of dormer windows, which
+give it a special charm, dates from the reign of James I, when all
+colleges were rapidly increasing their numbers and their
+accommodation. Of the rest of the buildings of Brasenose, the chapel
+deserves special notice, for it was the last effort of the Gothic
+style in Oxford, and it was actually finished in the days of
+Cromwell, not a period likely to be favourable to the erection of new
+college chapels.
+
+Brasenose (or B.N.C., as it is universally called) has produced a
+prime minister of England in Henry Addington, whom the college record
+kindly describes as "not the most distinguished" statesman who has
+held that position: but a much better known worthy is John Foxe, the
+Martyrologist, whose chained works used to add a grim charm of horror
+to so many parish churches in England; the experiences of the young
+Macaulay, at Cheddar, are an example which could be paralleled by
+those of countless young readers of Foxe, who, however, did not
+become great historians and are forgotten. Somewhat junior to Foxe,
+at B.N.C., was Robert Burton, the author of the /Anatomy of
+Melancholy/, who found both his lifework as a parish vicar, and his
+burial-place in Oxford.
+
+But these names, and the names of many other B.N.C. worthies, hardly
+attain to the first rank in the annals of England's life. The
+distinguishing features of the College have long been its special
+connection with the Palatine counties, Lancashire and Cheshire, and
+its prominence in the athletic life which is so large a part of
+Oxford's attraction. To the connection with Lancashire, B.N.C. owes
+the name of its college boat, "The Child of Hale"; for John
+Middleton, the famous, giant, who is said to have been 9 ft. 3 in.
+high (perhaps measurements were loose when James I was king), was
+invited by the members of his county to visit the College, where he
+is said to have left a picture of his hand; this the ever curious
+Pepys paid 2s. to see. A more profitable connection between
+Lancashire and B.N.C. is the famous Hulmeian endowment, which is
+almost a record instance of the value of the unearned increment of
+land to a learned foundation.
+
+The rowing men of Brasenose are as famous as the scholars of Balliol.
+The poet parodist, half a century ago, described her as:
+
+    "Queen of the Isis wave,
+     Who trains her crews on beef and beer,
+     Competitors to brave,"
+
+and the lines written in jest were a true compliment. The young
+manhood of England had maintained its vigour by its love of
+athletics, and has learned, in the discipline of the athletic club,
+how to obey and also how to command. Hence it was fitting that to
+B.N.C. should fall the honour of giving to Britain her greatest
+soldier in the Great War; Lord Haig of Bemerside was an undergraduate
+member of the College in the 'eighties of the last century, and the
+College has honoured him and itself by making him an Honorary Fellow.
+
+Most Oxford colleges have their quaint and distinctive customs; that
+of Brasenose was certainly not inappropriate to the character that
+has just been sketched. Every Shrove Tuesday some junior member of
+the College presented verses to the butler in honour of Brasenose
+ale, and received a draught in return. The custom is recorded by
+Hearne more than two hundred years ago, and may well be older,
+though, as the poet of the Quatercentenary sadly confessed, its
+attribution to King Alfred--
+
+    "Our woven fantasy of Alfred's ale,
+     By conclusive cut of critic dry,
+     Is shredded clean away."
+
+The most distinguished poet who thus commemorated the special drink
+of England and of B.N.C. was Reginald Heber, bishop and hymn-writer,
+who composed the verses in 1806; the compositions have been collected
+and published at least three times. When the old brew-house was
+pulled down to make room for the New Quad, the College gave up
+brewing its own beer, and its poets ceased to celebrate it; but the
+custom was revived, as has been said, in 1909. It may be permitted to
+a non-Brasenose man to quote and echo the patriotic expressions of
+the versifier of 1886:
+
+    "Shall Brasenose, therefore, fail to hold her own?
+     She nerves herself, anew, for coming strife,
+     Her vigorous pulses beat with strength and life.
+     Courage, my brothers! Troubles past forget!
+     On to fresh deeds! the gods love Brasenose yet."
+
+
+
+
+CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+
+
+    "But still the old quadrangle keeps the same,
+       The pelican is here;
+     Ancestral genius of the place, whose name
+       All Corpus men revere."
+              J. J. C., in "/The Pelican Record/," 1700.
+
+ [Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First Quadrangle]
+
+Corpus is emphatically, before all other colleges in Oxford, the
+college of the Revival of Learning; its very foundation marked the
+change from the old order of things to the new. Its Founder, Bishop
+Foxe, of Winchester, was one of the great statesman-prelates to whom
+mediaeval England owed so much, and he had a leading share in
+arranging the two royal marriages which so profoundly affected the
+history of our country, that of Henry VII's daughter, Margaret, with
+the King of Scotland, and that of his son, afterwards Henry VIII,
+with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+After a life spent "in the service of God" "in the State," rather
+than "in the Church," Foxe resolved to devote some of his great
+wealth to a foundation for the strengthening of the Church. His first
+intention was to found a college for monks, but, fortunately for his
+memory and for Oxford, he followed the advice of his friend, Bishop
+Oldham, of Exeter, who told him, in words truly prophetic, that the
+days of monasteries were past: "What, my lord, shall we build housed
+for a company of buzzing monks, whose end and fall we ourselves may
+live to see? No, no, it is more meet a great deal that we should have
+care to provide for the increase of learning." In the next generation
+the monasteries were all swept away, while Foxe's College remains a
+monument of the Founder's pious liberality and of his friend's wise
+prescience.
+
+Corpus was the first institution in England where definite provision
+was made for a teacher of the Greek Language, and Erasmus hailed it
+with enthusiasm; in a letter to the first President of the new
+college, he definitely contrasts the conciliatory methods of
+Reformers in England with the more violent methods of those in
+Germany, and counts Foxe's foundation, which he compares to the
+Pyramids of Egypt or the Colossus of Rhodes, among "the chief glories
+of Britain."
+
+Foxe, however, did not confine his benefactions to classical studies,
+important as these were. He imported a German to teach his scholars
+mathematics, and the scientific tastes of his students are well
+illustrated by the picturesque and curious dial, still in the centre
+of his College Quad, which was constructed by one of them in the
+reign of Elizabeth. It is well shown in our picture, as are also
+Foxe's charming low buildings, almost unaltered since the time of
+their Founder.
+
+But it has been on the humanistic, rather than on the scientific,
+side that Corpus men have specially distinguished themselves. The
+first century of the College existence produced the two great
+Elizabethan champions of Anglicanism. Bishop Jewel, whose "Apology"
+was for a long period the great bulwark of the English Church against
+Jesuit attacks, had laid the foundations of his great learning in the
+Corpus Library, still--after that of Merton--the most picturesque in
+Oxford; he often spent whole days there, beginning an hour before
+Early Mass, i.e. at 4 a.m., and continuing his reading till 10 p.m.
+"There were giants on the earth in those days." Even more famous is
+the "judicious Hooker," who resided in the college for sixteen years,
+and only left it when, by the wiles of a woman, he, "like a true
+Nathanael who feared no guile" (as his biographer, Isaac Walton,
+writes), was entrapped into a marriage which "brought him neither
+beauty nor fortune." The first editor of his great work, /The
+Ecclesiastical Polity/, was a Corpus man, and it was only fitting
+that the Anglican Revival of the nineteenth century should receive
+its first impulse from the famous Assize Sermon (in 1833) of another
+Corpus scholar, John Keble.
+
+Corpus has been singularly fortunate in its history, no doubt because
+its Presidents have been so frequently men of mark for learning and
+for character. Even in the dark period of the eighteenth century it
+recovered sooner than the rest of the University, and one of its sons
+records complacently that "scarcely a day passed without my having
+added to my stock of knowledge some new fact or idea." A charming
+picture of the life of the scholars of Corpus at the beginning of the
+last century is given in Stanley's /Life of Arnold/; for the famous
+reformer of the English public-school system was at the College
+immediately after John Keble, whom he followed as fellow to Oriel, on
+the other side of the road. It need hardly be added that in those
+days an Oriel Fellowship was the crown of intellectual distinction in
+Oxford.
+
+Bishop Foxe had set up his college as a "ladder" by which, "with one
+side of it virtue and the other knowledge," men might, while they
+"are strangers and pilgrims in this unhappy and dying world," "mount
+more easily to heaven." Changing his metaphor he goes on, "We have
+founded and raised up in the University of Oxford a hive wherein
+scholars, like intelligent bees, may, night and day, build up wax to
+the glory of God, and gather honeyed sweets for their own profit and
+that of all Christian men." So far as it is given to human
+institutions to succeed, his college has fulfilled his aims.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+ [Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Meadows]
+
+
+    "Those voiceless towers so tranquil seem,
+     And yet so solemn in their might,
+     A loving heart could almost deem
+     That they themselves might conscious be
+     That they were filled with immortality."
+                                   F. W. FABER.
+
+The east end of Oxford Cathedral, shown both in the frontispiece
+(Plate I) and Plate XVII, probably contains the oldest buildings,
+above ground, in Oxford. Inside the cathedral can clearly be seen
+traces of three round arches, which may well be part of the church
+founded by St. Frideswyde in the eighth century. That princess,
+according to the tradition, the details of which are all pictured by
+Burne-Jones in the east window of the Latin Chapel, having escaped by
+a miracle the advances of too ardent a suitor, founded a nunnery at
+Oxford. The nunnery, which was later transferred to Canons, was
+undoubtedly the earliest institution in Oxford, and in its cloisters,
+in the second decade of the twelfth century, we hear of students
+gathering for instruction. It was this old monastery, which Wolsey,
+with his reforming zeal, chose as the site of his great Cardinal
+College, and the chapel of the old foundation was to serve for his
+new one, until such time as a great new chapel, rivalling in
+splendour that of King's College at Cambridge, had been built on the
+north side of Tom Quad. This new chapel never got beyond the stage of
+foundations; and hence the old building has continued to serve the
+college till this day, having been made also the cathedral of the new
+diocese of Oxford, which was founded by King Henry VIII. Wolsey may,
+perhaps, be credited with the fine fan tracery of the choir roof, but
+he certainly swept away three bays of the nave in order to carry out
+his ambitious building plans, and only one of these three bays has
+been restored in the nineteenth century.
+
+Wolsey's action at Christ Church was significant. Men felt that the
+days of monasteries were past, and the Church was ready to welcome
+and to extend the New Learning. But his changes were a dangerous
+precedent; as Fuller says with his usual quaintness: "All the forest
+of religious foundations in England did shake, justly fearing the
+King would finish to fell the oaks, seeing the Cardinal began to cut
+the underwood." Henry, however, when he swept away the monasteries,
+spared his great minister's work; modifying it, however, as has just
+been said, by associating the newly-founded college with the diocese
+of Oxford, now formed out of the unwieldy See of Lincoln.
+
+The cathedral is the smallest in England, but contains many features
+of special interest; its most marked peculiarity is the great breadth
+of the choir, due to the addition of two aisles on the north side;
+these were built to gain more room for the worshippers at the shrine
+of St. Frideswyde. Another feature of architectural interest is the
+spire, which is one of the earliest in England. But perhaps even more
+interesting is the wonderful series of glass windows, which give good
+examples of almost every English style from the fourteenth to the
+nineteenth century. And for once the moderns can hold their own; the
+Burne-Jones windows of the choir (not, however, the Frideswyde
+window, already mentioned) are particularly beautiful.
+
+The hand of the "restorer" has been active at Christ Church, as
+elsewhere in Oxford; Gilbert Scott took on himself to remove a fine
+fourteenth-century window from the east end of the choir, and to
+substitute the Norman work shown in Plate I. The effect is admittedly
+good, but it may be questioned whether it be right to falsify
+architectural history in this way.
+
+Oxford Cathedral has great associations apart from the college to
+which it belongs. It was to it that Cranmer was brought to receive
+the Pope's sentence of condemnation, and in the cloisters the
+ceremony of his degradation from the archbishopric was carried out.
+Almost a century later the Cathedral was the centre of the religious
+life of the Royalist party; when Charles I made his capital in Oxford
+and his home in Christ Church, and when the Cavaliers fought to the
+war-cry of "Church and King." It is not surprising that, when the
+Parliamentarians entered Oxford, the windows of the Cathedral were
+much "abused"; that so much old glass was spared was probably due to
+the local patriotism of old Oxford men.
+
+In the next century it was to Christ Church that Bishop Berkeley, the
+greatest of British philosophers, retired to end his days, and to
+find a burial-place; and, during the long life of Dr. Pusey, the
+Cathedral of Oxford was a place of pilgrimage, as the living centre
+of the Oxford movement.
+
+In the back of the picture (Plate XVII), behind the Cathedral, rises
+the square tower, put up by Mr. Bodley to contain the famous Christ
+Church peal of bells (now twelve in number), familiar through Dean
+Aldrich's famous round, "Hark, the bonny Christ Church bells." When
+the tower was erected, it was the subject of much criticism,
+especially from the witty pen of C. L. Dodgson, the world-famous
+creator of /Alice in Wonderland/. The opening paragraph is a fair
+specimen:
+    "Of the etymological significance of the new belfry, Christ
+Church.
+    "The word 'belfry' is derived from the French '/bel/-- beautiful,
+meet,' and from the German '/frei/--free, unfettered, safe.' Thus the
+word is strictly equivalent to 'meat-safe,' to which the new belfry
+bears a resemblance so perfect as almost to amount to coincidence."
+
+Others saw in the uncompromising squareness of the new tower a subtle
+compliment to the Greek lexicon of Liddell, who then was Dean. But in
+spite of the wits, who resented any innovation in so famous a group
+of buildings, Bodley's tower is a fine one, and really enhances the
+effect of Tom Quad.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+
+
+    "And love the high-embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof."
+                                MILTON
+
+ [Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall Staircase]
+
+When Wolsey began to build what he intended to be the most splendid
+college in the world, the first part to be finished was the dining-
+hall, with the kitchen. The wits of the time made very merry at this:
+their epigram /Egregium opus! Cardinalis iste instituit collegium et
+absolvit popinam/ may be rendered:
+
+    "Here's a fine piece of work! Your Cardinal
+     A college plans, completes a guzzling-hall."
+
+Certainly the hall of Christ Church is the finest "popina" which has
+ever been abused by envious critics; its size and magnificence place
+it easily first among the halls of Oxford, and its great outline
+stands conspicuous in all views of Oxford from the south, whether by
+day, or when by night, to quote M. Arnold's "Thyrsis":
+
+     "The line of festal light in Christ Church Hall"
+
+shines afar. And the kitchen, a perfect cube in shape, is worthy of
+the hall which it feeds, and is, perhaps, more appreciated by many of
+Oxford's visitors; for the taste for meringues is more common than
+that for masterpieces of portraiture. The report to Wolsey, in 1526,
+by his agent, the Warden of New College, is still true; the kitchen
+is "substantially and goodly done, in such manner as no two of the
+best colleges in Oxford have rooms so goodly and convenient."
+
+The approach to the hall, seen in Plate XVIII, is later than Wolsey's
+work, but is fully worthy of him. The beautiful fan tracery, which
+hardly suffers by being compared with Henry VII's Chapel at
+Westminster, was put up, extraordinary as it may seem, in the middle
+of the seventeenth century, by the elder Dean Fell; all we know of
+its origin is that it was the work of "Smith, an artificer of
+London," surely the most modest architect who ever designed a
+masterpiece. The staircase itself is later, the work of the notorious
+Wyatt, who for once meddled with a great building without spoiling
+it.
+
+The history of Christ Church is very largely the history of the
+University of Oxford. It is still our wealthiest and largest
+foundation, although the disproportion between it and other colleges
+is by no means so great as it once was; and, thanks to its having
+been ruled by a series of famous and energetic deans, its periods of
+inglorious inactivity have been fewer than those of most other
+colleges. The roll of deans contains such names as those of John
+Owen, the most famous of Puritan preachers, John Fell, theologian and
+founder of the greatness of the Oxford Press, Henry Aldrich,
+universally accomplished as scholar, logician, musician, architect,
+Francis Atterbury, Jacobite and plotter, Cyril Jackson, who ruled
+Christ Church with a rod of iron, and who ranks first among the
+creators of nineteenth-century Oxford, Thomas Gaisford and Henry
+George Liddell, great Greek scholars. It seems that a college gains
+something by having its head appointed from outside; the Dean at
+Christ Church is appointed by the Crown.
+
+The importance of Christ Church is especially seen in its hall,
+through its collection of portraits. It is not only that this is
+superior to that of any one other college; it may well be doubted if
+the combined efforts of all the colleges could produce a collection
+equal to that of Christ Church in artistic merit, or superior to it
+in historical importance. The prime ministers of England, of whom
+Christ Church claims twelve (nine of them in the last century), are
+represented among others by George Grenville, the unfortunate author
+of the Stamp Act, George Canning, who called "the New World into
+existence to redress the balance of the Old," and W. E. Gladstone;
+among the eight Christ Church men who have been Governor-Generals of
+India, the Marquess Wellesley stands out pre-eminent; Christ Church
+has sent five archbishops to Canterbury and nine to York; there is a
+portrait in the hall of Wake, the most famous of the holders of the
+See of Canterbury. Lord Mansfield's picture worthily represents the
+learning and impartiality of the English Bench. But even more
+interesting than any of those already mentioned are the portraits of
+John Locke, who was philosopher enough to forgive Christ Church for
+obeying James II and expelling him, of William Penn, presented, as
+was fitting, by the American state that bears his name, of John
+Wesley and of Dr. Pusey, whose names will be for ever associated with
+the two greatest of Oxford's religious movements. And it may well be
+hoped that C. L. Dodgson ("Lewis Carroll") will delight children for
+many generations to come, as he has delighted those of the last half-
+century, by his Alice and her "Adventures."
+
+An interest, rather historical than personal, attaches to the group
+portrait that occupies a position of honour over the fireplace; it
+represents the three Oxford divines--John Fell (already mentioned),
+Dolben, who later was Archbishop of York, and Allestree, afterwards
+Provost of Eton, who braved the penal law against churchmen by
+reading the forbidden Church Service daily all through the time of
+the Commonwealth.
+
+Nowhere, so much as in Christ Church, is the poet's description of
+Oxford appropriate; her students may:
+
+    "Stand, in many an ancient hall,
+     Where England's greatest deck the wall,
+     Prelate and Statesman, prince and poet;
+     Who hath an ear, let him hear them call."
+
+
+ [Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall Interior]
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (3) "TOM" TOWER
+
+
+    "Those twins of learning, which he raised in you,
+     Ipswich and Oxford, one of which fell with him;
+     The other, though unfinished, yet so famous,
+     So excellent in art, and still so rising,
+     That Christendom shall ever speak his virtue."
+                       SHAKESPEARE, /Henry VIII/.
+
+Oxford is described by Matthew Amold as,
+
+    "Beautiful city, with her dreaming spires,"
+
+yet it is for her towers, especially, that she is famous. Glorious as
+St. Mary's is, it certainly does not surpass Magdalen Tower; and it
+may well be doubted whether the genius of Wren has not excelled both
+Magdalen and St. Mary's in "Tom" Tower. Gothic purists, of course, do
+not like it. There is a well-authenticated story of a really great
+architect who, in the early days of the twentieth century, was asked
+to submit a scheme for its repair; after long delay he sent in a plan
+for an entirely new tower on correct Gothic lines, because (as he
+wrote) no one would wish to preserve "so anomalous a structure" as
+Tom Tower. The world, however, does not agree with the minute
+critics; it is easy to find fault with the details of "Tom," but in
+proportion, in dignity, in suitability to his position, the greatest
+qualities that can be required in any building, "Tom" is pre-eminent.
+This is the more to be wondered at, as the tower was erected a
+century and a half after the great gateway which it crowns.
+
+The genius of Wolsey had planned a magnificent front, but only a
+little more than half of it was completed when Henry VIII ended the
+career of his greatest servant, and altered the plans of the most
+glorious college in Europe. It was not till the period just before
+the Civil War that the northern part of the front of Christ Church
+was built by the elder Dean Fell, and the work was only completed
+when his son, the famous Dr. Fell, doomed to eternal notoriety by the
+well-known rhymes about his mysterious unpopularity, employed Wren to
+build the gate tower. Yet the whole presents one harmonious design,
+worthy of the most famous of Oxford founders and of the greatest of
+British architects. It is fitting that it should be Wolsey's statue
+which adorns the gate--a statue given by stout old Jonathan Trelawny,
+one of the Seven Bishops, whose name is perpetuated by the refrain of
+Hawker's spirited ballad, which deceived even Macaulay as to its
+authenticity:
+
+
+    "And must Trelawny die?
+     Then thirty thousand Cornish men
+     Will know the reason why."
+
+ Tom Tower appeals to Oxford men through more than one of their
+senses; it is a most conspicuous object in every view; and in it is
+hung the famous bell, "Great Tom," the fourth largest bell in
+England, weighing over seven tons. This once belonged to Osney Abbey,
+when it was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and bore the
+legend:
+
+    "In Thomae laude resono Bim Bom sine fraude."
+
+It was transplanted to Christ Church in the reign of Queen Mary, and
+at the time it was proposed to rechristen it "Pulcra Maria," in
+honour at once of the Queen and of the Blessed Virgin; but the old
+name prevailed. Every night but one, from May 29, 1684, until the
+Great War silenced him, Tom has sounded out, after 9 p.m., his 101
+strokes, as a signal that all should be within their college walls;
+the number is the number of the members of the foundation of Christ
+Church in 1684, when the tower was finished. During the war Tom was
+forbidden to sound, along with all other Oxford bells and clocks, for
+might not his mighty voice have guided some zeppelin or German
+aeroplane to pour down destruction on Oxford? Few things brought home
+more to Oxford the meaning of the Armistice than hearing Tom once
+more on the night of November 11, 1918.
+
+ [Plate XX. Christ Church: "Tom" Tower]
+
+A patriotic tradition claims for Tom the honour of having inspired
+Milton's lines in "Il Penseroso":
+
+    "Hear the far-off curfew sound
+     Over some wide-watered, shore,
+     Swinging slow with sullen roar."
+
+But it is difficult to believe this; Milton's connection with Oxford
+does not get nearer than Forest Hill, and blow the west wind as hard
+as it would, it could scarcely make Tom's voice reach so far. And the
+"wide-watered shore" is only appropriate to Oxford in flood time, the
+very last season when a poet would wish to remember it.
+
+The view in Plate XX of the tower is taken from the front of
+Pembroke, and must have been often admired by Oxford's devoted son,
+Samuel Johnson, when, as a poor scholar of Pembroke, "he was
+generally to be seen (says his friend. Bishop Percy) lounging at the
+college gate, with a circle of young students round him, whom he was
+entertaining with his wit and keeping from their studies."
+
+
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+ [Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden Front]
+
+    "An English home--gray twilight poured
+       On dewy pastures, dewy trees,
+     Softer than sleep, all things in order stored,
+       The haunt of ancient Peace."
+                          TENNYSON, Palace of Art.
+
+St. John's shares with Trinity and Hertford the distinction of having
+been twice founded. As the Cistercian College of St. Bernard, it owed
+its origin to Archbishop Chichele, the founder of All Souls', and it
+continued to exist for a century as a monastic institution. At the
+Reformation it was swept away with other monastic foundations by the
+greed of Henry VIII, but it was almost immediately refounded, in the
+reign of Mary, by Sir Thomas White, one of the greatest of London's
+Lord Mayors. In all these respects it has an exact parallel in
+Trinity, which had existed as a Benedictine foundation, being then
+called "Durham College," and which was refounded, in the same dark
+period of English History, by another eminent Londoner, Sir Thomas
+Pope. It is characteristic of England and of the English Reformation
+that men, who were undoubtedly in sympathy with the old form of the
+Faith, yet gave their wealth and their labours to found institutions
+which were to serve English religion and English learning under the
+new order of things.
+
+For the first generation after the Founder, St. John's was torn by
+the quarrels between those who wished to undo the work of the
+Reformation altogether, and those who wished to carry it further and
+to destroy the continuity of English Church tradition. The final
+triumph of the Anglican "Via Media" was the work, above all others,
+of William Laud, who came up as scholar to St. John's in 1590, and
+who, for most of the half century that followed, was the predominant
+influence in the life of the University. First in his own college and
+then in Oxford generally, he secured the triumph of his views on
+religious doctrine and order. Of these, it is not the place to speak
+here, nor yet of Laud's services to Oxford as the restorer of
+discipline, the endower and encourager of learning, the organizer of
+academic life, whose statutes were to govern Oxford for more than two
+centuries; but it is indisputable that Laud takes one of the highest
+places on the roll of benefactors, both to the University as a whole
+and to his own college.
+
+It was fitting that one who did so much for St. John's should leave
+his mark on its buildings; the inner quadrangle was largely built by
+him, and it owes to him its most characteristic features, the two
+classic colonnades on its east and west sides, and the lovely garden
+front, one of the three most beautiful things in Oxford: the north-
+east corner of this is shown in Plate XXI.
+
+Laud's building work was done between 1631 and 1635, and in 1636
+Charles I and his Queen visited Oxford and were entertained in the
+newly-finished college. Much bad verse was written on this event, two
+lines of which as a specimen may be quoted from the quaintly-named
+poem, "Parnassus Biceps":
+
+    "Was I not blessed with Charles and Mary's name,
+     Names wherein dwells all music? 'Tis the same."
+
+The part of the entertainment to royalty on which the Archbishop
+specially prided himself was the play of The Hospital of Lovers,
+which was performed entirely by St. John's men, without "borrowing
+any one actor." Laud goes on to observe that, when the Queen borrowed
+the dresses and the scenery, and had it played over again by her
+players at Hampton Court, it was universally acknowledged that the
+professionals did not come up to the amateurs--a truly surprising and
+somewhat incredible verdict. St. John's, however, was always strong
+in dramatic ability; Shirley, the last great representative of the
+Elizabethan tradition, was a student there, and the library has the
+rare distinction of having possessed longest the same copy of the
+works of Shakespeare; it still has the second folio, presented in
+1638, by one of the fellows. St. John's connection with the lighter
+side of literature has lasted to our own day; the most famous of
+Oxford parodies is still the Oxford Spectator, which has not been
+surpassed by any of its many imitators in the last half century.
+
+Other colleges, however, might challenge the supremacy of St. John's
+in the humours of literature.. In the richness and beauty of its
+garden it stands unrivalled, whether quantity or quality be the basis
+of comparison. It is not only that before the east front, seen in
+Plate XXI, stretches the largest garden in Oxford; thanks to the
+skill and the care of the present garden-master, the Rev. H. J.
+Bidder, this shows from month to month, as the pageant of summer goes
+on, what wealth of colour and variety of bloom the English climate
+can produce. It may be said to be laid out on Bacon's rule: "There
+ought to be gardens for all months in the year, in which severally
+things of beauty may be then in season"; only for "year" we naturally
+must read "academic year." If Bacon is right, that a garden is the
+"purest of human pleasures," then, indeed, St. John's should be the
+Oxford paradise.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (1) THE BUILDINGS
+
+    "Here did Wren make himself a student home,
+       Or e'er he made a name that England loves;
+     I wonder if this straying shadow moves,
+       Adown the wall, as then he saw it roam."
+                                          A. UPSON.
+
+
+ [Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from the Garden]
+
+The buildings of Wadham College have been pronounced by some good
+judges to be the most beautiful in Oxford. This is not, however, the
+usual opinion, nor is it my own, though, perhaps, it might be
+accepted if modified into the statement that Wadham is the most
+complete and perfect example of the ordinary type of college. However
+that may be, there are three points as to these buildings which are
+indisputable, and which are also most interesting to any lover of
+English architecture. They are:
+    (1) Wadham is less altered than any other college in Oxford.
+    (2) It is the finest illustration of the fact that the Gothic
+        style survived in Oxford when it was being rapidly superseded
+        elsewhere.
+    (3) No building in Oxford (very few buildings anywhere) owe their
+        effect so completely to their simplicity and their absence of
+        adornment.
+
+These three points must be illustrated in detail.
+
+Wadham is the youngest college in Oxford, for all those that have
+been founded since are refoundations of older institutions (but, as
+its first stone was laid in 1610, it has a respectable antiquity);
+yet the Front Quad is completely unaltered in design, and of the
+actual stonework, hardly any has had to be renewed. Could the
+Foundress return to life, she would find the college, which was to
+her as a son, completely familiar.
+
+The second point is a more important one. In the reign of Elizabeth,
+classical architecture was being rapidly introduced; Gothic was
+giving way before the style of Palladio, even as the New Learning was
+banishing the schoolmen from the schools. This change is markedly
+seen in the Elizabethan buildings at Cambridge, especially in Dr.
+Caius' work, so far as it has been allowed to survive in the college
+that bears his name. But in Oxford the old style went on for half the
+following century; in the great building period of the first two
+Stuarts the old models were still faithfully copied. It was the
+genius of Wren, which, by its magnificent success in the Sheldonian,
+ultimately caused the new style to prevail over the late Gothic, of
+which his own college, Wadham, is so striking an example.
+
+In Wadham the conservative Oxford workmen were inspired by the
+presence of Somerset masons, whom the Foundress brought up from her
+own county, so rich in the splendid Gothic of the fifteenth century.
+Hence the chapel of Wadham (shown in Plate XXII) is to all intents
+and purposes the choir of a great Somerset church. So marked is the
+old style in its windows that some of the best authorities on
+architecture have maintained that the stonework of these could not
+have been made in the seventeenth century, but must have survived
+from some older building; Ferguson, the historian of architecture,
+when confronted with the fact that the college has still the detailed
+accounts showing how, week by week, the Jacobean masons worked, swept
+this evidence aside with the dictum--"No amount of documents could
+prove what was impossible." But here the "impossible" really
+happened.
+
+The permanence of Gothic in Oxford is a point for professional
+students; the studied simplicity, which is the great secret of
+Wadham's beauty, concerns everyone. The effect of the garden front is
+produced simply by the long lines of the string-courses and by the
+procession of the beautifully proportioned gables. Neither here nor
+in any part of the college is there a piece of carved work, except in
+the classical screen, which marks the entry to the hall. It may be
+noted that at Wadham and at Clare, Cambridge, the same effect is
+produced by the same means; different as the two colleges are, the
+one Gothic, the other classical, they have a restful and complete
+beauty which makes them specially attractive. And this is due more
+than anything else to the unbroken lines of the stonework, to which
+everything is kept in due subordination. Clare was building during
+half a century; Wadham was finished in three years; but both have
+been fortunate in being left alone; they have not been "improved" by
+later additions.
+
+The chapel at Wadham has another feature of great interest for those
+who visit it; the glass in it (not that in the ante-chapel) is all
+contemporary with the college, and is a first-rate example of the
+taste of early Stuart times. The apostles and the prophets of the
+side windows have few merits, except their age, and the fact that
+they illustrate what local craftsmen could do in the reign of James
+I; but the big east window is of a very different rank. The college
+authorities quarrelled with the local workmen, and introduced a
+foreign craftsman, Bernard van Ling from London. In our day he would
+have been called a "blackleg," and mobbed: perhaps, even in the
+seventeenth century, he needed protection, for the college built him
+a furnace in their garden, and he there produced the finest specimen
+of seventeenth century glass that Oxford can show. Even for those who
+are not students of glass, the Wadham windows are attractive with
+their two Jonahs and two whales, "The big one that swallowed Jonah,
+and the little one that Jonah swallowed" (to quote an old college
+jest).
+
+The gardens at Wadham are famous; they have not the magnificence of
+St. John's or the antiquarian charm of the old walls at New College
+or Merton; but, for the variety and fine growth of their trees, they
+are unsurpassed, though the glory of these is passing. Warden Wills
+planted them in the days of the French Revolution, and trees have
+their time to fall at last, even though they long survive their
+planters.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "But these were merciful men, whose righteousness
+     hath not been forgotten. . . . Their bodies are buried
+     in peace; but their name liveth for evermore."
+                            /Ecclesiasticus/, xliv. 10, 14.
+
+The collection of pictures In Wadham Hall is probably the best of any
+college in Oxford--always, of course, excepting Christ Church. It has
+no single picture to be compared with the "Thomas Warton" at
+Trinity, or the "Dr. Johnson" at Pembroke (both excellent works of
+Reynolds), nor does it give so many fine examples of the work of
+recent artists as do Trinity or Balliol; but it makes up for these
+deficiencies by the number and the variety of its pictures.
+
+Two only of the men they represent can be said to attain to the first
+rank among England's worthies--Robert Blake, second as an admiral
+only to Nelson and Oxford's greatest fighting man until the present
+war, and Christopher Wren, "that prodigious young scholar" (as John
+Evelyn calls him), who, as has been well said, would have been second
+only to Newton among English mathematicians had he not chosen rather
+to be indisputably the first of British architects. It is interesting
+to note that Wadham shares with All Souls' two of the greatest names
+in the Scientific Revival of the seventeenth century: both Wren and
+Thomas Sydenham, the physician, migrated from Wadham to fellowships
+at All Souls'.
+
+Their connection with Wadham is part of what is probably the most
+interesting single episode in the college history. When the
+Parliament triumphed, and the King's partisans were turned out of
+Oxford, the Lodgings at Wadham were given to the most distinguished
+of her Wardens, John Wilkins, who, no doubt, owed his promotion to
+the fact that he was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. In his
+own day everyone knew him; he was a moderate man, who interceded for
+Royalist scholars under the Commonwealth, and tempered the penal laws
+to Non-Conformists, when later he was Bishop of Chester. He was even
+better known to the "philosophers" as the inventor of a universal
+language and as curious for every advance in Natural Science. But, in
+our day, he is only remembered for his connection with the Royal
+Society; that most illustrious body grew out of the meetings held
+weekly at his Lodgings and the similar meetings held in London; when
+later these two movements were united, Wilkins was secretary of the
+committee which drew up the rules for their future organization, and
+thus prepared the way for the Royal Charter, given to the Society in
+1662. When the Royal Society celebrated its 250th anniversary in
+1912, many of its members made a pilgrimage to "its cradle" (or what
+was, at any rate, "/one/ of its cradles").
+
+Wadham also produced, among other early members of the Royal Society,
+its historian, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, who somehow, as
+"Pindaric Sprat" (he was the friend and also the editor of /Abraham
+Cowley/), found his way into Johnson's /Lives of the Poets/; he is,
+however, more likely to be remembered because his subserviency, when
+he was Dean of Westminster to James II, has earned him an unenviable
+place in Macaulay's gallery of Revolution worthies and unworthies.
+Sprat, it should be added, was an exception to the prevailing Whig
+tradition of Wadham, which found a worthy exponent in Arthur Onslow,
+the greatest Speaker of the House of Commons, who ruled over that
+august body for a record period, thirty-four years (1727-1761), and
+formed its rules and traditions in the period when it was first
+asserting its claim to govern.
+
+ [Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall Interior]
+
+Two centuries later than the Royal Society days at Wadham, another
+group of philosophers was trained there, who thought that the views
+of their master, Auguste Comte, were going to make as great a
+revolution in human thought as the views of a Bacon or a Newton. All
+the leading English Positivists were at Wadham--Congreve, Beesley,
+Bridges, Frederic Harrison, of whom the last alone survives, to fight
+with undiminished vigour for the causes which he championed in Mid-
+Victorian days. Positivism had less influence than its adherents
+expected, but it powerfully affected for a time the political and the
+religious thought of England.
+
+Forty years later another famous group of young men were at Wadham
+together. As they are all alive, it is impossible, and would be
+unbecoming, to estimate what their influence on English life and
+thought will be; but it was a curious coincidence that sent to Wadham
+together, in the 'nineties, Lord Birkenhead, who reached the Woolsack
+at the earliest age on record; Sir John Simon, who, if he had wished,
+could have lowered that record still further, and C. B. Fry, once a
+household name as the greatest of British athletes.
+
+Three groups of Wadham men have been spoken of; one other name must
+be mentioned of one who stood alone at college, and for a long time
+in the world outside, in his attitude to the social problems of our
+day. Whatever may be the future of the Settlement movement, its
+leader, Samuel Barnett, "Barnett of Whitechapel," is not to be
+forgotten, for his name is associated as a pioneer and an inspiring
+force with every movement of educational and social advance in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century. M. Clemenceau, no friendly
+judge of the ministers of any religious body, pronounced him one of
+the three greatest men he had met in England. Certainly he was great,
+if greatness means to anticipate the problems of the future before
+the rest of the world sees their urgency, and to make real
+contributions to their solution.
+
+It has been a feature of the history of Oxford that every college
+has, from time to time, come to the front as the special home and
+source of some movement. There has never been the overshadowing
+concentration of men and of wealth, which has given a more one-sided
+direction to the history of Cambridge. Hence the strength of the
+college system; every college has its traditions to live up to, its
+great names to cherish, and Wadham is, certainly, by no means last or
+least in these respects.
+
+
+
+
+HERTFORD COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Outspake the (Warden) roundly:
+      'The bridge must straight go down;
+     For if they once should get the bridge ...'"
+                     MACAULAY, /Horatius/, adapted.
+
+Academic bridges, over the Cam or elsewhere, are a great feature at
+Cambridge. At Oxford they were unknown till this century, when
+University first of all threw its modest little arch over Logic Lane;
+later, in 1913. the "Bridge of Sighs," which forms the subject of
+Plate XXIV, was completed. There was a hard struggle before leave
+could be obtained from the City Council for thus bridging a public
+thoroughfare; University only maintained their claim to a bridge by a
+long lawsuit, in which the college rights were firmly established by
+the production of charters, which went back to the reign of King
+John. The great opposition to the Hertford Bridge was said to be due
+to regard for the feelings of the old Warden of New College, who
+considered that it would injure the view of his college bell-tower.
+Whether this story be true or not, Hertford obtained its permission
+at last, and Sir Thomas Jackson added a new attraction to Oxford's
+buildings. His genius has been especially shown in triumphing over
+the difficulties of the Hertford site, for it was no easy thing to
+unite into a harmonious whole, buildings so various; his new chapel--
+opened in 1908--is worthy to rank with the best classic architecture
+in Oxford.
+
+The variety of the Hertford buildings only reflects the chequered
+history of the foundations that have occupied them. As early as the
+thirteenth century Hart Hall stood on this site. In the eighteenth
+century this old hall was turned into a college by an Oxford
+reformer, Dr. Newton. But unfortunately Newton's endowments were not
+equal to his ambition, and the first Hertford /College/ fell into
+such decay that finally its buildings were transferred to an entirely
+different foundation, Magdalen Hall. Almost immediately afterwards,
+old Magdalen Hall, which stood close to Magdalen College, was burned
+down, and the society sold their site, thus made empty, to their
+wealthy namesake, and migrated, in 1822, to what had formerly been
+Hertford College. Finally, in 1874, Magdalen Hall was re-endowed by
+the head of the great financial house of Baring as "Hertford College"
+once more.
+
+This college then unites the traditions of two old halls, and of its
+own predecessor, and from all of them it derives some famous names.
+Hart Hall was the home of John Selden, one of the greatest of English
+scholars; Hertford College had an undistinguished English prime
+minister in Henry Pelham, and a most distinguished leader of
+opposition in Charles James Foxe; while Magdalen Hall was even more
+rich in traditions, as being the home of the translator of the Bible,
+William Tyndale, as the centre of Puritan strength in the Laudian
+days, when from its ranks were filled the vacancies all over Oxford
+caused by the expulsions of Royalists, and finally as having trained
+Lord Clarendon, famous as Charles II's minister, still more famous as
+the historian, whose monumental work was one of the first endowments
+of the Oxford Press.
+
+All these traditions are now concentrated in the one college, and, as
+has been said, the buildings have been greatly extended to meet the
+needs of the new foundation. When Hertford College is completed
+according to the plans already drawn by Sir Thomas Jackson, it will
+reach from All Souls' to Holywell. This last northern part of its
+front has been delayed by the European War.
+
+The new--or, rather, the revived--college has, as yet, hardly had
+time to make Oxford history, but the influence of its second
+Principal. Dr. Boyd, whose long reign, happily not yet over, began in
+1877, has had the result of finding for Oxford new benefactors in one
+of the wealthiest of the London City Companies; the Drapers'
+magnificent gifts of the new Science Library and of the Electrical
+Laboratory are good instances to show that the days of the "pious
+founder" are not yet over.
+
+ [Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The Bridge]
+
+
+
+
+ST. EDMUND HALL
+
+
+    "Or wander down an ancient street
+     Where mingling ages quaintly meet,
+     Tower and battlement, dome and gable
+     Mellowed by time to a picture sweet."
+                                    A. G. BUTLER.
+
+The group of buildings, shown in Plate XXV, is not only picturesque--
+it also illustrates Oxford history from more than one point of view.
+
+The apse of the Chapel of Queen's on the left belongs to a building
+already spoken of, which is the most perfect example of a small
+basilican church in Oxford. The church tower in the centre, though
+itself dating from the fourteenth century, is the most modern part of
+one of the oldest churches in Oxford, St. Peter in the East. The
+crypt and the chancel of this church go back to the time of the
+Conquest, and are probably the work of Robert d'Oili, to whom William
+the Conqueror gave the city of Oxford; he was first an oppressor and
+then a benefactor; in the former character, he built the castle keep,
+still standing near the station; in the latter, he was the builder,
+besides St. Peter, of the churches of St. Michael and of the Holy
+Cross; parts of his work survive in all three.
+
+The churchyard, at all events, of St. Peter in the East, deserves a
+visit, lying as it does between the beautiful garden of New College
+and the picturesque buildings of St. Edmund Hall.
+
+Before this last foundation is spoken of, a word must be said as to
+the road round which these three buildings are grouped--Queen's Lane.
+It survives, almost unaltered, from Pre-Reformation Oxford, and,
+winding as it does its narrow way between high walls, it is an
+interesting specimen of the "lanes" which threaded mediaeval Oxford,
+a city in which the High Street and, to a smaller extent, Cornmarket
+Street were the only real thoroughfares; the rest of the city was a
+network of narrow ways.
+
+But from the historic point of view, the most interesting part of the
+picture is its right side, where stand the buildings of St. Edmund
+Hall. This is the only survival of the system of residence in the
+earliest University, of the Oxford which knew not the college system.
+
+Before the days of "pious founders," the students had to provide
+their own places of residence, and very early the custom grew up of
+their living together in "halls," sometimes managed by a non-academic
+owner, but often under the superintendence of some resident Master of
+Arts, who was responsible, not for the teaching, but, at any rate in
+part, for the discipline of the inmates of his hall. These halls had
+at first no endowments and no permanent existence; they depended for
+their continuity on the person of their head. Gradually they became
+more organized; but when once the college system had been introduced,
+it tended, by its superior wealth and efficiency, to render the
+"halls" less and less important. They lost even the one element of
+self-government which they had once had, the right of their members
+to elect their own Principal; this right was usurped by the
+Chancellor. Hence, though five of the halls were surviving at the
+time of the University Commission (of 1850), all of them but St.
+Edmund Hall have now disappeared.
+
+In theory, "hall" and "college" have much in common; one Cambridge
+college indeed has retained the name of "hall," and two of the
+women's colleges in Oxford have preferred to keep the old style. In
+practice, their difference lies in the two facts that colleges are
+wealthier, with more endowments, and that they are self-governing,
+with Fellows who co-opt to vacancies in their own body and elect
+their head. St. Edmund Hall has its head appointed by the fellows of
+Queen's, with which institution it has long been connected.
+
+ [Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and St. Edmund Hall]
+
+The origin of this hall is an unsolved problem: it derives its name
+according to one theory from Edmund Rich, the last Archbishop of
+Canterbury to be canonized, and probably the first recorded Doctor of
+Divinity at Oxford. But this theory is very doubtful, and Hearne,
+most famous of Oxford antiquarians, and probably the best known
+member of St. Edmund Hall, did not believe it. In any case, most of
+the buildings of the hall date long after St. Edmund, and belong to
+the middle of the seventeenth century. Hearne himself is sufficient
+to give interest to any foundation. He was a great scholar and a
+careful editor of the early English Chroniclers in days when learning
+was decaying in Oxford; even now his work as an editor is not
+altogether superseded. But it is not to this that he owes his fame;
+it is rather to the fact that he has high rank among the diarists of
+England, and the first place among those of Oxford. For thirty years
+(1705-1735) in which latter year he died, he poured into his diary
+everything that interested him--scholarly notes, political rumours,
+personal scandal, remarks on manners and customs. The 150 volumes
+came into the possession of his fellow Jacobite, Richard Rawlinson,
+the greatest of the benefactors of the Bodleian, and only now are
+they being fully edited; ten volumes have been issued by the Oxford
+Historical Society, and still there are a few more years of his life
+to cover. As a specimen of Hearne's style may be quoted his remarks,
+when the sermon on Christmas Day, 1732, was postponed till 11 a.m.
+
+"The true reason is that people might lie in bed the longer. . . .
+The same reason hath made them, in almost all places in the
+University, alter the times of prayer, and the hour of dinner (which
+used to be 11 o'clock) in almost every place (Christ Church must be
+excepted); which ancient discipline and learning and piety strangely
+decay." Hearne was critical rather of past history than of present-
+day rumour; he records complacently (in 1706) that at Whitchurch,
+when the dissenters had prepared a great quantity of bricks "to erect
+a capacious conventicle, a destroying angel came by night and spoyled
+them all, and confounded their Babel." Hearne would by no means have
+approved of the Methodist principles of six members of his hall in
+the next generation, who were expelled for their religious views
+(1768). A furious controversy, with many pamphlets, raged over them,
+and the Public Orator of the University wrote a bulky indictment of
+them, which was answered by another pamphlet with the picturesque
+title of "Goliath Slain." Pamphleteers were more free in their
+language in those days than they are now.
+
+The hall has always been a strong religious centre, and plays a very
+useful part in the University--by giving to poor men, seeking Holy
+Orders, a real Oxford education, based on the true Oxford principle
+of community of life.
+
+
+
+IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+    "Thames, the best loved of all old Ocean's sons,
+     Of his old sire, to his embraces runs . . .
+     Though deep, yet clear, through gentle yet not dull,
+     Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
+                                         SIR J. DENHAM.
+
+ [Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill]
+
+The subject of Plate XXVI is no longer in existence; it was burned
+to the ground some years ago, and has never been rebuilt--for steam
+has rendered unprofitable the old-fashioned water mills such as it
+was. Yet the very fact that Iffley Mill is no more perhaps renders it
+the more appropriate subject for a series of Oxford pictures. It
+claims a place among them, not for its beauty, picturesque though it
+was, but as a symbol of the open-air pursuits of Oxford, which play
+so large a part in the lives of her sons. And as those pursuits are
+so diverse, and cannot all be directly pictured, it is fitting that
+they should be represented by a picture which is a symbol of them
+all, by a picture of something no longer existing, not introduced for
+itself, but suggesting whole fields of varied activity, different and
+yet all akin.
+
+This may be fanciful, but the part played by open-air sports in the
+life of Oxford is a great reality. Yet, in their present organized
+form, they are a feature of quite, modern times. Fifty years ago,
+football as a college sport in Oxford was only beginning; the men are
+still living, and not octogenarians, who introduced their "school
+games"--"Rugby," "Eton Wall game," etc.--at Oxford. Golf was left to
+Scotchmen, hockey to small boys, La Crosse had not yet come from
+beyond the Atlantic. Cricket and rowing were the only organized
+games, and even in these the inter-University contests are
+comparative novelties; the first boat race against Cambridge was
+rowed in 1829, and it has only been an annual fixture since 1856.
+
+Several results followed from this. In the first place, the very
+sense of the word "sportsman" was different. Now it means a man who
+can play well some, one at least, of the games that all men play;
+then, it had its old meaning of a man who could shoot, or ride, or
+fish, or do all these.
+
+Again, as cricket is always a game for the few, and as the rowing
+authorities, by the time the summer term begins, had selected their
+chosen followers and left the rest of the world free, there was far
+more walking, and consequently more knowledge of the country round
+the city, than is the rule now. The long rambles which play so
+prominent a part in Oxford biographies, such as Stanley's /Life of
+Arnold/, were still the fashion, while of those who could afford to
+ride, certainly many more availed themselves of the privilege than do
+now.
+
+So far as games themselves were concerned, their cost was far less.
+College matches away from Oxford were almost unknown; college
+grounds, which were still quite a new thing in the middle of last
+century, were nearly all concentrated on Cowley Marsh, and the
+somewhat heavy contribution from all undergraduates, now generally
+collected by the college authorities in "battels" and become semi-
+official, was not dreamed of. Those who played paid, and the rest of
+the college got off easily. And games were much more games than they
+are now, and less of institutions; the "professional amateur," who
+comes up with a public school reputation to get his "blue," was
+almost unknown, and certainly, so far as rowing was concerned, any
+powerful man with broad shoulders and a sound heart was a likely
+candidate for the University Boat. The days were not dreamed of when
+the fortunes of Oxford and Cambridge on the river depended largely on
+the choice of a University by members of the Eton Eight.
+
+But there is of course another side to the development of Oxford
+athletics. Perhaps the most important point is that play is the
+greatest social leveller. It is easy to attend the same lectures as a
+man, and even to sit at the same table with him in hall, and not to
+know him well, because his clothes and his accent are not quite
+correct. But in these days when so many games are played, and when
+competition is so keen, any man who can do anything gets his chance;
+and many are the instances every year of men who would never have
+made friends in their colleges outside a small circle, had not their
+quickness as half-backs, or their ability as slow bowlers, brought
+their contemporaries to recognize their merits. You cannot play with
+a man without knowing him, and young Oxford is democratic at heart,
+and when once it knows a man, it does not trouble about the non-
+essentials of wealth and fashion.
+
+And again, though it may seem a paradox to say it, the amount of play
+in Oxford has increased the amount of work. Organized games mean
+physical fitness, and physical fitness means ability to get
+intellectual work done. Perhaps it may be argued that the absorption
+in athletics deadens all intellectual life, and that many Oxford men
+read only and discuss only the sporting news in the papers; this no
+doubt has a strange fascination, even for men who do not play; one of
+the most distinguished of Oxford statesmen of the last generation,
+himself so blind that he could not hit a ball, confessed to me that
+he always, in the summer, read the cricket news in /The Times/ before
+he read anything else. But he and many other Oxford men read
+something else, too. And it may be maintained without question that
+the hard exercise, which is the fashion in Oxford, tends to keep
+men's bodies healthy and to raise the moral tone of the place. Oxford
+and Cambridge may not be what they should be in morals, but they
+compare very favourably in this respect with other towns.
+
+All this seems a far cry from Iffley Mill; but Iffley means to an
+Oxford man, not so much the picturesque village, nor even its gem of
+a Norman Church that towers above the lock, but the place where
+Eights and Torpids start for the races. And the boating, which is so
+associated with the name of Iffley, is still--and long may it be so--
+the queen of Oxford sports. To succeed as an oar, a man has to learn
+to sacrifice the present to the future, to scorn delights and live
+laborious days, to work together with others, and to sink his
+individuality in the common cause. These are great qualities, and
+therefore in any book on Oxford, the picture, which recalls them and
+is their symbol, has a right to a place.
+
+
+                      Printed in Great Britain.
+             Letterpress by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh.
+    Plates engraved and printed by Henry Stone & Son, Ltd., Banbury.
+
+
+ [OXFORD FROM THE EAST (End papers)]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Charm of Oxford
+
+Author: J. Wells
+
+Release Date: August 22, 2004 [EBook #13245]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHARM OF OXFORD ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Philip H Hitchcock
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<h1>THE CHARM OF OXFORD</h1>
+<h5>by</h5>
+<h2>J. WELLS, M.A.</h2>
+<h5>Warden of Wadham College, Oxford</h5>
+<h5>Illustrated by</h5>
+<h2>W. G. BLACKALL</h2>
+<h5>Second Edition (Revised)</h5>
+<h3>SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON<br>
+KENT &amp; CO., LTD., 4 STATIONERS'<br>
+HALL COURT : : LONDON, E.C.4</h3>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"'Home of lost causes'&mdash;this is Oxford's blame;
+    'Mother of movements'&mdash;this, too, boasteth she;
+  In the same walls, the same yet not the same,
+    She welcomes those who lead the age-to-be."
+</pre>
+<h5><i>Copyright<br>
+First published 1920<br>
+Second edition 1921</i></h5>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Much have ye suffered from time's gnawing tooth,
+ Yet, O ye spires of Oxford domes and towers,
+ Gardens and groves, your presence overpowers
+ The soberness of reason."
+                            WORDSWORTH.
+</pre>
+<a name="p1"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p1.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"473" height="372" border="3" alt=
+"Plate I. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Garden"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate I. Christ Church : The Cathedral from
+the Garden</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3>PREFACE</h3>
+<p>There are many books on Oxford; the justification for this new
+one is Mr. Blackall's drawings. They will serve by their grace and
+charm pleasantly to recall to those who know Oxford the scenes they
+love; they will incite those who do not know Oxford to remedy that
+defect in their lives.</p>
+<p>My own letterpress is only written to accompany the drawings. It
+is intended to remind Oxford men of the things they know or ought
+to know; it is intended still more to help those who have not
+visited Oxford to understand the drawings and to appreciate some of
+the historical associations of the scenes represented.</p>
+<p>I have written quite freely, as this seemed the best way to
+create the "impression" wished. I have to acknowledge some
+obligations to Messrs. Seccombe &amp; Scott's <i>Praise of
+Oxford,</i> a book the pages of which an Oxford man can always turn
+over with pleasure, and to Mr. J. B. Firth's <i>Minstrelsy of
+Isis;</i> it is not his fault that the poetic merit of so much of
+his collection is poor. Oxford has not on the whole been fortunate
+in her poets. My own quotations are more often chosen for their
+local colour than for their poetic merit.</p>
+<p>I have unavoidably had to borrow a good deal from my own
+<i>Oxford and its Colleges,</i> but the aim of the two books is
+very different.</p>
+<h4>WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD,<br>
+ <i>April 1920.</i></h4>
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<p><a href="#Introduction">INTRODUCTION</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#RadcliffeSquare">RADCLIFFE SQUARE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BroadStreet">THE BROAD STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BalliolC">BALLIOL COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MertonC">MERTON COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MertonL">MERTON LIBRARY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#OrielC">ORIEL COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#QueensC">QUEEN'S COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#NewC1">NEW COLLEGE: (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#NewC2">NEW COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#LincolnC">LINCOLN COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MagdalenC1">MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (1) SITE AND
+BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#MagdalenC2">MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#BrasenoseC">BRASENOSE COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#CorpusC">CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC1">CHRIST CHURCH: (1) THE CATHEDRAL</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC2">CHRIST CHURCH: (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#ChristC3">CHRIST CHURCH: (3) "TOM" TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#StJohnsC">ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#WadhamC1">WADHAM COLLEGE: (1) THE BUILDINGS</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#WadhamC2">WADHAM COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#HertfordC">HERTFORD COLLEGE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#StEdmundH">ST. EDMUND HALL</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#IffleyM">IFFLEY MILL</a><br>
+<br>
+</p>
+<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<p><br>
+<a href="#p1">I. CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE
+GARDEN</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p2">II. ST. MARY'S SPIRE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p3">III. VIEW IN RADCLIFFE SQUARE</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p4">IV. SHELDONIAN THEATRE, ETC., BROAD STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p5">V. BALLIOL COLLEGE, BROAD STREET FRONT</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p6">VI. MERTON COLLEGE, THE TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p7">VII. MERTON COLLEGE, THE LIBRARY INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p8">VIII. ORIEL COLLEGE AND ST. MARY'S CHURCH</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p9">IX. HIGH STREET</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p10">X. NEW COLLEGE, THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY</a><br>
+<br>
+ <a href="#p11">XI. NEW COLLEGE, THE TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p12">XII. LINCOLN COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p13">XIII. MAGDALEN TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p14">XIV. MAGDALEN COLLEGE, THE OPEN AIR PULPIT</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p15">XV. BRASENOSE COLLEGE, QUADRANGLE AND THE RADCLIFFE
+LIBRARY</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p16">XVI. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, THE FIRST
+QUADRANGLE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p17">XVII. CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE
+MEADOW</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p18">XVIII. CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL STAIRCASE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p19">XIX. CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p20">XX. CHRIST CHURCH, "TOM" TOWER</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p21">XXI. ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE GARDEN FRONT</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p22">XXII. WADHAM COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL FROM THE
+GARDEN</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p23">XXIII. WADHAM COLLEGE, THE HALL INTERIOR</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p24">XXIV. HERTFORD COLLEGE, THE BRIDGE</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p25">XXV. ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH AND ST. EDMUND
+HALL</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#p26">XXVI. IFFLEY, THE OLD MILL</a><br>
+<br>
+<a href="#pend">OXFORD FROM THE EAST</a></p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="Introduction" id="Introduction">INTRODUCTION</a></h3>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p>In what does the charm of Oxford consist? Why does she stand out
+among the cities of the world as one of those most deserving a
+visit? It can hardly be said to be for the beauty of her natural
+surroundings. In spite of the charm of her</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Rivers twain of gentle foot that pass
+            Through the rich meadow-land of long green grass,"
+</pre>
+<p>in spite of her trees and gardens, which attract a visitor,
+especially one from the more barren north, Oxford must yield the
+palm of natural beauty to many English towns, not to mention those
+more remote.</p>
+<p>But she has every other claim, and first, perhaps, may be
+mentioned that of historic interest.</p>
+<p>An Englishman who knows anything of history is not likely to
+forget of how many striking events in the development of his
+country Oxford has been the scene. The element of romance is
+furnished early in her story by the daring escape of the
+Empress-Queen, Matilda, from Oxford Castle. The Provisions of
+Oxford (1258) were the work of one of the most famous Parliaments
+of the thirteenth century, the century which saw the building of
+the English constitution, and the students of the University fought
+for the cause which those Provisions represented. The burning of
+the martyr bishops in the sixteenth century is one of the greatest
+tragedies in the story of our Church. The seventeenth century saw
+Oxford the capital of Royalist England in the Civil War, and though
+there was no actual fighting there, Charles' night march in 1644
+from Oxford to the West, between the two enclosing armies of Essex
+and Waller, is one of the most famous military movements ever
+carried out in our comparatively peaceful island. The Parliamentary
+history, too, of Oxford in the seventeenth century is full of
+interest, for it was there that in 1625 Charles' first Parliament
+met in the Divinity School. And fifty years later, his son, Charles
+II, triumphed over the Whig Parliament at Oxford, which was trying
+by factious violence to force the Exclusion Bill on a reluctant
+king and nation. Few towns beside London have been the scene of so
+many great historical events; yet any one who looks below the
+surface will attach less importance to these than to the great
+changes in thought which have found in Oxford their inspiration,
+and which make it a city of pilgrimage for those interested in the
+development of England's real life. Matthew Arnold's famous
+description, hackneyed though it is by quotation, gives one aspect
+of Oxford, an aspect which will appeal to many beside the scholar
+poet:</p>
+<p>"Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the
+fierce intellectual life of our century, so serene!</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           'There are our young barbarians, all at play.'
+</pre>
+<p>And yet, steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens
+to the moonlight, and whispering' from her towers the last
+enchantments of the Middle Ages, who will deny that Oxford, by her
+ineffable charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of
+all of us, to the ideal, to perfection&mdash;to beauty, in a word,
+which is only truth seen from another side?"</p>
+<p>But this is not the real intellectual charm of Oxford, which has
+been ever the centre of strenuous life, rather than of dilettante
+dreamings. From the very beginning, she has been a city of
+"Movements." Some visitors, then, will come to Oxford as the home
+and the burial-place of Roger Bacon, representing as he does the
+Franciscan Order, with its Christ-like sympathy for the poor and
+its early attempts to develop the knowledge of Natural Science;
+Oxford was in the thirteenth century the great centre of the
+Friars' movement in England. Others will remember that in the next
+century it produced, in John Wycliffe, the great opponent of the
+Friars, the man who, as the first of the Reformers, is to many the
+most interesting figure in mediaeval English religious history. In
+the sixteenth century, Oxford plays no great part in the actual
+revolution in the English Church; yet it will be a place attractive
+to many who cherish the memory of the "Oxford Reformers," the
+members of Erasmus' circle&mdash;John Colet, Thomas More, William
+Grocyn, and other scholars&mdash;who hoped by sound learning to
+amend the Church without violent change. Some, on the other hand,
+will see in the sixteenth-century Oxford, the school which trained
+men for the Counter-Reformation, such as the heroic Jesuit,
+Campion, or Cardinal Alien, the founder of the English College at
+Douai. The Anglican "Via Media" found its special representatives
+in Oxford in Jewel and Hooker, and in Laud, the practical genius
+who carried out its principles in the Church administration of his
+day. It was fitting that the movement for the revival of Church
+teaching in England in the nineteenth century should be an Oxford
+movement, and Newman's pulpit at St. Mary's and the chapel of Oriel
+College are sacred in the eyes of Anglicans all over the world. In
+the interval between Laud and Newman, Church principles had found a
+different development in another Oxford man; John Wesley's
+character and spiritual life were built up in Oxford, till he went
+forth to do the work of an Evangelist during more than half of the
+eighteenth century. Wycliffe, More, Hooker, Laud, Wesley, Newman,
+these are not the names of men who have affected the religious
+history of the world as did Luther, Calvin or Ignatius Loyola; but
+they have affected profoundly the religious life of the
+English-speaking race, and Oxford must ever be a sacred place for
+their sakes.</p>
+<p>And Oxford has been the starting-point of other than religious
+movements. No place in England has such a claim on the Englishmen
+of the New World as has Oxford. It was there that Richard Hakluyt
+taught geography, and collected in part his wonderful store of the
+tales of enterprise beyond the sea. Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his
+half-brother, Sir Walter Raleigh, both Oxford men, were the
+founders of English colonization. By their failures they showed the
+way to success later, and Calvert in Maryland, Penn in
+Pennsylvania, John Locke in the Carolinas, and Oglethorpe in
+Georgia are all Oxford men who rank as founders of States in the
+great Union of the West. And in our own day, Cecil Rhodes has once
+more proved that the academic dreamer can go out and advance the
+development of a great continent. By his magnificent foundation of
+scholarships at Oxford, he showed that he considered his old
+university a formative influence of the greatest importance in
+world history. Oxford with reason puts up one tablet to mark his
+lodgings in the city, and another to commemorate him in her stately
+Examination Schools.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p2"></a><a name="Plate II"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p2.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="487" border="3" alt="Plate II. St. Mary's Spire"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate II. St. Mary's Spire</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>But there are many to whom the past, whether in the realm of
+action or in the realm of ideas, does not appeal, whether it be
+from lack of knowledge or from lack of sympathy. To some of these
+Oxford makes a different appeal as perhaps the best place in
+England for studying the development of English architecture. The
+early Norman work of the Castle and St. Michael's, the Transition
+work of the cathedral, the very early lancet windows of St. Giles'
+Church (consecrated by the great St. Hugh of Lincoln himself), the
+Decorated Style as seen in St. Mary's spire and in Merton chapel,
+the glories of the specially English style, the Perpendicular, in
+Wykeham's work at New College and in Magdalen Tower, the Tudor
+magnificence of Wolsey's work at Christ Church, the last flower of
+Gothic at Wadham and at St. John's, the triumph of Wren's genius,
+alike in the classical style at the Sheldonian and in "Gothic" as
+in Tom Tower, the Classical work of Hawkesmore at Queen's and of
+Gibbs in the Radcliffe, the wonderful beauty of Mr. Bodley's modern
+Gothic in St. Swithun's Quad at Magdalen, and the skilful
+adaptation of old English tradition to modern needs by Sir Thomas
+Jackson at Trinity and at Hertford&mdash;what other city can show
+such a series of architectural beauties? And it must not be
+forgotten that Oxford disputes with York the honour of having the
+most representative sequence of painted glass windows in England.
+Oxford, indeed, is a paradise for the student of Art. Nowhere,
+except at Cambridge, can the series of architectural works be
+paralleled, and at both universities the charm of their ancient
+buildings is enhanced by their beautiful setting in college
+gardens.</p>
+<p>It is not an accident that in the old universities more than
+anywhere else, so much of beauty has survived, nor is it to be put
+down as a happy piece of academic conservatism. It is rather the
+natural result of their constitution and endowment. What has been
+so fatal to the beauty of old England elsewhere has been material
+prosperity. The buildings inherited from the past had to go, at
+least so it was thought, because they were not suited to modern
+methods, or because the site they occupied was worth so much more
+for other purposes. But the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge could
+not carry on their work on different sites; "residence" was an
+essential of academic arrangements; and there was no temptation to
+the fellows of a college to make money by parting with their old
+buildings, for their incomes were determined by Statute, and any
+great increase of wealth would not advantage individual fellows.
+Hence, while great nobles and great merchants sold their splendid
+houses and grounds, and grew rich on the unearned increment, and
+while non-residential universities moved bodily from their old
+positions to new and more fashionable quarters, Oxford and
+Cambridge colleges went on working and living in the same places.
+Much the same reasons have preserved, in many old towns,
+picturesque alms-houses, to show the modern world how beautiful
+buildings once could be, while all around them reigns opulent
+ugliness. Certain it is that only in one instance, in recent times,
+has an Oxford college contemplated selling its old site and
+buildings and migrating to North Oxford, and then the sacrilegious
+attempt was outvoted. Hence, as has been said, the two old English
+Universities possess in an unique degree the</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Strange enchantments of the past
+            And memories of the days of old."
+</pre>
+<p>The charms of Oxford for the historical student and for the
+lover of Art have been spoken of. But a large part of the world
+comes under neither head; to it the charm of Oxford consists in the
+young lives that are continually passing through it. Oxford and
+Cambridge present ever attractive contrasts between their young
+students and their old buildings, between the first enthusiasm of
+ever new generations, and customs and rules which date back to
+mediaeval times.</p>
+<p>But apart from the charm of contrast, Oxford has everything to
+make life attractive for young men. It is true that the old
+buildings combine with a dignity a millionaire could not surpass a
+standard of material comfort which in some respects is below that
+of an up-to-date workhouse. An amusing instance has occurred of
+this during the war. The students of one of the women's colleges,
+expelled from their own modern buildings, which had been turned
+into a hospital, became tenants of half of one of the oldest
+colleges. It was very romantic thus to gain admission to the real
+Oxford, but the students soon found that it was very uncomfortable
+to have their baths in an out-of-the-way corner of the college. And
+baths themselves are but a modern institution at Oxford; at one or
+two colleges still the old "tub in one's room" is the only system
+of washing. Perhaps this instance may be thought frivolous, but it
+is typical of Oxford, which has been described, with some
+exaggeration in both words, as a home of "barbaric luxury."</p>
+<p>But after all, comfort in the material sense is the least
+important element in completeness of life. Oxford has everything
+else, except, it is true, a bracing climate. She has society of
+every kind, in which a man ranks on his merits, not on his
+possessions; he is valued for what he is, not for what he has; she
+gives freedom to her sons to live their own life, with just
+sufficient restraint to add piquancy to freedom, and to restrain
+those excesses which are fatal to it; she has intellectual
+interests and traditions, which often really affect men who seem
+indifferent to them; life in her, as a rule, is not troubled by
+financial cares&mdash;for her young men, most of them, either
+through old endowments or from family circumstances, have for the
+moment enough of this world's goods. In view of all this, and much
+more, is it not natural that Oxford has a charm for her sons? And
+this is enhanced with many by all the force of hereditary
+tradition; the young man is at his college because his father was
+there before him; the pleasure of each generation is increased by
+the reflection of the other's pleasure. What traditional feeling in
+Oxford means may, perhaps, be illustrated by the story of an old
+English worthy, though one only of the second rank. Jonathan
+Trelawney, one of the Seven Bishops who defied James II, was a
+stout Whig, but when it was proposed to punish Oxford for her
+devotion to the Pretender, the Government found they could not
+reckon on his vote, though he was usually a safe party man. "I must
+be excused from giving my vote for altering the methods of election
+into Christ Church, where I had my bread for twenty years. I would
+rather see my son a link boy than a student of Christ Church in
+such a manner as tears up by the roots that constitution."</p>
+<p>But the days of hereditary tradition are over, and Trelawney
+belongs to an age long past; Oxford now is exposed to an influence
+compared to which the arbitrary proceedings of a king are feeble. A
+democratic Parliament with a growing Labour party has far more
+power to change Oxford than the Stuarts ever had, and even at this
+moment (1919) a third Royal Commission is beginning to sit. Will it
+modify, will it&mdash;transform Oxford?</p>
+<p>The first answer seems to be that the very stones of Oxford are
+charged with her traditions. During the War the colleges have been
+full of officer-cadets; they were men of all ranks of life and of
+every kind of education; they came from all parts of the world;
+they were of all ages, from eighteen to forty, at least. Their
+training was a strenuous one by strict rule, a complete contrast to
+the free and easy life of academic Oxford. Yet in their few months
+of residence, most of them became imbued with the college spirit;
+they considered themselves members of the place they lived in; they
+tried to do most of the things undergraduates do. If Oxford thus,
+to some extent, moulded to her pattern men who, welcome as they
+were, were only accidental, surely the college spirit may be
+trusted to assimilate whatever material the changed conditions of
+social or of political life furnish to it. The hope of many at
+Oxford is that there will be a great development and a great
+change. On one side it will be good if Oxford becomes to a much
+greater extent not only an all-British, but also a world
+university; on another side it is to be hoped that far more than
+ever before men of all classes in England will come to Oxford. It
+would surprise many of the University's critics to find how much
+had already been done in these directions. It is certainly not true
+now that, as one of Oxford's critics wrote,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Too long, too long men saw thee sit apart
+            From all the living pulses of the hour."
+</pre>
+<p>On the contrary, the Oxford of the last generation has already
+become markedly more cosmopolitan, and she has been drawing to her
+an ever-increasing number of able men of every class.</p>
+<p>But these developments, thus begun, will certainly be carried
+much further in the near future. Oxford will be altered. Some of
+her customs will be changed. This may well issue in great and
+lasting good, though there will be loss as well as gain. But an
+Oxford man may be pardoned if he believes and hopes that his
+university will remain the university he has loved. There is a
+saying current in Oxford about Oxford men, which may not be out of
+place here&mdash;"If you meet a stranger, and if after a time you
+say to him, 'I think you were at Oxford,' he accepts it, as a
+matter of course, and is pleased. If you do the same to a Cambridge
+man, he indignantly replies, 'How do you know that?'" No doubt the
+saying is turned the other way round at Cambridge, and no doubt it
+is equally true and equally false of both universities, i.e. it is
+positively true and negatively false, like so many other
+statements. But it is positively true; the Oxford man is proud of
+having been at Oxford; the past and the present alike, his
+political and his religious beliefs, his traditions and his social
+surroundings, all endear Oxford to him. May it ever be so.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="RadcliffeSquare" id="RadcliffeSquare">RADCLIFFE
+SQUARE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Like to a queen in pride of place, she wears
+The splendour of a crown in Radcliffe's dome."
+                                    L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p3"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p3.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"363" height="481" border="3" alt=
+"Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square</b></h4>
+<br>
+
+<p>The visitor to Oxford often asks&mdash;"Where is the
+University?" The proper answer is: "The University is everywhere,"
+for the colleges are all parts of it. But if a distinction must be
+made, and some buildings must be shown which are especially
+"University Buildings," then it is undoubtedly in the Square, of
+which this picture shows one side, that they must be found.
+Immediately on the right is the Bodleian Library, the domed
+building in the centre is the Radcliffe Library, and in the
+background rises the spire of St. Mary's. Of this last building the
+tower and spire go back nearly to the beginnings of Oxford; they
+date from the time of Edward I; but for a century, at least, before
+they were erected, the students of Oxford had met for worship and
+for business in the earlier church, which stood on the site of the
+present St. Mary's.</p>
+<p>The Bodleian Library occupies the old Examination Schools, which
+were built, in the reign of James I, for the reformed University of
+Archbishop Laud; within the memory of men who do not count
+themselves old, the university examinations were still held in this
+building. Finally, the shapely dome between the Bodleian and St.
+Mary's is the work of James Gibbs, the greatest English architect
+of the eighteenth century, to whom Cambridge owes its Senate House)
+and London the noble church of St. Martin's in the Fields. The dome
+was built for a separate library, the foundation of Dr. John
+Radcliffe, Queen Anne's physician, the most munificent of Oxford
+benefactors; it is still managed by his trustees, a body
+independent of the University, but since 1861 they have lent it to
+the Bodleian Library for a reading-room. It is fitting that the
+oldest public library in the modern world, a title the Bodleian can
+proudly claim, should have the finest reading-room, where 400
+students can have each his separate desk, and where, if so minded
+and so physically enduring, they can put in twelve hours' work in a
+day. No other great library in Europe allows such privileges.</p>
+<p>Round these three University buildings are grouped three
+colleges: Hertford, the youngest of Oxford foundations, the
+re-creation of an old hall by a Victorian financial magnate. Sir
+Thomas Baring; All Souls', standing a little beyond, of which the
+part here shown is the corner of the great Law Library, founded by
+Sir William Codrington in the days of good Queen Anne; while on the
+other side of the Radcliffe is Brasenose College (for pictures of
+which see Plates II and XV). No non-academic building fronts on the
+Square; the one or two houses facing on the south-west corner are
+occupied by college tutors. The academic influence has spread even
+under the earth, for between the Bodleian and the Radcliffe there
+is a great subterranean chamber of two stories, excavated
+1909-1910, which, when full, will contain 1,000,000 books.</p>
+<p>It is refreshing to turn from the thought of so much dead
+industry, as these multitudes of unread books will represent, to
+the inspiration of the buildings. They are the very epitome of
+Oxford. The classic symmetry of Gibbs' dome looks across at the
+soaring spire of the mediaeval University Church, while the
+Bodleian is one of the best examples of the Jacobean Gothic, which
+still held its own in Oxford when the classical style was
+triumphing elsewhere. Such contrasts are typical of Oxford. The
+University had a European reputation in the days when it was one of
+the two great centres of mediaeval scholasticism. Roger Bacon, the
+most famous name in mediaeval science, no doubt saw the tower of
+St. Mary's beginning to rise. The University welcomed the Classical
+Revival, it survived the storms of the Reformation, it was the
+great centre of the building up of Anglican theology under the
+Laudian rule, it was one of the inspirations of English science in
+the seventeenth century, though Dr. Radcliffe's generous
+benefactions are a little later, and have hardly begun to yield
+their full fruit till our own day. Such are the learned traditions
+of the Radcliffe Square, while it has also been the centre of the
+young lives which, for seven centuries at least, have enjoyed their
+happiest years in Oxford.</p>
+<p>The view from the Radcliffe roof is undoubtedly the best in
+Oxford. It has been thus described by the worst of the many poets
+who have celebrated the University:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Spire, tower and steeple, roofs of radiant tile,
+            The costly temple and collegiate pile,
+            In sumptuous mass of mingled form and hue,
+            Await the wonder of thy sateless view."</pre>
+<p>But Robert Montgomery is more likely to be remembered for
+Macaulay's merciless but well-deserved chastisement than for his
+praises of Oxford. Even their utter bathos cannot degrade a group
+of buildings so wonderful.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BroadStreet" id="BroadStreet">THE BROAD
+STREET</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Ye mossy piles of old munificence,
+ At once the pride of learning and defence."
+               J. WARTON,<i>Triumph of Isis.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The east side of the University buildings proper was shown in
+the last picture <a href="#p3">(Plate III)</a>; in the following <a
+href="#p4">(Plate IV)</a>, the north side of the same block is
+seen. The old University "schools" lay just inside the city wall,
+and Broad Street, which is there represented, occupies the site of
+the ditch, which ran on the north of the wall. This picture is a
+fitting supplement to the last, for the Sheldonian Theatre on the
+right of it and the Clarendon Building in the background may claim
+rank even with the Bodleian and the Radcliffe as the University's
+special buildings.</p>
+<p>The Sheldonian celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth
+anniversary only last year (1919), when the music which had been
+performed at its opening was performed once more. It is a building
+interesting from many points of view. Architecturally it marks the
+first complete flowering of the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He
+was only thirty-seven when it was completed, and had been
+previously known rather as a man of science than as an architect;
+he was Oxford's Professor of Astronomy; but Archbishop Sheldon
+chose him to build a worthy meeting place for his University, even
+as at the same time he was being called by the king to prepare
+plans for rebuilding London after the Great Fire.</p>
+<p>The very existence of the Sheldonian marks the development of
+University ideas. The simple piety&mdash;or was it the
+worldliness?&mdash;of Pre-Reformation Oxford had seen nothing
+unsuitable in the ceremonies of graduate Oxford and the ribaldries
+of undergraduate Oxford taking place in the consecrated building of
+St. Mary's; but the more sober genius of Anglicanism was shocked at
+these secular intrusions, and Sheldon provided his University with
+a worthy home, where its great functions have been performed ever
+since.</p>
+<p>The building is a triumph of construction; it is doubtful if so
+large an unsupported roof can be found elsewhere; but Wren is not
+to be held responsible for the outside ugly flat roof, which was
+put on 100 years ago, because it was said, quite falsely, that
+Wren's roof was unsafe. That architect had set himself the problem
+of getting the greatest number of people into the space at his
+disposal, and he managed to fit in a building that will hold 1,500.
+It was also intended for the Printing Press of the University, but
+was only used in that way for a short time, as in 1713 Sir John
+Vanbrugh put up the Clarendon Building, to house this department of
+University activity. The "heaviness" of Vanbrugh's buildings was a
+jest even in his own time; someone wrote as an epitaph for him</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Lie heavy on him. Earth, for he
+            Laid many a heavy load on thee."
+</pre>
+<p>Blenheim Palace, his greatest work, is indeed a "heavy load."
+But the same criticism can hardly be brought against the columned
+portico, which forms a fine ending for the Broad Street. Vanbrugh's
+building was superseded in its turn, when the increasing business
+of the Oxford Printing Press was moved to the present building in
+1830.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p4"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p4.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"483" height="363" border="3" alt=
+"Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad Street"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad
+Street</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Since then, all kinds of University business have been carried
+on in the old Printing Press. The University Registrar and the
+University Treasurer (his style is "Secretary of the University
+Chest") have their offices there; the Proctors exercise discipline
+from there; the various University delegacies and committees meet
+there. And another side of Oxford life, not yet (in January 1920)
+fully recognized as belonging to the University, has found a home
+there; the top floor has been for twenty years past the centre of
+women's education in Oxford, a position elevated indeed, for it is
+up more than fifty stairs, but commodious and dignified when
+reached at last.</p>
+<p>Perhaps the Clarendon Building has gained in lightness of effect
+by being contrasted with the clumsy mass of the Indian Institute,
+which forms the background of our picture. The nineteenth century
+proudly criticized the taste of the eighteenth; but it may well be
+doubted if any building in Oxford of the earlier and much-abused
+century is more inartistic and inappropriate than "Jumbo's Joss
+House," which used to rouse the scorn and anger of the late
+Professor of History, Edward A. Freeman.</p>
+<p>No Oxford colleges are in this picture, though a small part of
+Exeter, one of Sir Gilbert Scott's least happy erections in Oxford,
+appears on the right, and a little piece of Trinity on the left;
+the last-named is the college of Professor Sir Arthur
+Quiller-Couch, better known as "Q," one of the most delightful of
+Oxford's minor poets. The opening lines of his poem, "Alma
+Mater,"</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Know ye her secret none can utter,
+            Hers of the book, the tripled crown?
+            Still on the spire the pigeons flutter,
+            Still by the gateway flits the gown,
+            Still in the street from corbel and gutter
+            Faces of stone look down,"
+</pre>
+<p>may well have been inspired by this very scene in the Broad, for
+the grim faces of stone that surround the Sheldonian are one of the
+features and the puzzles of Oxford. Are they the Roman Emperors, or
+the Greek Philosophers, or neither? It does not matter, for they
+are unlike anything in heaven or in earth, and yet they are loved
+by all true Oxford men for their uncompromising ugliness, which has
+been familiar to so many generations.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BalliolC" id="BalliolC">BALLIOL COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"For the house of Balliol is builded ever
+ By all the labours of all her sons,
+ And the great deed wrought and the grand endeavour
+ Will be hers as long as the Isis runs."
+                                    F. S. BOAS
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The story is told of the old Greek admirals, after their victory
+at Salamis over the Persian king, that, when invited to name the
+two most deserving commanders, they each put their own name first,
+and then one and all put the Athenian Themistocles second. If a
+vote, on these principles, were taken in Oxford as to which was the
+best college, there is little doubt that Balliol would secure most
+of the second votes.</p>
+<p>It is one of the three oldest colleges, and actually has been in
+occupation of its present site longer than any other of our Oxford
+foundations&mdash;for more than six centuries and a half. Yet its
+greatness is but a thing of yesterday compared to the antiquity of
+Oxford, and it is fitting that a college which has come to the
+front in the nineteenth century should be mainly housed in
+nineteenth century buildings.</p>
+<p>Balliol has indeed ceased to be the "most satisfactory pile and
+range of old lowered and gabled edifices," which Nathaniel
+Hawthorne saw in the "fifties" of the last century. The painful
+imitation of a French chateau, the work of Sir Alfred Waterhouse,
+which forms the main part of our picture, was put up about 1868
+(mainly by the munificence of Miss Hannah Brackenbury), and only
+the old hall and the library, which lie behind, remain of
+Pre-Reformation Balliol.</p>
+<p>In the background of our picture <a href="#p5">(Plate V)</a> can
+be seen the Fisher Building, known to all Balliol men for the still
+existing inscription, "Verbum non amplius Fisher," which tradition
+says was put up at the dying request of the eighteenth-century
+benefactor.</p>
+<p>While it is true that the pre-eminence of Balliol is a growth of
+the nineteenth century, yet the college can count among its
+worthies one of the greatest names in English mediaeval history,
+that of John Wycliffe. He was probably a scholar of Balliol, and
+certainly Master for some years about 1360. But he left the college
+for a country living, and his time at Balliol is not associated
+with either of his most important works&mdash;his translation of
+the Bible or his order of "Poor Preachers." While at Balliol, he
+was rather "the last of the Schoolmen" than "the first of the
+Reformers."</p>
+<p>The modern greatness of Balliol is due to the fact that the
+college awoke more rapidly from the sleep of the eighteenth century
+than most of Oxford, and as early as 1828 threw open its
+scholarships to free competition. Hence even as early as the time
+of Dr. Arnold at Rugby, a "Balliol scholarship" had become "the
+blue riband of public-school education." It has now passed into
+popular phraseology to such an extent that lady novelists, unversed
+in academic niceties, confer a "Balliol scholarship" on their
+heroes, even when entering Cambridge.</p>
+<p>Balliol has known how to take full advantage of its opportunity.
+Governed by a series of eminent masters, especially Dr. Scott of
+Greek dictionary fame, and Professor Jowett, the translator of
+Plato and the hero of more Oxford stories than any other man, it
+has been ready to adapt itself to every new movement. While the
+governing bodies of other colleges in the middle of the last
+century were too often looking only to raising their own
+fellowships to the highest possible point, the Balliol dons were
+denying their own pockets to enrich and strengthen their
+college.</p>
+<p>Hence, undoubtedly, Balliol for a long time past has had a
+lion's share of Oxford's great men; two Archbishops of Canterbury,
+Tait and Temple, the present Archbishop of York, Cardinal Manning,
+a Prime Minister in Mr. Asquith, a Speaker in Lord. Peel, two
+Viceroys of India in Lord Lansdowne and Lord Curzon, poets like
+Clough, Matthew Arnold and Swinburne, these are only some of the
+more outstanding names. It is this which makes Balliol Hall so
+particularly interesting to the ordinary man; knowledge of
+present-day affairs, not of history, is all that is needed to
+appreciate its array of portraits.</p>
+<p>Nor has Balliol been unmindful of the social movements of our
+time. It is the chosen home of the Workers' Educational Association
+in Oxford, and in Arnold Toynbee it produced one of the pioneers
+and martyrs of modern social progress. Truly Balliol has much more
+to show to the visitor than its ultra-modern front on the Broad
+would promise.</p>
+<p>The street, on which Balliol looks out, is associated with the
+most famous scene of Oxford history; the stone with a cross in the
+middle of the road marks the traditional site of the burning of the
+bishops, Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, although their memorial has
+been erected 200 yards further north in St. Giles', and though
+antiquarians argue (probably correctly) that the actual pyre was a
+little further south, in fact, behind the present row of Broad
+Street houses.</p>
+<p>But it is the living activity of the college, not the sad
+memories of the street in front, that gives the interest to the
+picture. The intellectual life of the Balliol men has been well
+described by Professor J. C. Shairp, whose verses on "Balliol
+Scholars" are likely to be remembered by Oxford in long days to
+come for their associations, if not for their poetic merits. He
+describes what a privilege it is "to have passed," with men who
+became famous afterwards,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+                "The threshold of young life,
+            Where the man meets, not yet absorbs, the boy,
+            And ere descending to the dusky strife,
+            Gazed from clear heights of intellectual joy
+            That an undying image left enshrined."
+</pre>
+<p>This will come home to many, as they think on their happy Oxford
+days when they had life all before them, even though their
+contemporaries have not become archbishops like Temple or poets
+like Matthew Arnold.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p5"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p5.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"484" height="366" border="3" alt=
+"Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street Front"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street
+Front</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MertonC" id="MertonC">MERTON COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"I passed beside the reverend walls
+ In which of old I wore the gown."
+                        TENNYSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p6"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p6.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"363" height="473" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Merton is not only the oldest college in Oxford, it is also, as
+is claimed on the monument of the founder, Walter de Merton, in his
+Cathedral of Rochester, the model of "omnium quotquot extant
+collegiorum." Peterhouse, the first college at Cambridge, which was
+founded (1281) seven years later than Merton, had its statutes
+avowedly copied from those of its Oxford predecessor.</p>
+<p>So important a new departure in education calls for special
+notice. It is interesting to see how the English college system
+grew out of the long rivalry between the Regular and the Secular
+clergy which was so prominent in the mediaeval church. The Secular
+clergy, who had in their ranks all the "professional men" of the
+day, civil servants, architects, physicians, as well as, those
+devoted to religious matters in the strict sense, were always
+jealous of the monks and the friars, who, living by a "rule" in
+their communities, were much less in sympathy with English national
+feelings than the Seculars, who lived among the laity. Hence the
+growing influence of the Regular Orders, especially of the
+Franciscans and the Dominicans, in thirteenth-century Oxford,
+excited the alarm of a far-seeing prelate like Walter de Merton.
+There was a real danger that the most prominent and best of the
+students might be drawn into the great new communities, which were
+rapidly adding to their learning and their piety the further
+attractions of great buildings and splendid ceremonial.</p>
+<p>The founder of Merton had the same purpose as the founder of the
+College of the Sorbonne at Paris, a slightly earlier institution
+(1257). He intended that his college should rival the houses of the
+Dominicans and the Franciscans. These friaries were in the southern
+part of Oxford, and have completely perished, leaving behind only
+the names of two or three mean streets; but the college system
+which Walter de Merton founded has grown with the growth of Oxford
+and of England, and is to-day as vigorous and as useful as
+ever.</p>
+<p>Walter de Merton provided his fellows with noble buildings, at
+once for their common life and for their own private accommodation,
+and also with endowments sufficient to enable them to live in
+comfort, free from anxiety; most important of all, he gave them
+powers of self-government, so that they might recruit their own
+numbers and carry out for themselves the objects prescribed by him
+in his Statutes.</p>
+<p>In this great foundation then the three characteristic features
+of a college are found&mdash;a common life, powers of
+self-government, with the right of choosing future members, and
+endowments that enable religion and learning to flourish, free from
+more pressing cares. It is these features which distinguish the
+colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and which have determined their
+history.</p>
+<p>Walter de Merton definitely prescribed that none of the fellows
+who benefited by his foundation should be monks or friars; to take
+the vows involved forfeiture of a fellowship. He also especially
+urged on the members of his society that, when any of them rose to
+"ampler fortune" <i>(uberior fortuna)</i> , they should not forget
+their <i>alma mater</i> .</p>
+<p>The founder died in 1277, so that none of the college buildings
+were complete in his time, except perhaps the treasury, which, with
+its high-pitched roof of stone, lies in the opposite corner of the
+Mob Quad to that shown in our picture. Why the Quad is called "The
+Mob Quad," nobody knows. As was fitting, the chapel was the first
+part of the college to be finished&mdash;about 1300&mdash;and it is
+a splendid specimen of early Geometrical Gothic; it retains a
+little of the old glass, given by one of the early fellows.</p>
+<p>The north side of the Mob Quad, which is shown in our picture,
+is very little later than the Chapel, and the whole of the Quad was
+finished before 1400; the rooms in it have been the homes of Oxford
+men for more than five centuries. It is sad to think that so unique
+a building was almost destroyed in the middle of the nineteenth
+century, by the zeal of "reformers"; it was actually condemned to
+be pulled down, to make way for modern buildings, but, fortunately,
+there was an irregularity in the voting. Mr. G. C. Brodrick, then a
+young fellow, later the Warden of the college, insisted on the
+matter being discussed again at a later meeting, and at this the
+Mob Quad was saved by a narrow majority. "He will go to Heaven for
+it," as Corporal Trim said of the English Guards, who saved his
+broken regiment at Steinkirk.</p>
+<p>The "reformers" of Merton had to be content with cutting down
+their beautiful "Grove" and spoiling the finest view in Oxford by
+erecting the ugliest building which Mid-Victorian taste inflicted
+on the University.</p>
+<p>In the old buildings which so narrowly escaped destruction may
+have lived John Wycliffe, who is claimed as a fellow of Merton in
+an almost contemporary list; his activity in Oxford belongs rather
+to the later time, when he was Master of Balliol. His is one of the
+outstanding names in English history; the success of Merton in
+producing great men of a more ordinary kind can be judged from the
+fact that between 1294 and 1366 six out of the seven Archbishops of
+Canterbury were Merton men.</p>
+<p>In the great period of the seventeenth century, Merton had the
+distinction of being one of the few colleges which were
+Parliamentarian in sympathy. Hence the Warden was deposed by King
+Charles, who installed in his place a really great man, William
+Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood. But the
+king did more harm than good to the college; it was turned into
+lodgings for Queen Henrietta Maria and her court, and ladies were
+intruded and children born within college walls. These proceedings
+were respectable, though unusual; but the college was even more
+humiliated by the visit of Charles II, who installed there, among
+other court ladies, the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The
+college, however, with the Revolution, returned to less courtly
+views, and its Whig connection found an honourable representative
+in Richard Steele, the founder of the <i>Tatler</i> . It is not
+surprising that so cheerful a gentleman left Oxford without a
+degree, but "with the love of the whole society." The college
+register specially notes his gift of his <i>Tatler</i> ; he was
+acting on the sound rule, by no means so universally followed as it
+ought to be, that Oxford authors should present their books to
+their college library.</p>
+<p>Merton, as has been said, is the "type" college, if one may thus
+apply a scientific term; hence it is fitting that to it belong the
+two men to whom perhaps Oxford owes most. Thomas Bodley was a
+fellow and lecturer in Greek there, before he left Oxford for
+diplomacy, and accumulated that wealth which he used to endow the
+oldest and the most fascinating, if not the largest, of British
+libraries. And among the men who have gained from "the rare books
+in the public library" a way to a "perfect elysium," none better
+deserves remembrance than the Mertonian, Antony Wood, whose
+monument stands in Merton Chapel, but who has raised <i>monumentum
+aere perennius</i> to himself, in his <i>History of the University
+of Oxford</i> and his <i>Athenae Oxonienses</i> .</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MertonL" id="MertonL">MERTON LIBRARY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Hail, tree of knowledge! thy leaves fruit; which well
+ Dost in the midst of Paradise arise,
+ Oxford, the Muses' paradise,
+ From which may never sword the blest expel.
+ Hail, bank of all past ages! where they lie
+ To enrich, with interest, posterity."
+                                                  COWLEY.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p7"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p7.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"340" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VII. Merton College : The Library Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VII. Merton College : The Library
+Interior</b></h4>
+<p>"The appearance of the library" (at Merton), says the great
+Cambridge scholar, J. Willis Clark, in his <i>Care of Books</i> ,
+"is so venerable, so unlike any similar room with which I am
+acquainted, that it must always command admiration."</p>
+<p>He classes it with the libraries at Oxford of Corpus, St.
+John's, Jesus, and Magdalen, and he regretfully adds that no
+college library in his own University has retained the same old
+features as these have done. But none of the four can compare with
+Merton, either in antiquarian interest or in picturesqueness; it
+stands in a class by itself.</p>
+<p>The Library was built by the munificence of Bishop Reed of
+Chichester between 1377 and 1379; the dormer windows, however (seen
+in <a href="#p7">Plate VII</a>), are later in date. The bookcases
+in the larger room were made in 1623; one of the original half
+cases, however, was spared, that nearest to the entrance on the
+north side, and this is the most interesting single feature in the
+whole library. It need hardly be said that the reading-desk in
+early times was actually attached to the bookcase; the library then
+was a place to read in, not one from which books were taken to be
+read. The books were to be kept "in some common and secure place,"
+and they were "chained in the library chamber for the common use of
+the fellows" (J. W. Clark).</p>
+<p>The old case that has been retained still has its chained books,
+and traces of the arrangement for chains can be seen in the other
+cases. Merton was one of the last libraries in Oxford to keep its
+books in chains; these were only removed in 1792; in the Bodleian
+the work had been begun a generation earlier (in 1757).</p>
+<p>Not all books, however, were chained; by special arrangements in
+old college statutes, some of them were allowed out to the fellows.
+The register of Merton contains interesting entries as to how the
+books were distributed, e.g. on August 26, 1500, "choice was made
+of the books on philosophy; it was found there were in all 349
+books, which were then distributed." This was a large number: at
+King's, Cambridge, less than half a century before, there were only
+174 books on all subjects, and in the Cambridge University Library
+in 1473, only 330.</p>
+<p>If a book was borrowed, great precautions were taken; the Warden
+of Merton in 1498 had to obtain the leave of the college to take
+out a book which he wanted; then, "in the presence of the four
+seniors," he received his book, depositing two volumes of St.
+Jerome's Commentaries as pledges for its safe return. A similar
+ceremony, with a similar entry in the register, marked the
+replacement of the book in the library. Though printing was already
+beginning to multiply books, yet then, and for long after, a book
+was a most valuable possession. The features of these venerable
+tomes are well described by Crabbe:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "That weight of wood, with leathern coat o'erlaid,
+            Those ample clasps, of solid metal made,
+            The close pressed leaves, unclosed for many an age,
+            The dull red edging of the well-filled page,
+            On the broad back the stubborn ridges rolled,
+            Where yet the title shines in tarnished gold,
+            These all a sage and laboured work proclaim,
+            A painful candidate for lasting fame."
+</pre>
+<p>Such books are numbered by hundreds in every college library,
+and it is only too true of them that:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Hence in these times, untouched the pages lie
+            And slumber out their immortality."
+</pre>
+<p>The reception of such a book in a library was an event, and the
+record of one gift occupies six whole lines in the Merton Register;
+its donors are named as "two venerable men," and the entry sweetly
+concludes, "Let us, therefore, pray for them."</p>
+<p>The library, problem, acute everywhere, is perhaps especially so
+in a college library. How can it keep pace with the multiplicity of
+studies? How should it deal with books indispensable for a short
+time, perhaps for one generation, and then superseded? Even apart
+from the question of the cost of purchase, the amount of space
+available is small, considering modern needs. These problems and
+such as these have not yet been solved by college librarians; but
+the college library, quite apart from the books in it, is an
+education in itself. The old days of neglect are past, the days
+reflected in the scandalous story&mdash;told of more than one
+college&mdash;about the old fellow who was missing for two months,
+and, after being searched for high and low, was found hanging dead
+in the college library. Now the libraries everywhere are being used
+continually, and men can realize in them, perhaps better than
+anywhere else, how great the past of Oxford has been, and can form
+some idea of the labours of forgotten generations, which have made
+the University what it was and what it is.</p>
+<p>Every library has its treasures, to show the present generation
+how beautiful an old book can be which was produced in days when
+its production was not a mere publisher's speculation, but the work
+of a scholar seeking to promote knowledge and advance the cause of
+Truth. And it does not require much imagination for a student, in a
+building like Merton Library, to conjure up the picture of his
+mediaeval predecessor, sitting on his hard wooden bench, with his
+chained MSS. volume on the shelf above, and poring over the crabbed
+pages in the unwarmed, half-lighted chamber. If the picture brings
+with it the thought of the transitoriness of human endeavour, and
+if the words of the Teacher seem doubly true, "Of making of books
+there is no end, and much study is a weariness of the flesh," yet
+in the fresh life of young Oxford, such reflections are only
+salutary; pessimism, despair of humanity, are not vices likely to
+flourish among undergraduates in the healthy society of modern
+colleges.</p>
+<p>Those only, it might be said, can properly reform the present
+who understand the past, and it is perhaps the spirit of the Merton
+Library, at once old and new, which has inspired the statesmen whom
+Merton has sent to take part in the government of Britain during
+the last half-century. Lord Randolph Churchill, the founder of Tory
+democracy, his present-day successor in the same role, Lord
+Birkenhead, and the ever young Lord Halsbury are men of the type
+which Walter de Merton wished to train, "for the service of God in
+Church and State," men who champion the existing order, but who are
+willing to develop and improve it on the old lines.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="OrielC" id="OrielC">ORIEL COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "Here at each coign of every antique street
+ A memory hath taken root in stone,
+ Here Raleigh shone."
+                                  L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p8"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p8.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's Church"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's
+Church</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>It is a curious coincidence that three of the most troubled
+reigns of English history have been marked by double college
+foundations in Oxford. That of Henry VI, in spite of constant civil
+war, threatening or actual, saw the beginnings of All Souls' and of
+Magdalen; the short and sad reign of Mary Tudor restored to Oxford
+Trinity and St. John's; and in an earlier century the ministers of
+Edward II, the most unroyal of our Plantagenet kings, gave to
+Oxford Exeter and Oriel. The king himself was graciously pleased to
+accept the honour of the latter foundation, and his statue adorns
+the College Quad, along with that of Charles I, in whose day the
+whole College was rebuilt. The front may be compared
+architecturally with those of Wadham and of University, which date
+from about the same period (the first part of the seventeenth
+century), when, under the fostering care of Archbishop Laud, Oxford
+increased greatly in numbers, in learning, and in buildings. Though
+Oriel has neither the bold sweep of University nor the perfect
+proportions of Wadham, it yet is a pleasing building, at least in
+its front.</p>
+<p>Like New College, Oriel is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and,
+also like New College, the name of "St. Mary's" early gave way to a
+popular nickname. The College at once on its foundation received
+the gift of a tenement called "L'Oriole," which occupied its
+present site, and its name has displaced the real style of the
+College in general use.</p>
+<p>It is only fitting that, as in our picture, St. Mary's Church
+should be combined with Oriel, for the founder was Vicar of St.
+Mary's, and the presentation to that living has ever since been in
+the hands of the College. It was as a Fellow of Oriel that Newman
+became, in 1828, Vicar of St. Mary's, from the pulpit of which,
+during thirteen years, he moulded all that was best in the
+religious life of Oxford. The glorious spire of the church was
+still new when the College was founded.</p>
+<p>Oriel and its chapel are among the places for religious
+pilgrimage in Oxford. As Lincoln draws from all parts of the world
+those who reverence the name of John Wesley, so the Oxford Movement
+and the Anglican Revival had their starting-point, and for some
+time their centre, in Oriel. The connection of the College with the
+Movement was not in either case a mere accident; the Oxford
+Revival, at any rate, was profoundly influenced by the personality
+of Newman, and Newman, both by attraction and by repulsion, was
+largely what Oriel made him. Among those who were with him at the
+College were Archbishop Whately, whose Liberalism repelled him,
+Hawkins, the Provost, whose views on "Tradition" began to modify
+the Evangelicalism in which he had been brought up, Keble, whose
+<i>Christian Year</i> did more for Church teaching in England than
+countless sermons, Pusey, already famous for his learning and his
+piety, who was to give his name to the Movement, and, slightly
+later, Church, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, the historian of the
+Movement, and Samuel Wilberforce, who, as Bishop of Oxford, was to
+show how profoundly it would increase the influence of the English
+Church.</p>
+<p>Such a combination of famous names at one time is hardly found
+in the history of any other college, and it would be easy to add
+others hardly less known, who were also members of the same body at
+that famous time. Hero-worshippers can still see the rooms where
+these great men lived, and the Common Room in which they met and
+argued, in the days when Oxford did less teaching and had more time
+for talking and for thinking than the busy, hurrying ways of the
+twentieth century allow. But Oriel has many other associations
+besides those of the Oxford Movement. Walter Raleigh, the most
+fascinating of Elizabethans, was a student there, and probably in
+Oxford met the great historian of travel and discovery, Richard
+Hakluyt (a Christ Church man), whose influence did so much to bring
+home to Oxford the wonders of the strange worlds beyond the seas.
+It was probably also through his connection with Oriel that Raleigh
+made the acquaintance of Harriot, who shared in his colonial
+ventures in Virginia, and who became the historian of that
+foundation, so full of importance as the beginning of the new
+England across the Atlantic. It was only fitting that the Raleigh
+of the nineteenth century, Cecil John Rhodes, should also be an
+Oriel man, who was never weary of acknowledging what he owed to
+Oxford, and who showed his faith in her by his works. The Rhodes'
+Foundation expends his millions in bringing scholars to Oxford from
+the whole world; already its influence has been great during its
+twenty years of existence; what it will be in the future, only the
+future can show. If Mr. Rhodes gave his millions to the University,
+he gave his tens of thousands to his old College. The result on the
+High Street is&mdash;to put it gently&mdash;not altogether happy;
+but perhaps time may soften the lines of Mr. Champney's somewhat
+uninspired front, though it is not likely to quicken interest in
+the statues of the obscure provosts which adorn it.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="QueensC" id="QueensC">QUEEN'S COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"The building, parent of my young essays,
+ Asks in return a tributary praise;
+ Pillars sublime bear up the learned weight,
+ And antique sages tread the pompous height."
+                                   TICKELL.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<p>Queens's is one of the six oldest colleges in Oxford, and is far
+on to celebrating its sexcentenary, but it has purged itself of the
+Gothic leaven in its buildings more completely than any other
+Oxford foundation. It does not even occupy its own old site, for
+the building originally lay well back from the High Street. It was
+only the "civilities and kindnesses" of Provost Lancaster which
+induced the Mayor and Corporation of Oxford, in 1709, to grant to
+Queen's College "for 1,000 years," "so much ground on the High
+Street as shall be requisite for making their intended new building
+straight and uniform." And so the most important of "the streamlike
+windings of the glorious street" was in part determined by a
+corrupt bargain between "a vile Whig" (as Hearne calls this hated
+Provost) and a complaisant mayor. But much of the credit for the
+beauty of this part of the High must also be given to the architect
+of University College (seen in <a href="#p9">Plate IX</a> on the
+left), who, whether by skill or by accident, combined at a most
+graceful angle the two quads, erected with an interval of some
+eighty years between them (1634 and 1719).</p>
+<p>A man must, indeed, be a Gothic purist who would wish away the
+stately front quadrangle of Queen's, designed by Wren's favourite
+pupil, Hawkmoor, while the master himself is said to be responsible
+for the chapel of the College, the most perfect basilican church in
+Oxford.</p>
+<p>If Queen's has been revolutionary in its buildings, it has been
+singularly tenacious of old customs. Its members still assemble at
+dinner to the sound of the trumpet (blown by a curious arrangement
+<i>after</i> grace has been said); it still keeps up the ancient
+and honoured custom of bringing in the boar's head&mdash;"the chief
+service of this land"&mdash;for dinner on Christmas Day; while on
+New Year's Day, the Bursar still, as has been done for nearly 600
+years, bids his guests "take this and be thrifty," as he hands each
+a "needle and thread," wherewith to mend their academic hoods; the
+<i>aiguille et fil</i> is probably a pun on the name of the
+founder, Robert Eglesfield. The College at these festivities uses
+the loving, cup, given it by its founder, perhaps the oldest piece
+of plate in constant use anywhere in Great Britain; five and a half
+centuries of good liquor have stained the gold-mounted aurochs'
+horn to a colour of unrivalled softness and beauty.</p>
+<p>Robert Eglesfield was almoner of the good Queen Philippa, wife
+of Edward III, and, like Adam de Brome, the founder of Oriel, he,
+too, commended his college to a royal patron. Ever since his time,
+the "Queen's College" has been under the patronage of the Queen's
+consort of England, and the connection has been duly acknowledged
+by many of them, especially by Henrietta Maria, the evil genius of
+Charles I, and by Queen Caroline, the good genius of George II. Her
+present Gracious Majesty, too, has recognized the college claim.
+The Queens Regnant have no obligations to the college, but Queen
+Elizabeth gave it the seal it still uses, and good Queen Anne was a
+liberal contributor to the rebuilding of the college in her day;
+her statue still adorns the cupola on the front to the High.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p9"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p9.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"482" height="368" border="3" alt="Plate IX. High Street"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate IX. High Street</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>No doubt it was the royal connection which brought to Queen's,
+if tradition may be trusted, two famous warrior princes, the Black
+Prince and Henry V; though it is at least doubtful whether the
+Queen's poet, Thomas Tickell, Addison's flattering friend, had any
+authority for the picture he gives of their college life. He
+describes them as:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Sent from the Monarch's to the Muses' Court,
+            Their meals were frugal and their sleeps were short;
+            To couch at curfew time they thought no scorn,
+            And froze at matins every winters morn."
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<p>The College has an interesting portrait of the great Henry,
+which may be authentic; but that of the Black Prince, which adorns
+the college hall, is known to have been painted from a handsome
+Oxford butcher's boy, in the eighteenth century. While we condemn
+the lack of historic sense in the Provost and Fellows of that day,
+we may at least acquit them of any intention of pacificist irony in
+their choice of a model.</p>
+<p>Queen's has had better poets than Tickell on its rolls, but, by
+a curious chance, the two most eminent&mdash;Joseph Addison and
+William Collins&mdash;were both tempted away from their first
+college by the superior wealth and attractions of Magdalen.</p>
+<p>The old local connections which were such a marked feature in
+the statutes of founders, and which so profoundly influenced Oxford
+down to the Commission of 1854, have been almost swept away at
+other colleges; but at Queen's they have always been strongly
+maintained. It has been, and is, emphatically, a north-country
+college. Not the least important factor in maintaining this
+tradition has been the great benefaction of Lady Elizabeth
+Hastings, fondly and familiarly known to all Queen's men as "Lady
+Betty." Steele wrote of her when young, that to "love her was a
+liberal education"; this may have been flattery, but her bounty, at
+any rate, has given a "liberal education" to hundreds of
+north-country men, who come up from the twelve schools of her
+foundation to her college at Oxford.</p>
+<p>It is interesting to note in Modern Oxford, attempts to
+re-establish those local connections, which the wisdom of our
+ancestors established, and which the self-complacency of Victorian
+reformers "vilely cast away."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="NewC1" id="NewC1">NEW COLLEGE (1) FOUNDER AND
+BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"There the kindly fates allowed
+ Me too room, and made me proud,
+ Prouder name I have not wist,
+ With the name of Wykehamist."
+                    L. JOHNSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+
+<a name="p10"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p10.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="483" border="3" alt=
+"Plate X. New College : The Entrance Gateway"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate X. New College : The Entrance
+Gateway</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Among the "Founders" of Oxford colleges, three stand out
+pre-eminent &mdash;all three bishops of Winchester and great public
+servants. If Wolsey has undisputed claims for first place, there
+can be little doubt that, in spite of the great public services of
+Bishop Foxe, the Founder of Corpus, the second place must be
+assigned to William of Wykeham, "sometime Lord High Chancellor of
+England, the sole and munificent founder of the two St. Mary Winton
+colleges." Others, beside Wykehamists, hear with pleasure the
+magnificent roll of the titles of the Founder of New College, when
+one of his intellectual sons occupies the University pulpit, and
+gives thanks for "founders and benefactors, such as were William of
+Wykeham."</p>
+<p>In Oxford, without doubt, his great claim to be remembered will
+be held to be his college with the school at Winchester, which he
+linked to it. But he was also a reformer and a champion of
+Parliamentary privilege in the days when the "Good Parliament" set
+to work to check the misgovernment of Edward III in his dotage,
+and, as an architect, he is equally famous as having given to
+Windsor Castle its present shape, and as having secured the final
+triumph of the Perpendicular style by his glorious nave at
+Winchester.</p>
+<p>William of Wykeham is a very striking instance of what is too
+often Forgotten&mdash;viz., that in the Mediaeval Church all
+professional men, and not simply spiritual pastors, found their
+work and their reward in the ranks of the clergy. As "supervisor of
+the king's works," he earned the royal favour, which, after sixteen
+years of service, rewarded him with the rich bishopric of
+Winchester. Such a career and such a reward seem to modern ideas
+incongruous, even as they did to John Wycliffe, his great
+contemporary, who complained of men being made bishops because they
+were "wise in building castles." But many forms of service were
+needed to create England; Wykeham and Wycliffe both have a place in
+the roll of its "Makers." At all events, if Wykeham obtained his
+wealth by secular service, he spent it for the promoting of the
+welfare of the Church, as he conceived it. The purpose of his two
+colleges was to remedy the shortness of clergy in his day, and to
+assist the <i>militia clericalis</i> , which had been grievously
+reduced <i>pestilentiis, guerris et aliis mundi miseriis</i> (an
+obvious reference to the Black Death).</p>
+<p>New College was planned on a scale of magnificence which far
+exceeded any of the earlier colleges. It was emphatically the "New
+College," [1] and its foundation (it was opened in 1386) marks the
+final triumph of the college system.</p>
+<p>[1] The popular name has entirety displaced its official style.
+Rather more than a generation ago, an historically minded
+Wykehamist tried to revive the proper style of his college, and
+headed all his letters "The College, of St. Mary of Winchester,
+Oxford." The result was disastrous for him; the replies came to the
+Vicar of St. Mary's, to St. Mary's Hall, to Winchester, anywhere
+but to him; and very soon practical necessity overcame antiquarian,
+propriety.</p>
+<p>Its Warden was to have a state corresponding to that of the
+great mitred abbots; the stables, where he kept his six horses, on
+the south side of New College Lane (to be seen in <a href=
+"#p10">Plate X</a> on the right), show, by their perfect masonry,
+how well the architect-bishop chose his materials and how skilfully
+they were worked.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance tower, in the centre of the picture, with its
+statues of the Blessed Virgin and of the Founder in adoration below
+on her left, was the abode of the Warden; but his lodgings, still
+the most magnificent home in Oxford, extended in both directions
+from the tower.</p>
+<p>Behind this front lay Wykeham's Quad, nestling under the shadow
+of the towering chapel and hall on the north side. Here also, as in
+the stables, the technical knowledge of the Founder is seen; his
+"chambers," after more than 500 years, have still their old stone
+unrenewed; while the third story, added 300 years later on
+(1674-5), has had to be entirely refaced.</p>
+<p>But it is in the public buildings, and especially in the chapel,
+that the greatness of Wykeham, as an architect, is best seen. In
+spite of the destructive fanaticism of the Reformation, and the
+almost equally destructive "restorations" of the notorious Wyatt,
+and of Sir Gilbert Scott (who inexcusably raised the height of the
+roof), the chapel still is indisputably the finest in Oxford. And
+its glass may challenge a still wider field. The eight great
+windows in the ante-chapel, dating from the Founder's time, rival
+the glories of the French cathedrals; the windows of the chapel
+proper, whatever be thought of their artistic success, are a unique
+instance of what English glass-makers could do in the eighteenth
+century; and Sir Joshua Reynolds' west window (the outside of which
+is seen in the centre of the next picture) has at all events the
+suffrages of the majority, who agree with Horace Walpole that it is
+"glorious," and that "the sun shining through the transparencies
+has a magic effect." It must be added, however, that Walpole soon
+changed his mind, and was very severe on Sir Joshua's "washy
+virtues," which have been compared to "seven chambermaids."</p>
+<p>Not the least interesting feature of the Founder's chapel is its
+detached bell-tower, seen in the next picture, on the north side of
+the cloisters. He obtained leave to place this on the city wall, a
+large section of which the College undertook to maintain-thus
+adding a permanent charm to their own garden.</p>
+<p>The magnificence of the Founder Bishop is well seen in his
+splendid crozier, bequeathed to him by his college, and still
+preserved on the north side of the chapel. The results of his work,
+for Oxford and for learning, will be briefly told of in the next
+chapter.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p11"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p11.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XI. New College : The Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XI. New College : The Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="NewC2" id="NewC2">NEW COLLEGE (2) HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Round thy cloisters, in moonlight,
+ Branching dark, or touched with white:
+ Round old chill aisles, where, moon-smitten,
+ Blanches the Orate, written
+ Under each worn old-world face."
+                                  L. JOHHSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>William of Wykeham's College had other marked features besides
+its magnificent scale. Previous colleges had grown; at New College
+everything was organized from the first. As the great architectural
+History of Cambridge says: "For the first time, chapel, hall,
+library, treasury, the Warden's lodgings, a sufficient range of
+chambers, the cloister, the various domestic offices, are provided
+for and erected without change of plan." The chapel especially gave
+the model for the T shape, a choir and transepts without a nave,
+which has become the normal form in Oxford. The influence of
+Wykeham's building plan may be traced elsewhere also&mdash;at
+Cambridge and even in Scotland.</p>
+<p>In these well-planned buildings, definite arrangements were made
+for college instruction, as opposed to the general teaching open to
+the whole University; special <i>informafores</i> were provided,
+who were to supervise the work of all scholars up to the age of
+sixteen. This marks the beginning of the Tutorial System, which has
+ever since played so great a part in the intellectual life of
+England's two old Universities.</p>
+<p>Wykeham's scholars all came from Winchester, and were supposed
+to be <i>pauperes</i> , but as one of the first, Henry Chichele,
+afterwards Henry V's Archbishop of Canterbury and the Founder of
+All Souls', was a son of the Lord Mayor of London, it is obvious
+that the qualification of "poverty" was interpreted with some
+laxity. It was not until the middle of the nineteenth century that
+others than Wykehamists were admitted as scholars.</p>
+<p>The fact that a mere boy was elected to a position which
+provided for him for life was not calculated to stimulate
+subsequent intellectual activity, and Wykehamists themselves have
+been among the first to say that the intellectual distinction of
+the great bishop's beneficiaries has by no means corresponded to
+the magnificence of the foundation or the noble intentions of the
+Founder. Antony Wood records in the seventeenth century that there
+was already an "ugly proverb" as to New College men&mdash;"Golden
+scholars, silver Bachelors, leaden Masters, wooden Doctors," "which
+is attributed," he goes on, "to their rich fellowships, especially
+to their ease and good diet, in which I think they exceed any
+college else."</p>
+<p>The nineteenth century has changed all this; the small and close
+college of pre-Commission days has become one of the largest and
+most intellectual in the University; but Winchester men in their
+Oxford college fully hold their own in every way against the
+scholars from the world outside, who are now admitted to share with
+them the advantages of Wykeham's foundation.</p>
+<p>The bishop's careful provision, however, of good teaching at his
+school and in his college bore good fruit at first, whatever may
+have been the result later. If Corpus is especially the college of
+the revival of learning, New College had prepared the way, and the
+first Englishman to teach Greek in Oxford was the New College
+fellow, William Grocyn, whom Erasmus called the "most upright and
+best of all Britons." From the same college, about the same time,
+came the patron of Erasmus, Archbishop Warham, of whose saintly
+simplicity and love of learning he gives so attractive a picture.
+Warham was not forgetful of his old college, and presented the
+beautiful "linen fold" panelling which still adorns the hall.</p>
+<p>At the time of the Reformation, New College was especially
+attached to the old form of the faith, and it has been maintained
+that the dangerous lowness of the wicket entrance in the Gate Tower
+was due to the deliberate purpose of the governing body, who
+resolved that everyone who entered the college, however Protestant
+his views, should bow his head under the statue of the Blessed
+Virgin above. At any rate, one New College man in the seventeenth
+century attributed his perversion to "the lively memorials of
+Popery in statues and pictures in the gates and in the chapel of
+New College."</p>
+<p>Certain it is that under Elizabeth, after the purging of the
+college from its recusant fellows, who contributed a large share of
+the Roman controversialists to the colleges of Louvain and Douai,
+Wykeham's foundation sank, as has been said, into inglorious ease
+for two centuries. Yet, during this period, it had the honour of
+producing two of the Seven Bishops who resisted King James II's
+attack on the English Constitution&mdash;one of them the saintly
+hymn writer, Thomas Ken. And to the darkest days of the eighteenth
+century belongs the most famous picture of the ideal Oxford life:
+"I spent many years, in that illustrious society, in a
+well-regulated course of useful discipline and studies, and in the
+agreeable and improving commerce of gentlemen and of scholars; in a
+society where emulation without envy, ambition without jealousy,
+contention without animosity, incited industry and awakened genius;
+where a liberal pursuit of knowledge and a genuine freedom of
+thought was raised, encouraged, and pushed forward by example, by
+commendation, and by authority." These were the words of Bishop
+Lowth, whose great work on <i>The Poetry of the Hebrews</i> was
+delivered as lectures for the Chair of Poetry at Oxford.</p>
+<p>The spirit of Oxford has never been better described, and even
+that bitter critic, the great historian Gibbon, admits that Lowth
+practised what he preached, and that he was an ornament to the
+University in its darkest period. Of the days of Reform a
+forerunner was found in Sydney Smith, the witty Canon of St.
+Paul's.</p>
+<p>The names of New College men famous for learning or for
+political success, during the last half-century, are too recent to
+mention, but it is fitting to put on record that to New College
+belongs the sad distinction of having the longest Roll of Honour in
+the late War. It has lost about 250 of its sons, including four of
+the most distinguished young tutors in Oxford; History and
+Philosophy, Scholarship and Natural Science are all of them the
+poorer for the premature loss of Cheesman and Heath, Hunter and
+Geoffrey Smith; their names are familiar to everyone in Oxford, and
+they would have been familiar some day to the world of scholars
+everywhere. <i>Dis aliter visum est</i> .</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="LincolnC" id="LincolnC">LINCOLN COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "This is the chapel; here, my son,
+ Thy father dreamed the dreams of youth,
+ And heard the words, which, one by one,
+ The touch of life has turned to truth."
+                               NEWBOLT.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p12"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p12.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"333" height="498" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The name of Lincoln College recalls a fact familiar to all
+students of ecclesiastical history, though surprising to the
+ordinary man&mdash;viz., that Oxford, till the Reformation, was in
+the great diocese of Lincoln, which stretched right across the
+Midlands from the Humber to the Thames. This fact had an important
+bearing on the history of the University; its bishop was near
+enough to help and protect, but not near enough to interfere
+constantly. Hence arose the curious position of the Oxford
+Chancellor, the real head of the mediaeval University and still its
+nominal head; though an ecclesiastical dignitary, and representing
+the Bishop, the Oxford Chancellor was not a cathedral official, but
+the elect of the resident Masters of Arts. How important this
+arrangement was for the independence of the University will be
+obvious.</p>
+<p>The ecclesiastical position of Oxford is responsible also for
+the foundation of four of its colleges; both Lincoln and Brasenose,
+colleges that touch each other, were founded by Bishops of Lincoln;
+Foxe and Wolsey, too, though holding other sees later, ruled over
+the great midland diocese.</p>
+<p>Richard Fleming, the Bishop of Lincoln, who founded the college
+that bears the name of his see, was in some ways a remarkable man.
+When resident in Oxford, he had been prominent among the followers
+of John Wycliffe and had shared his reforming views; but he was
+alarmed at the development of his master's teaching in the hands of
+disciples, and set himself to oppose the movement which he had once
+favoured. He founded his "little college" with the express object
+of training "theologians" "to defend the mysteries of the sacred
+page against those ignorant laics, who profaned with swinish snouts
+its most holy pearls." It is curious that Lincoln's great title to
+fame&mdash;and it is a very great one&mdash;is that its most
+distinguished fellow was John Wesley, the Wycliffe of the
+eighteenth century.</p>
+<p>The connection of Oxford and Lincoln College with Wesley and his
+movement is no accidental one, based merely on the fact that he
+resided there for a certain time. Humanly speaking, Wesley's
+connection with Lincoln was a determining factor in his spiritual
+and mental development, and it was while he was there that his
+followers received the name of "Methodists," a name given in scorn,
+but one which has become a thing of pride to millions. Wesley was a
+fellow of Lincoln for nine years, from 1726 to 1735. During the
+most impressionable years of a man's life&mdash;he was only
+twenty-three when he was elected fellow&mdash;he was developing his
+mental powers by an elaborate course of studies, and his spiritual
+life by the careful use of every form of religious discipline which
+the Church prescribed. A college, with its daily services and its
+life apart from the world, rendered the practice of such discipline
+possible. It was because Wesley and his followers, his brother
+Charles, George Whitefield and others, observed this discipline so
+carefully that they obtained their nickname. It is with good reason
+that Lincoln Chapel is visited by his disciples from all parts of
+the world; it has been little altered since his time, his pulpit is
+still here, and the glass and the carving which make it very
+interesting, if not beautiful, are those which he saw daily.</p>
+<p>The chapel is the memorial of the devotion to Lincoln of another
+churchman, more successful than Wesley from a worldly point of
+view, but now forgotten by all except professed students of
+history. John Williams, Bishop of Lincoln from 1621 to 1641, was
+the last ecclesiastic who "kept" the Great Seal of England. He had
+the misfortune to differ from Laud on the Church Question of the
+day, and was prosecuted before the Star Chamber for subornation of
+perjury, and heavily fined. There seems no doubt that he was
+guilty; but it was to advocacy of moderation and to his dislike of
+the king's arbitrary rule that he owed the severity of his
+punishment. Whatever his moral character, at all events he gave his
+college a beautiful little chapel, which is often compared to the
+slightly older one at Wadham; that of Lincoln is much the less
+spacious of the two, but in its wood carvings, at any rate, it is
+superior.</p>
+<p>Lincoln had the ill-fortune, in the nineteenth century, to
+produce the writer of one of those academic "Memoirs," which
+reveal, with a scholar's literary style, and also with a scholar's
+bitterness, the intrigues and quarrels that from time to time arise
+within college walls. Mark Pattison is likely to be remembered by
+the world in general because he is said to have been the original
+of George Eliot's "Mr. Casaubon"; in Oxford he will be remembered
+not only for the "Memoirs," but also as one who upheld the highest
+ideal of "Scholarship" when it was likely to be forgotten, and who
+criticized the neglect of "research." The personal attacks were
+those of a disappointed man; the criticisms, one-sided as they
+were, were certainly not unjustified.</p>
+<p>A university should certainly exist to promote learning, and
+Mark Pattison, with all his unfairness, certainly helped its cause
+in Oxford. But a university exists also for the promotion of
+friendships among young men, and for the development of their
+social life. Of this duty, Oxford has never been unmindful, and
+perhaps it is in small colleges like Lincoln that the flowers of
+friendship best flourish. It is needless to make comparisons, for
+they flourish everywhere; but it is appropriate to quote, when
+writing of one of the smaller Oxford colleges, the verses on this
+subject of a recent Lincoln poet (now dead); they will come home to
+every Oxford man:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "City of my loves and dreams,
+            Lady throned by limpid streams;
+           'Neath the shadow of thy towers,
+            Numbered I my happiest hours.
+            Here the youth became a man;
+            Thought and reason here began.
+            Ah! my friends, I thought you then
+            Perfect types of perfect men:
+            Glamour fades, I know not how,
+            Ye have all your failings now,"
+</pre>
+<p>But Oxford friendships outlast the discovery that friends have
+"failings"; as Lord Morley, who went to Lincoln in 1856, writes:
+"Companionship (at Oxford) was more than lectures"; a friend's
+failure later (he refers to his contemporary, Cotter Morison's
+<i>Service of Man</i> ) "could not impair the captivating
+comradeship of his prime."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MagdalenC1" id="MagdalenC1">MAGDALEN COLLEGE (1) SITE
+AND BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "Where yearly in that vernal hour
+ The sacred city is in shades reclining,
+ With gilded turrets in the sunrise shining:
+ From sainted Magdalene's aerial tower
+ Sounds far aloof that ancient chant are singing,
+ And round the heart again those solemn memories bringing."
+                                           ISAAC WILLIAMS.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Macaulay was too good a Cambridge man to appreciate an Oxford
+college at its full worth; but he devotes one of his finest purple
+patches to the praise of Magdalen, ending, as is fitting, "with the
+spacious gardens along the river side," which, by the way, are not
+"gardens." Antony Wood praises Magdalen as "the most noble and rich
+structure in the learned world," with its water walks as
+"delectable as the banks of Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont
+to walk." To go a century further back, the Elizabethan, Sir John
+Davies, wrote:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "O honeyed Magdalen, sweete, past compare
+            Of all the blissful heavens on earth that are."
+</pre>
+<p>Such praises could be multiplied indefinitely, and they are all
+deserved.</p>
+<p>The good genius of Magdalen has been faithful to it throughout.
+The old picturesque buildings on the High Street, taken over (1457)
+by the Founder, William of Waynflete, from the already existing
+hospital of St. John, were completed by his munificence in the most
+attractive style of English fifteenth century domestic
+architecture; Chapel and Hall, Cloisters and Founder's Tower, all
+alike are among the most beautiful in Oxford. When classical taste
+prevailed, the architectural purists of the eighteenth century were
+for sweeping almost all this away, and had a plan prepared for
+making a great classic quad; but wiser counsels, or lack of funds,
+thwarted this vandalistic design, and only the north side of the
+new quad was built, to give Magdalen a splendid specimen of
+eighteenth century work, without prejudice to the old. And in our
+own day, the genius of Bodley has raised in St. Swithun's Quad a
+building worthy of the best days of Oxford, while the hideous
+plaster roof, with which the mischievous Wyatt had marred the
+beauty of the hall, was removed, and a seemly oak roof put in its
+place. It is a great thing to be thankful for, that one set of
+college buildings in Oxford, though belonging to so many periods,
+has nothing that is not of the best.</p>
+<p>But the great glory of Magdalen has not yet been mentioned. This
+is, without doubt, its bell tower, which, standing just above the
+River Cherwell, is worthily seen, whether from near or far. A most
+curious and interesting custom is preserved in connection with it.
+Every May morning, at five o'clock (in Antony Wood's time the
+ceremony was an hour earlier), the choir mounts the tower and sings
+a hymn, which is part of the college grace; in the eighteenth
+century, however, the music was of a secular nature and lasted two
+hours. The ceremony has been made the subject of a great picture by
+Holman Hunt, and has been celebrated in many poems; the sonnet of
+Sir Herbert Warren, the present President, may be quoted as
+worthily expressing something of what has been felt by many
+generations of Magdalen men:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Morn of the year, of day and May the prime,
+            How fitly do we scale the steep dark stair,
+            Into the brightness of the matin air,
+            To praise with chanted hymn and echoing chime,
+            Dear Lord of Light, thy sublime,
+            That stooped erewhile our life's frail weeds to wear!
+            Sun, cloud and hill, all things thou fam'st so fair,
+            With us are glad and gay, greeting the time.
+            The College of the Lily leaves her sleep,
+            The grey tower rocks and trembles into sound,
+            Dawn-smitten Memnon of a happier hour;
+            Through faint-hued fields the silver waters creep:
+            Day grows, birds pipe, and robed anew and crowned,
+            Green Spring trips forth to set the world aflower."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p13"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p13.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"369" height="482" border="3" alt="Plate XIII. Magdalen Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIII. Magdalen Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The tower was put to a far different use when, in the Civil War,
+it was the fortress against an attack from the east, and stones
+were piled on its top to overwhelm any invader who might force the
+bridge.</p>
+<p>Tradition connects this tower with the name of Magdalen's
+greatest son, Thomas Wolsey, who took his B.A. about 1486, at the
+age of fifteen, as he himself in his old age proudly told his
+servant and biographer, Cavendish. Certainty he was first Junior
+and then Senior Bursar for a time, while the tower was building,
+1492-1504. But the scandal that he had to resign his bursarship for
+misappropriation of funds in connection with the tower may
+certainly be rejected.</p>
+<p>On the right of Magdalen Bridge, looking at the tower, as we see
+it in the picture, stretches Magdalen Meadow, round which run the
+famous water walks. The part of these on the north-west side is
+especially connected with Joseph Addison, who was a fellow at
+Magdalen from 1697 to 1711. He was elected "demy" (at Magdalen,
+scholars bear this name) the first year (1689) after the
+Revolution, when the fellows of Magdalen had been restored to their
+rights, so outrageously invaded by King James. This "golden"
+election was famous in Magdalen annals, at once for the number
+elected&mdash;seventeen&mdash;and for the fame of some of those
+elected. Besides the greatest of English essayists, there were
+among the new "demies," a future archbishop, a future bishop, and
+the high Tory, Henry Sacheverell, whose fiery but unbalanced
+eloquence overthrew the great Whig Ministry, which had been the
+patron of his college contemporary.</p>
+<p>Magdalen Meadow preserves still the well-beloved Oxford
+fritillaries, which are in danger of being extirpated in the fields
+below Iffley by the crowds who gather them to sell in the Oxford
+market.</p>
+<p>Of the part of the College on the High Street, the most
+interesting portion is the old stone pulpit (shown in <a href=
+"#p14">Plate XIV</a>). The connection of this with the old Hospital
+of St. John is still marked by the custom of having the University
+sermon here on St. John the Baptist's Day; this was the invariable
+rule till the eighteenth century, and the pulpit (Hearne says) was
+"all beset with boughs, by way of allusion to St. John Baptist's
+preaching in the wilderness." Even as early as Heame's time,
+however, a wet morning drove preacher and audience into the chapel,
+and open-air sermons were soon given up altogether, only to be
+revived (weather permitting) in our own day.<br>
+ The chapel lies to the left of the pulpit, and is known all the
+world over for its music; there are three famous choirs in
+Oxford&mdash;those of the Cathedral, of New College, and of
+Magdalen, and to the last, as a rule, the palm is assigned. It is
+to Oxford what the choir of King's is to Cambridge; but the chapel
+of Magdalen has not</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "The high embowed roof
+            With antique pillars massy proof,
+            And storied windows richly dight,
+            Casting a dim religious light"
+</pre>
+<p>of the "Royal Saint's" great chapel at Cambridge.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="MagdalenC2" id="MagdalenC2">MAGDALEN COLLEGE (2)
+HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Sing sweetly, blessed babes that suck the breast
+ Of this sweet nectar-dropping Magdalen,
+ Their praise in holy hymns, by whom ye feast,
+ The God of gods and Waynflete, best of men,
+ Sing in an union with the Angel's quires,
+ Sith Heaven's your house."
+                                 SIR J. DAVIES.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Magdalen College was founded by William of Waynflete, Bishop of
+Winchester, who had been a faithful minister of Henry VI. He had
+served as both Master and Provost of the King's own college at Eton
+(and also as Master of Winchester College before), and from Eton he
+brought the lilies which still figure in the Magdalen shield. As a
+member of the Lancastrian party, he fell into disgrace when the
+Yorkists triumphed, but he made his peace with Edward IV, whose
+statue stands over the west door of the chapel, with those of St.
+Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, St. Swithun (Bishop of
+Winchester), and the Founder. And the Tudors were equally friendly
+to the new foundation; Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's unfortunate
+elder brother, was a resident in Magdalen on two occasions, and the
+College has still a splendid memorial of him in the great
+contemporary tapestry, representing his marriage with Catharine of
+Aragon.</p>
+<p>To the very early days of Magdalen belongs its connection with
+the Oxford Reform Movement and the Revival of Learning. Both Fox
+and Wolsey, successively Bishops of Winchester, and the munificent
+founders of Corpus and of Cardinal (i.e. Christ Church) Colleges,
+were members of Waynflete's foundation) and so probably was John
+Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, whose learning and piety so impressed
+Erasmus. "When I listen to my beloved Colet," he writes in 1499, "I
+seem to be listening to Plato himself"; and he asks&mdash;why go to
+Italy when Oxford can supply a climate "as charming as it is
+healthful" and "such culture and learning, deep, exact and worthy
+of the good old times ?" Erasmus' praise of Oxford climate is
+unusual from a foreigner; the more usual view is that of his friend
+Vives, who came to Oxford soon after as a lecturer at the new
+college of Corpus Christi; he writes from Oxford: "The weather here
+is windy, foggy and damp, and gave me a rough reception."</p>
+<p>Colet's lectures on the Epistle to the Romans, perhaps delivered
+in Magdalen College, marked an epoch in the way of the
+interpretation of Holy Scripture, by their freedom from traditional
+methods and by their endeavour to employ the best of the New
+Learning in determining the real meaning of the Apostle. To the
+same school as Colet in the Church belonged Reginald Pole,
+Archbishop in the gloomy days of Queen Mary, the only Magdalen man
+who has held the See of Canterbury.</p>
+<p>Elizabeth visited the College, and gently rebuked the Puritan
+tendencies of the then President, Dr. Humphrey, who carried his
+scruples so far as to object to the academical scarlet he had to
+wear as a Doctor of Divinity, because it savoured of the "Scarlet
+Woman." "Dr. Humphrey," said the queen, with the tact alike of a
+Tudor sovereign and of a true woman, "methinks this gown and habit
+become you very well, and I marvel that you are so strait-laced on
+this point&mdash;but I come not now to chide." This President
+complained that his headship was "more payneful than gayneful," a
+charge not usually brought against headships at Oxford.</p>
+<p>In the seventeenth century, Magdalen was, for a short time, the
+very centre of England's interest. James II, in his desire to force
+Roman Catholicism on Oxford, tried to fill the vacant Presidency
+with one of his co-religionists. His first nominee was not only
+disqualified under the statutes, but was also a man of so
+notoriously bad a character that even the king had to drop him.
+Meanwhile, the fellows, having waited, in order to oblige James,
+till the last possible moment allowed by the statutes, filled up
+the vacancy by electing one of their own number, John Hough. When
+the king pronounced this election irregular and demanded the
+removal of the President and the acceptance of his second nominee,
+the fellows declared themselves unable thus to violate their
+statutes, even at royal command, and were accordingly driven out.
+The "demies," who were offered nominations to the fellowships thus
+rendered vacant, supported their seniors, and, in their turn, too,
+were driven out; they had showed their contempt for James' intruded
+fellows by "cocking their hats" at them, and by drinking confusion
+to the Pope. When the landing of William of Orange was threatening,
+James revoked all these arbitrary proceedings, but it was too late;
+he had brought home, by a striking example, to Oxford and to
+England, that no amount of past services, no worthiness of
+character, no statutes, however clear and binding, were to weigh
+for a moment with a royal bigot, who claimed the power to
+"dispense" with any statutes. The "Restoration" of the Fellows on
+October 25, 1688, is still celebrated by a College Gaudy, when the
+toast for the evening is <i>jus suum cuique</i> .</p>
+<p>Hough remained President for thirteen years, during most of
+which time he was bishop&mdash;first of Oxford and then of
+Lichfield. He finally was translated to Worcester, where he died at
+the age of ninety-three, after declining the Archbishopric of
+Canterbury. His monument, in his cathedral, records his famous
+resistance to arbitrary authority.</p>
+<p>Magdalen in the eighteenth century has an unenviable reputation,
+owing to the memoirs of its most famous historian, Edward Gibbon,
+who matriculated, in 1752, and who describes the fourteen months
+which elapsed before he was expelled for becoming a Roman Catholic,
+"as the most idle and unprofitable of my whole life." The "Monks of
+Magdalen," as he calls the fellows, "decent, easy men," "supinely
+enjoyed the gifts of the founder." It should be added that Gibbon
+was not quite fifteen when he entered the College, and that his
+picture of it is no doubt coloured by personal bitterness. But its
+substantial justice is admitted. Certainly, nothing could be
+feebler than the <i>Vindication of Magdalen College</i> , published
+by a fellow James Hurdis, the Professor of Poetry; his intellectual
+calibre may perhaps be gauged from the exquisite silliness of his
+poem, "The Village Curate," of which the following lines, addressed
+to the Oxford heads of houses, are a fair specimen:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Ye profound
+            And serious heads, who guard the twin retreats
+            Of British learning, give the studious boy
+            His due indulgence. Let him range the field,
+            Frequent the public walk, and freely pull
+            The yielding oar. But mark the truant well,
+            And if he turn aside to vice or folly,
+            Show him the rod, and let him feel you prize
+            The parent's happiness, the public good."
+</pre>
+<p>Magdalen might fairly claim that a place so beautiful as it is,
+justifies itself by simply existing, and the perfection of its
+buildings and the beauty of its music must appeal, even to our own
+utilitarian age. But it has many other justifications besides its
+beauty; its great wealth is being continually applied to assist the
+University by the endowment of new professorships, especially for
+the Natural Sciences, and to aid real students, whether those who
+have made, or those who are likely to make, a reputation as
+researchers. It is needless to mention names: every Oxford man and
+every lover of British learning knows them.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p14"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p14.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"362" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air Pulpit"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air
+Pulpit</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>For the world in general, which cares not for research, the
+success of the College under its present President, Sir Herbert
+Warren, himself at once a poet and an Oxford Professor of Poetry,
+will be evidenced by its increase in numbers and by its athletic
+successes. They will judge as our King judged when he chose
+Magdalen for the academic home of the Prince of Wales. The Prince,
+unlike other royal persons at Magdalen and elsewhere, lived
+(1912-14) not in the lodgings of the President, or among dons and
+professors, but in his own set of rooms, like any ordinary
+undergraduate. He showed, in Oxford, that power of self-adaptation
+which has since won him golden opinions in the great Dominion and
+the greater Republic of the West.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="BrasenoseC" id="BrasenoseC">BRASENOSE COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Of the colleges of Oxford, Exeter is the most
+ proper for western, Queen's for northern, and
+ Brasenose for north-western men."
+                          FULLER, <i>Worthies.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p15"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p15.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="484" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and Radcliffe Library"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and
+Radcliffe Library</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Brasenose college is in the very centre of the University,
+fronting as it does on Radcliffe Square, where Gibbs' beautiful
+dome supplies the Bodleian with a splendid reading-room. And this
+site has always been consecrated to students; where the front of
+Brasenose now stands ran School Street, leading from the old
+<i>Scholae Publicae</i> , in which the disputations of the
+Mediaeval University were held, to St. Mary's Church.</p>
+<p>It was from this neighbourhood that some Oxford scholars
+migrated to Stamford in 1334, in order to escape one of the many
+Town and Gown rows, which rendered Mediaeval Oxford anything but a
+place of quiet academic study. They seem to have carried with them
+the emblem of their hall, a fine sanctuary knocker of brass,
+representing a lion's head, with a ring through its nose; this
+knocker was installed at a house in Stamford, which still retains
+the name it gave, "Brasenose Hall." The knocker itself was there
+till 1890, when the College recovered the relic (it now hangs in
+the hall). The students were compelled by threats of
+excommunication to return to their old university, and down to the
+beginning of the nineteenth century, Oxford men, when admitted to
+the degree of M.A., were compelled to swear "not to lecture at
+Stamford."</p>
+<p>The old "King's Hall," which bore the name of "Brasenose," was
+transformed into a college in 1511 by the munificence of our first
+lay founder, Sir Richard Sutton; he shared his benevolence,
+however, with Bishop Smith, of Lincoln. The College celebrated, in
+1911, its quatercentenary in an appropriate way, by publishing its
+register in full, with a group of most interesting monographs on
+various aspects of the College history.</p>
+<p>The buildings are a good example of the typical Oxford college;
+the Front Quad, shown in our picture, belongs to the time of the
+Founders, but the picturesque third story of dormer windows, which
+give it a special charm, dates from the reign of James I, when all
+colleges were rapidly increasing their numbers and their
+accommodation. Of the rest of the buildings of Brasenose, the
+chapel deserves special notice, for it was the last effort of the
+Gothic style in Oxford, and it was actually finished in the days of
+Cromwell, not a period likely to be favourable to the erection of
+new college chapels.</p>
+<p>Brasenose (or B.N.C., as it is universally called) has produced
+a prime minister of England in Henry Addington, whom the college
+record kindly describes as "not the most distinguished" statesman
+who has held that position: but a much better known worthy is John
+Foxe, the Martyrologist, whose chained works used to add a grim
+charm of horror to so many parish churches in England; the
+experiences of the young Macaulay, at Cheddar, are an example which
+could be paralleled by those of countless young readers of Foxe,
+who, however, did not become great historians and are forgotten.
+Somewhat junior to Foxe, at B.N.C., was Robert Burton, the author
+of the <i>Anatomy of Melancholy</i> , who found both his lifework
+as a parish vicar, and his burial-place in Oxford.</p>
+<p>But these names, and the names of many other B.N.C. worthies,
+hardly attain to the first rank in the annals of England's life.
+The distinguishing features of the College have long been its
+special connection with the Palatine counties, Lancashire and
+Cheshire, and its prominence in the athletic life which is so large
+a part of Oxford's attraction. To the connection with Lancashire,
+B.N.C. owes the name of its college boat, "The Child of Hale"; for
+John Middleton, the famous, giant, who is said to have been 9 ft. 3
+in. high (perhaps measurements were loose when James I was king),
+was invited by the members of his county to visit the College,
+where he is said to have left a picture of his hand; this the ever
+curious Pepys paid 2s. to see. A more profitable connection between
+Lancashire and B.N.C. is the famous Hulmeian endowment, which is
+almost a record instance of the value of the unearned increment of
+land to a learned foundation.</p>
+<p>The rowing men of Brasenose are as famous as the scholars of
+Balliol. The poet parodist, half a century ago, described her
+as:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Queen of the Isis wave,
+            Who trains her crews on beef and beer,
+            Competitors to brave,"
+</pre>
+<p>and the lines written in jest were a true compliment. The young
+manhood of England had maintained its vigour by its love of
+athletics, and has learned, in the discipline of the athletic club,
+how to obey and also how to command. Hence it was fitting that to
+B.N.C. should fall the honour of giving to Britain her greatest
+soldier in the Great War; Lord Haig of Bemerside was an
+undergraduate member of the College in the 'eighties of the last
+century, and the College has honoured him and itself by making him
+an Honorary Fellow.</p>
+<p>Most Oxford colleges have their quaint and distinctive customs;
+that of Brasenose was certainly not inappropriate to the character
+that has just been sketched. Every Shrove Tuesday some junior
+member of the College presented verses to the butler in honour of
+Brasenose ale, and received a draught in return. The custom is
+recorded by Hearne more than two hundred years ago, and may well be
+older, though, as the poet of the Quatercentenary sadly confessed,
+its attribution to King Alfred&mdash;</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Our woven fantasy of Alfred's ale,
+            By conclusive cut of critic dry,
+            Is shredded clean away."
+</pre>
+<p>The most distinguished poet who thus commemorated the special
+drink of England and of B.N.C. was Reginald Heber, bishop and
+hymn-writer, who composed the verses in 1806; the compositions have
+been collected and published at least three times. When the old
+brew-house was pulled down to make room for the New Quad, the
+College gave up brewing its own beer, and its poets ceased to
+celebrate it; but the custom was revived, as has been said, in
+1909. It may be permitted to a non-Brasenose man to quote and echo
+the patriotic expressions of the versifier of 1886:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Shall Brasenose, therefore, fail to hold her own?
+            She nerves herself, anew, for coming strife,
+            Her vigorous pulses beat with strength and life.
+            Courage, my brothers! Troubles past forget!
+            On to fresh deeds! the gods love Brasenose yet."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="CorpusC" id="CorpusC">CORPUS CHIRSTI COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"But still the old quadrangle keeps the same,
+ The pelican is here;
+ Ancestral genius of the place, whose name
+ All Corpus men revere."
+             J. J. C., in "<i>The Pelican Record,</i>" 1700.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p16"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p16.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"362" height="474" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First Quadrangle"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First
+Quadrangle</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Corpus is emphatically, before all other colleges in Oxford, the
+college of the Revival of Learning; its very foundation marked the
+change from the old order of things to the new. Its Founder, Bishop
+Foxe, of Winchester, was one of the great statesman-prelates to
+whom mediaeval England owed so much, and he had a leading share in
+arranging the two royal marriages which so profoundly affected the
+history of our country, that of Henry VII's daughter, Margaret,
+with the King of Scotland, and that of his son, afterwards Henry
+VIII, with Catharine of Aragon.</p>
+<p>After a life spent "in the service of God" "in the State,"
+rather than "in the Church," Foxe resolved to devote some of his
+great wealth to a foundation for the strengthening of the Church.
+His first intention was to found a college for monks, but,
+fortunately for his memory and for Oxford, he followed the advice
+of his friend, Bishop Oldham, of Exeter, who told him, in words
+truly prophetic, that the days of monasteries were past: "What, my
+lord, shall we build housed for a company of buzzing monks, whose
+end and fall we ourselves may live to see? No, no, it is more meet
+a great deal that we should have care to provide for the increase
+of learning." In the next generation the monasteries were all swept
+away, while Foxe's College remains a monument of the Founder's
+pious liberality and of his friend's wise prescience.</p>
+<p>Corpus was the first institution in England where definite
+provision was made for a teacher of the Greek Language, and Erasmus
+hailed it with enthusiasm; in a letter to the first President of
+the new college, he definitely contrasts the conciliatory methods
+of Reformers in England with the more violent methods of those in
+Germany, and counts Foxe's foundation, which he compares to the
+Pyramids of Egypt or the Colossus of Rhodes, among "the chief
+glories of Britain."</p>
+<p>Foxe, however, did not confine his benefactions to classical
+studies, important as these were. He imported a German to teach his
+scholars mathematics, and the scientific tastes of his students are
+well illustrated by the picturesque and curious dial, still in the
+centre of his College Quad, which was constructed by one of them in
+the reign of Elizabeth. It is well shown in our picture, as are
+also Foxe's charming low buildings, almost unaltered since the time
+of their Founder.</p>
+<p>But it has been on the humanistic, rather than on the
+scientific, side that Corpus men have specially distinguished
+themselves. The first century of the College existence produced the
+two great Elizabethan champions of Anglicanism. Bishop Jewel, whose
+"Apology" was for a long period the great bulwark of the English
+Church against Jesuit attacks, had laid the foundations of his
+great learning in the Corpus Library, still&mdash;after that of
+Merton&mdash;the most picturesque in Oxford; he often spent whole
+days there, beginning an hour before Early Mass, i.e. at 4 a.m.,
+and continuing his reading till 10 p.m. "There were giants on the
+earth in those days." Even more famous is the "judicious Hooker,"
+who resided in the college for sixteen years, and only left it
+when, by the wiles of a woman, he, "like a true Nathanael who
+feared no guile" (as his biographer, Isaac Walton, writes), was
+entrapped into a marriage which "brought him neither beauty nor
+fortune." The first editor of his great work, <i>The Ecclesiastical
+Polity</i> , was a Corpus man, and it was only fitting that the
+Anglican Revival of the nineteenth century should receive its first
+impulse from the famous Assize Sermon (in 1833) of another Corpus
+scholar, John Keble.</p>
+<p>Corpus has been singularly fortunate in its history, no doubt
+because its Presidents have been so frequently men of mark for
+learning and for character. Even in the dark period of the
+eighteenth century it recovered sooner than the rest of the
+University, and one of its sons records complacently that "scarcely
+a day passed without my having added to my stock of knowledge some
+new fact or idea." A charming picture of the life of the scholars
+of Corpus at the beginning of the last century is given in
+Stanley's <i>Life of Arnold</i> ; for the famous reformer of the
+English public-school system was at the College immediately after
+John Keble, whom he followed as fellow to Oriel, on the other side
+of the road. It need hardly be added that in those days an Oriel
+Fellowship was the crown of intellectual distinction in Oxford.</p>
+<p>Bishop Foxe had set up his college as a "ladder" by which, "with
+one side of it virtue and the other knowledge," men might, while
+they "are strangers and pilgrims in this unhappy and dying world,"
+"mount more easily to heaven." Changing his metaphor he goes on,
+"We have founded and raised up in the University of Oxford a hive
+wherein scholars, like intelligent bees, may, night and day, build
+up wax to the glory of God, and gather honeyed sweets for their own
+profit and that of all Christian men." So far as it is given to
+human institutions to succeed, his college has fulfilled his
+aims.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC1" id="ChristC1">CHRIST CHURCH (1) THE
+CATHEDRAL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Those voiceless towers so tranquil seem,
+ And yet so solemn in their might,
+ A loving heart could almost deem
+ That they themselves might conscious be
+ That they were filled with immortality."
+                           F. W. FABER.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p17"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p17.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"482" height="366" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Meadows"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral
+from the Meadows</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The east end of Oxford Cathedral, shown both in the frontispiece
+(<a href="#p1">Plate I</a>) and <a href="#p17">Plate XVII</a>,
+probably contains the oldest buildings, above ground, in Oxford.
+Inside the cathedral can clearly be seen traces of three round
+arches, which may well be part of the church founded by St.
+Frideswyde in the eighth century. That princess, according to the
+tradition, the details of which are all pictured by Burne-Jones in
+the east window of the Latin Chapel, having escaped by a miracle
+the advances of too ardent a suitor, founded a nunnery at Oxford.
+The nunnery, which was later transferred to Canons, was undoubtedly
+the earliest institution in Oxford, and in its cloisters, in the
+second decade of the twelfth century, we hear of students gathering
+for instruction. It was this old monastery, which Wolsey, with his
+reforming zeal, chose as the site of his great Cardinal College,
+and the chapel of the old foundation was to serve for his new one,
+until such time as a great new chapel, rivalling in splendour that
+of King's College at Cambridge, had been built on the north side of
+Tom Quad. This new chapel never got beyond the stage of
+foundations; and hence the old building has continued to serve the
+college till this day, having been made also the cathedral of the
+new diocese of Oxford, which was founded by King Henry VIII. Wolsey
+may, perhaps, be credited with the fine fan tracery of the choir
+roof, but he certainly swept away three bays of the nave in order
+to carry out his ambitious building plans, and only one of these
+three bays has been restored in the nineteenth century.</p>
+<p>Wolsey's action at Christ Church was significant. Men felt that
+the days of monasteries were past, and the Church was ready to
+welcome and to extend the New Learning. But his changes were a
+dangerous precedent; as Fuller says with his usual quaintness: "All
+the forest of religious foundations in England did shake, justly
+fearing the King would finish to fell the oaks, seeing the Cardinal
+began to cut the underwood." Henry, however, when he swept away the
+monasteries, spared his great minister's work; modifying it,
+however, as has just been said, by associating the newly-founded
+college with the diocese of Oxford, now formed out of the unwieldy
+See of Lincoln.</p>
+<p>The cathedral is the smallest in England, but contains many
+features of special interest; its most marked peculiarity is the
+great breadth of the choir, due to the addition of two aisles on
+the north side; these were built to gain more room for the
+worshippers at the shrine of St. Frideswyde. Another feature of
+architectural interest is the spire, which is one of the earliest
+in England. But perhaps even more interesting is the wonderful
+series of glass windows, which give good examples of almost every
+English style from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century. And
+for once the moderns can hold their own; the Burne-Jones windows of
+the choir (not, however, the Frideswyde window, already mentioned)
+are particularly beautiful.</p>
+<p>The hand of the "restorer" has been active at Christ Church, as
+elsewhere in Oxford; Gilbert Scott took on himself to remove a fine
+fourteenth-century window from the east end of the choir, and to
+substitute the Norman work shown in <a href="#p1">Plate I</a>. The
+effect is admittedly good, but it may be questioned whether it be
+right to falsify architectural history in this way.</p>
+<p>Oxford Cathedral has great associations apart from the college
+to which it belongs. It was to it that Cranmer was brought to
+receive the Pope's sentence of condemnation, and in the cloisters
+the ceremony of his degradation from the archbishopric was carried
+out. Almost a century later the Cathedral was the centre of the
+religious life of the Royalist party; when Charles I made his
+capital in Oxford and his home in Christ Church, and when the
+Cavaliers fought to the war-cry of "Church and King." It is not
+surprising that, when the Parliamentarians entered Oxford, the
+windows of the Cathedral were much "abused"; that so much old glass
+was spared was probably due to the local patriotism of old Oxford
+men.</p>
+<p>In the next century it was to Christ Church that Bishop
+Berkeley, the greatest of British philosophers, retired to end his
+days, and to find a burial-place; and, during the long life of Dr.
+Pusey, the Cathedral of Oxford was a place of pilgrimage, as the
+living centre of the Oxford movement.</p>
+<p>In the back of the picture (<a href="#p17">Plate XVII</a>),
+behind the Cathedral, rises the square tower, put up by Mr. Bodley
+to contain the famous Christ Church peal of bells (now twelve in
+number), familiar through Dean Aldrich's famous round, "Hark, the
+bonny Christ Church bells." When the tower was erected, it was the
+subject of much criticism, especially from the witty pen of C. L.
+Dodgson, the world-famous creator of <i>Alice in Wonderland</i> .
+The opening paragraph is a fair specimen:</p>
+<p>"Of the etymological significance of the new belfry, Christ
+Church.</p>
+<p>"The word 'belfry' is derived from the French ' <i>bel</i> &mdash;
+beautiful, meet,' and from the German ' <i>frei</i> &mdash;free,
+unfettered, safe.' Thus the word is strictly equivalent to
+'meat-safe,' to which the new belfry bears a resemblance so perfect
+as almost to amount to coincidence."</p>
+<p>Others saw in the uncompromising squareness of the new tower a
+subtle compliment to the Greek lexicon of Liddell, who then was
+Dean. But in spite of the wits, who resented any innovation in so
+famous a group of buildings, Bodley's tower is a fine one, and
+really enhances the effect of Tom Quad.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC2" id="ChristC2">CHRIST CHURCH (2) THE HALL
+STAIRCASE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"And love the high-embowed roof
+ With antique pillars massy proof."
+                            MILTON
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p18"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p18.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"366" height="486" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall Staircase"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall
+Staircase</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>When Wolsey began to build what he intended to be the most
+splendid college in the world, the first part to be finished was
+the dining-hall, with the kitchen. The wits of the time made very
+merry at this: their epigram <i>Egregium opus! Cardinalis iste
+instituit collegium et absolvit popinam</i> may be rendered:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Here's a fine piece of work! Your Cardinal
+            A college plans, completes a guzzling-hall."
+</pre>
+<p>Certainly the hall of Christ Church is the finest "popina" which
+has ever been abused by envious critics; its size and magnificence
+place it easily first among the halls of Oxford, and its great
+outline stands conspicuous in all views of Oxford from the south,
+whether by day, or when by night, to quote M. Arnold's
+"Thyrsis":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "The line of festal light in Christ Church Hall"
+</pre>
+<p>shines afar. And the kitchen, a perfect cube in shape, is worthy
+of the hall which it feeds, and is, perhaps, more appreciated by
+many of Oxford's visitors; for the taste for meringues is more
+common than that for masterpieces of portraiture. The report to
+Wolsey, in 1526, by his agent, the Warden of New College, is still
+true; the kitchen is "substantially and goodly done, in such manner
+as no two of the best colleges in Oxford have rooms so goodly and
+convenient."<br>
+<br>
+The approach to the hall, seen in <a href="#p18">Plate XVIII</a>,
+is later than Wolsey's work, but is fully worthy of him. The
+beautiful fan tracery, which hardly suffers by being compared with
+Henry VII's Chapel at Westminster, was put up, extraordinary as it
+may seem, in the middle of the seventeenth century, by the elder
+Dean Fell; all we know of its origin is that it was the work of
+"Smith, an artificer of London," surely the most modest architect
+who ever designed a masterpiece. The staircase itself is later, the
+work of the notorious Wyatt, who for once meddled with a great
+building without spoiling it.</p>
+<p>The history of Christ Church is very largely the history of the
+University of Oxford. It is still our wealthiest and largest
+foundation, although the disproportion between it and other
+colleges is by no means so great as it once was; and, thanks to its
+having been ruled by a series of famous and energetic deans, its
+periods of inglorious inactivity have been fewer than those of most
+other colleges. The roll of deans contains such names as those of
+John Owen, the most famous of Puritan preachers, John Fell,
+theologian and founder of the greatness of the Oxford Press, Henry
+Aldrich, universally accomplished as scholar, logician, musician,
+architect, Francis Atterbury, Jacobite and plotter, Cyril Jackson,
+who ruled Christ Church with a rod of iron, and who ranks first
+among the creators of nineteenth-century Oxford, Thomas Gaisford
+and Henry George Liddell, great Greek scholars. It seems that a
+college gains something by having its head appointed from outside;
+the Dean at Christ Church is appointed by the Crown.</p>
+<p>The importance of Christ Church is especially seen in its hall,
+through its collection of portraits. It is not only that this is
+superior to that of any one other college; it may well be doubted
+if the combined efforts of all the colleges could produce a
+collection equal to that of Christ Church in artistic merit, or
+superior to it in historical importance. The prime ministers of
+England, of whom Christ Church claims twelve (nine of them in the
+last century), are represented among others by George Grenville,
+the unfortunate author of the Stamp Act, George Canning, who called
+"the New World into existence to redress the balance of the Old,"
+and W. E. Gladstone; among the eight Christ Church men who have
+been Governor-Generals of India, the Marquess Wellesley stands out
+pre-eminent; Christ Church has sent five archbishops to Canterbury
+and nine to York; there is a portrait in the hall of Wake, the most
+famous of the holders of the See of Canterbury. Lord Mansfield's
+picture worthily represents the learning and impartiality of the
+English Bench. But even more interesting than any of those already
+mentioned are the portraits of John Locke, who was philosopher
+enough to forgive Christ Church for obeying James II and expelling
+him, of William Penn, presented, as was fitting, by the American
+state that bears his name, of John Wesley and of Dr. Pusey, whose
+names will be for ever associated with the two greatest of Oxford's
+religious movements. And it may well be hoped that C. L. Dodgson
+("Lewis Carroll") will delight children for many generations to
+come, as he has delighted those of the last half-century, by his
+Alice and her "Adventures."</p>
+<p>An interest, rather historical than personal, attaches to the
+group portrait that occupies a position of honour over the
+fireplace; it represents the three Oxford divines&mdash;John Fell
+(already mentioned), Dolben, who later was Archbishop of York, and
+Allestree, afterwards Provost of Eton, who braved the penal law
+against churchmen by reading the forbidden Church Service daily all
+through the time of the Commonwealth.</p>
+<p>Nowhere, so much as in Christ Church, is the poet's description
+of Oxford appropriate; her students may:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Stand, in many an ancient hall,
+            Where England's greatest deck the wall,
+            Prelate and Statesman, prince and poet;
+            Who hath an ear, let him hear them call."
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p19"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p19.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"372" height="488" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="ChristC3" id="ChristC3">CHRIST CHURCH (3) "TOM"
+TOWER</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Those twins of learning, which he raised in you,
+ Ipswich and Oxford, one of which fell with him;
+ The other, though unfinished, yet so famous,
+ So excellent in art, and still so rising,
+ That Christendom shall ever speak his virtue."
+                       SHAKESPEARE, <i>Henry VIII.</i>
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Oxford is described by Matthew Amold as,</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Beautiful city, with her dreaming spires,"
+</pre>
+<p>yet it is for her towers, especially, that she is famous.
+Glorious as St. Mary's is, it certainly does not surpass Magdalen
+Tower; and it may well be doubted whether the genius of Wren has
+not excelled both Magdalen and St. Mary's in "Tom" Tower. Gothic
+purists, of course, do not like it. There is a well-authenticated
+story of a really great architect who, in the early days of the
+twentieth century, was asked to submit a scheme for its repair;
+after long delay he sent in a plan for an entirely new tower on
+correct Gothic lines, because (as he wrote) no one would wish to
+preserve "so anomalous a structure" as Tom Tower. The world,
+however, does not agree with the minute critics; it is easy to find
+fault with the details of "Tom," but in proportion, in dignity, in
+suitability to his position, the greatest qualities that can be
+required in any building, "Tom" is pre-eminent. This is the more to
+be wondered at, as the tower was erected a century and a half after
+the great gateway which it crowns.</p>
+<p>The genius of Wolsey had planned a magnificent front, but only a
+little more than half of it was completed when Henry VIII ended the
+career of his greatest servant, and altered the plans of the most
+glorious college in Europe. It was not till the period just before
+the Civil War that the northern part of the front of Christ Church
+was built by the elder Dean Fell, and the work was only completed
+when his son, the famous Dr. Fell, doomed to eternal notoriety by
+the well-known rhymes about his mysterious unpopularity, employed
+Wren to build the gate tower. Yet the whole presents one harmonious
+design, worthy of the most famous of Oxford founders and of the
+greatest of British architects. It is fitting that it should be
+Wolsey's statue which adorns the gate&mdash;a statue given by stout
+old Jonathan Trelawny, one of the Seven Bishops, whose name is
+perpetuated by the refrain of Hawker's spirited ballad, which
+deceived even Macaulay as to its authenticity:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "And must Trelawny die?
+            Then thirty thousand Cornish men
+            Will know the reason why."
+</pre>
+<p>Tom Tower appeals to Oxford men through more than one of their
+senses; it is a most conspicuous object in every view; and in it is
+hung the famous bell, "Great Tom," the fourth largest bell in
+England, weighing over seven tons. This once belonged to Osney
+Abbey, when it was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and bore
+the legend:</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "In Thomae laude resono Bim Bom sine fraude."
+</pre>
+<p>It was transplanted to Christ Church in the reign of Queen Mary,
+and at the time it was proposed to rechristen it "Pulcra Maria," in
+honour at once of the Queen and of the Blessed Virgin; but the old
+name prevailed. Every night but one, from May 29, 1684, until the
+Great War silenced him, Tom has sounded out, after 9 p.m., his 101
+strokes, as a signal that all should be within their college walls;
+the number is the number of the members of the foundation of Christ
+Church in 1684, when the tower was finished. During the war Tom was
+forbidden to sound, along with all other Oxford bells and clocks,
+for might not his mighty voice have guided some zeppelin or German
+aeroplane to pour down destruction on Oxford? Few things brought
+home more to Oxford the meaning of the Armistice than hearing Tom
+once more on the night of November 11, 1918.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p20"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p20.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="485" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XX. Christ Church : 'Tom' Tower"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XX. Christ Church : "Tom"
+Tower</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>A patriotic tradition claims for Tom the honour of having
+inspired Milton's lines in "Il Penseroso":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Hear the far-off curfew sound
+            Over some wide-watered, shore,
+            Swinging slow with sullen roar."
+</pre>
+<p>But it is difficult to believe this; Milton's connection with
+Oxford does not get nearer than Forest Hill, and blow the west wind
+as hard as it would, it could scarcely make Tom's voice reach so
+far. And the "wide-watered shore" is only appropriate to Oxford in
+flood time, the very last season when a poet would wish to remember
+it.</p>
+<p>The view in <a href="#p20">Plate XX</a> of the tower is taken
+from the front of Pembroke, and must have been often admired by
+Oxford's devoted son, Samuel Johnson, when, as a poor scholar of
+Pembroke, "he was generally to be seen (says his friend. Bishop
+Percy) lounging at the college gate, with a circle of young
+students round him, whom he was entertaining with his wit and
+keeping from their studies."</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="StJohnsC" id="StJohnsC">ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"An English home&mdash;gray twilight poured
+ On dewy pastures, dewy trees,
+ Softer than sleep, all things in order stored,
+ The haunt of ancient Peace."
+                              TENNYSON, Palace of Art.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p21"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p21.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"366" height="487" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden Front"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden
+Front</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>St. John's shares with Trinity and Hertford the distinction of
+having been twice founded. As the Cistercian College of St.
+Bernard, it owed its origin to Archbishop Chichele, the founder of
+All Souls', and it continued to exist for a century as a monastic
+institution. At the Reformation it was swept away with other
+monastic foundations by the greed of Henry VIII, but it was almost
+immediately refounded, in the reign of Mary, by Sir Thomas White,
+one of the greatest of London's Lord Mayors. In all these respects
+it has an exact parallel in Trinity, which had existed as a
+Benedictine foundation, being then called "Durham College," and
+which was refounded, in the same dark period of English History, by
+another eminent Londoner, Sir Thomas Pope. It is characteristic of
+England and of the English Reformation that men, who were
+undoubtedly in sympathy with the old form of the Faith, yet gave
+their wealth and their labours to found institutions which were to
+serve English religion and English learning under the new order of
+things.</p>
+<p>For the first generation after the Founder, St. John's was torn
+by the quarrels between those who wished to undo the work of the
+Reformation altogether, and those who wished to carry it further
+and to destroy the continuity of English Church tradition. The
+final triumph of the Anglican "Via Media" was the work, above all
+others, of William Laud, who came up as scholar to St. John's in
+1590, and who, for most of the half century that followed, was the
+predominant influence in the life of the University. First in his
+own college and then in Oxford generally, he secured the triumph of
+his views on religious doctrine and order. Of these, it is not the
+place to speak here, nor yet of Laud's services to Oxford as the
+restorer of discipline, the endower and encourager of learning, the
+organizer of academic life, whose statutes were to govern Oxford
+for more than two centuries; but it is indisputable that Laud takes
+one of the highest places on the roll of benefactors, both to the
+University as a whole and to his own college.</p>
+<p>It was fitting that one who did so much for St. John's should
+leave his mark on its buildings; the inner quadrangle was largely
+built by him, and it owes to him its most characteristic features,
+the two classic colonnades on its east and west sides, and the
+lovely garden front, one of the three most beautiful things in
+Oxford: the north-east corner of this is shown in <a href=
+"#p21">Plate XXI</a>.</p>
+<p>Laud's building work was done between 1631 and 1635, and in 1636
+Charles I and his Queen visited Oxford and were entertained in the
+newly-finished college. Much bad verse was written on this event,
+two lines of which as a specimen may be quoted from the
+quaintly-named poem, "Parnassus Biceps":</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+           "Was I not blessed with Charles and Mary's name,
+            Names wherein dwells all music? 'Tis the same."
+</pre>
+<p>The part of the entertainment to royalty on which the Archbishop
+specially prided himself was the play of The Hospital of Lovers,
+which was performed entirely by St. John's men, without "borrowing
+any one actor." Laud goes on to observe that, when the Queen
+borrowed the dresses and the scenery, and had it played over again
+by her players at Hampton Court, it was universally acknowledged
+that the professionals did not come up to the amateurs&mdash;a
+truly surprising and somewhat incredible verdict. St. John's,
+however, was always strong in dramatic ability; Shirley, the last
+great representative of the Elizabethan tradition, was a student
+there, and the library has the rare distinction of having possessed
+longest the same copy of the works of Shakespeare; it still has the
+second folio, presented in 1638, by one of the fellows. St. John's
+connection with the lighter side of literature has lasted to our
+own day; the most famous of Oxford parodies is still the Oxford
+Spectator, which has not been surpassed by any of its many
+imitators in the last half century.</p>
+<p>Other colleges, however, might challenge the supremacy of St.
+John's in the humours of literature.. In the richness and beauty of
+its garden it stands unrivalled, whether quantity or quality be the
+basis of comparison. It is not only that before the east front,
+seen in <a href="#p21">Plate XXI</a>, stretches the largest garden
+in Oxford; thanks to the skill and the care of the present
+garden-master, the Rev. H. J. Bidder, this shows from month to
+month, as the pageant of summer goes on, what wealth of colour and
+variety of bloom the English climate can produce. It may be said to
+be laid out on Bacon's rule: "There ought to be gardens for all
+months in the year, in which severally things of beauty may be then
+in season"; only for "year" we naturally must read "academic year."
+If Bacon is right, that a garden is the "purest of human
+pleasures," then, indeed, St. John's should be the Oxford
+paradise.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="WadhamC1" id="WadhamC1">WADHAM COLLEGE (1) THE
+BUILDINGS</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Here did Wren make himself a student home,
+ Or e'er he made a name that England loves;
+ I wonder if this straying shadow moves,
+ Adown the wall, as then he saw it roam."
+                                       A. UPSON.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p22"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p22.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"483" height="363" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from the Garden"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from
+the Garden</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The buildings of Wadham College have been pronounced by some
+good judges to be the most beautiful in Oxford. This is not,
+however, the usual opinion, nor is it my own, though, perhaps, it
+might be accepted if modified into the statement that Wadham is the
+most complete and perfect example of the ordinary type of college.
+However that may be, there are three points as to these buildings
+which are indisputable, and which are also most interesting to any
+lover of English architecture. They are:<br>
+</p>
+<pre class="leftstyle">
+    (1) Wadham is less altered than any other college in Oxford.
+    (2) It is the finest illustration of the fact that the Gothic style
+        survived in Oxford when it was being rapidly superseded
+        elsewhere.
+    (3) No building in Oxford (very few buildings anywhere) owe their
+        effect so completely to their simplicity and their absence of
+        adornment.
+</pre>
+<p>These three points must be illustrated in detail.</p>
+<p>Wadham is the youngest college in Oxford, for all those that
+have been founded since are refoundations of older institutions
+(but, as its first stone was laid in 1610, it has a respectable
+antiquity); yet the Front Quad is completely unaltered in design,
+and of the actual stonework, hardly any has had to be renewed.
+Could the Foundress return to life, she would find the college,
+which was to her as a son, completely familiar.</p>
+<p>The second point is a more important one. In the reign of
+Elizabeth, classical architecture was being rapidly introduced;
+Gothic was giving way before the style of Palladio, even as the New
+Learning was banishing the schoolmen from the schools. This change
+is markedly seen in the Elizabethan buildings at Cambridge,
+especially in Dr. Caius' work, so far as it has been allowed to
+survive in the college that bears his name. But in Oxford the old
+style went on for half the following century; in the great building
+period of the first two Stuarts the old models were still
+faithfully copied. It was the genius of Wren, which, by its
+magnificent success in the Sheldonian, ultimately caused the new
+style to prevail over the late Gothic, of which his own college,
+Wadham, is so striking an example.</p>
+<p>In Wadham the conservative Oxford workmen were inspired by the
+presence of Somerset masons, whom the Foundress brought up from her
+own county, so rich in the splendid Gothic of the fifteenth
+century. Hence the chapel of Wadham (shown in <a href="#p22">Plate
+XXII</a>) is to all intents and purposes the choir of a great
+Somerset church. So marked is the old style in its windows that
+some of the best authorities on architecture have maintained that
+the stonework of these could not have been made in the seventeenth
+century, but must have survived from some older building; Ferguson,
+the historian of architecture, when confronted with the fact that
+the college has still the detailed accounts showing how, week by
+week, the Jacobean masons worked, swept this evidence aside with
+the dictum&mdash;"No amount of documents could prove what was
+impossible." But here the "impossible" really happened.</p>
+<p>The permanence of Gothic in Oxford is a point for professional
+students; the studied simplicity, which is the great secret of
+Wadham's beauty, concerns everyone. The effect of the garden front
+is produced simply by the long lines of the string-courses and by
+the procession of the beautifully proportioned gables. Neither here
+nor in any part of the college is there a piece of carved work,
+except in the classical screen, which marks the entry to the hall.
+It may be noted that at Wadham and at Clare, Cambridge, the same
+effect is produced by the same means; different as the two colleges
+are, the one Gothic, the other classical, they have a restful and
+complete beauty which makes them specially attractive. And this is
+due more than anything else to the unbroken lines of the stonework,
+to which everything is kept in due subordination. Clare was
+building during half a century; Wadham was finished in three years;
+but both have been fortunate in being left alone; they have not
+been "improved" by later additions.</p>
+<p>The chapel at Wadham has another feature of great interest for
+those who visit it; the glass in it (not that in the ante-chapel)
+is all contemporary with the college, and is a first-rate example
+of the taste of early Stuart times. The apostles and the prophets
+of the side windows have few merits, except their age, and the fact
+that they illustrate what local craftsmen could do in the reign of
+James I; but the big east window is of a very different rank. The
+college authorities quarrelled with the local workmen, and
+introduced a foreign craftsman, Bernard van Ling from London. In
+our day he would have been called a "blackleg," and mobbed:
+perhaps, even in the seventeenth century, he needed protection, for
+the college built him a furnace in their garden, and he there
+produced the finest specimen of seventeenth century glass that
+Oxford can show. Even for those who are not students of glass, the
+Wadham windows are attractive with their two Jonahs and two whales,
+"The big one that swallowed Jonah, and the little one that Jonah
+swallowed" (to quote an old college jest).</p>
+<p>The gardens at Wadham are famous; they have not the magnificence
+of St. John's or the antiquarian charm of the old walls at New
+College or Merton; but, for the variety and fine growth of their
+trees, they are unsurpassed, though the glory of these is passing.
+Warden Wills planted them in the days of the French Revolution, and
+trees have their time to fall at last, even though they long
+survive their planters.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="WadhamC2" id="WadhamC2">WADHAM COLLEGE (2)
+HISTORY</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+ "But these were merciful men, whose righteousness
+ hath not been forgotten. . . . Their bodies are buried
+ in peace; but their name liveth for evermore."
+                     <i>Ecclesiasticus</i>  , xliv. 10, 14.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>The collection of pictures In Wadham Hall is probably the best
+of any college in Oxford&mdash;always, of course, excepting Christ
+Church. It has no single picture to be compared with the "Thomas
+Warton" at Trinity, or the "Dr. Johnson" at Pembroke (both
+excellent works of Reynolds), nor does it give so many fine
+examples of the work of recent artists as do Trinity or Balliol;
+but it makes up for these deficiencies by the number and the
+variety of its pictures.</p>
+<p>Two only of the men they represent can be said to attain to the
+first rank among England's worthies&mdash;Robert Blake, second as
+an admiral only to Nelson and Oxford's greatest fighting man until
+the present war, and Christopher Wren, "that prodigious young
+scholar" (as John Evelyn calls him), who, as has been well said,
+would have been second only to Newton among English mathematicians
+had he not chosen rather to be indisputably the first of British
+architects. It is interesting to note that Wadham shares with All
+Souls' two of the greatest names in the Scientific Revival of the
+seventeenth century: both Wren and Thomas Sydenham, the physician,
+migrated from Wadham to fellowships at All Souls'.</p>
+<p>Their connection with Wadham is part of what is probably the most
+interesting single episode in the college history. When the
+Parliament triumphed, and the King's partisans were turned out of
+Oxford, the Lodgings at Wadham were given to the most distinguished
+of her Wardens, John Wilkins, who, no doubt, owed his promotion to
+the fact that he was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. In his
+own day everyone knew him; he was a moderate man, who interceded
+for Royalist scholars under the Commonwealth, and tempered the
+penal laws to Non-Conformists, when later he was Bishop of Chester.
+He was even better known to the "philosophers" as the inventor of a
+universal language and as curious for every advance in Natural
+Science. But, in our day, he is only remembered for his connection
+with the Royal Society; that most illustrious body grew out of the
+meetings held weekly at his Lodgings and the similar meetings held
+in London; when later these two movements were united, Wilkins was
+secretary of the committee which drew up the rules for their future
+organization, and thus prepared the way for the Royal Charter,
+given to the Society in 1662. When the Royal Society celebrated its
+250th anniversary in 1912, many of its members made a pilgrimage to
+"its cradle" (or what was, at any rate, " <i>one</i> of its
+cradles").</p>
+<p>Wadham also produced, among other early members of the Royal
+Society, its historian, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, who
+somehow, as "Pindaric Sprat" (he was the friend and also the editor
+of <i>Abraham Cowley</i> ), found his way into Johnson's <i>Lives
+of the Poets</i> ; he is, however, more likely to be remembered
+because his subserviency, when he was Dean of Westminster to James
+II, has earned him an unenviable place in Macaulay's gallery of
+Revolution worthies and unworthies. Sprat, it should be added, was
+an exception to the prevailing Whig tradition of</p>
+<p>Wadham, which found a worthy exponent in Arthur Onslow, the
+greatest Speaker of the House of Commons, who ruled over that
+august body for a record period, thirty-four years (1727-1761), and
+formed its rules and traditions in the period when it was first
+asserting its claim to govern.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p23"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p23.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"370" height="488" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall Interior"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall
+Interior</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>Two centuries later than the Royal Society days at Wadham,
+another group of philosophers was trained there, who thought that
+the views of their master, Auguste Comte, were going to make as
+great a revolution in human thought as the views of a Bacon or a
+Newton. All the leading English Positivists were at
+Wadham&mdash;Congreve, Beesley, Bridges, Frederic Harrison, of whom
+the last alone survives, to fight with undiminished vigour for the
+causes which he championed in Mid-Victorian days. Positivism had
+less influence than its adherents expected, but it powerfully
+affected for a time the political and the religious thought of
+England.</p>
+<p>Forty years later another famous group of young men were at
+Wadham together. As they are all alive, it is impossible, and would
+be unbecoming, to estimate what their influence on English life and
+thought will be; but it was a curious coincidence that sent to
+Wadham together, in the 'nineties, Lord Birkenhead, who reached the
+Woolsack at the earliest age on record; Sir John Simon, who, if he
+had wished, could have lowered that record still further, and C. B.
+Fry, once a household name as the greatest of British athletes.</p>
+<p>Three groups of Wadham men have been spoken of; one other name
+must be mentioned of one who stood alone at college, and for a long
+time in the world outside, in his attitude to the social problems
+of our day. Whatever may be the future of the Settlement movement,
+its leader, Samuel Barnett, "Barnett of Whitechapel," is not to be
+forgotten, for his name is associated as a pioneer and an inspiring
+force with every movement of educational and social advance in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century. M. Clemenceau, no friendly
+judge of the ministers of any religious body, pronounced him one of
+the three greatest men he had met in England. Certainly he was
+great, if greatness means to anticipate the problems of the future
+before the rest of the world sees their urgency, and to make real
+contributions to their solution.</p>
+<p>It has been a feature of the history of Oxford that every
+college has, from time to time, come to the front as the special
+home and source of some movement. There has never been the
+overshadowing concentration of men and of wealth, which has given a
+more one-sided direction to the history of Cambridge. Hence the
+strength of the college system; every college has its traditions to
+live up to, its great names to cherish, and Wadham is, certainly,
+by no means last or least in these respects.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="HertfordC" id="HertfordC">HERTFORD COLLEGE</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Outspake the (Warden) roundly:
+ 'The bridge must straight go down;
+ For if they once should get the bridge ...'"
+                        MACAULAY, <i>Horatius,</i> adapted.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<p>Academic bridges, over the Cam or elsewhere, are a great feature
+at Cambridge. At Oxford they were unknown till this century, when
+University first of all threw its modest little arch over Logic
+Lane; later, in 1913. the "Bridge of Sighs," which forms the
+subject of <a href="#p24">Plate XXIV</a>, was completed. There was
+a hard struggle before leave could be obtained from the City
+Council for thus bridging a public thoroughfare; University only
+maintained their claim to a bridge by a long lawsuit, in which the
+college rights were firmly established by the production of
+charters, which went back to the reign of King John. The great
+opposition to the Hertford Bridge was said to be due to regard for
+the feelings of the old Warden of New College, who considered that
+it would injure the view of his college bell-tower. Whether this
+story be true or not, Hertford obtained its permission at last, and
+Sir Thomas Jackson added a new attraction to Oxford's buildings.
+His genius has been especially shown in triumphing over the
+difficulties of the Hertford site, for it was no easy thing to
+unite into a harmonious whole, buildings so various; his new
+chapel&mdash;opened in 1908&mdash;is worthy to rank with the best
+classic architecture in Oxford.</p>
+<p>The variety of the Hertford buildings only reflects the
+chequered history of the foundations that have occupied them. As
+early as the thirteenth century Hart Hall stood on this site. In
+the eighteenth century this old hall was turned into a college by
+an Oxford reformer, Dr. Newton. But unfortunately Newton's
+endowments were not equal to his ambition, and the first Hertford
+<i>College</i> fell into such decay that finally its buildings were
+transferred to an entirely different foundation, Magdalen Hall.
+Almost immediately afterwards, old Magdalen Hall, which stood close
+to Magdalen College, was burned down, and the society sold their
+site, thus made empty, to their wealthy namesake, and migrated, in
+1822, to what had formerly been Hertford College. Finally, in 1874,
+Magdalen Hall was re-endowed by the head of the great financial
+house of Baring as "Hertford College" once more.</p>
+<p>This college then unites the traditions of two old halls, and of
+its own predecessor, and from all of them it derives some famous
+names. Hart Hall was the home of John Selden, one of the greatest
+of English scholars; Hertford College had an undistinguished
+English prime minister in Henry Pelham, and a most distinguished
+leader of opposition in Charles James Foxe; while Magdalen Hall was
+even more rich in traditions, as being the home of the translator
+of the Bible, William Tyndale, as the centre of Puritan strength in
+the Laudian days, when from its ranks were filled the vacancies all
+over Oxford caused by the expulsions of Royalists, and finally as
+having trained Lord Clarendon, famous as Charles II's minister,
+still more famous as the historian, whose monumental work was one
+of the first endowments of the Oxford Press.</p>
+<p>All these traditions are now concentrated in the one college,
+and, as has been said, the buildings have been greatly extended to
+meet the needs of the new foundation. When Hertford College is
+completed according to the plans already drawn by Sir Thomas
+Jackson, it will reach from All Souls' to Holywell. This last
+northern part of its front has been delayed by the European
+War.</p>
+<p>The new&mdash;or, rather, the revived&mdash;college has, as yet,
+hardly had time to make Oxford history, but the influence of its
+second Principal. Dr. Boyd, whose long reign, happily not yet over,
+began in 1877, has had the result of finding for Oxford new
+benefactors in one of the wealthiest of the London City Companies;
+the Drapers' magnificent gifts of the new Science Library and of
+the Electrical Laboratory are good instances to show that the days
+of the "pious founder" are not yet over.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="p24"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p24.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"364" height="489" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The Bridge"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The
+Bridge</b></h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="StEdmundH" id="StEdmundH">ST. EDMUND HALL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Or wander down an ancient street
+ Where mingling ages quaintly meet,
+ Tower and battlement, dome and gable
+ Mellowed by time to a picture sweet."
+                               A. G. BUTLER.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p25"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p25.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"368" height="486" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and St. Edmund Hall"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and
+St. Edmund Hall</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The group of buildings, shown in <a href="#p25">Plate XXV</a>,
+is not only picturesque&mdash;it also illustrates Oxford history
+from more than one point of view.</p>
+<p>The apse of the Chapel of Queen's on the left belongs to a
+building already spoken of, which is the most perfect example of a
+small basilican church in Oxford. The church tower in the centre,
+though itself dating from the fourteenth century, is the most
+modern part of one of the oldest churches in Oxford, St. Peter in
+the East. The crypt and the chancel of this church go back to the
+time of the Conquest, and are probably the work of Robert d'Oili,
+to whom William the Conqueror gave the city of Oxford; he was first
+an oppressor and then a benefactor; in the former character, he
+built the castle keep, still standing near the station; in the
+latter, he was the builder, besides St. Peter, of the churches of
+St. Michael and of the Holy Cross; parts of his work survive in all
+three.</p>
+<p>The churchyard, at all events, of St. Peter in the East,
+deserves a visit, lying as it does between the beautiful garden of
+New College and the picturesque buildings of St. Edmund Hall.</p>
+<p>Before this last foundation is spoken of, a word must be said as
+to the road round which these three buildings are
+grouped&mdash;Queen's Lane. It survives, almost unaltered, from
+Pre-Reformation Oxford, and, winding as it does its narrow way
+between high walls, it is an interesting specimen of the "lanes"
+which threaded mediaeval Oxford, a city in which the High Street
+and, to a smaller extent, Cornmarket Street were the only real
+thoroughfares; the rest of the city was a network of narrow
+ways.</p>
+<p>But from the historic point of view, the most interesting part
+of the picture is its right side, where stand the buildings of St.
+Edmund Hall. This is the only survival of the system of residence
+in the earliest University, of the Oxford which knew not the
+college system.</p>
+<p>Before the days of "pious founders," the students had to provide
+their own places of residence, and very early the custom grew up of
+their living together in "halls," sometimes managed by a
+non-academic owner, but often under the superintendence of some
+resident Master of Arts, who was responsible, not for the teaching,
+but, at any rate in part, for the discipline of the inmates of his
+hall. These halls had at first no endowments and no permanent
+existence; they depended for their continuity on the person of
+their head. Gradually they became more organized; but when once the
+college system had been introduced, it tended, by its superior
+wealth and efficiency, to render the "halls" less and less
+important. They lost even the one element of self-government which
+they had once had, the right of their members to elect their own
+Principal; this right was usurped by the Chancellor. Hence, though
+five of the halls were surviving at the time of the University
+Commission (of 1850), all of them but St. Edmund Hall have now
+disappeared.</p>
+<p>In theory, "hall" and "college" have much in common; one
+Cambridge college indeed has retained the name of "hall," and two
+of the women's colleges in Oxford have preferred to keep the old
+style. In practice, their difference lies in the two facts that
+colleges are wealthier, with more endowments, and that they are
+self-governing, with Fellows who co-opt to vacancies in their own
+body and elect their head. St. Edmund Hall has its head appointed
+by the fellows of Queen's, with which institution it has long been
+connected.</p>
+<p>The origin of this hall is an unsolved problem: it derives its
+name according to one theory from Edmund Rich, the last Archbishop
+of Canterbury to be canonized, and probably the first recorded
+Doctor of Divinity at Oxford. But this theory is very doubtful, and
+Hearne, most famous of Oxford antiquarians, and probably the best
+known member of St. Edmund Hall, did not believe it. In any case,
+most of the buildings of the hall date long after St. Edmund, and
+belong to the middle of the seventeenth century. Hearne himself is
+sufficient to give interest to any foundation. He was a great
+scholar and a careful editor of the early English Chroniclers in
+days when learning was decaying in Oxford; even now his work as an
+editor is not altogether superseded. But it is not to this that he
+owes his fame; it is rather to the fact that he has high rank among
+the diarists of England, and the first place among those of Oxford.
+For thirty years (1705-1735) in which latter year he died, he
+poured into his diary everything that interested
+him&mdash;scholarly notes, political rumours, personal scandal,
+remarks on manners and customs. The 150 volumes came into the
+possession of his fellow Jacobite, Richard Rawlinson, the greatest
+of the benefactors of the Bodleian, and only now are they being
+fully edited; ten volumes have been issued by the Oxford Historical
+Society, and still there are a few more years of his life to cover.
+As a specimen of Hearne's style may be quoted his remarks, when the
+sermon on Christmas Day, 1732, was postponed till 11 a.m.</p>
+<p>"The true reason is that people might lie in bed the longer. . .
+. The same reason hath made them, in almost all places in the
+University, alter the times of prayer, and the hour of dinner
+(which used to be 11 o'clock) in almost every place (Christ Church
+must be excepted); which ancient discipline and learning and piety
+strangely decay." Hearne was critical rather of past history than
+of present-day rumour; he records complacently (in 1706) that at
+Whitchurch, when the dissenters had prepared a great quantity of
+bricks "to erect a capacious conventicle, a destroying angel came
+by night and spoyled them all, and confounded their Babel." Hearne
+would by no means have approved of the Methodist principles of six
+members of his hall in the next generation, who were expelled for
+their religious views (1768). A furious controversy, with many
+pamphlets, raged over them, and the Public Orator of the University
+wrote a bulky indictment of them, which was answered by another
+pamphlet with the picturesque title of "Goliath Slain."
+Pamphleteers were more free in their language in those days than
+they are now.</p>
+<p>The hall has always been a strong religious centre, and plays a
+very useful part in the University&mdash;by giving to poor men,
+seeking Holy Orders, a real Oxford education, based on the true
+Oxford principle of community of life.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h3><a name="IffleyM" id="IffleyM">IFFLEY MILL</a></h3>
+<br>
+<pre class="centrestyle">
+"Thames, the best loved of all old Ocean's sons,
+ Of his old sire, to his embraces runs . . .
+ Though deep, yet clear, through gentle yet not dull,
+ Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
+                                         SIR J. DENHAM.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name="p26"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p26.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"365" height="482" border="3" alt=
+"Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill</b></h4>
+<br>
+<p>The subject of <a href="#p26">Plate XXVI</a> is no longer in
+existence; it was burned to the ground some years ago, and has
+never been rebuilt&mdash;for steam has rendered unprofitable the
+old-fashioned water mills such as it was. Yet the very fact that
+Iffley Mill is no more perhaps renders it the more appropriate
+subject for a series of Oxford pictures. It claims a place among
+them, not for its beauty, picturesque though it was, but as a
+symbol of the open-air pursuits of Oxford, which play so large a
+part in the lives of her sons. And as those pursuits are so
+diverse, and cannot all be directly pictured, it is fitting that
+they should be represented by a picture which is a symbol of them
+all, by a picture of something no longer existing, not introduced
+for itself, but suggesting whole fields of varied activity,
+different and yet all akin.</p>
+<p>This may be fanciful, but the part played by open-air sports in
+the life of Oxford is a great reality. Yet, in their present
+organized form, they are a feature of quite, modern times. Fifty
+years ago, football as a college sport in Oxford was only
+beginning; the men are still living, and not octogenarians, who
+introduced their "school games"&mdash;"Rugby," "Eton Wall game,"
+etc.&mdash;at Oxford. Golf was left to Scotchmen, hockey to small
+boys, La Crosse had not yet come from beyond the Atlantic. Cricket
+and rowing were the only organized games, and even in these the
+inter-University contests are comparative novelties; the first boat
+race against Cambridge was rowed in 1829, and it has only been an
+annual fixture since 1856.</p>
+<p>Several results followed from this. In the first place, the very
+sense of the word "sportsman" was different. Now it means a man who
+can play well some, one at least, of the games that all men play;
+then, it had its old meaning of a man who could shoot, or ride, or
+fish, or do all these.</p>
+<p>Again, as cricket is always a game for the few, and as the
+rowing authorities, by the time the summer term begins, had
+selected their chosen followers and left the rest of the world
+free, there was far more walking, and consequently more knowledge
+of the country round the city, than is the rule now. The long
+rambles which play so prominent a part in Oxford biographies, such
+as Stanley's <i>Life of Arnold</i> , were still the fashion, while
+of those who could afford to ride, certainly many more availed
+themselves of the privilege than do now.</p>
+<p>So far as games themselves were concerned, their cost was far
+less. College matches away from Oxford were almost unknown; college
+grounds, which were still quite a new thing in the middle of last
+century, were nearly all concentrated on Cowley Marsh, and the
+somewhat heavy contribution from all undergraduates, now generally
+collected by the college authorities in "battels" and become
+semi-official, was not dreamed of. Those who played paid, and the
+rest of the college got off easily. And games were much more games
+than they are now, and less of institutions; the "professional
+amateur," who comes up with a public school reputation to get his
+"blue," was almost unknown, and certainly, so far as rowing was
+concerned, any powerful man with broad shoulders and a sound heart
+was a likely candidate for the University Boat. The days were not
+dreamed of when the fortunes of Oxford and Cambridge on the river
+depended largely on the choice of a University by members of the
+Eton Eight.</p>
+<p>But there is of course another side to the development of Oxford
+athletics. Perhaps the most important point is that play is the
+greatest social leveller. It is easy to attend the same lectures as
+a man, and even to sit at the same table with him in hall, and not
+to know him well, because his clothes and his accent are not quite
+correct. But in these days when so many games are played, and when
+competition is so keen, any man who can do anything gets his
+chance; and many are the instances every year of men who would
+never have made friends in their colleges outside a small circle,
+had not their quickness as half-backs, or their ability as slow
+bowlers, brought their contemporaries to recognize their merits.
+You cannot play with a man without knowing him, and young Oxford is
+democratic at heart, and when once it knows a man, it does not
+trouble about the non-essentials of wealth and fashion.</p>
+<p>And again, though it may seem a paradox to say it, the amount of
+play in Oxford has increased the amount of work. Organized games
+mean physical fitness, and physical fitness means ability to get
+intellectual work done. Perhaps it may be argued that the
+absorption in athletics deadens all intellectual life, and that
+many Oxford men read only and discuss only the sporting news in the
+papers; this no doubt has a strange fascination, even for men who
+do not play; one of the most distinguished of Oxford statesmen of
+the last generation, himself so blind that he could not hit a ball,
+confessed to me that he always, in the summer, read the cricket
+news in <i>The Times</i> before he read anything else. But he and
+many other Oxford men read something else, too. And it may be
+maintained without question that the hard exercise, which is the
+fashion in Oxford, tends to keep men's bodies healthy and to raise
+the moral tone of the place. Oxford and Cambridge may not be what
+they should be in morals, but they compare very favourably in this
+respect with other towns.</p>
+<p>All this seems a far cry from Iffley Mill; but Iffley means to
+an Oxford man, not so much the picturesque village, nor even its
+gem of a Norman Church that towers above the lock, but the place
+where Eights and Torpids start for the races. And the boating,
+which is so associated with the name of Iffley, is still&mdash;and
+long may it be so&mdash;the queen of Oxford sports. To succeed as
+an oar, a man has to learn to sacrifice the present to the future,
+to scorn delights and live laborious days, to work together with
+others, and to sink his individuality in the common cause. These
+are great qualities, and therefore in any book on Oxford, the
+picture, which recalls them and is their symbol, has a right to a
+place.</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h5>Printed in Great Britain.<br>
+ Letterpress by Turnbull &amp; Spears, Edinburgh.<br>
+ Plates engraved and printed by Henry Stone &amp; Son, Ltd.,
+Banbury.</h5>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<a name="pend"></a>
+<p align="center"><img src="images/p_end.jpg" align="middle" width=
+"751" height="378" border="3" alt=
+"End Papers : Oxford from the East"></p>
+<h4 align="center"><b>End Papers : Oxford from the East</b></h4>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
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+</body>
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@@ -0,0 +1,3440 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Charm of Oxford
+
+Author: J. Wells
+
+Release Date: August 22, 2004 [EBook #13245]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHARM OF OXFORD ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Philip H Hitchcock
+
+
+
+
+
+About the online edition.
+
+Italics are represented as /italics/.
+
+   THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+           by
+
+      J. WELLS, M.A.
+Warden of Wadham College, Oxford
+
+     Illustrated by
+     W. G. BLACKALL
+
+
+Second Edition (Revised)
+
+SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON
+KENT & CO., LTD., 4 STATIONERS'
+HALL COURT : : LONDON, E.C.4
+
+Copyright
+First published 1920
+Second edition 1921
+
+
+    "'Home of lost causes'--this is Oxford's blame;
+      'Mother of movements'--this, too, boasteth she;
+     In the same walls, the same yet not the same,
+      She welcomes those who lead the age-to-be."
+
+
+    "Much have ye suffered from time's gnawing tooth,
+     Yet, O ye spires of Oxford domes and towers,
+     Gardens and groves, your presence overpowers
+     The soberness of reason."
+                                 WORDSWORTH.
+
+ [Plate 1. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Garden]
+
+
+THE CHARM OF OXFORD
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+There are many books on Oxford; the justification for this new one is
+Mr. Blackall's drawings. They will serve by their grace and charm
+pleasantly to recall to those who know Oxford the scenes they love;
+they will incite those who do not know Oxford to remedy that defect
+in their lives.
+
+My own letterpress is only written to accompany the drawings.  It is
+intended to remind Oxford men of the things they know or ought to
+know; it is intended still more to help those who have not visited
+Oxford to understand the drawings and to appreciate some of the
+historical associations of the scenes represented.
+
+I have written quite freely, as this seemed the best way to create
+the "impression" wished. I have to acknowledge some obligations to
+Messrs. Seccombe & Scott's /Praise of Oxford/, a book the pages of
+which an Oxford man can always turn over with pleasure, and to Mr. J.
+B. Firth's /Minstrelsy of Isis/; it is not his fault that the poetic
+merit of so much of his collection is poor. Oxford has not on the
+whole been fortunate in her poets. My own quotations are more often
+chosen for their local colour than for their poetic merit.
+
+I have unavoidably had to borrow a good deal from my own /Oxford and
+its Colleges/, but the aim of the two books is very different.
+
+  WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD,
+      April 1920.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ INTRODUCTION
+ RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+ THE BROAD STREET
+ BALLIOL COLLEGE
+ MERTON COLLEGE
+ MERTON LIBRARY
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+ QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+ NEW COLLEGE: (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+ NEW COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ LINCOLN COLLEGE
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+ MAGDALEN COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+ CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+ CHRIST CHURCH: (3) "TOM" TOWER
+ ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (1) THE BUILDINGS
+ WADHAM COLLEGE: (2) HISTORY
+ HERTFORD COLLEGE
+ ST. EDMUND HALL
+ IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+     I CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE GARDEN
+    II ST. MARY'S SPIRE
+   III VIEW IN RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+    IV SHELDONIAN THEATRE, ETC., BROAD STREET
+     V BALLIOL COLLEGE, BROAD STREET FRONT
+    VI MERTON COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   VII MERTON COLLEGE, THE LIBRARY INTERIOR
+  VIII ORIEL COLLEGE AND ST. MARY'S CHURCH
+    IX HIGH STREET
+     X NEW COLLEGE, THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY
+    XI NEW COLLEGE, THE TOWER
+   XII LINCOLN COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL INTERIOR
+  XIII MAGDALEN TOWER
+   XIV MAGDALEN COLLEGE, THE OPEN AIR PULPIT
+    XV BRASENOSE COLLEGE, QUADRANGLE AND THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY
+   XVI CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, THE FIRST QUADRANGLE
+  XVII CHRIST CHURCH, THE CATHEDRAL FROM THE MEADOW
+ XVIII CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL STAIRCASE
+   XIX CHRIST CHURCH, THE HALL INTERIOR
+    XX CHRIST CHURCH, "TOM" TOWER
+   XXI ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE GARDEN FRONT
+  XXII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE CHAPEL FROM THE GARDEN
+ XXIII WADHAM COLLEGE, THE HALL INTERIOR
+  XXIV HERTFORD COLLEGE, THE BRIDGE
+   XXV ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH AND ST. EDMUND HALL
+  XXVI IFFLEY, THE OLD MILL
+       OXFORD FROM THE EAST [End papers]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+In what does the charm of Oxford consist? Why does she stand out
+among the cities of the world as one of those most deserving a visit?
+It can hardly be said to be for the beauty of her natural
+surroundings. In spite of the charm of her
+
+    "Rivers twain of gentle foot that pass
+     Through the rich meadow-land of long green grass,"
+
+in spite of her trees and gardens, which attract a visitor,
+especially one from the more barren north, Oxford must yield the palm
+of natural beauty to many English towns, not to mention those more
+remote.
+
+But she has every other claim, and first, perhaps, may be mentioned
+that of historic interest.
+
+An Englishman who knows anything of history is not likely to forget
+of how many striking events in the development of his country Oxford
+has been the scene. The element of romance is furnished early in her
+story by the daring escape of the Empress-Queen, Matilda, from Oxford
+Castle. The Provisions of Oxford (1258) were the work of one of the
+most famous Parliaments of the thirteenth century, the century which
+saw the building of the English constitution, and the students of the
+University fought for the cause which those Provisions represented.
+The burning of the martyr bishops in the sixteenth century is one of
+the greatest tragedies in the story of our Church. The seventeenth
+century saw Oxford the capital of Royalist England in the Civil War,
+and though there was no actual fighting there, Charles' night march
+in 1644 from Oxford to the West, between the two enclosing armies of
+Essex and Waller, is one of the most famous military movements ever
+carried out in our comparatively peaceful island. The Parliamentary
+history, too, of Oxford in the seventeenth century is full of
+interest, for it was there that in 1625 Charles' first Parliament met
+in the Divinity School. And fifty years later, his son, Charles II,
+triumphed over the Whig Parliament at Oxford, which was trying by
+factious violence to force the Exclusion Bill on a reluctant king and
+nation. Few towns beside London have been the scene of so many great
+historical events; yet any one who looks below the surface will
+attach less importance to these than to the great changes in thought
+which have found in Oxford their inspiration, and which make it a
+city of pilgrimage for those interested in the development of
+England's real life. Matthew Arnold's famous description, hackneyed
+though it is by quotation, gives one aspect of Oxford, an aspect
+which will appeal to many beside the scholar poet:
+
+"Beautiful city! so venerable, so lovely, so unravaged by the fierce
+intellectual life of our century, so serene!
+
+    'There are our young barbarians, all at play.'
+
+And yet, steeped in sentiment as she lies, spreading her gardens to
+the moonlight, and whispering' from her towers the last enchantments
+of the Middle Ages, who will deny that Oxford, by her ineffable
+charm, keeps ever calling us nearer to the true goal of all of us, to
+the ideal, to perfection--to beauty, in a word, which is only truth
+seen from another side?"
+
+But this is not the real intellectual charm of Oxford, which has been
+ever the centre of strenuous life, rather than of dilettante
+dreamings. From the very beginning, she has been a city of
+"Movements." Some visitors, then, will come to Oxford as the home and
+the burial-place of Roger Bacon, representing as he does the
+Franciscan Order, with its Christ-like sympathy for the poor and its
+early attempts to develop the knowledge of Natural Science; Oxford
+was in the thirteenth century the great centre of the Friars'
+movement in England. Others will remember that in the next century it
+produced, in John Wycliffe, the great opponent of the Friars, the man
+who, as the first of the Reformers, is to many the most interesting
+figure in mediaeval English religious history. In the sixteenth
+century, Oxford plays no great part in the actual revolution in the
+English Church; yet it will be a place attractive to many who cherish
+the memory of the "Oxford Reformers," the members of Erasmus' circle
+--John Colet, Thomas More, William Grocyn, and other scholars--who
+hoped by sound learning to amend the Church without violent change.
+Some, on the other hand, will see in the sixteenth-century Oxford,
+the school which trained men for the Counter-Reformation, such as the
+heroic Jesuit, Campion, or Cardinal Alien, the founder of the English
+College at Douai. The Anglican "Via Media" found its special
+representatives in Oxford in Jewel and Hooker, and in Laud, the
+practical genius who carried out its principles in the Church
+administration of his day. It was fitting that the movement for the
+revival of Church teaching in England in the nineteenth century
+should be an Oxford movement, and Newman's pulpit at St. Mary's and
+the chapel of Oriel College are sacred in the eyes of Anglicans all
+over the world. In the interval between Laud and Newman, Church
+principles had found a different development in another Oxford man;
+John Wesley's character and spiritual life were built up in Oxford,
+till he went forth to do the work of an Evangelist during more than
+half of the eighteenth century. Wycliffe, More, Hooker, Laud, Wesley,
+Newman, these are not the names of men who have affected the
+religious history of the world as did Luther, Calvin or Ignatius
+Loyola; but they have affected profoundly the religious life of the
+English-speaking race, and Oxford must ever be a sacred place for
+their sakes.
+
+And Oxford has been the starting-point of other than religious
+movements. No place in England has such a claim on the Englishmen of
+the New World as has Oxford. It was there that Richard Hakluyt taught
+geography, and collected in part his wonderful store of the tales of
+enterprise beyond the sea. Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his half-brother,
+Sir Walter Raleigh, both Oxford men, were the founders of English
+colonization. By their failures they showed the way to success later,
+and Calvert in Maryland, Penn in Pennsylvania, John Locke in the
+Carolinas, and Oglethorpe in Georgia are all Oxford men who rank as
+founders of States in the great Union of the West. And in our own
+day, Cecil Rhodes has once more proved that the academic dreamer can
+go out and advance the development of a great continent. By his
+magnificent foundation of scholarships at Oxford, he showed that he
+considered his old university a formative influence of the greatest
+importance in world history. Oxford with reason puts up one tablet to
+mark his lodgings in the city, and another to commemorate him in her
+stately Examination Schools.
+
+ [Plate II, St. Mary's Spire]
+
+But there are many to whom the past, whether in the realm of action
+or in the realm of ideas, does not appeal, whether it be from lack of
+knowledge or from lack of sympathy. To some of these Oxford makes a
+different appeal as perhaps the best place in England for studying
+the development of English architecture. The early Norman work of the
+Castle and St. Michael's, the Transition work of the cathedral, the
+very early lancet windows of St. Giles' Church (consecrated by the
+great St. Hugh of Lincoln himself), the Decorated Style as seen in
+St. Mary's spire and in Merton chapel, the glories of the specially
+English style, the Perpendicular, in Wykeham's work at New College
+and in Magdalen Tower, the Tudor magnificence of Wolsey's work at
+Christ Church, the last flower of Gothic at Wadham and at St. John's,
+the triumph of Wren's genius, alike in the classical style at the
+Sheldonian and in "Gothic" as in Tom Tower, the Classical work of
+Hawkesmore at Queen's and of Gibbs in the Radcliffe, the wonderful
+beauty of Mr. Bodley's modern Gothic in St. Swithun's Quad at
+Magdalen, and the skilful adaptation of old English tradition to
+modern needs by Sir Thomas Jackson at Trinity and at Hertford--what
+other city can show such a series of architectural beauties? And it
+must not be forgotten that Oxford disputes with York the honour of
+having the most representative sequence of painted glass windows in
+England. Oxford, indeed, is a paradise for the student of Art.
+Nowhere, except at Cambridge, can the series of architectural works
+be paralleled, and at both universities the charm of their ancient
+buildings is enhanced by their beautiful setting in college gardens.
+
+It is not an accident that in the old universities more than anywhere
+else, so much of beauty has survived, nor is it to be put down as a
+happy piece of academic conservatism. It is rather the natural result
+of their constitution and endowment. What has been so fatal to the
+beauty of old England elsewhere has been material prosperity. The
+buildings inherited from the past had to go, at least so it was
+thought, because they were not suited to modern methods, or because
+the site they occupied was worth so much more for other purposes. But
+the colleges at Oxford and Cambridge could not carry on their work on
+different sites; "residence" was an essential of academic
+arrangements; and there was no temptation to the fellows of a college
+to make money by parting with their old buildings, for their incomes
+were determined by Statute, and any great increase of wealth would
+not advantage individual fellows. Hence, while great nobles and great
+merchants sold their splendid houses and grounds, and grew rich on
+the unearned increment, and while non-residential universities moved
+bodily from their old positions to new and more fashionable quarters,
+Oxford and Cambridge colleges went on working and living in the same
+places. Much the same reasons have preserved, in many old towns,
+picturesque alms-houses, to show the modern world how beautiful
+buildings once could be, while all around them reigns opulent
+ugliness. Certain it is that only in one instance, in recent times,
+has an Oxford college contemplated selling its old site and buildings
+and migrating to North Oxford, and then the sacrilegious attempt was
+outvoted. Hence, as has been said, the two old English Universities
+possess in an unique degree the
+
+    "Strange enchantments of the past
+     And memories of the days of old."
+
+The charms of Oxford for the historical student and for the lover of
+Art have been spoken of. But a large part of the world comes under
+neither head; to it the charm of Oxford consists in the young lives
+that are continually passing through it. Oxford and Cambridge present
+ever attractive contrasts between their young students and their old
+buildings, between the first enthusiasm of ever new generations, and
+customs and rules which date back to mediaeval times.
+
+But apart from the charm of contrast, Oxford has everything to make
+life attractive for young men. It is true that the old buildings
+combine with a dignity a millionaire could not surpass a standard of
+material comfort which in some respects is below that of an up-to-
+date workhouse. An amusing instance has occurred of this during the
+war. The students of one of the women's colleges, expelled from their
+own modern buildings, which had been turned into a hospital, became
+tenants of half of one of the oldest colleges. It was very romantic
+thus to gain admission to the real Oxford, but the students soon
+found that it was very uncomfortable to have their baths in an out-
+of-the-way corner of the college. And baths themselves are but a
+modern institution at Oxford; at one or two colleges still the old
+"tub in one's room" is the only system of washing. Perhaps this
+instance may be thought frivolous, but it is typical of Oxford, which
+has been described, with some exaggeration in both words, as a home
+of "barbaric luxury."
+
+But after all, comfort in the material sense is the least important
+element in completeness of life. Oxford has everything else, except,
+it is true, a bracing climate. She has society of every kind, in
+which a man ranks on his merits, not on his possessions; he is valued
+for what he is, not for what he has; she gives freedom to her sons to
+live their own life, with just sufficient restraint to add piquancy
+to freedom, and to restrain those excesses which are fatal to it; she
+has intellectual interests and traditions, which often really affect
+men who seem indifferent to them; life in her, as a rule, is not
+troubled by financial cares--for her young men, most of them, either
+through old endowments or from family circumstances, have for the
+moment enough of this world's goods. In view of all this, and much
+more, is it not natural that Oxford has a charm for her sons? And
+this is enhanced with many by all the force of hereditary tradition;
+the young man is at his college because his father was there before
+him; the pleasure of each generation is increased by the reflection
+of the other's pleasure. What traditional feeling in Oxford means
+may, perhaps, be illustrated by the story of an old English worthy,
+though one only of the second rank. Jonathan Trelawney, one of the
+Seven Bishops who defied James II, was a stout Whig, but when it was
+proposed to punish Oxford for her devotion to the Pretender, the
+Government found they could not reckon on his vote, though he was
+usually a safe party man. "I must be excused from giving my vote for
+altering the methods of election into Christ Church, where I had my
+bread for twenty years. I would rather see my son a link boy than a
+student of Christ Church in such a manner as tears up by the roots
+that constitution."
+
+But the days of hereditary tradition are over, and Trelawney belongs
+to an age long past; Oxford now is exposed to an influence compared
+to which the arbitrary proceedings of a king are feeble. A democratic
+Parliament with a growing Labour party has far more power to change
+Oxford than the Stuarts ever had, and even at this moment (1919) a
+third Royal Commission is beginning to sit. Will it modify, will it--
+transform Oxford?
+
+The first answer seems to be that the very stones of Oxford are
+charged with her traditions. During the War the colleges have been
+full of officer-cadets; they were men of all ranks of life and of
+every kind of education; they came from all parts of the world; they
+were of all ages, from eighteen to forty, at least. Their training
+was a strenuous one by strict rule, a complete contrast to the free
+and easy life of academic Oxford. Yet in their few months of
+residence, most of them became imbued with the college spirit; they
+considered themselves members of the place they lived in; they tried
+to do most of the things undergraduates do. If Oxford thus, to some
+extent, moulded to her pattern men who, welcome as they were, were
+only accidental, surely the college spirit may be trusted to
+assimilate whatever material the changed conditions of social or of
+political life furnish to it. The hope of many at Oxford is that
+there will be a great development and a great change. On one side it
+will be good if Oxford becomes to a much greater extent not only an
+all-British, but also a world university; on another side it is to be
+hoped that far more than ever before men of all classes in England
+will come to Oxford. It would surprise many of the University's
+critics to find how much had already been done in these directions.
+It is certainly not true now that, as one of Oxford's critics wrote,
+
+    "Too long, too long men saw thee sit apart
+     From all the living pulses of the hour."
+
+On the contrary, the Oxford of the last generation has already become
+markedly more cosmopolitan, and she has been drawing to her an ever-
+increasing number of able men of every class.
+
+But these developments, thus begun, will certainly be carried much
+further in the near future. Oxford will be altered. Some of her
+customs will be changed. This may well issue in great and lasting
+good, though there will be loss as well as gain. But an Oxford man
+may be pardoned if he believes and hopes that his university will
+remain the university he has loved. There is a saying current in
+Oxford about Oxford men, which may not be out of place here--"If you
+meet a stranger, and if after a time you say to him, 'I think you
+were at Oxford,' he accepts it, as a matter of course, and is
+pleased. If you do the same to a Cambridge man, he indignantly
+replies, 'How do you know that?'" No doubt the saying is turned the
+other way round at Cambridge, and no doubt it is equally true and
+equally false of both universities, i.e. it is positively true and
+negatively false, like so many other statements. But it is positively
+true; the Oxford man is proud of having been at Oxford; the past and
+the present alike, his political and his religious beliefs, his
+traditions and his social surroundings, all endear Oxford to him. May
+it ever be so.
+
+
+
+
+RADCLIFFE SQUARE
+
+
+     "Like to a queen in pride of place, she wears
+      The splendour of a crown in Radcliffe's dome."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate III. View of Radcliffe Square]
+
+The visitor to Oxford often asks--"Where is the University?" The
+proper answer is: "The University is everywhere," for the colleges
+are all parts of it. But if a distinction must be made, and some
+buildings must be shown which are especially "University Buildings,"
+then it is undoubtedly in the Square, of which this picture shows one
+side, that they must be found. Immediately on the right is the
+Bodleian Library, the domed building in the centre is the Radcliffe
+Library, and in the background rises the spire of St. Mary's. Of this
+last building the tower and spire go back nearly to the beginnings of
+Oxford; they date from the time of Edward I; but for a century, at
+least, before they were erected, the students of Oxford had met for
+worship and for business in the earlier church, which stood on the
+site of the present St. Mary's.
+
+The Bodleian Library occupies the old Examination Schools, which were
+built, in the reign of James I, for the reformed University of
+Archbishop Laud; within the memory of men who do not count themselves
+old, the university examinations were still held in this building.
+Finally, the shapely dome between the Bodleian and St. Mary's is the
+work of James Gibbs, the greatest English architect of the eighteenth
+century, to whom Cambridge owes its Senate House, and London the
+noble church of St. Martin's in the Fields. The dome was built for a
+separate library, the foundation of Dr. John Radcliffe, Queen Anne's
+physician, the most munificent of Oxford benefactors; it is still
+managed by his trustees, a body independent of the University, but
+since 1861 they have lent it to the Bodleian Library for a reading-
+room. It is fitting that the oldest public library in the modern
+world, a title the Bodleian can proudly claim, should have the finest
+reading-room, where 400 students can have each his separate desk, and
+where, if so minded and so physically enduring, they can put in
+twelve hours' work in a day. No other great library in Europe allows
+such privileges.
+
+Round these three University buildings are grouped three colleges:
+Hertford, the youngest of Oxford foundations, the re-creation of an
+old hall by a Victorian financial magnate. Sir Thomas Baring; All
+Souls', standing a little beyond, of which the part here shown is the
+corner of the great Law Library, founded by Sir William Codrington in
+the days of good Queen Anne; while on the other side of the Radcliffe
+is Brasenose College (for pictures of which see Plates II and XV). No
+non-academic building fronts on the Square; the one or two houses
+facing on the south-west corner are occupied by college tutors. The
+academic influence has spread even under the earth, for between the
+Bodleian and the Radcliffe there is a great subterranean chamber of
+two stories, excavated 1909-1910, which, when full, will contain
+1,000,000 books.
+
+It is refreshing to turn from the thought of so much dead industry,
+as these multitudes of unread books will represent, to the
+inspiration of the buildings. They are the very epitome of Oxford.
+The classic symmetry of Gibbs' dome looks across at the soaring spire
+of the mediaeval University Church, while the Bodleian is one of the
+best examples of the Jacobean Gothic, which still held its own in
+Oxford when the classical style was triumphing elsewhere. Such
+contrasts are typical of Oxford. The University had a European
+reputation in the days when it was one of the two great centres of
+mediaeval scholasticism. Roger Bacon, the most famous name in
+mediaeval science, no doubt saw the tower of St. Mary's beginning to
+rise. The University welcomed the Classical Revival, it survived the
+storms of the Reformation, it was the great centre of the building up
+of Anglican theology under the Laudian rule, it was one of the
+inspirations of English science in the seventeenth century, though
+Dr. Radcliffe's generous benefactions are a little later, and have
+hardly begun to yield their full fruit till our own day. Such are the
+learned traditions of the Radcliffe Square, while it has also been
+the centre of the young lives which, for seven centuries at least,
+have enjoyed their happiest years in Oxford.
+
+The view from the Radcliffe roof is undoubtedly the best in Oxford.
+It has been thus described by the worst of the many poets who have
+celebrated the University:
+
+    "Spire, tower and steeple, roofs of radiant tile,
+     The costly temple and collegiate pile,
+     In sumptuous mass of mingled form and hue,
+     Await the wonder of thy sateless view."
+
+But Robert Montgomery is more likely to be remembered for Macaulay's
+merciless but well-deserved chastisement than for his praises of
+Oxford. Even their utter bathos cannot degrade a group of buildings
+so wonderful.
+
+
+
+
+THE BROAD STREET
+
+    "Ye mossy piles of old munificence,
+     At once the pride of learning and defence."
+                   J. WARTON, /Triumph of Isis/
+
+The east side of the University buildings proper was shown in the
+last picture (Plate III); in the following (Plate IV), the north side
+of the same block is seen. The old University "schools" lay just
+inside the city wall, and Broad Street, which is there represented,
+occupies the site of the ditch, which ran on the north of the wall.
+This picture is a fitting supplement to the last, for the Sheldonian
+Theatre on the right of it and the Clarendon Building in the
+background may claim rank even with the Bodleian and the Radcliffe as
+the University's special buildings.
+
+The Sheldonian celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary
+only last year (1919), when the music which had been performed at its
+opening was performed once more. It is a building interesting from
+many points of view. Architecturally it marks the first complete
+flowering of the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He was only thirty-
+seven when it was completed, and had been previously known rather as
+a man of science than as an architect; he was Oxford's Professor of
+Astronomy; but Archbishop Sheldon chose him to build a worthy meeting
+place for his University, even as at the same time he was being
+called by the king to prepare plans for rebuilding London after the
+Great Fire.
+
+The very existence of the Sheldonian marks the development of
+University ideas. The simple piety--or was it the worldliness?--of
+Pre-Reformation Oxford had seen nothing unsuitable in the ceremonies
+of graduate Oxford and the ribaldries of undergraduate Oxford taking
+place in the consecrated building of St. Mary's; but the more sober
+genius of Anglicanism was shocked at these secular intrusions, and
+Sheldon provided his University with a worthy home, where its great
+functions have been performed ever since.
+
+The building is a triumph of construction; it is doubtful if so large
+an unsupported roof can be found elsewhere; but Wren is not to be
+held responsible for the outside ugly flat roof, which was put on 100
+years ago, because it was said, quite falsely, that Wren's roof was
+unsafe. That architect had set himself the problem of getting the
+greatest number of people into the space at his disposal, and he
+managed to fit in a building that will hold 1,500. It was also
+intended for the Printing Press of the University, but was only used
+in that way for a short time, as in 1713 Sir John Vanbrugh put up the
+Clarendon Building, to house this department of University activity.
+The "heaviness" of Vanbrugh's buildings was a jest even in his own
+time; someone wrote as an epitaph for him
+
+    "Lie heavy on him. Earth, for he
+     Laid many a heavy load on thee."
+
+Blenheim Palace, his greatest work, is indeed a "heavy load." But the
+same criticism can hardly be brought against the columned portico,
+which forms a fine ending for the Broad Street. Vanbrugh's building
+was superseded in its turn, when the increasing business of the
+Oxford Printing Press was moved to the present building in 1830.
+
+ [Plate IV. Sheldonian Theatre, etc., Broad Street]
+
+Since then, all kinds of University business have been carried on in
+the old Printing Press. The University Registrar and the University
+Treasurer (his style is "Secretary of the University Chest") have
+their offices there; the Proctors exercise discipline from there; the
+various University delegacies and committees meet there. And another
+side of Oxford life, not yet (in January 1920) fully recognized as
+belonging to the University, has found a home there; the top floor
+has been for twenty years past the centre of women's education in
+Oxford, a position elevated indeed, for it is up more than fifty
+stairs, but commodious and dignified when reached at last.
+
+Perhaps the Clarendon Building has gained in lightness of effect by
+being contrasted with the clumsy mass of the Indian Institute, which
+forms the background of our picture. The nineteenth century proudly
+criticized the taste of the eighteenth; but it may well be doubted if
+any building in Oxford of the earlier and much-abused century is more
+inartistic and inappropriate than "Jumbo's Joss House," which used to
+rouse the scorn and anger of the late Professor of History, Edward A.
+Freeman.
+
+No Oxford colleges are in this picture, though a small part of
+Exeter, one of Sir Gilbert Scott's least happy erections in Oxford,
+appears on the right, and a little piece of Trinity on the left; the
+last-named is the college of Professor Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch,
+better known as "Q," one of the most delightful of Oxford's minor
+poets. The opening lines of his poem, "Alma Mater,"
+
+    "Know ye her secret none can utter,
+       Hers of the book, the tripled crown?
+     Still on the spire the pigeons flutter,
+       Still by the gateway flits the gown,
+     Still in the street from corbel and gutter
+       Faces of stone look down,"
+
+may well have been inspired by this very scene in the Broad, for the
+grim faces of stone that surround the Sheldonian are one of the
+features and the puzzles of Oxford. Are they the Roman Emperors, or
+the Greek Philosophers, or neither? It does not matter, for they are
+unlike anything in heaven or in earth, and yet they are loved by all
+true Oxford men for their uncompromising ugliness, which has been
+familiar to so many generations.
+
+
+
+BALLIOL COLLEGE
+
+    "For the house of Balliol is builded ever
+     By all the labours of all her sons,
+     And the great deed wrought and the grand endeavour
+     Will be hers as long as the Isis runs."
+                                             F. S. BOAS
+
+The story is told of the old Greek admirals, after their victory at
+Salamis over the Persian king, that, when invited to name the two
+most deserving commanders, they each put their own name first, and
+then one and all put the Athenian Themistocles second. If a vote, on
+these principles, were taken in Oxford as to which was the best
+college, there is little doubt that Balliol would secure most of the
+second votes.
+
+It is one of the three oldest colleges, and actually has been in
+occupation of its present site longer than any other of our Oxford
+foundations--for more than six centuries and a half. Yet its
+greatness is but a thing of yesterday compared to the antiquity of
+Oxford, and it is fitting that a college which has come to the front
+in the nineteenth century should be mainly housed in nineteenth
+century buildings.
+
+Balliol has indeed ceased to be the "most satisfactory pile and range
+of old lowered and gabled edifices," which Nathaniel Hawthorne saw in
+the "fifties" of the last century. The painful imitation of a French
+chateau, the work of Sir Alfred Waterhouse, which forms the main part
+of our picture, was put up about 1868 (mainly by the munificence of
+Miss Hannah Brackenbury), and only the old hall and the library,
+which lie behind, remain of Pre-Reformation Balliol.
+
+In the background of our picture (Plate V) can be seen the Fisher
+Building, known to all Balliol men for the still existing
+inscription, "Verbum non amplius Fisher," which tradition says was
+put up at the dying request of the eighteenth-century benefactor.
+
+While it is true that the pre-eminence of Balliol is a growth of the
+nineteenth century, yet the college can count among its worthies one
+of the greatest names in English mediaeval history, that of John
+Wycliffe. He was probably a scholar of Balliol, and certainly Master
+for some years about 1360. But he left the college for a country
+living, and his time at Balliol is not associated with either of his
+most important works--his translation of the Bible or his order of
+"Poor Preachers." While at Balliol, he was rather "the last of the
+Schoolmen" than "the first of the Reformers."
+
+The modern greatness of Balliol is due to the fact that the college
+awoke more rapidly from the sleep of the eighteenth century than most
+of Oxford, and as early as 1828 threw open its scholarships to free
+competition. Hence even as early as the time of Dr. Arnold at Rugby,
+a "Balliol scholarship" had become "the blue riband of public-school
+education." It has now passed into popular phraseology to such an
+extent that lady novelists, unversed in academic niceties, confer a
+"Balliol scholarship" on their heroes, even when entering Cambridge.
+
+Balliol has known how to take full advantage of its opportunity.
+Governed by a series of eminent masters, especially Dr. Scott of
+Greek dictionary fame, and Professor Jowett, the translator of Plato
+and the hero of more Oxford stories than any other man, it has been
+ready to adapt itself to every new movement. While the governing
+bodies of other colleges in the middle of the last century were too
+often looking only to raising their own fellowships to the highest
+possible point, the Balliol dons were denying their own pockets to
+enrich and strengthen their college.
+
+Hence, undoubtedly, Balliol for a long time past has had a lion's
+share of Oxford's great men; two Archbishops of Canterbury, Tait and
+Temple, the present Archbishop of York, Cardinal Manning, a Prime
+Minister in Mr. Asquith, a Speaker in Lord. Peel, two Viceroys of
+India in Lord Lansdowne and Lord Curzon, poets like Clough, Matthew
+Arnold and Swinburne, these are only some of the more outstanding
+names. It is this which makes Balliol Hall so particularly
+interesting to the ordinary man; knowledge of present-day affairs,
+not of history, is all that is needed to appreciate its array of
+portraits.
+
+Nor has Balliol been unmindful of the social movements of our time.
+It is the chosen home of the Workers' Educational Association in
+Oxford, and in Arnold Toynbee it produced one of the pioneers and
+martyrs of modern social progress. Truly Balliol has much more to
+show to the visitor than its ultra-modern front on the Broad would
+promise.
+
+The street, on which Balliol looks out, is associated with the most
+famous scene of Oxford history; the stone with a cross in the middle
+of the road marks the traditional site of the burning of the bishops,
+Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, although their memorial has been
+erected 200 yards further north in St. Giles', and though
+antiquarians argue (probably correctly) that the actual pyre was a
+little further south, in fact, behind the present row of Broad Street
+houses.
+
+But it is the living activity of the college, not the sad memories of
+the street in front, that gives the interest to the picture. The
+intellectual life of the Balliol men has been well described by
+Professor J. C. Shairp, whose verses on "Balliol Scholars" are likely
+to be remembered by Oxford in long days to come for their
+associations, if not for their poetic merits. He describes what a
+privilege it is "to have passed," with men who became famous
+afterwards,
+
+          "The threshold of young life,
+     Where the man meets, not yet absorbs, the boy,
+     And ere descending to the dusky strife,
+     Gazed from clear heights of intellectual joy
+     That an undying image left enshrined."
+
+ This will come home to many, as they think on their happy Oxford
+days when they had life all before them, even though their
+contemporaries have not become archbishops like Temple or poets like
+Matthew Arnold.
+
+ [Plate V. Balliol College, Broad Street Front]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON COLLEGE
+
+
+    "I passed beside the reverend walls
+     In which of old I wore the gown."
+                           TENNYSON.
+
+
+ [Plate VI. Merton College : The Tower]
+
+Merton is not only the oldest college in Oxford, it is also, as is
+claimed on the monument of the founder, Walter de Merton, in his
+Cathedral of Rochester, the model of "omnium quotquot extant
+collegiorum." Peterhouse, the first college at Cambridge, which was
+founded (1281) seven years later than Merton, had its statutes
+avowedly copied from those of its Oxford predecessor.
+
+So important a new departure in education calls for special notice.
+It is interesting to see how the English college system grew out of
+the long rivalry between the Regular and the Secular clergy which was
+so prominent in the mediaeval church. The Secular clergy, who had in
+their ranks all the "professional men" of the day, civil servants,
+architects, physicians, as well as, those devoted to religious
+matters in the strict sense, were always jealous of the monks and the
+friars, who, living by a "rule" in their communities, were much less
+in sympathy with English national feelings than the Seculars, who
+lived among the laity. Hence the growing influence of the Regular
+Orders, especially of the Franciscans and the Dominicans, in
+thirteenth-century Oxford, excited the alarm of a far-seeing prelate
+like Walter de Merton. There was a real danger that the most
+prominent and best of the students might be drawn into the great new
+communities, which were rapidly adding to their learning and their
+piety the further attractions of great buildings and splendid
+ceremonial.
+
+The founder of Merton had the same purpose as the founder of the
+College of the Sorbonne at Paris, a slightly earlier institution
+(1257). He intended that his college should rival the houses of the
+Dominicans and the Franciscans. These friaries were in the southern
+part of Oxford, and have completely perished, leaving behind only the
+names of two or three mean streets; but the college system which
+Walter de Merton founded has grown with the growth of Oxford and of
+England, and is to-day as vigorous and as useful as ever.
+
+Walter de Merton provided his fellows with noble buildings, at once
+for their common life and for their own private accommodation, and
+also with endowments sufficient to enable them to live in comfort,
+free from anxiety; most important of all, he gave them powers of
+self-government, so that they might recruit their own numbers and
+carry out for themselves the objects prescribed by him in his
+Statutes.
+
+In this great foundation then the three characteristic features of a
+college are found--a common life, powers of self-government, with the
+right of choosing future members, and endowments that enable religion
+and learning to flourish, free from more pressing cares. It is these
+features which distinguish the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, and
+which have determined their history.
+
+Walter de Merton definitely prescribed that none of the fellows who
+benefited by his foundation should be monks or friars; to take the
+vows involved forfeiture of a fellowship. He also especially urged on
+the members of his society that, when any of them rose to "ampler
+fortune" /(uberior fortuna)/, they should not forget their /alma
+mater/.
+
+The founder died in 1277, so that none of the college buildings were
+complete in his time, except perhaps the treasury, which, with its
+high-pitched roof of stone, lies in the opposite corner of the Mob
+Quad to that shown in our picture. Why the Quad is called "The Mob
+Quad," nobody knows. As was fitting, the chapel was the first part of
+the college to be finished--about 1300--and it is a splendid specimen
+of early Geometrical Gothic; it retains a little of the old glass,
+given by one of the early fellows.
+
+The north side of the Mob Quad, which is shown in our picture, is
+very little later than the Chapel, and the whole of the Quad was
+finished before 1400; the rooms in it have been the homes of Oxford
+men for more than five centuries. It is sad to think that so unique a
+building was almost destroyed in the middle of the nineteenth
+century, by the zeal of "reformers"; it was actually condemned to be
+pulled down, to make way for modern buildings, but, fortunately,
+there was an irregularity in the voting. Mr. G. C. Brodrick, then a
+young fellow, later the Warden of the college, insisted on the matter
+being discussed again at a later meeting, and at this the Mob Quad
+was saved by a narrow majority. "He will go to Heaven for it," as
+Corporal Trim said of the English Guards, who saved his broken
+regiment at Steinkirk.
+
+The "reformers" of Merton had to be content with cutting down their
+beautiful "Grove" and spoiling the finest view in Oxford by erecting
+the ugliest building which Mid-Victorian taste inflicted on the
+University.
+
+In the old buildings which so narrowly escaped destruction may have
+lived John Wycliffe, who is claimed as a fellow of Merton in an
+almost contemporary list; his activity in Oxford belongs rather to
+the later time, when he was Master of Balliol. His is one of the
+outstanding names in English history; the success of Merton in
+producing great men of a more ordinary kind can be judged from the
+fact that between 1294 and 1366 six out of the seven Archbishops of
+Canterbury were Merton men.
+
+In the great period of the seventeenth century, Merton had the
+distinction of being one of the few colleges which were
+Parliamentarian in sympathy. Hence the Warden was deposed by King
+Charles, who installed in his place a really great man, William
+Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood. But the king
+did more harm than good to the college; it was turned into lodgings
+for Queen Henrietta Maria and her court, and ladies were intruded and
+children born within college walls. These proceedings were
+respectable, though unusual; but the college was even more humiliated
+by the visit of Charles II, who installed there, among other court
+ladies, the notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The college, however,
+with the Revolution, returned to less courtly views, and its Whig
+connection found an honourable representative in Richard Steele, the
+founder of the /Tatler/. It is not surprising that so cheerful a
+gentleman left Oxford without a degree, but "with the love of the
+whole society." The college register specially notes his gift of his
+/Tatler/; he was acting on the sound rule, by no means so universally
+followed as it ought to be, that Oxford authors should present their
+books to their college library.
+
+Merton, as has been said, is the "type" college, if one may thus
+apply a scientific term; hence it is fitting that to it belong the
+two men to whom perhaps Oxford owes most. Thomas Bodley was a fellow
+and lecturer in Greek there, before he left Oxford for diplomacy, and
+accumulated that wealth which he used to endow the oldest and the
+most fascinating, if not the largest, of British libraries. And among
+the men who have gained from "the rare books in the public library" a
+way to a "perfect elysium," none better deserves remembrance than the
+Mertonian, Antony Wood, whose monument stands in Merton Chapel, but
+who has raised /monumentum aere perennius/ to himself, in his
+/History of the University of Oxford/ and his /Athenae Oxonienses/.
+
+ [Plate VII. Merton College : The Library Interior]
+
+
+
+
+MERTON LIBRARY
+
+
+    "Hail, tree of knowledge! thy leaves fruit; which well
+     Dost in the midst of Paradise arise,
+             Oxford, the Muses' paradise,
+     From which may never sword the blest expel.
+     Hail, bank of all past ages! where they lie
+ To enrich, with interest, posterity."
+                                               COWLEY.
+
+"The appearance of the library" (at Merton), says the great Cambridge
+scholar, J. Willis Clark, in his /Care of Books/, "is so venerable,
+so unlike any similar room with which I am acquainted, that it must
+always command admiration."
+
+He classes it with the libraries at Oxford of Corpus, St. John's,
+Jesus, and Magdalen, and he regretfully adds that no college library
+in his own University has retained the same old features as these
+have done. But none of the four can compare with Merton, either in
+antiquarian interest or in picturesqueness; it stands in a class by
+itself.
+
+The Library was built by the munificence of Bishop Reed of Chichester
+between 1377 and 1379; the dormer windows, however (seen in Plate
+VII), are later in date. The bookcases in the larger room were made
+in 1623; one of the original half cases, however, was spared, that
+nearest to the entrance on the north side, and this is the most
+interesting single feature in the whole library. It need hardly be
+said that the reading-desk in early times was actually attached to
+the bookcase; the library then was a place to read in, not one from
+which books were taken to be read. The books were to be kept "in some
+common and secure place," and they were "chained in the library
+chamber for the common use of the fellows" (J. W. Clark).
+
+The old case that has been retained still has its chained books, and
+traces of the arrangement for chains can be seen in the other cases.
+Merton was one of the last libraries in Oxford to keep its books in
+chains; these were only removed in 1792; in the Bodleian the work had
+been begun a generation earlier (in 1757).
+
+Not all books, however, were chained; by special arrangements in old
+college statutes, some of them were allowed out to the fellows. The
+register of Merton contains interesting entries as to how the books
+were distributed, e.g. on August 26, 1500, "choice was made of the
+books on philosophy; it was found there were in all 349 books, which
+were then distributed." This was a large number: at King's,
+Cambridge, less than half a century before, there were only 174 books
+on all subjects, and in the Cambridge University Library in 1473,
+only 330.
+
+If a book was borrowed, great precautions were taken; the Warden of
+Merton in 1498 had to obtain the leave of the college to take out a
+book which he wanted; then, "in the presence of the four seniors," he
+received his book, depositing two volumes of St. Jerome's
+Commentaries as pledges for its safe return. A similar ceremony, with
+a similar entry in the register, marked the replacement of the book
+in the library. Though printing was already beginning to multiply
+books, yet then, and for long after, a book was a most valuable
+possession. The features of these venerable tomes are well described
+by Crabbe:
+
+    "That weight of wood, with leathern coat o'erlaid,
+     Those ample clasps, of solid metal made,
+     The close pressed leaves, unclosed for many an age,
+     The dull red edging of the well-filled page,
+     On the broad back the stubborn ridges rolled,
+     Where yet the title shines in tarnished gold,
+     These all a sage and laboured work proclaim,
+     A painful candidate for lasting fame."
+
+Such books are numbered by hundreds in every college library, and it
+is only too true of them that:
+
+    "Hence in these times, untouched the pages lie
+     And slumber out their immortality."
+
+The reception of such a book in a library was an event, and the
+record of one gift occupies six whole lines in the Merton Register;
+its donors are named as "two venerable men," and the entry sweetly
+concludes, "Let us, therefore, pray for them."
+
+The library, problem, acute everywhere, is perhaps especially so in a
+college library. How can it keep pace with the multiplicity of
+studies? How should it deal with books indispensable for a short
+time, perhaps for one generation, and then superseded? Even apart
+from the question of the cost of purchase, the amount of space
+available is small, considering modern needs. These problems and such
+as these have not yet been solved by college librarians; but the
+college library, quite apart from the books in it, is an education in
+itself. The old days of neglect are past, the days reflected in the
+scandalous story--told of more than one college--about the old fellow
+who was missing for two months, and, after being searched for high
+and low, was found hanging dead in the college library. Now the
+libraries everywhere are being used continually, and men can realize
+in them, perhaps better than anywhere else, how great the past of
+Oxford has been, and can form some idea of the labours of forgotten
+generations, which have made the University what it was and what it
+is.
+
+Every library has its treasures, to show the present generation how
+beautiful an old book can be which was produced in days when its
+production was not a mere publisher's speculation, but the work of a
+scholar seeking to promote knowledge and advance the cause of Truth.
+And it does not require much imagination for a student, in a building
+like Merton Library, to conjure up the picture of his mediaeval
+predecessor, sitting on his hard wooden bench, with his chained MSS.
+volume on the shelf above, and poring over the crabbed pages in the
+unwarmed, half-lighted chamber. If the picture brings with it the
+thought of the transitoriness of human endeavour, and if the words of
+the Teacher seem doubly true, "Of making of books there is no end,
+and much study is a weariness of the flesh," yet in the fresh life of
+young Oxford, such reflections are only salutary; pessimism, despair
+of humanity, are not vices likely to flourish among undergraduates in
+the healthy society of modern colleges.
+
+Those only, it might be said, can properly reform the present who
+understand the past, and it is perhaps the spirit of the Merton
+Library, at once old and new, which has inspired the statesmen whom
+Merton has sent to take part in the government of Britain during the
+last half-century. Lord Randolph Churchill, the founder of Tory
+democracy, his present-day successor in the same role, Lord
+Birkenhead, and the ever young Lord Halsbury are men of the type
+which Walter de Merton wished to train, "for the service of God in
+Church and State," men who champion the existing order, but who are
+willing to develop and improve it on the old lines.
+
+
+
+
+ ORIEL COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Here at each coign of every antique street
+     A memory hath taken root in stone,
+     Here Raleigh shone."
+                                      L. JOHNSON.
+
+ [Plate VIII. Oriel College and St. Mary's Church]
+
+It is a curious coincidence that three of the most troubled reigns of
+English history have been marked by double college foundations in
+Oxford. That of Henry VI, in spite of constant civil war, threatening
+or actual, saw the beginnings of All Souls' and of Magdalen; the
+short and sad reign of Mary Tudor restored to Oxford Trinity and St.
+John's; and in an earlier century the ministers of Edward II, the
+most unroyal of our Plantagenet kings, gave to Oxford Exeter and
+Oriel. The king himself was graciously pleased to accept the honour
+of the latter foundation, and his statue adorns the College Quad,
+along with that of Charles I, in whose day the whole College was
+rebuilt. The front may be compared architecturally with those of
+Wadham and of University, which date from about the same period (the
+first part of the seventeenth century), when, under the fostering
+care of Archbishop Laud, Oxford increased greatly in numbers, in
+learning, and in buildings. Though Oriel has neither the bold sweep
+of University nor the perfect proportions of Wadham, it yet is a
+pleasing building, at least in its front.
+
+Like New College, Oriel is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and, also
+like New College, the name of "St. Mary's" early gave way to a
+popular nickname. The College at once on its foundation received the
+gift of a tenement called "L'Oriole," which occupied its present
+site, and its name has displaced the real style of the College in
+general use.
+
+It is only fitting that, as in our picture, St. Mary's Church should
+be combined with Oriel, for the founder was Vicar of St. Mary's, and
+the presentation to that living has ever since been in the hands of
+the College. It was as a Fellow of Oriel that Newman became, in 1828,
+Vicar of St. Mary's, from the pulpit of which, during thirteen years,
+he moulded all that was best in the religious life of Oxford. The
+glorious spire of the church was still new when the College was
+founded.
+
+Oriel and its chapel are among the places for religious pilgrimage in
+Oxford. As Lincoln draws from all parts of the world those who
+reverence the name of John Wesley, so the Oxford Movement and the
+Anglican Revival had their starting-point, and for some time their
+centre, in Oriel. The connection of the College with the Movement was
+not in either case a mere accident; the Oxford Revival, at any rate,
+was profoundly influenced by the personality of Newman, and Newman,
+both by attraction and by repulsion, was largely what Oriel made him.
+Among those who were with him at the College were Archbishop Whately,
+whose Liberalism repelled him, Hawkins, the Provost, whose views on
+"Tradition" began to modify the Evangelicalism in which he had been
+brought up, Keble, whose /Christian Year/ did more for Church
+teaching in England than countless sermons, Pusey, already famous for
+his learning and his piety, who was to give his name to the Movement,
+and, slightly later, Church, afterwards Dean of St. Paul's, the
+historian of the Movement, and Samuel Wilberforce, who, as Bishop of
+Oxford, was to show how profoundly it would increase the influence of
+the English Church.
+
+Such a combination of famous names at one time is hardly found in the
+history of any other college, and it would be easy to add others
+hardly less known, who were also members of the same body at that
+famous time. Hero-worshippers can still see the rooms where these
+great men lived, and the Common Room in which they met and argued, in
+the days when Oxford did less teaching and had more time for talking
+and for thinking than the busy, hurrying ways of the twentieth
+century allow. But Oriel has many other associations besides those of
+the Oxford Movement. Walter Raleigh, the most fascinating of
+Elizabethans, was a student there, and probably in Oxford met the
+great historian of travel and discovery, Richard Hakluyt (a Christ
+Church man), whose influence did so much to bring home to Oxford the
+wonders of the strange worlds beyond the seas. It was probably also
+through his connection with Oriel that Raleigh made the acquaintance
+of Harriot, who shared in his colonial ventures in Virginia, and who
+became the historian of that foundation, so full of importance as the
+beginning of the new England across the Atlantic. It was only fitting
+that the Raleigh of the nineteenth century, Cecil John Rhodes, should
+also be an Oriel man, who was never weary of acknowledging what he
+owed to Oxford, and who showed his faith in her by his works. The
+Rhodes' Foundation expends his millions in bringing scholars to
+Oxford from the whole world; already its influence has been great
+during its twenty years of existence; what it will be in the future,
+only the future can show. If Mr. Rhodes gave his millions to the
+University, he gave his tens of thousands to his old College. The
+result on the High Street is--to put it gently--not altogether happy;
+but perhaps time may soften the lines of Mr. Champney's somewhat
+uninspired front, though it is not likely to quicken interest in the
+statues of the obscure provosts which adorn it.
+
+
+
+
+QUEEN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+    "The building, parent of my young essays,
+     Asks in return a tributary praise;
+     Pillars sublime bear up the learned weight,
+     And antique sages tread the pompous height."
+                                          TICKELL.
+
+Queens's is one of the six oldest colleges in Oxford, and is far on
+to celebrating its sexcentenary, but it has purged itself of the
+Gothic leaven in its buildings more completely than any other Oxford
+foundation. It does not even occupy its own old site, for the
+building originally lay well back from the High Street. It was only
+the "civilities and kindnesses" of Provost Lancaster which induced
+the Mayor and Corporation of Oxford, in 1709, to grant to Queen's
+College "for 1,000 years," "so much ground on the High Street as
+shall be requisite for making their intended new building straight
+and uniform." And so the most important of "the streamlike windings
+of the glorious street" was in part determined by a corrupt bargain
+between "a vile Whig" (as Hearne calls this hated Provost) and a
+complaisant mayor. But much of the credit for the beauty of this part
+of the High must also be given to the architect of University College
+(seen in Plate IX on the left), who, whether by skill or by accident,
+combined at a most graceful angle the two quads, erected with an
+interval of some eighty years between them (1634 and 1719).
+
+A man must, indeed, be a Gothic purist who would wish away the
+stately front quadrangle of Queen's, designed by Wren's favourite
+pupil, Hawkmoor, while the master himself is said to be responsible
+for the chapel of the College, the most perfect basilican church in
+Oxford.
+
+If Queen's has been revolutionary in its buildings, it has been
+singularly tenacious of old customs. Its members still assemble at
+dinner to the sound of the trumpet (blown by a curious arrangement
+/after/ grace has been said); it still keeps up the ancient and
+honoured custom of bringing in the boar's head--"the chief service of
+this land"--for dinner on Christmas Day; while on New Year's Day, the
+Bursar still, as has been done for nearly 600 years, bids his guests
+"take this and be thrifty," as he hands each a "needle and thread,"
+wherewith to mend their academic hoods; the /aiguille et fil/ is
+probably a pun on the name of the founder, Robert Eglesfield. The
+College at these festivities uses the loving, cup, given it by its
+founder, perhaps the oldest piece of plate in constant use anywhere
+in Great Britain; five and a half centuries of good liquor have
+stained the gold-mounted aurochs' horn to a colour of unrivalled
+softness and beauty.
+
+Robert Eglesfield was almoner of the good Queen Philippa, wife of
+Edward III, and, like Adam de Brome, the founder of Oriel, he, too,
+commended his college to a royal patron. Ever since his time, the
+"Queen's College" has been under the patronage of the Queen's consort
+of England, and the connection has been duly acknowledged by many of
+them, especially by Henrietta Maria, the evil genius of Charles I,
+and by Queen Caroline, the good genius of George II. Her present
+Gracious Majesty, too, has recognized the college claim. The Queens
+Regnant have no obligations to the college, but Queen Elizabeth gave
+it the seal it still uses, and good Queen Anne was a liberal
+contributor to the rebuilding of the college in her day; her statue
+still adorns the cupola on the front to the High.
+
+ [Plate IX. High Street]
+
+No doubt it was the royal connection which brought to Queen's, if
+tradition may be trusted, two famous warrior princes, the Black
+Prince and Henry V; though it is at least doubtful whether the
+Queen's poet, Thomas Tickell, Addison's flattering friend, had any
+authority for the picture he gives of their college life. He
+describes them as:
+
+    "Sent from the Monarch's to the Muses' Court,
+     Their meals were frugal and their sleeps were short;
+     To couch at curfew time they thought no scorn,
+     And froze at matins every winters morn."
+
+The College has an interesting portrait of the great Henry, which may
+be authentic; but that of the Black Prince, which adorns the college
+hall, is known to have been painted from a handsome Oxford butcher's
+boy, in the eighteenth century. While we condemn the lack of historic
+sense in the Provost and Fellows of that day, we may at least acquit
+them of any intention of pacificist irony in their choice of a model.
+
+Queen's has had better poets than Tickell on its rolls, but, by a
+curious chance, the two most eminent--Joseph Addison and William
+Collins--were both tempted away from their first college by the
+superior wealth and attractions of Magdalen.
+
+The old local connections which were such a marked feature in the
+statutes of founders, and which so profoundly influenced Oxford down
+to the Commission of 1854, have been almost swept away at other
+colleges; but at Queen's they have always been strongly maintained.
+It has been, and is, emphatically, a north-country college. Not the
+least important factor in maintaining this tradition has been the
+great benefaction of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, fondly and familiarly
+known to all Queen's men as "Lady Betty." Steele wrote of her when
+young, that to "love her was a liberal education"; this may have been
+flattery, but her bounty, at any rate, has given a "liberal
+education" to hundreds of north-country men, who come up from the
+twelve schools of her foundation to her college at Oxford.
+
+It is interesting to note in Modern Oxford, attempts to re-establish
+those local connections, which the wisdom of our ancestors
+established, and which the self-complacency of Victorian reformers
+"vilely cast away."
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (1) FOUNDER AND BUILDINGS
+
+    "There the kindly fates allowed
+     Me too room, and made me proud,
+     Prouder name I have not wist,
+     With the name of Wykehamist."
+                               L. JOHNSON.
+
+
+ [Plate X. New College : The Entrance Gateway]
+
+Among the "Founders" of Oxford colleges, three stand out pre-eminent
+--all three bishops of Winchester and great public servants. If
+Wolsey has undisputed claims for first place, there can be little
+doubt that, in spite of the great public services of Bishop Foxe, the
+Founder of Corpus, the second place must be assigned to William of
+Wykeham, "sometime Lord High Chancellor of England, the sole and
+munificent founder of the two St. Mary Winton colleges." Others,
+beside Wykehamists, hear with pleasure the magnificent roll of the
+titles of the Founder of New College, when one of his intellectual
+sons occupies the University pulpit, and gives thanks for "founders
+and benefactors, such as were William of Wykeham."
+
+In Oxford, without doubt, his great claim to be remembered will be
+held to be his college with the school at Winchester, which he linked
+to it. But he was also a reformer and a champion of Parliamentary
+privilege in the days when the "Good Parliament" set to work to check
+the misgovernment of Edward III in his dotage, and, as an architect,
+he is equally famous as having given to Windsor Castle its present
+shape, and as having secured the final triumph of the Perpendicular
+style by his glorious nave at Winchester.
+
+William of Wykeham is a very striking instance of what is too often
+Forgotten--viz., that in the Mediaeval Church all professional men,
+and not simply spiritual pastors, found their work and their reward
+in the ranks of the clergy. As "supervisor of the king's works," he
+earned the royal favour, which, after sixteen years of service,
+rewarded him with the rich bishopric of Winchester. Such a career and
+such a reward seem to modern ideas incongruous, even as they did to
+John Wycliffe, his great contemporary, who complained of men being
+made bishops because they were "wise in building castles." But many
+forms of service were needed to create England; Wykeham and Wycliffe
+both have a place in the roll of its "Makers." At all events, if
+Wykeham obtained his wealth by secular service, he spent it for the
+promoting of the welfare of the Church, as he conceived it. The
+purpose of his two colleges was to remedy the shortness of clergy in
+his day, and to assist the /militia clericalis/, which had been
+grievously reduced /pestilentiis, guerris et aliis mundi miseriis/
+(an obvious reference to the Black Death).
+
+New College was planned on a scale of magnificence which far exceeded
+any of the earlier colleges. It was emphatically the "New College,"
+[1] and its foundation (it was opened in 1386) marks the final
+triumph of the college system.
+
+[1] The popular name has entirety displaced its official style.
+Rather more than a generation ago, an historically minded Wykehamist
+tried to revive the proper style of his college, and headed all his
+letters "The College, of St. Mary of Winchester, Oxford." The result
+was disastrous for him; the replies came to the Vicar of St. Mary's,
+to St. Mary's Hall, to Winchester, anywhere but to him; and very soon
+practical necessity overcame antiquarian, propriety.
+
+Its Warden was to have a state corresponding to that of the great
+mitred abbots; the stables, where he kept his six horses, on the
+south side of New College Lane (to be seen in Plate X on the right),
+show, by their perfect masonry, how well the architect-bishop chose
+his materials and how skilfully they were worked.
+
+The entrance tower, in the centre of the picture, with its statues of
+the Blessed Virgin and of the Founder in adoration below on her left,
+was the abode of the Warden; but his lodgings, still the most
+magnificent home in Oxford, extended in both directions from the
+tower.
+
+Behind this front lay Wykeham's Quad, nestling under the shadow of
+the towering chapel and hall on the north side. Here also, as in the
+stables, the technical knowledge of the Founder is seen; his
+"chambers," after more than 500 years, have still their old stone
+unrenewed; while the third story, added 300 years later on (1674-5),
+has had to be entirely refaced.
+
+But it is in the public buildings, and especially in the chapel, that
+the greatness of Wykeham, as an architect, is best seen. In spite of
+the destructive fanaticism of the Reformation, and the almost equally
+destructive "restorations" of the notorious Wyatt, and of Sir Gilbert
+Scott (who inexcusably raised the height of the roof), the chapel
+still is indisputably the finest in Oxford. And its glass may
+challenge a still wider field. The eight great windows in the ante-
+chapel, dating from the Founder's time, rival the glories of the
+French cathedrals; the windows of the chapel proper, whatever be
+thought of their artistic success, are a unique instance of what
+English glass-makers could do in the eighteenth century; and Sir
+Joshua Reynolds' west window (the outside of which is seen in the
+centre of the next picture) has at all events the suffrages of the
+majority, who agree with Horace Walpole that it is "glorious," and
+that "the sun shining through the transparencies has a magic effect."
+It must be added, however, that Walpole soon changed his mind, and
+was very severe on Sir Joshua's "washy virtues," which have been
+compared to "seven chambermaids."
+
+Not the least interesting feature of the Founder's chapel is its
+detached bell-tower, seen in the next picture, on the north side of
+the cloisters. He obtained leave to place this on the city wall, a
+large section of which the College undertook to maintain-thus adding
+a permanent charm to their own garden.
+
+The magnificence of the Founder Bishop is well seen in his splendid
+crozier, bequeathed to him by his college, and still preserved on the
+north side of the chapel. The results of his work, for Oxford and for
+learning, will be briefly told of in the next chapter.
+
+ [Plate XI. New College : The Tower]
+
+
+
+
+NEW COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "Round thy cloisters, in moonlight,
+     Branching dark, or touched with white:
+     Round old chill aisles, where, moon-smitten,
+     Blanches the Orate, written
+     Under each worn old-world face."
+                                       L. JOHHSON.
+
+William of Wykeham's College had other marked features besides its
+magnificent scale. Previous colleges had grown; at New College
+everything was organized from the first. As the great architectural
+History of Cambridge says: "For the first time, chapel, hall,
+library, treasury, the Warden's lodgings, a sufficient range of
+chambers, the cloister, the various domestic offices, are provided
+for and erected without change of plan." The chapel especially gave
+the model for the T shape, a choir and transepts without a nave,
+which has become the normal form in Oxford. The influence of
+Wykeham's building plan may be traced elsewhere also--at Cambridge
+and even in Scotland.
+
+In these well-planned buildings, definite arrangements were made for
+college instruction, as opposed to the general teaching open to the
+whole University; special /informafores/ were provided, who were to
+supervise the work of all scholars up to the age of sixteen. This
+marks the beginning of the Tutorial System, which has ever since
+played so great a part in the intellectual life of England's two old
+Universities.
+
+Wykeham's scholars all came from Winchester, and were supposed to be
+/pauperes/, but as one of the first, Henry Chichele, afterwards Henry
+V's Archbishop of Canterbury and the Founder of All Souls', was a son
+of the Lord Mayor of London, it is obvious that the qualification of
+"poverty" was interpreted with some laxity. It was not until the
+middle of the nineteenth century that others than Wykehamists were
+admitted as scholars.
+
+The fact that a mere boy was elected to a position which provided for
+him for life was not calculated to stimulate subsequent intellectual
+activity, and Wykehamists themselves have been among the first to say
+that the intellectual distinction of the great bishop's beneficiaries
+has by no means corresponded to the magnificence of the foundation or
+the noble intentions of the Founder. Antony Wood records in the
+seventeenth century that there was already an "ugly proverb" as to
+New College men--"Golden scholars, silver Bachelors, leaden Masters,
+wooden Doctors," "which is attributed," he goes on, "to their rich
+fellowships, especially to their ease and good diet, in which I think
+they exceed any college else."
+
+The nineteenth century has changed all this; the small and close
+college of pre-Commission days has become one of the largest and most
+intellectual in the University; but Winchester men in their Oxford
+college fully hold their own in every way against the scholars from
+the world outside, who are now admitted to share with them the
+advantages of Wykeham's foundation.
+
+The bishop's careful provision, however, of good teaching at his
+school and in his college bore good fruit at first, whatever may have
+been the result later. If Corpus is especially the college of the
+revival of learning, New College had prepared the way, and the first
+Englishman to teach Greek in Oxford was the New College fellow,
+William Grocyn, whom Erasmus called the "most upright and best of all
+Britons." From the same college, about the same time, came the patron
+of Erasmus, Archbishop Warham, of whose saintly simplicity and love
+of learning he gives so attractive a picture. Warham was not
+forgetful of his old college, and presented the beautiful "linen
+fold" panelling which still adorns the hall.
+
+At the time of the Reformation, New College was especially attached
+to the old form of the faith, and it has been maintained that the
+dangerous lowness of the wicket entrance in the Gate Tower was due to
+the deliberate purpose of the governing body, who resolved that
+everyone who entered the college, however Protestant his views,
+should bow his head under the statue of the Blessed Virgin above. At
+any rate, one New College man in the seventeenth century attributed
+his perversion to "the lively memorials of Popery in statues and
+pictures in the gates and in the chapel of New College."
+
+Certain it is that under Elizabeth, after the purging of the college
+from its recusant fellows, who contributed a large share of the Roman
+controversialists to the colleges of Louvain and Douai, Wykeham's
+foundation sank, as has been said, into inglorious ease for two
+centuries. Yet, during this period, it had the honour of producing
+two of the Seven Bishops who resisted King James II's attack on the
+English Constitution--one of them the saintly hymn writer, Thomas
+Ken. And to the darkest days of the eighteenth century belongs the
+most famous picture of the ideal Oxford life: "I spent many years, in
+that illustrious society, in a well-regulated course of useful
+discipline and studies, and in the agreeable and improving commerce
+of gentlemen and of scholars; in a society where emulation without
+envy, ambition without jealousy, contention without animosity,
+incited industry and awakened genius; where a liberal pursuit of
+knowledge and a genuine freedom of thought was raised, encouraged,
+and pushed forward by example, by commendation, and by authority."
+These were the words of Bishop Lowth, whose great work on /The Poetry
+of the Hebrews/ was delivered as lectures for the Chair of Poetry at
+Oxford.
+
+The spirit of Oxford has never been better described, and even that
+bitter critic, the great historian Gibbon, admits that Lowth
+practised what he preached, and that he was an ornament to the
+University in its darkest period. Of the days of Reform a forerunner
+was found in Sydney Smith, the witty Canon of St. Paul's.
+
+The names of New College men famous for learning or for political
+success, during the last half-century, are too recent to mention, but
+it is fitting to put on record that to New College belongs the sad
+distinction of having the longest Roll of Honour in the late War. It
+has lost about 250 of its sons, including four of the most
+distinguished young tutors in Oxford; History and Philosophy,
+Scholarship and Natural Science are all of them the poorer for the
+premature loss of Cheesman and Heath, Hunter and Geoffrey Smith;
+their names are familiar to everyone in Oxford, and they would have
+been familiar some day to the world of scholars everywhere. /Dis
+aliter visum est/.
+
+
+
+
+LINCOLN COLLEGE
+
+
+    "This is the chapel; here, my son,
+       Thy father dreamed the dreams of youth,
+     And heard the words, which, one by one,
+       The touch of life has turned to truth."
+                                       NEWBOLT.
+
+
+ [Plate XII. Lincoln College : The Chapel Interior]
+
+The name of Lincoln College recalls a fact familiar to all students
+of ecclesiastical history, though surprising to the ordinary man--
+viz., that Oxford, till the Reformation, was in the great diocese of
+Lincoln, which stretched right across the Midlands from the Humber to
+the Thames. This fact had an important bearing on the history of the
+University; its bishop was near enough to help and protect, but not
+near enough to interfere constantly. Hence arose the curious position
+of the Oxford Chancellor, the real head of the mediaeval University
+and still its nominal head; though an ecclesiastical dignitary, and
+representing the Bishop, the Oxford Chancellor was not a cathedral
+official, but the elect of the resident Masters of Arts. How
+important this arrangement was for the independence of the University
+will be obvious.
+
+The ecclesiastical position of Oxford is responsible also for the
+foundation of four of its colleges; both Lincoln and Brasenose,
+colleges that touch each other, were founded by Bishops of Lincoln;
+Foxe and Wolsey, too, though holding other sees later, ruled over the
+great midland diocese.
+
+Richard Fleming, the Bishop of Lincoln, who founded the college that
+bears the name of his see, was in some ways a remarkable man. When
+resident in Oxford, he had been prominent among the followers of John
+Wycliffe and had shared his reforming views; but he was alarmed at
+the development of his master's teaching in the hands of disciples,
+and set himself to oppose the movement which he had once favoured. He
+founded his "little college" with the express object of training
+"theologians" "to defend the mysteries of the sacred page against
+those ignorant laics, who profaned with swinish snouts its most holy
+pearls." It is curious that Lincoln's great title to fame--and it is
+a very great one--is that its most distinguished fellow was John
+Wesley, the Wycliffe of the eighteenth century.
+
+The connection of Oxford and Lincoln College with Wesley and his
+movement is no accidental one, based merely on the fact that he
+resided there for a certain time. Humanly speaking, Wesley's
+connection with Lincoln was a determining factor in his spiritual and
+mental development, and it was while he was there that his followers
+received the name of "Methodists," a name given in scorn, but one
+which has become a thing of pride to millions. Wesley was a fellow of
+Lincoln for nine years, from 1726 to 1735. During the most
+impressionable years of a man's life--he was only twenty-three when
+he was elected fellow--he was developing his mental powers by an
+elaborate course of studies, and his spiritual life by the careful
+use of every form of religious discipline which the Church
+prescribed. A college, with its daily services and its life apart
+from the world, rendered the practice of such discipline possible. It
+was because Wesley and his followers, his brother Charles, George
+Whitefield and others, observed this discipline so carefully that
+they obtained their nickname. It is with good reason that Lincoln
+Chapel is visited by his disciples from all parts of the world; it
+has been little altered since his time, his pulpit is still here, and
+the glass and the carving which make it very interesting, if not
+beautiful, are those which he saw daily.
+
+The chapel is the memorial of the devotion to Lincoln of another
+churchman, more successful than Wesley from a worldly point of view,
+but now forgotten by all except professed students of history. John
+Williams, Bishop of Lincoln from 1621 to 1641, was the last
+ecclesiastic who "kept" the Great Seal of England. He had the
+misfortune to differ from Laud on the Church Question of the day, and
+was prosecuted before the Star Chamber for subornation of perjury,
+and heavily fined. There seems no doubt that he was guilty; but it
+was to advocacy of moderation and to his dislike of the king's
+arbitrary rule that he owed the severity of his punishment. Whatever
+his moral character, at all events he gave his college a beautiful
+little chapel, which is often compared to the slightly older one at
+Wadham; that of Lincoln is much the less spacious of the two, but in
+its wood carvings, at any rate, it is superior.
+
+Lincoln had the ill-fortune, in the nineteenth century, to produce
+the writer of one of those academic "Memoirs," which reveal, with a
+scholar's literary style, and also with a scholar's bitterness, the
+intrigues and quarrels that from time to time arise within college
+walls. Mark Pattison is likely to be remembered by the world in
+general because he is said to have been the original of George
+Eliot's "Mr. Casaubon"; in Oxford he will be remembered not only for
+the "Memoirs," but also as one who upheld the highest ideal of
+"Scholarship" when it was likely to be forgotten, and who criticized
+the neglect of "research." The personal attacks were those of a
+disappointed man; the criticisms, one-sided as they were, were
+certainly not unjustified.
+
+A university should certainly exist to promote learning, and Mark
+Pattison, with all his unfairness, certainly helped its cause in
+Oxford. But a university exists also for the promotion of friendships
+among young men, and for the development of their social life. Of
+this duty, Oxford has never been unmindful, and perhaps it is in
+small colleges like Lincoln that the flowers of friendship best
+flourish. It is needless to make comparisons, for they flourish
+everywhere; but it is appropriate to quote, when writing of one of
+the smaller Oxford colleges, the verses on this subject of a recent
+Lincoln poet (now dead); they will come home to every Oxford man:
+
+    "City of my loves and dreams,
+     Lady throned by limpid streams;
+     'Neath the shadow of thy towers,
+     Numbered I my happiest hours.
+     Here the youth became a man;
+     Thought and reason here began.
+     Ah! my friends, I thought you then
+     Perfect types of perfect men:
+     Glamour fades, I know not how,
+     Ye have all your failings now,"
+
+But Oxford friendships outlast the discovery that friends have
+"failings"; as Lord Morley, who went to Lincoln in 1856, writes:
+"Companionship (at Oxford) was more than lectures"; a friend's
+failure later (he refers to his contemporary, Cotter Morison's
+/Service of Man/) "could not impair the captivating comradeship of
+his prime."
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (1) SITE AND BUILDINGS
+
+
+    "Where yearly in that vernal hour
+     The sacred city is in shades reclining,
+     With gilded turrets in the sunrise shining:
+     From sainted Magdalene's aerial tower
+     Sounds far aloof that ancient chant are singing,
+     And round the heart again those solemn memories bringing."
+                                     ISAAC WILLIAMS.
+
+Macaulay was too good a Cambridge man to appreciate an Oxford college
+at its full worth; but he devotes one of his finest purple patches to
+the praise of Magdalen, ending, as is fitting, "with the spacious
+gardens along the river side," which, by the way, are not "gardens."
+Antony Wood praises Magdalen as "the most noble and rich structure in
+the learned world," with its water walks as "delectable as the banks
+of Eurotas, where Apollo himself was wont to walk." To go a century
+further back, the Elizabethan, Sir John Davies, wrote:
+
+    "O honeyed Magdalen, sweete, past compare
+     Of all the blissful heavens on earth that are."
+
+Such praises could be multiplied indefinitely, and they are all
+deserved.
+
+The good genius of Magdalen has been faithful to it throughout. The
+old picturesque buildings on the High Street, taken over (1457) by
+the Founder, William of Waynflete, from the already existing hospital
+of St. John, were completed by his munificence in the most attractive
+style of English fifteenth century domestic architecture; Chapel and
+Hall, Cloisters and Founder's Tower, all alike are among the most
+beautiful in Oxford. When classical taste prevailed, the
+architectural purists of the eighteenth century were for sweeping
+almost all this away, and had a plan prepared for making a great
+classic quad; but wiser counsels, or lack of funds, thwarted this
+vandalistic design, and only the north side of the new quad was
+built, to give Magdalen a splendid specimen of eighteenth century
+work, without prejudice to the old. And in our own day, the genius of
+Bodley has raised in St. Swithun's Quad a building worthy of the best
+days of Oxford, while the hideous plaster roof, with which the
+mischievous Wyatt had marred the beauty of the hall, was removed, and
+a seemly oak roof put in its place. It is a great thing to be
+thankful for, that one set of college buildings in Oxford, though
+belonging to so many periods, has nothing that is not of the best.
+
+But the great glory of Magdalen has not yet been mentioned. This is,
+without doubt, its bell tower, which, standing just above the River
+Cherwell, is worthily seen, whether from near or far. A most curious
+and interesting custom is preserved in connection with it. Every May
+morning, at five o'clock (in Antony Wood's time the ceremony was an
+hour earlier), the choir mounts the tower and sings a hymn, which is
+part of the college grace; in the eighteenth century, however, the
+music was of a secular nature and lasted two hours. The ceremony has
+been made the subject of a great picture by Holman Hunt, and has been
+celebrated in many poems; the sonnet of Sir Herbert Warren, the
+present President, may be quoted as worthily expressing something of
+what has been felt by many generations of Magdalen men:
+
+    "Morn of the year, of day and May the prime,
+     How fitly do we scale the steep dark stair,
+     Into the brightness of the matin air,
+     To praise with chanted hymn and echoing chime,
+     Dear Lord of Light, thy  sublime,
+     That stooped erewhile our life's frail weeds to wear!
+     Sun, cloud and hill, all things thou fam'st so fair,
+     With us are glad and gay, greeting the time.
+     The College of the Lily leaves her sleep,
+     The grey tower rocks and trembles into sound,
+     Dawn-smitten Memnon of a happier hour;
+     Through faint-hued fields the silver waters creep:
+     Day grows, birds pipe, and robed anew and crowned,
+     Green Spring trips forth to set the world aflower."
+
+The tower was put to a far different use when, in the Civil War, it
+was the fortress against an attack from the east, and stones were
+piled on its top to overwhelm any invader who might force the bridge.
+
+Tradition connects this tower with the name of Magdalen's greatest
+son, Thomas Wolsey, who took his B.A. about 1486, at the age of
+fifteen, as he himself in his old age proudly told his servant and
+biographer, Cavendish. Certainty he was first Junior and then Senior
+Bursar for a time, while the tower was building, 1492-1504. But the
+scandal that he had to resign his bursarship for misappropriation of
+funds in connection with the tower may certainly be rejected.
+
+On the right of Magdalen Bridge, looking at the tower, as we see it
+in the picture, stretches Magdalen Meadow, round which run the famous
+water walks. The part of these on the north-west side is especially
+connected with Joseph Addison, who was a fellow at Magdalen from 1697
+to 1711. He was elected "demy" (at Magdalen, scholars bear this name)
+the first year (1689) after the Revolution, when the fellows of
+Magdalen had been restored to their rights, so outrageously invaded
+by King James. This "golden" election was famous in Magdalen annals,
+at once for the number elected--seventeen--and for the fame of some
+of those elected. Besides the greatest of English essayists, there
+were among the new "demies," a future archbishop, a future bishop,
+and the high Tory, Henry Sacheverell, whose fiery but unbalanced
+eloquence overthrew the great Whig Ministry, which had been the
+patron of his college contemporary.
+
+Magdalen Meadow preserves still the well-beloved Oxford fritillaries,
+which are in danger of being extirpated in the fields below Iffley by
+the crowds who gather them to sell in the Oxford market.
+
+Of the part of the College on the High Street, the most interesting
+portion is the old stone pulpit (shown in Plate XIV). The connection
+of this with the old Hospital of St. John is still marked by the
+custom of having the University sermon here on St. John the Baptist's
+Day; this was the invariable rule till the eighteenth century, and
+the pulpit (Hearne says) was "all beset with boughs, by way of
+allusion to St. John Baptist's preaching in the wilderness." Even as
+early as Heame's time, however, a wet morning drove preacher and
+audience into the chapel, and open-air sermons were soon given up
+altogether, only to be revived (weather permitting) in our own day.
+ The chapel lies to the left of the pulpit, and is known all the
+world over for its music; there are three famous choirs in Oxford--
+those of the Cathedral, of New College, and of Magdalen, and to the
+last, as a rule, the palm is assigned. It is to Oxford what the choir
+of King's is to Cambridge; but the chapel of Magdalen has not
+
+    "The high embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof,
+     And storied windows richly dight,
+     Casting a dim religious light"
+
+of the "Royal Saint's" great chapel at Cambridge.
+
+
+
+
+MAGDALEN COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+    "Sing sweetly, blessed babes that suck the breast
+     Of this sweet nectar-dropping Magdalen,
+     Their praise in holy hymns, by whom ye feast,
+     The God of gods and Waynflete, best of men,
+     Sing in an union with the Angel's quires,
+     Sith Heaven's your house."
+                                        SIR J. DAVIES.
+
+Magdalen College was founded by William of Waynflete, Bishop of
+Winchester, who had been a faithful minister of Henry VI. He had
+served as both Master and Provost of the King's own college at Eton
+(and also as Master of Winchester College before), and from Eton he
+brought the lilies which still figure in the Magdalen shield. As a
+member of the Lancastrian party, he fell into disgrace when the
+Yorkists triumphed, but he made his peace with Edward IV, whose
+statue stands over the west door of the chapel, with those of St.
+Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, St. Swithun (Bishop of
+Winchester), and the Founder. And the Tudors were equally friendly to
+the new foundation; Prince Arthur, Henry VIII's unfortunate elder
+brother, was a resident in Magdalen on two occasions, and the College
+has still a splendid memorial of him in the great contemporary
+tapestry, representing his marriage with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+To the very early days of Magdalen belongs its connection with the
+Oxford Reform Movement and the Revival of Learning. Both Fox and
+Wolsey, successively Bishops of Winchester, and the munificent
+founders of Corpus and of Cardinal (i.e. Christ Church) Colleges,
+were members of Waynflete's foundation, and so probably was John
+Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, whose learning and piety so impressed
+Erasmus. "When I listen to my beloved Colet," he writes in 1499, "I
+seem to be listening to Plato himself"; and he asks--why go to Italy
+when Oxford can supply a climate "as charming as it is healthful" and
+"such culture and learning, deep, exact and worthy of the good old
+times ?" Erasmus' praise of Oxford climate is unusual from a
+foreigner; the more usual view is that of his friend Vives, who came
+to Oxford soon after as a lecturer at the new college of Corpus
+Christi; he writes from Oxford: "The weather here is windy, foggy and
+damp, and gave me a rough reception."
+
+Colet's lectures on the Epistle to the Romans, perhaps delivered in
+Magdalen College, marked an epoch in the way of the interpretation of
+Holy Scripture, by their freedom from traditional methods and by
+their endeavour to employ the best of the New Learning in determining
+the real meaning of the Apostle. To the same school as Colet in the
+Church belonged Reginald Pole, Archbishop in the gloomy days of Queen
+Mary, the only Magdalen man who has held the See of Canterbury.
+
+Elizabeth visited the College, and gently rebuked the Puritan
+tendencies of the then President, Dr. Humphrey, who carried his
+scruples so far as to object to the academical scarlet he had to wear
+as a Doctor of Divinity, because it savoured of the "Scarlet Woman."
+"Dr. Humphrey," said the queen, with the tact alike of a Tudor
+sovereign and of a true woman, "methinks this gown and habit become
+you very well, and I marvel that you are so strait-laced on this
+point--but I come not now to chide." This President complained that
+his headship was "more payneful than gayneful," a charge not usually
+brought against headships at Oxford.
+
+In the seventeenth century, Magdalen was, for a short time, the very
+centre of England's interest. James II, in his desire to force Roman
+Catholicism on Oxford, tried to fill the vacant Presidency with one
+of his co-religionists. His first nominee was not only disqualified
+under the statutes, but was also a man of so notoriously bad a
+character that even the king had to drop him. Meanwhile, the fellows,
+having waited, in order to oblige James, till the last possible
+moment allowed by the statutes, filled up the vacancy by electing one
+of their own number, John Hough. When the king pronounced this
+election irregular and demanded the removal of the President and the
+acceptance of his second nominee, the fellows declared themselves
+unable thus to violate their statutes, even at royal command, and
+were accordingly driven out. The "demies," who were offered
+nominations to the fellowships thus rendered vacant, supported their
+seniors, and, in their turn, too, were driven out; they had showed
+their contempt for James' intruded fellows by "cocking their hats" at
+them, and by drinking confusion to the Pope. When the landing of
+William of Orange was threatening, James revoked all these arbitrary
+proceedings, but it was too late; he had brought home, by a striking
+example, to Oxford and to England, that no amount of past services,
+no worthiness of character, no statutes, however clear and binding,
+were to weigh for a moment with a royal bigot, who claimed the power
+to "dispense" with any statutes. The "Restoration" of the Fellows on
+October 25, 1688, is still celebrated by a College Gaudy, when the
+toast for the evening is /jus suum cuique/.
+
+Hough remained President for thirteen years, during most of which
+time he was bishop--first of Oxford and then of Lichfield. He finally
+was translated to Worcester, where he died at the age of ninety-
+three, after declining the Archbishopric of Canterbury. His monument,
+in his cathedral, records his famous resistance to arbitrary
+authority.
+
+Magdalen in the eighteenth century has an unenviable reputation,
+owing to the memoirs of its most famous historian, Edward Gibbon, who
+matriculated, in 1752, and who describes the fourteen months which
+elapsed before he was expelled for becoming a Roman Catholic, "as the
+most idle and unprofitable of my whole life." The "Monks of
+Magdalen," as he calls the fellows, "decent, easy men," "supinely
+enjoyed the gifts of the founder." It should be added that Gibbon was
+not quite fifteen when he entered the College, and that his picture
+of it is no doubt coloured by personal bitterness. But its
+substantial justice is admitted. Certainly, nothing could be feebler
+than the /Vindication of Magdalen College/, published by a fellow
+James Hurdis, the Professor of Poetry; his intellectual calibre may
+perhaps be gauged from the exquisite silliness of his poem, "The
+Village Curate," of which the following lines, addressed to the
+Oxford heads of houses, are a fair specimen:
+
+                              "Ye profound
+    And serious heads, who guard the twin retreats
+    Of British learning, give the studious boy
+    His due indulgence. Let him range the field,
+    Frequent the public walk, and freely pull
+    The yielding oar. But mark the truant well,
+    And if he turn aside to vice or folly,
+    Show him the rod, and let him feel you prize
+    The parent's happiness, the public good."
+
+Magdalen might fairly claim that a place so beautiful as it is,
+justifies itself by simply existing, and the perfection of its
+buildings and the beauty of its music must appeal, even to our own
+utilitarian age. But it has many other justifications besides its
+beauty; its great wealth is being continually applied to assist the
+University by the endowment of new professorships, especially for the
+Natural Sciences, and to aid real students, whether those who have
+made, or those who are likely to make, a reputation as researchers.
+It is needless to mention names: every Oxford man and every lover of
+British learning knows them.
+
+ [Plate XIV. Magdalen College : The Open-Air Pulpit]
+
+For the world in general, which cares not for research, the success
+of the College under its present President, Sir Herbert Warren,
+himself at once a poet and an Oxford Professor of Poetry, will be
+evidenced by its increase in numbers and by its athletic successes.
+They will judge as our King judged when he chose Magdalen for the
+academic home of the Prince of Wales. The Prince, unlike other royal
+persons at Magdalen and elsewhere, lived (1912-14) not in the
+lodgings of the President, or among dons and professors, but in his
+own set of rooms, like any ordinary undergraduate. He showed, in
+Oxford, that power of self-adaptation which has since won him golden
+opinions in the great Dominion and the greater Republic of the West.
+
+
+
+
+BRASENOSE COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Of the colleges of Oxford, Exeter is the most
+     proper for western, Queen's for northern, and
+     Brasenose for north-western men."
+                                FULLER, /Worthies/.
+
+ [Plate XV. Bresenose College, Quadrangle and Radcliffe Library]
+
+Brasenose college is in the very centre of the University, fronting
+as it does on Radcliffe Square, where Gibbs' beautiful dome supplies
+the Bodleian with a splendid reading-room. And this site has always
+been consecrated to students; where the front of Brasenose now stands
+ran School Street, leading from the old /Scholae Publicae/, in which
+the disputations of the Mediaeval University were held, to St. Mary's
+Church.
+
+It was from this neighbourhood that some Oxford scholars migrated to
+Stamford in 1334, in order to escape one of the many Town and Gown
+rows, which rendered Mediaeval Oxford anything but a place of quiet
+academic study. They seem to have carried with them the emblem of
+their hall, a fine sanctuary knocker of brass, representing a lion's
+head, with a ring through its nose; this knocker was installed at a
+house in Stamford, which still retains the name it gave, "Brasenose
+Hall." The knocker itself was there till 1890, when the College
+recovered the relic (it now hangs in the hall). The students were
+compelled by threats of excommunication to return to their old
+university, and down to the beginning of the nineteenth century,
+Oxford men, when admitted to the degree of M.A., were compelled to
+swear "not to lecture at Stamford."
+
+The old "King's Hall," which bore the name of "Brasenose," was
+transformed into a college in 1511 by the munificence of our first
+lay founder, Sir Richard Sutton; he shared his benevolence, however,
+with Bishop Smith, of Lincoln. The College celebrated, in 1911, its
+quatercentenary in an appropriate way, by publishing its register in
+full, with a group of most interesting monographs on various aspects
+of the College history.
+
+The buildings are a good example of the typical Oxford college; the
+Front Quad, shown in our picture, belongs to the time of the
+Founders, but the picturesque third story of dormer windows, which
+give it a special charm, dates from the reign of James I, when all
+colleges were rapidly increasing their numbers and their
+accommodation. Of the rest of the buildings of Brasenose, the chapel
+deserves special notice, for it was the last effort of the Gothic
+style in Oxford, and it was actually finished in the days of
+Cromwell, not a period likely to be favourable to the erection of new
+college chapels.
+
+Brasenose (or B.N.C., as it is universally called) has produced a
+prime minister of England in Henry Addington, whom the college record
+kindly describes as "not the most distinguished" statesman who has
+held that position: but a much better known worthy is John Foxe, the
+Martyrologist, whose chained works used to add a grim charm of horror
+to so many parish churches in England; the experiences of the young
+Macaulay, at Cheddar, are an example which could be paralleled by
+those of countless young readers of Foxe, who, however, did not
+become great historians and are forgotten. Somewhat junior to Foxe,
+at B.N.C., was Robert Burton, the author of the /Anatomy of
+Melancholy/, who found both his lifework as a parish vicar, and his
+burial-place in Oxford.
+
+But these names, and the names of many other B.N.C. worthies, hardly
+attain to the first rank in the annals of England's life. The
+distinguishing features of the College have long been its special
+connection with the Palatine counties, Lancashire and Cheshire, and
+its prominence in the athletic life which is so large a part of
+Oxford's attraction. To the connection with Lancashire, B.N.C. owes
+the name of its college boat, "The Child of Hale"; for John
+Middleton, the famous, giant, who is said to have been 9 ft. 3 in.
+high (perhaps measurements were loose when James I was king), was
+invited by the members of his county to visit the College, where he
+is said to have left a picture of his hand; this the ever curious
+Pepys paid 2s. to see. A more profitable connection between
+Lancashire and B.N.C. is the famous Hulmeian endowment, which is
+almost a record instance of the value of the unearned increment of
+land to a learned foundation.
+
+The rowing men of Brasenose are as famous as the scholars of Balliol.
+The poet parodist, half a century ago, described her as:
+
+    "Queen of the Isis wave,
+     Who trains her crews on beef and beer,
+     Competitors to brave,"
+
+and the lines written in jest were a true compliment. The young
+manhood of England had maintained its vigour by its love of
+athletics, and has learned, in the discipline of the athletic club,
+how to obey and also how to command. Hence it was fitting that to
+B.N.C. should fall the honour of giving to Britain her greatest
+soldier in the Great War; Lord Haig of Bemerside was an undergraduate
+member of the College in the 'eighties of the last century, and the
+College has honoured him and itself by making him an Honorary Fellow.
+
+Most Oxford colleges have their quaint and distinctive customs; that
+of Brasenose was certainly not inappropriate to the character that
+has just been sketched. Every Shrove Tuesday some junior member of
+the College presented verses to the butler in honour of Brasenose
+ale, and received a draught in return. The custom is recorded by
+Hearne more than two hundred years ago, and may well be older,
+though, as the poet of the Quatercentenary sadly confessed, its
+attribution to King Alfred--
+
+    "Our woven fantasy of Alfred's ale,
+     By conclusive cut of critic dry,
+     Is shredded clean away."
+
+The most distinguished poet who thus commemorated the special drink
+of England and of B.N.C. was Reginald Heber, bishop and hymn-writer,
+who composed the verses in 1806; the compositions have been collected
+and published at least three times. When the old brew-house was
+pulled down to make room for the New Quad, the College gave up
+brewing its own beer, and its poets ceased to celebrate it; but the
+custom was revived, as has been said, in 1909. It may be permitted to
+a non-Brasenose man to quote and echo the patriotic expressions of
+the versifier of 1886:
+
+    "Shall Brasenose, therefore, fail to hold her own?
+     She nerves herself, anew, for coming strife,
+     Her vigorous pulses beat with strength and life.
+     Courage, my brothers! Troubles past forget!
+     On to fresh deeds! the gods love Brasenose yet."
+
+
+
+
+CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE
+
+
+    "But still the old quadrangle keeps the same,
+       The pelican is here;
+     Ancestral genius of the place, whose name
+       All Corpus men revere."
+              J. J. C., in "/The Pelican Record/," 1700.
+
+ [Plate XVI. Corpus Christi College : The First Quadrangle]
+
+Corpus is emphatically, before all other colleges in Oxford, the
+college of the Revival of Learning; its very foundation marked the
+change from the old order of things to the new. Its Founder, Bishop
+Foxe, of Winchester, was one of the great statesman-prelates to whom
+mediaeval England owed so much, and he had a leading share in
+arranging the two royal marriages which so profoundly affected the
+history of our country, that of Henry VII's daughter, Margaret, with
+the King of Scotland, and that of his son, afterwards Henry VIII,
+with Catharine of Aragon.
+
+After a life spent "in the service of God" "in the State," rather
+than "in the Church," Foxe resolved to devote some of his great
+wealth to a foundation for the strengthening of the Church. His first
+intention was to found a college for monks, but, fortunately for his
+memory and for Oxford, he followed the advice of his friend, Bishop
+Oldham, of Exeter, who told him, in words truly prophetic, that the
+days of monasteries were past: "What, my lord, shall we build housed
+for a company of buzzing monks, whose end and fall we ourselves may
+live to see? No, no, it is more meet a great deal that we should have
+care to provide for the increase of learning." In the next generation
+the monasteries were all swept away, while Foxe's College remains a
+monument of the Founder's pious liberality and of his friend's wise
+prescience.
+
+Corpus was the first institution in England where definite provision
+was made for a teacher of the Greek Language, and Erasmus hailed it
+with enthusiasm; in a letter to the first President of the new
+college, he definitely contrasts the conciliatory methods of
+Reformers in England with the more violent methods of those in
+Germany, and counts Foxe's foundation, which he compares to the
+Pyramids of Egypt or the Colossus of Rhodes, among "the chief glories
+of Britain."
+
+Foxe, however, did not confine his benefactions to classical studies,
+important as these were. He imported a German to teach his scholars
+mathematics, and the scientific tastes of his students are well
+illustrated by the picturesque and curious dial, still in the centre
+of his College Quad, which was constructed by one of them in the
+reign of Elizabeth. It is well shown in our picture, as are also
+Foxe's charming low buildings, almost unaltered since the time of
+their Founder.
+
+But it has been on the humanistic, rather than on the scientific,
+side that Corpus men have specially distinguished themselves. The
+first century of the College existence produced the two great
+Elizabethan champions of Anglicanism. Bishop Jewel, whose "Apology"
+was for a long period the great bulwark of the English Church against
+Jesuit attacks, had laid the foundations of his great learning in the
+Corpus Library, still--after that of Merton--the most picturesque in
+Oxford; he often spent whole days there, beginning an hour before
+Early Mass, i.e. at 4 a.m., and continuing his reading till 10 p.m.
+"There were giants on the earth in those days." Even more famous is
+the "judicious Hooker," who resided in the college for sixteen years,
+and only left it when, by the wiles of a woman, he, "like a true
+Nathanael who feared no guile" (as his biographer, Isaac Walton,
+writes), was entrapped into a marriage which "brought him neither
+beauty nor fortune." The first editor of his great work, /The
+Ecclesiastical Polity/, was a Corpus man, and it was only fitting
+that the Anglican Revival of the nineteenth century should receive
+its first impulse from the famous Assize Sermon (in 1833) of another
+Corpus scholar, John Keble.
+
+Corpus has been singularly fortunate in its history, no doubt because
+its Presidents have been so frequently men of mark for learning and
+for character. Even in the dark period of the eighteenth century it
+recovered sooner than the rest of the University, and one of its sons
+records complacently that "scarcely a day passed without my having
+added to my stock of knowledge some new fact or idea." A charming
+picture of the life of the scholars of Corpus at the beginning of the
+last century is given in Stanley's /Life of Arnold/; for the famous
+reformer of the English public-school system was at the College
+immediately after John Keble, whom he followed as fellow to Oriel, on
+the other side of the road. It need hardly be added that in those
+days an Oriel Fellowship was the crown of intellectual distinction in
+Oxford.
+
+Bishop Foxe had set up his college as a "ladder" by which, "with one
+side of it virtue and the other knowledge," men might, while they
+"are strangers and pilgrims in this unhappy and dying world," "mount
+more easily to heaven." Changing his metaphor he goes on, "We have
+founded and raised up in the University of Oxford a hive wherein
+scholars, like intelligent bees, may, night and day, build up wax to
+the glory of God, and gather honeyed sweets for their own profit and
+that of all Christian men." So far as it is given to human
+institutions to succeed, his college has fulfilled his aims.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (1) THE CATHEDRAL
+
+
+ [Plate XVII. Christ Church : The Cathedral from the Meadows]
+
+
+    "Those voiceless towers so tranquil seem,
+     And yet so solemn in their might,
+     A loving heart could almost deem
+     That they themselves might conscious be
+     That they were filled with immortality."
+                                   F. W. FABER.
+
+The east end of Oxford Cathedral, shown both in the frontispiece
+(Plate I) and Plate XVII, probably contains the oldest buildings,
+above ground, in Oxford. Inside the cathedral can clearly be seen
+traces of three round arches, which may well be part of the church
+founded by St. Frideswyde in the eighth century. That princess,
+according to the tradition, the details of which are all pictured by
+Burne-Jones in the east window of the Latin Chapel, having escaped by
+a miracle the advances of too ardent a suitor, founded a nunnery at
+Oxford. The nunnery, which was later transferred to Canons, was
+undoubtedly the earliest institution in Oxford, and in its cloisters,
+in the second decade of the twelfth century, we hear of students
+gathering for instruction. It was this old monastery, which Wolsey,
+with his reforming zeal, chose as the site of his great Cardinal
+College, and the chapel of the old foundation was to serve for his
+new one, until such time as a great new chapel, rivalling in
+splendour that of King's College at Cambridge, had been built on the
+north side of Tom Quad. This new chapel never got beyond the stage of
+foundations; and hence the old building has continued to serve the
+college till this day, having been made also the cathedral of the new
+diocese of Oxford, which was founded by King Henry VIII. Wolsey may,
+perhaps, be credited with the fine fan tracery of the choir roof, but
+he certainly swept away three bays of the nave in order to carry out
+his ambitious building plans, and only one of these three bays has
+been restored in the nineteenth century.
+
+Wolsey's action at Christ Church was significant. Men felt that the
+days of monasteries were past, and the Church was ready to welcome
+and to extend the New Learning. But his changes were a dangerous
+precedent; as Fuller says with his usual quaintness: "All the forest
+of religious foundations in England did shake, justly fearing the
+King would finish to fell the oaks, seeing the Cardinal began to cut
+the underwood." Henry, however, when he swept away the monasteries,
+spared his great minister's work; modifying it, however, as has just
+been said, by associating the newly-founded college with the diocese
+of Oxford, now formed out of the unwieldy See of Lincoln.
+
+The cathedral is the smallest in England, but contains many features
+of special interest; its most marked peculiarity is the great breadth
+of the choir, due to the addition of two aisles on the north side;
+these were built to gain more room for the worshippers at the shrine
+of St. Frideswyde. Another feature of architectural interest is the
+spire, which is one of the earliest in England. But perhaps even more
+interesting is the wonderful series of glass windows, which give good
+examples of almost every English style from the fourteenth to the
+nineteenth century. And for once the moderns can hold their own; the
+Burne-Jones windows of the choir (not, however, the Frideswyde
+window, already mentioned) are particularly beautiful.
+
+The hand of the "restorer" has been active at Christ Church, as
+elsewhere in Oxford; Gilbert Scott took on himself to remove a fine
+fourteenth-century window from the east end of the choir, and to
+substitute the Norman work shown in Plate I. The effect is admittedly
+good, but it may be questioned whether it be right to falsify
+architectural history in this way.
+
+Oxford Cathedral has great associations apart from the college to
+which it belongs. It was to it that Cranmer was brought to receive
+the Pope's sentence of condemnation, and in the cloisters the
+ceremony of his degradation from the archbishopric was carried out.
+Almost a century later the Cathedral was the centre of the religious
+life of the Royalist party; when Charles I made his capital in Oxford
+and his home in Christ Church, and when the Cavaliers fought to the
+war-cry of "Church and King." It is not surprising that, when the
+Parliamentarians entered Oxford, the windows of the Cathedral were
+much "abused"; that so much old glass was spared was probably due to
+the local patriotism of old Oxford men.
+
+In the next century it was to Christ Church that Bishop Berkeley, the
+greatest of British philosophers, retired to end his days, and to
+find a burial-place; and, during the long life of Dr. Pusey, the
+Cathedral of Oxford was a place of pilgrimage, as the living centre
+of the Oxford movement.
+
+In the back of the picture (Plate XVII), behind the Cathedral, rises
+the square tower, put up by Mr. Bodley to contain the famous Christ
+Church peal of bells (now twelve in number), familiar through Dean
+Aldrich's famous round, "Hark, the bonny Christ Church bells." When
+the tower was erected, it was the subject of much criticism,
+especially from the witty pen of C. L. Dodgson, the world-famous
+creator of /Alice in Wonderland/. The opening paragraph is a fair
+specimen:
+    "Of the etymological significance of the new belfry, Christ
+Church.
+    "The word 'belfry' is derived from the French '/bel/-- beautiful,
+meet,' and from the German '/frei/--free, unfettered, safe.' Thus the
+word is strictly equivalent to 'meat-safe,' to which the new belfry
+bears a resemblance so perfect as almost to amount to coincidence."
+
+Others saw in the uncompromising squareness of the new tower a subtle
+compliment to the Greek lexicon of Liddell, who then was Dean. But in
+spite of the wits, who resented any innovation in so famous a group
+of buildings, Bodley's tower is a fine one, and really enhances the
+effect of Tom Quad.
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (2) THE HALL STAIRCASE
+
+
+    "And love the high-embowed roof
+     With antique pillars massy proof."
+                                MILTON
+
+ [Plate XVIII. Christ Church : The Hall Staircase]
+
+When Wolsey began to build what he intended to be the most splendid
+college in the world, the first part to be finished was the dining-
+hall, with the kitchen. The wits of the time made very merry at this:
+their epigram /Egregium opus! Cardinalis iste instituit collegium et
+absolvit popinam/ may be rendered:
+
+    "Here's a fine piece of work! Your Cardinal
+     A college plans, completes a guzzling-hall."
+
+Certainly the hall of Christ Church is the finest "popina" which has
+ever been abused by envious critics; its size and magnificence place
+it easily first among the halls of Oxford, and its great outline
+stands conspicuous in all views of Oxford from the south, whether by
+day, or when by night, to quote M. Arnold's "Thyrsis":
+
+     "The line of festal light in Christ Church Hall"
+
+shines afar. And the kitchen, a perfect cube in shape, is worthy of
+the hall which it feeds, and is, perhaps, more appreciated by many of
+Oxford's visitors; for the taste for meringues is more common than
+that for masterpieces of portraiture. The report to Wolsey, in 1526,
+by his agent, the Warden of New College, is still true; the kitchen
+is "substantially and goodly done, in such manner as no two of the
+best colleges in Oxford have rooms so goodly and convenient."
+
+The approach to the hall, seen in Plate XVIII, is later than Wolsey's
+work, but is fully worthy of him. The beautiful fan tracery, which
+hardly suffers by being compared with Henry VII's Chapel at
+Westminster, was put up, extraordinary as it may seem, in the middle
+of the seventeenth century, by the elder Dean Fell; all we know of
+its origin is that it was the work of "Smith, an artificer of
+London," surely the most modest architect who ever designed a
+masterpiece. The staircase itself is later, the work of the notorious
+Wyatt, who for once meddled with a great building without spoiling
+it.
+
+The history of Christ Church is very largely the history of the
+University of Oxford. It is still our wealthiest and largest
+foundation, although the disproportion between it and other colleges
+is by no means so great as it once was; and, thanks to its having
+been ruled by a series of famous and energetic deans, its periods of
+inglorious inactivity have been fewer than those of most other
+colleges. The roll of deans contains such names as those of John
+Owen, the most famous of Puritan preachers, John Fell, theologian and
+founder of the greatness of the Oxford Press, Henry Aldrich,
+universally accomplished as scholar, logician, musician, architect,
+Francis Atterbury, Jacobite and plotter, Cyril Jackson, who ruled
+Christ Church with a rod of iron, and who ranks first among the
+creators of nineteenth-century Oxford, Thomas Gaisford and Henry
+George Liddell, great Greek scholars. It seems that a college gains
+something by having its head appointed from outside; the Dean at
+Christ Church is appointed by the Crown.
+
+The importance of Christ Church is especially seen in its hall,
+through its collection of portraits. It is not only that this is
+superior to that of any one other college; it may well be doubted if
+the combined efforts of all the colleges could produce a collection
+equal to that of Christ Church in artistic merit, or superior to it
+in historical importance. The prime ministers of England, of whom
+Christ Church claims twelve (nine of them in the last century), are
+represented among others by George Grenville, the unfortunate author
+of the Stamp Act, George Canning, who called "the New World into
+existence to redress the balance of the Old," and W. E. Gladstone;
+among the eight Christ Church men who have been Governor-Generals of
+India, the Marquess Wellesley stands out pre-eminent; Christ Church
+has sent five archbishops to Canterbury and nine to York; there is a
+portrait in the hall of Wake, the most famous of the holders of the
+See of Canterbury. Lord Mansfield's picture worthily represents the
+learning and impartiality of the English Bench. But even more
+interesting than any of those already mentioned are the portraits of
+John Locke, who was philosopher enough to forgive Christ Church for
+obeying James II and expelling him, of William Penn, presented, as
+was fitting, by the American state that bears his name, of John
+Wesley and of Dr. Pusey, whose names will be for ever associated with
+the two greatest of Oxford's religious movements. And it may well be
+hoped that C. L. Dodgson ("Lewis Carroll") will delight children for
+many generations to come, as he has delighted those of the last half-
+century, by his Alice and her "Adventures."
+
+An interest, rather historical than personal, attaches to the group
+portrait that occupies a position of honour over the fireplace; it
+represents the three Oxford divines--John Fell (already mentioned),
+Dolben, who later was Archbishop of York, and Allestree, afterwards
+Provost of Eton, who braved the penal law against churchmen by
+reading the forbidden Church Service daily all through the time of
+the Commonwealth.
+
+Nowhere, so much as in Christ Church, is the poet's description of
+Oxford appropriate; her students may:
+
+    "Stand, in many an ancient hall,
+     Where England's greatest deck the wall,
+     Prelate and Statesman, prince and poet;
+     Who hath an ear, let him hear them call."
+
+
+ [Plate XIX. Christ Church : The Hall Interior]
+
+
+
+
+CHRIST CHURCH (3) "TOM" TOWER
+
+
+    "Those twins of learning, which he raised in you,
+     Ipswich and Oxford, one of which fell with him;
+     The other, though unfinished, yet so famous,
+     So excellent in art, and still so rising,
+     That Christendom shall ever speak his virtue."
+                       SHAKESPEARE, /Henry VIII/.
+
+Oxford is described by Matthew Amold as,
+
+    "Beautiful city, with her dreaming spires,"
+
+yet it is for her towers, especially, that she is famous. Glorious as
+St. Mary's is, it certainly does not surpass Magdalen Tower; and it
+may well be doubted whether the genius of Wren has not excelled both
+Magdalen and St. Mary's in "Tom" Tower. Gothic purists, of course, do
+not like it. There is a well-authenticated story of a really great
+architect who, in the early days of the twentieth century, was asked
+to submit a scheme for its repair; after long delay he sent in a plan
+for an entirely new tower on correct Gothic lines, because (as he
+wrote) no one would wish to preserve "so anomalous a structure" as
+Tom Tower. The world, however, does not agree with the minute
+critics; it is easy to find fault with the details of "Tom," but in
+proportion, in dignity, in suitability to his position, the greatest
+qualities that can be required in any building, "Tom" is pre-eminent.
+This is the more to be wondered at, as the tower was erected a
+century and a half after the great gateway which it crowns.
+
+The genius of Wolsey had planned a magnificent front, but only a
+little more than half of it was completed when Henry VIII ended the
+career of his greatest servant, and altered the plans of the most
+glorious college in Europe. It was not till the period just before
+the Civil War that the northern part of the front of Christ Church
+was built by the elder Dean Fell, and the work was only completed
+when his son, the famous Dr. Fell, doomed to eternal notoriety by the
+well-known rhymes about his mysterious unpopularity, employed Wren to
+build the gate tower. Yet the whole presents one harmonious design,
+worthy of the most famous of Oxford founders and of the greatest of
+British architects. It is fitting that it should be Wolsey's statue
+which adorns the gate--a statue given by stout old Jonathan Trelawny,
+one of the Seven Bishops, whose name is perpetuated by the refrain of
+Hawker's spirited ballad, which deceived even Macaulay as to its
+authenticity:
+
+
+    "And must Trelawny die?
+     Then thirty thousand Cornish men
+     Will know the reason why."
+
+ Tom Tower appeals to Oxford men through more than one of their
+senses; it is a most conspicuous object in every view; and in it is
+hung the famous bell, "Great Tom," the fourth largest bell in
+England, weighing over seven tons. This once belonged to Osney Abbey,
+when it was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, and bore the
+legend:
+
+    "In Thomae laude resono Bim Bom sine fraude."
+
+It was transplanted to Christ Church in the reign of Queen Mary, and
+at the time it was proposed to rechristen it "Pulcra Maria," in
+honour at once of the Queen and of the Blessed Virgin; but the old
+name prevailed. Every night but one, from May 29, 1684, until the
+Great War silenced him, Tom has sounded out, after 9 p.m., his 101
+strokes, as a signal that all should be within their college walls;
+the number is the number of the members of the foundation of Christ
+Church in 1684, when the tower was finished. During the war Tom was
+forbidden to sound, along with all other Oxford bells and clocks, for
+might not his mighty voice have guided some zeppelin or German
+aeroplane to pour down destruction on Oxford? Few things brought home
+more to Oxford the meaning of the Armistice than hearing Tom once
+more on the night of November 11, 1918.
+
+ [Plate XX. Christ Church: "Tom" Tower]
+
+A patriotic tradition claims for Tom the honour of having inspired
+Milton's lines in "Il Penseroso":
+
+    "Hear the far-off curfew sound
+     Over some wide-watered, shore,
+     Swinging slow with sullen roar."
+
+But it is difficult to believe this; Milton's connection with Oxford
+does not get nearer than Forest Hill, and blow the west wind as hard
+as it would, it could scarcely make Tom's voice reach so far. And the
+"wide-watered shore" is only appropriate to Oxford in flood time, the
+very last season when a poet would wish to remember it.
+
+The view in Plate XX of the tower is taken from the front of
+Pembroke, and must have been often admired by Oxford's devoted son,
+Samuel Johnson, when, as a poor scholar of Pembroke, "he was
+generally to be seen (says his friend. Bishop Percy) lounging at the
+college gate, with a circle of young students round him, whom he was
+entertaining with his wit and keeping from their studies."
+
+
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE
+
+
+ [Plate XXI. St. John's College : Garden Front]
+
+    "An English home--gray twilight poured
+       On dewy pastures, dewy trees,
+     Softer than sleep, all things in order stored,
+       The haunt of ancient Peace."
+                          TENNYSON, Palace of Art.
+
+St. John's shares with Trinity and Hertford the distinction of having
+been twice founded. As the Cistercian College of St. Bernard, it owed
+its origin to Archbishop Chichele, the founder of All Souls', and it
+continued to exist for a century as a monastic institution. At the
+Reformation it was swept away with other monastic foundations by the
+greed of Henry VIII, but it was almost immediately refounded, in the
+reign of Mary, by Sir Thomas White, one of the greatest of London's
+Lord Mayors. In all these respects it has an exact parallel in
+Trinity, which had existed as a Benedictine foundation, being then
+called "Durham College," and which was refounded, in the same dark
+period of English History, by another eminent Londoner, Sir Thomas
+Pope. It is characteristic of England and of the English Reformation
+that men, who were undoubtedly in sympathy with the old form of the
+Faith, yet gave their wealth and their labours to found institutions
+which were to serve English religion and English learning under the
+new order of things.
+
+For the first generation after the Founder, St. John's was torn by
+the quarrels between those who wished to undo the work of the
+Reformation altogether, and those who wished to carry it further and
+to destroy the continuity of English Church tradition. The final
+triumph of the Anglican "Via Media" was the work, above all others,
+of William Laud, who came up as scholar to St. John's in 1590, and
+who, for most of the half century that followed, was the predominant
+influence in the life of the University. First in his own college and
+then in Oxford generally, he secured the triumph of his views on
+religious doctrine and order. Of these, it is not the place to speak
+here, nor yet of Laud's services to Oxford as the restorer of
+discipline, the endower and encourager of learning, the organizer of
+academic life, whose statutes were to govern Oxford for more than two
+centuries; but it is indisputable that Laud takes one of the highest
+places on the roll of benefactors, both to the University as a whole
+and to his own college.
+
+It was fitting that one who did so much for St. John's should leave
+his mark on its buildings; the inner quadrangle was largely built by
+him, and it owes to him its most characteristic features, the two
+classic colonnades on its east and west sides, and the lovely garden
+front, one of the three most beautiful things in Oxford: the north-
+east corner of this is shown in Plate XXI.
+
+Laud's building work was done between 1631 and 1635, and in 1636
+Charles I and his Queen visited Oxford and were entertained in the
+newly-finished college. Much bad verse was written on this event, two
+lines of which as a specimen may be quoted from the quaintly-named
+poem, "Parnassus Biceps":
+
+    "Was I not blessed with Charles and Mary's name,
+     Names wherein dwells all music? 'Tis the same."
+
+The part of the entertainment to royalty on which the Archbishop
+specially prided himself was the play of The Hospital of Lovers,
+which was performed entirely by St. John's men, without "borrowing
+any one actor." Laud goes on to observe that, when the Queen borrowed
+the dresses and the scenery, and had it played over again by her
+players at Hampton Court, it was universally acknowledged that the
+professionals did not come up to the amateurs--a truly surprising and
+somewhat incredible verdict. St. John's, however, was always strong
+in dramatic ability; Shirley, the last great representative of the
+Elizabethan tradition, was a student there, and the library has the
+rare distinction of having possessed longest the same copy of the
+works of Shakespeare; it still has the second folio, presented in
+1638, by one of the fellows. St. John's connection with the lighter
+side of literature has lasted to our own day; the most famous of
+Oxford parodies is still the Oxford Spectator, which has not been
+surpassed by any of its many imitators in the last half century.
+
+Other colleges, however, might challenge the supremacy of St. John's
+in the humours of literature.. In the richness and beauty of its
+garden it stands unrivalled, whether quantity or quality be the basis
+of comparison. It is not only that before the east front, seen in
+Plate XXI, stretches the largest garden in Oxford; thanks to the
+skill and the care of the present garden-master, the Rev. H. J.
+Bidder, this shows from month to month, as the pageant of summer goes
+on, what wealth of colour and variety of bloom the English climate
+can produce. It may be said to be laid out on Bacon's rule: "There
+ought to be gardens for all months in the year, in which severally
+things of beauty may be then in season"; only for "year" we naturally
+must read "academic year." If Bacon is right, that a garden is the
+"purest of human pleasures," then, indeed, St. John's should be the
+Oxford paradise.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (1) THE BUILDINGS
+
+    "Here did Wren make himself a student home,
+       Or e'er he made a name that England loves;
+     I wonder if this straying shadow moves,
+       Adown the wall, as then he saw it roam."
+                                          A. UPSON.
+
+
+ [Plate XXII. Wadham College : The Chapel from the Garden]
+
+The buildings of Wadham College have been pronounced by some good
+judges to be the most beautiful in Oxford. This is not, however, the
+usual opinion, nor is it my own, though, perhaps, it might be
+accepted if modified into the statement that Wadham is the most
+complete and perfect example of the ordinary type of college. However
+that may be, there are three points as to these buildings which are
+indisputable, and which are also most interesting to any lover of
+English architecture. They are:
+    (1) Wadham is less altered than any other college in Oxford.
+    (2) It is the finest illustration of the fact that the Gothic
+        style survived in Oxford when it was being rapidly superseded
+        elsewhere.
+    (3) No building in Oxford (very few buildings anywhere) owe their
+        effect so completely to their simplicity and their absence of
+        adornment.
+
+These three points must be illustrated in detail.
+
+Wadham is the youngest college in Oxford, for all those that have
+been founded since are refoundations of older institutions (but, as
+its first stone was laid in 1610, it has a respectable antiquity);
+yet the Front Quad is completely unaltered in design, and of the
+actual stonework, hardly any has had to be renewed. Could the
+Foundress return to life, she would find the college, which was to
+her as a son, completely familiar.
+
+The second point is a more important one. In the reign of Elizabeth,
+classical architecture was being rapidly introduced; Gothic was
+giving way before the style of Palladio, even as the New Learning was
+banishing the schoolmen from the schools. This change is markedly
+seen in the Elizabethan buildings at Cambridge, especially in Dr.
+Caius' work, so far as it has been allowed to survive in the college
+that bears his name. But in Oxford the old style went on for half the
+following century; in the great building period of the first two
+Stuarts the old models were still faithfully copied. It was the
+genius of Wren, which, by its magnificent success in the Sheldonian,
+ultimately caused the new style to prevail over the late Gothic, of
+which his own college, Wadham, is so striking an example.
+
+In Wadham the conservative Oxford workmen were inspired by the
+presence of Somerset masons, whom the Foundress brought up from her
+own county, so rich in the splendid Gothic of the fifteenth century.
+Hence the chapel of Wadham (shown in Plate XXII) is to all intents
+and purposes the choir of a great Somerset church. So marked is the
+old style in its windows that some of the best authorities on
+architecture have maintained that the stonework of these could not
+have been made in the seventeenth century, but must have survived
+from some older building; Ferguson, the historian of architecture,
+when confronted with the fact that the college has still the detailed
+accounts showing how, week by week, the Jacobean masons worked, swept
+this evidence aside with the dictum--"No amount of documents could
+prove what was impossible." But here the "impossible" really
+happened.
+
+The permanence of Gothic in Oxford is a point for professional
+students; the studied simplicity, which is the great secret of
+Wadham's beauty, concerns everyone. The effect of the garden front is
+produced simply by the long lines of the string-courses and by the
+procession of the beautifully proportioned gables. Neither here nor
+in any part of the college is there a piece of carved work, except in
+the classical screen, which marks the entry to the hall. It may be
+noted that at Wadham and at Clare, Cambridge, the same effect is
+produced by the same means; different as the two colleges are, the
+one Gothic, the other classical, they have a restful and complete
+beauty which makes them specially attractive. And this is due more
+than anything else to the unbroken lines of the stonework, to which
+everything is kept in due subordination. Clare was building during
+half a century; Wadham was finished in three years; but both have
+been fortunate in being left alone; they have not been "improved" by
+later additions.
+
+The chapel at Wadham has another feature of great interest for those
+who visit it; the glass in it (not that in the ante-chapel) is all
+contemporary with the college, and is a first-rate example of the
+taste of early Stuart times. The apostles and the prophets of the
+side windows have few merits, except their age, and the fact that
+they illustrate what local craftsmen could do in the reign of James
+I; but the big east window is of a very different rank. The college
+authorities quarrelled with the local workmen, and introduced a
+foreign craftsman, Bernard van Ling from London. In our day he would
+have been called a "blackleg," and mobbed: perhaps, even in the
+seventeenth century, he needed protection, for the college built him
+a furnace in their garden, and he there produced the finest specimen
+of seventeenth century glass that Oxford can show. Even for those who
+are not students of glass, the Wadham windows are attractive with
+their two Jonahs and two whales, "The big one that swallowed Jonah,
+and the little one that Jonah swallowed" (to quote an old college
+jest).
+
+The gardens at Wadham are famous; they have not the magnificence of
+St. John's or the antiquarian charm of the old walls at New College
+or Merton; but, for the variety and fine growth of their trees, they
+are unsurpassed, though the glory of these is passing. Warden Wills
+planted them in the days of the French Revolution, and trees have
+their time to fall at last, even though they long survive their
+planters.
+
+
+
+
+WADHAM COLLEGE (2) HISTORY
+
+
+    "But these were merciful men, whose righteousness
+     hath not been forgotten. . . . Their bodies are buried
+     in peace; but their name liveth for evermore."
+                            /Ecclesiasticus/, xliv. 10, 14.
+
+The collection of pictures In Wadham Hall is probably the best of any
+college in Oxford--always, of course, excepting Christ Church. It has
+no single picture to be compared with the "Thomas Warton" at
+Trinity, or the "Dr. Johnson" at Pembroke (both excellent works of
+Reynolds), nor does it give so many fine examples of the work of
+recent artists as do Trinity or Balliol; but it makes up for these
+deficiencies by the number and the variety of its pictures.
+
+Two only of the men they represent can be said to attain to the first
+rank among England's worthies--Robert Blake, second as an admiral
+only to Nelson and Oxford's greatest fighting man until the present
+war, and Christopher Wren, "that prodigious young scholar" (as John
+Evelyn calls him), who, as has been well said, would have been second
+only to Newton among English mathematicians had he not chosen rather
+to be indisputably the first of British architects. It is interesting
+to note that Wadham shares with All Souls' two of the greatest names
+in the Scientific Revival of the seventeenth century: both Wren and
+Thomas Sydenham, the physician, migrated from Wadham to fellowships
+at All Souls'.
+
+Their connection with Wadham is part of what is probably the most
+interesting single episode in the college history. When the
+Parliament triumphed, and the King's partisans were turned out of
+Oxford, the Lodgings at Wadham were given to the most distinguished
+of her Wardens, John Wilkins, who, no doubt, owed his promotion to
+the fact that he was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. In his
+own day everyone knew him; he was a moderate man, who interceded for
+Royalist scholars under the Commonwealth, and tempered the penal laws
+to Non-Conformists, when later he was Bishop of Chester. He was even
+better known to the "philosophers" as the inventor of a universal
+language and as curious for every advance in Natural Science. But, in
+our day, he is only remembered for his connection with the Royal
+Society; that most illustrious body grew out of the meetings held
+weekly at his Lodgings and the similar meetings held in London; when
+later these two movements were united, Wilkins was secretary of the
+committee which drew up the rules for their future organization, and
+thus prepared the way for the Royal Charter, given to the Society in
+1662. When the Royal Society celebrated its 250th anniversary in
+1912, many of its members made a pilgrimage to "its cradle" (or what
+was, at any rate, "/one/ of its cradles").
+
+Wadham also produced, among other early members of the Royal Society,
+its historian, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, who somehow, as
+"Pindaric Sprat" (he was the friend and also the editor of /Abraham
+Cowley/), found his way into Johnson's /Lives of the Poets/; he is,
+however, more likely to be remembered because his subserviency, when
+he was Dean of Westminster to James II, has earned him an unenviable
+place in Macaulay's gallery of Revolution worthies and unworthies.
+Sprat, it should be added, was an exception to the prevailing Whig
+tradition of Wadham, which found a worthy exponent in Arthur Onslow,
+the greatest Speaker of the House of Commons, who ruled over that
+august body for a record period, thirty-four years (1727-1761), and
+formed its rules and traditions in the period when it was first
+asserting its claim to govern.
+
+ [Plate XXIII. Wadham College : The Hall Interior]
+
+Two centuries later than the Royal Society days at Wadham, another
+group of philosophers was trained there, who thought that the views
+of their master, Auguste Comte, were going to make as great a
+revolution in human thought as the views of a Bacon or a Newton. All
+the leading English Positivists were at Wadham--Congreve, Beesley,
+Bridges, Frederic Harrison, of whom the last alone survives, to fight
+with undiminished vigour for the causes which he championed in Mid-
+Victorian days. Positivism had less influence than its adherents
+expected, but it powerfully affected for a time the political and the
+religious thought of England.
+
+Forty years later another famous group of young men were at Wadham
+together. As they are all alive, it is impossible, and would be
+unbecoming, to estimate what their influence on English life and
+thought will be; but it was a curious coincidence that sent to Wadham
+together, in the 'nineties, Lord Birkenhead, who reached the Woolsack
+at the earliest age on record; Sir John Simon, who, if he had wished,
+could have lowered that record still further, and C. B. Fry, once a
+household name as the greatest of British athletes.
+
+Three groups of Wadham men have been spoken of; one other name must
+be mentioned of one who stood alone at college, and for a long time
+in the world outside, in his attitude to the social problems of our
+day. Whatever may be the future of the Settlement movement, its
+leader, Samuel Barnett, "Barnett of Whitechapel," is not to be
+forgotten, for his name is associated as a pioneer and an inspiring
+force with every movement of educational and social advance in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century. M. Clemenceau, no friendly
+judge of the ministers of any religious body, pronounced him one of
+the three greatest men he had met in England. Certainly he was great,
+if greatness means to anticipate the problems of the future before
+the rest of the world sees their urgency, and to make real
+contributions to their solution.
+
+It has been a feature of the history of Oxford that every college
+has, from time to time, come to the front as the special home and
+source of some movement. There has never been the overshadowing
+concentration of men and of wealth, which has given a more one-sided
+direction to the history of Cambridge. Hence the strength of the
+college system; every college has its traditions to live up to, its
+great names to cherish, and Wadham is, certainly, by no means last or
+least in these respects.
+
+
+
+
+HERTFORD COLLEGE
+
+
+    "Outspake the (Warden) roundly:
+      'The bridge must straight go down;
+     For if they once should get the bridge ...'"
+                     MACAULAY, /Horatius/, adapted.
+
+Academic bridges, over the Cam or elsewhere, are a great feature at
+Cambridge. At Oxford they were unknown till this century, when
+University first of all threw its modest little arch over Logic Lane;
+later, in 1913. the "Bridge of Sighs," which forms the subject of
+Plate XXIV, was completed. There was a hard struggle before leave
+could be obtained from the City Council for thus bridging a public
+thoroughfare; University only maintained their claim to a bridge by a
+long lawsuit, in which the college rights were firmly established by
+the production of charters, which went back to the reign of King
+John. The great opposition to the Hertford Bridge was said to be due
+to regard for the feelings of the old Warden of New College, who
+considered that it would injure the view of his college bell-tower.
+Whether this story be true or not, Hertford obtained its permission
+at last, and Sir Thomas Jackson added a new attraction to Oxford's
+buildings. His genius has been especially shown in triumphing over
+the difficulties of the Hertford site, for it was no easy thing to
+unite into a harmonious whole, buildings so various; his new chapel--
+opened in 1908--is worthy to rank with the best classic architecture
+in Oxford.
+
+The variety of the Hertford buildings only reflects the chequered
+history of the foundations that have occupied them. As early as the
+thirteenth century Hart Hall stood on this site. In the eighteenth
+century this old hall was turned into a college by an Oxford
+reformer, Dr. Newton. But unfortunately Newton's endowments were not
+equal to his ambition, and the first Hertford /College/ fell into
+such decay that finally its buildings were transferred to an entirely
+different foundation, Magdalen Hall. Almost immediately afterwards,
+old Magdalen Hall, which stood close to Magdalen College, was burned
+down, and the society sold their site, thus made empty, to their
+wealthy namesake, and migrated, in 1822, to what had formerly been
+Hertford College. Finally, in 1874, Magdalen Hall was re-endowed by
+the head of the great financial house of Baring as "Hertford College"
+once more.
+
+This college then unites the traditions of two old halls, and of its
+own predecessor, and from all of them it derives some famous names.
+Hart Hall was the home of John Selden, one of the greatest of English
+scholars; Hertford College had an undistinguished English prime
+minister in Henry Pelham, and a most distinguished leader of
+opposition in Charles James Foxe; while Magdalen Hall was even more
+rich in traditions, as being the home of the translator of the Bible,
+William Tyndale, as the centre of Puritan strength in the Laudian
+days, when from its ranks were filled the vacancies all over Oxford
+caused by the expulsions of Royalists, and finally as having trained
+Lord Clarendon, famous as Charles II's minister, still more famous as
+the historian, whose monumental work was one of the first endowments
+of the Oxford Press.
+
+All these traditions are now concentrated in the one college, and, as
+has been said, the buildings have been greatly extended to meet the
+needs of the new foundation. When Hertford College is completed
+according to the plans already drawn by Sir Thomas Jackson, it will
+reach from All Souls' to Holywell. This last northern part of its
+front has been delayed by the European War.
+
+The new--or, rather, the revived--college has, as yet, hardly had
+time to make Oxford history, but the influence of its second
+Principal. Dr. Boyd, whose long reign, happily not yet over, began in
+1877, has had the result of finding for Oxford new benefactors in one
+of the wealthiest of the London City Companies; the Drapers'
+magnificent gifts of the new Science Library and of the Electrical
+Laboratory are good instances to show that the days of the "pious
+founder" are not yet over.
+
+ [Plate XXIV. Hertford College : The Bridge]
+
+
+
+
+ST. EDMUND HALL
+
+
+    "Or wander down an ancient street
+     Where mingling ages quaintly meet,
+     Tower and battlement, dome and gable
+     Mellowed by time to a picture sweet."
+                                    A. G. BUTLER.
+
+The group of buildings, shown in Plate XXV, is not only picturesque--
+it also illustrates Oxford history from more than one point of view.
+
+The apse of the Chapel of Queen's on the left belongs to a building
+already spoken of, which is the most perfect example of a small
+basilican church in Oxford. The church tower in the centre, though
+itself dating from the fourteenth century, is the most modern part of
+one of the oldest churches in Oxford, St. Peter in the East. The
+crypt and the chancel of this church go back to the time of the
+Conquest, and are probably the work of Robert d'Oili, to whom William
+the Conqueror gave the city of Oxford; he was first an oppressor and
+then a benefactor; in the former character, he built the castle keep,
+still standing near the station; in the latter, he was the builder,
+besides St. Peter, of the churches of St. Michael and of the Holy
+Cross; parts of his work survive in all three.
+
+The churchyard, at all events, of St. Peter in the East, deserves a
+visit, lying as it does between the beautiful garden of New College
+and the picturesque buildings of St. Edmund Hall.
+
+Before this last foundation is spoken of, a word must be said as to
+the road round which these three buildings are grouped--Queen's Lane.
+It survives, almost unaltered, from Pre-Reformation Oxford, and,
+winding as it does its narrow way between high walls, it is an
+interesting specimen of the "lanes" which threaded mediaeval Oxford,
+a city in which the High Street and, to a smaller extent, Cornmarket
+Street were the only real thoroughfares; the rest of the city was a
+network of narrow ways.
+
+But from the historic point of view, the most interesting part of the
+picture is its right side, where stand the buildings of St. Edmund
+Hall. This is the only survival of the system of residence in the
+earliest University, of the Oxford which knew not the college system.
+
+Before the days of "pious founders," the students had to provide
+their own places of residence, and very early the custom grew up of
+their living together in "halls," sometimes managed by a non-academic
+owner, but often under the superintendence of some resident Master of
+Arts, who was responsible, not for the teaching, but, at any rate in
+part, for the discipline of the inmates of his hall. These halls had
+at first no endowments and no permanent existence; they depended for
+their continuity on the person of their head. Gradually they became
+more organized; but when once the college system had been introduced,
+it tended, by its superior wealth and efficiency, to render the
+"halls" less and less important. They lost even the one element of
+self-government which they had once had, the right of their members
+to elect their own Principal; this right was usurped by the
+Chancellor. Hence, though five of the halls were surviving at the
+time of the University Commission (of 1850), all of them but St.
+Edmund Hall have now disappeared.
+
+In theory, "hall" and "college" have much in common; one Cambridge
+college indeed has retained the name of "hall," and two of the
+women's colleges in Oxford have preferred to keep the old style. In
+practice, their difference lies in the two facts that colleges are
+wealthier, with more endowments, and that they are self-governing,
+with Fellows who co-opt to vacancies in their own body and elect
+their head. St. Edmund Hall has its head appointed by the fellows of
+Queen's, with which institution it has long been connected.
+
+ [Plate XXV. St. Peter-in-the-East Church and St. Edmund Hall]
+
+The origin of this hall is an unsolved problem: it derives its name
+according to one theory from Edmund Rich, the last Archbishop of
+Canterbury to be canonized, and probably the first recorded Doctor of
+Divinity at Oxford. But this theory is very doubtful, and Hearne,
+most famous of Oxford antiquarians, and probably the best known
+member of St. Edmund Hall, did not believe it. In any case, most of
+the buildings of the hall date long after St. Edmund, and belong to
+the middle of the seventeenth century. Hearne himself is sufficient
+to give interest to any foundation. He was a great scholar and a
+careful editor of the early English Chroniclers in days when learning
+was decaying in Oxford; even now his work as an editor is not
+altogether superseded. But it is not to this that he owes his fame;
+it is rather to the fact that he has high rank among the diarists of
+England, and the first place among those of Oxford. For thirty years
+(1705-1735) in which latter year he died, he poured into his diary
+everything that interested him--scholarly notes, political rumours,
+personal scandal, remarks on manners and customs. The 150 volumes
+came into the possession of his fellow Jacobite, Richard Rawlinson,
+the greatest of the benefactors of the Bodleian, and only now are
+they being fully edited; ten volumes have been issued by the Oxford
+Historical Society, and still there are a few more years of his life
+to cover. As a specimen of Hearne's style may be quoted his remarks,
+when the sermon on Christmas Day, 1732, was postponed till 11 a.m.
+
+"The true reason is that people might lie in bed the longer. . . .
+The same reason hath made them, in almost all places in the
+University, alter the times of prayer, and the hour of dinner (which
+used to be 11 o'clock) in almost every place (Christ Church must be
+excepted); which ancient discipline and learning and piety strangely
+decay." Hearne was critical rather of past history than of present-
+day rumour; he records complacently (in 1706) that at Whitchurch,
+when the dissenters had prepared a great quantity of bricks "to erect
+a capacious conventicle, a destroying angel came by night and spoyled
+them all, and confounded their Babel." Hearne would by no means have
+approved of the Methodist principles of six members of his hall in
+the next generation, who were expelled for their religious views
+(1768). A furious controversy, with many pamphlets, raged over them,
+and the Public Orator of the University wrote a bulky indictment of
+them, which was answered by another pamphlet with the picturesque
+title of "Goliath Slain." Pamphleteers were more free in their
+language in those days than they are now.
+
+The hall has always been a strong religious centre, and plays a very
+useful part in the University--by giving to poor men, seeking Holy
+Orders, a real Oxford education, based on the true Oxford principle
+of community of life.
+
+
+
+IFFLEY MILL
+
+
+    "Thames, the best loved of all old Ocean's sons,
+     Of his old sire, to his embraces runs . . .
+     Though deep, yet clear, through gentle yet not dull,
+     Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."
+                                         SIR J. DENHAM.
+
+ [Plate XXVI. Iffley : The Old Mill]
+
+The subject of Plate XXVI is no longer in existence; it was burned
+to the ground some years ago, and has never been rebuilt--for steam
+has rendered unprofitable the old-fashioned water mills such as it
+was. Yet the very fact that Iffley Mill is no more perhaps renders it
+the more appropriate subject for a series of Oxford pictures. It
+claims a place among them, not for its beauty, picturesque though it
+was, but as a symbol of the open-air pursuits of Oxford, which play
+so large a part in the lives of her sons. And as those pursuits are
+so diverse, and cannot all be directly pictured, it is fitting that
+they should be represented by a picture which is a symbol of them
+all, by a picture of something no longer existing, not introduced for
+itself, but suggesting whole fields of varied activity, different and
+yet all akin.
+
+This may be fanciful, but the part played by open-air sports in the
+life of Oxford is a great reality. Yet, in their present organized
+form, they are a feature of quite, modern times. Fifty years ago,
+football as a college sport in Oxford was only beginning; the men are
+still living, and not octogenarians, who introduced their "school
+games"--"Rugby," "Eton Wall game," etc.--at Oxford. Golf was left to
+Scotchmen, hockey to small boys, La Crosse had not yet come from
+beyond the Atlantic. Cricket and rowing were the only organized
+games, and even in these the inter-University contests are
+comparative novelties; the first boat race against Cambridge was
+rowed in 1829, and it has only been an annual fixture since 1856.
+
+Several results followed from this. In the first place, the very
+sense of the word "sportsman" was different. Now it means a man who
+can play well some, one at least, of the games that all men play;
+then, it had its old meaning of a man who could shoot, or ride, or
+fish, or do all these.
+
+Again, as cricket is always a game for the few, and as the rowing
+authorities, by the time the summer term begins, had selected their
+chosen followers and left the rest of the world free, there was far
+more walking, and consequently more knowledge of the country round
+the city, than is the rule now. The long rambles which play so
+prominent a part in Oxford biographies, such as Stanley's /Life of
+Arnold/, were still the fashion, while of those who could afford to
+ride, certainly many more availed themselves of the privilege than do
+now.
+
+So far as games themselves were concerned, their cost was far less.
+College matches away from Oxford were almost unknown; college
+grounds, which were still quite a new thing in the middle of last
+century, were nearly all concentrated on Cowley Marsh, and the
+somewhat heavy contribution from all undergraduates, now generally
+collected by the college authorities in "battels" and become semi-
+official, was not dreamed of. Those who played paid, and the rest of
+the college got off easily. And games were much more games than they
+are now, and less of institutions; the "professional amateur," who
+comes up with a public school reputation to get his "blue," was
+almost unknown, and certainly, so far as rowing was concerned, any
+powerful man with broad shoulders and a sound heart was a likely
+candidate for the University Boat. The days were not dreamed of when
+the fortunes of Oxford and Cambridge on the river depended largely on
+the choice of a University by members of the Eton Eight.
+
+But there is of course another side to the development of Oxford
+athletics. Perhaps the most important point is that play is the
+greatest social leveller. It is easy to attend the same lectures as a
+man, and even to sit at the same table with him in hall, and not to
+know him well, because his clothes and his accent are not quite
+correct. But in these days when so many games are played, and when
+competition is so keen, any man who can do anything gets his chance;
+and many are the instances every year of men who would never have
+made friends in their colleges outside a small circle, had not their
+quickness as half-backs, or their ability as slow bowlers, brought
+their contemporaries to recognize their merits. You cannot play with
+a man without knowing him, and young Oxford is democratic at heart,
+and when once it knows a man, it does not trouble about the non-
+essentials of wealth and fashion.
+
+And again, though it may seem a paradox to say it, the amount of play
+in Oxford has increased the amount of work. Organized games mean
+physical fitness, and physical fitness means ability to get
+intellectual work done. Perhaps it may be argued that the absorption
+in athletics deadens all intellectual life, and that many Oxford men
+read only and discuss only the sporting news in the papers; this no
+doubt has a strange fascination, even for men who do not play; one of
+the most distinguished of Oxford statesmen of the last generation,
+himself so blind that he could not hit a ball, confessed to me that
+he always, in the summer, read the cricket news in /The Times/ before
+he read anything else. But he and many other Oxford men read
+something else, too. And it may be maintained without question that
+the hard exercise, which is the fashion in Oxford, tends to keep
+men's bodies healthy and to raise the moral tone of the place. Oxford
+and Cambridge may not be what they should be in morals, but they
+compare very favourably in this respect with other towns.
+
+All this seems a far cry from Iffley Mill; but Iffley means to an
+Oxford man, not so much the picturesque village, nor even its gem of
+a Norman Church that towers above the lock, but the place where
+Eights and Torpids start for the races. And the boating, which is so
+associated with the name of Iffley, is still--and long may it be so--
+the queen of Oxford sports. To succeed as an oar, a man has to learn
+to sacrifice the present to the future, to scorn delights and live
+laborious days, to work together with others, and to sink his
+individuality in the common cause. These are great qualities, and
+therefore in any book on Oxford, the picture, which recalls them and
+is their symbol, has a right to a place.
+
+
+                      Printed in Great Britain.
+             Letterpress by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh.
+    Plates engraved and printed by Henry Stone & Son, Ltd., Banbury.
+
+
+ [OXFORD FROM THE EAST (End papers)]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Charm of Oxford, by J. Wells
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