112 files changed, 17659 insertions, 22700 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
index 6833f05..d7b82bc 100644
--- a/.gitattributes
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -1,3 +1,4 @@
-* text=auto
-*.txt text
-*.md text
+*.txt text eol=lf
+*.htm text eol=lf
+*.html text eol=lf
+*.md text eol=lf
diff --git a/13150-0.txt b/13150-0.txt
index f43a66d..1afc54f 100644
--- a/13150-0.txt
+++ b/13150-0.txt
@@ -1,30 +1,90 @@
 *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13150 ***
 
-THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
 
 
-By E.L. Kolb
 
+                       _Through the Grand Canyon
+                        from Wyoming to Mexico_
+
+
+
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+                         THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
+
+                 NEW YORK · BOSTON · CHICAGO · DALLAS
+                        ATLANTA · SAN FRANCISCO
+
+
+                       MACMILLAN & CO., LIMITED
+
+                      LONDON · BOMBAY · CALCUTTA
+                               MELBOURNE
+
+
+                   THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, LTD.
+                                TORONTO
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE GRAND CANYON AT THE MOUTH OF HA VA SU CREEK.]
+
+
+
+
+                      _Through the Grand Canyon
+                        from Wyoming to Mexico_
+
+
+                                  _By
+                              E. L. Kolb_
+
+
+                   _With a Foreword by Owen Wister_
 
-With a Foreword by Owen Wister
 
+                              _New Edition
+                     With Additional Illustrations
+                              (72 Plates)
+                        From Photographs by the
+                        Author and His Brother_
 
-New Edition
-With Additional Illustrations
-(72 Plates)
-From Photographs by the Author and His Brother
 
+                              _New York
+                         The Macmillan Company
+                                 1915
+                         All rights reserved_
 
 
-1915
 
 
+                           COPYRIGHT, 1914,
+                       BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
 
-Dedication
+      Set up and electrotyped. Published October, 1914. Reprinted
+           December, 1914. New edition published June, 1915.
 
-TO THE MANY FRIENDS WHO "PULLED" FOR US, IF NOT WITH US DURING THE ONE
-HUNDRED ONE DAYS OF OUR RIVER TRIP, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY
-DEDICATED.
+
+
+
+                             Norwood Press
+                J. S. Cushing Co.--Berwick & Smith Co.
+                        Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+                              Dedication
+
+                          TO THE MANY FRIENDS
+
+                  WHO “PULLED” FOR US, IF NOT WITH US
+
+           DURING THE ONE HUNDRED ONE DAYS OF OUR RIVER TRIP
+
+                              THIS VOLUME
+
+                       IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
 
 
 
@@ -37,77 +97,79 @@ possessor--shared equally by his daring brother; and evidence of this
 bravery is made plain throughout the following pages. Every youth who
 has in him a spark of adventure will kindle with desire to battle his
 way also from Green River to the foot of Bright Angel Trail; while
-every man whose bones have been stiffened and his breath made short by
-the years, will remember wistfully such wild tastes of risk and
+every man whose bones have been stiffened and his breath made short
+by the years, will remember wistfully such wild tastes of risk and
 conquest that he, too, rejoiced in when he was young.
 
 Whether it deal with the climbing of dangerous peaks, or the descent
 (as here) of some fourteen hundred miles of water both mysterious and
-ferocious, the well-told tale of a perilous journey, planned with head
-and carried through with dauntless persistence, always holds the
-attention of its readers and gives them many a thrill. This tale is
-very well told. Though it is the third of its kind, it differs from
-its predecessors more than enough to hold its own: no previous
-explorers have attempted to take moving pictures of the Colorado River
-with themselves weltering in its foam. More than this: while the human
-race lasts it will be true, that any man who is lucky enough to fix
-upon a hard goal and win it, and can in direct and simple words tell
-us how he won it, will write a good book.
+ferocious, the well-told tale of a perilous journey, planned with
+head and carried through with dauntless persistence, always holds
+the attention of its readers and gives them many a thrill. This tale
+is very well told. Though it is the third of its kind, it differs
+from its predecessors more than enough to hold its own: no previous
+explorers have attempted to take moving pictures of the Colorado
+River with themselves weltering in its foam. More than this: while
+the human race lasts it will be true, that any man who is lucky
+enough to fix upon a hard goal and win it, and can in direct and
+simple words tell us how he won it, will write a good book.
 
 Perhaps this planet does somewhere else contain a thing like the
-Colorado River--but that is no matter; we at any rate in our continent
-possess one of nature's very vastest works. After The River and its
-tributaries have done with all sight of the upper world, have left
-behind the bordering plains and streamed through the various gashes
-which their floods have sliced in the mountains that once stopped
-their way, then the culminating wonder begins. The River has been
-flowing through the loneliest part which remains to us of that large
-space once denominated "The Great American Desert" by the vague maps
-in our old geographies. It has passed through regions of emptiness
-still as wild as they were before Columbus came; where not only no man
-lives now nor any mark is found of those forgotten men of the cliffs,
-but the very surface of the earth itself looks monstrous and extinct.
-Upon one such region in particular the author of these pages dwells,
-when he climbs up out of the gulf in whose bottom he has left his boat
-by the River, to look out upon a world of round gray humps and hollows
-which seem as if it were made of the backs of huge elephants. Through
-such a country as this, scarcely belonging to our era any more than
-the mammoth or the pterodactyl, scarcely belonging to time at all,
-does the Colorado approach and enter its culminating marvel. Then, for
-283 miles it inhabits a nether world of its own. The few that have
-ventured through these places and lived are a handful to those who
-went in and were never seen again. The white bones of some have been
-found on the shores; but most were drowned; and in this water no
-bodies ever rise, because the thick sand that its torrent churns along
-clogs and sinks them.
-
-This place exerts a magnetic spell. The sky is there above it, but not
-of it. Its being is apart; its climate; its light; its own. The beams
-of the sun come into it like visitors. Its own winds blow through it,
-not those of outside, where we live. The River streams down its
-mysterious reaches, hurrying ceaselessly; sometimes a smooth sliding
-lap, sometimes a falling, broken wilderness of billows and whirlpools.
-Above stand its walls, rising through space upon space of silence.
-They glow, they gloom, they shine. Bend after bend they reveal
-themselves, endlessly new in endlessly changing veils of colour. A
-swimming and jewelled blue predominates, as of sapphires being melted
-and spun into skeins of shifting cobweb. Bend after bend this trance
-of beauty and awe goes on, terrible as the Day of Judgment, sublime as
-the Psalms of David. Five thousand feet below the opens and barrens of
-Arizona, this canyon seems like an avenue conducting to the secret of
-the universe and the presence of the gods.
-
-Is much wonder to be felt that its beckoning enchantment should have
-drawn two young men to dwell beside it for many years; to give
+Colorado River--but that is no matter; we at any rate in our
+continent possess one of nature’s very vastest works. After The River
+and its tributaries have done with all sight of the upper world, have
+left behind the bordering plains and streamed through the various
+gashes which their floods have sliced in the mountains that once
+stopped their way, then the culminating wonder begins. The River
+has been flowing through the loneliest part which remains to us of
+that large space once denominated “The Great American Desert” by the
+vague maps in our old geographies. It has passed through regions of
+emptiness still as wild as they were before Columbus came; where not
+only no man lives now nor any mark is found of those forgotten men of
+the cliffs, but the very surface of the earth itself looks monstrous
+and extinct. Upon one such region in particular the author of these
+pages dwells, when he climbs up out of the gulf in whose bottom he
+has left his boat by the River, to look out upon a world of round
+gray humps and hollows which seem as if it were made of the backs of
+huge elephants. Through such a country as this, scarcely belonging
+to our era any more than the mammoth or the pterodactyl, scarcely
+belonging to time at all, does the Colorado approach and enter its
+culminating marvel. Then, for 283 miles it inhabits a nether world of
+its own. The few that have ventured through these places and lived
+are a handful to those who went in and were never seen again. The
+white bones of some have been found on the shores; but most were
+drowned; and in this water no bodies ever rise, because the thick
+sand that its torrent churns along clogs and sinks them.
+
+This place exerts a magnetic spell. The sky is there above it, but
+not of it. Its being is apart; its climate; its light; its own. The
+beams of the sun come into it like visitors. Its own winds blow
+through it, not those of outside, where we live. The River streams
+down its mysterious reaches, hurrying ceaselessly; sometimes a smooth
+sliding lap, sometimes a falling, broken wilderness of billows and
+whirlpools. Above stand its walls, rising through space upon space
+of silence. They glow, they gloom, they shine. Bend after bend they
+reveal themselves, endlessly new in endlessly changing veils of
+colour. A swimming and jewelled blue predominates, as of sapphires
+being melted and spun into skeins of shifting cobweb. Bend after
+bend this trance of beauty and awe goes on, terrible as the Day of
+Judgment, sublime as the Psalms of David. Five thousand feet below
+the opens and barrens of Arizona, this canyon seems like an avenue
+conducting to the secret of the universe and the presence of the gods.
+
+Is much wonder to be felt that its beckoning enchantment should
+have drawn two young men to dwell beside it for many years; to give
 themselves wholly to it; to descend and ascend among its buttressed
 pinnacles; to discover caves and waterfalls hidden in its labyrinths;
 to climb, to creep, to hang in mid-air, in order to learn more and
 more of it, and at last to gratify wholly their passion in the great
 adventure of this journey through it from end to end? No siren song
 could have lured travellers more than the siren silence of the Grand
-Canyon: but these young men did not leave their bones to whiten upon
-its shores. The courage that brought them out whole is plain
-throughout this narrative, in spite of its modesty.--OWEN WISTER.
+Canyon: but these young men did not leave their bones to whiten
+upon its shores. The courage that brought them out whole is plain
+throughout this narrative, in spite of its modesty.
+
+                                                     OWEN WISTER.
 
 
 
@@ -115,19 +177,19 @@ throughout this narrative, in spite of its modesty.--OWEN WISTER.
 PREFACE
 
 
-This is a simple narrative of our recent photographic trip down the
-Green and Colorado rivers in rowboats--our observations and
+This is a simple narrative of our recent photographic trip down
+the Green and Colorado rivers in rowboats--our observations and
 impressions. It is not intended to replace in any way the books
-published by others covering a similar journey. Major J.W. Powell's
+published by others covering a similar journey. Major J. W. Powell’s
 report of the original exploration, for instance, is a classic,
 literary and geological; and searchers after excellence may well be
 recommended to his admirable work.
 
 Neither is this chronicle intended as a handbook of the territory
-traversed--such as Mr. F.S. Dellenbaugh's two volumes: "The Romance of
-the Grand Canyon," and "A Canyon Voyage." We could hardly hope to add
-anything of value to his wealth of detail. In fact, much of the data
-given here--such as distances, elevations, and records of other
+traversed--such as Mr. F. S. Dellenbaugh’s two volumes: “The Romance
+of the Grand Canyon,” and “A Canyon Voyage.” We could hardly hope to
+add anything of value to his wealth of detail. In fact, much of the
+data given here--such as distances, elevations, and records of other
 expeditions--is borrowed from the latter volume. And I take this
 opportunity of expressing our appreciation to Mr. Dellenbaugh for his
 most excellent and entertaining books.
@@ -136,14 +198,14 @@ We are indebted to Mr. Julius F. Stone, of Columbus, Ohio, for much
 valuable information and assistance. Mr. Stone organized a party and
 made the complete trip down the Green and Colorado rivers in the fall
 and winter of 1909, arriving at Needles, California, on November 27,
-1909. He freely gave us the benefit of his experience and presented us
-with the complete plans of the boats he used.
+1909. He freely gave us the benefit of his experience and presented
+us with the complete plans of the boats he used.
 
 One member of this party was Nathan Galloway, of Richfield, Utah. To
-him we owe much of the success of our journey. Mr. Galloway hunts and
-traps through the wilds of Utah, Colorado, and Arizona, and has a fame
-for skill and nerve throughout this entire region. He makes a yearly
-trip through the upper canyons, usually in a boat of his own
+him we owe much of the success of our journey. Mr. Galloway hunts
+and traps through the wilds of Utah, Colorado, and Arizona, and has
+a fame for skill and nerve throughout this entire region. He makes a
+yearly trip through the upper canyons, usually in a boat of his own
 construction; and in addition has the record of being the only person
 who has made two complete trips through the entire series of canyons,
 clear to Needles. He it is who has worked out the type of boats we
@@ -165,289 +227,201 @@ to be no other way than to tell it as you find it here.
 
 
 
-+CONTENTS+
-
-
-CHAPTER                                          PAGE
-
-    I. PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING    1
-
-   II.  INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING     12
-
-  III. THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS              22
-
-   IV. SUSPICIOUS HOSTS                            36
-
-    V. THE BATTLE WITH LODORE                      50
-
-   VI. HELL'S HALF MILE                            64
-
-  VII. JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN                71
-
- VIII. AN INLAND EXCURSION                         83
-
-   IX. CANYON OF DESOLATION                        93
-
-    X. HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN                        102
-
-   XI. WONDERS OF EROSION                         111
-
-  XII. COULD WE SUCCEED?                          121
-
- XIII. A COMPANION VOYAGER                        129
-
-  XIV. A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS               142
-
-   XV. PLACER GOLD                                156
-
-  XVI. A WARNING                                  169
-
- XVII. A NIGHT OF THRILLS                         178
-
-XVIII. MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS              190
-
-  XIX. SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME                 203
-
-   XX. ONE MONTH LATER                            219
-
-  XXI. WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT                 235
-
- XXII. SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE     249
-
-XXIII. THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS       267
-
- XXIV. ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD                    280
-
-  XXV. FOUR DAYS TO YUMA                          290
-
- XXVI. ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER                   303
-
-XXVII. THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA                     321
-
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-The Grand Canyon near the mouth of Ha Va Su Creek     _Frontispiece_
-
-
-After a difficult picture. E. C. Kolb on rope...................   2
-
-In the Grand Canyon near the Little Colorado....................   6
-
-The start at Green River, Wyoming...............................  10
-
-Fire Hole Chimneys..............................................  10
-
-A typical butte formation.......................................  14
-
-Boats and crew. Photo taken in the Grand Canyon.................  18
-
-Skeleton found in the Grand Canyon..............................  22
-
-Inside of the first canyons.....................................  26
-
-Tilted rocks at Kingfisher Canyon...............................  26
-
-"Immense rocks had fallen from the cliff".......................  36
-
-Ashley Falls, looking down-stream...............................  40
-
-The rocks were dark red; occasional pines grew on the ledges,
-  making a charming combination of colour.......................  44
-
-"We stopped at one hay ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line"...  48
+                               CONTENTS
 
-Remarkable entrance to Lodore Canyon............................  52
+  CHAPTER                                          PAGE
+      I. PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING    1
 
-"The river cut a channel under the walls" at Lower Disaster
-  Falls.........................................................  56
+     II. INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING      12
 
-"Everything was wet"............................................  56
+    III. THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS              22
 
-A Colorado River salmon.........................................  60
+     IV. SUSPICIOUS HOSTS                            36
 
-Lodore Canyon as seen from Brown's Park.........................  60
+      V. THE BATTLE WITH LODORE                      50
 
-"The Canyon was gloomy and darkened with shreds of clouds"......  64
+     VI. HELL’S HALF MILE                            64
 
-"It took nine loads to empty one boat"..........................  68
+    VII. JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN                71
 
-"An upright log was found wedged between the boulders"..........  68
+   VIII. AN INLAND EXCURSION                         83
 
-Echo Cliffs. "This was the end of Lodore".......................  72
+     IX. CANYON OF DESOLATION                        93
 
-End of Echo Cliffs. The mouth of the Yampa River is on the
- right..........................................................  72
+      X. HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN                        102
 
-Marvels of erosion..............................................  76
+     XI. WONDERS OF EROSION                         111
 
-"Here was one end of the rainbow of rock that began on the
-  other side of the mountains"..................................  80
+    XII. COULD WE SUCCEED?                          121
 
-Pat Lynch: the canyon hermit....................................  84
+   XIII. A COMPANION VOYAGER                        129
 
-Each bed was placed in a rubber and a canvas sack...............  90
+    XIV. A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS               142
 
-"Now for a fish story" ......................................... 100
+     XV. PLACER GOLD                                156
 
-The centre of three symmetrical formations in the Double Bow
-  Knot.......................................................... 114
+    XVI. A WARNING                                  169
 
-The Buttes of the Cross......................................... 118
+   XVII. A NIGHT OF THRILLS                         178
 
-"The Land of Standing Rocks was like a maze".................... 122
+  XVIII. MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS              190
 
-Rocks overhanging the Colorado's Gorge.......................... 122
+    XIX. SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME                 203
 
-Thirteen hundred feet above the Green River..................... 124
+     XX. ONE MONTH LATER                            219
 
-The junction of the Green and the Grand Rivers.................. 128
+    XXI. WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT                 235
 
-Looking west into Cataract Canyon............................... 132
+   XXII. SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE     249
 
-Charles Smith and his boat...................................... 132
+  XXIII. THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS       267
 
-A narrow channel at Rapid No. 22................................ 136
+   XXIV. ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD                    280
 
-Developing tests................................................ 136
-
-Rapid No. 22 in Cataract Canyon................................. 140
-
-The _Edith_ in a cataract....................................... 144
-
-A seventy-five-foot drop in three-fourths of a mile............. 144
-
-Camp in the heart of Cataract Canyon............................ 148
-
-Lower Cataract Canyon. Boats tandem............................. 152
-
-Beginning of a natural bridge. Glen Canyon...................... 152
-
-Pictographs in Glen Canyon...................................... 158
-
-Cliff ruins near San Juan River................................. 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking south........................... 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking north........................... 166
-
-Glen Canyon near Navajo Mountain................................ 170
-
-Upper Marble Canyon............................................. 170
-
-Placer dredge at Lee's Ferry.................................... 174
-
-Badger Creek Rapid.............................................. 180
-
-Bands of marble in Marble Canyon................................ 180
-
-A peaceful camp in Marble Canyon................................ 184
-
-The Soap Creek Rapid; a little above lowest stage. Photo
-  published by permission of Julius F. Stone.................... 188
-
-"It was too good a camp to miss"................................ 192
-
-Arch in Marble Canyon........................................... 192
-
-Walls of Marble Canyon.......................................... 196
-
-Approaching the Grand Canyon.................................... 200
-
-End of Marble Canyon, from the mouth of the Little Colorado..... 204
-
-Cataracts of the Little Colorado River.......................... 204
-
-End of Hance Trail. Small white line is an intrusion of quartz
-  in the algonkian.............................................. 208
-
-Below the Sockdologer........................................... 210
-
-The Rust Tramway. Span four hundred and fifty feet.............. 214
-
-Bright Angel Creek and Canyon................................... 218
-
-Leaving home, Dec. 19, 1911..................................... 222
-
-A composite picture of Marble Canyon walls and a Grand Canyon
-  rapid......................................................... 222
-
-The _Edith_ (on left of central rock) in Granite Falls.......... 226
-
-Rough water in Hermit Creek Rapid............................... 230
-
-Type of rapid in the granite near Bass Trail.................... 234
-
-The inner plateau, thirteen hundred feet above the river........ 238
-
-Bert Lauzon, above Separation Rapid............................. 238
-
-The break in the _Edith_........................................ 242
-
-Merry Christmas. The repair was made with bilge boards, canvas,
-  paint, and tin................................................ 242
-
-Pulling clear of a rock......................................... 246
-
-A shower bath................................................... 246
-
-Grand Canyon at the mouth of Ha Va Su Canyon. Medium high
-  water. Frontispiece shows same place in low water............. 250
-
-"Morning revealed a little snow," on the top.................... 252
-
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section between the highest
-  sheer walls in the lower gorge................................ 252
-
-Lava Falls. Lava on left, hot springs on right.................. 254
-
-Swift water in Tapeets Creek Rapid.............................. 260
-
-Lauzon, equipped with a life preserver on a rope, on guard
-  below a rapid................................................. 260
-
-In the last granite gorge....................................... 260
-
-Capt. Burro: a Ha Va Supai...................................... 266
-
-The Last Portage. The rocks were ice-filmed. Note potholes...... 270
-
-Mooney Falls: Ha Va Su Canyon................................... 274
-
-Watching for the signal fire. Mrs. Emery and Edith Kolb......... 278
-
-The granite gorge near Bright Angel Trail....................... 282
-
-The Grand Canyon from the head of Bright Angel Trail............ 286
-
-The Cork Screw: lower end of Bright Angel Trail................. 290
-
-Zoroaster Temple from the end of Bright Angel Trail............. 298
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon from the Rim......................... 308
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon at the River......................... 308
-
-A vaquero in the making......................................... 318
-
-Cliff swallows' nests. Found from Wyoming to Mexico............. 318
-
-Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake................................ 326
-
-Cocopah Mountain, Mexico........................................ 326
-
-Ten miles from the Gulf of California. Coming up on a
-  twenty-foot tide.............................................. 332
-
-Sunset on the lower Colorado River.............................. 332
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
+    XXV. FOUR DAYS TO YUMA                          290
+
+   XXVI. ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER                   303
+
+  XXVII. THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA                     321
+
+
+
+
+                            ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  The Grand Canyon near the mouth of Ha Va Su Creek
+                                                  _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                    FACING PAGE
+  After a difficult picture. E. C. Kolb on rope               2
+  In the Grand Canyon near the Little Colorado                6
+  The start at Green River, Wyoming                          10
+  Fire Hole Chimneys                                         10
+  A typical butte formation                                  14
+  Boats and crew. Photo taken in the Grand Canyon            18
+  Skeleton found in the Grand Canyon                         22
+  Inside of the first canyons                                26
+  Tilted rocks at Kingfisher Canyon                          26
+  “Immense rocks had fallen from the cliff”                  36
+  Ashley Falls, looking down-stream                          40
+  The rocks were dark red; occasional pines grew on the
+    ledges, making a charming combination of colour          44
+  “We stopped at one hay ranch close to the Utah-Colorado
+    line”                                                    48
+  Remarkable entrance to Lodore Canyon                       52
+  “The river cut a channel under the walls” at Lower
+    Disaster Falls                                           56
+  “Everything was wet”                                       56
+  A Colorado River salmon                                    60
+  Lodore Canyon as seen from Brown’s Park.                   60
+  “The Canyon was gloomy and darkened with shreds of
+    clouds”                                                  64
+  “It took nine loads to empty one boat”                     68
+  “An upright log was found wedged between the boulders”     68
+  Echo Cliffs. “This was the end of Lodore”                  72
+  End of Echo Cliffs. The mouth of the Yampa River is
+    on the right                                             72
+  Marvels of erosion                                         76
+  “Here was one end of the rainbow of rock that began
+    on the other side of the mountains”                      80
+  Pat Lynch: the canyon hermit                               84
+  Each bed was placed in a rubber and a canvas sack          90
+  “Now for a fish story”                                    100
+  The centre of three symmetrical formations in the Double
+    Bow Knot                                                114
+  The Buttes of the Cross                                   118
+  “The Land of Standing Rocks was like a maze”              122
+  Rocks overhanging the Colorado’s Gorge                    122
+  Thirteen hundred feet above the Green River               124
+  The junction of the Green and the Grand Rivers            128
+  Looking west into Cataract Canyon                         132
+  Charles Smith and his boat                                132
+  A narrow channel at Rapid No. 22                          136
+  Developing tests                                          136
+  Rapid No. 22 in Cataract Canyon                           140
+  The _Edith_ in a cataract                                 144
+  A seventy-five-foot drop in three-fourths of a mile       144
+  Camp in the heart of Cataract Canyon                      148
+  Lower Cataract Canyon. Boats tandem                       152
+  Beginning of a natural bridge. Glen Canyon                152
+  Pictographs in Glen Canyon                                158
+  Cliff ruins near San Juan River                           162
+  Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking south                     162
+  Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking north                     166
+  Glen Canyon near Navajo Mountain                          170
+  Upper Marble Canyon                                       170
+  Placer dredge at Lee’s Ferry                              174
+  Badger Creek Rapid                                        180
+  Bands of marble in Marble Canyon                          180
+  A peaceful camp in Marble Canyon                          184
+  The Soap Creek Rapid; a little above lowest stage. Photo
+    published by permission of Julius F. Stone              188
+  “It was too good a camp to miss”                          192
+  Arch in Marble Canyon                                     192
+  Walls of Marble Canyon                                    196
+  Approaching the Grand Canyon                              200
+  End of Marble Canyon, from the mouth of the Little
+    Colorado                                                204
+  Cataracts of the Little Colorado River                    204
+  End of Hance Trail. Small white line is an intrusion of
+    quartz in the algonkian                                 208
+  Below the Sockdologer                                     210
+  The Rust Tramway. Span four hundred and fifty feet        214
+  Bright Angel Creek and Canyon                             218
+  Leaving home, Dec. 19, 1911                               222
+  A composite picture of Marble Canyon walls and a Grand
+    Canyon rapid                                            222
+  The _Edith_ (on left of central rock) in
+    Granite Falls                                           226
+  Rough water in Hermit Creek Rapid                         230
+  Type of rapid in the granite near Bass Trail              234
+  The inner plateau, thirteen hundred feet above the river  238
+  Bert Lauzon, above Separation Rapid                       238
+  The break in the _Edith_                                  242
+  Merry Christmas. The repair was made with bilge boards,
+    canvas, paint, and tin                                  242
+  Pulling clear of a rock                                   246
+  A shower bath                                             246
+  Grand Canyon at the mouth of Ha Va Su Canyon. Medium
+    high water. Frontispiece shows same place in
+    low water                                               250
+  “Morning revealed a little snow,” on the top              252
+  New Year’s Eve was spent in this section between the
+    highest sheer walls in the lower gorge                  252
+  Lava Falls. Lava on left, hot springs on right            254
+  Swift water in Tapeets Creek Rapid                        260
+  Lauzon, equipped with a life preserver on a rope, on
+    guard below a rapid                                     260
+  In the last granite gorge                                 260
+  Capt. Burro: a Ha Va Supai                                266
+  The Last Portage. The rocks were ice-filmed. Note
+    potholes                                                270
+  Mooney Falls: Ha Va Su Canyon                             274
+  Watching for the signal fire. Mrs. Emery and Edith Kolb   278
+  The granite gorge near Bright Angel Trail                 282
+  The Grand Canyon from the head of Bright Angel Trail      286
+  The Cork Screw: lower end of Bright Angel Trail           290
+  Zoroaster Temple from the end of Bright Angel Trail       298
+  Winter in the Grand Canyon from the Rim                   308
+  Winter in the Grand Canyon at the River                   308
+  A vaquero in the making                                   318
+  Cliff swallows’ nests. Found from Wyoming to Mexico       318
+  Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake                          326
+  Cocopah Mountain, Mexico                                  326
+  Ten miles from the Gulf of California. Coming up on
+    a twenty-foot tide                                      332
+  Sunset on the lower Colorado River                        332
+
+
+
+
+_Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico_
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: Map]
 
 
 
@@ -459,31 +433,31 @@ THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
 
 CHAPTER I
 
-
-
 PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING
 
+
 Early in September of 1911 my brother Emery and I landed in Green
 River City, Wyoming, ready for the launching of our boats on our
 long-planned trip down the Green and Colorado rivers.
 
-For ten years previous to this time we had lived at the Grand Canyon
-of Arizona, following the work of scenic photography. In a general way
-we had covered much of the country adjacent to our home, following our
-pack animals over ancient and little-used trails, climbing the walls
-of tributary canyons, dropping over the ledges with ropes when
-necessary, always in search of the interesting and unusual.
+For ten years previous to this time we had lived at the Grand
+Canyon of Arizona, following the work of scenic photography. In a
+general way we had covered much of the country adjacent to our home,
+following our pack animals over ancient and little-used trails,
+climbing the walls of tributary canyons, dropping over the ledges
+with ropes when necessary, always in search of the interesting and
+unusual.
 
 After ten years of such work many of our plans in connection with a
 pictorial exploration of the Grand Canyon were crowned with success.
 Yet all the while our real ambition remained unsatisfied.
 
-We wanted to make the "Big Trip"--as we called it; in other words, we
-wanted a pictorial record of the entire series of canyons on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
+We wanted to make the “Big Trip”--as we called it; in other words,
+we wanted a pictorial record of the entire series of canyons on the
+Green and Colorado rivers.
 
-The time had come at last, after years of hoping, after long months of
-active preparation.
+The time had come at last, after years of hoping, after long months
+of active preparation.
 
 We stood at the freight window of the station at Green River City
 asking for news of our boats. They had arrived and could be seen in
@@ -492,33 +466,37 @@ with them that day; so we let them remain where they were, and went
 out to look over the town.
 
 Green River City proved to be a busy little place noisy with switch
-engines, crowded with cattle-men and cowboys, and with hunting parties
-outfitting for the Jackson Hole country. A thoroughly Western town of
-the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people and
+engines, crowded with cattle-men and cowboys, and with hunting
+parties outfitting for the Jackson Hole country. A thoroughly Western
+town of the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people and
 surroundings that the name implies.
 
 It was busier than usual, even, that evening; for a noisy but
-good-natured crowd had gathered around the telegraph office, eager for
-news of a wrestling match then taking place in an Eastern city. As we
-came up they broke into a cheer at the news that the American wrestler
-had defeated his foreign opponent. There was a discussion as to what
-constituted the "toe-hold," three boys ran an impromptu foot-race,
-there was some talk on the poor condition of the range, and the party
-began to break up.
+good-natured crowd had gathered around the telegraph office, eager
+for news of a wrestling match then taking place in an Eastern city.
+As we came up they broke into a cheer at the news that the American
+wrestler had defeated his foreign opponent. There was a discussion
+as to what constituted the “toe-hold,” three boys ran an impromptu
+foot-race, there was some talk on the poor condition of the range,
+and the party began to break up.
 
-The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel; feeling, in
-spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome and very much out of place.
-Our sleep that night was fitful and broken by dreams wherein the
-places we had known were strangely interwoven with these new scenes
-and events. Through it all we seemed to hear the roar of the Rio
-Colorado.
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  AFTER A DIFFICULT PICTURE. E. C. KOLB ON THE ROPE.]
 
-We looked out of the window the next morning, on a landscape that was
-novel, yet somehow familiar. The river, a quarter of a mile away, very
-clear and unruffled under its groves of cottonwood, wound through low
-barren hills, as unlike as could be to the cliffs and chasms we knew
-so well. But the colours--gray, red, and umber, just as Moran has
-painted them--reassured us. We seemed not so far from home, after all.
+The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel; feeling, in
+spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome and very much out of
+place. Our sleep that night was fitful and broken by dreams wherein
+the places we had known were strangely interwoven with these new
+scenes and events. Through it all we seemed to hear the roar of the
+Rio Colorado.
+
+We looked out of the window the next morning, on a landscape that
+was novel, yet somehow familiar. The river, a quarter of a mile
+away, very clear and unruffled under its groves of cottonwood, wound
+through low barren hills, as unlike as could be to the cliffs and
+chasms we knew so well. But the colours--gray, red, and umber, just
+as Moran has painted them--reassured us. We seemed not so far from
+home, after all.
 
 It was Wyoming weather, though; clear and cold, after a windy night.
 When, after breakfast, we went down to the river, we found that a
@@ -529,22 +507,22 @@ innumerable boxes and bundles, checking off each article against our
 lists; and with a long and careful overhauling of our photographic
 outfit.
 
-This last was a most important task, for the success of our expedition
-depended on our success as photographers. We could not hope to add
-anything of importance to the scientific and topographic knowledge of
-the canyons already existing: and merely to come out alive at the
-other end did not make a strong appeal to our vanity. We were there as
-scenic photographers in love with their work, and determined to
-reproduce the marvels of the Colorado's canyons, as far as we could do
-it.
+This last was a most important task, for the success of our
+expedition depended on our success as photographers. We could not
+hope to add anything of importance to the scientific and topographic
+knowledge of the canyons already existing: and merely to come out
+alive at the other end did not make a strong appeal to our vanity.
+We were there as scenic photographers in love with their work, and
+determined to reproduce the marvels of the Colorado’s canyons, as far
+as we could do it.
 
 In addition to three film cameras we had 8 × 10 and 5 × 7 plate
 cameras; a plentiful supply of plates and films; a large cloth
 dark-room; and whatever chemicals we should need for tests. Most
-important of all, we had brought a motion-picture camera. We had no
-real assurance that so delicate an apparatus, always difficult to use
-and regulate, could even survive the journey--much less, in such
-inexperienced hands as ours, reproduce its wonders. But this,
+important of all, we had brought a motion-picture camera. We had
+no real assurance that so delicate an apparatus, always difficult
+to use and regulate, could even survive the journey--much less, in
+such inexperienced hands as ours, reproduce its wonders. But this,
 nevertheless, was our secret hope, hardly admitted to our most
 intimate friends--that we could bring out a record of the Colorado as
 it is, a live thing, armed as it were with teeth, ready to crush and
@@ -552,15 +530,16 @@ devour.
 
 There was shopping to do; for the purchases of provisions, with a few
 exceptions, had been left to the last. There were callers, too--an
-embarrassing number of them. We had camped on a small island near the
-town, not knowing when we did so that it had recently been put aside
-for a public park. The whole of Green River City, it seemed, had
-learned of our project, and came to inspect, or advise, or jeer at us.
-The kindest of them wished us well; the other sort told us "it would
-serve us right"; but not one of our callers had any encouragement to
-offer. Many were the stories of disaster and death with which they
-entertained us. One story in particular, as it seems never to have
-reached print--though unquestionably true--ought to be set down here.
+embarrassing number of them. We had camped on a small island near
+the town, not knowing when we did so that it had recently been put
+aside for a public park. The whole of Green River City, it seemed,
+had learned of our project, and came to inspect, or advise, or jeer
+at us. The kindest of them wished us well; the other sort told us
+“it would serve us right”; but not one of our callers had any
+encouragement to offer. Many were the stories of disaster and death
+with which they entertained us. One story in particular, as it seems
+never to have reached print--though unquestionably true--ought to be
+set down here.
 
 Three years before two young men from St. Louis had embarked here,
 intending to follow the river throughout its whole course. They were
@@ -573,142 +552,149 @@ odd miles below Green River City. It looked bad to them. They landed
 above it and stripped to their underclothing and socks. Then they
 pushed out into the stream.
 
-Almost at once they lost control of the boat. It overturned; it rolled
-over and over; it flung them off and left them swimming for their
-lives. In some way, possibly the currents favouring, they reached the
-shore. The boat, with all its contents, was gone. There they were,
-almost naked, without food, without weapons, without the means of
-building a fire; and in an uninhabited and utterly inhospitable
-country.
+Almost at once they lost control of the boat. It overturned; it
+rolled over and over; it flung them off and left them swimming for
+their lives. In some way, possibly the currents favouring, they
+reached the shore. The boat, with all its contents, was gone. There
+they were, almost naked, without food, without weapons, without
+the means of building a fire; and in an uninhabited and utterly
+inhospitable country.
 
 For four days they wandered, blistered by the sun by day; nearly
 frozen at night, bruised by the rocks, and torn by the brambles.
 Finally they reached the ranch at the head of the canyons and were
-found by a half-breed Indian, who cared for them. Their underwear had
-been made into bindings for their lacerated feet; they were nearly
-starved, and on the verge of mental collapse. After two weeks'
+found by a half-breed Indian, who cared for them. Their underwear
+had been made into bindings for their lacerated feet; they were
+nearly starved, and on the verge of mental collapse. After two weeks’
 treatment in the hospital at Green River City they were partially
-restored to health. Quite likely they spent many of the long hours of
-their convalescence on the river bank, or on the little island,
+restored to health. Quite likely they spent many of the long hours
+of their convalescence on the river bank, or on the little island,
 watching the unruffled stream glide underneath the cottonwoods.
 
 Such tales as this added nothing to our fears, of course--for the
 whole history of the Colorado is one long story of hardship and
 disaster, and we knew, even better than our advisors, what risks lay
 before us. We told our newfound friends, in fact, that we had lived
-for years on the brink of the Grand Canyon itself, a gorge deeper and
-more awful, even, than Lodore; with a volume of water ten times
-greater. We knew, of course, of the river's vast length, of the
+for years on the brink of the Grand Canyon itself, a gorge deeper
+and more awful, even, than Lodore; with a volume of water ten times
+greater. We knew, of course, of the river’s vast length, of the
 terrible gorges that confined it, of the hundreds of rapids through
 which a boat would have to pass.
 
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  IN THE GRAND CANYON NEAR THE LITTLE COLORADO.]
+
 We knew, too, how Major Powell, undismayed by legends of underground
-channels, impassable cataracts, and whirlpools; of bloodthirsty tribes
-haunting its recesses,--had passed through the canyons in safety,
-measuring and surveying as he went. We also knew of the many other
-attempts that had been made--most of them ending in disaster or death,
-a very few being successful.
-
-Well, it had been done;[1] it could be done again--this was our answer
-to their premonitions.
-
-We had present worries enough to keep us from dwelling too much on the
-future. It had been our intention to start two weeks earlier, but
-there had been numerous unavoidable delays. The river was low; "the
-lowest they had seen it in years" they told us, and falling lower
-every day. There were the usual difficulties of arranging a lot of new
-material, and putting it in working order.
+channels, impassable cataracts, and whirlpools; of bloodthirsty
+tribes haunting its recesses,--had passed through the canyons in
+safety, measuring and surveying as he went. We also knew of the
+many other attempts that had been made--most of them ending in
+disaster or death, a very few being successful.
+
+Well, it had been done;[1] it could be done again--this was our
+answer to their premonitions.
+
+We had present worries enough to keep us from dwelling too much on
+the future. It had been our intention to start two weeks earlier, but
+there had been numerous unavoidable delays. The river was low; “the
+lowest they had seen it in years” they told us, and falling lower
+every day. There were the usual difficulties of arranging a lot of
+new material, and putting it in working order.
 
 At last we were ready for the boats, and you may be sure we lost no
 time in having them hauled to the river, and launching them.
 
 They were beauties--these two boats of ours--graceful, yet strong in
 line, floating easily, well up in the water, in spite of their five
-hundred pounds' weight. They were flat-bottomed, with a ten-inch rake
+hundred pounds’ weight. They were flat-bottomed, with a ten-inch rake
 or raise at either end; built of white cedar, with unusually high
 sides; with arched decks in bow and stern, for the safe storing of
-supplies. Sealed air chambers were placed in each end, large enough to
-keep the boats afloat even if filled with water. The compartment at
-the bow was lined with tin, carefully soldered, so that even a leak in
-the bottom would not admit water to our precious cargoes. We had
-placed no limit on their cost, only insisting that they should be of
-materials and workmanship of the very best, and strictly in accordance
-with our specifications. In every respect but one they pleased us.
-Imagine our consternation when we discovered that the hatch covers
-were anything but water-tight, though we had insisted more upon this,
-perhaps, than upon any other detail. Loose boards, with cross-pieces,
-fastened with little thumbscrews--there they were, ready to admit the
-water at the very first upset.
+supplies. Sealed air chambers were placed in each end, large enough
+to keep the boats afloat even if filled with water. The compartment
+at the bow was lined with tin, carefully soldered, so that even a
+leak in the bottom would not admit water to our precious cargoes. We
+had placed no limit on their cost, only insisting that they should
+be of materials and workmanship of the very best, and strictly in
+accordance with our specifications. In every respect but one they
+pleased us. Imagine our consternation when we discovered that the
+hatch covers were anything but water-tight, though we had insisted
+more upon this, perhaps, than upon any other detail. Loose boards,
+with cross-pieces, fastened with little thumbscrews--there they were,
+ready to admit the water at the very first upset.
 
 There was nothing to be done. It was too late to rebuild the hatches
-even if we had had the proper material. Owing to the stage of water it
-was imperative that we should start at once. Bad as it would be to
-have water in our cargo, it would be worse to have too little water in
-the rock-obstructed channels of Red Canyon, or in the "flats" at
-Brown's Park for instance.
+even if we had had the proper material. Owing to the stage of water
+it was imperative that we should start at once. Bad as it would be to
+have water in our cargo, it would be worse to have too little water
+in the rock-obstructed channels of Red Canyon, or in the “flats” at
+Brown’s Park for instance.
 
 Certainly the boats acted so beautifully in the water that we could
 almost overlook the defective hatches. Emery rowed upstream for a
 hundred yards, against a stiff current, and came back jubilant.
 
-"They're great--simply great!" he exclaimed.
+“They’re great--simply great!” he exclaimed.
 
 We had one real cause for worry, for actual anxiety, though; and as
-each hour brought us nearer to the time of departure, we grew more and
-more desperate. What about our third man?
+each hour brought us nearer to the time of departure, we grew more
+and more desperate. What about our third man?
 
 We were convinced that a third man was needed; if not for the duties
 of camp making, helping with the cooking and portaging; at least, for
-turning the crank of the motion-picture camera. Emery and I could not
-very well be running rapids, and photographing ourselves in the rapids
-at the same time. Without a capable assistant, therefore, much of the
-real purpose would be defeated.
+turning the crank of the motion-picture camera. Emery and I could
+not very well be running rapids, and photographing ourselves in the
+rapids at the same time. Without a capable assistant, therefore, much
+of the real purpose would be defeated.
 
 Our first move, accordingly, had been to secure the services of a
 strong, level-headed, and competent man. Friends strongly advised us
-to engage a Canadian canoe-man, or at least some one familiar with the
-management of boats in rough water. It was suggested, also, that we
-might secure the help of some one of the voyagers who had been members
-of one of the previous expeditions.
+to engage a Canadian canoe-man, or at least some one familiar with
+the management of boats in rough water. It was suggested, also, that
+we might secure the help of some one of the voyagers who had been
+members of one of the previous expeditions.
 
 But--we may as well be frank about it--we did not wish to be piloted
-through the Colorado by a guide. We wanted to make our own trip in our
-own way. If we failed, we would have no one but ourselves to blame; if
-we succeeded, we would have all the satisfaction that comes from
-original, personal exploration. In other words, we wanted a man to
-execute orders, not to give them. But that man was hard to find!
-
-There had been many applicants; some of them from distant parts of the
-country. One by one they were sifted out. At length we decided on one
-man; but later he withdrew. We turned elsewhere, but these
-applications were withdrawn, until there remained but a single letter,
-from a young man in San Francisco. He seemed in every way qualified.
-We wrote accepting his application, but while waiting to hear from us
-a civil service position had been offered and accepted. "He was
-sorry"; and so were we, for his references proved that he was a
-capable man. Later he wrote that he had secured a substitute. We
-replied on the instant, by wiring money for transportation, with
-instructions for the new man to report at once at Green River. We took
-very much for granted, having confidence in our friends' sincerity and
-knowledge of just what was required.
+through the Colorado by a guide. We wanted to make our own trip in
+our own way. If we failed, we would have no one but ourselves to
+blame; if we succeeded, we would have all the satisfaction that comes
+from original, personal exploration. In other words, we wanted a man
+to execute orders, not to give them. But that man was hard to find!
+
+There had been many applicants; some of them from distant parts of
+the country. One by one they were sifted out. At length we decided
+on one man; but later he withdrew. We turned elsewhere, but these
+applications were withdrawn, until there remained but a single
+letter, from a young man in San Francisco. He seemed in every way
+qualified. We wrote accepting his application, but while waiting to
+hear from us a civil service position had been offered and accepted.
+“He was sorry”; and so were we, for his references proved that he
+was a capable man. Later he wrote that he had secured a substitute.
+We replied on the instant, by wiring money for transportation, with
+instructions for the new man to report at once at Green River.
+We took very much for granted, having confidence in our friends’
+sincerity and knowledge of just what was required.
 
 The time had passed, two days before; but--no sign of our man! We
 wrote, we telegraphed, we walked back and forth to every train; but
 still he did not come. Had this man, too, failed us?
 
-Then "Jimmy" came--just the night before we were to leave. And never
+Then “Jimmy” came--just the night before we were to leave. And never
 was a man more heartily welcome!
 
 With James Fagen of San Francisco our party was complete. He was an
 Irish-American, aged 22 years, a strong, active, and willing chap. To
-be sure, he was younger, and not so experienced at "roughing it" as we
-had hoped. But his good qualities, we were sure, would make up for
+be sure, he was younger, and not so experienced at “roughing it” as
+we had hoped. But his good qualities, we were sure, would make up for
 what was lacking.
 
+  [Illustration: THE START AT GREEN RIVER, WYOMING.]
+
+  [Illustration: FIRE HOLE CHIMNEYS.]
+
 Evening found us encamped a half mile below the town, the county
 bridge. Our preparations were finished--even to the final purchase of
 odds and ends; with ammunition for shot-gun and rifle. We threw our
-sleeping-bags on the dry ground close to the river's edge, and, all
+sleeping-bags on the dry ground close to the river’s edge, and, all
 our anxieties gone, we turned our faces to the stars and slept.
 
 At daybreak we were aroused by the thunder of hoofs on the bridge
@@ -718,9 +704,9 @@ with ice-cold water from the river, and hurried over to the hotel for
 a last breakfast.
 
 Then we sat down--in the little hotel at Green River City--as others
-had done before, to write last messages to those who were nearest and
-dearest to us. A telegram to our parents in an Eastern city; and
-another to Emery's wife and little girl, at Bright Angel, more than
+had done before, to write last messages to those who were nearest
+and dearest to us. A telegram to our parents in an Eastern city; and
+another to Emery’s wife and little girl, at Bright Angel, more than
 eight hundred miles down this self-same river--these, somehow, took
 longer to write than the letters themselves. But whatever we may have
 felt, we finished this final correspondence in silence, and hurried
@@ -728,9 +714,9 @@ back to the river.
 
 Something of a crowd had gathered on the bridge to wish us _bon
 voyage_. Shouting up to them our thanks for their hospitality, and
-telling them to "look pleasant," we focussed the motion-picture camera
-on them, Emery turning the crank, as the boat swung out into the
-current.
+telling them to “look pleasant,” we focussed the motion-picture
+camera on them, Emery turning the crank, as the boat swung out into
+the current.
 
 So began our journey, on Friday, September the 8th, 1911, at 9.30
 A.M., as entered in my journal.
@@ -740,46 +726,45 @@ A.M., as entered in my journal.
 
 CHAPTER II
 
-
-
 INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING
 
-All this preparation--and still more, the vexatious delays--had been a
-heavy tax upon us. We needed a vacation. We took it--six pleasant
+
+All this preparation--and still more, the vexatious delays--had been
+a heavy tax upon us. We needed a vacation. We took it--six pleasant
 care-free days--hunting and fishing as we drifted through the sixty
-miles of southern Wyoming. There were ducks and geese on the river to
-test our skill with the shot-gun. Only two miles below Green River
-City Emery secured our first duck, a promise of good sport to follow.
-An occasional cottontail rabbit was seen, scurrying to cover through
-the sage-brush, when we made a detour from the boats. We saw many
-jack-rabbits too--with their long legs, and exaggerated
+miles of southern Wyoming. There were ducks and geese on the river
+to test our skill with the shot-gun. Only two miles below Green
+River City Emery secured our first duck, a promise of good sport
+to follow. An occasional cottontail rabbit was seen, scurrying to
+cover through the sage-brush, when we made a detour from the boats.
+We saw many jack-rabbits too--with their long legs, and exaggerated
 ears--creatures swifter, even, than the coyotes themselves.
 
 We saw few people, though an occasional rancher hailed us from the
 shore. Men of the open themselves, the character of our expedition
-appealed to them. Their invitations to "come up to the ranch, and
-spend the evening" were always hearty, and could seldom be refused if
+appealed to them. Their invitations to “come up to the ranch, and
+spend the evening” were always hearty, and could seldom be refused if
 the day was nearly gone.
 
-The Logan boys' ranch, for instance, was our first camp; but will be
-one of the last to be forgotten. The two Logan boys were sturdy,
+The Logan boys’ ranch, for instance, was our first camp; but will
+be one of the last to be forgotten. The two Logan boys were sturdy,
 companionable young men, full of pranks, and of that bubbling,
-generous humour that flourishes in this Western air. We were amused by
-their kindly offer to allow Jimmy to ride "the little bay"--a
-beautiful animal, with the shifty eye of a criminal. But Jimmy, though
-city-bred, was not to be trapped, and declined; very wisely, as we
-thought. We photographed their favourite horses, and the cabin; also
-helped them with their own camera, and developed some plates in the
-underground storm-cellar,--a perfect dark-room, as it happened.
+generous humour that flourishes in this Western air. We were amused
+by their kindly offer to allow Jimmy to ride “the little bay”--a
+beautiful animal, with the shifty eye of a criminal. But Jimmy,
+though city-bred, was not to be trapped, and declined; very wisely,
+as we thought. We photographed their favourite horses, and the cabin;
+also helped them with their own camera, and developed some plates in
+the underground storm-cellar,--a perfect dark-room, as it happened.
 
 We took advantage of this pleasant camp to make a few alterations
-about our boats. Certain mechanical details had been neglected in our
-desire to be off, our intention being to look after them as occasion
-demanded. Our short run had already shown us where we were weak or
-unprepared. The rowlocks needed strengthening. One had come apart in
-our first brush with a little riffle. The rowlocks were of a
-little-used type, but very serviceable in dangerous waters. Inside the
-usual rowlock a heavy ring was hung, kept in place by strong
+about our boats. Certain mechanical details had been neglected in
+our desire to be off, our intention being to look after them as
+occasion demanded. Our short run had already shown us where we were
+weak or unprepared. The rowlocks needed strengthening. One had come
+apart in our first brush with a little riffle. The rowlocks were of
+a little-used type, but very serviceable in dangerous waters. Inside
+the usual rowlock a heavy ring was hung, kept in place by strong
 set-screws, but allowing full play in every direction. These rings
 were slipped over the oars; then the usual leather collar was nailed
 on the oar, making it impossible for the rings to become separated
@@ -789,48 +774,50 @@ might occur, and hung another lock of the open type on a cord, beside
 each oar, ready for instant use in case of emergency.
 
 The Logan boys, seeing our difficulties in making some of these
-changes, came to our relief. "Help yourselves to the blacksmith shop,"
-they said heartily. Here was an opportunity. Much time was consumed in
-providing a device to hold our extra oars--out of the way on top of
-the deck, but available at a moment's notice. Thanks to the Logan boys
-and their blacksmith shop, these and many other little details were
-corrected once for all; and we launched our boats in confidence on the
-morning of September 10.
+changes, came to our relief. “Help yourselves to the blacksmith
+shop,” they said heartily. Here was an opportunity. Much time was
+consumed in providing a device to hold our extra oars--out of the way
+on top of the deck, but available at a moment’s notice. Thanks to the
+Logan boys and their blacksmith shop, these and many other little
+details were corrected once for all; and we launched our boats in
+confidence on the morning of September 10.
 
 A few miles below we came to the locally famous Fire Hole Chimneys,
 interesting examples of the butte formation, so typical of the West.
 There were several of these buttes, about 800 feet high, composed of
 stratified rock; in colour quite similar to the rocks at Green River
-City, but capped with rock of a peculiar burnt appearance, though not
-of volcanic origin. Some of the buttes sloped up from the very edge of
-the river; others were separated from the river by low flats, covered
-with sage-brush and bunch-grass,--that nutritious food of the range
-stock. At the water's edge was the usual fringe of willows,
+City, but capped with rock of a peculiar burnt appearance, though
+not of volcanic origin. Some of the buttes sloped up from the very
+edge of the river; others were separated from the river by low flats,
+covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass,--that nutritious food of the
+range stock. At the water’s edge was the usual fringe of willows,
 cottonwoods, and shrubs innumerable,--all mirrored in the limpid
 surface of Green River.
 
-At the foot of the cliffs were a number of wild burros, old and
-young--fuzzy little baby-burros, looking ridiculously like
+  [Illustration: A TYPICAL BUTTE FORMATION.]
+
+At the foot of the cliffs were a number of wild burros, old
+and young--fuzzy little baby-burros, looking ridiculously like
 jack-rabbits--snorting their indignation at our invasion of their
 privacy. Strange, by the way, how quickly these wild asses lose their
 wildness of carriage when broken, and lapse into the utmost docility!
 
-Just below the Chimneys Emery caught sight of fish gathered in a deep
-pool, under the foliage of a cottonwood tree which had fallen into the
-river. Our most tempting bait failed to interest them; so Emery, ever
-clever with hook and line, "snagged" one just to teach them better
-manners. It was a Colorado River salmon or whitefish. That evening I
-"snagged" a catfish and used this for salmon bait, a fourteen-pound
-specimen rewarding the attempt.
+Just below the Chimneys Emery caught sight of fish gathered in a
+deep pool, under the foliage of a cottonwood tree which had fallen
+into the river. Our most tempting bait failed to interest them; so
+Emery, ever clever with hook and line, “snagged” one just to teach
+them better manners. It was a Colorado River salmon or whitefish.
+That evening I “snagged” a catfish and used this for salmon bait, a
+fourteen-pound specimen rewarding the attempt.
 
-These salmon were old friends of ours, being found from one end to the
-other of the Colorado, and on all its tributaries. They sometimes
+These salmon were old friends of ours, being found from one end to
+the other of the Colorado, and on all its tributaries. They sometimes
 weigh twenty-five or thirty pounds, and are common at twenty pounds;
-being stockily built fish, with large, flat heads. They are not gamey,
-but afford a lot of meat with a very satisfying flavour.
+being stockily built fish, with large, flat heads. They are not
+gamey, but afford a lot of meat with a very satisfying flavour.
 
 On September 11, about forty miles below Green River, we passed
-Black's Fork, a tributary entering from the west. It is a stream of
+Black’s Fork, a tributary entering from the west. It is a stream of
 considerable length, but was of little volume at that time. The banks
 were cliffs about 300 feet high, rugged, dark, and overhanging. Here
 were a half dozen eagles and many old nests--proof enough, if proof
@@ -838,7 +825,7 @@ were needed, that we were in a little visited country. What strong,
 splendid birds they were; how powerful and graceful their flight as
 they circled up, and up, into the clear blue sky!
 
-Our next camp was at the Holmes' ranch, a few miles below Black's
+Our next camp was at the Holmes’ ranch, a few miles below Black’s
 Fork. We tried to buy some eggs of Walter Holmes, and were told that
 we could have them on one condition--that we visit him that evening.
 This was a price we were only too glad to pay, and the evening will
@@ -846,43 +833,44 @@ linger long in our memories.
 
 Mr. Holmes entertained us with stories of hunting trips--after big
 game in the wilds of Colorado; and among the lakes of the Wind River
-Mountains, the distant source of the Green River. Mrs. Holmes and two
-young ladies entertained us with music; and Jimmy, much to our
-surprise, joined in with a full, rich baritone. It was late that night
-when we rolled ourselves in our blankets, on the banks twenty feet
-above the river.
-
-Next morning we were shown a group of Mrs. Holmes' pets--several young
-rabbits and a kitten, romping together in the utmost good fellowship.
-The rabbits had been rescued from a watery grave in an irrigation
-ditch and carefully nursed back to life. We helped her search for a
-lame wild duck that had spurned the offer of a good home with
-civilized ducklings, and had taken to the sage-brush. Mrs. Holmes'
-love of wild animals, however, failed to include the bald-headed eagle
-that had shown such an appetite for her spring chickens.
-
-A few miles below this ranch we passed Bridger Crossing, a ford on an
-old trail through southern Wyoming. In pioneer days Jim Bridger's home
-was on this very spot. But those romantic days are long since past;
-and where this world-famous scout once watched through the loopholes
-of his barricade, was an amazed youngster ten or eleven years old who
-gazed on us, then ran to the cabin and emerged with a rifle in his
-hands. We thought little of this incident at the time, but later we
-met the father of the boy and were told that the children had been
-left alone with the small boy as their only protector, and that he
-stood ready to defend the home against any possible marauders. No
-doubt we looked bad enough to him.
+Mountains, the distant source of the Green River. Mrs. Holmes and
+two young ladies entertained us with music; and Jimmy, much to our
+surprise, joined in with a full, rich baritone. It was late that
+night when we rolled ourselves in our blankets, on the banks twenty
+feet above the river.
+
+Next morning we were shown a group of Mrs. Holmes’ pets--several
+young rabbits and a kitten, romping together in the utmost good
+fellowship. The rabbits had been rescued from a watery grave in an
+irrigation ditch and carefully nursed back to life. We helped her
+search for a lame wild duck that had spurned the offer of a good
+home with civilized ducklings, and had taken to the sage-brush.
+Mrs. Holmes’ love of wild animals, however, failed to include the
+bald-headed eagle that had shown such an appetite for her spring
+chickens.
+
+A few miles below this ranch we passed Bridger Crossing, a ford on
+an old trail through southern Wyoming. In pioneer days Jim Bridger’s
+home was on this very spot. But those romantic days are long since
+past; and where this world-famous scout once watched through the
+loopholes of his barricade, was an amazed youngster ten or eleven
+years old who gazed on us, then ran to the cabin and emerged with
+a rifle in his hands. We thought little of this incident at the
+time, but later we met the father of the boy and were told that
+the children had been left alone with the small boy as their only
+protector, and that he stood ready to defend the home against any
+possible marauders. No doubt we looked bad enough to him.
 
 Just below the ford the channel widened, and the river became very
-shallow, the low rolling hills falling away into a wide green prairie.
-We camped that night on a small island, low and treeless, but covered
-with deep, rank grass. Next morning our sleeping-bags were wet with
-frost and dew. A hard pull against a heavy wind between gradually
-deepening rocky banks made us more than glad to pitch camp at noon a
-short distance above the mouth of Henry's Fork, a considerable stream
-flowing from the west. In the afternoon Emery and I decided to walk to
-Linwood, lying just across the Utah line, four miles up Henry's Fork.
-Jimmy preferred to remain with the boats.
+shallow, the low rolling hills falling away into a wide green
+prairie. We camped that night on a small island, low and treeless,
+but covered with deep, rank grass. Next morning our sleeping-bags
+were wet with frost and dew. A hard pull against a heavy wind between
+gradually deepening rocky banks made us more than glad to pitch
+camp at noon a short distance above the mouth of Henry’s Fork, a
+considerable stream flowing from the west. In the afternoon Emery and
+I decided to walk to Linwood, lying just across the Utah line, four
+miles up Henry’s Fork. Jimmy preferred to remain with the boats.
 
 Between the river and a low mesa lay a large ranch of a different
 appearance from those others which we had passed. Those past were
@@ -892,77 +880,83 @@ broad acres, fenced and cultivated, with thoroughbred stock--horses
 and cattle--contentedly grazing.
 
 This pastoral scene, with a background of rugged mountains, appealed
-strongly to our photographic instincts. After three or four exposures,
-we climbed the farthest fence and passing from alfalfa to sage-brush
-in one step, were at the foot of the mesa.
-
-Climbing to the summit, we beheld the village in the distance, in a
-beautiful green valley--a splendid example of Mormon irrigation and
-farming methods. Linwood proved to be the market-place for all the
-ranchers of this region. Dotting the foot-hills where water was less
-plentiful were occasional cabins, set down in the middle of hay
-ranches. All this husbandry only emphasized the surrounding
+strongly to our photographic instincts. After three or four
+exposures, we climbed the farthest fence and passing from alfalfa to
+sage-brush in one step, were at the foot of the mesa.
+
+Climbing to the summit, we beheld the village in the distance, in
+a beautiful green valley--a splendid example of Mormon irrigation
+and farming methods. Linwood proved to be the market-place for all
+the ranchers of this region. Dotting the foot-hills where water
+was less plentiful were occasional cabins, set down in the middle
+of hay ranches. All this husbandry only emphasized the surrounding
 desolation. Just beyond, dark in the southern sky, rose the great
 peaks of the Uintah range, the mountains we were so soon to enter.
 
-Storm-clouds had been gathering about one great snow-covered peak, far
-in the distance. These clouds spread and darkened, moving rapidly
-forward. We had taken the hint and were already making all possible
-haste toward the town, hoping to reach it before the storm broke. But
-it was useless. Long before we had gained the edge of the valley the
-rain had commenced in the mountains,--small local storms, resembling
-delicate violet-coloured veils, hung in the dense pall of the clouds.
-There were far flashes of lightning, and the subdued roar of distant
-thunder, rapidly growing louder as the storm approached. Unable to
-escape a drenching, we paused a moment to wonder at the sight; to
-marvel--and shrink a little too--at the wild, incessant lightning. The
-peaks themselves seemed to be tumbling together, such was the
-continuous roar of thunder, punctuated by frequent deafening crashes.
-
-Then the storm came down upon us. Such torrents of rain we have seldom
-witnessed: such gusts of driving wind! At times we could scarcely make
-headway against it, but after most strenuous effort we neared the
-village. We hoped to find shelter under a bridge, but found
-innumerable muddy streams running through the planks. So we resumed
-our plodding, slipping and sliding in the black, bottomless mud.
+  [Illustration:
+  E. L. KOLB.    EMERY KOLB.    H. LAUZON.   _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  BOATS AND CREW. PHOTO TAKEN IN THE GRAND CANYON.]
+
+Storm-clouds had been gathering about one great snow-covered peak,
+far in the distance. These clouds spread and darkened, moving rapidly
+forward. We had taken the hint and were already making all
+possible haste toward the town, hoping to reach it before the storm
+broke. But it was useless. Long before we had gained the edge of the
+valley the rain had commenced in the mountains,--small local storms,
+resembling delicate violet-coloured veils, hung in the dense pall of
+the clouds. There were far flashes of lightning, and the subdued roar
+of distant thunder, rapidly growing louder as the storm approached.
+Unable to escape a drenching, we paused a moment to wonder at the
+sight; to marvel--and shrink a little too--at the wild, incessant
+lightning. The peaks themselves seemed to be tumbling together, such
+was the continuous roar of thunder, punctuated by frequent deafening
+crashes.
+
+Then the storm came down upon us. Such torrents of rain we have
+seldom witnessed: such gusts of driving wind! At times we could
+scarcely make headway against it, but after most strenuous effort
+we neared the village. We hoped to find shelter under a bridge, but
+found innumerable muddy streams running through the planks. So we
+resumed our plodding, slipping and sliding in the black, bottomless
+mud.
 
 The storm by this time had passed as quickly as it came. Wet to our
 skins, we crawled into the little store and post-office combined,
 and found it filled with ranch hands, waiting for the weekly mail.
 We made a few purchases, wrote some letters, then went to a large
-boarding-house near by and fortified ourselves with a generous,
-hot supper.
-
-There were comments by some of the men on our venture, but they lacked
-the true Green River tang. Here, close to the upper canyons, the
-unreasonable fear of the rapids gave way to a reasonable respect for
-them. Here we heard again of the two young men from St. Louis, and the
-mishaps that had befallen them. Here too we were to hear for the first
-time of the two Snyders, father and son, and the misfortunes that had
-overtaken them in Lodore Canyon, twenty years before. We were to hear
-more of these men later.
-
-We made what haste we could back to our boats, soon being overtaken by
-a horseman, a big-hearted Swede who insisted on carrying our load as
-long as we were going in his direction. How many just such instances
-of kindliness we were to experience on our journey down the river! How
-the West abounds with such men! It was dark when he left us a mile
-from the river. Here there was no road to follow, and we found that
-what had been numerous dry gullies before were now streams of muddy
-water. Two or three of these streams had to be crossed, and we had a
-disagreeable half hour in a marsh. Finally we reached the river, but
-not at the point where we had left our boats. We were uncertain
-whether the camp was above or below us, and called loudly for Jimmy,
-but received no answer.
+boarding-house near by and fortified ourselves with a generous, hot
+supper.
+
+There were comments by some of the men on our venture, but they
+lacked the true Green River tang. Here, close to the upper canyons,
+the unreasonable fear of the rapids gave way to a reasonable respect
+for them. Here we heard again of the two young men from St. Louis,
+and the mishaps that had befallen them. Here too we were to hear
+for the first time of the two Snyders, father and son, and the
+misfortunes that had overtaken them in Lodore Canyon, twenty years
+before. We were to hear more of these men later.
+
+We made what haste we could back to our boats, soon being overtaken
+by a horseman, a big-hearted Swede who insisted on carrying our
+load as long as we were going in his direction. How many just such
+instances of kindliness we were to experience on our journey down the
+river! How the West abounds with such men! It was dark when he left
+us a mile from the river. Here there was no road to follow, and we
+found that what had been numerous dry gullies before were now streams
+of muddy water. Two or three of these streams had to be crossed, and
+we had a disagreeable half hour in a marsh. Finally we reached the
+river, but not at the point where we had left our boats. We were
+uncertain whether the camp was above or below us, and called loudly
+for Jimmy, but received no answer.
 
 Emery felt sure that camp was upstream. So upstream we went, keeping
 back of the bushes that fringed the banks, carefully searching for a
-sign. After a few minutes' hunt we heard a sound: a subdued rumble,
-not unlike the distant thunder heard that afternoon, or of boats being
-dragged over the pebbles. What could it be? We listened again,
+sign. After a few minutes’ hunt we heard a sound: a subdued rumble,
+not unlike the distant thunder heard that afternoon, or of boats
+being dragged over the pebbles. What could it be? We listened again,
 carefully this time, and discovered that it came from a point about
-thirty feet away, on the opposite side of the bushes. It could be only
-one thing. Jimmy's snore had brought us home!
+thirty feet away, on the opposite side of the bushes. It could be
+only one thing. Jimmy’s snore had brought us home!
 
 Hurriedly securing some dry clothes from the rubber sacks, which
 contained our sleeping-bags as well, we made a quick change, and slid
@@ -974,13 +968,12 @@ were inside. Then we lay down contentedly to rest.
 
 CHAPTER III
 
-
-
 THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS
 
+
 We awoke the next morning full of anticipation. Something new lay
-ahead of us, a promise of variety. In plain sight of our camp lay the
-entrance to Flaming Gorge, the gateway to the entire series of
+ahead of us, a promise of variety. In plain sight of our camp lay
+the entrance to Flaming Gorge, the gateway to the entire series of
 canyons. Hurriedly finishing our camp duties, we loaded the boats,
 fastened down the hatches, and shoved off into the current, eager to
 be on our way.
@@ -990,13 +983,16 @@ Even then it must have been raining away to the north, for a dirty,
 clay-colored torrent rushed through the dry arroyo of the night
 before, a stream large enough to discolour the water of the Green
 itself. But we thought little of this. We were used to seeing muddy
-water in the Colorado's gorges; in fact we were surprised to find
+water in the Colorado’s gorges; in fact we were surprised to find
 clear water at all, even in the Green River. Rowing downstream we
 found that the country sloped gently towards the mountains. The river
 skirted the edge of these foot-hills as if looking for a possible
 escape, then turned and entered the mountain at a sharp angle. The
-walls sloped back considerably at first, and there was a little shore
-on either side.
+walls sloped back considerably at first, and there was a little
+shore on either side.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  SKELETON FOUND IN THE GRAND CANYON.]
 
 Somewhere near this point runs the dividing line of Wyoming and Utah.
 
@@ -1006,94 +1002,101 @@ owing to the condition of the light and the motion of the boat. Still
 it was considered worthy of a trial, and the film was run through.
 
 The colour of the rocks at the entrance was a light red, but not out
-of the ordinary in brilliancy. The rock formation was stratified, but
-displaced; standing at an angle and flexed over on top with a ragged
-break here and there, showing plainly the great pressure to which the
-rocks had been subjected. The upheaval was not violent, the scientists
-tell us, but slow and even, allowing the river to maintain its old
-channel, sawing its way through the sandstone. The broken canyon
-walls, when well inside the gorge, were about 600 to 700 feet high.
-The mountains beyond and on either side were much higher. The growth
-on the mountain sides was principally evergreen; Douglas fir, the
-bull-pine and yellow pine. There was a species of juniper, somewhat
-different from the Utah juniper, with which we were familiar at the
-Grand Canyon. Bushes and undergrowth were dense above the steep canyon
-walls, which were bare. Willows, alder-thickets, and a few cottonwood
-trees lined the shores.
+of the ordinary in brilliancy. The rock formation was stratified,
+but displaced; standing at an angle and flexed over on top with a
+ragged break here and there, showing plainly the great pressure to
+which the rocks had been subjected. The upheaval was not violent, the
+scientists tell us, but slow and even, allowing the river to maintain
+its old channel, sawing its way through the sandstone. The broken
+canyon walls, when well inside the gorge, were about 600 to 700 feet
+high. The mountains beyond and on either side were much higher. The
+growth on the mountain sides was principally evergreen; Douglas
+fir, the bull-pine and yellow pine. There was a species of juniper,
+somewhat different from the Utah juniper, with which we were familiar
+at the Grand Canyon. Bushes and undergrowth were dense above the
+steep canyon walls, which were bare. Willows, alder-thickets, and a
+few cottonwood trees lined the shores.
 
 Meanwhile the current had quickened, almost imperceptibly at first,
-but enough to put us on our guard. While there were no rapids, use was
-made of what swift water we found by practising on the method we would
-use in making a passage through the bad rapids. As to this method,
-unused as yet by either of us, we had received careful verbal
-instruction from Mr. Stone, who had made the trip two years before our
-own venture; and from other friends of Nathan Galloway, the trapper,
-the man who first introduced the method on the Green and Colorado
-rivers.
+but enough to put us on our guard. While there were no rapids, use
+was made of what swift water we found by practising on the method
+we would use in making a passage through the bad rapids. As to this
+method, unused as yet by either of us, we had received careful verbal
+instruction from Mr. Stone, who had made the trip two years before
+our own venture; and from other friends of Nathan Galloway, the
+trapper, the man who first introduced the method on the Green and
+Colorado rivers.
 
 Our experience on water of any kind was rather limited. Emery could
-row a boat, and row it well, before we left Green River, but had never
-gone over any large rapids. While he was not nearly so large or heavy
-as I,--weighing no more than 130 pounds, while I weighed 170
-pounds,--he made up for his lighter weight by a quickness and strength
-that often surprised me. He was always neat and clever in his method
-of handling his boat, taking a great deal of pride in keeping it free
-from marks, and avoiding rocks when making a landing. I had done very
-little rowing before leaving Green River, so little that I had
-difficulty in getting both oars in the water at the same time. Of
-course it did not take me long to learn that; but I did not have the
-knack of making clean landings, and bumped many rocks that my brother
-missed. Still I was improving all the time and was anxious to get into
-the rough water, feeling sure I would get through somehow, but doing
-my best in the meantime to get the knack of handling the boat properly
-before the rough water was reached.
-
-An occasional rock would stick up above the surface; the swift water
-would rush up on it, or drive past on either side. Instead of pulling
-downstream with might and main, and depending on a steersman with a
-sweep-oar to keep us clear of obstructions--the method usually adopted
-on large rivers, and by the earlier parties on the Colorado--by our
-method the single oarsman reversed his boat so that it was turned with
-the stern downstream, giving the oarsman a view of what was ahead;
-then by pulling upstream the boat was held in check. We allowed
-ourselves to be carried in a direct line with the rocks ahead,
-approaching them as closely as we dared; then, with a pull on one oar,
-the boat was turned slightly at an angle to the current, and swung to
-one side or the other; just as a ferry is headed into the current, the
-water itself helping to force it across. The ferry is held by a cable;
-the boat, by the oarsman; the results are quite similar.
-
-The boats, too, were somewhat unusual in design, having been carefully
-worked out by Galloway after much experience with the problem, and
-after building many boats. He finally settled on the design furnished
-us by Mr. Stone. The flat bottom, sloping up from the centre to either
-end, placed the boats on a pivot one might say, so that they could be
-turned very quickly, much more quickly than if they had had a keel.
-There was a four foot skag or keel under the stern end of the boat,
-but this was only used when in quiet water; and as it was never
-replaced after being once removed we seldom refer to it. Being
-flat-bottomed, they drew comparatively little water, a matter quite
-important on low water such as we found in the Green River. While each
-boat carried a weight of seven hundred pounds in addition to its own
-five hundred pounds, they often passed over rocks less than ten inches
-below the surface, and did so without touching. While the boats were
-quite large, the arched decks made them look even larger. A
-considerable amount of material could be stored under these decks. The
-only part of the boat that was entirely open or unprotected from the
-waves was the cockpit, or mid-section occupied by the oarsman. This
-was only large enough for one man. A second man had to sit on the deck
-behind the oarsman, with his feet hanging into the cockpit. Jimmy
-occupied this place of honour as we drifted through the placid water;
-first on one boat, then on the other, entertaining us meanwhile with
-his songs.
+row a boat, and row it well, before we left Green River, but had
+never gone over any large rapids. While he was not nearly so large
+or heavy as I,--weighing no more than 130 pounds, while I weighed
+170 pounds,--he made up for his lighter weight by a quickness and
+strength that often surprised me. He was always neat and clever
+in his method of handling his boat, taking a great deal of pride
+in keeping it free from marks, and avoiding rocks when making a
+landing. I had done very little rowing before leaving Green River,
+so little that I had difficulty in getting both oars in the water at
+the same time. Of course it did not take me long to learn that; but
+I did not have the knack of making clean landings, and bumped many
+rocks that my brother missed. Still I was improving all the time and
+was anxious to get into the rough water, feeling sure I would get
+through somehow, but doing my best in the meantime to get the knack
+of handling the boat properly before the rough water was reached.
+
+An occasional rock would stick up above the surface; the swift
+water would rush up on it, or drive past on either side. Instead of
+pulling downstream with might and main, and depending on a steersman
+with a sweep-oar to keep us clear of obstructions--the method
+usually adopted on large rivers, and by the earlier parties on the
+Colorado--by our method the single oarsman reversed his boat so that
+it was turned with the stern downstream, giving the oarsman a view of
+what was ahead; then by pulling upstream the boat was held in check.
+We allowed ourselves to be carried in a direct line with the rocks
+ahead, approaching them as closely as we dared; then, with a pull on
+one oar, the boat was turned slightly at an angle to the current,
+and swung to one side or the other; just as a ferry is headed into
+the current, the water itself helping to force it across. The ferry
+is held by a cable; the boat, by the oarsman; the results are quite
+similar.
+
+The boats, too, were somewhat unusual in design, having been
+carefully worked out by Galloway after much experience with the
+problem, and after building many boats. He finally settled on the
+design furnished us by Mr. Stone. The flat bottom, sloping up from
+the centre to either end, placed the boats on a pivot one might say,
+so that they could be turned very quickly, much more quickly than if
+they had had a keel. There was a four-foot skag or keel under the
+stern end of the boat, but this was only used when in quiet water;
+and as it was never replaced after being once removed we seldom refer
+to it. Being flat-bottomed, they drew comparatively little water, a
+matter quite important on low water such as we found in the Green
+River. While each boat carried a weight of seven hundred pounds in
+addition to its own five hundred pounds, they often passed over rocks
+less than ten inches below the surface, and did so without touching.
+While the boats were quite large, the arched decks made them look
+even larger. A considerable amount of material could be stored under
+these decks. The only part of the boat that was entirely open or
+unprotected from the waves was the cockpit, or mid-section occupied
+by the oarsman. This was only large enough for one man. A second man
+had to sit on the deck behind the oarsman, with his feet hanging
+into the cockpit. Jimmy occupied this place of honour as we drifted
+through the placid water; first on one boat, then on the other,
+entertaining us meanwhile with his songs.
 
 We encountered two splashy little rapids this day, but with no rocks,
 or any dangerous feature whatever. Any method, or none at all, was
 safe enough in these rapids.
 
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  INSIDE OF THE FIRST CANYONS.]
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  TILTED ROCKS AT KINGFISHER CANYON.]
+
 The colouring of the rocks changed as we proceeded, and at the lower
-end of the short canyon we saw the flaming patch of colour that had
-suggested its name to Major Powell, forty-two years before.
+end of the short canyon we saw the flaming patch of colour that
+had suggested its name to Major Powell, forty-two years before.
 Intensified on that occasion by the reflected light of a gorgeous
 sunset, it must have been a most brilliant spectacle.
 
@@ -1103,43 +1106,44 @@ them undisturbed. Some geese decoyed us into an attempt to ambush
 them, but they kept always just out of reach of our guns. Wise
 fellows, those geese!
 
-A geological fault accompanied by the breaking down of the walls marks
-the division between Flaming Gorge and Horseshoe Canyon, which
+A geological fault accompanied by the breaking down of the walls
+marks the division between Flaming Gorge and Horseshoe Canyon, which
 immediately follows. We nooned here, opposite a deserted cabin. A
 trail dropped by easy stages over the slope on the east side; and
 fresh tracks showed that sheep had recently been driven down to the
-water's edge.
-
-Passing through Horseshoe,--another very short canyon,--we found deep,
-placid pools, and sheer, light red walls rising about four hundred
-feet on either side, then sloping back steeply to the tree-covered
-mountains. In the middle of this canyon Emery was startled out of a
-day-dream by a rock falling into the water close beside him, with
-never a sound of warning. Years spent in the canyons had accustomed
-Emery and me to such occurrences; but Jimmy, unused to great gorges
-and towering cliffs, was much impressed by this incident. After all,
-it is only the unusual that is terrible. Jimmy was ready enough to
-take his chances at dodging bricks hurled by a San Francisco
-earthquake, but never got quite used to rocks descending from a source
-altogether out of sight. Small wonder, after all! Later we were to
-experience more of this thing, and on a scale to startle a stoic!
-
-We halted at the end of Horseshoe, early in the afternoon of September
-14, 1911, one week out from Green River City. Camp No. 6 was pitched
-on a gravelly shore beside Sheep Creek, a clear sparkling stream,
-coming in from the slopes of the Uintah range. Just above us, on the
-west, rose three jagged cliffs, about five hundred feet high,
-reminding one by their shape of the Three Brothers of Yosemite Valley.
-Here, again, we were treated to another wonderful example of geologic
-displacement, the rocks of Horseshoe Canyon lying in level strata;
-while those of Kingfisher, which followed, were standing on end. Sheep
-Creek, flowing from the west, finds an easy course through the fault,
-at the division of the canyons. The balance of this day was spent in
-carefully packing our material and rearranging it in our boats, for we
-expected hard work to follow.
-
-Tempted by the rippling song of the brook, and by tales of fish to be
-found therein, we spent two hours fishing from its banks on the
+water’s edge.
+
+Passing through Horseshoe,--another very short canyon,--we found
+deep, placid pools, and sheer, light red walls rising about four
+hundred feet on either side, then sloping back steeply to the
+tree-covered mountains. In the middle of this canyon Emery was
+startled out of a day-dream by a rock falling into the water close
+beside him, with never a sound of warning. Years spent in the
+canyons had accustomed Emery and me to such occurrences; but Jimmy,
+unused to great gorges and towering cliffs, was much impressed by
+this incident. After all, it is only the unusual that is terrible.
+Jimmy was ready enough to take his chances at dodging bricks hurled
+by a San Francisco earthquake, but never got quite used to rocks
+descending from a source altogether out of sight. Small wonder, after
+all! Later we were to experience more of this thing, and on a scale
+to startle a stoic!
+
+We halted at the end of Horseshoe, early in the afternoon of
+September 14, 1911, one week out from Green River City. Camp No. 6
+was pitched on a gravelly shore beside Sheep Creek, a clear sparkling
+stream, coming in from the slopes of the Uintah range. Just above
+us, on the west, rose three jagged cliffs, about five hundred feet
+high, reminding one by their shape of the Three Brothers of Yosemite
+Valley. Here, again, we were treated to another wonderful example of
+geologic displacement, the rocks of Horseshoe Canyon lying in level
+strata; while those of Kingfisher, which followed, were standing on
+end. Sheep Creek, flowing from the west, finds an easy course through
+the fault, at the division of the canyons. The balance of this day
+was spent in carefully packing our material and rearranging it in our
+boats, for we expected hard work to follow.
+
+Tempted by the rippling song of the brook, and by tales of fish to
+be found therein, we spent two hours fishing from its banks on the
 morning of the 15th. But the foliage of overhanging trees and shrubs
 was dense, making it difficult to cast our lines, or even to climb
 along its shores, and our small catch of two trout, which were fried
@@ -1149,44 +1153,45 @@ more.
 It was a little late in the season for many birds. Here in Kingfisher
 Canyon were a few of the fish-catching birds from which the canyon
 took its name. There were many of the tireless cliff-swallows
-scattered all through these canyons, wheeling and darting, ever on the
-wing. These, with the noisy crested jays, an occasional "camp-robber,"
-the little nuthatches, the cheerful canyon wren with his rollicking
-song, the happy water-ousel, "kill-deer," and road-runners and the
-water birds,--ducks, geese, and mud-hens, with an occasional
-crane,--made up the bird life seen in the open country and in these
-upper canyons. Earlier in the season it must be a bird's paradise, for
-berries and seeds would then be plentiful.
-
-We resumed our journey at 10 A.M., a very short run bringing us to the
-end of Kingfisher Canyon. The three canyons passed through approximate
-hardly more than ten miles in length, different names being given for
-geological reasons, as they really form only one canyon. The walls at
-the end were broken down, and brilliantly tinted talus of many hues
-covered the slopes, the different colours intermingling near the
-bottom. The canyon-walled river turned southeast here, and continued
-in this general direction for many miles, but with many twists and
-turns.
+scattered all through these canyons, wheeling and darting, ever
+on the wing. These, with the noisy crested jays, an occasional
+“camp-robber,” the little nuthatches, the cheerful canyon wren
+with his rollicking song, the happy water-ousel, “kill-deer,” and
+road-runners and the water birds,--ducks, geese, and mud-hens, with
+an occasional crane,--made up the bird life seen in the open country
+and in these upper canyons. Earlier in the season it must be a bird’s
+paradise, for berries and seeds would then be plentiful.
+
+We resumed our journey at 10 A.M., a very short run bringing us
+to the end of Kingfisher Canyon. The three canyons passed through
+approximate hardly more than ten miles in length, different names
+being given for geological reasons, as they really form only one
+canyon. The walls at the end were broken down, and brilliantly
+tinted talus of many hues covered the slopes, the different colours
+intermingling near the bottom. The canyon-walled river turned
+southeast here, and continued in this general direction for many
+miles, but with many twists and turns.
 
 We had previously been informed that Red Canyon, the next to follow,
 while not considered bad when compared to others, gave one the
 experience most necessary to combat the rapids farther down. It was
 not without danger, however, as a review of previous expeditions
 showed: some had lost their lives, still others, their boats; and one
-of Major Powell's parties had upset a boat in a Red Canyon rapid. The
-stage of water was so different on these previous attempts that their
-experiences were of little value to us one way or the other. A
+of Major Powell’s parties had upset a boat in a Red Canyon rapid.
+The stage of water was so different on these previous attempts that
+their experiences were of little value to us one way or the other. A
 reference to pictures taken by two of these parties showed us there
 was considerable more water when they went through--six, and even
-eight feet higher in places. Possibly this would be the best stage on
-which to make the voyage in heavy boats. The unfortunate ones had
+eight feet higher in places. Possibly this would be the best stage
+on which to make the voyage in heavy boats. The unfortunate ones had
 taken the spring rise, or flood water, with disastrous results to
 themselves or their boats.
 
-We soon found that our passage was to be hard on account of having too
-little water. In the quiet water above we had been seldom bothered
-with shoals; but now that we were in swifter water, there was scarcely
-any depth to it at all, except in the quiet pools between the rapids.
+We soon found that our passage was to be hard on account of having
+too little water. In the quiet water above we had been seldom
+bothered with shoals; but now that we were in swifter water, there
+was scarcely any depth to it at all, except in the quiet pools
+between the rapids.
 
 For a description of our passage through this upper end of Red Canyon
 we refer to our journal: sketchy notes jotted down, usually in the
@@ -1194,134 +1199,124 @@ evening just before retiring, by the light of a camp-fire, or the
 flickering flame of a candle. Under the date of Friday, September the
 15th, we find the following:
 
-     "End of Kingfisher: long, quiet pools and shoals where we
-     grounded a few times; several small, splashy rapids; then a
-     larger one near an old boat landing. Looked the rapid over
-     from the shore. Jim remained at the lower end with a
-     life-preserver on a rope, while we ran the rapid. Struck one
-     or two rocks, lightly; but made the run in safety."
-
-     "At the third rapid we saw some geese--but they got away. At
-     noon we ate a cold lunch and because of the low water
-     removed the skags, carrying them in the cockpit. The scenery
-     in upper Red Canyon is impressive: pines and fir come down
-     on the sloping sides to the river's edge; the rocks are
-     reddish brown in colour, often broken in squares, and
-     looking like great building blocks piled one upon another.
-     The canyon is about fifteen hundred feet deep; the river is
-     clear again, and averages about two hundred feet in width.
-     We have seen a few deer tracks, but have not seen any deer.
-     We also saw some jumping trout in a splashy little rapid.
-     Doubtless they came from a little creek, close by, for we
-     never heard of trout being found in the Green River."
-
-     "We made a motion picture, while dropping our boats down
-     with lines, over the first rapid we considered bad. Emery
-     remained in the boats, keeping clear of the rocks with a
-     pole. Powell's second party records an upset here. We passed
-     Kettle Creek about 5 P.M. In the fifth rapids below Kettle
-     Creek I got on the wrong side of the river and was carried
-     into a very rocky rapid--the worst so far encountered. I
-     touched a rock or two at the start, but made the run in
-     safety; while Emery ran the opposite side without trouble.
-     We camped beside a small stream on the south, where there
-     were signs of an old camp."
-
-     "_Saturday, September 16_. Clear and cold in the early
-     morning. Started about 9 A.M. Lined our boats past a
-     difficult rapid. Too many rocks, not enough water. Two or
-     three miles below this I had some difficulty in a rapid, as
-     the pin of a rowlock lifted out of the socket when in the
-     middle of rough water. Emery snapped a picture just as it
-     happened. A little later E.C.[2] ran a rocky rapid, but had
-     so much trouble that we concluded to line my boat. Noon.
-     Just a cold lunch, but with hot coffee from the vacuum
-     bottles. Then at it again."
-
-     "The scenery is wonderful; the canyon is deeper than above;
-     the river is swift and has a decided drop. We proceed
-     cautiously, and make slow progress. We camp for the day on
-     the north side close to a little, dry gully, on a level sage
-     and bunch-grass covered bottom back from the river's edge.
-     An abruptly descending canyon banked with small cottonwood
-     trees coming in from the opposite side contains a small
-     stream. Put up our tent for the second time since leaving
-     Green River, Wyoming. We are all weary, and glad to-morrow
-     is Sunday--a day of rest."
-
-     "_Sunday, September 17._ E.C. and I follow a fresh deer
-     track up a game trail and get--a rabbit. Climb out about
-     1300 feet above the river to the top of the narrow canyon.
-     Here is a sloping plateau, dotted with bunch-grass and
-     grease-wood, a fourth of a mile wide. Then rounded mountains
-     rise beyond the plateau, some of the peaks reaching a height
-     of 4000 feet above the river. The opposite side is much the
-     same, but with a wider plateau. We had no idea before what a
-     wonderful country this is. It is a picture to tempt an
-     artist. High on the mountain tops is the dark blue-green of
-     pines and firs, reds and yellows are mixed in the quaking
-     aspen,--for the frost comes early enough to catch the sap in
-     the leaves; little openings, or parks with no trees, are
-     tinted a beautiful soft gray; 'brownstone fronts' are found
-     in the canyon walls; and a very light green in the
-     willow-leafed cottonwoods at the river's edge, and in all
-     side canyons where there is a running stream. The river
-     glistens in the sunlight, as it winds around the base of the
-     wall on which we stand, and then disappears around a bend in
-     the canyon. Turn where we will, we see no sign of an
-     opening, nothing but the rounded tops of wooded mountains,
-     red and green, far as the eye can reach, until they
-     disappear in the hazy blue. Finally Emery's keen eyes, aided
-     by the binoculars, discover a log cabin at the foot of a
-     mountain, on the plateau opposite us about three miles
-     away."
-
-     "We hurry back to camp and write some letters; then Jim and
-     I cross the river and climb out over the rocky walls to the
-     plateau above. In two hours we reach the cabin. It is
-     new--not yet finished. A woman and four children are looking
-     over a garden when we arrive. They are a little frightened
-     at first, but soon recover. The woman gladly promises to
-     take out our mail when they go to the nearest town, which
-     happens to be Vernal, Utah, forty-five miles away. Three
-     other families live near by, all recently moved in from
-     Vernal. The woman tells us that Galloway hunts bear in these
-     timbered mountains, and has killed some with a price on
-     their heads--bear with a perverted taste for fresh beef."[3]
-
-     "Thanking the woman, we make our way back to the river. We
-     see some dried-out elk horns along our trail; though it is
-     doubtful if elk get this far south at present. A deer trail,
-     leading down a ravine, makes our homeward journey much
-     easier. It has turned quite cold this evening, after sunset.
-     We finish our notes and prepare to roll into our beds a
-     little earlier than usual."
+“End of Kingfisher: long, quiet pools and shoals where we grounded a
+few times; several small, splashy rapids; then a larger one near an
+old boat landing. Looked the rapid over from the shore. Jim remained
+at the lower end with a life-preserver on a rope, while we ran the
+rapid. Struck one or two rocks, lightly; but made the run in safety.”
+
+“At the third rapid we saw some geese--but they got away. At noon
+we ate a cold lunch and because of the low water removed the skags,
+carrying them in the cockpit. The scenery in upper Red Canyon is
+impressive: pines and fir come down on the sloping sides to the
+river’s edge; the rocks are reddish brown in colour, often broken
+in squares, and looking like great building blocks piled one upon
+another. The canyon is about fifteen hundred feet deep; the river is
+clear again, and averages about two hundred feet in width. We have
+seen a few deer tracks, but have not seen any deer. We also saw some
+jumping trout in a splashy little rapid. Doubtless they came from a
+little creek, close by, for we never heard of trout being found in
+the Green River.”
+
+“We made a motion picture, while dropping our boats down with lines,
+over the first rapid we considered bad. Emery remained in the boats,
+keeping clear of the rocks with a pole. Powell’s second party records
+an upset here.” We passed Kettle Creek about 5 P.M. In the fifth
+rapid below Kettle Creek I got on the wrong side of the river and
+was carried into a very rocky rapid--the worst so far encountered. I
+touched a rock or two at the start, but made the run in safety; while
+Emery ran the opposite side without trouble. We camped beside a small
+stream on the south, where there were signs of an old camp.”
+
+“_Saturday, September 16_. Clear and cold in the early morning.
+Started about 9 A.M. Lined our boats past a difficult rapid. Too many
+rocks, not enough water. Two or three miles below this I had some
+difficulty in a rapid, as the pin of a rowlock lifted out of the
+socket when in the middle of rough water. Emery snapped a picture
+just as it happened. A little later E. C.[2] ran a rocky rapid, but
+had so much trouble that we concluded to line my boat. Noon. Just a
+cold lunch, but with hot coffee from the vacuum bottles. Then at it
+again.”
+
+“The scenery is wonderful; the canyon is deeper than above; the river
+is swift and has a decided drop. We proceed cautiously, and make slow
+progress. We camp for the day on the north side close to a little,
+dry gully, on a level sage and bunch-grass covered bottom back from
+the river’s edge. An abruptly descending canyon banked with small
+cottonwood trees coming in from the opposite side contains a small
+stream. Put up our tent for the second time since leaving Green
+River, Wyoming. We are all weary, and glad to-morrow is Sunday--a day
+of rest.”
+
+“_Sunday, September 17._ E. C. and I follow a fresh deer track up a
+game trail and get--a rabbit. Climb out about 1300 feet above the
+river to the top of the narrow canyon. Here is a sloping plateau,
+dotted with bunch-grass and grease-wood, a fourth of a mile wide.
+Then rounded mountains rise beyond the plateau, some of the peaks
+reaching a height of 4000 feet above the river. The opposite side is
+much the same, but with a wider plateau. We had no idea before what a
+wonderful country this is. It is a picture to tempt an artist. High
+on the mountain tops is the dark blue-green of pines and firs, reds
+and yellows are mixed in the quaking aspen,--for the frost comes
+early enough to catch the sap in the leaves; little openings, or
+parks with no trees, are tinted a beautiful soft gray; ‘brownstone
+fronts’ are found in the canyon walls; and a very light green in
+the willow-leafed cottonwoods at the river’s edge, and in all side
+canyons where there is a running stream. The river glistens in the
+sunlight, as it winds around the base of the wall on which we stand,
+and then disappears around a bend in the canyon. Turn where we will,
+we see no sign of an opening, nothing but the rounded tops of wooded
+mountains, red and green, far as the eye can reach, until they
+disappear in the hazy blue. Finally Emery’s keen eyes, aided by the
+binoculars, discover a log cabin at the foot of a mountain, on the
+plateau opposite us, about three miles away.”
+
+“We hurry back to camp and write some letters; then Jim and I cross
+the river and climb out over the rocky walls to the plateau above. In
+two hours we reach the cabin. It is new--not yet finished. A woman
+and four children are looking over a garden when we arrive. They are
+a little frightened at first, but soon recover. The woman gladly
+promises to take out our mail when they go to the nearest town,
+which happens to be Vernal, Utah, forty-five miles away. Three other
+families live near by, all recently moved in from Vernal. The woman
+tells us that Galloway hunts bear in these timbered mountains, and
+has killed some with a price on their heads--bear with a perverted
+taste for fresh beef.”[3]
+
+“Thanking the woman, we make our way back to the river. We see some
+dried-out elk horns along our trail; though it is doubtful if elk
+get this far south at present. A deer trail, leading down a ravine,
+makes our homeward journey much easier. It has turned quite cold this
+evening, after sunset. We finish our notes and prepare to roll into
+our beds a little earlier than usual.”
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IV
 
-
-
 SUSPICIOUS HOSTS
 
+
 We awoke bright and early the next morning, much refreshed by our day
-of rest and variety. With an early start we were soon pulling down the
-river, and noon found us several miles below the camp, having run
+of rest and variety. With an early start we were soon pulling down
+the river, and noon found us several miles below the camp, having run
 eleven rapids with no particular difficulty. A reference in my notes
-reads: "Last one has a thousand rocks, and we could not miss them all.
-My rowing is improving, and we both got through fairly well." In the
-afternoon they continued to come--an endless succession of small
-rapids, with here and there a larger one. The canyon was similar to
-that at our camp above, dark red walls with occasional pines on the
-ledges,--a most charming combination of colour. At 2.30 P.M. we
-reached Ashley Falls, a rapid we had been expecting to see for some
-time. It was a place of singular beauty. A dozen immense rocks had
-fallen from the cliff on the left, almost completely blocking the
-channel--or so it seemed from one point of view. But there was a
-crooked channel, not more than twelve wide in places, through which
-the water shot like a stream from a nozzle.
+reads: “Last one has a thousand rocks, and we could not miss them
+all. My rowing is improving, and we both got through fairly well.” In
+the afternoon they continued to come--an endless succession of small
+rapids, with here and there a larger one. The canyon was similar
+to that at our camp above, dark red walls with occasional pines on
+the ledges,--a most charming combination of colour. At 2.30 P.M.
+we reached Ashley Falls, a rapid we had been expecting to see for
+some time. It was a place of singular beauty. A dozen immense rocks
+had fallen from the cliff on the left, almost completely blocking
+the channel--or so it seemed from one point of view. But there was
+a crooked channel, not more than twelve wide in places, through
+which the water shot like a stream from a nozzle.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “IMMENSE ROCKS HAD FALLEN FROM THE CLIFF.”]
 
 We wanted a motion picture of our dash through the chute. But the
 location for the camera was hard to secure, for a sheer bank of rock
@@ -1332,27 +1327,27 @@ break occurred in the wall. Jimmy was left with the camera, the boat
 was pulled back, and we prepared to run the rapid.
 
 We first had to pass between two square rocks rising eight feet above
-the water so close together that we could not use the oars; then, when
-past these, pull ten feet to the right in order to clear the large
-rock at the end of the main dam, or barrier, not more than twenty feet
-below. To pull down bow first and try to make the turn, would mean to
-smash broadside against this rock. It could only be done by dropping
-stern first, and pulling to the right under the protection of the
-first rocks; though it was doubtful if even this could be
-accomplished, the current was so swift. The _Defiance_ was ready
-first, the _Edith_ was to follow as closely as safety allowed.
+the water so close together that we could not use the oars; then,
+when past these, pull ten feet to the right in order to clear the
+large rock at the end of the main dam, or barrier, not more than
+twenty feet below. To pull down bow first and try to make the turn,
+would mean to smash broadside against this rock. It could only be
+done by dropping stern first, and pulling to the right under the
+protection of the first rocks; though it was doubtful if even this
+could be accomplished, the current was so swift. The _Defiance_ was
+ready first, the _Edith_ was to follow as closely as safety allowed.
 
 Almost before I knew it I was in the narrow channel, so close to the
 right rock that I had to ship that oar, and pull altogether on the
-left one. As soon as I was through I made a few quick strokes, but the
-current was too strong for me; and a corner of the stern struck a bang
-when I was almost clear. She paused as a wave rolled over the decks,
-then rose quickly; a side current caught the boat, whirling it around,
-and the bow struck. I was still pulling with all my might, but
-everything happened so quickly,--with the boat whirling first this
-way, then that,--that my efforts were almost useless. But after that
-second strike I did get in a few strokes, and pulled into the quiet
-pool below the line of boulders.
+left one. As soon as I was through I made a few quick strokes, but
+the current was too strong for me; and a corner of the stern struck
+a bang when I was almost clear. She paused as a wave rolled over the
+decks, then rose quickly; a side current caught the boat, whirling it
+around, and the bow struck. I was still pulling with all my might,
+but everything happened so quickly,--with the boat whirling first
+this way, then that,--that my efforts were almost useless. But after
+that second strike I did get in a few strokes, and pulled into the
+quiet pool below the line of boulders.
 
 Emery held his boat in better position than I had done, and it looked
 for a while as if he would make it. But the _Edith_ struck on the
@@ -1363,70 +1358,75 @@ suffered no damage from the blows they had received. Striking on the
 ends as they did, the shock was distributed throughout the whole boat.
 
 This completed our run for that day, and we went into camp just below
-the "Falls." Emery painted the name _Edith_ on the bow of his boat, at
-this camp. The name was given in honour of his four-year-old daughter,
-waiting for us at the Grand Canyon. I remarked that as no one loved
-me, I would name my boat the _Defiance_. But I hesitated about putting
-this name on the bow. I would look rather foolish, I thought, if the
-_Defiance_ should be wrecked in the first bad rapid. So the
-christening of my boat was left until such time as should have earned
-the title, although she was constantly referred to as the _Defiance_.
+the “Falls.” Emery painted the name _Edith_ on the bow of his boat,
+at this camp. The name was given in honour of his four-year-old
+daughter, waiting for us at the Grand Canyon. I remarked that as no
+one loved me, I would name my boat the _Defiance_. But I hesitated
+about putting this name on the bow. I would look rather foolish, I
+thought, if the _Defiance_ should be wrecked in the first bad rapid.
+So the christening of my boat was left until such time as should
+have earned the title, although she was constantly referred to as the
+_Defiance_.
 
 We remained until noon of the following day at Ashley Falls,
 exploring, repairing, and photographing this picturesque spot. The
 canyon walls here dropped down to beautiful, rolling foot-hills eight
 or nine hundred feet high tree covered as before but more open. The
-diversity of rocks and hills was alluring. There was work to be done
-and no pleasanter spot could be found in which to do it. Among other
-things that had to be looked after were some adjustments to the
-motion-picture camera--usually referred to by us as the M.P.C.--this
-delicate work always falling to Emery, for he alone could do it.
-
-There was much to interest us here. Major Powell reported finding the
-name "Ashley" painted under an overhanging rock on the left side of
-the river. Underneath was a date, rather indistinct, but found to have
-been 1825, by Dellenbaugh, after carefully tracing the career of
-Colonel Ashley who was responsible for the record. Accompanied by a
-number of trappers, he made the passage through this canyon at that
-early day. We found a trace of the record. There were three
+diversity of rocks and hills was alluring. There was work to be
+done and no pleasanter spot could be found in which to do it. Among
+other things that had to be looked after were some adjustments to
+the motion-picture camera--usually referred to by us as the M. P.
+C.--this delicate work always falling to Emery, for he alone could do
+it.
+
+There was much to interest us here. Major Powell reported finding
+the name “Ashley” painted under an overhanging rock on the left side
+of the river. Underneath was a date, rather indistinct, but found to
+have been 1825, by Dellenbaugh, after carefully tracing the career
+of Colonel Ashley who was responsible for the record. Accompanied
+by a number of trappers, he made the passage through this canyon at
+that early day. We found a trace of the record. There were three
 letters--A-s-h--the first two quite distinct, and underneath were
 black spots. It must have been pretty good paint to leave a trace
 after eighty-six years!
 
-Resuming our journey we passed into deep canyon again,--the deepest we
-had found up to this time,--with steeply sloping, verdure-covered
+Resuming our journey we passed into deep canyon again,--the deepest
+we had found up to this time,--with steeply sloping, verdure-covered
 walls about 2700 feet high. The rapids still continued. At one rapid
-the remark was made that "Two feet of water would cover two hundred
-rocks so that our boats would pass over them." But we did not have the
-two feet needed.
+the remark was made that “Two feet of water would cover two hundred
+rocks so that our boats would pass over them.” But we did not have
+the two feet needed.
 
-We had previously been informed that some of these mountains were the
-hiding-places of men who were "wanted" in the three states which
+We had previously been informed that some of these mountains were
+the hiding-places of men who were “wanted” in the three states which
 bordered near here. Some escaping prisoners had also been traced to
 the mountains in this direction; then all tracks had ceased. The few
-peaceable ranchers who lived in these mountains were much alarmed over
-these reports. We found one such rancher on the plateau above the
-canyon, whom we will call Johnson for convenience,--living in one of
-the upper canyons. He sold us some provisions. In return he asked us
-to help him swim some of his horses across the river. He said the high
-water had taken out his own boat. The horses were rounded up in a
-mountain-hidden valley and driven into the water ahead of the boat.
-After securing the horses, Johnson's welcome seemed to turn to
-suspicion and he questioned our reasons for being there, wanting to
-know what we could find in that wild country to interest us. Johnson's
-sons, of whom there were several, seemed to put in most of their time
-at hunting and trapping, never leaving the house without a gun. The
-cabin home looked like an arsenal, revolvers and guns hanging on all
-the walls--even his daughters being familiar with their use. Although
-we had been very well treated after all, Mrs. Johnson especially
-having been very kind to us, we felt just a little relieved when the
-Johnson ranch was left behind. We use, in fact, a fictious name, not
-caring to visit on them the suspicions we ourselves felt in return.
-
-Another morning passed in repairing the M.P. camera, and another
-afternoon's work was necessary to get us out of the walls and the
+peaceable ranchers who lived in these mountains were much alarmed
+over these reports. We found one such rancher on the plateau above
+the canyon, whom we will call Johnson for convenience,--living in one
+of the upper canyons. He sold us some provisions. In return he asked
+us to help him swim some of his horses across the river. He said the
+high water had taken out his own boat. The horses were rounded up
+in a mountain-hidden valley and driven into the water ahead of the
+boat. After securing the horses, Johnson’s welcome seemed to turn
+to suspicion and he questioned our reasons for being there, wanting
+to know what we could find in that wild country to interest us.
+Johnson’s sons, of whom there were several, seemed to put in most of
+their time at hunting and trapping, never leaving the house without
+a gun. The cabin home looked like an arsenal, revolvers and guns
+hanging on all the walls--even his daughters being familiar with
+their use. Although we had been very well treated after all, Mrs.
+Johnson especially having been very kind to us, we felt just a little
+relieved when the Johnson ranch was left behind. We use, in fact,
+a fictitious name, not caring to visit on them the suspicions we
+ourselves felt in return.
+
+  [Illustration: ASHLEY FALLS, LOOKING DOWN-STREAM.]
+
+Another morning passed in repairing the M. P. camera, and another
+afternoon’s work was necessary to get us out of the walls and the
 rapids of Red Canyon. But on the evening of the 20th, we did get out,
-and pulled into an open country known as Brown's Park, one week after
+and pulled into an open country known as Brown’s Park, one week after
 entering Flaming Gorge. It had not been very fast travelling; but we
 were through, and with no mishap more serious than a split board on
 the side of my boat. Under favourable conditions, and in experienced
@@ -1438,44 +1438,44 @@ paralleling the northern boundary of Utah, and continued to flow in
 this general direction until it crossed into Colorado.
 
 On emerging from Red Canyon we spied a ranch house or log cabin close
-to the river. The doors were open and there were many tracks in the
-sand, so we thought some one must be about. On approaching the house,
-however, we found the place was deserted, but with furniture, books,
-and pictures piled on the floor in the utmost confusion, as if the
-occupants had left in a great hurry. This surmise afterward proved to
-be correct; for we learned that the rancher had been murdered for his
-money, his body having been found in a boat farther down the river.
-Suspicion pointed to an old employee who had been seen lurking near
-the place. He was traced to the railroad, over a hundred miles to the
-north; but made his escape and was never caught.
-
-We found Brown's Park, once known as Brown's Hole, to be a beautiful
+to the river. The doors were open and there were many tracks in
+the sand, so we thought some one must be about. On approaching the
+house, however, we found the place was deserted, but with furniture,
+books, and pictures piled on the floor in the utmost confusion, as
+if the occupants had left in a great hurry. This surmise afterward
+proved to be correct; for we learned that the rancher had been
+murdered for his money, his body having been found in a boat farther
+down the river. Suspicion pointed to an old employee who had been
+seen lurking near the place. He was traced to the railroad, over a
+hundred miles to the north; but made his escape and was never caught.
+
+We found Brown’s Park, once known as Brown’s Hole, to be a beautiful
 valley several miles in width, and thirty-five or forty miles in
 length. The upper end of the valley was rugged in places, with rocky
 hills two or three hundred feet high. To the south, a few miles away,
 were the mountains, a continuation of those we had come through. We
-saw many cattle scattered over some of these rocky hills, grazing on
-the bunch-grass. At one place our course led us through a little
+saw many cattle scattered over some of these rocky hills, grazing
+on the bunch-grass. At one place our course led us through a little
 canyon about two miles long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet
 deep. This was Swallow Canyon--a name suggested by the many birds of
-that species which had covered the canyon's walls with their little
+that species which had covered the canyon’s walls with their little
 clay nests. The openings of some of these nests were so small that it
 scarcely seemed possible for a bird to enter.
 
 The water was deep and quiet in this short canyon, and a hard wind
-blowing up the stream made it difficult for us to gain any headway. In
-this case, too, the forms of the boat were against us. With the keel
-removed and with their high sides catching the wind, they were carried
-back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put up with it for
-a while, for those very features would prove most valuable in the
-rough-water canyons which were to follow!
+blowing up the stream made it difficult for us to gain any headway.
+In this case, too, the forms of the boat were against us. With the
+keel removed and with their high sides catching the wind, they were
+carried back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put
+up with it for a while, for those very features would prove most
+valuable in the rough-water canyons which were to follow!
 
 Emerging from the canyon at last, we saw a ferry loaded with sheep
-crossing the stream. On the left shore was a large corral, also filled
-with sheep which a half dozen men were driving back and forth into
-different compartments. Later these men told us there were 2400 sheep
-in the flock. We took their word for it, making no attempt to count
-them. The foreman of the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and
+crossing the stream. On the left shore was a large corral, also
+filled with sheep which a half dozen men were driving back and forth
+into different compartments. Later these men told us there were 2400
+sheep in the flock. We took their word for it, making no attempt to
+count them. The foreman of the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and
 honey,--these two articles being a welcome addition to our list of
 supplies, which were beginning to show the effects of our voracious
 appetites.
@@ -1487,207 +1487,218 @@ hay was in the air. Young boys and women were among these busy
 workers, some of the women being seated on large harvesters, handling
 the horses with as much dexterity as any of the men.
 
-The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. We
-were hailed from the shore by some of the hay ranchers, it being a
-novel sight to them to see a river expedition. At one or two of these
-places we asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and were
-given evasive answers. Finally we were told that cattle rustlers from
-the mountains made it so hard for the ranchers in the valleys that
-there was nothing for them to do but get out. They told us, also, that
-we were fortunate to get away from Johnson's ranch with our valuables!
-Our former host, we were told, had committed many depredations and had
-served one term for cattle stealing. Officers, disguised as
-prospectors, had taken employment with him and helped him kill and
-skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands, having been
-partially burned and buried. On this evidence he was afterwards
-convicted.
-
-Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions of us, the sinister
-arsenal of guns and pistols, all was explained! Quite likely some of
-these weapons had been trained against us by the trappers on the
-chance that we were either officers of the law, or competitors in the
-horse-stealing industry. For that matter we were actually guilty of
-the latter count, for come to think of it, we ourselves had helped
+The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest.
+We were hailed from the shore by some of the hay ranchers, it being
+a novel sight to them to see a river expedition. At one or two of
+these places we asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and
+were given evasive answers. Finally we were told that cattle rustlers
+from the mountains made it so hard for the ranchers in the valleys
+that there was nothing for them to do but get out. They told us,
+also, that we were fortunate to get away from Johnson’s ranch with
+our valuables! Our former host, we were told, had committed many
+depredations and had served one term for cattle stealing. Officers,
+disguised as prospectors, had taken employment with him and helped
+him kill and skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands,
+having been partially burned and buried. On this evidence he was
+afterwards convicted.
+
+Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions of us, the
+sinister arsenal of guns and pistols, all was explained! Quite likely
+some of these weapons had been trained against us by the trappers on
+the chance that we were either officers of the law, or competitors in
+the horse-stealing industry. For that matter we were actually guilty
+of the latter count, for come to think of it, we ourselves had helped
 them steal eight horses and a colt!
 
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE ROCKS WERE DARK RED: OCCASIONAL PINES GREW ON THE LEDGES, MAKING
+  A CHARMING COMBINATION OF COLOUR.]
+
 The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. It
 was all so different from anything seen above. There were great
-bottoms that gave evidence of having recently been overflooded, though
-now covered with cottonwood trees, gorgeous in their autumn foliage.
-We had often wondered where all the driftwood that floated down the
-Colorado came from; but after seeing those unnumbered acres of
-cottonwoods we ceased to wonder.
+bottoms that gave evidence of having recently been overflooded,
+though now covered with cottonwood trees, gorgeous in their autumn
+foliage. We had often wondered where all the driftwood that floated
+down the Colorado came from; but after seeing those unnumbered acres
+of cottonwoods we ceased to wonder.
 
 There were many beaver slides on the banks; and in places, numberless
 trees had been felled by these industrious animals. On one or two
 occasions we narrowly escaped splitting the sides of our boats on
 snags of trees which the beavers had buried in the bottom of the
 stream. We saw no beaver dams on the river; they were not necessary,
-for deep, quiet pools existed everywhere in Brown's Park. We saw two
+for deep, quiet pools existed everywhere in Brown’s Park. We saw two
 beavers in this section. One of these rose, porpoise-like, to the top
-of the water, stared at us a moment, then brought his tail down with a
-resounding smack on the top of the water, and disappeared, to enter
-his home by the subterranean route, no doubt. The river was gradually
-losing its clear colour, for the sand-bars were beginning to "work
-out," or break, making the water quite roily. In some sections of
-Brown's Park we grounded on these sand-bars, making it necessary for
-us to get out into the water, pushing and pulling on the boats until
-deeper water was reached. Sometimes the deep water came when least
-expected, the sand-bars having a disconcerting way of dropping off
-abruptly on the downstream side. Jimmy stepped off the edge of one of
-these hidden ledges while working with a boat and was for some time in
-no condition to appreciate our ill-concealed mirth.
+of the water, stared at us a moment, then brought his tail down with
+a resounding smack on the top of the water, and disappeared, to enter
+his home by the subterranean route, no doubt.
+
+The river was gradually losing its clear colour, for the sand-bars
+were beginning to “work out,” or break, making the water quite roily.
+In some sections of Brown’s Park we grounded on these sand-bars,
+making it necessary for us to get out into the water, pushing and
+pulling on the boats until deeper water was reached. Sometimes
+the deep water came when least expected, the sand-bars having
+a disconcerting way of dropping off abruptly on the downstream
+side. Jimmy stepped off the edge of one of these hidden ledges
+while working with a boat and was for some time in no condition to
+appreciate our ill-concealed mirth.
 
 Often we would be passing along on perfectly smooth water, when
-suddenly a turmoil would rise all about us as though a geyser had
+suddenly a turmoil would rise all about us, as though a geyser had
 broken out below the surface. If we happened to be directly over it,
-the boat would be rocked back and forth for a while; then all would be
-peaceful again. This was most often caused by the ledges of sand,
-anywhere from three to ten feet high breaking down or falling forward
+the boat would be rocked back and forth for a while; then all would
+be peaceful again. This was most often caused by the ledges of sand,
+anywhere from three to ten feet high, breaking down or falling forward
 as their bases were undermined. In a single night a bar of this kind
 will work upstream for a distance of several feet; then the sand will
 be carried down with the current to lodge again in some quiet pool,
 and again be carried on as before. This action gives rise to long
-lines of regular waves or swells extending for some distance down the
-stream. These are usually referred to as sand-waves. These waves
-increase in size in high water; and the monotonous thump, thump of the
-boat's bottom upon them is anything but pleasant, especially if one is
-trying to make fast time.
+lines of regular waves or swells extending for some distance down
+the stream. These are usually referred to as sand-waves. These waves
+increase in size in high water; and the monotonous thump, thump of
+the boat’s bottom upon them is anything but pleasant, especially if
+one is trying to make fast time.
 
-So, with something new at every turn, we pulled lazily through Brown's
-Park, shooting at ducks and geese when we came near them, snapping our
-cameras when a picture presented itself, and observing the animal life
-along the stream.
+So, with something new at every turn, we pulled lazily through
+Brown’s Park, shooting at ducks and geese when we came near them,
+snapping our cameras when a picture presented itself, and observing
+the animal life along the stream.
 
 We stopped at one hay-ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line and
 chatted awhile with the workers. A pleasant-faced woman named Mrs.
 Chew asked us to deliver a message at a ranch a mile or two below.
 Here also was the post-office of Lodore, Colorado, located a short
-distance above the canyon of the same name. Mrs. Chew informed us that
-they had another ranch at the lower end of Lodore Canyon and asked us
-to look them up when we got through, remarking: "You may have trouble,
-you know. Two of my sons once tried it. They lost their boat, had to
-climb out, and nearly starved before they reached home."
-
-The post-office at the ranch, found as described, without another home
-in sight, was a welcome sight to us for several reasons. One reason
-was that it afforded shelter from a heavy downpour of rain that
-greeted us as we neared it, and a better reason still was, that it
-gave us a chance to write and mail some letters to those who would be
-most anxious to hear from us.
+distance above the canyon of the same name. Mrs. Chew informed us
+that they had another ranch at the lower end of Lodore Canyon and
+asked us to look them up when we got through, remarking:
+
+“You may have trouble, you know. Two of my sons once tried it. They
+lost their boat, had to climb out, and nearly starved before they
+reached home.”
+
+The post-office at the ranch, found as described, without another
+home in sight, was a welcome sight to us for several reasons. One
+reason was that it afforded shelter from a heavy downpour of rain
+that greeted us as we neared it, and a better reason still was, that
+it gave us a chance to write and mail some letters to those who would
+be most anxious to hear from us.
 
 Among the messages we mailed was a picture post-card of Coney Island
-at night. In some way this card had slipped between the leaves of a
-book that I had brought from the East. I sent it out, addressed to a
-friend who would understand the joke; writing underneath the picture,
-"We have an abundance of such scenery here." The young woman who had
-charge of the office looked at the card in amazement. It was evidently
-something new to her. She told us she had never been to the railroad,
-and that her brother took the mail out on horse-back to Steamboat,
-Colorado, 140 miles distant.
-
-The rain having ceased, we returned to our boats pausing to admire a
-rainbow that arched above the canyon in the mountains, toward which we
-were headed. We remarked, jokingly, to Jimmy that this was a good
-sign. He replied without smiling that he "hoped so." Jimmy's songs had
-long since ceased, and we suspected him of homesickness. With the
-exception of a short visit to some friends on a large ranch, Jimmy had
-never been away from his home in San Francisco. This present
+at night. In some way this card had slipped between the leaves of
+a book that I had brought from the East. I sent it out, addressed
+to a friend who would understand the joke; writing underneath the
+picture, “We have an abundance of such scenery here.” The young woman
+who had charge of the office looked at the card in amazement. It was
+evidently something new to her. She told us she had never been to
+the railroad, and that her brother took the mail out on horseback to
+Steamboat, Colorado, 140 miles distant.
+
+The rain having ceased, we returned to our boats, pausing to admire a
+rainbow that arched above the canyon in the mountains, toward which
+we were headed. We remarked, jokingly, to Jimmy that this was a good
+sign. He replied without smiling that he “hoped so.” Jimmy’s songs
+had long since ceased, and we suspected him of homesickness. With the
+exception of a short visit to some friends on a large ranch, Jimmy
+had never been away from his home in San Francisco. This present
 experience was quite a contrast, to be sure! We did what we could to
-keep him cheered up, but with little success. Jimmy had intimated that
-he would prefer to leave at the first opportunity to reach a railroad,
-and we willingly agreed to help him in every possible way. Emery and I
-also agreed between ourselves that we would not take any unnecessary
-risks with him; but would leave him out of the boats at all rapids, if
-there was any passage around them.
+keep him cheered up, but with little success. Jimmy had intimated
+that he would prefer to leave at the first opportunity to reach a
+railroad, and we willingly agreed to help him in every possible way.
+Emery and I also agreed between ourselves that we would not take any
+unnecessary risks with him; but would leave him out of the boats at
+all rapids, if there was any passage around them.
 
 The river had taken a sharp turn to the south soon after passing the
 post-office, heading directly towards the mountains. Camp was pitched
 just above the mouth of Lodore. This twenty-mile canyon bears a very
 unsavory reputation, having a descent of 425 feet in that short
-distance, the greater part of the fall occurring in a space of twelve
-miles. This would mean wild water somewhere!
+distance, the greater part of the fall occurring in a space of
+twelve miles. This would mean wild water somewhere!
 
-We were camped on a spot recently occupied by some engineers of the
-United States Conservation Department, who had been trying to
-determine if it was feasible to dam the river at this place. The plan
-was to flood the hole of Brown's Park and divert the water through the
-mountains by a tunnel to land suitable for cultivation and in
-addition, allow the muddy water to settle and so prevent the vast
-amount of silt from being washed on down, eventually to the mouth of
-the Colorado. The location seemed admirably suited for this stupendous
-project. But holes drilled beside the river failed to find bottom, as
-nothing but quicksand existed even at a depth of nearly three hundred
-feet; and without a strong foundation, such a dam would be utterly
-useless.
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “WE STOPPED AT ONE HAY RANCH CLOSE TO THE UTAH-COLORADO LINE.”]
 
+We were camped on a spot recently occupied by some engineers of
+the United States Conservation Department, who had been trying to
+determine if it was feasible to dam the river at this place. The
+plan was to flood the hole of Brown’s Park and divert the water
+through the mountains by a tunnel to land suitable for cultivation
+and in addition, allow the muddy water to settle and so prevent the
+vast amount of silt from being washed on down, eventually to the
+mouth of the Colorado. The location seemed admirably suited for this
+stupendous project. But holes drilled beside the river failed to find
+bottom, as nothing but quicksand existed even at a depth of nearly
+three hundred feet; and without a strong foundation, such a dam would
+be utterly useless.
 
 
 
-CHAPTER V
-
 
+CHAPTER V
 
 THE BATTLE WITH LODORE
 
+
 Camp routine was hurriedly disposed of the next morning, Saturday,
 September the 23d. Everything was made snug beneath the hatches,
 except the two guns, which were too long to go under the decks, and
-had to be carried in the open cockpits. "Camp No. 13, at the head of
-Lodore," as it is entered in my journal, was soon hidden by a bend in
-the river. The open, sun-lit country, with its pleasant ranches and
-its grazing cattle, its rolling, gray, sage-covered hills and its wild
-grass and cottonwood-covered bottoms, was left behind, and we were
-back in the realm of the rock-walled canyon, and beetle-browed,
+had to be carried in the open cockpits. “Camp No. 13, at the head of
+Lodore,” as it is entered in my journal, was soon hidden by a bend
+in the river. The open, sun-lit country, with its pleasant ranches
+and its grazing cattle, its rolling, gray, sage-covered hills and its
+wild grass and cottonwood-covered bottoms, was left behind, and we
+were back in the realm of the rock-walled canyon, and beetle-browed,
 frowning cliffs with pines and cedars clutching at the scanty ledges.
 
-We paused long enough to make a picture or two, with the hope that the
-photographic record would give to others some idea of the geological
-and scenic wonder--said to be the greatest known example of its
-kind--which lay before us. Here is an obstructing mountain raised
-directly in the river's path. Yet with no deviation whatever the
-stream has cut through the very centre of the peak! The walls are
-almost sheer, especially at the the bottom, and are quite close
-together at the top. A mile inside the mountain on the left or east
-side of the gorge is 2700 feet high. Geologists say that the river was
-here first and that the mountain was slowly raised in its pathway--so
-slowly that the river could saw away and maintain its old channel. The
-quicksand found below the present level would seem to indicate that
-the walls were once even higher than at present, and that a subsidence
-had taken place after the cutting.
+We paused long enough to make a picture or two, with the hope that
+the photographic record would give to others some idea of the
+geological and scenic wonder--said to be the greatest known example
+of its kind--which lay before us. Here is an obstructing mountain
+raised directly in the river’s path. Yet with no deviation whatever
+the stream has cut through the very centre of the peak! The walls are
+almost sheer, especially at the bottom, and are quite close together
+at the top. A mile inside the mountain on the left or east side of
+the gorge is 2700 feet high. Geologists say that the river was here
+first and that the mountain was slowly raised in its pathway--so
+slowly that the river could saw away and maintain its old channel.
+The quicksand found below the present level would seem to indicate
+that the walls were once even higher than at present, and that a
+subsidence had taken place after the cutting.
 
 The river at the entrance of this rock-walled canyon was nothing
 alarming, four small rapids being passed without event. Then a fifth
 was reached that looked worse. The _Edith_ was lined down. This was
-hard work, and dangerous too, owing to the strength of the current and
-the many rocks; so I concluded that my own boat, the _Defiance_, must
-run the rapid. Jimmy went below, with a life-preserver on a rope.
-Emery stood beside the rapid with a camera and made a picture as I
-shot past him. Fortunately I got through without mishap. I refused to
-upset even to please my brother.
-
-We were beginning to think that Lodore was not so bad after all. Rapid
-followed rapid in quick succession, and all were run without trouble;
-then we came to a large one. It was Upper Disaster Falls; so named by
-Major Powell, for it was here that one of his boats was wrecked on his
-first voyage of exploration. This boat failed to make the landing
-above the rapid and was carried over. She struck a rock broadside,
-turned around and struck again, breaking the boat completely in two.
-This boat was built of 3/4-inch oak reënforced with bulkheads. When
-this fact is taken into consideration, some idea may be had of the
-great power of these rapids. The three men who occupied the boat saved
-themselves by reaching an island a short distance below.
+hard work, and dangerous too, owing to the strength of the current
+and the many rocks; so I concluded that my own boat, the _Defiance_,
+must run the rapid. Jimmy went below, with a life-preserver on a
+rope. Emery stood beside the rapid with a camera and made a picture
+as I shot past him. Fortunately I got through without mishap. I
+refused to upset even to please my brother.
+
+We were beginning to think that Lodore was not so bad after all.
+Rapid followed rapid in quick succession, and all were run without
+trouble; then we came to a large one. It was Upper Disaster Falls;
+so named by Major Powell, for it was here that one of his boats was
+wrecked on his first voyage of exploration. This boat failed to
+make the landing above the rapid and was carried over. She struck a
+rock broadside, turned around and struck again, breaking the boat
+completely in two. This boat was built of ¾-inch oak reënforced with
+bulkheads. When this fact is taken into consideration, some idea may
+be had of the great power of these rapids. The three men who occupied
+the boat saved themselves by reaching an island a short distance
+below.
 
 This all happened on a stage of water much higher than the present
 one, so we did not let the occurrence influence us one way or the
-other, except to make us careful to land above the rapid. We found a
-very narrow channel between two submerged boulders, the water plunging
-and foaming for a short distance below, over many hidden rocks. Still,
-there was only one large rock near the lower end that we greatly
-feared, and by careful work that might be avoided.
+other, except to make us careful to land above the rapid. We found
+a very narrow channel between two submerged boulders, the water
+plunging and foaming for a short distance below, over many hidden
+rocks. Still, there was only one large rock near the lower end that
+we greatly feared, and by careful work that might be avoided.
 
 The _Edith_ went first and grazed the boulder slightly, but no harm
-was done as E.C. held his boat well in hand. I followed, and struck
+was done as E. C. held his boat well in hand. I followed, and struck
 rocks at the same instant on both sides of the narrow channel with my
 oars. It will be remembered that we ran all these dangerous rapids
 facing downstream. The effect of this was to shoot the ends of both
@@ -1695,81 +1706,85 @@ oars up past my face. The operator said that I made a grimace just as
 he took a picture of the scrimmage.
 
 We landed on the island below and talked of camping for the night, as
-it was getting late; but the island so rocky and inhospitable that we
-concluded to try the lower part of the rapid. This had no descent like
-the upper end; but it was very shallow, and we soon found ourselves on
-rocks, unable to proceed any farther. It took an hour of hard labour
-to work our heavy boats safely to the shore.
-
-We had been hoping for a rest the next day--Sunday--but the island was
-such a disagreeable place to camp that it seemed necessary to cross to
-the mainland at least. A coil of strong, pliable wire had been
-included in our material. Here was a chance to use it to advantage.
-The stream on the left side of the island could be waded, although it
-was very swift; and we managed to get the wire across and well
-fastened at both ends. Elevating the wire above the water with
+it was getting late; but the island so rocky and inhospitable that
+we concluded to try the lower part of the rapid. This had no descent
+like the upper end; but it was very shallow, and we soon found
+ourselves on rocks, unable to proceed any farther. It took an hour of
+hard labour to work our heavy boats safely to the shore.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  REMARKABLE ENTRANCE TO LODORE CANYON.]
+
+We had been hoping for a rest the next day--Sunday--but the island
+was such a disagreeable place to camp that it seemed necessary to
+cross to the mainland at least. A coil of strong, pliable wire
+had been included in our material. Here was a chance to use it to
+advantage. The stream on the left side of the island could be waded,
+although it was very swift; and we managed to get the wire across and
+well fastened at both ends. Elevating the wire above the water with
 cross-sticks, our tent and camp material were run across on a pulley,
 and camp was pitched a hundred yards below, on the left shore of the
 river.
 
 There were fitful showers in the afternoon, and we rested from our
-labour, obtaining a great deal of comfort from our tent, which was put
-up here for the third time since leaving Green River City. Always,
-when the weather was clear, we slept in the open.
+labour, obtaining a great deal of comfort from our tent, which was
+put up here for the third time since leaving Green River City.
+Always, when the weather was clear, we slept in the open.
 
 Monday, the 25th, found us at the same camp. Having concluded that
-Disaster Falls was an ideal place for a moving picture, we sent the
-balance of the material across on the pulley and wire, making a
-picture of the operation; stopping often because it continued to
+Disaster Falls was an ideal place for a moving picture, we sent
+the balance of the material across on the pulley and wire, making
+a picture of the operation; stopping often because it continued to
 shower. Between showers we resumed our work and picture making.
 
 The picture was to have been concluded with the operation of lining
-the boat across. E.C. stood on the shore about sixty feet away,
-working with the camera; Jimmy was on the island, paying out the rope;
-while I waded in the water, holding the bow of the boat as I worked
-her between the rocks. Having reached the end of the rope, I coiled it
-up, advising Jimmy to go up to a safe crossing and join my brother
-while I proceeded with the boat. All was going well, and I was nearing
-the shore, when I found myself suddenly carried off my feet into water
-beyond my depth, and drifting for the lower end of the rapid.
-Meanwhile I was holding to the bow of the boat, and calling lustily to
-my brother to save me. At first he did not notice that anything was
-wrong, as he was looking intently through the finder. Then he suddenly
-awoke to the fact that something was amiss, and came running down the
-boulder-strewn shore, but he could not help me, as we had neglected to
-leave a rope with him. Things were beginning to look pretty serious,
-when the boat stopped against a rock and I found myself once more with
-solid footing under me. It was too good a picture to miss; and I found
-the operator at the machine, turning the crank as I climbed out.
+the boat across. E. C. stood on the shore about sixty feet away,
+working with the camera; Jimmy was on the island, paying out the
+rope; while I waded in the water, holding the bow of the boat as I
+worked her between the rocks. Having reached the end of the rope, I
+coiled it up, advising Jimmy to go up to a safe crossing and join
+my brother while I proceeded with the boat. All was going well, and
+I was nearing the shore, when I found myself suddenly carried off
+my feet into water beyond my depth, and drifting for the lower end
+of the rapid. Meanwhile I was holding to the bow of the boat, and
+calling lustily to my brother to save me. At first he did not notice
+that anything was wrong, as he was looking intently through the
+finder. Then he suddenly awoke to the fact that something was amiss,
+and came running down the boulder-strewn shore, but he could not
+help me, as we had neglected to leave a rope with him. Things were
+beginning to look pretty serious, when the boat stopped against a
+rock and I found myself once more with solid footing under me. It was
+too good a picture to miss; and I found the operator at the machine,
+turning the crank as I climbed out.
 
 We developed some films and plates that evening, securing some
 satisfactory results from these tests. It continued to rain all that
 night, with intermittent showers next morning. The rain made little
 difference to us, for we were in the water much of the following day
-as he boats were taken along the edge of another unrunnable rapid, a
+as the boats were taken along the edge of another unrunnable rapid, a
 good companion rapid for the one just passed.
 
-This was Lower Disaster Falls, the first of many similar rapids we
-were to see, but this was one of the worst of its kind. The
+This was Lower Disaster Falls, the first of many similar rapids
+we were to see, but this was one of the worst of its kind. The
 swift-rushing river found its channel blocked by the canyon wall on
-the right side, the cliff running at right angles to the course of the
-stream. The river, attacking the limestones, had cut a channel under
-the wall, then turned and ran with the wall, emerging about two
-hundred feet below. Standing on a rock and holding one end of a
+the right side, the cliff running at right angles to the course of
+the stream. The river, attacking the limestones, had cut a channel
+under the wall, then turned and ran with the wall, emerging about
+two hundred feet below. Standing on a rock and holding one end of a
 twenty-five foot string we threw a stone attached to the other end
-across to the opposite wall. The overhanging wall was within two feet
-of the rushing river; a higher stage of water would hide the cut
-completely from view. Think what would happen if a boat were carried
-against or under that wall! We thought of it many times as we
+across to the opposite wall. The overhanging wall was within two
+feet of the rushing river; a higher stage of water would hide the
+cut completely from view. Think what would happen if a boat were
+carried against or under that wall! We thought of it many times as we
 carefully worked our boats along the shore.
 
 Between the delays of rain, with stops for picture making, portaging
-our material, and "lining" our boats, we spent almost three days in
+our material, and “lining” our boats, we spent almost three days in
 getting past the rapids called Upper and Lower Disaster Falls, with
-their combined fall of 50 feet in little more than half a mile. On the
-evening of September the 26th we camped almost within sight of this
-same place, at the base of a 3000-foot sugar-loaf mountain on the
-right, tree-covered from top to bottom.
+their combined fall of 50 feet in little more than half a mile. On
+the evening of September the 26th we camped almost within sight of
+this same place, at the base of a 3000-foot sugar-loaf mountain on
+the right, tree-covered from top to bottom.
 
 Things were going too easily for us, it seemed; but we were in for a
 few reverses. It stormed much of the night and still drizzled when we
@@ -1778,29 +1793,36 @@ darkened with shreds of clouds drifting far below the rim. The first
 rapid was narrow, and contained some large boulders. The _Edith_ was
 caught on one of these and turned on her side, so that the water
 flowed in, filling the cockpit. The boat was taken off without
-difficulty, and bailed out. We found that the bulkheads failed to keep
-the water out of the hatches. Some material from the _Edith_ was
+difficulty, and bailed out. We found that the bulkheads failed to
+keep the water out of the hatches. Some material from the _Edith_ was
 transferred to the _Defiance_. A bed, in a protecting sack of rubber
 and canvas, was shoved under the seat and we proceeded.
 
-Less than an hour later I repeated my brother's performance, but I was
-not so fortunate as he. The _Defiance_ was carried against one rock as
-I tried to pull clear of another, and in an instant she was on her
-side, held by the rush of water. I caught the gunwale, and, climbing
-on to the rock that caused the disaster, I managed to catch the rope
-and held the boat. In the meantime Emery was in a whirlpool below,
-trying to land on the right side; but was having a difficult time of
-it. Jimmy stood on the shore unable to help. The bed was washed out of
-the boat and went bobbing over the waves, then before I knew what had
-happened, the rope was jerked from my hands and I was left stranded on
-my rock. Seeing this, Jimmy ran with all his might for a pool at the
-end of the rapid, bravely rescuing the boat and the bed as well, just
-as the _Edith_ was landed. A rope was soon thrown to me, after the
-inevitable picture was made. Then I jumped and was pulled to shore.
-
-On making an inventory we found that our guns were lost from the boat.
-Being too long to go under the hatches, they had been left in the
-cockpit. The _Defiance_ had an ugly rap on the bottom, where she
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “THE RIVER CUT A CHANNEL UNDER THE WALLS” AT LOWER DISASTER FALLS.]
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “EVERYTHING WAS WET.”]
+
+Less than an hour later I repeated my brother’s performance, but I
+was not so fortunate as he. The _Defiance_ was carried against one
+rock as I tried to pull clear of another, and in an instant she
+was on her side, held by the rush of water. I caught the gunwale,
+and, climbing on to the rock that caused the disaster, I managed to
+catch the rope and held the boat. In the meantime Emery was in a
+whirlpool below, trying to land on the right side; but was having
+a difficult time of it. Jimmy stood on the shore unable to help. The
+bed was washed out of the boat and went bobbing over the waves, then
+before I knew what had happened, the rope was jerked from my hands
+and I was left stranded on my rock. Seeing this, Jimmy ran with all
+his might for a pool at the end of the rapid, bravely rescuing the
+boat and the bed as well, just as the _Edith_ was landed. A rope was
+soon thrown to me, after the inevitable picture was made. Then I
+jumped and was pulled to shore.
+
+On making an inventory we found that our guns were lost from the
+boat. Being too long to go under the hatches, they had been left in
+the cockpit. The _Defiance_ had an ugly rap on the bottom, where she
 struck a rock, the wood being smashed or jammed, but not broken out.
 Nearly all material in the two boats was wet, so we took everything
 out and piled it on a piece of canvas, spread out on the sand. We
@@ -1811,145 +1833,154 @@ We were engaged in putting up our little tent when a violent wind
 which swept up the canyon, followed by a downpour of rain interrupted
 our work; and if anything missed a soaking before, it certainly
 received it then. The sand was beaten into our cameras and everything
-was scattered helter-skelter over the shore. We were fortunate in only
-one respect. The wind was away from the river instead of toward it. We
-finally got the tent up, then threw everything into it in an
+was scattered helter-skelter over the shore. We were fortunate in
+only one respect. The wind was away from the river instead of toward
+it. We finally got the tent up, then threw everything into it in an
 indiscriminate pile, and waited for the storm to pass. Emery proposed
 that we do a song and dance just to show how good we felt; but any
 appearance of merriment was rather forced.
 
-Had the builders of the boats been there, we fear they would have had
-an uncomfortable half-hour; for nearly all this loss could have been
-avoided had our instructions regarding the hatch covers been followed.
-And for the sake of their saving a few dollars we had to suffer!
+Had the builders of the boats been there, we fear they would have
+had an uncomfortable half-hour; for nearly all this loss could have
+been avoided had our instructions regarding the hatch covers been
+followed. And for the sake of their saving a few dollars we had to
+suffer!
 
 The rain soon passed and we went to work, first starting a fire and
 getting a hurried lunch, for we had not eaten our noon meal, and it
 was then 4 P.M. We put up our dark-room tent, then went to work to
-find what was saved, and what was lost. We were surprised to find that
-all our small films and plates had escaped a soaking. Protected in tin
-and cardboard boxes, wrapped with adhesive tape, and covered with a
-coating of paraffine melted and poured over them, they had turned the
-water in nearly every instance. The motion-picture film was not so
-fortunate. The paraffine had worn off the tin boxes in spots, the
-water soaked through the tape in some instances, and entered to the
-film. One roll, tightly wrapped, became wet on the edges; the gelatine
-swelled and stuck to the other film, thus sealing the inner portion or
-picture part of the film, so that roll was saved.
-
-The motion-picture camera was filled with water, mud and sand; and the
-other cameras fared likewise. We cleaned them out as best we could,
-drying them over small alcohol lamp which we had included in our
-duffle. Our job seemed endless. Jimmy had retired early, for he could
-help us but little in this work. It rained again in torrents, and the
-wind howled about the tent. After midnight, as we still toiled, a
-land-slide, loosened by the soaking rains, thundered down the mountain
-side about a fourth of a mile below our camp. We hoped Jimmy would not
-hear it. We retired soon after this. Smaller slides followed at
-intervals, descending over the 3000-foot precipices. Thunder
-reverberated through the canyon, and altogether it was a night long to
-be remembered. These slides made one feel a little uncomfortable. "It
-would be most inconvenient," as we have heard some one say, "to wake
-in the morning and find ourselves wrapped up in a few tons of earth
-and rock."
+find what was saved, and what was lost. We were surprised to find
+that all our small films and plates had escaped a soaking. Protected
+in tin and cardboard boxes, wrapped with adhesive tape, and covered
+with a coating of paraffine melted and poured over them, they had
+turned the water in nearly every instance. The motion-picture film
+was not so fortunate. The paraffine had worn off the tin boxes in
+spots, the water soaked through the tape in some instances, and
+entered to the film. One roll, tightly wrapped, became wet on the
+edges; the gelatine swelled and stuck to the other film, thus sealing
+the inner portion or picture part of the film, so that roll was
+saved.
+
+The motion-picture camera was filled with water, mud and sand; and
+the other cameras fared likewise. We cleaned them out as best we
+could, drying them over small alcohol lamp which we had included in
+our duffle. Our job seemed endless. Jimmy had retired early, for he
+could help us but little in this work. It rained again in torrents,
+and the wind howled about the tent. After midnight, as we still
+toiled, a land-slide, loosened by the soaking rains, thundered down
+the mountain side about a fourth of a mile below our camp. We hoped
+Jimmy would not hear it. We retired soon after this. Smaller slides
+followed at intervals, descending over the 3000-foot precipices.
+Thunder reverberated through the canyon, and altogether it was a
+night long to be remembered. These slides made one feel a little
+uncomfortable. “It would be most inconvenient,” as we have heard some
+one say, “to wake in the morning and find ourselves wrapped up in a
+few tons of earth and rock.”
 
 Emery woke me the next morning to report that the river had risen
 about six feet; and that my boat--rolled out on the sand but left
 untied--was just on the Point of going out with the water. It had
 proven fortunate for us all Emery was a light sleeper! There was no
 travelling this day, as the boat had to be repaired. Emery, being the
-ship's carpenter, set to work at once, while Jimmy and I stretched our
-ropes back and forth, and hung up the wet clothes. Then we built a
-number of fires underneath and soon had our belongings in a steam.
+ship’s carpenter, set to work at once, while Jimmy and I stretched
+our ropes back and forth, and hung up the wet clothes. Then we built
+a number of fires underneath and soon had our belongings in a steam.
 Things were beginning to look cheerful again. The rain stopped, too,
 for a time at least.
 
 A little later Jimmy ran into camp with a fish which he had caught
 with his hands. It was of the kind commonly called the bony-tail or
 humpback or buffalo-fish, a peculiar species found in many of the
-rivers of the Southwest. It is distinguished by a small flat head with
-a hump directly behind it; the end of the body being round, very
+rivers of the Southwest. It is distinguished by a small flat head
+with a hump directly behind it; the end of the body being round, very
 slender, and equipped with large tail-fins. This specimen was about
 sixteen inches long, the usual length for a full-grown fish of this
 species.
 
-Now for a fish story! On going down to the river we found a great many
-fish swimming in a small whirlpool, evidently trying to escape from
-the thick, slimy mud which was carried in the water. In a half-hour we
-secured fourteen fish, killing most of them with our oars. There were
-suckers and one catfish in the lot. You can judge for yourself how
-thick the water was, that such mudfishes as these should have been
-choked to helplessness. Our captured fish were given a bath in a
-bucket of rain-water, and we had a fish dinner.
-
-In the afternoon we made a test of the water from the river, and found
-that it contained 20 per cent of an alkaline silt. When we had to use
-this water, we bruised the leaf of a prickly pear cactus, and placed
-it in a bucket of water. This method, repeated two or three times,
-usually clears the muddiest water. We also dug holes in the sand at
-the side of the river. The water, filtering through the sand, was
-often clear enough to develop the tests we made with our films.
-
-Jimmy continued to feel downhearted; and this afternoon he told us his
-story. Our surmise about his being homesick was correct, but it was a
-little more than that. He had an invalid mother, it seemed, and, aided
-by an older brother, he had always looked after the needs of the
-family. When the proposition of making the river trip came up, serious
-objections were raised by the family; but when the transportation
-arrived he had determined to go, in spite of their objections. Now he
-feared that his mother would not live, or that we would be wrecked,
-and he would not know where to turn, or what to do. No wonder he felt
-blue!
-
-All we could do was to promise to help him leave the river at the very
-first opportunity. This would quite likely be at Jensen, Utah, still
-fifty miles farther downstream.
+Now for a fish story! On going down to the river we found a great
+many fish swimming in a small whirlpool, evidently trying to escape
+from the thick, slimy mud which was carried in the water. In a
+half-hour we secured fourteen fish, killing most of them with our
+oars. There were suckers and one catfish in the lot. You can judge
+for yourself how thick the water was, that such mudfishes as these
+should have been choked to helplessness. Our captured fish were given
+a bath in a bucket of rain-water, and we had a fish dinner.
+
+  [Illustration: A COLORADO RIVER SALMON.]
+
+  [Illustration: LODORE CANYON AS SEEN FROM BROWN’S PARK.]
+
+In the afternoon we made a test of the water from the river, and
+found that it contained 20 per cent of an alkaline silt. When we had
+to use this water, we bruised the leaf of a prickly pear cactus,
+and placed it in a bucket of water. This method, repeated two or
+three times, usually clears the muddiest water. We also dug holes in
+the sand at the side of the river. The water, filtering through the
+sand, was often clear enough to develop the tests we made with our
+films.
+
+Jimmy continued to feel downhearted; and this afternoon he told us
+his story. Our surmise about his being homesick was correct, but it
+was a little more than that. He had an invalid mother, it seemed,
+and, aided by an older brother, he had always looked after the
+needs of the family. When the proposition of making the river trip
+came up, serious objections were raised by the family; but when the
+transportation arrived he had determined to go, in spite of their
+objections. Now he feared that his mother would not live, or that we
+would be wrecked, and he would not know where to turn, or what to do.
+No wonder he felt blue!
+
+All we could do was to promise to help him leave the river at the
+very first opportunity. This would quite likely be at Jensen, Utah,
+still fifty miles farther downstream.
 
 It continued to rain by spells that night and the next morning. About
 11 A.M. we resumed our work on the river. A short distance below our
 camp we saw the land-slide which we heard the night before--tons of
 earth and shattered rock wrapped about the split and stripped trunks
 of a half-dozen pines. The slide was started by the dislodged section
-of a sheer wall close to the top of the 2700-foot cliff. We also saw a
-boat of crude construction, pulled above the high-water mark;
+of a sheer wall close to the top of the 2700-foot cliff. We also
+saw a boat of crude construction, pulled above the high-water mark;
 evidently abandoned a great while before. Any person who had to climb
 the walls at that place had a hard job to tackle, although we could
 pick out breaks where it looked feasible; there were a few places
-behind us where it would be next to impossible. We had only gone over
-a few rapids when we found a long pool, with driftwood eddying
+behind us where it would be next to impossible. We had only gone
+over a few rapids when we found a long pool, with driftwood eddying
 upstream, and knew that our run for the day was over--the Triplet
-Rapids were ahead of us. We found this rapid to be about a fourth of a
-mile long, divided into three sections as its name indicated, and
-filled with great boulders at the base of a sheer cliff on the
+Rapids were ahead of us. We found this rapid to be about a fourth
+of a mile long, divided into three sections as its name indicated,
+and filled with great boulders at the base of a sheer cliff on the
 right--another unrunnable rapid.
 
 Taking the camp material from the boats, we carried it down and
 pitched our tent first of all, then, while Emery prepared supper,
 Jimmy and I carried the remaining duffle down to camp. One of the
-boats was lined down also. Then after supper we enjoyed the first rest
-we had taken for some time.
+boats was lined down also. Then after supper we enjoyed the first
+rest we had taken for some time.
 
-Camp Ideal we called it, and it well deserved the name. At the bottom
-of a tree-covered precipice reaching a height of 2700 feet, was a
-strip of firm, level sand, tapering off with a slope down to the
-water, making a perfect landing and dooryard. A great mass of
+Camp Ideal we called it, and it well deserved the name. At the
+bottom of a tree-covered precipice reaching a height of 2700 feet,
+was a strip of firm, level sand, tapering off with a slope down to
+the water, making a perfect landing and dooryard. A great mass of
 driftwood, piled up at the end of the rapid, furnished us with all
 fuel we needed with small effort on our part. Our tent was backed
 against a large rock, while other flat rocks near at hand made
-convenient shelves on which to lay our camp dishes and kettles. It
-started to drizzle again that night, but what cared we? With a roaring
-fire in front of the tent we all cleaned up for a change, sewed
-patches on our tattered garments, and, sitting on our beds, wrote the
-day's happenings in our journals. Then we crawled into our comfortable
-beds, and I was soon dreaming of my boyhood days when I "played
-hookey" from school and went fishing in a creek that emptied into the
-Allegheny River, or climbed its rocky banks; to be awakened by Jimmy
-crying out in his sleep, "There she goes over the rapids."
-
-Jimmy was soon informed that he and the boats were perfectly safe, and
-I was brought back to a realization of the fact that I was not going
-to get a "whaling" for going swimming in dog-days; but instead was
-holed up in Lodore Canyon, in the extreme northwestern corner of
+convenient shelves on which to lay our camp dishes and kettles.
+It started to drizzle again that night, but what cared we? With a
+roaring fire in front of the tent we all cleaned up for a change,
+sewed patches on our tattered garments, and, sitting on our beds,
+wrote the day’s happenings in our journals. Then we crawled into our
+comfortable beds, and I was soon dreaming of my boyhood days when I
+“played hookey” from school and went fishing in a creek that emptied
+into the Allegheny River, or climbed its rocky banks; to be awakened
+by Jimmy crying out in his sleep,
+
+“There she goes over the rapids.”
+
+Jimmy was soon informed that he and the boats were perfectly safe,
+and I was brought back to a realization of the fact that I was not
+going to get a “whaling” for going swimming in dog-days; but instead
+was holed up in Lodore Canyon, in the extreme northwestern corner of
 Colorado.
 
 
@@ -1957,63 +1988,65 @@ Colorado.
 
 CHAPTER VI
 
-
-
-HELL'S HALF MILE
+HELL’S HALF MILE
 
 We began our work the next morning where we left off the night before
-by bringing the remaining boat down along the edge of the "Triplets."
-Then, while Emery cooked the breakfast, Jimmy and I "broke camp." The
-beds came first. The air had been released from the mattresses before
-we got up,--one way of saving time. A change of dry clothing was
-placed with each bed, and they were rolled as tightly as the two of us
-could do it, after which they were strapped, placed in a rubber sack,
-with a canvas sack over that, both these sacks being laced at the top.
-The tent--one of those so-called balloon silk compositions--made a
-very small roll; the dark-room tent, with its three plies of cloth,
-made the largest bundle of the lot. Everything had been taken from the
-boats, and made quite a pile of dunnage, when it was all collected in
-a pile ready for loading. After the dishes were washed they were
-packed in a box, the smoke-covered pots and pans being placed in a
-sack. Everything was sorted and piled before the loading commenced. An
-equal division of nearly everything was made, so that the loss of one
-boat and its cargo would only partially cripple the expedition. The
-photographic plates and films, in protecting canvas sacks, were first
-disposed of, being stored in the tin-lined hatches in the bow of the
-boats. Two of the smaller rolls containing bedding, or clothing; a
-sack of flour, and half of the cameras completed the loads for the
-forward compartments. Five or six tin and wooden boxes, filled with
-provisions, went into the large compartments under the stern. A box
-containing tools and hardware for the inevitable repairs, and the
-weightier provisions--such as canned milk and canned meats--went in
-first. This served as ballast for the boats. Then the other provisions
-followed, the remaining rolls of bedding and tents being squeezed in
-on top. This compartment, with careful packing, would hold as much as
-two ordinary-sized trunks, but squeezing it all in through the small
-hatchway, or opening on top, was not an easy job. One thing we guarded
-very carefully from this time on was a waterproofed sack containing
-sugar. The muddy water had entered the top of this sack in our upset,
-and a liquefied sugar, or brown-coloured syrup, was used in our coffee
-and on our breakfast foods after that. It gradually dried out, and our
-emptied cups would contain a sediment of mud in the bottom.
+by bringing the remaining boat down along the edge of the “Triplets.”
+Then, while Emery cooked the breakfast, Jimmy and I “broke camp.”
+The beds came first. The air had been released from the mattresses
+before we got up,--one way of saving time. A change of dry clothing
+was placed with each bed, and they were rolled as tightly as the
+two of us could do it, after which they were strapped, placed in a
+rubber sack, with a canvas sack over that, both these sacks being
+laced at the top. The tent--one of those so-called balloon silk
+compositions--made a very small roll; the dark-room tent, with its
+three plies of cloth, made the largest bundle of the lot. Everything
+had been taken from the boats, and made quite a pile of dunnage, when
+it was all collected in a pile ready for loading. After the dishes
+were washed they were packed in a box, the smoke-covered pots and
+pans being placed in a sack. Everything was sorted and piled before
+the loading commenced. An equal division of nearly everything
+was made, so that the loss of one boat and its cargo would only
+partially cripple the expedition. The photographic plates and films,
+in protecting canvas sacks, were first disposed of, being stored in
+the tin-lined hatches in the bow of the boats. Two of the smaller
+rolls containing bedding, or clothing; a sack of flour, and half of
+the cameras completed the loads for the forward compartments. Five or
+six tin and wooden boxes, filled with provisions, went into the large
+compartments under the stern. A box containing tools and hardware for
+the inevitable repairs, and the weightier provisions--such as canned
+milk and canned meats--went in first. This served as ballast for the
+boats. Then the other provisions followed, the remaining rolls of
+bedding and tents being squeezed in on top. This compartment, with
+careful packing, would hold as much as two ordinary-sized trunks, but
+squeezing it all in through the small hatchway, or opening on top,
+was not an easy job. One thing we guarded very carefully from this
+time on was a waterproofed sack containing sugar. The muddy water had
+entered the top of this sack in our upset, and a liquefied sugar, or
+brown-coloured syrup, was used in our coffee and on our breakfast
+foods after that. It gradually dried out, and our emptied cups would
+contain a sediment of mud in the bottom.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “THE CANYON WAS GLOOMY, AND DARKENED WITH SHREDS OF CLOUDS.”]
 
 Such was our morning routine, although it was not often that
-everything was taken from the boats, and it only happened in this case
-because we made a portage the night before.
+everything was taken from the boats, and it only happened in this
+case because we made a portage the night before.
 
 Our work was all undone an hour later, when we came to the sharp
-descent known as Hell's Half Mile, A section of a cliff had fallen
+descent known as Hell’s Half Mile. A section of a cliff had fallen
 from above, and was shattered into a hundred fragments, large and
 small; gigantic rocks were scattered on both shores and through the
 river bed, not an orderly array of rocks such as that found at Ashley
-Falls, but a riotous mass, looking as though they had been hurled from
-the sky above. The stripped trunk of an eight-foot tree, with roots
-extending over the river, had been deposited by a recent flood on top
-of the principal barrier. All this was found about fifty yards below
-the beginning of the most violent descent in Lodore Canyon. It would
-have been difficult enough without this last complication; the barrier
-seemed next to insurmountable, tired and handicapped with heavy boats
-as we were.
+Falls, but a riotous mass, looking as though they had been hurled
+from the sky above. The stripped trunk of an eight-foot tree, with
+roots extending over the river, had been deposited by a recent flood
+on top of the principal barrier. All this was found about fifty yards
+below the beginning of the most violent descent in Lodore Canyon. It
+would have been difficult enough without this last complication; the
+barrier seemed next to insurmountable, tired and handicapped with
+heavy boats as we were.
 
 With a weary sigh we dropped our boats to the head of the rapid and
 prepared to make the portage. Our previous work was as nothing to
@@ -2024,7 +2057,7 @@ They were cut with gullies from the recent rains; low scraggy cedars
 caught at our loads, or tore our clothes, as we staggered along; the
 muddy earth stuck to our shoes, or caused our feet to slip from under
 us as we climbed, first two or three hundred feet above the water,
-then close to the river's edge. Three-fourths of a mile of such work
+then close to the river’s edge. Three-fourths of a mile of such work
 brought us a level place below the rapid. It took nine loads to empty
 one boat.
 
@@ -2032,44 +2065,50 @@ Darkness came on before our boats were emptied, so they were securely
 tied in quiet water at the head of the rapid, and left for the
 morning.
 
-The next day found Emery and me at work on the boats, while Jimmy was
-stationed on the shore with the motion-picture camera. This wild
+The next day found Emery and me at work on the boats, while Jimmy
+was stationed on the shore with the motion-picture camera. This wild
 scene, with its score of shooting currents, was too good a view to
 miss. With life-preservers inflated and adjusted, Emery sat in the
 boat at the oars, pulling against the current, lessening the velocity
-with which the boat was carried down toward the main barrier, while I
-followed on the shore, holding a rope, and dropped him down, a little
-at a time, until the water became too rough and the rocks too
-numerous. All directions were given with signals; the human voice was
-of little avail in the turmoil. We kept the boats in the water as long
-as it was safe to do so, for it greatly lessened the hard work of a
-portage. With one end of the boat floating on the water, an ordinary
-lift would take the other end over a rock with insufficient water
-above it to float the boat. Then the boat was balanced on the rock,
-the opposite end was lifted, she was shoved forward and dropped in the
-water again and another threatening rock was passed. Foot by foot we
-fought our way, now on the shore, now waist deep in the water below
-some protecting boulder, threatened every moment by the whirling water
-that struggled to drag us into the torrent. The sand and water
-collecting in our clothes weighted us down; the chill of standing in
-the cold water numbed our limbs. Finally the barrier was reached and
-the boats were run out close to the end, and tied in a quiet pool,
-while we devised some method of getting them past or over this
-obstruction.
+with which the boat was carried down toward the main barrier, while
+I followed on the shore, holding a rope, and dropped him down, a
+little at a time, until the water became too rough and the rocks too
+numerous. All directions were given with signals; the human voice
+was of little avail in the turmoil. We kept the boats in the water
+as long as it was safe to do so, for it greatly lessened the hard
+work of a portage. With one end of the boat floating on the water, an
+ordinary lift would take the other end over a rock with insufficient
+water above it to float the boat. Then the boat was balanced on the
+rock, the opposite end was lifted, she was shoved forward and dropped
+in the water again and another threatening rock was passed. Foot
+by foot we fought our way, now on the shore, now waist deep in the
+water below some protecting boulder, threatened every moment by the
+whirling water that struggled to drag us into the torrent. The sand
+and water collecting in our clothes weighted us down; the chill of
+standing in the cold water numbed our limbs. Finally the barrier was
+reached and the boats were run out close to the end, and tied in a
+quiet pool, while we devised some method of getting them past or over
+this obstruction.
 
 Directly underneath and beyond the roots of the tree were large
 rounded boulders, covered with slippery mud. Past this barrier the
 full force of the water raced, to hurl itself and divide its current
-against another rock. It was useless to try to take a boat around the
-end of the rock. The boat's sides, three-eighths of an inch thick,
-would be crushed like a cardboard box. If lifted into the V-shaped
-groove, the weight of the boats would wedge them and crush their
-sides. Fortunately an upright log was found tightly wedged between
-these boulders. A strong limb, with one end resting on a rock
-opposite, was nailed to this log; a triangle of stout sticks, with the
-point down, was placed opposite this first limb, on the same level,
-and was fastened to the upright log with still another piece; and
-another difficulty was overcome.
+against another rock. It was useless to try to take a boat around
+the end of the rock. The boat’s sides, three-eighths of an inch
+thick, would be crushed like a cardboard box. If lifted into the
+V-shaped groove, the weight of the boats would wedge them and crush
+their sides. Fortunately an upright log was found tightly wedged
+between these boulders. A strong limb, with one end resting on a rock
+opposite, was nailed to this log; a triangle of stout sticks, with
+the point down, was placed opposite this first limb, on the same
+level, and was fastened to the upright log with still another piece;
+and another difficulty was overcome.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “IT TOOK NINE LOADS TO EMPTY ONE BOAT.”]
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “AN UPRIGHT LOG WAS FOUND WEDGED BETWEEN THE BOULDERS.”]
 
 With a short rope fastened to the iron bar or hand-hold on the stern,
 this end was lifted on to the cross-piece, the bow sticking into the
@@ -2089,48 +2128,47 @@ running the lower end of this rapid. The balance of the day was spent
 in the same camp below the rapid. Our tent was put up in a group of
 box elder trees,--the first trees of this species we had seen. Red
 cedar trees dotted the rocky slopes, while the larger pines became
-scarce at the river's edge, and gathered near the top of the canyon's
+scarce at the river’s edge, and gathered near the top of the canyon’s
 walls. The dark red rocks near the bottom were covered with a light
-blue-tinted stratum of limestone, similar to the fallen rocks found in
-the rapid above. In one land-slide, evidently struck with some rolling
-rock, lay the body of a small deer. We saw many mountain sheep tracks,
-but failed to see the sheep. Many dead fish, their gills filled with
-the slimy mud from the recent rise, floated past us, or lay half
-buried in the mud. These things were noticed as we went about our
-duties, for we were too weary to do any exploring.
+blue-tinted stratum of limestone, similar to the fallen rocks found
+in the rapid above. In one land-slide, evidently struck with some
+rolling rock, lay the body of a small deer. We saw many mountain
+sheep tracks, but failed to see the sheep. Many dead fish, their
+gills filled with the slimy mud from the recent rise, floated past
+us, or lay half buried in the mud. These things were noticed as we
+went about our duties, for we were too weary to do any exploring.
 
 The next morning, Monday, October the 2d saw us making arrangements
-for the final run that would take us out of Lodore Canyon. No doubt it
-was a beautiful and a wonderful place, but none of us seemed sorry to
-leave it behind. For ten days we had not had a single day entirely
+for the final run that would take us out of Lodore Canyon. No doubt
+it was a beautiful and a wonderful place, but none of us seemed sorry
+to leave it behind. For ten days we had not had a single day entirely
 free from rain, and instead of having a chance to run rapids, it
 seemed as if we had spent an entire week in carrying our loads, or in
 lining our boats through the canyon. The canyon walls lost much of
 their precipitous character as we neared the end of the canyon.
 
-A short run took us over the few rapids that remained, and at a turn
-ahead we saw a 300-foot ridge, brilliantly tinted in many
+A short run took us over the few rapids that remained, and at a
+turn ahead we saw a 300-foot ridge, brilliantly tinted in many
 colours,--light and golden yellows, orange and red, purple and
 lavender,--and composed of numberless wafer-like layers of rock,
-uptilted, so that the broken ends looked like the spines of a gigantic
-fish's back. A sharp turn to the left soon brought us to the end of
-this ridge, close to the bottom of a smooth, sheer wall. Across a
-wide, level point of sand we could see a large stream, the Yampa
-River, flowing from the East to join its waters with those of the
-Green. This was the end of Lodore Canyon.
+uptilted, so that the broken ends looked like the spines of a
+gigantic fish’s back. A sharp turn to the left soon brought us to
+the end of this ridge, close to the bottom of a smooth, sheer wall.
+Across a wide, level point of sand we could see a large stream, the
+Yampa River, flowing from the East to join its waters with those of
+the Green. This was the end of Lodore Canyon.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VII
 
-
-
 JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN
 
+
 The Yampa, or Bear River, was a welcome sight to us in spite of its
-disagreeable whitish yellow, clay colour; quite different from the red
-water of the Green River. The new stream meant more water in the
+disagreeable whitish yellow, clay colour; quite different from the
+red water of the Green River. The new stream meant more water in the
 channel, something we needed badly, as our past tribulations showed.
 The recent rise on the Green had subsided a little, but we now had a
 much higher stage than when we entered Lodore. Quite likely the new
@@ -2140,55 +2178,62 @@ were willing, Emery and I, even anxious, to risk our chances on the
 higher water.
 
 Directly opposite the Yampa, the right shore of the Green went up
-sheer about 700 feet high, indeed it seemed to overhang a trifle. This
-had been named Echo Cliffs by Powell's party. The cliffs gave a
+sheer about 700 feet high, indeed it seemed to overhang a trifle.
+This had been named Echo Cliffs by Powell’s party. The cliffs gave a
 remarkable echo, repeating seven words plainly when shouted from the
 edge of the Yampa a hundred yards away, and would doubtless repeat
-more if shouted from the farther shore of the Yampa. Echo Cliffs, we
-found, were in the form of a peninsula and terminated just below this
-point where we stood, the river doubling back on the other side of the
-cliff. On the left side of the river, the walls fell back, leaving a
-flat, level space of about twenty-five acres. Here was a little ranch
-of which Mrs. Chew had told us. The Chew ranch lay back from the river
-on top of the cliffs. We found no one at home here at this first
-ranch, but there was evidence of recent habitation. There were a few
-peach trees, and a small garden, while beyond this were two
-buildings,--little shacks in a dilapidated condition. The doors were
-off their hinges and leaned against the building, a few logs being
-placed against the doors. Past the dooryard, coming out of a small
-canyon above the ranch, ran a little brook; up this canyon was a
-trail, the outlet to the ranch above. We camped near the mouth of the
-stream.
-
-It had been agreed upon the night before, that we should endeavour to
-make arrangements to have Jimmy taken out on horseback over the
+more if shouted from the farther shore of the Yampa. Echo Cliffs,
+we found, were in the form of a peninsula and terminated just below
+this point where we stood, the river doubling back on the other side
+of the cliff. On the left side of the river, the walls fell back,
+leaving a flat, level space of about twenty-five acres. Here was a
+little ranch of which Mrs. Chew had told us. The Chew ranch lay back
+from the river on top of the cliffs. We found no one at home here at
+this first ranch, but there was evidence of recent habitation. There
+were a few peach trees, and a small garden, while beyond this were
+two buildings,--little shacks in a dilapidated condition. The doors
+were off their hinges and leaned against the building, a few logs
+being placed against the doors. Past the dooryard, coming out of a
+small canyon above the ranch, ran a little brook; up this canyon was
+a trail, the outlet to the ranch above. We camped near the mouth of
+the stream.
+
+It had been agreed upon the night before, that we should endeavour
+to make arrangements to have Jimmy taken out on horseback over the
 mountains. Before looking for the ranch, however, we asked him if he
-did not wish to reconsider his decision to leave here. We pointed out
-that Jensen, Utah, was only fifty miles away, half that distance being
-in quiet water, and that the worst canyon was behind us. But he said
-he had enough of the river and preferred to see what could be done.
-While I busied myself about camp, he and Emery left for the ranch.
-
-About seven o'clock that evening they returned in great spirits. They
-had found the ranch without any trouble nearly three miles from our
-camp. Mrs. Chew was there and gave them a hearty welcome. She had
-often wondered what had become of us. She invited the boys to remain
-for supper, which they did. They talked over the matter of
+did not wish to reconsider his decision to leave here. We pointed
+out that Jensen, Utah, was only fifty miles away, half that distance
+being in quiet water, and that the worst canyon was behind us. But
+he said he had enough of the river and preferred to see what could
+be done. While I busied myself about camp, he and Emery left for the
+ranch.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  ECHO CLIFFS. “THIS WAS THE END OF LODORE.”]
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  END OF ECHO CLIFFS. THE MOUTH OF THE YAMPA RIVER IS ON THE RIGHT.]
+
+About seven o’clock that evening they returned in great spirits.
+They had found the ranch without any trouble nearly three miles from
+our camp. Mrs. Chew was there and gave them a hearty welcome. She
+had often wondered what had become of us. She invited the boys to
+remain for supper, which they did. They talked over the matter of
 transportation for Jimmy. As luck would have it, Mrs. Chew was going
-to drive over to Jensen, and Vernal, Utah, in two days' time, and
+to drive over to Jensen, and Vernal, Utah, in two days’ time, and
 agreed to take Jimmy along.
 
 Early the next morning two boys, one about fourteen years old the
 other a little older, rode down from the ranch. Some of their horses
-were pastured across the river and they had come after these. After a
-short visit they got into the _Edith_ with Emery and prepared to cross
-over to the pasture, which was a mile or more downstream. They were
-soon out of our sight. Jimmy and I remained at the camp, taking
+were pastured across the river and they had come after these. After
+a short visit they got into the _Edith_ with Emery and prepared to
+cross over to the pasture, which was a mile or more downstream. They
+were soon out of our sight. Jimmy and I remained at the camp, taking
 pictures, packing his belongings, and finding many odd jobs to be
 done. In about three hours the boys returned with their horses. The
 horses were quite gentle, and they had no difficulty in swimming them
 across. A young colt, too feeble to swim, placed its fore feet on its
-mother's flanks and was ferried across in that way. Then they were
+mother’s flanks and was ferried across in that way. Then they were
 driven over a narrow trail skirting the cliff, 300 feet above the
 river. No one, looking from the river, would have imagined that any
 trail, over which horses could be driven, existed.
@@ -2199,92 +2244,96 @@ to make a second trip that day. The view of the ranch was another of
 those wonderful scenic changes which we were to meet with everywhere
 in this region. The flat on which we stood was simply a pocket, shut
 in by the round-domed mountains, with a pass, or an opening, to the
-east side. A small stream ran down a mountain side, spreading over the
-rocks, and glistening in the sunlight. This same stream passed the
-ranch, and ran on down through the narrow canyon up which we had come.
-The ranch itself was refreshing. The buildings were new, some were
-under construction; but there was considerable ground under
+east side. A small stream ran down a mountain side, spreading over
+the rocks, and glistening in the sunlight. This same stream passed
+the ranch, and ran on down through the narrow canyon up which we had
+come. The ranch itself was refreshing. The buildings were new, some
+were under construction; but there was considerable ground under
 cultivation. Cattle were scattered up the valley, or dotted the rocky
-slopes below the mountains. A wild spot this, on the borderland of the
-three states. None but people of fortitude, or even of daring, would
-think of taking up a homestead in this secluded spot. The same rumours
-of the escaped prisoners had drifted in here. It was Mr. Chew who gave
-us the information we have previously quoted concerning the murdered
-man. He had found the body in the boat, in front of the post-office.
-He further stated that others in the mountains would not hesitate at
-anything to drive out those who were trying to improve a homestead as
-he was doing, and that it was a common event to find the carcasses of
-his own horses or cattle which had been ruthlessly slaughtered. This
-was the reason for putting the horses across the river. There they
-were safe, for none could approach them save by going past the ranch,
-or coming through Lodore Canyon.
-
-Mr. Chew also told us of the Snyders, who had lost their boat in upper
-Lodore Canyon, and of how he had given them a horse and provisions to
-aid them in reaching the settlements. This did not prevent the elder
-Snyder from coming back to trap the next year, much to Mr. Chew's
-disgust. He thought one experience should be enough for any man.
-
-While we were talking, a very old, bearded man rode in on a horse. He
-was Pat Lynch, the owner of the little ranch by the river. He was a
-real old-timer, having been in Brown's Park when Major Powell was
+slopes below the mountains. A wild spot this, on the borderland of
+the three states. None but people of fortitude, or even of daring,
+would think of taking up a homestead in this secluded spot. The same
+rumours of the escaped prisoners had drifted in here. It was Mr. Chew
+who gave us the information we have previously quoted concerning the
+murdered man. He had found the body in the boat, in front of the
+post-office. He further stated that others in the mountains would not
+hesitate at anything to drive out those who were trying to improve
+a homestead as he was doing, and that it was a common event to find
+the carcasses of his own horses or cattle which had been ruthlessly
+slaughtered. This was the reason for putting the horses across the
+river. There they were safe, for none could approach them save by
+going past the ranch, or coming through Lodore Canyon.
+
+Mr. Chew also told us of the Snyders, who had lost their boat in
+upper Lodore Canyon, and of how he had given them a horse and
+provisions to aid them in reaching the settlements. This did not
+prevent the elder Snyder from coming back to trap the next year, much
+to Mr. Chew’s disgust. He thought one experience should be enough for
+any man.
+
+While we were talking, a very old, bearded man rode in on a horse.
+He was Pat Lynch, the owner of the little ranch by the river. He was
+a real old-timer, having been in Brown’s Park when Major Powell was
 surveying that section of the country. He told us that he had been
 hired to get some meat for the party, and had killed five mountain
 sheep. He was so old that he scarcely knew what he was talking about,
-rambling from one subject to another; and would have us listening with
-impatience to hear the end of some wonderful tale of the early days,
-when he would suddenly switch off on to an entirely different subject,
-leaving the first unfinished.
-
-In spite of his years he was quite active, having broken the horses on
-which he rode, bareback, without assistance. We were told that he
-placed a spring or trap gun in his houses at the river, ready to greet
-any prying marauder The last we saw of him he was on his way to the
-post-office, miles away, to draw his pension for service in the Civil
-War.
+rambling from one subject to another; and would have us listening
+with impatience to hear the end of some wonderful tale of the early
+days, when he would suddenly switch off on to an entirely different
+subject, leaving the first unfinished.
+
+In spite of his years he was quite active, having broken the horses
+on which he rode, bareback, without assistance. We were told that he
+placed a spring or trap gun in his houses at the river, ready to
+greet any prying marauder. The last we saw of him he was on his way to
+the post-office, miles away, to draw his pension for service in the
+Civil War.
 
 Returning to the transportation of Jimmy, it was settled that the
 Chews were to leave early the next morning. They also agreed to take
 out our exposed films and plate for us--something we had not counted
 on, but too good a chance to lose. We all three returned to the boats
 and packed the stuff that was to go out; then went back to the ranch
-with Jimmy. It was late--after midnight--when we reached there, and we
-did not disturb any one. Jimmy's blankets were unrolled in the wagon,
-so there would be no question about his going out. He was to go to
-Jensen, or Vernal, and there await us, keeping our films until we
-arrived. We knew they were in good hands. It was with some difficulty
-that we found our way back to our camp. The trail was difficult and it
-was pitch dark. My boat had been taken down to where Emery left the
-_Edith_ when the horses were driven across, and this extra distance
-was added to our walk.
-
-We were laggard the next morning, and in no hurry to resume our work.
-We rearranged our loads in the boats; with one less man and
+with Jimmy. It was late--after midnight--when we reached there, and
+we did not disturb any one. Jimmy’s blankets were unrolled in the
+wagon, so there would be no question about his going out. He was
+to go to Jensen, or Vernal, and there await us, keeping our films
+until we arrived. We knew they were in good hands. It was with some
+difficulty that we found our way back to our camp. The trail was
+difficult and it was pitch dark. My boat had been taken down to where
+Emery left the _Edith_ when the horses were driven across, and this
+extra distance was added to our walk.
+
+  [Illustration: MARVELS OF EROSION.]
+
+We were laggard the next morning, and in no hurry to resume our
+work. We rearranged our loads in the boats; with one less man and
 considerable less baggage as well, they were lighter by far. Our
 chances looked much more favourable for an easier passage. Not only
-were these things in our favour, but in addition we felt that we had
-served our apprenticeship at navigation in rapid water, and we were
-just as capable of meeting the rapids to follow as if we had years of
-experience to our record. On summing up we found that the river had
-dropped 1000 feet since leaving Green River, Wyoming, and that 5000
-feet remained, to put us on a level with the ocean. Our difficulties
-would depend, of course, on how this fall was distributed. Most of the
-fall behind was found in Lodore and Red canyons. It was doubtful
-indeed if any section would have a more rapid fall than Lodore Canyon.
-
-There is a certain verse of wisdom which says that "Pride goeth before
-a fall," but perhaps it was just as well for us if we were a little
-bit elated by our past achievements as long as we had to go through
-with the balance of our self-imposed task. Confidence, in a proper
-degree, is a great help when real difficulties have to be surmounted.
-We were full of confidence that day when we pulled away about noon
-into Whirlpool Canyon, Whirlpool Canyon being next on the list. The
-camp we were about to leave was directly opposite Lodore Canyon, where
-it ran against the upended cliff. The gorgeous colours were the same
-as those on the opposite side, and, to a certain degree, were also
-found in Whirlpool Canyon.
-
-Our two and a half hours' dash through the fourteen miles of rapid
+were these things in our favour, but in addition we felt that
+we had served our apprenticeship at navigation in rapid water, and
+we were just as capable of meeting the rapids to follow as if we
+had years of experience to our record. On summing up we found that
+the river had dropped 1000 feet since leaving Green River, Wyoming,
+and that 5000 feet remained, to put us on a level with the ocean.
+Our difficulties would depend, of course, on how this fall was
+distributed. Most of the fall behind was found in Lodore and Red
+canyons. It was doubtful indeed if any section would have a more
+rapid fall than Lodore Canyon.
+
+There is a certain verse of wisdom which says that “Pride goeth
+before a fall,” but perhaps it was just as well for us if we were a
+little bit elated by our past achievements as long as we had to go
+through with the balance of our self-imposed task. Confidence, in
+a proper degree, is a great help when real difficulties have to be
+surmounted. We were full of confidence that day when we pulled away
+about noon into Whirlpool Canyon, Whirlpool Canyon being next on the
+list. The camp we were about to leave was directly opposite Lodore
+Canyon, where it ran against the upended cliff. The gorgeous colours
+were the same as those on the opposite side, and, to a certain
+degree, were also found in Whirlpool Canyon.
+
+Our two and a half hours’ dash through the fourteen miles of rapid
 water in Whirlpool Canyon put us in a joyful frame of mind. Rapid
 after rapid was left behind us without a pause in our rowing, with
 only a hasty survey standing on the deck of the boats before going
@@ -2292,28 +2341,29 @@ over. Others that were free from rocks were rowed in bow first, the
 big waves breaking over our boats and ourselves. We bailed while
 drifting in the quiet stretches, then got ready for the next rapids.
 Two large rapids only were looked over from the shore and these were
-run in the same manner. We could hardly believe it was true when we
-emerged from the mountain so quickly into a little flat park or valley
-sheltered in the hills. This was Island or Rainbow Park, the latter
-name being suggested by the brilliant colouring of the rocks, in the
-mountains to our left. Perhaps the form of the rocks themselves helped
-a little, for here was one end of the rainbow of rock which began on
-the other side of the mountains. Jagged-edged canyons looking almost
-as if their sides had been rent asunder came out of these mountains.
-There was very little dark red here except away on top, 2300 feet
-above, where a covering of pines made a soft background for
-light-cream and gorgeous yellow-coloured pinnacles, or rocky walls of
-pink and purple and delicate shades of various hues. Large cottonwoods
-appeared again along the river banks, in brilliant autumn colours,
-adding to the beauties of the scene. Back from the river, to the west,
-stretched the level park, well covered with bunch-grass on which some
-cattle grazed, an occasional small prickly pear cactus, and the ever
-present, pungent sage. Verdure-covered islands dotted the course of
-the stream, which was quiet and sluggish, doubling back and forth like
-a serpent over many a useless mile. Nine miles of rowing brought us
-back to a point about three miles from the mouth of Whirlpool Canyon;
-where the river again enters the mountain, deliberately choosing this
-course to one, unobstructed for several miles, to the right.
+run in the same manner. We could hardly believe it was true when
+we emerged from the mountain so quickly into a little flat park or
+valley sheltered in the hills. This was Island or Rainbow Park,
+the latter name being suggested by the brilliant colouring of the
+rocks, in the mountains to our left. Perhaps the form of the rocks
+themselves helped a little, for here was one end of the rainbow of
+rock which began on the other side of the mountains. Jagged-edged
+canyons looking almost as if their sides had been rent asunder came
+out of these mountains. There was very little dark red here except
+away on top, 2300 feet above, where a covering of pines made a soft
+background for light-cream and gorgeous yellow-coloured pinnacles,
+or rocky walls of pink and purple and delicate shades of various
+hues. Large cottonwoods appeared again along the river banks, in
+brilliant autumn colours, adding to the beauties of the scene.
+Back from the river, to the west, stretched the level park, well
+covered with bunch-grass on which some cattle grazed, an occasional
+small prickly pear cactus, and the ever present, pungent sage.
+Verdure-covered islands dotted the course of the stream, which was
+quiet and sluggish, doubling back and forth like a serpent over many
+a useless mile. Nine miles of rowing brought us back to a point about
+three miles from the mouth of Whirlpool Canyon; where the river
+again enters the mountain, deliberately choosing this course to one,
+unobstructed for several miles, to the right.
 
 The next gorge was Split Mountain Canyon, so named because the stream
 divided the ridge length-wise, from one end to the other. It was
@@ -2324,15 +2374,16 @@ of Whirlpool, scarcely pausing to look them over, but these rapids
 were bigger, much bigger. One we thought was just formed or at least
 increased in size by a great slide of rock that had fallen since the
 recent rains. We just escaped trouble in this rapid, both boats going
-over a large rock with a great cresting wave below, and followed by a
-very rough rapid. Emery was standing on top of a fifteen-foot rock
-below the rapid when I went over, and for a few moments could see
-nothing of my boat, hardly believing it possible that I had come
+over a large rock with a great cresting wave below, and followed
+by a very rough rapid. Emery was standing on top of a fifteen-foot
+rock below the rapid when I went over, and for a few moments could
+see nothing of my boat, hardly believing it possible that I had come
 through without a scratch. These rapids with the high water looked
-more like rapids we had seen in the Grand Canyon, and were very unlike
-the shallow water of a week previous. We had only travelled a half
-day, but felt as if it had been a very complete day when we camped at
-the foot of a rock slide on the right, just above another big rapid.
+more like rapids we had seen in the Grand Canyon, and were very
+unlike the shallow water of a week previous. We had only travelled
+a half day, but felt as if it had been a very complete day when we
+camped at the foot of a rock slide on the right, just above another
+big rapid.
 
 On Thursday, October 5, Camp No. 20 was left behind. The rapid below
 the camp was big, big enough for a moving picture, so we took each
@@ -2341,27 +2392,31 @@ were not so large. A few sharp-pointed spires of tinted rock lifted
 above us a thousand feet or more. Framed in with the branches of the
 near-by cottonwood trees, they made a charming picture. Less than
 three hours brought us to the end of Split Mountain Canyon, and the
-last bad water we were to have for some time. Just before leaving the
-canyon, we came to some curious grottos, or alcoves, under the rock
-walls on the left shore. The river has cut into these until they
-overhang, some of them twenty-five feet or over. In one of these was a
-beaver lying on a pile of floating sticks. Although we passed quite
+last bad water we were to have for some time. Just before leaving
+the canyon, we came to some curious grottos, or alcoves, under the
+rock walls on the left shore. The river has cut into these until they
+overhang, some of them twenty-five feet or over. In one of these was
+a beaver lying on a pile of floating sticks. Although we passed quite
 close, the beaver never moved, and we did not molest it.
 
-Another shower greeted us as we emerged into the Uinta Valley as it is
-called by the Ute Indians. This valley is eighty-seven miles long. It
-did not have the fertileness of Brown's Park, being raised in bare
+Another shower greeted us as we emerged into the Uinta Valley as it
+is called by the Ute Indians. This valley is eighty-seven miles long.
+It did not have the fertileness of Brown’s Park, being raised in bare
 rolling hills, runnelled and gullied by the elements. The water was
-quiet here, and hard rowing was necessary to make any progress. We had
-gone about seven miles when we spied a large placer dredge close to
-the river. To the uninitiated this dredge would look much like a
-dredging steamboat out of water, but digging its own channel, which is
-what it really does.
+quiet here, and hard rowing was necessary to make any progress. We
+had gone about seven miles when we spied a large placer dredge close
+to the river. To the uninitiated this dredge would look much like a
+dredging steamboat out of water, but digging its own channel, which
+is what it really does.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “HERE WAS ONE END OF THE RAINBOW OF ROCK WHICH BEGAN ON THE OTHER
+  SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS.”]
 
 Great beds of gravel lay on either side of the river and placer gold
 in large or small quantities, but usually the latter is likely to
-exist in these beds. When a dredge like the one found here is to be
-installed, an opening is made in the river's bank leading to an
+exist in these beds. When a dredge like the one found here is to
+be installed, an opening is made in the river’s bank leading to an
 excavation which has been made, then a large flatboat is floated in
 this. The dredging machinery is on this float, as well as most of the
 machinery through which the gravel is passed accompanied by a stream
@@ -2370,33 +2425,33 @@ gold is separated from the gravel and sand.
 
 Numerous small buildings were standing near the dredge, but the
 buildings were empty, and the dredge lay idle. We saw many fresh
-tracks of men and horses aid were welcomed by a sleek, well-fed cat,
-but found the place was deserted. All buildings were open and in one
-was a telephone. We were anxious to hear just where we were, so we
-used the telephone and explained what we wanted to know. The "Central"
-informed us that we were about nine miles from Jensen, so we returned
-to the boats and pulled with a will through a land that was no longer
-barren, but with cozy ranch houses, surrounded by rows of stately
-poplars, bending with the wind, for it was storming in earnest now.
-About six o'clock that evening we caught sight of the top of the
-Jensen bridge; then, as we neared the village, the sun broke through
-the pall of cloud and mist, and a rainbow appeared in the sky above,
-and was mirrored in the swollen stream, rainbow and replica combined
-nearly completing the wondrous arc. There was a small inn beside the
-bridge, and arrangements were made for staying there that night. We
-were told that Jim and Mrs. Chew had passed through Jensen about four
-hours before we arrived. They had left word that they would go on
-through to Vernal, fifteen miles distant from the river.
+tracks of men and horses and were welcomed by a sleek, well-fed
+cat, but found the place was deserted. All buildings were open and
+in one was a telephone. We were anxious to hear just where we were,
+so we used the telephone and explained what we wanted to know. The
+“Central” informed us that we were about nine miles from Jensen, so
+we returned to the boats and pulled with a will through a land that
+was no longer barren, but with cozy ranch houses, surrounded by rows
+of stately poplars, bending with the wind, for it was storming in
+earnest now. About six o’clock that evening we caught sight of the
+top of the Jensen bridge; then, as we neared the village, the sun
+broke through the pall of cloud and mist, and a rainbow appeared in
+the sky above, and was mirrored in the swollen stream, rainbow and
+replica combined nearly completing the wondrous arc. There was a
+small inn beside the bridge, and arrangements were made for staying
+there that night. We were told that Jim and Mrs. Chew had passed
+through Jensen about four hours before we arrived. They had left word
+that they would go on through to Vernal, fifteen miles distant from
+the river.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VIII
 
-
-
 AN INLAND EXCURSION
 
+
 Jensen was a small village with two stores and a post-office. A few
 scattered houses completed the village proper, but prosperous-looking
 ranches spread out on the lowland for two or three miles in all
@@ -2405,120 +2460,126 @@ fruit trees, and fields of alfalfa gave these ranches a different
 appearance from any others we had passed.
 
 We found some mail awaiting us at the post-office, and were soon
-busily engaged in reading the news from home. We conversed awhile with
-the few people at the hotel, then retired, but first made arrangements
-for saddle horses for the ride to Vernal.
+busily engaged in reading the news from home. We conversed awhile
+with the few people at the hotel, then retired, but first made
+arrangements for saddle horses for the ride to Vernal.
 
 Next morning we found two spirited animals, saddled and waiting for
 us. We had some misgivings concerning these horses, but were assured
-that they were "all right." A group of grinning cowboys and ranch
-hands craning their necks from a barn, a hundred yards distant, rather
-inclined us to think that perhaps our informant might be mistaken.
-Nothing is more amusing to these men of the range than to see a man
-thrown from his horse, and a horse that is "all right" for one of them
-might be anything else to persons such as we who never rode anything
-except gentle horses, and rode those indifferently. We mounted quickly
-though, trying to appear unconcerned. The horses, much to our relief,
-behaved quite well, Emery's mount rearing back on his hind legs but
-not bucking. After that, all went smoothly.
+that they were “all right.” A group of grinning cowboys and ranch
+hands craning their necks from a barn, a hundred yards distant,
+rather inclined us to think that perhaps our informant might be
+mistaken. Nothing is more amusing to these men of the range than to
+see a man thrown from his horse, and a horse that is “all right” for
+one of them might be anything else to persons such as we who never
+rode anything except gentle horses, and rode those indifferently. We
+mounted quickly though, trying to appear unconcerned. The horses,
+much to our relief, behaved quite well, Emery’s mount rearing back on
+his hind legs but not bucking. After that, all went smoothly.
 
 Leaving the irrigated ranches on the bottom lands, we ascended a low,
 rolling mesa, composed of gravel and clay, unwatered and unfertile,
 from which we caught occasional glimpses of the mountains and the
-gorge from which we had emerged, their brilliant colours softened and
-beautified by that swimming blue haze which belongs to this plateau
-region. Then we rode down into the beautiful Ashley Valley, watered by
-Ashley Creek, a good-sized stream even after it was used to irrigate
-all the country for miles above. The valley was several miles wide.
-The stream emptied into the river about a mile below Jensen. All parts
-of the valley were under cultivation. It is famous for its splendid
-deciduous fruits, apples, pears, peaches; splendid both in appearance
-and flavour. It excelled not only in fruits, however, but in all
-products of the field as well. "Vernal honey," which is marketed far
-and near, has a reputation for fine flavour wherever it is known. A
-thick growth of the bee-blossom or bee-weed crowded the road sides and
-hugged the fences. The fragrance of the flower can easily be noticed
-in the sweetness of the honey. The pity of it was that bushels of
-fruit lay rotting on the ground, for there were no transportation
-facilities, the nearest railroad being 90 miles distant. There were
-stock ranches too, with blooded stock in the fence-enclosed fields.
-Some of the splendid horses paced along beside us on the other side of
-the fence. We heard the rippling song of some meadow-larks this day,
-the only birds of this species we remember having seen on the Western
-plateaus.
-
-All these ranches were laid out in true Mormon style, that is, squared
-off in sections, fenced, and planted with shade-trees before being
-worked. The roads are usually wide and the streets exceptionally so.
-Except in the business streets, a large garden usually surrounds the
-home building, each family endeavouring to raise all their own
-vegetables, fruits, and poultry. They usually succeed.
+gorge from which we had emerged, their brilliant colours softened
+and beautified by that swimming blue haze which belongs to this
+plateau region. Then we rode down into the beautiful Ashley Valley,
+watered by Ashley Creek, a good-sized stream even after it was used
+to irrigate all the country for miles above. The valley was several
+miles wide. The stream emptied into the river about a mile below
+Jensen. All parts of the valley were under cultivation. It is famous
+for its splendid deciduous fruits, apples, pears, peaches; splendid
+both in appearance and flavour. It excelled not only in fruits,
+however, but in all products of the field as well. “Vernal honey,”
+which is marketed far and near, has a reputation for fine flavour
+wherever it is known. A thick growth of the bee-blossom or bee-weed
+crowded the road sides and hugged the fences. The fragrance of
+the flower can easily be noticed in the sweetness of the honey. The
+pity of it was that bushels of fruit lay rotting on the ground, for
+there were no transportation facilities, the nearest railroad being
+90 miles distant. There were stock ranches too, with blooded stock in
+the fence-enclosed fields. Some of the splendid horses paced along
+beside us on the other side of the fence. We heard the rippling song
+of some meadow-larks this day, the only birds of this species we
+remember having seen on the Western plateaus.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  PAT LYNCH: THE CANYON HERMIT.]
+
+All these ranches were laid out in true Mormon style, that is,
+squared off in sections, fenced, and planted with shade-trees
+before being worked. The roads are usually wide and the streets
+exceptionally so. Except in the business streets, a large garden
+usually surrounds the home building, each family endeavouring to
+raise all their own vegetables, fruits, and poultry. They usually
+succeed.
 
 The shade trees about Vernal were Lombardy poplars. They attained a
-height that would give ample shade under most conditions, and too much
-when we were there, for the roads were very muddy, although they had
-dried in all other sections. Nearing Vernal, we passed Nathan
-Galloway's home, a cozy place set back some distance from the road. We
-had hoped to meet Galloway and have an opportunity of talking over his
-experiences with him, but found he was absent on a hunting trip, in
-fact was up in the mountains we had come through.
+height that would give ample shade under most conditions, and too
+much when we were there, for the roads were very muddy, although they
+had dried in all other sections. Nearing Vernal, we passed Nathan
+Galloway’s home, a cozy place set back some distance from the road.
+We had hoped to meet Galloway and have an opportunity of talking over
+his experiences with him, but found he was absent on a hunting trip,
+in fact was up in the mountains we had come through.
 
 On nearing the town we were greeted by a busy scene. Numerous wagons
-and horses stood in squares reserved for that purpose, or were tied to
-hitching posts in front of the many stores. Ranchers and their
+and horses stood in squares reserved for that purpose, or were tied
+to hitching posts in front of the many stores. Ranchers and their
 families were everywhere in evidence; there were numerous prospectors
 in their high-topped boots just returning from the mountains, and oil
 men in similar garb, muddy from head to foot. Later we learned that
 oil had recently been discovered about forty miles distant, this fact
 accounting for much of the activity.
 
-The town itself was a surprise; we found it to be very much up-to-date
-considering its isolated position. Two of the streets were paved and
-oiled and were supplied with drinking fountains. There were two
-prosperous looking banks, two well-stocked and up-to-date drug stores,
-several mercantile stores, and many others, all busy. Many of the
-buildings were of brick; all were substantial.
+The town itself was a surprise; we found it to be very much
+up-to-date considering its isolated position. Two of the streets were
+paved and oiled and were supplied with drinking fountains. There were
+two prosperous looking banks, two well-stocked and up-to-date drug
+stores, several mercantile stores, and many others, all busy. Many of
+the buildings were of brick; all were substantial.
 
 Near a hotel we observed a group of men surrounding some one who was
-evidently keeping them interested. On approaching them we found it was
-Jimmy, giving a graphic description of some of our difficulties. His
-story was not finished, for he saw us and ran to greet us, as pleased
-to see us as we were to see him. He had little idea we would be along
-for two or three days and naturally was much surprised.
-
-On entering the hotel we were greeted by an old Grand Canyon friend, a
-civil engineer named Duff, who with a crew of men had been mapping the
-mountains near Whirlpool Canyon. You can imagine that it was a
+evidently keeping them interested. On approaching them we found it
+was Jimmy, giving a graphic description of some of our difficulties.
+His story was not finished, for he saw us and ran to greet us, as
+pleased to see us as we were to see him. He had little idea we would
+be along for two or three days and naturally was much surprised.
+
+On entering the hotel we were greeted by an old Grand Canyon friend,
+a civil engineer named Duff, who with a crew of men had been mapping
+the mountains near Whirlpool Canyon. You can imagine that it was a
 gratifying surprise to all concerned to find we were not altogether
-among strangers, though they were as hospitable as strangers could be.
-The hotel was a lively place that night. There was some musical talent
-among Duff's men, and Duff himself was an artist on the piano. Many of
-the young people of the town had dropped in that evening, as some one
-had passed the word that there might be an impromptu entertainment at
-the hotel. There was. Duff played and the boys sang. Jimmy was himself
-again and added his rich baritone. The town itself was not without
-musical talent, and altogether it was a restful change for us.
+among strangers, though they were as hospitable as strangers could
+be. The hotel was a lively place that night. There was some musical
+talent among Duff’s men, and Duff himself was an artist on the piano.
+Many of the young people of the town had dropped in that evening,
+as some one had passed the word that there might be an impromptu
+entertainment at the hotel. There was. Duff played and the boys sang.
+Jimmy was himself again and added his rich baritone. The town itself
+was not without musical talent, and altogether it was a restful
+change for us.
 
 Perhaps we should have felt even better if we had been dressed
 differently, for we wore much the same clothes as those in which we
 did our work on the river--a woollen shirt and overalls. Besides,
 neither Emery nor I had shaved since starting, and it is quite likely
 that we looked just a little uncouth. Appearances count for little
-with these people in the little-settled districts, and it is a common
-enough sight to them to see men dressed as we were. They did
+with these people in the little-settled districts, and it is a
+common enough sight to them to see men dressed as we were. They did
 everything they could to make us feel at ease. As one person remarked,
-"The wealthiest cattle man, or the owner of the richest mine in the
+
+“The wealthiest cattle man, or the owner of the richest mine in the
 country, usually looks worse than all others after a month on the
-range or in the hills."
+range or in the hills.”
 
-If wealth were indicated on an inverse ratio to one's good appearance,
-we should have been very wealthy indeed. We felt as if it would take
-us a week to get rested and lost little time in getting to bed when
-the party broke up. We imagine most of the residents of Vernal were
-Mormons. It is part of their creed to give "the stranger within their
-gates" a cordial welcome. This however, was accorded to us, not only
-among the Mormons, but in every section of our journey on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
+If wealth were indicated on an inverse ratio to one’s good
+appearance, we should have been very wealthy indeed. We felt as if it
+would take us a week to get rested and lost little time in getting
+to bed when the party broke up. We imagine most of the residents of
+Vernal were Mormons. It is part of their creed to give “the stranger
+within their gates” a cordial welcome. This however, was accorded to
+us, not only among the Mormons, but in every section of our journey
+on the Green and Colorado rivers.
 
 The following day was a busy one. Arrangements had been made with a
 local photographer to get the use of his dark room, and we proceeded
@@ -2527,31 +2588,31 @@ packed and shipped out. We were informed at the local express office,
 that it might be some time before they would go, as the recent rains
 had been very bad in Colorado and had washed out most of the bridges.
 
-Vernal had passenger transportation to the railway--a branch of the D.
-& R.G. running north into Colorado--by automobile, the route lying
-across the Green and also across the White River, a tributary to the
-Green. A steel structure had been washed away on the White River,
-making it impossible to get through to the station. The high water
-below here must have been a flood, judging from all reports. About ten
-bridges, large and small, were reported as being washed away on
-numerous branch streams leading into the Green River. Fortunately
-Vernal had another means of communication. This was a stage running
-southwest from Vernal, over 125 miles of rough road to Price,
-Utah--Price being a station on the main line of the D. & R.G.
+Vernal had passenger transportation to the railway--a branch of the
+D. & R. G. running north into Colorado--by automobile, the route
+lying across the Green and also across the White River, a tributary
+to the Green. A steel structure had been washed away on the White
+River, making it impossible to get through to the station. The high
+water below here must have been a flood, judging from all reports.
+About ten bridges, large and small, were reported as being washed
+away on numerous branch streams leading into the Green River.
+Fortunately Vernal had another means of communication. This was a
+stage running southwest from Vernal, over 125 miles of rough road to
+Price, Utah--Price being a station on the main line of the D. & R. G.
 
 Jimmy concluded that he would take this road, in preference to the
-uncertainties of the other route, and noon that day found him on board
-the stage. He promised to write to us, and was anxious to hear of our
-success, but remarked that when he once got home he would "never leave
-San Francisco again." There was a final hand clasp, a cheer from the
-small group of men, and the stage drove away with Jimmy, a happy boy
-indeed.
+uncertainties of the other route, and noon that day found him on
+board the stage. He promised to write to us, and was anxious to hear
+of our success, but remarked that when he once got home he would
+“never leave San Francisco again.” There was a final hand clasp, a
+cheer from the small group of men, and the stage drove away with
+Jimmy, a happy boy indeed.
 
 Our work on the developing progressed well, and with very satisfying
-results on the whole, and that evening found us with all plates packed
-ready for shipment to our home. The moving-picture film was also
-packed and shipped to be developed at once. This was quite a load off
-our minds.
+results on the whole, and that evening found us with all plates
+packed ready for shipment to our home. The moving-picture film was
+also packed and shipped to be developed at once. This was quite a
+load off our minds.
 
 The following day we prepared to depart, but did not leave until the
 afternoon. Then, with promises to let them know the outcome of our
@@ -2562,35 +2623,40 @@ foot since we had landed, and we were anxious to have the benefit of
 the high water. We were told that it was six feet above the low-water
 stage of two weeks before.
 
-On Monday, October the 9th, after loading our boat with a new stock of
-provisions,--in which was included few jars of honey, and a few dozen
-of eggs, packed in sawdust,--we began what might be called the second
-stage of our journey; the 175-mile run to Blake or Green River, Utah,
-a little west of south from Jensen. Ten miles below Jensen was a ferry
-used by the auto and wagons. Here also was a ranch house, with a
-number of people in the yard. We were invited to land and did so. They
-had been informed by telephone of our coming and were looking for us;
-indeed they had even prepared dinner for us, hoping we would reach
-there in time. Not knowing all this, we had eaten our cold lunch half
-an hour before. The women were busy preserving fruits and garden
-truck, and insisted on us taking two or three jars along. This was a
-welcome change to the dried fruit, which was one of our principal
-foods. These people made the usual request--"Drop us a post card if
-you get through."
+On Monday, October the 9th, after loading our boat with a new stock
+of provisions,--in which was included a few jars of honey, and a few
+dozen of eggs, packed in sawdust,--we began what might be called
+the second stage of our journey; the 175-mile run to Blake or Green
+River, Utah, a little west of south from Jensen. Ten miles below
+Jensen was a ferry used by the auto and wagons. Here also was a
+ranch house, with a number of people in the yard. We were invited to
+land and did so. They had been informed by telephone of our coming
+and were looking for us; indeed they had even prepared dinner for
+us, hoping we would reach there in time. Not knowing all this, we
+had eaten our cold lunch half an hour before. The women were busy
+preserving fruits and garden truck, and insisted on us taking two or
+three jars along. This was a welcome change to the dried fruit, which
+was one of our principal foods. These people made the usual request--
+
+“Drop us a post card if you get through.”
 
 The memory of these people that we met on this journey will linger
 with us as long as we live. They were always anxious to help us or
 cheer us on our way.
 
-We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at work with a team and
-scoop shovel, the method being to scoop up the gravel and sand, then
-dump it in an iron car. This was then pulled by the horses to the top
-of a derrick up a sloping track and dumped. A stream of water pumped
-up from the river mixed with the gravel, the entire mass descended a
-long zigzagging chute. We paused a few minutes only and did not
-examine the complicated process of separating the mineral from the
-gravel. This dredge had been recently installed. We camped early, half
-a mile below the dredge.
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  EACH BED WAS PLACED IN A RUBBER AND A CANVAS SACK. PHOTO TAKEN IN
+  MARBLE CANYON.]
+
+We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at work with a team
+and scoop shovel, the method being to scoop up the gravel and
+sand, then dump it in an iron car. This was then pulled by the horses
+to the top of a derrick up a sloping track and dumped. A stream of
+water pumped up from the river mixed with the gravel, the entire mass
+descended a long zigzagging chute. We paused a few minutes only and
+did not examine the complicated process of separating the mineral
+from the gravel. This dredge had been recently installed. We camped
+early, half a mile below the dredge.
 
 Emery had been feeling poorly all this day. He blamed his
 indisposition to having eaten too many good things when in Vernal--a
@@ -2601,47 +2667,46 @@ I filled some hot-water bags for the first time on the trip, and soon
 had him feeling quite comfortable.
 
 A hard wind came up that night, and a little rain fell. I had a busy
-half-hour keeping our camp from being blown away. The storm was of
-short duration, and all was soon quiet again. On the following morning
-Emery felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with him and I
-wondered if he would ever stop. Towards evening, after a long pull, we
-neared the reservation of the Uinta Utes, and saw a few Indians camped
-away from the river. Here, again, were the cottonwood bottoms, banked
-by the barren, gravelly hills. We had been informed that there was a
-settlement called Ouray, some distance down the river, and we were
-anxious to reach it before night. But the river was sluggish, with
-devious and twisting channels, and it was dark when we finally landed
-at the Ouray ferry.
+half-hour keeping our camp from being blown away. The storm was
+of short duration, and all was soon quiet again. On the following
+morning Emery felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with
+him and I wondered if he would ever stop. Towards evening, after a
+long pull, we neared the reservation of the Uinta Utes, and saw a few
+Indians camped away from the river. Here, again, were the cottonwood
+bottoms, banked by the barren, gravelly hills. We had been informed
+that there was a settlement called Ouray, some distance down the
+river, and we were anxious to reach it before night. But the river
+was sluggish, with devious and twisting channels, and it was dark
+when we finally landed at the Ouray ferry.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IX
 
-
-
 CANYON OF DESOLATION
 
+
 Ouray, Utah, consisted of a large store to supply the wants of the
 Indians and ranchers, a small hotel, and a few dwellings. The agency
 proper was located some distance up the Uinta River, which stream
 emptied into the Green, just below Ouray.
 
 Supper was taken at the hotel, after which we visited a young man in
-charge of the store, looking over his curios and listening to tales of
-his life here among these Indians. They were peaceable enough now, but
-in years gone by were a danger to be reckoned with. We slept in our
-own beds close to our boats by the river.
+charge of the store, looking over his curios and listening to tales
+of his life here among these Indians. They were peaceable enough now,
+but in years gone by were a danger to be reckoned with. We slept in
+our own beds close to our boats by the river.
 
 The following morning, when we were ready to leave, a small crowd
-gathered, a few Indians among them. Most of the Indians were big, fat,
-and sleepy-looking. Apparently they enjoyed the care of the
+gathered, a few Indians among them. Most of the Indians were big,
+fat, and sleepy-looking. Apparently they enjoyed the care of the
 government. A mile below we passed several squaws and numerous
 children under some trees, while on a high mound stood a lone buck
-Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without a single movement that
-we could see. He still stood there as we passed from sight a mile
-below. It might be interesting if one could know just what was in his
-mind as he watched us.
+Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without a single movement
+that we could see. He still stood there as we passed from sight a
+mile below. It might be interesting if one could know just what was
+in his mind as he watched us.
 
 A mile below the Uinta River, which entered on the west, we passed
 another stream, the White River, entering from the east, the two
@@ -2649,138 +2714,139 @@ streams adding considerable water to the Green River. We passed
 another idle dredge, also some mineral workings in tunnels, and saw
 two men camped on the shore beside them. We saw numerous Indian
 carvings on the rocks, but judged they were recent because horses
-figured in most of them. In all the open country the river was fringed
-with large cottonwood trees, alders and willow thickets. A number of
-islands followed, one of them very symmetrical in shape, with
-cottonwood trees in the centre, while around the edge ran a fringe of
-bushes looking almost like a trimmed hedge. The autumn colouring added
-to its beauty. The hedge, as we called it, was dark red, brown,
-yellow, and green; the cottonwoods were a light yellow. After we had
-passed this island, a deer, confused by our voices, jumped into the
-river fifty yards behind us, leaping and swimming as he made for the
-shore. We had no gun, but Emery had the moving-picture camera at hand,
-and turned it on the deer. The hour was late, however, and we had
-little hopes of its success as a picture. The country back from the
-river stretched in rolling, barren hills 200 or 300 feet high--a
-continuation of the Bad Lands of Utah, which lay off to the west.
-
-With the next day's travel the hills lost some of their barren
+figured in most of them. In all the open country the river was
+fringed with large cottonwood trees, alders and willow thickets. A
+number of islands followed, one of them very symmetrical in shape,
+with cottonwood trees in the centre, while around the edge ran a
+fringe of bushes looking almost like a trimmed hedge. The autumn
+colouring added to its beauty. The hedge, as we called it, was
+dark red, brown, yellow, and green; the cottonwoods were a light
+yellow. After we had passed this island, a deer, confused by our
+voices, jumped into the river fifty yards behind us, leaping and
+swimming as he made for the shore. We had no gun, but Emery had
+the moving-picture camera at hand, and turned it on the deer. The
+hour was late, however, and we had little hopes of its success as a
+picture. The country back from the river stretched in rolling, barren
+hills 200 or 300 feet high--a continuation of the Bad Lands of Utah,
+which lay off to the west.
+
+With the next day’s travel the hills lost some of their barren
 appearance. Some cattle were seen early in the afternoon of the
-following day. We passed a cattle man working at a ferry, who had just
-taken some stock across, which other men had driven on ahead. He was
-busy, so we did not interrupt him, merely calling to him from the
+following day. We passed a cattle man working at a ferry, who had
+just taken some stock across, which other men had driven on ahead. He
+was busy, so we did not interrupt him, merely calling to him from the
 boats, drifting meanwhile with the current. Soon we saw him riding
 down the shore and waited for him to catch up. He invited us to camp
-with him that evening, remarking that he had "just killed a beef." We
-thanked him, but declined, as it was early and we had only travelled a
-short distance that day. We chatted awhile, and he told us to look out
-for rapids ahead. He was rather surprised when he learned that we had
-started at Green River, Wyoming, and had already come through a few
-rapids.
+with him that evening, remarking that he had “just killed a beef.” We
+thanked him, but declined, as it was early and we had only travelled
+a short distance that day. We chatted awhile, and he told us to look
+out for rapids ahead. He was rather surprised when he learned that we
+had started at Green River, Wyoming, and had already come through a
+few rapids.
 
-"Where are you going to stop?" he then asked.
+“Where are you going to stop?” he then asked.
 
 On being told that our destination was Needles, California, he threw
-up his hands with an expressive gesture, then added soberly, "Well,
-boys, I sure wish you luck," and rode back to his camp.
+up his hands with an expressive gesture, then added soberly, “Well,
+boys, I sure wish you luck,” and rode back to his camp.
 
-We had difficulty in making a suitable landing that evening, as the
-high water had deposited great quantities of black mud over
+We had difficulty in making a suitable landing that evening, as
+the high water had deposited great quantities of black mud over
 everything, making it very disagreeable when we left the boats. We
 finally found a place with less mud to wade through than on most of
 the banks seen, and tied up to the roots of a tree.
 
-While lying in our beds that night looking at the starlit sky--such a
-sky as is found only on these high plateaus--we discovered a comet
+While lying in our beds that night looking at the starlit sky--such
+a sky as is found only on these high plateaus--we discovered a comet
 directly above us. An astronomer would have enjoyed our opportunities
 for observing the heavens. No doubt this comet had been heralded far
 and wide, but we doubt if any one saw it to better advantage than did
 we.
 
-Later, some coyotes, possibly in chase of a rabbit, gave vent to their
-yodeling cry, and awakened us from a sound sleep. They were in a
-little lateral canyon, which magnified and gave a weird, organ-like
+Later, some coyotes, possibly in chase of a rabbit, gave vent to
+their yodeling cry, and awakened us from a sound sleep. They were in
+a little lateral canyon, which magnified and gave a weird, organ-like
 echo to their calls long after the coyotes themselves had passed from
 hearing.
 
 The nights were getting warmer as we travelled south, but not so warm
 that we were bothered with insects. The same reason accounted for the
-absence of snakes or scorpions, for no doubt there were plenty of both
-in warm weather in this dry country. When there was no wind, the
+absence of snakes or scorpions, for no doubt there were plenty of
+both in warm weather in this dry country. When there was no wind, the
 silence of the nights was impressive, with no sound save the lapping
 of the water against the banks. Sometimes a bird in the trees above
-would start up with a twitter, then quiet down again. On occasions the
-air chambers in our boats would contract on cooling off, making a
-noise like the boom of a distant gun, every little sound being
+would start up with a twitter, then quiet down again. On occasions
+the air chambers in our boats would contract on cooling off, making
+a noise like the boom of a distant gun, every little sound being
 magnified by the utter stillness of the night.
 
 There were other times when it was not so quiet. Hundreds of birds,
 geese, ducks and mud-hens had been seen the last few days. Also there
 were occasional cranes and herons, over a thousand miles from their
-breeding place at the mouth of the Colorado. As dusk settled, we would
-see these birds abandon their feeding in the mud, and line up on the
-shore, or on an island, and go to sleep. Occasionally one of these
-birds would start up out of a sound sleep with an unearthly squawk.
-Possibly an otter had interrupted its dreams, or a fox had pounced on
-one as it slept. It may be that it was only a bad dream of these
-enemies that caused their fright, but whatever it was, that first call
-would start up the entire flock and they would circle in confusion
-like a stampeded herd of cattle, their discordant cries putting an end
-to the stillness of the night. Finally they would settle down in a new
-spot, and all would be quiet once more.
+breeding place at the mouth of the Colorado. As dusk settled, we
+would see these birds abandon their feeding in the mud, and line up
+on the shore, or on an island, and go to sleep. Occasionally one of
+these birds would start up out of a sound sleep with an unearthly
+squawk. Possibly an otter had interrupted its dreams, or a fox had
+pounced on one as it slept. It may be that it was only a bad dream
+of these enemies that caused their fright, but whatever it was, that
+first call would start up the entire flock and they would circle in
+confusion like a stampeded herd of cattle, their discordant cries
+putting an end to the stillness of the night. Finally they would
+settle down in a new spot, and all would be quiet once more.
 
 We saw a few birds that were strangers to us,--water birds which we
 imagined belonged to the salt water rather than the inland streams,
-making a little excursion, perhaps, away from their accustomed haunts.
-One type we saw on two occasions, much like a gull, but smaller, pure
-white as far as we could tell, soaring in graceful flight above the
-river.
+making a little excursion, perhaps, away from their accustomed
+haunts. One type we saw on two occasions, much like a gull, but
+smaller, pure white as far as we could tell, soaring in graceful
+flight above the river.
 
 Camp No. 26 was close to the beginning of a new canyon. The country
-had been changing in appearance from rather flat plains to small bare
-hills, gradually increasing in height with smooth, rounded sides, and
-going up to a point, usually of a dirty clay colour, with little
-vegetation of any kind on them. The river for miles past had swept in
-long graceful curves, the hills being close to the river on the
-outside of the curve, leaving a big flat on the inside. This flat
+had been changing in appearance from rather flat plains to small
+bare hills, gradually increasing in height with smooth, rounded
+sides, and going up to a point, usually of a dirty clay colour, with
+little vegetation of any kind on them. The river for miles past had
+swept in long graceful curves, the hills being close to the river on
+the outside of the curve, leaving a big flat on the inside. This flat
 gradually sloped back to hills of an equal height to those opposite.
 Then the curve would reverse, and the same conditions would be met
 with again, but on opposite sides from the previous bend. After
-passing a creek the evening before, the hills became higher, and from
-our camp we could see the first place where they came close on both
-sides to the river. We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered
+passing a creek the evening before, the hills became higher, and
+from our camp we could see the first place where they came close on
+both sides to the river. We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered
 canyons were behind us and from now on we would be hemmed in by the
 great eroded canyons of the Southwest. We were sorry to leave those
 others behind, and could easily understand why Major Powell had named
 this Desolation Canyon.
 
-As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic shapes, as
-is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation. There was a hard rock
-near the top in places which overhung a softer formation. This would
-erode, giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others were
-surmounted by square towers and these were capped by a border of
-little squares, making the whole look much like a castle on the Rhine.
-For half a day we found no rapids, but pulled away on a good current.
-The walls gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a few trees
-cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were lashed together and
-lunch was eaten as we drifted. We covered about three miles in this
-way, taking in the scenery as we passed. We saw a great stone arch, or
-natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our right, and wondered
-if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our lunch was no more than
-finished when the first rapid was heard ahead of us. Quickly unlashing
-our boats, we prepared for strenuous work. Friday the 13th proved to
-be a lucky day; thirteen large rapids and thirteen small ones were
-placed behind us before we camped at Rock Creek--a splashing, laughing
-mountain stream, no doubt containing trout.
+As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic shapes,
+as is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation. There was a hard
+rock near the top in places, which overhung a softer formation. This
+would erode, giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others
+were surmounted by square towers and these were capped by a border
+of little squares, making the whole look much like a castle on the
+Rhine. For half a day we found no rapids, but pulled away on a good
+current. The walls gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a
+few trees cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were lashed
+together and lunch was eaten as we drifted. We covered about three
+miles in this way, taking in the scenery as we passed. We saw a great
+stone arch, or natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our
+right, and wondered if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our lunch
+was no more than finished when the first rapid was heard ahead of us.
+Quickly unlashing our boats, we prepared for strenuous work. Friday
+the 13th proved to be a lucky day; thirteen large rapids and thirteen
+small ones were placed behind us before we camped at Rock Creek--a
+splashing, laughing mountain stream, no doubt containing trout.
 
 The following morning we found there was a little ranch house below
-us, but, though we called from our boats, no one came out. We wondered
-how any one could reach this out-of-the-way place, as a road would be
-almost an impossibility. Later we found a well-constructed trail on
-the right-hand side all the way through the canyon. We saw a great
-many cattle travelling this trail. Some were drinking at the river
-when we swept into view. Our boats filled them with alarm, and they
-scrambled for the hillsides, looking after us with frightened
+us, but, though we called from our boats, no one came out. We
+wondered how any one could reach this out-of-the-way place, as a road
+would be almost an impossibility. Later we found a well-constructed
+trail on the right-hand side all the way through the canyon. We saw
+a great many cattle travelling this trail. Some were drinking at the
+river when we swept into view. Our boats filled them with alarm, and
+they scrambled for the hillsides, looking after us with frightened
 expressions as we left them to the rear.
 
 We put in a full day at running rapids, one after another, until
@@ -2791,113 +2857,114 @@ long and rough, with swift water in places. Above one of these we had
 landed, then found we could get a much better view from the opposite
 shore. Emery crossed and landed, I followed. We had been having heavy
 winds all day. When crossing here I was caught by a sudden gust of
-wind and carried to the head of the rapid. I heard Emery call, "Look
-out for the big rock!" then over I went. The wind and water together
+wind and carried to the head of the rapid. I heard Emery call, “Look
+out for the big rock!” then over I went. The wind and water together
 had turned my boat sideways, and try as I would I could not get it
-turned around. I saw the rock Emery referred to straight ahead of me.
-It was about fifteen feet square and about fourteen feet from the
-shore, with a powerful current shooting between the rock and the
+turned around. I saw the rock Emery referred to straight ahead of
+me. It was about fifteen feet square and about fourteen feet from
+the shore, with a powerful current shooting between the rock and the
 shore. It seemed as if I must strike the rock broadside, and I ceased
-my struggle, but held out an oar with both hands, hoping to break the
-blow. But it never came. The water struck this rock with great force,
-then rebounded, and actually kept me from even touching the rock with
-the oar, but it caught the boat and shot it through the narrow
-channel, bow first, as neatly as it could possibly be done, then,
-turned the boat around again as I scrambled to regain my hold on both
-oars. No other rocks threatened however, and besides filling the
-cockpit with water, no damage was done.
-
-Emery had no desire to follow my passage and crossed back to the other
-side. Shooting over the upper end of the rapid, his boat ran up on a
-rounded rock, the stern sticking high in the air; it paused a moment,
-the current slowly turning it around as if on a pivot, and the boat
-slid off; then down he came lurching and plunging, but with no more
-difficulty. Many times in such places as these we saw the advantage of
-our flat-bottomed boats over one with a keel, for these would surely
-be upset when running up on such a rock.
+my struggle, but held out an oar with both hands, hoping to break
+the blow. But it never came. The water struck this rock with great
+force, then rebounded, and actually kept me from even touching the
+rock with the oar, but it caught the boat and shot it through the
+narrow channel, bow first, as neatly as it could possibly be done,
+then, turned the boat around again as I scrambled to regain my hold
+on both oars. No other rocks threatened, however, and besides filling
+the cockpit with water, no damage was done.
 
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+                    E. L. KOLB.    EMERY KOLB.
+  “NOW FOR A FISH STORY!”]
 
+Emery had no desire to follow my passage and crossed back to the
+other side. Shooting over the upper end of the rapid, his boat ran
+up on a rounded rock, the stern sticking high in the air; it paused
+a moment, the current slowly turning it around as if on a pivot, and
+the boat slid off; then down he came lurching and plunging, but with
+no more difficulty. Many times in such places as these we saw the
+advantage of our flat-bottomed boats over one with a keel, for these
+would surely be upset when running up on such a rock.
 
 
-CHAPTER X
 
 
+CHAPTER X
 
 HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN
 
-The appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed entirely in the lower
-end. Instead of a straight canyon without a break, we were surrounded
-by mountain peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side canyon between
-them and with little level parks at the end of the canyons beside the
-river. The tops were pine-covered; cedars clung to the rocky slopes.
-Some of these peaks were not unlike the formations of the Grand
-Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red colouring was once
-more found in the rocks.
+
+The appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed entirely in the
+lower end. Instead of a straight canyon without a break, we were
+surrounded by mountain peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side
+canyons between them and with little level parks at the end of the
+canyons beside the river. The tops were pine-covered; cedars clung to
+the rocky slopes. Some of these peaks were not unlike the formations
+of the Grand Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red
+colouring was once more found in the rocks.
 
 These peaks were gradually dropping down in height; and at one open
 section, with alfalfa and hay fields on gently sloping hillsides, we
-found a small ranch, the buildings being set back from the river. We
-concluded to call and found three men, the rancher and two young
-cowboys, at work in a blacksmith shop. Emery had forgotten to remove
-his life-preserver, and the men looked at him with some astonishment,
-as he was still soaking wet from the splashing waves of the last
-rapid.
-
-When I joined him he was explaining that no one had been drowned, and
-that we were merely making an excursion down the river. Mr. McPherson,
-the rancher, we learned, owned all the cattle seen up the river. The
-little cabin at our last camp was a sort of headquarters for his
-cowboys. The cattle were just being driven from the mountains before
-the snows came, and were to be wintered here in the canyons. Some of
-these cattle were much above the usual grade of range cattle, being
-thoroughbreds, although most of them ran loose on the range. This
-ranch had recently lost a valuable bull which had been killed by a
-bear up in the mountains--not unlike similar conflicts in more
-civilized sections of the country. McPherson camped on this bear's
-trail for several days and nights before he finally hung his pelt on a
-tree. He was a large cinnamon-coloured grizzly. Four other bears had
-been killed this same year, in these mountains.
-
-McPherson's home had burned down a short time before our visit, and
+found a small ranch, the buildings being set back from the river.
+We concluded to call and found three men, the rancher and two
+young cowboys, at work in a blacksmith shop. Emery had forgotten
+to remove his life-preserver, and the men looked at him with some
+astonishment, as he was still soaking wet from the splashing waves of
+the last rapid. When I joined him he was explaining that no one had
+been drowned, and that we were merely making an excursion down the
+river. Mr. McPherson, the rancher, we learned, owned all the cattle
+seen up the river. The little cabin at our last camp was a sort of
+headquarters for his cowboys. The cattle were just being driven from
+the mountains before the snows came, and were to be wintered here in
+the canyons. Some of these cattle were much above the usual grade of
+range cattle, being thoroughbreds, although most of them ran loose
+on the range. This ranch had recently lost a valuable bull which
+had been killed by a bear up in the mountains--not unlike similar
+conflicts in more civilized sections of the country. McPherson camped
+on this bear’s trail for several days and nights before he finally
+hung his pelt on a tree. He was a large cinnamon-coloured grizzly.
+Four other bears had been killed this same year, in these mountains.
+
+McPherson’s home had burned down a short time before our visit, and
 his family had removed to Green River, Utah. A number of tents were
-erected, neatly boarded up, and we were informed that one of these was
-reserved for company, so we need not think of going any farther that
-day. These men, while absolutely fearless in the saddle, over these
-rough mountain trails, had "no use for the river" they told us; in
-fact, we found this was the usual attitude of the cattle men wherever
-we met them. McPherson's respect for the river was not without reason,
-as his father, with two others, had been drowned while making a
-crossing in a light boat near this point, some years before. Some
-accident occurred, possibly the breaking of a rowlock, and they were
-carried into a rapid. McPherson's men found it necessary to cross
-their cattle back and forth, but always took the wise precaution to
-have on some life-preservers. The cork preservers hung in the
-blacksmith shop, where they could easily be reached at a moment's
-notice.
+erected, neatly boarded up, and we were informed that one of these
+was reserved for company, so we need not think of going any farther
+that day. These men, while absolutely fearless in the saddle, over
+these rough mountain trails, had “no use for the river” they told
+us; in fact, we found this was the usual attitude of the cattle men
+wherever we met them. McPherson’s respect for the river was not
+without reason, as his father, with two others, had been drowned
+while making a crossing in a light boat near this point, some
+years before. Some accident occurred, possibly the breaking of a
+rowlock, and they were carried into a rapid. McPherson’s men found
+it necessary to cross their cattle back and forth, but always took
+the wise precaution to have on some life-preservers. These cork
+preservers hung in the blacksmith shop, where they could easily be
+reached at a moment’s notice.
 
 Desolation Canyon, with a slight breaking down of the walls for a
 short distance only, gave place to Gray Canyon below the McPherson
-Ranch. A good sized mountain stream, part of which irrigated the ranch
-above, found its way through this division. We had been told that more
-rapids lay ahead of us in Gray Canyon, but they were not so numerous
-in our next day's travel. What we did find were usually large, but we
-ran them all without difficulty. About noon we met five men in a boat,
-rowing up the stream in a long, still stretch. They told us they were
-working on a dam, a mile or two below. They followed us down to see us
-make the passage through the rapid which lay above their camp. The
-rapid was long and rocky, having a seventeen-foot fall in a half mile.
-We picked our channel by standing up in the boat before entering the
-rapid and were soon at the bottom with no worse mishap than bumping a
-rock or two rather lightly. We had bailed out and were tying our
-boats, when the men came panting down the hill up which they had
-climbed to see us make this plunge. A number of men were at work here,
-but this being Sunday, most of them had gone to Green River, Utah,
-twenty-one miles distant.
-
-Among the little crowd who came down to see us resume our rowing was a
-lady and a little girl who lived in a rock building, near the other
-buildings erected for the working-men. Emery showed the child a
-picture of his four-year-old daughter, Edith, with her mother--a
+Ranch. A good-sized mountain stream, part of which irrigated the
+ranch above, found its way through this division. We had been told
+that more rapids lay ahead of us in Gray Canyon, but they were not
+so numerous in our next day’s travel. What we did find were usually
+large, but we ran them all without difficulty. About noon we met
+five men in a boat, rowing up the stream in a long, still stretch.
+They told us they were working on a dam, a mile or two below. They
+followed us down to see us make the passage through the rapid
+which lay above their camp. The rapid was long and rocky, having a
+seventeen-foot fall in a half mile. We picked our channel by standing
+up in the boat before entering the rapid and were soon at the bottom
+with no worse mishap than bumping a rock or two rather lightly. We
+had bailed out and were tying our boats, when the men came panting
+down the hill up which they had climbed to see us make this plunge. A
+number of men were at work here, but this being Sunday, most of them
+had gone to Green River, Utah, twenty-one miles distant.
+
+Among the little crowd who came down to see us resume our rowing
+was a lady and a little girl who lived in a rock building, near the
+other buildings erected for the working-men. Emery showed the child
+a picture of his four-year-old daughter, Edith, with her mother--a
 picture he always carried in a note-book. Then he had her get in the
 boat with him, and we made a photograph of them. They were very good
 friends before we left.
@@ -2906,64 +2973,68 @@ In a few hours we emerged from the low-walled canyon into a level
 country. A large butte, perhaps 700 feet high, stood out by itself, a
 mile from the main cliffs. This was Gunnison Butte, an old landmark
 near the Gunnison trail. We were anxious to reach Blake or Green
-River, Utah, not many miles below, that evening; but we failed to make
-it. There were several rapids, some of them quite large, and we had
-run them all when we came to a low dam that obstructed our passage,
-While looking it over, seeing how best to make a portage, a young man
-whom we had just seen remarked: "Well, boys, you had better tie up and
-I will help you in the morning."
-
-It was 5.30 then, and we were still six miles from Green River, so we
-took his advice and camped. On seeing our sleeping bags, tightly
-strapped and making rather small roll, he remarked: "Well, you fellows
-are not Mormons; I can tell by the size of your beds!"
-
-Our new friend gave the name of Wolverton. There was another man named
-Wilson who owned a ranch just below the dam. Both of these men were
-much interested in our experiences. Wolverton had considerable
-knowledge of the river and of boats; very little persuasion would have
-been necessary to have had him for a companion on the balance of our
-journey. But we had made up our minds to make it alone, now, as it
-looked feasible. Both Wilson and Wolverton knew the country below
-Green River, Utah, having made surveys through much of the surrounding
-territory. Wolverton said we must surely see his father, who lived
-down the river and who was an enthusiast on motor boats. A few
-minutes' work the next morning sufficed to get our boats over the dam.
-The dam was constructed of loose rock and piles, chinked with brush
-and covered with sloping planks,--just a small dam to raise the water
-for irrigation purposes. Much of the water ran through the canal; in
-places the planks were dry, in others some water ran over. The boats,
-being unloaded were pulled up on these planks, then slid into the
-water below. Wilson had a large water wheel for irrigation purposes,
-the first of several such wheels which we were to see this day. These
-wheels, twenty feet or more in height,--with slender metal buckets
-each holding gallons of water, fastened at intervals on either
-side,--were placed in a swift current, anchored on the shore to stout
-piles, or erected over mill-races cut in the banks. There they
-revolved, the buckets filling and emptying automatically, the water
-running off in troughs above the level of the river back to the
-fertile soil. Some of these wheels had ingenious floating arrangements
-whereby they accommodated themselves to the different stages of a
-rising or falling river. We took a few pictures of Wilson's place
-before leaving. He informed us that he had telephoned to certain
-people in Green River who would help us in various ways. Two hours'
-rowing, past many pretty little ranches, brought us to the railroad
-bridge, a grateful sight to us. A pumping plant stood beside the
-bridge under charge of Captain Yokey, one of Wilson's friends. Yokey
-owned a large motor boat, which was tied up to the shore. Our boats
-were left in his charge while we went up to the town, a mile distant.
-Another of Wilson's friends met us, and secured a dark room for us so
-that we could do a little developing and we prepared for work on the
-following day.
-
-That night a newspaper reporter hunted us out, anxious for a story. We
-gave him what we had, making light of our previous difficulties, which
-were exciting enough at times; but owing to the comparatively small
-size of the stream, we seldom thought our lives were in any great
-danger. The papers made the most of these things, and the stories that
-came out had little semblance to our original statements. We have
-since learned that no matter how much one minimizes such things, they
-are seldom published as reported.
+River, Utah, not many miles below, that evening; but we failed to
+make it. There were several rapids, some of them quite large, and
+we had run them all when we came to a low dam that obstructed our
+passage, While looking it over, seeing how best to make a portage, a
+young man whom we had just seen remarked:
+
+“Well, boys, you had better tie up and I will help you in the
+morning.”
+
+It was 5.30 then, and we were still six miles from Green River, so
+we took his advice and camped. On seeing our sleeping bags, tightly
+strapped and making rather a small roll, he remarked:
+
+“Well, you fellows are not Mormons; I can tell by the size of your
+beds!”
+
+Our new friend gave the name of Wolverton. There was another man
+named Wilson who owned a ranch just below the dam. Both of these men
+were much interested in our experiences. Wolverton had considerable
+knowledge of the river and of boats; very little persuasion would
+have been necessary to have had him for a companion on the balance
+of our journey. But we had made up our minds to make it alone, now,
+as it looked feasible. Both Wilson and Wolverton knew the country
+below Green River, Utah, having made surveys through much of the
+surrounding territory. Wolverton said we must surely see his father,
+who lived down the river and who was an enthusiast on motor boats. A
+few minutes’ work the next morning sufficed to get our boats over the
+dam. The dam was constructed of loose rock and piles, chinked with
+brush and covered with sloping planks,--just a small dam to raise
+the water for irrigation purposes. Much of the water ran through the
+canal; in places the planks were dry, in others some water ran over.
+The boats, being unloaded, were pulled up on these planks, then slid
+into the water below. Wilson had a large water wheel for irrigation
+purposes, the first of several such wheels which we were to see this
+day. These wheels, twenty feet or more in height,--with slender
+metal buckets each holding gallons of water, fastened at intervals
+on either side,--were placed in a swift current, anchored on the
+shore to stout piles, or erected over mill-races cut in the banks.
+There they revolved, the buckets filling and emptying automatically,
+the water running off in troughs above the level of the river back
+to the fertile soil. Some of these wheels had ingenious floating
+arrangements whereby they accommodated themselves to the different
+stages of a rising or falling river. We took a few pictures of
+Wilson’s place before leaving. He informed us that he had telephoned
+to certain people in Green River who would help us in various ways.
+Two hours’ rowing, past many pretty little ranches, brought us to the
+railroad bridge, a grateful sight to us. A pumping plant stood beside
+the bridge under charge of Captain Yokey, one of Wilson’s friends.
+Yokey owned a large motor boat, which was tied up to the shore. Our
+boats were left in his charge while we went up to the town, a mile
+distant. Another of Wilson’s friends met us, and secured a dark room
+for us so that we could do a little developing and we prepared for
+work on the following day.
+
+That night a newspaper reporter hunted us out, anxious for a story.
+We gave him what we had, making light of our previous difficulties,
+which were exciting enough at times; but owing to the comparatively
+small size of the stream, we seldom thought our lives were in
+any great danger. The papers made the most of these things, and
+the stories that came out had little semblance to our original
+statements. We have since learned that no matter how much one
+minimizes such things, they are seldom published as reported.
 
 We put in a busy day unpacking new films and plates developing all
 films from the smaller cameras and sending these home. A new stock of
@@ -2979,19 +3050,20 @@ constructed, with rubber gaskets and heavy clamps, every possible
 precaution had been taken, it seemed, to exclude the water and still
 render them easy of access. They were about thirty inches long,
 fifteen wide, and twelve high, just the thing for our photographic
-material. Up to this time everything had to be kept under the deck
+material. Up to this time everything had to be kept under the decks
 when in bad water. These boxes were placed in the open section in
-front of us, and were thoroughly fastened to the ribs to prevent loss,
-ready to be opened or closed in a moment, quite a convenience when
-pictures had to be taken hurriedly.
+front of us, and were thoroughly fastened to the ribs to prevent
+loss, ready to be opened or closed in a moment, quite a convenience
+when pictures had to be taken hurriedly.
 
 The following day we went over the boats, caulking few leaks. The
 bottoms of the boats were considerably the worse for wear, owing to
-our difficulties in the first canyons. We got some thin oak strips and
-nailed them on the bottom to help protect them, when portaging.
+our difficulties in the first canyons. We got some thin oak strips
+and nailed them on the bottom to help protect them, when portaging.
 Sliding the boats on the scouring sand and rough-surfaced rock was
-hard on the half-inch boards on the bottom of the boats. This work was
-all completed that day, and everything was ready for the next plunge.
+hard on the half-inch boards on the bottom of the boats. This work
+was all completed that day, and everything was ready for the next
+plunge.
 
 In passing the station, we noticed the elevation above sea-level was
 placed at 4085 feet, and remembered that Green River, Wyoming, was
@@ -3001,14 +3073,14 @@ any rapids since leaving Lodore Canyon; we were hopeful that our good
 luck would continue.
 
 Nothing was to be feared from what remained of the Green River, 120
-miles or more, for motor boats made the journey to its junction with
-the Grand, and we were told even ascended the Grand for some distance.
-Below this junction was the Colorado River, a different stream from
-the one we were still to navigate.
+miles or more, for motor boats made the journey to its junction
+with the Grand, and we were told even ascended the Grand for some
+distance. Below this junction was the Colorado River, a different
+stream from the one we were still to navigate.
 
 Before leaving, we ate a final hearty breakfast at the boarding-house
-where we had been taking our meals. A number of young men, clerks in
-some of the business houses here, were among the boarders. The
+where we had been taking our meals. A number of young men, clerks
+in some of the business houses here, were among the boarders. The
 landlady a whole-souled German woman and an excellent cook, was
 greatly worried over their small appetites, thinking it was a
 reflection on her table. She remarked that she hoped we had good
@@ -3025,152 +3097,154 @@ sheepish grin on his face, and with a good-sized lunch before him.
 
 CHAPTER XI
 
-
-
 WONDERS OF EROSION
 
+
 _Thursday, October the 19th_. We embarked again with two of our
 new-found friends on board as passengers for a short ride, their
 intention being to hunt as they walked back. They left us at a ranch
-beside the San Rafael River, a small stream entering from the west.
+beside the San Rafæl River, a small stream entering from the west.
 They left some mail with us to be delivered to Mr. Wolverton, whose
 son we had met above. About 20 miles below Green River we reached his
-home. Judging by a number of boats--both motor and row boats--tied to
-his landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man. After
+home. Judging by a number of boats--both motor and row boats--tied
+to his landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man. After
 glancing over his mail, he asked how we had come and was interested
 when he learned that we were making a boating trip. He was decidedly
-interested when he saw the boats and learned that we were going to our
-home in the Grand Canyon. His first impression was that we were merely
-making a little pleasure trip on the quiet water.
+interested when he saw the boats and learned that we were going to
+our home in the Grand Canyon. His first impression was that we were
+merely making a little pleasure trip on the quiet water.
 
 Going carefully over the boats, he remarked that they met with his
-approval with one exception. They seemed to be a little bit short for
-the heavy rapids of the Colorado, he thought. He agreed that our
+approval with one exception. They seemed to be a little bit short
+for the heavy rapids of the Colorado, he thought. He agreed that our
 experience in the upper rapids had been good training, but said there
 was no comparison in the rapids. We would have a river ten times as
 great as in Lodore to contend with; and in numerous places, for short
 distances, the descent was as abrupt as anything we had seen on the
 Green. Wolverton was personally acquainted with a number of the men
 who had made the river trip, and, with the one exception of Major
-Powell's expeditions, had met all the parties who had successfully
-navigated its waters. This not only included Galloway's and Stone's
+Powell’s expeditions, had met all the parties who had successfully
+navigated its waters. This not only included Galloway’s and Stone’s
 respective expeditions, which had made the entire trip, but included
 two other expeditions which began at Green River, Utah, and had gone
 through the canyons of the Colorado.[4] These were the Brown-Stanton
-expedition, which made a railroad survey through the canyons of the
-Colorado; and another commonly known as the Russell-Monnette
+expedition, which made a railroad survey through the canyons of
+the Colorado; and another commonly known as the Russell-Monnette
 expedition, two of the party making the complete trip, arriving at
 Needles after a voyage filled with adventure and many narrow escapes.
 Mr. Wolverton remarked that every one knew of those who had navigated
 the entire series of canyons, but that few people knew of those who
-had been unsuccessful. He knew of seven parties that had failed to get
-through Cataract Canyon's forty-one miles of rapids, with their boats,
-most of them never being heard of again.
-
-These unsuccessful parties were often miners or prospectors who wished
-to get into the comparatively flat country which began about fifty
-miles below the Junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. Here lay
-Glen Canyon, with 150 miles of quiet water. Nothing need be feared in
-this, or in the 120 miles of good boating from Green River, Utah, to
-the junction. Between these two points, however, lay Cataract Canyon,
-beginning at the junction of the two rivers. Judging by its unsavory
-record, Cataract Canyon was something to be feared.
+had been unsuccessful. He knew of seven parties that had failed to
+get through Cataract Canyon’s forty-one miles of rapids, with their
+boats, most of them never being heard of again.
+
+These unsuccessful parties were often miners or prospectors who
+wished to get into the comparatively flat country which began about
+fifty miles below the Junction of the Green and the Grand rivers.
+Here lay Glen Canyon, with 150 miles of quiet water. Nothing need
+be feared in this, or in the 120 miles of good boating from Green
+River, Utah, to the junction. Between these two points, however, lay
+Cataract Canyon, beginning at the junction of the two rivers. Judging
+by its unsavory record, Cataract Canyon was something to be feared.
 
 Among these parties who had made short trips on the river was one
-composed of two men. Phil Foote was a gambler, stage robber, and bad
-man in general. He had broken out of jail in Salt Lake City and,
-accompanied by another of similar character, stole a boat at Green
-River, Utah, and proceeded down the river. Soon after entering
+composed of two men. Phil Foote was a gambler, stage robber, and
+bad man in general. He had broken out of jail in Salt Lake City
+and, accompanied by another of similar character, stole a boat at
+Green River, Utah, and proceeded down the river. Soon after entering
 Cataract Canyon, they lost their boat and provisions. Finding a tent
 which had been washed down the river, they tore it into strips and
 constructed a raft out driftwood, tying the logs together with the
 strips of canvas. Days of hardship followed, and starvation stared
-them in the face; until finally Foote's partner gave up, said he would
-drown himself. With an oath Foote drew his revolver, saying he had
-enough of such cowardice and would save him the trouble. His companion
-then begged for his life, saying he would stick to the end, and they
-finally got through to the Hite ranch, which lay a short distance
-below. They were taken care of here, and terminated their voyage a
-short distance beyond, going out over land. Foote was afterwards shot
-and killed while holding up a stage in Nevada.
+them in the face; until finally Foote’s partner gave up, said he
+would drown himself. With an oath Foote drew his revolver, saying
+he had enough of such cowardice and would save him the trouble. His
+companion then begged for his life, saying he would stick to the
+end, and they finally got through to the Hite ranch, which lay a
+short distance below. They were taken care of here, and terminated
+their voyage a short distance beyond, going out over land. Foote was
+afterwards shot and killed while holding up a stage in Nevada.
 
 The Hite ranch also proved to be a place of refuge for others, the
 sole survivors of two other parties who were wrecked, one person
-escaping on each occasion. Hite's ranch, and Lee's Ferry, 140 miles
+escaping on each occasion. Hite’s ranch, and Lee’s Ferry, 140 miles
 below Hite, had mail service. We had left instructions at the
 post-office to forward our mail to one or the other of these points.
 These were also the only places on our 425-mile run to Bright Angel
-Trail where we could expect to see any people, so we were informed. We
-were about to descend into what is, possibly, the least inhabited
+Trail where we could expect to see any people, so we were informed.
+We were about to descend into what is, possibly, the least inhabited
 portion of the United States of America.
 
+  [Illustration: THE CENTER OF THREE SYMMETRICAL FORMATIONS IN THE
+  DOUBLE BOW KNOT.]
+
 A party of civil engineers working here, joined us that evening at
-Wolverton's home. A young man in the party asked us if we would
+Wolverton’s home. A young man in the party asked us if we would
 consent to carry a letter through with us and mail it at our
 destination. He thought it would be an interesting souvenir for the
 person to whom it was addressed. We agreed to do our best, but would
 not guarantee delivery. The next morning two letters were given us to
-mail, and were accepted with this one reservation. Before leaving Mr.
-Wolverton showed us his motor boat with much pardonable pride. On this
-boat he sometimes took small parties down to the beginning of the
-Colorado River, and up the Grand, a round trip of three hundred miles
-or more. The boat had never been taken down the Colorado for the
-simple reason that the rapids began almost immediately below the
+mail, and were accepted with this one reservation. Before leaving
+Mr. Wolverton showed us his motor boat with much pardonable pride. On
+this boat he sometimes took small parties down to the beginning of
+the Colorado River, and up the Grand, a round trip of three hundred
+miles or more. The boat had never been taken down the Colorado for
+the simple reason that the rapids began almost immediately below the
 junction.
 
-Wolverton, while he had never been through the rapids in a boat, had
-followed the river on foot for several miles and was thoroughly
+Wolverton, while he had never been through the rapids in a boat,
+had followed the river on foot for several miles and was thoroughly
 familiar with their nature. On parting he remarked,
 
-"Well, boys, you are going to tackle a mighty hard proposition, but
-I'm sure you can make it if you are only careful. But look out and go
-easy."
+“Well, boys, you are going to tackle a mighty hard proposition, but
+I’m sure you can make it if you are only careful. But look out and go
+easy.”
 
 Wolverton was no novice, speaking from much experience in bad water,
 and we were greatly impressed by what he had to say.
 
 Five uneventful days were spent in Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons,
 through which the Green peacefully completed its rather violent
-descent. In the upper end we usually found rough water in the canyons
-and quiet water in the open sections. Here at least were two canyons,
-varying from 300 feet at their beginning to 1300 in depth, both
-without a rapid. The first of these was Labyrinth Canyon, so named
-from its elaborately winding course as well as its wonderful intricate
-system of dry, lateral canyons, and its reproduction in rock of
-architectural forms, castles, arches, and grottos; even animals and
-people were represented in every varying form.
+descent. In the upper end we usually found rough water in the
+canyons and quiet water in the open sections. Here at least were two
+canyons, varying from 300 feet at their beginning to 1300 in depth,
+both without a rapid. The first of these was Labyrinth Canyon, so
+named from its elaborately winding course as well as its wonderful
+intricate system of dry, lateral canyons, and its reproduction in
+rock of architectural forms, castles, arches, and grottos; even
+animals and people were represented in every varying form.
 
 Our Sunday camp was beside what might be called a serpentine curve or
 series of loops in the river. This was at the centre of what is known
-as the Double Bow Knot, three rounded loops, very symmetrical in form,
-with an almost circular formation of flat-topped rock, a mile or more
-in diameter in the centre of each loop. A narrow neck of rock connects
-these formations to the main mesa, all being on the same level, about
-700 feet above the river. The upper half of the rock walls was sheer;
-below was a steep boulder-covered slope. The centre formation is the
-largest and most perfect, being nearly two miles in diameter and
-almost round; so much so, that a very few minutes are necessary to
-climb over the narrow neck which connects this formation to the mesa.
-It took 45 minutes of hard rowing on a good current to take us around
-this one loop. The neck is being rapidly eroded, two hundred feet
-having disappeared from the top, and at some distant day will
-doubtless disappear entirely, making a short cut for the river, and
-will leave a rounded island of rock standing seven hundred feet above
-the river. A bird's-eye view of the three loops would compare well in
-shape to the little mechanical contrivance known as the "eye" in the
-combination of "hook and eye." All women and many men will get a clear
-idea the shape of the Double Bow Knot from this comparison.
+as the Double Bow Knot, three rounded loops, very symmetrical in
+form, with an almost circular formation of flat-topped rock, a mile
+or more in diameter in the centre of each loop. A narrow neck of rock
+connects these formations to the main mesa, all being on the same
+level, about 700 feet above the river. The upper half of the rock
+walls was sheer; below was a steep boulder-covered slope. The centre
+formation is the largest and most perfect, being nearly two miles in
+diameter and almost round; so much so, that a very few minutes are
+necessary to climb over the narrow neck which connects this formation
+to the mesa. It took 45 minutes of hard rowing on a good current to
+take us around this one loop. The neck is being rapidly eroded, two
+hundred feet having disappeared from the top, and at some distant day
+will doubtless disappear entirely, making a short cut for the river,
+and will leave a rounded island of rock standing seven hundred feet
+above the river. A bird’s-eye view of the three loops would compare
+well in shape to the little mechanical contrivance known as the “eye”
+in the combination of “hook and eye.” All women and many men will get
+a clear idea the shape of the Double Bow Knot from this comparison.
 
 We recorded an interesting experiment with the thermometer at this
-camp, showing a great variety of temperatures, unbelievable almost to
-one who knows nothing of conditions in these semi-arid plateaus. A
-little ice had formed the night before. Under a clear sky the next day
-at noon, our thermometer recorded 54 degrees in the shade, but ran up
-to 102 degrees in the sun. At the same time the water in the river was
-52 degrees Far. The effect of being deluged in ice-cold waves, then
-running into deep sunless canyons with a cold wind sweeping down from
-the snow on top, can be easier imagined than described. This is what
-we could expect to meet later.
+camp, showing a great variety of temperatures, unbelievable almost
+to one who knows nothing of conditions in these semi-arid plateaus.
+A little ice had formed the night before. Under a clear sky the
+next day at noon, our thermometer recorded 54 degrees in the shade,
+but ran up to 102 degrees in the sun. At the same time the water
+in the river was 52 degrees Far. The effect of being deluged in
+ice-cold waves, then running into deep sunless canyons with a cold
+wind sweeping down from the snow on top, can be easier imagined than
+described. This is what we could expect to meet later.
 
 The colouring of the rocks varied greatly in many localities, a light
 red predominating. In some places the red rock was capped by a gray,
@@ -3180,29 +3254,33 @@ light yellow, even blue and green being found in two or three
 sections.
 
 The forms of erosion were as varied as the rock itself, each
-different-coloured rock stratum presenting a different surface. In one
-place the surface was broken into rounded forms like the backs of a
-herd of elephants. In others we saw reproductions of images, carved by
-the drifting sands--a Diana, with uplifted arm, as large as the
-Goddess of Liberty; a Billiken on a throne with a hundred worshippers
-bowed around. Covered with nature-made ruins and magnificent rock
-structures, as this section is, it is not entirely without utility. It
-is a grazing country. Great numbers of contented cattle, white-faced,
-with red and white, or black and white patches of colour on their
-well-filled hides, were found in the open spaces between the
-sheer-walled cliffs. Dusty, well-beaten trails led down through these
-wide canyons, trails which undoubtedly gained the top of the level,
-rocky plateau a few miles back from the river. As is usual in a cattle
-country at the end of the summer season, the bunch-grass, close to the
-water supply--which in this case happened to the river--was nibbled
-close to the roots. The cattle only came here to drink, then travelled
-many miles, no doubt, to the better grazing on the upper plateaus. The
-sage, always gray, was grayer still, with dust raised by many passing
-herds. There was a band of range horses too, those splendid wild-eyed
-animals with kingly bearing, and wind-blown tails and manes, lean like
-a race-horse, strong-muscled and tough-sinewed, pawing and neighing,
-half defiant and half afraid of the sight of men, the only thing alive
-to which they pay tribute.
+different-coloured rock stratum presenting a different surface.
+In one place the surface was broken into rounded forms like the
+backs of a herd of elephants. In others we saw reproductions of
+images, carved by the drifting sands--a Diana, with uplifted arm,
+as large as the Goddess of Liberty; a Billiken on a throne with a
+hundred worshippers bowed around. Covered with nature-made ruins and
+magnificent rock structures, as this section is, it is not entirely
+without utility. It is a grazing country. Great numbers of contented
+cattle, white-faced, with red and white, or black and white patches
+of colour on their well-filled hides, were found in the open spaces
+between the sheer-walled cliffs. Dusty, well-beaten trails led down
+through these wide canyons, trails which undoubtedly gained the top
+of the level, rocky plateau a few miles back from the river. As
+is usual in a cattle country at the end of the summer season, the
+bunch-grass, close to the water supply--which in this case happened
+to the river--was nibbled close to the roots. The cattle only came
+here to drink, then travelled many miles, no doubt, to the better
+grazing on the upper plateaus. The sage, always gray, was grayer
+still, with dust raised by many passing herds. There was a band
+of range horses too, those splendid wild-eyed animals with kingly
+bearing, and wind-blown tails and manes, lean like a race-horse,
+strong-muscled and tough-sinewed, pawing and neighing, half defiant
+and half afraid of the sight of men, the only thing alive to which
+they pay tribute.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE BUTTES OF THE CROSS.]
 
 It is a never ending source of wonder, to those unacquainted with the
 semi-arid country, how these animals can exist in a land which, to
@@ -3214,143 +3292,153 @@ roots of the sage, mean nothing; the grama-grass hidden in the
 grease-wood is unnoticed or mistaken for a weed.
 
 But if the land was bare of verdure, the rock saved it from being
-monotonous. Varied in colour, the red rock predominated--blood-red at
-mid-day, orange-tinted at sunset, with gauze-like purple shadows, and
-with the delicate blue outlines always found in the Western distances;
-such a land could never be called uninteresting.
-
-The banks of the stream, here in the open, were always green. From an
-elevation they appeared like two emerald bands through a land of red,
-bordering a stream the tint of the aged pottery found along its
+monotonous. Varied in colour, the red rock predominated--blood-red
+at mid-day, orange-tinted at sunset, with gauze-like purple shadows,
+and with the delicate blue outlines always found in the Western
+distances; such a land could never be called uninteresting.
+
+The banks of the stream, here in the open, were always green. From
+an elevation they appeared like two emerald bands through a land of
+red, bordering a stream the tint of the aged pottery found along its
 shores. We were continually finding new trees and strange shrubs.
 Beside the cottonwoods and the willows there was an occasional
 wild-cherry tree; in the shrubs were the service-berry, and the
 squaw-berry, with sticky, acid-tasting fruit. The cacti were small,
 and excepting the prickly pear were confined nearly altogether to a
-small "pin-cushion" cactus, growing a little larger as we travelled
-south. And always in the mornings when out of the deep canyons the
-moist, pungent odour of the sage greeted our nostrils. It is
+small “pin-cushion” cactus, growing a little larger as we travelled
+south. And always in the mornings when out of the deep canyons
+the moist, pungent odour of the sage greeted our nostrils. It is
 inseparable from the West. There is no stuffy germ-laden air there,
 out in the sage; one is glad to live, simply to breathe it in and
 exhale and breathe again.
 
-In Stillwater Canyon the walls ran up to 1300 feet in height, a narrow
-canyon, with precipitous sides. Occasionally we could see great
-columns of rock standing on top of the mesa. Late one evening we saw
-some small cliff dwellings several hundred feet above the river, and a
-few crude ladders leaning against the cliff below the dwellings. A
-suitable camp could not be made here, or we would have stopped to
-examine them. The shores were slippery with mud and quicksands, and
-there was no fire-wood in sight. From here to the end of the canyons
-we would have to depend almost entirely on the drift-piles for
-fire-wood.
-
-A landing was finally made where a section of a cliff had toppled from
-above, affording a solid footing leading up to the higher bank. We
-judged from our maps that we were within a very few miles of the
-Colorado River. Here some footprints and signs of an old boat landing,
-apparently about a week old, were seen in the sand. This surprised us
-somewhat, as we had heard of no one coming down ahead of us.
+In Stillwater Canyon the walls ran up to 1300 feet in height, a
+narrow canyon, with precipitous sides. Occasionally we could see
+great columns of rock standing on top of the mesa. Late one evening
+we saw some small cliff dwellings several hundred feet above the
+river, and a few crude ladders leaning against the cliff below the
+dwellings. A suitable camp could not be made here, or we would have
+stopped to examine them. The shores were slippery with mud and
+quicksands, and there was no fire-wood in sight. From here to the
+end of the canyons we would have to depend almost entirely on the
+drift-piles for fire-wood.
+
+A landing was finally made where a section of a cliff had toppled
+from above, affording a solid footing leading up to the higher bank.
+We judged from our maps that we were within a very few miles of
+the Colorado River. Here some footprints and signs of an old boat
+landing, apparently about a week old, were seen in the sand. This
+surprised us somewhat, as we had heard of no one coming down ahead of
+us.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XII
 
-
-
 COULD WE SUCCEED?
 
+
 An hour or two at the oars the next morning sufficed to bring us to
 the junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. We tied up our boats,
 and prepared to climb out on top, as we had a desire to see the view
 from above. A mile back on the Green we had noticed a sort of canyon
 or slope breaking down on the west side, affording a chance to reach
-the top. Loading ourselves with a light lunch, a full canteen, and our
-smaller cameras, we returned to this point and proceeded to climb out.
-Powell's second expedition had climbed out at this same place;
-Wolverton had also mentioned the fact that he had been out; so we were
-quite sure of a successful attempt before we made the climb.
+the top. Loading ourselves with a light lunch, a full canteen, and
+our smaller cameras, we returned to this point and proceeded to climb
+out. Powell’s second expedition had climbed out at this same place;
+Wolverton had also mentioned the fact that he had been out; so we
+were quite sure of a successful attempt before we made the climb.
 
 The walk close to the river, over rocks and along narrow ledges, was
-hard work; the climb out was even more so. The contour maps which we
-carried credited these walls with 1300 feet height. If we had any
-doubt concerning the accuracy of this, it disappeared before we
+hard work; the climb out was even more so. The contour maps which
+we carried credited these walls with 1300 feet height. If we had
+any doubt concerning the accuracy of this, it disappeared before we
 finally reached the top. What we saw, however, was worth all the
-discomfort we had undergone. Close the top, three branches of dry,
-rock-bottomed gullies carved from a gritty, homogeneous sandstone,
+discomfort we had undergone. Close to the top, three branches of dry,
+rock-bottomed gullies, carved from a gritty, homogeneous sandstone,
 spread out from the slope we had been climbing. These were less
-precipitous. Taking the extreme left-hand gully, we found the climb to
-the top much easier. At the very end we found an irregular hole a few
-feet in diameter not a cave, but an opening left between some immense
-rocks, touching at the top, seemingly rolled together.
-
-Gazing down through this opening, we were amazed to find that we were
-directly above the Colorado itself. It was so confusing at first that
-we had to climb to the very top to see which river it was, I
-contending that it was the Green, until satisfied that I was mistaken.
-The view from the top was overwhelming, and words can hardly describe
-what we saw, or how we were affected by it.
-
-We found ourselves on top of an irregular plateau of solid rock, with
-no earth or vegetation save a few little bushes and some very small
-cedars in cracks in the rocks. Branching canyons, three or four
+precipitous. Taking the extreme left-hand gully, we found the climb
+to the top much easier. At the very end we found an irregular hole a
+few feet in diameter, not a cave, but an opening left between some
+immense rocks, touching at the top, seemingly rolled together.
+
+Gazing down through this opening, we were amazed to find that we
+were directly above the Colorado itself. It was so confusing at
+first that we had to climb to the very top to see which river it
+was, I contending that it was the Green, until satisfied that I was
+mistaken. The view from the top was overwhelming, and words can
+hardly describe what we saw, or how we were affected by it.
+
+We found ourselves on top of an irregular plateau of solid rock,
+with no earth or vegetation save a few little bushes and some very
+small cedars in cracks in the rocks. Branching canyons, three or four
 hundred feet in depth, and great fissures ran down in this rock at
 intervals. Some were dark and crooked, and the bottom could not be
-seen. Between these cracks, the rock rounded like elephants backs
-sloping steeply on either side. Some could be crossed, some could not.
-Others resembled a "maze," the puzzle being how to get from one point
-to another a few away. The rock was a sandstone and presented a rough
-surface affording a good hold, so there was little danger of slipping.
-We usually sat down and "inched" way to the edge of the cracks,
-jumping across to little ledges when possible, always helping each
-other.
-
-The rock at the very edge of the main canyon overhung, in places 75 to
-100 feet, and the great mass of gigantic boulders--sections of
-shattered cliffs--on the steep slope near the river gave evidence of a
-continual breaking away of these immense rocks.
+seen. Between these cracks, the rock rounded like elephants’ backs
+sloping steeply on either side. Some could be crossed, some could
+not. Others resembled a “maze,” the puzzle being how to get from one
+point to another a few feet away. The rock was a sandstone and
+presented a rough surface affording a good hold, so there was little
+danger of slipping. We usually sat down and “inched” our way to the
+edge of the cracks, jumping across to little ledges when possible,
+always helping each other.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “THE LAND OF STANDING ROCKS WAS LIKE A MAZE.”]
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “ROCKS OVERHANGING THE COLORADO’S GORGE.” NOTE FIGURE.]
+
+The rock at the very edge of the main canyon overhung, in places 75
+to 100 feet, and the great mass of gigantic boulders--sections of
+shattered cliffs--on the steep slope near the river gave evidence of
+a continual breaking away of these immense rocks.
 
 To the north, across the canyon up which we had climbed, were a great
 number of smooth formations, from one hundred to four hundred feet
 high, rounded on top in domes, reminding one of Bagdad and tales from
-the Arabian Nights. "The Land of Standing Rocks," the Utes call it.
+the Arabian Nights. “The Land of Standing Rocks,” the Utes call it.
 The rock on which we stood was light gray or nearly white; the river
-walls at the base for a thousand feet above the river were dark red or
-chocolate-brown; while the tops of the formations above this level
+walls at the base for a thousand feet above the river were dark red
+or chocolate-brown; while the tops of the formations above this level
 were a beautiful light red tint.
 
-But there were other wonders. On the south side of the Colorado's
+But there were other wonders. On the south side of the Colorado’s
 gorge, miles away, were great spires, pointing heavenward, singly and
-in groups, looking like a city of churches. Beyond the spires were the
-Blue Mountains, to the east the hazy LaSalle range, and nearest of all
-on the west just north of the Colorado lay the snow-covered peaks of
-the Henry Mountains. Directly below us was the Colorado River, muddy,
-swirllng, and forbidding. A mile away boomed a rapid, beyond that was
-another, then the river was lost to view.
-
-Standing on the brink of all this desolation, it is small wonder if we
-recalled the accounts of the disasters which had overtaken so many
+in groups, looking like a city of churches. Beyond the spires were
+the Blue Mountains, to the east the hazy LaSalle range, and nearest
+of all on the west just north of the Colorado lay the snow-covered
+peaks of the Henry Mountains. Directly below us was the Colorado
+River, muddy, swirling, and forbidding. A mile away boomed a rapid,
+beyond that was another, then the river was lost to view.
+
+Standing on the brink of all this desolation, it is small wonder if
+we recalled the accounts of the disasters which had overtaken so many
 others in the canyon below us. Many who had escaped the water had
 climbed out on to this death trap, as it had proven to be for them,
 some to perish of thirst and starvation, a few to stagger into the
-ranch below the canyon, a week or more after they had escaped from the
-water. Small wonder that some of these had lost their reason. We could
-only conjecture at the fate of the party whose wrecked boat had been
-found by the Stone expedition, a few miles below this place, with
-their tracks still fresh in the sand. No trace of them was ever found.
-
-For the first time it began to dawn on us that we might have tackled a
-job beyond our power to complete. Most of the parties which had safely
-completed the trip were composed of several men, adding much to the
-safety of the expedition, as a whole. Others had boats much lighter
-than ours, a great help in many respects. Speaking for myself, I was
-just a little faint-hearted, and not a little overawed as we prepared
-to return to the boats.
+ranch below the canyon, a week or more after they had escaped from
+the water. Small wonder that some of these had lost their reason. We
+could only conjecture at the fate of the party whose wrecked boat had
+been found by the Stone expedition, a few miles below this place,
+with their tracks still fresh in the sand. No trace of them was ever
+found.
+
+For the first time it began to dawn on us that we might have tackled
+a job beyond our power to complete. Most of the parties which had
+safely completed the trip were composed of several men, adding much
+to the safety of the expedition, as a whole. Others had boats much
+lighter than ours, a great help in many respects. Speaking for
+myself, I was just a little faint-hearted, and not a little overawed
+as we prepared to return to the boats.
 
 While returning, we saw evidences of ancient Indians--some broken
-arrow-heads, and pottery also, and a small cliff ruin under a shelving
-rock.
+arrow-heads, and pottery also, and a small cliff ruin under a
+shelving rock.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE GREEN RIVER. NOTE FIGURE.]
 
 What could an Indian find here to interest him! We had found neither
 bird, nor rabbit; not even a lizard in the Land of Standing Rocks.
@@ -3364,186 +3452,191 @@ tree, the only tree of its kind we remembered having seen on the
 journey.
 
 While Emery prepared a hasty meal I made a few arrangements for
-embarking on the Colorado River the next morning. We were prepared to
-bid farewell to the Green River--the stream that had served us so
-well. In spite of our trials, even in the upper canyons, we had found
-much enjoyment in our passage through its strange and beautiful
+embarking on the Colorado River the next morning. We were prepared
+to bid farewell to the Green River--the stream that had served us
+so well. In spite of our trials, even in the upper canyons, we had
+found much enjoyment in our passage through its strange and beautiful
 surroundings.
 
-From a scenic point of view the canyons of the Green River, with their
-wonderful rock formations and stupendous gorges, are second only to
-those of the Colorado itself. It is strange they are so little known,
-when one considers the comparative ease with which these canyons on
-the lower end can be reached. Some day perhaps, surfeited
-globe-trotters, after having tired of commonplace scenery and foreign
-lands, will learn what a wonderful region this is, here on the lower
-end of the Green River.
-
-Then no doubt, Wolverton, or others with similar outfits, will find a
-steady stream of sight-seers anxious to take the motor boat ride down
-to this point, and up to Moab, Utah, a little Mormon town on the Grand
-River. A short ride by automobile from Moab to the D. & R.C. railway
-would complete a most wonderful journey; then the transcontinental
-journey could be resumed.
-
-So I mused, as I contrived an arrangement of iron hooks and oak sticks
-to hold on a hatch cover, from which all the thumb screws had been
-lost. More than likely my dream of a line of sight-seeing motor boats
-will be long deferred; or they may even meet the fate of Brown's and
-Stanton's plans for a railroad down these gorges.
-
-As a reminder of the fate which overtakes so many of our feeble plans,
-we found a record of Stanton's survey on a fallen boulder, an
-inscription reading "A 81 + 50. Sta. D.C.C. & P.R.R.," the
+From a scenic point of view the canyons of the Green River, with
+their wonderful rock formations and stupendous gorges, are second
+only to those of the Colorado itself. It is strange they are so
+little known, when one considers the comparative ease with which
+these canyons on the lower end can be reached. Some day perhaps,
+surfeited globe-trotters, after having tired of commonplace scenery
+and foreign lands, will learn what a wonderful region this is, here
+on the lower end of the Green River.
+
+Then no doubt, Wolverton, or others with similar outfits, will
+find a steady stream of sight-seers anxious to take the motor boat
+ride down to this point, and up to Moab, Utah, a little Mormon town
+on the Grand River. A short ride by automobile from Moab to the D.
+& R. G. railway would complete a most wonderful journey; then the
+transcontinental journey could be resumed.
+
+So I mused, as I contrived an arrangement of iron hooks and oak
+sticks to hold on a hatch cover, from which all the thumb screws
+had been lost. More than likely my dream of a line of sight-seeing
+motor boats will be long deferred; or they may even meet the fate of
+Brown’s and Stanton’s plans for a railroad down these gorges.
+
+As a reminder of the fate which overtakes so many of our feeble
+plans, we found a record of Stanton’s survey on a fallen boulder,
+an inscription reading “A 81 + 50, Sta. D.C.C. & P.R.R.,” the
 abbreviations standing for Denver, Colorado Canyons, and Pacific
-Railroad. It is possible that the hands that chiselled the inscription
-belonged to one of the three men who were afterwards drowned in Marble
-Canyon.
+Railroad. It is possible that the hands that chiselled the
+inscription belonged to one of the three men who were afterwards
+drowned in Marble Canyon.
 
 Emery--being very practical--interrupted my revery and plans for
 future sight-seers by announcing supper. The meal was limited in
-variety, but generous in quantity, and consisted of a dried-beef stew,
-fried potatoes and cocoa. A satisfied interior soon dispelled all our
-previous apprehensiveness. We decided not to run our rapids before we
-came to them.
+variety, but generous in quantity, and consisted of a dried-beef
+stew, fried potatoes, and cocoa. A satisfied interior soon dispelled
+all our previous apprehensiveness. We decided not to run our rapids
+before we came to them.
 
 The water still gave indications of being higher than low-water mark,
 although it was falling fast on the Green River. Each morning, for
 three days previous to our arrival at the junction, we would find the
 water about six inches lower than the stage of the evening before.
-Strange to say, we gained on the water with each day's rowing, until
+Strange to say, we gained on the water with each day’s rowing, until
 we had almost overtaken the stage of water we had lost during the
 night. More than likely we would have all the water we needed under
 the new conditions which were before us.
 
 Beginning with the Colorado River, we made our journals much more
 complete in some ways, giving all the large rapids a number and
-describing many of them in detail. This was done, not only for our own
-satisfaction, but for the purpose of comparison with others who had
-gone through, for many of these rapids have histories.
+describing many of them in detail. This was done, not only for our
+own satisfaction, but for the purpose of comparison with others who
+had gone through, for many of these rapids have histories.
 
 It was often a question, when on the Green River, where to draw the
 line when counting a rapid; this was less difficult when on the
 Colorado. While the descent was about the same as in some of the
 rapids above, the increased volume of water made them look and act
-decidedly different. We drew the line, when counting a rapid, at a
-descent having a decided agitation of the water, hidden rocks, or
-swift descent and with an eddy or whirlpool below. Major Powell
+decidedly different. We drew the line, when counting a rapid, at
+a descent having a decided agitation of the water, hidden rocks,
+or swift descent and with an eddy or whirlpool below. Major Powell
 considered that many of these drops in the next canyon were above the
 ordinary rapid, hence the name, Cataract Canyon.
 
-At one of the camps below Green River, Utah boat had been christened
-the _Defiance_, by painting the name on the bow. After leaving the
-Green we referred to the boats by their respective names, being in the
-_Edith_, I in the _Defiance_.
-
+At one of the camps below Green River, Utah, my boat had been
+christened the _Defiance_, by painting the name on the bow. After
+leaving the Green we usually referred to the boats by their
+respective names, Emery being in the _Edith_, I in the _Defiance_.
 
-[Illustration: THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO RIVERS. THE GRAND RIVER IS ON
-THE RIGHT. NOTE BOATS.]
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO RIVERS. THE GRAND RIVER IS ON THE RIGHT.
+  NOTE BOATS.]
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIII
 
-
-
 A COMPANION VOYAGER
 
-THURSDAY morning, October the 26th, found Emery feeling very poorly,
-but insisting on going ahead with our day's work, so Camp No. 34 was
-soon behind us. We were embarked on a new stream, flowing
+
+Thursday morning, October the 26th, found Emery feeling very poorly,
+but insisting on going ahead with our day’s work, so Camp No. 34
+was soon behind us. We were embarked on a new stream, flowing
 west-southwest, with a body of water ten times the size of that which
-we had found in the upper canyons of the Green. Our sixteen-foot boats
-looked quite small when compared with the united currents of the Green
-and the Grand rivers. The Colorado River must have been about 350 feet
-wide here just below the junction, with a three-mile current, and
-possibly twenty-five feet deep, although this is only a guess. The
-Grand River appeared to be the higher of the two streams, and had a
-decidedly red colour, as though a recent storm was being carried down
-its gorges; while the colour of the Green was more of a coffee
-colour--coffee with a little cream in it.
+we had found in the upper canyons of the Green. Our sixteen-foot
+boats looked quite small when compared with the united currents of
+the Green and the Grand rivers. The Colorado River must have been
+about 350 feet wide here just below the junction, with a three-mile
+current, and possibly twenty-five feet deep, although this is only a
+guess. The Grand River appeared to be the higher of the two streams,
+and had a decidedly red colour, as though a recent storm was being
+carried down its gorges; while the colour of the Green was more of a
+coffee colour--coffee with a little cream in it.
 
 A fourth of a mile below the junction the two currents began to mix,
-with a great ado about it, with small whirlpools and swift eddies, and
-sudden outbursts from beneath as though a strangled current was
+with a great ado about it, with small whirlpools and swift eddies,
+and sudden outbursts from beneath, as though a strangled current was
 struggling to escape from the weight which overpowered it. The boats
-were twisted this way and that, and hard rowing was necessary to carry
-us down to the steadied current, and to the first rapid, which we
-could hear when yet far above it.
+were twisted this way and that, and hard rowing was necessary to
+carry us down to the steadied current, and to the first rapid, which
+we could hear when yet far above it.
 
 Soon we were running rapids again, and getting a lot of sport out of
 it. There were some rocks, but there was water enough so that these
-could be avoided. If one channel did not suit us, we took another, and
-although we were drenched in every rapid, and the cockpit was half
-filled each time, it was not cold enough to cause us any great
+could be avoided. If one channel did not suit us, we took another,
+and although we were drenched in every rapid, and the cockpit was
+half filled each time, it was not cold enough to cause us any great
 discomfort, and we bailed out at the end of each rapid, then hurried
 on to tackle the next. Each of these rapids was from a fourth to a
-third of a mile in length. The average was at least one big rapid to
-the mile. When No. 5 was reached we paused a little longer, and looked
-it over more carefully than we had the others. It had a short, quick
-descent, then a long line of white-topped waves, with a big whirlpool
-on the right. There were numerous rocks which would take careful work
-to avoid. The waves were big,--big enough for a motion picture,--so
-Emery remained on shore with both the motion-picture camera and the
-8X10 plate camera in position, ready to take the picture, while I ran
-my boat.
+third of a mile in length. The average was at least one big rapid
+to the mile. When No. 5 was reached we paused a little longer, and
+looked it over more carefully than we had the others. It had a short,
+quick descent, then a long line of white-topped waves, with a big
+whirlpool on the right. There were numerous rocks which would take
+careful work to avoid. The waves were big,--big enough for a motion
+picture,--so Emery remained on shore with both the motion-picture
+camera and the 8 × 10 plate camera in position, ready to take the
+picture, while I ran my boat.
 
 At the head of this rapid we saw footprints in the sand, but not made
-with the same shoe as that which we had noticed above the junction. We
-had also seen signs of a camp, and some fishes' heads above this
-point, and what we took to be a dog's track along the shore.
-
-At the head of the next rapid we saw them again, but on opposite side
-of the river, and could see where boat had been pulled up on the sand.
-This next rapid was almost as bad as the one above it, but with a
-longer descent, instead of one abrupt drop. The following rapid was so
-close that we continued along the shore to look it over at the same
-time, saving a stop between the two rapids. The shores were strewn
-with a litter of gigantic boulders--fallen sections of the overhanging
-cliffs. We found more of this in Cataract Canyon than in any of the
-canyons above. This was partly responsible for the violence of the
-rapids, although the descent of the river would make rough water even
-if there were no boulders. Working back along the shore, we were
-suddenly electrified into quick action by seeing the _Edith_ come
-floating down the river, close to the shore and almost on the rapid.
-Emery was a short distance ahead and ran for the _Defiance_; I caught
-up a long pole and got on a projecting rock, hoping I might steer her
-in. She passed me, and was soon in the midst of the rapid before Emery
-had launched the boat. Three gigantic boulders extended above the
-water about fifty feet from shore, with a very crooked channel
-between. Down toward these boulders came the _Edith_, plunging like a
-thing possessed. How it was done I could never tell, but she passed
-through the crooked channel without once touching, and continued over
-the rapid. Meanwhile Emery had run the other side and had gained on
-the _Edith_, but only caught her when close to the next rapid; so he
-turned her loose and came to the shore for me.
+with the same shoe as that which we had noticed above the junction.
+We had also seen signs of a camp, and some fishes’ heads above this
+point, and what we took to be a dog’s track along the shore.
+
+At the head of the next rapid we saw them again, but on opposite
+side of the river, and could see where boat had been pulled up on
+the sand. This next rapid was almost as bad as the one above it, but
+with a longer descent, instead of one abrupt drop. The following
+rapid was so close that we continued along the shore to look it over
+at the same time, saving a stop between the two rapids. The shores
+were strewn with a litter of gigantic boulders--fallen sections of
+the overhanging cliffs. We found more of this in Cataract Canyon
+than in any of the canyons above. This was partly responsible for
+the violence of the rapids, although the descent of the river would
+make rough water even if there were no boulders. Working back along
+the shore, we were suddenly electrified into quick action by seeing
+the _Edith_ come floating down the river, close to the shore and
+almost on the rapid. Emery was a short distance ahead and ran for the
+_Defiance_; I caught up a long pole and got on a projecting rock,
+hoping I might steer her in. She passed me, and was soon in the midst
+of the rapid before Emery had launched the boat. Three gigantic
+boulders extended above the water about fifty feet from shore, with
+a very crooked channel between. Down toward these boulders came the
+_Edith_, plunging like a thing possessed. How it was done I could
+never tell, but she passed through the crooked channel without once
+touching, and continued over the rapid. Meanwhile Emery had run the
+other side and had gained on the _Edith_, but only caught her when
+close to the next rapid; so he turned her loose and came to the shore
+for me.
 
 Emery had not been feeling his best and I advised him to remain on
 shore while I took the boat. As we made the change we again observed
-the boat, bounding through the next rapid, whirling on the tops of the
-waves as though in the hands of a superhuman juggler. I managed to
-overtake her in a whirlpool below the rapid, and came to shore for her
-captain. He was nearly exhausted with his efforts; still he insisted
-on continuing. A few miles below we saw some ducks, and shot at them
-with a revolver. But the ducks flew disdainfully away, and landed in
-the pool below.
+the boat, bounding through the next rapid, whirling on the tops of
+the waves as though in the hands of a superhuman juggler. I managed
+to overtake her in a whirlpool below the rapid, and came to shore
+for her captain. He was nearly exhausted with his efforts; still he
+insisted on continuing. A few miles below we saw some ducks, and shot
+at them with a revolver. But the ducks flew disdainfully away, and
+landed in the pool below.
 
 By 4.30 P.M. we were twelve miles below the junction, a very good
-day's run considering the kind of water we were travelling on, and the
-amount of time we spent on the shore. We had just run our twelfth
+day’s run considering the kind of water we were travelling on, and
+the amount of time we spent on the shore. We had just run our twelfth
 rapid, and were turning the boats around, when we saw a man back from
 the shore working over a pile of boxes which he had covered with a
-piece of canvas. A boat was tied to the water's edge. We called to
-him, and he answered, but did not seem nearly as much interested in
-seeing companion travellers as we were, and proceeded with his work.
-We landed, and, to save time, introduced ourselves, as there seemed to
-be a certain aloofness in his manner. He gave the name of Smith--with
-some hesitation, we thought.
-
-Smith was about medium size, but looked tough and wiry; he had a sandy
-complexion, with light hair and mustache. He had lost one eye, the
-other was that light gray colour that is usually associated with
+piece of canvas. A boat was tied to the water’s edge. We called to
+him, and he answered, but did not seem nearly as much interested
+in seeing companion travellers as we were, and proceeded with his
+work. We landed, and, to save time, introduced ourselves, as there
+seemed to be a certain aloofness in his manner. He gave the name of
+Smith--with some hesitation, we thought.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  LOOKING WEST INTO CATARACT CANYON.]
+
+  [Illustration: CHARLES SMITH AND HIS BOAT.]
+
+Smith was about medium size, but looked tough and wiry; he had a
+sandy complexion, with light hair and mustache. He had lost one eye,
+the other was that light gray colour that is usually associated with
 indomitable nerve. He had a shrewd, rather humorous expression, and
 gave one the impression of being very capable. Dressed in a neat
 whipcord suit, wearing light shoes and a carefully tied tie, recently
@@ -3553,23 +3646,24 @@ place. We should judge he was a little over forty years old; but
 whether prospector, trapper, or explorer it was hard to say. Some
 coyote skins, drying on a rock, would give one the impression that he
 was the second, with a touch of the latter thrown in. These coyotes
-were responsible for the tracks we had seen, and had mistaken for dog
-tracks, but of all the canyons we had seen he was in the last place
-where we would expect to find a trapper. The coyotes evidently reached
-the river gorge through side canyons on the left, where we had seen
-signs of ancient trails. Apart from that there was no sign of animal
-life. With the last of the wooded canyons, the signs of beaver had
-disappeared. There were a few otter tracks, but they are wily fellows,
-and are seldom trapped. While there are laws against the trapping of
-beaver, they seldom prevent the trappers from taking them when they
-get the chance; they are only a little more wary of strangers; the
-thought occurred to us that this trapper may have secured some beaver
-in the open sections above, and mistrusted us for this reason.
-
-It was too late to go any farther that evening, so we camped a hundred
-yards below him, close to where our boats were pulled out. At this
-place there was a long, wide flat in the canyon, with plenty of
-driftwood, so we saw no reason why we should quarrel with our
+were responsible for the tracks we had seen, and had mistaken for
+dog tracks, but of all the canyons we had seen he was in the last
+place where we would expect to find a trapper. The coyotes evidently
+reached the river gorge through side canyons on the left, where we
+had seen signs of ancient trails. Apart from that there was no sign
+of animal life. With the last of the wooded canyons, the signs of
+beaver had disappeared. There were a few otter tracks, but they are
+wily fellows, and are seldom trapped. While there are laws against
+the trapping of beaver, they seldom prevent the trappers from taking
+them when they get the chance; they are only a little more wary of
+strangers; the thought occurred to us that this trapper may have
+secured some beaver in the open sections above, and mistrusted us for
+this reason.
+
+It was too late to go any farther that evening, so we camped a
+hundred yards below him, close to where our boats were pulled out.
+At this place there was a long, wide flat in the canyon, with plenty
+of driftwood, so we saw no reason why we should quarrel with our
 neighbour. Smith accepted our invitation to supper, stating that he
 had just eaten before we arrived, but enjoyed some pineapple which we
 had kept for some special occasion, and which was served for dessert.
@@ -3581,79 +3675,84 @@ along. He knew there was a canyon, and some rapids below, but had no
 idea they were so bad, and thought they were about ended. No one had
 warned him, for he had told no one what he intended doing. He had
 bought an old water-logged boat that had been built by Galloway, and
-seeing the uselessness of trying to run the rapids with it, worked it
-down along the shores by holding it with a light chain. Once he had
-been pulled into the river, twice the boat had been upset, and he was
-just about dried out from the last spill when we arrived. He had heard
-us shooting at the ducks, so rather expected company--this in brief
-was his amazing story.
-
-We were surprised when we examined the boat closely. It had been well
-made, but was so old and rotten that it seemed ready to fall to
-pieces. In places, the nail heads had pulled through the boards. It
-was entirely open on top--a great risk in such water. His boxes were
-tied in to prevent loss. These boxes were now piled on the shore, with
-a large canvas thrown over them. This canvas, fastened at the top and
-sloping to the ground, served him for a tent; his bed was underneath.
-A pair of high-topped boots, placed bottom up over two sticks, stuck
-in the sand beside the camp-fire, explained the different tracks we
-had seen above.
+seeing the uselessness of trying to run the rapids with it, worked
+it down along the shores by holding it with a light chain. Once he
+had been pulled into the river, twice the boat had been upset, and he
+was just about dried out from the last spill when we arrived. He had
+heard us shooting at the ducks, so rather expected company--this in
+brief was his amazing story.
+
+We were surprised when we examined the boat closely. It had been
+well made, but was so old and rotten that it seemed ready to fall
+to pieces. In places, the nail heads had pulled through the boards.
+It was entirely open on top--a great risk in such water. His boxes
+were tied in to prevent loss. These boxes were now piled on the
+shore, with a large canvas thrown over them. This canvas, fastened
+at the top and sloping to the ground, served him for a tent; his bed
+was underneath. A pair of high-topped boots, placed bottom up over
+two sticks, stuck in the sand beside the camp-fire, explained the
+different tracks we had seen above.
 
 Smith evidently was not much alarmed over his situation. About the
 only thing that seemed to bother him was the fact that his smoking
 tobacco had been wet several times. That evening we got out our
-guide-book--Dellenbaugh's "A Canyon Voyage"--and tried to give him an
-idea of what was ahead. The walls ahead grew higher, and closer
-together; sometimes there was a shore on one side, sometimes on the
-other, at one or two places there was no shore on either side, and the
-rapids continued to get worse,--so we gathered from Dellenbaugh's
-experience. Above this point there were several places where one could
-climb out,--we had even seen signs of ancient trails in two side
-canyons,--below here few such places existed.
-
-Smith listened to all this attentively, then smiled and said "I guess
-there will be some way through." After a short visit he returned to
+guide-book--Dellenbaugh’s “A Canyon Voyage”--and tried to give
+him an idea of what was ahead. The walls ahead grew higher, and
+closer together; sometimes there was a shore on one side, sometimes
+on the other, at one or two places there was no shore on either
+side, and the rapids continued to get worse,--so we gathered from
+Dellenbaugh’s experience. Above this point there were several places
+where one could climb out,--we had even seen signs of ancient trails
+in two side canyons,--below here few such places existed.
+
+Smith listened to all this attentively, then smiled and said “I guess
+there will be some way through.” After a short visit he returned to
 his camp. We noticed that he slept on his gun,--to keep it dry, no
 doubt, for it looked like rain.
 
 Morning found us very sorry that we had not erected our tent, for it
 rained nearly all night, but when once in our beds it was a question
-which was preferable; to get out in the rain and put up our tent, or
-remain in our comfortable beds. We remained where we were. As we
-prepared to leave, we offered Smith a chance to accompany us through
-Cataract Canyon, telling him that we would help him with his boat
-until the quiet water of Glen Canyon was reached. He declined the
-opportunity, saying that he would rather travel slowly and do what
-trapping he could. He welcomed a chance to take a ride on the
-_Defiance_, however. We took him over two small rapids, and gave him
-an insight into our method of avoiding the dangers. He was very
-enthusiastic about it. On reaching the next rapid we all concluded it
-would be very unwise to carry any passengers, for it was violent
+which was preferable; to get out in the rain and put up our tent,
+or remain in our comfortable beds. We remained where we were. As
+we prepared to leave, we offered Smith a chance to accompany us
+through Cataract Canyon, telling him that we would help him with his
+boat until the quiet water of Glen Canyon was reached. He declined
+the opportunity, saying that he would rather travel slowly and do
+what trapping he could. He welcomed a chance to take a ride on the
+_Defiance_, however. We took him over two small rapids, and gave
+him an insight into our method of avoiding the dangers. He was very
+enthusiastic about it. On reaching the next rapid we all concluded
+it would be very unwise to carry any passengers, for it was violent
 water, so he got out on the shore.
 
+  [Illustration: A NARROW CHANNEL AT RAPID NO. 22.]
+
+  [Illustration: DEVELOPING TESTS.]
+
 Smith had once seen some moving pictures of Japanese shooting rapids,
 but he said they were nothing compared to these, remarking that a
-bronco could hardly buck any harder. The next rapid was just as bad,
-Rapid No. 14 for Cataract Canyon, and Smith helped us secure a motion
-picture. Then he prepared to return to his camp. Just before leaving
-he explained rather apologetically, that ranchers, or others, were
-usually very unfriendly to a stranger coming into their section of the
-country. He had heard us shooting at the ducks and he imagined we
-belonged in some of the side canyons or on the top. This explained his
-puzzling attitude at our first meeting. If he had any beaver skins in
-his pack this would make him even more suspicious of strangers. We
-wished him nothing but the best of luck, and were good friends when we
-parted. His decision to make the trip alone, poorly equipped as he
-was, seemed like suicide to us. He promised to write to us if he got
-out, and with a final wave of the hand we left him on the shore.
+bronco could hardly buck any harder. The next rapid was just as
+bad, Rapid No. 14 for Cataract Canyon, and Smith helped us secure
+a motion picture. Then he prepared to return to his camp. Just
+before leaving he explained rather apologetically, that ranchers, or
+others, were usually very unfriendly to a stranger coming into their
+section of the country. He had heard us shooting at the ducks and he
+imagined we belonged in some of the side canyons or on the top. This
+explained his puzzling attitude at our first meeting. If he had any
+beaver skins in his pack this would make him even more suspicious of
+strangers. We wished him nothing but the best of luck, and were good
+friends when we parted. His decision to make the trip alone, poorly
+equipped as he was, seemed like suicide to us. He promised to write
+to us if he got out, and with a final wave of the hand we left him on
+the shore.
 
 The rapid just passed was possibly the scene of the disaster
 discovered by the Stone expedition. They found a clumsy boat close to
 the shore, jammed in a mass of rocks, smashed and abandoned. There
-were tracks of three people in the sand, one track being a boy's. A
+were tracks of three people in the sand, one track being a boy’s. A
 coat was left on the shore. The tracks disappeared up a box canyon.
 Mr. Stone corresponded with the only settlements in all that region,
-few in number, and far distant; but nothing was ever heard of them,
+few in number, and far distant; but nothing was ever heard of them.
 Two other parties have left Green River, Utah, within a year of this
 find and disappeared in like manner. This seemed to be the usual
 result of these attempts. In nearly every case they have started in
@@ -3663,64 +3762,69 @@ others, properly equipped, have gone through.
 
 What a day of excitement that was! We always thought we needed a
 certain amount of thrills to make life sufficiently interesting for
-us. In a few hours' time, in the central portion of Cataract Canyon,
-we experienced nearly enough thrills to last us a lifetime. In one or
-two of the upper canyons we thought we were running rapids. Now we
-were learning what rapids really were. No sooner were we through one
-than another presented itself. At each of them we climbed along the
-boulder-strewn shores--the lower slopes growing steeper, the walls
-above towering higher--clear to the end of the rapid. Looking upstream
-we could pick out the submerged rocks hidden in the muddy water, and
-looking like an innocent wave from above. Twice we had picked out
-channels in sharp drops, after carefully observing their actions and
-deciding they were free from obstructions, when suddenly the waves
-would part for an instant and disclose a hidden rock--in one case as
-sharp as a hound's tooth--sure disaster if we ever struck it. As soon
-as we had decided on a channel we would lose no time in getting back
-to our boats and running it for we could feel our courage oozing from
-our finger tips with each second's delay. Time and again we got
-through just by a scratch. Success bred confidence; I distinctly
-remember feeling that water alone would not upset the boat; that it
-would take a collision with a rock to do it. And each time we got
-through. Twice I almost had reason to reverse my impression of the
-power of water. First the stern rose up in front of me, as if squaring
-off at the tops of the cliffs, then descended, until it seemed to be
-trying to plumb the depths of the river. The waves, rolling over me,
-almost knocked me out of the boat, I lost my hold on the oars and
-grabbed the sides of the boat; then, regaining the oars, I finished
-the run by pulling with the bow headed downstream, for the boat had
-"swapped ends" in the interval, and was heavy with about three barrels
-of water in the cockpit. I bailed out with a grocery box, kept under
-the seat for that purpose. It had been growing quite cold, and Emery's
-indisposition--or what was really acute indigestion--had weakened him
-for the past two days, but he pluckily declined to stop. I was soaked
-with my last immersion and chilled with the wind, so concluded there
-was no use having him go through the same experience and I ran his
-boat while he made a picture. We were both ready to camp then, but
-there was no suitable place and we had to push on to the next rapid.
-On looking it over we almost gave up our intention of running it. It
-was about a fourth of a mile long; a mass of submerged rocks extended
-entirely across the river; the entire rapid seemed impossible. We
-finally concluded it might be run by shooting up, stern first, on a
-sloping rock near the shore, then return as the current recoiled and
-ran back, dividing on either side of the rock. The only clear channel
-was one about twelve feet wide, between this rock and the shore. A
-projecting shore above prevented a direct entrance to this channel.
+us. In a few hours’ time, in the central portion of Cataract Canyon,
+we experienced nearly enough thrills to last us a lifetime. In one
+or two of the upper canyons we thought we were running rapids. Now
+we were learning what rapids really were. No sooner were we through
+one than another presented itself. At each of them we climbed along
+the boulder-strewn shores--the lower slopes growing steeper, the
+walls above towering higher--clear to the end of the rapid. Looking
+upstream we could pick out the submerged rocks hidden in the muddy
+water, and looking like an innocent wave from above. Twice we had
+picked out channels in sharp drops, after carefully observing their
+actions and deciding they were free from obstructions, when suddenly
+the waves would part for an instant and disclose a hidden rock--in
+one case as sharp as a hound’s tooth--sure disaster if we ever
+struck it. As soon as we had decided on a channel we would lose
+no time in getting back to our boats and running it, for we could
+feel our courage oozing from our finger tips with each second’s
+delay. Time and again we got through just by a scratch. Success bred
+confidence; I distinctly remember feeling that water alone would
+not upset the boat; that it would take a collision with a rock to
+do it. And each time we got through. Twice I almost had reason to
+reverse my impression of the power of water. First the stern rose
+up in front of me, as if squaring off at the tops of the cliffs,
+then descended, until it seemed to be trying to plumb the depths of
+the river. The waves, rolling over me, almost knocked me out of the
+boat, I lost my hold on the oars and grabbed the sides of the boat;
+then, regaining the oars, I finished the run by pulling with the bow
+headed downstream, for the boat had “swapped ends” in the interval,
+and was heavy with about three barrels of water in the cockpit. I
+bailed out with a grocery box, kept under the seat for that purpose.
+It had been growing quite cold, and Emery’s indisposition--or what
+was really acute indigestion--had weakened him for the past two days,
+but he pluckily declined to stop. I was soaked with my last immersion
+and chilled with the wind, so concluded there was no use having him
+go through the same experience and I ran his boat while he made a
+picture. We were both ready to camp then, but there was no suitable
+place and we had to push on to the next rapid. On looking it over we
+almost gave up our intention of running it. It was about a fourth of
+a mile long; a mass of submerged rocks extended entirely across the
+river; the entire rapid seemed impossible. We finally concluded it
+might be run by shooting up, stern first, on a sloping rock near the
+shore, then return as the current recoiled and ran back, dividing on
+either side of the rock. The only clear channel was one about twelve
+feet wide, between this rock and the shore. A projecting shore above
+prevented a direct entrance to this channel.
 
 We threw logs in and watched their action. In each case they paused
 when within five or six feet of the top of the slope, then returned
 with the current, whirled back to the side and shot through close to
 the shore. We planned to go through as close together as possible.
-Emery was ready first, I held back in a protecting pool, waiting for
-him to get out of the way. He got his position, facing stern
+Emery was ready first, I held back in a protecting pool, waiting
+for him to get out of the way. He got his position, facing stern
 downstream, gave the slightest shove forward, and the released boat
 whizzed down for fifty feet and ran up on the rock. She paused a
 moment, as the water prepared to return. He gave two quick pulls,
-shooting back again, slightly to the right, until he struck the narrow
-channel, then reversed his course and went through stern first exactly
-as we had planned it. The square stern, buoyed up by the air-chamber,
-lifted the boat out of the resulting wave as he struck the bottom of
-the descent. This much of the rapid had only taken a few seconds.
+shooting back again, slightly to the right, until he struck the
+narrow channel, then reversed his course and went through stern first
+exactly as we had planned it. The square stern, buoyed up by the
+air-chamber, lifted the boat out of the resulting wave as he struck
+the bottom of the descent. This much of the rapid had only taken a
+few seconds.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  RAPID NO. 22 IN CATARACT CANYON.]
 
 I followed at once, but was not so fortunate. The _Defiance_ was
 carried to the left side, where some water dropped over the side of
@@ -3729,14 +3833,14 @@ meanwhile, of the boat and myself being toppled off the side of the
 rock, into the boulders and waves below. My rowing had no effect
 whatever, but the boat was grabbed by the returning wave and shot, as
 if from a catapult, back and around to the right, through the sloping
-narrow channel,--my returning course describing a half circle. Instead
-of rising, the pointed bow cut down into the waves until the water was
-on my shoulders. Emery turned his head for an instant to see what
-success I was having, and his boat was thrown on to a rock close to
-the shore. I passed him and landed, just before going into the next
-rapid. I then went back and helped him off the rock, and he continued
-his course over the leaping waves. He broke a rowlock before he
-landed, and had to use the substitute we had hung beside it.
+narrow channel,--my returning course describing a half circle.
+Instead of rising, the pointed bow cut down into the waves until the
+water was on my shoulders. Emery turned his head for an instant to
+see what success I was having, and his boat was thrown on to a rock
+close to the shore. I passed him and landed, just before going into
+the next rapid. I then went back and helped him off the rock, and
+he continued his course over the leaping waves. He broke a rowlock
+before he landed, and had to use the substitute we had hung beside it.
 
 We found a good spot for a camp just above the next rapid. Our tent
 was stretched in front of a large boulder. A large pile of driftwood
@@ -3748,62 +3852,60 @@ wet clothes steaming on the line.
 
 CHAPTER XIV
 
-
-
 A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS
 
-An hour or so after making our camp, we began to doubt the wisdom of
-our choice of a location, for a downpour of rain threatened to send a
-stream of water under the tent. The stream was easily turned aside,
-while a door and numerous boards found in the drift pile, made a very
-good floor for the tent and lifted our sleeping bags off the wet sand.
-We had little trouble in this section to find sufficient driftwood for
-fires. The pile at this camp was enormous, and had evidently been
-gathering for years. Some of it, we could be sure, was recent, for a
-large pumpkin was found deposited in the drift pile twenty-five feet
-above the low-water stage on which we were travelling. This pumpkin,
-of course, could only have come down on the flood that had preceded
-us.
+An hour or so after making our camp, we began to doubt the wisdom
+of our choice of a location, for a downpour of rain threatened to
+send a stream of water under the tent. The stream was easily turned
+aside, while a door and numerous boards found in the drift pile, made
+a very good floor for the tent and lifted our sleeping bags off the
+wet sand. We had little trouble in this section to find sufficient
+driftwood for fires. The pile at this camp was enormous, and had
+evidently been gathering for years. Some of it, we could be sure,
+was recent, for a large pumpkin was found deposited in the drift
+pile twenty-five feet above the low-water stage on which we were
+travelling. This pumpkin, of course, could only have come down on the
+flood that had preceded us.
 
 What a mixture of curios some of those drift piles were, and what a
 great stretch of country they represented! The rivers, unsatisfied
-with washing away the fertile soil of the upper country, had levied a
-greedy toll on the homes along their banks, as well. Almost everything
-that would float, belonging to a home, could be found in some of them.
-There were pieces of furniture and toilet articles, children's toys
-and harness, several smashed boats had been seen, and bloated cattle
-as well. A short distance above this camp we had found two cans of
-white paint, carefully placed on top of a big rock above the
-high-water mark, by some previous voyager.[5] The boats were beginning
-to show the effect of hard usage, so we concluded to take the paint
-along. At another point, this same day, we found a corked bottle
-containing a faded note, undated, requesting the finder to write to a
-certain lady in Delta, Colorado. A note in my journal, beneath a
-record of this find, reads: "Aha! A romance at last!" Judging by the
-appearance of the note it might have been thrown in many years before.
-Delta, we knew, was on the Gunnison River, a tributary of the Grand
-River. The bottle must have travelled over two hundred miles to reach
-this spot.
+with washing away the fertile soil of the upper country, had levied
+a greedy toll on the homes along their banks, as well. Almost
+everything that would float, belonging to a home, could be found in
+some of them. There were pieces of furniture and toilet articles,
+children’s toys and harness, several smashed boats had been seen,
+and bloated cattle as well. A short distance above this camp we had
+found two cans of white paint, carefully placed on top of a big rock
+above the high-water mark, by some previous voyager.[5] The boats
+were beginning to show the effect of hard usage, so we concluded to
+take the paint along. At another point, this same day, we found a
+corked bottle containing a faded note, undated, requesting the finder
+to write to a certain lady in Delta, Colorado. A note in my journal,
+beneath a record of this find, reads: “Aha! A romance at last!”
+Judging by the appearance of the note it might have been thrown in
+many years before. Delta, we knew, was on the Gunnison River, a
+tributary of the Grand River. The bottle must have travelled over two
+hundred miles to reach this spot.
 
 A letter which I sent out later brought a prompt answer, with the
 information that this bottle and four others with similar notes were
-set adrift by the writer and four of her schoolmates, nearly two years
-before. An agreement was made that the one first receiving an answer
-was to treat the others to a dinner. Our find was the second, so this
-young lady was a guest instead of the host.
+set adrift by the writer and four of her schoolmates, nearly two
+years before. An agreement was made that the one first receiving an
+answer was to treat the others to a dinner. Our find was the second,
+so this young lady was a guest instead of the host.
 
 Emery took but little interest in our camp arrangements this evening,
 and went to bed as soon as it was possible for him to do so. He said
 little, but he was very weak, and I could tell from his drawn face
-that he was suffering, and knew that it was nothing but nervous energy
-that kept him at his work--that, and a promise which he had made to
-build a fire, within a stated time now less than two weeks away, in
-Bright Angel Creek Canyon, nearly three hundred miles below this camp,
-a signal to his wife and baby that he would be home the next day. I
-was worried about his condition and I feared a fever or pneumonia. For
-two or three days he had not been himself. It was one thing to battle
-with the river when well and strong; it would be decidedly different
-if one of us became seriously ill.
+that he was suffering, and knew that it was nothing but nervous
+energy that kept him at his work--that, and a promise which he had
+made to build a fire, within a stated time now less than two weeks
+away, in Bright Angel Creek Canyon, nearly three hundred miles below
+this camp, a signal to his wife and baby that he would be home the
+next day. I was worried about his condition and I feared a fever or
+pneumonia. For two or three days he had not been himself. It was one
+thing to battle with the river when well and strong; it would be
+decidedly different if one of us became seriously ill.
 
 For the first time in all our experiences together, where
 determination and skill seemed necessary to success, I had taken the
@@ -3811,82 +3913,86 @@ lead during the past two days, feeling that my greater weight and
 strength, perhaps, would help me pull out of danger where he might
 fail. In two or three rapids I felt sure he did not have the strength
 to pull away from certain places that would smash the boats. After
-running the _Defiance_ through these rapids I suggested to him that;
+running the _Defiance_ through these rapids I suggested to him that
 he would take a picture while I brought the _Edith_ down. He would
 stay near the _Defiance_, ready to aid in case of emergency. After
-being once through a rapid I found it quite a simple matter to run the
-second boat, and the knowledge that he would save me in case of an
-upset greatly lessened any danger that might have existed. He was too
-nervous to sleep, and asked me to take a last look at the boats before
-going to bed. They were pulled well up on the shore and securely tied,
-I found, so that it would take a flood to tear them loose. The rain,
-which had stopped for a while, began again as I rolled into the
-blankets; the fire, fed with great cottonwood logs, threw ghostly
-shadows on the cliffs which towered above us, and sputtered in the
-rain but refused to be drowned; while the roar of rapids, Nos. 22 and
-23 combined, thundered and reverberated from wall to wall, and finally
-lulled us to sleep.
+being once through a rapid I found it quite a simple matter to run
+the second boat, and the knowledge that he would save me in case
+of an upset greatly lessened any danger that might have existed. He
+was too nervous to sleep, and asked me to take a last look at the
+boats before going to bed. They were pulled well up on the shore and
+securely tied, I found, so that it would take a flood to tear them
+loose. The rain, which had stopped for a while, began again as I
+rolled into the blankets; the fire, fed with great cottonwood logs,
+threw ghostly shadows on the cliffs which towered above us, and
+sputtered in the rain but refused to be drowned; while the roar of
+rapids, Nos. 22 and 23 combined, thundered and reverberated from wall
+to wall, and finally lulled us to sleep.
+
+  [Illustration: THE “EDITH” IN A CATARACT.]
+
+  [Illustration: A SEVENTY-FIVE FOOT DROP IN THREE-FOURTHS OF A MILE.]
 
 The rain continued all night, but the weather cleared in the morning.
-Emery felt much the same as he had the day before, so we kept the same
-camp that day. We took some pictures, and made a few test
+Emery felt much the same as he had the day before, so we kept the
+same camp that day. We took some pictures, and made a few test
 developments, hanging the dark-room, or tent, inside the other tent
 for want of a better place to tie to.
 
 Sunday, October the 29th, we remained at the same place, and by
-evening were both greatly benefited by the rest. On Monday morning we
-packed up again, leaving only the moving-picture camera out, and
-pictured each other, alternately, as the boats made the Plunge over
+evening were both greatly benefited by the rest. On Monday morning
+we packed up again, leaving only the moving-picture camera out, and
+pictured each other, alternately, as the boats made the plunge over
 the steep descent in rapid No. 23. Both boats disappeared from sight
-on two or three occasions in this rapid and emerged nearly filled with
-water.
+on two or three occasions in this rapid and emerged nearly filled
+with water.
 
 The section just passed is credited with the greatest descent on the
-rivers, a fall of 75 feet in 3/4 of a mile. This includes the three
+rivers, a fall of 75 feet in ¾ of a mile. This includes the three
 rapids: Nos. 21, 22, and 23.
 
-Proceeding on our way the canyon narrowed, going up almost sheer to a
-height of 2500 feet or over. Segregated spires, with castle-like tops,
-stood out from the upper walls. The rapids, or cataracts, compared
-well with those passed above, connected in some instances by
-swift-rushing water instead of the quiet pools which were usually
+Proceeding on our way the canyon narrowed, going up almost sheer to
+a height of 2500 feet or over. Segregated spires, with castle-like
+tops, stood out from the upper walls. The rapids, or cataracts,
+compared well with those passed above, connected in some instances
+by swift-rushing water instead of the quiet pools which were usually
 found between the rapids. We ran ten rapids this day, but several of
 these which were counted as one were a series of two or three rapids,
 which might be one in high water. All had a shore on one side or the
 other, but caution was imperative when crossing in the swift water
 between the rapids. A mishap here meant destruction. We figured that
-we had travelled about ten miles for this day's run.
+we had travelled about ten miles for this day’s run.
 
-The menacing walls continued to go higher with the next day's travel,
+The menacing walls continued to go higher with the next day’s travel,
 until they reached a height of 2700 feet. The left wall was so sheer
-that it almost seemed to overhang. The little vegetation which we had
-found on the lower slope gradually disappeared as the walls grew
+that it almost seemed to overhang. The little vegetation which we
+had found on the lower slope gradually disappeared as the walls grew
 steeper, but a few scattered shrubs, sage-brush, and an occasional
 juniper grew on the rocky sides, or in one or two side canyons which
 entered from the south. These side canyons had the appearance of
-running back for considerable distances, but we did not explore any of
-them and could tell very little about them from the river.
+running back for considerable distances, but we did not explore any
+of them and could tell very little about them from the river.
 
 After our noon lunch this day, in order to keep our minds from
 dwelling too much on the rather depressing surroundings, we proposed
 having a little sport. On two or three occasions we had made motion
 pictures from the deck of the boats as we rowed in the quiet water;
-here we proposed taking a picture from the boats as we went over the
-rapids. The two boats were fastened stern to stern, so that the rowing
-would be done from the first boat. My brother sat on the bow behind
-with the motion-picture camera in front of him, holding it down with
-his chin, his legs clinging to the sides of the boat, with his left
-hand clutching at the hatch cover, and with his right hand free to
-turn the crank. In this way we passed over two small rapids. After
-that one experience we never tried it in a large rapid. As Smith had
-said a few days before the boat bucked like a broncho, and Emery had a
-great deal of difficulty to stay with the boat, to say nothing of
-taking a picture. Once or twice he was nearly unseated but pluckily
-hung on and kept turning away at the crank when it looked as if he and
-the camera would be dumped into the river.
+here we proposed taking a picture from the boats as we went over
+the rapids. The two boats were fastened stern to stern, so that the
+rowing would be done from the first boat. My brother sat on the bow
+behind with the motion-picture camera in front of him, holding it
+down with his chin, his legs clinging to the sides of the boat, with
+his left hand clutching at the hatch cover, and with his right hand
+free to turn the crank. In this way we passed over two small rapids.
+After that one experience we never tried it in a large rapid. As
+Smith had said a few days before the boat bucked like a broncho, and
+Emery had a great deal of difficulty to stay with the boat, to say
+nothing of taking a picture. Once or twice he was nearly unseated but
+pluckily hung on and kept turning away at the crank when it looked as
+if he and the camera would be dumped into the river.
 
 At one point in the lower end of Cataract Canyon we saw the name and
-date A.G. Turner, '07. Below this, close to the end of the canyon,
+date A. G. Turner, ’07. Below this, close to the end of the canyon,
 were some ruins of cliff dwellings, and a ladder made by white men,
 placed against the walls below the ruins.
 
@@ -3894,39 +4000,42 @@ On reaching a very deep, narrow canyon entering from the south,
 locally known as Dark Canyon, we knew that we were nearing the end of
 the rapids in Cataract Canyon. Dark Canyon extends a great distance
 back into the country, heading in the mountains we had seen to the
-south, when we climbed out at the junction of the Green and the Grand.
-Pine cones and other growths entirely foreign to the growth of the
-desert region were found near its mouth. A flood had recently filled
-the bottom of this narrow canyon to a depth of several feet, but the
-water had settled down again and left a little stream of clear water
-running through the boulders. The rapid at the end of this canyon was
-one of the worst of the entire series, and had been the scene of more
-than one fatality, we had been told. It had a very difficult approach
-and swung against the right wall, then the water was turned abruptly
-to the left by a great pile of fallen boulders. The cresting waves
-looked more like breakers of the ocean than anything we had seen on
-the river.
+south, when we climbed out at the junction of the Green and the
+Grand. Pine cones and other growths entirely foreign to the growth
+of the desert region were found near its mouth. A flood had recently
+filled the bottom of this narrow canyon to a depth of several feet,
+but the water had settled down again and left a little stream of
+clear water running through the boulders. The rapid at the end of
+this canyon was one of the worst of the entire series, and had been
+the scene of more than one fatality, we had been told. It had a very
+difficult approach and swung against the right wall, then the water
+was turned abruptly to the left by a great pile of fallen boulders.
+The cresting waves looked more like breakers of the ocean than
+anything we had seen on the river.
 
 We each had a good scare as we ran this rapid. Emery was completely
 hidden from my view, he was nearly strangled and blinded by the waves
-for a few seconds while struggling in the maelstrom; the _Edith_ was
-dropped directly on top of a rock in the middle of this rapid, then
-lifted on the next wave. I also had a thrilling experience but avoided
-the rock. In the lower part of the rapid a rowlock pulled apart; and
-to prevent the boat from turning sideways in the rapid, I threw up my
-knee, holding the oar against it for a lever until I was in quieter
-water, and could get the other rowlock in position.
+for a few seconds while struggling in the maelstrom; the _Edith_
+was dropped directly on top of a rock in the middle of this rapid,
+then lifted on the next wave. I also had a thrilling experience but
+avoided the rock. In the lower part of the rapid a rowlock pulled
+apart; and to prevent the boat from turning sideways in the rapid, I
+threw up my knee, holding the oar against it for a lever until I was
+in quieter water, and could get the other rowlock in position.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  CAMP IN THE HEART OF CATARACT CANYON.]
 
 Separated from my brother in this instance, I had an opportunity to
 see the man and water conflict, with a perspective much as it would
-have appeared to a spectator happening on the scene. I was out of the
-heat of the battle. The excitement and indifference to danger that
-comes with a hand-to-hand grapple was gone. I heard the roar of the
-rapid; a roar so often heard that we forgot it was there. I saw the
-gloom of the great gorge, and the towering, sinister shafts of rock,
-weakened with cracks, waiting for the moment that would send them
-crashing to the bottom. I saw the mad, wild water hurled at the
-curving wall. Jagged rocks, like the bared fangs of some
+have appeared to a spectator happening on the scene. I was out of
+the heat of the battle. The excitement and indifference to danger
+that comes with a hand-to-hand grapple was gone. I heard the roar
+of the rapid; a roar so often heard that we forgot it was there. I
+saw the gloom of the great gorge, and the towering, sinister shafts
+of rock, weakened with cracks, waiting for the moment that would
+send them crashing to the bottom. I saw the mad, wild water hurled
+at the curving wall. Jagged rocks, like the bared fangs of some
 dream-monster, appeared now and then in the leaping, tumbling waves.
 Then down toward the turmoil--dwarfed to nothingness by the magnitude
 of the walls--sped the tiny shell-like boat, running smoothly like a
@@ -3937,11 +4046,12 @@ there, now covered with a ton of water, now topping a ten-foot wave.
 Like a skilled boxer--quick of eye, and ready to seize any temporary
 advantage--the oarsman shot in his oars for two quick strokes, to
 straighten the boat with the current or dodge a threatening boulder;
-then covered by lifting his oars and ducking his head as a brown flood
-rolled over him. Time and again the manoeuvre was repeated: now here
-now there. One would think the chances were about one to a hundred
-that he would get through. But by some sort of a system, undoubtedly
-aided, many times, by good luck, the man and his boat won to land.
+then covered by lifting his oars and ducking his head as a brown
+flood rolled over him. Time and again the manœuvre was repeated:
+now here, now there. One would think the chances were about one to
+a hundred that he would get through. But by some sort of a system,
+undoubtedly aided, many times, by good luck, the man and his boat won
+to land.
 
 After running a small rapid, we came to another, in the centre of
 which was an island,--the last rapid in Cataract Canyon. While not as
@@ -3949,13 +4059,13 @@ bad as the one at Dark Canyon it was rather difficult, and at this
 point we found no shore on either side. The south side was rendered
 impassable by great boulders, much higher than the river level, which
 were scattered through the channel. The opposite channel began much
-like the rapid at Dark Canyon, sweeping under the wall until turned by
-a bend and many fallen rocks below the end of the island, then crossed
-with a line of cresting waves to the opposite side, where it was
-joined by the other stream, and the left wall was swept clean in like
-manner. We ran it by letting our boats drop into the stream, but
-pulled away from the wall and kept close to the island, then when its
-end was reached crossed the ridge of waves and pulled for the
+like the rapid at Dark Canyon, sweeping under the wall until turned
+by a bend and many fallen rocks below the end of the island, then
+crossed with a line of cresting waves to the opposite side, where it
+was joined by the other stream, and the left wall was swept clean in
+like manner. We ran it by letting our boats drop into the stream, but
+pulled away from the wall and kept close to the island, then when
+its end was reached crossed the ridge of waves and pulled for the
 right-hand shore. In such rapids as this we often found the line of
 waves in the swift-rushing centre to be several feet higher than the
 water along the shore.
@@ -3967,72 +4077,77 @@ reaching a height of sixty or seventy feet above the water at the
 lower end, while a descent could be made to the river some distance
 below here. It would be possible for him to climb over this with his
 provisions, but the idea of taking his boat up there was entirely out
-of the question, and, poorly equipped as he was, an attempt to run it
-would surely end in disaster. The breaking of an oar, the loss of a
-rowlock, or the slightest knock of his rotten boat against a rock, and
-Smith's fate would be similar to those others whose bones lay buried
-in the sands.
+of the question, and, poorly equipped as he was, an attempt to run
+it would surely end in disaster. The breaking of an oar, the loss of
+a rowlock, or the slightest knock of his rotten boat against a rock,
+and Smith’s fate would be similar to those others whose bones lay
+buried in the sands.
 
 In the next four miles we had no more rapids, but had some fine
 travelling on a very swift river. It was getting dusk, but we pulled
 away, for just ahead of us was the end of Cataract Canyon. We camped
-by a large side canyon on the left named Mille Crag Bend, with a great
-number of jagged pinnacles gathered in a group at the top of the
-walls, which had dropped down to a height of about 1300 feet. We felt
-just a little proud of our achievement, and believed we had
+by a large side canyon on the left named Mille Crag Bend, with a
+great number of jagged pinnacles gathered in a group at the top of
+the walls, which had dropped down to a height of about 1300 feet.
+We felt just a little proud of our achievement, and believed we had
 established a record for Cataract Canyon, having run all rapids in
-four days' travelling, and come through in safety.
+four days’ travelling, and come through in safety.
 
 We had one rapid to run the next morning at the beginning of Narrow
 Canyon, the only rapid in this nine-mile long canyon. The walls here
 at the beginning were twelve or thirteen hundred feet high, and
-tapered to the end, where they rise about four hundred feet above the
-Dirty Devil River. Narrow Canyon contains the longest straight stretch
-of river which we remembered having seen. When five miles from its
-mouth we could look through and see the snow-capped peak of Mt.
-Ellsworth beyond. This peak is one of the five that composes the Henry
-Mountains, which lay to the north of the river.
-
-Three hours' rowing brought us to the end. We paused a few minutes to
-make a picture or two of the Dirty Devil River,--or the Frémont River
-as it is now recorded on the maps. This stream, flowing from the
-north, was the exact opposite of the Bright Angel Creek, that
-beautiful stream we knew so well, two hundred and fifty miles below
-this point. The Dirty Devil was muddy and alkaline, while warm springs
-containing sulphur and other minerals added to its unpalatable taste.
-After tasting it we could well understand the feeling of the Jack
-Sumner, whose remark, after a similar trial, suggested its name to
-Major Powell.
-
-A short distance below this we saw a tent, and found it occupied by an
-old-timer named Kimball. Among other things he told us that he had a
-partner, named Turner, who had made the trip through the canyons
+tapered to the end, where they rise about four hundred feet above
+the Dirty Devil River. Narrow Canyon contains the longest straight
+stretch of river which we remembered having seen. When five miles
+from its mouth we could look through and see the snow-capped peak of
+Mt. Ellsworth beyond. This peak is one of the five that composes the
+Henry Mountains, which lay to the north of the river.
+
+Three hours’ rowing brought us to the end. We paused a few minutes
+to make a picture or two of the Dirty Devil River,--or the Frémont
+River as it is now recorded on the maps. This stream, flowing from
+the north, was the exact opposite of the Bright Angel Creek, that
+beautiful stream we knew so well, two hundred and fifty miles
+below this point. The Dirty Devil was muddy and alkaline, while
+warm springs containing sulphur and other minerals added to its
+unpalatable taste. After tasting it we could well understand the
+feeling of the Jack Sumner, whose remark, after a similar trial,
+suggested its name to Major Powell.
+
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  LOWER CATARACT CANYON. BOATS TANDEM.]
+
+  [Illustration: BEGINNING OF A NATURAL BRIDGE. GLEN CANYON.]
+
+A short distance below this we saw a tent, and found it occupied by
+an old-timer named Kimball. Among other things he told us that he had
+a partner, named Turner, who had made the trip through the canyons
 above, and arrived at this point in safety. This was the man whose
 name we had seen on the walls in Cataract Canyon. Less than two miles
 more brought us to the Hite ranch, and post-office. John Hite gave us
 a cordial reception. He had known of our coming from the newspapers;
 besides, he had some mail for us. We spent the balance of the day in
-writing letters, and listening to Hite's interesting experiences of
-his many years of residence in this secluded spot. Hite's home had
+writing letters, and listening to Hite’s interesting experiences of
+his many years of residence in this secluded spot. Hite’s home had
 been a haven for the sole survivor of two expeditions which had met
 with disaster in Cataract. In each case they were on the verge of
 starvation. Hite kept a record of all known parties who had attempted
 the passage through the canyons above. Less than half of these
-parties, excepting Galloway's several successful trips, succeeded in
-getting through Cataract Canyon without wrecking boats or losing
+parties, excepting Galloway’s several successful trips, succeeded
+in getting through Cataract Canyon without wrecking boats or losing
 lives.
 
 After passing the Frémont River the walls on the right or north side
 dropped down, leaving low, barren sandstone hills rolling away from
 the river, with a fringe of willows and shrubs beside the water, and
-with the usual sage-brush, prickly pear, cactus and bunch-grass on the
-higher ground. We had seen one broken-down log cabin, but this ranch
-was the only extensive piece of ground that was cultivated. Judging by
-the size of his stacks of alfalfa, Hite had evidently had a good
-season. The banks of the south side of the river were about two
-hundred feet high, composed of a conglomerate mass of clay and gravel.
-This spot has long been a ferry crossing, known far and wide as Dandy
-Crossing, the only outlet across the river for the towns of
+with the usual sage-brush, prickly pear, cactus and bunch-grass on
+the higher ground. We had seen one broken-down log cabin, but this
+ranch was the only extensive piece of ground that was cultivated.
+Judging by the size of his stacks of alfalfa, Hite had evidently had
+a good season. The banks of the south side of the river were about
+two hundred feet high, composed of a conglomerate mass of clay and
+gravel. This spot has long been a ferry crossing, known far and wide
+as Dandy Crossing, the only outlet across the river for the towns of
 southeastern Utah, along the San Juan River. The entire 150 miles of
 Glen Canyon had once been the scene of extensive placer operations.
 The boom finally died, a few claims only proving profitable.
@@ -4042,17 +4157,17 @@ who had gone down the river in 1908. Loper never finished, as his
 boat--a steel boat, by the way--was punctured in a rapid above Dark
 Canyon but was soon repaired. His cameras and plates being lost, he
 sent from Hite out for new ones. His companions--Chas. Russell, and
-E.R. Monette--were to wait for him at Lee's Ferry, after having
+E. R. Monnette--were to wait for him at Lee’s Ferry, after having
 prospected through Glen Canyon. Some mistake was made about the
 delivery of the cameras and, as Hite post-office only had weekly
 communication with the railroad, a month elapsed before he finally
-secured them. Lee's Ferry had been discontinued as a post-office at
-that time, and, although he tried to get a letter in to them, it was
-never delivered. His disappointment can be imagined better than
-described, when he reached Lee's Ferry and found his companions had
+secured them. Lee’s Ferry had been discontinued as a post-office at
+that time, and, although he tried to get a letter in to them, it
+was never delivered. His disappointment can be imagined better than
+described, when he reached Lee’s Ferry and found his companions had
 left just a few days previous. They naturally thought if he were
-coming at all he would have been there long before that, and they gave
-him up, not knowing the cause of the delay. They left a letter,
+coming at all he would have been there long before that, and they
+gave him up, not knowing the cause of the delay. They left a letter,
 however, saying they would only go to the Bright Angel Trail, and the
 trip could be completed together on the following year.
 
@@ -4065,76 +4180,78 @@ the Hite ranch.
 
 CHAPTER XV
 
-
-
 PLACER GOLD
 
-We passed Loper's claim after resuming our journey the next day. His
-workings were a one-man proposition and very ingenious. We found a
-tunnel in the gravel a hundred feet above the river, and some distance
-back from the river bank. A track of light rails ran from the river
-bank to these workings; the gravel and sand was loaded into a car, and
-hauled or pushed to the bank, then dumped into a chute, which sent it
-down to the river's edge.
+
+We passed Loper’s claim after resuming our journey the next day. His
+workings were a one-man proposition and very ingenious. We found
+a tunnel in the gravel a hundred feet above the river, and some
+distance back from the river bank. A track of light rails ran from
+the river bank to these workings; the gravel and sand was loaded into
+a car, and hauled or pushed to the bank, then dumped into a chute,
+which sent it down to the river’s edge.
 
 Loper was not at his work however, neither did we find him at his
 ranch, a mile down the river. He had a neat little place, with fruit
 trees and a garden, a horse or two, and some poultry. After resuming
-our rowing, when about a mile down the river, some one called to us
-from the shore, and Loper himself came running down to meet us. John
-Hite had requested us to stop and see his brother, Cass Hite, who
-owned a ranch and placer working nearly opposite where Loper had
-halted us; so Loper crossed with us, as he was anxious to know of our
-passage through the canyons.
-
-We found, in Cass Hite, an interesting "old-timer," one who had
+our rowing, when about a mile down the river, some one called to
+us from the shore, and Loper himself came running down to meet us.
+John Hite had requested us to stop and see his brother, Cass Hite,
+who owned a ranch and placer working nearly opposite where Loper had
+halted us; so Loper crossed with us, as he was anxious to know of
+our passage through the canyons.
+
+We found, in Cass Hite, an interesting “old-timer,” one who had
 followed the crowd of miners and pioneers, in the West, since the
 discovery of gold on the coast. He was the discoverer of the White
 Canyon Natural Bridges, of Southern Utah, located between this point
 and the San Juan River, and had been the first to open the ferry at
 Dandy Crossings. Hite had prospected Navajo Mountain, southwest of
-this point, in the early sixties, about the time of the Navajos'
+this point, in the early sixties, about the time of the Navajos’
 trouble with the United States army, under the leadership of Kit
 Carson, who dislodged them from their strongholds in the mountains
-after many others had failed. Hite's life was saved on more than one
-occasion by warnings from a friendly chief, or head man of the Western
-Navajos, known as Hoskaninni, who regarded him as a brother, and
-bestowed on him the name, Hosteen pes'laki, meaning "Silver man." He
-is still known by this name, and refers to his pretty ranch as Tick a
-Bo, a Ute word for "friendly." Hite proudly quoted a poem written by
-Cy Warman about the theme of the Indian's regard for his white friend.
-Warman had followed the crowd in to this spot at the time of the boom,
-looking for local colour--human local colour, not the glitter in the
-sands. It was at John Hite's home where Warman had composed the one
-time popular song, "Sweet Marie." It would be safe to say that he
-brought his inspiration with him, for this was decidedly a man's
-country. We were told that it had only been visited by one woman in
-the past twelve years. Hite insisted on our remaining until the
-following morning, and we concluded that the rest would do us good. He
-loaded us up with watermelons, and with raisins, which he was curing
-at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a shaded arbour,
-listening to his reminiscences, and munching at the raisins.
-
-That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon expedition. He
-felt a little bitter about some newspaper reports that had been
+after many others had failed. Hite’s life was saved on more than
+one occasion by warnings from a friendly chief, or head man of the
+Western Navajos, known as Hoskaninni, who regarded him as a brother,
+and bestowed on him the name, Hosteen pes´laki, meaning “Silver man.”
+He is still known by this name, and refers to his pretty ranch as
+Tick a Bo, a Ute word for “friendly.” Hite proudly quoted a poem
+written by Cy Warman about the theme of the Indian’s regard for his
+white friend. Warman had followed the crowd in to this spot at the
+time of the boom, looking for local colour--human local colour, not
+the glitter in the sands. It was at John Hite’s home where Warman
+had composed the one time popular song, “Sweet Marie.” It would be
+safe to say that he brought his inspiration with him, for this was
+decidedly a man’s country. We were told that it had only been visited
+by one woman in the past twelve years. Hite insisted on our remaining
+until the following morning, and we concluded that the rest would do
+us good. He loaded us up with watermelons, and with raisins, which he
+was curing at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a shaded
+arbour, listening to his reminiscences, and munching at the raisins.
+
+That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon expedition.
+He felt a little bitter about some newspaper reports that had been
 published concerning this expedition, these reports giving the
 impression that his nerve had failed him, and that for this reason he
 had not continued on the journey. We mollified his feelings somewhat,
 when we told him that his companions were not responsible for these
-reports; but rather, that short telegraphic reports, sent out from the
-Grand Canyon, had been misconstrued by the papers; and that this
+reports; but rather, that short telegraphic reports, sent out from
+the Grand Canyon, had been misconstrued by the papers; and that this
 accounted for the stories which had appeared. His companions had
 remained at the Grand Canyon for two days following their arrival at
 Bright Angel Trail. They gave Loper credit, to our certain knowledge,
-of being the only one of the party who knew how to handle the boats in
-rough water when they began the trip, and had stated that he ran all
-the boats through certain rapids until they caught the knack. They
-could not know of his reasons for the delay, and at that time had no
-knowledge of his arrival at Lee's Ferry, after they had gone.
+of being the only one of the party who knew how to handle the boats
+in rough water when they began the trip, and had stated that he ran
+all the boats through certain rapids until they caught the knack.
+They could not know of his reasons for the delay, and at that time
+had no knowledge of his arrival at Lee’s Ferry, after they had gone.
 Naturally they were very much puzzled over his non-appearance.
 
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  PICTOGRAPHS IN GLEN CANYON.]
+
 It got quite cold that night, and we were glad to have shelter of
-Hite's hospitable roof. In our trip down the river to this point we
+Hite’s hospitable roof. In our trip down the river to this point we
 had seemed to keep even with the first cold weather. In all places
 where it was open, we would usually find a little ice accompanied by
 frost in the mornings, or if no ice had frozen the grass would be wet
@@ -4142,294 +4259,311 @@ with dew. In the canyons there was little or no ice, and the air was
 quite dry. Naturally we preferred the canyons if we had a choice of
 camps.
 
-Loper looked as though he would like to accompany us as we pulled away
-the next morning, after having landed him on the south side of the
-stream. We, at least, had full confidence in his nerve to tackle the
-lower Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon. The five
-scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to the north-northwest
-of us, rugged and snow-capped, supreme in their majesty above this
-desolate region.
+Loper looked as though he would like to accompany us as we pulled
+away the next morning, after having landed him on the south side
+of the stream. We, at least, had full confidence in his nerve to
+tackle the lower Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon.
+The five scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to the
+north-northwest of us, rugged and snow-capped, supreme in their
+majesty above this desolate region.
 
 Signs of an ancient Indian race were plentiful in this section. There
 were several small cliff dwellings, walled up in ledges in the rocks,
 a hundred feet or so above a low flat which banked the river. At
 another place there were hundreds of carvings on a similar wall which
 overhung a little. Drawings of mountain-sheep were plentiful; there
-was one representing a human figure with a bow and arrow, and with a
-sheep standing on the arrow--their way of telling that he got the
+was one representing a human figure with a bow and arrow, and with
+a sheep standing on the arrow--their way of telling that he got the
 sheep, no doubt. There were masked figures engaged in a dance, not
 unlike some of the Hopi dances of to-day, as they picture them. There
 were geometrical figures, and designs of many varieties. A small rock
 building half covered with sand and the accumulations of many years
-stood at the base of the cliff; and quantities of broken pottery were
-scattered about the ruin. Farther down the river a pathway was worn
-into the sandstone where countless bare and moccasined feet had
-toiled, and climbed over the sloping wall to the mesa above. The ruins
-in this section were not extensive, like those found in the tributary
-canyons of the San Juan River, for instance, not a very great distance
-from here. Possibly this people stopped here as they travelled back
-and forth, trading with their cousins to the north; or the dwellings
-may have been built by the scattered members of the tribe, when their
-strongholds were assailed by the more warlike tribes that crowded in
-on them from all sides.
+stood at the base of the cliff; and quantities of broken pottery
+were scattered about the ruin. Farther down the river a pathway was
+worn into the sandstone where countless bare and moccasined feet had
+toiled, and climbed over the sloping wall to the mesa above. The
+ruins in this section were not extensive, like those found in the
+tributary canyons of the San Juan River, for instance, not a very
+great distance from here. Possibly this people stopped here as they
+travelled back and forth, trading with their cousins to the north;
+or the dwellings may have been built by the scattered members of
+the tribe, when their strongholds were assailed by the more warlike
+tribes that crowded in on them from all sides.
 
 What a story these cliffs could tell! What a romance they could
 narrate of various tribes, as distinct from each other as the nations
 of Europe, crowding each other; and at the last of this inoffensive
 race, coming from the far south, it may be; driven from pillar to
 post, making their last stand in this desert land; to perish of
-pestilence, or to be almost exterminated by the blood-thirsty tribes
-that surrounded them--then again, when the tide changed, and a new
-type of invader travelled from the east, pushing ever to the west,
-conquering all before them! But like the sphinx, the cliffs are silent
-and voiceless as the hillocks and sand-dunes along the Nile, that
-other desert stream, with a history no more ancient and momentous than
-this.
+pestilence, or to be almost exterminated by the bloodthirsty tribes
+that surrounded them--then again, when the tide changed, and a
+new type of invader travelled from the east, pushing ever to the
+west, conquering all before them! But like the sphinx, the cliffs
+are silent and voiceless as the hillocks and sand-dunes along the
+Nile, that other desert stream, with a history no more ancient and
+momentous than this.
 
 That night we camped opposite the ruins of a dredge, sunk in the low
 water at the edge of the river. This dredge had once represented the
 outlay of a great deal of money. It is conceded by nearly all experts
 that the sands of these rivers contain gold, but it is of such a fine
-grain--what is known as flour gold--and the expense of saving it is so
-great, that it has not paid when operated on such a large scale. A few
-placers in Glen Canyon have paid individual operators, some of these
-claims being in gravel deposits from six hundred to eight hundred feet
-above the present level of the river.
+grain--what is known as flour gold--and the expense of saving it is
+so great, that it has not paid when operated on such a large scale.
+A few placers in Glen Canyon have paid individual operators, some
+of these claims being in gravel deposits from six hundred to eight
+hundred feet above the present level of the river.
 
 On the following day we again entered deep canyon; sheer for several
-hundred feet, creamy white above, with a dark red colour in the lower
-sandstone walls. That afternoon we passed a small muddy stream flowing
-from the north, in a narrow, rock-walled canyon. This was the
-Escalante River, a stream rising far to the north, named for one of
-the Spanish priests who had travelled this country, both to the north
-and the south of this point, as early as the year 1776, about the time
-when the New England colonists were in the midst of their struggle
-with the mother country.
+hundred feet, creamy white above, with a dark red colour in the
+lower sandstone walls. That afternoon we passed a small muddy stream
+flowing from the north, in a narrow, rock-walled canyon. This was
+the Escalante River, a stream rising far to the north, named for one
+of the Spanish priests who had travelled this country, both to the
+north and the south of this point, as early as the year 1776, about
+the time when the New England colonists were in the midst of their
+struggle with the mother country.
 
 Just below the Escalante River, the canyon turned almost directly
 south, continuing in this general direction for several miles. A
 glimpse or two was had of the top of a tree-covered snow-capped peak
-directly ahead of us, or a little to the southwest. This could be none
-other than Navajo Mountain, a peak we could see from the Grand Canyon,
-and had often talked of climbing, but debated if we could spare the
-time, now that we were close to it.
+directly ahead of us, or a little to the southwest. This could be
+none other than Navajo Mountain, a peak we could see from the Grand
+Canyon, and had often talked of climbing, but debated if we could
+spare the time, now that we were close to it.
+
+  [Illustration: CLIFF RUINS NEAR THE SAN JUAN RIVER.]
+
+  [Illustration: RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE, LOOKING SOUTH.]
 
 In all this run through Glen Canyon we had a good current, but only
-one place resembling a rapid. Here, below the Escalante, it was very
-quiet, and hard pulling was necessary to make any headway. We were
-anxious to reach the San Juan River that evening, but the days were
-growing short, and we were still many miles away when it began to grow
-dusk; so we kept a lookout for a suitable camp. The same conditions
-that had bothered us on one or two previous occasions were found here;
-slippery, muddy banks, and quicksand, together with an absence of
-firewood. We had learned before this to expect these conditions where
-the water was not swift. The slower stream had a chance to deposit its
-silt, and if the high water had been very quiet, we could expect to
-find it soft, or boggy. In the canyons containing swift water and
-rapids we seldom found mud, but found a firm sand, instead. Here in
-Glen Canyon we had plenty of mud, for the river had been falling the
-last few days. Time and again we inspected seemingly favourable
-places, only to be disappointed. The willows and dense shrubbery came
-down close to the river; the mud was black, deep, and sticky; all
-driftwood had gone out on the last flood. Meanwhile a glorious full
-moon had risen, spreading a soft, weird light over the canyon walls
-and the river; so that we now had a light much better than the dusk of
-half an hour previous, our course being almost due south. Finally,
-becoming discouraged, we decided to pull for the San Juan River,
-feeling sure that we would find a sand-bar there. It was late when we
-reached it, and instead of a sand-bar we found a delta of bottomless
-mud. We had drifted past the point where the rivers joined, before
-noticing that the stream turned directly to the west, with canyon
-walls two or three hundred feet high, and no moonlight entered there.
-Instead, it was black as a dungeon. From down in that darkness there
-came a muffled roar, reverberating against the walls, and sounding
-decidedly like a rapid. There was not a minute to lose. We pulled, and
-pulled hard--for the stream was now quite swift close to the right
-shore, and a sheer bank of earth about ten feet high made it difficult
-to land. Jumping into the mud at the edge of the water, we tied the
-boats to some bushes, then tore down the bank and climbed out on a
-dry, sandy point of land. At the end or sharp turn of the sheer wall
-we found a fair camp, with driftwood enough for that night. Emery,
-weak from his former illness and the long day's run, went to bed as
-soon as we had eaten a light supper. I looked after the cooking that
-evening, making some baking-powder bread,--otherwise known as a
-flapjack,--along with other arrangements for the next day; but I fear
-my efforts as a cook always resulted rather poorly.
+one place resembling a rapid. Here, below the Escalante, it was
+very quiet, and hard pulling was necessary to make any headway. We
+were anxious to reach the San Juan River that evening, but the days
+were growing short, and we were still many miles away when it began
+to grow dusk; so we kept a lookout for a suitable camp. The same
+conditions that had bothered us on one or two previous occasions
+were found here; slippery, muddy banks, and quicksand, together with
+an absence of firewood. We had learned before this to expect these
+conditions where the water was not swift. The slower stream had a
+chance to deposit its silt, and if the high water had been very
+quiet, we could expect to find it soft, or boggy. In the canyons
+containing swift water and rapids we seldom found mud, but found a
+firm sand, instead. Here in Glen Canyon we had plenty of mud,
+for the river had been falling the last few days. Time and again
+we inspected seemingly favourable places, only to be disappointed.
+The willows and dense shrubbery came down close to the river; the
+mud was black, deep, and sticky; all driftwood had gone out on the
+last flood. Meanwhile a glorious full moon had risen, spreading a
+soft, weird light over the canyon walls and the river; so that we
+now had a light much better than the dusk of half an hour previous,
+our course being almost due south. Finally, becoming discouraged, we
+decided to pull for the San Juan River, feeling sure that we would
+find a sand-bar there. It was late when we reached it, and instead of
+a sand-bar we found a delta of bottomless mud. We had drifted past
+the point where the rivers joined, before noticing that the stream
+turned directly to the west, with canyon walls two or three hundred
+feet high, and no moonlight entered there. Instead, it was black as
+a dungeon. From down in that darkness there came a muffled roar,
+reverberating against the walls, and sounding decidedly like a rapid.
+There was not a minute to lose. We pulled, and pulled hard--for the
+stream was now quite swift close to the right shore, and a sheer bank
+of earth about ten feet high made it difficult to land. Jumping into
+the mud at the edge of the water, we tied the boats to some bushes,
+then tore down the bank and climbed out on a dry, sandy point of
+land. At the end or sharp turn of the sheer wall we found a fair
+camp, with driftwood enough for that night. Emery, weak from his
+former illness and the long day’s run, went to bed as soon as we had
+eaten a light supper. I looked after the cooking that evening, making
+some baking-powder bread,--otherwise known as a flapjack,--along with
+other arrangements for the next day; but I fear my efforts as a cook
+always resulted rather poorly.
 
 We had breakfast at an early hour the next morning and were ready for
 the boats at 7.15, the earliest start to our record. Our rapid of the
 night before proved to be a false alarm, being nothing more than the
-breaking of swift water as it swept the banks of rocks at the turn. It
-was quite different from what we had pictured in our minds.
+breaking of swift water as it swept the banks of rocks at the turn.
+It was quite different from what we had pictured in our minds.
 
 We had long looked forward to this day. Navajo Mountain, with bare,
-jagged sides and tree-covered dome, was located just a few miles below
-this camp. It was a sandstone mountain peak, towering 7000 feet above
-the river, the steep slope beginning some five or six miles back from
-the stream. The base on which it rested was of sandstone, rounded and
-gullied into curious forms, a warm red and orange colour
-predominating. The north side, facing the river, was steep of slope,
-covered with the fragments of crumbled cliffs and with soft
+jagged sides and tree-covered dome, was located just a few miles
+below this camp. It was a sandstone mountain peak, towering 7000 feet
+above the river, the steep slope beginning some five or six miles
+back from the stream. The base on which it rested was of sandstone,
+rounded and gullied into curious forms, a warm red and orange colour
+predominating. The north side, facing the river, was steep of
+slope, covered with the fragments of crumbled cliffs and with soft
 cream-tinted pinnacles rising from its slope. The south side, we had
-reason, to believe, was tree-covered from top to bottom; the north
-side held only a few scattered cedar piñon We had often seen the hazy
-blue dome from the Grand Canyon, one hundred and twenty miles away,
-and while it was fifty miles farther by the river, we felt as if we
-were entered on the home stretch; as if we were in a country with
-which we were somewhat familiar.
-
-The Colorado and the San Juan rivers form the northern boundary of the
-Navajo Indian Reservation, comprising a tract of land as large as many
-Eastern states, extending over a hundred miles, both east and west
-from this point. Embodied in this reservation, and directly opposite
-our camp, was a small section of rugged land set aside for some Utes,
-who had friendly dealings, and who had intermarried with the Navajo.
-But if we expected to find the Navajo, or Utes on the shore, ready to
-greet us, we were doomed to disappointment.
+reason to believe, was tree-covered from top to bottom; the north
+side held only a few scattered cedar and piñon. We had often seen the
+hazy blue dome from the Grand Canyon, one hundred and twenty miles
+away, and while it was fifty miles farther by the river, we felt as
+if we were entered on the home stretch; as if we were in a country
+with which we were somewhat familiar.
+
+The Colorado and the San Juan rivers form the northern boundary of
+the Navajo Indian Reservation, comprising a tract of land as large
+as many Eastern states, extending over a hundred miles, both east
+and west from this point. Embodied in this reservation, and directly
+opposite our camp, was a small section of rugged land set aside for
+some Utes, who had friendly dealings, and who had intermarried with
+the Navajo. But if we expected to find the Navajo, or Utes on the
+shore, ready to greet us, we were doomed to disappointment.
 
 We explored a few side canyons this morning, hoping to find a spot
-where some of Major Powell's party--particularly those men who were
-afterwards killed by the Indians--had chiselled their names, which
-record we were told was to be found near the San Juan, but on which
-side we were not sure. While in one of these canyons, or what was
-really nothing more than a crooked overhanging slit in the rocks,
-containing a small stream, Emery found himself in some soft quicksand,
-plunged instantly above his knees, and sinking rapidly. He would have
-had a difficult time in getting out of this quicksand without help,
-for a smooth, rock wall was on one side, the other bank of the stream
-was sheer above him for a few feet, and there was nothing solid which
-he could reach. We had seen a great deal of quicksand before this, but
-nothing of this treacherous nature. Usually we could walk quickly over
-these sands without any danger of being held in them, or if
-caught--while lifting on a boat for instance--had no difficulty in
-getting out. When once out of this canyon we gave up our search for
-the carved record.
+where some of Major Powell’s party--particularly those men who
+were afterwards killed by the Indians--had chiselled their names,
+which record we were told was to be found near the San Juan, but
+on which side we were not sure. While in one of these canyons, or
+what was really nothing more than a crooked overhanging slit in the
+rocks, containing a small stream, Emery found himself in some soft
+quicksand, plunged instantly above his knees, and sinking rapidly.
+He would have had a difficult time in getting out of this quicksand
+without help, for a smooth, rock wall was on one side, the other
+bank of the stream was sheer above him for a few feet, and there
+was nothing solid which he could reach. We had seen a great deal
+of quicksand before this, but nothing of this treacherous nature.
+Usually we could walk quickly over these sands without any danger
+of being held in them, or if caught--while lifting on a boat for
+instance--had no difficulty in getting out. When once out of this
+canyon we gave up our search for the carved record.
 
 But it was not the hope of shortening our homeward run, or the
 prospect of meeting Indians on the shores, or of finding historical
-records, even, that caused us to make this early start. It was the
-knowledge that the wonderful Rainbow Natural Bridge, recently
-discovered, and only visited by three parties of whites, lay hidden in
-one of the side canyons that ran from the north slope of Navajo
+records, even, that caused us to make this early start. It was
+the knowledge that the wonderful Rainbow Natural Bridge, recently
+discovered, and only visited by three parties of whites, lay hidden
+in one of the side canyons that ran from the north slope of Navajo
 Mountain. No one had gone into it from the river, but we were told it
 could be done. We hoped to find this bridge.
 
-The current was swift, and we travelled fast, in spite of a stiff wind
-which blew up the stream, getting a very good view of the mountain
-from the river a few miles below our camp, and another view of the
-extreme top, a short distance below this place, not over six miles
-from the San Juan. We had directions describing the canyon in which
-the bridge was located, our informant surmising that it was thirty
-miles below the San Juan. We thought it must be less than that, for
-the river was very direct at this place, and a person travelling over
-the extremely rough country which surrounded this side of the mountain
-slope would naturally have to travel much farther, so began to look
-for it about twelve miles below camp. But mile after mile went by
-without any sign of the landmarks that would tell us we were at the
-"Bridge Canyon." Then the river, which had circled the northern side
-of the peak, turned directly away from it, and we knew that we had
-missed the bridge. At no point on the trip had we met with a
-disappointment to equal that; even the loss of our moving-picture
-film, after our spill in Lodore, was small when compared with it.
-
-On looking back over the lay of the land, we felt sure that the bridge
-was at one of the two places, where we had seen the top of the
-mountain from the river. To go back against the current would take at
-least three days. Our provisions were limited in quantity and would
-not permit it; the canyon had deepened, and a second bench of sheer
-cliffs rose above the plateau, making it impossible to climb out: so
-we concluded to make the best of it, and pulled down the stream,
-trying to put as many miles as possible between ourselves and our
-great disappointment. This afternoon we passed from Utah into Arizona.
-For the remainder of the trip we would have Arizona on one side of the
-river at least. We had much the same difficulty this evening as we had
-the night before in finding a camp. Judging by the evidence along the
-shore, the high water which came down the San Juan had been a torrent,
-much greater than the flood on the Colorado and its upper tributaries.
+  [Illustration:                           _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE BETWEEN THE COLORADO RIVER AND NAVAJO
+  MOUNTAIN. HEIGHT THREE HUNDRED AND EIGHT FEET. SPAN TWO HUNDRED AND
+  SEVENTY FEET. NOTE FIGURE ON TOP. PHOTO BY KOLB BROTHERS, SEPTEMBER,
+  1913.]
+
+The current was swift, and we travelled fast, in spite of a stiff
+wind which blew up the stream, getting a very good view of the
+mountain from the river a few miles below our camp, and another
+view of the extreme top, a short distance below this place, not
+over six miles from the San Juan. We had directions describing the
+canyon in which the bridge was located, our informant surmising
+that it was thirty miles below the San Juan. We thought it must be
+less than that, for the river was very direct at this place, and a
+person travelling over the extremely rough country which surrounded
+this side of the mountain slope would naturally have to travel much
+farther, so began to look for it about twelve miles below camp. But
+mile after mile went by without any sign of the landmarks that would
+tell us we were at the “Bridge Canyon.” Then the river, which had
+circled the northern side of the peak, turned directly away from it,
+and we knew that we had missed the bridge. At no point on the trip
+had we met with a disappointment to equal that; even the loss of
+our moving-picture film, after our spill in Lodore, was small when
+compared with it.
+
+On looking back over the lay of the land, we felt sure that the
+bridge was at one of the two places, where we had seen the top of
+the mountain from the river. To go back against the current would
+take at least three days. Our provisions were limited in quantity and
+would not permit it; the canyon had deepened, and a second bench of
+sheer cliffs rose above the plateau, making it impossible to climb
+out: so we concluded to make the best of it, and pulled down the
+stream, trying to put as many miles as possible between ourselves and
+our great disappointment. This afternoon we passed from Utah into
+Arizona. For the remainder of the trip we would have Arizona on one
+side of the river at least. We had much the same difficulty this
+evening as we had the night before in finding a camp. Judging by the
+evidence along the shore, the high water which came down the San Juan
+had been a torrent, much greater than the flood on the Colorado and
+its upper tributaries.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVI
 
-
-
 A WARNING
 
+
 We camped that night at the Ute Ford, or the Crossing of the Fathers;
 a noted landmark of bygone days, when Escalante (in 1776) and others
 later followed the inter-tribal trails across these unfriendly lands.
 Later marauding Navajo used this trail, crossing the canyon to the
 north side, raiding the scattered Mormon settlements, bringing their
-stolen horses, and even sheep, down this canyon trail. Then they drove
-them across on a frozen river, and escaped with them to their mountain
-fastness. The Mormons finally tired of these predatory visits, and
-shut off all further loss from that source by blasting off a great
-ledge at the north end of the trail. This ruined the trail beyond all
-hope of repair, and there is no travel at present over the old Ute
-Crossing. The fording of the river on horseback was effected by
-dropping down to the river through a narrow side canyon, and crossing
-to the centre on a shoal, then following a centre shoal down quite a
-distance, and completing the crossing at a low point on the opposite
-side. This was only possible at the very lowest stage of water.
-
-The morning following our arrival here, we walked about a mile up the
-gravelly slope on the south side, to see if we could locate the pass
-by which the trail dropped down over these 3000-foot walls. The canyon
-had changed in appearance after leaving the mountain, and now we had a
-canyon; smaller, but not unlike the Grand Canyon in appearance, with
-an inner plateau, and a narrow canyon at the river, while the walls on
-top were several miles apart, and towering peaks or buttes rose from
-the plateau, reaching a height almost equal to the walls themselves.
-The upper walls were cream-tinted or white sandstone, the lower
-formation was a warm red sandstone. We could not discover the pass
-without a long walk to the base of the upper cliffs, so returned to
-the boats.
+stolen horses, and even sheep, down this canyon trail. Then they
+drove them across on a frozen river, and escaped with them to their
+mountain fastness. The Mormons finally tired of these predatory
+visits, and shut off all further loss from that source by blasting
+off a great ledge at the north end of the trail. This ruined the
+trail beyond all hope of repair, and there is no travel at present
+over the old Ute Crossing. The fording of the river on horseback was
+effected by dropping down to the river through a narrow side canyon,
+and crossing to the centre on a shoal, then following a centre shoal
+down quite a distance, and completing the crossing at a low point on
+the opposite side. This was only possible at the very lowest stage of
+water.
+
+The morning following our arrival here, we walked about a mile up
+the gravelly slope on the south side, to see if we could locate the
+pass by which the trail dropped down over these 3000-foot walls. The
+canyon had changed in appearance after leaving the mountain, and
+now we had a canyon; smaller, but not unlike the Grand Canyon in
+appearance, with an inner plateau, and a narrow canyon at the river,
+while the walls on top were several miles apart, and towering peaks
+or buttes rose from the plateau, reaching a height almost equal to
+the walls themselves. The upper walls were cream-tinted or white
+sandstone, the lower formation was a warm red sandstone. We could
+not discover the pass without a long walk to the base of the upper
+cliffs, so returned to the boats.
 
 About this time we heard shots, seeming to come from some point down
 the river, and on the north side. Later a dull hollow sound was heard
-like pounding on a great bass drum. We could not imagine what it was,
-but knew that it must be a great distance away. We had noticed
+like pounding on a great bass drum. We could not imagine what it
+was, but knew that it must be a great distance away. We had noticed
 instances before this, where these smooth, narrow canyon had a great
 magnifying effect on noises. In the section above the San Juan, where
 the upper walls overhung a little, a loud call would roll along for
 minutes before it finally died. A shot from a revolver sounded as if
-the cliff were falling.
-
-Our run this morning was delightful. The current was the best on which
-we had travelled. The channel swung from side to side, in great half
-circles, with most of the water thrown against the outside bank, or
-wall, with a five-or six-mile an hour current close to the wall. We
-took advantage of all this current, hugging the wall, with the stern
-almost touching, and with the bow pointed out so we would not run into
-the walls or scrape our oars. Then, when it seemed as if our necks
-were about to be permanently dislocated, from looking over one
+the cliffs were falling.
+
+  [Illustration: UPPER MARBLE CANYON.]
+
+  [Illustration: GLEN CANYON, NEAR NAVAJO MOUNTAIN.]
+
+Our run this morning was delightful. The current was the best on
+which we had travelled. The channel swung from side to side, in great
+half circles, with most of the water thrown against the outside bank,
+or wall, with a five-or six-mile an hour current close to the wall.
+We took advantage of all this current, hugging the wall, with the
+stern almost touching, and with the bow pointed out so we would not
+run into the walls or scrape our oars. Then, when it seemed as if our
+necks were about to be permanently dislocated, from looking over one
 shoulder, the river would reverse its curve, the channel would cross
 to the other side, and we would give that side of our necks a rest.
 Once in a great while I would bump a rock, and would look around
 sheepishly, to see if my brother had seen me do it. I usually found
 him with a big grin on his face, if he happened to be ahead of me.
 
-We rowed about twenty miles down the river before we learned what had
-caused the noises heard in the morning. On rounding a turn we saw the
-strange spectacle of fifteen or twenty men at work on the
-half-constructed hull of a flat-bottomed steamboat, over sixty feet in
-length. This boat was on the bank quite a distance above the water,
-with the perpendicular walls of a crooked side canyon rising above it.
-It was a strange sight, here in this out-of-the-way corner of the
-world. Some men with heavy sledges were under the boat, driving large
-spikes into the planking. This was the noise we had heard that
-morning.
-
-The blasting, we learned later, was at some coal mines, several miles
-up this little canyon, which bore the name of Warm Creek Canyon. A
-road led down through the canyon, making it possible to haul the
-lumber for the boat, clear to the river's edge. The nearest railroad
-was close to two hundred miles from this place, quite a haul
+We rowed about twenty miles down the river before we learned what
+had caused the noises heard in the morning. On rounding a turn we
+saw the strange spectacle of fifteen or twenty men at work on the
+half-constructed hull of a flat-bottomed steamboat, over sixty feet
+in length. This boat was on the bank quite a distance above the
+water, with the perpendicular walls of a crooked side canyon rising
+above it. It was a strange sight, here in this out-of-the-way corner
+of the world. Some men with heavy sledges were under the boat,
+driving large spikes into the planking. This was the noise we had
+heard that morning.
+
+The blasting, we learned later, was at some coal mines, several
+miles up this little canyon, which bore the name of Warm Creek
+Canyon. A road led down through the canyon, making it possible to
+haul the lumber for the boat, clear to the river’s edge. The nearest
+railroad was close to two hundred miles from this place, quite a haul
 considering the ruggedness of the country. The material for the boat
 had been shipped from San Francisco, all cut, ready to put together.
 The vessel was to be used to carry coal down the river, to a dredge
-that had recently been installed at Lee's Ferry.
+that had recently been installed at Lee’s Ferry.
 
 The dinner gong had just sounded when we landed, and we were taken
 along with the crowd. There were some old acquaintances in this group
@@ -4437,12 +4571,12 @@ of men, we found, from Flagstaff, Arizona. These men had received a
 Flagstaff paper which had published a short note we had sent from
 Green River, Utah. They had added a comment that no doubt this would
 be the last message we would have an opportunity to send out. Very
-cheering for Emery's wife, no doubt. Fortunately she shared our
-enthusiasm, and if she felt any apprehension her few letters failed to
-show it.
+cheering for Emery’s wife, no doubt. Fortunately she shared our
+enthusiasm, and if she felt any apprehension her few letters failed
+to show it.
 
 We resumed our rowing at once after dinner, for we wished to reach
-Lee's Ferry, twenty-five miles distant, that evening. We had a good
+Lee’s Ferry, twenty-five miles distant, that evening. We had a good
 current, and soon left our friends behind us. We pulled with a will,
 and mile after mile was covered in record time, for our heavy boats.
 
@@ -4457,278 +4591,293 @@ dikes of rock, and slides of brilliantly coloured shales, broken and
 tilted in every direction. Just below this, close to a ferry, we saw
 the dredge on the right side of the river. We were quite close to the
 dredge before we were seen. Some men paused at their work to watch us
-as we neared them, one man calling to those behind him, "There come
-the brothers!"
-
-A whistle blew announcing the end of their day's labour, and of ours
-as well, as it happened. There was some cheering and waving of hats.
-One who seemed to be the foreman asked us to tie up to a float which
-served as a landing for three motor boats, and a number of skiffs. A
-loudly beaten triangle of steel announced that the evening meal was
-ready at a stone building not far from the dredge. We were soon seated
-at a long table with a lot of others as hungry as we, partaking of a
-well-cooked and substantial meal. We made arrangements to take a few
-meals here, as we wished to overhaul our outfits before resuming our
-journey.
+as we neared them, one man calling to those behind him, “There come
+the brothers!”
+
+A whistle blew announcing the end of their day’s labour, and of
+ours as well, as it happened. There was some cheering and waving of
+hats. One who seemed to be the foreman asked us to tie up to a float
+which served as a landing for three motor boats, and a number of
+skiffs. A loudly beaten triangle of steel announced that the evening
+meal was ready at a stone building not far from the dredge. We were
+soon seated at a long table with a lot of others as hungry as we,
+partaking of a well-cooked and substantial meal. We made arrangements
+to take a few meals here, as we wished to overhaul our outfits before
+resuming our journey.
 
 The meal ended, we inquired for the post-office, and were directed to
 a ranch building across the Paria River, a small stream which entered
 from the north, not unlike the Frémont River in size and appearance.
 Picking our way in the darkness, on boulders and planks which served
 as a crossing, we soon reached the building, set back from the river
-in the centre of the ranch. A man named Johnson, with his family, had
-charge of the ranch and post-office as well. Mail is brought by
-carrier from the south, a cross-country trip of 160 miles, through the
-Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations.
-
-Johnson informed us that an old-time friend named Dave Rust had waited
-here three or four days, hoping to see us arrive, but business matters
-had forced him to leave just the day before. We were very sorry to
-have missed him. Rust lived in the little Mormon town of Kanab, Utah,
-eighty miles north of the Grand Canyon opposite our home. In addition
-to being a cattle man and rancher, he had superintended the
-construction of a cable crossing, or tramway, over the Colorado River,
-beside the mouth of Bright Angel Creek, not many miles from our home.
-He also maintains a cozy camp at this place, for the accommodation of
-tourists and hunting parties, which he conducts up Bright Angel Creek
-and into the Kaibab Forest. It was while returning from such a hunting
-trip that we first met Rust. Many are the trips we have taken with him
-since then, Emery, with his wife and the baby, even, making the
-"crossing" and the eighty-mile horseback ride to his home in Kanab,
-while I had continued on through to Salt Lake City. Rust had been the
-first to tell us of Galloway and his boating methods; and had given us
-a practical demonstration on the river. Naturally there was no one we
-would have been more pleased to see at that place, than Rust.
+in the centre of the ranch. A man named Johnson, with his family,
+had charge of the ranch and post-office as well. Mail is brought by
+carrier from the south, a cross-country trip of 160 miles, through
+the Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations.
+
+Johnson informed us that an old-time friend named Dave Rust had
+waited here three or four days, hoping to see us arrive, but business
+matters had forced him to leave just the day before. We were very
+sorry to have missed him. Rust lived in the little Mormon town
+of Kanab, Utah, eighty miles north of the Grand Canyon opposite
+our home. In addition to being a cattle man and rancher, he had
+superintended the construction of a cable crossing, or tramway, over
+the Colorado River, beside the mouth of Bright Angel Creek, not many
+miles from our home. He also maintains a cozy camp at this place,
+for the accommodation of tourists and hunting parties, which he
+conducts up Bright Angel Creek and into the Kaibab Forest. It was
+while returning from such a hunting trip that we first met Rust. Many
+are the trips we have taken with him since then, Emery, with his
+wife and the baby, even, making the “crossing” and the eighty-mile
+horseback ride to his home in Kanab, while I had continued on through
+to Salt Lake City. Rust had been the first to tell us of Galloway and
+his boating methods; and had given us a practical demonstration on
+the river. Naturally there was no one we would have been more pleased
+to see at that place, than Rust.
+
+  [Illustration: PLACER DREDGE AT LEE’S FERRY.]
 
 In our mail we found a letter from him, stating, among other things,
-that he had camped the night before on the plateau, a few hundred feet
-above a certain big rapid, well known through this section as the Soap
-Creek Rapid. This locality is credited with being the scene of the
-first fatality which overtook the Brown-Stanton expedition; Brown
-being upset and drowned in the next rapid which followed, after having
-portaged the Soap Creek Rapid. Rust wrote also that there was a shore
-along the rapid, so there would be no difficulty in making the
-portage; and concluded by saying that he had a very impressive dream
-about us that night, the second of its kind since we had started on
-our journey.
+that he had camped the night before on the plateau, a few hundred
+feet above a certain big rapid, well known through this section as
+the Soap Creek Rapid. This locality is credited with being the scene
+of the first fatality which overtook the Brown-Stanton expedition;
+Brown being upset and drowned in the next rapid which followed, after
+having portaged the Soap Creek Rapid. Rust wrote also that there was
+a shore along the rapid, so there would be no difficulty in making
+the portage; and concluded by saying that he had a very impressive
+dream about us that night, the second of its kind since we had
+started on our journey.
 
 We understood from this that he had certain misgivings about this
 rapid, and took his dream to be a sort of a warning. Rust should have
 known us better. With all the perversity of human nature that letter
-made me want to run that rapid if it were possible. Why run the rapid,
-and get a moving picture as it was being done. Then we could show Rust
-how well we had learned our lesson! So I thought as we returned to the
-buildings near the dredge, but said nothing of what was in my mind to
-Emery, making the mental reservation that I would see the rapid first
-and decide afterwards.
+made me want to run that rapid if it were possible. Why run the
+rapid, and get a moving picture as it was being done. Then we could
+show Rust how well we had learned our lesson! So I thought as we
+returned to the buildings near the dredge, but said nothing of what
+was in my mind to Emery, making the mental reservation that I would
+see the rapid first and decide afterwards.
 
 The foreman of the placer mines called us into his office that
 evening, and suggested that it might be a good plan to go over our
-boats thoroughly before we left, and offered us the privilege of using
-their workshop, with all its conveniences, for any needed repairs. He
-also let us have a room in one of the buildings for our photographic
-work.
+boats thoroughly before we left, and offered us the privilege of
+using their workshop, with all its conveniences, for any needed
+repairs. He also let us have a room in one of the buildings for our
+photographic work.
 
 This foreman mourned the loss of a friend who had recently been
-drowned at the ferry. It seemed that the floods which had preceded us,
-especially that part which came down the San Juan River, had been
-something tremendous, rising 45 feet at the ferry, where the river was
-400 feet wide; and rising much higher in the narrow portions of Glen
-Canyon. Great masses of driftwood had floated down, looking almost
-like a continuous raft. When the river had subsided somewhat, an
-attempt was made to cross with the ferry. The foreman and his friend,
-with two others, and a team of horses hitched to a wagon, were on the
-ferry. When in midstream it overturned in the swollen current. Three
-of the men escaped, the other man and the horses were drowned.
+drowned at the ferry. It seemed that the floods which had preceded
+us, especially that part which came down the San Juan River, had been
+something tremendous, rising 45 feet at the ferry, where the river
+was 400 feet wide; and rising much higher in the narrow portions of
+Glen Canyon. Great masses of driftwood had floated down, looking
+almost like a continuous raft. When the river had subsided somewhat,
+an attempt was made to cross with the ferry. The foreman and his
+friend, with two others, and a team of horses hitched to a wagon,
+were on the ferry. When in midstream, it overturned in the swollen
+current. Three of the men escaped, the other man and the horses were
+drowned.
 
 A careful search had been made for the body to a point a few miles
 down the river, then the canyon closed in and they could go no
 farther. The body was never recovered. It is seldom that the Colorado
-River gives up its dead. The heavy sands collect in the clothes, and a
-body sinks much quicker than in ordinary water. Any object lodged on
-the bottom is soon covered with a sand-bar. The foreman knew this, of
-course; yet he wished us to keep a lookout for the body, which might,
-by some chance, have caught on the shore, when the water receded. This
-was as little as any one would do, and we gave him our promise to keep
-a careful watch.
+River gives up its dead. The heavy sands collect in the clothes, and
+a body sinks much quicker than in ordinary water. Any object lodged
+on the bottom is soon covered with a sand-bar. The foreman knew this,
+of course; yet he wished us to keep a lookout for the body, which
+might, by some chance, have caught on the shore, when the water
+receded. This was as little as any one would do, and we gave him our
+promise to keep a careful watch.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVII
 
-
-
 A NIGHT OF THRILLS
 
-We declined the offer of a roof that night, preferring to sleep in the
-open here, for the evening was quite warm. We went to work the next
-morning when the whistle sounded at the dredge. Beyond caulking a few
-leaks in the boats, little was done with them. The tin receptacles
-holding our photographic plates and films were carefully coated with a
-covering of melted paraffine; for almost anything might happen, in the
-one hundred miles of rapid water that separated us from our home.
 
-Lee's Ferry was an interesting place, both for its old and its new
+We declined the offer of a roof that night, preferring to sleep
+in the open here, for the evening was quite warm. We went to work
+the next morning when the whistle sounded at the dredge. Beyond
+caulking a few leaks in the boats, little was done with them. The tin
+receptacles holding our photographic plates and films were carefully
+coated with a covering of melted paraffine; for almost anything might
+happen, in the one hundred miles of rapid water that separated us
+from our home.
+
+Lee’s Ferry was an interesting place, both for its old and its new
 associations. This had long been the home of John D. Lee, well known
-for the part he took in the Mountain Meadow Massacre, and for which he
-afterwards paid the death penalty. Here Lee had lived for many years,
-making few visits to the small settlements to the north, but on one of
-these visits he was captured. There were six or seven other buildings
-near the large stone building where we took our meals, so arranged
-that they made a short street, the upper row being built against a
-cliff of rock and shale, the other row being placed halfway between
-this row and the river. These buildings were all of rock, of which
-there was no lack, plastered with adobe, or mud. One, we were told,
-had been Lee's stronghold, it was a square building, with a few very
-small windows, and with loopholes in the sides. At the time of our
-visit it was occupied by two men; one, a young Englishman, recently
-arrived from South Africa--a remittance-man, in search of novelty--the
-other a grizzled forty-niner. Much could be written about this
-interesting group of men, and their alluring employment. There were
-some who had followed this work through all the camps of the West--to
-Colorado, to California, and to distant Alaska as well, they had
-journeyed; but it is doubtful if, in all their wanderings, they had
-seen any camp more strangely located than this, hemmed in with canyon
-walls. To us, their dredge and the steamboat up the river seemed as if
-they had been taken from the pages of some romance, or bit of fiction,
-and placed before us for our entertainment.
-
-There were other men as well, just as interesting m their way as the
-"old-timers," the sons of some of the owners of this
+for the part he took in the Mountain Meadow Massacre, and for which
+he afterwards paid the death penalty. Here Lee had lived for many
+years, making few visits to the small settlements to the north, but
+on one of these visits he was captured. There were six or seven other
+buildings near the large stone building where we took our meals, so
+arranged that they made a short street, the upper row being built
+against a cliff of rock and shale, the other row being placed
+halfway between this row and the river. These buildings were all of
+rock, of which there was no lack, plastered with adobe, or mud. One,
+we were told, had been Lee’s stronghold. It was a square building,
+with a few very small windows, and with loopholes in the sides.
+At the time of our visit it was occupied by two men; one, a young
+Englishman, recently arrived from South Africa--a remittance-man,
+in search of novelty--the other a grizzled forty-niner. Much could
+be written about this interesting group of men, and their alluring
+employment. There were some who had followed this work through all
+the camps of the West--to Colorado, to California, and to distant
+Alaska as well, they had journeyed; but it is doubtful if, in all
+their wanderings, they had seen any camp more strangely located
+than this, hemmed in with canyon walls. To us, their dredge and the
+steamboat up the river seemed as if they had been taken from the
+pages of some romance, or bit of fiction, and placed before us for
+our entertainment.
+
+There were other men as well, just as interesting in their way
+as the “old-timers,” the sons of some of the owners of this
 proposition,--clean-cut young fellows,--working side by side with the
 veterans, as enthusiastic as if on their college campus.
 
 One feature about the dredge interested us greatly. This was a tube,
-or sucker, held suspended by a derrick above a float, and operated by
-compressed air. The tube was dropped into the sand at the bottom of
+or sucker, held suspended by a derrick above a float, and operated
+by compressed air. This tube was dropped into the sand at the bottom of
 the river, and would eat its way into it, bringing up rocks the size
-of one's fist, along with the gravel and sand. In a few hours a hole,
-ten or fifteen feet in depth and ten feet in diameter, would be
-excavated. Then the tube was raised, the float was moved, and the work
-started again. The coarse sand and gravel, carried by a stream of
-water, was returned to the river, after passing over the riffles; the
-screenings which remained passed over square metal plates--looking
-like sheets of tin--covered with quicksilver. These plates were
-cleaned with a rubber window-cleaner, and the entire residue was saved
-in a heavy metal pot, ready for the chemist.
-
-One day only was needed for our work, and by evening we were ready for
-the next plunge. We might have enjoyed a longer stay with these men,
-but stronger than this desire was our anxiety to reach our home,
-separated from us by a hundred miles of river, no extended part of the
-distance being entirely free from rapids. We had written to the Grand
-Canyon, bidding them look for our signal fire in Bright Angel Creek
-Canyon, in from seven to ten days, and planned to leave on the
+of one’s fist, along with the gravel and sand. In a few hours a
+hole, ten or fifteen feet in depth and ten feet in diameter, would
+be excavated. Then the tube was raised, the float was moved, and
+the work started again. The coarse sand and gravel, carried by a
+stream of water, was returned to the river, after passing over the
+riffles; the screenings which remained passed over square metal
+plates--looking like sheets of tin--covered with quicksilver. These
+plates were cleaned with a rubber window-cleaner, and the entire
+residue was saved in a heavy metal pot, ready for the chemist.
+
+One day only was needed for our work, and by evening we were ready
+for the next plunge. We might have enjoyed a longer stay with these
+men, but stronger than this desire was our anxiety to reach our home,
+separated from us by a hundred miles of river, no extended part of
+the distance being entirely free from rapids. We had written to the
+Grand Canyon, bidding them look for our signal fire in Bright Angel
+Creek Canyon, in from seven to ten days, and planned to leave on the
 following morning. Nothing held us now except the hope that the mail,
-which was due that evening, might bring us a letter, although that was
-doubtful, for we were nearly a week ahead of our schedule as laid out
-at Green River, Utah.
+which was due that evening, might bring us a letter, although that
+was doubtful, for we were nearly a week ahead of our schedule as laid
+out at Green River, Utah.
+
+  [Illustration: BADGER CREEK RAPID. NOTE STERN OF BOAT BESIDE ROCK
+  NEAR CENTRE.]
+
+  [Illustration:                         _Photo by Julius F. Stone._
+  BANDS OF MARBLE IN MARBLE CANYON.]
 
 As we had anticipated, there was no mail for us, so we turned to
 inspect the mail carrier. He was a splendid specimen of the Navajo
-Indian,--a wrestler of note amoung his people, we were told,--large
+Indian,--a wrestler of note among his people, we were told,--large
 and muscular, and with a peculiar springy, slouchy walk that gave one
 the impression of great reserve strength. He had ridden that day from
 Tuba, an agency on their reservation, about seventy miles distant.
-This was the first sign of an Indian that we had seen in this section,
-although we had been travelling along the northern boundary of their
-reservation since leaving the mouth of the San Juan. These Indians
-have no use for the river, being children of the desert, rather than
-of the water. Beyond an occasional crossing and swimming their horses
-at easy fords, they make no attempt at its navigation, even in the
-quiet water of Glen Canyon.
+This was the first sign of an Indian that we had seen in this
+section, although we had been travelling along the northern boundary
+of their reservation since leaving the mouth of the San Juan. These
+Indians have no use for the river, being children of the desert,
+rather than of the water. Beyond an occasional crossing and swimming
+their horses at easy fords, they make no attempt at its navigation,
+even in the quiet water of Glen Canyon.
 
 Some of the men showed this Indian our boats, and told him of our
 journey. He smiled, and shrugged his massive shoulders as much as to
-say, he "would believe it when he saw it." He had an opportunity to
+say, he “would believe it when he saw it.” He had an opportunity to
 see us start, at least, on the following morning.
 
 Before leaving, we climbed a 300-foot mound on the left bank of the
 Paria River, directly opposite the Lee ranch. This mound is known as
-Lee's Lookout. Whether used by Lee or not, it had certainly served
+Lee’s Lookout. Whether used by Lee or not, it had certainly served
 that purpose at some time. A circular wall of rock was built on top
 the mound, and commanded an excellent view of all the approaches to
-the junction of the rivers. This spot is of particular interest to the
-geologist, for a great fault, indicated by the Vermilion Cliffs, marks
-the division between Glen Canyon and Marble Canyon. This line of
-cliffs extends to the south for many miles across the Painted Desert,
-and north into Utah for even a greater distance, varying in height
-from two hundred feet at the southern end to as many thousand feet in
-some places to the north. Looking to the west, we could see that here
-was another of those sloping uplifts of rock, with the river cutting
-down, increasing the depth of the canyon with every mile.
+the junction of the rivers. This spot is of particular interest to
+the geologist, for a great fault, indicated by the Vermilion Cliffs,
+marks the division between Glen Canyon and Marble Canyon. This line
+of cliffs extends to the south for many miles across the Painted
+Desert, and north into Utah for even a greater distance, varying in
+height from two hundred feet at the southern end to as many thousand
+feet in some places to the north. Looking to the west, we could see
+that here was another of those sloping uplifts of rock, with the
+river cutting down, increasing the depth of the canyon with every
+mile.
 
 We had now descended about 2900 feet since leaving Green River City,
 Wyoming, not a very great fall for the distance travelled if an
 average is taken, but a considerable portion of the distance was on
 quiet water, as we have noted, with a fall of a foot or two to the
 mile, and with alternate sections only containing bad water. We were
-still at an elevation of 3170 feet above the sea-level, and in the 283
-miles of canyon ahead of us--Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon
+still at an elevation of 3170 feet above the sea-level, and in the
+283 miles of canyon ahead of us--Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon
 combined--the river descends 2330 feet, almost a continuous series of
 rapids from this point to the end of the Grand Canyon.
 
 After a hasty survey from our vantage point, we returned to the river
 and prepared to embark. As we left the dredge, the work was closed
-down for a few minutes, and the entire crowd of men, about forty in
-number, stood on an elevation to watch us run the first rapid. The
-Indian had crossed to the south side of the to feed his horse and
-caught a glimpse of us as we went past him. Running pell-mell down to
-his boat, he crossed the river and joined the group on the bank. About
-this time we were in the grip of the first rapid, a long splashy one,
-with no danger whatever, but large enough to keep us busy until we had
-passed from view.
+down for a few minutes, and the entire crowd of men, about forty
+in number, stood on an elevation to watch us run the first rapid.
+The Indian had crossed to the south side of the to feed his horse
+and caught a glimpse of us as we went past him. Running pell-mell
+down to his boat, he crossed the river and joined the group on the
+bank. About this time we were in the grip of the first rapid, a long
+splashy one, with no danger whatever, but large enough to keep us
+busy until we had passed from view.
 
 A few miles below this, after running a pair of small rapids, we
 reached a larger one, known as the Badger Creek Rapid, with a
 twenty-foot drop in the first 250 feet, succeeded by a hundred yards
-of violent water. Emery had a little difficulty in this rapid, when
-his boat touched a rock which turned the boat sideways in the current,
-and he was nearly overturned in the heavy waves which followed. As it
-was, we were both drenched.
-
-About the middle of the afternoon, twelve miles below Lee's Ferry, we
-reached the Soap Creek Rapid of which we had heard so much. The rapid
-had a fall of twenty-five feet, and was a quarter of a mile long. Most
-of the fall occurred in the first fifty yards. The river had narrowed
-down until it was less than two hundred feet wide at the beginning of
-the descent. Many rocks were smattered all through the upper end,
-especially at the first drop. On the very brink or edge of the first
-fall, there was a submerged rock in the centre of the channel, making
-an eight-foot fall over the rock. A violent current, deflected from
-the left shore, shot into this centre and added to the confusion.
-Twelve-foot waves from the conflicting currents, played leap-frog,
-jumping over or through each other alternately. Clearly there was no
-channel on that side. On the right or north side of the stream it
-looked more feasible, as the water shot down a sloping chute over a
-hundred feet before meeting with an obstruction. This came in the
-shape of two rocks, one about thirty feet below the other. To run the
-rapid this first rock would have to be passed before any attempt could
-be made to pull away from the second rock, which was quite close to
-the shore. Once past that there was a clear channel to the end of the
-rapid, if the centre, which contained many rocks, was avoided. Below
-the rapid was the usual whirlpool, then a smaller rapid, running under
-the left wall. This second rapid was the one that had been so fatal
-for Brown. The Soap Creek rapid in many ways was not as bad as some we
-had gone over in Cataract Canyon, but there were so many complications
-that we hesitated a long time before coming to a decision that we
-would make an attempt with one boat, depending on our good luck which
-had brought us through so many times, as much as we depended on our
-handling of the boat.
+of violent water. Emery had a little difficulty in this rapid,
+when his boat touched a rock which turned the boat sideways in the
+current, and he was nearly overturned in the heavy waves which
+followed. As it was, we were both drenched.
+
+About the middle of the afternoon, twelve miles below Lee’s Ferry,
+we reached the Soap Creek Rapid of which we had heard so much. The
+rapid had a fall of twenty-five feet, and was a quarter of a mile
+long. Most of the fall occurred in the first fifty yards. The river
+had narrowed down until it was less than two hundred feet wide at the
+beginning of the descent. Many rocks were scattered all through the
+upper end, especially at the first drop. On the very brink or edge
+of the first fall, there was a submerged rock in the centre of the
+channel, making an eight-foot fall over the rock. A violent current,
+deflected from the left shore, shot into this centre and added to
+the confusion. Twelve-foot waves, from the conflicting currents,
+played leap-frog, jumping over or through each other alternately.
+Clearly there was no channel on that side. On the right or north
+side of the stream it looked more feasible, as the water shot down a
+sloping chute over a hundred feet before meeting with an obstruction.
+This came in the shape of two rocks, one about thirty feet below
+the other. To run the rapid this first rock would have to be passed
+before any attempt could be made to pull away from the second rock,
+which was quite close to the shore. Once past that there was a clear
+channel to the end of the rapid, if the centre, which contained many
+rocks, was avoided. Below the rapid was the usual whirlpool, then a
+smaller rapid, running under the left wall. This second rapid was
+the one that had been so fatal for Brown. The Soap Creek rapid in
+many ways was not as bad as some we had gone over in Cataract Canyon,
+but there were so many complications that we hesitated a long time
+before coming to a decision that we would make an attempt with one
+boat, depending on our good luck which had brought us through so many
+times, as much as we depended on our handling of the boat.
 
 It was planned that I should make the first attempt while Emery
 remained with the motion-picture camera just below the rock that we
-most feared, with the agreement that he was to get a picture of the
-upset if one occurred, then run to the lower end of the rapid with a
-rope and a life-preserver.
+most feared, with the agreement that he was to get a picture of
+the upset if one occurred, then run to the lower end of the rapid
+with a rope and a life-preserver.
+
+  [Illustration: A PEACEFUL CAMP IN MARBLE CANYON, BELOW VASEY’S
+  PARADISE.]
 
 After adjusting life-preservers I returned to my boat and was soon on
 the smooth water above the rapid, holding my boat to prevent her from
 being swept over the rock in the centre, jockeying for the proper
-position before I would allow her to be carried into the current. Once
-in, it seemed but an instant until I was past the first rock, and
-almost on top of the second. I was pulling with every ounce of
+position before I would allow her to be carried into the current.
+Once in, it seemed but an instant until I was past the first rock,
+and almost on top of the second. I was pulling with every ounce of
 strength, and was almost clear of the rock when the stern touched it
 gently. I had no idea the boat would overturn, but thought she would
 swing around the rock, heading bow first into the stream, as had been
@@ -4737,63 +4886,65 @@ her side with the bottom of the boat held against the rock while I
 found myself thrown out of the boat, but hanging to the gunwale. Then
 the boat swung around and instantly turned upright while I scrambled
 back into the cockpit. Looking over my shoulder, when I had things
-well in hand again, I saw my brother was still at the camera, white as
-a sheet, but turning at the crank as if our entire safety depended on
-it. After I landed the water-filled boat, however, he confessed to me
-that he had no idea whether he had caught the upset or not, as he may
-have resumed the work when he saw that I was safe.
+well in hand again, I saw my brother was still at the camera, white
+as a sheet, but turning at the crank as if our entire safety depended
+on it. After I landed the water-filled boat, however, he confessed to
+me that he had no idea whether he had caught the upset or not, as he
+may have resumed the work when he saw that I was safe.
 
 Then we went to work to find out what damage was done. First we found
-that the case, which was supposed to be waterproof, had a half-inch of
-water inside, but fortunately none of our films were wet. Some plates
-which we had just exposed and which were still in the holders were
-soaked. The cameras also had suffered. We hurriedly wiped off the
-surplus water and piled these things on the shore, then emptied the
-boat of a few barrels of water.
+that the case, which was supposed to be waterproof, had a half-inch
+of water inside, but fortunately none of our films were wet. Some
+plates which we had just exposed and which were still in the holders
+were soaked. The cameras also had suffered. We hurriedly wiped off
+the surplus water and piled these things on the shore, then emptied
+the boat of a few barrels of water.
 
 This one experience, I suppose, should have been enough for me with
 that rapid, but I foolishly insisted on making another trial at it
 with the _Edith_, for I felt sure I could make it if I only had
-another chance, and the fact that Emery had the empty boat at the end
-of the rapid and could rescue me if an upset occurred greatly lessened
-the danger. The idea of making a portage, with the loss of nearly a
-day, did not appeal to me.
+another chance, and the fact that Emery had the empty boat at the
+end of the rapid and could rescue me if an upset occurred greatly
+lessened the danger. The idea of making a portage, with the loss of
+nearly a day, did not appeal to me.
 
 Emery agreed to this reluctantly, and advised waiting until morning,
-for it was growing dusk, but with the remark "I will sleep better with
-both boats tied at the lower end of the rapid," I returned to the
-_Edith_. To make a long story short I missed my channel, and was
+for it was growing dusk, but with the remark “I will sleep better
+with both boats tied at the lower end of the rapid,” I returned to
+the _Edith_. To make a long story short I missed my channel, and was
 carried over the rock in the centre of the stream. The _Edith_ had
 bravely mounted the first wave, and was climbing the second comber,
-standing almost on end, seemed to me, when the wave crested over the
-stern while the current shooting it from the side struck the submerged
-bow and she fell back in the water upside down. It was all done so
-quickly, I hardly knew what had occurred, but found myself in the
-water, whirling this way and that, holding to the right oar with a
-death-grip. I wondered if the strings would hold, and felt a great
+standing almost on end, it seemed to me, when the wave crested over
+the stern, while the current shooting it from the side struck the
+submerged bow and she fell back in the water upside down. It was all
+done so quickly, I hardly knew what had occurred, but found myself in
+the water, whirling this way and that, holding to the right oar with
+a death-grip. I wondered if the strings would hold, and felt a great
 relief when the oar stopped slipping down,--as the blade reached the
-ring. It was the work of a second to climb the oar, and I found I was
-under the cockpit. Securing a firm hold on the gunwale, which had
-helped us so often, I got on the outside of the boat, thinking I might
-climb on top. About that time one of the largest waves broke over me,
-knocking me on the side of the head as if with a solid object, nearly
-tearing me from the boat. After that I kept as close to the boat as
-possible, paddling with my feet to keep them clear of rocks. Then the
-suction of the boat caught them and dragged them under, and for the
-rest of the rapid I had all I could do to hang to the boat. As the
-rapid dwindled I began to look for Emery, but was unable to see him,
-for it was now growing quite dark, but I could see a fire on shore
-that he had built. I tried to call but was strangled with the breaking
-waves; my voice was drowned in the roar of the rapid. One of the
-life-preservers was torn loose and floated ahead of me. Finally I got
-an answer, and could see that Emery had launched his boat. As he drew
-near I told him to save the life-preserver, which he did, then
-hurriedly pulled for me. I remarked with a forced laugh, to reassure
-him, "Gee, Emery, this water's cold."
-
-He failed to join in my levity, however, and said with feeling, "Thank
-the good Lord you are here!" and down in my heart I echoed his prayer
-of thanks.
+ring. It was the work of a second to climb the oar, and I found I
+was under the cockpit. Securing a firm hold on the gunwale, which
+had helped us so often, I got on the outside of the boat, thinking I
+might climb on top. About that time one of the largest waves broke
+over me, knocking me on the side of the head as if with a solid
+object, nearly tearing me from the boat. After that I kept as close
+to the boat as possible, paddling with my feet to keep them clear
+of rocks. Then the suction of the boat caught them and dragged them
+under, and for the rest of the rapid I had all I could do to hang to
+the boat. As the rapid dwindled I began to look for Emery, but was
+unable to see him, for it was now growing quite dark, but I could see
+a fire on shore that he had built. I tried to call but was strangled
+with the breaking waves; my voice was drowned in the roar of the
+rapid. One of the life-preservers was torn loose and floated ahead of
+me. Finally I got an answer, and could see that Emery had launched
+his boat. As he drew near I told him to save the life-preserver,
+which he did, then hurriedly pulled for me. I remarked with a forced
+laugh, to reassure him,
+
+“Gee, Emery, this water’s cold.”
+
+He failed to join in my levity, however, and said with feeling,
+“Thank the good Lord you are here!” and down in my heart I echoed his
+prayer of thanks.
 
 Somehow I had lost all desire to successfully navigate the Soap Creek
 Rapid.
@@ -4802,39 +4953,41 @@ But our troubles were not entirely over. Emery had pulled me in after
 a futile attempt or two, with a hold sometimes used by wrestlers,
 linking his arm in mine, leaning forward, and pulling me in over his
 back I was so numbed by the cold that I could do little to help him,
-after what, I suppose, was about a quarter of an hour's struggle in
+after what, I suppose, was about a quarter of an hour’s struggle in
 the water; although it seemed much longer than that to me.
 
 We then caught the _Edith_ and attempted to turn her over, but before
 this could be done we were dragged into the next rapid. Emery caught
 up the oars, while I could do nothing but hold to the upturned boat,
 half filled with water, striving to drag us against the wall on the
-left side of the stream. It was no small task to handle the two boats
-in this way, but Emery made it; then, when he thought we were sure of
-a landing, the _Edith_ dragged us into the river again. Two more small
-rapids were run as we peered through the darkness for a landing.
-Finally we reached the shore over a mile below the Soap Creek Rapid.
-We were on the opposite side of the stream from that where we had
-unloaded the _Defiance_. This material would have to stay where it was
-that night.
+left side of the stream. It was no small task to handle the two
+boats in this way, but Emery made it; then, when he thought we were
+sure of a landing, the _Edith_ dragged us into the river again. Two
+more small rapids were run as we peered through the darkness for a
+landing. Finally we reached the shore over a mile below the Soap
+Creek Rapid. We were on the opposite side of the stream from that
+where we had unloaded the _Defiance_. This material would have to
+stay where it was that night.
+
+  [Illustration: THE SOAP CREEK RAPID; A LITTLE ABOVE LOWEST STAGE.
+  PHOTO PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF JULIUS F. STONE.]
 
 While bailing the water from the _Edith_ we noticed a peculiar odour,
-and thought for a while that it might be the body of the man who was
-drowned at the ferry, but later we found it came from a green
+and thought for a while that it might be the body of the man who
+was drowned at the ferry, but later we found it came from a green
 cottonwood log that had become water-soaked, and was embedded in the
-sand, close to our landing. It was Emery's turn to do the greater part
-of the camp work that night, while I was content to hug the fire,
-wrapped in blankets, waiting for the coffee to boil.
+sand, close to our landing. It was Emery’s turn to do the greater
+part of the camp work that night, while I was content to hug the
+fire, wrapped in blankets, waiting for the coffee to boil.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII
 
-
-
 MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS
 
+
 There was little of the spectacular in our work the next day as we
 slowly and laboriously dragged an empty boat upstream against the
 swift-running current, taking advantage of many little eddies, but
@@ -4842,51 +4995,51 @@ finding much of the shore swept clean. I had ample opportunity to
 ponder on the wisdom of my attempt to save time by running the Soap
 Creek Rapid instead of making a portage, while we carried our loads
 over the immense boulders that banked the stream, down to a swift
-piece of water, past which we could not well bring the boats or while
-we developed the wet plates from the ruined plate-holders. It was with
-no little surprise that we found all the plates, except a few which
-were not uniformly wet and developed unevenly, could be saved. It took
-a day and a half to complete all this work.
-
-Marble Canyon was now beginning to narrow up with a steep,
-boulder-covered slope on either side, three or four hundred feet high;
-with a sheer wall of dark red limestone of equal height directly above
-that. There was also a plateau of red sandstone and distant walls
-topped with light-coloured rock, the same formations with which we
-were familiar in the Grand Canyon. The inner gorge had narrowed from a
-thousand feet or more down to four hundred feet, the slope at the
-river was growing steeper and gradually disappearing, and each mile of
-travel had added a hundred feet or more to the height of the walls.
-Soon after resuming our journey that afternoon, the slope disappeared
-altogether, and the sheer walls came down close to the water. There
-were few places where one could climb out, had we desired to do so.
-This hard limestone wall, which Major Powell had named the marble
-wall, had a disconcerting way of weathering very smooth and sheer,
-with a few ledges and fewer breaks.
+piece of water, past which we could not well bring the boats; or while
+we developed the wet plates from the ruined plate-holders. It was
+with no little surprise that we found all the plates, except a few
+which were not uniformly wet and developed unevenly, could be saved.
+It took a day and a half to complete all this work.
+
+Marble Canyon was now beginning to narrow up, with a steep,
+boulder-covered slope on either side, three or four hundred feet
+high; with a sheer wall of dark red limestone of equal height
+directly above that. There was also a plateau of red sandstone and
+distant walls topped with light-coloured rock, the same formations
+with which we were familiar in the Grand Canyon. The inner gorge had
+narrowed from a thousand feet or more down to four hundred feet, the
+slope at the river was growing steeper and gradually disappearing,
+and each mile of travel had added a hundred feet or more to the
+height of the walls. Soon after resuming our journey that afternoon,
+the slope disappeared altogether, and the sheer walls came down close
+to the water. There were few places where one could climb out, had we
+desired to do so. This hard limestone wall, which Major Powell had
+named the marble wall, had a disconcerting way of weathering very
+smooth and sheer, with a few ledges and fewer breaks.
 
 We made a short run that day, going over a few rapids, stopping an
 hour to make some pictures where an immense rock had fallen from the
 cliff above into the middle of the river bed, leaving a forty-foot
 channel on one side, and scarcely any on the other. Below this we
-found a rapid so much like the Soap Creek Rapid in appearance that a
-portage seemed advisable. It was evening when we got the _Edith_ to
-the lower end of this rapid after almost losing her, as we lined her
-down, and she was wedged under a sloping rock that overhung the rapid.
-We had two ropes, one at either end, attached to the boat in this
-case. Emery stood below the rock ready to pull her in when once past
-the rock. There was a sickening crackling of wood as the deck of the
-boat wedged under and down to the level of the water, and at Emery's
-call I released the boat, throwing the rope into the river, and
-hurried to help him. He was almost dragged into the water as the boat
-swung around fortunately striking against a sand-bank, instead of the
-many rocks that lined the shore. We were working with a stream
-different from the Green River, we found, and the _Defiance_ was taken
-from the water the next day and slowly worked, one end at a time, over
-the rocks, up to a level sand-bank, twenty-five or thirty feet above
-the river. Then we put rollers under her, and worked her down past the
-rapid. This work was little to our liking, for the boats, now pretty
-well water-soaked, weighed considerably more than their original five
-hundred pounds' weight.
+found a rapid so much like the Soap Creek Rapid in appearance that
+a portage seemed advisable. It was evening when we got the _Edith_
+to the lower end of this rapid after almost losing her, as we lined
+her down, and she was wedged under a sloping rock that overhung the
+rapid. We had two ropes, one at either end, attached to the boat in
+this case. Emery stood below the rock ready to pull her in when once
+past the rock. There was a sickening crackling of wood as the deck
+of the boat wedged under and down to the level of the water, and at
+Emery’s call I released the boat, throwing the rope into the river,
+and hurried to help him. He was almost dragged into the water as the
+boat swung around, fortunately striking against a sand-bank, instead
+of the many rocks that lined the shore. We were working with a stream
+different from the Green River, we found, and the _Defiance_ was
+taken from the water the next day and slowly worked, one end at a
+time, over the rocks, up to a level sand-bank, twenty-five or thirty
+feet above the river. Then we put rollers under her, and worked her
+down past the rapid. This work was little to our liking, for the
+boats, now pretty well water-soaked, weighed considerably more than
+their original five hundred pounds’ weight.
 
 A few successful plunges soon brought back our former confidence, and
 we continued to run all other rapids that presented themselves. This
@@ -4896,64 +5049,71 @@ stage of water, however, would have made many such rapids. Just below
 this point we found the body of a bighorn mountain-sheep floating in
 an eddy. It was impossible to tell just how he came to his death.
 There was no sign of any great fall that we could see. He had a
-splendid pair of horns, which we would have liked to have had at home,
-but which we did not care to amputate and carry with us.
+splendid pair of horns, which we would have liked to have had at
+home, but which we did not care to amputate and carry with us.
 
-On this day's travel, we passed a number of places where the
-marble--which had suggested this canyon's name to Major
+  [Illustration:                            _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  “IT WAS TOO GOOD A CAMP TO MISS.”]
+
+  [Illustration:                            _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  ARCH IN MARBLE CANYON. NOTE FIGURE ON RIGHT.]
+
+On this day’s travel, we passed a number of places where
+the marble--which had suggested this canyon’s name to Major
 Powell--appeared. The exposed parts were checked, or seamed, and
 apparently would have little commercial value. We passed a shallow
 cave or two this day, then found another cave or hole, running back
-about fifteen feet in the wall, so suitable for a camp that we could
-not refuse the temptation to stop, although we had made but a very
-short run this day. The high water had entered it, depositing
+about fifteen feet in the wall, so suitable for a camp that we
+could not refuse the temptation to stop, although we had made but a
+very short run this day. The high water had entered it, depositing
 successive layers of sand on the bottom, rising in steps, one above
 the other, making convenient shelves for maps and journals, pots and
-pans; while little shovelling was necessary to make the lower level of
-sand fit our sleeping bags. A number of small springs, bubbling from
-the walls near by, gave us the first clear water that we had found for
-some time, and a pile of driftwood caught in the rocks, directly in
-front of our cave, added to its desirability for a camp. Firewood was
-beginning to be the first consideration in choosing a camp, for in
-many places the high water had swept the shores clean, and spots which
-might otherwise have made splendid camps were rendered most
-undesirable for this reason.
-
-So Camp Number 47 was made in this little cave, with a violent rapid
-directly beneath us, making a din that might be anything but
-reassuring, were we not pretty well accustomed to it by this time. The
-next day, Sunday, November the 12th, was passed in the same spot. The
-air turned decidedly cold this day, a hard wind swept up the river,
-the sky above was overcast, and we had little doubt that snow was
-falling on the Kaibab Plateau, which we could not see, but which we
-knew rose to the height of 5500 feet above us, but a few miles to the
-northwest of this camp. The sheer walls directly above the river
+pans; while little shovelling was necessary to make the lower level
+of sand fit our sleeping bags. A number of small springs, bubbling
+from the walls near by, gave us the first clear water that we had
+found for some time, and a pile of driftwood caught in the rocks,
+directly in front of our cave, added to its desirability for a camp.
+Firewood was beginning to be the first consideration in choosing
+a camp, for in many places the high water had swept the shores
+clean, and spots which might otherwise have made splendid camps were
+rendered most undesirable for this reason.
+
+So Camp Number 47 was made in this little cave, with a violent
+rapid directly beneath us, making a din that might be anything but
+reassuring, were we not pretty well accustomed to it by this time.
+The next day, Sunday, November the 12th, was passed in the same spot.
+The air turned decidedly cold this day, a hard wind swept up the
+river, the sky above was overcast, and we had little doubt that snow
+was falling on the Kaibab Plateau, which we could not see, but which
+we knew rose to the height of 5500 feet above us, but a few miles to
+the northwest of this camp. The sheer walls directly above the river
 dropped down considerably at this point, and a break or two permitted
 us to climb up as high as we cared to go on the red sandstone wall,
-which had lost its level character, and now rose in a steep slope over
-a thousand feet above us. These walls, with no growth but the tussocks
-of bunch-grass, the prickly pear cactus, the mescal, and the yucca,
-were more destitute of growth than any we had seen, excepting the
-upper end of Desolation Canyon, even the upper walls lacking the
+which had lost its level character, and now rose in a steep slope
+over a thousand feet above us. These walls, with no growth but the
+tussocks of bunch-grass, the prickly pear cactus, the mescal, and the
+yucca, were more destitute of growth than any we had seen, excepting
+the upper end of Desolation Canyon, even the upper walls lacking the
 growth of piñon pine and juniper which we usually associated with
-them. We were now directly below the Painted Desert, which lay to the
-left of the canyon, and no doubt a similar desert was on the
+them. We were now directly below the Painted Desert, which lay to
+the left of the canyon, and no doubt a similar desert was on the
 right-hand side, in the form of a narrow plateau; but we had no means
-of knowing just how wide or narrow this was, before it raised again to
-the forest-covered Buckskin Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau.
-
-The rapid below our camp was just as bad as its roar, we found, on
-running it the next day. Most of the descent was confined to a violent
-drop at the very beginning, but there was a lot of complicated water
-in the big waves that followed. Emery was thrown forward in his boat,
-when he reached the bottom of the chute, striking his mouth, and
-bruising his hands, as he dropped his oars and caught the bulkhead. An
-extra oar was wrenched from the boat and disappeared in the white
-water, or foam that was as nearly white as muddy water ever gets. I
-nearly upset, and broke the pin of a rowlock, the released oar being
-jerked from my hand, sending me scrambling for an extra oar, when the
-boat swept into a swift whirlpool. Emery caught my oar as it whirled
-past him; the other was found a half-mile below in an eddy.
+of knowing just how wide or narrow this was, before it raised again
+to the forest-covered Buckskin Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau.
+
+The rapid below our camp was just as bad as its roar, we found,
+on running it the next day. Most of the descent was confined to
+a violent drop at the very beginning, but there was a lot of
+complicated water in the big waves that followed. Emery was thrown
+forward in his boat, when he reached the bottom of the chute,
+striking his mouth, and bruising his hands, as he dropped his oars
+and caught the bulkhead. An extra oar was wrenched from the boat
+and disappeared in the white water, or foam that was as nearly
+white as muddy water ever gets. I nearly upset, and broke the pin
+of a rowlock, the released oar being jerked from my hand, sending
+me scrambling for an extra oar, when the boat swept into a swift
+whirlpool. Emery caught my oar as it whirled past him; the other was
+found a half-mile below in an eddy.
 
 Some of the rapids in the centre of Marble Canyon were not more than
 75 feet wide, with a corresponding violence of water. The whirlpools
@@ -4961,69 +5121,71 @@ in the wider channels below these rapids were the strongest we had
 seen, and had a most annoying way of holding the boats just when we
 thought we had evaded them. Sometimes there would be a whirlpool on
 either side, with a sharply defined line of division in the centre,
-along which it was next to impossible to go without being caught on
-one side or the other. These whirlpools were seldom regarded as
-serious, for our boats were too wide and heavy to be readily
-overturned in them, although we saved ourselves more than one upset by
-throwing our weight to the opposite side. A small boat would have
+along which it was next to impossible to go without being caught
+on one side or the other. These whirlpools were seldom regarded
+as serious, for our boats were too wide and heavy to be readily
+overturned in them, although we saved ourselves more than one upset
+by throwing our weight to the opposite side. A small boat would have
 upset. On two occasions we were caught in small whirlpools, where a
-point of rock projected from the shore, turning upstream, splitting a
-swift current and making a very rapid and difficult whirl, where the
-boats were nearly smashed against the walls. Below all such places
-were the familiar boils, or fountains, or shoots, as they are
+point of rock projected from the shore, turning upstream, splitting
+a swift current and making a very rapid and difficult whirl, where
+the boats were nearly smashed against the walls. Below all such
+places were the familiar boils, or fountains, or shoots, as they are
 variously termed. These are the lower end of the whirlpools, emerging
 often from the quiet water below a rapid with nearly as much violence
 as they disappeared in the rapids above. These would often rise when
 least expected, breaking under the boats, the swift upshoot of water
-giving them such a rap that we sometimes thought we had struck a rock.
-If one happened to be in the centre of a boil when it broke, it would
-send them sailing down the stream many times faster than the regular
-current was travelling, rowing the boat having about as little effect
-on determining its course as if it was loaded on a flat-car. The other
-boat, at times just a few feet away, might be caught in the whirlpools
-that formed at the edge of the fountains, often opening up suddenly
-under one side of the boat, causing it to dip until the water poured
-over the edge, holding it to that one spot in spite of every effort to
-row away.
-
-Then we would strike peaceful water again, a mile or perhaps, so quiet
-that a thin covering of clear water over the top of the silt-laden
-pool beneath, reflecting the tinted walls and the turquoise sky
-beneath its limpid surface. Gems of sunlight sparkled on its bosom and
-scintillated in the ripples left behind by the oars. When seated with
-our backs to the strongest light, and when glancing along the top of
-such a pool instead of into it, the mirror-like surface gave way to a
-peculiar purplish tone which seemed to cover the pool, so that one
-would forget it was roily water, and saw only the iridescent beauty of
-a mountain stream.
+giving them such a rap that we sometimes thought we had struck a
+rock. If one happened to be in the centre of a boil when it broke,
+it would send them sailing down the stream many times faster than
+the regular current was travelling, rowing the boat having about as
+little effect on determining its course as if it was loaded on a
+flat-car. The other boat, at times just a few feet away, might be
+caught in the whirlpools that formed at the edge of the fountains,
+often opening up suddenly under one side of the boat, causing it to
+dip until the water poured over the edge, holding it to that one spot
+in spite of every effort to row away.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  WALLS OF MARBLE CANYON.]
+
+Then we would strike peaceful water again, a mile or two perhaps,
+so quiet that a thin covering of clear water over the top of the
+silt-laden pool beneath, reflecting the tinted walls and the
+turquoise sky beneath its limpid surface. Gems of sunlight sparkled
+on its bosom and scintillated in the ripples left behind by the oars.
+When seated with our backs to the strongest light, and when glancing
+along the top of such a pool instead of into it, the mirror-like
+surface gave way to a peculiar purplish tone which seemed to cover
+the pool, so that one would forget it was roily water, and saw only
+the iridescent beauty of a mountain stream.
 
 The wonderful marble walls--better known to the miners as the blue
-limestone walls--now rose from the water's edge to a height of eight
-or nine hundred feet, the surface of its light blue-gray rock being
-stained to a dark red, or a light red as the case might be, by the
-iron from the sandstone walls above. There were a thousand feet of
-these sandstone layers, red in all its varying hues, capped by the
-four-hundred foot cross-bedded sandstone wall, breaking sheer, ranging
-in tone from a soft buff to a golden yellow, with a bloom, or glow, as
-though illuminated from within. As we proceeded, another layer could
-be seen above this, the same limestone and with the same fossils--an
-examination of the rock-slides told us--as the topmost formation at
-the Grand Canyon. This was not unlike the cross-bedded sandstone in
-colour, but lacked its warmth and richness of tint.
-
-A close, examination of the rocks revealed many colours, that figured
-but little in the grand colour scheme of the canyon as a whole--the
-detailed ornamentation of the magnificent rock structure. A fracture
-of wall would show the true colour of the rock, beneath the stain;
-lime crystals studded its surface, like gems glinting in the sunlight;
-beautifully tinted jasper, resembling the petrified wood found in
-another part of Arizona, was embedded in the marble wall,--usually at
-the point of contact with another formation,--polished by the sands of
-the turbid river.
+limestone walls--now rose from the water’s edge to a height of
+eight or nine hundred feet, the surface of its light blue-gray rock
+being stained to a dark red, or a light red as the case might be,
+by the iron from the sandstone walls above. There were a thousand
+feet of these sandstone layers, red in all its varying hues, capped
+by the four-hundred foot cross-bedded sandstone wall, breaking
+sheer, ranging in tone from a soft buff to a golden yellow, with a
+bloom, or glow, as though illuminated from within. As we proceeded,
+another layer could be seen above this, the same limestone and with
+the same fossils--an examination of the rock-slides told us--as
+the topmost formation at the Grand Canyon. This was not unlike the
+cross-bedded sandstone in colour, but lacked its warmth and richness
+of tint. A close, examination of the rocks revealed many colours,
+that figured but little in the grand colour scheme of the canyon
+as a whole--the detailed ornamentation of the magnificent rock
+structure. A fracture of wall would show the true colour of the
+rock, beneath the stain; lime crystals studded its surface, like
+gems glinting in the sunlight; beautifully tinted jasper, resembling
+the petrified wood found in another part of Arizona, was embedded
+in the marble wall,--usually at the point of contact with another
+formation,--polished by the sands of the turbid river.
 
 All this told us that we were coming into our own. Four of the seven
-notable divisions of rock strata found in the Grand Canyon were now
-represented in Marble Canyon, and soon the green shale, which
+notable divisions of rock strata found in the Grand Canyon were
+now represented in Marble Canyon, and soon the green shale, which
 underlies the blue limestone, began to crop out by the river as the
 walls grew higher and the stream cut deeper.
 
@@ -5033,67 +5195,71 @@ this ill-fated expedition lost their lives--and climbed out on top.
 Afterwards he re-outfitted with heavier boats and tackled the stream
 again.
 
-Just below this break the scene changed as we made a sharp turn to the
-left. Vasey's Paradise--named by Major Powell after Dr. Geo. W. Vasey,
-botanist of the United States Department of Agriculture--was disclosed
-to view. Beautiful streams gushed from rounded holes, fifty yards
-above the river. The rock walls reminded one of an ivy-covered castle
-of old England, guarded by a moat uncrossed by any drawbridge. It was
-trellised with vines, maidenhair ferns, and water-moss making a vivid
-green background for the golden yellow and burnished copper leaves
-which still clung to some small cottonwood trees--the only trees we
-had seen in Marble Canyon.
+Just below this break the scene changed as we made a sharp turn to
+the left. Vasey’s Paradise--named by Major Powell after Dr. Geo. W.
+Vasey, botanist of the United States Department of Agriculture--was
+disclosed to view. Beautiful streams gushed from rounded holes,
+fifty yards above the river. The rock walls reminded one of an
+ivy-covered castle of old England, guarded by a moat uncrossed by
+any drawbridge. It was trellised with vines, maidenhair ferns, and
+water-moss making a vivid green background for the golden yellow and
+burnished copper leaves which still clung to some small cottonwood
+trees--the only trees we had seen in Marble Canyon.
 
 In our haste to push on, we left the brass motion-picture tripod head
-on an island, from which we pictured this lovely spot. A rapid was put
-behind us before we noticed our loss, and there was no going back
+on an island, from which we pictured this lovely spot. A rapid was
+put behind us before we noticed our loss, and there was no going back
 then.
 
 Another turn revealed a Gothic arch, or grotto, carved at the bend of
 the wall by the high water, with an overhang of more than a hundred
-feet, and a height nearly as great, for the flood waters ran above the
-hundred-foot stage in this narrow walled section. Then came a gloomy,
-prison-like formation, with a "Bridge of Sighs" two hundred feet above
-a gulch, connecting the dungeon to the perpendicular wall beyond; and
-with a hundred cave-like openings in its sheer sides like small
-windows, admitting a little daylight into its dark interior. The
-sullen boom of a rapid around the turn sounded like the march of an
-army coming up the gorge, so we climbed back into our boats after a
-vain attempt to climb up to some of the caves, and advanced to meet
-our foe. This rapid--the tenth for the day--while it was clear of
-rocks, had an abrupt drop, with powerful waves which did all sorts of
-things to us and to our boats; breaking a rowlock and the four pieces
-of line which held it, and flooding us both with a ton of water. We
-went into camp a short distance below this, in a narrow box canyon
-running back a hundred yards from the river, a gloomy, cathedral-like
-interior with sheer walls rising several hundred feet on three sides
-of us, and with the top of the south wall 2500 feet above us in plain
-sight of our camp, the one camp in Marble Canyon where our sleep was
-undisturbed by the roar of a rapid. But instead of the roar of a
-rapid, a howling wind swept down from the Painted Desert above, piling
-the mingled desert sands and river sands about our beds, scattering
-our camp material over the bottom of the narrow gorge.
+feet, and a height nearly as great, for the flood waters ran above
+the hundred-foot stage in this narrow walled section. Then came a
+gloomy, prison-like formation, with a “Bridge of Sighs” two hundred
+feet above a gulch, connecting the dungeon to the perpendicular wall
+beyond; and with a hundred cave-like openings in its sheer sides like
+small windows, admitting a little daylight into its dark interior.
+The sullen boom of a rapid around the turn sounded like the march of
+an army coming up the gorge, so we climbed back into our boats after
+a vain attempt to climb up to some of the caves, and advanced to
+meet our foe. This rapid--the tenth for the day--while it was clear
+of rocks, had an abrupt drop, with powerful waves which did all
+sorts of things to us and to our boats; breaking a rowlock and the
+four pieces of line which held it, and flooding us both with a ton
+of water. We went into camp a short distance below this, in a narrow
+box canyon running back a hundred yards from the river, a gloomy,
+cathedral-like interior, with sheer walls rising several hundred feet
+on three sides of us, and with the top of the south wall 2500 feet
+above us in plain sight of our camp, the one camp in Marble Canyon
+where our sleep was undisturbed by the roar of a rapid. But instead
+of the roar of a rapid, a howling wind swept down from the Painted
+Desert above, piling the mingled desert sands and river sands about
+our beds, scattering our camp material over the bottom of the narrow
+gorge.
 
 Soon after this camp--the fourth and the last in Marble Canyon--was
 left behind us, the walls began to widen out, especially on the
 north-northwest, and by noon we had passed from the narrow, direct
 canyon, into one with slopes and plateaus breaking the sheer walls,
 the wall on the left or southeast side being much the lower of the
-two, and more nearly perpendicular, rising to a height of 3200 feet,
-while the northwest side lifted up to the Kaibab Plateau, one
+two, and more nearly perpendicular, rising to a height of 3200
+feet, while the northwest side lifted up to the Kaibab Plateau, one
 point--miles back from the river--rising 6000 feet above us.
 
-We halted at noon beside the Nancoweep Valley. A wide tributary
-heading many miles back in the plateau the right, with a ramified
-series of canyons running into it, and with great expanses of
-sage-covered flats between. Deer tracks were found on these flats,
-deer which came down from the forest of the Buckskin Mountains. This
-was the point selected by Major Powell for the construction of a trail
-when he returned from his voyage of exploration to study the geology
-of this section. The trail, although neglected for many years, is
-still used by prospectors from Kanab, Utah, who make a yearly trip
-into the canyons to do some work on a mineral ledge a few miles below
-here.
+  [Illustration:                            _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  APPROACHING THE GRAND CANYON. NOTE BOAT.]
+
+We halted at noon beside the Nancoweep Valley, a wide tributary
+heading many miles back in the plateau on the right, with a
+ramified series of canyons running into it, and with great expanses
+of sage-covered flats between. Deer tracks were found on these flats,
+deer which came down from the forest of the Buckskin Mountains.
+This was the point selected by Major Powell for the construction of
+a trail when he returned from his voyage of exploration to study
+the geology of this section. The trail, although neglected for many
+years, is still used by prospectors from Kanab, Utah, who make a
+yearly trip into the canyons to do some work on a mineral ledge a few
+miles below here.
 
 What a glorious, exhilarating run we had that day! From here to the
 end of Marble Canyon the rapids were almost continuous, with few
@@ -5103,209 +5269,225 @@ The only previous run we had made that could in any way compare with
 it was in Whirlpool and Split Mountain canyons, when the high water
 was on. As we travelled, occasional glimpses were had of familiar
 places on Greenland Point--that thirty-mile peninsula of the Kaibab
-Plateau extending between Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon--where we
-had gone deer-hunting, or on photographic expeditions with Rust.
+Plateau extending between Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon--where
+we had gone deer-hunting, or on photographic expeditions with Rust.
 
 Another valley from the right was passed, then a peak rose before us
-close to the river, with its flat top rising to a height equal to the
-south wall. This was Chuar Butte. Once more we were in a narrow
-canyon, narrowing by this peak, but a canyon just the same. Soon we
+close to the river, with its flat top rising to a height equal to
+the south wall. This was Chuar Butte. Once more we were in a narrow
+canyon, narrowed by this peak, but a canyon just the same. Soon we
 were below a wall we once had photographed from the mouth of the
-Little Colorado; then the stream itself came into view and we were
-soon anchored beside it. This was the beginning of the Grand Canyon.
+Little Colorado; then the stream itself came in view and we were soon
+anchored beside it. This was the beginning of the Grand Canyon.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIX
 
-
-
 SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME
 
+
 How long we had waited for this view! How many memories it
 recalled--and how different it seemed to our previous visit there!
-Then, the high water was on, and the turquoise-tinted mineral water of
-the Colorado Chiquito was backed up by the turbid flood waters of the
-Rio Colorado, forty feet or more above the present level. Now it was a
-rapid stream, throwing itself with wild abandon over the rocks and
-into the Colorado. There was the same deserted stone hut, built by a
-French prospector, many years before, and a plough that he had packed
-in over a thirty-mile trail--the most difficult one in all this rugged
-region! There was the little grass-plot where we pastured the burro,
-while we made a fifteen-mile walk up the bed of this narrow canyon!
-What a hard, hot journey it had been! A year and a half ago we sat on
-that rock, and talked of the day when we should come through here in
-boats! Even then we talked of building a raft, and of loading the
-burro on it for a spin on the flood waters. Lucky for us and for the
-burro that we didn't! We understand the temper of these waters now.
-
-Cape Desolation, a point of the Painted Desert on the west side of the
-Little Colorado, was almost directly above us, 3200 feet high. Chuar
-Butte, equally as high and with walls just as nearly perpendicular,
-extended on into the Grand Canyon on the right side, making the
-narrowest canyon of this depth that we had seen. The Navajo
-reservation terminated at the Little Colorado, although nothing but
-the maps indicated that we had passed from the land of the Red man to
-that of the White. Both were equally desolate, and equally wonderful.
-With the entrance of the new stream the canyon changes its southwest
-trend and turns directly west, and continues to hold to this general
-direction until the northwest corner of Arizona is reached.
+Then, the high water was on, and the turquoise-tinted mineral water
+of the Colorado Chiquito was backed up by the turbid flood waters of
+the Rio Colorado, forty feet or more above the present level. Now
+it was a rapid stream, throwing itself with wild abandon over the
+rocks and into the Colorado. There was the same deserted stone hut,
+built by a French prospector, many years before, and a plough that
+he had packed in over a thirty-mile trail--the most difficult one
+in all this rugged region! There was the little grass-plot where we
+pastured the burro, while we made a fifteen-mile walk up the bed of
+this narrow canyon! What a hard, hot journey it had been! A year and
+a half ago we sat on that rock, and talked of the day when we should
+come through here in boats! Even then we talked of building a raft,
+and of loading the burro on it for a spin on the flood waters. Lucky
+for us and for the burro that we didn’t! We understand the temper of
+these waters now.
+
+Cape Desolation, a point of the Painted Desert on the west side
+of the Little Colorado, was almost directly above us, 3200 feet
+high. Chuar Butte, equally as high and with walls just as nearly
+perpendicular, extended on into the Grand Canyon on the right side,
+making the narrowest canyon of this depth that we had seen. The
+Navajo reservation terminated at the Little Colorado, although
+nothing but the maps indicated that we had passed from the land of
+the Red man to that of the White. Both were equally desolate, and
+equally wonderful. With the entrance of the new stream the canyon
+changes its southwest trend and turns directly west, and continues to
+hold to this general direction until the northwest corner of Arizona
+is reached.
 
 But we must be on again! Soon familiar segregated peaks in the Grand
-Canyon began to appear. There was Wotan's Throne on the right, and the
-"Copper Mine Mesa" on the left. Three or four miles below the junction
-a four-hundred foot perpendicular wall rose above us. The burro, on
-our previous visit, was almost shoved off that cliff when the pack
-caught on a rock, and was only saved by strenuous pulling on the
-neck-rope and pack harness. Soon we passed some tunnels on both sides
-of the river where the Mormon miners had tapped a copper ledge. At
-4.15 P.M. we were at the end of the Tanner Trail, the outlet of the
-Little Colorado Trail to the rim above. It had taken seven hours of
-toil to cover the same ground we now sped over in an hour and a
-quarter. Major Powell, in 1872, found here the remnant of a very small
-hut built of mesquite logs, but whether the remains of an Indian's or
-white man's shelter cannot be stated. The trail, without doubt was
-used by the Indians before the white man invaded this region.
+Canyon began to appear. There was Wotan’s Throne on the right, and
+the “Copper Mine Mesa” on the left. Three or four miles below the
+junction a four-hundred foot perpendicular wall rose above us. The
+burro, on our previous visit, was almost shoved off that cliff when
+the pack caught on a rock, and was only saved by strenuous pulling
+on the neck-rope and pack harness. Soon we passed some tunnels on
+both sides of the river where the Mormon miners had tapped a copper
+ledge. At 4.15 P.M. we were at the end of the Tanner Trail, the
+outlet of the Little Colorado Trail to the rim above. It had taken
+seven hours of toil to cover the same ground we now sped over in an
+hour and a quarter. Major Powell, in 1872, found here the remnant
+of a very small hut built of mesquite logs, but whether the remains
+of an Indian’s or white man’s shelter cannot be stated. The trail,
+without doubt was used by the Indians before the white man invaded
+this region.
+
+  [Illustration: END OF MARBLE CANYON, FROM THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE
+  COLORADO.]
+
+  [Illustration: CATARACTS OF THE LITTLE COLORADO RIVER.]
 
 The canyon had changed again from one which was very narrow to one
 much more complex, greater, and grander. The walls on top were many
-miles apart; Comanche Point, to our left, was over 4000 feet above us;
-Desert View, Moran Point, and other points on the south rim were even
-higher. On the right we could see an arch near Cape Final on Greenland
-Point, over 5000 feet up, that we had photographed, from the top, a
-few years before. Pagoda-shaped temples--the formation so typical of
-the Grand Canyon--clustered on all sides. The upper walls were similar
-in tint to those in Marble Canyon, but here at the river was a new
-formation; the algonkian, composed of thousands of brilliantly
-coloured bands of rock, standing at an angle--the one irregularity to
-the uniform layers of rock--a remnant of thousands of feet of rock
-which once covered this region, then was planed away before the other
-deposits were placed. All about us, close to the river, was a deep,
-soft sand formed by the disintegration of the rocks above, as
-brilliantly coloured as the rocks from which they came. What had been
-a very narrow stream above here spread out over a thousand feet wide,
-ran with a good current, and seemed to be anything but a shallow
-stream at that.
+miles apart; Comanche Point, to our left, was over 4000 feet above
+us; Desert View, Moran Point, and other points on the south rim were
+even higher. On the right we could see an arch near Cape Final on
+Greenland Point, over 5000 feet up, that we had photographed, from
+the top, a few years before. Pagoda-shaped temples--the formation
+so typical of the Grand Canyon--clustered on all sides. The upper
+walls were similar in tint to those in Marble Canyon, but here at
+the river was a new formation; the algonkian, composed of thousands
+of brilliantly coloured bands of rock, standing at an angle--the one
+irregularity to the uniform layers of rock--a remnant of thousands
+of feet of rock which once covered this region, then was planed away
+before the other deposits were placed. All about us, close to the
+river, was a deep, soft sand formed by the disintegration of the
+rocks above, as brilliantly coloured as the rocks from which they
+came. What had been a very narrow stream above here spread out over
+a thousand feet wide, ran with a good current, and seemed to be
+anything but a shallow stream at that.
 
 We had travelled far that day but still sped on,--with a few rapids
-which did not retard, but rather helped us on our way, and with a good
-current between these rapids,--only stopping to camp when a
-three-hundred foot wall rose sheer from the river's edge, bringing to
-an end our basin-like river bottom, where one could walk out on either
-side. It was not necessary to hunt for driftwood this evening, for a
-thicket of mesquite--the best of all wood for a camp-fire--grew out of
-the sand-dunes, and some half-covered dead logs were unearthed from
-the drifted sand, and soon reduced to glowing coals.
+which did not retard, but rather helped us on our way, and with a
+good current between these rapids,--only stopping to camp when a
+three-hundred foot wall rose sheer from the river’s edge, bringing
+to an end our basin-like river bottom, where one could walk out on
+either side. It was not necessary to hunt for driftwood this evening,
+for a thicket of mesquite--the best of all wood for a camp-fire--grew
+out of the sand-dunes, and some half-covered dead logs were unearthed
+from the drifted sand, and soon reduced to glowing coals.
 
 Meanwhile, we were enjoying one of those remarkable Arizona desert
 sunsets. Ominous clouds had been gathering in the afternoon, rising
 from the southwest, drifting across the canyon, and piling up against
-the north wall. A few fleecy clouds in the west partially obscured the
-sun until it neared the horizon, then a shaft of sunlight broke
+the north wall. A few fleecy clouds in the west partially obscured
+the sun until it neared the horizon, then a shaft of sunlight broke
 through once more, telegraphing its approach long before it reached
 us, the rays being visibly hurled through space like a javelin, or a
 lightning bolt, striking peak after peak so that one almost imagined
 they would hear the thunder roll. A yellow flame covered the western
 sky, to be succeeded in a few minutes by a crimson glow. The sharply
 defined colours of the different layers of rock had merged and
-softened, as the sun dropped from sight; purple shadows crept into the
-cavernous depths, while shafts of gold shot to the very tiptop of the
-peaks, or threw their shadows like silhouettes on the wall beyond.
-Then the scene shifted again, and it was all blood-red, reflecting
-from the sky and staining the rocks below, so that distant wall and
-sky merged, with little to show where the one ended and the other
-began. That beautiful haze, which tints, but does not obscure,
-enshrouded the temples and spires, changing from heliotrope to
-lavender, from lavender to deepest purple; there was a departing flare
-of flame like the collapse of a burning building; a few clouds in the
-zenith, torn by the winds so that they resembled the craters of the
-moon, were tinted for an instant around the crater's rims; the clouds
-faded to a dove-like gray; they darkened; the gray disappeared; the
-purple crept from the canyon into the arched dome overhead; the day
-was ended, twilight passed, and darkness settled over all.
+softened, as the sun dropped from sight; purple shadows crept into
+the cavernous depths, while shafts of gold shot to the very tiptop
+of the peaks, or threw their shadows like silhouettes on the wall
+beyond. Then the scene shifted again, and it was all blood-red,
+reflecting from the sky and staining the rocks below, so that distant
+wall and sky merged, with little to show where the one ended and
+the other began. That beautiful haze, which tints, but does not
+obscure, enshrouded the temples and spires, changing from heliotrope
+to lavender, from lavender to deepest purple; there was a departing
+flare of flame like the collapse of a burning building; a few
+clouds in the zenith, torn by the winds so that they resembled the
+craters of the moon, were tinted for an instant around the crater’s
+rims; the clouds faded to a dove-like gray; they darkened; the gray
+disappeared; the purple crept from the canyon into the arched dome
+overhead; the day was ended, twilight passed, and darkness settled
+over all.
 
 We sat silently by the fire for a few minutes, then rose and resumed
-our evening's work. This camp was at a point that could be seen from
+our evening’s work. This camp was at a point that could be seen from
 the Grand View hotel, fourteen miles from our home. We talked of
-building a signal fire on the promontory above the camp, knowing that
-the news would be telephoned to home if the fire was seen. But we gave
-up the plan. Although less than twenty miles from Bright Angel Trail,
-we were not safely through by any means. Two boats had been wrecked or
-lost in different rapids less than six miles from this camp. The
-forty-foot fall in the Hance or Red Canyon Rapid was three miles below
-us; the Sockdologer, the Grapevine, and other rapids nearly as large
-followed those; we might be no more fortunate than the others, and a
-delay after once giving a signal would cause more anxiety than no
-signal at all we thought, and the fire was not built.
+building a signal fire on the promontory above the camp, knowing
+that the news would be telephoned to our home if the fire was seen. But
+we gave up the plan. Although less than twenty miles from Bright
+Angel Trail, we were not safely through by any means. Two boats had
+been wrecked or lost in different rapids less than six miles from
+this camp. The forty-foot fall in the Hance or Red Canyon Rapid was
+three miles below us; the Sockdologer, the Grapevine, and other
+rapids nearly as large followed those; we might be no more fortunate
+than the others, and a delay after once giving a signal would cause
+more anxiety than no signal at all we thought, and the fire was not
+built.
 
 Particular attention was paid to the loading of the boats the next
 morning. The moving-picture film was tucked in the toes of our
 sleeping bags, and the protecting bags were carefully laced. We were
 not going to take any chances in this next plunge--the much-talked-of
-entrance to the granite gorge. A half-hour's run and a dash through
-one violent rapid landed us at the end of the Hance Trail--unused for
-tourist travel for several years--with a few torn and tattered tents
-back in the side canyon down which the trail wound its way. We half
-hoped that we would find some of the prospectors who make this section
-their winter home either at the Tanner or the Hance Trail, but there
-was no sign of recent visitors at either place, unless it was the
-numerous burro tracks in the sand. These tracks were doubtless made by
-some of the many wild burros that roam all the lower plateaus in the
-upper end of the Grand Canyon.
-
-After a careful inspection of the Hance Rapid we were glad the signal
-fire was not built. It was a nasty rapid. While reading over our notes
-one evening we were amused to find that we had catalogued different
-rapids with an equal amount of fall as "good," "bad," or "nasty," the
-difference depending nearly altogether on the rocks in the rapids. The
-"good rapids" were nothing but a descent of "big water," with great
-waves,--for which we cared little, but rather enjoyed if it was not
-too cold,--and with no danger from rocks; the "bad rapids" contained
-rocks, and twisting channels, but with half a chance of getting
-through. A nasty rapid was filled with rocks, many of them so
-concealed in the foam that it was often next to impossible to tell if
-rocks were there or not, and in which there was little chance of
-running through without smashing a boat. The Hance Rapid was such a
-one.
-
-Such a complication of twisted channels and protruding rocks we had
-not seen unless it was at Hell's Half Mile. It meant a
+entrance to the granite gorge. A half-hour’s run and a dash through
+one violent rapid landed us at the end of the Hance Trail--unused
+for tourist travel for several years--with a few torn and tattered
+tents back in the side canyon down which the trail wound its way. We
+half hoped that we would find some of the prospectors who make this
+section their winter home either at the Tanner or the Hance Trail,
+but there was no sign of recent visitors at either place, unless
+it was the numerous burro tracks in the sand. These tracks were
+doubtless made by some of the many wild burros that roam all the
+lower plateaus in the upper end of the Grand Canyon.
+
+  [Illustration: END OF HANCE TRAIL. SMALL WHITE LINE IS AN INTRUSION
+  OF QUARTZ IN THE ALGONKIAN.]
+
+After a careful inspection of the Hance Rapid we were glad the
+signal fire was not built. It was a nasty rapid. While reading over
+our notes one evening we were amused to find that we had catalogued
+different rapids with an equal amount of fall as “good,” “bad,” or
+“nasty,” the difference depending nearly altogether on the rocks in
+the rapids. The “good rapids” were nothing but a descent of “big
+water,” with great waves,--for which we cared little, but rather
+enjoyed if it was not too cold,--and with no danger from rocks; the
+“bad rapids” contained rocks, and twisting channels, but with half a
+chance of getting through. A nasty rapid was filled with rocks, many
+of them so concealed in the foam that it was often next to impossible
+to tell if rocks were there or not, and in which there was little
+chance of running through without smashing a boat. The Hance Rapid
+was such a one.
+
+Such a complication of twisted channels and protruding rocks
+we had not seen unless it was at Hell’s Half Mile. It meant a
 portage--nothing less--the second since leaving that other rapid in
 Lodore. So we went to work, carrying our duffle across deep, soft
 sand-dunes, down to the middle of the rapid, where quieted for a
 hundred yards before it made the final plunge. The gathering dusk of
 evening found all material and one boat at this spot, with the other
 one at the head of the rapid, to be portaged the next day. But we did
-not portage this boat. A good night's rest, and the safeguard of a
-boat at the bottom of the plunge made it look much less dangerous, and
-five minutes after breakfast was finished, this boat was beside its
-mate, and we had a reel of film which we hoped would show just how we
-successfully ran this difficult rapid. While going over the second
-section, on the opposite side of the river, Emery was thrown out of
-his boat for an instant when the _Edith_ touched a rock in a
-twenty-five mile an hour current, similar to my first upset in the
-Soap Creek Rapid--the old story: out again; in again; on
+not portage this boat. A good night’s rest, and the safeguard of a
+boat at the bottom of the plunge made it look much less dangerous,
+and five minutes after breakfast was finished, this boat was beside
+its mate, and we had a reel of film which we hoped would show just
+how we successfully ran this difficult rapid. While going over the
+second section, on the opposite side of the river, Emery was thrown
+out of his boat for an instant when the _Edith_ touched a rock
+in a twenty-five mile an hour current, similar to my first upset
+in the Soap Creek Rapid--the old story: out again; in again; on
 again--landing in safety at the end of the rapid not one whit the
 worse for the spill.
 
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  IN THE GRANITE GORGE BELOW THE SOCKDOLOGER RAPID. EXTREME HEIGHT OF
+  WALL ABOUT FIVE THOUSAND FEET.]
+
 This rapid marks the place where the granite, or igneous rock,
 intrudes, rising at a sharp angle, sloping upward down the stream,
 reaching the height of 1300 feet about one mile below. It marks the
 end of the large deposit of algonkian. The granite, when it attains
 its highest point, is covered with a 200-foot layer of sedimentary
 rock called the tonto sandstone. The top of this formation is exposed
-by a plateau from a quarter of a mile to three miles in width, on
-either side of the granite gorge; the same walls which were found in
-Marble Canyon rise above this. The temples which are scattered through
-the canyon--equal in height, in many cases, to the walls--have their
-foundation on this plateau. These peaks contain the same stratified
-rock with a uniform thickness whether in peak or wall, with little
-displacement and little sign of violent uplift, nearly all this canyon
-being the work of erosion: 5000 feet from the rim to the river; the
-edges of six great layers of sedimentary rock laid bare and with a
-narrow 1300-foot gorge through the igneous rock below--the Grand
-Canyon of Arizona.
+by a plateau from a quarter of a mile to three miles in width,
+on either side of the granite gorge; the same walls which were
+found in Marble Canyon rise above this. The temples which are
+scattered through the canyon--equal in height, in many cases, to the
+walls--have their foundation on this plateau. These peaks contain
+the same stratified rock with a uniform thickness whether in peak or
+wall, with little displacement and little sign of violent uplift,
+nearly all this canyon being the work of erosion: 5000 feet from the
+rim to the river; the edges of six great layers of sedimentary rock
+laid bare and with a narrow 1300-foot gorge through the igneous rock
+below--the Grand Canyon of Arizona.
 
 The granite gorge seemed to us to be the one place of all others that
 we had seen on this trip that would cause one to hesitate a long time
@@ -5315,17 +5497,18 @@ Lodore or Marble Canyon, for instance. A great deal depends on the
 nerves and digestion, no doubt; and the same person would look at it
 in a different light at different times, as we found from our own
 experiences. Our digestions were in excellent condition just at that
-time, and we were nerved up by the thought that we were going "to the
-plate for a home run" if possible, yet the granite gorge had a
+time, and we were nerved up by the thought that we were going “to
+the plate for a home run” if possible, yet the granite gorge had a
 decidedly sinister look. The walls, while not sheer, were nearly so;
 they might be climbed in many places to the top of the granite; but
 the tonto sandstone wall nearly always overhangs this, breaks sheer,
 and seldom affords an outlet to the plateaus above, except where
-lateral canyons cut through. The rocks are very dark, with dikes of
-quartz, and with twisting seams of red and black granite, the great
-body of rock being made up of decomposed micaceous schists and gneiss,
-a treacherous material to climb. The entrance to this gorge is made on
-a quiet pool with no shore on either side after once well in.
+lateral canyons cut through. The rocks are very dark, with dikes
+of quartz, and with twisting seams of red and black granite, the
+great body of rock being made up of decomposed micaceous schists and
+gneiss, a treacherous material to climb. The entrance to this gorge
+is made on a quiet pool with no shore on either side after once well
+in.
 
 But several parties had been through since Major Powell made his
 initial trip, so we did not hesitate, but pushed on with the current.
@@ -5333,250 +5516,262 @@ Now we could truly say that we were going home. The Hance Rapid was
 behind us; Bright Angel Creek was about twelve miles away. Soon we
 were in the deepest part of the gorge. Great dikes and uplifts of
 jagged rocks towered above us; and up, up, up, lifted the other walls
-above that. Bissell Point, on the very top, could plainly be seen from
-our quiet pool.
-
-Then came a series of rapids quite different from the Hance Rapid, and
-many others found above. Those others were usually caused in part by
-the detritus or deposit from side canyons, which dammed the stream,
-and what might be a swift stream, with a continuous drop, was
-transformed to a succession of mill-ponds and cataracts, or rapids. In
-nearly every case, in low water such as we were travelling on, the
-deposit made a shore on which we could land and inspect the rapid from
-below. The swift water invariably makes a narrow channel if it has no
-obstruction in its way; it is the quiet stream that makes a wide
-channel. But the rapids we found this day were nearly all different.
-They were seldom caused by great deposits of rock, but appeared to be
-formed by a dike or ledge of hard rock rising from the softer
-rock--the same intrusion being sometimes found on both sides of the
-stream--forming a dam the full width of the channel, over which the
-water made a swift descent, with a long line of interference waves
-below. But for a cold wind which swept up the stream, this style of
-rapid was more to our fancy. These were "good rapids," the "best" we
-had seen. There were few rocks to avoid. Some of the rapids were
-violent, but careful handling took us past every danger. There was
-little chance to make a portage at several of these places had we
-desired to do so. We gave them but a glance from the decks of the
-boats, then dropped into them. In one instance I saw the _Edith_
-literally shoot through a wave bow first, both ends of the boat being
-visible, while her captain was buried in the foam.
+above that. Bissell Point, on the very top, could plainly be seen
+from our quiet pool.
+
+Then came a series of rapids quite different from the Hance Rapid,
+and many others found above. Those others were usually caused in
+part by the detritus or deposit from side canyons, which dammed the
+stream, and what might be a swift stream, with a continuous drop, was
+transformed to a succession of mill-ponds and cataracts, or rapids.
+In nearly every case, in low water such as we were travelling on, the
+deposit made a shore on which we could land and inspect the rapid
+from below. The swift water invariably makes a narrow channel if
+it has no obstruction in its way; it is the quiet stream that makes
+a wide channel. But the rapids we found this day were nearly all
+different. They were seldom caused by great deposits of rock, but
+appeared to be formed by a dike or ledge of hard rock rising from
+the softer rock--the same intrusion being sometimes found on both
+sides of the stream--forming a dam the full width of the channel,
+over which the water made a swift descent, with a long line of
+interference waves below. But for a cold wind which swept up the
+stream, this style of rapid was more to our fancy. These were “good
+rapids,” the “best” we had seen. There were few rocks to avoid. Some
+of the rapids were violent, but careful handling took us past every
+danger. There was little chance to make a portage at several of these
+places had we desired to do so. We gave them but a glance from the
+decks of the boats, then dropped into them. In one instance I saw the
+_Edith_ literally shoot through a wave bow first, both ends of the
+boat being visible, while her captain was buried in the foam.
 
 We had learned to discriminate by its noise, long before we could see
 a rapid, whether it was filled with rocks, or was merely a descent of
 big water. The latter, often just as impressive as the former, had a
 sullen, steady boom; the rocky rapids had the same sound, punctuated
 by another sound, like the crack of regiments of musketry. All were
-greatly magnified in sound by the narrow, echoing walls. We became so
-accustomed to this noise that we almost forgot it was there, and it
-was only after the long, quiet stretches that the noise was noticed In
-a few instances only we noticed the shattering vibration of air that
-is associated with waterfalls. Still there is noise enough in many
-rapids so that their boom can be heard several miles away from the top
-of the canyons.
-
-Guided by these sounds, and aided by our method of holding the boat in
-mid-stream, while making a reconnaissance, we were quite well aware of
-what we were likely to find before we anchored above a rapid. We were
-never fearful of being drawn into a cataract without having a chance
-to land somewhere. The water is strangely quiet, to a comparatively
-close distance above nearly all rapids. We usually tied up anywhere
-from fifty feet to a hundred yards above a drop, before inspecting it.
-If it was a "big-water" rapid, we usually looked it over standing on
-the seat in the boats, then continued. By signals with the hands, the
-one first over would guide the other, if any hidden rocks or dangerous
-channel threatened. While we did not think much about it, we usually
-noted the places where one might climb out on the plateau. Little
-could be told about the upper walls from the river.
+greatly magnified in sound by the narrow, echoing walls. We became
+so accustomed to this noise that we almost forgot it was there,
+and it was only after the long, quiet stretches that the noise was
+noticed. In a few instances only we noticed the shattering vibration
+of air that is associated with waterfalls. Still there is noise
+enough in many rapids so that their boom can be heard several miles
+away from the top of the canyons.
+
+Guided by these sounds, and aided by our method of holding the boat
+in mid-stream, while making a reconnaissance, we were quite well
+aware of what we were likely to find before we anchored above a
+rapid. We were never fearful of being drawn into a cataract without
+having a chance to land somewhere. The water is strangely quiet, to a
+comparatively close distance above nearly all rapids. We usually tied
+up anywhere from fifty feet to a hundred yards above a drop, before
+inspecting it. If it was a “big-water” rapid, we usually looked it
+over standing on the seat in the boats, then continued. By signals
+with the hands, the one first over would guide the other, if any
+hidden rocks or dangerous channel threatened. While we did not think
+much about it, we usually noted the places where one might climb out
+on the plateau. Little could be told about the upper walls from the
+river.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE RUST TRAMWAY. SPAN FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTY FEET.]
 
 A chilling wind swept up the river, penetrating our soaked garments.
 But we paid little attention to this, only pulling the harder, not
-only to keep the circulation going, but every pull of the oars put us
-that much nearer home. We never paused in our rowing until we anchored
-at 4.30 P.M. under Rust's tramway, close to the mouth of Bright Angel
-Creek. According to the United States Geological Survey there is a
-descent of 178 feet from the head of the Hance Rapid to the end of
-Bright Angel Trail one mile below the creek. We would have a very
-moderate descent in that mile. The run from the Hance Rapid had been
-made in less than five hours.
+only to keep the circulation going, but every pull of the oars
+put us that much nearer home. We never paused in our rowing until we
+anchored at 4.30 P.M. under Rust’s tramway, close to the mouth of
+Bright Angel Creek. According to the United States Geological Survey
+there is a descent of 178 feet from the head of the Hance Rapid to
+the end of Bright Angel Trail one mile below the creek. We would have
+a very moderate descent in that mile. The run from the Hance Rapid
+had been made in less than five hours.
 
 Our boats were tied in the shadow of the cage hanging from a cable
 sixty feet above. It stretched across a quiet pool, 450 feet
 across--for the river is dammed by débris from the creek below, and
-fills the channel from wall to wall. Hurriedly we made our way up to
-Rust's camp,--closed for the winter; for heavy snows would cover the
-North Rim in a few days or a few weeks at the farthest, filling the
-trails with heavy drifts and driving the cougar into the canyon where
-dogs and horses cannot follow. But the latch-string was out for us, we
-knew, had we cared to use the tents. Our signal fire was built a mile
-above the camp, at a spot that was plainly visible on a clear day from
-our home on the other side, six miles away as the crow flies. We had
-often looked at this spot, with a telescope, from the veranda of our
-studio, watching the hunting and sight-seeing parties ride up the bed
-of the stream. We rather feared the drifting clouds and mists would
-hide the fire from view, but now and then a rift appeared, and we knew
-if they were looking they could see its light. Camp No. 51 was made
-close to Bright Angel Creek, that evening, Thursday, October the 16th,
-two months and eight days from the time we had embarked on our
-journey.
+fills the channel from wall to wall. Hurriedly we made our way up
+to Rust’s camp,--closed for the winter; for heavy snows would cover
+the North Rim in a few days or a few weeks at the farthest, filling
+the trails with heavy drifts and driving the cougar into the canyon
+where dogs and horses cannot follow. But the latch-string was out
+for us, we knew, had we cared to use the tents. Our signal fire was
+built a mile above the camp, at a spot that was plainly visible on a
+clear day from our home on the other side, six miles away as the crow
+flies. We had often looked at this spot, with a telescope, from the
+veranda of our studio, watching the hunting and sight-seeing parties
+ride up the bed of the stream. We rather feared the drifting clouds
+and mists would hide the fire from view, but now and then a rift
+appeared, and we knew if they were looking they could see its light.
+Camp No. 51 was made close to Bright Angel Creek, that evening,
+Thursday, October the 16th, two months and eight days from the time
+we had embarked on our journey.
 
 Three or four hours were spent in packing our material the next
-morning, so it could be stored in a miners' tunnel, near the end of
-the trail. We would pack little of this out, as we intended to resume
-our river work in a week or ten days. A five-minute run took us over
-the rapid below Bright Angel Creek, and down to a bend in the river,
-just above the Cameron or Bright Angel Trail. Two men--guides from the
-hotel--called to us as our boats swept into view. We made a quick dash
-over the vicious little drop below the bend,--easy for our boats, but
-dangerous enough for lighter craft on account of a difficult
-whirlpool,--and were soon on shore greeting old friends. Up on the
-plateau, 1300 feet above, a trail party of tourists and guides called
-down their welcome. The stores were put in the miners' tunnel as we
-had planned, and the boats were taken above the high-water mark;
-placed in dry dock one might say.
-
-The guides had good news for us and bad news too. Emery's wife had
-been ill with appendicitis nearly all the time we were on our journey.
-We had received letters from her at every post-office excepting Lee's
-Ferry, but never a hint that all was not well. She knew it would break
-up the trip. Pretty good nerve, we thought!
+morning, so it could be stored in a miners’ tunnel, near the end
+of the trail. We would pack little of this out, as we intended to
+resume our river work in a week or ten days. A five-minute run took
+us over the rapid below Bright Angel Creek, and down to a bend in the
+river, just above the Cameron or Bright Angel Trail. Two men--guides
+from the hotel--called to us as our boats swept into view. We made
+a quick dash over the vicious little drop below the bend,--easy for
+our boats, but dangerous enough for lighter craft on account of a
+difficult whirlpool,--and were soon on shore greeting old friends. Up
+on the plateau, 1300 feet above, a trail party of tourists and guides
+called down their welcome. The stores were put in the miners’ tunnel
+as we had planned, and the boats were taken above the high-water
+mark; placed in dry dock one might say.
+
+The guides had good news for us and bad news too. Emery’s wife
+had been ill with appendicitis nearly all the time we were on our
+journey. We had received letters from her at every post-office
+excepting Lee’s Ferry, but never a hint that all was not well. She
+knew it would break up the trip. Pretty good nerve, we thought!
 
 Ragged and weary, but happy; a little lean and over-trained, but
-feeling entirely "fit,"--we commenced our seven-mile climb up the
-trail, every turn of which seemed like an old friend. When 1300 feet
-above the river, our little workshop beside a stream on the
-plateau--only used at intervals when no water can be had on top, and
-closed for three months past--gave us our first cheerless greeting.
-Although little more than a hundred feet from the trail, we did not
-stop to inspect it. Cameron's Indian Garden Camp was also closed for
-the day, and we were disappointed in a hope that we could telephone to
-our home, 3200 feet above. But the tents, under rows of waving
-cottonwoods, and surrounded by beds of blooming roses and glorious
-chrysanthemums, gave us a more cheerful welcome than our little
-building below. We only stopped to quench our thirst in the bubbling
-spring, then began the four-mile climb that would put us on top of the
-towering cliff. Soon we overtook the party we had seen on the plateau.
-Some of the tourists kindly offered us their mules, but mules were too
-slow for us, and they were soon far below us. Calls, faint at first,
-but growing louder as we advanced, came floating down from above. On
-nearing the top our younger brother Ernest, who had come on from
-Pittsburg to look after our business, came running down the trail to
-greet us. One member of a troupe of moving-picture actors, in cowboy
-garb, remarked that we "didn't look like moving-picture explorers";
-then little Edith emerged from our studio just below the head of
-Bright Angel Trail and came skipping down toward us, but stopped
-suddenly when near us, and said smilingly: "Is that my Daddy with all
-those whiskers?"
+feeling entirely “fit,”--we commenced our seven-mile climb up the
+trail, every turn of which seemed like an old friend. When 1300
+feet above the river, our little workshop beside a stream on the
+plateau--only used at intervals when no water can be had on top,
+and closed for three months past--gave us our first cheerless
+greeting. Although little more than a hundred feet from the trail,
+we did not stop to inspect it. Cameron’s Indian Garden Camp was
+also closed for the day, and we were disappointed in a hope that we
+could telephone to our home, 3200 feet above. But the tents, under
+rows of waving cottonwoods, and surrounded by beds of blooming roses
+and glorious chrysanthemums, gave us a more cheerful welcome than
+our little building below. We only stopped to quench our thirst in
+the bubbling spring, then began the four-mile climb that would put
+us on top of the towering cliff. Soon we overtook the party we had
+seen on the plateau. Some of the tourists kindly offered us their
+mules, but mules were too slow for us, and they were soon far below
+us. Calls, faint at first, but growing louder as we advanced, came
+floating down from above. On nearing the top our younger brother
+Ernest, who had come on from Pittsburg to look after our business,
+came running down the trail to greet us. One member of a troupe of
+moving-picture actors, in cowboy garb, remarked that we “didn’t look
+like moving-picture explorers”; then little Edith emerged from our
+studio just below the head of Bright Angel Trail and came skipping
+down toward us, but stopped suddenly when near us, and said smilingly:
+
+“Is that my Daddy with all those whiskers?”
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  BRIGHT ANGEL CREEK AND CANYON.]
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XX
 
-
-
 ONE MONTH LATER
 
+
 Naturally we were very impatient to know just what success we had met
 with in our photographic work. Some of the motion pictures had been
 printed and returned to us. My brother, who meanwhile had taken his
-family to Los Angeles, sent very encouraging reports regarding some of
-the films.
-
-Among the Canyon visitors who came down to inspect the results of our
-trip were Thomas Moran, the famous artist, with his daughter, Miss
-Ruth, whose interest was more than casual. Thomas Moran's name, more
-than any other, with the possible exception of Major Powell's, is to
-be associated with the Grand Canyon. It was his painting which hangs
-in the capital at Washington that first acquainted the American public
-with the wonders of the Canyon. This painting was the result of a
-journey he made with Major Powell, from Salt Lake City to the north
-side of the Canyon, thirty-eight years before. In addition he had made
-most of the cuts that illustrated Major Powell's government report;
-making his sketches on wood from photographs this expedition had taken
-with the old-fashioned wet plates that had to be coated and developed
-on the spot--wonderful photographs, which for beauty, softness, and
-detail are not excelled, and are scarcely equalled by more modern
-plates and photographic results. The only great advantage of the dry
-plates was the fact that they could catch the action of the water with
-an instantaneous exposure, where the wet plates had to have a long
-exposure and lost that action.
-
-Thomas Moran could pick up almost any picture that we made, and tell
-us at once just what section it came from and its identifying
+family to Los Angeles, sent very encouraging reports regarding some
+of the films.
+
+Among the Canyon visitors who came down to inspect the results of
+our trip were Thomas Moran, the famous artist, with his daughter,
+Miss Ruth, whose interest was more than casual. Thomas Moran’s name,
+more than any other, with the possible exception of Major Powell’s,
+is to be associated with the Grand Canyon. It was his painting which
+hangs in the capital at Washington that first acquainted the American
+public with the wonders of the Canyon. This painting was the result
+of a journey he made with Major Powell, from Salt Lake City to the
+north side of the Canyon, thirty-eight years before. In addition he
+had made most of the cuts that illustrated Major Powell’s government
+report; making his sketches on wood from photographs this expedition
+had taken with the old-fashioned wet plates that had to be coated
+and developed on the spot--wonderful photographs, which for beauty,
+softness, and detail are not excelled, and are scarcely equalled by
+more modern plates and photographic results. The only great advantage
+of the dry plates was the fact that they could catch the action of
+the water with an instantaneous exposure, where the wet plates had to
+have a long exposure and lost that action.
+
+Thomas Moran could pick up almost any picture that we made, and
+tell us at once just what section it came from and its identifying
 characteristics. His daughter, Miss Ruth, was just as much interested
-in our trip and its results. She was anxious to know when we would go
-on again and planned on making the trail trip down to the plateau to
-see us take the plunge over the first rough rapid. She was just a
-little anxious to see an upset, and asked if we could not promise that
-one would occur.
+in our trip and its results. She was anxious to know when we would
+go on again and planned on making the trail trip down to the plateau
+to see us take the plunge over the first rough rapid. She was just
+a little anxious to see an upset, and asked if we could not promise
+that one would occur.
 
 A month passed before my brother returned from Los Angeles. His wife,
-who had remained there, was in good health again, and insisted on his
-finishing the trip at once. We were just as anxious to have it
+who had remained there, was in good health again, and insisted on
+his finishing the trip at once. We were just as anxious to have it
 finished, but were not very enthusiastic about this last part on
 account of some very cold weather we had been having. On the other
 hand, we feared if the trip was not finished then it might never be
-completed. So we consoled ourselves with the thought that it was some
-warmer at the bottom than it was on top, and prepared to make the
-final plunge--350 miles to Needles, with a 1600-foot descent in the
-185 miles that remained of the Grand Canyon.
-
-A foot of snow had fallen two nights before we planned on leaving. The
-thermometer had dropped to zero, and a little below on one occasion,
-during the nights for a week past. Close to the top the trail was
-filled with drifts. The walls were white with snow down to the
-plateau, 3200 feet below; something unusual, as it seldom descends as
-snow lower than two thousand feet, but turns to rain. But a week of
-cold, cloudy weather, accompanied by hard winds, had driven all warmth
-from the canyon, allowing this snow to descend lower than usual. Under
-such conditions the damp cold in the canyon, while not registered on
-the thermometer as low as that on top, is more penetrating. Very
-little sun reaches the bottom of the inner gorge in December and
-January. It is usually a few degrees colder than the inner plateau
-above it, which is open, and does get some sun. These were the
-conditions when we returned to our boats December the 19th, 1911, and
-found a thin covering of ice on small pools near the river.
-
-Our party was enlarged by the addition of two men who were anxious for
-some river experience. One was our younger brother, Ernest. We agreed
-to take him as far as the Bass Trail, twenty-five miles below, where
-he could get out on top and return to our home. The other was a young
-man named Bert Lauzon, who wanted to make the entire trip, and we were
-glad to have him. Lauzon, although but 24 years old, had been a quartz
-miner and mining engineer for some years. Coming from the mountains of
-Colorado, he had travelled over most of the Western states, and a
-considerable part of Mexico, in his expeditions. There was no question
-in our minds about Lauzon. He was the man we needed.
-
-To offset the weight of an extra man for each boat, our supplies were
-cut to the minimum, arrangements having been made with W.W. Bass--the
-proprietor of the Bass Camps and of the Mystic Springs Trail--to have
-some provisions packed in over his trail. What provisions we took
-ourselves were packed down on two mules, and anything we could spare
-from our boats was packed out on the same animals. As we were about
-ready to leave a friendly miner said: "You can't hook fish in the
-Colorado in the winter, they won't bite nohow. You'd better take a
-couple of sticks of my giant-powder along. That will help you get 'em,
-and it may keep you from starving." Under the circumstances it seemed
-like a wise precaution and we took his giant-powder, as he had
-suggested.
-
-The river had fallen two feet below the stage on which we quit a month
-before. A scale of foot-marks on a rock wall rising from the river
-showed that the water twenty-seven feet deep at that spot. No
-measurement was made in the middle of the river channel. The current
-here between two small rapids flows at five and three-fourths miles
-per hour. The width of the stream is close to 250 feet. The high-water
-mark here is forty-five feet above the low-water stage, then the river
-spreads to five hundred feet in width, running with a swiftness and
-strength of current and whirlpool that is tremendous. The highest
-authentic measurement in a narrow channel, of which we know, is one
-made by Julius F. Stone in Marble Canyon. He recorded one spot where
-the high-water mark was 115 feet above the low-water mark. These
-figures might look large at first, but if they are compared with some
-of the floods on the Ohio River, for instance, and that stream were
-boxed in a two hundred foot channel the difference would not be great,
-we imagine.
+completed. So we consoled ourselves with the thought that it was
+some warmer at the bottom than it was on top, and prepared to make
+the final plunge--350 miles to Needles, with a 1600-foot descent in
+the 185 miles that remained of the Grand Canyon.
+
+A foot of snow had fallen two nights before we planned on leaving.
+The thermometer had dropped to zero, and a little below on one
+occasion, during the nights for a week past. Close to the top the
+trail was filled with drifts. The walls were white with snow down
+to the plateau, 3200 feet below; something unusual, as it seldom
+descends as snow lower than two thousand feet, but turns to rain. But
+a week of cold, cloudy weather, accompanied by hard winds, had driven
+all warmth from the canyon, allowing this snow to descend lower than
+usual. Under such conditions the damp cold in the canyon, while
+not registered on the thermometer as low as that on top, is more
+penetrating. Very little sun reaches the bottom of the inner gorge
+in December and January. It is usually a few degrees colder than the
+inner plateau above it, which is open, and does get some sun. These
+were the conditions when we returned to our boats December the 19th,
+1911, and found a thin covering of ice on small pools near the river.
+
+Our party was enlarged by the addition of two men who were anxious
+for some river experience. One was our younger brother, Ernest. We
+agreed to take him as far as the Bass Trail, twenty-five miles below,
+where he could get out on top and return to our home. The other was
+a young man named Bert Lauzon, who wanted to make the entire trip,
+and we were glad to have him. Lauzon, although but 24 years old, had
+been a quartz miner and mining engineer for some years. Coming from
+the mountains of Colorado, he had travelled over most of the Western
+states, and a considerable part of Mexico, in his expeditions. There
+was no question in our minds about Lauzon. He was the man we needed.
+
+To offset the weight of an extra man for each boat, our supplies
+were cut to the minimum, arrangements having been made with W. W.
+Bass--the proprietor of the Bass Camps and of the Mystic Springs
+Trail--to have some provisions packed in over his trail. What
+provisions we took ourselves were packed down on two mules, and
+anything we could spare from our boats was packed out on the same
+animals. As we were about ready to leave a friendly miner said: “You
+can’t hook fish in the Colorado in the winter, they won’t bite nohow.
+You’d better take a couple of sticks of my giant-powder along. That
+will help you get ’em, and it may keep you from starving.” Under
+the circumstances it seemed like a wise precaution and we took his
+giant-powder, as he had suggested.
+
+  [Illustration: LEAVING HOME, DEC. 19, 1911.]
+
+  [Illustration: A COMPOSITE PHOTOGRAPH OF MARBLE CANYON WALLS AND A
+  GRAND CANYON RAPID.]
+
+The river had fallen two feet below the stage on which we quit a
+month before. A scale of foot-marks on a rock wall rising from the
+river showed that the water was twenty-seven feet deep at that
+spot. No measurement was made in the middle of the river channel. The
+current here between two small rapids flows at five and three-fourths
+miles per hour. The width of the stream is close to 250 feet. The
+high-water mark here is forty-five feet above the low-water stage,
+then the river spreads to five hundred feet in width, running with a
+swiftness and strength of current and whirlpool that is tremendous.
+The highest authentic measurement in a narrow channel, of which we
+know, is one made by Julius F. Stone in Marble Canyon. He recorded
+one spot where the high-water mark was 115 feet above the low-water
+mark. These figures might look large at first, but if they are
+compared with some of the floods on the Ohio River, for instance, and
+that stream were boxed in a two hundred foot channel the difference
+would not be great, we imagine.
 
 One of the young men who greeted us when we landed came down with a
 companion to see us embark. On the plateau 1300 feet above, looking
@@ -5584,36 +5779,36 @@ like small insects against the sky-line, was a trail party, equally
 interested. They did not stand on the point usually visited by such
 parties but had gone to a point about a mile to the west, where they
 had a good view of a short, rough rapid, the little rapid below the
-trail, while it was no place that one would care to swim in, had no
-comparison with this other rapid in violence. We had promised the
-party that we would run this rapid that afternoon, so we spent little
-time in packing systematically, but hurriedly threw the stuff in and
-embarked. Less than an hour later we had made the two-mile run and the
-dash through the short rapid, to the entire satisfaction of all
-concerned.
-
-We camped a short distance below the rapid, just opposite a grave of a
-man whose skeleton had been found halfway up the granite, five years
-before. Judging by his clothes and hob-nailed shoes he was a
+trail, while it was no place that one would care to swim in, had
+no comparison with this other rapid in violence. We had promised
+the party that we would run this rapid that afternoon, so we spent
+little time in packing systematically, but hurriedly threw the stuff
+in and embarked. Less than an hour later we had made the two-mile run
+and the dash through the short rapid, to the entire satisfaction of
+all concerned.
+
+We camped a short distance below the rapid, just opposite a grave
+of a man whose skeleton had been found halfway up the granite, five
+years before. Judging by his clothes and hob-nailed shoes he was a
 prospector. He was lying in a natural position, with his head resting
-on a rock. An overcoat was buttoned tightly about him. No large bones
-were broken, but he might have had a fall and been injured internally.
-More likely he became sick and died. The small bones of the hands and
-feet had been taken away by field-mice, and no doubt the
-turkey-buzzards had stripped the flesh. His pockets contained Los
-Angeles newspapers of 1900; he was found in 1906. The pockets also
-contained a pipe and a pocket-knife, but nothing by which he could be
-identified. The coroner's jury--of which my brother was a
+on a rock. An overcoat was buttoned tightly about him. No large
+bones were broken, but he might have had a fall and been injured
+internally. More likely he became sick and died. The small bones of
+the hands and feet had been taken away by field-mice, and no doubt
+the turkey-buzzards had stripped the flesh. His pockets contained
+Los Angeles newspapers of 1900; he was found in 1906. The pockets
+also contained a pipe and a pocket-knife, but nothing by which he
+could be identified. The coroner’s jury--of which my brother was a
 member--buried him where he was found, covering the body with rocks,
 for there was no earth.
 
 Such finds are not unusual in this rugged country. These prospectors
 seldom say where they are going, no track is kept of their movements,
 and unless something about their clothes tells who they are, their
-identity is seldom established. The proximity of this grave made us
-wonder how many more such unburied bodies there were along this river.
-We thought too of our friend Smith, back in Cataract Canyon, and
-wondered if we would hear from him again.
+identity is seldom established. The proximity of this grave made
+us wonder how many more such unburied bodies there were along this
+river. We thought too of our friend Smith, back in Cataract Canyon,
+and wondered if we would hear from him again.
 
 Our helpers got a lot of experience in motion-picture making the next
 day, while we ran our boats through a number of good, strong rapids,
@@ -5621,58 +5816,62 @@ well known locally as the Salt Creek Rapid, Granite Falls or Monument
 Rapid, the Hermit, the Bouchere, and others. This was all new to the
 boys, and provided some thrilling entertainment for them. When a
 difficult passage was safely made Bert would wave his hat and yell
-"Hoo" in a deep, long call that would carry above the roar of the
+“Hoo” in a deep, long call that would carry above the roar of the
 rapids, then he and Ernest would follow along the shore with their
-cameras, as these rapids all had a shore on one side or the other. The
-sun shone on the river this day, and we congratulated ourselves on
-having made the most of our opportunities.
+cameras, as these rapids all had a shore on one side or the other.
+The sun shone on the river this day, and we congratulated ourselves
+on having made the most of our opportunities.
 
 In our first rapid the next morning, we had to carry our passengers
 whether we wanted to or not. There was no shore on either side. In
 such plunges they would lie down on the deck of the boat behind the
-oarsman, holding to the raised bulkhead, ducking their heads when an
-oncoming wave prepared to break over them. Then they would shake
+oarsman, holding to the raised bulkhead, ducking their heads when
+an oncoming wave prepared to break over them. Then they would shake
 themselves as a water-spaniel does, and Bert with a grin would say,
-"Young fellows, business is picking up!"
 
-Ernest agreed, too, that he had never seen anything in Pittsburg that
-quite equalled it. If the rapid was not bad, they sat upright on the
-deck, but this made the boats top-heavy, and as much of the oarsman's
-work depended on swinging his weight from side to side, it was
-important that no mistake should be made about this distribution of
-weight. Often the bottom of a boat would show above the water as it
-listed to one side. At such a time a person sitting on the raised deck
-might get thrown overboard.
+“Young fellows, business is picking up!”
+
+Ernest agreed, too, that he had never seen anything in Pittsburg
+that quite equalled it. If the rapid was not bad, they sat upright
+on the deck, but this made the boats top-heavy, and as much of the
+oarsman’s work depended on swinging his weight from side to side, it
+was important that no mistake should be made about this distribution
+of weight. Often the bottom of a boat would show above the water as
+it listed to one side. At such a time a person sitting on the raised
+deck might get thrown overboard.
 
 Before starting on this last trip we had thought it would be only
-right to give our younger brother a ride in a rapid that would be sure
-to give him a good ducking, as his experience was going to be short.
-But the water and the wind, especially in the shadows, was so very
-cold that we gave this plan up, and avoided the waves as much as
+right to give our younger brother a ride in a rapid that would be
+sure to give him a good ducking, as his experience was going to be
+short. But the water and the wind, especially in the shadows, was so
+very cold that we gave this plan up, and avoided the waves as much as
 possible. He got a ducking this morning, however, in a place where we
 least expected it. It was not a rapid, just smooth, very swift water,
 while close to the right shore there was one submerged rock with a
-foot of water shooting over it, in such a way that it made a "reverse
-whirl" as they are called in Alaska--water rolling back upstream, and
+foot of water shooting over it, in such a way that it made a “reverse
+whirl” as they are called in Alaska--water rolling back upstream, and
 from all sides as well, to fill the vacuum just below the rock. This
 one was about twelve feet across; the water disappeared as though it
 was being poured down a manhole.
 
-The least care, or caution, would have taken me clear this place; but
-the smooth water was so deceptive, and was so much stronger than I had
-judged it to be, that I found myself caught sideways to the current,
-hemmed in with waves on all sides of the boat, knocked back and forth,
-and resisted in all my efforts to pull clear. The boat was gradually
-filling with the splashing water. Ernest was lying on the deck,
-hanging on like grim death, slipping off, first on one side, then on
-the other, and wondering what was going to happen. So was I. To be
-held up in the middle of a swift stream was a new experience, and I
-was not proud of it. The others passed as soon as they saw what had
-happened, and were waiting in an eddy below. Perhaps we were there
-only one minute, but it seemed like five. I helped Ernest into the
-cockpit. About that time the boat filled with splashing water and sunk
-low, the stream poured over the rock and into the boat, and she upset
-instantly.
+  [Illustration: THE “EDITH” (ON LEFT OF CENTRAL ROCK) IN GRANITE
+  FALLS.]
+
+The least care, or caution, would have taken me clear this place;
+but the smooth water was so deceptive, and was so much stronger than
+I had judged it to be, that I found myself caught sideways to the
+current, hemmed in with waves on all sides of the boat, knocked back
+and forth, and resisted in all my efforts to pull clear. The boat was
+gradually filling with the splashing water. Ernest was lying on the
+deck, hanging on like grim death, slipping off, first on one side,
+then on the other, and wondering what was going to happen. So was I.
+To be held up in the middle of a swift stream was a new experience,
+and I was not proud of it. The others passed as soon as they saw what
+had happened, and were waiting in an eddy below. Perhaps we were
+there only one minute, but it seemed like five. I helped Ernest into
+the cockpit. About that time the boat filled with splashing water and
+sunk low, the stream poured over the rock and into the boat, and she
+upset instantly.
 
 Ernest had on two life-preservers, and came up about thirty feet
 below, swimming very well considering that he was weighted with heavy
@@ -5680,176 +5879,187 @@ clothes and high-topped shoes. The boys pulled him in before he was
 carried against a threatening wall. Meanwhile, I held to the boat,
 which was forced out as soon as she was overturned, and climbed on
 top, or rather on the bottom. I was trying to make the best of things
-and was giving a cheer when some one said, "There goes your hatch
-cover and you've lost the motion-picture camera."
+and was giving a cheer when some one said,
+
+“There goes your hatch cover and you’ve lost the motion-picture
+camera.”
 
 Perhaps I had. My cheering ceased. The camera had been hurriedly
 shoved down in the hatch a few minutes before.
 
 On being towed to shore, however, we found the camera had not fallen
 out. It had been shoved to the side less than one inch, but that
-little bit had saved it. It was filled with water, though, and all the
-pictures were on the unfinished roll in the camera, and were ruined.
-We had been in the ice-cold water long enough to lose that glow which
-comes after a quick immersion and were chilled through; but what
-bothered me more than anything else was the fact that I had been
-caught in such a trap after successfully running the bad rapids above.
-We made a short run after that so as to get out of sight of the
-deceptive place, then proceeded to dry out. The ruined film came in
-handy for kindling our camp-fire.
+little bit had saved it. It was filled with water, though, and all
+the pictures were on the unfinished roll in the camera, and were
+ruined. We had been in the ice-cold water long enough to lose that
+glow which comes after a quick immersion and were chilled through;
+but what bothered me more than anything else was the fact that I had
+been caught in such a trap after successfully running the bad rapids
+above. We made a short run after that so as to get out of sight of
+the deceptive place, then proceeded to dry out. The ruined film came
+in handy for kindling our camp-fire.
 
 We were now in the narrowest part of the upper portion of the Grand
-Canyon, the distance from rim to rim at one point being close to six
-miles. The width at Bright Angel varied from eight to fourteen miles.
-The peaks rising from the plateau, often as high as the canyon walls,
-and with flat tops a mile or more in width, made the canyon even
-narrower, so that at times we were in canyons close to a mile in
+Canyon, the distance from rim to rim at one point being close to
+six miles. The width at Bright Angel varied from eight to fourteen
+miles. The peaks rising from the plateau, often as high as the canyon
+walls, and with flat tops a mile or more in width, made the canyon
+even narrower, so that at times we were in canyons close to a mile in
 depth, and little over four miles across at the tops.
 
 In this section of the granite there were few places where one could
-climb out. Nearly all the lateral canyons ended quite a distance above
-the river, then fell sheer; the lower parts of the walls were quite
-often smooth-surfaced, where they were polished by the sands in the
-stream. The black granite in such cases resembled huge deposits of
-anthracite coal. Sections of the granite often projected out of the
-water as islands, with the softer rock washed away, the granite being
-curiously carved by whirling rocks and the emery-like sands. Holes
-three and four feet deep were worn by small whirling rocks, and
+climb out. Nearly all the lateral canyons ended quite a distance
+above the river, then fell sheer; the lower parts of the walls were
+quite often smooth-surfaced, where they were polished by the sands in
+the stream. The black granite in such cases resembled huge deposits
+of anthracite coal. Sections of the granite often projected out of
+the water as islands, with the softer rock washed away, the granite
+being curiously carved by whirling rocks and the emery-like sands.
+Holes three and four feet deep were worn by small whirling rocks, and
 grooves were worn at one place by growing willows working back and
 forth in the water, the sand, strange to say, having less effect on
 the limbs than it had on the hard rocks.
 
 About noon of the day following this upset we reached the end of the
 Bass Trail and another cable crossing, about sixty feet above the
-water. Three men were waiting for us, and gave a call when we rowed in
-sight of their camp. One was Lauzon's brother, another was Cecil Dodd,
-a cowboy who looked after Bass' stock, and the breaking of his horses,
-the third was John Norberg, an "old timer" and an old friend as well,
-engaged at that time in working some asbestos and copper claims.
+water. Three men were waiting for us, and gave a call when we rowed
+in sight of their camp. One was Lauzon’s brother, another was Cecil
+Dodd, a cowboy who looked after Bass’ stock, and the breaking of his
+horses, the third was John Norberg, an “old timer” and an old friend
+as well, engaged at that time in working some asbestos and copper
+claims.
 
 The granite was broken down at this point, and another small deposit
 of algonkian was found here. There were intrusions, faults, and
-displacements both in these formations and in the layers above. These
-fractures exposed mineral seams and deposits of copper and asbestos on
-both sides of the river, some of which Bass had opened up and located,
-waiting for the day when there would be better transportation
-facilities than his burros afforded.
+displacements both in these formations and in the layers above.
+These fractures exposed mineral seams and deposits of copper and
+asbestos on both sides of the river, some of which Bass had opened
+up and located, waiting for the day when there would be better
+transportation facilities than his burros afforded.
 
 This was not our first visit to this section. On other occasions we
-had descended by the Mystic Spring (or Bass) Trail, on the south side,
-crossed on the tramway and were taken by Bass over some of his many
-trails, on the north side. We had visited the asbestos claims, where
-the edge of a blanket formation of the rock known as serpentine,
-containing the asbestos, lay exposed to view, twisting around the head
-of narrow canyons, and under beetling cliffs. We went halfway up the
-north rim trail, through Shinumo and White canyons, our objective
-point on these trips being a narrow box canyon which contained a large
-boulder, rolled from the walls above, and wedged in the flume-like
-gorge far above our heads. This trail continues up to the top, going
-over the narrow neck which connects Powell's Plateau--a segregated
-section of thickly wooded surface several miles in extent--with the
-main extent of the Kaibab Plateau.
+had descended by the Mystic Spring (or Bass) Trail, on the south
+side, crossed on the tramway and were taken by Bass over some of
+his many trails, on the north side. We had visited the asbestos
+claims, where the edge of a blanket formation of the rock known as
+serpentine, containing the asbestos, lay exposed to view, twisting
+around the head of narrow canyons, and under beetling cliffs. We went
+halfway up the north rim trail, through Shinumo and White canyons,
+our objective point on these trips being a narrow box canyon which
+contained a large boulder, rolled from the walls above, and wedged
+in the flume-like gorge far above our heads. This trail continues
+up to the top, going over the narrow neck which connects Powell’s
+Plateau--a segregated section of thickly wooded surface several miles
+in extent--with the main extent of the Kaibab Plateau.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  ROUGH WATER IN HERMIT CREEK RAPID. HEIGHT OF DISTANT WAVE ABOUT
+  FIFTEEN FEET.]
 
 Ernest, though slightly affected with tonsillitis, was loath to leave
 us here. It was zero weather on top, we were told, and it looked it.
-The walls and peaks were white with snow. He would not have an easy
-trip. The drifted snow was only broken by the one party that we found
-at the river, and quite likely it would be very late when he arrived
-at the ranch. John went up with him a few miles to get a horse for the
-ride home the next day. Ernest took with him a few hurriedly written
-letters and the exposed plates. The film we were going to save was
-lost in the upset.
-
-On inspecting the provisions which were packed in here we found the
-grocers had shipped the order short, omitting, besides other
+The walls and peaks were white with snow. He would not have an
+easy trip. The drifted snow was only broken by the one party that
+we found at the river, and quite likely it would be very late when
+he arrived at the ranch. John went up with him a few miles to get
+a horse for the ride home the next day. Ernest took with him a few
+hurriedly written letters and the exposed plates. The film we were
+going to save was lost in the upset.
+
+On inspecting the provisions which were packed in here we found
+the grocers had shipped the order short, omitting, besides other
 necessities, some canned baked beans, on which we depended a great
 deal. This meant one of two things. We would have to make a quicker
 run than we had planned on, or would have to get out of the canyon at
 one of the two places where such an exit could easily be made.
 
 The M. P. as our motion-picture camera was called--and which was
-re-christened but not abbreviated by Bert, as "The Member of
-Parliament"--had to be cleaned before we could proceed. It took all
+re-christened but not abbreviated by Bert, as “The Member of
+Parliament”--had to be cleaned before we could proceed. It took all
 this day, and much of the next, to get the moisture and sand out of
 the delicate mechanism, and have it running smoothly again. After it
-was once more in good condition Emery announced that he wanted to work
-out a few scenes of an uncompleted "movie-drama." The action was
+was once more in good condition Emery announced that he wanted to
+work out a few scenes of an uncompleted “movie-drama.” The action was
 snappy. The plot was brief, but harmonized well with the setting, and
-the "props." Dodd, who was a big Texan, was cast for the role of horse
-thief and bad man in general. Bert's brother, Morris Lauzon, was the
-deputy sheriff, and had a star cut from the top of a tomato can to
-prove it. John was to be a prospector. He would need little rehearsing
-for this part. In addition, he had not been out where he could have
-the services of a barber for six months past, which was all the
-better. John had a kind, quiet, easy-going way that made friends for
-him on sight. He was not consulted about the part he was to play, but
-we counted on his good nature and he was cast for the part. Emery, who
-was cast for the part of a mining engineer, arrived on the scene in
-his boat, after rounding the bend above the camp, tied up and climbed
-out over the cliffs to view the surrounding country.
-
-The hidden desperado, knowing that he was being hunted, stole the boat
-with its contents, and made his escape. The returning engineer arrived
-just in time to see his boat in the middle of the stream, and a
-levelled rifle halted him until the boat was hidden around the bend.
-At that moment the officer joined him, and a hurried consultation was
-held. Then the other boat, which had been separated from its
-companion, pulled into sight, and I was hailed by the men on shore.
-They came aboard and we gave chase. Could anything be better? The
-thief naturally thought he was safe, as he had not seen the second
-boat! After going over a few rapids, he saw a fire up in the cliffs,
-on the opposite side of the river. He landed, and climbed up to the
-camp where John was at work. John shared his camp fare with him, and
-directed him to a hidden trail. The pursuers, on finding the abandoned
-boat, quietly followed the trail, and surprised Dodd in John's camp.
-He was disarmed and sent across the river in the tramway, accompanied
-by the deputy, and was punished as he richly deserved to be.
+the “props.” Dodd, who was a big Texan, was cast for the role of
+horse thief and bad man in general. Bert’s brother, Morris Lauzon,
+was the deputy sheriff, and had a star cut from the top of a tomato
+can to prove it. John was to be a prospector. He would need little
+rehearsing for this part. In addition, he had not been out where he
+could have the services of a barber for six months past, which was
+all the better. John had a kind, quiet, easy-going way that made
+friends for him on sight. He was not consulted about the part he was
+to play, but we counted on his good nature and he was cast for the
+part. Emery, who was cast for the part of a mining engineer, arrived
+on the scene in his boat, after rounding the bend above the camp,
+tied up and climbed out over the cliffs to view the surrounding
+country.
+
+The hidden desperado, knowing that he was being hunted, stole the
+boat with its contents, and made his escape. The returning engineer
+arrived just in time to see his boat in the middle of the stream,
+and a levelled rifle halted him until the boat was hidden around
+the bend. At that moment the officer joined him, and a hurried
+consultation was held. Then the other boat, which had been separated
+from its companion, pulled into sight, and I was hailed by the men on
+shore. They came aboard and we gave chase. Could anything be better?
+The thief naturally thought he was safe, as he had not seen the
+second boat! After going over a few rapids, he saw a fire up in the
+cliffs, on the opposite side of the river. He landed, and climbed up
+to the camp where John was at work. John shared his camp fare with
+him, and directed him to a hidden trail. The pursuers, on finding
+the abandoned boat, quietly followed the trail, and surprised Dodd
+in John’s camp. He was disarmed and sent across the river in the
+tramway, accompanied by the deputy, and was punished as he richly
+deserved to be.
 
 This was the scenario. Bert handled the camera. Emery was the
 playwright, director, and producer. All rights reserved.
 
 Everything worked beautifully. The film did not get balled up in the
-cogs, as sometimes happened. The light was good. Belasco himself could
-not have improved on the stage-setting. The trail led over the
-wildest, and most picturesque places imaginable. Dodd made a splendid
-desperado, and acted as if he had done nothing but steal horses and
-dodge the officers all his life. A pile of driftwood fifty feet high
-and with a tunnel underneath made a splendid hiding place for him
-while the first boat was being tied. Being a cowpuncher, it may be
-that he did not handle the oars as well as an experienced riverman,
-but any rapid could be used for an insert. The deputy, though
-youthful, was determined and never lost sight of the trail. The
-engineer acted his part well and registered surprise and anger, when
-he found how he had been tricked. John, who had returned, humoured us,
-and dug nuggets of gold out of limestone rocks, where no one would
-have thought of looking for them. The fact that the tramway scene was
-made before any of the others did not matter. We could play our last
-act first if we wanted to. All we had to do was to cut the film and
-fasten it on to the end. Emery was justly proud of his first efforts
-as a producer. We were sorry this film had not been sent out with
-Ernest.
+cogs, as sometimes happened. The light was good. Belasco himself
+could not have improved on the stage-setting. The trail led over
+the wildest, and most picturesque places imaginable. Dodd made a
+splendid desperado, and acted as if he had done nothing but steal
+horses and dodge the officers all his life. A pile of driftwood fifty
+feet high and with a tunnel underneath made a splendid hiding place
+for him while the first boat was being tied. Being a cowpuncher, it
+may be that he did not handle the oars as well as an experienced
+river-man, but any rapid could be used for an insert. The deputy,
+though youthful, was determined and never lost sight of the trail.
+The engineer acted his part well and registered surprise and anger,
+when he found how he had been tricked. John, who had returned,
+humoured us, and dug nuggets of gold out of limestone rocks, where no
+one would have thought of looking for them. The fact that the tramway
+scene was made before any of the others did not matter. We could play
+our last act first if we wanted to. All we had to do was to cut the
+film and fasten it on to the end. Emery was justly proud of his first
+efforts as a producer. We were sorry this film had not been sent out
+with Ernest.
 
 This thrilling drama will not be released in the near future. One day
 later we found that a drop of water had worked into the lens cell at
-the last upset. This fogged the lens. We focussed with a scale and had
-overlooked the lens when cleaning the camera. Nothing but a very faint
-outline showed on the film. We had all the film we needed for a week
-after this, for kindling our fires.
-
+the last upset. This fogged the lens. We focussed with a scale and
+had overlooked the lens when cleaning the camera. Nothing but a very
+faint outline showed on the film. We had all the film we needed for a
+week after this, for kindling our fires.
 
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  TYPE OF RAPID IN THE GRANITE. NEAR BASS TRAIL.]
 
 
-CHAPTER XXI
 
 
+CHAPTER XXI
 
 WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT
 
+
 In recording our various mishaps and upsets in these pages, it may
 seem to the reader as if I have given undue prominence to the part I
 took in them. If so, it has not been from choice, but because they
-happened in that way. No doubt a great deal of my trouble was due to
-carelessness. After I had learned to row my boat fairly well I
+happened in that way. No doubt a great deal of my trouble was due
+to carelessness. After I had learned to row my boat fairly well I
 sometimes took chances that proved to be anything but advisable,
 depending a good deal on luck, and luck was not always with me. My
 brother was less hasty in making his decisions, and was more careful
@@ -5857,158 +6067,152 @@ in his movements, with the result that his boat had few marks of any
 kind, and he had been more fortunate than I with the rapids.
 
 It is my duty to record another adventure at this point, in which we
-all three shared, each in a different manner. This time I am going to
-give my brother's record of the happenings that overtook us about four
-o'clock in the afternoon of December the 24th, less than three hours
-after we left our friends at the Bass Trail with "best wishes for a
-Merry Christmas," and had received instructions from John "to keep our
-feet dry"
-
-My brother's account follows:
-
-     "The fourth rapid below the Bass Trail was bad, but after
-     looking it over we decided it could be run. We had taken
-     chances in rapids that looked worse and came through
-     unharmed; if we were successful here, it would be over in a
-     few minutes, and forgotten an hour later. So we each made
-     the attempt."
-
-     "Lauzon had gone near the lower end of the rapid, taking the
-     left shore, for a sixty-foot wall with a sloping bench on
-     top rose sheer out of the water on the right. The only shore
-     on the right was close to the head of the rapid, a small
-     deposit or bank of earth and rock. The inner gorge here was
-     about nine hundred feet deep."
-
-     "Ellsworth went first, taking the left-hand side. I picked
-     out a course on the right as being the least dangerous; but
-     I was scarcely started when I found myself on a nest of
-     jagged rocks, with violent water all about me, and with
-     other rocks, some of them submerged, below me. I climbed out
-     on the rocks and held the boat."
-
-     "If the others could land below the rapid and climb back,
-     they might get a rope to me and pull me off the rocks far
-     enough to give me a new start, but they could not pull the
-     boat in to shore through the rough water. A person thinks
-     quickly under such circumstances, I had it all figured out
-     as soon as I was on the rocks. The greatest trouble would be
-     to hold the boat if she broke loose."
-
-     "Then I saw that the _Defiance_ was in trouble. She caught
-     in a reverse whirl in the very middle of the pounding rapid,
-     bouncing back and forth like a great rubber ball. Finally
-     she filled with the splashing water, sank low, and the water
-     pouring over the rock caught the edge of the twelve-hundred
-     pound boat and turned her over as if she were a toy; my
-     brother was holding to the gunwale when she turned. Still
-     she was held in the whirl, jumping as violently as ever,
-     then turned upright again and was forced out. Ellsworth had
-     disappeared, but came up nearly a hundred feet below,
-     struggling to keep on top but going down with every breaking
-     wave. When the quieter water was reached, he did not seem to
-     have strength enough to swim out, but floated, motionless,
-     in a standing position, his head kept up by the
-     life-preservers. The next rapid was not over fifty yards
-     below. If he was to be saved it must be done instantly."
-
-     "I pried the boat loose, jumped in as she swung clear, and
-     pulled with all my might, headed toward the centre of the
-     river. I was almost clear when I was drawn over a dip, bow
-     first, and struck a glancing blow against another rock I had
-     never seen. There was a crash, and the boards broke like
-     egg-shells. It was all done in a few moments. The _Edith_
-     was a wreck, I did not know how bad. My brother had
-     disappeared. Lauzon was frantically climbing over some large
-     boulders trying to reach the head of the next rapid, where
-     the boat was held in an eddy. My boat was not upset, but the
-     waves were surging through a great hole in her side. She was
-     drawn into an eddy, close to the base of the wall, where I
-     could tie up and climb out. It seemed folly to try the lower
-     end with my filled boat. Climbing to the top of the rock, I
-     could see half a mile down the canyon, but my brother was
-     nowhere to be seen and I had no idea that he had escaped. I
-     was returning to my wrecked boat when Bert waved his arms,
-     and pointed to the head of the rapid. Going back once more,
-     I saw him directly below me at the base of the sheer rock,
-     in an opening where the wall receded. He had crawled out
-     twenty feet above the next rapid. Returning to my wrecked
-     boat, I was soon beside him. He was exhausted with his
-     struggle in the icy waves; his outer garments were frozen. I
-     soon procured blankets from my bed, removed the wet clothes,
-     and wrapped him up. Lauzon, true to our expectations of what
-     he would do when the test came, swam out and rescued the
-     _Defiance_ before she was carried over the next rapid. He
-     was inexperienced at the oars and had less than two hours
-     practice after he had joined us. It was a tense moment when
-     he started across, above the rapid. But he made it! Landing
-     with a big grin, he exclaimed, 'Young fellows, business is
-     picking up!' then added, 'And we're losing lots of good
-     pictures!'"
-
-     "These experiences were our Christmas presents that year.
-     They were not done up in small packages."
-
-     "We repaired the boat on Christmas day. Three smashed side
-     ribs were replaced with mesquite, which we found growing on
-     the walls. The hole was patched with boards from the loose
-     bottom. This was painted; canvas was tacked over that and
-     painted also, and a sheet of tin or galvanized iron went
-     over it all. This completed the repair and the _Edith_ was
-     as seaworthy as before."
-
-     This is Emery's account of the "Christmas Rapid."
-
-I will add that the freezing temperature of the water and the struggle
-for breath in the breaking waves left me exhausted and at the mercy of
-the river. An eddy drew me out of the centre of the stream when I had
-given up all hope of any escape from the next rapid. I had seen my
-brother on the rock below the head of the rapid and knew there was no
-hope from him. As I was being drawn back into the current, close to
-the end of the sheer wall on the right, my feet struck bottom on some
-débris washed down from the cliff. I made three efforts to stand but
-fell each time, and finally crawled out on my hands and knees. I had
-the peculiar sensation of seeing a rain-storm descending before my
-eyes, although I knew no such thing existed; every fibre in my body
-ached and continued to do so for days afterward; and the moment I
-would close my eyes to sleep I would see mountainous waves about me
-and would feel myself being whirled head over heels just as I was in
-that rapid; but this rapid, strange to say, while exceedingly rough
-and swift, did not contain any waves that we would have considered
-large up to this time. In other words, it depended on the
-circumstances whether it was bad or not. When standing on the shore,
-picking a channel, it appeared to be a moderately bad rapid, in which
-a person, aided with life-preservers, should have little difficulty in
-keeping on top, at least half the time. After my battle, in which, as
-far as personal effort went, I had lost, and after my providential
-escape, that one rapid appeared to be the largest of the entire
-series.
+all three shared, each in a different manner. This time I am going
+to give my brother’s record of the happenings that overtook us about
+four o’clock in the afternoon of December the 24th, less than three
+hours after we left our friends at the Bass Trail with “best wishes
+for a Merry Christmas,” and had received instructions from John “to
+keep our feet dry.”
+
+My brother’s account follows:
+
+“The fourth rapid below the Bass Trail was bad, but after looking it
+over we decided it could be run. We had taken chances in rapids that
+looked worse and came through unharmed; if we were successful here,
+it would be over in a few minutes, and forgotten an hour later. So we
+each made the attempt.”
+
+“Lauzon had gone near the lower end of the rapid, taking the left
+shore, for a sixty-foot wall with a sloping bench on top rose sheer
+out of the water on the right. The only shore on the right was close
+to the head of the rapid, a small deposit or bank of earth and rock.
+The inner gorge here was about nine hundred feet deep.”
+
+“Ellsworth went first, taking the left-hand side. I picked out a
+course on the right as being the least dangerous; but I was scarcely
+started when I found myself on a nest of jagged rocks, with violent
+water all about me, and with other rocks, some of them submerged,
+below me. I climbed out on the rocks and held the boat.”
+
+“If the others could land below the rapid and climb back, they might
+get a rope to me and pull me off the rocks far enough to give me a
+new start, but they could not pull the boat in to shore through the
+rough water. A person thinks quickly under such circumstances, I
+had it all figured out as soon as I was on the rocks. The greatest
+trouble would be to hold the boat if she broke loose.”
+
+“Then I saw that the _Defiance_ was in trouble. She caught in a
+reverse whirl in the very middle of the pounding rapid, bouncing
+back and forth like a great rubber ball. Finally she filled with
+the splashing water, sank low, and the water pouring over the rock
+caught the edge of the twelve-hundred pound boat and turned her over
+as if she were a toy; my brother was holding to the gunwale when she
+turned. Still she was held in the whirl, jumping as violently as
+ever, then turned upright again and was forced out. Ellsworth had
+disappeared, but came up nearly a hundred feet below, struggling to
+keep on top but going down with every breaking wave. When the quieter
+water was reached, he did not seem to have strength enough to swim
+out, but floated, motionless, in a standing position, his head kept
+up by the life-preservers. The next rapid was not over fifty yards
+below. If he was to be saved it must be done instantly.”
+
+“I pried the boat loose, jumped in as she swung clear, and pulled
+with all my might, headed toward the centre of the river. I was
+almost clear when I was drawn over a dip, bow first, and struck a
+glancing blow against another rock I had never seen. There was a
+crash, and the boards broke like egg-shells. It was all done in a
+few moments. The _Edith_ was a wreck, I did not know how bad. My
+brother had disappeared. Lauzon was frantically climbing over some
+large boulders trying to reach the head of the next rapid, where the
+boat was held in an eddy. My boat was not upset, but the waves were
+surging through a great hole in her side. She was drawn into an eddy,
+close to the base of the wall, where I could tie up and climb out.
+It seemed folly to try the lower end with my filled boat. Climbing
+to the top of the rock, I could see half a mile down the canyon,
+but my brother was nowhere to be seen and I had no idea that he had
+escaped. I was returning to my wrecked boat when Bert waved his arms,
+and pointed to the head of the rapid. Going back once more, I saw
+him directly below me at the base of the sheer rock, in an opening
+where the wall receded. He had crawled out twenty feet above the
+next rapid. Returning to my wrecked boat, I was soon beside him. He
+was exhausted with his struggle in the icy waves; his outer garments
+were frozen. I soon procured blankets from my bed, removed the wet
+clothes, and wrapped him up. Lauzon, true to our expectations of what
+he would do when the test came, swam out and rescued the _Defiance_
+before she was carried over the next rapid. He was inexperienced at
+the oars and had less than two hours practice after he had joined us.
+It was a tense moment when he started across, above the rapid. But he
+made it! Landing with a big grin, he exclaimed, ‘Young fellows,
+business is picking up!’ then added, ‘And we’re losing lots of good
+pictures!’”
+
+  [Illustration: THE INNER PLATEAU, THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE
+  RIVER.]
+
+  [Illustration: BERT LAUZON. ABOVE SEPARATION RAPID.]
+
+“These experiences were our Christmas presents that year. They were
+not done up in small packages.”
+
+“We repaired the boat on Christmas day. Three smashed side ribs were
+replaced with mesquite, which we found growing on the walls. The hole
+was patched with boards from the loose bottom. This was painted;
+canvas was tacked over that and painted also, and a sheet of tin or
+galvanized iron went over it all. This completed the repair and the
+_Edith_ was as seaworthy as before.”
+
+This is Emery’s account of the “Christmas Rapid.”
+
+I will add that the freezing temperature of the water and the
+struggle for breath in the breaking waves left me exhausted and at
+the mercy of the river. An eddy drew me out of the centre of the
+stream when I had given up all hope of any escape from the next
+rapid. I had seen my brother on the rock below the head of the rapid
+and knew there was no hope from him. As I was being drawn back into
+the current, close to the end of the sheer wall on the right, my
+feet struck bottom on some débris washed down from the cliff. I
+made three efforts to stand but fell each time, and finally crawled
+out on my hands and knees. I had the peculiar sensation of seeing a
+rain-storm descending before my eyes, although I knew no such thing
+existed; every fibre in my body ached and continued to do so for days
+afterward; and the moment I would close my eyes to sleep I would
+see mountainous waves about me and would feel myself being whirled
+head over heels just as I was in that rapid; but this rapid, strange
+to say, while exceedingly rough and swift, did not contain any
+waves that we would have considered large up to this time. In other
+words, it depended on the circumstances whether it was bad or not.
+When standing on the shore, picking a channel, it appeared to be a
+moderately bad rapid, in which a person, aided with life-preservers,
+should have little difficulty in keeping on top, at least half the
+time. After my battle, in which, as far as personal effort went, I
+had lost, and after my providential escape, that one rapid appeared
+to be the largest of the entire series.
 
 It is difficult to describe the rapids with the foot-rule standard,
-and give an idea of their power. One unfamiliar with "white water"
+and give an idea of their power. One unfamiliar with “white water”
 usually associates a twelve-foot descent or a ten-foot wave with a
 similar wave on the ocean. There is no comparison. The waters of the
 ocean rise and fall, the waves travel, the water itself, except in
 breakers, is comparatively still. In bad rapids the water is whirled
-through at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, in some cases much
-swifter; the surface is broken by streams shooting up from every
+through at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, in some cases
+much swifter; the surface is broken by streams shooting up from every
 submerged rock; the weight of the river is behind it, and the waves,
 instead of tumbling forward, quite as often break upstream. Such
-waves, less than six feet high, are often dangers to be shunned. After
-being overturned in them we learned their tremendous power, a power we
-would never have associated with any water, before such an experience,
-short of a waterfall.
+waves, less than six feet high, are often dangers to be shunned.
+After being overturned in them we learned their tremendous power, a
+power we would never have associated with any water, before such an
+experience, short of a waterfall.
 
 There is a certain amount of danger in the canyons,--plenty of it.
 Still, in most cases, with care and forethought, much of it can be
-avoided. We think we are safe in saying that half of the parties who
-have attempted a passage through these canyons have met with
+avoided. We think we are safe in saying that half of the parties
+who have attempted a passage through these canyons have met with
 fatalities. Most of these have occurred in Cataract Canyon, not
-because it is any worse than other sections,--certainly no worse than
-the Grand Canyon,--but because it is easily entered from the quiet,
-alluring water of the lower Green River. Without a doubt each
-successful expedition is responsible in a way for others' attempts. In
-nearly every instance the unfortunate ones have underestimated the
+because it is any worse than other sections,--certainly no worse
+than the Grand Canyon,--but because it is easily entered from the
+quiet, alluring water of the lower Green River. Without a doubt each
+successful expedition is responsible in a way for others’ attempts.
+In nearly every instance the unfortunate ones have underestimated the
 danger, and have attempted the passage with inadequate boats, such as
 Smith had for instance, undecked and without air chambers. Both of
 these are imperative for safety.
@@ -6023,45 +6227,53 @@ one, but success in other rapids made us a little reckless and ready
 to take a chance.
 
 Beyond getting our flour wet on the outside, we suffered very little
-loss to our cargo. We placed the two flour sacks beside the fires each
-evening, until the wet flour dried to a crust. We continued to use out
-of the centre of the sacks as though nothing had ever happened.
+loss to our cargo. We placed the two flour sacks beside the fires
+each evening, until the wet flour dried to a crust. We continued
+to use out of the centre of the sacks as though nothing had ever
+happened.
 
 Bert and I each had a little cough the next morning, but it
 disappeared by noon. Beyond that, we suffered no great inconvenience
-from our enforced bath. Sleeping in the open, with plenty of healthful
-exercise, kept us physically fit.
-
-The cold air and the cold water did not seem to bother the others, but
-I could not get comfortably warm during this cold snap. Added to this,
-it took me some time to get over my scare, and I could see all kinds
-of danger, in rapids, where Emery could see none. I insisted on
-untying the photographic cases from the boats, and carrying them
+from our enforced bath. Sleeping in the open, with plenty of
+healthful exercise, kept us physically fit.
+
+The cold air and the cold water did not seem to bother the others,
+but I could not get comfortably warm during this cold snap. Added to
+this, it took me some time to get over my scare, and I could see all
+kinds of danger, in rapids, where Emery could see none. I insisted
+on untying the photographic cases from the boats, and carrying them
 around a number of rapids before we ran them. It is hardly necessary
 to say that no upset occurred in these rapids.
 
-Then came a cold day, with a raw wind sweeping up the river. A coating
-of ice covered the boats and the oars. We had turned directly to the
-north along the base of Powell's plateau, and were nearing the end of
-a second granite gorge, with violent rapids and jagged rocks. Emery
-made the remark that he had not had a swim for some time. In a
-half-hour we came to a rapid with two twelve-foot waves in the centre
-of the stream, with a projecting point above that would have to be
-passed, before we could pull out of the swift-running centre. Emery
-got his swim there. I was just behind and was more fortunate. I never
-saw anything more quickly done. Before the boat was fully overturned
-he swung an oar, so that it stuck out at an angle from the side of the
-boat, and used the oar for a step; an instant later he had cut the oar
-loose, and steered toward the shore. Bert threw him a rope from the
-shore, and he was pulled in. He was wearing a thin rubber coat fitting
-tightly about his wrists, tied about his neck, and belted at the
-waist. This protected him so thoroughly that he was only wet from the
-waist down.
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE BREAK IN THE “EDITH.”]
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  MERRY CHRISTMAS! THE REPAIR WAS MADE WITH BILGE BOARDS, CANVAS,
+  PAINT, AND TIN.]
+
+Then came a cold day, with a raw wind sweeping up the river. A
+coating of ice covered the boats and the oars. We had turned directly
+to the north along the base of Powell’s plateau, and were nearing
+the end of a second granite gorge, with violent rapids and jagged
+rocks. Emery made the remark that he had not had a swim for some
+time. In a half-hour we came to a rapid with two twelve-foot waves in
+the centre of the stream, with a projecting point above that would
+have to be passed, before we could pull out of the swift-running
+centre. Emery got his swim there. I was just behind and was more
+fortunate. I never saw anything more quickly done. Before the boat
+was fully overturned he swung an oar, so that it stuck out at an
+angle from the side of the boat, and used the oar for a step; an
+instant later he had cut the oar loose, and steered toward the
+shore. Bert threw him a rope from the shore, and he was pulled in.
+He was wearing a thin rubber coat fitting tightly about his wrists,
+tied about his neck, and belted at the waist. This protected him so
+thoroughly that he was only wet from the waist down.
 
 If we were a little inclined to be proud of our record above Bright
 Angel we had forgotten all about it by this time. We were scarcely
-more than sixty miles from home and had experienced three upsets and a
-smashed boat, all in one week.
+more than sixty miles from home and had experienced three upsets and
+a smashed boat, all in one week.
 
 Just at the end of the second granite section we made our first
 portage since leaving Bright Angel. Bert and I worked on the boats,
@@ -6069,37 +6281,38 @@ while Emery cooked the evening meal.
 
 Hot rice soup, flavoured with a can of prepared meat, was easily and
 quickly prepared, and formed one of the usual dishes at these meals.
-It contained a lot of nutriment, and the rice took up but little space
-in the boats. Sometimes the meat was omitted, and raisins were
+It contained a lot of nutriment, and the rice took up but little
+space in the boats. Sometimes the meat was omitted, and raisins were
 substituted. Prepared baked beans were a staple dish, but were not in
-our supply on this last part of the trip. We often made "hot cakes"
-twice a day; an excuse for eating a great deal of butter and honey, or
-syrup. None of these things were luxuries. They were the best
+our supply on this last part of the trip. We often made “hot cakes”
+twice a day; an excuse for eating a great deal of butter and honey,
+or syrup. None of these things were luxuries. They were the best
 foodstuff we could carry. We seemed to crave sweet stuff, and used
 quantities of sugar. We could carry eggs, when packed in sawdust,
-without trouble but did not carry many. We had little meat; what we
-had was bacon, and prepared meats of the lunch variety. Cheese was our
-main substitute for meat. It was easily carried and kept well. Dried
-peaches or apricots were on the bill for nearly every meal, each day's
-allowance being cooked the evening before. We tried several condensed
-or emergency foods, but discarded them all but one, for various
-reasons. The exception was Erbeswurst, a patent dried soup
-preparation. Other prepared soups were carried also. I must not forget
-the morning cereal. It was Cream of Wheat, easily prepared; eaten--not
-served, perhaps devoured would be a better word--with sugar and
-condensed cream, as long as it lasted, then with butter. Any remainder
-from breakfast was fried for other meals. Each evening, we would make
-some baking-powder biscuit in a frying-pan. A Dutch oven is better,
-but had too much weight. The appellation for such bread is "flapjack"
-or "dough-god." When I did the baking they were fearfully and
-wonderfully made. Cocoa, which was nourishing, often took the place of
-coffee. In fact our systems craved just what was most needed to build
-up muscle and create heat. We found it was useless to try to catch
-fish after the weather became cold. The fish would not bite.
+without trouble but did not carry many. We had little meat; what
+we had was bacon, and prepared meats of the lunch variety. Cheese
+was our main substitute for meat. It was easily carried and kept
+well. Dried peaches or apricots were on the bill for nearly every
+meal, each day’s allowance being cooked the evening before. We tried
+several condensed or emergency foods, but discarded them all but one,
+for various reasons. The exception was Erbeswurst, a patent dried
+soup preparation. Other prepared soups were carried also. I must not
+forget the morning cereal. It was Cream of Wheat, easily prepared;
+eaten--not served, perhaps devoured would be a better word--with
+sugar and condensed cream, as long as it lasted, then with butter.
+Any remainder from breakfast was fried for other meals. Each evening,
+we would make some baking-powder biscuit in a frying-pan. A Dutch
+oven is better, but had too much weight. The appellation for such
+bread is “flapjack” or “dough-god.” When I did the baking they were
+fearfully and wonderfully made. Cocoa, which was nourishing, often
+took the place of coffee. In fact our systems craved just what was
+most needed to build up muscle and create heat. We found it was
+useless to try to catch fish after the weather became cold. The fish
+would not bite.
 
 On the upper end of our journey we carried no tobacco, as it happened
-that Jimmy as well as ourselves were not tobacco users. There were no
-alcoholic stimulants. When Bert joined us, a small flask, for
+that Jimmy as well as ourselves were not tobacco users. There were
+no alcoholic stimulants. When Bert joined us, a small flask, for
 medicinal purposes only, was taken along. The whiskey was scarcely
 touched at this time. Bert enjoyed a pipe after his meals, but
 continued to keep good-natured even when his tobacco got wet, so
@@ -6109,24 +6322,25 @@ Uninteresting and unromantic these things may be, but they were most
 important to us. We were only sorry the supply was not larger. While
 we never stinted ourselves, or cut the allowance of food, the amount
 was growing smaller every day, and it was not a question any more
-whether we would go out or not, to get provisions, to "rustle" as Bert
-called it, but where we would go out. We might go up Cataract Creek or
-Ha Va Su Creek, as it is sometimes called. We had been to the mouth of
-this canyon on foot, so there would be no danger of missing it. The Ha
-Va Supai Indians, about two hundred in number, lived in this lateral
-canyon about seven or eight miles from the river. An agent and a
-farmer lived with them, and might be able to sell us some provisions;
-if not, it would be fifty miles back to our home. The trail was much
-more direct than the river. The great drawback to this course was the
-fact that Ha Va Su Canyon, sheer-walled, deep, and narrow, contained a
-number of waterfalls, one of them about 175 feet high. The precipice
-over which it fell was nothing but a mineral deposit from the water,
-building higher every year. Formerly this was impassable, until some
-miners, after enlarging a sloping cave, had cut a winding stairway in
-it, which allowed a descent to be made to the bottom of the fall. A
-recent storm had remodelled all the falls in Cataract Creek Canyon,
-cutting out the travertine in some places, piling it up in others. A
-great mass of cottonwood trees were also mixed with the débris. The
+whether we would go out or not, to get provisions, to “rustle” as
+Bert called it, but where we would go out. We might go up Cataract
+Creek or Ha Va Su Creek, as it is sometimes called. We had been to
+the mouth of this canyon on foot, so there would be no danger of
+missing it. The Ha Va Supai Indians, about two hundred in number,
+lived in this lateral canyon about seven or eight miles from the
+river. An agent and a farmer lived with them, and might be able
+to sell us some provisions; if not, it would be fifty miles back
+to our home. The trail was much more direct than the river. The
+great drawback to this course was the fact that Ha Va Su Canyon,
+sheer-walled, deep, and narrow, contained a number of waterfalls,
+one of them about 175 feet high. The precipice over which it fell
+was nothing but a mineral deposit from the water, building higher
+every year. Formerly this was impassable, until some miners, after
+enlarging a sloping cave, had cut a winding stairway in it, which
+allowed a descent to be made to the bottom of the fall. A recent
+storm had remodelled all the falls in Cataract Creek Canyon, cutting
+out the travertine in some places, piling it up in others. A great
+mass of cottonwood trees were also mixed with the débris. The
 village, too, had been washed away and was then being rebuilt. We had
 been told that the tunnel was filled up, and as far as we knew no one
 had been to the river since the flood.
@@ -6134,33 +6348,39 @@ had been to the river since the flood.
 The other outlet was Diamond Creek Canyon, much farther down the
 river. We would decide when we got to Ha Va Su just what we would do.
 
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  PULLING CLEAR OF A ROCK.]
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  A SHOWER BATH.]
+
 Tapeets Creek, one mile below our camp,--a stream which has
-masqueraded under the title of Thunder River, and about which there
-has been considerable speculation,--proved to be a stream a little
-smaller than Bright Angel Creek, flowing through a narrow slot in the
-rocks, and did not fall sheer into the river, as has been reported.
-Perhaps a small cascade known as Surprise Falls which we passed the
-next day has been confused with Tapeets Creek. This stream corkscrews
-down through a narrow crevice and falls about two hundred feet, close
-to the river's edge. We are told that the upper end of Tapeets Creek
-is similar to this, but on a much larger scale.
+masqueraded under the title of Thunder River, and about which
+there has been considerable speculation,--proved to be a stream a
+little smaller than Bright Angel Creek, flowing through a narrow slot
+in the rocks, and did not fall sheer into the river, as has been
+reported. Perhaps a small cascade known as Surprise Falls which we
+passed the next day has been confused with Tapeets Creek. This stream
+corkscrews down through a narrow crevice and falls about two hundred
+feet, close to the river’s edge. We are told that the upper end of
+Tapeets Creek is similar to this, but on a much larger scale.
 
 Just opposite this fall a big mountain-sheep jumped from under an
 overhanging ledge close to the water, and stared curiously at us, as
-though he wondered what strange things those were coming down with the
-current. It is doubtful if he ever saw a human being before. This
-sight sent us scrambling in our cases for cameras and firearms; and it
-was not the game laws, but a rusted trigger on the six-shooter
+though he wondered what strange things those were coming down with
+the current. It is doubtful if he ever saw a human being before. This
+sight sent us scrambling in our cases for cameras and firearms; and
+it was not the game laws, but a rusted trigger on the six-shooter
 instead, that saved the sheep. He finally took alarm and scampered
 away over the rocks, and we had no mutton stew that night.
 
 We had one night of heavy rain, and morning revealed a little snow
 within three hundred feet of the river, while a heavy white blanket
 covered the upper cliffs. It continued to snow on top, and rained on
-us nearly all this day. Emery took this opportunity to get the drop of
-moisture out of the lens, and put the camera in such shape that we
-could proceed with our picture making. A short run was made after this
-work was completed.
+us nearly all this day. Emery took this opportunity to get the drop
+of moisture out of the lens, and put the camera in such shape that
+we could proceed with our picture making. A short run was made after
+this work was completed.
 
 The camp we were just leaving was about three miles above Kanab
 Canyon. The granite was behind us, disappearing with a steep descent
@@ -6173,82 +6393,84 @@ equally sheer; there was no plateau between. What plateau this canyon
 contained lay on top of the red sandstone. Few peaks rose above this.
 The canyon had completed its northern run and was turning back again
 to the west-southwest with a great sweep or circle. Less than an
-hour's work brought us to Kanab Canyon.
+hour’s work brought us to Kanab Canyon.
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXII
 
-
-
 SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE
 
+
 In the mud at Kanab Canyon we saw an old footprint of some person who
 had come down to the river through this narrow, gloomy gorge. It was
 here that Major Powell terminated his second voyage, on account of
-extreme high water. A picture they made showed their boats floated up
-in this side canyon. Our stage was much lower than this. F.S.
-Dellenbaugh, the author of "A Canyon Voyage," was a member of this
-second expedition. This book had been our guide down to this point; we
-could not have asked for a better one. Below here we had a general
-idea of the nature of the river, and had a set of the government maps,
-but we had neglected to provide ourselves with detailed information
-such as this volume gave us.
+extreme high water. A picture they made showed their boats floated
+up in this side canyon. Our stage was much lower than this. F. S.
+Dellenbaugh, the author of “A Canyon Voyage,” was a member of this
+second expedition. This book had been our guide down to this point;
+we could not have asked for a better one. Below here we had a general
+idea of the nature of the river, and had a set of the government
+maps, but we had neglected to provide ourselves with detailed
+information such as this volume gave us.
 
 Evening of the following day found us at Cataract Creek Canyon, but
 with a stage of water in the river nearly fifty feet lower than that
 which we had seen a few years before. The narrow entrance of this
 great canyon gives no hint of what it is like a few miles above.
-
-The Indian village is in the bottom of a 3000-foot canyon, half a mile
-wide and three miles long, covered with fertile fields, peach and
-apricot orchards. It even contained a few fig trees. Below the village
-the canyon narrowed to a hundred yards, with a level bottom, covered
-with a tangle of wild grape vines, cactus, and cottonwood trees. This
-section contained the two largest falls, and came to an end about four
-miles below the first fall. Then the canyon narrowed, deep and gloomy,
-until there was little room for anything but the powerful, rapidly
-descending stream. At the lower end it was often waist deep and
-fifteen or twenty feet wide. It was no easy task to go through this
-gorge. The stream had to be crossed several times. The canyon
-terminated in an extremely narrow gorge 2500 feet deep, dark and
-gloomy, one of the most impressive gorges we have ever seen. The main
-canyon was similar, with a few breaks on the sides, those breaks being
-ledges, or narrow sloping benches that would extend for miles, only to
-be brought to an abrupt end by side canyons. There are many
-mountain-sheep in this section, but we saw none either time. We could
-see many fresh tracks where they had followed these ledges around, and
-had gone up the narrow side canyon. It was cold in the main canyon,
-and no doubt the sheep could be found on the plateaus, which were more
-open, and would get sun when the sun shone. This plateau was 2500 feet
-above us. At the turn of the canyon we could see the other walls 2000
-feet above that. The rapids in the section just passed had been widely
-separated and compared well with those of Marble Canyon, not the worst
-we had seen, but far from being tame. There was plenty of shore room
-at each of these rapids.
+The Indian village is in the bottom of a 3000-foot canyon, half a
+mile wide and three miles long, covered with fertile fields, peach
+and apricot orchards. It even contained a few fig trees. Below the
+village the canyon narrowed to a hundred yards, with a level bottom,
+covered with a tangle of wild grape vines, cactus, and cottonwood
+trees. This section contained the two largest falls, and came to an
+end about four miles below the first fall. Then the canyon narrowed,
+deep and gloomy, until there was little room for anything but the
+powerful, rapidly descending stream. At the lower end it was often
+waist deep and fifteen or twenty feet wide. It was no easy task to
+go through this gorge. The stream had to be crossed several times.
+The canyon terminated in an extremely narrow gorge 2500 feet deep,
+dark and gloomy, one of the most impressive gorges we have ever seen.
+The main canyon was similar, with a few breaks on the sides, those
+breaks being ledges, or narrow sloping benches that would extend for
+miles, only to be brought to an abrupt end by side canyons. There are
+many mountain-sheep in this section, but we saw none either time.
+We could see many fresh tracks where they had followed these ledges
+around, and had gone up the narrow side canyon. It was cold in the
+main canyon, and no doubt the sheep could be found on the plateaus,
+which were more open, and would get sun when the sun shone. This
+plateau was 2500 feet above us. At the turn of the canyon we could
+see the other walls 2000 feet above that. The rapids in the section
+just passed had been widely separated and compared well with those of
+Marble Canyon, not the worst we had seen, but far from being tame.
+There was plenty of shore room at each of these rapids.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  GRAND CANYON AT MOUTH OF HA VA SU CANYON. MEDIUM HIGH WATER. NOTE
+  FIGURE. FRONTISPIECE SHOWS SAME PLACE IN LOW WATER.]
 
 Cactus of different species was now a feature of the scenery. The
 ocotilla or candlewood with long, lash-like stalks springing from a
 common centre--that cactus, which, when dried, needs only a lighted
-match to set it afire--flourishes in the rocky ledges. A species of
-small barrel-cactus about the size of a man's head, with fluted sides,
-or symmetrical vertical rows of small thorned lumps converging at the
-top of the "nigger-head," as they are sometimes called, grows in great
-numbers in crevices on the walls. The delicate "pin cushion" gathered
-in clusters of myriad small spiny balls. The prickly pear, here in Ha
-Va Su Canyon, were not the starved, shrivelled, mineral-tinted cactus
-such as we found at the beginning of our trip. Instead they were green
-and flourishing, with large fleshy leaves joining on to each other
-until they rise to a height of three feet or more and cover large
-patches of ground to the utter exclusion of all other growth. What a
-display of yellow and red these desert plants put forth when they are
-in bloom! A previous visit to Ha Va Su was made in the month of May
-when every group of prickly pear was a riot of pure colour. All this
-prolific growth is made possible by the extreme heat of the summer
-months aided in the case of those plants and trees which flourish in
-the fertile soil of Ha Va Su by the sub-irrigation and the spray from
-the fall.
+match to set it afire--flourishes in the rocky ledges. A species
+of small barrel-cactus about the size of a man’s head, with fluted
+sides, or symmetrical vertical rows of small thorned lumps converging
+at the top of the “nigger-head,” as they are sometimes called, grows
+in great numbers in crevices on the walls. The delicate “pin cushion”
+gathered in clusters of myriad small spiny balls. The prickly
+pear, here in Ha Va Su Canyon, were not the starved, shrivelled,
+mineral-tinted cactus such as we found at the beginning of our trip.
+Instead they were green and flourishing, with large fleshy leaves
+joining on to each other until they rise to a height of three feet
+or more and cover large patches of ground to the utter exclusion
+of all other growth. What a display of yellow and red these desert
+plants put forth when they are in bloom! A previous visit to Ha Va
+Su was made in the month of May when every group of prickly pear was
+a riot of pure colour. All this prolific growth is made possible by
+the extreme heat of the summer months aided in the case of those
+plants and trees which flourish in the fertile soil of Ha Va Su by
+the sub-irrigation and the spray from the fall.
 
 After making an inventory of our provisions we concluded not to try
 the tedious and uncertain trip up Cataract Creek. With care and good
@@ -6259,32 +6481,38 @@ walls drew closer together, so that we now had a narrow gorge hemming
 us in with 3000-foot walls from which there was no escape. They were
 about a fourth of a mile apart at the top. A boat at the foot of one
 of these walls was merely an atom. The total depth of the canyon was
-close to 4500 feet. There is nothing on earth to which this gorge can
-be compared. Storm-clouds lowered into the chasm in the early morning.
-The sky was overcast and threatening. We were travelling directly west
-again, and no sunlight entered here, even when the sun shone. The
-walls had lost their brighter reds, and what colour they had was dark
-and sombre, a dirty brown and dark green predominating. The mythology
-of the ancients, with their Inferno and their River Styx, could hardly
-conjure anything more supernatural or impressive than this gloomy
-gorge.
+close to 4500 feet. There is nothing on earth to which this gorge
+can be compared. Storm-clouds lowered into the chasm in the early
+morning. The sky was overcast and threatening. We were travelling
+directly west again, and no sunlight entered here, even when the sun
+shone. The walls had lost their brighter reds, and what colour they
+had was dark and sombre, a dirty brown and dark green predominating.
+The mythology of the ancients, with their Inferno and their River
+Styx, could hardly conjure anything more supernatural or impressive
+than this gloomy gorge.
+
+  [Illustration: NEW YEAR’S EVE WAS SPENT IN THIS SECTION, BETWEEN THE
+  HIGHEST SHEER WALLS IN THE INNER GORGE.]
+
+  [Illustration: “MORNING REVEALED A LITTLE SNOW” ON THE TOP.]
 
 There were a few bad rapids. One or two had no shore, others had an
-inclination to run under one wall and had to be run very carefully. If
-we could not get down alongside of a rapid, we could usually climb out
-on the walls at the head of the rapid and look it over from that
-vantage point. The one who climbed out would signal directions to the
-others, who would run it at once, and continue on to the next rapid.
-They would have its course figured out when the last boat arrived.
+inclination to run under one wall and had to be run very carefully.
+If we could not get down alongside of a rapid, we could usually
+climb out on the walls at the head of the rapid and look it over from
+that vantage point. The one who climbed out would signal directions
+to the others, who would run it at once, and continue on to the next
+rapid. They would have its course figured out when the last boat
+arrived.
 
 One canyon entered from the left, level on the bottom, and about one
-hundred feet wide; it might be a means of outlet from this canyon, but
-it is doubtful, for the marble has a way of ending abruptly and
+hundred feet wide; it might be a means of outlet from this canyon,
+but it is doubtful, for the marble has a way of ending abruptly and
 dropping sheer, with a polished surface that is impossible to climb.
 
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section. The camp was exceptionally
-good. A square-sided, oblong section of rock about fifty feet long had
-fallen forward from the base of the cliff. This left a cave-like
+New Year’s Eve was spent in this section. The camp was exceptionally
+good. A square-sided, oblong section of rock about fifty feet long
+had fallen forward from the base of the cliff. This left a cave-like
 opening which was closed at one end with our dark-room tent. High
 water had placed a sandy floor, now thoroughly dry, in the bottom.
 Under the circumstances we could hardly ask for anything better. Of
@@ -6295,20 +6523,20 @@ our boats. If a suitable camp was found after 3.30 P.M., we kept it,
 rather than run the risk of not finding another until after dark.
 
 Another day, January 1, 1912, brought us to the end of this gorge and
-into a wider and more open canyon, with the country above covered with
-volcanic peaks and cinder cones. Blow-holes had broken through the
-canyon walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of lava
-down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with several hundred
-feet of lava. This condition extended down the canyon for twenty miles
-or more. Judging by the amount of lava the eruption must have
-continued for a great while. Could one imagine a more wonderful
-sight--the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood from above! What
-explosions and rending of rocks there must have been when the two
-elements met. The river would be backed up for a hundred miles! Each
-would be shoved on from behind! There was no escape! They must fight
-it out until one or the other conquered. But the fire could not keep
-up forever, and, though triumphant for a period, it finally succumbed,
-and the stream proceeded to cut down to the original level.
+into a wider and more open canyon, with the country above covered
+with volcanic peaks and cinder cones. Blow-holes had broken through
+the canyon walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of
+lava down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with several
+hundred feet of lava. This condition extended down the canyon for
+twenty miles or more. Judging by the amount of lava the eruption must
+have continued for a great while. Could one imagine a more wonderful
+sight--the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood from above!
+What explosions and rending of rocks there must have been when the
+two elements met. The river would be backed up for a hundred miles!
+Each would be shoved on from behind! There was no escape! They must
+fight it out until one or the other conquered. But the fire could
+not keep up forever, and, though triumphant for a period, it finally
+succumbed, and the stream proceeded to cut down to the original level.
 
 Two miles below the first lava flow we saw what we took to be smoke
 and hurried down wondering if we would find a prospector or a cattle
@@ -6318,11 +6546,15 @@ of them making quite a stream which fell twenty feet into the river.
 Here in the river was a cataract, called Lava Falls, so filled with
 jagged pieces of the black rock that a portage was advisable. The
 weather had not moderated any in the last week, and we were in the
-water a great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks at
-the edge of the rapids. We would work in the water until numbed with
-the cold, then would go down to the warm springs and thaw out for a
-while. This was a little quicker than standing by the fire, but the
-relief was only temporary. This portage was finished the next morning.
+water a great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks
+at the edge of the rapids. We would work in the water until numbed
+with the cold, then would go down to the warm springs and thaw out
+for a while. This was a little quicker than standing by the fire, but
+the relief was only temporary. This portage was finished the next
+morning.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  LAVA FALLS: LAVA ON LEFT; WARM SPRINGS ON RIGHT.]
 
 Another portage was made this same day, and the wide canyon where
 Major Powell found some Indian gardens was passed in the afternoon.
@@ -6332,107 +6564,109 @@ for their supplies were very low, and they could not go out to a
 settlement--as we expected to do in a day or two--and replenish them.
 
 We found the fish would not bite, just as our friend, the miner, had
-said, but we did succeed in landing a fourteen-pound salmon, in one of
-the deep pools not many miles from this point, and it was served up in
-steaks the next day. If our method of securing the salmon was
+said, but we did succeed in landing a fourteen-pound salmon, in one
+of the deep pools not many miles from this point, and it was served
+up in steaks the next day. If our method of securing the salmon was
 unsportsmanlike, we excused ourselves for the methods used, just as
-Major Powell justified his appropriation of the Indians' squash. If
+Major Powell justified his appropriation of the Indians’ squash. If
 that fish was ever needed, it was then, and it was a most welcome
-addition to our rapidly disappearing stock of provisions. We were only
-sorry we had not taken more "bait."
-
-The next day we did see a camp-fire, and on climbing the shore, found
-a little old prospector, clad in tattered garments, sitting in a
-little dugout about five feet square which he had shovelled out of the
-sand. He had roofed it with mesquite and an old blanket. A rapid, just
-below, made so much noise that he did not hear us until we were before
-his door. He looked at the rubber coats and the life-preservers, then
-said, with a matter-of-fact drawl, "Well, you fellows must have come
-by the river!" After talking awhile he asked: "What do you call
-yourselves?" This question would identify him as an old-time Westerner
-if we did not already know it. At one time it was not considered
-discreet to ask any one in these parts what their name was, or where
-they were from. He gave us a great deal of information about the
-country, and said that Diamond Creek was about six miles below. He had
-come across from Diamond Creek by a trail over a thousand foot ridge,
-with a burro and a pack mule, a month before. He had just been out
-near the top on the opposite side, doing some assessment work on some
-copper claims, crossing the river on a raft, and stated that on a
-previous occasion he had been drawn over the rapid, but got out.
+addition to our rapidly disappearing stock of provisions. We were
+only sorry we had not taken more “bait.”
+
+The next day we did see a camp-fire, and on climbing the shore,
+found a little old prospector, clad in tattered garments, sitting
+in a little dugout about five feet square, which he had shovelled
+out of the sand. He had roofed it with mesquite and an old blanket.
+A rapid, just below, made so much noise that he did not hear us
+until we were before his door. He looked at the rubber coats and the
+life-preservers, then said, with a matter-of-fact drawl, “Well, you
+fellows must have come by the river!” After talking awhile he asked:
+
+“What do you call yourselves?” This question would identify him as
+an old-time Westerner if we did not already know it. At one time
+it was not considered discreet to ask any one in these parts what
+their name was, or where they were from. He gave us a great deal of
+information about the country, and said that Diamond Creek was about
+six miles below. He had come across from Diamond Creek by a trail
+over a thousand foot ridge, with a burro and a pack mule, a month
+before. He had just been out near the top on the opposite side, doing
+some assessment work on some copper claims, crossing the river on a
+raft, and stated that on a previous occasion he had been drawn over
+the rapid, but got out.
 
 When he learned that we had come through Utah, he stated that he
 belonged near Vernal, and had once been upset in the upper canyons,
 about twenty years before. He proved to be the Snyder of whom we had
 heard at Linwood, and also from the Chews, who had given him a horse
-so he could get out over the mountains. Yet here was, a thousand miles
-below, cheerful as a cricket, and sure that a few months at the most
-would bring him unlimited wealth. He asked us to "share his chuck"
-with him, but we could see nothing but a very little flour, and a
-little bacon, so pleaded haste and pushed on for Diamond Creek.
+so he could get out over the mountains. Yet here was, a thousand
+miles below, cheerful as a cricket, and sure that a few months at
+the most would bring him unlimited wealth. He asked us to “share his
+chuck” with him, but we could see nothing but a very little flour,
+and a little bacon, so pleaded haste and pushed on for Diamond Creek.
 
 The mouth of this canyon did not look unlike others we had seen in
-this section, and one could easily pass it without knowing that it ran
-back with a gentle slope for twenty miles, and that a wagon road came
-down close to the river. It contained a small, clear stream. The
+this section, and one could easily pass it without knowing that it
+ran back with a gentle slope for twenty miles, and that a wagon road
+came down close to the river. It contained a small, clear stream. The
 original tourist camp in the Grand Canyon was located up this canyon.
 We packed all our plates and films, ready to take them out. The
 supplies left in the boats when we went out the next morning were:
 
-     5 pounds of flour, partly wet and crusted.
-     2 pounds mildewed Cream of Wheat.
-     3 or 4 cans (rusty) of dried beef.
-     Less than one pound of sugar.
+  5 pounds of flour, partly wet and crusted.
+  2 pounds mildewed Cream of Wheat.
+  3 or 4 cans (rusty) of dried beef.
+  Less than one pound of sugar.
 
 We carried a lunch out with us. This was running a little too close
 for comfort.
 
 The mouth of Diamond Creek Canyon was covered with a growth of large
 mesquite trees. Cattle trails wound through this thorny thicket down
-to the river's edge. The trees thinned out a short distance back, and
-the canyon widened as it receded from the river. A half mile back from
-the river was the old slab building that had served as headquarters
-for the campers. Here the canyon divided, one containing the small
-stream heading in the high walls to the southeast; while the other
-branch ran directly south, heading near the railroad at the little
-flag-station of Peach Springs, twenty-three miles distant.
+to the river’s edge. The trees thinned out a short distance back,
+and the canyon widened as it receded from the river. A half mile
+back from the river was the old slab building that had served as
+headquarters for the campers. Here the canyon divided, one containing
+the small stream heading in the high walls to the southeast; while
+the other branch ran directly south, heading near the railroad at the
+little flag-station of Peach Springs, twenty-three miles distant.
 It was flat-bottomed, growing wider and more valley-like with every
-mile, but not especially interesting to one who had seen the glory of
-all the canyons. Floods had spoiled what had once been a very passable
-stage road, dropping 4000 feet in twenty miles, down to the very
-depths of the Grand Canyon. Some cattle, driven down by the snows,
-were sunning themselves near the building. Our appearance filled them
-with alarm, and they "high tailed it" to use a cattle man's
-expression, scampering up the rocky slopes.
-
-A deer's track was seen in a snow-drift away from the river. On the
+mile, but not especially interesting to one who had seen the glory
+of all the canyons. Floods had spoiled what had once been a very
+passable stage road, dropping 4000 feet in twenty miles, down to the
+very depths of the Grand Canyon. Some cattle, driven down by the
+snows, were sunning themselves near the building. Our appearance
+filled them with alarm, and they “high tailed it” to use a cattle
+man’s expression, scampering up the rocky slopes.
+
+A deer’s track was seen in a snow-drift away from the river. On the
 sloping walls in the more open sections of this valley grew the
-stubby-thorned chaparral. The hackberry and the first specimens of the
-palo verde were found in this vicinity. The mesquite trees seen at the
-mouth of the canyon were real trees--about the size of a large apple
-tree--not the small bushes we had seen at the Little Colorado. All the
-growth was changing as we neared the lower altitudes and the mouth of
-the Grand Canyon, being that of the hot desert, which had found this
-artery or avenue leading to the heart of the rocky plateaus and had
-pushed its way into this foreign land.
+stubby-thorned chaparral. The hackberry and the first specimens of
+the palo verde were found in this vicinity. The mesquite trees seen
+at the mouth of the canyon were real trees--about the size of a large
+apple tree--not the small bushes we had seen at the Little Colorado.
+All the growth was changing as we neared the lower altitudes and
+the mouth of the Grand Canyon, being that of the hot desert, which
+had found this artery or avenue leading to the heart of the rocky
+plateaus and had pushed its way into this foreign land.
 
 Even the animal life of the desert has followed this same road.
 Occasional Gila monsters, which are supposed to belong to the hot
-desert close to the Mexico line, have been found at Diamond Creek, and
-lizards of the Mojave Desert have been seen as far north as the foot
-of Bright Angel Trail.
+desert close to the Mexico line, have been found at Diamond Creek,
+and lizards of the Mojave Desert have been seen as far north as the
+foot of Bright Angel Trail.
 
 But we saw little animal life at this time. There were occasional
-otters disporting themselves near our boats, in one instance unafraid,
-in another raising a gray-bearded head near our boat with a startled
-look in his eyes. Then he turned and began to swim on the surface
-until our laughter caused him to dive. Tracks of the civet-cat or the
-ring-tailed cat--that large-eyed and large-eared animal, somewhat like
-a raccoon and much resembling a weasel--were often seen along the
-shores. The gray fox, the wild-cat, and the coyote, all natives of
-this land, kept to the higher piñon-covered hills. The beaver seldom
-penetrates into the deep canyons because of the lack of vegetation,
-but is found in all sections in the open country from the headwaters
-to the delta in Mexico.
+otters disporting themselves near our boats, in one instance
+unafraid, in another raising a gray-bearded head near our boat with
+a startled look in his eyes. Then he turned and began to swim on
+the surface until our laughter caused him to dive. Tracks of the
+civet-cat or the ring-tailed cat--that large-eyed and large-eared
+animal, somewhat like a raccoon and much resembling a weasel--were
+often seen along the shores. The gray fox, the wild-cat, and the
+coyote, all natives of this land, kept to the higher piñon-covered
+hills. The beaver seldom penetrates into the deep canyons because
+of the lack of vegetation, but is found in all sections in the open
+country from the headwaters to the delta in Mexico.
 
 We went out by this canyon on January the 5th, and returned Sunday,
 January the 8th, bringing enough provisions to last us to the end of
@@ -6440,99 +6674,107 @@ the big canyon. We imagined we would have no trouble getting what we
 needed in the open country below that. We sent some telegrams and
 received encouraging answers to them before returning. With us were
 two brothers, John and Will Nelson, cattle men who had given us a
-cattle man's welcome when we arrived at Peach Springs. There was no
+cattle man’s welcome when we arrived at Peach Springs. There was no
 store at Peach Springs, and they supplied us with the provisions that
-we brought back. They drove a wagon for about half the distance, then
-the roads became impassable, so they unhitched and packed their
+we brought back. They drove a wagon for about half the distance,
+then the roads became impassable, so they unhitched and packed their
 bedding and our provisions in to the river. The Nelsons were anxious
 to see us run a rapid or two.
 
-We found the nights to be just as cold on top as they ever get in this
-section--a little below zero--although the midday sun was warm enough
-to melt the snow and make it slushy. I arrived at the river with my
-feet so swollen that I had difficulty in walking, a condition brought
-on by a previous freezing they had received, being wet continually by
-the icy water in my boat--which was leaking badly since we left Bright
-Angel--and the walk out through the slush. I was glad there was little
-walking to do when once at the river, and changed my shoes for
-arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.
+We found the nights to be just as cold on top as they ever get in
+this section--a little below zero--although the midday sun was
+warm enough to melt the snow and make it slushy. I arrived at the
+river with my feet so swollen that I had difficulty in walking, a
+condition brought on by a previous freezing they had received, being
+wet continually by the icy water in my boat--which was leaking badly
+since we left Bright Angel--and the walk out through the slush. I
+was glad there was little walking to do when once at the river, and
+changed my shoes for arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.
 
 On the upper part of our trip there were occasional days when Emery
 was not feeling his best, while I had been most fortunate and had
-little complaint to make; now things seemed to be reversed. Emery, and
-Bert too, were having the time of their lives, while I was "getting
-mine" in no small doses.[6]
+little complaint to make; now things seemed to be reversed. Emery,
+and Bert too, were having the time of their lives, while I was
+“getting mine” in no small doses.[6]
+
+  [Illustration: SWIFT WATER IN TAPEETS CREEK RAPID.]
+
+  [Illustration: LAUZON, EQUIPPED WITH A LIFE PRESERVER ON A ROPE, ON
+  GUARD BELOW A RAPID.]
+
+  [Illustration: IN THE LAST GRANITE GORGE.]
 
 We had always imagined that the Grand Canyon lost its depth and
 impressiveness below Diamond Creek. We were to learn our mistake. The
 colour was missing, that was true, for the marble and sandstone walls
-were brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones of
-the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still the Grand Canyon.
-We were in the granite again--granite just as deep as any we had seen
-above, it may have been a little deeper, and in most cases it was very
-sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and sandstone rose
-above that, just as they had above Kanab Canyon. The light-coloured
-walls could not be seen.
+were brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones
+of the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still the Grand
+Canyon. We were in the granite again--granite just as deep as any we
+had seen above, it may have been a little deeper, and in most cases
+it was very sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and
+sandstone rose above that, just as they had above Kanab Canyon. The
+light-coloured walls could not be seen.
 
 Many of the rapids of this lower section were just as bad as any we
 had gone over; one or two have been considered worse by different
-parties. Two hours after leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a rapid
-that made us catch our breath. It was in two sections--the lower one
-so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat. The upper part
-fell about twenty feet we should judge and was bad enough. It was a
-question if we could run this and keep from going over the lower part!
-If we made a portage, our boats would have to be taken three or four
-hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid was too strong to
-line a boat down. We concluded to risk running the first part. Bert
-climbed to the head of the second section of the rapid, where a
-projecting point of granite narrowed the stream, and formed a quiet
-eddy just above the foaming plunge. If we could keep out of the centre
-and land here we would be safe. Our shoes were removed, our trousers
-were rolled to our knees and we removed our coats. If we had to swim
-there, we were going to be prepared. The life-preservers were well
-inflated, and tied; then we made the plunge, Emery taking the lead, I
-following close behind. Our plan was to keep as near the shore as
-possible. Once I thought it was all over when I saw the _Edith_ pulled
-directly for a rock in spite of all Emery could do to pull away.
-Nothing but a rebounding wave saved him. I went through the same
-experience. Several times we were threatened with an upset, but we
-landed in safety. The portage was short and easy. Flat granite rocks
-were covered with a thin coat of ice. The boats were unloaded and slid
-across, then dropped below the projecting rock. The _Defiance_ skidded
-less than two feet and struck a projecting knob of rock the size of a
-goose egg. It punctured the side close to the stern, fortunately above
-the water line, and the wood was not entirely broken away.
+parties. Two hours after leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a
+rapid that made us catch our breath. It was in two sections--the
+lower one so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat. The
+upper part fell about twenty feet we should judge and was bad enough.
+It was a question if we could run this and keep from going over the
+lower part. If we made a portage, our boats would have to be taken
+three or four hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid was
+too strong to line a boat down. We concluded to risk running the
+first part. Bert climbed to the head of the second section of the
+rapid, where a projecting point of granite narrowed the stream,
+and formed a quiet eddy just above the foaming plunge. If we could
+keep out of the centre and land here we would be safe. Our shoes
+were removed, our trousers were rolled to our knees and we removed
+our coats. If we had to swim there, we were going to be prepared.
+The life-preservers were well inflated, and tied; then we made the
+plunge, Emery taking the lead, I following close behind. Our plan
+was to keep as near the shore as possible. Once I thought it was
+all over when I saw the _Edith_ pulled directly for a rock in spite
+of all Emery could do to pull away. Nothing but a rebounding wave
+saved him. I went through the same experience. Several times we were
+threatened with an upset, but we landed in safety. The portage was
+short and easy. Flat granite rocks were covered with a thin coat of
+ice. The boats were unloaded and slid across, then dropped below the
+projecting rock. The _Defiance_ skidded less than two feet and struck
+a projecting knob of rock the size of a goose egg. It punctured the
+side close to the stern, fortunately above the water line, and the
+wood was not entirely broken away.
 
 Two miles below this we found another bad one. This was lined while
 Bert got supper up in a little sloping canyon; about as uncomfortable
 a camp as we had found. Many of the rapids run the next day were
 violent. The river seemed to be trying to make up for lost time. We
 passed a canyon coming from the south containing two streams, one
-clear, and one muddy. The narrowest place we had seen on the river was
-a rapid run this day, not over forty feet wide. Evening brought us to
-a rapid with a lateral canyon coming in from each side, that on the
-right containing a muddy stream. The walls were sheer and jagged close
-to the rapid, with a break on the rugged slopes here and there. A
-sloping rock in the middle of the stream could be seen in the third
+clear, and one muddy. The narrowest place we had seen on the river
+was a rapid run this day, not over forty feet wide. Evening brought
+us to a rapid with a lateral canyon coming in from each side, that on
+the right containing a muddy stream. The walls were sheer and jagged
+close to the rapid, with a break on the rugged slopes here and there.
+A sloping rock in the middle of the stream could be seen in the third
 section of the rapid. This was Separation Rapid, the point where the
-two Howland brothers and Dunn parted company with Major Powell and his
-party.
-
-From our camp at the left side we could easily figure out a way to the
-upper plateau. Above that they would have a difficult climb as far as
-we could tell. That they did reach the top is well known. They met a
-tragic fate. The second day after getting out they were killed by some
-Indians--the Shewits Utes--who had treated them hospitably at first
-and provided them with something to eat. That night a visiting Indian
-brought a tale of depredations committed by some miners against
-another section of their tribe. These men were believed to be the
-guilty parties, and they were ambushed the next morning. Their fate
-remained a mystery for a year; then a Ute was seen with a watch
-belonging to one of the men. Later a Mormon who had a great deal of
-influence with the Indians got their story from them, and reported to
-Major Powell what he had learned. It was a deplorable and a tragic
-ending to what otherwise was one of the most successful, daring, and
-momentous explorations ever undertaken on this continent.
+two Howland brothers and Dunn parted company with Major Powell and
+his party.
+
+From our camp at the left side we could easily figure out a way to
+the upper plateau. Above that they would have a difficult climb as
+far as we could tell. That they did reach the top is well known.
+They met a tragic fate. The second day after getting out they were
+killed by some Indians--the Shewits Utes--who had treated them
+hospitably at first and provided them with something to eat. That
+night a visiting Indian brought a tale of depredations committed by
+some miners against another section of their tribe. These men were
+believed to be the guilty parties, and they were ambushed the next
+morning. Their fate remained a mystery for a year; then a Ute was
+seen with a watch belonging to one of the men. Later a Mormon who had
+a great deal of influence with the Indians got their story from them,
+and reported to Major Powell what he had learned. It was a deplorable
+and a tragic ending to what otherwise was one of the most successful,
+daring, and momentous explorations ever undertaken on this continent.
 
 We find there is a current belief that it was cowardice and fear of
 this one rapid that caused these men to separate from the party. The
@@ -6540,76 +6782,79 @@ more one hears of this separation, the more it seems that it was a
 difference of opinion on many matters, and not this one rapid, that
 caused them to leave. These men had been trappers and hunters, one
 might say pioneers, and one had been with Major Powell before the
-river exploration. They had gone through all the canyons, and had come
-through this far without a fatality. They had seen a great many rapids
-nearly as bad as this, and several that were worse, if one could judge
-by its nature when we found it. They were not being carried by others,
-but had charge of one boat. They did smash one boat in Disaster Rapid
-in Lodore Canyon, and at that time they claimed Major Powell gave them
-the wrong signal. This caused some feeling.
+river exploration. They had gone through all the canyons, and had
+come through this far without a fatality. They had seen a great
+many rapids nearly as bad as this, and several that were worse,
+if one could judge by its nature when we found it. They were not
+being carried by others, but had charge of one boat. They did smash
+one boat in Disaster Rapid in Lodore Canyon, and at that time they
+claimed Major Powell gave them the wrong signal. This caused some
+feeling.
 
 At the time of the split, the food question was a serious one. There
-were short rations for a long time; in fact there was practically no
-food. After an observation, Major Powell informed them that they were
-within forty-five miles of the Virgin River, in a direct line. Much of
-the country between the end of the canyon and the Virgin River was
-open, a few Mormon settlements could be found up the Virgin Valley. He
-offered them half of the small stock of provisions, when they
-persisted in leaving, but they refused to take any provisions
-whatever, feeling sure that they could kill enough game to subsist on.
-This one instance would seem to be enough to clear them of the stigma
-of cowardice. The country on top was covered with volcanic cinders.
-There was little water to be found, and in many ways it was just as
-inhospitable as the canyon. The cook had a pan of biscuits, which he
-left on a rock for them, after the men had helped the party lift the
-boats over the rocks at the head of the rapid. After landing in safety
-around a bend which hid them from sight, the boating party fired their
-guns, hoping they would hear the report, and follow in the abandoned
-boat. It is doubtful if they could hear the sound of the guns, above
-the roar of the rapid. If they did, they paid no attention to it. The
-younger Howland wished to remain with the party, but threw his lot
-with his brother, when he withdrew.
-
-While these men did not have the Major's deep scientific interest in
-the successful completion of this exploration, they undoubtedly should
-have stayed with their leader, if their services were needed or
-desired. It is more than likely that they were insubordinate; they
+were short rations for a long time; in fact there was practically
+no food. After an observation, Major Powell informed them that they
+were within forty-five miles of the Virgin River, in a direct line.
+Much of the country between the end of the canyon and the Virgin
+River was open, a few Mormon settlements could be found up the Virgin
+Valley. He offered them half of the small stock of provisions, when
+they persisted in leaving, but they refused to take any provisions
+whatever, feeling sure that they could kill enough game to subsist
+on. This one instance would seem to be enough to clear them of the
+stigma of cowardice. The country on top was covered with volcanic
+cinders. There was little water to be found, and in many ways it was
+just as inhospitable as the canyon. The cook had a pan of biscuits,
+which he left on a rock for them, after the men had helped the party
+lift the boats over the rocks at the head of the rapid. After landing
+in safety around a bend which hid them from sight, the boating party
+fired their guns, hoping they would hear the report, and follow in
+the abandoned boat. It is doubtful if they could hear the sound of
+the guns, above the roar of the rapid. If they did, they paid no
+attention to it. The younger Howland wished to remain with the party,
+but threw his lot with his brother, when he withdrew.
+
+While these men did not have the Major’s deep scientific interest
+in the successful completion of this exploration, they undoubtedly
+should have stayed with their leader, if their services were needed
+or desired. It is more than likely that they were insubordinate; they
 certainly made a misguided attempt, but in spite of these facts it
 scarcely seems just to brand them as cowards. Two days after they
 left, the boating party was camped at the end of the canyons.
 
+  [Illustration: CAPTAIN BURRO: A HA VA SUPAI.]
 
 
 
-CHAPTER XXIII
-
 
+CHAPTER XXIII
 
 THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS
 
+
 The first section of Separation Rapid was run the first thing in the
-morning, a manoeuvre that was accomplished by starting on the left
+morning, a manœuvre that was accomplished by starting on the left
 shore and crossing the swift centre clear to the other shore. This
 allowed us to reach some quiet water near a small deposit of rock and
 earth at the base of the sheer wall. Two feet of water would have
-covered this deposit; likewise two feet of water would have given us a
-clear channel over this second section. As it was, the rapid was
-rough, with many rocks very near the surface. Directly across from us,
-close to the left shore, was what looked like a ten-foot geyser, or
-fountain of water. This was caused by a rock in the path of a strong
-current rebounding from the shore. The water ran up on the side near
-the wall, then fell on all sides. It was seldom the water had force
-enough to carry to the top of a rock as large as that. This portage of
-the second section was one of the easiest we had made. By rolling a
-few large rocks around we could get a stream water across our small
-shore large enough to float an empty boat with a little help, so we
-lightened them of the cargo and floated them through our canal. While
-running the third section the _Edith_ was carried up on the sloping
-rock in the middle of the stream; she paused a moment, then came down
-like a shot and whirled around to the side without mishap. This made
-the thirteenth rapid in which both boats were lined or portaged. In
-three other rapids one boat was run through and one was portaged. Half
-of all these rapids were located in the Grand Canyon.
+covered this deposit; likewise two feet of water would have given
+us a clear channel over this second section. As it was, the rapid
+was rough, with many rocks very near the surface. Directly across
+from us, close to the left shore, was what looked like a ten-foot
+geyser, or fountain of water. This was caused by a rock in the path
+of a strong current rebounding from the shore. The water ran up on
+the side near the wall, then fell on all sides. It was seldom the
+water had force enough to carry to the top of a rock as large as
+that. This portage of the second section was one of the easiest we
+had made. By rolling a few large rocks around we could get a stream
+of water across our small shore large enough to float an empty boat
+with a little help, so we lightened them of the cargo and floated
+them through our canal. While running the third section the _Edith_
+was carried up on the sloping rock in the middle of the stream; she
+paused a moment, then came down like a shot and whirled around to the
+side without mishap. This made the thirteenth rapid in which both
+boats were lined or portaged. In three other rapids one boat was run
+through and one was portaged. Half of all these rapids were located
+in the Grand Canyon.
 
 All this time we were anxiously looking forward to a rapid which Mr.
 Stone had described as being the worst in the entire series, also the
@@ -6620,111 +6865,117 @@ was described as being located below a small stream flowing from the
 south. The same rapid was described by Major Powell as having a bold,
 lava-capped escarpment at the head of the rapid, on the right. We had
 not seen any lava since leaving Diamond Creek, and an entry in my
-notes reads, "we have gone over Stone's 'big rapid' three times and it
-is still ahead of us." The knowledge that there was a big rapid in the
-indefinite somewhere that was likely to cause us trouble seemed to
-give us more anxious moments than the many unmentioned rapids we were
-finding all this time. We wondered how high the escarpment was, and if
-we could take our boats over its top. We tried to convince ourselves
-that it was behind us, although sure that it could not be. But the
-absence of lava puzzled us. After one "bad" rapid and several "good"
-rapids we came to a sharp turn in the canyon. Emery was ahead and
-called back, "I see a little stream"; Bert joined with "I see the
-lava"; and the "Bold Escarpment Rapid," as we had been calling it for
+notes reads, “we have gone over Stone’s ‘big rapid’ three times and
+it is still ahead of us.” The knowledge that there was a big rapid in
+the indefinite somewhere that was likely to cause us trouble seemed
+to give us more anxious moments than the many unmentioned rapids we
+were finding all this time. We wondered how high the escarpment was,
+and if we could take our boats over its top. We tried to convince
+ourselves that it was behind us, although sure that it could not be.
+But the absence of lava puzzled us. After one “bad” rapid and several
+“good” rapids we came to a sharp turn in the canyon. Emery was ahead
+and called back, “I see a little stream”; Bert joined with “I see the
+lava”; and the “Bold Escarpment Rapid,” as we had been calling it for
 some time, was before us. It was more than a nasty rapid, it was a
 cataract!
 
-What a din that water sent up! We had to yell to make ourselves heard.
-The air vibrated with the impact of water against rock. The rapid was
-nearly half a mile long. There were two sections near its head
-staggered with great rocks, forty of them, just above or slightly
-submerged under the surface of the water. Our low stage of water
-helped us, so that we did not have to line the boats from the ledge,
-eighty feet above the water, as others had done. The rapid broke just
-below the lower end of the sheer rock, which extended twenty feet
-beyond the irregular shore. The _Edith_ went first, headed upstream,
-at a slight angle nearly touching the wall, dropping a few inches
-between each restraining stroke of the oars. Bert crouched on the bow,
-ready to spring with the rope, as soon as Emery passed the wall and
-headed her in below the wall. Jumping to the shore, he took a snub
-around a boulder and kept her from being dragged into the rapid. Then
-they both caught the _Defiance_ as she swung in below the rock, and
-half the battle was won before we tackled the rapid.
-
-Our days were short, and we did not take the boats down until the next
-day; but we did carry much of the camp material and cargo halfway down
-over ledges a hundred feet above the river. For a bad rapid we were
-very fortunate in getting past it as easily as we did. Logs were laid
-over rocks, the boats were skidded over them about their own length
-and dropped in again. Logs and boats were lined down in the swift, but
-less riotous water, to the next barrier, which was more difficult. A
-ten-foot rounded boulder lay close to the shore, with smaller rocks,
-smooth and ice-filmed, scattered between. Powerful currents swirled
-between these rocks and disappeared under two others, wedged closely
-together on top. Three times the logs were snatched from our grasp as
-we tried to bridge them across this current, and they vanished in the
-foam, to shoot out end first, twenty feet below and race away on the
-leaping water. A boat would be smashed to kindling-wood if once
-carried under there. At last we got our logs wedged, and an hour of
-tugging, in which only two men could take part at the same time,
-landed both boats in safety below this barrier. We shot the remainder
-of the rapid on water so swift that the oars were snatched from our
-hands if we tried to do more than keep the boats straight with the
-current. That rapid was no longer the "Bold Escarpment," but the "Last
-Portage" instead, and it was behind us.
-
-The afternoon was half gone when we made ready pull away from the Last
-Portage. There were other rapids, but scarcely a pause was made in our
-two-hour run, and we camped away from the roar of water. The canyon
-was widening out a little at a time; the granite disappeared in the
-following day's run, at noon. Grass-covered slopes, with seeping
-mineral springs, took the place of precipitous walls; they dropped to
-2500 feet in height; numerous side canyons cut the walls in regular
-sections like gigantic city blocks, instead of an unbroken avenue.
-Small rapids continued to appear, there were a few small islands, and
-divided currents, so shallow they sometimes kept us guessing which one
-to take, but we continued to run them all without a pause. We would
-have run out of the canyon that day but for one thing. Five
-mountain-sheep were seen from our boats in one of the sloping grassy
-meadows above the river. We landed below, carried our cameras back,
-and spent half an hour in trying to see them again, but they had taken
-alarm.
-
-Placer claim locations and fresh burro tracks were seen in the sand at
-our last Grand Canyon camp, and a half mile below us we could see out
-into open country. We found the walls, or the end of the table-land,
-to be about two thousand feet high, with the canyon emerging at a
-sharp angle so that a narrow ridge, or "hogs-back" lay on the left
-side of the stream. Once out in the open the walls were seen to be
-quite steep, but could be climbed to the top almost any place without
-trouble. Saturday, January the 13th, we were out of the canyon at
-last, and the towering walls, now friendly, now menacing, were behind
-us. Three hundred and sixty-five large rapids, and nearly twice as
-many small rapids, were behind us and the dream of ten years was an
-accomplished fact. But best of all, there were no tragedies or
-fatalities to record. Perhaps we did look a little the worse for wear,
-but a few days away from the river would repair all that. The boats
-had a bump here and there, besides the one big patch on the _Edith_; a
-little mending and a little caulking would put both the _Edith_ and
-_Defiance_ in first-class condition.
+What a din that water sent up! We had to yell to make ourselves
+heard. The air vibrated with the impact of water against rock. The
+rapid was nearly half a mile long. There were two sections near
+its head staggered with great rocks, forty of them, just above or
+slightly submerged under the surface of the water. Our low stage
+of water helped us, so that we did not have to line the boats
+from the ledge, eighty feet above the water, as others had done.
+The rapid broke just below the lower end of the sheer rock, which
+extended twenty feet beyond the irregular shore. The _Edith_ went
+first, headed upstream, at a slight angle nearly touching the wall,
+dropping a few inches between each restraining stroke of the oars.
+Bert crouched on the bow, ready to spring with the rope, as soon as
+Emery passed the wall and headed her in below the wall. Jumping to
+the shore, he took a snub around a boulder and kept her from being
+dragged into the rapid. Then they both caught the _Defiance_ as
+she swung in below the rock, and half the battle was won before we
+tackled the rapid.
+
+Our days were short, and we did not take the boats down until the
+next day; but we did carry much of the camp material and cargo
+halfway down over ledges a hundred feet above the river. For a bad
+rapid we were very fortunate in getting past it as easily as we did.
+Logs were laid over rocks, the boats were skidded over them about
+their own length and dropped in again. Logs and boats were lined down
+in the swift, but less riotous water, to the next barrier, which
+was more difficult. A ten-foot rounded boulder lay close to the
+shore, with smaller rocks, smooth and ice-filmed, scattered between.
+Powerful currents swirled between these rocks and disappeared under
+two others, wedged closely together on top. Three times the logs
+were snatched from our grasp as we tried to bridge them across this
+current, and they vanished in the foam, to shoot out end first,
+twenty feet below and race away on the leaping water. A boat would be
+smashed to kindling-wood if once carried under there. At last we got
+our logs wedged, and an hour of tugging, in which only two men could
+take part at the same time, landed both boats in safety below this
+barrier. We shot the remainder of the rapid on water so swift that
+the oars were snatched from our hands if we tried to do more than
+keep the boats straight with the current. That rapid was no longer
+the “Bold Escarpment,” but the “Last Portage” instead, and it was
+behind us.
+
+  [Illustration:
+              H. LAUZON.     E. L. KOLB.     _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE LAST PORTAGE. THE ROCKS WERE ICE-FILMED. NOTE POTHOLES.]
+
+The afternoon was half gone when we made ready pull away from the
+Last Portage. There were other rapids, but scarcely a pause was made
+in our two-hour run, and we camped away from the roar of water. The
+canyon was widening out a little at a time; the granite disappeared
+in the following day’s run, at noon. Grass-covered slopes, with
+seeping mineral springs, took the place of precipitous walls; they
+dropped to 2500 feet in height; numerous side canyons cut the walls
+in regular sections like gigantic city blocks, instead of an unbroken
+avenue. Small rapids continued to appear, there were a few small
+islands, and divided currents, so shallow they sometimes kept us
+guessing which one to take, but we continued to run them all without
+a pause. We would have run out of the canyon that day but for one
+thing. Five mountain-sheep were seen from our boats in one of the
+sloping grassy meadows above the river. We landed below, carried our
+cameras back, and spent half an hour in trying to see them again, but
+they had taken alarm.
+
+Placer claim locations and fresh burro tracks were seen in the sand
+at our last Grand Canyon camp, and a half mile below us we could
+see out into open country. We found the walls, or the end of the
+table-land, to be about two thousand feet high, with the canyon
+emerging at a sharp angle so that a narrow ridge, or “hogs-back” lay
+on the left side of the stream. Once out in the open, the walls were
+seen to be quite steep, but could be climbed to the top almost any
+place without trouble. Saturday, January the 13th, we were out of the
+canyon at last, and the towering walls, now friendly, now menacing,
+were behind us. Three hundred and sixty-five large rapids, and nearly
+twice as many small rapids, were behind us and the dream of ten years
+was an accomplished fact. But best of all, there were no tragedies
+or fatalities to record. Perhaps we did look a little the worse for
+wear, but a few days away from the river would repair all that. The
+boats had a bump here and there, besides the one big patch on the
+_Edith_; a little mending and a little caulking would put both the
+_Edith_ and _Defiance_ in first-class condition.
 
 There is little of interest to record of our 175-mile run to Needles,
 California. It was a land of desolation--an extension of the Mojave
-Desert on the south, and the alkaline flats and mineral mountains of
-Nevada on the north, of Death Valley and the Funeral Mountains of
-California to the northwest--a burned-out land of grim-looking
+Desert on the south, and the alkaline flats and mineral mountains
+of Nevada on the north, of Death Valley and the Funeral Mountains
+of California to the northwest--a burned-out land of grim-looking
 mountains extending north and south across our way; a dried-out,
-washed-out, and wind-swept land of extensive flats and arroyos; a land
-of rock and gravel cemented in marls and clay; ungraced with any but
-the desert plants,--cactus and thorny shrubs,--with little that was
-pleasing or attractive. A desert land it is true, but needing only the
-magic touch of water to transform much of it into a garden spot. Even
-as it was, a few months later it would be covered with the flaming
-blossoms of the desert growth, which seem to try to make amends in one
-or two short months for nearly a year of desolation.
-
-A wash ran along the base of the plateau from which we had emerged. An
-abandoned road and ferry showed that this had once been a
+washed-out, and wind-swept land of extensive flats and arroyos; a
+land of rock and gravel cemented in marls and clay; ungraced with any
+but the desert plants,--cactus and thorny shrubs,--with little that
+was pleasing or attractive. A desert land it is true, but needing
+only the magic touch of water to transform much of it into a garden
+spot. Even as it was, a few months later it would be covered with
+the flaming blossoms of the desert growth, which seem to try to make
+amends in one or two short months for nearly a year of desolation.
+
+A wash ran along the base of the plateau from which we had emerged.
+An abandoned road and ferry showed that this had once been a
 well-travelled route. The stream had a good current and we pulled
 away, only stopping once to see the last of our plateau before a turn
 and deepening banks hid it from view. We wondered if the water ever
@@ -6734,11 +6985,11 @@ doubt that there were some such falls back in the dim past when these
 canyons were being carved.
 
 In the middle of the afternoon we passed a ranch or a house with a
-little garden, occupied by two miners, who hailed us from the shore. A
-half-mile below was the Scanlon Ferry, a binding tie between Arizona,
-on the south and what was now Nevada, on the north, for we had reached
-the boundary line shortly after emerging from the canyon. We still
-travelled nearly directly west. The ferry was in charge of a
+little garden, occupied by two miners, who hailed us from the shore.
+A half-mile below was the Scanlon Ferry, a binding tie between
+Arizona, on the south and what was now Nevada, on the north, for we
+had reached the boundary line shortly after emerging from the canyon.
+We still travelled nearly directly west. The ferry was in charge of a
 Cornishman who also had as pretty a little ranch as one could expect
 to find in such an unlikely place. A purling stream of water, piped
 from somewhere up in the hills, had caused the transformation. The
@@ -6758,28 +7009,31 @@ flour,--all for $2.50. We did not leave until the next morning, then
 bought another jar of honey, for we had no sugar, and two-thirds of
 the first jar was eaten before we left the ferry.
 
+  [Illustration: MOONEY FALLS: HA VA SU CANYON.]
+
 We pulled away in such a hurry the next morning that we forgot an axe
-that had been carried with us for the entire journey. A five-hour run
-brought us to the mouth of the Virgin River, a sand-bar a mile wide,
-and with a red-coloured stream little larger than Cataract Creek
-winding through it. We had once seen this stream near its head waters,
-a beautiful mountain creek, that seemed to bear no relation to this
-repulsive-looking stream that entered from the north. A large,
-flat-topped, adobe building, apparently deserted, stood off at one
-side of the stream. This was the head of navigation for flat-bottomed
-steamboats that once plied between here and the towns on the lower end
-of the river. They carried supplies for small mines scattered through
-the mountains and took out cargoes of ore, and of rock salt which was
-mined back in Nevada.
+that had been carried with us for the entire journey. A five-hour
+run brought us to the mouth of the Virgin River, a sand-bar a mile
+wide, and with a red-coloured stream little larger than Cataract
+Creek winding through it. We had once seen this stream near its head
+waters, a beautiful mountain creek, that seemed to bear no relation
+to this repulsive-looking stream that entered from the north.
+A large, flat-topped, adobe building, apparently deserted, stood
+off at one side of the stream. This was the head of navigation for
+flat-bottomed steamboats that once plied between here and the towns
+on the lower end of the river. They carried supplies for small mines
+scattered through the mountains and took out cargoes of ore, and of
+rock salt which was mined back in Nevada.
 
 It was here at the Virgin River that Major Powell concluded his
-original voyage of exploration. Some of his men took the boats on down
-to Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles; afterwards two of the party
-continued on to the Gulf. The country below the Virgin River had been
-explored by several parties, but previous to this time nothing
-definite was known of the gorges until this exploration by this most
-remarkable man. The difficulties of this hazardous trip were increased
-for him by the fact that he had lost an arm in the Civil War.
+original voyage of exploration. Some of his men took the boats on
+down to Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles; afterwards two of
+the party continued on to the Gulf. The country below the Virgin
+River had been explored by several parties, but previous to this time
+nothing definite was known of the gorges until this exploration by
+this most remarkable man. The difficulties of this hazardous trip
+were increased for him by the fact that he had lost an arm in the
+Civil War.
 
 It is usually taken for granted that the United States government was
 back of this exploration. This was true of the second expedition, but
@@ -6788,151 +7042,148 @@ State College of Illinois, otherwise he bore all the expense himself.
 We received $10,000 from the government to apply on the expenses of
 the second trip.
 
-We felt that we had some reason to feel a justifiable pride for having
-duplicated, in some ways, this arduous journey. It was impossible for
-us to do more than guess what must have been the feelings and
-anxieties of this explorer. Added to the fact that we had boats,
-tested and constructed to meet the requirements of the river, and the
-benefit of others' experiences, was a knowledge that we were not
-likely to be precipitated over a waterfall, or if we lost everything
-and succeeded in climbing out, that there were a few ranches and
-distant settlements scattered through the country.
+We felt that we had some reason to feel a justifiable pride for
+having duplicated, in some ways, this arduous journey. It was
+impossible for us to do more than guess what must have been the
+feelings and anxieties of this explorer. Added to the fact that we
+had boats, tested and constructed to meet the requirements of the
+river, and the benefit of others’ experiences, was a knowledge that
+we were not likely to be precipitated over a waterfall, or if we
+lost everything and succeeded in climbing out, that there were a few
+ranches and distant settlements scattered through the country.
 
 But we had traversed the same river and the same canyons which change
 but little from year to year, and had succeeded beyond our fondest
 hopes in having accomplished what we set out to do.
 
 The Black Mountains, dark and forbidding, composed of a hard rock
-which gave a metallic clink, and decorated with large spots of white,
-yellow, vermilion, and purple deposits of volcanic ashes, were entered
-this afternoon. The peaks were about a thousand feet high. The passage
-between is known as Boulder Canyon. Here we met two miners at work on
-a tunnel, or drift, who informed us that it was about forty miles to
-Las Vegas, Nevada, and that it was only twenty-five miles from the
-mouth of Las Vegas Wash, farther down the river, to this same town and
-the railroad.
+which gave a metallic clink, and decorated with large spots of
+white, yellow, vermilion, and purple deposits of volcanic ashes,
+were entered this afternoon. The peaks were about a thousand feet
+high. The passage between is known as Boulder Canyon. Here we met
+two miners at work on a tunnel, or drift, who informed us that it
+was about forty miles to Las Vegas, Nevada, and that it was only
+twenty-five miles from the mouth of Las Vegas Wash, farther down the
+river, to this same town and the railroad.
 
 Fort Callville--an abandoned rock building, constructed by the
 directions of Brigham Young, without windows or roof, and surrounded
-by stone corrals--was passed the next day. At Las Vegas Wash the river
-turned at right angles, going directly south, holding with very little
-deviation to this general direction until it empties into the Gulf of
-California nearly five hundred miles away. The river seemed to be
-growing smaller as we got out in the open country. Like all Western
-rivers, when unprotected by canyons, it was sinking in the sand.
-Sand-bars impeded our progress at such places as the mouth of the
-Wash. But we had a good current, without rapids in Black Canyon, which
-came shortly below, and mile after mile was put behind us before we
-camped for the night.
-
-An old stamp-mill, closed for the time, but in charge of three men who
-were making preparations to resume work, was passed the next day. They
-had telephone communication with Searchlight, Nevada, twenty odd miles
-away, and we sent out some telegrams in that way. More sand-bars were
-encountered the next day, and ranches began to appear on both sides of
-the river. We had difficulty on some of these bars. In places the
-river bed was a mile wide, with stagnant pools above the sand, and
-with one deep channel twisting between. At Fort Mojave, now an Indian
-school and agency, we telephoned to some friends in Needles, as we had
-promised to do, telling them we would arrive about noon of the
-following day. We made a mistake in not camping at the high ground by
-the "fort" that night, for just below the river widened again and the
-channel turned out in the centre. It was getting dark and we had
-entered this before noticing which way it turned, and had a hard pull
-back to the shore, for we had no desire to camp out there in the
-quicksand. The shore was little more desirable. It was a marsh,
-covered with a growth of flags and tules but with the ground frozen
-enough so that we did not sink. Our last camp--No. 76--was made in
-this marsh. There we spent the night, hidden like hunted savages in
-the cane-brake, while an Indian brass band played some very good music
-for an officers' ball, less than half a mile away.
-
-We were up and away with the sun the next morning. On nearing Needles,
-a friend met us on the outskirts of the town and informed us that they
-had arranged what he called an official landing and reception. At his
-request we deferred going down at once, but busied ourselves instead
-at packing our cargo, ready for shipping. Our friend had secured the
-services of a motion-picture operator and our own camera was sent down
-to make a picture of the landing, which was made as he had arranged.
+by stone corrals--was passed the next day. At Las Vegas Wash the
+river turned at right angles, going directly south, holding with very
+little deviation to this general direction until it empties into the
+Gulf of California nearly five hundred miles away. The river seemed
+to be growing smaller as we got out in the open country. Like all
+Western rivers, when unprotected by canyons, it was sinking in the
+sand. Sand-bars impeded our progress at such places as the mouth of
+the Wash. But we had a good current, without rapids in Black Canyon,
+which came shortly below, and mile after mile was put behind us
+before we camped for the night.
+
+An old stamp-mill, closed for the time, but in charge of three men
+who were making preparations to resume work, was passed the next day.
+They had telephone communication with Searchlight, Nevada, twenty odd
+miles away, and we sent out some telegrams in that way.
+
+More sand-bars were encountered the next day, and ranches began to
+appear on both sides of the river. We had difficulty on some of
+these bars. In places the river bed was a mile wide, with stagnant
+pools above the sand, and with one deep channel twisting between. At
+Fort Mojave, now an Indian school and agency, we telephoned to some
+friends in Needles, as we had promised to do, telling them we would
+arrive about noon of the following day. We made a mistake in not
+camping at the high ground by the “fort” that night, for just below
+the river widened again and the channel turned out in the centre.
+It was getting dark and we had entered this before noticing which
+way it turned, and had a hard pull back to the shore, for we had
+no desire to camp out there in the quicksand. The shore was little
+more desirable. It was a marsh, covered with a growth of flags and
+tules but with the ground frozen enough so that we did not sink. Our
+last camp--No. 76--was made in this marsh. There we spent the night,
+hidden like hunted savages in the cane-brake, while an Indian brass
+band played some very good music for an officers’ ball, less than
+half a mile away.
+
+We were up and away with the sun the next morning. On nearing
+Needles, a friend met us on the outskirts of the town and informed
+us that they had arranged what he called an official landing and
+reception. At his request we deferred going down at once, but busied
+ourselves instead at packing our cargo, ready for shipping. Our
+friend had secured the services of a motion-picture operator and our
+own camera was sent down to make a picture of the landing, which was
+made as he had arranged.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  WATCHING FOR THE SIGNAL FIRE. MRS. EMERY AND EDITH KOLB.]
 
 We landed in Needles January 18, 1912; one month from the time of our
 start from Bright Angel Trail, with a total of one hundred and one
 days spent along the river. In that time our camps had been changed
-seventy-six times.
-
-Our two boats, highly prized as souvenirs of our twelve hundred mile
-trip, and which had carried us through three hundred and sixty-five
-big rapids, over a total descent of more than five thousand feet, were
-loaded on cars ready for shipment; the _Edith_ to Los Angeles, the
-_Defiance_ to the Grand Canyon.
+seventy-six times. Our two boats, highly prized as souvenirs of
+our twelve hundred mile trip, and which had carried us through three
+hundred and sixty-five big rapids, over a total descent of more than
+five thousand feet, were loaded on cars ready for shipment; the
+_Edith_ to Los Angeles, the _Defiance_ to the Grand Canyon.
 
 Among other mail awaiting us was the following letter, bearing the
 postmark of Hite, Utah:
 
-     "KOLB BROS.,
 
-     "DEAR FRIENDS:
+“KOLB BROS.,
 
-     "Well I got here at last after seventeen days in Cataract
-     Canyon. The old boat will stand a little quiet water but
-     will never go through another rapid. I certainly played
-     'ring-a-round' some of those rocks in Cataract Canyon; I
-     tried every scheme I had ever heard of, and some that were
-     never thought of before. At the last rapid in Cataract I
-     carried all my stuff over the cliff, then tried to line the
-     boat from the narrow ledge. The boat jerked me into the
-     river, but I did not lose my hold on the chain and climbed
-     on board. I had no oars, but managed to get through without
-     striking any rocks, and landed a mile and a half below the
-     supplies. I hope the 'movies' are good.[7]
+“DEAR FRIENDS:
 
-     "Sincerely yours,
+“Well I got here at last after seventeen days in Cataract Canyon. The
+old boat will stand a little quiet water but will never go through
+another rapid. I certainly played ‘ring-a-round’ some of those rocks
+in Cataract Canyon; I tried every scheme I had ever heard of, and
+some that were never thought of before. At the last rapid in Cataract
+I carried all my stuff over the cliff, then tried to line the boat
+from the narrow ledge. The boat jerked me into the river, but I did
+not lose my hold on the chain and climbed on board. I had no oars,
+but managed to get through without striking any rocks, and landed a
+mile and a half below the supplies. I hope the ‘movies’ are good.[7]
 
-     "CHAS. SMITH."
-
-
-
-
-CONCLUSION. HOW I WENT TO MEXICO
+“Sincerely yours,
 
+“CHAS. SMITH.”
 
 
 
 
+CONCLUSION. HOW I WENT TO MEXICO
 
 CHAPTER XXIV
 
-
-
 ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD
 
-A westward-bound train was bearing me across the Mojave Desert one day
-in May. In a few swiftly passing hours we had made a six-thousand foot
-descent from the plateau with its fir and aspen-covered mountain, its
-cedar and piñon-clothed foot-hills, and its extensive forests of
-yellow pine. Crimson and yellow-flowered cactus, sage and chaparral,
-succeeded the pines. The cool mountains had given way to burned-out,
-umber-coloured hills, rock-ribbed arroyos, and seemingly endless
-desert; and the sun was growing hotter every minute.
-
-If the heat continued to increase, I doubted if I would care to take a
-half-planned Colorado River trip down to the Gulf. Visions of the
-California beaches, of fishing at Catalina and of horseback rides over
-the Sierra's trails, nearly unsettled my determination to stop at
-Needles, on the California side of the river. This was my vacation!
-Why undergo all the discomfort of a voyage on a desert stream, when
-the pleasures and comforts of the Pacific beckoned? One thing was
-sure, if I was not successful in securing a boat at Needles, the very
-next train would find me on board, bound for the Western Slope. By
-mid-afternoon the chaparral had disappeared and only the cactus
-remained--the ocotilla, covered with a million flowers, wave upon wave
-of crimson flame, against the yellow earth. Violet-veiled mountains
-appeared in the west, marking the southern trend of the Colorado. The
-air was suffocating. The train-created wind was like a blast from a
-furnace; yet with the electric fans whirring, with blinds drawn and
-windows closed to keep the withering air _out_, it seemed a little
-less uncomfortable in the car, in spite of the unvitalized air, than
-under the scorching sun.
+
+A westward-bound train was bearing me across the Mojave Desert one
+day in May. In a few swiftly passing hours we had made a six-thousand
+foot descent from the plateau with its fir and aspen-covered
+mountain, its cedar and piñon-clothed foot-hills, and its extensive
+forests of yellow pine. Crimson and yellow-flowered cactus, sage and
+chaparral, succeeded the pines. The cool mountains had given way to
+burned-out, umber-coloured hills, rock-ribbed arroyos, and seemingly
+endless desert; and the sun was growing hotter every minute.
+
+If the heat continued to increase, I doubted if I would care to
+take a half-planned Colorado River trip down to the Gulf. Visions
+of the California beaches, of fishing at Catalina and of horseback
+rides over the Sierra’s trails, nearly unsettled my determination
+to stop at Needles, on the California side of the river. This was
+my vacation! Why undergo all the discomfort of a voyage on a desert
+stream, when the pleasures and comforts of the Pacific beckoned?
+One thing was sure, if I was not successful in securing a boat
+at Needles, the very next train would find me on board, bound for
+the Western Slope. By mid-afternoon the chaparral had disappeared
+and only the cactus remained--the ocotilla, covered with a million
+flowers, wave upon wave of crimson flame, against the yellow earth.
+Violet-veiled mountains appeared in the west, marking the southern
+trend of the Colorado. The air was suffocating. The train-created
+wind was like a blast from a furnace; yet with the electric fans
+whirring, with blinds drawn and windows closed to keep the withering
+air _out_, it seemed a little less uncomfortable in the car, in spite
+of the unvitalized air, than under the scorching sun.
 
 We were beside the Colorado at last. I had a good view of the stream
 below, as we crossed the bridge--the Colorado in flood, muddy,
@@ -6942,39 +7193,42 @@ dangers of this stream. The river had called again! The heat was
 forgotten, the visions of the coast faded, for me the train could not
 reach Needles, ten miles up the river, quickly enough.
 
-With my brother, I had followed this stream down to Needles, through a
-thousand miles of canyon. I had seen how it carved its way through the
-mountains, carrying them on, in solution, toward the ocean. At last I
-would see what became of all these misplaced mountains. I would see
-the tidal bore as it swept in from the Gulf. I had heard there were
-wild hogs which burrowed through the cane-brake. It may be that I
-would learn of a vessel at some port down on the Mexican coast, which
-I might reach and which would take me around the Lower California
-Peninsula. I felt sure there was such a port. No doubt I could have
-found books to tell me exactly what I would see, but too much
-information would spoil all the romance of such an adventure. It was
-all very alluring. With the spring flood on, the river could not help
-but be interesting and exciting, a pretty good imitation of the
+With my brother, I had followed this stream down to Needles, through
+a thousand miles of canyon. I had seen how it carved its way through
+the mountains, carrying them on, in solution, toward the ocean. At
+last I would see what became of all these misplaced mountains. I
+would see the tidal bore as it swept in from the Gulf. I had heard
+there were wild hogs which burrowed through the cane-brake. It may
+be that I would learn of a vessel at some port down on the Mexican
+coast, which I might reach and which would take me around the Lower
+California Peninsula. I felt sure there was such a port. No doubt I
+could have found books to tell me exactly what I would see, but too
+much information would spoil all the romance of such an adventure. It
+was all very alluring. With the spring flood on, the river could not
+help but be interesting and exciting, a pretty good imitation of the
 rapids, perhaps. If I could only secure a boat!
 
 Half an hour later I was meeting old acquaintances about the hotel,
 connected with the station. The genial hotel manager, with the Irish
 name, was smilingly explaining to some newcomers that this was not
-hot; that "a dry heat at 110 degrees was not nearly as bad as 85
-degrees back in Chicago," "and as for heat," he continued, "why down
-in Yuma"--then he caught sight of me, with a grin on my face, and
-perhaps he remembered that I had heard him say the same thing two
-years before, when it was even hotter; and he came over with
+hot; that “a dry heat at 110 degrees was not nearly as bad as 85
+degrees back in Chicago,” “and as for heat,” he continued, “why
+down in Yuma”--then he caught sight of me, with a grin on my face,
+and perhaps he remembered that I had heard him say the same thing
+two years before, when it was even hotter; and he came over with
 out-stretched hand,--calling me uncomplimentary names, under his
 breath, for spoiling the effect of his explanation; all which was
 belied by his welcome. It takes an Irishman to run a big hotel in the
 middle of the desert.
 
-A few inquiries brought out the information that I was not likely to
-get a boat. The stores did not keep them. I should have given my order
-two weeks before to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00 a
-foot. This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted--well say,
-about $15.00 worth. It would look something like a tub, wouldn't it?
+  [Illustration: THE GRANITE GORGE, THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET DEEP. NEAR
+  BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.]
+
+A few inquiries brought out the information that I was not likely
+to get a boat. The stores did not keep them. I should have given my
+order two weeks before to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00
+a foot. This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted--well say,
+about $15.00 worth. It would look something like a tub, wouldn’t it?
 Perhaps it was to be the coast, for me, after all.
 
 The Colorado River in flood is a terrible stream. Unlike the Eastern
@@ -6982,91 +7236,95 @@ rivers, there are no populous cities--with apologies to Needles and
 Yuma--along its shores, to be inundated with the floods. Unlike the
 rivers of the South, few great agricultural districts spread across
 its bottoms. Along the upper seven hundred miles there are not a
-half-dozen ranches with twenty-five acres under cultivation. But if
-destructive power and untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado River,
-in flood, is a terrible stream.
+half-dozen ranches with twenty-five acres under cultivation. But
+if destructive power and untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado
+River, in flood, is a terrible stream.
 
 After changing into some comfortable clothes I sauntered past the
 railway machine shops down to the river, and up to where a fight was
-being waged to save the upper part of the town from being torn away by
-the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock had been dumped
-along the river bank, only to disappear in the quicksands; and as yet
-no bottom had been reached. Up to this point the fight was about
+being waged to save the upper part of the town from being torn away
+by the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock had been dumped
+along the river bank, only to disappear in the quicksands; and as
+yet no bottom had been reached. Up to this point the fight was about
 equal. The flood would not reach its crest until two or three weeks
 later.
 
-Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by the river. The workmen
-had finished their day's labour. A ferryman said that I might talk an
-Indian into selling his boat, but it was doubtful. My next job was to
-find such an Indian.
-
-A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty bed spring, slung
-on a home-made frame, before his willow and adobe home, close to the
-Colorado River. In answer to my repeated question he uncoiled and
-stretched the full length of his six foot six couch, grunted a few
-words in his native tongue to other Indians without a glance in my
-direction, then indifferently closed his eyes again. A young Indian in
-semi-cowboy garb,--not omitting a gorgeous silk handkerchief about his
-neck,--jabbered awhile with some grinning squaws, then said in
-perfectly understandable English, "He will sell his boat for $18.00.
-It is worth $30.00." This was decisive for an Indian. It usually takes
-a half-day of bickering to get them to make any kind of a bargain. I
-told him I would take it in the morning.
+Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by the river. The
+workmen had finished their day’s labour. A ferryman said that I might
+talk an Indian into selling his boat, but it was doubtful. My next
+job was to find such an Indian.
+
+A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty bed spring,
+slung on a home-made frame, before his willow and adobe home,
+close to the Colorado River. In answer to my repeated question he
+uncoiled and stretched the full length of his six foot six couch,
+grunted a few words in his native tongue to other Indians without a
+glance in my direction, then indifferently closed his eyes again.
+A young Indian in semi-cowboy garb,--not omitting a gorgeous silk
+handkerchief about his neck,--jabbered awhile with some grinning
+squaws, then said in perfectly understandable English, “He will sell
+his boat for $18.00. It is worth $30.00.” This was decisive for an
+Indian. It usually takes a half-day of bickering to get them to make
+any kind of a bargain. I told him I would take it in the morning.
 
 It was a well-constructed boat, almost new, built of inch pine,
 flat-bottomed, and otherwise quite similar in shape to the boats my
-brother and I had used on our twelve hundred mile journey through the
-canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers,--but without the graceful
-lines and swells that made those other boats so valuable to us in
-rapids. The boat was nearly new and well worth $30.00, as boat prices
-went in that town. Why he was willing to sell it for $18.00, or at the
-rate of $1.00 a foot, I could not imagine. It was the first bargain an
-Indian had ever offered me. But if I paid for it that evening, there
-were doubts in my mind if I should find it in the morning, so I
-delayed closing the bargain and went back again to inspect the boat.
+brother and I had used on our twelve hundred mile journey through
+the canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers,--but without the
+graceful lines and swells that made those other boats so valuable
+to us in rapids. The boat was nearly new and well worth $30.00, as
+boat prices went in that town. Why he was willing to sell it for
+$18.00, or at the rate of $1.00 a foot, I could not imagine. It was
+the first bargain an Indian had ever offered me. But if I paid for
+it that evening, there were doubts in my mind if I should find it in
+the morning, so I delayed closing the bargain and went back again to
+inspect the boat.
 
 That evening I inquired among my acquaintances if there was any one
 who would care to accompany me. If so I would give them passage to
 Yuma, or to the Gulf of California in Mexico, if they wished it. But
-no one could go, or those who could, wouldn't. One would have thought
+no one could go, or those who could, wouldn’t. One would have thought
 from the stories with which I was regaled, that the rapids of the
 Grand Canyon were below Needles, and as for going to the Gulf, it was
 suicide. I was told of the outlaws along the border, of the firearms
 and opium smugglers, who shot first and questioned afterward, and of
 the insurrectos of Lower California. The river had no real outlet to
-the ocean, they said, since the break into Salton Sea, but spread over
-a cane-brake, thirty miles or more in width. Many people had gone into
-these swamps and never returned, whether lost in the jungles or killed
-by the Cocopah Indians, no one knew. They simply disappeared. It was
-all very alluring.
-
-My preparations, the next day, were few. I had included a sleeping bag
-with my baggage. It would come in equally handy whether I went down on
-the Colorado or up into the Coast Range. A frying-pan, a coffee-pot a
-few metal dishes and provisions for a week were all I needed. Some one
-suggested some bent poles, and a cover, such as are used on wagons to
-keep off the sun. This seemed like a good idea; and I hunted up a
-carpenter who did odd jobs. He did not have such a one, but he did
-have an old wagon-seat cover, which could be raised or dropped at
-will. This was even better, for sometimes hard winds sweep up the
-river. The cover was fastened to the sides of the boat. The boat,
-meanwhile, had been thoroughly scrubbed. It looked clean before, but I
-was not going to take any chances at carrying Indian live-stock along
-with his boat. My surplus baggage was sent on to Los Angeles, and
-twenty-four hours after I had landed in Needles, I was ready to
-embark.
-
-My experience in camping trips of various sorts has been that the
-start from headquarters occupies more time than any similar
+the ocean, they said, since the break into Salton Sea, but spread
+over a cane-brake, thirty miles or more in width. Many people had
+gone into these swamps and never returned, whether lost in the
+jungles or killed by the Cocopah Indians, no one knew. They simply
+disappeared. It was all very alluring.
+
+My preparations, the next day, were few. I had included a sleeping
+bag with my baggage. It would come in equally handy whether I went
+down on the Colorado or up into the Coast Range. A frying-pan, a
+coffee-pot a few metal dishes and provisions for a week were all I
+needed. Someone suggested some bent poles, and a cover, such as are
+used on wagons to keep off the sun. This seemed like a good idea;
+and I hunted up a carpenter who did odd jobs. He did not have such a
+one, but he did have an old wagon-seat cover, which could be raised
+or dropped at will. This was even better, for sometimes hard winds
+sweep up the river. The cover was fastened to the sides of the boat.
+The boat, meanwhile, had been thoroughly scrubbed. It looked clean
+before, but I was not going to take any chances at carrying Indian
+live-stock along with his boat. My surplus baggage was sent on to Los
+Angeles, and twenty-four hours after I had landed in Needles, I was
+ready to embark.
+
+My experience in camping trips of various sorts has been that
+the start from headquarters occupies more time than any similar
 preparation. Once on the road, things naturally arrange themselves
 into some kind of a system, and an hour on the road in the evening
 means several hours gained the next morning. Added to this, there are
-always a number of loafers about railroad towns, and small things have
-a way of disappearing. With this in mind, I determined to make my
-start that evening, and at 7 P.M. on the 23d of May, 1913, I embarked
-on a six to eight mile an hour current, paced by cottonwood logs,
-carried down by the flood from the head waters in Wyoming, Utah, and
-Colorado.
+always a number of loafers about railroad towns, and small things
+have a way of disappearing. With this in mind, I determined to make
+my start that evening, and at 7 P.M. on the 23d of May, 1913, I
+embarked on a six to eight mile an hour current, paced by cottonwood
+logs, carried down by the flood from the head waters in Wyoming,
+Utah, and Colorado.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE GRAND CANYON FROM THE HEAD OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.]
 
 When sailing on the unruffled current one did not notice its
 swiftness--it sped so quietly yet at the same time with such deadly
@@ -7074,35 +7332,38 @@ intent--until some half submerged cottonwood snags appeared, their
 jagged, broken limbs ploughing the stream exactly like the bow of a
 motor-driven boat, throwing two diverging lines of waves far down the
 stream. One would almost think the boat was motionless, it raced so
-smoothly,--and that the snags were tearing upstream as a river man had
-said, the day before, "like a dog with a bone in his teeth." A sunken
-stone-boat, with a cabin half submerged, seemed propelled by some
-unseen power and rapidly dwindled in the distance.
+smoothly,--and that the snags were tearing upstream as a river man
+had said, the day before, “like a dog with a bone in his teeth.” A
+sunken stone-boat, with a cabin half submerged, seemed propelled by
+some unseen power and rapidly dwindled in the distance.
 
 So fascinating were these things that I forgot the approaching night.
 I first noticed it when the stream slackened its mad pace and spread
 over its banks into great wide marshes, in divided and subdivided
-channels and over submerged islands, with nothing but willow and fuzzy
-cattail tops to indicate that there was a bottom underneath. Here
-there was no place to camp had I wished to do so. Once I missed the
-main channel and had a difficult time in finding my way back in the
-dark. After two or three miles of this quiet current, the streams
+channels and over submerged islands, with nothing but willow and
+fuzzy cattail tops to indicate that there was a bottom underneath.
+Here there was no place to camp had I wished to do so. Once I missed
+the main channel and had a difficult time in finding my way back in
+the dark. After two or three miles of this quiet current, the streams
 began to unite again, and the river regained its former speed. I was
 growing weary after the first excitement, and began to wish myself
 well out of it all and safely anchored to the shore. But I knew there
-was a level bank above the river close to the bridge, which would make
-a good camping place; so I rested on my oars facing down the stream
-with eyes and ears alert for the treacherous snags. Then the stars
-began to appear, one by one, lighting up the cloudless sky; a moist,
-tropical-like breeze moved up the stream, the channel narrowed and
-deepened, the snags vanished, and the stream increased its swiftness.
-
-And with eyes wide open, but unseeing, I dozed. It was the lights of a
-passenger train crossing the bridge, just a short distance away, that
-made me realize where I was. The train thundered into the darkness;
-but louder than the roar of the train was that of the water directly
-ahead, and hidden in the impenetrable shadow over on the right shore
-was a noise much like that made by a Grand Canyon rapid.
+was a level bank above the river close to the bridge, which would
+make a good camping place; so I rested on my oars facing down the
+stream with eyes and ears alert for the treacherous snags. Then the
+stars began to appear, one by one, lighting up the cloudless sky; a
+moist, tropical-like breeze moved up the stream, the channel narrowed
+and deepened, the snags vanished, and the stream increased its
+swiftness.
+
+And with eyes wide open, but unseeing, I dozed.
+
+It was the lights of a passenger train crossing the bridge, just a
+short distance away, that made me realize where I was. The train
+thundered into the darkness; but louder than the roar of the train
+was that of the water directly ahead, and hidden in the impenetrable
+shadow over on the right shore was a noise much like that made by a
+Grand Canyon rapid.
 
 Wide awake now, I pulled for the left, and after one or two attempts
 to land, I caught some willow tops and guided the boat to the raised
@@ -7112,24 +7373,23 @@ unrolled my sleeping bag, then went up to interview the operator and
 the watchman, and to get a drink of clear water, for I had no desire
 to drink the liquid mud of the Colorado until it was necessary. In
 answer to a question I told them of my little ride. One of the men
-exclaimed, "You don't mean to say that you came down on the flood
-after dark!" On being informed that I had just arrived, he exclaimed:
-"Well I reckon you don't know what the Colorado is. It's a wonder this
-whirlpool didn't break you against the pier. You ought to have brought
-some one with you to see you drown!"
+exclaimed, “You don’t mean to say that you came down on the flood
+after dark!” On being informed that I had just arrived, he exclaimed:
+“Well I reckon you don’t know what the Colorado is. It’s a wonder
+this whirlpool didn’t break you against the pier. You ought to have
+brought some one with you to see you drown!”
 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXV
 
-
-
 FOUR DAYS TO YUMA
 
+
 Before sunrise the following morning, I had completed my few camp
 duties, finished my breakfast and dropped my boat into the whirlpool
-above the bridge. My two friends watched the manoeuvre as I pulled
+above the bridge. My two friends watched the manœuvre as I pulled
 clear of the logs and the piers which caused the water to make such
 alarming sounds the night before; then they gave me a final word of
 caution, and the information that the Parker Bridge was sixty miles
@@ -7138,56 +7398,60 @@ They thought that I should reach Yuma in a week. It seemed but a few
 minutes until the bridge was a mile up the stream. Now I was truly
 embarked for the gulf.
 
-By the time I had reached the spire-like mountainous rocks a few miles
-below the bridge, which gave the town of Needles its name, the sun was
-well up and I was beginning to learn what desert heat was, although I
-had little time to think of it as I was kept so busy with my boat.
-Here, the stream which was spread a mile wide above, had choked down
-to two hundred feet; small violent whirlpools formed at the abrupt
-turns in this so-called canyon and the water tore from side to side.
-In one whirl my boat was twice carried around the circle into which I
-had allowed it to be caught, then shot out on the pounding flood. Soon
-the slag-like mountains were passed and the country began to spread,
-first in a high barren land, then with a bottom land running back from
-the river. The willow bushes changed to willow trees, tall and
-spindly, crowded in a thicket down to the river's edge. The Chemehuevi
-Indians have their reservation here. On rounding an abrupt turn I
-surprised two little naked children, fat as butterballs, dabbling in a
-mud puddle close to the stream. The sight, coupled with the
-tropical-like heat and the jungle, could well make one imagine he was
-in Africa or India, and that the little brown bodies were the
-"alligator bait" of which we read. Only the 'gators were missing. The
-unexpected sight of a boat and a white man trying to photograph them
-started them both into a frightened squall. Then an indignant mother
-appeared, staring at me as though she would like to know what I had
-done to her offspring. Farther along were other squaws, with red and
-blue lines pencilled on their childlike, contented faces, seated under
-the willows. Their cotton garments, of red and blue bandanna
-handkerchiefs sewed together, added a gay bit of colour to the scene.
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  THE CORK SCREW: LOWER END OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.]
+
+By the time I had reached the spire-like mountainous rocks a few
+miles below the bridge, which gave the town of Needles its name, the
+sun was well up and I was beginning to learn what desert heat was,
+although I had little time to think of it as I was kept so busy with
+my boat. Here, the stream which was spread a mile wide above, had
+choked down to two hundred feet; small violent whirlpools formed at
+the abrupt turns in this so-called canyon and the water tore from
+side to side. In one whirl my boat was twice carried around the
+circle into which I had allowed it to be caught, then shot out on
+the pounding flood. Soon the slag-like mountains were passed and the
+country began to spread, first in a high barren land, then with a
+bottom land running back from the river. The willow bushes changed
+to willow trees, tall and spindly, crowded in a thicket down to the
+river’s edge. The Chemehuevi Indians have their reservation here.
+On rounding an abrupt turn I surprised two little naked children,
+fat as butterballs, dabbling in a mud puddle close to the stream.
+The sight, coupled with the tropical-like heat and the jungle, could
+well make one imagine he was in Africa or India, and that the little
+brown bodies were the “alligator bait” of which we read. Only the
+’gators were missing. The unexpected sight of a boat and a white man
+trying to photograph them started them both into a frightened squall.
+Then an indignant mother appeared, staring at me as though she would
+like to know what I had done to her offspring. Farther along were
+other squaws, with red and blue lines pencilled on their childlike,
+contented faces, seated under the willows. Their cotton garments, of
+red and blue bandanna handkerchiefs sewed together, added a gay bit
+of colour to the scene.
 
 Below this were two or three cozy little ranch houses and a few
 scattered cattle ranches, with cattle browsing back in the trees. All
 this time it was getting hotter, and I was thankful for my sheltering
 cover. My lunch, prepared in the morning, was eaten as I drifted.
-Except in a few quiet stretches I did little rowing, just enough to
-keep the boat away from the overhanging banks and in the strong
+Except in a few quiet stretches I did little rowing, just enough
+to keep the boat away from the overhanging banks and in the strong
 current.
 
 The bottom lands began to build up again with banks of gravel and
-clay, growing higher with every mile. The deciduous trees gave way to
-the desert growths: the cholla, "the shower of gold," and the palo
-verde and the other acacias. Here were the California or valley-quail;
-and lean, long-legged jack-rabbits. Here too were the coyotes, leaner
-than the rabbits, but efficient, shifty-eyed, and insolent. One could
-admire but could hardly respect them.
+clay, growing higher with every mile. The deciduous trees gave
+way to the desert growths: the cholla, “the shower of gold,” and
+the palo verde and the other acacias. Here were the California or
+valley-quail; and lean, long-legged jack-rabbits. Here too were the
+coyotes, leaner than the rabbits, but efficient, shifty-eyed, and
+insolent. One could admire but could hardly respect them.
 
 I had entertained hopes of reaching Parker that evening, but supposed
 the hour would be late if I reached it at all. Imagine my surprise,
 then, when at half-past four I heard the whistle of a train, and
 another turn revealed the Parker bridge. I had been told by others
-that it had taken them three or four days to reach this point on a low
-stage of water. Evidently the high water is much better for rapid and
-interesting travel.
+that it had taken them three or four days to reach this point on a
+low stage of water. Evidently the high water is much better for rapid
+and interesting travel.
 
 Here at the bridge, which was a hundred feet above the river, was a
 dredge, and an old flat-bottomed steamboat, a relic of a few years
@@ -7203,64 +7467,66 @@ low water the channels shifted back and forth first choked with sand
 on one side of the stream, then on the other. While the total fall
 from Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles, to the Gulf is only 525
 feet, considerable of that fall came in short sections, first with a
-swift descent, then in a quiet stretch. Even in the high-water stage I
-was finding some such places.
+swift descent, then in a quiet stretch. Even in the high-water stage
+I was finding some such places.
 
 Parker stood a mile back from the river, on top of the level gravelly
 earth which stretched for miles on either side of the river clear to
-the mountains. This earth and gravel mixture was so firmly packed that
-even the cactus had a scant foothold. The town interested me for one
-reason only, this being, that I could get my meals for the evening and
-the following morning, instead of having to cook them myself. After I
-had eaten them, however, there was a question in my mind if my own
-cooking, bad as it was, would not have answered the purpose just as
-well. The place was a new railroad town on an Indian reservation, a
-town of great expectations, somewhat deferred.
+the mountains. This earth and gravel mixture was so firmly packed
+that even the cactus had a scant foothold. The town interested me
+for one reason only, this being, that I could get my meals for the
+evening and the following morning, instead of having to cook them
+myself. After I had eaten them, however, there was a question in my
+mind if my own cooking, bad as it was, would not have answered the
+purpose just as well. The place was a new railroad town on an Indian
+reservation, a town of great expectations, somewhat deferred.
 
 It was not as interesting to me as my next stop at Ahrenburg, some
-fifty miles below Parker. This place while nothing but a collection of
-dilapidated adobe buildings, had an air of romance about it which was
-missing in the newer town. Ahrenburg had seen its day. Many years ago
-it was a busy mining camp, and the hope is entertained by the faithful
-who still reside in its picturesque adobe homes that it will come back
-with renewed vigour. Here at Ahrenburg I met a character who added
-greatly to the interest of my stay. He was a gigantic, raw-boned
-Frenchman, at that time engaged in the construction of a motor boat;
-but a miner, a sailor, and a soldier of fortune in many ways, one who
-had pried into many of the hidden corners of the country and had a
-graphic way of describing what he had seen. I was his guest until late
-that night, and was entertained royally on what humble fare he had to
-offer. We both intended to renew our acquaintance in the morning, but
-some prowling Mexicans near my boat, croaking frogs, and swarms of
-mosquitos gave me a restless night. With the first glimmer of daylight
-I was up, and half an hour later I was away on the flood.
-
-This was my big day. The current was better than much of that above; I
-was getting used to the heat, and, instead of idly drifting, I pulled
-steadily at the oars. The river twisted back and forth in great loops
-with the strong current, as is usual, always on the outside of the
-loops, close to the overhanging banks. I would keep my boat in this
-current, with a wary lookout over my shoulder for fallen trees and
-sudden turns, which had a way of appearing when least expected. At
-some such places the stream was engaged at undermining the banks which
-rose eight and ten feet above the water. Occasional sections,
-containing tons of earth and covered with tall, slender willow trees,
-would topple over, falling on the water with the roar of a cannon or a
-continued salute of cannons; for the falling, once started, quite
-often extended for half a mile down the stream. At one such place
-eighteen trees fell in three minutes, and it would be safe to say that
-a hundred trees were included in the extended fall. The trees, sixty
-feet high, resembled a field of gigantic grass or unripened grain; the
-river was a reaper, cutting it away at the roots. Over they tumbled to
-be buried in the stream; the water would swirl and boil, earth and
-trees would disappear; then the mass of leaf-covered timber, freed of
-the earth, would wash away to lodge on the first sand-bar, and the
-formation of a new island or a new shore would begin.
+fifty miles below Parker. This place while nothing but a collection
+of dilapidated adobe buildings, had an air of romance about it which
+was missing in the newer town. Ahrenburg had seen its day. Many years
+ago it was a busy mining camp, and the hope is entertained by the
+faithful who still reside in its picturesque adobe homes that it will
+come back with renewed vigour. Here at Ahrenburg I met a character
+who added greatly to the interest of my stay. He was a gigantic,
+raw-boned Frenchman, at that time engaged in the construction of
+a motor boat; but a miner, a sailor, and a soldier of fortune in
+many ways, one who had pried into many of the hidden corners of
+the country and had a graphic way of describing what he had seen.
+I was his guest until late that night, and was entertained royally
+on what humble fare he had to offer. We both intended to renew our
+acquaintance in the morning, but some prowling Mexicans near my boat,
+croaking frogs, and swarms of mosquitos gave me a restless night.
+With the first glimmer of daylight I was up, and half an hour later I
+was away on the flood.
+
+This was my big day. The current was better than much of that above;
+I was getting used to the heat, and, instead of idly drifting, I
+pulled steadily at the oars. The river twisted back and forth in
+great loops with the strong current, as is usual, always on the
+outside of the loops, close to the overhanging banks. I would keep my
+boat in this current, with a wary lookout over my shoulder for fallen
+trees and sudden turns, which had a way of appearing when least
+expected. At some such places the stream was engaged at undermining
+the banks which rose eight and ten feet above the water. Occasional
+sections, containing tons of earth and covered with tall, slender
+willow trees, would topple over, falling on the water with the roar
+of a cannon or a continued salute of cannons; for the falling, once
+started, quite often extended for half a mile down the stream. At
+one such place eighteen trees fell in three minutes, and it would
+be safe to say that a hundred trees were included in the extended
+fall. The trees, sixty feet high, resembled a field of gigantic grass
+or unripened grain; the river was a reaper, cutting it away at the
+roots. Over they tumbled to be buried in the stream; the water would
+swirl and boil, earth and trees would disappear; then the mass of
+leaf-covered timber, freed of the earth, would wash away to lodge on
+the first sand-bar, and the formation of a new island or a new shore
+would begin.
 
 Then again, the banks were barren, composed of gravel and clay,
 centuries older than the verdure-covered land, undisturbed, possibly,
-since some glacial period deposited it there. But a shifting of the
-channel directed the attack against these banks. Here the swift
+since some glacial period deposited it there. But a shifting of
+the channel directed the attack against these banks. Here the swift
 current would find a little irregularity on the surface and would
 begin its cutting. The sand-laden water bored exactly like an auger,
 in fast-cutting whirls. One such place I watched for a half-hour from
@@ -7271,69 +7537,73 @@ escape a ducking in the resulting wave.
 Below this, instead of a firm earth, it was a loose sand and gravel
 mixture twenty feet above the river. Here for half a mile the entire
 bank was moving, slowly at the top, gathering speed at the bottom.
-While close to this I heard a peculiar hissing as of carbonated water
-all about me. At first I thought there were mineral springs
+While close to this I heard a peculiar hissing as of carbonated
+water all about me. At first I thought there were mineral springs
 underneath, but found the noise was caused by breaking air bubbles
 carried under the stream with the sands. All this day such phenomena
 continued, sliding sand-banks and tumbling jungles. In these latter
 places some cattle had suffered. Their trails ran parallel with the
 stream. No doubt they had one or two places where they drank cut down
-to the stream Knowing nothing of the cutting underneath, they had been
-precipitated into the flood, and now their carcasses were food for
-swarms of vultures gathered for an unholy feast.
+to the stream. Knowing nothing of the cutting underneath, they had
+been precipitated into the flood, and now their carcasses were food
+for swarms of vultures gathered for an unholy feast.
 
-What powerful, graceful birds these scavengers are, stronger than the
-eagle even, tireless and seemingly motionless as they drift along
+What powerful, graceful birds these scavengers are, stronger than
+the eagle even, tireless and seemingly motionless as they drift along
 searching every nook and cranny for their provender! But aside from a
 grudgingly given tribute of admiration for their power, one has about
-as much respect for them as for the equally graceful rattlesnake, that
-other product of nature which flourishes in this desert land.
+as much respect for them as for the equally graceful rattlesnake,
+that other product of nature which flourishes in this desert land.
 
 The bird life along this lower part of the river was wonderful in its
 variety. The birds of the desert mingled with those of the fertile
 lands. The song-birds vied with those of gorgeous plume. Water-birds
-disported themselves in the mud-banks and sloughs. The smaller birds
-seemed to pay little attention to the nearness of the hawks.
-Kingfisher perched on limbs overhanging the quiet pools, ready to drop
-at the faintest movement on the opaque water; the road-runner chased
-the festive lizard on the desert land back of the willows. Here also
-in the mesquite and giant cactus were thrush and Western meadow-larks
-and mocking-birds mimicking the call of the cat-bird. Down in the
-brush by the river was the happy little water-ousel, as cheerful in
-his way as the dumpy-built musical canyon wren. The Mexican crossbill
-appeared to have little fear of the migrating Northern shrike. There
-were warblers, cardinals, tanagers, waxwings, song-sparrows, and
-chickadees. Flitting droves of bush-tit dropped on to slender weeds,
-scarcely bending them, so light were they. Then in a minute they were
-gone. In the swamps or marshes were countless red-winged blackbirds.
+disported themselves in the mud-banks and sloughs. The smaller
+birds seemed to pay little attention to the nearness of the hawks.
+Kingfisher perched on limbs overhanging the quiet pools, ready to
+drop at the faintest movement on the opaque water; the road-runner
+chased the festive lizard on the desert land back of the willows.
+Here also in the mesquite and giant cactus were thrush and Western
+meadow-larks and mocking-birds mimicking the call of the cat-bird.
+Down in the brush by the river was the happy little water-ousel,
+as cheerful in his way as the dumpy-built musical canyon wren. The
+Mexican crossbill appeared to have little fear of the migrating
+Northern shrike. There were warblers, cardinals, tanagers, waxwings,
+song-sparrows, and chickadees. Flitting droves of bush-tit dropped
+on to slender weeds, scarcely bending them, so light were they. Then
+in a minute they were gone. In the swamps or marshes were countless
+red-winged blackbirds.
 
 The most unobservant person could not help but see birds here. I had
 expected to find water-fowl, for the Colorado delta is their breeding
 place; but I little expected to find so many land birds in the trees
-along the river. Instead of having a lonesome trip, every minute was
-filled with something new, interesting, and beautiful and I was having
-the time of my life.
+along the river. Instead of having a lonesome trip, every minute
+was filled with something new, interesting, and beautiful and I was
+having the time of my life.
 
 I camped that night at Picachio,--meaning the Pocket,--eighty miles
 below Ahrenburg. This is still a mining district, but the pockets
 containing nuggets of gold which gave the place its name seem to have
-all been discovered at the time of the boom; the mining now done is in
-quartz ledges up on the sides of grim, mineral-stained hills. I was
-back in the land of rock again, a land showing the forces of nature in
-high points of foreign rock, shot up from beneath, penetrating the
-crust of the earth and in a few places emerging for a height of two
-hundred feet from the river itself, forming barren islands and great
-circling whirlpools, as large as that in the Niagara gorge, and I
-thought, for a while, almost as powerful. In one I attempted to keep
-to the short side of the river, but found it a difficult job, and one
-which took three times as long to accomplish as if I had allowed
-myself to be carried around the circle.
+all been discovered at the time of the boom; the mining now done is
+in quartz ledges up on the sides of grim, mineral-stained hills.
+I was back in the land of rock again, a land showing the forces
+of nature in high points of foreign rock, shot up from beneath,
+penetrating the crust of the earth and in a few places emerging for
+a height of two hundred feet from the river itself, forming barren
+islands and great circling whirlpools, as large as that in the
+Niagara gorge, and I thought, for a while, almost as powerful. In one
+I attempted to keep to the short side of the river, but found it a
+difficult job, and one which took three times as long to accomplish
+as if I had allowed myself to be carried around the circle.
+
+  [Illustration:                             _Copyright by Kolb Bros._
+  ZOROASTER TEMPLE: FROM THE END OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.]
 
 Then the land became level again, and the Chocolate Mountains were
-seen to the west. A hard wind blew across the stream, so that I had to
-drop my sunshade to prevent being carried against the rocks. This day
-I passed a large irrigation canal leading off from the stream, the
-second such on the entire course of the Colorado. Here a friendly
+seen to the west. A hard wind blew across the stream, so that I had
+to drop my sunshade to prevent being carried against the rocks. This
+day I passed a large irrigation canal leading off from the stream,
+the second such on the entire course of the Colorado. Here a friendly
 ranchman called to me from the shore and warned me of the Laguna dam
 some distance below. He said the water was backed up for three miles,
 so I would know when I was approaching it.
@@ -7344,42 +7614,42 @@ a mile wide, still ran with a powerful current; I ceased rowing and
 drifted down, over waves much like those one would find on a lake
 driven by a heavy wind. I saw some high poles and a heavy electric
 cable stretched across the stream, and concluded that this was the
-beginning of the dam. I began to look ahead for some sign of a barrier
-across the stream, far below, but I could see nothing of the kind;
-then as I neared the poles it suddenly dawned on me that there was no
-raised barrier which diverted all the water through a sluice, but a
-submerged dam, over which the flood poured, and that the poles were on
-that dam.
+beginning of the dam. I began to look ahead for some sign of a
+barrier across the stream, far below, but I could see nothing of the
+kind; then as I neared the poles it suddenly dawned on me that there
+was no raised barrier which diverted all the water through a sluice,
+but a submerged dam, over which the flood poured, and that the poles
+were on that dam.
 
 My sail-like sunshade was dropped as quickly as I could do it, and,
 grabbing the oars, I began to pull for the California shore.
 
 It was fortunate for me that I happened to be comparatively near the
 shore when I began rowing. As it was, I landed below the diverting
-canal, and about a hundred yards above the dam. On examination the dam
-proved to be a slope about fifty feet long. A man in charge of the
-machinery controlling the gates told me that the dam lacked seven feet
-of being a mile wide, and that approximately seven feet of water was
-going over the entire dam.
-
-Great cement blocks and rocks had been dropped promiscuously below the
-dam to prevent it from being undermined. Even without the rocks it was
-doubtful if an uncovered boat could go through without upsetting. The
-great force of the water made a trough four or five feet lower than
-the river level, all water coming down the slope shooting underneath,
-while the river rolled back upstream. On two occasions boatmen had
-been carried over the dam. In each case the boat was wrecked, but the
-occupants were thrown out and escaped uninjured. I could not help but
-be amused, and feel a little uncomfortable too, when I saw how nearly
-I came to being wrecked here, after having escaped that fate in the
-rapids of the canyons.
+canal, and about a hundred yards above the dam. On examination the
+dam proved to be a slope about fifty feet long. A man in charge of
+the machinery controlling the gates told me that the dam lacked seven
+feet of being a mile wide, and that approximately seven feet of water
+was going over the entire dam.
+
+Great cement blocks and rocks had been dropped promiscuously
+below the dam to prevent it from being undermined. Even without
+the rocks it was doubtful if an uncovered boat could go through
+without upsetting. The great force of the water made a trough four
+or five feet lower than the river level, all water coming down the
+slope shooting underneath, while the river rolled back upstream.
+On two occasions boatmen had been carried over the dam. In each
+case the boat was wrecked, but the occupants were thrown out and
+escaped uninjured. I could not help but be amused, and feel a little
+uncomfortable too, when I saw how nearly I came to being wrecked
+here, after having escaped that fate in the rapids of the canyons.
 
 I ran my boat back to the diverting canal, then rowed down to the
 massive cement gates, which looked to me like a small replica of some
 of the locks on the Panama Canal. With the help of an Indian who was
-ready for a job my boat was taken out, rolled around the buildings on
-some sections of pipe, and slid over the bank into the canal below the
-gates.
+ready for a job my boat was taken out, rolled around the buildings
+on some sections of pipe, and slid over the bank into the canal below
+the gates.
 
 In spite of a desire to spend some time inspecting the machinery of
 this great work,--which, with the canal and other improvements, had
@@ -7405,12 +7675,12 @@ Somewhere in the dark, I never knew just when, I passed the mouth of
 the Gila River. In a similar way in broad daylight I had passed the
 Bill Williams Fork above Ahrenburg.
 
-At last I neared the town. I could discern some buildings on top of a
-small hill, evidently one of the back streets of Yuma. After tying my
-boat, I hid my small load in some mesquite trees, then climbed the
+At last I neared the town. I could discern some buildings on top of
+a small hill, evidently one of the back streets of Yuma. After tying
+my boat, I hid my small load in some mesquite trees, then climbed the
 hill and passed between two peculiar stone houses dark as dungeons.
-They puzzled me from the outside, but when once past them, I was no
-longer in doubt. I had entered the open gateway leading to the
+They puzzled me from the outside, but when once past them, I was
+no longer in doubt. I had entered the open gateway leading to the
 courtyard of the Yuma penitentiary. No wonder the buildings looked
 like dungeons. This was a new experience for me, but somehow I had
 always imagined just how it would look. I was considering beating a
@@ -7424,22 +7694,21 @@ bridge.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI
 
-
-
 ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER
 
-"Mexico is a good place to keep away from just at present." This was
+
+“Mexico is a good place to keep away from just at present.” This was
 the invariable answer to a few casual inquiries concerning what I
 would be likely to meet with in the way of difficulties, a possible
 companion for the voyage to the Gulf, and how one could get back when
 once there. I received little encouragement from the people of Yuma.
 The cautions came not from the timid who see danger in every rumour,
-but from the old steamboat captains, the miners, and prospectors who
-knew the country and had interests in mineral claims across the
+but from the old steamboat captains, the miners, and prospectors
+who knew the country and had interests in mineral claims across the
 border. These claims they had lost in many cases because they had
 failed for the last two years to keep up their assessment work. There
 were vague suggestions of being stood up against an adobe wall with a
-row of "yaller bellies" in front, or being thrown into damp dungeons
+row of “yaller bellies” in front, or being thrown into damp dungeons
 and held for a ransom.
 
 The steamboat men could give me little information about the river.
@@ -7450,29 +7719,29 @@ ancient course of the Colorado, known as the Hardy or False Colorado.
 As nearly as I could learn no one from Yuma had been through this new
 channel beyond a certain point called Volcanic Lake. Two or three
 parties had come back with stories of having attempted it, but found
-themselves in the middle of a cane-brake with insufficient water to
-float a boat. With a desire to be of real assistance to me, one old
-captain called a Yuma Indian into his office and asked him his
+themselves in the middle of a cane-brake with insufficient water
+to float a boat. With a desire to be of real assistance to me, one
+old captain called a Yuma Indian into his office and asked him his
 opinion, suggesting that he might go along.
 
-"Mebbe so get lost in the trees, mebbe so get shot by the Cocopah,"
+“Mebbe so get lost in the trees, mebbe so get shot by the Cocopah,”
 the Indian replied as he shook his head.
 
 The captain laughed at the last and said that the Yuma and Cocopah
-Indians were not the best of friends, and accused each other of all
-sorts of things which neither had committed. Some Mexicans and certain
-outlawed whites who kept close to the border for different reasons,
-and the possibilities of bogging in a cane-brake were the only
-uncertainties. In so many words he advised me against going.
+Indians were not the best of friends, and accused each other of
+all sorts of things which neither had committed. Some Mexicans and
+certain outlawed whites who kept close to the border for different
+reasons, and the possibilities of bogging in a cane-brake were the
+only uncertainties. In so many words he advised me against going.
 
 Still I persevered. I had planned so long on completing my boating
 trip to the Gulf, that I disliked to abandon the idea altogether. I
 felt sure, with a flood on the Colorado, there would be some channel
 that a flat-bottomed boat could go through, when travelling with the
 current; but the return trip and the chances of being made a target
-for some hidden native who had lived on this unfriendly border and had
-as much reason for respecting some citizens of the United States as
-our own Indians had in the frontier days, caused me considerable
+for some hidden native who had lived on this unfriendly border and
+had as much reason for respecting some citizens of the United States
+as our own Indians had in the frontier days, caused me considerable
 concern. I knew it was customary everywhere to make much of the
 imaginary dangers, as we had found in our other journeys; but it is
 not difficult to discriminate between sound advice and the croakings
@@ -7480,141 +7749,146 @@ which are based on lack of real information. I knew this was sound
 advice, and as usual I disliked to follow it. At last I got some
 encouragement. It came from a retired Wild West showman,--the real
 thing, one who knew the West from its early days. He laughed at the
-idea of danger and said I was not likely to find any one, even if I
-was anxious to do so, until I got to the La Bolso Ranch near the Gulf.
-They would be glad to see me. He thought it was likely to prove
+idea of danger and said I was not likely to find any one, even if
+I was anxious to do so, until I got to the La Bolsa Ranch near the
+Gulf. They would be glad to see me. He thought it was likely to prove
 uninteresting unless I intended to hunt wild hogs, but that was
 useless without dogs, and I would have trouble getting a gun past the
-custom officers. His advice was to talk with the Mexican consul, as he
-might know some one who could bring me back by horseback.
+custom officers. His advice was to talk with the Mexican consul, as
+he might know some one who could bring me back by horseback.
 
 In the consul I found a young Spaniard, all affability, bows, and
 gestures; and without being conscious of it at first I too began
 making motions. He deplored my lack of knowledge of the Spanish
-language, laughed at any suggestion of trouble, as all trouble was in
-Eastern Sonora, he said, separated from the coast by two hundred miles
-of desert, and stated that the non-resident owner of the La Bolsa
-cattle ranch happened to be in the building at that moment. In a
-twinkling he had me before him and explained the situation. This
-gentleman, the owner of a 600,000-acre grant, and the fishing
+language, laughed at any suggestion of trouble, as all trouble was
+in Eastern Sonora, he said, separated from the coast by two hundred
+miles of desert, and stated that the non-resident owner of the La
+Bolsa cattle ranch happened to be in the building at that moment.
+In a twinkling he had me before him and explained the situation.
+This gentleman, the owner of a 600,000-acre grant, and the fishing
 concession of the Gulf, stated that the ranch drove a team to Yuma
 once a week, that they would bring me back; in the interval I must
-consider myself the guest of the Rancho La Bolsa. The consul gave me a
-passport, and so it was all arranged.
-
-In spite of the consul's opinion, there were many whispered rumours of
-war, of silent automobiles loaded with firearms that stole out of town
-under cover of the night and returned in four days, and another of a
-river channel that could be followed and was followed, the start being
-made, not from Yuma, but from another border town farther west. A year
-before there had been an outbreak at this place of certain restless
-spirits,--some whites included,--and they went along the northern line
-of Mexico, sacking the ranches and terrorizing the people. The La
-Bolsa ranch was among those that suffered. The party contained some
-discharged vaqueros who were anxious to interview the ranch foreman,
-but fortunately for him he was absent. Then they turned south to
-Chihuahua and joined the army of Madero. War, to them, meant license
-to rob and kill. They were not insurrectos, but bandits, and this was
-the class that was most feared.
+consider myself the guest of the Rancho La Bolsa. The consul gave me
+a passport, and so it was all arranged.
+
+In spite of the consul’s opinion, there were many whispered rumours
+of war, of silent automobiles loaded with firearms that stole out of
+town under cover of the night and returned in four days, and another
+of a river channel that could be followed and was followed, the start
+being made, not from Yuma, but from another border town farther west.
+A year before there had been an outbreak at this place of certain
+restless spirits,--some whites included,--and they went along the
+northern line of Mexico, sacking the ranches and terrorizing the
+people. The La Bolsa ranch was among those that suffered. The party
+contained some discharged vaqueros who were anxious to interview
+the ranch foreman, but fortunately for him he was absent. Then they
+turned south to Chihuahua and joined the army of Madero. War, to
+them, meant license to rob and kill. They were not insurrectos, but
+bandits, and this was the class that was most feared.
 
 Meanwhile I had not given up the idea of a possible companion. Before
 coming to Yuma I had entertained hopes of getting some one with a
-motor boat to take me down and back, but there were no motor boats, I
-found. The nearest approach to a power boat was an attempt that was
-being made to install the engine from a wrecked steam auto on a sort
-of flat-bottomed scow. I heard of this boat three or four times, and
-in each case the information was accompanied by a smile and some vague
-remarks about a "hybrid." I hunted up the owner,--the proprietor of a
-shooting gallery,--a man who had once had aspirations as a
-heavy-weight prize fighter, but had met with discouragement. So he had
-turned his activities to teaching the young idea how to
-shoot--especially the "Mexican idea" and those other border spirits
+motor boat to take me down and back, but there were no motor boats,
+I found. The nearest approach to a power boat was an attempt that
+was being made to install the engine from a wrecked steam auto on
+a sort of flat-bottomed scow. I heard of this boat three or four
+times, and in each case the information was accompanied by a smile
+and some vague remarks about a “hybrid.” I hunted up the owner,--the
+proprietor of a shooting gallery,--a man who had once had aspirations
+as a heavy-weight prize fighter, but had met with discouragement.
+So he had turned his activities to teaching the young idea how to
+shoot--especially the “Mexican idea” and those other border spirits
 who were itching for a scrap.
 
 The proprietor of the shooting gallery drove a thriving trade. Since
-he had abandoned his training he had taken on fat, and I found him to
-be a genial sort of giant who refused to concern himself with the
+he had abandoned his training he had taken on fat, and I found him
+to be a genial sort of giant who refused to concern himself with the
 serious side of life. Even a lacing he had received in San Francisco
-at the hands of a negro stevedore struck him as being humorous. He did
-not seem to have much more confidence in his "power boat" than the
-others, but said I might talk with the man who was putting it
-together, ending with the remark "Phillipps thinks he can make her
-run, and he has always talked of going to the Gulf."
+at the hands of a negro stevedore struck him as being humorous. He
+did not seem to have much more confidence in his “power boat” than
+the others, but said I might talk with the man who was putting it
+together, ending with the remark “Phillipps thinks he can make her
+run, and he has always talked of going to the Gulf.”
 
 On investigation I found Al Phillipps was anxious to go to the Gulf,
 and would go along if I would wait until he got his boat in shape.
 This would take two days. Phillipps, as he told me himself, was a
 Jayhawker who had left the farm in Kansas and had gone to sea for two
 years. He was a cowboy, but had worked a year or two about mining
-engines. In Yuma he was a carpenter, but was anxious to leave and go
-prospecting along the Gulf. Phillipps and I were sure to have an
-interesting time. He spoke Spanish and did not fear any of the
+engines. In Yuma he was a carpenter, but was anxious to leave and
+go prospecting along the Gulf. Phillipps and I were sure to have
+an interesting time. He spoke Spanish and did not fear any of the
 previously mentioned so-called dangers; he had heard of one party
-being carried out to sea when the tide rushed out of the river, but as
-we would have low tide he thought that, with caution, we could avoid
-that.
+being carried out to sea when the tide rushed out of the river, but
+as we would have low tide he thought that, with caution, we could
+avoid that.
 
 At last all was ready for the momentous trial. The river bank was
-lined with a crowd of men who seemed to have plenty of leisure. Some
-long-haired Yuma Indians, and red and green turbaned Papagos, gathered
-in a group off a little to one side. A number of darkies were fishing
-for bullheads, and boys of three colors besides the Mexicans and a
-lone Chinaman clambered over the trees and the boats along the shore.
+lined with a crowd of men who seemed to have plenty of leisure.
+Some long-haired Yuma Indians, and red and green turbaned Papagos,
+gathered in a group off a little to one side. A number of darkies
+were fishing for bullheads, and boys of three colors besides the
+Mexicans and a lone Chinaman clambered over the trees and the boats
+along the shore.
+
+  [Illustration: WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON, FROM THE RIM.]
+
+  [Illustration: WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON, FROM THE RIVER.]
 
 It was a moment of suspense for Phillipps. His reputation as an
-engineer and a constructor of boats hung in the balance. He also had
-some original ideas about a rudder which had been incorporated in this
-boat. Now was his chance to test them out, and his hour of triumph if
-they worked.
+engineer and a constructor of boats hung in the balance. He also
+had some original ideas about a rudder which had been incorporated
+in this boat. Now was his chance to test them out, and his hour of
+triumph if they worked.
 
 The test was a rigid one. The boat was to be turned upstream against
 an eight-mile current with big sand-waves, beginning about sixty feet
-from the shore, running in the middle of the river. If the engine ran,
-and the stern paddle-wheel turned, his reputation was saved. If she
-was powerful enough to go against the current, it was a triumph and we
-would start for the Gulf at once.
+from the shore, running in the middle of the river. If the engine
+ran, and the stern paddle-wheel turned, his reputation was saved. If
+she was powerful enough to go against the current, it was a triumph
+and we would start for the Gulf at once.
 
 On board were Phillipps, a volunteer, and myself. Before turning the
 boat loose, the engine was tried. It was a success. The paddle-wheel
-churned the water at a great rate, sending the boat upstream as far as
-the ropes would let her go. We would try a preliminary run in the
+churned the water at a great rate, sending the boat upstream as far
+as the ropes would let her go. We would try a preliminary run in the
 quiet water close to the shore, before making the test in the swift
 current. The order was given to cast off, and for two men, the owner
 and another, to hold to the ropes and follow on the shore. The engine
 was started, the paddle-wheel revolved, slowly at first but gathering
 speed with each revolution. We began to move gently, then faster, so
 that the men on shore had difficulty in keeping even with us, impeded
-as they were with bushes and sloping banks. Flushed with success, the
-order was given to turn her loose, and we gathered in the ropes. Now
-we were drifting away from the shore and making some headway against
-the swift current. The crowd on shore was left behind.
+as they were with bushes and sloping banks. Flushed with success,
+the order was given to turn her loose, and we gathered in the ropes.
+Now we were drifting away from the shore and making some headway
+against the swift current. The crowd on shore was left behind.
 
 But as we left the bank the river increased in speed and the boat
 gradually lost. Then she stood still, but began to turn slowly,
-broadside to the current. This was something we had not foreseen. With
-no headway the rudder was of no avail. There was no sweep-oar; we had
-even neglected to put an oar on the boat. With pieces of boards the
-stranger and I paddled, trying to hold her straight, but all the time,
-in spite of our efforts, she drifted away from the land and slowly
-turned. A big sand-wave struck her, she wheeled in her tracks and
-raced straight for a pier, down the stream.
+broadside to the current. This was something we had not foreseen.
+With no headway the rudder was of no avail. There was no sweep-oar;
+we had even neglected to put an oar on the boat. With pieces of
+boards the stranger and I paddled, trying to hold her straight, but
+all the time, in spite of our efforts, she drifted away from the land
+and slowly turned. A big sand-wave struck her, she wheeled in her
+tracks and raced straight for a pier, down the stream.
 
 About this time our engineer began having trouble with his engine. At
 first we feared it would not run, now it seemed it would not stop.
 
-A great shout went up from the shore, and a bet was made that we would
-run to the Gulf in less than a day. A darky boy fell off a boat in the
-excitement, the Indians did a dance, men pounded each other and
-whooped for joy. Then a bolt came loose, and the engine ran away.
-Driving-rod and belts were whirled "regardless," as the passenger
+A great shout went up from the shore, and a bet was made that we
+would run to the Gulf in less than a day. A darky boy fell off a boat
+in the excitement, the Indians did a dance, men pounded each other
+and whooped for joy. Then a bolt came loose, and the engine ran away.
+Driving-rod and belts were whirled “regardless,” as the passenger
 afterwards said, about our heads.
 
 Then the crash came. Our efforts to escape the pier were of no avail.
 I made a puny effort to break the impact with a pole, but was sent
-sprawling on the deck. Al tumbled headlong on top of the engine, which
-he had stopped at last, our passenger rolled over and over, but we all
-stayed with the ship. Each grabbing a board, we began to paddle and
-steered the craft to the shore.
+sprawling on the deck. Al tumbled headlong on top of the engine,
+which he had stopped at last, our passenger rolled over and over,
+but we all stayed with the ship. Each grabbing a board, we began to
+paddle and steered the craft to the shore.
 
 With the excitement over, the crowd faded away. Only two or three
 willing hands remained to help us line the craft back to the landing.
@@ -7624,43 +7898,43 @@ Without a word from any one we brought the boat back to the landing.
 
 Al was the first to speak.
 
-"Well, what are you going to do?" he asked.
+“Well, what are you going to do?” he asked.
 
-"Me? I'm going to take my boat and start for the Gulf in ten minutes.
-I'll take nothing that I cannot carry. If I have to leave the river I
+“Me? I’m going to take my boat and start for the Gulf in ten minutes.
+I’ll take nothing that I cannot carry. If I have to leave the river I
 will travel light across the desert to Calexico. I think that I can
-get through. If you want to go along, I'll stick with you until we get
-back. What do you think about it?"
-
-It was a long speech and a little bitter perhaps. I felt that way. The
-disappointment on top of the three days' delay when time was precious
-could not be forgotten in a moment. And when my speech was said I was
-all through.
-
-Al said he would be ready in half an hour. Our beds were left behind.
-Al had a four-yard square of canvas for a sail. This would be
-sufficient covering at night in the hot desert. We had two canteens.
-The provisions, scarcely touched before arriving here, were sufficient
-for five days. I was so anxious to get started that I did not take the
-time to replenish them in Yuma, intending to do so at the custom-house
-on the Arizona side twelve miles below, where some one had told me
-there was a store. I counted on camping there. After a hurriedly eaten
-luncheon we were ready to start, the boat was shoved off, and we were
-embarked for Mexico.
+get through. If you want to go along, I’ll stick with you until we
+get back. What do you think about it?”
+
+It was a long speech and a little bitter perhaps. I felt that way.
+The disappointment on top of the three days’ delay when time was
+precious could not be forgotten in a moment. And when my speech was
+said I was all through.
+
+Al said he would be ready in half an hour. Our beds were left
+behind. Al had a four-yard square of canvas for a sail. This would
+be sufficient covering at night in the hot desert. We had two
+canteens. The provisions, scarcely touched before arriving here,
+were sufficient for five days. I was so anxious to get started that
+I did not take the time to replenish them in Yuma, intending to do
+so at the custom-house on the Arizona side twelve miles below, where
+some one had told me there was a store. I counted on camping there.
+After a hurriedly eaten luncheon we were ready to start, the boat was
+shoved off, and we were embarked for Mexico.
 
 Half an hour later we passed the abandoned Imperial Canal, the
 man-made channel which had nearly destroyed the vast agricultural
-lands which it had in turn created. Just such a flood as that on which
-we were travelling had torn out the insufficiently supported
-head-gates. The entire stream, instead of pushing slowly across the
-delta, weltering in its own silt to the Gulf, poured into the bottom
-of the basin nearly four hundred feet below the top of this silt-made
-dam. In a single night it cut an eighty-foot channel in the unyielding
-soil, and what had once been the northern end of the California Gulf
-was turned into an inland sea, filled with the turbid waters of the
-Colorado, instead of the sparkling waters of the ocean. Nothing but an
-almost superhuman fight finally rescued the land from the grip of the
-water.
+lands which it had in turn created. Just such a flood as that on
+which we were travelling had torn out the insufficiently supported
+head-gates. The entire stream, instead of pushing slowly across
+the delta, weltering in its own silt to the Gulf, poured into the
+bottom of the basin nearly four hundred feet below the top of this
+silt-made dam. In a single night it cut an eighty-foot channel in
+the unyielding soil, and what had once been the northern end of the
+California Gulf was turned into an inland sea, filled with the turbid
+waters of the Colorado, instead of the sparkling waters of the ocean.
+Nothing but an almost superhuman fight finally rescued the land from
+the grip of the water.
 
 A short distance below, just across the Mexican line, on the
 California side, was the new canal, dug in a firmer soil and with
@@ -7670,34 +7944,34 @@ Half a mile away from the stream, on a spur railway, was the Mexican
 custom-house. I had imagined that it would be beside the river, and
 that guards would be seen patrolling the shore. But aside from an
 Indian fishing, there was no one to be seen. We walked out to the
-custom-house, gave a list of the few things which we had, assured them
-that we carried no guns, paid our duty, and departed. We had imagined
-that our boat would be inspected, but no one came near.
+custom-house, gave a list of the few things which we had, assured
+them that we carried no guns, paid our duty, and departed. We had
+imagined that our boat would be inspected, but no one came near.
 
 The border line makes a jog here at the river and the Arizona-Mexico
-line was still a few miles down the stream. We had passed the mouth of
-the old silt-dammed Colorado channel, which flowed a little west of
-south; and we turned instead to the west into the spreading delta or
-moraine. About this time I remarked that I had seen no store at the
-custom-house and that I must not neglect to get provisions at the next
-one or we would be rather short.
-
-"We passed our last custom-house back there." Al replied, "That's
+line was still a few miles down the stream. We had passed the mouth
+of the old silt-dammed Colorado channel, which flowed a little west
+of south; and we turned instead to the west into the spreading delta
+or moraine. About this time I remarked that I had seen no store at
+the custom-house and that I must not neglect to get provisions at the
+next one or we would be rather short.
+
+“We passed our last custom-house back there.” Al replied, “That’s
 likely the last place we will see until we get to the ranch by the
-Gulf."
+Gulf.”
 
-No custom-house! No store! This was a surprise. What was a border for
-if not to have custom-houses and inspectors? With all the talk of
-smuggling I had not thought of anything else. And I could tell by Al's
-tone that his estimation of my foresight had dropped several degrees.
-This was only natural, for his disappointment and the jibes still
-rankled.
+No custom-house! No store! This was a surprise. What was a border
+for if not to have custom-houses and inspectors? With all the talk
+of smuggling I had not thought of anything else. And I could tell by
+Al’s tone that his estimation of my foresight had dropped several
+degrees. This was only natural, for his disappointment and the jibes
+still rankled.
 
 At last we were wholly in Mexican territory. With the States behind,
-all of our swiftly running water had departed, and we now travelled on
-a stream that was nearly stagnant. All the cottonwood logs which had
-finally been carried down the stream after having been deposited on a
-hundred shores, found here their final resting place. About each
+all of our swiftly running water had departed, and we now travelled
+on a stream that was nearly stagnant. All the cottonwood logs which
+had finally been carried down the stream after having been deposited
+on a hundred shores, found here their final resting place. About each
 cluster of logs an island was forming, covered with a rank grass and
 tules.
 
@@ -7708,101 +7982,108 @@ way. All channels looked alike, but only one was deep.
 Then the willow trees which were far distant on either shore began to
 close in and we travelled in a channel not more than a hundred feet
 wide, growing smaller with every mile. This new channel is sometimes
-termed the Bee River. It parallels the northern Mexico line; it also
-parallels a twenty-five mile levee which the United States government
-has constructed along the northern edge of this fifty-mile wide dam
-shoved across the California Gulf by the stream, building higher every
-year. Except for the river channel the dam may be said to reach
-unbroken from the Arizona-Sonora Mesa to the Cocopah Mountains. The
-levee runs from a point of rocks near the river to Lone Mountain, a
-solitary peak some distance east of the main range. This levee, built
-since the trouble with the canal, is all that prevents the water from
-breaking into the basin in a dozen places.
-
-We saw signs of two or three camp-fires close to the stream, and with
-the memory of the stories haunting us a little we built only a small
-fire when we cooked our evening meal, then extinguished it, and camped
-on a dry point of land a mile or two below. I think we were both a
-little nervous that night; I confess that I was, and if an unwashed
-black-bearded individual had poked his head out from the willows and
-said, "Woof!" or whatever it is that they say when they want to start
-up a jack-rabbit, we would both have stampeded clear across the
-border. In fact I felt a little as I did when I played truant from
-school and wondered what would happen when I was found out.
+termed the Bee River. It parallels the northern Mexico line; it
+also parallels a twenty-five mile levee which the United States
+government has constructed along the northern edge of this fifty-mile
+wide dam shoved across the California Gulf by the stream, building
+higher every year. Except for the river channel the dam may be said
+to reach unbroken from the Arizona-Sonora Mesa to the Cocopah
+Mountains. The levee runs from a point of rocks near the river to
+Lone Mountain, a solitary peak some distance east of the main range.
+This levee, built since the trouble with the canal, is all that
+prevents the water from breaking into the basin in a dozen places.
+
+We saw signs of two or three camp-fires close to the stream, and
+with the memory of the stories haunting us a little we built only a
+small fire when we cooked our evening meal, then extinguished it,
+and camped on a dry point of land a mile or two below. I think we
+were both a little nervous that night; I confess that I was, and if
+an unwashed black-bearded individual had poked his head out from the
+willows and said, “Woof!” or whatever it is that they say when they
+want to start up a jack-rabbit, we would both have stampeded clear
+across the border. In fact I felt a little as I did when I played
+truant from school and wondered what would happen when I was found
+out.
 
 Daybreak found us ready to resume our journey, and with a rising sun
-any nervousness vanished. What could any one want with two men who had
-nothing but a flat-bottomed boat?
-
-All the morning we travelled west, the trees ever drawing closer as
-our water departed on the south, running through the willows,
-arrow-weed, and cat-tails. Then the channel opened into Volcanic Lake,
-a circular body of water, which is not a lake but simply a gathering
-together of the streams we had been losing, and here the water stands,
-depositing its mud. All the way across had no depth but a bottomless
-mud, so soft it would engulf a person if he tried to wade across.
-
-On the west there was no growth. The shore was nothing but an ash-like
-powder, not a sand, but a rich soil blown here and there, building in
-dunes against every obstruction, ever moving before the wind. Here
-were boiling, sputtering mud pots and steam vents building up and
-exhausting through mud pipe-stems, rising a foot or two above the
-springs. Here was a shelter or two of sun-warped boards constructed by
-those who come here crippled with rheumatism and are supposed to
-depart, cured. Here we saw signs of a wagon track driven toward
-Calexico, the border town directly north of the lake. The heat was
-scorching, the sun, reflected from the sand and water, was blistering,
-and we could well imagine what a walk across that ash-like soil would
-mean. Mirages in the distance beckoned, trees and lakes were seen over
-toward the mountains where we had seen nothing but desert before; heat
-waves rose and fell. Our mouths began to puff from the reflected sun,
-our faces burned and peeled, black and red in spots. There was no
-indication of the slightest breeze until about three o'clock, when the
-wind moved gently across the lake.
+any nervousness vanished. What could any one want with two men who
+had nothing but a flat-bottomed boat?
+
+All the morning we travelled west, the trees ever drawing closer
+as our water departed on the south, running through the willows,
+arrow-weed, and cat-tails. Then the channel opened into Volcanic
+Lake, a circular body of water, which is not a lake but simply a
+gathering together of the streams we had been losing, and here the
+water stands, depositing its mud. All the way across had no depth but
+a bottomless mud, so soft it would engulf a person if he tried to
+wade across.
+
+On the west there was no growth. The shore was nothing but an
+ash-like powder, not a sand, but a rich soil blown here and there,
+building in dunes against every obstruction, ever moving before
+the wind. Here were boiling, sputtering mud pots and steam vents
+building up and exhausting through mud pipe-stems, rising a foot
+or two above the springs. Here was a shelter or two of sun-warped
+boards constructed by those who come here crippled with rheumatism
+and are supposed to depart, cured. Here we saw signs of a wagon track
+driven toward Calexico, the border town directly north of the lake.
+The heat was scorching, the sun, reflected from the sand and water,
+was blistering, and we could well imagine what a walk across that
+ash-like soil would mean. Mirages in the distance beckoned, trees and
+lakes were seen over toward the mountains where we had seen nothing
+but desert before; heat waves rose and fell. Our mouths began to puff
+from the reflected sun, our faces burned and peeled, black and red in
+spots. There was no indication of the slightest breeze until about
+three o’clock, when the wind moved gently across the lake.
 
 We had skirted the northern part of the circle, passing a few small
-streams and then found one of the three large channels which empty the
-lake. As it happened we took the one on the outside, and the longest.
-The growth grew thicker than ever, the stream choked down to fifty
-feet. Now it began to loop backward and forward and back again, as
-though trying to make the longest and crookedest channel possible in
-the smallest space. The water in the channel was stagnant, swift
-streamlets rushed in from the tules on the north, and rushed out again
-on the south. It was not always a simple matter to ascertain which was
-the main channel. Others just as large were diverted from the stream.
-Twice we attempted to cut across, but the water became shallow, the
-tules stalled our boats, and we were glad to return, sounding with a
-pole when in doubt.
+streams and then found one of the three large channels which empty
+the lake. As it happened we took the one on the outside, and the
+longest. The growth grew thicker than ever, the stream choked down to
+fifty feet. Now it began to loop backward and forward and back again,
+as though trying to make the longest and crookedest channel possible
+in the smallest space. The water in the channel was stagnant, swift
+streamlets rushed in from the tules on the north, and rushed out
+again on the south. It was not always a simple matter to ascertain
+which was the main channel. Others just as large were diverted from
+the stream. Twice we attempted to cut across, but the water became
+shallow, the tules stalled our boats, and we were glad to return,
+sounding with a pole when in doubt.
 
 Then we began to realize that we were not entirely alone in this
-wilderness of water. We saw evidence of another's passage, in broken
-cat-tails and blazed trees. In many places he had pushed into the
-thickets. We concluded it must be a trapper. At last, to our surprise,
-we saw a telephone equipment, sheltered in a box nailed on a
-water-surrounded tree. The line ran directly across the stream. Here
-also we could see where a boat had forced a way through, and the water
-plants had been cut with a sharp instrument. What could it be? We were
-certain no line ran to the only ranch at the Gulf. We had information
-of another ranch directly on the border line, but did not think it
-came below the levee, and as far as we had learned, there were no
-homes but the wickiups of the Cocopah in the jungles. It was like one
-of those thrilling stories of Old Sleuth and Dead Shot Dick which we
-read, concealed in our schoolbooks, when we were supposed to be
-studying the physical geography of Mexico. But the telephone was no
-fiction, and had recently been repaired, but for what purpose it was
-there we could not imagine. After leaving the lake there was no dry
-land. At night our boat, filled with green tules for a bed, was tied
-to a willow tree, with its roots submerged in ten feet of water. Never
-were there such swarms of mosquitos. In the morning our faces were
-corrugated with lumps, not a single exposed spot remaining unbitten.
-
-The loops continued with the next day's travel, but we were gradually
-working to the southwest, then they began to straighten out somewhat,
-as the diverted streams returned. We thought early in the morning that
-we would pass about ten miles to the east of the coast range, but it
-was not to be. Directly to the base of the dark, heat-vibrating rocks
-we pulled, and landed on the first shore that we had seen for
-twenty-four hours.
+wilderness of water. We saw evidence of another’s passage, in broken
+cat-tails and blazed trees. In many places he had pushed into
+the thickets. We concluded it must be a trapper. At last, to our
+surprise, we saw a telephone equipment, sheltered in a box nailed on
+a water-surrounded tree. The line ran directly across the stream.
+Here also we could see where a boat had forced a way through, and
+the water plants had been cut with a sharp instrument. What could it
+be? We were certain no line ran to the only ranch at the Gulf. We
+had information of another ranch directly on the border line, but
+did not think it came below the levee, and as far as we had learned,
+there were no homes but the wickiups of the Cocopah in the jungles.
+It was like one of those thrilling stories of Old Sleuth and Dead
+Shot Dick which we read, concealed in our schoolbooks, when we were
+supposed to be studying the physical geography of Mexico. But the
+telephone was no fiction, and had recently been repaired, but for
+what purpose it was there we could not imagine. After leaving the
+lake there was no dry land. At night our boat, filled with green
+tules for a bed, was tied to a willow tree, with its roots submerged
+in ten feet of water. Never were there such swarms of mosquitos.
+In the morning our faces were corrugated with lumps, not a single
+exposed spot remaining unbitten.
+
+The loops continued with the next day’s travel, but we were
+gradually working to the southwest, then they began to straighten
+out somewhat, as the diverted streams returned. We thought early in
+the morning that we would pass about ten miles to the east of the
+coast range, but it was not to be. Directly to the base of the dark,
+heat-vibrating rocks we pulled, and landed on the first shore that we
+had seen for twenty-four hours.
+
+  [Illustration: A VAQUERO IN THE MAKING.]
+
+  [Illustration: CLIFF SWALLOWS’ NESTS. FOUND FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO.]
 
 Here was a recently used trail, and tracks where horses came down to
 the water. Here too was the track of a barefooted Cocopah, a tribe
@@ -7817,24 +8098,24 @@ near approach to a web-footed human being.
 
 Our stream merely touched the mountain, then turned directly to the
 southeast in a gradually increasing stream. Now we began to see the
-breeding places of the water-birds of which we had heard. There was a
-confusion of bird calls, sand-hill cranes were everywhere; in some
+breeding places of the water-birds of which we had heard. There was
+a confusion of bird calls, sand-hill cranes were everywhere; in some
 cases with five stick-built nests in a single water-killed tree. A
 blue heron flopped around as though it had broken a wing, to decoy us
 from its nest. The snowy white pelican waddled along the banks and
 mingled with the cormorants. There were great numbers of gulls, and
 occasional snipe. We were too late to see the ducks which come here,
-literally by the million, during the winter months. There were hawks'
+literally by the million, during the winter months. There were hawks’
 nests in the same groups of trees as the cranes, with the young hawks
 stretching their necks for the food which was to be had in such
 abundance. And on another tree sat the parent hawks, complacently
-looking over the nests of the other birds, like a coyote waiting for a
-horse to die. At Cocopah Mountain a golden eagle soared, coming down
-close to the ground as we rested under the mesquite. Then as we
+looking over the nests of the other birds, like a coyote waiting for
+a horse to die. At Cocopah Mountain a golden eagle soared, coming
+down close to the ground as we rested under the mesquite. Then as we
 travelled clear streams of water began to pour in from the north and
 east, those same streams we had lost above, but cleared entirely of
 their silt. Now the willows grew scarce, and instead of mud banks a
-dry, firm earth was built up from the river's edge, and the stream
+dry, firm earth was built up from the river’s edge, and the stream
 increased in size. Soon it was six or seven hundred feet wide and
 running with a fair current. This was the Hardy River. We noticed
 signs of falling water on the banks as though the stream had dropped
@@ -7844,8 +8125,8 @@ taste of water proved it. The river water was well mixed with a weak
 saline solution. We filled our canteens at once.
 
 We saw a small building and a flagpole on the south shore, but on
-nearing the place found it was deserted. A few miles below were two
-other channels equally as large as that on which we travelled,
+nearing the place found it was deserted. A few miles below were
+two other channels equally as large as that on which we travelled,
 evidently fed by streams similar to our own. There were numerous
 scattered trees, some of them cottonwood, and we saw some grazing
 cattle. We began to look for the ranch house, which some one had said
@@ -7857,36 +8138,35 @@ others told us was at the Gulf.
 
 CHAPTER XXVII
 
-
-
 THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA
 
+
 That the head of the Gulf of California has a big tide is well known.
-Choked in a narrowing cone, the waters rise higher and higher as they
-come to the apex, reaching twenty-five feet or over in a high tide.
-This causes a tidal bore to roll up the Colorado, and from all reports
-it was something to be avoided. The earliest Spanish explorers told
-some wonderful tales of being caught in this bore and of nearly losing
-their little sailing vessels.
+Choked in a narrowing cone, the waters rise higher and higher as
+they come to the apex, reaching twenty-five feet or over in a high
+tide. This causes a tidal bore to roll up the Colorado, and from
+all reports it was something to be avoided. The earliest Spanish
+explorers told some wonderful tales of being caught in this bore and
+of nearly losing their little sailing vessels.
 
 This was my first experience with river tides. It was somewhat of a
 disappointment to me that I could not arrange to be here at a high
 tide, for we had come at the first quarter of the moon. Out on the
 open sea one can usually make some headway by rowing against the ebb
-or flow of the tide: here on the Colorado, where it flowed upstream at
-a rate of from five to eight miles an hour, it was different. When we
-reached the head of the tide, it was going out. Unfortunately for us
-the day was gone when the current began to run strong. It hardly
+or flow of the tide: here on the Colorado, where it flowed upstream
+at a rate of from five to eight miles an hour, it was different. When
+we reached the head of the tide, it was going out. Unfortunately for
+us the day was gone when the current began to run strong. It hardly
 seemed advisable to travel with it after dark. We might pass the
-ranch, or be carried against a rock-bound coast, or find difficulty in
-landing and be overwhelmed by the tidal bore. So when darkness fell we
-camped pulling our boat out in a little slough to prevent it from
-being carried away. Evidently we were too near the headwaters for a
-tidal bore, for at eleven P.M. the waters turned and came back as
-quietly as they ran out.
-
-We launched our boat before the break of day, and for four hours we
-travelled on a good current. The channel now had widened to a
+ranch, or be carried against a rock-bound coast, or find difficulty
+in landing and be overwhelmed by the tidal bore. So when darkness
+fell we camped pulling our boat out in a little slough to prevent it
+from being carried away. Evidently we were too near the headwaters
+for a tidal bore, for at eleven P.M. the waters turned and came back
+as quietly as they ran out.
+
+We launched our boat before the break of day, and for four hours
+we travelled on a good current. The channel now had widened to a
 half-mile, with straight earthy banks, about fifteen feet high. Still
 there was no sign of a ranch, and it began to look to us as if there
 was little likelihood of finding any.
@@ -7905,8 +8185,8 @@ All this land was the south rim of the silt dam, which extended from
 the line of cliffs or mesa on the east to the mountains on the west.
 The other rim, a hundred feet higher, lay at least fifty miles to the
 north. Here was the resting-place of a small portion of the sediment
-carved away by the Colorado's floods. How deep it is piled and how far
-it extends out under the waters of the Gulf would be hard to say.
+carved away by the Colorado’s floods. How deep it is piled and how
+far it extends out under the waters of the Gulf would be hard to say.
 
 We felt sure that we would get to the Gulf with this tide, but when
 the time came for it to turn we were still many miles away. There was
@@ -7925,26 +8205,26 @@ tapered to a single silken strand and looking toward the Gulf, merged
 into the water. To all appearances it was a placid lake spread from
 mountain to mesa.
 
-Our smaller canteen was still filled with the fresh water secured the
-evening before. The other had been emptied and was filled again before
-the return of the tide, but considerable taste of the salt remained.
-What we did now must be done with caution. So far we had not seen the
-ranch. We were in doubt whether it was somewhere out on the coast or
-back on one of the sloughs passed the evening before. We had heard of
-large sail-boats being hauled from Yuma and launched by the ranch.
-This would seem to indicate that it was somewhere on the Gulf. We had
-provisions sufficient for one day, one canteen of fresh water, and
-another so mixed with the salt water that we would not use it except
-as a last resort.
+Our smaller canteen was still filled with the fresh water secured
+the evening before. The other had been emptied and was filled again
+before the return of the tide, but considerable taste of the salt
+remained. What we did now must be done with caution. So far we had
+not seen the ranch. We were in doubt whether it was somewhere out on
+the coast or back on one of the sloughs passed the evening before. We
+had heard of large sail-boats being hauled from Yuma and launched by
+the ranch. This would seem to indicate that it was somewhere on the
+Gulf. We had provisions sufficient for one day, one canteen of fresh
+water, and another so mixed with the salt water that we would not use
+it except as a last resort.
 
 A little after 3.30 P.M. the tide changed; we launched our boat and
-went out with the flood. As we neared the mouth of the stream we found
-that the inrush and outrush of water had torn the banks. Here the
-river spread in a circular pool several miles across. It seemed almost
-as if the waters ran clear to the line of yellow cliffs and to the
-hazy mountain range. Then the shores closed in again just before the
-current divided quite evenly on either side of a section of the barren
-plain named Montague Island. We took the channel to the east.
+went out with the flood. As we neared the mouth of the stream we
+found that the inrush and outrush of water had torn the banks. Here
+the river spread in a circular pool several miles across. It seemed
+almost as if the waters ran clear to the line of yellow cliffs and to
+the hazy mountain range. Then the shores closed in again just before
+the current divided quite evenly on either side of a section of the
+barren plain named Montague Island. We took the channel to the east.
 
 Our last hope of finding the ranch was in a dried-out river channel,
 overgrown with trees. But although we looked carefully as we passed,
@@ -7956,134 +8236,140 @@ was all.
 
 The sun, just above the lilac-tinted mountains, hung like a great
 suspended ball of fire. The cloudless sky glared like a furnace. Deep
-purple shadows crept into the canyons slashing the mountain range. The
-yellow dust-waves and the mirages disappeared with the going down of
-the sun. Still we were carried on and on. We would go down with the
-tide. Now the end of the island lay opposite the line of cliffs; soon
-we would be in the Gulf.
+purple shadows crept into the canyons slashing the mountain range.
+The yellow dust-waves and the mirages disappeared with the going down
+of the sun. Still we were carried on and on. We would go down with
+the tide. Now the end of the island lay opposite the line of cliffs;
+soon we would be in the Gulf.
 
 So ended the Colorado. Two thousand miles above, it was a beautiful
 river, born of a hundred snow-capped peaks and a thousand crystal
-streams; gathering strength, it became the masterful river which had
-carved the hearts of mountains and slashed the rocky plateaus,
+streams; gathering strength, it became the masterful river which
+had carved the hearts of mountains and slashed the rocky plateaus,
 draining a kingdom and giving but little in return. Now it was going
-under, but it was fighting to the end. Waves of yellow struggled up
-through waves of green and were beaten down again. The dorsal fins of
-a half-dozen sharks cut circles near our craft. With the last
-afterglow we were past the end of the island and were nearing the
-brooding cliffs. Still the current ran strong. The last vestige of day
-was swallowed in the gloom, just as the Colorado was buried 'neath the
-blue. A hard wind was blowing, toward the shore; the sea was choppy. A
-point of rocks where the cliffs met the sea was our goal. Would we
-never reach it? Even in the night, which was now upon us, the distance
-was deceptive. At last we neared the pile of rocks. The sound of
-waters pounding on the shore was heard, and we hurriedly landed, a
-half-mile above it, just as the tide turned.
+under, but it was fighting to the end. Waves of yellow struggled
+up through waves of green and were beaten down again. The dorsal
+fins of a half-dozen sharks cut circles near our craft. With the
+last afterglow we were past the end of the island and were nearing
+the brooding cliffs. Still the current ran strong. The last vestige
+of day was swallowed in the gloom, just as the Colorado was buried
+’neath the blue. A hard wind was blowing, toward the shore; the sea
+was choppy. A point of rocks where the cliffs met the sea was our
+goal. Would we never reach it? Even in the night, which was now upon
+us, the distance was deceptive. At last we neared the pile of rocks.
+The sound of waters pounding on the shore was heard, and we hurriedly
+landed, a half-mile above it, just as the tide turned.
 
 The beach was a half-mile wide, covered with mud and sloughs. There
-was no high shore. But an examination showed that the tide ran back to
-the cliffs. One of us had to stay with the boat. Telling Phillipps to
-get what sleep he could, I sat in the boat, and allowed the small
+was no high shore. But an examination showed that the tide ran back
+to the cliffs. One of us had to stay with the boat. Telling Phillipps
+to get what sleep he could, I sat in the boat, and allowed the small
 breakers which fox-chased each other to beat it in as the tide rose.
 
 An arctic explorer has said that having an adventure means that
 something unexpected or unforeseen has happened; that some one has
 been incompetent. I had the satisfaction of knowing that the fault of
-this adventure, if such it could be called, was mine. Here we were, at
-our goal in Mexico, supposed to be a hostile land, with scant
+this adventure, if such it could be called, was mine. Here we were,
+at our goal in Mexico, supposed to be a hostile land, with scant
 provisions for one day. It was a hundred miles along the line of
 cliffs, back to Yuma. So far, we had failed to find the ranch. It was
-not likely that it was around the point of rocks. We knew now that the
-Colorado channel was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river, and
-was not a slough as we had supposed. Doubtless the ranch was up there.
-Our best plan was to return to the head of the tide, going up the
-Colorado, then if we did not find the ranch we would abandon the boat,
-snare some birds, keep out of the scorching heat, and travel in the
-morning and evening. Two active men should be able to do that without
-difficulty.
+not likely that it was around the point of rocks. We knew now that
+the Colorado channel was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river,
+and was not a slough as we had supposed. Doubtless the ranch was up
+there. Our best plan was to return to the head of the tide, going up
+the Colorado, then if we did not find the ranch we would abandon the
+boat, snare some birds, keep out of the scorching heat, and travel
+in the morning and evening. Two active men should be able to do that
+without difficulty.
+
+  [Illustration: STEAM VENTS AND MUD POTS BESIDE VOLCANIC LAKE, MEXICO.]
+
+  [Illustration: COCOPAH MOUNTAIN, MEXICO.]
 
 So the hours passed, with the breakers driving the boat toward the
-line of cliffs. When it had reached its highest point, I pulled into a
-slough and tied up, then woke Al as we had agreed. While I slept, he
-climbed the cliffs to have a last look. An hour after daybreak he
-returned. Nothing but rock and desert could be seen. We dragged the
-boat down in the slime of the slough until we caught the falling tide.
-Then Al rigged up his sail. With the rising sun a light breeze blew in
-from the Gulf. Here was our opportunity. Slowly we went up against the
-falling tide. Then as the breeze failed, the tide returned. Fifty feet
-away a six foot black sea bass floated; his rounded back lifted above
-the water. With the approach of the boat he was gone. The sharks were
-seen again.
+line of cliffs. When it had reached its highest point, I pulled into
+a slough and tied up, then woke Al as we had agreed. While I slept,
+he climbed the cliffs to have a last look. An hour after daybreak
+he returned. Nothing but rock and desert could be seen. We dragged
+the boat down in the slime of the slough until we caught the falling
+tide. Then Al rigged up his sail. With the rising sun a light breeze
+blew in from the Gulf. Here was our opportunity. Slowly we went
+up against the falling tide. Then as the breeze failed, the tide
+returned. Fifty feet away a six foot black sea bass floated; his
+rounded back lifted above the water. With the approach of the boat he
+was gone. The sharks were seen again.
 
 Two hours later we had entered the mouth of the river carried by the
-rising tide. Several miles were left behind. Another breeze came up as
-the tide failed, and the sail was rigged up again. Things were coming
-our way at last. Al knew how to handle a boat. Running her in close to
-the top of the straight falling banks I could leap to the land, take a
-picture, then run and overtake the boat, and leap on again.
+rising tide. Several miles were left behind. Another breeze came up
+as the tide failed, and the sail was rigged up again. Things were
+coming our way at last. Al knew how to handle a boat. Running her in
+close to the top of the straight falling banks I could leap to the
+land, take a picture, then run and overtake the boat, and leap on
+again.
 
 Then the wind shifted, the tide turned, and we tied up, directly
 opposite the point where we had camped the afternoon before. It was
 the hottest day we had seen Whirlwinds, gathering the dust in slender
 funnels, scurried across the plains. Mirages of trees bordering
-shimmering lakes and spreading water such as we had come through below
-Yuma were to be seen, even out towards the sea. Then over toward the
-cliffs where the old Colorado once ran we saw a column of distant
-smoke. Perhaps it was a hunter; it could hardly be the ranch. As we
-could do nothing with the boat, we concluded to walk over that way. It
-was many miles distant. Taking everything we had, including our last
-lunch, we started our walk, leaving a cloth on a pole to mark the
-point where our boat was anchored. But after going four miles it still
-seemed no nearer than before, so we returned. It was evening. The
-water was drinkable again; that was something to be thankful for. By
-ten o'clock that night the tide would come up again. After dark we
-found that our boat was being beached. So we ran it down and began
-pulling it along over a shoal reaching far out from the shore. As we
-tugged I was sure I heard a call somewhere up the river. What kind of
-a land was this! Could it be that my senses were all deceiving me as
-my eyes were fooled by the mirage? I had heard it, Al had not, and
-laughed when I said that I had. We listened and heard it again,
-plainly this time, "Can't you men find a landing? We have a good one
-up here," it said.
+shimmering lakes and spreading water such as we had come through
+below Yuma were to be seen, even out towards the sea. Then over
+toward the cliffs where the old Colorado once ran we saw a column
+of distant smoke. Perhaps it was a hunter; it could hardly be the
+ranch. As we could do nothing with the boat, we concluded to walk
+over that way. It was many miles distant. Taking everything we had,
+including our last lunch, we started our walk, leaving a cloth on a
+pole to mark the point where our boat was anchored. But after going
+four miles it still seemed no nearer than before, so we returned. It
+was evening. The water was drinkable again; that was something to be
+thankful for. By ten o’clock that night the tide would come up again.
+After dark we found that our boat was being beached. So we ran it
+down and began pulling it along over a shoal reaching far out from
+the shore. As we tugged I was sure I heard a call somewhere up the
+river. What kind of a land was this! Could it be that my senses were
+all deceiving me as my eyes were fooled by the mirage? I had heard
+it, Al had not, and laughed when I said that I had. We listened and
+heard it again, plainly this time, “Can’t you men find a landing? We
+have a good one up here,” it said.
 
 We asked them to row down, advising them to keep clear of the shoal.
-We waded out, guided by their voices, in the pitch darkness and neared
-the boat.
+We waded out, guided by their voices, in the pitch darkness and
+neared the boat.
 
 One shadowy form sat in either end of a flat-bottomed boat. There was
-a mast, and the boat was fitted for two oarsmen as well. Evidently the
-load was heavy, for it was well down in the water. The sail cloth was
-spread over all the boat, excepting one end where there was a small
-sheet-iron stove, with a pan of glowing wood coal underneath. The
-aroma of coffee came from a pot on the stove. As I steadied myself at
-the bow I touched a crumpled flag,--Mexican, I thought,--but I could
-not see. Both figures sat facing us, with rifles in their hands, alert
-and ready for a surprise. Smugglers! I thought; guns, I imagined. They
-could not see our faces in the dark, neither could we distinguish
-theirs. Judging by their voices they were young men. I thought from
-the first that they were Mexicans, but they talked without accent.
-They could see that we carried no arms, but their vigilance was not
-relaxed. They asked what our trouble was and we told them of the
-beached boat, what we had been doing, and why we were there. They said
-they were out for a little sight-seeing trip down in the Gulf. They
-might go to Tiburone Island. One of them wondered if it was true that
-the natives were cannibals. He said he would not care about being
-shot, but he would hate to be put in their stew-pot. We asked them how
-much water they carried. A fifteen-gallon keg was all They hoped to
-get more along the coast. It is quite well known there is none. They
-professed to be uninformed about the country, did not know there was a
-ranch or a tidal bore, and thanked us for our information about the
-tides, and the advice to fill their keg when the water was lowest,
-which would be in half an hour. They could not sell any provisions,
-but gave us a quart of flour.
-
-As we talked an undermined bank toppled over, sounding like shots from
-a gun. One cocked his rifle on the impulse, then laughed when he
-realized what it was. Just before we parted one of them remarked, "You
-came through the Bee River four days ago, near a telephone, didn't
-you?" "Yes, but we didn't see any one," I replied.
-
-"No? But we saw you!" And we felt the smiles we could not see.
+a mast, and the boat was fitted for two oarsmen as well. Evidently
+the load was heavy, for it was well down in the water. The sail
+cloth was spread over all the boat, excepting one end where there
+was a small sheet-iron stove, with a pan of glowing wood coal
+underneath. The aroma of coffee came from a pot on the stove. As
+I steadied myself at the bow I touched a crumpled flag,--Mexican,
+I thought,--but I could not see. Both figures sat facing us, with
+rifles in their hands, alert and ready for a surprise. Smugglers! I
+thought; guns, I imagined. They could not see our faces in the dark,
+neither could we distinguish theirs. Judging by their voices they
+were young men. I thought from the first that they were Mexicans,
+but they talked without accent. They could see that we carried no
+arms, but their vigilance was not relaxed. They asked what our
+trouble was and we told them of the beached boat, what we had been
+doing, and why we were there. They said they were out for a little
+sight-seeing trip down in the Gulf. They might go to Tiburone Island.
+One of them wondered if it was true that the natives were cannibals.
+He said he would not care about being shot, but he would hate to be
+put in their stew-pot. We asked them how much water they carried. A
+fifteen-gallon keg was all They hoped to get more along the coast. It
+is quite well known there is none. They professed to be uninformed
+about the country, did not know there was a ranch or a tidal bore,
+and thanked us for our information about the tides, and the advice
+to fill their keg when the water was lowest, which would be in half
+an hour. They could not sell any provisions, but gave us a quart of
+flour.
+
+As we talked an undermined bank toppled over, sounding like shots
+from a gun. One cocked his rifle on the impulse, then laughed when
+he realized what it was. Just before we parted one of them remarked,
+“You came through the Bee River four days ago, near a telephone,
+didn’t you?” “Yes, but we didn’t see any one,” I replied.
+
+“No? But we saw you!” And we felt the smiles we could not see.
 
 They said the large ranch had some Chinamen clearing the highest
 ground, and building levees around it to keep the water out. The
@@ -8092,152 +8378,452 @@ advice to us was to keep to the river, not to look for the ranch, but
 to get on the telephone and raise a racket until some one showed up.
 
 Then we parted to go to our respective landings, with mutual wishes
-for a successful journey. The boat was pulled down. The tide was on
-the point of turning, but it would be an hour before there would be
-any strength to it. I went to shore and built a fire of some
-driftwood, for the long stand in the water had chilled me. Al stayed
-with the boat. Earlier in the day, I cautiously shook the sticks loose
-from the matted grass, fearing the rattlers which were everywhere. In
-this case nothing buzzed. But I had no sooner got my fire well started
-when a rattler began to sing, roused by the light and the heat, about
-twenty feet away. My fire was built beside one of the many sloughs
-which cut back through the grass and ended in the barren soil. These
-sloughs were filled with water when the tide was in and made ideal
-landing places, especially if one had to avoid a big tidal bore.
-Getting on the opposite side of the fire, I tossed a stick
-occasionally to keep him roused. Soon another joined, and between them
-they made the air hum. By this time I was thoroughly warmed and felt
-that the boat would be the best place for me. Carefully extinguishing
-my fire, I went down to the river just as the tide returned. Without
-any sign or call from the shore we were carried up with the tide. We
-were both weary but I dared not sleep, so I merely kept the boat away
-from the shores and drifted, while Phillipps slept. I had picked out a
-guiding star which I little needed while the current was running
-strong, but which would give us our course when the tide changed, for
-we could be carried out just as easily.
+for a successful journey. The boat was pulled down. The tide was
+on the point of turning, but it would be an hour before there
+would be any strength to it. I went to shore and built a fire of
+some driftwood, for the long stand in the water had chilled me.
+Al stayed with the boat. Earlier in the day, I cautiously shook
+the sticks loose from the matted grass, fearing the rattlers which
+were everywhere. In this case nothing buzzed. But I had no sooner
+got my fire well started when a rattler began to sing, roused by
+the light and the heat, about twenty feet away. My fire was built
+beside one of the many sloughs which cut back through the grass and
+ended in the barren soil. These sloughs were filled with water when
+the tide was in and made ideal landing places, especially if one
+had to avoid a big tidal bore. Getting on the opposite side of the
+fire, I tossed a stick occasionally to keep him roused. Soon another
+joined, and between them they made the air hum. By this time I was
+thoroughly warmed and felt that the boat would be the best place for
+me. Carefully extinguishing my fire, I went down to the river just
+as the tide returned. Without any sign or call from the shore we
+were carried up with the tide. We were both weary but I dared not
+sleep, so I merely kept the boat away from the shores and drifted,
+while Phillipps slept. I had picked out a guiding star which I little
+needed while the current was running strong, but which would give us
+our course when the tide changed, for we could be carried out just as
+easily.
 
 But an hour after we left our camp another light appeared, growing
 larger and larger. It was one of two things. Either my fire was not
 extinguished, or a match thrown down by one of the others had fired
-the deep dry grass. I consoled myself that it could not spread, for
-the sloughs and the barren soil would cut it off. I had a grim
+the deep dry grass. I consoled myself that it could not spread,
+for the sloughs and the barren soil would cut it off. I had a grim
 satisfaction when I thought of the snakes and how they would run for
 the desert land. This was a real guiding star, growing larger and
 larger as we were carried up the stream. I slept on shore when the
 tide would take us no farther. Phillipps got breakfast. We were now
 about three miles from the slough. After breakfast we alternately
-towed the boat, for there was no wind to carry us up this morning, and
-two hours later arrived at the diverging streams. Near by we saw some
-mules showing evidence of having been worked. It was clear now that
-the ranch was near. There was still a chance that we would take the
-wrong stream. Over on the opposite side was a tall cottonwood tree.
-This I climbed, and had the satisfaction of seeing some kind of a shed
-half a mile up the east stream. The land between proved to be a large
-island. As we neared the building two swarthy men emerged and came
-down to the shore. "Buenos días," Al called as we pulled in to the
-landing.
-
-"Buenos días, Señor," they answered with a smile.
-
-They were employees of the Rancho La Bolso, which was a half-mile up
+towed the boat, for there was no wind to carry us up this morning,
+and two hours later arrived at the diverging streams. Near by we saw
+some mules showing evidence of having been worked. It was clear now
+that the ranch was near. There was still a chance that we would take
+the wrong stream. Over on the opposite side was a tall cottonwood
+tree. This I climbed, and had the satisfaction of seeing some kind of
+a shed half a mile up the east stream. The land between proved to be
+a large island. As we neared the building two swarthy men emerged and
+came down to the shore. “Buenos días,” Al called as we pulled in to
+the landing.
+
+“Buenos días, Señor,” they answered with a smile.
+
+They were employees of the Rancho La Bolsa, which was a half-mile up
 the stream.
 
+  [Illustration: TEN MILES FROM THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. COMING UP ON A
+  TWENTY-FOOT TIDE.]
+
+  [Illustration: SUNSET ON THE LOWER COLORADO RIVER.]
+
 Did we make the big fire which had burned until morning?
 
 Our answer seemed to relieve their minds.
 
-What would we do with our boat? It was theirs to do with as they
-pleased. Leading two horses from out of the building, they mounted and
-told us to climb on behind, and away we rode across some water-filled
-sloughs. Hidden in the trees we came to the buildings--three or four
-flat-topped adobe houses. Some little brown children scattered to
-announce our coming.
+What would we do with our boat? It was theirs to do with as
+they pleased. Leading two horses from out of the building, they
+mounted and told us to climb on behind, and away we rode across
+some water-filled sloughs. Hidden in the trees we came to the
+buildings--three or four flat-topped adobe houses. Some little brown
+children scattered to announce our coming.
 
-As we dismounted two white men approached. "Why, hello, Phillipps!"
-the ranch boss said when he saw my companion. "This is a long walk
-from Yuma. You fellows are just in time to grub!"
+As we dismounted two white men approached. “Why, hello, Phillipps!”
+the ranch boss said when he saw my companion. “This is a long walk
+from Yuma. You fellows are just in time to grub!”
 
-NOTES
 
-[Footnote 1: The various expeditions which are credited with
-continuous or complete journeys through all the canyons and the dates
-of leaving Green River, Wyoming, are as follows:
+                                THE END
 
-     Major Powell, 1st journey. May 24, 1869.
 
-     Major Powell, 2nd journey. May 22, 1871. Discontinued at Kanab
-       Canyon in the Grand Canyon.
+FOOTNOTES:
 
-     Galloway. Sept. 20, 1895 and 1896.
+[1] The various expeditions which are credited with continuous or
+complete journeys through all the canyons and the dates of leaving
+Green River, Wyoming, are as follows:
 
-     Flavell. Aug. 27, 1896.
+  Major Powell, 1st journey. May 24, 1869.
 
-     Stone. Sept. 12, 1909.
+  Major Powell, 2nd journey. May 22, 1871. Discontinued at Kanab Canyon
+  in the Grand Canyon.
 
-     Kolb. Sept. 8, 1911.
+  Galloway. Sept. 20, 1895 and 1896.
 
-For a more complete record of the earlier parties see appendix.]
+  Flavell. Aug. 27, 1896.
 
-[Footnote 2: The initials E.C. apply to my brother, Emery C. Kolb;
-E.L. to myself. These initials are frequently used in this text. For
-several years the nick-name "Ed" has been applied to me, and in my
-brothers' narratives I usually figure as Ed.]
+  Stone. Sept. 12, 1909.
 
-[Footnote 3: It is not unusual for certain individual animals to be
-outlawed or to have a price set on their heads by the stockmen's
-associations, in addition to the regular bounty paid by the counties.
-At the time this is written there is a standing reward of $200 for a
-certain "lobo," or timber wolf which roams over the Kaibab Forest
-directly opposite our home in the Grand Canyon. In addition to this
-there is a bounty of $10 offered by the county. This wolf has taken to
-killing colts and occasional full-grown horses, in addition to his
-regular diet of yearling calves.]
+  Kolb. Sept. 8, 1911.
 
+For a more complete record of the earlier parties see appendix.
 
-[Footnote 4: Brown-Stanton. May 25, 1889.
+[2] The initials E. C. apply to my brother, Emery C. Kolb; E. L. to
+myself. These initials are frequently used in this text. For several
+years the nick-name “Ed” has been applied to me, and in my brothers’
+narratives I usually figure as Ed.
 
-Russell-Monnette. Sept. 20, 1907.
+[3] It is not unusual for certain individual animals to be outlawed
+or to have a price set on their heads by the stockmen’s associations,
+in addition to the regular bounty paid by the counties. At the time
+this is written there is a standing reward of $200 for a certain
+“lobo,” or timber wolf which roams over the Kaibab Forest directly
+opposite our home in the Grand Canyon. In addition to this there is a
+bounty of $10 offered by the county. This wolf has taken to killing
+colts and occasional full-grown horses, in addition to his regular
+diet of yearling calves.
 
-For a more complete record of these expeditions, as well as others who
-attempted the passage of the canyons below this point, see appendix.]
+[4] Brown-Stanton. May 25, 1889.
 
+    Russell-Monnette. Sept. 20, 1907.
 
-[Footnote 5: Left by the Stone expedition.]
+For a more complete record of these expeditions, as well as others
+who attempted the passage of the canyons below this point, see
+appendix.
 
-[Footnote 6: While Major Powell was making his second voyage of
-exploration, another party was toiling up these canyons towing their
-boats from the precipitous shores. This party was under the leadership
-of Lieutenant Wheeler of the U.S. Army. The party was large, composed
+[5] Left by the Stone expedition.
+
+[6] While Major Powell was making his second voyage of exploration,
+another party was toiling up these canyons towing their boats from
+the precipitous shores. This party was under the leadership of
+Lieutenant Wheeler of the U.S. Army. The party was large, composed
 of twenty men, including a number of Mojave Indians, in the river
-expedition, while others were sent overland with supplies to the mouth
-of Diamond Creek. By almost superhuman effort they succeeded in
-getting their boats up the canyon as far as Diamond Creek. While there
-is no doubt that they reached this point, there were times when we
-could hardly believe it was possible when we saw the walls they would
-have to climb in this granite gorge. In some places there seemed to be
-no place less than five hundred feet above the river where they could
-secure a foothold. Their method was to carry a rope over these places,
-then pull the boats up through the rapids by main force. It would be
-just as easy to pull a heavy rowboat up the gorge of Niagara, as
-through some of these rapids. Their best plan, by far, would have been
-to haul their boats in at Diamond Creek and make the descent, as they
-did after reaching this point. The only advantage their method gave
-them was a knowledge of what they would meet with on the downstream
-run. Lieutenant Wheeler professed to disbelieve that Major Powell had
-descended below Diamond Creek, and called his voyage the completion of
-the exploration of the Colorado River. In a four days' run they
-succeeded in covering the same distance that had taken four weeks of
-endless toil, to bring their boats up to this point.]
+expedition, while others were sent overland with supplies to the
+mouth of Diamond Creek. By almost superhuman effort they succeeded
+in getting their boats up the canyon as far as Diamond Creek. While
+there is no doubt that they reached this point, there were times
+when we could hardly believe it was possible when we saw the walls
+they would have to climb in this granite gorge. In some places there
+seemed to be no place less than five hundred feet above the river
+where they could secure a foothold. Their method was to carry a rope
+over these places, then pull the boats up through the rapids by main
+force. It would be just as easy to pull a heavy rowboat up the gorge
+of Niagara, as through some of these rapids. Their best plan, by far,
+would have been to haul their boats in at Diamond Creek and make the
+descent, as they did after reaching this point. The only advantage
+their method gave them was a knowledge of what they would meet with
+on the downstream run. Lieutenant Wheeler professed to disbelieve
+that Major Powell had descended below Diamond Creek, and called his
+voyage the completion of the exploration of the Colorado River. In a
+four days’ run they succeeded in covering the same distance that had
+taken four weeks of endless toil, to bring their boats up to this
+point.
+
+[7] See appendix, History of Cataract Canyon.
+
+
+
+
+                               APPENDIX
+
+
+The parties who have made extended voyages through one or more of
+the canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers, and the order of their
+leaving, according to Dellenbaugh, are as follows:
+
+Major J. W. Powell left Green River, Wyoming, May 24, 1869; arrived
+at the Virgin River with five of his party, six in all, Aug. 30,
+1869--was met there by some Mormons who had been ordered to be on the
+lookout by Brigham Young. The party were distributed as follows:
+
+  The boats: 1. _Emma Dean._ J. W. Powell, John C. Sumner,
+                  Wm. H. Dunn.
+             2. _Kitty Clyde’s Sister._ Walter Powell, G. Y.
+                  Bradley.
+             3. _No Name._ O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland,
+                  Frank Goodman.
+             4. _Maid of the Canyon._ Wm. R. Hawkins,
+                  Andrew Hall.
+
+Notes. F. Goodman left the party at the Mouth of the Uinta. The _No
+Name_ was wrecked in Lodore Canyon. O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland,
+and Wm. H. Dunn left the party when about twenty-five miles from
+the mouth of the Grand Canyon, and were killed by the Shewits Utes
+near Mt. Dellenbaugh. Sumner and Hall went on down to the Gulf of
+California.
+
+
+The second Powell expedition left Green River, Wyoming, May 22,
+1871, taking advantage of the high water, which is desirable on
+the Green River. They arrived at the Mouth of the Paria, Oct. 22,
+1871. Starting again from the Paria (Lee’s Ferry) Aug. 17, 1872,
+they passed through Marble Canyon and nearly 100 miles of the Grand
+Canyon, reaching the mouth of Kanab Canyon Saturday, Sept. 7, 1872.
+Here the voyage was discontinued on account of high water, rising
+higher each day. The crews of this party were distributed as follows:
+
+  1871. 1. _Emma Dean._ J. W. Powell, S. V. Jones, F. S.
+             Dellenbaugh, J. K. Hilliers.
+        2. _Nellie Powell._ A. H. Thompson, John F. Steward,
+             F. M. Bishop, F. C. A. Richardson.
+        3. _Canonita._ E. O. Beaman, W. Clement Powell,
+             Andrew C. Hatton.
+
+Notes. Richardson left in Brown’s Park; Beaman, Steward, and Bishop
+at the end of the first season. The boats had been badly pounded, the
+_Nellie Powell_ very much so, and she was left at Lee’s Ferry. The
+party proceeded as follows:
+
+  1872. 1. _Emma Dean._ J. W. Powell, S. V. Jones, F. S.
+             Dellenbaugh, J. K. Hilliers.
+        2. _Canonita._ A. H. Thompson, W. Clement
+             Powell, A. C. Hatton.
+
+H. M. Hook with fifteen miners in crude boats left Green River,
+Wyoming, June 1, 1869. H. M. Hook and one other were drowned in Red
+Canyon, and the expedition was abandoned.
+
+Earlier parties to attempt descent: 1825--Wm. H. Ashley and party to
+Brown’s Park. 1849--Wm. L. Manly and party to Uintah Valley. The name
+D. Julien, Mai 1836, occurs carved in the walls in Labyrinth Canyon,
+and again in Cataract Canyon. No further record at present.
+
+
+                             BROWN-STANTON
+
+This expedition left Blake (Green River, Utah) May 25, 1889, 16 men
+with 6 boats (very light). The entire party was Frank M. Brown,
+chief, Robert Brewster Stanton, chief engineer, John Hislop, C. W.
+Potter, T. P. Rigney, E. A. Reynolds, J. H. Hughes, W. H. Bush,
+Edward Coe, Edward ----, Peter Hansborough, Henry Richards, G. W.
+Gibson, Charles Porter, F. A. Nims, T. C. Terry.
+
+Notes. Brown, Hansborough, and Richards were drowned in Marble
+Canyon. The expedition was temporarily abandoned in lower Marble
+Canyon. Hughes, Terry, and Rigney left at Glen Canyon, Reynolds left
+at Lee’s Ferry, and Harry McDonald joined the party.
+
+
+                                STANTON
+
+Stanton re-outfitted with heavy boats, 22 feet long, and began the
+second trip in Glen Canyon. This party included R. B. Stanton,
+Langdon Gibson, Harry McDonald, Elmer Kane, John Hislop, F. A. Nims,
+Reginald Travers, W. H. Edwards, A. B. Twining, H. G. Ballard, L. G.
+Brown, and James Hogue. They entered the head of Marble Canyon Dec.
+28, 1889, and finished at tide water in the Gulf of California, Apr.
+26, 1890. One boat wrecked in the Grand Canyon. Purpose of trip,
+survey for a railroad.
+
+Notes. Nims had a fall in Marble Canyon, which broke his leg. He
+was taken out over a 1700-foot wall and carried over the plateau to
+a point where he could be hauled out by wagon. McDonald left the
+expedition near the upper end of the Grand Canyon, Hogue and one
+other left at Diamond Creek.
+
+
+                               GALLOWAY
+
+Nathan Galloway left Green River, Wyoming, in the autumn of 1895 and
+went to Lee’s Ferry. Late in 1896 N. Galloway and Wm. Richmond left
+Henry’s Fork, Wyoming, and reached Needles, Feb. 10, 1897. Galloway
+passed down as far as the Uintah Valley five times, and through
+Desolation and Gray canyons seven times, through Cataract three
+times, and the Grand Canyon, once before making the trip with Julius
+F. Stone. Galloway was a trapper.
+
+
+                                FLAVELL
+
+On Aug. 27, 1896, George F. Flavell and one companion, name unknown,
+started from Green River, Wyoming, and went to Yuma, Arizona, which
+was reached Dec. 1896. They had one boat; flat-bottomed. Little is
+known about this expedition. Prospector or trapper?
+
+
+                           RUSSELL-MONNETTE
+
+Charles S. Russell, E. R. Monnette, and Bert Loper, in three steel
+boats, left Blake (Green River), Utah, Sept. 20, 1907. Russell
+and Monnette reached Needles in Feb. 1908 with one boat. Purpose,
+prospecting.
+
+Notes. Loper’s boat was punctured in the lower end of Cataract
+Canyon, and he held up to repair while the others continued to
+prospect as far as Lee’s Ferry. After a long wait they proceeded with
+the trip. Loper arrived shortly after, but discontinued the trip when
+he found he was left behind. A second boat was lost in the Hance
+Rapid. The third boat was torn away from them, while lining it in the
+Hermit Creek Rapid. They climbed the granite, and followed a trail
+which took them to the camp of L. Bouchre, a prospector. The boat
+was found the next day with three holes in its side, in a whirlpool
+five miles below the Hermit Creek Rapid. The boat was repaired and
+the voyage completed to Needles.
+
+
+                                 STONE
+
+Julius F. Stone of Columbus, Ohio, accompanied by Nathan T. Galloway,
+Chas. S. Sharp, S. S. Denbeudorff, and R. A. Cogswell (Photographer),
+outfitted with four flat-bottomed boats, left Green River, Wyoming,
+Sept. 12, 1909, and reached Needles Nov. 15, 1909, with all boats in
+good condition, and with the remarkable record for Stone and Galloway
+of having brought their two boats through without an upset.
+
+Notes. Sharp discontinued the trip at Glen Canyon, and one boat was
+left at this place. Purpose, photographic exploration.
+
+
+                                 KOLB
+
+On Sept. 8, 1911, Emery C. Kolb, James Fagin, and Ellsworth L. Kolb,
+outfitted with two flat-bottomed boats, left Green River and arrived
+at Bright Angel Trail, Nov. 16, 1911. James Fagin left the party at
+the mouth of Lodore Canyon. On Dec. 19, Herbert Lauzon joined the
+party at the Grand Canyon for the trip to Needles; Ernest V. Kolb was
+taken along for a twenty-five mile ride to the end of the Bass Trail.
+Lauzon finished the trip at Needles with the Kolb brothers, Jan. 18,
+1912. Purpose, moving pictures and photographs. In May, 1913, E. L.
+Kolb made the trip from Needles to the Gulf, travelling on the high
+water and making the 400-mile run in 8 days.
+
+
+                    THE HISTORY OF CATARACT CANYON
+
+J. S. Best and party left Green River, Utah, July 10, 1891. Wrecked
+in Cataract Canyon. No lives lost.
+
+There are incomplete records of nine parties who have attempted
+to pass through Cataract Canyon, and who undoubtedly met with
+fatalities. On two occasions a single member escaped and reached the
+Hite ranch in a famished condition.
+
+John Vartan, an Armenian prospector, lost his boat and barely
+succeeded in escaping. His clothes were made into a rope by which he
+dropped from a ledge to a canyon, through which he reached the Land
+of Standing Rocks. He was found after weeks of exposure, during which
+time he lived on plants and roots. He was nursed back to life, but
+never gave a very clear account of his experiences.
+
+A. G. Turner, the Glen Canyon prospector, made a successful passage
+through the rapids of this canyon in 1907.
+
+The Stone expedition found a wrecked boat and fresh tracks of three
+persons, one of these being a boy’s tracks, on the shore. No further
+trace of them has been discovered.
+
+Charles Smith wrote us that he succeeded in getting through after we
+saw him in 1911.
+
+In 1912 Smith and Galloway combined and passed through in safety.
+Near Dark Canyon they found the decomposed body of a man on a rock in
+mid-stream. From odors, they judged there were other bodies in other
+places not far from this find.
+
+Just before this book goes to press we have received two letters, one
+from Mr. J. F. Stone, stating that Galloway had died a natural death.
+Another letter is from John Hite, informing us that his brother Cass
+Hite was dead. In the same letter he states that Smith left Blake,
+Utah, for the third time, in November, 1913, and had never showed up
+at his home. Later he and Loper found half of his wrecked boat. A
+full heart pays tribute to the memory of Smith.
+
+So it goes on from year to year. Judging by these experiences it
+would seem that the carefully planned expeditions, especially those
+with covered boats containing air chambers, succeed in getting
+through.
+
+The writer believes that a passage can be made through Cataract
+Canyon, in low water, without being compelled to run more than one or
+two bad rapids, if great care is taken while crossing from one shore
+to the other between the rapids. With a light canvas boat, or with
+a canoe in the hands of experts, it might be possible to avoid them
+all, but I would not care to be so quoted, as I am a little uncertain
+about the two last bad rapids. This would not be possible in Marble
+or the Grand Canyon. The last mentioned contains many rapids as bad
+as any in Cataract Canyon. We find that all those who have made
+successful passages are infatuated with their type of boat. All we
+will claim for our type, which came to us through Stone and Galloway,
+is that three expeditions have used this type of boat, and they
+all--with the exception of one in perfect condition left by Stone’s
+party with Hite--finished at Needles. But whether made of steel,
+wood, or canvas, all boats should be decked as much as possible to
+keep out the powerful waves, and should contain large air chambers.
+Rowlocks, oars, paddles, and ropes should be carefully guarded
+against breakage and loss.
+
+The flood stage on the Colorado River, about 300,000 cubic second
+feet, exceeds that on the St. Lawrence River at Niagara Falls, which
+carries about 250,000 cubic second feet. The descent in many rapids
+on the Colorado equals that of any section of the St. Lawrence,
+excepting Niagara Falls. In the low water stage, the rapids lose much
+of their strength of current and violence of waves, and the flow is
+only a small fraction of the flood stage.
+
+The deepest canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers, their length,
+approximate depth, and the fall of the river are as follows. These
+figures are compiled from “A Canyon Voyage,” U. S. G. S. maps, and
+other sources.
+
+    ================+=========+==============+===========
+                    |LENGTH IN|GREATEST DEPTH|APPROXIMATE
+                    |  MILES  |    IN FEET   |  DESCENT
+    ----------------+---------+--------------+-----------
+    Flaming Gorge ⎫ |         |              |
+    Horseshoe     ⎬ |  35     |              |
+    Kingfisher    ⎪ |         |              |
+    Red           ⎭ |         | 2700         |   350
+    Lodore          |  20½    | 2700-3000[8] |   425
+    Whirlpool       |  14     | 2200         |   140
+    Split Mountain  |   9     | 2000         |    90
+    Desolation      |  97     | 2700         | ⎫
+    Gray            |  36     | 2000         | ⎭ 550[9]
+    Cataract        |  41     | 2700-3000[10]|   430
+    Marble          |  65½    | 3500         |   480
+    Grand Canyon    | 217     | 5000-6000[11]|  1850
+    ================+=========+==============+===========
+
+The entire distance from Green River, Wyoming, to the tide water is
+something over 1600 miles. The descent is a little over 6000 feet.
+About 4300 feet of this descent occurs in 500 miles of the canyons
+listed above; 2330 feet comes in Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon,
+the two combined making an unbroken canyon of 283 miles.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] Peaks close to the canyon reach a height of 3000 ft. above the
+river.
+
+[9] The upper half of Desolation Canyon has no rapids.
+
+[10] Maps give depth as 2700 ft. We believe some walls are higher.
 
-[Footnote 7: See appendix, History of Cataract Canyon.]
+[11] Greatest depth on the south side of the Grand Canyon is near
+5000 ft., on the north rim about 6000 ft.
 
 
 
 
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE:
 
 
+Words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent
+hyphenation in the text. These have been left unchanged, as were
+jargon, dialect, obsolete and alternative spellings. Footnotes were
+renumbered sequentially and were moved to the end of the book. Seven
+misspelled words were corrected. Spelling of Pittsburg was not
+changed, as the official spelling lacked an ‘h’ until 1911. Denis
+Julien, mentioned in the appendix, was a French-Canadian who left at
+least eight inscriptions on rock walls in Utah and Colorado. Spelling
+of his name was changed from Julian to Julien, but the French
+spelling of ‘Mai’ was not changed.
 
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming
-to Mexico, by E. L. Kolb
 
 *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13150 ***
diff --git a/13150-h/13150-h.htm b/13150-h/13150-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..028409b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/13150-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,11636 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+    <meta charset="UTF-8">
+    <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">
+    <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no,date=no,address=no,email=no,url=no">
+    <title>
+      Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico | Project Gutenberg
+    </title>
+    <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
+    <style>
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+div.chapter {page-break-before: always;
+             margin-top: 4em;}
+
+h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+    text-align: center;
+    clear: both;
+}
+h1 {  margin: 1em 5% 1em;
+      font-size: 180%;}
+h2 {  margin: 1em 5% 1em;
+      font-size: 160%;}
+h3 { margin: 1em 5% 1em;
+      font-size: 140%;}
+h4 {margin: .5em 5% 1.5em;
+      font-size: 95%;}
+h2.nobreak  {page-break-before: avoid;}
+
+p { text-indent: 1.25em;
+    margin-top: .5em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .5em;
+    line-height: 125%;
+}
+.p2       {margin-top: 2em;}
+.p4       {margin-top: 4em;}
+.center   {text-align: center; text-indent: 0;}
+.right    {text-align: right;}
+.r2       {margin-right: 2em; }
+.tall   {line-height: 150%;}
+
+blockquote {
+    margin-top: 0;
+    margin-bottom: 0;
+    margin-left: 5%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+.smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;}
+em {font-style: italic;}
+.small {font-size: 92%;}
+.smaller {font-size: 83%;}
+.muchsmaller {font-size: 75%;}
+.larger {font-size: 140%;}
+.muchlarger {font-size: 160%;}
+.xxl {font-size: 180%;}
+.shipname {font-style: italic;}
+a:visited {text-decoration:none; color: red;}
+a:link {text-decoration:none;}
+abbr { border:none; text-decoration:none; font-variant:normal; }
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 1em;
+    margin-left: 33.5%;
+    margin-right: 33.5%;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%; margin-top: 2em;}
+@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} }
+hr.r5  {width: 5%; margin-top: .75em; margin-bottom: .75em; margin-left: 47.5%; margin-right: 47.5%;}
+
+ul { list-style-type: none; }
+li {font-size: 0.9em;
+    margin-top: 0;
+    text-indent: -2em;
+    padding-left: 3em;
+    margin-right: 10%;}
+li.normal {font-size: 100%;
+    margin-top: 0;
+    text-indent: -2em;
+    padding-left: 3em;
+    margin-right: 10%;}
+
+table {
+    margin-left: auto;
+    margin-right: auto;
+}
+
+.tdl      {text-align: left;}
+.tdr      {text-align: right;}
+.tdc      {text-align: center;}
+.tdh      {vertical-align: top;
+           text-align: left;
+           text-indent: -2em;
+           padding-left: 2em;}
+    .t   {border-top: solid thin;}
+    .r   {border-right: solid thin;}
+    .b   {border-bottom: solid thin;}
+.pad1 {padding: 0 1.5em 0 0;}
+.pad2 {padding: 0 0 0 1.5em;}
+.pad3 {padding: 0 2.5em 0 0;}
+.vlt {vertical-align: top;}
+.vlb {vertical-align: bottom;}
+
+.pagenum {/*  visibility: hidden;  */
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: small;
+    text-align: right;
+    font-style: normal;
+    font-weight: normal;
+    font-variant: normal;
+    text-indent: 0;
+}
+
+figcaption   {font-weight: normal; font-size: 90%;}
+figcaption.right {text-align: right; font-size: 80%;}
+figcaption p {margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: .2em; text-indent: 0; text-align: inherit;}
+
+/* Images */
+
+img {
+    max-width: 100%;
+    height: auto;
+}
+img.w100 {width: 100%;}
+
+.figcenter {
+    margin: 2em auto;
+    text-align: center;
+    page-break-inside: avoid;
+    max-width: 100%;
+}
+
+/* Footnotes */
+.footnotes        {border: 1px dashed; margin-top: 2em;}
+
+.footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em; text-indent: 0;}
+
+.footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+
+.fnanchor {
+    vertical-align: super;
+    font-size: .8em;
+    text-decoration:
+    none;
+}
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
+    color: black;
+    font-size:small;
+    padding:0.5em;
+    margin-bottom:5em;
+    font-family:sans-serif, serif;
+}
+
+/* Illustration classes */
+.illowp30 {width: 30%;}
+.illowp54 {width: 54%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp54 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp51 {width: 51%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp51 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp59 {width: 59%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp59 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp78 {width: 78%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp78 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp100 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp57 {width: 57%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp57 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp69 {width: 69%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp69 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp93 {width: 93%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp93 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp99 {width: 99%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp99 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp68 {width: 68%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp68 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp73 {width: 73%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp73 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp58 {width: 58%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp58 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp98 {width: 98%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp98 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp70 {width: 70%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp70 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp74 {width: 74%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp74 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp97 {width: 97%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp97 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp79 {width: 79%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp79 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp66 {width: 66%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp66 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp90 {width: 90%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp90 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp52 {width: 52%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp52 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp53 {width: 53%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp53 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp60 {width: 60%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp60 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp77 {width: 77%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp77 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp76 {width: 76%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp76 {width: 100%;}
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13150 ***</div>
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i"></span></p>
+<h1><i>
+Through the Grand Canyon<br>
+from Wyoming to Mexico</i>
+</h1>
+</div>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii"></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp30" id="colophon" style="max-width: 28.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/colophon.jpg" alt="In the center, a large stylized capital 'M' superimposed over a smaller 'M,' with a bullet above both. To the left, a bullet and the word 'The;' to the right, the abbreviation 'Co.' with a bullet. Below, a line beneath the entire logo with a curl at the left end and a circle in the center, directly below the centers of the two 'M's.">
+</figure>
+
+<p class="center">THE MACMILLAN COMPANY<br>
+<span class="allsmcap">NEW YORK · BOSTON · CHICAGO · DALLAS<br>
+ATLANTA · SAN FRANCISCO</span><br>
+<br>
+
+MACMILLAN &amp; <abbr title="Company">CO.</abbr>, <abbr title="Limited"><span class="smcap">Limited</span></abbr><br>
+<span class="allsmcap">LONDON · BOMBAY · CALCUTTA<br>
+MELBOURNE</span><br>
+<br>
+
+THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, <span class="smcap">Ltd.</span><br>
+<span class="allsmcap">TORONTO</span>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a><a id="Page_iv"></a></span></p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp54" id="frontis" style="max-width: 50.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="Color photograph with canyon walls extending up the sides; the left side is sunlit, the right in shadows; a brown river curls through the bottom of the canyon; a light blue sky forms a V at the top between the two canyon walls.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb <abbr title="Brothers">Bros.</abbr></i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE GRAND CANYON AT THE MOUTH OF HA VA SU CREEK.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v"></span></p>
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center tall">
+<span class="xxl"><i>Through the Grand Canyon</i><br>
+<i>from Wyoming to Mexico</i></span><br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="x-ebookmaker-important"><span class="larger"><i>By</i></span><br>
+<span class="muchlarger"><i>E. L. Kolb</i></span></span><br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="larger"><i>With a Foreword by Owen Wister</i></span><br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="small"><i>New Edition</i><br>
+<i>With Additional Illustrations</i><br>
+<i>(72 Plates)</i><br>
+<i>From Photographs by the</i><br>
+<i>Author and His Brother</i></span><br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="small"><i>New York</i></span><br>
+<i>The Macmillan Company</i><br>
+<i>1915</i><br>
+<span class="smaller"><i>All rights reserved</i></span>
+</p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi"></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1914,<br>
+BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.</p>
+<hr class="r5">
+
+<p class="center">Set up and electrotyped. Published October, 1914. Reprinted<br>
+December, 1914. New edition published June, 1915.</p>
+
+<p class="p4 center smaller"><strong>Norwood Press</strong><br>
+J. S. Cushing Co.—Berwick &amp; Smith Co.<br>
+Norwood, <abbr title="Massachusetts">Mass.</abbr>, U.S.A.
+</p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii"></span></p>
+<p class="center tall">
+<strong>Dedication</strong><br>
+<span class="allsmcap">TO THE MANY FRIENDS<br>
+WHO “PULLED” FOR US, IF NOT WITH US<br>
+DURING THE ONE HUNDRED ONE DAYS OF OUR RIVER TRIP<br>
+THIS VOLUME<br>
+IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a><a id="Page_ix"></a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD">
+    FOREWORD
+  </h2>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is a dogged courage of which the author of this book
+is the serene possessor—shared equally by his daring brother;
+and evidence of this bravery is made plain throughout the
+following pages. Every youth who has in him a spark of
+adventure will kindle with desire to battle his way also from
+Green River to the foot of Bright Angel Trail; while every
+man whose bones have been stiffened and his breath made
+short by the years, will remember wistfully such wild tastes
+of risk and conquest that he, too, rejoiced in when he was
+young.</p>
+
+<p>Whether it deal with the climbing of dangerous peaks, or
+the descent (as here) of some fourteen hundred miles of water
+both mysterious and ferocious, the well-told tale of a perilous
+journey, planned with head and carried through with dauntless
+persistence, always holds the attention of its readers and
+gives them many a thrill. This tale is very well told. Though
+it is the third of its kind, it differs from its predecessors more
+than enough to hold its own: no previous explorers have
+attempted to take moving pictures of the Colorado River with
+themselves weltering in its foam. More than this: while the
+human race lasts it will be true, that any man who is lucky
+enough to fix upon a hard goal and win it, and can in direct
+and simple words tell us how he won it, will write a good book.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x"></span></p>
+
+<p>Perhaps this planet does somewhere else contain a thing
+like the Colorado River—but that is no matter; we at any
+rate in our continent possess one of nature’s very vastest
+works. After The River and its tributaries have done with
+all sight of the upper world, have left behind the bordering
+plains and streamed through the various gashes which their
+floods have sliced in the mountains that once stopped their
+way, then the culminating wonder begins. The River has
+been flowing through the loneliest part which remains to us
+of that large space once denominated “The Great American
+Desert” by the vague maps in our old geographies. It has
+passed through regions of emptiness still as wild as they were
+before Columbus came; where not only no man lives now
+nor any mark is found of those forgotten men of the cliffs,
+but the very surface of the earth itself looks monstrous and
+extinct. Upon one such region in particular the author of
+these pages dwells, when he climbs up out of the gulf in whose
+bottom he has left his boat by the River, to look out upon a
+world of round gray humps and hollows which seem as if it
+were made of the backs of huge elephants. Through such a
+country as this, scarcely belonging to our era any more than
+the mammoth or the pterodactyl, scarcely belonging to time
+at all, does the Colorado approach and enter its culminating
+marvel. Then, for 283 miles it inhabits a nether world of its
+own. The few that have ventured through these places and
+lived are a handful to those who went in and were never seen
+again. The white bones of some have been found on the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi"></span>shores; but most were drowned; and in this water no bodies
+ever rise, because the thick sand that its torrent churns along
+clogs and sinks them.</p>
+
+<p>This place exerts a magnetic spell. The sky is there
+above it, but not of it. Its being is apart; its climate; its
+light; its own. The beams of the sun come into it like visitors.
+Its own winds blow through it, not those of outside,
+where we live. The River streams down its mysterious
+reaches, hurrying ceaselessly; sometimes a smooth sliding
+lap, sometimes a falling, broken wilderness of billows and
+whirlpools. Above stand its walls, rising through space upon
+space of silence. They glow, they gloom, they shine. Bend
+after bend they reveal themselves, endlessly new in endlessly
+changing veils of colour. A swimming and jewelled blue predominates,
+as of sapphires being melted and spun into skeins
+of shifting cobweb. Bend after bend this trance of beauty
+and awe goes on, terrible as the Day of Judgment, sublime
+as the Psalms of David. Five thousand feet below the opens
+and barrens of Arizona, this canyon seems like an avenue conducting
+to the secret of the universe and the presence of the
+gods.</p>
+
+<p>Is much wonder to be felt that its beckoning enchantment
+should have drawn two young men to dwell beside it for many
+years; to give themselves wholly to it; to descend and ascend
+among its buttressed pinnacles; to discover caves and waterfalls
+hidden in its labyrinths; to climb, to creep, to hang in
+mid-air, in order to learn more and more of it, and at last
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii"></span>to gratify wholly their passion in the great adventure of this
+journey through it from end to end? No siren song could
+have lured travellers more than the siren silence of the Grand
+Canyon: but these young men did not leave their bones to
+whiten upon its shores. The courage that brought them
+out whole is plain throughout this narrative, in spite of its
+modesty.</p>
+
+<p class="right r2">
+  OWEN WISTER.
+</p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii"></span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">
+    PREFACE
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> is a simple narrative of our recent photographic trip
+down the Green and Colorado rivers in rowboats—our observations
+and impressions. It is not intended to replace in
+any way the books published by others covering a similar
+journey. Major J. W. Powell’s report of the original exploration,
+for instance, is a classic, literary and geological; and
+searchers after excellence may well be recommended to his
+admirable work.</p>
+
+<p>Neither is this chronicle intended as a handbook of the
+territory traversed—such as Mr. F. S. Dellenbaugh’s two
+volumes: “The Romance of the Grand Canyon,” and “A
+Canyon Voyage.” We could hardly hope to add anything
+of value to his wealth of detail. In fact, much of the data
+given here—such as distances, elevations, and records of
+other expeditions—is borrowed from the latter volume.
+And I take this opportunity of expressing our appreciation
+to Mr. Dellenbaugh for his most excellent and entertaining
+books.</p>
+
+<p>We are indebted to Mr. Julius F. Stone, of Columbus,
+Ohio, for much valuable information and assistance. Mr.
+Stone organized a party and made the complete trip down
+the Green and Colorado rivers in the fall and winter of 1909,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv"></span>arriving at Needles, California, on November 27, 1909.
+He freely gave us the benefit of his experience and presented
+us with the complete plans of the boats he used.</p>
+
+<p>One member of this party was Nathan Galloway, of Richfield,
+Utah. To him we owe much of the success of our
+journey. Mr. Galloway hunts and traps through the wilds
+of Utah, Colorado, and Arizona, and has a fame for skill and
+nerve throughout this entire region. He makes a yearly trip
+through the upper canyons, usually in a boat of his own construction;
+and in addition has the record of being the only
+person who has made two complete trips through the entire
+series of canyons, clear to Needles. He it is who has worked
+out the type of boats we used, and their management in the
+dangerous waters of the Colorado.</p>
+
+<p>We have tried to make this narrative not only simple, as
+we say, but truthful. However, no two people can see things
+in exactly the same light. To some, nothing looks big; to
+others, every little danger is unconsciously magnified out of
+all proportion. For instance, we can recall rapids which appeared
+rather insignificant at first, but which seemed decidedly
+otherwise after we had been overturned in them and had felt
+their power—especially at the moment when we were sure we
+had swallowed a large part of the water that composed them.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will kindly excuse the use of the first person,
+both singular and plural. It is our own story, after all, and
+there seems to be no other way than to tell it as you find it
+here.</p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv"></span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">
+    CONTENTS
+</h2>
+<table data-summary="contents">
+ <thead class="muchsmaller">
+  <tr><th class="tdc" scope="col">CHAPTER</th>
+      <th class="tdr" scope="colgroup" colspan="2">PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+ </thead>
+ <tbody>
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="One">I</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Preparations at Green River City, Wyoming</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Two">II</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Interesting Sights of Southern Wyoming</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Three">III</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">The Gateway of All the Canyons</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Four">IV</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Suspicious Hosts</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Five">V</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">The Battle With Lodore</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Six">VI</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Hell’s Half Mile</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Seven">VII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Jimmy Goes Over the Mountain</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Eight">VIII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">An Inland Excursion</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Nine">IX</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Canyon of Desolation</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Ten">X</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Hospitable Ranchmen</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Eleven">XI</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Wonders of Erosion</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twelve">XII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Could We Succeed?</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Thirteen">XIII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">A Companion Voyager</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Fourteen">XIV</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">A Patient Amid the Cataracts</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Fifteen">XV</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Placer Gold</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Sixteen">XVI</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">A Warning</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Seventeen">XVII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">A Night of Thrills</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Eighteen">XVIII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Marble Halls and Marble Walls</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Nineteen">XIX</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Signalling Our Canyon Home</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty">XX</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">One Month Later</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-one">XXI</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">What Christmas Eve Brought</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_235">235</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-two">XXII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Short of Provisions in a Sunless Gorge</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_249">249</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-three">XXIII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">The Last Portage and the Last Rapids</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_267">267</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-four">XXIV</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">On the Crest of a Flood</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_280">280</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-five">XXV</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Four Days to Yuma</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-six">XXVI</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">Across the Mexico Border</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_303">303</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdr pad1 vlt"><abbr title="Twenty-seven">XXVII</abbr>.</td>
+    <td class="tdh smcap">The Gulf of California</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb pad2"><a href="#Page_321">321</a></td></tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi"></a><a id="Page_xvii"></a></span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="Illustrations">
+    ILLUSTRATIONS
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<table data-summary="contents">
+<tbody>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Grand Canyon near the mouth of Ha Va Su Creek</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#frontis"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><th class="tdr muchsmaller" scope="colgroup" colspan="2">FACING PAGE</th></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">After a difficult picture. E. C. Kolb on rope</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_002-fp">2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">In the Grand Canyon near the Little Colorado</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_006-fp">6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The start at Green River, Wyoming</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_010a-fp">10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Fire Hole Chimneys</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_010b-fp">10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A typical butte formation</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_014-fp">14</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Boats and crew. Photo taken in the Grand Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_018-fp">18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Skeleton found in the Grand Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_022-fp">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Inside of the first canyons</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_026a-fp">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Tilted rocks at Kingfisher Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_026b-fp">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“Immense rocks had fallen from the cliff”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_036-fp">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Ashley Falls, looking down-stream</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_040-fp">40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The rocks were dark red; occasional pines grew on the
+  ledges, making a charming combination of colour</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_044-fp">44</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“We stopped at one hay ranch close to the Utah-Colorado
+  line”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_048-fp">48</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Remarkable entrance to Lodore Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_052-fp">52</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“The river cut a channel under the walls” at Lower
+  Disaster Falls</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_056a-fp">56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“Everything was wet”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_056b-fp">56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A Colorado River salmon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_060a-fp">60</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Lodore Canyon as seen from Brown’s Park.</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_060b-fp">60</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“The Canyon was gloomy and darkened with shreds of
+  clouds”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_064-fp">64</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“It took nine loads to empty one boat”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_068a-fp">68</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdh">“An upright log was found wedged between the boulders”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii"></span></td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_068b-fp">68</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Echo Cliffs. “This was the end of Lodore”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_072a-fp">72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">End of Echo Cliffs. The mouth of the Yampa River is
+on the right</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_072b-fp">72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Marvels of erosion</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_076-fp">76</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“Here was one end of the rainbow of rock that began
+on the other side of the mountains”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_080-fp">80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Pat Lynch: the canyon hermit</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_084-fp">84</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Each bed was placed in a rubber and a canvas sack</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_090-fp">90</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“Now for a fish story”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_100-fp">100</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The centre of three symmetrical formations in the Double
+Bow Knot</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_114-fp">114</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Buttes of the Cross</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_118-fp">118</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“The Land of Standing Rocks was like a maze”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_122a-fp">122</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Rocks overhanging the Colorado’s Gorge</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_122b-fp">122</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Thirteen hundred feet above the Green River</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_124-fp">124</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The junction of the Green and the Grand Rivers</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_128-fp">128</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Looking west into Cataract Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_132a-fp">132</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Charles Smith and his boat</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_132b-fp">132</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A narrow channel at Rapid <abbr title="Number">No</abbr>. 22</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_136a-fp">136</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Developing tests</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_136b-fp">136</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Rapid No. 22 in Cataract Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_140-fp">140</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> in a cataract</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_144a-fp">144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A seventy-five-foot drop in three-fourths of a mile</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_144b-fp">144</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Camp in the heart of Cataract Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_148-fp">148</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Lower Cataract Canyon. Boats tandem</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_152a-fp">152</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Beginning of a natural bridge. Glen Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_152b-fp">152</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Pictographs in Glen Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_158-fp">158</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Cliff ruins near San Juan River</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_162a-fp">162</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking south</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_162b-fp">162</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking north</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_166-fp">166</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Glen Canyon near Navajo Mountain</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_170a-fp">170</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdh">Upper Marble Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_170b-fp">170</a>
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix"></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Placer dredge at Lee’s Ferry</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_174-fp">174</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Badger Creek Rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_180a-fp">180</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Bands of marble in Marble Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_180b-fp">180</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A peaceful camp in Marble Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_184-fp">184</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Soap Creek Rapid; a little above lowest stage. Photo
+  published by permission of Julius F. Stone</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_188-fp">188</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“It was too good a camp to miss”</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_192a-fp">192</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Arch in Marble Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_192b-fp">192</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Walls of Marble Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_196-fp">196</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Approaching the Grand Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_200-fp">200</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">End of Marble Canyon, from the mouth of the Little
+  Colorado</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_204a-fp">204</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Cataracts of the Little Colorado River</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_204b-fp">204</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">End of Hance Trail. Small white line is an intrusion of
+  quartz in the algonkian</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_208-fp">208</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Below the Sockdologer</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_210-fp">210</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Rust Tramway. Span four hundred and fifty feet</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_214-fp">214</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Bright Angel Creek and Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_218-fp">218</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Leaving home, Dec. 19, 1911</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_222a-fp">222</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A composite picture of Marble Canyon walls and a Grand
+  Canyon rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_222b-fp">222</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> (on left of central rock) in
+  Granite Falls</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_226-fp">226</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Rough water in Hermit Creek Rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_230-fp">230</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Type of rapid in the granite near Bass Trail</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_234-fp">234</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The inner plateau, thirteen hundred feet above the river</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_238a-fp">238</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Bert Lauzon, above Separation Rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_238b-fp">238</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The break in the <i class="shipname">Edith</i></td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_242a-fp">242</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Merry Christmas. The repair was made with bilge boards,
+  canvas, paint, and tin</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_242b-fp">242</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Pulling clear of a rock</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_246a-fp">246</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A shower bath</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_246b-fp">246</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Grand Canyon at the mouth of Ha Va Su Canyon. Medium
+high water. Frontispiece shows same place in
+low water</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_250-fp">250</a>
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx"></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">“Morning revealed a little snow,” on the top</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_252a-fp">252</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">New Year’s Eve was spent in this section between the
+highest sheer walls in the lower gorge</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_252b-fp">252</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Lava Falls. Lava on left, hot springs on right</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_254-fp">254</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Swift water in Tapeets Creek Rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_260a-fp">260</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Lauzon, equipped with a life preserver on a rope, on
+guard below a rapid</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_260b-fp">260</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">In the last granite gorge</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_260c-fp">260</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Capt. Burro: a Ha Va Supai</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_266-fp">266</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Last Portage. The rocks were ice-filmed. Note
+potholes</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_270-fp">270</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Mooney Falls: Ha Va Su Canyon</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_274-fp">274</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Watching for the signal fire. Mrs. Emery and Edith Kolb</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_278-fp">278</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The granite gorge near Bright Angel Trail</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_282-fp">282</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Grand Canyon from the head of Bright Angel Trail</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_286-fp">286</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">The Cork Screw: lower end of Bright Angel Trail</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_290-fp">290</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Zoroaster Temple from the end of Bright Angel Trail</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_298-fp">298</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Winter in the Grand Canyon from the Rim</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_308a-fp">308</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Winter in the Grand Canyon at the River</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_308b-fp">308</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">A vaquero in the making</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_318a-fp">318</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Cliff swallows’ nests. Found from Wyoming to Mexico</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_318b-fp">318</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_326a-fp">326</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Cocopah Mountain, Mexico</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_326b-fp">326</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Ten miles from the Gulf of California. Coming up on
+a twenty-foot tide</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_332a-fp">332</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdh">Sunset on the lower Colorado River</td>
+    <td class="tdr vlb"><a href="#i_332b-fp">332</a></td></tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxi"></span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="Through_the_Grand_Canyon">
+    <i>Through the Grand Canyon
+    from Wyoming to Mexico</i>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxii"></span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp51" id="i_001-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_001-fp.jpg" alt="Black and white map showing route of travel from Wyoming, through Utah, Arizona, California, and northern Mexico.">
+</figure>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1"></span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="THROUGH_THE_GRAND_CANYON_FROM">
+    THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM
+    WYOMING TO MEXICO
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<h3>CHAPTER I</h3>
+
+<h4>PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> in September of 1911 my brother Emery and I
+landed in Green River City, Wyoming, ready for the
+launching of our boats on our long-planned trip down the
+Green and Colorado rivers.</p>
+
+<p>For ten years previous to this time we had lived at
+the Grand Canyon of Arizona, following the work of
+scenic photography. In a general way we had covered
+much of the country adjacent to our home, following
+our pack animals over ancient and little-used trails,
+climbing the walls of tributary canyons, dropping over
+the ledges with ropes when necessary, always in search of
+the interesting and unusual.</p>
+
+<p>After ten years of such work many of our plans in
+connection with a pictorial exploration of the Grand
+Canyon were crowned with success. Yet all the while
+our real ambition remained unsatisfied.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2"></span></p>
+
+<p>We wanted to make the “Big Trip”—as we called
+it; in other words, we wanted a pictorial record of the
+entire series of canyons on the Green and Colorado rivers.</p>
+
+<p>The time had come at last, after years of hoping,
+after long months of active preparation.</p>
+
+<p>We stood at the freight window of the station at
+Green River City asking for news of our boats. They
+had arrived and could be seen in their crates shoved away
+in a corner. It was too late to do anything with them
+that day; so we let them remain where they were, and
+went out to look over the town.</p>
+
+<p>Green River City proved to be a busy little place
+noisy with switch engines, crowded with cattle-men
+and cowboys, and with hunting parties outfitting for
+the Jackson Hole country. A thoroughly Western town
+of the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people
+and surroundings that the name implies.</p>
+
+<p>It was busier than usual, even, that evening; for
+a noisy but good-natured crowd had gathered around the
+telegraph office, eager for news of a wrestling match
+then taking place in an Eastern city. As we came up
+they broke into a cheer at the news that the American
+wrestler had defeated his foreign opponent. There was
+a discussion as to what constituted the “toe-hold,”
+three boys ran an impromptu foot-race, there was some
+talk on the poor condition of the range, and the party
+began to break up.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_002-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_002-fp.jpg" alt="Emery is suspended in a narrow canyon by a rope, holding onto another rope, the bottom of which is not visible. Both ropes are affixed to a log that spans the gap between the walls of the canyon. Ellsworth straddles the gap with one foot at each end of the log.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+<p class="allsmcap">AFTER A DIFFICULT PICTURE. E. C. KOLB ON THE ROPE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3"></span></p>
+
+<p>The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel;
+feeling, in spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome
+and very much out of place. Our sleep that night was
+fitful and broken by dreams wherein the places we had
+known were strangely interwoven with these new scenes
+and events. Through it all we seemed to hear the roar
+of the Rio Colorado.</p>
+
+<p>We looked out of the window the next morning, on
+a landscape that was novel, yet somehow familiar. The
+river, a quarter of a mile away, very clear and unruffled
+under its groves of cottonwood, wound through low
+barren hills, as unlike as could be to the cliffs and chasms
+we knew so well. But the colours—gray, red, and umber,
+just as Moran has painted them—reassured us. We
+seemed not so far from home, after all.</p>
+
+<p>It was Wyoming weather, though; clear and cold,
+after a windy night. When, after breakfast, we went
+down to the river, we found that a little ice had formed
+along the margin.</p>
+
+<p>The days of final preparation passed quickly—with
+unpacking of innumerable boxes and bundles,
+checking off each article against our lists; and with a long
+and careful overhauling of our photographic outfit.</p>
+
+<p>This last was a most important task, for the success
+of our expedition depended on our success as photographers.
+We could not hope to add anything of importance
+to the scientific and topographic knowledge of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4"></span>canyons already existing: and merely to come out alive
+at the other end did not make a strong appeal to our
+vanity. We were there as scenic photographers in love
+with their work, and determined to reproduce the marvels
+of the Colorado’s canyons, as far as we could do it.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to three film cameras we had 8 × 10 and
+5 × 7 plate cameras; a plentiful supply of plates and
+films; a large cloth dark-room; and whatever chemicals
+we should need for tests. Most important of all, we
+had brought a motion-picture camera. We had no real
+assurance that so delicate an apparatus, always difficult
+to use and regulate, could even survive the journey—much
+less, in such inexperienced hands as ours, reproduce
+its wonders. But this, nevertheless, was our secret
+hope, hardly admitted to our most intimate friends—that
+we could bring out a record of the Colorado
+as it is, a live thing, armed as it were with teeth, ready to
+crush and devour.</p>
+
+<p>There was shopping to do; for the purchases of provisions,
+with a few exceptions, had been left to the last.
+There were callers, too—an embarrassing number of
+them. We had camped on a small island near the town,
+not knowing when we did so that it had recently been
+put aside for a public park. The whole of Green River
+City, it seemed, had learned of our project, and came to
+inspect, or advise, or jeer at us. The kindest of them
+wished us well; the other sort told us “it would serve us
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5"></span>right”; but not one of our callers had any encouragement
+to offer. Many were the stories of disaster and death
+with which they entertained us. One story in particular,
+as it seems never to have reached print—though unquestionably
+true—ought to be set down here.</p>
+
+<p>Three years before two young men from St. Louis had
+embarked here, intending to follow the river throughout
+its whole course. They were expert canoeists, powerful
+swimmers, and equipped with a steel boat, we were told,
+built somewhat after the style of a canoe. They chose
+the time of high water—not knowing, probably, that
+while high water decreases the labour of the passage, it
+greatly increases the danger of it. They came to the first
+difficult rapid in Red Canyon, seventy odd miles below
+Green River City. It looked bad to them. They landed
+above it and stripped to their underclothing and socks.
+Then they pushed out into the stream.</p>
+
+<p>Almost at once they lost control of the boat. It overturned;
+it rolled over and over; it flung them off and
+left them swimming for their lives. In some way, possibly
+the currents favouring, they reached the shore. The
+boat, with all its contents, was gone. There they were,
+almost naked, without food, without weapons, without the
+means of building a fire; and in an uninhabited and
+utterly inhospitable country.</p>
+
+<p>For four days they wandered, blistered by the sun by
+day; nearly frozen at night, bruised by the rocks, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6"></span>torn by the brambles. Finally they reached the ranch
+at the head of the canyons and were found by a half-breed
+Indian, who cared for them. Their underwear
+had been made into bindings for their lacerated feet;
+they were nearly starved, and on the verge of mental
+collapse. After two weeks’ treatment in the hospital
+at Green River City they were partially restored to health.
+Quite likely they spent many of the long hours of their
+convalescence on the river bank, or on the little island,
+watching the unruffled stream glide underneath the cottonwoods.</p>
+
+<p>Such tales as this added nothing to our fears, of course—for
+the whole history of the Colorado is one long story
+of hardship and disaster, and we knew, even better than
+our advisors, what risks lay before us. We told our newfound
+friends, in fact, that we had lived for years on the
+brink of the Grand Canyon itself, a gorge deeper and more
+awful, even, than Lodore; with a volume of water ten
+times greater. We knew, of course, of the river’s vast
+length, of the terrible gorges that confined it, of the
+hundreds of rapids through which a boat would have
+to pass.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_006-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_006-fp.jpg" alt="View of the canyon from atop a canyon wall. A man and a burro are on top of the near canyon ridge. The river snakes through an open section of the canyon in the distance.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">IN THE GRAND CANYON NEAR THE LITTLE COLORADO.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We knew, too, how Major Powell, undismayed by
+legends of underground channels, impassable cataracts,
+and whirlpools; of bloodthirsty tribes haunting its recesses,—had
+passed through the canyons in safety, measuring
+and surveying as he went. We also knew of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7"></span>many other attempts that had been made—most of them
+ending in disaster or death, a very few being successful.</p>
+
+<p>Well, it had been done;&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> it could be done again—this
+was our answer to their premonitions.</p>
+
+<p>We had present worries enough to keep us from dwelling
+too much on the future. It had been our intention to
+start two weeks earlier, but there had been numerous
+unavoidable delays. The river was low; “the lowest
+they had seen it in years” they told us, and falling lower
+every day. There were the usual difficulties of arranging
+a lot of new material, and putting it in working order.</p>
+
+<p>At last we were ready for the boats, and you may be
+sure we lost no time in having them hauled to the river,
+and launching them.</p>
+
+<p>They were beauties—these two boats of ours—graceful,
+yet strong in line, floating easily, well up in the water,
+in spite of their five hundred pounds’ weight. They were
+flat-bottomed, with a ten-inch rake or raise at either
+end; built of white cedar, with unusually high sides;
+with arched decks in bow and stern, for the safe storing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8"></span>of supplies. Sealed air chambers were placed in each end,
+large enough to keep the boats afloat even if filled with
+water. The compartment at the bow was lined with tin,
+carefully soldered, so that even a leak in the bottom would
+not admit water to our precious cargoes. We had placed
+no limit on their cost, only insisting that they should be
+of materials and workmanship of the very best, and
+strictly in accordance with our specifications. In every
+respect but one they pleased us. Imagine our consternation
+when we discovered that the hatch covers were
+anything but water-tight, though we had insisted more
+upon this, perhaps, than upon any other detail. Loose
+boards, with cross-pieces, fastened with little thumbscrews—there
+they were, ready to admit the water at
+the very first upset.</p>
+
+<p>There was nothing to be done. It was too late to
+rebuild the hatches even if we had had the proper material.
+Owing to the stage of water it was imperative
+that we should start at once. Bad as it would be to have
+water in our cargo, it would be worse to have too little
+water in the rock-obstructed channels of Red Canyon, or
+in the “flats” at Brown’s Park for instance.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly the boats acted so beautifully in the water
+that we could almost overlook the defective hatches.
+Emery rowed upstream for a hundred yards, against a
+stiff current, and came back jubilant.</p>
+
+<p>“They’re great—simply great!” he exclaimed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9"></span></p>
+
+<p>We had one real cause for worry, for actual anxiety,
+though; and as each hour brought us nearer to the time of
+departure, we grew more and more desperate. What
+about our third man?</p>
+
+<p>We were convinced that a third man was needed; if
+not for the duties of camp making, helping with the cooking
+and portaging; at least, for turning the crank of the
+motion-picture camera. Emery and I could not very
+well be running rapids, and photographing ourselves in
+the rapids at the same time. Without a capable assistant,
+therefore, much of the real purpose would be defeated.</p>
+
+<p>Our first move, accordingly, had been to secure the
+services of a strong, level-headed, and competent man.
+Friends strongly advised us to engage a Canadian canoe-man,
+or at least some one familiar with the management
+of boats in rough water. It was suggested, also, that we
+might secure the help of some one of the voyagers who
+had been members of one of the previous expeditions.</p>
+
+<p>But—we may as well be frank about it—we did not
+wish to be piloted through the Colorado by a guide. We
+wanted to make our own trip in our own way. If we
+failed, we would have no one but ourselves to blame; if
+we succeeded, we would have all the satisfaction that
+comes from original, personal exploration. In other
+words, we wanted a man to execute orders, not to give
+them. But that man was hard to find!</p>
+
+<p>There had been many applicants; some of them from
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10"></span>distant parts of the country. One by one they were
+sifted out. At length we decided on one man; but later
+he withdrew. We turned elsewhere, but these applications
+were withdrawn, until there remained but a
+single letter, from a young man in San Francisco. He
+seemed in every way qualified. We wrote accepting his
+application, but while waiting to hear from us a civil
+service position had been offered and accepted. “He
+was sorry”; and so were we, for his references proved
+that he was a capable man. Later he wrote that he had
+secured a substitute. We replied on the instant, by wiring
+money for transportation, with instructions for the
+new man to report at once at Green River. We took very
+much for granted, having confidence in our friends’ sincerity
+and knowledge of just what was required.</p>
+
+<p>The time had passed, two days before; but—no sign
+of our man! We wrote, we telegraphed, we walked back
+and forth to every train; but still he did not come. Had
+this man, too, failed us?</p>
+
+<p>Then “Jimmy” came—just the night before we were
+to leave. And never was a man more heartily welcome!</p>
+
+<p>With James Fagen of San Francisco our party was
+complete. He was an Irish-American, aged 22 years, a
+strong, active, and willing chap. To be sure, he was
+younger, and not so experienced at “roughing it” as we
+had hoped. But his good qualities, we were sure, would
+make up for what was lacking.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp78" id="i_010a-fp" style="max-width: 79.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_010a-fp.jpg" alt="Two rowboats and gear are beached on a rocky river shore. A little above on a flat section, two mean are seated, four are standing; two cameras are on tripods. Two men are riding in a horse-drawn cart, and another man watches on horseback. A village is in the background, behind which is a high, tree-less mesa.">
+  <figcaption class="allsmcap">
+    THE START AT GREEN RIVER, WYOMING.
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_010b-fp" style="max-width: 78.875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_010b-fp.jpg" alt="Calm waters are in the foreground. On the opposite shore are conical, eroded hills capped by uneroded blocks. The erosion has made stripes visible of various geologic strata.">
+  <figcaption class="allsmcap">
+    FIRE HOLE CHIMNEYS.
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11"></span></p>
+
+<p>Evening found us encamped a half mile below the town,
+the county bridge. Our preparations were finished—even
+to the final purchase of odds and ends; with ammunition
+for shot-gun and rifle. We threw our sleeping-bags
+on the dry ground close to the river’s edge, and, all our
+anxieties gone, we turned our faces to the stars and slept.</p>
+
+<p>At daybreak we were aroused by the thunder of hoofs
+on the bridge above us, and the shouts of cowboys driving
+a large herd of half-broken horses. We tumbled into
+our clothes, splashed our faces with ice-cold water from
+the river, and hurried over to the hotel for a last breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>Then we sat down—in the little hotel at Green River
+City—as others had done before, to write last messages
+to those who were nearest and dearest to us. A telegram
+to our parents in an Eastern city; and another to Emery’s
+wife and little girl, at Bright Angel, more than eight
+hundred miles down this self-same river—these, somehow,
+took longer to write than the letters themselves.
+But whatever we may have felt, we finished this final
+correspondence in silence, and hurried back to the river.</p>
+
+<p>Something of a crowd had gathered on the bridge to
+wish us <i>bon voyage</i>. Shouting up to them our thanks for
+their hospitality, and telling them to “look pleasant,”
+we focussed the motion-picture camera on them, Emery
+turning the crank, as the boat swung out into the current.</p>
+
+<p>So began our journey, on Friday, September the 8th,
+1911, at 9.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, as entered in my journal.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">
+    CHAPTER II
+    </h3>
+ <h4>INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">All</span> this preparation—and still more, the vexatious
+delays—had been a heavy tax upon us. We needed a
+vacation. We took it—six pleasant care-free days—hunting
+and fishing as we drifted through the sixty miles
+of southern Wyoming. There were ducks and geese on
+the river to test our skill with the shot-gun. Only two
+miles below Green River City Emery secured our first
+duck, a promise of good sport to follow. An occasional
+cottontail rabbit was seen, scurrying to cover through
+the sage-brush, when we made a detour from the boats.
+We saw many jack-rabbits too—with their long legs,
+and exaggerated ears—creatures swifter, even, than the
+coyotes themselves.</p>
+
+<p>We saw few people, though an occasional rancher hailed
+us from the shore. Men of the open themselves, the
+character of our expedition appealed to them. Their
+invitations to “come up to the ranch, and spend the
+evening” were always hearty, and could seldom be refused
+if the day was nearly gone.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13"></span></p>
+
+<p>The Logan boys’ ranch, for instance, was our first
+camp; but will be one of the last to be forgotten. The
+two Logan boys were sturdy, companionable young men,
+full of pranks, and of that bubbling, generous humour
+that flourishes in this Western air. We were amused by
+their kindly offer to allow Jimmy to ride “the little bay”—a
+beautiful animal, with the shifty eye of a criminal.
+But Jimmy, though city-bred, was not to be trapped, and
+declined; very wisely, as we thought. We photographed
+their favourite horses, and the cabin; also helped them
+with their own camera, and developed some plates in
+the underground storm-cellar,—a perfect dark-room, as
+it happened.</p>
+
+<p>We took advantage of this pleasant camp to make a
+few alterations about our boats. Certain mechanical
+details had been neglected in our desire to be off, our
+intention being to look after them as occasion demanded.
+Our short run had already shown us where we were weak
+or unprepared. The rowlocks needed strengthening.
+One had come apart in our first brush with a little riffle.
+The rowlocks were of a little-used type, but very serviceable
+in dangerous waters. Inside the usual rowlock a
+heavy ring was hung, kept in place by strong set-screws,
+but allowing full play in every direction. These rings
+were slipped over the oars; then the usual leather collar
+was nailed on the oar, making it impossible for the rings
+to become separated from the oars. The holes for the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14"></span>set-screws were too shallow, so we went over the entire
+lot to deepen them. We foresaw where a break might
+occur, and hung another lock of the open type on a cord,
+beside each oar, ready for instant use in case of emergency.</p>
+
+<p>The Logan boys, seeing our difficulties in making some
+of these changes, came to our relief. “Help yourselves
+to the blacksmith shop,” they said heartily. Here was
+an opportunity. Much time was consumed in providing
+a device to hold our extra oars—out of the way on top
+of the deck, but available at a moment’s notice. Thanks
+to the Logan boys and their blacksmith shop, these and
+many other little details were corrected once for all; and
+we launched our boats in confidence on the morning of
+September 10.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below we came to the locally famous Fire
+Hole Chimneys, interesting examples of the butte formation,
+so typical of the West. There were several of these
+buttes, about 800 feet high, composed of stratified rock;
+in colour quite similar to the rocks at Green River City,
+but capped with rock of a peculiar burnt appearance,
+though not of volcanic origin. Some of the buttes sloped
+up from the very edge of the river; others were separated
+from the river by low flats, covered with sage-brush and
+bunch-grass,—that nutritious food of the range stock.
+At the water’s edge was the usual fringe of willows, cottonwoods,
+and shrubs innumerable,—all mirrored in the
+limpid surface of Green River.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_014-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_014-fp.jpg" alt="View of a high hill of stratified rock, topped with a stone pointing upwards like a thumb. The river is in front of the rock, with shrubs and low vegetation in the foreground and along the sides of the photo.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A TYPICAL BUTTE FORMATION.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15"></span></p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the cliffs were a number of wild burros,
+old and young—fuzzy little baby-burros, looking ridiculously
+like jack-rabbits—snorting their indignation
+at our invasion of their privacy. Strange, by the way,
+how quickly these wild asses lose their wildness of carriage
+when broken, and lapse into the utmost docility!</p>
+
+<p>Just below the Chimneys Emery caught sight of fish
+gathered in a deep pool, under the foliage of a cottonwood
+tree which had fallen into the river. Our most tempting
+bait failed to interest them; so Emery, ever clever with
+hook and line, “snagged” one just to teach them better
+manners. It was a Colorado River salmon or whitefish.
+That evening I “snagged” a catfish and used this for
+salmon bait, a fourteen-pound specimen rewarding the
+attempt.</p>
+
+<p>These salmon were old friends of ours, being found from
+one end to the other of the Colorado, and on all its tributaries.
+They sometimes weigh twenty-five or thirty
+pounds, and are common at twenty pounds; being
+stockily built fish, with large, flat heads. They are not
+gamey, but afford a lot of meat with a very satisfying
+flavour.</p>
+
+<p>On September 11, about forty miles below Green River,
+we passed Black’s Fork, a tributary entering from the west.
+It is a stream of considerable length, but was of little
+volume at that time. The banks were cliffs about 300
+feet high, rugged, dark, and overhanging. Here were a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16"></span>half dozen eagles and many old nests—proof enough,
+if proof were needed, that we were in a little visited
+country. What strong, splendid birds they were; how
+powerful and graceful their flight as they circled up, and
+up, into the clear blue sky!</p>
+
+<p>Our next camp was at the Holmes’ ranch, a few miles
+below Black’s Fork. We tried to buy some eggs of
+Walter Holmes, and were told that we could have them
+on one condition—that we visit him that evening.
+This was a price we were only too glad to pay, and the
+evening will linger long in our memories.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Holmes entertained us with stories of hunting
+trips—after big game in the wilds of Colorado; and
+among the lakes of the Wind River Mountains, the
+distant source of the Green River. Mrs. Holmes and
+two young ladies entertained us with music; and Jimmy,
+much to our surprise, joined in with a full, rich baritone.
+It was late that night when we rolled ourselves in our
+blankets, on the banks twenty feet above the river.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we were shown a group of Mrs. Holmes’
+pets—several young rabbits and a kitten, romping
+together in the utmost good fellowship. The rabbits
+had been rescued from a watery grave in an irrigation
+ditch and carefully nursed back to life. We helped her
+search for a lame wild duck that had spurned the offer
+of a good home with civilized ducklings, and had taken
+to the sage-brush. Mrs. Holmes’ love of wild animals,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17"></span>however, failed to include the bald-headed eagle that
+had shown such an appetite for her spring chickens.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below this ranch we passed Bridger Crossing,
+a ford on an old trail through southern Wyoming.
+In pioneer days Jim Bridger’s home was on this very
+spot. But those romantic days are long since past;
+and where this world-famous scout once watched through
+the loopholes of his barricade, was an amazed youngster
+ten or eleven years old who gazed on us, then ran to the
+cabin and emerged with a rifle in his hands. We thought
+little of this incident at the time, but later we met the
+father of the boy and were told that the children had been
+left alone with the small boy as their only protector, and
+that he stood ready to defend the home against any
+possible marauders. No doubt we looked bad enough
+to him.</p>
+
+<p>Just below the ford the channel widened, and the
+river became very shallow, the low rolling hills falling
+away into a wide green prairie. We camped that night on
+a small island, low and treeless, but covered with deep,
+rank grass. Next morning our sleeping-bags were wet
+with frost and dew. A hard pull against a heavy wind
+between gradually deepening rocky banks made us more
+than glad to pitch camp at noon a short distance above
+the mouth of Henry’s Fork, a considerable stream flowing
+from the west. In the afternoon Emery and I decided
+to walk to Linwood, lying just across the Utah line, four
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18"></span>miles up Henry’s Fork. Jimmy preferred to remain
+with the boats.</p>
+
+<p>Between the river and a low mesa lay a large ranch of
+a different appearance from those others which we had
+passed. Those past were cattle ranches, with stock on
+the open range, and with little ground fit for cultivation,
+owing to the elevation. Here we found great, broad acres,
+fenced and cultivated, with thoroughbred stock—horses
+and cattle—contentedly grazing.</p>
+
+<p>This pastoral scene, with a background of rugged
+mountains, appealed strongly to our photographic instincts.
+After three or four exposures, we climbed the
+farthest fence and passing from alfalfa to sage-brush in
+one step, were at the foot of the mesa.</p>
+
+<p>Climbing to the summit, we beheld the village in the
+distance, in a beautiful green valley—a splendid example
+of Mormon irrigation and farming methods. Linwood
+proved to be the market-place for all the ranchers of this
+region. Dotting the foot-hills where water was less plentiful
+were occasional cabins, set down in the middle of
+hay ranches. All this husbandry only emphasized the
+surrounding desolation. Just beyond, dark in the southern
+sky, rose the great peaks of the Uintah range, the
+mountains we were so soon to enter.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_018-fp" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_018-fp.jpg" alt="The author stands on the shore at left holding the 'Defiance' by a line at the stern. Emery is seated in the hatch and Luzon lies on the prow. The river is calm and reflects low canyon walls in the distance.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller">
+    <span class="allsmcap">E. L. KOLB. &emsp; EMERY KOLB. &emsp; H. LAUZON.</span> &emsp; <i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">BOATS AND CREW. PHOTO TAKEN IN THE GRAND CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Storm-clouds had been gathering about one great snow-covered
+peak, far in the distance. These clouds spread
+and darkened, moving rapidly forward. We had taken
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19"></span>the hint and were already making all possible haste toward
+the town, hoping to reach it before the storm broke.
+But it was useless. Long before we had gained the edge
+of the valley the rain had commenced in the mountains,—small
+local storms, resembling delicate violet-coloured
+veils, hung in the dense pall of the clouds. There were
+far flashes of lightning, and the subdued roar of distant
+thunder, rapidly growing louder as the storm approached.
+Unable to escape a drenching, we paused a moment to
+wonder at the sight; to marvel—and shrink a little
+too—at the wild, incessant lightning. The peaks themselves
+seemed to be tumbling together, such was the
+continuous roar of thunder, punctuated by frequent
+deafening crashes.</p>
+
+<p>Then the storm came down upon us. Such torrents
+of rain we have seldom witnessed: such gusts of driving
+wind! At times we could scarcely make headway against
+it, but after most strenuous effort we neared the village.
+We hoped to find shelter under a bridge, but found innumerable
+muddy streams running through the planks.
+So we resumed our plodding, slipping and sliding in the
+black, bottomless mud.</p>
+
+<p>The storm by this time had passed as quickly as it
+came. Wet to our skins, we crawled into the little store
+and post-office combined, and found it filled with ranch
+hands, waiting for the weekly mail. We made a few
+purchases, wrote some letters, then went to a large boarding-house
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20"></span>near by and fortified ourselves with a generous,
+hot supper.</p>
+
+<p>There were comments by some of the men on our
+venture, but they lacked the true Green River tang.
+Here, close to the upper canyons, the unreasonable fear
+of the rapids gave way to a reasonable respect for them.
+Here we heard again of the two young men from St.
+Louis, and the mishaps that had befallen them. Here
+too we were to hear for the first time of the two Snyders,
+father and son, and the misfortunes that had overtaken
+them in Lodore Canyon, twenty years before. We were
+to hear more of these men later.</p>
+
+<p>We made what haste we could back to our boats,
+soon being overtaken by a horseman, a big-hearted
+Swede who insisted on carrying our load as long as we
+were going in his direction. How many just such instances
+of kindliness we were to experience on our journey
+down the river! How the West abounds with such men!
+It was dark when he left us a mile from the river. Here
+there was no road to follow, and we found that what had
+been numerous dry gullies before were now streams of
+muddy water. Two or three of these streams had to be
+crossed, and we had a disagreeable half hour in a marsh.
+Finally we reached the river, but not at the point where
+we had left our boats. We were uncertain whether the
+camp was above or below us, and called loudly for Jimmy,
+but received no answer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21"></span></p>
+
+<p>Emery felt sure that camp was upstream. So upstream
+we went, keeping back of the bushes that
+fringed the banks, carefully searching for a sign. After
+a few minutes’ hunt we heard a sound: a subdued rumble,
+not unlike the distant thunder heard that afternoon, or
+of boats being dragged over the pebbles. What could it
+be? We listened again, carefully this time, and discovered
+that it came from a point about thirty feet away,
+on the opposite side of the bushes. It could be only one
+thing. Jimmy’s snore had brought us home!</p>
+
+<p>Hurriedly securing some dry clothes from the rubber
+sacks, which contained our sleeping-bags as well, we made
+a quick change, and slid into the beds, inflating the air
+mattresses with our lungs after we were inside. Then we
+lay down contentedly to rest.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">
+    CHAPTER III
+    </h3>
+  <h4>THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> awoke the next morning full of anticipation.
+Something new lay ahead of us, a promise of variety.
+In plain sight of our camp lay the entrance to Flaming
+Gorge, the gateway to the entire series of canyons.
+Hurriedly finishing our camp duties, we loaded the boats,
+fastened down the hatches, and shoved off into the current,
+eager to be on our way.</p>
+
+<p>It was cloudy overhead and looked as if we were to
+have more rain. Even then it must have been raining
+away to the north, for a dirty, clay-colored torrent rushed
+through the dry arroyo of the night before, a stream large
+enough to discolour the water of the Green itself. But we
+thought little of this. We were used to seeing muddy
+water in the Colorado’s gorges; in fact we were surprised
+to find clear water at all, even in the Green River. Rowing
+downstream we found that the country sloped gently
+towards the mountains. The river skirted the edge of
+these foot-hills as if looking for a possible escape, then
+turned and entered the mountain at a sharp angle. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23"></span>walls sloped back considerably at first, and there was a
+little shore on either side.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_022-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_022-fp.jpg" alt="Steep, rugged canyon walls dominate the photo. In the lower right is a human skeleton lying on a ledge among cacti and rocks.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">SKELETON FOUND IN THE GRAND CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Somewhere near this point runs the dividing line of
+Wyoming and Utah.</p>
+
+<p>We considered the gateway a subject worthy of a
+motion picture, if taken from the deck of the boat; but
+doubted if it would be a success owing to the condition
+of the light and the motion of the boat. Still it was
+considered worthy of a trial, and the film was run through.</p>
+
+<p>The colour of the rocks at the entrance was a light red,
+but not out of the ordinary in brilliancy. The rock
+formation was stratified, but displaced; standing at an
+angle and flexed over on top with a ragged break here and
+there, showing plainly the great pressure to which the
+rocks had been subjected. The upheaval was not violent,
+the scientists tell us, but slow and even, allowing the
+river to maintain its old channel, sawing its way through
+the sandstone. The broken canyon walls, when well
+inside the gorge, were about 600 to 700 feet high. The
+mountains beyond and on either side were much higher.
+The growth on the mountain sides was principally evergreen;
+Douglas fir, the bull-pine and yellow pine. There
+was a species of juniper, somewhat different from the Utah
+juniper, with which we were familiar at the Grand Canyon.
+Bushes and undergrowth were dense above the steep
+canyon walls, which were bare. Willows, alder-thickets,
+and a few cottonwood trees lined the shores.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24"></span></p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the current had quickened, almost imperceptibly
+at first, but enough to put us on our guard.
+While there were no rapids, use was made of what swift
+water we found by practising on the method we would
+use in making a passage through the bad rapids. As to
+this method, unused as yet by either of us, we had received
+careful verbal instruction from Mr. Stone, who had
+made the trip two years before our own venture; and
+from other friends of Nathan Galloway, the trapper,
+the man who first introduced the method on the Green
+and Colorado rivers.</p>
+
+<p>Our experience on water of any kind was rather
+limited. Emery could row a boat, and row it well, before
+we left Green River, but had never gone over any large
+rapids. While he was not nearly so large or heavy as I,—weighing
+no more than 130 pounds, while I weighed 170
+pounds,—he made up for his lighter weight by a quickness
+and strength that often surprised me. He was
+always neat and clever in his method of handling his boat,
+taking a great deal of pride in keeping it free from marks,
+and avoiding rocks when making a landing. I had done
+very little rowing before leaving Green River, so little
+that I had difficulty in getting both oars in the water at
+the same time. Of course it did not take me long to
+learn that; but I did not have the knack of making clean
+landings, and bumped many rocks that my brother
+missed. Still I was improving all the time and was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25"></span>anxious to get into the rough water, feeling sure I would
+get through somehow, but doing my best in the meantime
+to get the knack of handling the boat properly before
+the rough water was reached.</p>
+
+<p>An occasional rock would stick up above the surface;
+the swift water would rush up on it, or drive past on either
+side. Instead of pulling downstream with might and
+main, and depending on a steersman with a sweep-oar
+to keep us clear of obstructions—the method usually
+adopted on large rivers, and by the earlier parties on the
+Colorado—by our method the single oarsman reversed
+his boat so that it was turned with the stern downstream,
+giving the oarsman a view of what was ahead; then by
+pulling upstream the boat was held in check. We
+allowed ourselves to be carried in a direct line with the
+rocks ahead, approaching them as closely as we dared;
+then, with a pull on one oar, the boat was turned slightly
+at an angle to the current, and swung to one side or the
+other; just as a ferry is headed into the current, the water
+itself helping to force it across. The ferry is held by a
+cable; the boat, by the oarsman; the results are quite
+similar.</p>
+
+<p>The boats, too, were somewhat unusual in design, having
+been carefully worked out by Galloway after much experience
+with the problem, and after building many boats.
+He finally settled on the design furnished us by Mr.
+Stone. The flat bottom, sloping up from the centre to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26"></span>either end, placed the boats on a pivot one might say, so
+that they could be turned very quickly, much more
+quickly than if they had had a keel. There was a four-foot
+skag or keel under the stern end of the boat, but
+this was only used when in quiet water; and as it was
+never replaced after being once removed we seldom refer
+to it. Being flat-bottomed, they drew comparatively
+little water, a matter quite important on low water such
+as we found in the Green River. While each boat carried
+a weight of seven hundred pounds in addition to its own
+five hundred pounds, they often passed over rocks less
+than ten inches below the surface, and did so without
+touching. While the boats were quite large, the arched
+decks made them look even larger. A considerable
+amount of material could be stored under these decks.
+The only part of the boat that was entirely open or unprotected
+from the waves was the cockpit, or mid-section
+occupied by the oarsman. This was only large enough
+for one man. A second man had to sit on the deck behind
+the oarsman, with his feet hanging into the cockpit.
+Jimmy occupied this place of honour as we drifted through
+the placid water; first on one boat, then on the other,
+entertaining us meanwhile with his songs.</p>
+
+<p>We encountered two splashy little rapids this day,
+but with no rocks, or any dangerous feature whatever.
+Any method, or none at all, was safe enough in these
+rapids.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_026a-fp" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_026a-fp.jpg" alt="In the foreground is shrubery and undergrowth next to a rocky shore. Beyond the calm river, rough, vertical canyon walls rise above the water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">INSIDE OF THE FIRST CANYONS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_026b-fp" style="max-width: 50.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_026b-fp.jpg" alt="A rowboat with one boater floats on a wide section of river that fills the lower half of the photo. The bottom and sides are framed with trees and shrubs. In the distance, canyon walls rise straight up from the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">TILTED ROCKS AT KINGFISHER CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27"></span></p>
+
+<p>The colouring of the rocks changed as we proceeded,
+and at the lower end of the short canyon we saw the flaming
+patch of colour that had suggested its name to Major
+Powell, forty-two years before. Intensified on that occasion
+by the reflected light of a gorgeous sunset, it must
+have been a most brilliant spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>Two beavers slid into the water when we were close
+beside them, then rose to the surface to stare curiously
+when we had passed. We left them undisturbed. Some
+geese decoyed us into an attempt to ambush them, but
+they kept always just out of reach of our guns. Wise
+fellows, those geese!</p>
+
+<p>A geological fault accompanied by the breaking down
+of the walls marks the division between Flaming Gorge
+and Horseshoe Canyon, which immediately follows.
+We nooned here, opposite a deserted cabin. A trail
+dropped by easy stages over the slope on the east side;
+and fresh tracks showed that sheep had recently been
+driven down to the water’s edge.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through Horseshoe,—another very short
+canyon,—we found deep, placid pools, and sheer, light
+red walls rising about four hundred feet on either side,
+then sloping back steeply to the tree-covered mountains.
+In the middle of this canyon Emery was startled out of a
+day-dream by a rock falling into the water close beside
+him, with never a sound of warning. Years spent in the
+canyons had accustomed Emery and me to such occurrences;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28"></span>but Jimmy, unused to great gorges and towering
+cliffs, was much impressed by this incident. After all,
+it is only the unusual that is terrible. Jimmy was ready
+enough to take his chances at dodging bricks hurled by a
+San Francisco earthquake, but never got quite used to
+rocks descending from a source altogether out of sight.
+Small wonder, after all! Later we were to experience
+more of this thing, and on a scale to startle a stoic!</p>
+
+<p>We halted at the end of Horseshoe, early in the afternoon
+of September 14, 1911, one week out from Green
+River City. Camp No. 6 was pitched on a gravelly
+shore beside Sheep Creek, a clear sparkling stream,
+coming in from the slopes of the Uintah range. Just
+above us, on the west, rose three jagged cliffs, about
+five hundred feet high, reminding one by their shape of the
+Three Brothers of Yosemite Valley. Here, again, we were
+treated to another wonderful example of geologic displacement,
+the rocks of Horseshoe Canyon lying in level
+strata; while those of Kingfisher, which followed, were
+standing on end. Sheep Creek, flowing from the west,
+finds an easy course through the fault, at the division
+of the canyons. The balance of this day was spent in
+carefully packing our material and rearranging it in our
+boats, for we expected hard work to follow.</p>
+
+<p>Tempted by the rippling song of the brook, and by
+tales of fish to be found therein, we spent two hours
+fishing from its banks on the morning of the 15th. But
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29"></span>the foliage of overhanging trees and shrubs was dense,
+making it difficult to cast our lines, or even to climb along
+its shores, and our small catch of two trout, which were
+fried with a strip of bacon to add flavour, only whetted our
+appetites for more.</p>
+
+<p>It was a little late in the season for many birds. Here
+in Kingfisher Canyon were a few of the fish-catching birds
+from which the canyon took its name. There were
+many of the tireless cliff-swallows scattered all through
+these canyons, wheeling and darting, ever on the wing.
+These, with the noisy crested jays, an occasional “camp-robber,”
+the little nuthatches, the cheerful canyon wren
+with his rollicking song, the happy water-ousel, “kill-deer,”
+and road-runners and the water birds,—ducks,
+geese, and mud-hens, with an occasional crane,—made up
+the bird life seen in the open country and in these upper
+canyons. Earlier in the season it must be a bird’s paradise,
+for berries and seeds would then be plentiful.</p>
+
+<p>We resumed our journey at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, a very short run
+bringing us to the end of Kingfisher Canyon. The three
+canyons passed through approximate hardly more than
+ten miles in length, different names being given for geological
+reasons, as they really form only one canyon.
+The walls at the end were broken down, and brilliantly
+tinted talus of many hues covered the slopes, the different
+colours intermingling near the bottom. The canyon-walled
+river turned southeast here, and continued in this general
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30"></span>direction for many miles, but with many twists
+and turns.</p>
+
+<p>We had previously been informed that Red Canyon,
+the next to follow, while not considered bad when compared
+to others, gave one the experience most necessary
+to combat the rapids farther down. It was not without
+danger, however, as a review of previous expeditions
+showed: some had lost their lives, still others, their
+boats; and one of Major Powell’s parties had upset a
+boat in a Red Canyon rapid. The stage of water was
+so different on these previous attempts that their experiences
+were of little value to us one way or the other. A
+reference to pictures taken by two of these parties showed
+us there was considerable more water when they went
+through—six, and even eight feet higher in places.
+Possibly this would be the best stage on which to make
+the voyage in heavy boats. The unfortunate ones had
+taken the spring rise, or flood water, with disastrous
+results to themselves or their boats.</p>
+
+<p>We soon found that our passage was to be hard on
+account of having too little water. In the quiet water
+above we had been seldom bothered with shoals; but
+now that we were in swifter water, there was scarcely
+any depth to it at all, except in the quiet pools between
+the rapids.</p>
+
+<p>For a description of our passage through this upper
+end of Red Canyon we refer to our journal: sketchy
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31"></span>notes jotted down, usually in the evening just before
+retiring, by the light of a camp-fire, or the flickering flame
+of a candle. Under the date of Friday, September the
+15th, we find the following:</p>
+
+<p>“End of Kingfisher: long, quiet pools and shoals
+where we grounded a few times; several small, splashy
+rapids; then a larger one near an old boat landing.
+Looked the rapid over from the shore. Jim remained
+at the lower end with a life-preserver on a rope, while we
+ran the rapid. Struck one or two rocks, lightly; but
+made the run in safety.”</p>
+
+<p>“At the third rapid we saw some geese—but they
+got away. At noon we ate a cold lunch and because of
+the low water removed the skags, carrying them in the
+cockpit. The scenery in upper Red Canyon is impressive:
+pines and fir come down on the sloping sides to the
+river’s edge; the rocks are reddish brown in colour, often
+broken in squares, and looking like great building blocks
+piled one upon another. The canyon is about fifteen
+hundred feet deep; the river is clear again, and averages
+about two hundred feet in width. We have seen a few
+deer tracks, but have not seen any deer. We also saw
+some jumping trout in a splashy little rapid. Doubtless
+they came from a little creek, close by, for we never heard
+of trout being found in the Green River.”</p>
+
+<p>“We made a motion picture, while dropping our boats
+down with lines, over the first rapid we considered bad.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32"></span>Emery remained in the boats, keeping clear of the rocks
+with a pole. Powell’s second party records an upset here.”
+We passed Kettle Creek about 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> In the fifth rapid
+below Kettle Creek I got on the wrong side of the river
+and was carried into a very rocky rapid—the worst so far
+encountered. I touched a rock or two at the start,
+but made the run in safety; while Emery ran the opposite
+side without trouble. We camped beside a small
+stream on the south, where there were signs of an old
+camp.”</p>
+
+<p>“<i>Saturday, September 16</i>. Clear and cold in the early
+morning. Started about 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Lined our boats past
+a difficult rapid. Too many rocks, not enough water.
+Two or three miles below this I had some difficulty in a
+rapid, as the pin of a rowlock lifted out of the socket
+when in the middle of rough water. Emery snapped a
+picture just as it happened. A little later E. C.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_2_2" href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> ran
+a rocky rapid, but had so much trouble that we concluded
+to line my boat. Noon. Just a cold lunch, but
+with hot coffee from the vacuum bottles. Then at it
+again.”</p>
+
+<p>“The scenery is wonderful; the canyon is deeper than
+above; the river is swift and has a decided drop. We
+proceed cautiously, and make slow progress. We camp
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33"></span>for the day on the north side close to a little, dry gully,
+on a level sage and bunch-grass covered bottom back
+from the river’s edge. An abruptly descending canyon
+banked with small cottonwood trees coming in from the
+opposite side contains a small stream. Put up our tent
+for the second time since leaving Green River, Wyoming.
+We are all weary, and glad to-morrow is Sunday—a day
+of rest.”</p>
+
+<p>“<i>Sunday, September 17.</i> E. C. and I follow a fresh
+deer track up a game trail and get—a rabbit. Climb out
+about 1300 feet above the river to the top of the
+narrow canyon. Here is a sloping plateau, dotted with
+bunch-grass and grease-wood, a fourth of a mile wide.
+Then rounded mountains rise beyond the plateau, some
+of the peaks reaching a height of 4000 feet above the river.
+The opposite side is much the same, but with a wider
+plateau. We had no idea before what a wonderful country
+this is. It is a picture to tempt an artist. High on
+the mountain tops is the dark blue-green of pines and
+firs, reds and yellows are mixed in the quaking aspen,—for
+the frost comes early enough to catch the sap in the
+leaves; little openings, or parks with no trees, are tinted
+a beautiful soft gray; ‘brownstone fronts’ are found in
+the canyon walls; and a very light green in the willow-leafed
+cottonwoods at the river’s edge, and in all side
+canyons where there is a running stream. The river
+glistens in the sunlight, as it winds around the base of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34"></span>wall on which we stand, and then disappears around a
+bend in the canyon. Turn where we will, we see no sign
+of an opening, nothing but the rounded tops of wooded
+mountains, red and green, far as the eye can reach, until
+they disappear in the hazy blue. Finally Emery’s
+keen eyes, aided by the binoculars, discover a log cabin
+at the foot of a mountain, on the plateau opposite us,
+about three miles away.”</p>
+
+<p>“We hurry back to camp and write some letters; then
+Jim and I cross the river and climb out over the rocky
+walls to the plateau above. In two hours we reach the
+cabin. It is new—not yet finished. A woman and four
+children are looking over a garden when we arrive. They
+are a little frightened at first, but soon recover. The
+woman gladly promises to take out our mail when they
+go to the nearest town, which happens to be Vernal,
+Utah, forty-five miles away. Three other families live
+near by, all recently moved in from Vernal. The woman
+tells us that Galloway hunts bear in these timbered mountains,
+and has killed some with a price on their heads—bear
+with a perverted taste for fresh beef.”&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_3_3" href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35"></span></p>
+
+<p>“Thanking the woman, we make our way back to the
+river. We see some dried-out elk horns along our trail;
+though it is doubtful if elk get this far south at present.
+A deer trail, leading down a ravine, makes our homeward
+journey much easier. It has turned quite cold this
+evening, after sunset. We finish our notes and prepare
+to roll into our beds a little earlier than usual.”</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">
+    CHAPTER IV
+    </h3>
+  <h4>SUSPICIOUS HOSTS
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> awoke bright and early the next morning, much
+refreshed by our day of rest and variety. With an early
+start we were soon pulling down the river, and noon found
+us several miles below the camp, having run eleven rapids
+with no particular difficulty. A reference in my notes
+reads: “Last one has a thousand rocks, and we could
+not miss them all. My rowing is improving, and we
+both got through fairly well.” In the afternoon they
+continued to come—an endless succession of small rapids,
+with here and there a larger one. The canyon was similar
+to that at our camp above, dark red walls with occasional
+pines on the ledges,—a most charming combination
+of colour. At 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we reached Ashley Falls, a rapid
+we had been expecting to see for some time. It was a
+place of singular beauty. A dozen immense rocks had
+fallen from the cliff on the left, almost completely blocking
+the channel—or so it seemed from one point of view.
+But there was a crooked channel, not more than twelve
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37"></span>wide in places, through which the water shot like a
+stream from a nozzle.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_036-fp" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_036-fp.jpg" alt="The 'Edith' is in the river in front of a boulder, about 10 times the height of the rowboat. Other large boulders are scattered through the river. The hills on the far side of the river are covered with trees.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“IMMENSE ROCKS HAD FALLEN FROM THE CLIFF.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We wanted a motion picture of our dash through the
+chute. But the location for the camera was hard to
+secure, for a sheer bank of rock or low wall prevented us
+from climbing out on the right side. We overcame this
+by landing on a little bank at the base of the wall and by
+dropping a boat down with a line to the head of the
+rapid where a break occurred in the wall. Jimmy was
+left with the camera, the boat was pulled back, and we
+prepared to run the rapid.</p>
+
+<p>We first had to pass between two square rocks rising
+eight feet above the water so close together that we could
+not use the oars; then, when past these, pull ten feet to
+the right in order to clear the large rock at the end of
+the main dam, or barrier, not more than twenty feet below.
+To pull down bow first and try to make the turn,
+would mean to smash broadside against this rock. It
+could only be done by dropping stern first, and pulling
+to the right under the protection of the first rocks; though
+it was doubtful if even this could be accomplished, the
+current was so swift. The <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> was ready first, the
+<i class="shipname">Edith</i> was to follow as closely as safety allowed.</p>
+
+<p>Almost before I knew it I was in the narrow channel,
+so close to the right rock that I had to ship that oar,
+and pull altogether on the left one. As soon as I was
+through I made a few quick strokes, but the current was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38"></span>too strong for me; and a corner of the stern struck
+a bang when I was almost clear. She paused as a wave
+rolled over the decks, then rose quickly; a side current
+caught the boat, whirling it around, and the bow struck.
+I was still pulling with all my might, but everything
+happened so quickly,—with the boat whirling first this
+way, then that,—that my efforts were almost useless.
+But after that second strike I did get in a few strokes,
+and pulled into the quiet pool below the line of boulders.</p>
+
+<p>Emery held his boat in better position than I had done,
+and it looked for a while as if he would make it. But
+the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> struck on the stern, much as mine had done.
+Then he pulled clear and joined me in the shelter of the
+large rock, as cool and smiling as if he had been rowing
+on a mill-pond. We were delighted to find that our boats
+had suffered no damage from the blows they had received.
+Striking on the ends as they did, the shock was distributed
+throughout the whole boat.</p>
+
+<p>This completed our run for that day, and we went
+into camp just below the “Falls.” Emery painted the
+name <i class="shipname">Edith</i> on the bow of his boat, at this camp.
+The name was given in honour of his four-year-old daughter,
+waiting for us at the Grand Canyon. I remarked
+that as no one loved me, I would name my boat the
+<i class="shipname">Defiance</i>. But I hesitated about putting this name
+on the bow. I would look rather foolish, I thought, if
+the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> should be wrecked in the first bad rapid.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39"></span>So the christening of my boat was left until such time as
+should have earned the title, although she was constantly
+referred to as the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We remained until noon of the following day at Ashley
+Falls, exploring, repairing, and photographing this picturesque
+spot. The canyon walls here dropped down to
+beautiful, rolling foot-hills eight or nine hundred feet
+high tree covered as before but more open. The diversity
+of rocks and hills was alluring. There was work to
+be done and no pleasanter spot could be found in which
+to do it. Among other things that had to be looked after
+were some adjustments to the motion-picture camera—usually
+referred to by us as the M. P. C.—this delicate
+work always falling to Emery, for he alone could
+do it.</p>
+
+<p>There was much to interest us here. Major Powell
+reported finding the name “Ashley” painted under an
+overhanging rock on the left side of the river. Underneath
+was a date, rather indistinct, but found to have
+been 1825, by Dellenbaugh, after carefully tracing the
+career of Colonel Ashley who was responsible for the
+record. Accompanied by a number of trappers, he made
+the passage through this canyon at that early day. We
+found a trace of the record. There were three letters—A-s-h—the
+first two quite distinct, and underneath were
+black spots. It must have been pretty good paint
+to leave a trace after eighty-six years!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40"></span></p>
+
+<p>Resuming our journey we passed into deep canyon
+again,—the deepest we had found up to this time,—with
+steeply sloping, verdure-covered walls about 2700 feet high.
+The rapids still continued. At one rapid the remark was
+made that “Two feet of water would cover two hundred
+rocks so that our boats would pass over them.” But we
+did not have the two feet needed.</p>
+
+<p>We had previously been informed that some of these
+mountains were the hiding-places of men who were
+“wanted” in the three states which bordered near here.
+Some escaping prisoners had also been traced to the mountains
+in this direction; then all tracks had ceased. The
+few peaceable ranchers who lived in these mountains
+were much alarmed over these reports. We found one
+such rancher on the plateau above the canyon, whom we
+will call Johnson for convenience,—living in one of the
+upper canyons. He sold us some provisions. In return
+he asked us to help him swim some of his horses across
+the river. He said the high water had taken out his own
+boat. The horses were rounded up in a mountain-hidden
+valley and driven into the water ahead of the boat.
+After securing the horses, Johnson’s welcome seemed to
+turn to suspicion and he questioned our reasons for being
+there, wanting to know what we could find in that wild
+country to interest us. Johnson’s sons, of whom there
+were several, seemed to put in most of their time at hunting
+and trapping, never leaving the house without a gun.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41"></span>The cabin home looked like an arsenal, revolvers and guns
+hanging on all the walls—even his daughters being familiar
+with their use. Although we had been very well
+treated after all, Mrs. Johnson especially having been
+very kind to us, we felt just a little relieved when the
+Johnson ranch was left behind. We use, in fact, a fictitious
+name, not caring to visit on them the suspicions
+we ourselves felt in return.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp93" id="i_040-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_040-fp.jpg" alt="In the middle of the wide river are huge boulders across its entire width. One of the rowboats is grounded at the shoreline before the boulders. Two men are standing on a flat rock in the center of the river. Gentle hills on both sides of the river are covered with trees and shrubs.">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="allsmcap">ASHLEY FALLS, LOOKING DOWN-STREAM.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Another morning passed in repairing the M. P. camera,
+and another afternoon’s work was necessary to get us
+out of the walls and the rapids of Red Canyon. But on
+the evening of the 20th, we did get out, and pulled into
+an open country known as Brown’s Park, one week after
+entering Flaming Gorge. It had not been very fast
+travelling; but we were through, and with no mishap
+more serious than a split board on the side of my boat.
+Under favourable conditions, and in experienced hands,
+this distance might have been covered in three days.
+But meanwhile, we were gaining a lot of experience.</p>
+
+<p>About the lower end of Red Canyon the river turned
+directly east, paralleling the northern boundary of Utah,
+and continued to flow in this general direction until it
+crossed into Colorado.</p>
+
+<p>On emerging from Red Canyon we spied a ranch
+house or log cabin close to the river. The doors were
+open and there were many tracks in the sand, so we
+thought some one must be about. On approaching the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42"></span>house, however, we found the place was deserted, but
+with furniture, books, and pictures piled on the floor in
+the utmost confusion, as if the occupants had left in a
+great hurry. This surmise afterward proved to be correct;
+for we learned that the rancher had been murdered
+for his money, his body having been found in a boat
+farther down the river. Suspicion pointed to an old
+employee who had been seen lurking near the place.
+He was traced to the railroad, over a hundred miles to the
+north; but made his escape and was never caught.</p>
+
+<p>We found Brown’s Park, once known as Brown’s Hole,
+to be a beautiful valley several miles in width, and
+thirty-five or forty miles in length. The upper end of
+the valley was rugged in places, with rocky hills two or
+three hundred feet high. To the south, a few miles away,
+were the mountains, a continuation of those we had come
+through. We saw many cattle scattered over some of
+these rocky hills, grazing on the bunch-grass. At one
+place our course led us through a little canyon about
+two miles long, and scarcely more than two hundred
+feet deep. This was Swallow Canyon—a name suggested
+by the many birds of that species which had covered the
+canyon’s walls with their little clay nests. The openings
+of some of these nests were so small that it scarcely
+seemed possible for a bird to enter.</p>
+
+<p>The water was deep and quiet in this short canyon,
+and a hard wind blowing up the stream made it difficult
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43"></span>for us to gain any headway. In this case, too, the forms
+of the boat were against us. With the keel removed and
+with their high sides catching the wind, they were carried
+back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put
+up with it for a while, for those very features would
+prove most valuable in the rough-water canyons which
+were to follow!</p>
+
+<p>Emerging from the canyon at last, we saw a ferry
+loaded with sheep crossing the stream. On the left
+shore was a large corral, also filled with sheep which a
+half dozen men were driving back and forth into different
+compartments. Later these men told us there
+were 2400 sheep in the flock. We took their word for it,
+making no attempt to count them. The foreman of
+the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and honey,—these
+two articles being a welcome addition to our list
+of supplies, which were beginning to show the effects
+of our voracious appetites.</p>
+
+<p>We found many other log cabins and ranches as we
+proceeded. Some of them were deserted; at others men
+were busily engaged in cutting hay or the wild grass that
+grew in the bottoms. The fragrance of new-mown hay
+was in the air. Young boys and women were among
+these busy workers, some of the women being seated on
+large harvesters, handling the horses with as much dexterity
+as any of the men.</p>
+
+<p>The entire trip through this pretty valley was full
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44"></span>of interest. We were hailed from the shore by some of
+the hay ranchers, it being a novel sight to them to see a
+river expedition. At one or two of these places we
+asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and
+were given evasive answers. Finally we were told that
+cattle rustlers from the mountains made it so hard for
+the ranchers in the valleys that there was nothing for
+them to do but get out. They told us, also, that we were
+fortunate to get away from Johnson’s ranch with our
+valuables! Our former host, we were told, had committed
+many depredations and had served one term for
+cattle stealing. Officers, disguised as prospectors, had
+taken employment with him and helped him kill and
+skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands,
+having been partially burned and buried. On this
+evidence he was afterwards convicted.</p>
+
+<p>Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions
+of us, the sinister arsenal of guns and pistols, all was
+explained! Quite likely some of these weapons had
+been trained against us by the trappers on the chance
+that we were either officers of the law, or competitors
+in the horse-stealing industry. For that matter we were
+actually guilty of the latter count, for come to think of it,
+we ourselves had helped them steal eight horses and a
+colt!</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_044-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_044-fp.jpg" alt="Both rowboats are beached on the left shore. One man holds onto a boat with another man in the cockpit. The water is calm and relfects the low canyon walls beyond the boats.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE ROCKS WERE DARK RED: OCCASIONAL PINES GREW ON THE LEDGES, MAKING
+    A CHARMING COMBINATION OF COLOUR.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of
+interest. It was all so different from anything seen above.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45"></span>There were great bottoms that gave evidence of having
+recently been overflooded, though now covered with
+cottonwood trees, gorgeous in their autumn foliage. We
+had often wondered where all the driftwood that floated
+down the Colorado came from; but after seeing those
+unnumbered acres of cottonwoods we ceased to wonder.</p>
+
+<p>There were many beaver slides on the banks; and
+in places, numberless trees had been felled by these industrious
+animals. On one or two occasions we narrowly
+escaped splitting the sides of our boats on snags of trees
+which the beavers had buried in the bottom of the stream.
+We saw no beaver dams on the river; they were not
+necessary, for deep, quiet pools existed everywhere in
+Brown’s Park. We saw two beavers in this section.
+One of these rose, porpoise-like, to the top of the water,
+stared at us a moment, then brought his tail down with a
+resounding smack on the top of the water, and disappeared,
+to enter his home by the subterranean route, no doubt.</p>
+
+<p>The river was gradually losing its clear colour, for the
+sand-bars were beginning to “work out,” or break, making
+the water quite roily. In some sections of Brown’s
+Park we grounded on these sand-bars, making it necessary
+for us to get out into the water, pushing and pulling
+on the boats until deeper water was reached. Sometimes
+the deep water came when least expected, the sand-bars
+having a disconcerting way of dropping off abruptly on
+the downstream side. Jimmy stepped off the edge
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46"></span>of one of these hidden ledges while working with a boat
+and was for some time in no condition to appreciate our
+ill-concealed mirth.</p>
+
+<p>Often we would be passing along on perfectly smooth
+water, when suddenly a turmoil would rise all about us,
+as though a geyser had broken out below the surface.
+If we happened to be directly over it, the boat would be
+rocked back and forth for a while; then all would be
+peaceful again. This was most often caused by the
+ledges of sand, anywhere from three to ten feet high,
+breaking down or falling forward as their bases were
+undermined. In a single night a bar of this kind will
+work upstream for a distance of several feet; then the
+sand will be carried down with the current to lodge again
+in some quiet pool, and again be carried on as before.
+This action gives rise to long lines of regular waves or
+swells extending for some distance down the stream.
+These are usually referred to as sand-waves. These
+waves increase in size in high water; and the monotonous
+thump, thump of the boat’s bottom upon them is anything
+but pleasant, especially if one is trying to make
+fast time.</p>
+
+<p>So, with something new at every turn, we pulled lazily
+through Brown’s Park, shooting at ducks and geese when
+we came near them, snapping our cameras when a picture
+presented itself, and observing the animal life along
+the stream.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47"></span></p>
+
+<p>We stopped at one hay-ranch close to the Utah-Colorado
+line and chatted awhile with the workers. A pleasant-faced
+woman named Mrs. Chew asked us to deliver a
+message at a ranch a mile or two below. Here also
+was the post-office of Lodore, Colorado, located a short
+distance above the canyon of the same name. Mrs.
+Chew informed us that they had another ranch at the
+lower end of Lodore Canyon and asked us to look them
+up when we got through, remarking:</p>
+
+<p>“You may have trouble, you know. Two of my sons
+once tried it. They lost their boat, had to climb out,
+and nearly starved before they reached home.”</p>
+
+<p>The post-office at the ranch, found as described,
+without another home in sight, was a welcome sight to
+us for several reasons. One reason was that it afforded
+shelter from a heavy downpour of rain that greeted us as
+we neared it, and a better reason still was, that it gave
+us a chance to write and mail some letters to those who
+would be most anxious to hear from us.</p>
+
+<p>Among the messages we mailed was a picture post-card
+of Coney Island at night. In some way this card
+had slipped between the leaves of a book that I had
+brought from the East. I sent it out, addressed to a
+friend who would understand the joke; writing underneath
+the picture, “We have an abundance of such scenery
+here.” The young woman who had charge of the office
+looked at the card in amazement. It was evidently something
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48"></span>new to her. She told us she had never been to the
+railroad, and that her brother took the mail out on horseback
+to Steamboat, Colorado, 140 miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>The rain having ceased, we returned to our boats,
+pausing to admire a rainbow that arched above the
+canyon in the mountains, toward which we were headed.
+We remarked, jokingly, to Jimmy that this was a good
+sign. He replied without smiling that he “hoped so.”
+Jimmy’s songs had long since ceased, and we suspected
+him of homesickness. With the exception of a short
+visit to some friends on a large ranch, Jimmy had never
+been away from his home in San Francisco. This present
+experience was quite a contrast, to be sure! We did
+what we could to keep him cheered up, but with little
+success. Jimmy had intimated that he would prefer
+to leave at the first opportunity to reach a railroad, and
+we willingly agreed to help him in every possible way.
+Emery and I also agreed between ourselves that we would
+not take any unnecessary risks with him; but would
+leave him out of the boats at all rapids, if there was any
+passage around them.</p>
+
+<p>The river had taken a sharp turn to the south soon
+after passing the post-office, heading directly towards
+the mountains. Camp was pitched just above the
+mouth of Lodore. This twenty-mile canyon bears a
+very unsavory reputation, having a descent of 425 feet
+in that short distance, the greater part of the fall occurring
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49"></span>in a space of twelve miles. This would mean wild water
+somewhere!</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_048-fp" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_048-fp.jpg" alt="A cottonwood tree dominates the center of the photo. A tent and small log shed are to the left of the tree. To the right is another tent and a larger log building. The river and low hills are in the background. The sky is filled with cumulus clouds.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“WE STOPPED AT ONE HAY RANCH CLOSE TO THE UTAH-COLORADO LINE.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We were camped on a spot recently occupied by some
+engineers of the United States Conservation Department,
+who had been trying to determine if it was feasible to
+dam the river at this place. The plan was to flood the
+hole of Brown’s Park and divert the water through
+the mountains by a tunnel to land suitable for cultivation
+and in addition, allow the muddy water to settle and
+so prevent the vast amount of silt from being washed on
+down, eventually to the mouth of the Colorado. The
+location seemed admirably suited for this stupendous
+project. But holes drilled beside the river failed to find
+bottom, as nothing but quicksand existed even at a
+depth of nearly three hundred feet; and without a strong
+foundation, such a dam would be utterly useless.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">
+    CHAPTER V
+    </h3>
+   <h4>THE BATTLE WITH LODORE
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Camp</span> routine was hurriedly disposed of the next
+morning, Saturday, September the <abbr title="twenty-third">23d</abbr>. Everything
+was made snug beneath the hatches, except the two guns,
+which were too long to go under the decks, and had to
+be carried in the open cockpits. “Camp No. 13, at the
+head of Lodore,” as it is entered in my journal, was soon
+hidden by a bend in the river. The open, sun-lit country,
+with its pleasant ranches and its grazing cattle, its
+rolling, gray, sage-covered hills and its wild grass and cottonwood-covered
+bottoms, was left behind, and we were
+back in the realm of the rock-walled canyon, and beetle-browed,
+frowning cliffs with pines and cedars clutching
+at the scanty ledges.</p>
+
+<p>We paused long enough to make a picture or two,
+with the hope that the photographic record would give
+to others some idea of the geological and scenic wonder—said
+to be the greatest known example of its kind—which
+lay before us. Here is an obstructing mountain
+raised directly in the river’s path. Yet with no deviation
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51"></span>whatever the stream has cut through the very centre of
+the peak! The walls are almost sheer, especially at the
+bottom, and are quite close together at the top. A mile
+inside the mountain on the left or east side of the gorge
+is 2700 feet high. Geologists say that the river was here
+first and that the mountain was slowly raised in its pathway—so
+slowly that the river could saw away and maintain
+its old channel. The quicksand found below the
+present level would seem to indicate that the walls were
+once even higher than at present, and that a subsidence
+had taken place after the cutting.</p>
+
+<p>The river at the entrance of this rock-walled canyon
+was nothing alarming, four small rapids being passed
+without event. Then a fifth was reached that looked
+worse. The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was lined down. This was hard work,
+and dangerous too, owing to the strength of the current
+and the many rocks; so I concluded that my own boat,
+the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>, must run the rapid. Jimmy went below,
+with a life-preserver on a rope. Emery stood beside the
+rapid with a camera and made a picture as I shot past
+him. Fortunately I got through without mishap. I
+refused to upset even to please my brother.</p>
+
+<p>We were beginning to think that Lodore was not so
+bad after all. Rapid followed rapid in quick succession,
+and all were run without trouble; then we came to a
+large one. It was Upper Disaster Falls; so named by
+Major Powell, for it was here that one of his boats was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52"></span>wrecked on his first voyage of exploration. This boat
+failed to make the landing above the rapid and was
+carried over. She struck a rock broadside, turned around
+and struck again, breaking the boat completely in two.
+This boat was built of ¾-inch oak reënforced with bulkheads.
+When this fact is taken into consideration, some
+idea may be had of the great power of these rapids. The
+three men who occupied the boat saved themselves by
+reaching an island a short distance below.</p>
+
+<p>This all happened on a stage of water much higher than
+the present one, so we did not let the occurrence influence
+us one way or the other, except to make us careful to land
+above the rapid. We found a very narrow channel between
+two submerged boulders, the water plunging and
+foaming for a short distance below, over many hidden
+rocks. Still, there was only one large rock near the lower
+end that we greatly feared, and by careful work that
+might be avoided.</p>
+
+<p>The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> went first and grazed the boulder slightly,
+but no harm was done as E. C. held his boat well
+in hand. I followed, and struck rocks at the same
+instant on both sides of the narrow channel with my oars.
+It will be remembered that we ran all these dangerous
+rapids facing downstream. The effect of this was to
+shoot the ends of both oars up past my face. The operator
+said that I made a grimace just as he took a picture
+of the scrimmage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53"></span></p>
+
+<p>We landed on the island below and talked of camping
+for the night, as it was getting late; but the island
+so rocky and inhospitable that we concluded to try
+the lower part of the rapid. This had no descent like
+the upper end; but it was very shallow, and we soon
+found ourselves on rocks, unable to proceed any farther.
+It took an hour of hard labour to work our heavy boats
+safely to the shore.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp99" id="i_052-fp" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_052-fp.jpg" alt="A placid river spans the lower third of the photo. Land slopes gently upward to the right; a vertical canyon wall is on the left.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">REMARKABLE ENTRANCE TO LODORE CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We had been hoping for a rest the next day—Sunday—but
+the island was such a disagreeable place to
+camp that it seemed necessary to cross to the mainland
+at least. A coil of strong, pliable wire had been included
+in our material. Here was a chance to use it to advantage.
+The stream on the left side of the island could be
+waded, although it was very swift; and we managed to
+get the wire across and well fastened at both ends. Elevating
+the wire above the water with cross-sticks, our tent
+and camp material were run across on a pulley, and camp
+was pitched a hundred yards below, on the left shore of
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>There were fitful showers in the afternoon, and we
+rested from our labour, obtaining a great deal of comfort
+from our tent, which was put up here for the third time
+since leaving Green River City. Always, when the
+weather was clear, we slept in the open.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, the 25th, found us at the same camp. Having
+concluded that Disaster Falls was an ideal place for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54"></span>a moving picture, we sent the balance of the material
+across on the pulley and wire, making a picture of the
+operation; stopping often because it continued to shower.
+Between showers we resumed our work and picture making.</p>
+
+<p>The picture was to have been concluded with the operation
+of lining the boat across. E. C. stood on the shore
+about sixty feet away, working with the camera; Jimmy
+was on the island, paying out the rope; while I waded in
+the water, holding the bow of the boat as I worked her
+between the rocks. Having reached the end of the rope,
+I coiled it up, advising Jimmy to go up to a safe crossing
+and join my brother while I proceeded with the boat.
+All was going well, and I was nearing the shore, when
+I found myself suddenly carried off my feet into water
+beyond my depth, and drifting for the lower end of the
+rapid. Meanwhile I was holding to the bow of the boat,
+and calling lustily to my brother to save me. At first
+he did not notice that anything was wrong, as he was
+looking intently through the finder. Then he suddenly
+awoke to the fact that something was amiss, and came
+running down the boulder-strewn shore, but he could
+not help me, as we had neglected to leave a rope with
+him. Things were beginning to look pretty serious,
+when the boat stopped against a rock and I found myself
+once more with solid footing under me. It was too good
+a picture to miss; and I found the operator at the machine,
+turning the crank as I climbed out.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55"></span></p>
+
+<p>We developed some films and plates that evening,
+securing some satisfactory results from these tests. It
+continued to rain all that night, with intermittent showers
+next morning. The rain made little difference to us,
+for we were in the water much of the following day as
+the boats were taken along the edge of another unrunnable
+rapid, a good companion rapid for the one just passed.</p>
+
+<p>This was Lower Disaster Falls, the first of many
+similar rapids we were to see, but this was one of the
+worst of its kind. The swift-rushing river found its
+channel blocked by the canyon wall on the right side,
+the cliff running at right angles to the course of the
+stream. The river, attacking the limestones, had cut
+a channel under the wall, then turned and ran with the
+wall, emerging about two hundred feet below. Standing
+on a rock and holding one end of a twenty-five foot
+string we threw a stone attached to the other end across
+to the opposite wall. The overhanging wall was within
+two feet of the rushing river; a higher stage of water
+would hide the cut completely from view. Think what
+would happen if a boat were carried against or under
+that wall! We thought of it many times as we carefully
+worked our boats along the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Between the delays of rain, with stops for picture making,
+portaging our material, and “lining” our boats, we
+spent almost three days in getting past the rapids called
+Upper and Lower Disaster Falls, with their combined fall
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56"></span>of 50 feet in little more than half a mile. On the evening
+of September the 26th we camped almost within
+sight of this same place, at the base of a 3000-foot sugar-loaf
+mountain on the right, tree-covered from top to
+bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Things were going too easily for us, it seemed; but
+we were in for a few reverses. It stormed much of the
+night and still drizzled when we embarked on the following
+morning. The narrow canyon was gloomy and darkened
+with shreds of clouds drifting far below the rim.
+The first rapid was narrow, and contained some large
+boulders. The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was caught on one of these and
+turned on her side, so that the water flowed in, filling the
+cockpit. The boat was taken off without difficulty,
+and bailed out. We found that the bulkheads failed
+to keep the water out of the hatches. Some material
+from the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was transferred to the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>. A bed,
+in a protecting sack of rubber and canvas, was shoved
+under the seat and we proceeded.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_056a-fp" style="max-width: 73.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_056a-fp.jpg" alt="Two men, up to their knees in the river, portage a boat through a rocky section; the river roils next to the canyon wall.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“THE RIVER CUT A CHANNEL UNDER THE WALLS” AT
+    LOWER DISASTER FALLS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp68" id="i_056b-fp" style="max-width: 72.9375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_056b-fp.jpg" alt="A boat is beached on a sandy shoreline. A man in the cockpit reaches into the interior of the boat. Piles of gear are on the shore.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“EVERYTHING WAS WET.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Less than an hour later I repeated my brother’s performance,
+but I was not so fortunate as he. The <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>
+was carried against one rock as I tried to pull clear of
+another, and in an instant she was on her side, held
+by the rush of water. I caught the gunwale, and, climbing
+on to the rock that caused the disaster, I managed
+to catch the rope and held the boat. In the
+meantime Emery was in a whirlpool below, trying to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57"></span>land on the right side; but was having a difficult
+time of it. Jimmy stood on the shore unable to
+help. The bed was washed out of the boat and went
+bobbing over the waves, then before I knew what had
+happened, the rope was jerked from my hands and I was
+left stranded on my rock. Seeing this, Jimmy ran with
+all his might for a pool at the end of the rapid, bravely
+rescuing the boat and the bed as well, just as the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>
+was landed. A rope was soon thrown to me, after the
+inevitable picture was made. Then I jumped and was
+pulled to shore.</p>
+
+<p>On making an inventory we found that our guns were
+lost from the boat. Being too long to go under the
+hatches, they had been left in the cockpit. The <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>
+had an ugly rap on the bottom, where she
+struck a rock, the wood being smashed or jammed, but not
+broken out. Nearly all material in the two boats was wet,
+so we took everything out and piled it on a piece of canvas,
+spread out on the sand. We worked rapidly, for
+another storm had been threatening all the morning.</p>
+
+<p>We were engaged in putting up our little tent when
+a violent wind which swept up the canyon, followed
+by a downpour of rain interrupted our work; and if
+anything missed a soaking before, it certainly received
+it then. The sand was beaten into our cameras and
+everything was scattered helter-skelter over the shore.
+We were fortunate in only one respect. The wind was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58"></span>away from the river instead of toward it. We finally
+got the tent up, then threw everything into it in an indiscriminate
+pile, and waited for the storm to pass. Emery
+proposed that we do a song and dance just to show how
+good we felt; but any appearance of merriment was
+rather forced.</p>
+
+<p>Had the builders of the boats been there, we fear they
+would have had an uncomfortable half-hour; for nearly
+all this loss could have been avoided had our instructions
+regarding the hatch covers been followed. And
+for the sake of their saving a few dollars we had to
+suffer!</p>
+
+<p>The rain soon passed and we went to work, first
+starting a fire and getting a hurried lunch, for we had
+not eaten our noon meal, and it was then 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> We
+put up our dark-room tent, then went to work to find
+what was saved, and what was lost. We were surprised
+to find that all our small films and plates had escaped a
+soaking. Protected in tin and cardboard boxes, wrapped
+with adhesive tape, and covered with a coating of paraffine
+melted and poured over them, they had turned the
+water in nearly every instance. The motion-picture
+film was not so fortunate. The paraffine had worn off the
+tin boxes in spots, the water soaked through the tape
+in some instances, and entered to the film. One
+roll, tightly wrapped, became wet on the edges; the
+gelatine swelled and stuck to the other film, thus sealing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59"></span>the inner portion or picture part of the film, so that
+roll was saved.</p>
+
+<p>The motion-picture camera was filled with water,
+mud and sand; and the other cameras fared likewise.
+We cleaned them out as best we could, drying them over
+small alcohol lamp which we had included in our duffle.
+Our job seemed endless. Jimmy had retired early, for
+he could help us but little in this work. It rained again
+in torrents, and the wind howled about the tent. After
+midnight, as we still toiled, a land-slide, loosened by the
+soaking rains, thundered down the mountain side about
+a fourth of a mile below our camp. We hoped Jimmy
+would not hear it. We retired soon after this. Smaller
+slides followed at intervals, descending over the 3000-foot
+precipices. Thunder reverberated through the canyon,
+and altogether it was a night long to be remembered.
+These slides made one feel a little uncomfortable. “It
+would be most inconvenient,” as we have heard some one
+say, “to wake in the morning and find ourselves wrapped
+up in a few tons of earth and rock.”</p>
+
+<p>Emery woke me the next morning to report that
+the river had risen about six feet; and that my boat—rolled
+out on the sand but left untied—was just on the
+Point of going out with the water. It had proven fortunate
+for us all Emery was a light sleeper! There was
+no travelling this day, as the boat had to be repaired.
+Emery, being the ship’s carpenter, set to work at once,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60"></span>while Jimmy and I stretched our ropes back and forth,
+and hung up the wet clothes. Then we built a number of
+fires underneath and soon had our belongings in a steam.
+Things were beginning to look cheerful again. The rain
+stopped, too, for a time at least.</p>
+
+<p>A little later Jimmy ran into camp with a fish which
+he had caught with his hands. It was of the kind commonly
+called the bony-tail or humpback or buffalo-fish,
+a peculiar species found in many of the rivers of the
+Southwest. It is distinguished by a small flat head
+with a hump directly behind it; the end of the body being
+round, very slender, and equipped with large tail-fins.
+This specimen was about sixteen inches long, the usual
+length for a full-grown fish of this species.</p>
+
+<p>Now for a fish story! On going down to the river
+we found a great many fish swimming in a small whirlpool,
+evidently trying to escape from the thick, slimy mud
+which was carried in the water. In a half-hour we
+secured fourteen fish, killing most of them with our oars.
+There were suckers and one catfish in the lot. You can
+judge for yourself how thick the water was, that such
+mudfishes as these should have been choked to helplessness.
+Our captured fish were given a bath in a bucket
+of rain-water, and we had a fish dinner.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp73" id="i_060a-fp" style="max-width: 76.6875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_060a-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands in a boat next to a rocky shoreline. He holds a fish by its mouth. The fish extends from above the man's waist to his feet.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A COLORADO RIVER SALMON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp74" id="i_060b-fp" style="max-width: 78.1875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_060b-fp.jpg" alt="A placid river cuts across the lower third of the photo; tree branches frame the upper half of the photo. In the distance, two canyon walls form a 'V' where the river cuts through.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LODORE CANYON AS SEEN FROM BROWN’S PARK.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we made a test of the water from the
+river, and found that it contained 20 per cent of an
+alkaline silt. When we had to use this water, we bruised
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61"></span>the leaf of a prickly pear cactus, and placed it in a bucket
+of water. This method, repeated two or three times,
+usually clears the muddiest water. We also dug holes
+in the sand at the side of the river. The water, filtering
+through the sand, was often clear enough to develop the
+tests we made with our films.</p>
+
+<p>Jimmy continued to feel downhearted; and this
+afternoon he told us his story. Our surmise about his
+being homesick was correct, but it was a little more than
+that. He had an invalid mother, it seemed, and, aided
+by an older brother, he had always looked after the needs
+of the family. When the proposition of making the
+river trip came up, serious objections were raised by the
+family; but when the transportation arrived he had determined
+to go, in spite of their objections. Now he feared
+that his mother would not live, or that we would be
+wrecked, and he would not know where to turn, or what
+to do. No wonder he felt blue!</p>
+
+<p>All we could do was to promise to help him leave the
+river at the very first opportunity. This would quite
+likely be at Jensen, Utah, still fifty miles farther downstream.</p>
+
+<p>It continued to rain by spells that night and the next
+morning. About 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we resumed our work on the
+river. A short distance below our camp we saw the
+land-slide which we heard the night before—tons of earth
+and shattered rock wrapped about the split and stripped
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62"></span>trunks of a half-dozen pines. The slide was started
+by the dislodged section of a sheer wall close to the top
+of the 2700-foot cliff. We also saw a boat of crude construction,
+pulled above the high-water mark; evidently
+abandoned a great while before. Any person who had to
+climb the walls at that place had a hard job to tackle, although
+we could pick out breaks where it looked feasible;
+there were a few places behind us where it would be next to
+impossible. We had only gone over a few rapids when we
+found a long pool, with driftwood eddying upstream, and
+knew that our run for the day was over—the Triplet
+Rapids were ahead of us. We found this rapid to be
+about a fourth of a mile long, divided into three sections
+as its name indicated, and filled with great boulders at
+the base of a sheer cliff on the right—another unrunnable
+rapid.</p>
+
+<p>Taking the camp material from the boats, we carried
+it down and pitched our tent first of all, then, while Emery
+prepared supper, Jimmy and I carried the remaining
+duffle down to camp. One of the boats was lined down
+also. Then after supper we enjoyed the first rest we had
+taken for some time.</p>
+
+<p>Camp Ideal we called it, and it well deserved the
+name. At the bottom of a tree-covered precipice reaching
+a height of 2700 feet, was a strip of firm, level sand,
+tapering off with a slope down to the water, making a
+perfect landing and dooryard. A great mass of driftwood,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63"></span>piled up at the end of the rapid, furnished us with all
+fuel we needed with small effort on our part. Our
+tent was backed against a large rock, while other flat
+rocks near at hand made convenient shelves on which to
+lay our camp dishes and kettles. It started to drizzle
+again that night, but what cared we? With a roaring
+fire in front of the tent we all cleaned up for a change,
+sewed patches on our tattered garments, and, sitting on
+our beds, wrote the day’s happenings in our journals.
+Then we crawled into our comfortable beds, and I was
+soon dreaming of my boyhood days when I “played
+hookey” from school and went fishing in a creek that
+emptied into the Allegheny River, or climbed its rocky
+banks; to be awakened by Jimmy crying out in his
+sleep,</p>
+
+<p>“There she goes over the rapids.”</p>
+
+<p>Jimmy was soon informed that he and the boats were
+perfectly safe, and I was brought back to a realization
+of the fact that I was not going to get a “whaling” for
+going swimming in dog-days; but instead was holed up
+in Lodore Canyon, in the extreme northwestern corner
+of Colorado.</p>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">
+    CHAPTER VI
+</h3>
+  <h4>
+    HELL’S HALF MILE
+ </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> began our work the next morning where we left
+off the night before by bringing the remaining boat
+down along the edge of the “Triplets.” Then, while
+Emery cooked the breakfast, Jimmy and I “broke camp.”
+The beds came first. The air had been released from the
+mattresses before we got up,—one way of saving time.
+    A change of dry clothing was placed with each bed, and
+they were rolled as tightly as the two of us could do it,
+after which they were strapped, placed in a rubber sack,
+with a canvas sack over that, both these sacks being
+laced at the top. The tent—one of those so-called
+balloon silk compositions—made a very small roll;
+the dark-room tent, with its three plies of cloth, made
+the largest bundle of the lot. Everything had been
+taken from the boats, and made quite a pile of dunnage,
+when it was all collected in a pile ready for loading.
+After the dishes were washed they were packed in a box,
+the smoke-covered pots and pans being placed in a sack.
+Everything was sorted and piled before the loading
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65"></span>
+commenced. An equal division of nearly everything
+was made, so that the loss of one boat and its cargo
+would only partially cripple the expedition. The photographic
+plates and films, in protecting canvas sacks,
+were first disposed of, being stored in the tin-lined hatches
+in the bow of the boats. Two of the smaller rolls containing
+bedding, or clothing; a sack of flour, and half of
+the cameras completed the loads for the forward compartments.
+Five or six tin and wooden boxes, filled with
+provisions, went into the large compartments under the
+stern. A box containing tools and hardware for the
+inevitable repairs, and the weightier provisions—such
+as canned milk and canned meats—went in first.
+This served as ballast for the boats. Then the other
+provisions followed, the remaining rolls of bedding and
+tents being squeezed in on top. This compartment,
+with careful packing, would hold as much as two ordinary-sized
+trunks, but squeezing it all in through the small
+hatchway, or opening on top, was not an easy job. One
+thing we guarded very carefully from this time on was a
+waterproofed sack containing sugar. The muddy water
+had entered the top of this sack in our upset, and a
+liquefied sugar, or brown-coloured syrup, was used in our
+coffee and on our breakfast foods after that. It gradually
+dried out, and our emptied cups would contain a
+sediment of mud in the bottom.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp58" id="i_064-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_064-fp.jpg" alt="A man sits on a large rock that extends from the shore into the churning river water. The upper canyon walls are obscured by clouds.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“THE CANYON WAS GLOOMY, AND DARKENED WITH SHREDS OF CLOUDS.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Such was our morning routine, although it was not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66"></span>often that everything was taken from the boats, and it
+only happened in this case because we made a portage
+the night before.</p>
+
+<p>Our work was all undone an hour later, when we came
+to the sharp descent known as Hell’s Half Mile. A
+section of a cliff had fallen from above, and was shattered
+into a hundred fragments, large and small; gigantic
+rocks were scattered on both shores and through the
+river bed, not an orderly array of rocks such as that
+found at Ashley Falls, but a riotous mass, looking as
+though they had been hurled from the sky above. The
+stripped trunk of an eight-foot tree, with roots extending
+over the river, had been deposited by a recent flood
+on top of the principal barrier. All this was found about
+fifty yards below the beginning of the most violent descent
+in Lodore Canyon. It would have been difficult
+enough without this last complication; the barrier
+seemed next to insurmountable, tired and handicapped
+with heavy boats as we were.</p>
+
+<p>With a weary sigh we dropped our boats to the head
+of the rapid and prepared to make the portage. Our
+previous work was as nothing to this. Rounded limestone
+boulders, hard as flint and covered with a thin
+slime of mud from the recent rise, caused us to slip
+and fall many times. Then we dragged ourselves and
+loads up the sloping walls. They were cut with gullies
+from the recent rains; low scraggy cedars caught
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67"></span>at our loads, or tore our clothes, as we staggered along;
+the muddy earth stuck to our shoes, or caused our feet
+to slip from under us as we climbed, first two or three
+hundred feet above the water, then close to the river’s
+edge. Three-fourths of a mile of such work brought us
+a level place below the rapid. It took nine loads to
+empty one boat.</p>
+
+<p>Darkness came on before our boats were emptied, so
+they were securely tied in quiet water at the head of
+the rapid, and left for the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The next day found Emery and me at work on the
+boats, while Jimmy was stationed on the shore with the
+motion-picture camera. This wild scene, with its score
+of shooting currents, was too good a view to miss. With
+life-preservers inflated and adjusted, Emery sat in the
+boat at the oars, pulling against the current, lessening
+the velocity with which the boat was carried down toward
+the main barrier, while I followed on the shore,
+holding a rope, and dropped him down, a little at a time,
+until the water became too rough and the rocks too numerous.
+All directions were given with signals; the human
+voice was of little avail in the turmoil. We kept the
+boats in the water as long as it was safe to do so, for it
+greatly lessened the hard work of a portage. With one
+end of the boat floating on the water, an ordinary lift
+would take the other end over a rock with insufficient
+water above it to float the boat. Then the boat was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68"></span>balanced on the rock, the opposite end was lifted, she
+was shoved forward and dropped in the water again
+and another threatening rock was passed. Foot by foot
+we fought our way, now on the shore, now waist deep in
+the water below some protecting boulder, threatened
+every moment by the whirling water that struggled to
+drag us into the torrent. The sand and water collecting
+in our clothes weighted us down; the chill of standing in
+the cold water numbed our limbs. Finally the barrier
+was reached and the boats were run out close to the end,
+and tied in a quiet pool, while we devised some method
+of getting them past or over this obstruction.</p>
+
+<p>Directly underneath and beyond the roots of the tree
+were large rounded boulders, covered with slippery mud.
+Past this barrier the full force of the water raced, to hurl
+itself and divide its current against another rock. It
+was useless to try to take a boat around the end of the
+rock. The boat’s sides, three-eighths of an inch thick,
+would be crushed like a cardboard box. If lifted into
+the V-shaped groove, the weight of the boats would wedge
+them and crush their sides. Fortunately an upright
+log was found tightly wedged between these boulders.
+A strong limb, with one end resting on a rock opposite,
+was nailed to this log; a triangle of stout sticks, with
+the point down, was placed opposite this first limb, on
+the same level, and was fastened to the upright log with
+still another piece; and another difficulty was overcome.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_068a-fp" style="max-width: 72.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_068a-fp.jpg" alt="The 'Edith' is beached among large rocks on the shore. One man passes two bags of gear from the hatch to another man standing among the rocks.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“IT TOOK NINE LOADS TO EMPTY ONE BOAT.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp68" id="i_068b-fp" style="max-width: 72.5625em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_068b-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands between two large boulders in the middle of raging water. He holds a rope with his left hand that is tied to an upright log; his right hand rests on a smaller horizontal log wedged between a boulder and the upright log.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“AN UPRIGHT LOG WAS FOUND WEDGED BETWEEN
+    THE BOULDERS.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69"></span></p>
+
+<p>With a short rope fastened to the iron bar or hand-hold
+on the stern, this end was lifted on to the cross-piece,
+the bow sticking into the water at a sharp angle. The
+short rope was tied to the stump, so we would not lose
+that we had gained. The longer rope from the bow was
+thrown over the roots of the tree above, then we both
+pulled on the rope, until finally the bow was on a level
+with the stern. She was pulled forward, the ropes were
+loosened and the boat rested on the cross-pieces. The
+motion-picture camera was transferred so as to command
+a view of the lower side of the barrier, then the boat was
+carefully tilted, and slid forward, a little at a time, until
+she finally gained headway, nearly jerking the rope from
+our hands, and shot into the pool below.</p>
+
+<p>We enjoyed the wildest ride we had experienced up
+to this time in running the lower end of this rapid. The
+balance of the day was spent in the same camp below
+the rapid. Our tent was put up in a group of box elder
+trees,—the first trees of this species we had seen. Red
+cedar trees dotted the rocky slopes, while the larger
+pines became scarce at the river’s edge, and gathered
+near the top of the canyon’s walls. The dark red rocks
+near the bottom were covered with a light blue-tinted
+stratum of limestone, similar to the fallen rocks found
+in the rapid above. In one land-slide, evidently struck
+with some rolling rock, lay the body of a small deer.
+We saw many mountain sheep tracks, but failed to see
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70"></span>the sheep. Many dead fish, their gills filled with the
+slimy mud from the recent rise, floated past us, or lay
+half buried in the mud. These things were noticed as
+we went about our duties, for we were too weary to do
+any exploring.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, Monday, October the <abbr title="second">2d</abbr>, saw
+us making arrangements for the final run that would
+take us out of Lodore Canyon. No doubt it was a beautiful
+and a wonderful place, but none of us seemed sorry
+to leave it behind. For ten days we had not had a single
+day entirely free from rain, and instead of having a chance
+to run rapids, it seemed as if we had spent an entire week
+in carrying our loads, or in lining our boats through the
+canyon. The canyon walls lost much of their precipitous
+character as we neared the end of the canyon.</p>
+
+<p>A short run took us over the few rapids that remained,
+and at a turn ahead we saw a 300-foot ridge, brilliantly
+tinted in many colours,—light and golden yellows, orange
+and red, purple and lavender,—and composed of numberless
+wafer-like layers of rock, uptilted, so that the broken
+ends looked like the spines of a gigantic fish’s back.
+A sharp turn to the left soon brought us to the end of this
+ridge, close to the bottom of a smooth, sheer wall. Across
+a wide, level point of sand we could see a large stream,
+the Yampa River, flowing from the East to join its waters
+with those of the Green. This was the end of Lodore
+Canyon.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">
+    CHAPTER VII
+    </h3>
+    <h4>JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Yampa, or Bear River, was a welcome sight to
+us in spite of its disagreeable whitish yellow, clay colour;
+quite different from the red water of the Green River.
+The new stream meant more water in the channel, something
+we needed badly, as our past tribulations showed.
+The recent rise on the Green had subsided a little, but
+we now had a much higher stage than when we entered
+Lodore. Quite likely the new conditions gave us six
+feet of water above the low water on which we had been
+travelling. Would it increase or diminish our dangers?
+We were willing, Emery and I, even anxious, to risk our
+chances on the higher water.</p>
+
+<p>Directly opposite the Yampa, the right shore of the
+Green went up sheer about 700 feet high, indeed it seemed
+to overhang a trifle. This had been named Echo Cliffs
+by Powell’s party. The cliffs gave a remarkable echo,
+repeating seven words plainly when shouted from the
+edge of the Yampa a hundred yards away, and would
+doubtless repeat more if shouted from the farther shore
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72"></span>of the Yampa. Echo Cliffs, we found, were in the form
+of a peninsula and terminated just below this point where
+we stood, the river doubling back on the other side of the
+cliff. On the left side of the river, the walls fell back,
+leaving a flat, level space of about twenty-five acres.
+Here was a little ranch of which Mrs. Chew had told us.
+The Chew ranch lay back from the river on top of the
+cliffs. We found no one at home here at this first ranch,
+but there was evidence of recent habitation. There were
+a few peach trees, and a small garden, while beyond this
+were two buildings,—little shacks in a dilapidated
+condition. The doors were off their hinges and leaned
+against the building, a few logs being placed against the
+doors. Past the dooryard, coming out of a small canyon
+above the ranch, ran a little brook; up this canyon was
+a trail, the outlet to the ranch above. We camped near
+the mouth of the stream.</p>
+
+<p>It had been agreed upon the night before, that we
+should endeavour to make arrangements to have Jimmy
+taken out on horseback over the mountains. Before
+looking for the ranch, however, we asked him if he did not
+wish to reconsider his decision to leave here. We pointed
+out that Jensen, Utah, was only fifty miles away, half that
+distance being in quiet water, and that the worst canyon
+was behind us. But he said he had enough of the river
+and preferred to see what could be done. While I busied
+myself about camp, he and Emery left for the ranch.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_072a-fp" style="max-width: 72.9375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_072a-fp.jpg" alt="A calm river curves around a massive, vertical, nearly smooth canyon wall on the right. Low hills are in the distance on the left.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">ECHO CLIFFS. “THIS WAS THE END OF LODORE.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_072b-fp" style="max-width: 72.375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_072b-fp.jpg" alt="A smooth river flows across the bottom of the photo. A flat-topped mesa is on the right. In the center, a canyon wall rises several hundred feet, sloping downward towards the left side of the photo.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">END OF ECHO CLIFFS. THE MOUTH OF THE YAMPA
+    RIVER IS ON THE RIGHT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73"></span></p>
+
+<p>About seven o’clock that evening they returned in
+great spirits. They had found the ranch without any
+trouble nearly three miles from our camp. Mrs. Chew
+was there and gave them a hearty welcome. She had
+often wondered what had become of us. She invited
+the boys to remain for supper, which they did. They
+talked over the matter of transportation for Jimmy.
+As luck would have it, Mrs. Chew was going to drive
+over to Jensen, and Vernal, Utah, in two days’ time, and
+agreed to take Jimmy along.</p>
+
+<p>Early the next morning two boys, one about fourteen
+years old the other a little older, rode down from the
+ranch. Some of their horses were pastured across the
+river and they had come after these. After a short
+visit they got into the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> with Emery and prepared to
+cross over to the pasture, which was a mile or more downstream.
+They were soon out of our sight. Jimmy and I
+remained at the camp, taking pictures, packing his
+belongings, and finding many odd jobs to be done. In
+about three hours the boys returned with their horses.
+The horses were quite gentle, and they had no difficulty
+in swimming them across. A young colt, too feeble to
+swim, placed its fore feet on its mother’s flanks and was
+ferried across in that way. Then they were driven over
+a narrow trail skirting the cliff, 300 feet above the river.
+No one, looking from the river, would have imagined that
+any trail, over which horses could be driven, existed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74"></span></p>
+
+<p>The boys informed us that we were expected at the
+ranch for dinner, and would listen to no refusal so up
+we went, although we would have to make a second trip
+that day. The view of the ranch was another of those
+wonderful scenic changes which we were to meet with
+everywhere in this region. The flat on which we stood
+was simply a pocket, shut in by the round-domed mountains,
+with a pass, or an opening, to the east side. A
+small stream ran down a mountain side, spreading over
+the rocks, and glistening in the sunlight. This same
+stream passed the ranch, and ran on down through the
+narrow canyon up which we had come. The ranch itself
+was refreshing. The buildings were new, some were
+under construction; but there was considerable ground
+under cultivation. Cattle were scattered up the valley,
+or dotted the rocky slopes below the mountains. A wild
+spot this, on the borderland of the three states. None but
+people of fortitude, or even of daring, would think of
+taking up a homestead in this secluded spot. The
+same rumours of the escaped prisoners had drifted in here.
+It was Mr. Chew who gave us the information we have
+previously quoted concerning the murdered man. He had
+found the body in the boat, in front of the post-office.
+He further stated that others in the mountains would not
+hesitate at anything to drive out those who were trying
+to improve a homestead as he was doing, and that it was
+a common event to find the carcasses of his own horses
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75"></span>or cattle which had been ruthlessly slaughtered. This
+was the reason for putting the horses across the river.
+There they were safe, for none could approach them save
+by going past the ranch, or coming through Lodore
+Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Chew also told us of the Snyders, who had lost
+their boat in upper Lodore Canyon, and of how he had
+given them a horse and provisions to aid them in reaching
+the settlements. This did not prevent the elder Snyder
+from coming back to trap the next year, much to Mr.
+Chew’s disgust. He thought one experience should be
+enough for any man.</p>
+
+<p>While we were talking, a very old, bearded man rode in
+on a horse. He was Pat Lynch, the owner of the little
+ranch by the river. He was a real old-timer, having
+been in Brown’s Park when Major Powell was surveying
+that section of the country. He told us that he had
+been hired to get some meat for the party, and had killed
+five mountain sheep. He was so old that he scarcely
+knew what he was talking about, rambling from one
+subject to another; and would have us listening with impatience
+to hear the end of some wonderful tale of the
+early days, when he would suddenly switch off on to an
+entirely different subject, leaving the first unfinished.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of his years he was quite active, having broken
+the horses on which he rode, bareback, without assistance.
+We were told that he placed a spring or trap gun in his
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76"></span>houses at the river, ready to greet any prying marauder.
+The last we saw of him he was on his way to the post-office,
+miles away, to draw his pension for service in the
+Civil War.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the transportation of Jimmy, it was
+settled that the Chews were to leave early the next morning.
+They also agreed to take out our exposed films and plate
+for us—something we had not counted on, but too good
+a chance to lose. We all three returned to the boats and
+packed the stuff that was to go out; then went back to
+the ranch with Jimmy. It was late—after midnight—when
+we reached there, and we did not disturb any one.
+Jimmy’s blankets were unrolled in the wagon, so there
+would be no question about his going out. He was to
+go to Jensen, or Vernal, and there await us, keeping our
+films until we arrived. We knew they were in good hands.
+It was with some difficulty that we found our way back
+to our camp. The trail was difficult and it was pitch
+dark. My boat had been taken down to where Emery
+left the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> when the horses were driven across, and this
+extra distance was added to our walk.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_076-fp" style="max-width: 68.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_076-fp.jpg" alt="View of a canyon wall that is vertical on the river side, eroded into a slope on the other.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">MARVELS OF EROSION.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We were laggard the next morning, and in no hurry
+to resume our work. We rearranged our loads in the
+boats; with one less man and considerable less baggage
+as well, they were lighter by far. Our chances looked
+much more favourable for an easier passage. Not only
+were these things in our favour, but in addition we felt
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77"></span>that we had served our apprenticeship at navigation in
+rapid water, and we were just as capable of meeting the
+rapids to follow as if we had years of experience to our
+record. On summing up we found that the river had
+dropped 1000 feet since leaving Green River, Wyoming,
+and that 5000 feet remained, to put us on a level with
+the ocean. Our difficulties would depend, of course,
+on how this fall was distributed. Most of the fall behind
+was found in Lodore and Red canyons. It was doubtful
+indeed if any section would have a more rapid fall than
+Lodore Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>There is a certain verse of wisdom which says that
+“Pride goeth before a fall,” but perhaps it was just as
+well for us if we were a little bit elated by our past achievements
+as long as we had to go through with the balance
+of our self-imposed task. Confidence, in a proper degree,
+is a great help when real difficulties have to be surmounted.
+We were full of confidence that day when we pulled away
+about noon into Whirlpool Canyon, Whirlpool Canyon
+being next on the list. The camp we were about to leave
+was directly opposite Lodore Canyon, where it ran against
+the upended cliff. The gorgeous colours were the same
+as those on the opposite side, and, to a certain degree, were
+also found in Whirlpool Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>Our two and a half hours’ dash through the fourteen
+miles of rapid water in Whirlpool Canyon put us in a
+joyful frame of mind. Rapid after rapid was left behind
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78"></span>us without a pause in our rowing, with only a hasty
+survey standing on the deck of the boats before going
+over. Others that were free from rocks were rowed in
+bow first, the big waves breaking over our boats and ourselves.
+We bailed while drifting in the quiet stretches,
+then got ready for the next rapids. Two large rapids
+only were looked over from the shore and these were run
+in the same manner. We could hardly believe it was true
+when we emerged from the mountain so quickly into a
+little flat park or valley sheltered in the hills. This was
+Island or Rainbow Park, the latter name being suggested
+by the brilliant colouring of the rocks, in the mountains
+to our left. Perhaps the form of the rocks themselves
+helped a little, for here was one end of the rainbow of rock
+which began on the other side of the mountains. Jagged-edged
+canyons looking almost as if their sides had been
+rent asunder came out of these mountains. There was
+very little dark red here except away on top, 2300 feet
+above, where a covering of pines made a soft background
+for light-cream and gorgeous yellow-coloured pinnacles, or
+rocky walls of pink and purple and delicate shades of
+various hues. Large cottonwoods appeared again along
+the river banks, in brilliant autumn colours, adding to
+the beauties of the scene. Back from the river, to the
+west, stretched the level park, well covered with bunch-grass
+on which some cattle grazed, an occasional small
+prickly pear cactus, and the ever present, pungent sage.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79"></span>Verdure-covered islands dotted the course of the stream,
+which was quiet and sluggish, doubling back and forth
+like a serpent over many a useless mile. Nine miles of
+rowing brought us back to a point about three miles
+from the mouth of Whirlpool Canyon; where the river
+again enters the mountain, deliberately choosing this
+course to one, unobstructed for several miles, to the
+right.</p>
+
+<p>The next gorge was Split Mountain Canyon, so
+named because the stream divided the ridge length-wise,
+from one end to the other. It was short, only nine
+miles long, with a depth of 2700 feet in the centre of the
+canyon. Three miles of the nine were put behind us
+before we camped that evening. These were run in
+the same manner as the rapids of Whirlpool, scarcely
+pausing to look them over, but these rapids were bigger,
+much bigger. One we thought was just formed or at
+least increased in size by a great slide of rock that had
+fallen since the recent rains. We just escaped trouble in
+this rapid, both boats going over a large rock with a
+great cresting wave below, and followed by a very rough
+rapid. Emery was standing on top of a fifteen-foot
+rock below the rapid when I went over, and for a few
+moments could see nothing of my boat, hardly believing
+it possible that I had come through without a scratch.
+These rapids with the high water looked more like rapids
+we had seen in the Grand Canyon, and were very unlike
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80"></span>the shallow water of a week previous. We had only
+travelled a half day, but felt as if it had been a very complete
+day when we camped at the foot of a rock slide on
+the right, just above another big rapid.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, October 5, Camp No. 20 was left
+behind. The rapid below the camp was big, big enough
+for a moving picture, so we took each other in turns as
+we ran the rapid. More rapids followed, but these were
+not so large. A few sharp-pointed spires of tinted rock
+lifted above us a thousand feet or more. Framed in
+with the branches of the near-by cottonwood trees, they
+made a charming picture. Less than three hours brought
+us to the end of Split Mountain Canyon, and the last
+bad water we were to have for some time. Just before
+leaving the canyon, we came to some curious grottos, or
+alcoves, under the rock walls on the left shore. The river
+has cut into these until they overhang, some of them
+twenty-five feet or over. In one of these was a beaver
+lying on a pile of floating sticks. Although we passed
+quite close, the beaver never moved, and we did not
+molest it.</p>
+
+<p>Another shower greeted us as we emerged into the
+Uinta Valley as it is called by the Ute Indians. This
+valley is eighty-seven miles long. It did not have the
+fertileness of Brown’s Park, being raised in bare rolling
+hills, runnelled and gullied by the elements. The water
+was quiet here, and hard rowing was necessary to make
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81"></span>any progress. We had gone about seven miles when we
+spied a large placer dredge close to the river. To the
+uninitiated this dredge would look much like a dredging
+steamboat out of water, but digging its own channel,
+which is what it really does.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_080-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_080-fp.jpg" alt="At the bottom of the photo, one boat sits on a wide rocky beach that spans the width. Beyond the beach, rocky hills, some with trees or scrub brush, rise gently to the horizon, at the top of the image.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“HERE WAS ONE END OF THE RAINBOW OF ROCK WHICH BEGAN ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Great beds of gravel lay on either side of the river and
+placer gold in large or small quantities, but usually the
+latter is likely to exist in these beds. When a dredge
+like the one found here is to be installed, an opening is
+made in the river’s bank leading to an excavation which
+has been made, then a large flatboat is floated in this.
+The dredging machinery is on this float, as well as most of
+the machinery through which the gravel is passed accompanied
+by a stream of water; then with quicksilver
+and rockers of various designs, the gold is separated from
+the gravel and sand.</p>
+
+<p>Numerous small buildings were standing near the
+dredge, but the buildings were empty, and the dredge
+lay idle. We saw many fresh tracks of men and horses
+and were welcomed by a sleek, well-fed cat, but found the
+place was deserted. All buildings were open and in one
+was a telephone. We were anxious to hear just where
+we were, so we used the telephone and explained what
+we wanted to know. The “Central” informed us that
+we were about nine miles from Jensen, so we returned
+to the boats and pulled with a will through a land that
+was no longer barren, but with cozy ranch houses, surrounded
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82"></span>by rows of stately poplars, bending with the
+wind, for it was storming in earnest now. About six
+o’clock that evening we caught sight of the top of the
+Jensen bridge; then, as we neared the village, the sun
+broke through the pall of cloud and mist, and a rainbow
+appeared in the sky above, and was mirrored in the
+swollen stream, rainbow and replica combined nearly
+completing the wondrous arc. There was a small inn
+beside the bridge, and arrangements were made for
+staying there that night. We were told that Jim and
+Mrs. Chew had passed through Jensen about four hours
+before we arrived. They had left word that they would
+go on through to Vernal, fifteen miles distant from the
+river.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">
+    CHAPTER VIII
+    </h3>
+    <h4>AN INLAND EXCURSION
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jensen</span> was a small village with two stores and a
+post-office. A few scattered houses completed the village
+proper, but prosperous-looking ranches spread out on the
+lowland for two or three miles in all directions on the
+west side of the river. Avenues of poplar trees, fruit
+trees, and fields of alfalfa gave these ranches a different
+appearance from any others we had passed.</p>
+
+<p>We found some mail awaiting us at the post-office,
+and were soon busily engaged in reading the news from
+home. We conversed awhile with the few people at
+the hotel, then retired, but first made arrangements for
+saddle horses for the ride to Vernal.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we found two spirited animals, saddled
+and waiting for us. We had some misgivings concerning
+these horses, but were assured that they were “all right.”
+A group of grinning cowboys and ranch hands craning
+their necks from a barn, a hundred yards distant, rather
+inclined us to think that perhaps our informant might
+be mistaken. Nothing is more amusing to these men of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84"></span>the range than to see a man thrown from his horse, and
+a horse that is “all right” for one of them might be
+anything else to persons such as we who never rode
+anything except gentle horses, and rode those indifferently.
+We mounted quickly though, trying to appear unconcerned.
+The horses, much to our relief, behaved quite
+well, Emery’s mount rearing back on his hind legs
+but not bucking. After that, all went smoothly.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the irrigated ranches on the bottom lands,
+we ascended a low, rolling mesa, composed of gravel and
+clay, unwatered and unfertile, from which we caught
+occasional glimpses of the mountains and the gorge from
+which we had emerged, their brilliant colours softened
+and beautified by that swimming blue haze which belongs
+to this plateau region. Then we rode down into the
+beautiful Ashley Valley, watered by Ashley Creek, a
+good-sized stream even after it was used to irrigate all
+the country for miles above. The valley was several
+miles wide. The stream emptied into the river about a
+mile below Jensen. All parts of the valley were under
+cultivation. It is famous for its splendid deciduous
+fruits, apples, pears, peaches; splendid both in appearance
+and flavour. It excelled not only in fruits,
+however, but in all products of the field as well. “Vernal
+honey,” which is marketed far and near, has a reputation
+for fine flavour wherever it is known. A thick growth of
+the bee-blossom or bee-weed crowded the road sides and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85"></span>hugged the fences. The fragrance of the flower can
+easily be noticed in the sweetness of the honey. The
+pity of it was that bushels of fruit lay rotting on the
+ground, for there were no transportation facilities, the
+nearest railroad being 90 miles distant. There were
+stock ranches too, with blooded stock in the fence-enclosed
+fields. Some of the splendid horses paced along
+beside us on the other side of the fence. We heard the
+rippling song of some meadow-larks this day, the only birds
+of this species we remember having seen on the Western
+plateaus.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_084-fp" style="max-width: 47.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_084-fp.jpg" alt="A man on horseback raises his hat to the photographer. A burro is tied by a leash behind his horse. Hills rise up behind him to the horizon.">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">PAT LYNCH: THE CANYON HERMIT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>All these ranches were laid out in true Mormon style,
+that is, squared off in sections, fenced, and planted with
+shade-trees before being worked. The roads are usually
+wide and the streets exceptionally so. Except in the
+business streets, a large garden usually surrounds the
+home building, each family endeavouring to raise all their
+own vegetables, fruits, and poultry. They usually succeed.</p>
+
+<p>The shade trees about Vernal were Lombardy poplars.
+They attained a height that would give ample shade under
+most conditions, and too much when we were there, for
+the roads were very muddy, although they had dried in
+all other sections. Nearing Vernal, we passed Nathan
+Galloway’s home, a cozy place set back some distance
+from the road. We had hoped to meet Galloway and
+have an opportunity of talking over his experiences with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86"></span>him, but found he was absent on a hunting trip, in fact
+was up in the mountains we had come through.</p>
+
+<p>On nearing the town we were greeted by a busy
+scene. Numerous wagons and horses stood in squares
+reserved for that purpose, or were tied to hitching posts
+in front of the many stores. Ranchers and their families
+were everywhere in evidence; there were numerous
+prospectors in their high-topped boots just returning
+from the mountains, and oil men in similar garb, muddy
+from head to foot. Later we learned that oil had recently
+been discovered about forty miles distant, this fact
+accounting for much of the activity.</p>
+
+<p>The town itself was a surprise; we found it to be very
+much up-to-date considering its isolated position. Two
+of the streets were paved and oiled and were supplied with
+drinking fountains. There were two prosperous looking
+banks, two well-stocked and up-to-date drug stores,
+several mercantile stores, and many others, all busy.
+Many of the buildings were of brick; all were substantial.</p>
+
+<p>Near a hotel we observed a group of men surrounding
+some one who was evidently keeping them interested.
+On approaching them we found it was Jimmy, giving a
+graphic description of some of our difficulties. His
+story was not finished, for he saw us and ran to greet us,
+as pleased to see us as we were to see him. He had
+little idea we would be along for two or three days and
+naturally was much surprised.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87"></span></p>
+
+<p>On entering the hotel we were greeted by an old Grand
+Canyon friend, a civil engineer named Duff, who with a
+crew of men had been mapping the mountains near Whirlpool
+Canyon. You can imagine that it was a gratifying
+surprise to all concerned to find we were not altogether
+among strangers, though they were as hospitable as
+strangers could be. The hotel was a lively place that night.
+There was some musical talent among Duff’s men, and
+Duff himself was an artist on the piano. Many of the
+young people of the town had dropped in that evening,
+as some one had passed the word that there might be an
+impromptu entertainment at the hotel. There was.
+Duff played and the boys sang. Jimmy was himself
+again and added his rich baritone. The town itself was
+not without musical talent, and altogether it was a restful
+change for us.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps we should have felt even better if we had been
+dressed differently, for we wore much the same clothes as
+those in which we did our work on the river—a woollen
+shirt and overalls. Besides, neither Emery nor I had
+shaved since starting, and it is quite likely that we looked
+just a little uncouth. Appearances count for little with
+these people in the little-settled districts, and it is a
+common enough sight to them to see men dressed as we
+were. They did everything they could to make us feel
+at ease. As one person remarked,</p>
+
+<p>“The wealthiest cattle man, or the owner of the richest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88"></span>mine in the country, usually looks worse than all others
+after a month on the range or in the hills.”</p>
+
+<p>If wealth were indicated on an inverse ratio to one’s
+good appearance, we should have been very wealthy indeed.
+We felt as if it would take us a week to get rested
+and lost little time in getting to bed when the party
+broke up. We imagine most of the residents of Vernal
+were Mormons. It is part of their creed to give “the
+stranger within their gates” a cordial welcome. This
+however, was accorded to us, not only among the Mormons,
+but in every section of our journey on the Green
+and Colorado rivers.</p>
+
+<p>The following day was a busy one. Arrangements
+had been made with a local photographer to get the use
+of his dark room, and we proceeded to develop all plates
+and many of our films. These were then to be packed
+and shipped out. We were informed at the local express
+office, that it might be some time before they would go,
+as the recent rains had been very bad in Colorado and
+had washed out most of the bridges.</p>
+
+<p>Vernal had passenger transportation to the railway—a
+branch of the D. &amp; R. G. running north into Colorado—by
+automobile, the route lying across the Green and
+also across the White River, a tributary to the Green. A
+steel structure had been washed away on the White
+River, making it impossible to get through to the station.
+The high water below here must have been a flood,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89"></span>judging from all reports. About ten bridges, large and
+small, were reported as being washed away on numerous
+branch streams leading into the Green River. Fortunately
+Vernal had another means of communication. This
+was a stage running southwest from Vernal, over 125
+miles of rough road to Price, Utah—Price being a station
+on the main line of the D. &amp; R. G.</p>
+
+<p>Jimmy concluded that he would take this road, in
+preference to the uncertainties of the other route, and
+noon that day found him on board the stage. He promised
+to write to us, and was anxious to hear of our
+success, but remarked that when he once got home he
+would “never leave San Francisco again.” There was a
+final hand clasp, a cheer from the small group of men, and
+the stage drove away with Jimmy, a happy boy indeed.</p>
+
+<p>Our work on the developing progressed well, and with
+very satisfying results on the whole, and that evening
+found us with all plates packed ready for shipment to
+our home. The moving-picture film was also packed and
+shipped to be developed at once. This was quite a load
+off our minds.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we prepared to depart, but did not
+leave until the afternoon. Then, with promises to let
+them know the outcome of our venture, we parted
+from our friends and rode back to Jensen.</p>
+
+<p>We planned on leaving the following morning. The
+river had fallen one foot since we had landed, and we were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90"></span>anxious to have the benefit of the high water. We
+were told that it was six feet above the low-water stage
+of two weeks before.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday, October the 9th, after loading our boat
+with a new stock of provisions,—in which was included a
+few jars of honey, and a few dozen of eggs, packed in
+sawdust,—we began what might be called the second
+stage of our journey; the 175-mile run to Blake or Green
+River, Utah, a little west of south from Jensen. Ten
+miles below Jensen was a ferry used by the auto and
+wagons. Here also was a ranch house, with a number of
+people in the yard. We were invited to land and did so.
+They had been informed by telephone of our coming and
+were looking for us; indeed they had even prepared
+dinner for us, hoping we would reach there in time.
+Not knowing all this, we had eaten our cold lunch half an
+hour before. The women were busy preserving fruits
+and garden truck, and insisted on us taking two or three
+jars along. This was a welcome change to the dried
+fruit, which was one of our principal foods. These people
+made the usual request&#x2060;—</p>
+
+<p>“Drop us a post card if you get through.”</p>
+
+<p>The memory of these people that we met on this
+journey will linger with us as long as we live. They
+were always anxious to help us or cheer us on our way.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_090-fp" style="max-width: 47.9375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_090-fp.jpg" alt="At the side of the river, a man sits on an oar at the prow of the 'Defiance' with a duffle bag. On the shore next to the boat is bedding yet to be rolled and stowed. Beyond, canyon walls rise beyond the top of the photo.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">EACH BED WAS PLACED IN A RUBBER AND A CANVAS SACK. PHOTO TAKEN IN MARBLE CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at
+work with a team and scoop shovel, the method being
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91"></span>to scoop up the gravel and sand, then dump it in an iron
+car. This was then pulled by the horses to the top of
+a derrick up a sloping track and dumped. A stream of
+water pumped up from the river mixed with the gravel,
+the entire mass descended a long zigzagging chute. We
+paused a few minutes only and did not examine the complicated
+process of separating the mineral from the gravel.
+This dredge had been recently installed. We camped
+early, half a mile below the dredge.</p>
+
+<p>Emery had been feeling poorly all this day. He
+blamed his indisposition to having eaten too many
+good things when in Vernal—a break in training, as it
+were. This was our excuse for a short run that day. I
+played nurse and gave him some simple remedy from the
+little supply that we carried; and, after he was in his
+sleeping bag, I filled some hot-water bags for the first
+time on the trip, and soon had him feeling quite
+comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>A hard wind came up that night, and a little rain fell.
+I had a busy half-hour keeping our camp from being blown
+away. The storm was of short duration, and all was
+soon quiet again. On the following morning Emery
+felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with
+him and I wondered if he would ever stop. Towards
+evening, after a long pull, we neared the reservation of
+the Uinta Utes, and saw a few Indians camped away
+from the river. Here, again, were the cottonwood
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92"></span>bottoms, banked by the barren, gravelly hills. We had
+been informed that there was a settlement called Ouray,
+some distance down the river, and we were anxious to
+reach it before night. But the river was sluggish, with
+devious and twisting channels, and it was dark when we
+finally landed at the Ouray ferry.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">
+    CHAPTER IX
+    </h3>
+  <h4>CANYON OF DESOLATION
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ouray</span>, Utah, consisted of a large store to supply
+the wants of the Indians and ranchers, a small hotel,
+and a few dwellings. The agency proper was located
+some distance up the Uinta River, which stream emptied
+into the Green, just below Ouray.</p>
+
+<p>Supper was taken at the hotel, after which we visited a
+young man in charge of the store, looking over his curios
+and listening to tales of his life here among these Indians.
+They were peaceable enough now, but in years gone by
+were a danger to be reckoned with. We slept in our own
+beds close to our boats by the river.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, when we were ready to leave,
+a small crowd gathered, a few Indians among them. Most
+of the Indians were big, fat, and sleepy-looking. Apparently
+they enjoyed the care of the government.
+A mile below we passed several squaws and numerous
+children under some trees, while on a high mound stood
+a lone buck Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94"></span>a single movement that we could see. He still stood
+there as we passed from sight a mile below. It might
+be interesting if one could know just what was in his mind
+as he watched us.</p>
+
+<p>A mile below the Uinta River, which entered on the
+west, we passed another stream, the White River, entering
+from the east, the two streams adding considerable
+water to the Green River. We passed another idle dredge,
+also some mineral workings in tunnels, and saw two
+men camped on the shore beside them. We saw
+numerous Indian carvings on the rocks, but judged they
+were recent because horses figured in most of them. In
+all the open country the river was fringed with large
+cottonwood trees, alders and willow thickets. A number
+of islands followed, one of them very symmetrical in
+shape, with cottonwood trees in the centre, while around
+the edge ran a fringe of bushes looking almost like a
+trimmed hedge. The autumn colouring added to its
+beauty. The hedge, as we called it, was dark red, brown,
+yellow, and green; the cottonwoods were a light yellow.
+After we had passed this island, a deer, confused by our
+voices, jumped into the river fifty yards behind us, leaping
+and swimming as he made for the shore. We had no
+gun, but Emery had the moving-picture camera at hand,
+and turned it on the deer. The hour was late, however,
+and we had little hopes of its success as a picture. The
+country back from the river stretched in rolling, barren
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95"></span>hills 200 or 300 feet high—a continuation of the Bad
+Lands of Utah, which lay off to the west.</p>
+
+<p>With the next day’s travel the hills lost some of their
+barren appearance. Some cattle were seen early in the
+afternoon of the following day. We passed a cattle man
+working at a ferry, who had just taken some stock across,
+which other men had driven on ahead. He was busy,
+so we did not interrupt him, merely calling to him from
+the boats, drifting meanwhile with the current. Soon we
+saw him riding down the shore and waited for him to
+catch up. He invited us to camp with him that evening,
+remarking that he had “just killed a beef.” We thanked
+him, but declined, as it was early and we had only travelled
+a short distance that day. We chatted awhile, and
+he told us to look out for rapids ahead. He was rather
+surprised when he learned that we had started at Green
+River, Wyoming, and had already come through a few
+rapids.</p>
+
+<p>“Where are you going to stop?” he then asked.</p>
+
+<p>On being told that our destination was Needles,
+California, he threw up his hands with an expressive
+gesture, then added soberly, “Well, boys, I sure wish you
+luck,” and rode back to his camp.</p>
+
+<p>We had difficulty in making a suitable landing that
+evening, as the high water had deposited great quantities
+of black mud over everything, making it very disagreeable
+when we left the boats. We finally found a place with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96"></span>less mud to wade through than on most of the banks
+seen, and tied up to the roots of a tree.</p>
+
+<p>While lying in our beds that night looking at the
+starlit sky—such a sky as is found only on these high
+plateaus—we discovered a comet directly above us.
+An astronomer would have enjoyed our opportunities
+for observing the heavens. No doubt this comet had
+been heralded far and wide, but we doubt if any one saw
+it to better advantage than did we.</p>
+
+<p>Later, some coyotes, possibly in chase of a rabbit, gave
+vent to their yodeling cry, and awakened us from a sound
+sleep. They were in a little lateral canyon, which
+magnified and gave a weird, organ-like echo to their
+calls long after the coyotes themselves had passed from
+hearing.</p>
+
+<p>The nights were getting warmer as we travelled south,
+but not so warm that we were bothered with insects. The
+same reason accounted for the absence of snakes or scorpions,
+for no doubt there were plenty of both in warm
+weather in this dry country. When there was no wind,
+the silence of the nights was impressive, with no sound
+save the lapping of the water against the banks. Sometimes
+a bird in the trees above would start up with a
+twitter, then quiet down again. On occasions the air
+chambers in our boats would contract on cooling off, making
+a noise like the boom of a distant gun, every little
+sound being magnified by the utter stillness of the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97"></span></p>
+
+<p>There were other times when it was not so quiet.
+Hundreds of birds, geese, ducks and mud-hens had been
+seen the last few days. Also there were occasional
+cranes and herons, over a thousand miles from their
+breeding place at the mouth of the Colorado. As dusk
+settled, we would see these birds abandon their feeding
+in the mud, and line up on the shore, or on an island, and go
+to sleep. Occasionally one of these birds would start
+up out of a sound sleep with an unearthly squawk. Possibly
+an otter had interrupted its dreams, or a fox had
+pounced on one as it slept. It may be that it was only a
+bad dream of these enemies that caused their fright,
+but whatever it was, that first call would start up the
+entire flock and they would circle in confusion like a
+stampeded herd of cattle, their discordant cries putting
+an end to the stillness of the night. Finally they would
+settle down in a new spot, and all would be quiet once
+more.</p>
+
+<p>We saw a few birds that were strangers to us,—water
+birds which we imagined belonged to the salt water
+rather than the inland streams, making a little excursion,
+perhaps, away from their accustomed haunts. One
+type we saw on two occasions, much like a gull, but
+smaller, pure white as far as we could tell, soaring in
+graceful flight above the river.</p>
+
+<p>Camp No. 26 was close to the beginning of a new
+canyon. The country had been changing in appearance
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98"></span>from rather flat plains to small bare hills, gradually
+increasing in height with smooth, rounded sides, and
+going up to a point, usually of a dirty clay colour, with
+little vegetation of any kind on them. The river for
+miles past had swept in long graceful curves, the hills
+being close to the river on the outside of the curve, leaving
+a big flat on the inside. This flat gradually sloped back
+to hills of an equal height to those opposite. Then the
+curve would reverse, and the same conditions would be
+met with again, but on opposite sides from the previous
+bend. After passing a creek the evening before, the
+hills became higher, and from our camp we could see the
+first place where they came close on both sides to the river.
+We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered canyons
+were behind us and from now on we would be hemmed
+in by the great eroded canyons of the Southwest. We
+were sorry to leave those others behind, and could easily
+understand why Major Powell had named this Desolation
+Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic
+shapes, as is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation.
+There was a hard rock near the top in places,
+which overhung a softer formation. This would erode,
+giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others were
+surmounted by square towers and these were capped by
+a border of little squares, making the whole look much
+like a castle on the Rhine. For half a day we found no
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99"></span>rapids, but pulled away on a good current. The walls
+gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a few trees
+cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were
+lashed together and lunch was eaten as we drifted. We
+covered about three miles in this way, taking in the
+scenery as we passed. We saw a great stone arch, or
+natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our right,
+and wondered if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our
+lunch was no more than finished when the first rapid was
+heard ahead of us. Quickly unlashing our boats, we
+prepared for strenuous work. Friday the 13th proved
+to be a lucky day; thirteen large rapids and thirteen
+small ones were placed behind us before we camped at
+Rock Creek—a splashing, laughing mountain stream,
+no doubt containing trout.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we found there was a little
+ranch house below us, but, though we called from our
+boats, no one came out. We wondered how any one could
+reach this out-of-the-way place, as a road would be almost
+an impossibility. Later we found a well-constructed
+trail on the right-hand side all the way through the
+canyon. We saw a great many cattle travelling this
+trail. Some were drinking at the river when we swept
+into view. Our boats filled them with alarm, and they
+scrambled for the hillsides, looking after us with frightened
+expressions as we left them to the rear.</p>
+
+<p>We put in a full day at running rapids, one after another,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100"></span>until fifteen large ones were passed, no count being kept
+of the smaller ones. Some of these rapids resembled
+dams from six to twelve feet high, with the water falling
+abruptly over a steep slope. Others were long and
+rough, with swift water in places. Above one of these
+we had landed, then found we could get a much better
+view from the opposite shore. Emery crossed and
+landed, I followed. We had been having heavy winds
+all day. When crossing here I was caught by a sudden
+gust of wind and carried to the head of the rapid. I heard
+Emery call, “Look out for the big rock!” then over I
+went. The wind and water together had turned my boat
+sideways, and try as I would I could not get it turned
+around. I saw the rock Emery referred to straight
+ahead of me. It was about fifteen feet square and
+about fourteen feet from the shore, with a powerful current
+shooting between the rock and the shore. It seemed
+as if I must strike the rock broadside, and I ceased my
+struggle, but held out an oar with both hands, hoping to
+break the blow. But it never came. The water struck
+this rock with great force, then rebounded, and actually
+kept me from even touching the rock with the oar, but
+it caught the boat and shot it through the narrow channel,
+bow first, as neatly as it could possibly be done, then,
+turned the boat around again as I scrambled to regain
+my hold on both oars. No other rocks threatened,
+however, and besides filling the cockpit with water, no
+damage was done.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_100-fp" style="max-width: 68.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_100-fp.jpg" alt="The Kolb brothers stand ashore a few feet apart, holding a line of fish between them. A tent is on the left, baggage is on the ground around the men, and the river flows behind them.">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="right smaller"><span class="allsmcap">E. L. KOLB.</span> &emsp; <span class="allsmcap">EMERY KOLB.</span> &emsp; <i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+   <p class="allsmcap">“NOW FOR A FISH STORY!”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101"></span>
+Emery had no desire to follow my passage and crossed
+back to the other side. Shooting over the upper end
+of the rapid, his boat ran up on a rounded rock, the
+stern sticking high in the air; it paused a moment, the
+current slowly turning it around as if on a pivot, and
+the boat slid off; then down he came lurching and
+plunging, but with no more difficulty. Many times in
+such places as these we saw the advantage of our flat-bottomed
+boats over one with a keel, for these would
+surely be upset when running up on such a rock.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">
+    CHAPTER X
+  </h3>
+  <h4>HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed
+entirely in the lower end. Instead of a straight canyon
+without a break, we were surrounded by mountain
+peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side canyons
+between them and with little level parks at the end of
+the canyons beside the river. The tops were pine-covered;
+cedars clung to the rocky slopes. Some of
+these peaks were not unlike the formations of the Grand
+Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red colouring
+was once more found in the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>These peaks were gradually dropping down in height;
+and at one open section, with alfalfa and hay fields
+on gently sloping hillsides, we found a small ranch,
+the buildings being set back from the river. We concluded
+to call and found three men, the rancher and
+two young cowboys, at work in a blacksmith shop.
+Emery had forgotten to remove his life-preserver, and the
+men looked at him with some astonishment, as he was still
+soaking wet from the splashing waves of the last rapid.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103"></span>When I joined him he was explaining that no one had
+been drowned, and that we were merely making an excursion
+down the river. Mr. McPherson, the rancher,
+we learned, owned all the cattle seen up the river. The
+little cabin at our last camp was a sort of headquarters
+for his cowboys. The cattle were just being driven from
+the mountains before the snows came, and were to be
+wintered here in the canyons. Some of these cattle were
+much above the usual grade of range cattle, being
+thoroughbreds, although most of them ran loose on the
+range. This ranch had recently lost a valuable bull
+which had been killed by a bear up in the mountains—not
+unlike similar conflicts in more civilized sections of
+the country. McPherson camped on this bear’s trail
+for several days and nights before he finally hung his
+pelt on a tree. He was a large cinnamon-coloured grizzly.
+Four other bears had been killed this same year, in these
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>McPherson’s home had burned down a short time
+before our visit, and his family had removed to Green
+River, Utah. A number of tents were erected, neatly
+boarded up, and we were informed that one of these
+was reserved for company, so we need not think of going
+any farther that day. These men, while absolutely
+fearless in the saddle, over these rough mountain trails,
+had “no use for the river” they told us; in fact, we found
+this was the usual attitude of the cattle men wherever we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104"></span>met them. McPherson’s respect for the river was not
+without reason, as his father, with two others, had been
+drowned while making a crossing in a light boat near
+this point, some years before. Some accident occurred,
+possibly the breaking of a rowlock, and they were carried
+into a rapid. McPherson’s men found it necessary
+to cross their cattle back and forth, but always took the
+wise precaution to have on some life-preservers. These
+cork preservers hung in the blacksmith shop, where
+they could easily be reached at a moment’s notice.</p>
+
+<p>Desolation Canyon, with a slight breaking down
+of the walls for a short distance only, gave place to
+Gray Canyon below the McPherson Ranch. A good-sized
+mountain stream, part of which irrigated the
+ranch above, found its way through this division. We
+had been told that more rapids lay ahead of us in Gray
+Canyon, but they were not so numerous in our next
+day’s travel. What we did find were usually large, but
+we ran them all without difficulty. About noon we met
+five men in a boat, rowing up the stream in a long, still
+stretch. They told us they were working on a dam, a
+mile or two below. They followed us down to see us make
+the passage through the rapid which lay above their
+camp. The rapid was long and rocky, having a seventeen-foot
+fall in a half mile. We picked our channel by standing
+up in the boat before entering the rapid and were soon
+at the bottom with no worse mishap than bumping a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105"></span>rock or two rather lightly. We had bailed out and
+were tying our boats, when the men came panting down
+the hill up which they had climbed to see us make this
+plunge. A number of men were at work here, but this
+being Sunday, most of them had gone to Green River,
+Utah, twenty-one miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>Among the little crowd who came down to see us resume
+our rowing was a lady and a little girl who lived in
+a rock building, near the other buildings erected for
+the working-men. Emery showed the child a picture of
+his four-year-old daughter, Edith, with her mother—a
+picture he always carried in a note-book. Then he had
+her get in the boat with him, and we made a photograph
+of them. They were very good friends before we left.</p>
+
+<p>In a few hours we emerged from the low-walled canyon
+into a level country. A large butte, perhaps 700 feet
+high, stood out by itself, a mile from the main cliffs.
+This was Gunnison Butte, an old landmark near the
+Gunnison trail. We were anxious to reach Blake or
+Green River, Utah, not many miles below, that evening;
+but we failed to make it. There were several rapids,
+some of them quite large, and we had run them all when
+we came to a low dam that obstructed our passage,
+While looking it over, seeing how best to make a portage,
+a young man whom we had just seen remarked:</p>
+
+<p>“Well, boys, you had better tie up and I will help you
+in the morning.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106"></span></p>
+
+<p>It was 5.30 then, and we were still six miles from Green
+River, so we took his advice and camped. On seeing
+our sleeping bags, tightly strapped and making rather a
+small roll, he remarked:</p>
+
+<p>“Well, you fellows are not Mormons; I can tell by
+the size of your beds!”</p>
+
+<p>Our new friend gave the name of Wolverton. There
+was another man named Wilson who owned a ranch
+just below the dam. Both of these men were much interested
+in our experiences. Wolverton had considerable
+knowledge of the river and of boats; very little persuasion
+would have been necessary to have had him for
+a companion on the balance of our journey. But we
+had made up our minds to make it alone, now, as it looked
+feasible. Both Wilson and Wolverton knew the country
+below Green River, Utah, having made surveys through
+much of the surrounding territory. Wolverton said we
+must surely see his father, who lived down the river
+and who was an enthusiast on motor boats. A few
+minutes’ work the next morning sufficed to get our
+boats over the dam. The dam was constructed of
+loose rock and piles, chinked with brush and covered
+with sloping planks,—just a small dam to raise the
+water for irrigation purposes. Much of the water ran
+through the canal; in places the planks were dry, in
+others some water ran over. The boats, being unloaded,
+were pulled up on these planks, then slid into the water
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107"></span>below. Wilson had a large water wheel for irrigation purposes,
+the first of several such wheels which we were to see
+this day. These wheels, twenty feet or more in height,—with
+slender metal buckets each holding gallons
+of water, fastened at intervals on either side,—were
+placed in a swift current, anchored on the shore to stout
+piles, or erected over mill-races cut in the banks. There they
+revolved, the buckets filling and emptying automatically,
+the water running off in troughs above the level of the
+river back to the fertile soil. Some of these wheels had
+ingenious floating arrangements whereby they accommodated
+themselves to the different stages of a rising
+or falling river. We took a few pictures of Wilson’s
+place before leaving. He informed us that he had telephoned
+to certain people in Green River who would
+help us in various ways. Two hours’ rowing, past many
+pretty little ranches, brought us to the railroad bridge,
+a grateful sight to us. A pumping plant stood beside
+the bridge under charge of Captain Yokey, one of Wilson’s
+friends. Yokey owned a large motor boat, which was
+tied up to the shore. Our boats were left in his charge
+while we went up to the town, a mile distant. Another
+of Wilson’s friends met us, and secured a dark room for
+us so that we could do a little developing and we prepared
+for work on the following day.</p>
+
+<p>That night a newspaper reporter hunted us out,
+anxious for a story. We gave him what we had, making
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108"></span>light of our previous difficulties, which were exciting
+enough at times; but owing to the comparatively small
+size of the stream, we seldom thought our lives were in
+any great danger. The papers made the most of these
+things, and the stories that came out had little semblance
+to our original statements. We have since
+learned that no matter how much one minimizes such
+things, they are seldom published as reported.</p>
+
+<p>We put in a busy day unpacking new films and plates
+developing all films from the smaller cameras and sending
+these home. A new stock of provisions had to be
+purchased, enough for one month at least, for there was
+no chance of securing supplies until we reached our canyon
+home, about 425 miles below.</p>
+
+<p>We had a valuable addition to our cargo in two metal
+boxes that had been shipped here, as it was not possible
+to get them before leaving Wyoming. These cases or
+trunks were sent from England, and were water-tight,
+if not waterproof, there being a slight difference. Well
+constructed, with rubber gaskets and heavy clamps, every
+possible precaution had been taken, it seemed, to exclude
+the water and still render them easy of access. They
+were about thirty inches long, fifteen wide, and twelve
+high, just the thing for our photographic material. Up
+to this time everything had to be kept under the decks
+when in bad water. These boxes were placed in the
+open section in front of us, and were thoroughly fastened
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109"></span>to the ribs to prevent loss, ready to be opened or closed
+in a moment, quite a convenience when pictures had to
+be taken hurriedly.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we went over the boats, caulking
+few leaks. The bottoms of the boats were considerably
+the worse for wear, owing to our difficulties in the first
+canyons. We got some thin oak strips and nailed them
+on the bottom to help protect them, when portaging.
+Sliding the boats on the scouring sand and rough-surfaced
+rock was hard on the half-inch boards on the bottom
+of the boats. This work was all completed that day, and
+everything was ready for the next plunge.</p>
+
+<p>In passing the station, we noticed the elevation above
+sea-level was placed at 4085 feet, and remembered that
+Green River, Wyoming, was 6080 feet, showing that our
+descent in the past 425 miles had been close to 2000 feet.
+We had not found it necessary to line or portage any
+rapids since leaving Lodore Canyon; we were hopeful
+that our good luck would continue.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing was to be feared from what remained of the
+Green River, 120 miles or more, for motor boats made the
+journey to its junction with the Grand, and we were
+told even ascended the Grand for some distance. Below
+this junction was the Colorado River, a different stream
+from the one we were still to navigate.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving, we ate a final hearty breakfast at the
+boarding-house where we had been taking our meals.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110"></span>A number of young men, clerks in some of the business
+houses here, were among the boarders. The landlady
+a whole-souled German woman and an excellent cook,
+was greatly worried over their small appetites, thinking
+it was a reflection on her table. She remarked that she
+hoped we had good appetites, and I am sure she had
+no complaint to make so far as we were concerned. We
+had never stinted ourselves when on the river, but the
+change and the rest seemed to give us an abnormal
+appetite that could not be satisfied, and we would simply
+quit eating because we were ashamed to eat more. Less
+than half an hour after one of these big meals, I was surprised
+to see my brother in a restaurant with a sheepish
+grin on his face, and with a good-sized lunch before him.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">
+    CHAPTER XI
+    </h3>
+    <h4>WONDERS OF EROSION
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, October the 19th</i>. We embarked again with
+two of our new-found friends on board as passengers for
+a short ride, their intention being to hunt as they walked
+back. They left us at a ranch beside the San Rafæl
+River, a small stream entering from the west. They
+left some mail with us to be delivered to Mr. Wolverton,
+whose son we had met above. About 20 miles below
+Green River we reached his home. Judging by a number
+of boats—both motor and row boats—tied to his
+landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man.
+After glancing over his mail, he asked how we had come
+and was interested when he learned that we were making
+a boating trip. He was decidedly interested when he
+saw the boats and learned that we were going to our
+home in the Grand Canyon. His first impression was
+that we were merely making a little pleasure trip on the
+quiet water.</p>
+
+<p>Going carefully over the boats, he remarked that they
+met with his approval with one exception. They
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112"></span>seemed to be a little bit short for the heavy rapids of the
+Colorado, he thought. He agreed that our experience
+in the upper rapids had been good training, but said there
+was no comparison in the rapids. We would have a
+river ten times as great as in Lodore to contend with;
+and in numerous places, for short distances, the descent
+was as abrupt as anything we had seen on the Green.
+Wolverton was personally acquainted with a number of
+the men who had made the river trip, and, with the one
+exception of Major Powell’s expeditions, had met all
+the parties who had successfully navigated its waters.
+This not only included Galloway’s and Stone’s respective
+expeditions, which had made the entire trip, but included
+two other expeditions which began at Green River, Utah,
+and had gone through the canyons of the Colorado.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_4_4" href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>
+These were the Brown-Stanton expedition, which made
+a railroad survey through the canyons of the Colorado;
+and another commonly known as the Russell-Monnette
+expedition, two of the party making the complete trip,
+arriving at Needles after a voyage filled with adventure
+and many narrow escapes. Mr. Wolverton remarked
+that every one knew of those who had navigated the entire
+series of canyons, but that few people knew of those who
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113"></span>had been unsuccessful. He knew of seven parties that
+had failed to get through Cataract Canyon’s forty-one
+miles of rapids, with their boats, most of them never
+being heard of again.</p>
+
+<p>These unsuccessful parties were often miners or prospectors
+who wished to get into the comparatively flat
+country which began about fifty miles below the Junction
+of the Green and the Grand rivers. Here lay Glen
+Canyon, with 150 miles of quiet water. Nothing need
+be feared in this, or in the 120 miles of good boating from
+Green River, Utah, to the junction. Between these two
+points, however, lay Cataract Canyon, beginning at
+the junction of the two rivers. Judging by its unsavory
+record, Cataract Canyon was something to be feared.</p>
+
+<p>Among these parties who had made short trips on the
+river was one composed of two men. Phil Foote was
+a gambler, stage robber, and bad man in general. He
+had broken out of jail in Salt Lake City and, accompanied
+by another of similar character, stole a boat at Green
+River, Utah, and proceeded down the river. Soon after
+entering Cataract Canyon, they lost their boat and provisions.
+Finding a tent which had been washed down the
+river, they tore it into strips and constructed a raft out
+driftwood, tying the logs together with the strips of
+canvas. Days of hardship followed, and starvation stared
+them in the face; until finally Foote’s partner gave up,
+said he would drown himself. With an oath Foote
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114"></span>drew his revolver, saying he had enough of such cowardice
+and would save him the trouble. His companion then
+begged for his life, saying he would stick to the end, and
+they finally got through to the Hite ranch, which lay a
+short distance below. They were taken care of here,
+and terminated their voyage a short distance beyond,
+going out over land. Foote was afterwards shot and
+killed while holding up a stage in Nevada.</p>
+
+<p>The Hite ranch also proved to be a place of refuge for
+others, the sole survivors of two other parties who were
+wrecked, one person escaping on each occasion. Hite’s
+ranch, and Lee’s Ferry, 140 miles below Hite, had mail
+service. We had left instructions at the post-office to
+forward our mail to one or the other of these points.
+These were also the only places on our 425-mile run to
+Bright Angel Trail where we could expect to see any
+people, so we were informed. We were about to descend
+into what is, possibly, the least inhabited portion of the
+United States of America.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_114-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_114-fp.jpg" alt="The river curves into the photo on both the right and left sides. The photo was taken on the spit of land between the two curves. Beyond the curves rise three rock formations that cast similar shadows on the land below them.">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="allsmcap">THE CENTER OF THREE SYMMETRICAL FORMATIONS IN THE DOUBLE BOW KNOT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A party of civil engineers working here, joined us
+that evening at Wolverton’s home. A young man in
+the party asked us if we would consent to carry a letter
+through with us and mail it at our destination. He
+thought it would be an interesting souvenir for the person
+to whom it was addressed. We agreed to do our best,
+but would not guarantee delivery. The next morning
+two letters were given us to mail, and were accepted
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115"></span>with this one reservation. Before leaving Mr. Wolverton
+showed us his motor boat with much pardonable pride.
+On this boat he sometimes took small parties down to
+the beginning of the Colorado River, and up the Grand,
+a round trip of three hundred miles or more. The boat
+had never been taken down the Colorado for the simple
+reason that the rapids began almost immediately below
+the junction.</p>
+
+<p>Wolverton, while he had never been through the
+rapids in a boat, had followed the river on foot for several
+miles and was thoroughly familiar with their nature.
+On parting he remarked,</p>
+
+<p>“Well, boys, you are going to tackle a mighty hard
+proposition, but I’m sure you can make it if you are only
+careful. But look out and go easy.”</p>
+
+<p>Wolverton was no novice, speaking from much experience
+in bad water, and we were greatly impressed by
+what he had to say.</p>
+
+<p>Five uneventful days were spent in Labyrinth and
+Stillwater canyons, through which the Green peacefully
+completed its rather violent descent. In the upper
+end we usually found rough water in the canyons and
+quiet water in the open sections. Here at least were two
+canyons, varying from 300 feet at their beginning to 1300
+in depth, both without a rapid. The first of these was
+Labyrinth Canyon, so named from its elaborately winding
+course as well as its wonderful intricate system of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116"></span>dry, lateral canyons, and its reproduction in rock of architectural
+forms, castles, arches, and grottos; even animals
+and people were represented in every varying form.</p>
+
+<p>Our Sunday camp was beside what might be called
+a serpentine curve or series of loops in the river. This
+was at the centre of what is known as the Double Bow
+Knot, three rounded loops, very symmetrical in form, with
+an almost circular formation of flat-topped rock, a mile or
+more in diameter in the centre of each loop. A narrow
+neck of rock connects these formations to the main mesa, all
+being on the same level, about 700 feet above the river.
+The upper half of the rock walls was sheer; below was a
+steep boulder-covered slope. The centre formation is
+the largest and most perfect, being nearly two miles in
+diameter and almost round; so much so, that a very
+few minutes are necessary to climb over the narrow neck
+which connects this formation to the mesa. It took
+45 minutes of hard rowing on a good current to take us
+around this one loop. The neck is being rapidly eroded,
+two hundred feet having disappeared from the top, and
+at some distant day will doubtless disappear entirely,
+making a short cut for the river, and will leave a rounded
+island of rock standing seven hundred feet above the
+river. A bird’s-eye view of the three loops would compare
+well in shape to the little mechanical contrivance
+known as the “eye” in the combination of “hook and
+eye.” All women and many men will get a clear idea
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117"></span>the shape of the Double Bow Knot from this comparison.</p>
+
+<p>We recorded an interesting experiment with the thermometer
+at this camp, showing a great variety of temperatures,
+unbelievable almost to one who knows nothing
+of conditions in these semi-arid plateaus. A little
+ice had formed the night before. Under a clear sky the
+next day at noon, our thermometer recorded 54 degrees in
+the shade, but ran up to 102 degrees in the sun. At the
+same time the water in the river was 52 degrees Far.
+The effect of being deluged in ice-cold waves, then running
+into deep sunless canyons with a cold wind sweeping
+down from the snow on top, can be easier imagined than
+described. This is what we could expect to meet later.</p>
+
+<p>The colouring of the rocks varied greatly in many localities,
+a light red predominating. In some places the
+red rock was capped by a gray, flint-like limestone; in
+others this had disappeared, but underneath the red
+were regular strata of various-coloured rocks, pink,
+brown, light yellow, even blue and green being found in
+two or three sections.</p>
+
+<p>The forms of erosion were as varied as the rock itself,
+each different-coloured rock stratum presenting a different
+surface. In one place the surface was broken into rounded
+forms like the backs of a herd of elephants. In others
+we saw reproductions of images, carved by the drifting
+sands—a Diana, with uplifted arm, as large as the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118"></span>Goddess of Liberty; a Billiken on a throne with a hundred
+worshippers bowed around. Covered with nature-made
+ruins and magnificent rock structures, as this
+section is, it is not entirely without utility. It is a grazing
+country. Great numbers of contented cattle, white-faced,
+with red and white, or black and white patches of
+colour on their well-filled hides, were found in the open
+spaces between the sheer-walled cliffs. Dusty, well-beaten
+trails led down through these wide canyons,
+trails which undoubtedly gained the top of the level,
+rocky plateau a few miles back from the river. As is
+usual in a cattle country at the end of the summer season,
+the bunch-grass, close to the water supply—which in
+this case happened to the river—was nibbled close
+to the roots. The cattle only came here to drink, then
+travelled many miles, no doubt, to the better grazing on
+the upper plateaus. The sage, always gray, was grayer
+still, with dust raised by many passing herds. There
+was a band of range horses too, those splendid wild-eyed
+animals with kingly bearing, and wind-blown tails and
+manes, lean like a race-horse, strong-muscled and tough-sinewed,
+pawing and neighing, half defiant and half
+afraid of the sight of men, the only thing alive to which
+they pay tribute.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp98" id="i_118-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_118-fp.jpg" alt="A large mesa is beyond one shore of the river. Atop the mesa in the center is a rock formation that extends towards the sky. It is in front of a shorter rectangular formation giving the appearance of the top half of a cross.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE BUTTES OF THE CROSS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>It is a never ending source of wonder, to those unacquainted
+with the semi-arid country, how these animals
+can exist in a land which, to them, seems utterly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119"></span>destitute and barren. To many such, a meadow carpeted
+with blue grass or timothy is the only pasture on
+which grazing horses or grazing cattle can exist; the
+dried-out looking tufts of bunch-grass, scattered here
+and there or sheltered at the roots of the sage, mean
+nothing; the grama-grass hidden in the grease-wood
+is unnoticed or mistaken for a weed.</p>
+
+<p>But if the land was bare of verdure, the rock saved
+it from being monotonous. Varied in colour, the red rock
+predominated—blood-red at mid-day, orange-tinted
+at sunset, with gauze-like purple shadows, and with the
+delicate blue outlines always found in the Western distances;
+such a land could never be called uninteresting.</p>
+
+<p>The banks of the stream, here in the open, were always
+green. From an elevation they appeared like two emerald
+bands through a land of red, bordering a stream the tint
+of the aged pottery found along its shores. We were
+continually finding new trees and strange shrubs. Beside
+the cottonwoods and the willows there was an occasional
+wild-cherry tree; in the shrubs were the service-berry,
+and the squaw-berry, with sticky, acid-tasting fruit.
+The cacti were small, and excepting the prickly pear
+were confined nearly altogether to a small “pin-cushion”
+cactus, growing a little larger as we travelled
+south. And always in the mornings when out of the
+deep canyons the moist, pungent odour of the sage greeted
+our nostrils. It is inseparable from the West. There is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120"></span>no stuffy germ-laden air there, out in the sage; one is
+glad to live, simply to breathe it in and exhale and breathe
+again.</p>
+
+<p>In Stillwater Canyon the walls ran up to 1300 feet
+in height, a narrow canyon, with precipitous sides.
+Occasionally we could see great columns of rock standing
+on top of the mesa. Late one evening we saw some small
+cliff dwellings several hundred feet above the river, and
+a few crude ladders leaning against the cliff below the
+dwellings. A suitable camp could not be made here, or
+we would have stopped to examine them. The shores
+were slippery with mud and quicksands, and there was
+no fire-wood in sight. From here to the end of the canyons
+we would have to depend almost entirely on the drift-piles
+for fire-wood.</p>
+
+<p>A landing was finally made where a section of a cliff
+had toppled from above, affording a solid footing leading
+up to the higher bank. We judged from our maps that
+we were within a very few miles of the Colorado River.
+Here some footprints and signs of an old boat landing,
+apparently about a week old, were seen in the sand.
+This surprised us somewhat, as we had heard of no one
+coming down ahead of us.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">
+    CHAPTER XII
+    </h3>
+    <h4>COULD WE SUCCEED?
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">An</span> hour or two at the oars the next morning sufficed
+to bring us to the junction of the Green and the Grand
+rivers. We tied up our boats, and prepared to climb
+out on top, as we had a desire to see the view from above.
+A mile back on the Green we had noticed a sort of canyon
+or slope breaking down on the west side, affording a
+chance to reach the top. Loading ourselves with a
+light lunch, a full canteen, and our smaller cameras, we
+returned to this point and proceeded to climb out. Powell’s
+second expedition had climbed out at this same
+place; Wolverton had also mentioned the fact that he
+had been out; so we were quite sure of a successful attempt
+before we made the climb.</p>
+
+<p>The walk close to the river, over rocks and along
+narrow ledges, was hard work; the climb out was even
+more so. The contour maps which we carried credited
+these walls with 1300 feet height. If we had any doubt
+concerning the accuracy of this, it disappeared before we
+finally reached the top. What we saw, however, was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122"></span>worth all the discomfort we had undergone. Close to
+the top, three branches of dry, rock-bottomed gullies,
+carved from a gritty, homogeneous sandstone, spread
+out from the slope we had been climbing. These were
+less precipitous. Taking the extreme left-hand gully,
+we found the climb to the top much easier. At the very
+end we found an irregular hole a few feet in diameter,
+not a cave, but an opening left between some immense
+rocks, touching at the top, seemingly rolled together.</p>
+
+<p>Gazing down through this opening, we were amazed
+to find that we were directly above the Colorado itself.
+It was so confusing at first that we had to climb to the
+very top to see which river it was, I contending that it
+was the Green, until satisfied that I was mistaken. The
+view from the top was overwhelming, and words can
+hardly describe what we saw, or how we were affected
+by it.</p>
+
+<p>We found ourselves on top of an irregular plateau
+of solid rock, with no earth or vegetation save a few little
+bushes and some very small cedars in cracks in the rocks.
+Branching canyons, three or four hundred feet in depth,
+and great fissures ran down in this rock at intervals. Some
+were dark and crooked, and the bottom could not be seen.
+Between these cracks, the rock rounded like elephants’
+backs sloping steeply on either side. Some could be crossed,
+some could not. Others resembled a “maze,” the puzzle
+being how to get from one point to another a few
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123"></span>feet away. The rock was a sandstone and presented
+a rough surface affording a good hold, so there was little
+danger of slipping. We usually sat down and “inched”
+our way to the edge of the cracks, jumping across to
+little ledges when possible, always helping each other.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp68" id="i_122a-fp" style="max-width: 71.4375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_122a-fp.jpg" alt="The view is of the tops of the canyon walls. Crevaces are outlined by shadows. A man is standing towards the edge of one of the tops.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“THE LAND OF STANDING ROCKS WAS LIKE A MAZE.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp68" id="i_122b-fp" style="max-width: 70.875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_122b-fp.jpg" alt="The river curves from the lower right to the left of the photo. Canyon walls extend upwards on both sides of the river. On the left, an outcrop of rock extends over the canyon wall. A tiny figure of a man is atop the outcrop.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“ROCKS OVERHANGING THE COLORADO’S GORGE.”     NOTE FIGURE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The rock at the very edge of the main canyon overhung,
+in places 75 to 100 feet, and the great mass of
+gigantic boulders—sections of shattered cliffs—on the
+steep slope near the river gave evidence of a continual
+breaking away of these immense rocks.</p>
+
+<p>To the north, across the canyon up which we had
+climbed, were a great number of smooth formations,
+from one hundred to four hundred feet high, rounded on
+top in domes, reminding one of Bagdad and tales from the
+Arabian Nights. “The Land of Standing Rocks,” the
+Utes call it. The rock on which we stood was light
+gray or nearly white; the river walls at the base for a
+thousand feet above the river were dark red or chocolate-brown;
+while the tops of the formations above this level
+were a beautiful light red tint.</p>
+
+<p>But there were other wonders. On the south side
+of the Colorado’s gorge, miles away, were great spires,
+pointing heavenward, singly and in groups, looking like
+a city of churches. Beyond the spires were the Blue
+Mountains, to the east the hazy LaSalle range, and
+nearest of all on the west just north of the Colorado lay
+the snow-covered peaks of the Henry Mountains. Directly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124"></span>below us was the Colorado River, muddy, swirling,
+and forbidding. A mile away boomed a rapid, beyond
+that was another, then the river was lost to view.</p>
+
+<p>Standing on the brink of all this desolation, it is
+small wonder if we recalled the accounts of the disasters
+which had overtaken so many others in the canyon
+below us. Many who had escaped the water had climbed
+out on to this death trap, as it had proven to be for them,
+some to perish of thirst and starvation, a few to stagger
+into the ranch below the canyon, a week or more after
+they had escaped from the water. Small wonder that
+some of these had lost their reason. We could only
+conjecture at the fate of the party whose wrecked boat
+had been found by the Stone expedition, a few miles below
+this place, with their tracks still fresh in the sand. No
+trace of them was ever found.</p>
+
+<p>For the first time it began to dawn on us that we
+might have tackled a job beyond our power to complete.
+Most of the parties which had safely completed the trip
+were composed of several men, adding much to the safety
+of the expedition, as a whole. Others had boats much
+lighter than ours, a great help in many respects. Speaking
+for myself, I was just a little faint-hearted, and not
+a little overawed as we prepared to return to the boats.</p>
+
+<p>While returning, we saw evidences of ancient Indians—some
+broken arrow-heads, and pottery also, and a
+small cliff ruin under a shelving rock.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp70" id="i_124-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_124-fp.jpg" alt="A tall canyon wall in the shadows dominates the left half of the photo. A man stands on top of the wall. On the right side of the photo, other canyon walls are sunlit. The river, mostly in shadows, curves through these walls at the base of the image.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE GREEN RIVER. NOTE FIGURE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125"></span></p>
+
+<p>What could an Indian find here to interest him!
+We had found neither bird, nor rabbit; not even a lizard
+in the Land of Standing Rocks. Perhaps they were sun
+worshippers, and wanted an unobstructed view of the
+eastern sky. That at least could be had, in unrivalled
+grandeur, here above the Rio Colorado.</p>
+
+<p>The shadows were beginning to lengthen when we
+finally reached our boats at the junction. Camp was
+made under a large weeping willow tree, the only tree
+of its kind we remembered having seen on the journey.</p>
+
+<p>While Emery prepared a hasty meal I made a few
+arrangements for embarking on the Colorado River the
+next morning. We were prepared to bid farewell to
+the Green River—the stream that had served us so
+well. In spite of our trials, even in the upper canyons,
+we had found much enjoyment in our passage through its
+strange and beautiful surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>From a scenic point of view the canyons of the Green
+River, with their wonderful rock formations and stupendous
+gorges, are second only to those of the Colorado itself.
+It is strange they are so little known, when one considers
+the comparative ease with which these canyons on the
+lower end can be reached. Some day perhaps, surfeited
+globe-trotters, after having tired of commonplace scenery
+and foreign lands, will learn what a wonderful region
+this is, here on the lower end of the Green River.</p>
+
+<p>Then no doubt, Wolverton, or others with similar
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126"></span>outfits, will find a steady stream of sight-seers anxious
+to take the motor boat ride down to this point, and up
+to Moab, Utah, a little Mormon town on the Grand River.
+A short ride by automobile from Moab to the D. &amp; R. G.
+railway would complete a most wonderful journey; then
+the transcontinental journey could be resumed.</p>
+
+<p>So I mused, as I contrived an arrangement of iron
+hooks and oak sticks to hold on a hatch cover, from which
+all the thumb screws had been lost. More than likely
+my dream of a line of sight-seeing motor boats will be
+long deferred; or they may even meet the fate of Brown’s
+and Stanton’s plans for a railroad down these gorges.</p>
+
+<p>As a reminder of the fate which overtakes so many
+of our feeble plans, we found a record of Stanton’s survey
+on a fallen boulder, an inscription reading “A 81 + 50,
+Sta. D.C.C. &amp; P.R.R.,” the abbreviations standing
+for Denver, Colorado Canyons, and Pacific Railroad.
+It is possible that the hands that chiselled the inscription
+belonged to one of the three men who were afterwards
+drowned in Marble Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>Emery—being very practical—interrupted my revery
+and plans for future sight-seers by announcing supper.
+The meal was limited in variety, but generous in
+quantity, and consisted of a dried-beef stew, fried potatoes,
+and cocoa. A satisfied interior soon dispelled all our
+previous apprehensiveness. We decided not to run our
+rapids before we came to them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127"></span></p>
+
+<p>The water still gave indications of being higher than
+low-water mark, although it was falling fast on the
+Green River. Each morning, for three days previous
+to our arrival at the junction, we would find the water
+about six inches lower than the stage of the evening before.
+Strange to say, we gained on the water with each
+day’s rowing, until we had almost overtaken the stage
+of water we had lost during the night. More than likely
+we would have all the water we needed under the new
+conditions which were before us.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning with the Colorado River, we made our
+journals much more complete in some ways, giving all
+the large rapids a number and describing many of them
+in detail. This was done, not only for our own satisfaction,
+but for the purpose of comparison with others who
+had gone through, for many of these rapids have histories.</p>
+
+<p>It was often a question, when on the Green River,
+where to draw the line when counting a rapid; this was
+less difficult when on the Colorado. While the descent
+was about the same as in some of the rapids above, the
+increased volume of water made them look and act
+decidedly different. We drew the line, when counting a
+rapid, at a descent having a decided agitation of the water,
+hidden rocks, or swift descent and with an eddy or whirlpool
+below. Major Powell considered that many of
+these drops in the next canyon were above the ordinary
+rapid, hence the name, Cataract Canyon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128"></span></p>
+
+<p>At one of the camps below Green River, Utah, my
+boat had been christened the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>, by painting the
+name on the bow. After leaving the Green we usually
+referred to the boats by their respective names, Emery
+being in the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>, I in the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_128-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_128-fp.jpg" alt="The river fills the bottom third of the image, curving between two low canyon walls. The mouth of another river joins at the lower left corner. On the lower right is a long, narrow sand beach lined with trees. Two boats are tiny dots on this beach.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO RIVERS. THE GRAND RIVER IS ON THE RIGHT. NOTE BOATS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">
+    CHAPTER XIII
+    </h3>
+    <h4>A COMPANION VOYAGER
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Thursday</span> morning, October the 26th, found Emery
+feeling very poorly, but insisting on going ahead with
+our day’s work, so Camp No. 34 was soon behind us.
+We were embarked on a new stream, flowing west-southwest,
+with a body of water ten times the size of that
+which we had found in the upper canyons of the Green.
+Our sixteen-foot boats looked quite small when compared
+with the united currents of the Green and the Grand
+rivers. The Colorado River must have been about
+350 feet wide here just below the junction, with a three-mile
+current, and possibly twenty-five feet deep, although
+this is only a guess. The Grand River appeared to be the
+higher of the two streams, and had a decidedly red colour,
+as though a recent storm was being carried down its
+gorges; while the colour of the Green was more of a coffee
+colour—coffee with a little cream in it.</p>
+
+<p>A fourth of a mile below the junction the two currents
+began to mix, with a great ado about it, with small whirlpools
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130"></span>and swift eddies, and sudden outbursts from beneath,
+as though a strangled current was struggling to escape
+from the weight which overpowered it. The boats were
+twisted this way and that, and hard rowing was necessary
+to carry us down to the steadied current, and to the
+first rapid, which we could hear when yet far above it.</p>
+
+<p>Soon we were running rapids again, and getting a
+lot of sport out of it. There were some rocks, but there
+was water enough so that these could be avoided. If one
+channel did not suit us, we took another, and although we
+were drenched in every rapid, and the cockpit was half
+filled each time, it was not cold enough to cause us any
+great discomfort, and we bailed out at the end of each
+rapid, then hurried on to tackle the next. Each of these
+rapids was from a fourth to a third of a mile in length.
+The average was at least one big rapid to the mile. When
+No. 5 was reached we paused a little longer, and looked
+it over more carefully than we had the others. It had
+a short, quick descent, then a long line of white-topped
+waves, with a big whirlpool on the right. There were
+numerous rocks which would take careful work to avoid.
+The waves were big,—big enough for a motion picture,—so
+Emery remained on shore with both the motion-picture
+camera and the 8 × 10 plate camera in position,
+ready to take the picture, while I ran my boat.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of this rapid we saw footprints in the
+sand, but not made with the same shoe as that which
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131"></span>we had noticed above the junction. We had also seen
+signs of a camp, and some fishes’ heads above this point,
+and what we took to be a dog’s track along the shore.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the next rapid we saw them again,
+but on opposite side of the river, and could see where
+boat had been pulled up on the sand. This next rapid
+was almost as bad as the one above it, but with a longer
+descent, instead of one abrupt drop. The following
+rapid was so close that we continued along the shore to
+look it over at the same time, saving a stop between the
+two rapids. The shores were strewn with a litter of
+gigantic boulders—fallen sections of the overhanging
+cliffs. We found more of this in Cataract Canyon than
+in any of the canyons above. This was partly responsible
+for the violence of the rapids, although the descent of
+the river would make rough water even if there were no
+boulders. Working back along the shore, we were suddenly
+electrified into quick action by seeing the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>
+come floating down the river, close to the shore and almost
+on the rapid. Emery was a short distance ahead and
+ran for the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>; I caught up a long pole and got on a
+projecting rock, hoping I might steer her in. She passed
+me, and was soon in the midst of the rapid before Emery
+had launched the boat. Three gigantic boulders extended
+above the water about fifty feet from shore, with a very
+crooked channel between. Down toward these boulders
+came the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>, plunging like a thing possessed. How it was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132"></span>done I could never tell, but she passed through the crooked
+channel without once touching, and continued over the
+rapid. Meanwhile Emery had run the other side and
+had gained on the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>, but only caught her when close
+to the next rapid; so he turned her loose and came to
+the shore for me.</p>
+
+<p>Emery had not been feeling his best and I advised
+him to remain on shore while I took the boat. As we
+made the change we again observed the boat, bounding
+through the next rapid, whirling on the tops of the waves
+as though in the hands of a superhuman juggler. I
+managed to overtake her in a whirlpool below the rapid,
+and came to shore for her captain. He was nearly exhausted
+with his efforts; still he insisted on continuing.
+A few miles below we saw some ducks, and shot at
+them with a revolver. But the ducks flew disdainfully
+away, and landed in the pool below.</p>
+
+<p>By 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we were twelve miles below the junction,
+a very good day’s run considering the kind of water we
+were travelling on, and the amount of time we spent on
+the shore. We had just run our twelfth rapid, and were
+turning the boats around, when we saw a man back
+from the shore working over a pile of boxes which he had
+covered with a piece of canvas. A boat was tied to
+the water’s edge. We called to him, and he answered,
+but did not seem nearly as much interested in seeing
+companion travellers as we were, and proceeded with his
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133"></span>work. We landed, and, to save time, introduced ourselves,
+as there seemed to be a certain aloofness in his
+manner. He gave the name of Smith—with some hesitation,
+we thought.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_132a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_132a-fp.jpg" alt="Photo taken atop a canyon wall. The river curls upwards from the lower left. The right side shows the rocky tops of the canyon walls with some stunted trees.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LOOKING WEST INTO CATARACT CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_132b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_132b-fp.jpg" alt="A man, holding an oar, stands at the stern of an open rowboat. The prow of the boat rests on a rocky shoreline. The placid river fills the lower half of the photo. Hills disappear into the distant horizon.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CHARLES SMITH AND HIS BOAT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Smith was about medium size, but looked tough and
+wiry; he had a sandy complexion, with light hair and
+mustache. He had lost one eye, the other was that
+light gray colour that is usually associated with indomitable
+nerve. He had a shrewd, rather humorous expression,
+and gave one the impression of being very capable.
+Dressed in a neat whipcord suit, wearing light shoes and
+a carefully tied tie, recently shaved—a luxury we
+had denied ourselves, all this time—he was certainly
+an interesting character to meet in this out-of-the-way
+place. We should judge he was a little over forty years
+old; but whether prospector, trapper, or explorer it was
+hard to say. Some coyote skins, drying on a rock, would
+give one the impression that he was the second, with a
+touch of the latter thrown in. These coyotes were
+responsible for the tracks we had seen, and had mistaken
+for dog tracks, but of all the canyons we had
+seen he was in the last place where we would expect to
+find a trapper. The coyotes evidently reached the
+river gorge through side canyons on the left, where we
+had seen signs of ancient trails. Apart from that there
+was no sign of animal life. With the last of the wooded
+canyons, the signs of beaver had disappeared. There
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134"></span>were a few otter tracks, but they are wily fellows, and
+are seldom trapped. While there are laws against
+the trapping of beaver, they seldom prevent the trappers
+from taking them when they get the chance; they are
+only a little more wary of strangers; the thought occurred
+to us that this trapper may have secured some beaver in
+the open sections above, and mistrusted us for this
+reason.</p>
+
+<p>It was too late to go any farther that evening, so we
+camped a hundred yards below him, close to where our
+boats were pulled out. At this place there was a long,
+wide flat in the canyon, with plenty of driftwood, so we
+saw no reason why we should quarrel with our neighbour.
+Smith accepted our invitation to supper, stating that he
+had just eaten before we arrived, but enjoyed some pineapple
+which we had kept for some special occasion, and
+which was served for dessert.</p>
+
+<p>Over the table we became better acquainted, and,
+after learning what we were doing, he recounted his experiences.
+He told us he had left Green River, Utah, a month
+before, and had been trapping as he came along. He
+knew there was a canyon, and some rapids below, but
+had no idea they were so bad, and thought they were
+about ended. No one had warned him, for he had told
+no one what he intended doing. He had bought an old
+water-logged boat that had been built by Galloway, and
+seeing the uselessness of trying to run the rapids with it,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135"></span>worked it down along the shores by holding it with
+a light chain. Once he had been pulled into the river,
+twice the boat had been upset, and he was just about
+dried out from the last spill when we arrived. He had
+heard us shooting at the ducks, so rather expected company—this
+in brief was his amazing story.</p>
+
+<p>We were surprised when we examined the boat closely.
+It had been well made, but was so old and rotten that it
+seemed ready to fall to pieces. In places, the nail heads
+had pulled through the boards. It was entirely open
+on top—a great risk in such water. His boxes were tied
+in to prevent loss. These boxes were now piled on the
+shore, with a large canvas thrown over them. This
+canvas, fastened at the top and sloping to the ground,
+served him for a tent; his bed was underneath. A pair
+of high-topped boots, placed bottom up over two sticks,
+stuck in the sand beside the camp-fire, explained the different
+tracks we had seen above.</p>
+
+<p>Smith evidently was not much alarmed over his
+situation. About the only thing that seemed to bother
+him was the fact that his smoking tobacco had been wet
+several times. That evening we got out our guide-book—Dellenbaugh’s
+“A Canyon Voyage”—and tried to
+give him an idea of what was ahead. The walls ahead
+grew higher, and closer together; sometimes there was a
+shore on one side, sometimes on the other, at one or two
+places there was no shore on either side, and the rapids
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136"></span>continued to get worse,—so we gathered from Dellenbaugh’s
+experience. Above this point there were several
+places where one could climb out,—we had even seen
+signs of ancient trails in two side canyons,—below here
+few such places existed.</p>
+
+<p>Smith listened to all this attentively, then smiled
+and said “I guess there will be some way through.”
+After a short visit he returned to his camp. We noticed
+that he slept on his gun,—to keep it dry, no doubt, for
+it looked like rain.</p>
+
+<p>Morning found us very sorry that we had not erected
+our tent, for it rained nearly all night, but when once in
+our beds it was a question which was preferable; to get
+out in the rain and put up our tent, or remain in our
+comfortable beds. We remained where we were. As we
+prepared to leave, we offered Smith a chance to accompany
+us through Cataract Canyon, telling him that we
+would help him with his boat until the quiet water of
+Glen Canyon was reached. He declined the opportunity,
+saying that he would rather travel slowly and do what
+trapping he could. He welcomed a chance to take a
+ride on the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>, however. We took him over two
+small rapids, and gave him an insight into our method
+of avoiding the dangers. He was very enthusiastic about
+it. On reaching the next rapid we all concluded it would
+be very unwise to carry any passengers, for it was violent
+water, so he got out on the shore.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_136a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_136a-fp.jpg" alt="Water rushes around rocks in the middle of the river. A sloped canyon wall is on the left, a more vertical wall is on the right.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A NARROW CHANNEL AT RAPID NO. 22.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="i_136b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_136b-fp.jpg" alt="A tent is erected between large boulders and a flat piece of shoreline. Near the entry to the tent, a man holds a photographic plate between his hands. Pieces of cloth hang on a guy-wire from the top of the tent.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">DEVELOPING TESTS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137"></span></p>
+
+<p>Smith had once seen some moving pictures of Japanese
+shooting rapids, but he said they were nothing compared
+to these, remarking that a bronco could hardly buck any
+harder. The next rapid was just as bad, Rapid No. 14
+for Cataract Canyon, and Smith helped us secure a motion
+picture. Then he prepared to return to his camp.
+Just before leaving he explained rather apologetically,
+that ranchers, or others, were usually very unfriendly to
+a stranger coming into their section of the country.
+He had heard us shooting at the ducks and he imagined
+we belonged in some of the side canyons or on the top.
+This explained his puzzling attitude at our first meeting.
+If he had any beaver skins in his pack this would make
+him even more suspicious of strangers. We wished him
+nothing but the best of luck, and were good friends when
+we parted. His decision to make the trip alone, poorly
+equipped as he was, seemed like suicide to us. He promised
+to write to us if he got out, and with a final wave
+of the hand we left him on the shore.</p>
+
+<p>The rapid just passed was possibly the scene of the
+disaster discovered by the Stone expedition. They
+found a clumsy boat close to the shore, jammed in a
+mass of rocks, smashed and abandoned. There were
+tracks of three people in the sand, one track being a
+boy’s. A coat was left on the shore. The tracks disappeared
+up a box canyon. Mr. Stone corresponded with
+the only settlements in all that region, few in number,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138"></span>and far distant; but nothing was ever heard of them.
+Two other parties have left Green River, Utah, within
+a year of this find and disappeared in like manner. This seemed
+to be the usual result of these attempts. In
+nearly every case they have started in boats that are
+entirely unfitted for rough water, and, seemingly without any
+knowledge of the real danger ahead, try to follow where
+others, properly equipped, have gone through.</p>
+
+<p>What a day of excitement that was! We always
+thought we needed a certain amount of thrills to make
+life sufficiently interesting for us. In a few hours’ time,
+in the central portion of Cataract Canyon, we experienced
+nearly enough thrills to last us a lifetime. In
+one or two of the upper canyons we thought we were
+running rapids. Now we were learning what rapids
+really were. No sooner were we through one than another
+presented itself. At each of them we climbed along
+the boulder-strewn shores—the lower slopes growing
+steeper, the walls above towering higher—clear to the
+end of the rapid. Looking upstream we could pick
+out the submerged rocks hidden in the muddy water,
+and looking like an innocent wave from above. Twice
+we had picked out channels in sharp drops, after carefully
+observing their actions and deciding they were
+free from obstructions, when suddenly the waves would
+part for an instant and disclose a hidden rock—in one
+case as sharp as a hound’s tooth—sure disaster if we ever
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139"></span>struck it. As soon as we had decided on a channel we
+would lose no time in getting back to our boats and running
+it, for we could feel our courage oozing from our
+finger tips with each second’s delay. Time and again
+we got through just by a scratch. Success bred confidence;
+I distinctly remember feeling that water alone
+would not upset the boat; that it would take a collision
+with a rock to do it. And each time we got through.
+Twice I almost had reason to reverse my impression of
+the power of water. First the stern rose up in front of
+me, as if squaring off at the tops of the cliffs, then descended,
+until it seemed to be trying to plumb the depths
+of the river. The waves, rolling over me, almost knocked
+me out of the boat, I lost my hold on the oars and grabbed
+the sides of the boat; then, regaining the oars, I finished
+the run by pulling with the bow headed downstream,
+for the boat had “swapped ends” in the interval, and
+was heavy with about three barrels of water in the cockpit.
+I bailed out with a grocery box, kept under the seat
+for that purpose. It had been growing quite cold, and
+Emery’s indisposition—or what was really acute indigestion—had
+weakened him for the past two days, but
+he pluckily declined to stop. I was soaked with my last
+immersion and chilled with the wind, so concluded there
+was no use having him go through the same experience
+and I ran his boat while he made a picture. We were
+both ready to camp then, but there was no suitable place
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140"></span>and we had to push on to the next rapid. On looking
+it over we almost gave up our intention of running it.
+It was about a fourth of a mile long; a mass of submerged
+rocks extended entirely across the river; the entire
+rapid seemed impossible. We finally concluded it might
+be run by shooting up, stern first, on a sloping rock near
+the shore, then return as the current recoiled and ran
+back, dividing on either side of the rock. The only
+clear channel was one about twelve feet wide, between
+this rock and the shore. A projecting shore above prevented
+a direct entrance to this channel.</p>
+
+<p>We threw logs in and watched their action. In each
+case they paused when within five or six feet of the top
+of the slope, then returned with the current, whirled
+back to the side and shot through close to the shore.
+We planned to go through as close together as possible.
+Emery was ready first, I held back in a protecting pool,
+waiting for him to get out of the way. He got his position,
+facing stern downstream, gave the slightest shove
+forward, and the released boat whizzed down for fifty
+feet and ran up on the rock. She paused a moment, as
+the water prepared to return. He gave two quick pulls,
+shooting back again, slightly to the right, until he struck
+the narrow channel, then reversed his course and went
+through stern first exactly as we had planned it. The
+square stern, buoyed up by the air-chamber, lifted the
+boat out of the resulting wave as he struck the bottom of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141"></span>the descent. This much of the rapid had only taken a
+few seconds.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_140-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_140-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands on large rocks next to the river. A huge boulder and other rocks fill the river. The water rushes through a chute, dropping perhaps ten feet.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p><span class="allsmcap">RAPID</span> <span class="allsmcap">NO. 22 IN CATARACT CANYON</span>.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>I followed at once, but was not so fortunate. The
+<i class="shipname">Defiance</i> was carried to the left side, where some water
+dropped over the side of the rock, instead of reversing.
+I pulled frantically, seeing visions, meanwhile, of the
+boat and myself being toppled off the side of the rock,
+into the boulders and waves below. My rowing had no
+effect whatever, but the boat was grabbed by the returning
+wave and shot, as if from a catapult, back and
+around to the right, through the sloping narrow channel,—my
+returning course describing a half circle. Instead
+of rising, the pointed bow cut down into the waves until
+the water was on my shoulders. Emery turned his
+head for an instant to see what success I was having, and
+his boat was thrown on to a rock close to the shore. I
+passed him and landed, just before going into the next
+rapid. I then went back and helped him off the rock,
+and he continued his course over the leaping waves. He
+broke a rowlock before he landed, and had to use the
+substitute we had hung beside it.</p>
+
+<p>We found a good spot for a camp just above the
+next rapid. Our tent was stretched in front of a large
+boulder. A large pile of driftwood gave us all the fuel
+needed, and we soon had a big fire going and our wet
+clothes steaming on the line.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_142"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">
+    CHAPTER XIV
+</h3>
+  <h4>A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS
+  </h4>
+<p><span class="smcap">An</span> hour or so after making our camp, we began to
+doubt the wisdom of our choice of a location, for a downpour
+of rain threatened to send a stream of water under
+the tent. The stream was easily turned aside, while a
+door and numerous boards found in the drift pile, made
+a very good floor for the tent and lifted our sleeping
+bags off the wet sand. We had little trouble in this section
+to find sufficient driftwood for fires. The pile at
+this camp was enormous, and had evidently been gathering
+for years. Some of it, we could be sure, was recent,
+for a large pumpkin was found deposited in the drift
+pile twenty-five feet above the low-water stage on which
+we were travelling. This pumpkin, of course, could only
+have come down on the flood that had preceded us.</p>
+
+<p>What a mixture of curios some of those drift piles
+were, and what a great stretch of country they represented!
+The rivers, unsatisfied with washing away the
+fertile soil of the upper country, had levied a greedy toll
+on the homes along their banks, as well. Almost everything
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143"></span>
+that would float, belonging to a home, could be
+found in some of them. There were pieces of furniture
+and toilet articles, children’s toys and harness, several
+smashed boats had been seen, and bloated cattle as well.
+    A short distance above this camp we had found two cans
+of white paint, carefully placed on top of a big rock above
+the high-water mark, by some previous voyager.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_5_5" href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> The
+boats were beginning to show the effect of hard usage,
+so we concluded to take the paint along. At another
+point, this same day, we found a corked bottle containing
+a faded note, undated, requesting the finder to write to
+a certain lady in Delta, Colorado. A note in my journal,
+beneath a record of this find, reads: “Aha! A romance
+at last!” Judging by the appearance of the note it
+might have been thrown in many years before. Delta,
+we knew, was on the Gunnison River, a tributary of the
+Grand River. The bottle must have travelled over two
+hundred miles to reach this spot.</p>
+
+<p>A letter which I sent out later brought a prompt
+answer, with the information that this bottle and four
+others with similar notes were set adrift by the writer
+and four of her schoolmates, nearly two years before.
+An agreement was made that the one first receiving an
+answer was to treat the others to a dinner. Our find
+was the second, so this young lady was a guest instead
+of the host.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144"></span></p>
+
+<p>Emery took but little interest in our camp arrangements
+this evening, and went to bed as soon as it was
+possible for him to do so. He said little, but he was
+very weak, and I could tell from his drawn face that he
+was suffering, and knew that it was nothing but nervous
+energy that kept him at his work—that, and a promise
+which he had made to build a fire, within a stated time
+now less than two weeks away, in Bright Angel Creek
+Canyon, nearly three hundred miles below this camp,
+a signal to his wife and baby that he would be home
+the next day. I was worried about his condition and I
+feared a fever or pneumonia. For two or three days he
+had not been himself. It was one thing to battle with
+the river when well and strong; it would be decidedly
+different if one of us became seriously ill.</p>
+
+<p>For the first time in all our experiences together,
+where determination and skill seemed necessary to
+success, I had taken the lead during the past two
+days, feeling that my greater weight and strength,
+perhaps, would help me pull out of danger where
+he might fail. In two or three rapids I felt sure
+he did not have the strength to pull away from certain
+places that would smash the boats. After running the
+    <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> through these rapids I suggested to him that
+he would take a picture while I brought the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> down.
+He would stay near the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>, ready to aid in case of
+emergency. After being once through a rapid I found it
+quite a simple matter to run the second boat, and the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145"></span>
+knowledge that he would save me in case of an upset
+greatly lessened any danger that might have existed.
+He was too nervous to sleep, and asked me to take
+a last look at the boats before going to bed. They
+were pulled well up on the shore and securely tied, I
+found, so that it would take a flood to tear them loose.
+The rain, which had stopped for a while, began again as
+    I rolled into the blankets; the fire, fed with great cottonwood
+logs, threw ghostly shadows on the cliffs which
+towered above us, and sputtered in the rain but refused
+to be drowned; while the roar of rapids, Nos. 22 and
+    23 combined, thundered and reverberated from wall to
+wall, and finally lulled us to sleep.</p>
+
+    <figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_144a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_144a-fp.jpg" alt="The river churns over boulders mid-stream. Emery in the 'Edith' is a small figure amid the moving water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE “EDITH” IN A CATARACT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+    <figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_144b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_144b-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands on a large rock at the shoreline, watching torrents of water flow downstream. Canyon walls rise on both sides of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A SEVENTY-FIVE FOOT DROP IN THREE-FOURTHS OF A MILE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The rain continued all night, but the weather cleared
+in the morning. Emery felt much the same as he had
+the day before, so we kept the same camp that day. We
+took some pictures, and made a few test developments,
+hanging the dark-room, or tent, inside the other tent for
+want of a better place to tie to.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, October the 29th, we remained at the same
+place, and by evening were both greatly benefited by
+the rest. On Monday morning we packed up again,
+leaving only the moving-picture camera out, and pictured
+each other, alternately, as the boats made the
+plunge over the steep descent in rapid No. 23. Both
+boats disappeared from sight on two or three occasions
+in this rapid and emerged nearly filled with water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146"></span></p>
+
+<p>The section just passed is credited with the greatest
+descent on the rivers, a fall of 75 feet in ¾ of a mile.
+This includes the three rapids: Nos. 21, 22, and 23.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding on our way the canyon narrowed, going
+up almost sheer to a height of 2500 feet or over. Segregated
+spires, with castle-like tops, stood out from the
+upper walls. The rapids, or cataracts, compared well
+with those passed above, connected in some instances
+by swift-rushing water instead of the quiet pools which
+were usually found between the rapids. We ran ten
+rapids this day, but several of these which were counted
+as one were a series of two or three rapids, which might
+be one in high water. All had a shore on one side or the
+other, but caution was imperative when crossing in the
+swift water between the rapids. A mishap here meant
+destruction. We figured that we had travelled about
+ten miles for this day’s run.</p>
+
+<p>The menacing walls continued to go higher with the
+next day’s travel, until they reached a height of 2700
+feet. The left wall was so sheer that it almost
+seemed to overhang. The little vegetation which we
+had found on the lower slope gradually disappeared as
+the walls grew steeper, but a few scattered shrubs, sage-brush,
+and an occasional juniper grew on the rocky sides,
+or in one or two side canyons which entered from the
+south. These side canyons had the appearance of running
+back for considerable distances, but we did not explore
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147"></span>
+any of them and could tell very little about them
+from the river.</p>
+
+<p>After our noon lunch this day, in order to keep our
+minds from dwelling too much on the rather depressing
+surroundings, we proposed having a little sport. On two
+or three occasions we had made motion pictures from the
+deck of the boats as we rowed in the quiet water; here
+we proposed taking a picture from the boats as we went
+over the rapids. The two boats were fastened stern
+to stern, so that the rowing would be done from the first
+boat. My brother sat on the bow behind with the
+motion-picture camera in front of him, holding it down
+with his chin, his legs clinging to the sides of the boat,
+with his left hand clutching at the hatch cover, and with
+his right hand free to turn the crank. In this way we
+passed over two small rapids. After that one experience
+we never tried it in a large rapid. As Smith had said a
+few days before the boat bucked like a broncho, and
+Emery had a great deal of difficulty to stay with the
+boat, to say nothing of taking a picture. Once or twice
+he was nearly unseated but pluckily hung on and kept
+turning away at the crank when it looked as if he and
+the camera would be dumped into the river.</p>
+
+<p>At one point in the lower end of Cataract Canyon we
+saw the name and date A. G. Turner, ’07. Below this,
+close to the end of the canyon, were some ruins of cliff
+dwellings, and a ladder made by white men, placed
+against the walls below the ruins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148"></span></p>
+
+<p>On reaching a very deep, narrow canyon entering
+from the south, locally known as Dark Canyon, we knew
+that we were nearing the end of the rapids in Cataract
+Canyon. Dark Canyon extends a great distance back
+into the country, heading in the mountains we had seen
+to the south, when we climbed out at the junction of
+the Green and the Grand. Pine cones and other growths
+entirely foreign to the growth of the desert region were
+found near its mouth. A flood had recently filled the
+bottom of this narrow canyon to a depth of several
+feet, but the water had settled down again and left a
+little stream of clear water running through the boulders.
+The rapid at the end of this canyon was one
+of the worst of the entire series, and had been the
+scene of more than one fatality, we had been told. It
+had a very difficult approach and swung against the
+right wall, then the water was turned abruptly to the
+left by a great pile of fallen boulders. The cresting
+waves looked more like breakers of the ocean than
+anything we had seen on the river.</p>
+
+<p>We each had a good scare as we ran this rapid.
+Emery was completely hidden from my view, he was
+nearly strangled and blinded by the waves for a few
+seconds while struggling in the maelstrom; the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>
+was dropped directly on top of a rock in the middle
+of this rapid, then lifted on the next wave. I also
+had a thrilling experience but avoided the rock. In
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149"></span>
+the lower part of the rapid a rowlock pulled apart;
+and to prevent the boat from turning sideways in the
+rapid, I threw up my knee, holding the oar against it
+for a lever until I was in quieter water, and could get
+the other rowlock in position.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp99" id="i_148-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_148-fp.jpg" alt="The Kolb boats are tied to a rocky shore in the canyon. A man is in one of the boats. Strewn among the large rocks are remnants of equipment washed up or left behind by a prior explorer.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CAMP IN THE HEART OF CATARACT CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Separated from my brother in this instance, I had
+an opportunity to see the man and water conflict, with a
+perspective much as it would have appeared to a spectator
+happening on the scene. I was out of the heat of
+the battle. The excitement and indifference to danger
+that comes with a hand-to-hand grapple was gone. I
+heard the roar of the rapid; a roar so often heard that
+we forgot it was there. I saw the gloom of the great
+gorge, and the towering, sinister shafts of rock, weakened
+with cracks, waiting for the moment that would send
+them crashing to the bottom. I saw the mad, wild water
+hurled at the curving wall. Jagged rocks, like the
+bared fangs of some dream-monster, appeared now and
+then in the leaping, tumbling waves. Then down
+toward the turmoil—dwarfed to nothingness by the
+magnitude of the walls—sped the tiny shell-like boat,
+running smoothly like a racing machine! There was
+no rowing. The oar-blades were tipped high to avoid
+loss in the first comber; then the boat was buried in
+foam, and staggered through on the other side. It
+was buffeted here and there, now covered with a ton of
+water, now topping a ten-foot wave. Like a skilled
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150"></span>
+boxer—quick of eye, and ready to seize any temporary
+advantage—the oarsman shot in his oars for two quick
+strokes, to straighten the boat with the current or dodge
+a threatening boulder; then covered by lifting his oars
+and ducking his head as a brown flood rolled over him.
+Time and again the manœuvre was repeated: now here,
+now there. One would think the chances were about
+one to a hundred that he would get through. But by
+some sort of a system, undoubtedly aided, many times, by
+good luck, the man and his boat won to land.</p>
+
+<p>After running a small rapid, we came to another, in
+the centre of which was an island,—the last rapid in
+Cataract Canyon. While not as bad as the one
+at Dark Canyon it was rather difficult, and at
+this point we found no shore on either side. The
+south side was rendered impassable by great boulders,
+much higher than the river level, which were scattered
+through the channel. The opposite channel began much
+like the rapid at Dark Canyon, sweeping under the wall
+until turned by a bend and many fallen rocks below the
+end of the island, then crossed with a line of cresting
+waves to the opposite side, where it was joined by the
+other stream, and the left wall was swept clean in like
+manner. We ran it by letting our boats drop into the
+stream, but pulled away from the wall and kept close to
+the island, then when its end was reached crossed the
+ridge of waves and pulled for the right-hand shore. In
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151"></span>
+such rapids as this we often found the line of waves in
+the swift-rushing centre to be several feet higher than the
+water along the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Then our thoughts reverted to Smith. What would
+he do when he came to this rapid? The only escape was
+a narrow sloping ledge on the right side, beginning close
+to the water some distance above the rapid, reaching a
+height of sixty or seventy feet above the water at the
+lower end, while a descent could be made to the river
+some distance below here. It would be possible for him to
+climb over this with his provisions, but the idea of taking
+his boat up there was entirely out of the question, and,
+poorly equipped as he was, an attempt to run it would
+surely end in disaster. The breaking of an oar, the loss
+of a rowlock, or the slightest knock of his rotten boat
+against a rock, and Smith’s fate would be similar to those
+others whose bones lay buried in the sands.</p>
+
+<p>In the next four miles we had no more rapids, but had
+some fine travelling on a very swift river. It was getting
+dusk, but we pulled away, for just ahead of us was the
+end of Cataract Canyon. We camped by a large side
+canyon on the left named Mille Crag Bend, with a great
+number of jagged pinnacles gathered in a group at the
+top of the walls, which had dropped down to a height of
+about 1300 feet. We felt just a little proud of our achievement,
+and believed we had established a record for Cataract
+Canyon, having run all rapids in four days’ travelling,
+and come through in safety.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_152"></span></p>
+
+<p>We had one rapid to run the next morning at the
+beginning of Narrow Canyon, the only rapid in this nine-mile
+long canyon. The walls here at the beginning were
+twelve or thirteen hundred feet high, and tapered to the
+end, where they rise about four hundred feet above the
+Dirty Devil River. Narrow Canyon contains the longest
+straight stretch of river which we remembered having
+seen. When five miles from its mouth we could look
+through and see the snow-capped peak of Mt. Ellsworth
+beyond. This peak is one of the five that composes the
+Henry Mountains, which lay to the north of the river.</p>
+
+<p>Three hours’ rowing brought us to the end. We
+paused a few minutes to make a picture or two of the
+Dirty Devil River,—or the Frémont River as it is now
+recorded on the maps. This stream, flowing from the
+north, was the exact opposite of the Bright Angel Creek,
+that beautiful stream we knew so well, two hundred and
+fifty miles below this point. The Dirty Devil was muddy
+and alkaline, while warm springs containing sulphur and
+other minerals added to its unpalatable taste. After
+tasting it we could well understand the feeling of the
+Jack Sumner, whose remark, after a similar trial, suggested
+its name to Major Powell.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp79" id="i_152a-fp" style="max-width: 78.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_152a-fp.jpg" alt="Canyon walls soar upwards from the river. At the bottom of the photo, the Kolb boat are in the water, tied stern to stern.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LOWER CATARACT CANYON. BOATS TANDEM.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_152b-fp" style="max-width: 76.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_152b-fp.jpg" alt="View of an upper canyon face. An arch is formed in the wall where erosion has removed the stone below it.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">BEGINNING OF A NATURAL BRIDGE. GLEN CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A short distance below this we saw a tent, and found
+it occupied by an old-timer named Kimball. Among
+other things he told us that he had a partner, named
+Turner, who had made the trip through the canyons
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153"></span>
+above, and arrived at this point in safety. This was the
+man whose name we had seen on the walls in Cataract
+Canyon. Less than two miles more brought us to the
+Hite ranch, and post-office. John Hite gave us a cordial
+reception. He had known of our coming from the newspapers;
+besides, he had some mail for us. We spent the
+balance of the day in writing letters, and listening to
+Hite’s interesting experiences of his many years of residence
+in this secluded spot. Hite’s home had been a
+haven for the sole survivor of two expeditions which had
+met with disaster in Cataract. In each case they were
+on the verge of starvation. Hite kept a record of all
+known parties who had attempted the passage through
+the canyons above. Less than half of these parties,
+excepting Galloway’s several successful trips, succeeded
+in getting through Cataract Canyon without wrecking
+boats or losing lives.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the Frémont River the walls on the
+right or north side dropped down, leaving low, barren
+sandstone hills rolling away from the river, with a fringe
+of willows and shrubs beside the water, and with the
+usual sage-brush, prickly pear, cactus and bunch-grass
+on the higher ground. We had seen one broken-down
+log cabin, but this ranch was the only extensive
+piece of ground that was cultivated. Judging by the
+size of his stacks of alfalfa, Hite had evidently had
+a good season. The banks of the south side of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154"></span>
+river were about two hundred feet high, composed of
+a conglomerate mass of clay and gravel. This spot
+has long been a ferry crossing, known far and wide
+as Dandy Crossing, the only outlet across the river
+for the towns of southeastern Utah, along the San Juan
+River. The entire 150 miles of Glen Canyon had once
+been the scene of extensive placer operations. The boom
+finally died, a few claims only proving profitable.</p>
+
+<p>One of these claims was held by Bert Loper, one of
+the three miners who had gone down the river in 1908.
+Loper never finished, as his boat—a steel boat, by the
+way—was punctured in a rapid above Dark Canyon
+but was soon repaired. His cameras and plates being
+lost, he sent from Hite out for new ones. His companions—Chas.
+Russell, and E. R. <a id=“chg5”></a>Monnette—were
+to wait for him at Lee’s Ferry, after having prospected
+through Glen Canyon. Some mistake was made
+about the delivery of the cameras and, as Hite post-office
+only had weekly communication with the railroad,
+a month elapsed before he finally secured them. Lee’s
+Ferry had been discontinued as a post-office at that time,
+and, although he tried to get a letter in to them, it was
+never delivered. His disappointment can be imagined
+better than described, when he reached Lee’s Ferry and
+found his companions had left just a few days previous.
+They naturally thought if he were coming at all he would
+have been there long before that, and they gave him up,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155"></span>
+not knowing the cause of the delay. They left a letter,
+however, saying they would only go to the Bright Angel
+Trail, and the trip could be completed together on the
+following year.</p>
+
+<p>Loper spent many hard days working his boat, with
+his load of provisions, back against the current, and
+located a few miles below the Hite ranch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156"></span></p>
+
+</div>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+  <h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">
+    CHAPTER XV</h3>
+<h4>PLACER GOLD
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> passed Loper’s claim after resuming our journey
+the next day. His workings were a one-man proposition
+and very ingenious. We found a tunnel in the gravel
+a hundred feet above the river, and some distance back
+from the river bank. A track of light rails ran from
+the river bank to these workings; the gravel and sand
+was loaded into a car, and hauled or pushed to the
+bank, then dumped into a chute, which sent it down to
+the river’s edge.</p>
+
+<p>Loper was not at his work however, neither did we
+find him at his ranch, a mile down the river. He had
+a neat little place, with fruit trees and a garden, a horse
+or two, and some poultry. After resuming our rowing,
+when about a mile down the river, some one called to us
+from the shore, and Loper himself came running down
+to meet us. John Hite had requested us to stop and see
+his brother, Cass Hite, who owned a ranch and placer
+working nearly opposite where Loper had halted us; so
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157"></span>Loper crossed with us, as he was anxious to know of our
+passage through the canyons.</p>
+
+<p>We found, in Cass Hite, an interesting “old-timer,”
+one who had followed the crowd of miners and pioneers,
+in the West, since the discovery of gold on the coast. He
+was the discoverer of the White Canyon Natural Bridges,
+of Southern Utah, located between this point and the
+San Juan River, and had been the first to open the ferry
+at Dandy Crossings. Hite had prospected Navajo Mountain,
+southwest of this point, in the early sixties, about
+the time of the Navajos’ trouble with the United States
+army, under the leadership of Kit Carson, who dislodged
+them from their strongholds in the mountains after many
+others had failed. Hite’s life was saved on more than
+one occasion by warnings from a friendly chief, or head
+man of the Western Navajos, known as Hoskaninni,
+who regarded him as a brother, and bestowed on him the
+name, Hosteen pes´laki, meaning “Silver man.” He is
+still known by this name, and refers to his pretty ranch
+as Tick a Bo, a Ute word for “friendly.” Hite proudly
+quoted a poem written by Cy Warman about the theme
+of the Indian’s regard for his white friend. Warman
+had followed the crowd in to this spot at the time of
+the boom, looking for local colour—human local colour,
+not the glitter in the sands. It was at John Hite’s home
+where Warman had composed the one time popular song,
+“Sweet Marie.” It would be safe to say that he brought
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158"></span>his inspiration with him, for this was decidedly a man’s
+country. We were told that it had only been visited by
+one woman in the past twelve years. Hite insisted on
+our remaining until the following morning, and we concluded
+that the rest would do us good. He loaded us up
+with watermelons, and with raisins, which he was curing
+at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a
+shaded arbour, listening to his reminiscences, and munching
+at the raisins.</p>
+
+<p>That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon
+expedition. He felt a little bitter about some newspaper
+reports that had been published concerning this expedition,
+these reports giving the impression that his nerve
+had failed him, and that for this reason he had not continued
+on the journey. We mollified his feelings somewhat,
+when we told him that his companions were not
+responsible for these reports; but rather, that short telegraphic
+reports, sent out from the Grand Canyon, had been
+misconstrued by the papers; and that this accounted for
+the stories which had appeared. His companions had
+remained at the Grand Canyon for two days following
+their arrival at Bright Angel Trail. They gave Loper
+credit, to our certain knowledge, of being the only one
+of the party who knew how to handle the boats in rough
+water when they began the trip, and had stated that he
+ran all the boats through certain rapids until they caught
+the knack. They could not know of his reasons for the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159"></span>delay, and at that time had no knowledge of his arrival
+at Lee’s Ferry, after they had gone. Naturally they were
+very much puzzled over his non-appearance.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_158-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_158-fp.jpg" alt="The dark face of a canyon wall is covered with images etched into the stone by earlier Indian inhabitants of the area.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">PICTOGRAPHS IN GLEN CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>It got quite cold that night, and we were glad to have
+shelter of Hite’s hospitable roof. In our trip down
+the river to this point we had seemed to keep even with
+the first cold weather. In all places where it was open,
+we would usually find a little ice accompanied by frost
+in the mornings, or if no ice had frozen the grass would
+be wet with dew. In the canyons there was little or no
+ice, and the air was quite dry. Naturally we preferred
+the canyons if we had a choice of camps.</p>
+
+<p>Loper looked as though he would like to accompany
+us as we pulled away the next morning, after having
+landed him on the south side of the stream. We, at
+least, had full confidence in his nerve to tackle the lower
+Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon. The five
+scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to
+the north-northwest of us, rugged and snow-capped,
+supreme in their majesty above this desolate region.</p>
+
+<p>Signs of an ancient Indian race were plentiful in this
+section. There were several small cliff dwellings, walled
+up in ledges in the rocks, a hundred feet or so above a
+low flat which banked the river. At another place there
+were hundreds of carvings on a similar wall which overhung
+a little. Drawings of mountain-sheep were
+plentiful; there was one representing a human figure
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160"></span>with a bow and arrow, and with a sheep standing on the
+arrow—their way of telling that he got the sheep, no
+doubt. There were masked figures engaged in a dance,
+not unlike some of the Hopi dances of to-day, as they
+picture them. There were geometrical figures, and
+designs of many varieties. A small rock building half
+covered with sand and the accumulations of many years
+stood at the base of the cliff; and quantities of broken
+pottery were scattered about the ruin. Farther down
+the river a pathway was worn into the sandstone where
+countless bare and moccasined feet had toiled, and
+climbed over the sloping wall to the mesa above. The
+ruins in this section were not extensive, like those found
+in the tributary canyons of the San Juan River, for instance,
+not a very great distance from here. Possibly
+this people stopped here as they travelled back and forth,
+trading with their cousins to the north; or the dwellings
+may have been built by the scattered members of the
+tribe, when their strongholds were assailed by the more
+warlike tribes that crowded in on them from all sides.</p>
+
+<p>What a story these cliffs could tell! What a romance
+they could narrate of various tribes, as distinct from
+each other as the nations of Europe, crowding each
+other; and at the last of this inoffensive race, coming
+from the far south, it may be; driven from pillar to post,
+making their last stand in this desert land; to perish of
+pestilence, or to be almost exterminated by the bloodthirsty
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161"></span>tribes that surrounded them—then again, when
+the tide changed, and a new type of invader travelled
+from the east, pushing ever to the west, conquering all
+before them! But like the sphinx, the cliffs are silent
+and voiceless as the hillocks and sand-dunes along the
+Nile, that other desert stream, with a history no more
+ancient and momentous than this.</p>
+
+<p>That night we camped opposite the ruins of a dredge,
+sunk in the low water at the edge of the river. This
+dredge had once represented the outlay of a great deal of
+money. It is conceded by nearly all experts that the
+sands of these rivers contain gold, but it is of such
+a fine grain—what is known as flour gold—and the
+expense of saving it is so great, that it has not paid
+when operated on such a large scale. A few placers in
+Glen Canyon have paid individual operators, some of
+these claims being in gravel deposits from six hundred to
+eight hundred feet above the present level of the river.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we again entered deep canyon;
+sheer for several hundred feet, creamy white above, with
+a dark red colour in the lower sandstone walls. That
+afternoon we passed a small muddy stream flowing from
+the north, in a narrow, rock-walled canyon. This was
+the Escalante River, a stream rising far to the north,
+named for one of the Spanish priests who had travelled
+this country, both to the north and the south of this
+point, as early as the year 1776, about the time when
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162"></span>the New England colonists were in the midst of their
+struggle with the mother country.</p>
+
+<p>Just below the Escalante River, the canyon turned
+almost directly south, continuing in this general direction
+for several miles. A glimpse or two was had of the top
+of a tree-covered snow-capped peak directly ahead of us,
+or a little to the southwest. This could be none other
+than Navajo Mountain, a peak we could see from the
+Grand Canyon, and had often talked of climbing, but
+debated if we could spare the time, now that we were
+close to it.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_162a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_162a-fp.jpg" alt="Stone dwellings built into the side of a canyon wall.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CLIFF RUINS NEAR THE SAN JUAN RIVER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_162b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_162b-fp.jpg" alt="A natural stone arch spans a section of rocky canyon. The face of the bridge is in shadows; the canyon walls seen through the arch are sunlit.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE, LOOKING SOUTH.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>In all this run through Glen Canyon we had a good
+current, but only one place resembling a rapid. Here,
+below the Escalante, it was very quiet, and hard pulling
+was necessary to make any headway. We were anxious
+to reach the San Juan River that evening, but the days
+were growing short, and we were still many miles away
+when it began to grow dusk; so we kept a lookout for
+a suitable camp. The same conditions that had bothered
+us on one or two previous occasions were found here;
+slippery, muddy banks, and quicksand, together with an
+absence of firewood. We had learned before this to
+expect these conditions where the water was not swift.
+The slower stream had a chance to deposit its silt, and
+if the high water had been very quiet, we could expect to
+find it soft, or boggy. In the canyons containing swift
+water and rapids we seldom found mud, but found a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163"></span>firm sand, instead. Here in Glen Canyon we had
+plenty of mud, for the river had been falling the last few
+days. Time and again we inspected seemingly favourable
+places, only to be disappointed. The willows and dense
+shrubbery came down close to the river; the mud was
+black, deep, and sticky; all driftwood had gone out on
+the last flood. Meanwhile a glorious full moon had
+risen, spreading a soft, weird light over the canyon
+walls and the river; so that we now had a light much
+better than the dusk of half an hour previous, our course
+being almost due south. Finally, becoming discouraged,
+we decided to pull for the San Juan River, feeling sure
+that we would find a sand-bar there. It was late when
+we reached it, and instead of a sand-bar we found a delta
+of bottomless mud. We had drifted past the point where
+the rivers joined, before noticing that the stream turned
+directly to the west, with canyon walls two or three hundred
+feet high, and no moonlight entered there. Instead,
+it was black as a dungeon. From down in that
+darkness there came a muffled roar, reverberating against
+the walls, and sounding decidedly like a rapid. There
+was not a minute to lose. We pulled, and pulled hard—for
+the stream was now quite swift close to the right
+shore, and a sheer bank of earth about ten feet high
+made it difficult to land. Jumping into the mud at the
+edge of the water, we tied the boats to some bushes,
+then tore down the bank and climbed out on a dry,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164"></span>sandy point of land. At the end or sharp turn of the
+sheer wall we found a fair camp, with driftwood enough
+for that night. Emery, weak from his former illness
+and the long day’s run, went to bed as soon as we had
+eaten a light supper. I looked after the cooking that
+evening, making some baking-powder bread,—otherwise
+known as a flapjack,—along with other arrangements
+for the next day; but I fear my efforts as a cook
+always resulted rather poorly.</p>
+
+<p>We had breakfast at an early hour the next morning
+and were ready for the boats at 7.15, the earliest start
+to our record. Our rapid of the night before proved to
+be a false alarm, being nothing more than the breaking
+of swift water as it swept the banks of rocks at the turn.
+It was quite different from what we had pictured in our
+minds.</p>
+
+<p>We had long looked forward to this day. Navajo
+Mountain, with bare, jagged sides and tree-covered dome,
+was located just a few miles below this camp. It was a
+sandstone mountain peak, towering 7000 feet above the
+river, the steep slope beginning some five or six miles
+back from the stream. The base on which it rested was
+of sandstone, rounded and gullied into curious forms, a
+warm red and orange colour predominating. The north
+side, facing the river, was steep of slope, covered with
+the fragments of crumbled cliffs and with soft cream-tinted
+pinnacles rising from its slope. The south side,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165"></span>we had reason to believe, was tree-covered from top to
+bottom; the north side held only a few scattered cedar
+and piñon. We had often seen the hazy blue dome from
+the Grand Canyon, one hundred and twenty miles away,
+and while it was fifty miles farther by the river, we felt
+as if we were entered on the home stretch; as if we were
+in a country with which we were somewhat familiar.</p>
+
+<p>The Colorado and the San Juan rivers form the
+northern boundary of the Navajo Indian Reservation,
+comprising a tract of land as large as many Eastern states,
+extending over a hundred miles, both east and west
+from this point. Embodied in this reservation, and
+directly opposite our camp, was a small section of rugged
+land set aside for some Utes, who had friendly dealings,
+and who had intermarried with the Navajo. But if we
+expected to find the Navajo, or Utes on the shore, ready
+to greet us, we were doomed to disappointment.</p>
+
+<p>We explored a few side canyons this morning,
+hoping to find a spot where some of Major Powell’s
+party—particularly those men who were afterwards
+killed by the Indians—had chiselled their names, which
+record we were told was to be found near the San Juan,
+but on which side we were not sure. While in one of
+these canyons, or what was really nothing more than a
+crooked overhanging slit in the rocks, containing a
+small stream, Emery found himself in some soft
+quicksand, plunged instantly above his knees, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166"></span>sinking rapidly. He would have had a difficult time in
+getting out of this quicksand without help, for a smooth,
+rock wall was on one side, the other bank of the stream
+was sheer above him for a few feet, and there was nothing
+solid which he could reach. We had seen a great deal of
+quicksand before this, but nothing of this treacherous
+nature. Usually we could walk quickly over these sands
+without any danger of being held in them, or if caught—while
+lifting on a boat for instance—had no difficulty in
+getting out. When once out of this canyon we gave up
+our search for the carved record.</p>
+
+<p>But it was not the hope of shortening our homeward
+run, or the prospect of meeting Indians on the shores,
+or of finding historical records, even, that caused us to
+make this early start. It was the knowledge that the
+wonderful Rainbow Natural Bridge, recently discovered,
+and only visited by three parties of whites, lay hidden
+in one of the side canyons that ran from the north slope
+of Navajo Mountain. No one had gone into it from the
+river, but we were told it could be done. We hoped
+to find this bridge.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_166-fp" style="max-width: 48.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_166-fp.jpg" alt="A tiny figure of a man is outlined at the top of the arch.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+
+    <p class="allsmcap">RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE BETWEEN THE COLORADO RIVER AND NAVAJO MOUNTAIN. HEIGHT THREE HUNDRED AND EIGHT FEET. SPAN TWO HUNDRED AND SEVENTY FEET. NOTE FIGURE ON TOP. PHOTO BY KOLB BROTHERS, SEPTEMBER, 1913.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The current was swift, and we travelled fast, in spite
+of a stiff wind which blew up the stream, getting a very
+good view of the mountain from the river a few miles
+below our camp, and another view of the extreme top,
+a short distance below this place, not over six miles from
+the San Juan. We had directions describing the canyon
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167"></span>in which the bridge was located, our informant surmising
+that it was thirty miles below the San Juan. We thought
+it must be less than that, for the river was very direct
+at this place, and a person travelling over the extremely
+rough country which surrounded this side of the mountain
+slope would naturally have to travel much farther, so
+began to look for it about twelve miles below camp.
+But mile after mile went by without any sign of the
+landmarks that would tell us we were at the “Bridge
+Canyon.” Then the river, which had circled the northern
+side of the peak, turned directly away from it, and we
+knew that we had missed the bridge. At no point on
+the trip had we met with a disappointment to equal that;
+even the loss of our moving-picture film, after our spill
+in Lodore, was small when compared with it.</p>
+
+<p>On looking back over the lay of the land, we felt
+sure that the bridge was at one of the two places, where
+we had seen the top of the mountain from the river.
+To go back against the current would take at least three
+days. Our provisions were limited in quantity and
+would not permit it; the canyon had deepened, and a
+second bench of sheer cliffs rose above the plateau,
+making it impossible to climb out: so we concluded to
+make the best of it, and pulled down the stream, trying
+to put as many miles as possible between ourselves and
+our great disappointment. This afternoon we passed
+from Utah into Arizona. For the remainder of the trip
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168"></span>we would have Arizona on one side of the river at least.
+We had much the same difficulty this evening as we
+had the night before in finding a camp. Judging by the
+evidence along the shore, the high water which came down
+the San Juan had been a torrent, much greater than
+the flood on the Colorado and its upper tributaries.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_169"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">
+    CHAPTER XVI</h3>
+<h4>A WARNING
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> camped that night at the Ute Ford, or the Crossing
+of the Fathers; a noted landmark of bygone days, when
+Escalante (in 1776) and others later followed the inter-tribal
+trails across these unfriendly lands. Later marauding
+Navajo used this trail, crossing the canyon to the
+north side, raiding the scattered Mormon settlements,
+bringing their stolen horses, and even sheep, down this
+canyon trail. Then they drove them across on a frozen
+river, and escaped with them to their mountain fastness.
+The Mormons finally tired of these predatory visits, and
+shut off all further loss from that source by blasting off a
+great ledge at the north end of the trail. This ruined the
+trail beyond all hope of repair, and there is no travel
+at present over the old Ute Crossing. The fording of
+the river on horseback was effected by dropping down to
+the river through a narrow side canyon, and crossing to
+the centre on a shoal, then following a centre shoal down
+quite a distance, and completing the crossing at a low
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170"></span>point on the opposite side. This was only possible at
+the very lowest stage of water.</p>
+
+<p>The morning following our arrival here, we walked
+about a mile up the gravelly slope on the south side, to
+see if we could locate the pass by which the trail dropped
+down over these 3000-foot walls. The canyon had
+changed in appearance after leaving the mountain, and
+now we had a canyon; smaller, but not unlike the Grand
+Canyon in appearance, with an inner plateau, and a
+narrow canyon at the river, while the walls on top were
+several miles apart, and towering peaks or buttes rose
+from the plateau, reaching a height almost equal to the
+walls themselves. The upper walls were cream-tinted
+or white sandstone, the lower formation was a warm
+red sandstone. We could not discover the pass without
+a long walk to the base of the upper cliffs, so returned
+to the boats.</p>
+
+<p>About this time we heard shots, seeming to come from
+some point down the river, and on the north side. Later
+a dull hollow sound was heard like pounding on a great
+bass drum. We could not imagine what it was, but knew
+that it must be a great distance away. We had noticed
+instances before this, where these smooth, narrow canyon
+had a great magnifying effect on noises. In the section
+above the San Juan, where the upper walls overhung a little,
+a loud call would roll along for minutes before it finally
+died. A shot from a revolver sounded as if the cliffs
+were falling.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp66" id="i_170a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_170a-fp.jpg" alt="A rock wall overhangs the river. Rocks of various sizes line the sides of the river. A vertical canyon wall is opposite the overhang.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">UPPER MARBLE CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp66" id="i_170b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_170b-fp.jpg" alt="A sheer canyon face meets the river. Low hills are in the distance on the opposite side of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">GLEN CANYON, NEAR NAVAJO MOUNTAIN.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_171"></span></p>
+
+<p>Our run this morning was delightful. The current
+was the best on which we had travelled. The channel
+swung from side to side, in great half circles, with most of
+the water thrown against the outside bank, or wall, with
+a five-or six-mile an hour current close to the wall. We
+took advantage of all this current, hugging the wall,
+with the stern almost touching, and with the bow pointed
+out so we would not run into the walls or scrape our oars.
+Then, when it seemed as if our necks were about to be
+permanently dislocated, from looking over one shoulder,
+the river would reverse its curve, the channel would cross
+to the other side, and we would give that side of our necks
+a rest. Once in a great while I would bump a rock, and
+would look around sheepishly, to see if my brother had
+seen me do it. I usually found him with a big grin on
+his face, if he happened to be ahead of me.</p>
+
+<p>We rowed about twenty miles down the river before
+we learned what had caused the noises heard in the
+morning. On rounding a turn we saw the strange spectacle
+of fifteen or twenty men at work on the half-constructed
+hull of a flat-bottomed steamboat, over sixty
+feet in length. This boat was on the bank quite a distance
+above the water, with the perpendicular walls of a
+crooked side canyon rising above it. It was a strange
+sight, here in this out-of-the-way corner of the world.
+Some men with heavy sledges were under the boat, driving
+large spikes into the planking. This was the noise we
+had heard that morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172"></span></p>
+
+<p>The blasting, we learned later, was at some coal
+mines, several miles up this little canyon, which bore
+the name of Warm Creek Canyon. A road led down
+through the canyon, making it possible to haul the lumber
+for the boat, clear to the river’s edge. The nearest railroad
+was close to two hundred miles from this place,
+quite a haul considering the ruggedness of the country.
+The material for the boat had been shipped from San
+Francisco, all cut, ready to put together. The vessel
+was to be used to carry coal down the river, to a dredge
+that had recently been installed at Lee’s Ferry.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner gong had just sounded when we landed,
+and we were taken along with the crowd. There were
+some old acquaintances in this group of men, we found,
+from Flagstaff, Arizona. These men had received a
+Flagstaff paper which had published a short note we had
+sent from Green River, Utah. They had added a comment
+that no doubt this would be the last message we
+would have an opportunity to send out. Very cheering
+for Emery’s wife, no doubt. Fortunately she shared our
+enthusiasm, and if she felt any apprehension her few
+letters failed to show it.</p>
+
+<p>We resumed our rowing at once after dinner, for we
+wished to reach Lee’s Ferry, twenty-five miles distant,
+that evening. We had a good current, and soon left our
+friends behind us. We pulled with a will, and mile after
+mile was covered in record time, for our heavy boats.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173"></span></p>
+
+<p>The walls continued to get higher as we neared our
+goal, going up sheer close to the river. We judged the
+greatest of these walls to be about eleven hundred feet
+high. After four hours of steady pulling we began to
+weary, for ours were no light loads to propel; but we were
+spurred to renewed effort by hearing the sounds of an
+engine in the distance. On rounding a turn we saw the
+end of Glen Canyon ahead of us, marked by a breaking
+down of the walls, and a chaotic mixture of dikes of rock,
+and slides of brilliantly coloured shales, broken and tilted
+in every direction. Just below this, close to a ferry, we
+saw the dredge on the right side of the river. We were
+quite close to the dredge before we were seen. Some
+men paused at their work to watch us as we neared them,
+one man calling to those behind him, “There come the
+brothers!”</p>
+
+<p>A whistle blew announcing the end of their day’s labour,
+and of ours as well, as it happened. There was some
+cheering and waving of hats. One who seemed to be the
+foreman asked us to tie up to a float which served as a
+landing for three motor boats, and a number of skiffs.
+A loudly beaten triangle of steel announced that the
+evening meal was ready at a stone building not far from the
+dredge. We were soon seated at a long table with a lot
+of others as hungry as we, partaking of a well-cooked
+and substantial meal. We made arrangements to take
+a few meals here, as we wished to overhaul our outfits
+before resuming our journey.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_174"></span></p>
+
+<p>The meal ended, we inquired for the post-office, and
+were directed to a ranch building across the Paria River,
+a small stream which entered from the north, not unlike
+the Frémont River in size and appearance. Picking
+our way in the darkness, on boulders and planks which
+served as a crossing, we soon reached the building, set
+back from the river in the centre of the ranch. A
+man named Johnson, with his family, had charge of the
+ranch and post-office as well. Mail is brought by carrier
+from the south, a cross-country trip of 160 miles,
+through the Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations.</p>
+
+<p>Johnson informed us that an old-time friend named
+Dave Rust had waited here three or four days, hoping
+to see us arrive, but business matters had forced him to
+leave just the day before. We were very sorry to have
+missed him. Rust lived in the little Mormon town of
+Kanab, Utah, eighty miles north of the Grand Canyon
+opposite our home. In addition to being a cattle man
+and rancher, he had superintended the construction of a
+cable crossing, or tramway, over the Colorado River,
+beside the mouth of Bright Angel Creek, not many miles
+from our home. He also maintains a cozy camp at this
+place, for the accommodation of tourists and hunting parties,
+which he conducts up Bright Angel Creek and
+into the Kaibab Forest. It was while returning from
+such a hunting trip that we first met Rust. Many are
+the trips we have taken with him since then, Emery, with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175"></span>his wife and the baby, even, making the “crossing”
+and the eighty-mile horseback ride to his home in Kanab,
+while I had continued on through to Salt Lake City.
+Rust had been the first to tell us of Galloway and his
+boating methods; and had given us a practical demonstration
+on the river. Naturally there was no one we
+would have been more pleased to see at that place,
+than Rust.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_174-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_174-fp.jpg" alt="A dredge is operating at the shoreline; pipes and equipment are scattered in the vicinity along the shore.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="smcap">PLACER DREDGE AT LEE’S FERRY.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>In our mail we found a letter from him, stating, among
+other things, that he had camped the night before on
+the plateau, a few hundred feet above a certain big rapid,
+well known through this section as the Soap Creek Rapid.
+This locality is credited with being the scene of the first
+fatality which overtook the Brown-Stanton expedition;
+Brown being upset and drowned in the next rapid which
+followed, after having portaged the Soap Creek Rapid.
+Rust wrote also that there was a shore along the rapid,
+so there would be no difficulty in making the portage; and
+concluded by saying that he had a very impressive dream
+about us that night, the second of its kind since we had
+started on our journey.</p>
+
+<p>We understood from this that he had certain misgivings
+about this rapid, and took his dream to be a sort
+of a warning. Rust should have known us better.
+With all the perversity of human nature that letter made
+me want to run that rapid if it were possible. Why
+run the rapid, and get a moving picture as it was being
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176"></span>done. Then we could show Rust how well we had learned
+our lesson! So I thought as we returned to the buildings
+near the dredge, but said nothing of what was in my mind
+to Emery, making the mental reservation that I would
+see the rapid first and decide afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>The foreman of the placer mines called us into his
+office that evening, and suggested that it might be a good
+plan to go over our boats thoroughly before we left,
+and offered us the privilege of using their workshop,
+with all its conveniences, for any needed repairs. He
+also let us have a room in one of the buildings for our
+photographic work.</p>
+
+<p>This foreman mourned the loss of a friend who had
+recently been drowned at the ferry. It seemed that the
+floods which had preceded us, especially that part which
+came down the San Juan River, had been something
+tremendous, rising 45 feet at the ferry, where the river
+was 400 feet wide; and rising much higher in the narrow
+portions of Glen Canyon. Great masses of driftwood
+had floated down, looking almost like a continuous raft.
+When the river had subsided somewhat, an attempt
+was made to cross with the ferry. The foreman and
+his friend, with two others, and a team of horses hitched
+to a wagon, were on the ferry. When in midstream,
+it overturned in the swollen current. Three of the men
+escaped, the other man and the horses were drowned.</p>
+
+<p>A careful search had been made for the body to a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177"></span>point a few miles down the river, then the canyon
+closed in and they could go no farther. The body was
+never recovered. It is seldom that the Colorado River
+gives up its dead. The heavy sands collect in the clothes,
+and a body sinks much quicker than in ordinary water.
+Any object lodged on the bottom is soon covered with a
+sand-bar. The foreman knew this, of course; yet he wished
+us to keep a lookout for the body, which might, by some
+chance, have caught on the shore, when the water receded.
+This was as little as any one would do, and we
+gave him our promise to keep a careful watch.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">
+    CHAPTER XVII</h3>
+<h4>A NIGHT OF THRILLS
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> declined the offer of a roof that night, preferring
+to sleep in the open here, for the evening was quite warm.
+We went to work the next morning when the whistle
+sounded at the dredge. Beyond caulking a few leaks
+in the boats, little was done with them. The tin receptacles
+holding our photographic plates and films were
+carefully coated with a covering of melted paraffine; for
+almost anything might happen, in the one hundred miles
+of rapid water that separated us from our home.</p>
+
+<p>Lee’s Ferry was an interesting place, both for its old
+and its new associations. This had long been the home
+of John D. Lee, well known for the part he took in the
+Mountain Meadow Massacre, and for which he afterwards
+paid the death penalty. Here Lee had lived for many
+years, making few visits to the small settlements to the
+north, but on one of these visits he was captured. There
+were six or seven other buildings near the large stone building
+where we took our meals, so arranged that they made
+a short street, the upper row being built against a cliff
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179"></span>of rock and shale, the other row being placed halfway
+between this row and the river. These buildings were
+all of rock, of which there was no lack, plastered with
+adobe, or mud. One, we were told, had been Lee’s
+stronghold. It was a square building, with a few very
+small windows, and with loopholes in the sides. At
+the time of our visit it was occupied by two men; one,
+a young Englishman, recently arrived from South Africa—a
+remittance-man, in search of novelty—the other
+a grizzled forty-niner. Much could be written about
+this interesting group of men, and their alluring employment.
+There were some who had followed this work
+through all the camps of the West—to Colorado, to
+California, and to distant Alaska as well, they had
+journeyed; but it is doubtful if, in all their wanderings,
+they had seen any camp more strangely located than this,
+hemmed in with canyon walls. To us, their dredge and
+the steamboat up the river seemed as if they had been
+taken from the pages of some romance, or bit of fiction,
+and placed before us for our entertainment.</p>
+
+<p>There were other men as well, just as interesting
+in their way as the “old-timers,” the sons of some of the
+owners of this proposition,—clean-cut young fellows,—working
+side by side with the veterans, as enthusiastic
+as if on their college campus.</p>
+
+<p>One feature about the dredge interested us greatly.
+This was a tube, or sucker, held suspended by a derrick
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180"></span>above a float, and operated by compressed air. This
+tube was dropped into the sand at the bottom of the river,
+and would eat its way into it, bringing up rocks the size
+of one’s fist, along with the gravel and sand. In a
+few hours a hole, ten or fifteen feet in depth and ten
+feet in diameter, would be excavated. Then the tube
+was raised, the float was moved, and the work started
+again. The coarse sand and gravel, carried by a stream
+of water, was returned to the river, after passing over
+the riffles; the screenings which remained passed over
+square metal plates—looking like sheets of tin—covered
+with quicksilver. These plates were cleaned with a
+rubber window-cleaner, and the entire residue was
+saved in a heavy metal pot, ready for the chemist.</p>
+
+<p>One day only was needed for our work, and by evening
+we were ready for the next plunge. We might have
+enjoyed a longer stay with these men, but stronger than
+this desire was our anxiety to reach our home, separated
+from us by a hundred miles of river, no extended part
+of the distance being entirely free from rapids. We
+had written to the Grand Canyon, bidding them look
+for our signal fire in Bright Angel Creek Canyon, in from
+seven to ten days, and planned to leave on the following
+morning. Nothing held us now except the hope that the
+mail, which was due that evening, might bring us a letter,
+although that was doubtful, for we were nearly a week
+ahead of our schedule as laid out at Green River, Utah.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp90" id="i_180a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_180a-fp.jpg" alt="Water churns through rocky rapids; a boat is barely visible amid the foamy water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="smcap">BADGER CREEK RAPID. NOTE STERN OF BOAT BESIDE ROCK NEAR CENTRE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_180b-fp" style="max-width: 105.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_180b-fp.jpg" alt="Striations of various widths extend across the width of a sheer canyon wall.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Photo by Julius F. Stone.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">BANDS OF MARBLE IN MARBLE CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181"></span></p>
+
+<p>As we had anticipated, there was no mail for us, so
+we turned to inspect the mail carrier. He was a splendid
+specimen of the Navajo Indian,—a wrestler of note
+among his people, we were told,—large and muscular,
+and with a peculiar springy, slouchy walk that gave one
+the impression of great reserve strength. He had ridden
+that day from Tuba, an agency on their reservation,
+about seventy miles distant. This was the first sign
+of an Indian that we had seen in this section, although
+we had been travelling along the northern boundary of
+their reservation since leaving the mouth of the San
+Juan. These Indians have no use for the river, being
+children of the desert, rather than of the water. Beyond
+an occasional crossing and swimming their horses at
+easy fords, they make no attempt at its navigation, even
+in the quiet water of Glen Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the men showed this Indian our boats, and
+told him of our journey. He smiled, and shrugged
+his massive shoulders as much as to say, he “would
+believe it when he saw it.” He had an opportunity to
+see us start, at least, on the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving, we climbed a 300-foot mound on the
+left bank of the Paria River, directly opposite the Lee
+ranch. This mound is known as Lee’s Lookout. Whether
+used by Lee or not, it had certainly served that purpose
+at some time. A circular wall of rock was built on top
+the mound, and commanded an excellent view of all
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182"></span>the approaches to the junction of the rivers. This spot
+is of particular interest to the geologist, for a great fault,
+indicated by the Vermilion Cliffs, marks the division
+between Glen Canyon and Marble Canyon. This line
+of cliffs extends to the south for many miles across the
+Painted Desert, and north into Utah for even a greater
+distance, varying in height from two hundred feet at
+the southern end to as many thousand feet in some places
+to the north. Looking to the west, we could see that here
+was another of those sloping uplifts of rock, with the
+river cutting down, increasing the depth of the canyon
+with every mile.</p>
+
+<p>We had now descended about 2900 feet since leaving
+Green River City, Wyoming, not a very great fall for
+the distance travelled if an average is taken, but a considerable
+portion of the distance was on quiet water, as
+we have noted, with a fall of a foot or two to the mile,
+and with alternate sections only containing bad water.
+We were still at an elevation of 3170 feet above the sea-level,
+and in the 283 miles of canyon ahead of us—Marble
+Canyon and the Grand Canyon combined—the
+river descends 2330 feet, almost a continuous series of
+rapids from this point to the end of the Grand Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>After a hasty survey from our vantage point, we
+returned to the river and prepared to embark. As we
+left the dredge, the work was closed down for a few
+minutes, and the entire crowd of men, about forty in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183"></span>number, stood on an elevation to watch us run the first
+rapid. The Indian had crossed to the south side of the
+to feed his horse and caught a glimpse of us as we
+went past him. Running pell-mell down to his boat,
+he crossed the river and joined the group on the bank.
+About this time we were in the grip of the first rapid, a
+long splashy one, with no danger whatever, but large
+enough to keep us busy until we had passed from view.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below this, after running a pair of small
+rapids, we reached a larger one, known as the Badger
+Creek Rapid, with a twenty-foot drop in the first 250
+feet, succeeded by a hundred yards of violent water.
+Emery had a little difficulty in this rapid, when his boat
+touched a rock which turned the boat sideways in the
+current, and he was nearly overturned in the heavy waves
+which followed. As it was, we were both drenched.</p>
+
+<p>About the middle of the afternoon, twelve miles below
+Lee’s Ferry, we reached the Soap Creek Rapid of which
+we had heard so much. The rapid had a fall of twenty-five
+feet, and was a quarter of a mile long. Most of the
+fall occurred in the first fifty yards. The river had
+narrowed down until it was less than two hundred feet
+wide at the beginning of the descent. Many rocks were
+scattered all through the upper end, especially at the
+first drop. On the very brink or edge of the first fall,
+there was a submerged rock in the centre of the channel,
+making an eight-foot fall over the rock. A violent
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184"></span>current, deflected from the left shore, shot into this
+centre and added to the confusion. Twelve-foot waves,
+from the conflicting currents, played leap-frog, jumping
+over or through each other alternately. Clearly there
+was no channel on that side. On the right or north side
+of the stream it looked more feasible, as the water shot
+down a sloping chute over a hundred feet before meeting
+with an obstruction. This came in the shape of two
+rocks, one about thirty feet below the other. To run the
+rapid this first rock would have to be passed before
+any attempt could be made to pull away from the
+second rock, which was quite close to the shore.
+Once past that there was a clear channel to the end of
+the rapid, if the centre, which contained many rocks,
+was avoided. Below the rapid was the usual whirlpool,
+then a smaller rapid, running under the left wall. This
+second rapid was the one that had been so fatal for
+Brown. The Soap Creek rapid in many ways was not
+as bad as some we had gone over in Cataract Canyon,
+but there were so many complications that we hesitated
+a long time before coming to a decision that we would
+make an attempt with one boat, depending on our good
+luck which had brought us through so many times, as
+much as we depended on our handling of the boat.</p>
+
+<p>It was planned that I should make the first attempt
+while Emery remained with the motion-picture camera
+just below the rock that we most feared, with the agreement
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185"></span>that he was to get a picture of the upset if one
+occurred, then run to the lower end of the rapid with a
+rope and a life-preserver.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_184-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_184-fp.jpg" alt="A man seated on a rock on shore ties his shoe. Sleeping bags are on the ground next to him. The two boats are grounded at the shoreline. A canyon wall rises above the opposite side of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A PEACEFUL CAMP IN MARBLE CANYON, BELOW VASEY’S PARADISE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>After adjusting life-preservers I returned to my boat
+and was soon on the smooth water above the rapid, holding
+my boat to prevent her from being swept over the
+rock in the centre, jockeying for the proper position before
+I would allow her to be carried into the current. Once
+in, it seemed but an instant until I was past the first
+rock, and almost on top of the second. I was pulling
+with every ounce of strength, and was almost clear of
+the rock when the stern touched it gently. I had no
+idea the boat would overturn, but thought she would
+swing around the rock, heading bow first into the stream,
+as had been done before on several occasions. Instead
+of this she was thrown on her side with the bottom of the
+boat held against the rock while I found myself thrown
+out of the boat, but hanging to the gunwale. Then the
+boat swung around and instantly turned upright while I
+scrambled back into the cockpit. Looking over my
+shoulder, when I had things well in hand again, I saw my
+brother was still at the camera, white as a sheet, but
+turning at the crank as if our entire safety depended on it.
+After I landed the water-filled boat, however, he confessed
+to me that he had no idea whether he had caught the upset
+or not, as he may have resumed the work when he saw
+that I was safe.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186"></span></p>
+
+<p>Then we went to work to find out what damage
+was done. First we found that the case, which was
+supposed to be waterproof, had a half-inch of water
+inside, but fortunately none of our films were wet. Some
+plates which we had just exposed and which were still
+in the holders were soaked. The cameras also had
+suffered. We hurriedly wiped off the surplus water
+and piled these things on the shore, then emptied the
+boat of a few barrels of water.</p>
+
+<p>This one experience, I suppose, should have been
+enough for me with that rapid, but I foolishly insisted on
+making another trial at it with the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>, for I felt sure I
+could make it if I only had another chance, and the fact
+that Emery had the empty boat at the end of the rapid
+and could rescue me if an upset occurred greatly lessened
+the danger. The idea of making a portage, with the loss
+of nearly a day, did not appeal to me.</p>
+
+<p>Emery agreed to this reluctantly, and advised waiting
+until morning, for it was growing dusk, but with the remark
+“I will sleep better with both boats tied at the
+lower end of the rapid,” I returned to the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>. To
+make a long story short I missed my channel, and was
+carried over the rock in the centre of the stream. The
+<i class="shipname">Edith</i> had bravely mounted the first wave, and was
+climbing the second comber, standing almost on end, it
+seemed to me, when the wave crested over the stern,
+while the current shooting it from the side struck the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187"></span>submerged bow and she fell back in the water upside
+down. It was all done so quickly, I hardly knew what
+had occurred, but found myself in the water, whirling
+this way and that, holding to the right oar with a death-grip.
+I wondered if the strings would hold, and felt a
+great relief when the oar stopped slipping down,—as
+the blade reached the ring. It was the work of a second
+to climb the oar, and I found I was under the cockpit.
+Securing a firm hold on the gunwale, which had helped
+us so often, I got on the outside of the boat, thinking I
+might climb on top. About that time one of the largest
+waves broke over me, knocking me on the side of the
+head as if with a solid object, nearly tearing me from
+the boat. After that I kept as close to the boat as
+possible, paddling with my feet to keep them clear of
+rocks. Then the suction of the boat caught them and
+dragged them under, and for the rest of the rapid I had
+all I could do to hang to the boat. As the rapid dwindled
+I began to look for Emery, but was unable to see him,
+for it was now growing quite dark, but I could see a fire
+on shore that he had built. I tried to call but was
+strangled with the breaking waves; my voice was drowned
+in the roar of the rapid. One of the life-preservers was
+torn loose and floated ahead of me. Finally I got an
+answer, and could see that Emery had launched his boat.
+As he drew near I told him to save the life-preserver,
+which he did, then hurriedly pulled for me. I remarked
+with a forced laugh, to reassure him,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_188"></span></p>
+
+<p>“Gee, Emery, this water’s cold.”</p>
+
+<p>He failed to join in my levity, however, and said with
+feeling, “Thank the good Lord you are here!” and
+down in my heart I echoed his prayer of thanks.</p>
+
+<p>Somehow I had lost all desire to successfully navigate
+the Soap Creek Rapid.</p>
+
+<p>But our troubles were not entirely over. Emery
+had pulled me in after a futile attempt or two, with a
+hold sometimes used by wrestlers, linking his arm in
+mine, leaning forward, and pulling me in over his back
+I was so numbed by the cold that I could do little to help
+him, after what, I suppose, was about a quarter of an
+hour’s struggle in the water; although it seemed much
+longer than that to me.</p>
+
+<p>We then caught the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> and attempted to turn her
+over, but before this could be done we were dragged
+into the next rapid. Emery caught up the oars, while I
+could do nothing but hold to the upturned boat, half
+filled with water, striving to drag us against the wall
+on the left side of the stream. It was no small task to
+handle the two boats in this way, but Emery made it;
+then, when he thought we were sure of a landing, the
+<i class="shipname">Edith</i> dragged us into the river again. Two more small
+rapids were run as we peered through the darkness for
+a landing. Finally we reached the shore over a mile
+below the Soap Creek Rapid. We were on the opposite
+side of the stream from that where we had unloaded the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189"></span><i class="shipname">Defiance</i>. This material would have to stay where it was
+that night.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_188-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_188-fp.jpg" alt="Water churns across rocks that span the width of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE SOAP CREEK RAPID; A LITTLE ABOVE LOWEST STAGE. PHOTO PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF JULIUS F. STONE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>While bailing the water from the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> we noticed a
+peculiar odour, and thought for a while that it might be
+the body of the man who was drowned at the ferry, but
+later we found it came from a green cottonwood log
+that had become water-soaked, and was embedded in
+the sand, close to our landing. It was Emery’s turn to
+do the greater part of the camp work that night, while I
+was content to hug the fire, wrapped in blankets, waiting
+for the coffee to boil.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">
+    CHAPTER XVIII</h3>
+<h4>MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">There</span> was little of the spectacular in our work the
+next day as we slowly and laboriously dragged an empty
+boat upstream against the swift-running current, taking
+advantage of many little eddies, but finding much of the
+shore swept clean. I had ample opportunity to ponder
+on the wisdom of my attempt to save time by
+running the Soap Creek Rapid instead of making
+a portage, while we carried our loads over the immense
+boulders that banked the stream, down to a swift piece
+of water, past which we could not well bring the boats;
+or while we developed the wet plates from the ruined
+plate-holders. It was with no little surprise that we
+found all the plates, except a few which were not uniformly
+wet and developed unevenly, could be saved.
+It took a day and a half to complete all this work.</p>
+
+<p>Marble Canyon was now beginning to narrow up,
+with a steep, boulder-covered slope on either side, three
+or four hundred feet high; with a sheer wall of dark red
+limestone of equal height directly above that. There
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191"></span>was also a plateau of red sandstone and distant walls
+topped with light-coloured rock, the same formations with
+which we were familiar in the Grand Canyon. The
+inner gorge had narrowed from a thousand feet or more
+down to four hundred feet, the slope at the river was
+growing steeper and gradually disappearing, and each
+mile of travel had added a hundred feet or more to the
+height of the walls. Soon after resuming our journey
+that afternoon, the slope disappeared altogether, and the
+sheer walls came down close to the water. There were
+few places where one could climb out, had we desired to do
+so. This hard limestone wall, which Major Powell
+had named the marble wall, had a disconcerting way of
+weathering very smooth and sheer, with a few ledges
+and fewer breaks.</p>
+
+<p>We made a short run that day, going over a few rapids,
+stopping an hour to make some pictures where an immense
+rock had fallen from the cliff above into the
+middle of the river bed, leaving a forty-foot channel
+on one side, and scarcely any on the other. Below this
+we found a rapid so much like the Soap Creek Rapid in
+appearance that a portage seemed advisable. It was
+evening when we got the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> to the lower end of this
+rapid after almost losing her, as we lined her down, and
+she was wedged under a sloping rock that overhung
+the rapid. We had two ropes, one at either end, attached
+to the boat in this case. Emery stood below the rock
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192"></span>ready to pull her in when once past the rock. There
+was a sickening crackling of wood as the deck of the
+boat wedged under and down to the level of the water,
+and at Emery’s call I released the boat, throwing the
+rope into the river, and hurried to help him. He was
+almost dragged into the water as the boat swung around,
+fortunately striking against a sand-bank, instead of the
+many rocks that lined the shore. We were working with
+a stream different from the Green River, we found, and
+the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> was taken from the water the next day and
+slowly worked, one end at a time, over the rocks, up to a
+level sand-bank, twenty-five or thirty feet above the
+river. Then we put rollers under her, and worked her
+down past the rapid. This work was little to our liking,
+for the boats, now pretty well water-soaked, weighed
+considerably more than their original five hundred
+pounds’ weight.</p>
+
+<p>A few successful plunges soon brought back our
+former confidence, and we continued to run all other
+rapids that presented themselves. This afternoon we
+passed the first rapid we remembered having seen, where
+we could not land at its head before running it. A slightly
+higher stage of water, however, would have made many
+such rapids. Just below this point we found the body
+of a bighorn mountain-sheep floating in an eddy. It was
+impossible to tell just how he came to his death. There
+was no sign of any great fall that we could see. He had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193"></span>a splendid pair of horns, which we would have liked to
+have had at home, but which we did not care to amputate
+and carry with us.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp69" id="i_192a-fp" style="max-width: 70.875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_192a-fp.jpg" alt="A collapsible table holds gear at the front of a cave in the canyon wall. A man is seated in the cave opening looking at a large sheet of paper (possibly a map).">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">“IT WAS TOO GOOD A CAMP TO MISS.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp68" id="i_192b-fp" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_192b-fp.jpg" alt="Before a cavernous opening into the canyon wall, a man at the shoreline is dwarfed by the opening.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">ARCH IN MARBLE CANYON. NOTE FIGURE ON RIGHT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>On this day’s travel, we passed a number of places
+where the marble—which had suggested this canyon’s
+name to Major Powell—appeared. The exposed parts
+were checked, or seamed, and apparently would have
+little commercial value. We passed a shallow cave or two
+this day, then found another cave or hole, running back
+about fifteen feet in the wall, so suitable for a camp that
+we could not refuse the temptation to stop, although we
+had made but a very short run this day. The high water
+had entered it, depositing successive layers of sand on the
+bottom, rising in steps, one above the other, making convenient
+shelves for maps and journals, pots and pans;
+while little shovelling was necessary to make the lower
+level of sand fit our sleeping bags. A number of small
+springs, bubbling from the walls near by, gave us the first
+clear water that we had found for some time, and a pile
+of driftwood caught in the rocks, directly in front of our
+cave, added to its desirability for a camp. Firewood
+was beginning to be the first consideration in choosing
+a camp, for in many places the high water had swept the
+shores clean, and spots which might otherwise have
+made splendid camps were rendered most undesirable
+for this reason.</p>
+
+<p>So Camp Number 47 was made in this little cave, with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194"></span>a violent rapid directly beneath us, making a din that
+might be anything but reassuring, were we not pretty
+well accustomed to it by this time. The next day,
+Sunday, November the 12th, was passed in the same
+spot. The air turned decidedly cold this day, a hard
+wind swept up the river, the sky above was overcast,
+and we had little doubt that snow was falling on the
+Kaibab Plateau, which we could not see, but which we
+knew rose to the height of 5500 feet above us, but a few
+miles to the northwest of this camp. The sheer walls
+directly above the river dropped down considerably
+at this point, and a break or two permitted us to climb up
+as high as we cared to go on the red sandstone wall,
+which had lost its level character, and now rose in a
+steep slope over a thousand feet above us. These walls,
+with no growth but the tussocks of bunch-grass, the
+prickly pear cactus, the mescal, and the yucca, were more
+destitute of growth than any we had seen, excepting
+the upper end of Desolation Canyon, even the upper walls
+lacking the growth of piñon pine and juniper which we
+usually associated with them. We were now directly
+below the Painted Desert, which lay to the left of the
+canyon, and no doubt a similar desert was on the right-hand
+side, in the form of a narrow plateau; but we had
+no means of knowing just how wide or narrow this was,
+before it raised again to the forest-covered Buckskin
+Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195"></span></p>
+
+<p>The rapid below our camp was just as bad as its roar,
+we found, on running it the next day. Most of the descent
+was confined to a violent drop at the very beginning,
+but there was a lot of complicated water in the big waves
+that followed. Emery was thrown forward in his boat,
+when he reached the bottom of the chute, striking his
+mouth, and bruising his hands, as he dropped his oars
+and caught the bulkhead. An extra oar was wrenched
+from the boat and disappeared in the white water, or
+foam that was as nearly white as muddy water ever gets.
+I nearly upset, and broke the pin of a rowlock, the
+released oar being jerked from my hand, sending me
+scrambling for an extra oar, when the boat swept into a
+swift whirlpool. Emery caught my oar as it whirled
+past him; the other was found a half-mile below in an
+eddy.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the rapids in the centre of Marble Canyon
+were not more than 75 feet wide, with a corresponding
+violence of water. The whirlpools in the wider channels
+below these rapids were the strongest we had seen, and
+had a most annoying way of holding the boats just when
+we thought we had evaded them. Sometimes there would
+be a whirlpool on either side, with a sharply defined
+line of division in the centre, along which it was next to
+impossible to go without being caught on one side or
+the other. These whirlpools were seldom regarded as
+serious, for our boats were too wide and heavy to be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196"></span>readily overturned in them, although we saved ourselves
+more than one upset by throwing our weight to the opposite
+side. A small boat would have upset. On two
+occasions we were caught in small whirlpools, where a
+point of rock projected from the shore, turning upstream,
+splitting a swift current and making a very rapid and
+difficult whirl, where the boats were nearly smashed
+against the walls. Below all such places were the familiar
+boils, or fountains, or shoots, as they are variously termed.
+These are the lower end of the whirlpools, emerging often
+from the quiet water below a rapid with nearly as much
+violence as they disappeared in the rapids above. These
+would often rise when least expected, breaking under the
+boats, the swift upshoot of water giving them such a rap
+that we sometimes thought we had struck a rock. If one
+happened to be in the centre of a boil when it broke, it
+would send them sailing down the stream many times
+faster than the regular current was travelling, rowing
+the boat having about as little effect on determining its
+course as if it was loaded on a flat-car. The other boat,
+at times just a few feet away, might be caught in the
+whirlpools that formed at the edge of the fountains,
+often opening up suddenly under one side of the boat,
+causing it to dip until the water poured over the edge,
+holding it to that one spot in spite of every effort to row
+away.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_196-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_196-fp.jpg" alt="Two boats are tied at the shoreline. The canyon walls are close together, shaded from sunlight.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">WALLS OF MARBLE CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Then we would strike peaceful water again, a mile or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197"></span>two perhaps, so quiet that a thin covering of clear water
+over the top of the silt-laden pool beneath, reflecting
+the tinted walls and the turquoise sky beneath its
+limpid surface. Gems of sunlight sparkled on its bosom
+and scintillated in the ripples left behind by the oars.
+When seated with our backs to the strongest light, and
+when glancing along the top of such a pool instead of
+into it, the mirror-like surface gave way to a peculiar
+purplish tone which seemed to cover the pool, so that one
+would forget it was roily water, and saw only the iridescent
+beauty of a mountain stream.</p>
+
+<p>The wonderful marble walls—better known to the
+miners as the blue limestone walls—now rose from the
+water’s edge to a height of eight or nine hundred feet,
+the surface of its light blue-gray rock being stained
+to a dark red, or a light red as the case might be, by the
+iron from the sandstone walls above. There were a
+thousand feet of these sandstone layers, red in all its
+varying hues, capped by the four-hundred foot cross-bedded
+sandstone wall, breaking sheer, ranging in tone
+from a soft buff to a golden yellow, with a bloom, or glow,
+as though illuminated from within. As we proceeded,
+another layer could be seen above this, the same limestone
+and with the same fossils—an examination of the rock-slides
+told us—as the topmost formation at the Grand
+Canyon. This was not unlike the cross-bedded sandstone
+in colour, but lacked its warmth and richness of tint.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198"></span>A close, examination of the rocks revealed many colours,
+that figured but little in the grand colour scheme of the
+canyon as a whole—the detailed ornamentation of
+the magnificent rock structure. A fracture of wall
+would show the true colour of the rock, beneath the stain;
+lime crystals studded its surface, like gems glinting
+in the sunlight; beautifully tinted jasper, resembling the
+petrified wood found in another part of Arizona, was
+embedded in the marble wall,—usually at the point of
+contact with another formation,—polished by the sands
+of the turbid river.</p>
+
+<p>All this told us that we were coming into our own.
+Four of the seven notable divisions of rock strata found
+in the Grand Canyon were now represented in Marble
+Canyon, and soon the green shale, which underlies the
+blue limestone, began to crop out by the river as the walls
+grew higher and the stream cut deeper.</p>
+
+<p>One turn of the canyon revealed a break where Stanton
+hid his provisions in a cave—after a second fatality in
+which two more of this ill-fated expedition lost their
+lives—and climbed out on top. Afterwards he re-outfitted
+with heavier boats and tackled the stream again.</p>
+
+<p>Just below this break the scene changed as we made
+a sharp turn to the left. Vasey’s Paradise—named by
+Major Powell after Dr. Geo. W. Vasey, botanist of the
+United States Department of Agriculture—was disclosed
+to view. Beautiful streams gushed from rounded
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199"></span>holes, fifty yards above the river. The rock walls reminded
+one of an ivy-covered castle of old England,
+guarded by a moat uncrossed by any drawbridge. It
+was trellised with vines, maidenhair ferns, and water-moss
+making a vivid green background for the golden yellow
+and burnished copper leaves which still clung to some
+small cottonwood trees—the only trees we had seen in
+Marble Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>In our haste to push on, we left the brass motion-picture
+tripod head on an island, from which we pictured
+this lovely spot. A rapid was put behind us before we
+noticed our loss, and there was no going back then.</p>
+
+<p>Another turn revealed a Gothic arch, or grotto, carved
+at the bend of the wall by the high water, with an overhang
+of more than a hundred feet, and a height nearly as great,
+for the flood waters ran above the hundred-foot stage in
+this narrow walled section. Then came a gloomy, prison-like
+formation, with a “Bridge of Sighs” two hundred
+feet above a gulch, connecting the dungeon to the perpendicular
+wall beyond; and with a hundred cave-like
+openings in its sheer sides like small windows, admitting
+a little daylight into its dark interior. The sullen boom
+of a rapid around the turn sounded like the march of an
+army coming up the gorge, so we climbed back into our
+boats after a vain attempt to climb up to some of the
+caves, and advanced to meet our foe. This rapid—the
+tenth for the day—while it was clear of rocks, had an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200"></span>abrupt drop, with powerful waves which did all sorts of
+things to us and to our boats; breaking a rowlock and the
+four pieces of line which held it, and flooding us both with
+a ton of water. We went into camp a short distance below
+this, in a narrow box canyon running back a hundred
+yards from the river, a gloomy, cathedral-like interior,
+with sheer walls rising several hundred feet on three
+sides of us, and with the top of the south wall 2500 feet
+above us in plain sight of our camp, the one camp in
+Marble Canyon where our sleep was undisturbed by
+the roar of a rapid. But instead of the roar of a rapid, a
+howling wind swept down from the Painted Desert
+above, piling the mingled desert sands and river sands
+about our beds, scattering our camp material over the
+bottom of the narrow gorge.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this camp—the fourth and the last in
+Marble Canyon—was left behind us, the walls began to
+widen out, especially on the north-northwest, and by noon
+we had passed from the narrow, direct canyon, into one
+with slopes and plateaus breaking the sheer walls, the wall
+on the left or southeast side being much the lower of the
+two, and more nearly perpendicular, rising to a height of
+3200 feet, while the northwest side lifted up to the Kaibab
+Plateau, one point—miles back from the river—rising
+6000 feet above us.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_200-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_200-fp.jpg" alt="Steep canyon walls rise on both sides of the river. A boat is at the top of a narrow rapids.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">APPROACHING THE GRAND CANYON. NOTE BOAT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We halted at noon beside the Nancoweep Valley, a
+wide tributary heading many miles back in the plateau on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201"></span>the right, with a ramified series of canyons running into
+it, and with great expanses of sage-covered flats between.
+Deer tracks were found on these flats, deer which came
+down from the forest of the Buckskin Mountains. This
+was the point selected by Major Powell for the construction
+of a trail when he returned from his voyage of exploration
+to study the geology of this section. The
+trail, although neglected for many years, is still used by
+prospectors from Kanab, Utah, who make a yearly trip
+into the canyons to do some work on a mineral ledge
+a few miles below here.</p>
+
+<p>What a glorious, exhilarating run we had that day!
+From here to the end of Marble Canyon the rapids were
+almost continuous, with few violent drops and seldom
+broken by the usual quiet pools. It was the finest kind
+of water for fast travelling, and we made the most of it.
+The only previous run we had made that could in any way
+compare with it was in Whirlpool and Split Mountain
+canyons, when the high water was on. As we travelled,
+occasional glimpses were had of familiar places on Greenland
+Point—that thirty-mile peninsula of the Kaibab
+Plateau extending between Marble Canyon and the
+Grand Canyon—where we had gone deer-hunting, or on
+photographic expeditions with Rust.</p>
+
+<p>Another valley from the right was passed, then a peak
+rose before us close to the river, with its flat top rising
+to a height equal to the south wall. This was Chuar
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202"></span>Butte. Once more we were in a narrow canyon, narrowed
+by this peak, but a canyon just the same. Soon we were
+below a wall we once had photographed from the mouth
+of the Little Colorado; then the stream itself came in
+view and we were soon anchored beside it. This was the
+beginning of the Grand Canyon.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_203"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">
+    CHAPTER XIX</h3>
+<h4>SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">How</span> long we had waited for this view! How many
+memories it recalled—and how different it seemed to our
+previous visit there! Then, the high water was on, and
+the turquoise-tinted mineral water of the Colorado
+Chiquito was backed up by the turbid flood waters of
+the Rio Colorado, forty feet or more above the present
+level. Now it was a rapid stream, throwing itself with
+wild abandon over the rocks and into the Colorado.
+There was the same deserted stone hut, built by a
+French prospector, many years before, and a plough that
+he had packed in over a thirty-mile trail—the most difficult
+one in all this rugged region! There was the little
+grass-plot where we pastured the burro, while we made a
+fifteen-mile walk up the bed of this narrow canyon!
+What a hard, hot journey it had been! A year and a half
+ago we sat on that rock, and talked of the day when we
+should come through here in boats! Even then we talked
+of building a raft, and of loading the burro on it for a spin
+on the flood waters. Lucky for us and for the burro
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204"></span>that we didn’t! We understand the temper of these
+waters now.</p>
+
+<p>Cape Desolation, a point of the Painted Desert on
+the west side of the Little Colorado, was almost directly
+above us, 3200 feet high. Chuar Butte, equally as high
+and with walls just as nearly perpendicular, extended
+on into the Grand Canyon on the right side, making the
+narrowest canyon of this depth that we had seen. The
+Navajo reservation terminated at the Little Colorado,
+although nothing but the maps indicated that we had
+passed from the land of the Red man to that of the White.
+Both were equally desolate, and equally wonderful.
+With the entrance of the new stream the canyon changes
+its southwest trend and turns directly west, and continues
+to hold to this general direction until the northwest
+corner of Arizona is reached.</p>
+
+<p>But we must be on again! Soon familiar segregated
+peaks in the Grand Canyon began to appear. There
+was Wotan’s Throne on the right, and the “Copper
+Mine Mesa” on the left. Three or four miles below
+the junction a four-hundred foot perpendicular wall
+rose above us. The burro, on our previous visit, was
+almost shoved off that cliff when the pack caught on a
+rock, and was only saved by strenuous pulling on the
+neck-rope and pack harness. Soon we passed some
+tunnels on both sides of the river where the Mormon
+miners had tapped a copper ledge. At 4.15 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205"></span>were at the end of the Tanner Trail, the outlet of the Little
+Colorado Trail to the rim above. It had taken seven
+hours of toil to cover the same ground we now sped over
+in an hour and a quarter. Major Powell, in 1872,
+found here the remnant of a very small hut built of mesquite logs,
+but whether the remains of an Indian’s or
+white man’s shelter cannot be stated. The trail, without
+doubt was used by the Indians before the white man invaded
+this region.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp51" id="i_204a-fp" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_204a-fp.jpg" alt="Canyon walls slope away from the calm river, giving a wide view of the sky.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">END OF MARBLE CANYON, FROM THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp52" id="i_204b-fp" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_204b-fp.jpg" alt="A rock-strewn stretch of river lies between canyon walls.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CATARACTS OF THE LITTLE COLORADO RIVER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The canyon had changed again from one which was
+very narrow to one much more complex, greater, and
+grander. The walls on top were many miles apart;
+Comanche Point, to our left, was over 4000 feet above us;
+Desert View, Moran Point, and other points on the
+south rim were even higher. On the right we could
+see an arch near Cape Final on Greenland Point, over
+5000 feet up, that we had photographed, from the top,
+a few years before. Pagoda-shaped temples—the formation
+so typical of the Grand Canyon—clustered on all
+sides. The upper walls were similar in tint to those
+in Marble Canyon, but here at the river was a new formation;
+the algonkian, composed of thousands of brilliantly
+coloured bands of rock, standing at an angle—the one
+irregularity to the uniform layers of rock—a remnant
+of thousands of feet of rock which once covered this
+region, then was planed away before the other deposits
+were placed. All about us, close to the river, was a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206"></span>deep, soft sand formed by the disintegration of the rocks
+above, as brilliantly coloured as the rocks from which
+they came. What had been a very narrow stream
+above here spread out over a thousand feet wide, ran
+with a good current, and seemed to be anything but a
+shallow stream at that.</p>
+
+<p>We had travelled far that day but still sped on,—with
+a few rapids which did not retard, but rather helped us
+on our way, and with a good current between these
+rapids,—only stopping to camp when a three-hundred
+foot wall rose sheer from the river’s edge, bringing to an
+end our basin-like river bottom, where one could walk
+out on either side. It was not necessary to hunt for
+driftwood this evening, for a thicket of mesquite—the
+best of all wood for a camp-fire—grew out of the sand-dunes,
+and some half-covered dead logs were unearthed
+from the drifted sand, and soon reduced to glowing coals.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, we were enjoying one of those remarkable
+Arizona desert sunsets. Ominous clouds had been
+gathering in the afternoon, rising from the southwest,
+drifting across the canyon, and piling up against the
+north wall. A few fleecy clouds in the west partially
+obscured the sun until it neared the horizon, then a
+shaft of sunlight broke through once more, telegraphing
+its approach long before it reached us, the rays being
+visibly hurled through space like a javelin, or a lightning
+bolt, striking peak after peak so that one almost imagined
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207"></span>they would hear the thunder roll. A yellow flame
+covered the western sky, to be succeeded in a few minutes
+by a crimson glow. The sharply defined colours of the
+different layers of rock had merged and softened, as the
+sun dropped from sight; purple shadows crept into the
+cavernous depths, while shafts of gold shot to the very
+tiptop of the peaks, or threw their shadows like silhouettes
+on the wall beyond. Then the scene shifted again, and it
+was all blood-red, reflecting from the sky and staining
+the rocks below, so that distant wall and sky merged,
+with little to show where the one ended and the other
+began. That beautiful haze, which tints, but does not
+obscure, enshrouded the temples and spires, changing
+from heliotrope to lavender, from lavender to deepest
+purple; there was a departing flare of flame like the collapse
+of a burning building; a few clouds in the zenith,
+torn by the winds so that they resembled the craters
+of the moon, were tinted for an instant around the crater’s
+rims; the clouds faded to a dove-like gray; they darkened;
+the gray disappeared; the purple crept from the canyon
+into the arched dome overhead; the day was ended,
+twilight passed, and darkness settled over all.</p>
+
+<p>We sat silently by the fire for a few minutes, then
+rose and resumed our evening’s work. This camp
+was at a point that could be seen from the Grand View
+hotel, fourteen miles from our home. We talked of
+building a signal fire on the promontory above the camp,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208"></span>knowing that the news would be telephoned to our
+home if the fire was seen. But we gave up the plan.
+Although less than twenty miles from Bright Angel
+Trail, we were not safely through by any means. Two
+boats had been wrecked or lost in different rapids less than
+six miles from this camp. The forty-foot fall in the
+Hance or Red Canyon Rapid was three miles below us;
+the Sockdologer, the Grapevine, and other rapids nearly
+as large followed those; we might be no more fortunate
+than the others, and a delay after once giving a signal
+would cause more anxiety than no signal at all we
+thought, and the fire was not built.</p>
+
+<p>Particular attention was paid to the loading of the
+boats the next morning. The moving-picture film was
+tucked in the toes of our sleeping bags, and the protecting
+bags were carefully laced. We were not going to take
+any chances in this next plunge—the much-talked-of
+entrance to the granite gorge. A half-hour’s run and a
+dash through one violent rapid landed us at the end of
+the Hance Trail—unused for tourist travel for several
+years—with a few torn and tattered tents back in
+the side canyon down which the trail wound its way.
+We half hoped that we would find some of the prospectors
+who make this section their winter home either
+at the Tanner or the Hance Trail, but there was no sign of
+recent visitors at either place, unless it was the numerous
+burro tracks in the sand. These tracks were doubtless
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209"></span>made by some of the many wild burros that roam all
+the lower plateaus in the upper end of the Grand
+Canyon.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp98" id="i_208-fp" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_208-fp.jpg" alt="A man, standing on a rocky shore, looks across the river at a sloping canyon wall.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">END OF HANCE TRAIL. SMALL WHITE LINE IS AN INTRUSION OF QUARTZ IN THE ALGONKIAN.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>After a careful inspection of the Hance Rapid we
+were glad the signal fire was not built. It was a nasty
+rapid. While reading over our notes one evening we
+were amused to find that we had catalogued different
+rapids with an equal amount of fall as “good,” “bad,” or
+“nasty,” the difference depending nearly altogether on
+the rocks in the rapids. The “good rapids” were nothing
+but a descent of “big water,” with great waves,—for
+which we cared little, but rather enjoyed if it was not
+too cold,—and with no danger from rocks; the “bad
+rapids” contained rocks, and twisting channels, but
+with half a chance of getting through. A nasty rapid
+was filled with rocks, many of them so concealed in the
+foam that it was often next to impossible to tell if rocks
+were there or not, and in which there was little chance
+of running through without smashing a boat. The
+Hance Rapid was such a one.</p>
+
+<p>Such a complication of twisted channels and protruding
+rocks we had not seen unless it was at Hell’s
+Half Mile. It meant a portage—nothing less—the
+second since leaving that other rapid in Lodore. So
+we went to work, carrying our duffle across deep, soft
+sand-dunes, down to the middle of the rapid, where
+quieted for a hundred yards before it made the final
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210"></span>plunge. The gathering dusk of evening found all material
+and one boat at this spot, with the other one at
+the head of the rapid, to be portaged the next day.
+But we did not portage this boat. A good night’s rest,
+and the safeguard of a boat at the bottom of the plunge
+made it look much less dangerous, and five minutes after
+breakfast was finished, this boat was beside its mate,
+and we had a reel of film which we hoped would show
+just how we successfully ran this difficult rapid. While
+going over the second section, on the opposite side
+of the river, Emery was thrown out of his boat for an
+instant when the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> touched a rock in a twenty-five
+mile an hour current, similar to my first upset in the
+Soap Creek Rapid—the old story: out again; in
+again; on again—landing in safety at the end of the
+rapid not one whit the worse for the spill.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_210-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_210-fp.jpg" alt="A boat is in the running river. Sunlight and shadows play on the canyon walls.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">IN THE GRANITE GORGE BELOW THE SOCKDOLOGER RAPID. EXTREME HEIGHT OF WALL ABOUT FIVE   THOUSAND FEET.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>This rapid marks the place where the granite, or igneous
+rock, intrudes, rising at a sharp angle, sloping
+upward down the stream, reaching the height of 1300 feet
+about one mile below. It marks the end of the large
+deposit of algonkian. The granite, when it attains its
+highest point, is covered with a 200-foot layer of
+sedimentary rock called the tonto sandstone. The
+top of this formation is exposed by a plateau from a
+quarter of a mile to three miles in width, on either
+side of the granite gorge; the same walls which were
+found in Marble Canyon rise above this. The temples
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211"></span>which are scattered through the canyon—equal in
+height, in many cases, to the walls—have their foundation
+on this plateau. These peaks contain the same
+stratified rock with a uniform thickness whether in
+peak or wall, with little displacement and little sign
+of violent uplift, nearly all this canyon being the work of
+erosion: 5000 feet from the rim to the river; the edges
+of six great layers of sedimentary rock laid bare and with
+a narrow 1300-foot gorge through the igneous rock
+below—the Grand Canyon of Arizona.</p>
+
+<p>The granite gorge seemed to us to be the one place
+of all others that we had seen on this trip that would
+cause one to hesitate a long time before entering, if nothing
+definite was known of its nature. Another person
+might have felt the same way of the canyons we had
+passed, Lodore or Marble Canyon, for instance. A
+great deal depends on the nerves and digestion, no doubt;
+and the same person would look at it in a different light
+at different times, as we found from our own experiences.
+Our digestions were in excellent condition just at that
+time, and we were nerved up by the thought that we
+were going “to the plate for a home run” if possible, yet
+the granite gorge had a decidedly sinister look. The walls,
+while not sheer, were nearly so; they might be climbed in
+many places to the top of the granite; but the tonto sandstone
+wall nearly always overhangs this, breaks sheer,
+and seldom affords an outlet to the plateaus above, except
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212"></span>where lateral canyons cut through. The rocks are very
+dark, with dikes of quartz, and with twisting seams of red
+and black granite, the great body of rock being made up
+of decomposed micaceous schists and gneiss, a treacherous
+material to climb. The entrance to this gorge is
+made on a quiet pool with no shore on either side after
+once well in.</p>
+
+<p>But several parties had been through since Major
+Powell made his initial trip, so we did not hesitate, but
+pushed on with the current. Now we could truly say
+that we were going home. The Hance Rapid was behind
+us; Bright Angel Creek was about twelve miles
+away. Soon we were in the deepest part of the gorge.
+Great dikes and uplifts of jagged rocks towered above
+us; and up, up, up, lifted the other walls above that.
+Bissell Point, on the very top, could plainly be seen from
+our quiet pool.</p>
+
+<p>Then came a series of rapids quite different from the
+Hance Rapid, and many others found above. Those
+others were usually caused in part by the detritus or deposit
+from side canyons, which dammed the stream, and
+what might be a swift stream, with a continuous drop,
+was transformed to a succession of mill-ponds and cataracts,
+or rapids. In nearly every case, in low water such
+as we were travelling on, the deposit made a shore on
+which we could land and inspect the rapid from below.
+The swift water invariably makes a narrow channel
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213"></span>if it has no obstruction in its way; it is the quiet stream
+that makes a wide channel. But the rapids we found
+this day were nearly all different. They were seldom
+caused by great deposits of rock, but appeared to be
+formed by a dike or ledge of hard rock rising from the
+softer rock—the same intrusion being sometimes found
+on both sides of the stream—forming a dam the full
+width of the channel, over which the water made a swift
+descent, with a long line of interference waves below.
+But for a cold wind which swept up the stream, this style
+of rapid was more to our fancy. These were “good
+rapids,” the “best” we had seen. There were few
+rocks to avoid. Some of the rapids were violent, but
+careful handling took us past every danger. There
+was little chance to make a portage at several of these
+places had we desired to do so. We gave them but a
+glance from the decks of the boats, then dropped into
+them. In one instance I saw the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> literally shoot
+through a wave bow first, both ends of the boat being
+visible, while her captain was buried in the foam.</p>
+
+<p>We had learned to discriminate by its noise, long
+before we could see a rapid, whether it was filled with
+rocks, or was merely a descent of big water. The latter,
+often just as impressive as the former, had a sullen, steady
+boom; the rocky rapids had the same sound, punctuated
+by another sound, like the crack of regiments of musketry.
+All were greatly magnified in sound by the narrow, echoing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214"></span>walls. We became so accustomed to this noise that
+we almost forgot it was there, and it was only after the
+long, quiet stretches that the noise was noticed. In a
+few instances only we noticed the shattering vibration
+of air that is associated with waterfalls. Still there is
+noise enough in many rapids so that their boom can be
+heard several miles away from the top of the canyons.</p>
+
+<p>Guided by these sounds, and aided by our method of
+holding the boat in mid-stream, while making a <a id=“chg1”></a>reconnaissance,
+we were quite well aware of what we were
+likely to find before we anchored above a rapid. We
+were never fearful of being drawn into a cataract without
+having a chance to land somewhere. The water is
+strangely quiet, to a comparatively close distance above
+nearly all rapids. We usually tied up anywhere from
+fifty feet to a hundred yards above a drop, before inspecting
+it. If it was a “big-water” rapid, we usually looked
+it over standing on the seat in the boats, then continued.
+By signals with the hands, the one first over would guide
+the other, if any hidden rocks or dangerous channel
+threatened. While we did not think much about it,
+we usually noted the places where one might climb out
+on the plateau. Little could be told about the upper
+walls from the river.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_214-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_214-fp.jpg" alt="A metal cage runs on wheels over a cable that crosses the river between canyon walls. Two men at the shoreline watch the tram from below.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE RUST TRAMWAY. SPAN FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTY FEET.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A chilling wind swept up the river, penetrating our
+soaked garments. But we paid little attention to this,
+only pulling the harder, not only to keep the circulation
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215"></span>going, but every pull of the oars put us that much nearer
+home. We never paused in our rowing until we anchored
+at 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> under Rust’s tramway, close to the mouth
+of Bright Angel Creek. According to the United States
+Geological Survey there is a descent of 178 feet from the
+head of the Hance Rapid to the end of Bright Angel
+Trail one mile below the creek. We would have a
+very moderate descent in that mile. The run from the
+Hance Rapid had been made in less than five hours.</p>
+
+<p>Our boats were tied in the shadow of the cage hanging
+from a cable sixty feet above. It stretched across a quiet
+pool, 450 feet across—for the river is dammed by débris
+from the creek below, and fills the channel from wall to
+wall. Hurriedly we made our way up to Rust’s camp,—closed
+for the winter; for heavy snows would cover
+the North Rim in a few days or a few weeks at the farthest,
+filling the trails with heavy drifts and driving the
+cougar into the canyon where dogs and horses cannot
+follow. But the latch-string was out for us, we knew,
+had we cared to use the tents. Our signal fire was built
+a mile above the camp, at a spot that was plainly visible
+on a clear day from our home on the other side, six miles
+away as the crow flies. We had often looked at this spot,
+with a telescope, from the veranda of our studio, watching
+the hunting and sight-seeing parties ride up the bed
+of the stream. We rather feared the drifting clouds and
+mists would hide the fire from view, but now and then
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216"></span>a rift appeared, and we knew if they were looking they
+could see its light. Camp No. 51 was made close to
+Bright Angel Creek, that evening, Thursday, October
+the 16th, two months and eight days from the time we
+had embarked on our journey.</p>
+
+<p>Three or four hours were spent in packing our material
+the next morning, so it could be stored in a miners’
+tunnel, near the end of the trail. We would pack little
+of this out, as we intended to resume our river work in a
+week or ten days. A five-minute run took us over the
+rapid below Bright Angel Creek, and down to a bend in
+the river, just above the Cameron or Bright Angel Trail.
+Two men—guides from the hotel—called to us as our
+boats swept into view. We made a quick dash over the
+vicious little drop below the bend,—easy for our boats,
+but dangerous enough for lighter craft on account of a
+difficult whirlpool,—and were soon on shore greeting
+old friends. Up on the plateau, 1300 feet above, a trail
+party of tourists and guides called down their welcome.
+The stores were put in the miners’ tunnel as we had
+planned, and the boats were taken above the high-water
+mark; placed in dry dock one might say.</p>
+
+<p>The guides had good news for us and bad news too.
+Emery’s wife had been ill with appendicitis nearly all
+the time we were on our journey. We had received
+letters from her at every post-office excepting Lee’s Ferry,
+but never a hint that all was not well. She knew it would
+break up the trip. Pretty good nerve, we thought!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_217"></span></p>
+
+<p>Ragged and weary, but happy; a little lean and over-trained,
+but feeling entirely “fit,”—we commenced our
+seven-mile climb up the trail, every turn of which seemed
+like an old friend. When 1300 feet above the river, our
+little workshop beside a stream on the plateau—only
+used at intervals when no water can be had on top, and
+closed for three months past—gave us our first cheerless
+greeting. Although little more than a hundred feet from
+the trail, we did not stop to inspect it. Cameron’s Indian
+Garden Camp was also closed for the day, and we were
+disappointed in a hope that we could telephone to our
+home, 3200 feet above. But the tents, under rows of
+waving cottonwoods, and surrounded by beds of blooming
+roses and glorious chrysanthemums, gave us a more
+cheerful welcome than our little building below. We
+only stopped to quench our thirst in the bubbling spring,
+then began the four-mile climb that would put us on top
+of the towering cliff. Soon we overtook the party we
+had seen on the plateau. Some of the tourists kindly
+offered us their mules, but mules were too slow for us,
+and they were soon far below us. Calls, faint at first,
+but growing louder as we advanced, came floating down
+from above. On nearing the top our younger brother
+Ernest, who had come on from <a id="Pittsburg"></a>Pittsburg to look after
+our business, came running down the trail to greet us.
+One member of a troupe of moving-picture actors, in
+cowboy garb, remarked that we “didn’t look like moving-picture
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218"></span>explorers”; then little Edith emerged from our
+studio just below the head of Bright Angel Trail and
+came skipping down toward us, but stopped suddenly
+when near us, and said smilingly:</p>
+
+<p>“Is that my Daddy with all those whiskers?”</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_218-fp" style="max-width: 59.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_218-fp.jpg" alt="Close canyon walls confine a small creek full of rocks.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">BRIGHT ANGEL CREEK AND CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">
+    CHAPTER XX</h3>
+<h4>ONE MONTH LATER
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Naturally</span> we were very impatient to know just
+what success we had met with in our photographic work.
+Some of the motion pictures had been printed and returned
+to us. My brother, who meanwhile had taken
+his family to Los Angeles, sent very encouraging reports
+regarding some of the films.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Canyon visitors who came down to inspect
+the results of our trip were Thomas Moran, the famous
+artist, with his daughter, Miss Ruth, whose interest was
+more than casual. Thomas Moran’s name, more than any
+other, with the possible exception of Major Powell’s, is
+to be associated with the Grand Canyon. It was his
+painting which hangs in the capital at Washington that
+first acquainted the American public with the wonders
+of the Canyon. This painting was the result of a journey
+he made with Major Powell, from Salt Lake City to the
+north side of the Canyon, thirty-eight years before.
+In addition he had made most of the cuts that illustrated
+Major Powell’s government report; making his sketches
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220"></span>on wood from photographs this expedition had taken
+with the old-fashioned wet plates that had to be coated
+and developed on the spot—wonderful photographs,
+which for beauty, softness, and detail are not excelled,
+and are scarcely equalled by more modern plates and
+photographic results. The only great advantage of
+the dry plates was the fact that they could catch the
+action of the water with an instantaneous exposure, where
+the wet plates had to have a long exposure and lost that
+action.</p>
+
+<p>Thomas Moran could pick up almost any picture that
+we made, and tell us at once just what section it came
+from and its identifying characteristics. His daughter,
+Miss Ruth, was just as much interested in our trip and
+its results. She was anxious to know when we would go
+on again and planned on making the trail trip down to
+the plateau to see us take the plunge over the first rough
+rapid. She was just a little anxious to see an upset,
+and asked if we could not promise that one would occur.</p>
+
+<p>A month passed before my brother returned from Los
+Angeles. His wife, who had remained there, was in
+good health again, and insisted on his finishing the trip
+at once. We were just as anxious to have it finished, but
+were not very enthusiastic about this last part on account
+of some very cold weather we had been having. On
+the other hand, we feared if the trip was not finished then
+it might never be completed. So we consoled ourselves
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221"></span>with the thought that it was some warmer at the bottom
+than it was on top, and prepared to make the final plunge—350
+miles to Needles, with a 1600-foot descent in the
+185 miles that remained of the Grand Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>A foot of snow had fallen two nights before we planned
+on leaving. The thermometer had dropped to zero, and a
+little below on one occasion, during the nights for a week
+past. Close to the top the trail was filled with drifts.
+The walls were white with snow down to the plateau,
+3200 feet below; something unusual, as it seldom descends
+as snow lower than two thousand feet, but turns
+to rain. But a week of cold, cloudy weather, accompanied
+by hard winds, had driven all warmth from the canyon,
+allowing this snow to descend lower than usual. Under
+such conditions the damp cold in the canyon, while not
+registered on the thermometer as low as that on top, is
+more penetrating. Very little sun reaches the bottom
+of the inner gorge in December and January. It is
+usually a few degrees colder than the inner plateau
+above it, which is open, and does get some sun. These
+were the conditions when we returned to our boats
+December the 19th, 1911, and found a thin covering of
+ice on small pools near the river.</p>
+
+<p>Our party was enlarged by the addition of two men
+who were anxious for some river experience. One was
+our younger brother, Ernest. We agreed to take him
+as far as the Bass Trail, twenty-five miles below, where
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222"></span>he could get out on top and return to our home. The
+other was a young man named Bert Lauzon, who wanted
+to make the entire trip, and we were glad to have him.
+Lauzon, although but 24 years old, had been a quartz
+miner and mining engineer for some years. Coming
+from the mountains of Colorado, he had travelled over
+most of the Western states, and a considerable part of
+Mexico, in his expeditions. There was no question in
+our minds about Lauzon. He was the man we needed.</p>
+
+<p>To offset the weight of an extra man for each boat,
+our supplies were cut to the minimum, arrangements
+having been made with W. W. Bass—the proprietor
+of the Bass Camps and of the Mystic Springs Trail—to
+have some provisions packed in over his trail. What
+provisions we took ourselves were packed down on two
+mules, and anything we could spare from our boats was
+packed out on the same animals. As we were about
+ready to leave a friendly miner said: “You can’t hook
+fish in the Colorado in the winter, they won’t bite nohow.
+You’d better take a couple of sticks of my giant-powder
+along. That will help you get ’em, and it may keep you
+from starving.” Under the circumstances it seemed like
+a wise precaution and we took his giant-powder, as he
+had suggested.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="i_222a-fp" style="max-width: 44.4375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_222a-fp.jpg" alt="A tree bearing the sign 'Head of Bright Angel Trail' is on the left. Two men are heading through ankle-deep snow towards the canyon. One lifts his hat to wave good-bye.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LEAVING HOME, DEC. 19, 1911.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp52" id="i_222b-fp" style="max-width: 43.9375em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_222b-fp.jpg" alt="Turbulent water flows between two canyon walls.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A COMPOSITE PHOTOGRAPH OF MARBLE CANYON    WALLS AND A GRAND CANYON RAPID.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The river had fallen two feet below the stage on
+which we quit a month before. A scale of foot-marks
+on a rock wall rising from the river showed that the water
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223"></span>was twenty-seven feet deep at that spot. No measurement
+was made in the middle of the river channel. The
+current here between two small rapids flows at five
+and three-fourths miles per hour. The width of the stream
+is close to 250 feet. The high-water mark here is forty-five
+feet above the low-water stage, then the river spreads
+to five hundred feet in width, running with a swiftness
+and strength of current and whirlpool that is tremendous.
+The highest authentic measurement in a narrow channel,
+of which we know, is one made by Julius F. Stone in
+Marble Canyon. He recorded one spot where the high-water
+mark was 115 feet above the low-water mark.
+These figures might look large at first, but if they
+are compared with some of the floods on the Ohio
+River, for instance, and that stream were boxed in a
+two hundred foot channel the difference would not be
+great, we imagine.</p>
+
+<p>One of the young men who greeted us when we landed
+came down with a companion to see us embark. On
+the plateau 1300 feet above, looking like small insects
+against the sky-line, was a trail party, equally interested.
+They did not stand on the point usually visited by such
+parties but had gone to a point about a mile to the west,
+where they had a good view of a short, rough rapid,
+the little rapid below the trail, while it was no place
+that one would care to swim in, had no comparison with
+this other rapid in violence. We had promised the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224"></span>party that we would run this rapid that afternoon, so
+we spent little time in packing systematically, but hurriedly
+threw the stuff in and embarked. Less than an
+hour later we had made the two-mile run and the dash
+through the short rapid, to the entire satisfaction of all
+concerned.</p>
+
+<p>We camped a short distance below the rapid, just
+opposite a grave of a man whose skeleton had been found
+halfway up the granite, five years before. Judging by
+his clothes and hob-nailed shoes he was a prospector.
+He was lying in a natural position, with his head resting
+on a rock. An overcoat was buttoned tightly about him.
+No large bones were broken, but he might have had a
+fall and been injured internally. More likely he became
+sick and died. The small bones of the hands and feet
+had been taken away by field-mice, and no doubt the
+turkey-buzzards had stripped the flesh. His pockets
+contained Los Angeles newspapers of 1900; he was found
+in 1906. The pockets also contained a pipe and a pocket-knife,
+but nothing by which he could be identified. The
+coroner’s jury—of which my brother was a member—buried
+him where he was found, covering the body with
+rocks, for there was no earth.</p>
+
+<p>Such finds are not unusual in this rugged country.
+These prospectors seldom say where they are going, no
+track is kept of their movements, and unless something
+about their clothes tells who they are, their identity is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225"></span>seldom established. The proximity of this grave made
+us wonder how many more such unburied bodies there
+were along this river. We thought too of our friend
+Smith, back in Cataract Canyon, and wondered if we
+would hear from him again.</p>
+
+<p>Our helpers got a lot of experience in motion-picture
+making the next day, while we ran our boats through a
+number of good, strong rapids, well known locally as the
+Salt Creek Rapid, Granite Falls or Monument Rapid,
+the Hermit, the Bouchere, and others. This was all
+new to the boys, and provided some thrilling entertainment
+for them. When a difficult passage was safely
+made Bert would wave his hat and yell “Hoo” in a deep,
+long call that would carry above the roar of the rapids,
+then he and Ernest would follow along the shore with
+their cameras, as these rapids all had a shore on one
+side or the other. The sun shone on the river this day,
+and we congratulated ourselves on having made the most
+of our opportunities.</p>
+
+<p>In our first rapid the next morning, we had to carry
+our passengers whether we wanted to or not. There
+was no shore on either side. In such plunges they would
+lie down on the deck of the boat behind the oarsman,
+holding to the raised bulkhead, ducking their heads when
+an oncoming wave prepared to break over them. Then
+they would shake themselves as a water-spaniel does,
+and Bert with a grin would say,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_226"></span></p>
+
+<p>“Young fellows, business is picking up!”</p>
+
+<p>Ernest agreed, too, that he had never seen anything
+in Pittsburg that quite equalled it. If the rapid was not
+bad, they sat upright on the deck, but this made the
+boats top-heavy, and as much of the oarsman’s work
+depended on swinging his weight from side to side, it
+was important that no mistake should be made about
+this distribution of weight. Often the bottom of a boat
+would show above the water as it listed to one side. At
+such a time a person sitting on the raised deck might get
+thrown overboard.</p>
+
+<p>Before starting on this last trip we had thought it
+would be only right to give our younger brother a ride in
+a rapid that would be sure to give him a good ducking,
+as his experience was going to be short. But the water
+and the wind, especially in the shadows, was so very
+cold that we gave this plan up, and avoided the waves
+as much as possible. He got a ducking this morning,
+however, in a place where we least expected it. It was
+not a rapid, just smooth, very swift water, while close
+to the right shore there was one submerged rock with a
+foot of water shooting over it, in such a way that it made
+a “reverse whirl” as they are called in Alaska—water
+rolling back upstream, and from all sides as well, to
+fill the vacuum just below the rock. This one was about
+twelve feet across; the water disappeared as though it
+was being poured down a manhole.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_226-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_226-fp.jpg" alt="Huge boulders fill the river, churning the water; a tiny boat in the distance prepares to run the rapids through the boulders.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE “EDITH” (ON LEFT OF CENTRAL ROCK) IN GRANITE FALLS.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227"></span></p>
+
+<p>The least care, or caution, would have taken me clear
+this place; but the smooth water was so deceptive,
+and was so much stronger than I had judged it to be,
+that I found myself caught sideways to the current,
+hemmed in with waves on all sides of the boat, knocked
+back and forth, and resisted in all my efforts to pull
+clear. The boat was gradually filling with the splashing
+water. Ernest was lying on the deck, hanging on like
+grim death, slipping off, first on one side, then on the
+other, and wondering what was going to happen. So was
+I. To be held up in the middle of a swift stream was a
+new experience, and I was not proud of it. The others
+passed as soon as they saw what had happened, and
+were waiting in an eddy below. Perhaps we were there
+only one minute, but it seemed like five. I helped Ernest
+into the cockpit. About that time the boat filled with
+splashing water and sunk low, the stream poured over
+the rock and into the boat, and she upset instantly.</p>
+
+<p>Ernest had on two life-preservers, and came up about
+thirty feet below, swimming very well considering that
+he was weighted with heavy clothes and high-topped
+shoes. The boys pulled him in before he was carried
+against a threatening wall. Meanwhile, I held to the
+boat, which was forced out as soon as she was overturned,
+and climbed on top, or rather on the bottom. I was
+trying to make the best of things and was giving a cheer
+when some one said,</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228"></span></p>
+
+<p>“There goes your hatch cover and you’ve lost the
+motion-picture camera.”</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps I had. My cheering ceased. The camera
+had been hurriedly shoved down in the hatch a few minutes
+before.</p>
+
+<p>On being towed to shore, however, we found the
+camera had not fallen out. It had been shoved to the
+side less than one inch, but that little bit had saved it.
+It was filled with water, though, and all the pictures
+were on the unfinished roll in the camera, and were ruined.
+We had been in the ice-cold water long enough to lose
+that glow which comes after a quick immersion and were
+chilled through; but what bothered me more than anything
+else was the fact that I had been caught in such a
+trap after successfully running the bad rapids above.
+We made a short run after that so as to get out of sight
+of the deceptive place, then proceeded to dry out. The
+ruined film came in handy for kindling our camp-fire.</p>
+
+<p>We were now in the narrowest part of the upper portion
+of the Grand Canyon, the distance from rim to rim
+at one point being close to six miles. The width at
+Bright Angel varied from eight to fourteen miles. The
+peaks rising from the plateau, often as high as the canyon
+walls, and with flat tops a mile or more in width, made
+the canyon even narrower, so that at times we were in
+canyons close to a mile in depth, and little over four
+miles across at the tops.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229"></span></p>
+
+<p>In this section of the granite there were few places
+where one could climb out. Nearly all the lateral canyons
+ended quite a distance above the river, then fell
+sheer; the lower parts of the walls were quite often smooth-surfaced,
+where they were polished by the sands in the
+stream. The black granite in such cases resembled huge
+deposits of anthracite coal. Sections of the granite
+often projected out of the water as islands, with the softer
+rock washed away, the granite being curiously carved
+by whirling rocks and the emery-like sands. Holes
+three and four feet deep were worn by small whirling
+rocks, and grooves were worn at one place by growing
+willows working back and forth in the water, the sand,
+strange to say, having less effect on the limbs than it had
+on the hard rocks.</p>
+
+<p>About noon of the day following this upset we reached
+the end of the Bass Trail and another cable crossing,
+about sixty feet above the water. Three men were
+waiting for us, and gave a call when we rowed in sight
+of their camp. One was Lauzon’s brother, another was
+Cecil Dodd, a cowboy who looked after Bass’ stock,
+and the breaking of his horses, the third was John Norberg,
+an “old timer” and an old friend as well, engaged
+at that time in working some asbestos and copper claims.</p>
+
+<p>The granite was broken down at this point, and
+another small deposit of algonkian was found here.
+There were intrusions, faults, and displacements both
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230"></span>in these formations and in the layers above. These
+fractures exposed mineral seams and deposits of copper
+and asbestos on both sides of the river, some of which
+Bass had opened up and located, waiting for the day
+when there would be better transportation facilities
+than his burros afforded.</p>
+
+<p>This was not our first visit to this section. On other
+occasions we had descended by the Mystic Spring (or
+Bass) Trail, on the south side, crossed on the tramway
+and were taken by Bass over some of his many trails,
+on the north side. We had visited the asbestos claims,
+where the edge of a blanket formation of the rock known
+as serpentine, containing the asbestos, lay exposed to
+view, twisting around the head of narrow canyons, and
+under beetling cliffs. We went halfway up the north
+rim trail, through Shinumo and White canyons, our
+objective point on these trips being a narrow box canyon
+which contained a large boulder, rolled from the walls
+above, and wedged in the flume-like gorge far above
+our heads. This trail continues up to the top, going over
+the narrow neck which connects Powell’s Plateau—a
+segregated section of thickly wooded surface several
+miles in extent—with the main extent of the Kaibab
+Plateau.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_230-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_230-fp.jpg" alt="The river water is foamy from the waves; a boat and its passenger ride through it.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">ROUGH WATER IN HERMIT CREEK RAPID. HEIGHT OF DISTANT WAVE ABOUT FIFTEEN FEET.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Ernest, though slightly affected with tonsillitis, was
+loath to leave us here. It was zero weather on top, we
+were told, and it looked it. The walls and peaks were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231"></span>white with snow. He would not have an easy trip.
+The drifted snow was only broken by the one party that
+we found at the river, and quite likely it would be very
+late when he arrived at the ranch. John went up with
+him a few miles to get a horse for the ride home the next
+day. Ernest took with him a few hurriedly written
+letters and the exposed plates. The film we were going
+to save was lost in the upset.</p>
+
+<p>On inspecting the provisions which were packed in
+here we found the grocers had shipped the order short,
+omitting, besides other necessities, some canned baked
+beans, on which we depended a great deal. This meant
+one of two things. We would have to make a quicker
+run than we had planned on, or would have to get out of
+the canyon at one of the two places where such an exit
+could easily be made.</p>
+
+<p>The M. P. as our motion-picture camera was called—and
+which was re-christened but not abbreviated by
+Bert, as “The Member of Parliament”—had to be
+cleaned before we could proceed. It took all this day,
+and much of the next, to get the moisture and sand out
+of the delicate mechanism, and have it running smoothly
+again. After it was once more in good condition Emery
+announced that he wanted to work out a few scenes of
+an uncompleted “movie-drama.” The action was snappy.
+The plot was brief, but harmonized well with the
+setting, and the “props.” Dodd, who was a big Texan,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232"></span>was cast for the role of horse thief and bad man in
+general. Bert’s brother, Morris Lauzon, was the deputy
+sheriff, and had a star cut from the top of a tomato
+can to prove it. John was to be a prospector. He
+would need little rehearsing for this part. In addition,
+he had not been out where he could have the services of
+a barber for six months past, which was all the better.
+John had a kind, quiet, easy-going way that made friends
+for him on sight. He was not consulted about the part
+he was to play, but we counted on his good nature
+and he was cast for the part. Emery, who was cast for
+the part of a mining engineer, arrived on the scene in his
+boat, after rounding the bend above the camp, tied up
+and climbed out over the cliffs to view the surrounding
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The hidden desperado, knowing that he was being
+hunted, stole the boat with its contents, and made his
+escape. The returning engineer arrived just in time to
+see his boat in the middle of the stream, and a levelled
+rifle halted him until the boat was hidden around the
+bend. At that moment the officer joined him, and a
+hurried consultation was held. Then the other boat,
+which had been separated from its companion, pulled
+into sight, and I was hailed by the men on shore. They
+came aboard and we gave chase. Could anything be
+better? The thief naturally thought he was safe, as he
+had not seen the second boat! After going over a few
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233"></span>rapids, he saw a fire up in the cliffs, on the opposite side of
+the river. He landed, and climbed up to the camp where
+John was at work. John shared his camp fare with him,
+and directed him to a hidden trail. The pursuers, on
+finding the abandoned boat, quietly followed the trail,
+and surprised Dodd in John’s camp. He was disarmed
+and sent across the river in the tramway, accompanied
+by the deputy, and was punished as he richly deserved
+to be.</p>
+
+<p>This was the scenario. Bert handled the camera.
+Emery was the playwright, director, and producer. All
+rights reserved.</p>
+
+<p>Everything worked beautifully. The film did not
+get balled up in the cogs, as sometimes happened. The
+light was good. Belasco himself could not have improved
+on the stage-setting. The trail led over the wildest,
+and most picturesque places imaginable. Dodd made
+a splendid desperado, and acted as if he had done nothing
+but steal horses and dodge the officers all his life. A pile
+of driftwood fifty feet high and with a tunnel underneath
+made a splendid hiding place for him while the first boat
+was being tied. Being a cowpuncher, it may be that
+he did not handle the oars as well as an experienced river-man,
+but any rapid could be used for an insert. The
+deputy, though youthful, was determined and never
+lost sight of the trail. The engineer acted his part well
+and registered surprise and anger, when he found how
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234"></span>he had been tricked. John, who had returned, humoured
+us, and dug nuggets of gold out of limestone rocks, where
+no one would have thought of looking for them. The
+fact that the tramway scene was made before any of the
+others did not matter. We could play our last act first
+if we wanted to. All we had to do was to cut the film
+and fasten it on to the end. Emery was justly proud of
+his first efforts as a producer. We were sorry this film
+had not been sent out with Ernest.</p>
+
+<p>This thrilling drama will not be released in the near
+future. One day later we found that a drop of water
+had worked into the lens cell at the last upset. This
+fogged the lens. We focussed with a scale and had overlooked
+the lens when cleaning the camera. Nothing
+but a very faint outline showed on the film. We had
+all the film we needed for a week after this, for kindling
+our fires.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp99" id="i_234-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_234-fp.jpg" alt="Water rushes over rocks across the width of the river. A rocky hillside slopes away from the far side of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+     <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">TYPE OF RAPID IN THE GRANITE. NEAR BASS TRAIL.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">
+    CHAPTER XXI</h3>
+<h4>WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> recording our various mishaps and upsets in these
+pages, it may seem to the reader as if I have given undue
+prominence to the part I took in them. If so, it has not
+been from choice, but because they happened in that
+way. No doubt a great deal of my trouble was due to
+carelessness. After I had learned to row my boat fairly
+well I sometimes took chances that proved to be anything
+but advisable, depending a good deal on luck, and
+luck was not always with me. My brother was less
+hasty in making his decisions, and was more careful in
+his movements, with the result that his boat had few
+marks of any kind, and he had been more fortunate than
+I with the rapids.</p>
+
+<p>It is my duty to record another adventure at this
+point, in which we all three shared, each in a different
+manner. This time I am going to give my brother’s
+record of the happenings that overtook us about four
+o’clock in the afternoon of December the 24th, less than
+three hours after we left our friends at the Bass Trail
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236"></span>with “best wishes for a Merry Christmas,” and had
+received instructions from John “to keep our feet dry.”</p>
+
+<p>My brother’s account follows:</p>
+
+<p>“The fourth rapid below the Bass Trail was bad,
+but after looking it over we decided it could be run. We
+had taken chances in rapids that looked worse and
+came through unharmed; if we were successful here, it
+would be over in a few minutes, and forgotten an hour
+later. So we each made the attempt.”</p>
+
+<p>“Lauzon had gone near the lower end of the rapid,
+taking the left shore, for a sixty-foot wall with a sloping
+bench on top rose sheer out of the water on the right.
+The only shore on the right was close to the head of the
+rapid, a small deposit or bank of earth and rock. The
+inner gorge here was about nine hundred feet deep.”</p>
+
+<p>“Ellsworth went first, taking the left-hand side. I
+picked out a course on the right as being the least dangerous;
+but I was scarcely started when I found myself
+on a nest of jagged rocks, with violent water all about
+me, and with other rocks, some of them submerged,
+below me. I climbed out on the rocks and held the
+boat.”</p>
+
+<p>“If the others could land below the rapid and climb
+back, they might get a rope to me and pull me off the
+rocks far enough to give me a new start, but they could
+not pull the boat in to shore through the rough water.
+A person thinks quickly under such circumstances,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237"></span>I had it all figured out as soon as I was on the rocks.
+The greatest trouble would be to hold the boat if she
+broke loose.”</p>
+
+<p>“Then I saw that the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> was in trouble. She
+caught in a reverse whirl in the very middle of the
+pounding rapid, bouncing back and forth like a great
+rubber ball. Finally she filled with the splashing water,
+sank low, and the water pouring over the rock caught
+the edge of the twelve-hundred pound boat and turned
+her over as if she were a toy; my brother was holding to
+the gunwale when she turned. Still she was held in the
+whirl, jumping as violently as ever, then turned upright
+again and was forced out. Ellsworth had disappeared,
+but came up nearly a hundred feet below, struggling to
+keep on top but going down with every breaking wave.
+When the quieter water was reached, he did not seem to
+have strength enough to swim out, but floated, motionless,
+in a standing position, his head kept up by the life-preservers.
+The next rapid was not over fifty yards
+below. If he was to be saved it must be done instantly.”</p>
+
+<p>“I pried the boat loose, jumped in as she swung clear,
+and pulled with all my might, headed toward the centre
+of the river. I was almost clear when I was drawn over
+a dip, bow first, and struck a glancing blow against
+another rock I had never seen. There was a crash, and
+the boards broke like egg-shells. It was all done in a
+few moments. The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was a wreck, I did not know
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238"></span>how bad. My brother had disappeared. Lauzon was
+frantically climbing over some large boulders trying to
+reach the head of the next rapid, where the boat was
+held in an eddy. My boat was not upset, but the waves
+were surging through a great hole in her side. She was
+drawn into an eddy, close to the base of the wall, where
+I could tie up and climb out. It seemed folly to try
+the lower end with my filled boat. Climbing to the
+top of the rock, I could see half a mile down the
+canyon, but my brother was nowhere to be seen and I
+had no idea that he had escaped. I was returning to
+my wrecked boat when Bert waved his arms, and pointed
+to the head of the rapid. Going back once more, I saw
+him directly below me at the base of the sheer rock, in an
+opening where the wall receded. He had crawled out
+twenty feet above the next rapid. Returning to my
+wrecked boat, I was soon beside him. He was exhausted
+with his struggle in the icy waves; his outer garments
+were frozen. I soon procured blankets from my bed,
+removed the wet clothes, and wrapped him up. Lauzon,
+true to our expectations of what he would do
+when the test came, swam out and rescued the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>
+before she was carried over the next rapid. He was
+inexperienced at the oars and had less than two hours
+practice after he had joined us. It was a tense moment
+when he started across, above the rapid. But he made
+it! Landing with a big grin, he exclaimed, ‘Young
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239"></span>fellows, business is picking up!’ then added, ‘And we’re
+losing lots of good pictures!’”</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_238a-fp" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_238a-fp.jpg" alt="Canyon peaks rise from a barren plateau of eroded stone and small rocks.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE INNER PLATEAU, THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE RIVER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="i_238b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_238b-fp.jpg" alt="Lauzon sits, smoking a pipe, with one leg crossed over the other on a rock at the shoreline of the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">BERT LAUZON. ABOVE SEPARATION RAPID.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>“These experiences were our Christmas presents that
+year. They were not done up in small packages.”</p>
+
+<p>“We repaired the boat on Christmas day. Three
+smashed side ribs were replaced with mesquite, which
+we found growing on the walls. The hole was patched
+with boards from the loose bottom. This was painted;
+canvas was tacked over that and painted also, and a sheet
+of tin or galvanized iron went over it all. This completed
+the repair and the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was as seaworthy as before.”</p>
+
+<p>This is Emery’s account of the “Christmas Rapid.”</p>
+
+<p>I will add that the freezing temperature of the water
+and the struggle for breath in the breaking waves left
+me exhausted and at the mercy of the river. An eddy
+drew me out of the centre of the stream when I had
+given up all hope of any escape from the next rapid. I
+had seen my brother on the rock below the head of the
+rapid and knew there was no hope from him. As I was
+being drawn back into the current, close to the end of
+the sheer wall on the right, my feet struck bottom on some
+débris washed down from the cliff. I made three efforts
+to stand but fell each time, and finally crawled out on
+my hands and knees. I had the peculiar sensation of
+seeing a rain-storm descending before my eyes, although
+I knew no such thing existed; every fibre in my body
+ached and continued to do so for days afterward; and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240"></span>the moment I would close my eyes to sleep I would see
+mountainous waves about me and would feel myself
+being whirled head over heels just as I was in that rapid;
+but this rapid, strange to say, while exceedingly rough
+and swift, did not contain any waves that we would
+have considered large up to this time. In other words,
+it depended on the circumstances whether it was bad or
+not. When standing on the shore, picking a channel,
+it appeared to be a moderately bad rapid, in which a
+person, aided with life-preservers, should have little
+difficulty in keeping on top, at least half the time. After
+my battle, in which, as far as personal effort went, I had
+lost, and after my providential escape, that one rapid
+appeared to be the largest of the entire series.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to describe the rapids with the foot-rule
+standard, and give an idea of their power. One unfamiliar
+with “white water” usually associates a twelve-foot
+descent or a ten-foot wave with a similar wave on
+the ocean. There is no comparison. The waters of the
+ocean rise and fall, the waves travel, the water itself,
+except in breakers, is comparatively still. In bad rapids
+the water is whirled through at the rate of ten or twelve
+miles an hour, in some cases much swifter; the surface
+is broken by streams shooting up from every submerged
+rock; the weight of the river is behind it, and the waves,
+instead of tumbling forward, quite as often break upstream.
+Such waves, less than six feet high, are often
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241"></span>dangers to be shunned. After being overturned in them
+we learned their tremendous power, a power we would
+never have associated with any water, before such an
+experience, short of a waterfall.</p>
+
+<p>There is a certain amount of danger in the canyons,—plenty
+of it. Still, in most cases, with care and forethought,
+much of it can be avoided. We think we are
+safe in saying that half of the parties who have attempted
+a passage through these canyons have met with fatalities.
+Most of these have occurred in Cataract Canyon, not
+because it is any worse than other sections,—certainly
+no worse than the Grand Canyon,—but because it is
+easily entered from the quiet, alluring water of the lower
+Green River. Without a doubt each successful expedition
+is responsible in a way for others’ attempts. In
+nearly every instance the unfortunate ones have underestimated
+the danger, and have attempted the passage
+with inadequate boats, such as Smith had for instance,
+undecked and without air chambers. Both of these are
+imperative for safety.</p>
+
+<p>We had the benefit of the experiences of others. In
+addition, our years of work in the canyons had robbed
+them of their imaginary dangers, and—while we trust
+that we are not entirely without imagination—much of
+their weirdness and glamour with which they are inseparable
+to the idealist and the impressionist. Each of
+these upsets could have been avoided by a portage had we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242"></span>desired to make one, but success in other rapids made us
+a little reckless and ready to take a chance.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond getting our flour wet on the outside, we suffered
+very little loss to our cargo. We placed the two
+flour sacks beside the fires each evening, until the wet
+flour dried to a crust. We continued to use out of the
+centre of the sacks as though nothing had ever happened.</p>
+
+<p>Bert and I each had a little cough the next morning,
+but it disappeared by noon. Beyond that, we suffered
+no great inconvenience from our enforced bath. Sleeping
+in the open, with plenty of healthful exercise, kept us
+physically fit.</p>
+
+<p>The cold air and the cold water did not seem to bother
+the others, but I could not get comfortably warm during
+this cold snap. Added to this, it took me some time to
+get over my scare, and I could see all kinds of danger,
+in rapids, where Emery could see none. I insisted on
+untying the photographic cases from the boats, and
+carrying them around a number of rapids before we ran
+them. It is hardly necessary to say that no upset occurred
+in these rapids.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_242a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_242a-fp.jpg" alt="The 'Edith' is tied on a rocky shore, lying on its port side. One man stands beside the boat; another man's head and shoulders appear through a hole in the starboard side of the boat.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE BREAK IN THE “EDITH.”</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_242b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_242b-fp.jpg" alt="One man repairs the hole in the 'Edith'. A hand-lettered board rests on the side of the boat with the words, 'Merry Christmas 1911.'">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">MERRY CHRISTMAS! THE REPAIR WAS MADE WITH BILGE BOARDS, CANVAS, PAINT, AND TIN.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Then came a cold day, with a raw wind sweeping up
+the river. A coating of ice covered the boats and the
+oars. We had turned directly to the north along the
+base of Powell’s plateau, and were nearing the end of a
+second granite gorge, with violent rapids and jagged
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243"></span>rocks. Emery made the remark that he had not had
+a swim for some time. In a half-hour we came to a
+rapid with two twelve-foot waves in the centre of the
+stream, with a projecting point above that would have
+to be passed, before we could pull out of the swift-running
+centre. Emery got his swim there. I was just behind
+and was more fortunate. I never saw anything more
+quickly done. Before the boat was fully overturned
+he swung an oar, so that it stuck out at an angle from
+the side of the boat, and used the oar for a step; an instant
+later he had cut the oar loose, and steered toward
+the shore. Bert threw him a rope from the shore, and
+he was pulled in. He was wearing a thin rubber coat
+fitting tightly about his wrists, tied about his neck, and
+belted at the waist. This protected him so thoroughly
+that he was only wet from the waist down.</p>
+
+<p>If we were a little inclined to be proud of our record
+above Bright Angel we had forgotten all about it by this
+time. We were scarcely more than sixty miles from home
+and had experienced three upsets and a smashed boat,
+all in one week.</p>
+
+<p>Just at the end of the second granite section we made
+our first portage since leaving Bright Angel. Bert and
+I worked on the boats, while Emery cooked the evening
+meal.</p>
+
+<p>Hot rice soup, flavoured with a can of prepared meat,
+was easily and quickly prepared, and formed one of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244"></span>usual dishes at these meals. It contained a lot of nutriment,
+and the rice took up but little space in the boats.
+Sometimes the meat was omitted, and raisins were substituted.
+Prepared baked beans were a staple dish,
+but were not in our supply on this last part of the trip.
+We often made “hot cakes” twice a day; an excuse for
+eating a great deal of butter and honey, or syrup. None
+of these things were luxuries. They were the best foodstuff
+we could carry. We seemed to crave sweet stuff,
+and used quantities of sugar. We could carry eggs,
+when packed in sawdust, without trouble but did not
+carry many. We had little meat; what we had was
+bacon, and prepared meats of the lunch variety. Cheese
+was our main substitute for meat. It was easily carried
+and kept well. Dried peaches or apricots were on the
+bill for nearly every meal, each day’s allowance being
+cooked the evening before. We tried several condensed
+or emergency foods, but discarded them all but one,
+for various reasons. The exception was Erbeswurst, a
+patent dried soup preparation. Other prepared soups
+were carried also. I must not forget the morning cereal.
+It was Cream of Wheat, easily prepared; eaten—not
+served, perhaps devoured would be a better word—with
+sugar and condensed cream, as long as it lasted,
+then with butter. Any remainder from breakfast was
+fried for other meals. Each evening, we would make
+some baking-powder biscuit in a frying-pan. A Dutch
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245"></span>oven is better, but had too much weight. The appellation
+for such bread is “flapjack” or “dough-god.” When
+I did the baking they were fearfully and wonderfully
+made. Cocoa, which was nourishing, often took the
+place of coffee. In fact our systems craved just what
+was most needed to build up muscle and create heat.
+We found it was useless to try to catch fish after the
+weather became cold. The fish would not bite.</p>
+
+<p>On the upper end of our journey we carried no tobacco,
+as it happened that Jimmy as well as ourselves
+were not tobacco users. There were no alcoholic stimulants.
+When Bert joined us, a small flask, for medicinal
+purposes only, was taken along. The whiskey was
+scarcely touched at this time. Bert enjoyed a pipe after
+his meals, but continued to keep good-natured even
+when his tobacco got wet, so tobacco was not absolutely
+necessary to him.</p>
+
+<p>Uninteresting and unromantic these things may be,
+but they were most important to us. We were only
+sorry the supply was not larger. While we never stinted
+ourselves, or cut the allowance of food, the amount was
+growing smaller every day, and it was not a question
+any more whether we would go out or not, to get provisions,
+to “rustle” as Bert called it, but where we would
+go out. We might go up Cataract Creek or Ha Va Su
+Creek, as it is sometimes called. We had been to the
+mouth of this canyon on foot, so there would be no danger
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246"></span>of missing it. The Ha Va Supai Indians, about two
+hundred in number, lived in this lateral canyon about
+seven or eight miles from the river. An agent and a
+farmer lived with them, and might be able to sell us some
+provisions; if not, it would be fifty miles back to our
+home. The trail was much more direct than the river.
+The great drawback to this course was the fact that Ha
+Va Su Canyon, sheer-walled, deep, and narrow, contained
+a number of waterfalls, one of them about 175 feet high.
+The precipice over which it fell was nothing but a mineral
+deposit from the water, building higher every year.
+Formerly this was impassable, until some miners, after
+enlarging a sloping cave, had cut a winding stairway in
+it, which allowed a descent to be made to the bottom of
+the fall. A recent storm had remodelled all the falls in
+Cataract Creek Canyon, cutting out the travertine in
+some places, piling it up in others. A great mass of
+cottonwood trees were also mixed with the débris. The
+village, too, had been washed away and was then being
+rebuilt. We had been told that the tunnel was filled up,
+and as far as we knew no one had been to the river since
+the flood.</p>
+
+<p>The other outlet was Diamond Creek Canyon, much
+farther down the river. We would decide when we got
+to Ha Va Su just what we would do.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_246a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_246a-fp.jpg" alt="A boat with one man in the cockpit and another riding on the prow rides through a the rapids.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">PULLING CLEAR OF A ROCK.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_246b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_246b-fp.jpg" alt="Man in a boat is sprayed by a wave while running the rapids.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A SHOWER BATH.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Tapeets Creek, one mile below our camp,—a stream
+which has masqueraded under the title of Thunder
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247"></span>River, and about which there has been considerable
+speculation,—proved to be a stream a little smaller than
+Bright Angel Creek, flowing through a narrow slot in
+the rocks, and did not fall sheer into the river, as has
+been reported. Perhaps a small cascade known as Surprise
+Falls which we passed the next day has been confused
+with Tapeets Creek. This stream corkscrews down
+through a narrow crevice and falls about two hundred
+feet, close to the river’s edge. We are told that the upper
+end of Tapeets Creek is similar to this, but on a much
+larger scale.</p>
+
+<p>Just opposite this fall a big mountain-sheep jumped
+from under an overhanging ledge close to the water, and
+stared curiously at us, as though he wondered what
+strange things those were coming down with the current.
+It is doubtful if he ever saw a human being before. This
+sight sent us scrambling in our cases for cameras and
+firearms; and it was not the game laws, but a rusted
+trigger on the six-shooter instead, that saved the sheep.
+He finally took alarm and scampered away over the rocks,
+and we had no mutton stew that night.</p>
+
+<p>We had one night of heavy rain, and morning revealed
+a little snow within three hundred feet of the river, while
+a heavy white blanket covered the upper cliffs. It continued
+to snow on top, and rained on us nearly all this
+day. Emery took this opportunity to get the drop of
+moisture out of the lens, and put the camera in such shape
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248"></span>that we could proceed with our picture making. A
+short run was made after this work was completed.</p>
+
+<p>The camp we were just leaving was about three miles
+above Kanab Canyon. The granite was behind us,
+disappearing with a steep descent much as it had emerged
+at the Hance Trail. There was also a small deposit of
+algonkian. This too had been passed, and we were back
+in the limestone and sandstone walls similar to the lower
+end of Marble Canyon. While the formations were the
+same, the canyon differed. The layers were thicker,
+the red sandstone and the marble walls were equally
+sheer; there was no plateau between. What plateau
+this canyon contained lay on top of the red sandstone.
+Few peaks rose above this. The canyon had completed
+its northern run and was turning back again to the west-southwest
+with a great sweep or circle. Less than an
+hour’s work brought us to Kanab Canyon.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">
+    CHAPTER XXII</h3>
+<h4>SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the mud at Kanab Canyon we saw an old footprint
+of some person who had come down to the river
+through this narrow, gloomy gorge. It was here that
+Major Powell terminated his second voyage, on account
+of extreme high water. A picture they made showed
+their boats floated up in this side canyon. Our stage
+was much lower than this. F. S. Dellenbaugh, the
+author of “A Canyon Voyage,” was a member of this
+second expedition. This book had been our guide down
+to this point; we could not have asked for a better
+one. Below here we had a general idea of the nature of
+the river, and had a set of the government maps, but we
+had neglected to provide ourselves with detailed information
+such as this volume gave us.</p>
+
+<p>Evening of the following day found us at Cataract
+Creek Canyon, but with a stage of water in the river
+nearly fifty feet lower than that which we had seen a
+few years before. The narrow entrance of this great
+canyon gives no hint of what it is like a few miles above.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250"></span>The Indian village is in the bottom of a 3000-foot
+canyon, half a mile wide and three miles long, covered
+with fertile fields, peach and apricot orchards. It even
+contained a few fig trees. Below the village the canyon
+narrowed to a hundred yards, with a level bottom, covered
+with a tangle of wild grape vines, cactus, and
+cottonwood trees. This section contained the two largest
+falls, and came to an end about four miles below the
+first fall. Then the canyon narrowed, deep and gloomy,
+until there was little room for anything but the powerful,
+rapidly descending stream. At the lower end it was often
+waist deep and fifteen or twenty feet wide. It was no
+easy task to go through this gorge. The stream had to
+be crossed several times. The canyon terminated in an
+extremely narrow gorge 2500 feet deep, dark and gloomy,
+one of the most impressive gorges we have ever seen. The
+main canyon was similar, with a few breaks on the sides,
+those breaks being ledges, or narrow sloping benches that
+would extend for miles, only to be brought to an abrupt
+end by side canyons. There are many mountain-sheep
+in this section, but we saw none either time. We could
+see many fresh tracks where they had followed these
+ledges around, and had gone up the narrow side canyon.
+It was cold in the main canyon, and no doubt the sheep
+could be found on the plateaus, which were more open,
+and would get sun when the sun shone. This plateau
+was 2500 feet above us. At the turn of the canyon we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251"></span>could see the other walls 2000 feet above that. The
+rapids in the section just passed had been widely separated
+and compared well with those of Marble Canyon,
+not the worst we had seen, but far from being tame.
+There was plenty of shore room at each of these rapids.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_250-fp" style="max-width: 48.125em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_250-fp.jpg" alt="The river passes between two high canyon walls. There is no shore on either side. A tiny figure of a man is standing at the bottom of the picture, providing a sense of scale of the height of the canyon.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">GRAND CANYON AT MOUTH OF HA VA SU CANYON. MEDIUM HIGH WATER. NOTE FIGURE. <a href="#frontis">FRONTISPIECE</a> SHOWS SAME PLACE IN LOW WATER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Cactus of different species was now a feature of the
+scenery. The ocotilla or candlewood with long, lash-like
+stalks springing from a common centre—that cactus,
+which, when dried, needs only a lighted match to set it
+afire—flourishes in the rocky ledges. A species of small
+barrel-cactus about the size of a man’s head, with fluted
+sides, or symmetrical vertical rows of small thorned lumps
+converging at the top of the “nigger-head,” as they are
+sometimes called, grows in great numbers in crevices on
+the walls. The delicate “pin cushion” gathered in
+clusters of myriad small spiny balls. The prickly pear,
+here in Ha Va Su Canyon, were not the starved, shrivelled,
+mineral-tinted cactus such as we found at the beginning
+of our trip. Instead they were green and flourishing,
+with large fleshy leaves joining on to each other until
+they rise to a height of three feet or more and cover large
+patches of ground to the utter exclusion of all other
+growth. What a display of yellow and red these desert
+plants put forth when they are in bloom! A previous
+visit to Ha Va Su was made in the month of May when
+every group of prickly pear was a riot of pure colour. All
+this prolific growth is made possible by the extreme heat
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252"></span>of the summer months aided in the case of those plants
+and trees which flourish in the fertile soil of Ha Va Su
+by the sub-irrigation and the spray from the fall.</p>
+
+<p>After making an inventory of our provisions we
+concluded not to try the tedious and uncertain trip up
+Cataract Creek. With care and good fortune we would
+have enough provisions to last us to Diamond Creek.</p>
+
+<p>With our run the next day the inner gorge continued
+to deepen, the walls drew closer together, so that we
+now had a narrow gorge hemming us in with 3000-foot
+walls from which there was no escape. They were about
+a fourth of a mile apart at the top. A boat at the foot
+of one of these walls was merely an atom. The total
+depth of the canyon was close to 4500 feet. There is
+nothing on earth to which this gorge can be compared.
+Storm-clouds lowered into the chasm in the early morning.
+The sky was overcast and threatening. We were travelling
+directly west again, and no sunlight entered here,
+even when the sun shone. The walls had lost their
+brighter reds, and what colour they had was dark and
+sombre, a dirty brown and dark green predominating.
+The mythology of the ancients, with their Inferno and
+their River Styx, could hardly conjure anything more
+supernatural or impressive than this gloomy gorge.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp54" id="i_252a-fp" style="max-width: 45.1875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_252a-fp.jpg" alt="The river makes an 'S' curve through the high canyon walls, most of which are in the shadows.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">NEW YEAR’S EVE WAS SPENT IN THIS SECTION, BETWEEN THE HIGHEST SHEER WALLS IN THE INNER GORGE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp58" id="i_252b-fp" style="max-width: 48.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_252b-fp.jpg" alt="One boat is in the calm water at the lower portion of the photo. High canyon walls rise from the foreground to the distant background.">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="allsmcap">“MORNING REVEALED A LITTLE SNOW” ON THE TOP.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>There were a few bad rapids. One or two had no
+shore, others had an inclination to run under one wall
+and had to be run very carefully. If we could not get
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253"></span>down alongside of a rapid, we could usually climb out on
+the walls at the head of the rapid and look it over from
+that vantage point. The one who climbed out would
+signal directions to the others, who would run it at once,
+and continue on to the next rapid. They would have its
+course figured out when the last boat arrived.</p>
+
+<p>One canyon entered from the left, level on the bottom,
+and about one hundred feet wide; it might be a means
+of outlet from this canyon, but it is doubtful, for the
+marble has a way of ending abruptly and dropping sheer,
+with a polished surface that is impossible to climb.</p>
+
+<p>New Year’s Eve was spent in this section. The camp
+was exceptionally good. A square-sided, oblong section
+of rock about fifty feet long had fallen forward from the
+base of the cliff. This left a cave-like opening which was
+closed at one end with our dark-room tent. High water
+had placed a sandy floor, now thoroughly dry, in the
+bottom. Under the circumstances we could hardly ask
+for anything better. Of driftwood there was none,
+and our camp-fires were made of mesquite which grew in
+ledges in the rocks; in one case gathered with a great
+deal of labour on the shore opposite our camp, and ferried
+across on our boats. If a suitable camp was found after
+3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, we kept it, rather than run the risk of not finding
+another until after dark.</p>
+
+<p>Another day, January 1, 1912, brought us to the end of
+this gorge and into a wider and more open canyon, with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254"></span>the country above covered with volcanic peaks and
+cinder cones. Blow-holes had broken through the canyon
+walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of
+lava down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with
+several hundred feet of lava. This condition extended
+down the canyon for twenty miles or more. Judging
+by the amount of lava the eruption must have continued
+for a great while. Could one imagine a more wonderful
+sight—the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood
+from above! What explosions and rending of rocks
+there must have been when the two elements met. The
+river would be backed up for a hundred miles! Each
+would be shoved on from behind! There was no escape!
+They must fight it out until one or the other conquered.
+But the fire could not keep up forever, and, though triumphant
+for a period, it finally succumbed, and the stream
+proceeded to cut down to the original level.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles below the first lava flow we saw what we
+took to be smoke and hurried down wondering if we would
+find a prospector or a cattle rustler. We agreed, if it was
+the latter, to let them off if they would share with us.
+But the smoke turned out to be warm springs, one of
+them making quite a stream which fell twenty feet into
+the river. Here in the river was a cataract, called Lava
+Falls, so filled with jagged pieces of the black rock that
+a portage was advisable. The weather had not moderated
+any in the last week, and we were in the water a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255"></span>great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks
+at the edge of the rapids. We would work in the water
+until numbed with the cold, then would go down to the
+warm springs and thaw out for a while. This was a little
+quicker than standing by the fire, but the relief was only
+temporary. This portage was finished the next morning.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="i_254-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_254-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands on a rock at the bottom of a short rapids. Lava bolders line the opposite shore. Behind the man is a wide, gently sloping shore with scrub, trees, and pools of water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LAVA FALLS: LAVA ON LEFT; WARM SPRINGS ON RIGHT.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Another portage was made this same day, and the
+wide canyon where Major Powell found some Indian
+gardens was passed in the afternoon. The Indians were
+not at home when the Major called. His party felt
+they were justified in helping themselves to some pumpkins
+or squash, for their supplies were very low, and they
+could not go out to a settlement—as we expected to do
+in a day or two—and replenish them.</p>
+
+<p>We found the fish would not bite, just as our friend,
+the miner, had said, but we did succeed in landing a
+fourteen-pound salmon, in one of the deep pools not many
+miles from this point, and it was served up in steaks the
+next day. If our method of securing the salmon was
+unsportsmanlike, we excused ourselves for the methods
+used, just as Major Powell justified his appropriation of
+the Indians’ squash. If that fish was ever needed, it
+was then, and it was a most welcome addition to our
+rapidly disappearing stock of provisions. We were only
+sorry we had not taken more “bait.”</p>
+
+<p>The next day we did see a camp-fire, and on climbing
+the shore, found a little old prospector, clad in tattered
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256"></span>garments, sitting in a little dugout about five feet square,
+which he had shovelled out of the sand. He had roofed
+it with mesquite and an old blanket. A rapid, just below,
+made so much noise that he did not hear us until we were
+before his door. He looked at the rubber coats and the
+life-preservers, then said, with a matter-of-fact drawl,
+“Well, you fellows must have come by the river!” After
+talking awhile he asked:</p>
+
+<p>“What do you call yourselves?” This question
+would identify him as an old-time Westerner if we did
+not already know it. At one time it was not considered
+discreet to ask any one in these parts what their name
+was, or where they were from. He gave us a great deal
+of information about the country, and said that Diamond
+Creek was about six miles below. He had come across
+from Diamond Creek by a trail over a thousand foot
+ridge, with a burro and a pack mule, a month before.
+He had just been out near the top on the opposite side,
+doing some assessment work on some copper claims,
+crossing the river on a raft, and stated that on a previous
+occasion he had been drawn over the rapid, but got out.</p>
+
+<p>When he learned that we had come through Utah, he
+stated that he belonged near Vernal, and had once been
+upset in the upper canyons, about twenty years before.
+He proved to be the Snyder of whom we had heard at
+Linwood, and also from the Chews, who had given him a
+horse so he could get out over the mountains. Yet here
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257"></span>was, a thousand miles below, cheerful as a cricket,
+and sure that a few months at the most would bring him
+unlimited wealth. He asked us to “share his chuck”
+with him, but we could see nothing but a very little flour,
+and a little bacon, so pleaded haste and pushed on for
+Diamond Creek.</p>
+
+<p>The mouth of this canyon did not look unlike others
+we had seen in this section, and one could easily pass it
+without knowing that it ran back with a gentle slope for
+twenty miles, and that a wagon road came down close
+to the river. It contained a small, clear stream. The
+original tourist camp in the Grand Canyon was located up
+this canyon. We packed all our plates and films, ready
+to take them out. The supplies left in the boats when
+we went out the next morning were:</p>
+
+<ul>
+  <li>5 pounds of flour, partly wet and crusted.</li>
+  <li>2 pounds mildewed Cream of Wheat.</li>
+  <li>3 or 4 cans (rusty) of dried beef.</li>
+  <li>Less than one pound of sugar.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>We carried a lunch out with us. This was running
+a little too close for comfort.</p>
+
+<p>The mouth of Diamond Creek Canyon was covered
+with a growth of large mesquite trees. Cattle trails
+wound through this thorny thicket down to the river’s
+edge. The trees thinned out a short distance back, and
+the canyon widened as it receded from the river. A half
+mile back from the river was the old slab building that
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258"></span>had served as headquarters for the campers. Here the
+canyon divided, one containing the small stream heading
+in the high walls to the southeast; while the other branch
+ran directly south, heading near the railroad at the little
+flag-station of Peach Springs, twenty-three miles distant.
+It was flat-bottomed, growing wider and more valley-like
+with every mile, but not especially interesting to
+one who had seen the glory of all the canyons. Floods
+had spoiled what had once been a very passable stage
+road, dropping 4000 feet in twenty miles, down to the
+very depths of the Grand Canyon. Some cattle, driven
+down by the snows, were sunning themselves near the
+building. Our appearance filled them with alarm, and
+they “high tailed it” to use a cattle man’s expression,
+scampering up the rocky slopes.</p>
+
+<p>A deer’s track was seen in a snow-drift away from the
+river. On the sloping walls in the more open sections of
+this valley grew the stubby-thorned chaparral. The hackberry
+and the first specimens of the palo verde were found
+in this vicinity. The mesquite trees seen at the mouth
+of the canyon were real trees—about the size of a large
+apple tree—not the small bushes we had seen at the
+Little Colorado. All the growth was changing as we
+neared the lower altitudes and the mouth of the Grand
+Canyon, being that of the hot desert, which had found this
+artery or avenue leading to the heart of the rocky plateaus
+and had pushed its way into this foreign land.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_259"></span></p>
+
+<p>Even the animal life of the desert has followed this
+same road. Occasional Gila monsters, which are supposed
+to belong to the hot desert close to the Mexico line,
+have been found at Diamond Creek, and lizards of the
+Mojave Desert have been seen as far north as the foot of
+Bright Angel Trail.</p>
+
+<p>But we saw little animal life at this time. There were
+occasional otters disporting themselves near our boats, in
+one instance unafraid, in another raising a gray-bearded
+head near our boat with a startled look in his eyes.
+Then he turned and began to swim on the surface until
+our laughter caused him to dive. Tracks of the civet-cat
+or the ring-tailed cat—that large-eyed and large-eared
+animal, somewhat like a raccoon and much resembling a
+weasel—were often seen along the shores. The gray fox,
+the wild-cat, and the coyote, all natives of this land, kept
+to the higher piñon-covered hills. The beaver seldom
+penetrates into the deep canyons because of the lack of
+vegetation, but is found in all sections in the open country
+from the headwaters to the delta in Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>We went out by this canyon on January the 5th, and
+returned Sunday, January the 8th, bringing enough provisions
+to last us to the end of the big canyon. We imagined
+we would have no trouble getting what we needed
+in the open country below that. We sent some telegrams
+and received encouraging answers to them before returning.
+With us were two brothers, John and Will
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260"></span>Nelson, cattle men who had given us a cattle man’s
+welcome when we arrived at Peach Springs. There was
+no store at Peach Springs, and they supplied us with the
+provisions that we brought back. They drove a wagon
+for about half the distance, then the roads became impassable,
+so they unhitched and packed their bedding and
+our provisions in to the river. The Nelsons were anxious
+to see us run a rapid or two.</p>
+
+<p>We found the nights to be just as cold on top as they
+ever get in this section—a little below zero—although
+the midday sun was warm enough to melt the snow and
+make it slushy. I arrived at the river with my feet so
+swollen that I had difficulty in walking, a condition
+brought on by a previous freezing they had received,
+being wet continually by the icy water in my boat—which
+was leaking badly since we left Bright Angel—and
+the walk out through the slush. I was glad there was
+little walking to do when once at the river, and changed my
+shoes for arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.</p>
+
+<p>On the upper part of our trip there were occasional
+days when Emery was not feeling his best, while I had
+been most fortunate and had little complaint to make;
+now things seemed to be reversed. Emery, and Bert
+too, were having the time of their lives, while I was
+“getting mine” in no small doses.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_6_6" href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>&#x2060;</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_260a-fp" style="max-width: 93.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_260a-fp.jpg" alt="Close-up photo of a man in a boat negotiating the river rapids.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">SWIFT WATER IN TAPEETS CREEK RAPID.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_260b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_260b-fp.jpg" alt="This is a wider view of the above photo taken a moment later. The man in the boat has progressed towards a rock. Standing on a rock, another man holds a life preserver on a line, ready to throw it to the boater, if needed.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">LAUZON, EQUIPPED WITH A LIFE PRESERVER ON A ROPE, ON GUARD BELOW A RAPID.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_260c-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_260c-fp.jpg" alt="Two men stand on rocks in the river on either side of a boat, holding it against the flow of the water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">IN THE LAST GRANITE GORGE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261"></span></p>
+
+<p>We had always imagined that the Grand Canyon
+lost its depth and impressiveness below Diamond Creek.
+We were to learn our mistake. The colour was missing,
+that was true, for the marble and sandstone walls were
+brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones
+of the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still
+the Grand Canyon. We were in the granite again—granite
+just as deep as any we had seen above, it may
+have been a little deeper, and in most cases it was very
+sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and
+sandstone rose above that, just as they had above
+Kanab Canyon. The light-coloured walls could not be
+seen.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the rapids of this lower section were just as
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262"></span>bad as any we had gone over; one or two have been considered
+worse by different parties. Two hours after
+leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a rapid that made
+us catch our breath. It was in two sections—the lower
+one so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat.
+The upper part fell about twenty feet we should judge
+and was bad enough. It was a question if we could
+run this and keep from going over the lower part. If we
+made a portage, our boats would have to be taken three
+or four hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid
+was too strong to line a boat down. We concluded to
+risk running the first part. Bert climbed to the head
+of the second section of the rapid, where a projecting point
+of granite narrowed the stream, and formed a quiet eddy
+just above the foaming plunge. If we could keep out
+of the centre and land here we would be safe. Our shoes
+were removed, our trousers were rolled to our knees and
+we removed our coats. If we had to swim there, we
+were going to be prepared. The life-preservers were
+well inflated, and tied; then we made the plunge, Emery
+taking the lead, I following close behind. Our plan was
+to keep as near the shore as possible. Once I thought
+it was all over when I saw the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> pulled directly for a
+rock in spite of all Emery could do to pull away. Nothing
+but a rebounding wave saved him. I went through the
+same experience. Several times we were threatened
+with an upset, but we landed in safety. The portage
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263"></span>was short and easy. Flat granite rocks were covered
+with a thin coat of ice. The boats were unloaded and
+slid across, then dropped below the projecting rock. The
+<i class="shipname">Defiance</i> skidded less than two feet and struck a projecting
+knob of rock the size of a goose egg. It punctured the
+side close to the stern, fortunately above the water line,
+and the wood was not entirely broken away.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles below this we found another bad one.
+This was lined while Bert got supper up in a little sloping
+canyon; about as uncomfortable a camp as we had found.
+Many of the rapids run the next day were violent. The
+river seemed to be trying to make up for lost time. We
+passed a canyon coming from the south containing two
+streams, one clear, and one muddy. The narrowest
+place we had seen on the river was a rapid run this day,
+not over forty feet wide. Evening brought us to a rapid
+with a lateral canyon coming in from each side, that on
+the right containing a muddy stream. The walls were
+sheer and jagged close to the rapid, with a break on the
+rugged slopes here and there. A sloping rock in the
+middle of the stream could be seen in the third section
+of the rapid. This was Separation Rapid, the point
+where the two Howland brothers and Dunn parted company
+with Major Powell and his party.</p>
+
+<p>From our camp at the left side we could easily figure
+out a way to the upper plateau. Above that they would
+have a difficult climb as far as we could tell. That they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264"></span>did reach the top is well known. They met a tragic
+fate. The second day after getting out they were killed
+by some Indians—the Shewits Utes—who had treated
+them hospitably at first and provided them with something
+to eat. That night a visiting Indian brought a
+tale of depredations committed by some miners against
+another section of their tribe. These men were believed
+to be the guilty parties, and they were ambushed the
+next morning. Their fate remained a mystery for a
+year; then a Ute was seen with a watch belonging to one
+of the men. Later a Mormon who had a great deal of
+influence with the Indians got their story from them,
+and reported to Major Powell what he had learned. It
+was a deplorable and a tragic ending to what otherwise
+was one of the most successful, daring, and momentous
+explorations ever undertaken on this continent.</p>
+
+<p>We find there is a current belief that it was cowardice
+and fear of this one rapid that caused these men to separate
+from the party. The more one hears of this separation,
+the more it seems that it was a difference of
+opinion on many matters, and not this one rapid, that
+caused them to leave. These men had been trappers
+and hunters, one might say pioneers, and one had been
+with Major Powell before the river exploration. They
+had gone through all the canyons, and had come through
+this far without a fatality. They had seen a great many
+rapids nearly as bad as this, and several that were worse,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265"></span>if one could judge by its nature when we found it. They
+were not being carried by others, but had charge of one
+boat. They did smash one boat in Disaster Rapid in
+Lodore Canyon, and at that time they claimed Major
+Powell gave them the wrong signal. This caused some
+feeling.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of the split, the food question was a serious
+one. There were short rations for a long time; in fact
+there was practically no food. After an observation,
+Major Powell informed them that they were within forty-five
+miles of the Virgin River, in a direct line. Much
+of the country between the end of the canyon and the
+Virgin River was open, a few Mormon settlements
+could be found up the Virgin Valley. He offered them
+half of the small stock of provisions, when they persisted
+in leaving, but they refused to take any provisions
+whatever, feeling sure that they could kill enough game
+to subsist on. This one instance would seem to be
+enough to clear them of the stigma of cowardice. The
+country on top was covered with volcanic cinders. There
+was little water to be found, and in many ways it was
+just as inhospitable as the canyon. The cook had a
+pan of biscuits, which he left on a rock for them, after
+the men had helped the party lift the boats over the rocks
+at the head of the rapid. After landing in safety around
+a bend which hid them from sight, the boating party
+fired their guns, hoping they would hear the report, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266"></span>follow in the abandoned boat. It is doubtful if they
+could hear the sound of the guns, above the roar of the
+rapid. If they did, they paid no attention to it. The
+younger Howland wished to remain with the party, but
+threw his lot with his brother, when he withdrew.</p>
+
+<p>While these men did not have the Major’s deep scientific
+interest in the successful completion of this exploration,
+they undoubtedly should have stayed with their
+leader, if their services were needed or desired. It is more
+than likely that they were insubordinate; they certainly
+made a misguided attempt, but in spite of these facts it
+scarcely seems just to brand them as cowards. Two
+days after they left, the boating party was camped at the
+end of the canyons.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp51" id="i_266-fp" style="max-width: 43.3125em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_266-fp.jpg" alt="A barefoot man wearing a simple feather headdress and a loincloth stands in the sunlight facing a waterfall.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CAPTAIN BURRO: A HA VA SUPAI.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_267"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">
+    CHAPTER XXIII</h3>
+<h4>THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> first section of Separation Rapid was run the
+first thing in the morning, a manœuvre that was accomplished
+by starting on the left shore and crossing the
+swift centre clear to the other shore. This allowed us to
+reach some quiet water near a small deposit of rock and
+earth at the base of the sheer wall. Two feet of water
+would have covered this deposit; likewise two feet of
+water would have given us a clear channel over this
+second section. As it was, the rapid was rough, with many
+rocks very near the surface. Directly across from us,
+close to the left shore, was what looked like a ten-foot
+geyser, or fountain of water. This was caused by a rock
+in the path of a strong current rebounding from the shore.
+The water ran up on the side near the wall, then fell on
+all sides. It was seldom the water had force enough to
+carry to the top of a rock as large as that. This portage
+of the second section was one of the easiest we had made.
+By rolling a few large rocks around we could get a stream
+of water across our small shore large enough to float an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268"></span>empty boat with a little help, so we lightened them of the
+cargo and floated them through our canal. While running
+the third section the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> was carried up on the
+sloping rock in the middle of the stream; she paused a
+moment, then came down like a shot and whirled around
+to the side without mishap. This made the thirteenth
+rapid in which both boats were lined or portaged. In
+three other rapids one boat was run through and one was
+portaged. Half of all these rapids were located in the
+Grand Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>All this time we were anxiously looking forward to a
+rapid which Mr. Stone had described as being the worst in
+the entire series, also the last rapid we would be likely to portage
+and had informed us that below this particular rapid
+everything could be run with little or no inspection. Naturally
+we were anxious to get that rapid behind us. It was
+described as being located below a small stream flowing
+from the south. The same rapid was described by Major
+Powell as having a bold, lava-capped escarpment at the
+head of the rapid, on the right. We had not seen any
+lava since leaving Diamond Creek, and an entry in my
+notes reads, “we have gone over Stone’s ‘big rapid’ three
+times and it is still ahead of us.” The knowledge that
+there was a big rapid in the indefinite somewhere that
+was likely to cause us trouble seemed to give us more
+anxious moments than the many unmentioned rapids
+we were finding all this time. We wondered how high
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269"></span>the escarpment was, and if we could take our boats over
+its top. We tried to convince ourselves that it was
+behind us, although sure that it could not be. But the
+absence of lava puzzled us. After one “bad” rapid and
+several “good” rapids we came to a sharp turn in the
+canyon. Emery was ahead and called back, “I see a
+little stream”; Bert joined with “I see the lava”; and
+the “Bold Escarpment Rapid,” as we had been calling
+it for some time, was before us. It was more than a nasty
+rapid, it was a cataract!</p>
+
+<p>What a din that water sent up! We had to yell to
+make ourselves heard. The air vibrated with the impact
+of water against rock. The rapid was nearly half a
+mile long. There were two sections near its head staggered
+with great rocks, forty of them, just above or
+slightly submerged under the surface of the water. Our
+low stage of water helped us, so that we did not have to
+line the boats from the ledge, eighty feet above the water,
+as others had done. The rapid broke just below the
+lower end of the sheer rock, which extended twenty feet
+beyond the irregular shore. The <i class="shipname">Edith</i> went first, headed
+upstream, at a slight angle nearly touching the wall,
+dropping a few inches between each restraining stroke of
+the oars. Bert crouched on the bow, ready to spring
+with the rope, as soon as Emery passed the wall and
+headed her in below the wall. Jumping to the shore, he
+took a snub around a boulder and kept her from being
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270"></span>dragged into the rapid. Then they both caught the
+<i class="shipname">Defiance</i> as she swung in below the rock, and half the
+battle was won before we tackled the rapid.</p>
+
+<p>Our days were short, and we did not take the boats
+down until the next day; but we did carry much of the
+camp material and cargo halfway down over ledges a
+hundred feet above the river. For a bad rapid we were
+very fortunate in getting past it as easily as we did. Logs
+were laid over rocks, the boats were skidded over them
+about their own length and dropped in again. Logs
+and boats were lined down in the swift, but less riotous
+water, to the next barrier, which was more difficult. A
+ten-foot rounded boulder lay close to the shore, with
+smaller rocks, smooth and ice-filmed, scattered between.
+Powerful currents swirled between these rocks and disappeared
+under two others, wedged closely together on
+top. Three times the logs were snatched from our grasp
+as we tried to bridge them across this current, and they
+vanished in the foam, to shoot out end first, twenty feet
+below and race away on the leaping water. A boat
+would be smashed to kindling-wood if once carried under
+there. At last we got our logs wedged, and an hour of
+tugging, in which only two men could take part at
+the same time, landed both boats in safety below this
+barrier. We shot the remainder of the rapid on water
+so swift that the oars were snatched from our hands if
+we tried to do more than keep the boats straight
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271"></span>with the current. That rapid was no longer the “Bold
+Escarpment,” but the “Last Portage” instead, and it
+was behind us.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp60" id="i_270-fp" style="max-width: 50.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_270-fp.jpg" alt="Two men lifting a boat around huge boulders next to the river.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller">H. LAUZON. &emsp; E. L. KOLB. &emsp; <i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE LAST PORTAGE. THE ROCKS WERE ICE-FILMED. NOTE POTHOLES.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The afternoon was half gone when we made ready
+pull away from the Last Portage. There were other
+rapids, but scarcely a pause was made in our two-hour run,
+and we camped away from the roar of water. The
+canyon was widening out a little at a time; the granite
+disappeared in the following day’s run, at noon. Grass-covered
+slopes, with seeping mineral springs, took the
+place of precipitous walls; they dropped to 2500 feet
+in height; numerous side canyons cut the walls in regular
+sections like gigantic city blocks, instead of an unbroken
+avenue. Small rapids continued to appear,
+there were a few small islands, and divided currents, so
+shallow they sometimes kept us guessing which one to
+take, but we continued to run them all without a pause.
+We would have run out of the canyon that day but for
+one thing. Five mountain-sheep were seen from our
+boats in one of the sloping grassy meadows above the
+river. We landed below, carried our cameras back, and
+spent half an hour in trying to see them again, but they
+had taken alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Placer claim locations and fresh burro tracks were
+seen in the sand at our last Grand Canyon camp, and a
+half mile below us we could see out into open country.
+We found the walls, or the end of the table-land, to be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272"></span>about two thousand feet high, with the canyon emerging
+at a sharp angle so that a narrow ridge, or “hogs-back”
+lay on the left side of the stream. Once out in the open,
+the walls were seen to be quite steep, but could be climbed
+to the top almost any place without trouble. Saturday,
+January the 13th, we were out of the canyon at last, and
+the towering walls, now friendly, now menacing, were
+behind us. Three hundred and sixty-five large rapids,
+and nearly twice as many small rapids, were behind us
+and the dream of ten years was an accomplished fact.
+But best of all, there were no tragedies or fatalities to
+record. Perhaps we did look a little the worse for wear,
+but a few days away from the river would repair all that.
+The boats had a bump here and there, besides the one
+big patch on the <i class="shipname">Edith</i>; a little mending and a little
+caulking would put both the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> and <i class="shipname">Defiance</i> in first-class
+condition.</p>
+
+<p>There is little of interest to record of our 175-mile
+run to Needles, California. It was a land of desolation—an
+extension of the Mojave Desert on the south, and
+the alkaline flats and mineral mountains of Nevada on the
+north, of Death Valley and the Funeral Mountains of California
+to the northwest—a burned-out land of grim-looking
+mountains extending north and south across our way; a
+dried-out, washed-out, and wind-swept land of extensive
+flats and arroyos; a land of rock and gravel cemented in
+marls and clay; ungraced with any but the desert plants,—cactus
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273"></span>and thorny shrubs,—with little that was pleasing
+or attractive. A desert land it is true, but needing only
+the magic touch of water to transform much of it into a
+garden spot. Even as it was, a few months later it
+would be covered with the flaming blossoms of the desert
+growth, which seem to try to make amends in one or
+two short months for nearly a year of desolation.</p>
+
+<p>A wash ran along the base of the plateau from which
+we had emerged. An abandoned road and ferry showed
+that this had once been a well-travelled route. The
+stream had a good current and we pulled away, only
+stopping once to see the last of our plateau before a turn
+and deepening banks hid it from view. We wondered
+if the water ever dropped in a precipitous fall over the
+face of the wall and worked back, a little every year, as
+it does at Niagara. We could hardly doubt that there
+were some such falls back in the dim past when these
+canyons were being carved.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of the afternoon we passed a ranch or
+a house with a little garden, occupied by two miners,
+who hailed us from the shore. A half-mile below was the
+Scanlon Ferry, a binding tie between Arizona, on the
+south and what was now Nevada, on the north, for we
+had reached the boundary line shortly after emerging
+from the canyon. We still travelled nearly directly west.
+The ferry was in charge of a Cornishman who also had
+as pretty a little ranch as one could expect to find in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274"></span>such an unlikely place. A purling stream of water,
+piped from somewhere up in the hills, had caused the
+transformation. The ranch was very homey with cattle
+and horses, sheep and hogs, dogs and cats, all sleek and
+contented-looking. The garden proved that this country
+had a warm climate, although we were not suffering from
+heat at that time. An effort was being made to grow
+some orange trees, but with little promise of success;
+there were fig trees and date-palms, with frozen dates
+hanging on the branches, one effect of the coldest winter
+they had seen in this section.</p>
+
+<p>The rancher told us he could not sell us anything that
+had to be brought in, for it was seventy miles to the
+railroad, but we could look over such supplies as he had.
+It ended by his selling us a chicken, two dozen eggs,
+five pounds of honey, and ten pounds of flour,—all for
+$2.50. We did not leave until the next morning, then
+bought another jar of honey, for we had no sugar, and two-thirds
+of the first jar was eaten before we left the ferry.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp60" id="i_274-fp" style="max-width: 50.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_274-fp.jpg" alt="A waterfall gushes midway down a canyon wall into the river below.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">MOONEY FALLS: HA VA SU CANYON.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We pulled away in such a hurry the next morning
+that we forgot an axe that had been carried with us for
+the entire journey. A five-hour run brought us to the
+mouth of the Virgin River, a sand-bar a mile wide, and
+with a red-coloured stream little larger than Cataract
+Creek winding through it. We had once seen this stream
+near its head waters, a beautiful mountain creek, that
+seemed to bear no relation to this repulsive-looking stream
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275"></span>that entered from the north. A large, flat-topped, adobe
+building, apparently deserted, stood off at one side of the
+stream. This was the head of navigation for flat-bottomed
+steamboats that once plied between here
+and the towns on the lower end of the river. They
+carried supplies for small mines scattered through the
+mountains and took out cargoes of ore, and of rock salt
+which was mined back in Nevada.</p>
+
+<p>It was here at the Virgin River that Major Powell
+concluded his original voyage of exploration. Some of
+his men took the boats on down to Fort Mojave, a few
+miles above Needles; afterwards two of the party continued
+on to the Gulf. The country below the Virgin
+River had been explored by several parties, but previous
+to this time nothing definite was known of the
+gorges until this exploration by this most remarkable
+man. The difficulties of this hazardous trip were increased
+for him by the fact that he had lost an arm in
+the Civil War.</p>
+
+<p>It is usually taken for granted that the United States
+government was back of this exploration. This was
+true of the second expedition, but not of the first. Major
+Powell was aided to a certain extent by the State College
+of Illinois, otherwise he bore all the expense himself.
+We received $10,000 from the government to apply on
+the expenses of the second trip.</p>
+
+<p>We felt that we had some reason to feel a justifiable
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276"></span>pride for having duplicated, in some ways, this arduous
+journey. It was impossible for us to do more than guess
+what must have been the feelings and anxieties of this
+explorer. Added to the fact that we had boats, tested
+and constructed to meet the requirements of the river,
+and the benefit of others’ experiences, was a knowledge
+that we were not likely to be precipitated over a waterfall,
+or if we lost everything and succeeded in climbing out,
+that there were a few ranches and distant settlements
+scattered through the country.</p>
+
+<p>But we had traversed the same river and the same
+canyons which change but little from year to year, and
+had succeeded beyond our fondest hopes in having accomplished
+what we set out to do.</p>
+
+<p>The Black Mountains, dark and forbidding, composed
+of a hard rock which gave a metallic clink, and decorated
+with large spots of white, yellow, vermilion, and
+purple deposits of volcanic ashes, were entered this afternoon.
+The peaks were about a thousand feet high.
+The passage between is known as Boulder Canyon.
+Here we met two miners at work on a tunnel, or drift,
+who informed us that it was about forty miles to Las
+Vegas, Nevada, and that it was only twenty-five miles
+from the mouth of Las Vegas Wash, farther down the
+river, to this same town and the railroad.</p>
+
+<p>Fort Callville—an abandoned rock building, constructed
+by the directions of Brigham Young, without
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277"></span>windows or roof, and surrounded by stone corrals—was
+passed the next day. At Las Vegas Wash the river
+turned at right angles, going directly south, holding with
+very little deviation to this general direction until it
+empties into the Gulf of California nearly five hundred
+miles away. The river seemed to be growing smaller
+as we got out in the open country. Like all Western
+rivers, when unprotected by canyons, it was sinking in
+the sand. Sand-bars impeded our progress at such places
+as the mouth of the Wash. But we had a good current,
+without rapids in Black Canyon, which came shortly
+below, and mile after mile was put behind us before we
+camped for the night.</p>
+
+<p>An old stamp-mill, closed for the time, but in charge
+of three men who were making preparations to resume
+work, was passed the next day. They had telephone
+communication with Searchlight, Nevada, twenty odd
+miles away, and we sent out some telegrams in that way.</p>
+
+<p>More sand-bars were encountered the next day, and
+ranches began to appear on both sides of the river. We
+had difficulty on some of these bars. In places the river
+bed was a mile wide, with stagnant pools above the sand,
+and with one deep channel twisting between. At Fort
+Mojave, now an Indian school and agency, we telephoned
+to some friends in Needles, as we had promised
+to do, telling them we would arrive about noon of the
+following day. We made a mistake in not camping at
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278"></span>the high ground by the “fort” that night, for just below
+the river widened again and the channel turned out in
+the centre. It was getting dark and we had entered this
+before noticing which way it turned, and had a hard pull
+back to the shore, for we had no desire to camp out there
+in the quicksand. The shore was little more desirable.
+It was a marsh, covered with a growth of flags and tules
+but with the ground frozen enough so that we did not sink.
+Our last camp—No. 76—was made in this marsh.
+There we spent the night, hidden like hunted savages
+in the cane-brake, while an Indian brass band played
+some very good music for an officers’ ball, less than half
+a mile away.</p>
+
+<p>We were up and away with the sun the next morning.
+On nearing Needles, a friend met us on the outskirts
+of the town and informed us that they had arranged
+what he called an official landing and reception.
+At his request we deferred going down at once, but busied
+ourselves instead at packing our cargo, ready for shipping.
+Our friend had secured the services of a motion-picture
+operator and our own camera was sent down to
+make a picture of the landing, which was made as he had
+arranged.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp57" id="i_278-fp" style="max-width: 47.5625em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_278-fp.jpg" alt="Edith stands on a bench looking through a huge telescope, supported on a tripod, extending out the window. Her mother wraps one arm around Edith's waist and uses the other to balance the telescope.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">WATCHING FOR THE SIGNAL FIRE. MRS. EMERY AND EDITH KOLB.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We landed in Needles January 18, 1912; one month from
+the time of our start from Bright Angel Trail, with a total
+of one hundred and one days spent along the river. In
+that time our camps had been changed seventy-six times.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279"></span>Our two boats, highly prized as souvenirs of our twelve
+hundred mile trip, and which had carried us through
+three hundred and sixty-five big rapids, over a total descent
+of more than five thousand feet, were loaded on cars
+ready for shipment; the <i class="shipname">Edith</i> to Los Angeles, the <i class="shipname">Defiance</i>
+to the Grand Canyon.</p>
+
+<p>Among other mail awaiting us was the following letter,
+bearing the postmark of Hite, Utah:</p>
+
+
+<p class="smcap">“KOLB BROS.,</p>
+
+<p class="smcap">“DEAR FRIENDS:</p>
+
+<p>“Well I got here at last after seventeen days in
+Cataract Canyon. The old boat will stand a little quiet
+water but will never go through another rapid. I certainly
+played ‘ring-a-round’ some of those rocks in
+Cataract Canyon; I tried every scheme I had ever
+heard of, and some that were never thought of before.
+At the last rapid in Cataract I carried all my stuff over
+the cliff, then tried to line the boat from the narrow ledge.
+The boat jerked me into the river, but I did not lose my
+hold on the chain and climbed on board. I had no oars,
+but managed to get through without striking any rocks,
+and landed a mile and a half below the supplies. I hope
+the ‘movies’ are good.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_7_7" href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>&#x2060;</p>
+
+<p>“Sincerely yours,</p>
+
+<p>“CHAS. SMITH.”</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CONCLUSION_HOW_I_WENT_TO_MEXICO">
+    CONCLUSION. HOW I WENT TO MEXICO<br>
+    CHAPTER XXIV</h3>
+<h4>ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A westward-bound</span> train was bearing me across the
+Mojave Desert one day in May. In a few swiftly passing
+hours we had made a six-thousand foot descent from the
+plateau with its fir and aspen-covered mountain, its cedar
+and piñon-clothed foot-hills, and its extensive forests of
+yellow pine. Crimson and yellow-flowered cactus, sage
+and chaparral, succeeded the pines. The cool mountains
+had given way to burned-out, umber-coloured hills, rock-ribbed
+arroyos, and seemingly endless desert; and the
+sun was growing hotter every minute.</p>
+
+<p>If the heat continued to increase, I doubted if I would
+care to take a half-planned Colorado River trip down
+to the Gulf. Visions of the California beaches, of fishing
+at Catalina and of horseback rides over the Sierra’s trails,
+nearly unsettled my determination to stop at Needles,
+on the California side of the river. This was my vacation!
+Why undergo all the discomfort of a voyage on
+a desert stream, when the pleasures and comforts of the
+Pacific beckoned? One thing was sure, if I was not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281"></span>successful in securing a boat at Needles, the very next
+train would find me on board, bound for the Western
+Slope. By mid-afternoon the chaparral had disappeared
+and only the cactus remained—the ocotilla,
+covered with a million flowers, wave upon wave of crimson
+flame, against the yellow earth. Violet-veiled mountains
+appeared in the west, marking the southern trend
+of the Colorado. The air was suffocating. The train-created
+wind was like a blast from a furnace; yet with
+the electric fans whirring, with blinds drawn and windows
+closed to keep the withering air <i>out</i>, it seemed a little less
+uncomfortable in the car, in spite of the unvitalized air,
+than under the scorching sun.</p>
+
+<p>We were beside the Colorado at last. I had a good
+view of the stream below, as we crossed the bridge—the
+Colorado in flood, muddy, turbulent, sweeping onward
+like an affrighted thing,—repulsive, yet with a
+fascination for me, born of an intimate acquaintance
+with the dangers of this stream. The river had called
+again! The heat was forgotten, the visions of the coast
+faded, for me the train could not reach Needles, ten
+miles up the river, quickly enough.</p>
+
+<p>With my brother, I had followed this stream down
+to Needles, through a thousand miles of canyon. I had
+seen how it carved its way through the mountains, carrying
+them on, in solution, toward the ocean. At last I
+would see what became of all these misplaced mountains.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282"></span>I would see the tidal bore as it swept in from the Gulf.
+I had heard there were wild hogs which burrowed through
+the cane-brake. It may be that I would learn of a vessel
+at some port down on the Mexican coast, which I might
+reach and which would take me around the Lower California
+Peninsula. I felt sure there was such a port. No
+doubt I could have found books to tell me exactly what
+I would see, but too much information would spoil all
+the romance of such an adventure. It was all very
+alluring. With the spring flood on, the river could not
+help but be interesting and exciting, a pretty good imitation
+of the rapids, perhaps. If I could only secure a boat!</p>
+
+<p>Half an hour later I was meeting old acquaintances
+about the hotel, connected with the station. The genial
+hotel manager, with the Irish name, was smilingly explaining
+to some newcomers that this was not hot; that
+“a dry heat at 110 degrees was not nearly as bad as 85
+degrees back in Chicago,” “and as for heat,” he continued,
+“why down in Yuma”—then he caught sight of me,
+with a grin on my face, and perhaps he remembered that
+I had heard him say the same thing two years before,
+when it was even hotter; and he came over with out-stretched
+hand,—calling me uncomplimentary names,
+under his breath, for spoiling the effect of his explanation;
+all which was belied by his welcome. It takes an Irishman
+to run a big hotel in the middle of the desert.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_282-fp" style="max-width: 49.875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_282-fp.jpg" alt="River at the base of jaggged rock cliffs on either side.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE GRANITE GORGE, THIRTEEN HUNDRED FEET DEEP. NEAR BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A few inquiries brought out the information that I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283"></span>was not likely to get a boat. The stores did not keep
+them. I should have given my order two weeks before
+to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00 a foot.
+This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted—well
+say, about $15.00 worth. It would look something
+like a tub, wouldn’t it? Perhaps it was to be the coast,
+for me, after all.</p>
+
+<p>The Colorado River in flood is a terrible stream.
+Unlike the Eastern rivers, there are no populous cities—with
+apologies to Needles and Yuma—along its shores,
+to be inundated with the floods. Unlike the rivers
+of the South, few great agricultural districts spread
+across its bottoms. Along the upper seven hundred
+miles there are not a half-dozen ranches with twenty-five
+acres under cultivation. But if destructive power and
+untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado River,
+in flood, is a terrible stream.</p>
+
+<p>After changing into some comfortable clothes I
+sauntered past the railway machine shops down to
+the river, and up to where a fight was being waged to
+save the upper part of the town from being torn away
+by the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock
+had been dumped along the river bank, only to disappear
+in the quicksands; and as yet no bottom had been
+reached. Up to this point the fight was about equal.
+The flood would not reach its crest until two or three
+weeks later.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284"></span></p>
+
+<p>Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by
+the river. The workmen had finished their day’s labour.
+A ferryman said that I might talk an Indian into selling
+his boat, but it was doubtful. My next job was to find
+such an Indian.</p>
+
+<p>A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty
+bed spring, slung on a home-made frame, before his
+willow and adobe home, close to the Colorado River. In
+answer to my repeated question he uncoiled and stretched
+the full length of his six foot six couch, grunted a few
+words in his native tongue to other Indians without a
+glance in my direction, then indifferently closed his eyes
+again. A young Indian in semi-cowboy garb,—not
+omitting a gorgeous silk handkerchief about his neck,—jabbered
+awhile with some grinning squaws, then said in
+perfectly understandable English, “He will sell his boat
+for $18.00. It is worth $30.00.” This was decisive for
+an Indian. It usually takes a half-day of bickering to
+get them to make any kind of a bargain. I told him I
+would take it in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>It was a well-constructed boat, almost new, built of
+inch pine, flat-bottomed, and otherwise quite similar in
+shape to the boats my brother and I had used on
+our twelve hundred mile journey through the canyons
+of the Green and Colorado rivers,—but without the
+graceful lines and swells that made those other boats so
+valuable to us in rapids. The boat was nearly new and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285"></span>well worth $30.00, as boat prices went in that town.
+Why he was willing to sell it for $18.00, or at the rate
+of $1.00 a foot, I could not imagine. It was the first
+bargain an Indian had ever offered me. But if I paid
+for it that evening, there were doubts in my mind if I
+should find it in the morning, so I delayed closing the
+bargain and went back again to inspect the boat.</p>
+
+<p>That evening I inquired among my acquaintances if
+there was any one who would care to accompany me. If
+so I would give them passage to Yuma, or to the Gulf of
+California in Mexico, if they wished it. But no one could
+go, or those who could, wouldn’t. One would have
+thought from the stories with which I was regaled, that
+the rapids of the Grand Canyon were below Needles, and
+as for going to the Gulf, it was suicide. I was told of the
+outlaws along the border, of the firearms and opium
+smugglers, who shot first and questioned afterward, and
+of the insurrectos of Lower California. The river had no
+real outlet to the ocean, they said, since the break into
+Salton Sea, but spread over a cane-brake, thirty miles or
+more in width. Many people had gone into these swamps
+and never returned, whether lost in the jungles or killed
+by the Cocopah Indians, no one knew. They simply
+disappeared. It was all very alluring.</p>
+
+<p>My preparations, the next day, were few. I had included
+a sleeping bag with my baggage. It would come
+in equally handy whether I went down on the Colorado
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286"></span>or up into the Coast Range. A frying-pan, a coffee-pot
+a few metal dishes and provisions for a week were all I
+needed. Someone suggested some bent poles, and a
+cover, such as are used on wagons to keep off the sun.
+This seemed like a good idea; and I hunted up a carpenter
+who did odd jobs. He did not have such a one, but he
+did have an old wagon-seat cover, which could be raised
+or dropped at will. This was even better, for sometimes
+hard winds sweep up the river. The cover was fastened
+to the sides of the boat. The boat, meanwhile, had been
+thoroughly scrubbed. It looked clean before, but I was
+not going to take any chances at carrying Indian live-stock
+along with his boat. My surplus baggage was sent
+on to Los Angeles, and twenty-four hours after I had
+landed in Needles, I was ready to embark.</p>
+
+<p>My experience in camping trips of various sorts has
+been that the start from headquarters occupies more time
+than any similar preparation. Once on the road, things
+naturally arrange themselves into some kind of a system,
+and an hour on the road in the evening means several
+hours gained the next morning. Added to this, there are
+always a number of loafers about railroad towns, and
+small things have a way of disappearing. With this
+in mind, I determined to make my start that evening,
+and at 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on the 23d of May, 1913, I embarked on a
+six to eight mile an hour current, paced by cottonwood
+logs, carried down by the flood from the head waters in
+Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_286-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_286-fp.jpg" alt="High contrast photo of the top of the canyon. Dramatic lighting of clouds in the sky and canyon peaks below.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE GRAND CANYON FROM THE HEAD OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_287"></span></p>
+
+<p>When sailing on the unruffled current one did not
+notice its swiftness—it sped so quietly yet at the same
+time with such deadly intent—until some half submerged
+cottonwood snags appeared, their jagged, broken
+limbs ploughing the stream exactly like the bow of a motor-driven
+boat, throwing two diverging lines of waves far
+down the stream. One would almost think the boat was
+motionless, it raced so smoothly,—and that the snags
+were tearing upstream as a river man had said, the day
+before, “like a dog with a bone in his teeth.” A sunken
+stone-boat, with a cabin half submerged, seemed propelled
+by some unseen power and rapidly dwindled in
+the distance.</p>
+
+<p>So fascinating were these things that I forgot the
+approaching night. I first noticed it when the stream
+slackened its mad pace and spread over its banks into
+great wide marshes, in divided and subdivided channels
+and over submerged islands, with nothing but willow and
+fuzzy cattail tops to indicate that there was a bottom
+underneath. Here there was no place to camp had I
+wished to do so. Once I missed the main channel and
+had a difficult time in finding my way back in the dark.
+After two or three miles of this quiet current, the streams
+began to unite again, and the river regained its former
+speed. I was growing weary after the first excitement,
+and began to wish myself well out of it all and safely
+anchored to the shore. But I knew there was a level
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288"></span>bank above the river close to the bridge, which would
+make a good camping place; so I rested on my oars
+facing down the stream with eyes and ears alert for the
+treacherous snags. Then the stars began to appear,
+one by one, lighting up the cloudless sky; a moist, tropical-like
+breeze moved up the stream, the channel narrowed
+and deepened, the snags vanished, and the stream increased
+its swiftness.</p>
+
+<p>And with eyes wide open, but unseeing, I dozed.</p>
+
+<p>It was the lights of a passenger train crossing the
+bridge, just a short distance away, that made me realize
+where I was. The train thundered into the darkness;
+but louder than the roar of the train was that of the
+water directly ahead, and hidden in the impenetrable
+shadow over on the right shore was a noise much like
+that made by a Grand Canyon rapid.</p>
+
+<p>Wide awake now, I pulled for the left, and after
+one or two attempts to land, I caught some willow tops
+and guided the boat to the raised bank. Beyond the
+willows was a higher ground, covered with a mesquite
+thicket, with cattle trails winding under the thorny
+trees. Here I unrolled my sleeping bag, then went up to
+interview the operator and the watchman, and to get a
+drink of clear water, for I had no desire to drink the
+liquid mud of the Colorado until it was necessary. In
+answer to a question I told them of my little ride. One of
+the men exclaimed, “You don’t mean to say that you
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289"></span>came down on the flood after dark!” On being informed
+that I had just arrived, he exclaimed: “Well I reckon you
+don’t know what the Colorado is. It’s a wonder this
+whirlpool didn’t break you against the pier. You ought
+to have brought some one with you to see you drown!”</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">
+    CHAPTER XXV</h3>
+<h4>FOUR DAYS TO YUMA
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> sunrise the following morning, I had completed
+my few camp duties, finished my breakfast
+and dropped my boat into the whirlpool above the bridge.
+My two friends watched the manœuvre as I pulled clear
+of the logs and the piers which caused the water to
+make such alarming sounds the night before; then they
+gave me a final word of caution, and the information
+that the Parker Bridge was sixty miles away and that
+Yuma was two hundred and fifty miles down the stream.
+They thought that I should reach Yuma in a week. It
+seemed but a few minutes until the bridge was a mile
+up the stream. Now I was truly embarked for the
+gulf.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_290-fp" style="max-width: 49.1875em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_290-fp.jpg" alt="A long train of burros and pedestrians travel down the trail towards the canyon floor.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">THE CORK SCREW: LOWER END OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>By the time I had reached the spire-like mountainous
+rocks a few miles below the bridge, which gave the town
+of Needles its name, the sun was well up and I was beginning
+to learn what desert heat was, although I had
+little time to think of it as I was kept so busy with my
+boat. Here, the stream which was spread a mile wide
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291"></span>above, had choked down to two hundred feet; small
+violent whirlpools formed at the abrupt turns in this
+so-called canyon and the water tore from side to side.
+In one whirl my boat was twice carried around the circle
+into which I had allowed it to be caught, then shot out
+on the pounding flood. Soon the slag-like mountains
+were passed and the country began to spread, first in a
+high barren land, then with a bottom land running back
+from the river. The willow bushes changed to willow
+trees, tall and spindly, crowded in a thicket down to the
+river’s edge. The Chemehuevi Indians have their reservation
+here. On rounding an abrupt turn I surprised
+two little naked children, fat as butterballs, dabbling
+in a mud puddle close to the stream. The sight, coupled
+with the tropical-like heat and the jungle, could well
+make one imagine he was in Africa or India, and that the
+little brown bodies were the “alligator bait” of which we
+read. Only the ’gators were missing. The unexpected
+sight of a boat and a white man trying to photograph
+them started them both into a frightened squall. Then an
+indignant mother appeared, staring at me as though she
+would like to know what I had done to her offspring.
+Farther along were other squaws, with red and blue lines
+pencilled on their childlike, contented faces, seated under the
+willows. Their cotton garments, of red and blue bandanna
+handkerchiefs sewed together, added a gay bit of colour
+to the scene.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292"></span></p>
+
+<p>Below this were two or three cozy little ranch houses
+and a few scattered cattle ranches, with cattle browsing
+back in the trees. All this time it was getting hotter, and
+I was thankful for my sheltering cover. My lunch, prepared
+in the morning, was eaten as I drifted. Except in
+a few quiet stretches I did little rowing, just enough
+to keep the boat away from the overhanging banks and
+in the strong current.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom lands began to build up again with banks
+of gravel and clay, growing higher with every mile.
+The deciduous trees gave way to the desert growths:
+the cholla, “the shower of gold,” and the palo verde and
+the other acacias. Here were the California or valley-quail;
+and lean, long-legged jack-rabbits. Here too
+were the coyotes, leaner than the rabbits, but efficient,
+shifty-eyed, and insolent. One could admire but could
+hardly respect them.</p>
+
+<p>I had entertained hopes of reaching Parker that evening,
+but supposed the hour would be late if I reached it
+at all. Imagine my surprise, then, when at half-past four
+I heard the whistle of a train, and another turn revealed
+the Parker bridge. I had been told by others that it had
+taken them three or four days to reach this point on a
+low stage of water. Evidently the high water is much
+better for rapid and interesting travel.</p>
+
+<p>Here at the bridge, which was a hundred feet above the
+river, was a dredge, and an old flat-bottomed steamboat,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293"></span>a relic of a few years past, before the government built
+the Laguna dam above Yuma, and condemned the
+Colorado as a navigable stream. Those were the days
+which the Colorado steamboat men recall with as much
+fond remembrance as the old-time boatmen of the Mississippi
+remember their palmy days.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the fact that the boats were flat-bottomed
+and small, it was real steamboating of an exciting nature
+at least. At times they beat up against the current as
+far as the mouth of the Rio Virgin. In low water the
+channels shifted back and forth first choked with sand on
+one side of the stream, then on the other. While the
+total fall from Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles,
+to the Gulf is only 525 feet, considerable of that fall
+came in short sections, first with a swift descent, then in a
+quiet stretch. Even in the high-water stage I was finding
+some such places.</p>
+
+<p>Parker stood a mile back from the river, on top of the
+level gravelly earth which stretched for miles on either
+side of the river clear to the mountains. This earth
+and gravel mixture was so firmly packed that even the
+cactus had a scant foothold. The town interested me
+for one reason only, this being, that I could get my meals
+for the evening and the following morning, instead of
+having to cook them myself. After I had eaten them,
+however, there was a question in my mind if my own cooking,
+bad as it was, would not have answered the purpose
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294"></span>just as well. The place was a new railroad town on an
+Indian reservation, a town of great expectations, somewhat
+deferred.</p>
+
+<p>It was not as interesting to me as my next stop at
+Ahrenburg, some fifty miles below Parker. This place
+while nothing but a collection of dilapidated adobe
+buildings, had an air of romance about it which was
+missing in the newer town. Ahrenburg had seen its day.
+Many years ago it was a busy mining camp, and the hope
+is entertained by the faithful who still reside in its picturesque
+adobe homes that it will come back with renewed
+vigour. Here at Ahrenburg I met a character who added
+greatly to the interest of my stay. He was a gigantic,
+raw-boned Frenchman, at that time engaged in the
+construction of a motor boat; but a miner, a sailor, and
+a soldier of fortune in many ways, one who had pried into
+many of the hidden corners of the country and had a
+graphic way of describing what he had seen. I was his
+guest until late that night, and was entertained royally
+on what humble fare he had to offer. We both intended
+to renew our acquaintance in the morning, but some
+prowling Mexicans near my boat, croaking frogs, and
+swarms of mosquitos gave me a restless night. With the
+first glimmer of daylight I was up, and half an hour later
+I was away on the flood.</p>
+
+<p>This was my big day. The current was better than
+much of that above; I was getting used to the heat, and,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295"></span>instead of idly drifting, I pulled steadily at the oars.
+The river twisted back and forth in great loops with the
+strong current, as is usual, always on the outside of the
+loops, close to the overhanging banks. I would keep
+my boat in this current, with a wary lookout over my
+shoulder for fallen trees and sudden turns, which had
+a way of appearing when least expected. At some such
+places the stream was engaged at undermining the banks
+which rose eight and ten feet above the water. Occasional
+sections, containing tons of earth and covered with tall,
+slender willow trees, would topple over, falling on the
+water with the roar of a cannon or a continued salute of
+cannons; for the falling, once started, quite often extended
+for half a mile down the stream. At one such place
+eighteen trees fell in three minutes, and it would be safe
+to say that a hundred trees were included in the extended
+fall. The trees, sixty feet high, resembled a field of
+gigantic grass or unripened grain; the river was a reaper,
+cutting it away at the roots. Over they tumbled to be
+buried in the stream; the water would swirl and boil,
+earth and trees would disappear; then the mass of leaf-covered
+timber, freed of the earth, would wash away to
+lodge on the first sand-bar, and the formation of a new
+island or a new shore would begin.</p>
+
+<p>Then again, the banks were barren, composed of
+gravel and clay, centuries older than the verdure-covered
+land, undisturbed, possibly, since some glacial period deposited
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296"></span>it there. But a shifting of the channel directed
+the attack against these banks. Here the swift current
+would find a little irregularity on the surface and would
+begin its cutting. The sand-laden water bored exactly
+like an auger, in fast-cutting whirls. One such place I
+watched for a half-hour from the very beginning, until
+the undermined section, fourteen feet high, began to
+topple, and I pulled out to safety, but not far enough to
+escape a ducking in the resulting wave.</p>
+
+<p>Below this, instead of a firm earth, it was a loose sand
+and gravel mixture twenty feet above the river. Here
+for half a mile the entire bank was moving, slowly at
+the top, gathering speed at the bottom. While close to
+this I heard a peculiar hissing as of carbonated water
+all about me. At first I thought there were mineral
+springs underneath, but found the noise was caused by
+breaking air bubbles carried under the stream with
+the sands. All this day such phenomena continued,
+sliding sand-banks and tumbling jungles. In these
+latter places some cattle had suffered. Their trails
+ran parallel with the stream. No doubt they had one or
+two places where they drank cut down to the stream.
+Knowing nothing of the cutting underneath, they had
+been precipitated into the flood, and now their carcasses
+were food for swarms of vultures gathered for an unholy
+feast.</p>
+
+<p>What powerful, graceful birds these scavengers are,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297"></span>stronger than the eagle even, tireless and seemingly
+motionless as they drift along searching every nook and
+cranny for their provender! But aside from a grudgingly
+given tribute of admiration for their power, one has
+about as much respect for them as for the equally graceful
+rattlesnake, that other product of nature which flourishes
+in this desert land.</p>
+
+<p>The bird life along this lower part of the river was
+wonderful in its variety. The birds of the desert mingled
+with those of the fertile lands. The song-birds vied with
+those of gorgeous plume. Water-birds disported themselves
+in the mud-banks and sloughs. The smaller birds
+seemed to pay little attention to the nearness of the
+hawks. Kingfisher perched on limbs overhanging the
+quiet pools, ready to drop at the faintest movement on
+the opaque water; the road-runner chased the festive
+lizard on the desert land back of the willows. Here
+also in the mesquite and giant cactus were thrush and
+Western meadow-larks and mocking-birds mimicking the
+call of the cat-bird. Down in the brush by the river was
+the happy little water-ousel, as cheerful in his way as
+the dumpy-built musical canyon wren. The Mexican
+crossbill appeared to have little fear of the migrating
+Northern shrike. There were warblers, cardinals, tanagers,
+waxwings, song-sparrows, and chickadees. Flitting
+droves of bush-tit dropped on to slender weeds, scarcely
+bending them, so light were they. Then in a minute
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298"></span>they were gone. In the swamps or marshes were countless
+red-winged blackbirds.</p>
+
+<p>The most unobservant person could not help but see
+birds here. I had expected to find water-fowl, for the
+Colorado delta is their breeding place; but I little expected
+to find so many land birds in the trees along the
+river. Instead of having a lonesome trip, every minute
+was filled with something new, interesting, and beautiful
+and I was having the time of my life.</p>
+
+<p>I camped that night at Picachio,—meaning the
+Pocket,—eighty miles below Ahrenburg. This is still
+a mining district, but the pockets containing nuggets
+of gold which gave the place its name seem to have all
+been discovered at the time of the boom; the mining now
+done is in quartz ledges up on the sides of grim, mineral-stained
+hills. I was back in the land of rock again, a
+land showing the forces of nature in high points of foreign
+rock, shot up from beneath, penetrating the crust of the
+earth and in a few places emerging for a height of two
+hundred feet from the river itself, forming barren islands
+and great circling whirlpools, as large as that in the
+Niagara gorge, and I thought, for a while, almost as
+powerful. In one I attempted to keep to the short side
+of the river, but found it a difficult job, and one which
+took three times as long to accomplish as if I had allowed
+myself to be carried around the circle.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp59" id="i_298-fp" style="max-width: 49.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_298-fp.jpg" alt="A man sits on rocks at the river shore. Canyon walls rise on all sides.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="right smaller"><i>Copyright by Kolb Bros.</i></p>
+    <p class="allsmcap">ZOROASTER TEMPLE: FROM THE END OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Then the land became level again, and the Chocolate
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299"></span>Mountains were seen to the west. A hard wind blew
+across the stream, so that I had to drop my sunshade to
+prevent being carried against the rocks. This day I
+passed a large irrigation canal leading off from the stream,
+the second such on the entire course of the Colorado.
+Here a friendly ranchman called to me from the shore
+and warned me of the Laguna dam some distance below.
+He said the water was backed up for three miles, so I
+would know when I was approaching it.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of this warning, I nearly came to grief at
+the dam. The wind had shifted until it blew directly
+down the stream. The river, nearly a mile wide, still
+ran with a powerful current; I ceased rowing and drifted
+down, over waves much like those one would find on a
+lake driven by a heavy wind. I saw some high poles
+and a heavy electric cable stretched across the stream,
+and concluded that this was the beginning of the dam.
+I began to look ahead for some sign of a barrier across
+the stream, far below, but I could see nothing of the
+kind; then as I neared the poles it suddenly dawned on
+me that there was no raised barrier which diverted all
+the water through a sluice, but a submerged dam, over
+which the flood poured, and that the poles were on that
+dam.</p>
+
+<p>My sail-like sunshade was dropped as quickly as
+I could do it, and, grabbing the oars, I began to pull for the
+California shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300"></span></p>
+
+<p>It was fortunate for me that I happened to be comparatively
+near the shore when I began rowing. As it
+was, I landed below the diverting canal, and about a
+hundred yards above the dam. On examination the
+dam proved to be a slope about fifty feet long. A man
+in charge of the machinery controlling the gates told
+me that the dam lacked seven feet of being a mile wide,
+and that approximately seven feet of water was going
+over the entire dam.</p>
+
+<p>Great cement blocks and rocks had been dropped
+promiscuously below the dam to prevent it from being
+undermined. Even without the rocks it was doubtful
+if an uncovered boat could go through without upsetting.
+The great force of the water made a trough four or five
+feet lower than the river level, all water coming down
+the slope shooting underneath, while the river rolled
+back upstream. On two occasions boatmen had been
+carried over the dam. In each case the boat was
+wrecked, but the occupants were thrown out and escaped
+uninjured. I could not help but be amused, and feel a
+little uncomfortable too, when I saw how nearly I came
+to being wrecked here, after having escaped that fate in
+the rapids of the canyons.</p>
+
+<p>I ran my boat back to the diverting canal, then rowed
+down to the massive cement gates, which looked to me
+like a small replica of some of the locks on the Panama
+Canal. With the help of an Indian who was ready for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301"></span>a job my boat was taken out, rolled around the buildings
+on some sections of pipe, and slid over the bank into the
+canal below the gates.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of a desire to spend some time inspecting the
+machinery of this great work,—which, with the canal
+and other improvements, had cost the government over a
+million dollars—I immediately resumed my rowing.
+It was mid-afternoon, and measured by the canal, which
+was direct, it was twelve miles to Yuma. But I soon
+learned that great winding curves made it much farther
+by the river. In some cases it nearly doubled back on
+itself. The wind had shifted by this time and blew against
+me so hard that it was almost useless to attempt rowing.
+In another place there were no banks, and the water had
+spread for three miles in broken sloughs and around
+half-submerged islands, the one deep channel being
+lost in the maze of shallow ones. With these things to
+contend with it was dusk long before I neared the town,
+the twelve miles having stretched to twenty. Finally I
+saw a windmill partly submerged. Some distance away
+was a small ranch house also in the water. The house,
+with lights in the upper story, was a cheering sight; the
+windmill looked out of place in the midst of all this desolation
+of water. Soon other houses appeared with lights
+showing through the windows. Once I lost my way and
+spent a half hour in getting back to the right channel.</p>
+
+<p>Somewhere in the dark, I never knew just when, I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302"></span>passed the mouth of the Gila River. In a similar way in
+broad daylight I had passed the Bill Williams Fork
+above Ahrenburg.</p>
+
+<p>At last I neared the town. I could discern some buildings
+on top of a small hill, evidently one of the back streets
+of Yuma. After tying my boat, I hid my small load
+in some mesquite trees, then climbed the hill and passed
+between two peculiar stone houses dark as dungeons.
+They puzzled me from the outside, but when once past
+them, I was no longer in doubt. I had entered the open
+gateway leading to the courtyard of the Yuma penitentiary.
+No wonder the buildings looked like dungeons.
+This was a new experience for me, but somehow I had
+always imagined just how it would look. I was considering
+beating a retreat when a guard hailed me and asked
+me if I was not lost. With the assistance of the guard, I
+escaped from the pen and found my way to the streets of
+Yuma, just four days after leaving the Needles bridge.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">
+    CHAPTER XXVI</h3>
+<h4>ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p>“<span class="smcap">Mexico</span> is a good place to keep away from just at
+present.” This was the invariable answer to a few casual
+inquiries concerning what I would be likely to meet with
+in the way of difficulties, a possible companion for the
+voyage to the Gulf, and how one could get back when
+once there. I received little encouragement from the
+people of Yuma. The cautions came not from the timid
+who see danger in every rumour, but from the old steamboat
+captains, the miners, and prospectors who knew the
+country and had interests in mineral claims across the
+border. These claims they had lost in many cases
+because they had failed for the last two years to keep
+up their assessment work. There were vague suggestions
+of being stood up against an adobe wall with a row of
+“yaller bellies” in front, or being thrown into damp dungeons
+and held for a ransom.</p>
+
+<p>The steamboat men could give me little information
+about the river. The old channel had filled with silt,
+and the river was diverted into a roundabout course
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304"></span>little more than a creek in width, then spread over
+whole delta. The widely spread water finally collected
+into an ancient course of the Colorado, known as the
+Hardy or False Colorado. As nearly as I could learn
+no one from Yuma had been through this new channel
+beyond a certain point called Volcanic Lake. Two
+or three parties had come back with stories of having
+attempted it, but found themselves in the middle of
+a cane-brake with insufficient water to float a boat. With
+a desire to be of real assistance to me, one old captain
+called a Yuma Indian into his office and asked him his
+opinion, suggesting that he might go along.</p>
+
+<p>“Mebbe so get lost in the trees, mebbe so get shot
+by the Cocopah,” the Indian replied as he shook his head.</p>
+
+<p>The captain laughed at the last and said that the
+Yuma and Cocopah Indians were not the best of friends,
+and accused each other of all sorts of things which neither
+had committed. Some Mexicans and certain outlawed
+whites who kept close to the border for different reasons,
+and the possibilities of bogging in a cane-brake were the
+only uncertainties. In so many words he advised me
+against going.</p>
+
+<p>Still I persevered. I had planned so long on completing
+my boating trip to the Gulf, that I disliked to abandon the
+idea altogether. I felt sure, with a flood on the Colorado,
+there would be some channel that a flat-bottomed boat
+could go through, when travelling with the current;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305"></span>but the return trip and the chances of being made a
+target for some hidden native who had lived on this
+unfriendly border and had as much reason for respecting
+some citizens of the United States as our own Indians
+had in the frontier days, caused me considerable concern.
+I knew it was customary everywhere to make
+much of the imaginary dangers, as we had found in our
+other journeys; but it is not difficult to discriminate
+between sound advice and the croakings which are based
+on lack of real information. I knew this was sound
+advice, and as usual I disliked to follow it. At last I
+got some encouragement. It came from a retired Wild
+West showman,—the real thing, one who knew the West
+from its early days. He laughed at the idea of danger
+and said I was not likely to find any one, even if I was
+anxious to do so, until I got to the La <a id=“chg3”></a>Bolsa Ranch near the
+Gulf. They would be glad to see me. He thought it
+was likely to prove uninteresting unless I intended to
+hunt wild hogs, but that was useless without dogs, and
+I would have trouble getting a gun past the custom
+officers. His advice was to talk with the Mexican consul,
+as he might know some one who could bring me back by
+horseback.</p>
+
+<p>In the consul I found a young Spaniard, all affability,
+bows, and gestures; and without being conscious of it at
+first I too began making motions. He deplored my lack
+of knowledge of the Spanish language, laughed at any
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306"></span>suggestion of trouble, as all trouble was in Eastern Sonora,
+he said, separated from the coast by two hundred miles of
+desert, and stated that the non-resident owner of the La
+Bolsa cattle ranch happened to be in the building at
+that moment. In a twinkling he had me before him and
+explained the situation. This gentleman, the owner
+of a 600,000-acre grant, and the fishing concession of the
+Gulf, stated that the ranch drove a team to Yuma once
+a week, that they would bring me back; in the interval
+I must consider myself the guest of the Rancho La
+Bolsa. The consul gave me a passport, and so it was
+all arranged.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the consul’s opinion, there were many
+whispered rumours of war, of silent automobiles loaded with
+firearms that stole out of town under cover of the night
+and returned in four days, and another of a river channel
+that could be followed and was followed, the start being
+made, not from Yuma, but from another border town
+farther west. A year before there had been an outbreak
+at this place of certain restless spirits,—some whites
+included,—and they went along the northern line
+of Mexico, sacking the ranches and terrorizing the people.
+The La Bolsa ranch was among those that suffered. The
+party contained some discharged vaqueros who were
+anxious to interview the ranch foreman, but fortunately
+for him he was absent. Then they turned south to <a id="chg8"></a>Chihuahua
+and joined the army of Madero. War, to them,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307"></span>meant license to rob and kill. They were not insurrectos,
+but bandits, and this was the class that was most
+feared.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile I had not given up the idea of a possible
+companion. Before coming to Yuma I had entertained
+hopes of getting some one with a motor boat to take me
+down and back, but there were no motor boats, I found.
+The nearest approach to a power boat was an attempt
+that was being made to install the engine from a wrecked
+steam auto on a sort of flat-bottomed scow. I heard
+of this boat three or four times, and in each case the information
+was accompanied by a smile and some vague
+remarks about a “hybrid.” I hunted up the owner,—the
+proprietor of a shooting gallery,—a man who had
+once had aspirations as a heavy-weight prize fighter, but
+had met with discouragement. So he had turned his
+activities to teaching the young idea how to shoot—especially
+the “Mexican idea” and those other border
+spirits who were itching for a scrap.</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor of the shooting gallery drove a thriving
+trade. Since he had abandoned his training he had
+taken on fat, and I found him to be a genial sort of giant
+who refused to concern himself with the serious side of
+life. Even a lacing he had received in San Francisco
+at the hands of a negro stevedore struck him as being
+humorous. He did not seem to have much more confidence
+in his “power boat” than the others, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308"></span>said I might talk with the man who was putting it together,
+ending with the remark “Phillipps thinks he
+can make her run, and he has always talked of going
+to the Gulf.”</p>
+
+<p>On investigation I found Al Phillipps was anxious to
+go to the Gulf, and would go along if I would wait until
+he got his boat in shape. This would take two days.
+Phillipps, as he told me himself, was a Jayhawker who
+had left the farm in Kansas and had gone to sea for two
+years. He was a cowboy, but had worked a year or
+two about mining engines. In Yuma he was a carpenter,
+but was anxious to leave and go prospecting along the
+Gulf. Phillipps and I were sure to have an interesting
+time. He spoke Spanish and did not fear any of the
+previously mentioned so-called dangers; he had heard of
+one party being carried out to sea when the tide rushed
+out of the river, but as we would have low tide he thought
+that, with caution, we could avoid that.</p>
+
+<p>At last all was ready for the momentous trial. The
+river bank was lined with a crowd of men who seemed to
+have plenty of leisure. Some long-haired Yuma Indians,
+and red and green turbaned Papagos, gathered in a group
+off a little to one side. A number of darkies were fishing
+for bullheads, and boys of three colors besides the Mexicans
+and a lone Chinaman clambered over the trees
+and the boats along the shore.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="i_308a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_308a-fp.jpg" alt="Fog obscures most of the lower part of the canyon.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON, FROM THE RIM.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="i_308b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_308b-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands on rocks next to the river. Clouds obscure the upper canyon walls.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON, FROM THE RIVER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>It was a moment of suspense for Phillipps. His
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309"></span>reputation as an engineer and a constructor of boats
+hung in the balance. He also had some original ideas
+about a rudder which had been incorporated in this
+boat. Now was his chance to test them out, and his
+hour of triumph if they worked.</p>
+
+<p>The test was a rigid one. The boat was to be turned
+upstream against an eight-mile current with big sand-waves,
+beginning about sixty feet from the shore, running
+in the middle of the river. If the engine ran, and the
+stern paddle-wheel turned, his reputation was saved.
+If she was powerful enough to go against the current,
+it was a triumph and we would start for the Gulf at
+once.</p>
+
+<p>On board were Phillipps, a volunteer, and myself.
+Before turning the boat loose, the engine was tried.
+It was a success. The paddle-wheel churned the water
+at a great rate, sending the boat upstream as far as the
+ropes would let her go. We would try a preliminary
+run in the quiet water close to the shore, before making
+the test in the swift current. The order was given to
+cast off, and for two men, the owner and another, to hold to
+the ropes and follow on the shore. The engine was
+started, the paddle-wheel revolved, slowly at first but
+gathering speed with each revolution. We began to
+move gently, then faster, so that the men on shore had
+difficulty in keeping even with us, impeded as they were
+with bushes and sloping banks. Flushed with success,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310"></span>the order was given to turn her loose, and we gathered
+in the ropes. Now we were drifting away from the shore
+and making some headway against the swift current.
+The crowd on shore was left behind.</p>
+
+<p>But as we left the bank the river increased in speed
+and the boat gradually lost. Then she stood still, but
+began to turn slowly, broadside to the current. This
+was something we had not foreseen. With no headway
+the rudder was of no avail. There was no sweep-oar;
+we had even neglected to put an oar on the boat. With
+pieces of boards the stranger and I paddled, trying to
+hold her straight, but all the time, in spite of our efforts,
+she drifted away from the land and slowly turned. A big
+sand-wave struck her, she wheeled in her tracks and
+raced straight for a pier, down the stream.</p>
+
+<p>About this time our engineer began having trouble
+with his engine. At first we feared it would not run, now
+it seemed it would not stop.</p>
+
+<p>A great shout went up from the shore, and a bet was
+made that we would run to the Gulf in less than a day.
+A darky boy fell off a boat in the excitement, the Indians
+did a dance, men pounded each other and whooped for
+joy. Then a bolt came loose, and the engine ran away.
+Driving-rod and belts were whirled “regardless,” as the
+passenger afterwards said, about our heads.</p>
+
+<p>Then the crash came. Our efforts to escape the pier
+were of no avail. I made a puny effort to break the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311"></span>impact with a pole, but was sent sprawling on the deck.
+Al tumbled headlong on top of the engine, which he had
+stopped at last, our passenger rolled over and over,
+but we all stayed with the ship. Each grabbing a
+board, we began to paddle and steered the craft to the
+shore.</p>
+
+<p>With the excitement over, the crowd faded away.
+Only two or three willing hands remained to help us line
+the craft back to the landing. The owner, who had
+to run around the end of the bridge, came down puffing
+and blowing, badly winded, at the end of the first round.
+Without a word from any one we brought the boat back
+to the landing.</p>
+
+<p>Al was the first to speak.</p>
+
+<p>“Well, what are you going to do?” he asked.</p>
+
+<p>“Me? I’m going to take my boat and start for the
+Gulf in ten minutes. I’ll take nothing that I cannot
+carry. If I have to leave the river I will travel light
+across the desert to Calexico. I think that I can
+get through. If you want to go along, I’ll stick
+with you until we get back. What do you think
+about it?”</p>
+
+<p>It was a long speech and a little bitter perhaps. I
+felt that way. The disappointment on top of the three
+days’ delay when time was precious could not be forgotten
+in a moment. And when my speech was said I was all
+through.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_312"></span></p>
+
+<p>Al said he would be ready in half an hour. Our beds
+were left behind. Al had a four-yard square of canvas
+for a sail. This would be sufficient covering at night
+in the hot desert. We had two canteens. The provisions,
+scarcely touched before arriving here, were sufficient
+for five days. I was so anxious to get started that
+I did not take the time to replenish them in Yuma, intending
+to do so at the custom-house on the Arizona side
+twelve miles below, where some one had told me there was
+a store. I counted on camping there. After a hurriedly
+eaten luncheon we were ready to start, the boat was
+shoved off, and we were embarked for Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>Half an hour later we passed the abandoned Imperial
+Canal, the man-made channel which had nearly destroyed
+the vast agricultural lands which it had in turn created.
+Just such a flood as that on which we were travelling had
+torn out the insufficiently supported head-gates. The
+entire stream, instead of pushing slowly across the delta,
+weltering in its own silt to the Gulf, poured into the bottom
+of the basin nearly four hundred feet below the top
+of this silt-made dam. In a single night it cut an eighty-foot
+channel in the unyielding soil, and what had once
+been the northern end of the California Gulf was turned
+into an inland sea, filled with the turbid waters of the
+Colorado, instead of the sparkling waters of the ocean.
+Nothing but an almost superhuman fight finally rescued
+the land from the grip of the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313"></span></p>
+
+<p>A short distance below, just across the Mexican line,
+on the California side, was the new canal, dug in a firmer
+soil and with strongly built gates anchored in rock back
+from the river.</p>
+
+<p>Half a mile away from the stream, on a spur railway,
+was the Mexican custom-house. I had imagined that
+it would be beside the river, and that guards would be
+seen patrolling the shore. But aside from an Indian
+fishing, there was no one to be seen. We walked out
+to the custom-house, gave a list of the few things which
+we had, assured them that we carried no guns, paid our
+duty, and departed. We had imagined that our boat
+would be inspected, but no one came near.</p>
+
+<p>The border line makes a jog here at the river and
+the Arizona-Mexico line was still a few miles down the
+stream. We had passed the mouth of the old silt-dammed
+Colorado channel, which flowed a little west of south;
+and we turned instead to the west into the spreading
+delta or moraine. About this time I remarked that I
+had seen no store at the custom-house and that I must
+not neglect to get provisions at the next one or we would
+be rather short.</p>
+
+<p>“We passed our last custom-house back there.”
+Al replied, “That’s likely the last place we will see until
+we get to the ranch by the Gulf.”</p>
+
+<p>No custom-house! No store! This was a surprise.
+What was a border for if not to have custom-houses and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314"></span>inspectors? With all the talk of smuggling I had not
+thought of anything else. And I could tell by Al’s tone
+that his estimation of my foresight had dropped several
+degrees. This was only natural, for his disappointment
+and the jibes still rankled.</p>
+
+<p>At last we were wholly in Mexican territory. With
+the States behind, all of our swiftly running water had
+departed, and we now travelled on a stream that was
+nearly stagnant. All the cottonwood logs which had
+finally been carried down the stream after having been
+deposited on a hundred shores, found here their final resting
+place. About each cluster of logs an island was
+forming, covered with a rank grass and tules.</p>
+
+<p>Ramified channels wound here and there. Two or
+three times we found ourselves in a shallow channel,
+and with some difficulty retraced our way. All channels
+looked alike, but only one was deep.</p>
+
+<p>Then the willow trees which were far distant on either
+shore began to close in and we travelled in a channel not
+more than a hundred feet wide, growing smaller with
+every mile. This new channel is sometimes termed the
+Bee River. It parallels the northern Mexico line; it
+also parallels a twenty-five mile levee which the United
+States government has constructed along the northern
+edge of this fifty-mile wide dam shoved across the California
+Gulf by the stream, building higher every year.
+Except for the river channel the dam may be said to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315"></span>reach unbroken from the Arizona-Sonora Mesa to the
+Cocopah Mountains. The levee runs from a point of
+rocks near the river to Lone Mountain, a solitary peak
+some distance east of the main range. This levee, built
+since the trouble with the canal, is all that prevents the
+water from breaking into the basin in a dozen places.</p>
+
+<p>We saw signs of two or three camp-fires close to the
+stream, and with the memory of the stories haunting us a
+little we built only a small fire when we cooked our evening
+meal, then extinguished it, and camped on a dry
+point of land a mile or two below. I think we were both
+a little nervous that night; I confess that I was, and if an
+unwashed black-bearded individual had poked his head
+out from the willows and said, “Woof!” or whatever
+it is that they say when they want to start up a jack-rabbit,
+we would both have stampeded clear across the
+border. In fact I felt a little as I did when I played
+truant from school and wondered what would happen
+when I was found out.</p>
+
+<p>Daybreak found us ready to resume our journey,
+and with a rising sun any nervousness vanished. What
+could any one want with two men who had nothing but
+a flat-bottomed boat?</p>
+
+<p>All the morning we travelled west, the trees ever
+drawing closer as our water departed on the south, running
+through the willows, arrow-weed, and cat-tails.
+Then the channel opened into Volcanic Lake, a circular
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316"></span>body of water, which is not a lake but simply a gathering
+together of the streams we had been losing, and here the
+water stands, depositing its mud. All the way across
+had no depth but a bottomless mud, so soft it would
+engulf a person if he tried to wade across.</p>
+
+<p>On the west there was no growth. The shore was
+nothing but an ash-like powder, not a sand, but a rich
+soil blown here and there, building in dunes against
+every obstruction, ever moving before the wind. Here
+were boiling, sputtering mud pots and steam vents building
+up and exhausting through mud pipe-stems, rising a
+foot or two above the springs. Here was a shelter or
+two of sun-warped boards constructed by those who
+come here crippled with rheumatism and are supposed
+to depart, cured. Here we saw signs of a wagon track
+driven toward Calexico, the border town directly north
+of the lake. The heat was scorching, the sun, reflected
+from the sand and water, was blistering, and we could
+well imagine what a walk across that ash-like soil would
+mean. Mirages in the distance beckoned, trees and
+lakes were seen over toward the mountains where we
+had seen nothing but desert before; heat waves rose and
+fell. Our mouths began to puff from the reflected sun,
+our faces burned and peeled, black and red in spots. There
+was no indication of the slightest breeze until about three
+o’clock, when the wind moved gently across the lake.</p>
+
+<p>We had skirted the northern part of the circle, passing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317"></span>a few small streams and then found one of the three
+large channels which empty the lake. As it happened
+we took the one on the outside, and the longest. The
+growth grew thicker than ever, the stream choked down
+to fifty feet. Now it began to loop backward and forward
+and back again, as though trying to make the longest
+and crookedest channel possible in the smallest space.
+The water in the channel was stagnant, swift streamlets
+rushed in from the tules on the north, and rushed out
+again on the south. It was not always a simple matter
+to ascertain which was the main channel. Others just
+as large were diverted from the stream. Twice we
+attempted to cut across, but the water became shallow,
+the tules stalled our boats, and we were glad to return,
+sounding with a pole when in doubt.</p>
+
+<p>Then we began to realize that we were not entirely
+alone in this wilderness of water. We saw evidence of
+another’s passage, in broken cat-tails and blazed trees.
+In many places he had pushed into the thickets. We
+concluded it must be a trapper. At last, to our surprise,
+we saw a telephone equipment, sheltered in a box nailed
+on a water-surrounded tree. The line ran directly
+across the stream. Here also we could see where a boat
+had forced a way through, and the water plants had been
+cut with a sharp instrument. What could it be? We
+were certain no line ran to the only ranch at the Gulf.
+We had information of another ranch directly on the border
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318"></span>line, but did not think it came below the levee, and
+as far as we had learned, there were no homes but the
+wickiups of the Cocopah in the jungles. It was like one
+of those thrilling stories of Old Sleuth and Dead Shot
+Dick which we read, concealed in our schoolbooks, when
+we were supposed to be studying the physical geography
+of Mexico. But the telephone was no fiction, and had
+recently been repaired, but for what purpose it was there
+we could not imagine. After leaving the lake there was
+no dry land. At night our boat, filled with green tules
+for a bed, was tied to a willow tree, with its roots submerged
+in ten feet of water. Never were there such swarms
+of mosquitos. In the morning our faces were corrugated
+with lumps, not a single exposed spot remaining unbitten.</p>
+
+<p>The loops continued with the next day’s travel, but
+we were gradually working to the southwest, then they
+began to straighten out somewhat, as the diverted streams
+returned. We thought early in the morning that we
+would pass about ten miles to the east of the coast range,
+but it was not to be. Directly to the base of the dark,
+heat-vibrating rocks we pulled, and landed on the first
+shore that we had seen for twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp77" id="i_318a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_318a-fp.jpg" alt="A child wearing a sombrero and carrying a lasso smiles at the photographer.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">A VAQUERO IN THE MAKING.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp76" id="i_318b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_318b-fp.jpg" alt="Canyon wall opposite the river is pock-marked with bird nests.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">CLIFF SWALLOWS’ NESTS. FOUND FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Here was a recently used trail, and tracks where
+horses came down to the water. Here too was the
+track of a barefooted Cocopah, a tribe noted for its men
+of gigantic build, and with great feet out of all proportion
+to their size. If that footprint was to be fossilized,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319"></span>future generations would marvel at the evidence of some
+gigantic prehistoric animal, an alligator with a human-shaped
+foot. These Indians have lived in these mud
+bottoms so long, crossing the streams on rafts made of
+bundles of tules, and only going to the higher land when
+their homes are inundated by the floods, that they have
+become a near approach to a web-footed human being.</p>
+
+<p>Our stream merely touched the mountain, then turned
+directly to the southeast in a gradually increasing stream.
+Now we began to see the breeding places of the water-birds
+of which we had heard. There was a confusion
+of bird calls, sand-hill cranes were everywhere; in some
+cases with five stick-built nests in a single water-killed
+tree. A blue heron flopped around as though it had
+broken a wing, to decoy us from its nest. The snowy
+white pelican waddled along the banks and mingled with
+the cormorants. There were great numbers of gulls,
+and occasional snipe. We were too late to see the ducks
+which come here, literally by the million, during the winter
+months. There were hawks’ nests in the same groups
+of trees as the cranes, with the young hawks stretching
+their necks for the food which was to be had in such abundance.
+And on another tree sat the parent hawks, complacently
+looking over the nests of the other birds, like
+a coyote waiting for a horse to die. At Cocopah Mountain
+a golden eagle soared, coming down close to the
+ground as we rested under the mesquite. Then as we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320"></span>travelled clear streams of water began to pour in from
+the north and east, those same streams we had lost above,
+but cleared entirely of their silt. Now the willows grew
+scarce, and instead of mud banks a dry, firm earth was
+built up from the river’s edge, and the stream increased
+in size. Soon it was six or seven hundred feet wide and
+running with a fair current. This was the Hardy River.
+We noticed signs of falling water on the banks as though
+the stream had dropped an inch or two. In a half-hour
+the mark indicated a fall of eight inches or more; then we
+realized we were going out with the tide. A taste of
+water proved it. The river water was well mixed with a
+weak saline solution. We filled our canteens at once.</p>
+
+<p>We saw a small building and a flagpole on the south
+shore, but on nearing the place found it was deserted.
+A few miles below were two other channels equally as
+large as that on which we travelled, evidently fed by
+streams similar to our own. There were numerous scattered
+trees, some of them cottonwood, and we saw some
+grazing cattle. We began to look for the ranch house,
+which some one had said was at the point where the Colorado
+and the Hardy joined, and which others told us was
+at the Gulf.</p>
+
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321"></span></p>
+<h3 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">
+    CHAPTER XXVII</h3>
+<h4>THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA
+  </h4>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">That</span> the head of the Gulf of California has a big
+tide is well known. Choked in a narrowing cone, the
+waters rise higher and higher as they come to the apex,
+reaching twenty-five feet or over in a high tide. This
+causes a tidal bore to roll up the Colorado, and from all
+reports it was something to be avoided. The earliest
+Spanish explorers told some wonderful tales of being
+caught in this bore and of nearly losing their little sailing
+vessels.</p>
+
+<p>This was my first experience with river tides. It
+was somewhat of a disappointment to me that I could
+not arrange to be here at a high tide, for we had come at
+the first quarter of the moon. Out on the open sea one
+can usually make some headway by rowing against the
+ebb or flow of the tide: here on the Colorado, where
+it flowed upstream at a rate of from five to eight miles
+an hour, it was different. When we reached the head of
+the tide, it was going out. Unfortunately for us the day
+was gone when the current began to run strong. It
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322"></span>hardly seemed advisable to travel with it after dark. We
+might pass the ranch, or be carried against a rock-bound
+coast, or find difficulty in landing and be overwhelmed
+by the tidal bore. So when darkness fell we camped
+pulling our boat out in a little slough to prevent it from
+being carried away. Evidently we were too near the
+headwaters for a tidal bore, for at eleven <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the waters
+turned and came back as quietly as they ran out.</p>
+
+<p>We launched our boat before the break of day, and
+for four hours we travelled on a good current. The channel
+now had widened to a half-mile, with straight earthy
+banks, about fifteen feet high. Still there was no sign
+of a ranch, and it began to look to us as if there was little
+likelihood of finding any.</p>
+
+<p>The land was nearly level and except for a few raised
+hummocks on which grew some scattered trees, it was
+quite bare. This was not only because it did not get
+the life-giving water from the north, but because at times
+it was submerged under the saline waters from the south.
+Near the shores of the river, and extending back for
+fifty feet, was a matted, rank growth of grass; beyond
+that the earth was bare, baked and cracked by the
+burning sun. This grass, we found, was a favorite resort
+of rattlesnakes. We killed two of them, a large one and
+a vicious little flat-headed sidewinder.</p>
+
+<p>All this land was the south rim of the silt dam, which
+extended from the line of cliffs or mesa on the east to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323"></span>the mountains on the west. The other rim, a hundred
+feet higher, lay at least fifty miles to the north. Here
+was the resting-place of a small portion of the sediment
+carved away by the Colorado’s floods. How deep it is
+piled and how far it extends out under the waters of the
+Gulf would be hard to say.</p>
+
+<p>We felt sure that we would get to the Gulf with this
+tide, but when the time came for it to turn we were still
+many miles away. There was nothing to do but to camp
+out on this sun-baked plain. We stopped a little after
+9.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Now that we were nearing the Gulf we were
+sure there would be a tidal bore. As we breakfasted a
+slight rushing sound was heard, and what appeared to be
+a ripple of broken water or small breaker came up the
+stream and passed on. This was a disappointment.
+With high water on the river and with a low tide this was
+all the tidal bore we would see.</p>
+
+<p>In four hours the water rose fourteen feet, then for
+two hours the rise was slower. Within three feet of the
+level it came. The opposite side, rounded at the edges,
+looked like a thread on top of the water, tapered to a
+single silken strand and looking toward the Gulf, merged
+into the water. To all appearances it was a placid lake
+spread from mountain to mesa.</p>
+
+<p>Our smaller canteen was still filled with the fresh
+water secured the evening before. The other had been
+emptied and was filled again before the return of the tide,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324"></span>but considerable taste of the salt remained. What we
+did now must be done with caution. So far we had not
+seen the ranch. We were in doubt whether it was somewhere
+out on the coast or back on one of the sloughs
+passed the evening before. We had heard of large
+sail-boats being hauled from Yuma and launched by the
+ranch. This would seem to indicate that it was somewhere
+on the Gulf. We had provisions sufficient for
+one day, one canteen of fresh water, and another so mixed
+with the salt water that we would not use it except as a
+last resort.</p>
+
+<p>A little after 3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the tide changed; we launched
+our boat and went out with the flood. As we neared
+the mouth of the stream we found that the inrush and
+outrush of water had torn the banks. Here the river
+spread in a circular pool several miles across. It seemed
+almost as if the waters ran clear to the line of yellow cliffs
+and to the hazy mountain range. Then the shores closed
+in again just before the current divided quite evenly on
+either side of a section of the barren plain named Montague
+Island. We took the channel to the east.</p>
+
+<p>Our last hope of finding the ranch was in a dried-out
+river channel, overgrown with trees. But although we
+looked carefully as we passed, there was no sign of a
+trail or of human life. Some egrets preened their silken
+feathers on the bank; sand-hill cranes and two coyotes,
+fat as hogs and dragging tails weighted with mud,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325"></span>feasted on the lively hermit-crabs, which they extracted
+from their holes—and that was all.</p>
+
+<p>The sun, just above the lilac-tinted mountains, hung
+like a great suspended ball of fire. The cloudless sky
+glared like a furnace. Deep purple shadows crept into
+the canyons slashing the mountain range. The yellow
+dust-waves and the mirages disappeared with the going
+down of the sun. Still we were carried on and on. We
+would go down with the tide. Now the end of the island
+lay opposite the line of cliffs; soon we would be in the
+Gulf.</p>
+
+<p>So ended the Colorado. Two thousand miles above,
+it was a beautiful river, born of a hundred snow-capped
+peaks and a thousand crystal streams; gathering strength,
+it became the masterful river which had carved the hearts
+of mountains and slashed the rocky plateaus, draining
+a kingdom and giving but little in return. Now it was
+going under, but it was fighting to the end. Waves of
+yellow struggled up through waves of green and were
+beaten down again. The dorsal fins of a half-dozen sharks
+cut circles near our craft. With the last afterglow we
+were past the end of the island and were nearing the
+brooding cliffs. Still the current ran strong. The last
+vestige of day was swallowed in the gloom, just as the
+Colorado was buried ’neath the blue. A hard wind was
+blowing, toward the shore; the sea was choppy. A point
+of rocks where the cliffs met the sea was our goal. Would
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326"></span>we never reach it? Even in the night, which was now
+upon us, the distance was deceptive. At last we neared
+the pile of rocks. The sound of waters pounding on the
+shore was heard, and we hurriedly landed, a half-mile
+above it, just as the tide turned.</p>
+
+<p>The beach was a half-mile wide, covered with mud
+and sloughs. There was no high shore. But an examination
+showed that the tide ran back to the cliffs. One of
+us had to stay with the boat. Telling Phillipps to get
+what sleep he could, I sat in the boat, and allowed the
+small breakers which fox-chased each other to beat it
+in as the tide rose.</p>
+
+<p>An arctic explorer has said that having an adventure
+means that something unexpected or unforeseen has
+happened; that some one has been incompetent. I had
+the satisfaction of knowing that the fault of this adventure,
+if such it could be called, was mine. Here we were,
+at our goal in Mexico, supposed to be a hostile land, with
+scant provisions for one day. It was a hundred miles
+along the line of cliffs, back to Yuma. So far, we had
+failed to find the ranch. It was not likely that it was
+around the point of rocks. We knew now that the Colorado
+channel was fifteen miles from the mouth of the
+river, and was not a slough as we had supposed. Doubtless
+the ranch was up there. Our best plan was to return
+to the head of the tide, going up the Colorado, then if
+we did not find the ranch we would abandon the boat,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327"></span>snare some birds, keep out of the scorching heat, and
+travel in the morning and evening. Two active men
+should be able to do that without difficulty.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_326a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_326a-fp.jpg" alt="A man stands among the mud pots at the side of the lake.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">STEAM VENTS AND MUD POTS BESIDE VOLCANIC LAKE, MEXICO.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_326b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_326b-fp.jpg" alt="View of a low mountain across a wide, calm lake.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">COCOPAH MOUNTAIN, MEXICO.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>So the hours passed, with the breakers driving the
+boat toward the line of cliffs. When it had reached its
+highest point, I pulled into a slough and tied up, then
+woke Al as we had agreed. While I slept, he climbed
+the cliffs to have a last look. An hour after daybreak
+he returned. Nothing but rock and desert could be
+seen. We dragged the boat down in the slime of the
+slough until we caught the falling <a id=“chg2”></a>tide. Then Al rigged
+up his sail. With the rising sun a light breeze blew in
+from the Gulf. Here was our opportunity. Slowly we
+went up against the falling tide. Then as the breeze failed,
+the tide returned. Fifty feet away a six foot black sea
+bass floated; his rounded back lifted above the water.
+With the approach of the boat he was gone. The sharks
+were seen again.</p>
+
+<p>Two hours later we had entered the mouth of the river
+carried by the rising tide. Several miles were left behind.
+Another breeze came up as the tide failed, and the sail
+was rigged up again. Things were coming our way at last.
+Al knew how to handle a boat. Running her in close to
+the top of the straight falling banks I could leap to the
+land, take a picture, then run and overtake the boat, and
+leap on again.</p>
+
+<p>Then the wind shifted, the tide turned, and we tied
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328"></span>up, directly opposite the point where we had camped the
+afternoon before. It was the hottest day we had seen
+Whirlwinds, gathering the dust in slender funnels, scurried
+across the plains. Mirages of trees bordering shimmering
+lakes and spreading water such as we had come
+through below Yuma were to be seen, even out towards
+the sea. Then over toward the cliffs where the old
+Colorado once ran we saw a column of distant smoke.
+Perhaps it was a hunter; it could hardly be the ranch.
+As we could do nothing with the boat, we concluded to
+walk over that way. It was many miles distant. Taking
+everything we had, including our last lunch, we started
+our walk, leaving a cloth on a pole to mark the point
+where our boat was anchored. But after going four
+miles it still seemed no nearer than before, so we returned.
+It was evening. The water was drinkable again; that
+was something to be thankful for. By ten o’clock that
+night the tide would come up again. After dark we found
+that our boat was being beached. So we ran it down and
+began pulling it along over a shoal reaching far out from
+the shore. As we tugged I was sure I heard a call somewhere
+up the river. What kind of a land was this!
+Could it be that my senses were all deceiving me as my
+eyes were fooled by the mirage? I had heard it, Al had
+not, and laughed when I said that I had. We listened
+and heard it again, plainly this time, “Can’t you men find
+a landing? We have a good one up here,” it said.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_329"></span></p>
+
+<p>We asked them to row down, advising them to keep
+clear of the shoal. We waded out, guided by their voices,
+in the pitch darkness and neared the boat.</p>
+
+<p>One shadowy form sat in either end of a flat-bottomed
+boat. There was a mast, and the boat was fitted for
+two oarsmen as well. Evidently the load was heavy, for
+it was well down in the water. The sail cloth was spread
+over all the boat, excepting one end where there was a
+small sheet-iron stove, with a pan of glowing wood coal
+underneath. The aroma of coffee came from a pot on
+the stove. As I steadied myself at the bow I touched a
+crumpled flag,—Mexican, I thought,—but I could not
+see. Both figures sat facing us, with rifles in their hands,
+alert and ready for a surprise. Smugglers! I thought;
+guns, I imagined. They could not see our faces in
+the dark, neither could we distinguish theirs. Judging
+by their voices they were young men. I thought from
+the first that they were Mexicans, but they talked without
+accent. They could see that we carried no arms, but
+their vigilance was not relaxed. They asked what our
+trouble was and we told them of the beached boat, what
+we had been doing, and why we were there. They said
+they were out for a little sight-seeing trip down in the
+Gulf. They might go to Tiburone Island. One of them
+wondered if it was true that the natives were cannibals.
+He said he would not care about being shot, but he would
+hate to be put in their stew-pot. We asked them how
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330"></span>much water they carried. A fifteen-gallon keg was all
+They hoped to get more along the coast. It is quite
+well known there is none. They professed to be uninformed
+about the country, did not know there was a
+ranch or a tidal bore, and thanked us for our information
+about the tides, and the advice to fill their keg when the
+water was lowest, which would be in half an hour. They
+could not sell any provisions, but gave us a quart of flour.</p>
+
+<p>As we talked an undermined bank toppled over,
+sounding like shots from a gun. One cocked his rifle on
+the impulse, then laughed when he realized what it was.
+Just before we parted one of them remarked, “You came
+through the Bee River four days ago, near a telephone,
+didn’t you?” “Yes, but we didn’t see any one,” I
+replied.</p>
+
+<p>“No? But we saw you!” And we felt the smiles
+we could not see.</p>
+
+<p>They said the large ranch had some Chinamen clearing
+the highest ground, and building levees around it to
+keep the water out. The telephone and a motor boat
+connected the different ranches. Their advice to us was
+to keep to the river, not to look for the ranch, but to
+get on the telephone and raise a racket until some one
+showed up.</p>
+
+<p>Then we parted to go to our respective landings, with
+mutual wishes for a successful journey. The boat was
+pulled down. The tide was on the point of turning, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331"></span>it would be an hour before there would be any strength
+to it. I went to shore and built a fire of some driftwood,
+for the long stand in the water had chilled me. Al
+stayed with the boat. Earlier in the day, I cautiously
+shook the sticks loose from the matted grass, fearing the
+rattlers which were everywhere. In this case nothing
+buzzed. But I had no sooner got my fire well started
+when a rattler began to sing, roused by the light and the
+heat, about twenty feet away. My fire was built beside
+one of the many sloughs which cut back through the
+grass and ended in the barren soil. These sloughs were
+filled with water when the tide was in and made ideal
+landing places, especially if one had to avoid a big tidal
+bore. Getting on the opposite side of the fire, I tossed
+a stick occasionally to keep him roused. Soon another
+joined, and between them they made the air hum. By
+this time I was thoroughly warmed and felt that the boat
+would be the best place for me. Carefully extinguishing
+my fire, I went down to the river just as the tide returned.
+Without any sign or call from the shore we were carried
+up with the tide. We were both weary but I dared not
+sleep, so I merely kept the boat away from the shores
+and drifted, while Phillipps slept. I had picked out a
+guiding star which I little needed while the current was
+running strong, but which would give us our course when
+the tide changed, for we could be carried out just as
+easily.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_332"></span></p>
+
+<p>But an hour after we left our camp another light
+appeared, growing larger and larger. It was one of
+two things. Either my fire was not extinguished, or a
+match thrown down by one of the others had fired the
+deep dry grass. I consoled myself that it could not
+spread, for the sloughs and the barren soil would cut it
+off. I had a grim satisfaction when I thought of the
+snakes and how they would run for the desert land. This
+was a real guiding star, growing larger and larger as we
+were carried up the stream. I slept on shore when the
+tide would take us no farther. Phillipps got breakfast.
+We were now about three miles from the slough. After
+breakfast we alternately towed the boat, for there was
+no wind to carry us up this morning, and two hours later
+arrived at the diverging streams. Near by we saw some
+mules showing evidence of having been worked. It was
+clear now that the ranch was near. There was still a
+chance that we would take the wrong stream. Over on
+the opposite side was a tall cottonwood tree. This I
+climbed, and had the satisfaction of seeing some kind of a
+shed half a mile up the east stream. The land between
+proved to be a large island. As we neared the building
+two swarthy men emerged and came down to the shore.
+<a id="chg9"></a>“Buenos días,” Al called as we pulled in to the landing.</p>
+
+<p>“Buenos días, Señor,” they answered with a smile.</p>
+
+<p>They were employees of the Rancho La <a id=“chg4”></a>Bolsa, which
+was a half-mile up the stream.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_332a-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_332a-fp.jpg" alt="Man rowing a boat with a triangular sail on a wide expanse of water.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">TEN MILES FROM THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. COMING UP ON A TWENTY-FOOT TIDE.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i_332b-fp" style="max-width: 62.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i_332b-fp.jpg" alt="Sunset, with reflection of sun across a wide river; a dark shoreline is in the distance.">
+  <figcaption>
+    <p class="allsmcap">SUNSET ON THE LOWER COLORADO RIVER.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_333"></span></p>
+
+<p>Did we make the big fire which had burned until
+morning?</p>
+
+<p>Our answer seemed to relieve their minds.</p>
+
+<p>What would we do with our boat? It was theirs to
+do with as they pleased. Leading two horses from out
+of the building, they mounted and told us to climb on
+behind, and away we rode across some water-filled sloughs.
+Hidden in the trees we came to the buildings—three or
+four flat-topped adobe houses. Some little brown children
+scattered to announce our coming.</p>
+
+<p>As we dismounted two white men approached.
+“Why, hello, Phillipps!” the ranch boss said when he
+saw my companion. “This is a long walk from Yuma.
+You fellows are just in time to grub!”</p>
+
+<p class="p4 center">
+THE END
+</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> The various expeditions which are credited with continuous or complete journeys
+through all the canyons and the dates of leaving Green River, Wyoming, are as follows:</p>
+
+<ul>
+  <li>Major Powell, 1st journey. May 24, 1869.</li>
+
+  <li>Major Powell, 2nd journey. May 22, 1871. Discontinued at Kanab Canyon in the Grand Canyon.</li>
+
+  <li>Galloway. Sept. 20, 1895 and 1896.</li>
+
+  <li>Flavell. Aug. 27, 1896.</li>
+
+  <li>Stone. Sept. 12, 1909.</li>
+
+  <li>Kolb. Sept. 8, 1911.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p class="footnote">For a more complete record of the earlier parties see <a href="#Appendix">appendix</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_2_2" href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="label">[2]</a> The initials E. C. apply to my brother, Emery C. Kolb; E. L. to myself. These
+initials are frequently used in this text. For several years the nick-name “Ed” has
+been applied to me, and in my brothers’ narratives I usually figure as Ed.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_3_3" href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="label">[3]</a> It is not unusual for certain individual animals to be outlawed or to have a price
+set on their heads by the stockmen’s associations, in addition to the regular bounty
+paid by the counties. At the time this is written there is a standing reward of $200
+for a certain “lobo,” or timber wolf which roams over the Kaibab Forest directly
+opposite our home in the Grand Canyon. In addition to this there is a bounty of $10
+offered by the county. This wolf has taken to killing colts and occasional full-grown
+horses, in addition to his regular diet of yearling calves.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_4_4" href="#FNanchor_4_4" class="label">[4]</a> Brown-Stanton. May 25, 1889.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Russell-Monnette. Sept. 20, 1907.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For a more complete record of these expeditions, as well as others who attempted
+the passage of the canyons below this point, see <a href="#Appendix">appendix</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_5_5" href="#FNanchor_5_5" class="label">[5]</a> Left by the Stone expedition.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_6_6" href="#FNanchor_6_6" class="label">[6]</a> While Major Powell was making his second voyage of exploration, another
+party was toiling up these canyons towing their boats from the precipitous shores. This party was under the leadership of Lieutenant Wheeler of the U.S. Army. The party
+was large, composed of twenty men, including a number of Mojave Indians, in the
+river expedition, while others were sent overland with supplies to the mouth of Diamond
+Creek. By almost superhuman effort they succeeded in getting their boats up the
+canyon as far as Diamond Creek. While there is no doubt that they reached this
+point, there were times when we could hardly believe it was possible when we saw
+the walls they would have to climb in this granite gorge. In some places there
+seemed to be no place less than five hundred feet above the river where they could
+secure a foothold. Their method was to carry a rope over these places, then pull the
+boats up through the rapids by main force. It would be just as easy to pull a heavy
+rowboat up the gorge of Niagara, as through some of these rapids. Their best plan,
+by far, would have been to haul their boats in at Diamond Creek and make the descent,
+as they did after reaching this point. The only advantage their method gave them was
+a knowledge of what they would meet with on the downstream run. Lieutenant Wheeler
+professed to disbelieve that Major Powell had descended below Diamond Creek, and
+called his voyage the completion of the exploration of the Colorado River. In a four
+days’ run they succeeded in covering the same distance that had taken four weeks of
+endless toil, to bring their boats up to this point.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_7_7" href="#FNanchor_7_7" class="label">[7]</a> See appendix, <a href="#Cataract">History of Cataract Canyon</a>.</p>
+</div>
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_335"></a></span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="Appendix">
+APPENDIX
+</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> parties who have made extended voyages through
+one or more of the canyons of the Green and Colorado
+rivers, and the order of their leaving, according to
+Dellenbaugh, are as follows:</p>
+
+<p>Major J. W. Powell left Green River, Wyoming,
+May 24, 1869; arrived at the Virgin River with five of
+his party, six in all, <abbr title="August">Aug.</abbr> 30, 1869—was met there by
+some Mormons who had been ordered to be on the lookout
+by Brigham Young. The party were distributed as
+follows:</p>
+
+<ul>
+ <li class="normal">The boats:</li>
+ <li class="normal">1. <i class="shipname">Emma Dean.</i> J. W. Powell, John C. Sumner, Wm. H. Dunn.</li>
+ <li class="normal">2. <i class="shipname">Kitty Clyde’s Sister.</i> Walter Powell, G. Y. Bradley.</li>
+ <li class="normal">3. <i class="shipname">No Name.</i> O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, Frank Goodman.</li>
+ <li class="normal">4. <i class="shipname">Maid of the Canyon.</i> Wm. R. Hawkins, Andrew Hall.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>Notes. F. Goodman left the party at the Mouth of
+the Uinta. The <i class="shipname">No Name</i> was wrecked in Lodore
+Canyon. O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, and Wm.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336"></span>H. Dunn left the party when about twenty-five miles
+from the mouth of the Grand Canyon, and were killed
+by the Shewits Utes near Mt. Dellenbaugh. Sumner
+and Hall went on down to the Gulf of California.</p>
+
+<p class="p2">The second Powell expedition left Green River,
+Wyoming, May 22, 1871, taking advantage of the high
+water, which is desirable on the Green River. They
+arrived at the Mouth of the Paria, <abbr title="October">Oct.</abbr> 22, 1871. Starting
+again from the Paria (Lee’s Ferry) Aug. 17, 1872,
+they passed through Marble Canyon and nearly 100 miles
+of the Grand Canyon, reaching the mouth of Kanab Canyon
+Saturday, <abbr title="September">Sept.</abbr> 7, 1872. Here the voyage was discontinued
+on account of high water, rising higher each day.
+The crews of this party were distributed as follows:</p>
+
+<ul>
+ <li class="normal">1871.</li>
+ <li class="normal">1. <i class="shipname">Emma Dean.</i> J. W. Powell, S. V. Jones, F. S. Dellenbaugh, J. K. Hilliers.</li>
+ <li class="normal">2. <i class="shipname">Nellie Powell.</i> A. H. Thompson, John F. Steward, F. M. Bishop, F. C. A. Richardson.</li>
+ <li class="normal">3. <i class="shipname">Canonita.</i> E. O. Beaman, W. Clement Powell, Andrew C. Hatton.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>Notes. Richardson left in Brown’s Park; Beaman,
+Steward, and Bishop at the end of the first season. The
+boats had been badly pounded, the <i>Nellie Powell</i> very
+much so, and she was left at Lee’s Ferry. The party
+proceeded as follows:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_337"></span></p>
+
+<ul>
+ <li class="normal">1872.</li>
+ <li class="normal">1. <i class="shipname">Emma Dean.</i> J. W. Powell, S. V. Jones, F. S. Dellenbaugh, J. K. Hilliers.</li>
+ <li class="normal">2. <i class="shipname">Canonita.</i> A. H. Thompson, W. Clement Powell, A. C. Hatton.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>H. M. Hook with fifteen miners in crude boats left
+Green River, Wyoming, June 1, 1869. H. M. Hook and
+one other were drowned in Red Canyon, and the expedition
+was abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>Earlier parties to attempt descent: 1825—Wm.
+H. Ashley and party to Brown’s Park. 1849—Wm. L.
+Manly and party to Uintah Valley. The name <a id="chg12"></a>D.
+Julien, <span lang="fr">Mai</span> 1836, occurs carved in the walls in Labyrinth
+Canyon, and again in Cataract Canyon. No further
+record at present.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Brown-Stanton</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>This expedition left Blake (Green River, Utah) May
+25, 1889, 16 men with 6 boats (very light). The entire
+party was Frank M. Brown, chief, Robert Brewster
+Stanton, chief engineer, John Hislop, C. W. Potter,
+T. P. Rigney, E. A. Reynolds, J. H. Hughes, W. H. Bush,
+Edward Coe, Edward ——, Peter Hansborough,
+Henry Richards, G. W. Gibson, Charles Porter, F. A.
+Nims, T. C. Terry.</p>
+
+<p>Notes. Brown, Hansborough, and Richards were
+drowned in Marble Canyon. The expedition was temporarily
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338"></span>abandoned in lower Marble Canyon. Hughes,
+Terry, and Rigney left at Glen Canyon, Reynolds left at
+Lee’s Ferry, and Harry McDonald joined the party.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Stanton</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Stanton re-outfitted with heavy boats, 22 feet long,
+and began the second trip in Glen Canyon. This party
+included R. B. Stanton, Langdon Gibson, Harry McDonald,
+Elmer Kane, John Hislop, F. A. Nims, Reginald
+Travers, W. H. Edwards, A. B. Twining, H. G. Ballard,
+L. G. Brown, and James Hogue. They entered the head
+of Marble Canyon <abbr title="December">Dec.</abbr> 28, 1889, and finished at tide
+water in the Gulf of California, <abbr title="April">Apr.</abbr> 26, 1890. One
+boat wrecked in the Grand Canyon. Purpose of trip,
+survey for a railroad.</p>
+
+<p>Notes. Nims had a fall in Marble Canyon, which
+broke his leg. He was taken out over a 1700-foot wall
+and carried over the plateau to a point where he could
+be hauled out by wagon. McDonald left the expedition
+near the upper end of the Grand Canyon, Hogue and
+one other left at Diamond Creek.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Galloway</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Nathan Galloway left Green River, Wyoming, in the
+autumn of 1895 and went to Lee’s Ferry. Late in 1896
+N. Galloway and Wm. Richmond left Henry’s Fork,
+Wyoming, and reached Needles, <abbr title="February">Feb.</abbr> 10, 1897. Galloway
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339"></span>passed down as far as the Uintah Valley five times,
+and through Desolation and Gray canyons seven times,
+through Cataract three times, and the Grand Canyon,
+once before making the trip with Julius F. Stone.
+Galloway was a trapper.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Flavell</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>On Aug. 27, 1896, George F. Flavell and one companion,
+name unknown, started from Green River,
+Wyoming, and went to Yuma, Arizona, which was reached
+Dec. 1896. They had one boat; flat-bottomed. Little
+is known about this expedition. Prospector or trapper?</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Russell-Monnette</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Charles S. Russell, E. R. Monnette, and Bert Loper,
+in three steel boats, left Blake (Green River), Utah, Sept.
+20, 1907. Russell and Monnette reached Needles in Feb.
+1908 with one boat. Purpose, prospecting.</p>
+
+<p>Notes. Loper’s boat was punctured in the lower end
+of Cataract Canyon, and he held up to repair while the
+others continued to prospect as far as Lee’s Ferry. After
+a long wait they proceeded with the trip. Loper arrived
+shortly after, but discontinued the trip when he found
+he was left behind. A second boat was lost in the Hance
+Rapid. The third boat was torn away from them, while
+lining it in the Hermit Creek Rapid. They climbed the
+granite, and followed a trail which took them to the camp
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340"></span>of L. Bouchre, a prospector. The boat was found the
+next day with three holes in its side, in a whirlpool five
+miles below the Hermit Creek Rapid. The boat was repaired
+and the voyage completed to Needles.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Stone</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Julius F. Stone of Columbus, Ohio, accompanied by
+Nathan T. Galloway, Chas. S. Sharp, S. S. Denbeudorff,
+and R. A. Cogswell (Photographer), outfitted with four
+flat-bottomed boats, left Green River, Wyoming, Sept.
+12, 1909, and reached Needles <abbr title="November">Nov.</abbr> 15, 1909, with all
+boats in good condition, and with the remarkable record
+for Stone and Galloway of having brought their two
+boats through without an upset.</p>
+
+<p>Notes. Sharp discontinued the trip at Glen Canyon,
+and one boat was left at this place. Purpose,
+photographic exploration.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">
+<span class="smcap">Kolb</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>On Sept. 8, 1911, Emery C. Kolb, James Fagin, and
+Ellsworth L. Kolb, outfitted with two flat-bottomed
+boats, left Green River and arrived at Bright Angel
+Trail, Nov. 16, 1911. James Fagin left the party at the
+mouth of Lodore Canyon. On Dec. 19, Herbert Lauzon
+joined the party at the Grand Canyon for the trip to
+Needles; Ernest V. Kolb was taken along for a twenty-five
+mile ride to the end of the Bass Trail. Lauzon finished
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341"></span>the trip at Needles with the Kolb brothers, <abbr title="January">Jan.</abbr> 18,
+1912. Purpose, moving pictures and photographs. In
+May, 1913, E. L. Kolb made the trip from Needles to the
+Gulf, travelling on the high water and making the 400-mile
+run in 8 days.</p>
+
+<h3 class="p2" id="Cataract">
+THE HISTORY OF CATARACT CANYON
+</h3>
+
+<p>J. S. Best and party left Green River, Utah, July
+10, 1891. Wrecked in Cataract Canyon. No lives lost.</p>
+
+<p>There are incomplete records of nine parties who
+have attempted to pass through Cataract Canyon, and
+who undoubtedly met with fatalities. On two occasions
+a single member escaped and reached the Hite ranch
+in a famished condition.</p>
+
+<p>John Vartan, an Armenian prospector, lost his boat
+and barely succeeded in escaping. His clothes were
+made into a rope by which he dropped from a ledge
+to a canyon, through which he reached the Land of
+Standing Rocks. He was found after weeks of exposure,
+during which time he lived on plants and roots. He
+was nursed back to life, but never gave a very clear account
+of his experiences.</p>
+
+<p>A. G. Turner, the Glen Canyon prospector, made
+a successful passage through the rapids of this canyon
+in 1907.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_342"></span></p>
+
+<p>The Stone expedition found a wrecked boat and fresh
+tracks of three persons, one of these being a boy’s tracks,
+on the shore. No further trace of them has been discovered.</p>
+
+<p>Charles Smith wrote us that he succeeded in getting
+through after we saw him in 1911.</p>
+
+<p>In 1912 Smith and Galloway combined and passed
+through in safety. Near Dark Canyon they found the
+decomposed body of a man on a rock in mid-stream.
+From odors, they judged there were other bodies in
+other places not far from this find.</p>
+
+<p>Just before this book goes to press we have received
+two letters, one from Mr. J. F. Stone, stating that Galloway
+had died a natural death. Another letter is from
+John Hite, informing us that his brother Cass Hite was
+dead. In the same letter he states that Smith left
+Blake, Utah, for the third time, in November, 1913, and
+had never showed up at his home. Later he and Loper
+found half of his wrecked boat. A full heart pays tribute
+to the memory of Smith.</p>
+
+<p>So it goes on from year to year. Judging by these
+experiences it would seem that the carefully planned
+expeditions, especially those with covered boats containing
+air chambers, succeed in getting through.</p>
+
+<p>The writer believes that a passage can be made through
+Cataract Canyon, in low water, without being compelled
+to run more than one or two bad rapids, if great
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343"></span>care is taken while crossing from one shore to the other
+between the rapids. With a light canvas boat, or
+with a canoe in the hands of experts, it might be possible
+to avoid them all, but I would not care to be so quoted,
+as I am a little uncertain about the two last bad rapids.
+This would not be possible in Marble or the Grand
+Canyon. The last mentioned contains many rapids as
+bad as any in Cataract Canyon. We find that all those
+who have made successful passages are infatuated with
+their type of boat. All we will claim for our type, which
+came to us through Stone and Galloway, is that three
+expeditions have used this type of boat, and they all—with
+the exception of one in perfect condition left by
+Stone’s party with Hite—finished at Needles. But
+whether made of steel, wood, or canvas, all boats should
+be decked as much as possible to keep out the powerful
+waves, and should contain large air chambers. Rowlocks,
+oars, paddles, and ropes should be carefully guarded
+against breakage and loss.</p>
+
+<p>The flood stage on the Colorado River, about 300,000
+cubic second feet, exceeds that on the St. Lawrence River
+at Niagara Falls, which carries about 250,000 cubic second
+feet. The descent in many rapids on the Colorado equals
+that of any section of the St. Lawrence, excepting Niagara
+Falls. In the low water stage, the rapids lose much of
+their strength of current and violence of waves, and the
+flow is only a small fraction of the flood stage.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_344"></span></p>
+
+<p>The deepest canyons of the Green and Colorado
+rivers, their length, approximate depth, and the fall of
+the river are as follows. These figures are compiled from
+“A Canyon Voyage,” <abbr title="United Stated Geological Survey">U. S. G. S.</abbr> maps, and other sources.</p>
+
+<table class="p2">
+ <thead class="smcap">
+  <tr><td colspan="2" class="t b r"></td>
+      <th scope="colgroup" colspan="2" class="tdc t b r">Length in Miles</th>
+      <th scope="col" class="tdc t b r">Greatest Depth in Feet</th>
+      <th scope="colgroup" colspan="2" class="tdc t b">Approximate Descent</th></tr>
+ </thead>
+ <tbody>
+  <tr><td class="tdl">Flaming&nbsp;Gorge</td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad1">⎫</td>
+      <td class="tdr" rowspan="3">35</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td colspan="2"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl">Horseshoe</td>
+      <td class="tdl r">⎬</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td colspan="2"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl">Kingfisher</td>
+      <td class="tdl r">⎪</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td colspan="2"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl">Red</td>
+      <td class="tdl r">⎭</td>
+      <td class="r" colspan="2"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2700</td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">350</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Lodore</td>
+      <td class="tdr">20</td>
+      <td class="tdl r">½</td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2700-3000<a id="FNanchor_8_1" href="#Footnote_8_1" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">425</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Whirlpool</td>
+      <td class="tdr">14</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2200</td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">140</td>
+ </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Split Mountain</td>
+      <td class="tdr">9</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2000</td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">90</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Desolation</td>
+      <td class="tdr">97</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2700</td>
+      <td class="tdl">⎫</td>
+      <td class="tdr pad1" rowspan="2">550<a id="FNanchor_9_2" href="#Footnote_9_2" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Gray</td>
+      <td class="tdr">36</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2200</td>
+      <td class="tdl">⎭</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Cataract</td>
+      <td class="tdr">41</td>
+      <td class="r"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">2700-3000<a id="FNanchor_10_3" href="#Footnote_10_3" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">430</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r" colspan="2">Marble</td>
+      <td class="tdr">65</td>
+      <td class="tdl r">½</td>
+      <td class="tdl r pad2">3500</td>
+      <td></td>
+      <td class="tdr pad3">480</td>
+ </tr>
+  <tr><td class="tdl r b" colspan="2">Grand Canyon</td>
+      <td class="tdr b">217</td>
+      <td class="r b"></td>
+      <td class="tdl r b pad2">5000-6000<a id="FNanchor_11_4" href="#Footnote_11_4" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></td>
+      <td class="b"></td>
+      <td class="tdr b pad3">1850</td>
+  </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p class="p2">The entire distance from Green River, Wyoming, to
+the tide water is something over 1600 miles. The descent
+is a little over 6000 feet. About 4300 feet of this descent
+occurs in 500 miles of the canyons listed above; 2330
+feet comes in Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon,
+the two combined making an unbroken canyon of 283
+miles.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_8_1" href="#FNanchor_8_1" class="label">[8]</a> Peaks close to the canyon reach a height of 3000 <abbr title="feet">ft.</abbr> above the river.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_9_2" href="#FNanchor_9_2" class="label">[9]</a> The upper half of Desolation Canyon has no rapids.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_10_3" href="#FNanchor_10_3" class="label">[10]</a> Maps give depth as 2700 ft. We believe some walls are higher.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a id="Footnote_11_4" href="#FNanchor_11_4" class="label">[11]</a> Greatest depth on the south side of the Grand Canyon is near 5000 ft., on the
+north rim about 6000 ft.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr aria-hidden="true" class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter transnote">
+<h3>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE:</h3>
+
+<p>Words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent
+hyphenation in the text. These have been left unchanged, as were
+jargon, dialect, obsolete and alternative spellings. Footnotes
+were renumbered sequentially and were moved to the end of the
+book. Seven misspelled words were corrected. Spelling of <a
+href="#Pittsburg">Pittsburg</a> was not changed, as the official
+spelling lacked an ‘h’ until 1911. <a href="#chg12">Denis
+Julien</a>, mentioned in the appendix, was a French-Canadian who
+left at least eight inscriptions on rock walls in Utah and Colorado.
+Spelling of his name was changed from Julian to Julien, but the
+French spelling of ‘Mai’ was not changed.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13150 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/13150-h/images/colophon.jpg b/13150-h/images/colophon.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c01c20d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/colophon.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/cover.jpg b/13150-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56ed8f7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/frontis.jpg b/13150-h/images/frontis.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7eca1fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/frontis.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_001-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_001-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..993fcf7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_001-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_002-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_002-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..436dca3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_002-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_006-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_006-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2abb543
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_006-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_010a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_010a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2f0cab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_010a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_010b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_010b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1613b35
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_010b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_014-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_014-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27a4dcd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_014-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_018-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_018-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9042b02
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_018-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_022-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_022-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ff7ae3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_022-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_026a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_026a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9efa1c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_026a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_026b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_026b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6657d6f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_026b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_036-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_036-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..14af50a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_036-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_040-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_040-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2a8653f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_040-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_044-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_044-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e6308ad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_044-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_048-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_048-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..237b88d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_048-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_052-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_052-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8338ecf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_052-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_056a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_056a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b10239c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_056a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_056b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_056b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b45e915
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_056b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_060a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_060a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d8c88f0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_060a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_060b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_060b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..427d4d7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_060b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_064-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_064-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f88f77b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_064-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_068a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_068a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7d3e252
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_068a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_068b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_068b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..53c14de
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_068b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_072a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_072a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..464de9a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_072a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_072b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_072b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9bc4058
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_072b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_076-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_076-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ecc2e96
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_076-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_080-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_080-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..71262f0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_080-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_084-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_084-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..03125f1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_084-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_090-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_090-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..543c150
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_090-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_100-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_100-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7f40f85
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_100-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_114-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_114-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c8c522e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_114-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_118-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_118-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..28a43b8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_118-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_122a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_122a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e2a1eac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_122a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_122b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_122b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fcda705
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_122b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_124-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_124-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f025f76
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_124-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_128-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_128-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f6b7811
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_128-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_132a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_132a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..429cf53
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_132a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_132b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_132b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a9ae29d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_132b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_136a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_136a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d41d9e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_136a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_136b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_136b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1429ad4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_136b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_140-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_140-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..55913f4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_140-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_144a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_144a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8df75c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_144a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_144b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_144b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e25f66
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_144b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_148-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_148-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fc0b858
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_148-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_152a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_152a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0bccfda
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_152a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_152b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_152b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0cc733
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_152b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_158-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_158-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a438015
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_158-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_162a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_162a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4a25c26
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_162a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_162b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_162b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e1652ba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_162b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_166-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_166-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..478d371
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_166-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_170a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_170a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c80cab0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_170a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_170b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_170b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..19c811b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_170b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_174-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_174-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb501c4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_174-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_180a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_180a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2bab1d9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_180a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_180b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_180b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d38efe2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_180b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_184-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_184-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ef52cc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_184-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_188-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_188-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ee291f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_188-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_192a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_192a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f568fcd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_192a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_192b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_192b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b7ff98b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_192b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_196-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_196-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e793506
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_196-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_200-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_200-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4d61fea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_200-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_204a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_204a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4a6b04
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_204a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_204b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_204b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1dfd2a0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_204b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_208-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_208-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4531c10
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_208-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_210-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_210-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..121be10
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_210-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_214-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_214-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d9a551b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_214-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_218-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_218-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb807aa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_218-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_222a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_222a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9d3dfa6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_222a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_222b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_222b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1e7cc02
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_222b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_226-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_226-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..04b2470
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_226-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_230-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_230-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..df625a2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_230-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_234-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_234-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e17995e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_234-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_238a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_238a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..666e27d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_238a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_238b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_238b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f929e67
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_238b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_242a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_242a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9932619
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_242a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_242b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_242b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..325b31b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_242b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_246a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_246a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5c94556
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_246a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_246b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_246b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ca9e72
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_246b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_250-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_250-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6932c2e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_250-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_252a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_252a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ca8020e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_252a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_252b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_252b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4d30bc0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_252b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_254-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_254-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..41707d8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_254-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_260a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_260a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0e7c2eb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_260a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_260b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_260b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..de0b2a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_260b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_260c-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_260c-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..98a5868
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_260c-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_266-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_266-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2c9754
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_266-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_270-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_270-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..85b4674
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_270-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_274-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_274-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ad98e2a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_274-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_278-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_278-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c112d92
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_278-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_282-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_282-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..946441a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_282-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_286-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_286-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fb8be7e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_286-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_290-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_290-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..92bf15c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_290-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_298-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_298-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8cb9c4c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_298-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_308a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_308a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a837092
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_308a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_308b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_308b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eccfbc1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_308b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_318a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_318a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d1717c4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_318a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_318b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_318b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0148323
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_318b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_326a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_326a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b572468
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_326a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_326b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_326b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..53115fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_326b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_332a-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_332a-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5a39108
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_332a-fp.jpg
diff --git a/13150-h/images/i_332b-fp.jpg b/13150-h/images/i_332b-fp.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e13abf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/13150-h/images/i_332b-fp.jpg
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
index 6312041..b5dba15 100644
--- a/LICENSE.txt
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
 metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
 in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
 
@@ -7,5 +7,5 @@ the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
 
 No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
 jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
-this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+this book outside of the United States should confirm copyright
 status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
index d18077d..bcfedb9 100644
--- a/README.md
+++ b/README.md
@@ -1,2 +1,2 @@
 Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
-eBook #13150 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13150)
+book #13150 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13150)
diff --git a/old/13150-8.txt b/old/13150-8.txt
deleted file mode 100644
index b2aace4..0000000
--- a/old/13150-8.txt
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,8632 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to
-Mexico, by E. L. Kolb
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-Title: Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico
-
-Author: E. L. Kolb
-
-Release Date: August 10, 2004 [EBook #13150]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Ted Garvin, Keith M. Eckrich, and the Project Gutenberg
-Online Distributed Proofreaders Team
-
-
-
-
-
-THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
-
-
-By E.L. Kolb
-
-
-With a Foreword by Owen Wister
-
-
-New Edition
-With Additional Illustrations
-(72 Plates)
-From Photographs by the Author and His Brother
-
-
-
-1915
-
-
-
-Dedication
-
-TO THE MANY FRIENDS WHO "PULLED" FOR US, IF NOT WITH US DURING THE ONE
-HUNDRED ONE DAYS OF OUR RIVER TRIP, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY
-DEDICATED.
-
-
-
-
-FOREWORD
-
-
-It is a dogged courage of which the author of this book is the serene
-possessor--shared equally by his daring brother; and evidence of this
-bravery is made plain throughout the following pages. Every youth who
-has in him a spark of adventure will kindle with desire to battle his
-way also from Green River to the foot of Bright Angel Trail; while
-every man whose bones have been stiffened and his breath made short by
-the years, will remember wistfully such wild tastes of risk and
-conquest that he, too, rejoiced in when he was young.
-
-Whether it deal with the climbing of dangerous peaks, or the descent
-(as here) of some fourteen hundred miles of water both mysterious and
-ferocious, the well-told tale of a perilous journey, planned with head
-and carried through with dauntless persistence, always holds the
-attention of its readers and gives them many a thrill. This tale is
-very well told. Though it is the third of its kind, it differs from
-its predecessors more than enough to hold its own: no previous
-explorers have attempted to take moving pictures of the Colorado River
-with themselves weltering in its foam. More than this: while the human
-race lasts it will be true, that any man who is lucky enough to fix
-upon a hard goal and win it, and can in direct and simple words tell
-us how he won it, will write a good book.
-
-Perhaps this planet does somewhere else contain a thing like the
-Colorado River--but that is no matter; we at any rate in our continent
-possess one of nature's very vastest works. After The River and its
-tributaries have done with all sight of the upper world, have left
-behind the bordering plains and streamed through the various gashes
-which their floods have sliced in the mountains that once stopped
-their way, then the culminating wonder begins. The River has been
-flowing through the loneliest part which remains to us of that large
-space once denominated "The Great American Desert" by the vague maps
-in our old geographies. It has passed through regions of emptiness
-still as wild as they were before Columbus came; where not only no man
-lives now nor any mark is found of those forgotten men of the cliffs,
-but the very surface of the earth itself looks monstrous and extinct.
-Upon one such region in particular the author of these pages dwells,
-when he climbs up out of the gulf in whose bottom he has left his boat
-by the River, to look out upon a world of round gray humps and hollows
-which seem as if it were made of the backs of huge elephants. Through
-such a country as this, scarcely belonging to our era any more than
-the mammoth or the pterodactyl, scarcely belonging to time at all,
-does the Colorado approach and enter its culminating marvel. Then, for
-283 miles it inhabits a nether world of its own. The few that have
-ventured through these places and lived are a handful to those who
-went in and were never seen again. The white bones of some have been
-found on the shores; but most were drowned; and in this water no
-bodies ever rise, because the thick sand that its torrent churns along
-clogs and sinks them.
-
-This place exerts a magnetic spell. The sky is there above it, but not
-of it. Its being is apart; its climate; its light; its own. The beams
-of the sun come into it like visitors. Its own winds blow through it,
-not those of outside, where we live. The River streams down its
-mysterious reaches, hurrying ceaselessly; sometimes a smooth sliding
-lap, sometimes a falling, broken wilderness of billows and whirlpools.
-Above stand its walls, rising through space upon space of silence.
-They glow, they gloom, they shine. Bend after bend they reveal
-themselves, endlessly new in endlessly changing veils of colour. A
-swimming and jewelled blue predominates, as of sapphires being melted
-and spun into skeins of shifting cobweb. Bend after bend this trance
-of beauty and awe goes on, terrible as the Day of Judgment, sublime as
-the Psalms of David. Five thousand feet below the opens and barrens of
-Arizona, this canyon seems like an avenue conducting to the secret of
-the universe and the presence of the gods.
-
-Is much wonder to be felt that its beckoning enchantment should have
-drawn two young men to dwell beside it for many years; to give
-themselves wholly to it; to descend and ascend among its buttressed
-pinnacles; to discover caves and waterfalls hidden in its labyrinths;
-to climb, to creep, to hang in mid-air, in order to learn more and
-more of it, and at last to gratify wholly their passion in the great
-adventure of this journey through it from end to end? No siren song
-could have lured travellers more than the siren silence of the Grand
-Canyon: but these young men did not leave their bones to whiten upon
-its shores. The courage that brought them out whole is plain
-throughout this narrative, in spite of its modesty.--OWEN WISTER.
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE
-
-
-This is a simple narrative of our recent photographic trip down the
-Green and Colorado rivers in rowboats--our observations and
-impressions. It is not intended to replace in any way the books
-published by others covering a similar journey. Major J.W. Powell's
-report of the original exploration, for instance, is a classic,
-literary and geological; and searchers after excellence may well be
-recommended to his admirable work.
-
-Neither is this chronicle intended as a handbook of the territory
-traversed--such as Mr. F.S. Dellenbaugh's two volumes: "The Romance of
-the Grand Canyon," and "A Canyon Voyage." We could hardly hope to add
-anything of value to his wealth of detail. In fact, much of the data
-given here--such as distances, elevations, and records of other
-expeditions--is borrowed from the latter volume. And I take this
-opportunity of expressing our appreciation to Mr. Dellenbaugh for his
-most excellent and entertaining books.
-
-We are indebted to Mr. Julius F. Stone, of Columbus, Ohio, for much
-valuable information and assistance. Mr. Stone organized a party and
-made the complete trip down the Green and Colorado rivers in the fall
-and winter of 1909, arriving at Needles, California, on November 27,
-1909. He freely gave us the benefit of his experience and presented us
-with the complete plans of the boats he used.
-
-One member of this party was Nathan Galloway, of Richfield, Utah. To
-him we owe much of the success of our journey. Mr. Galloway hunts and
-traps through the wilds of Utah, Colorado, and Arizona, and has a fame
-for skill and nerve throughout this entire region. He makes a yearly
-trip through the upper canyons, usually in a boat of his own
-construction; and in addition has the record of being the only person
-who has made two complete trips through the entire series of canyons,
-clear to Needles. He it is who has worked out the type of boats we
-used, and their management in the dangerous waters of the Colorado.
-
-We have tried to make this narrative not only simple, as we say, but
-truthful. However, no two people can see things in exactly the same
-light. To some, nothing looks big; to others, every little danger is
-unconsciously magnified out of all proportion. For instance, we can
-recall rapids which appeared rather insignificant at first, but which
-seemed decidedly otherwise after we had been overturned in them and
-had felt their power--especially at the moment when we were sure we
-had swallowed a large part of the water that composed them.
-
-The reader will kindly excuse the use of the first person, both
-singular and plural. It is our own story, after all, and there seems
-to be no other way than to tell it as you find it here.
-
-
-
-
-+CONTENTS+
-
-
-CHAPTER                                          PAGE
-
-    I. PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING    1
-
-   II.  INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING     12
-
-  III. THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS              22
-
-   IV. SUSPICIOUS HOSTS                            36
-
-    V. THE BATTLE WITH LODORE                      50
-
-   VI. HELL'S HALF MILE                            64
-
-  VII. JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN                71
-
- VIII. AN INLAND EXCURSION                         83
-
-   IX. CANYON OF DESOLATION                        93
-
-    X. HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN                        102
-
-   XI. WONDERS OF EROSION                         111
-
-  XII. COULD WE SUCCEED?                          121
-
- XIII. A COMPANION VOYAGER                        129
-
-  XIV. A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS               142
-
-   XV. PLACER GOLD                                156
-
-  XVI. A WARNING                                  169
-
- XVII. A NIGHT OF THRILLS                         178
-
-XVIII. MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS              190
-
-  XIX. SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME                 203
-
-   XX. ONE MONTH LATER                            219
-
-  XXI. WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT                 235
-
- XXII. SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE     249
-
-XXIII. THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS       267
-
- XXIV. ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD                    280
-
-  XXV. FOUR DAYS TO YUMA                          290
-
- XXVI. ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER                   303
-
-XXVII. THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA                     321
-
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-The Grand Canyon near the mouth of Ha Va Su Creek     _Frontispiece_
-
-
-After a difficult picture. E. C. Kolb on rope...................   2
-
-In the Grand Canyon near the Little Colorado....................   6
-
-The start at Green River, Wyoming...............................  10
-
-Fire Hole Chimneys..............................................  10
-
-A typical butte formation.......................................  14
-
-Boats and crew. Photo taken in the Grand Canyon.................  18
-
-Skeleton found in the Grand Canyon..............................  22
-
-Inside of the first canyons.....................................  26
-
-Tilted rocks at Kingfisher Canyon...............................  26
-
-"Immense rocks had fallen from the cliff".......................  36
-
-Ashley Falls, looking down-stream...............................  40
-
-The rocks were dark red; occasional pines grew on the ledges,
-  making a charming combination of colour.......................  44
-
-"We stopped at one hay ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line"...  48
-
-Remarkable entrance to Lodore Canyon............................  52
-
-"The river cut a channel under the walls" at Lower Disaster
-  Falls.........................................................  56
-
-"Everything was wet"............................................  56
-
-A Colorado River salmon.........................................  60
-
-Lodore Canyon as seen from Brown's Park.........................  60
-
-"The Canyon was gloomy and darkened with shreds of clouds"......  64
-
-"It took nine loads to empty one boat"..........................  68
-
-"An upright log was found wedged between the boulders"..........  68
-
-Echo Cliffs. "This was the end of Lodore".......................  72
-
-End of Echo Cliffs. The mouth of the Yampa River is on the
- right..........................................................  72
-
-Marvels of erosion..............................................  76
-
-"Here was one end of the rainbow of rock that began on the
-  other side of the mountains"..................................  80
-
-Pat Lynch: the canyon hermit....................................  84
-
-Each bed was placed in a rubber and a canvas sack...............  90
-
-"Now for a fish story" ......................................... 100
-
-The centre of three symmetrical formations in the Double Bow
-  Knot.......................................................... 114
-
-The Buttes of the Cross......................................... 118
-
-"The Land of Standing Rocks was like a maze".................... 122
-
-Rocks overhanging the Colorado's Gorge.......................... 122
-
-Thirteen hundred feet above the Green River..................... 124
-
-The junction of the Green and the Grand Rivers.................. 128
-
-Looking west into Cataract Canyon............................... 132
-
-Charles Smith and his boat...................................... 132
-
-A narrow channel at Rapid No. 22................................ 136
-
-Developing tests................................................ 136
-
-Rapid No. 22 in Cataract Canyon................................. 140
-
-The _Edith_ in a cataract....................................... 144
-
-A seventy-five-foot drop in three-fourths of a mile............. 144
-
-Camp in the heart of Cataract Canyon............................ 148
-
-Lower Cataract Canyon. Boats tandem............................. 152
-
-Beginning of a natural bridge. Glen Canyon...................... 152
-
-Pictographs in Glen Canyon...................................... 158
-
-Cliff ruins near San Juan River................................. 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking south........................... 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking north........................... 166
-
-Glen Canyon near Navajo Mountain................................ 170
-
-Upper Marble Canyon............................................. 170
-
-Placer dredge at Lee's Ferry.................................... 174
-
-Badger Creek Rapid.............................................. 180
-
-Bands of marble in Marble Canyon................................ 180
-
-A peaceful camp in Marble Canyon................................ 184
-
-The Soap Creek Rapid; a little above lowest stage. Photo
-  published by permission of Julius F. Stone.................... 188
-
-"It was too good a camp to miss"................................ 192
-
-Arch in Marble Canyon........................................... 192
-
-Walls of Marble Canyon.......................................... 196
-
-Approaching the Grand Canyon.................................... 200
-
-End of Marble Canyon, from the mouth of the Little Colorado..... 204
-
-Cataracts of the Little Colorado River.......................... 204
-
-End of Hance Trail. Small white line is an intrusion of quartz
-  in the algonkian.............................................. 208
-
-Below the Sockdologer........................................... 210
-
-The Rust Tramway. Span four hundred and fifty feet.............. 214
-
-Bright Angel Creek and Canyon................................... 218
-
-Leaving home, Dec. 19, 1911..................................... 222
-
-A composite picture of Marble Canyon walls and a Grand Canyon
-  rapid......................................................... 222
-
-The _Edith_ (on left of central rock) in Granite Falls.......... 226
-
-Rough water in Hermit Creek Rapid............................... 230
-
-Type of rapid in the granite near Bass Trail.................... 234
-
-The inner plateau, thirteen hundred feet above the river........ 238
-
-Bert Lauzon, above Separation Rapid............................. 238
-
-The break in the _Edith_........................................ 242
-
-Merry Christmas. The repair was made with bilge boards, canvas,
-  paint, and tin................................................ 242
-
-Pulling clear of a rock......................................... 246
-
-A shower bath................................................... 246
-
-Grand Canyon at the mouth of Ha Va Su Canyon. Medium high
-  water. Frontispiece shows same place in low water............. 250
-
-"Morning revealed a little snow," on the top.................... 252
-
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section between the highest
-  sheer walls in the lower gorge................................ 252
-
-Lava Falls. Lava on left, hot springs on right.................. 254
-
-Swift water in Tapeets Creek Rapid.............................. 260
-
-Lauzon, equipped with a life preserver on a rope, on guard
-  below a rapid................................................. 260
-
-In the last granite gorge....................................... 260
-
-Capt. Burro: a Ha Va Supai...................................... 266
-
-The Last Portage. The rocks were ice-filmed. Note potholes...... 270
-
-Mooney Falls: Ha Va Su Canyon................................... 274
-
-Watching for the signal fire. Mrs. Emery and Edith Kolb......... 278
-
-The granite gorge near Bright Angel Trail....................... 282
-
-The Grand Canyon from the head of Bright Angel Trail............ 286
-
-The Cork Screw: lower end of Bright Angel Trail................. 290
-
-Zoroaster Temple from the end of Bright Angel Trail............. 298
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon from the Rim......................... 308
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon at the River......................... 308
-
-A vaquero in the making......................................... 318
-
-Cliff swallows' nests. Found from Wyoming to Mexico............. 318
-
-Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake................................ 326
-
-Cocopah Mountain, Mexico........................................ 326
-
-Ten miles from the Gulf of California. Coming up on a
-  twenty-foot tide.............................................. 332
-
-Sunset on the lower Colorado River.............................. 332
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I
-
-
-
-PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING
-
-Early in September of 1911 my brother Emery and I landed in Green
-River City, Wyoming, ready for the launching of our boats on our
-long-planned trip down the Green and Colorado rivers.
-
-For ten years previous to this time we had lived at the Grand Canyon
-of Arizona, following the work of scenic photography. In a general way
-we had covered much of the country adjacent to our home, following our
-pack animals over ancient and little-used trails, climbing the walls
-of tributary canyons, dropping over the ledges with ropes when
-necessary, always in search of the interesting and unusual.
-
-After ten years of such work many of our plans in connection with a
-pictorial exploration of the Grand Canyon were crowned with success.
-Yet all the while our real ambition remained unsatisfied.
-
-We wanted to make the "Big Trip"--as we called it; in other words, we
-wanted a pictorial record of the entire series of canyons on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
-
-The time had come at last, after years of hoping, after long months of
-active preparation.
-
-We stood at the freight window of the station at Green River City
-asking for news of our boats. They had arrived and could be seen in
-their crates shoved away in a corner. It was too late to do anything
-with them that day; so we let them remain where they were, and went
-out to look over the town.
-
-Green River City proved to be a busy little place noisy with switch
-engines, crowded with cattle-men and cowboys, and with hunting parties
-outfitting for the Jackson Hole country. A thoroughly Western town of
-the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people and
-surroundings that the name implies.
-
-It was busier than usual, even, that evening; for a noisy but
-good-natured crowd had gathered around the telegraph office, eager for
-news of a wrestling match then taking place in an Eastern city. As we
-came up they broke into a cheer at the news that the American wrestler
-had defeated his foreign opponent. There was a discussion as to what
-constituted the "toe-hold," three boys ran an impromptu foot-race,
-there was some talk on the poor condition of the range, and the party
-began to break up.
-
-The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel; feeling, in
-spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome and very much out of place.
-Our sleep that night was fitful and broken by dreams wherein the
-places we had known were strangely interwoven with these new scenes
-and events. Through it all we seemed to hear the roar of the Rio
-Colorado.
-
-We looked out of the window the next morning, on a landscape that was
-novel, yet somehow familiar. The river, a quarter of a mile away, very
-clear and unruffled under its groves of cottonwood, wound through low
-barren hills, as unlike as could be to the cliffs and chasms we knew
-so well. But the colours--gray, red, and umber, just as Moran has
-painted them--reassured us. We seemed not so far from home, after all.
-
-It was Wyoming weather, though; clear and cold, after a windy night.
-When, after breakfast, we went down to the river, we found that a
-little ice had formed along the margin.
-
-The days of final preparation passed quickly--with unpacking of
-innumerable boxes and bundles, checking off each article against our
-lists; and with a long and careful overhauling of our photographic
-outfit.
-
-This last was a most important task, for the success of our expedition
-depended on our success as photographers. We could not hope to add
-anything of importance to the scientific and topographic knowledge of
-the canyons already existing: and merely to come out alive at the
-other end did not make a strong appeal to our vanity. We were there as
-scenic photographers in love with their work, and determined to
-reproduce the marvels of the Colorado's canyons, as far as we could do
-it.
-
-In addition to three film cameras we had 8 � 10 and 5 � 7 plate
-cameras; a plentiful supply of plates and films; a large cloth
-dark-room; and whatever chemicals we should need for tests. Most
-important of all, we had brought a motion-picture camera. We had no
-real assurance that so delicate an apparatus, always difficult to use
-and regulate, could even survive the journey--much less, in such
-inexperienced hands as ours, reproduce its wonders. But this,
-nevertheless, was our secret hope, hardly admitted to our most
-intimate friends--that we could bring out a record of the Colorado as
-it is, a live thing, armed as it were with teeth, ready to crush and
-devour.
-
-There was shopping to do; for the purchases of provisions, with a few
-exceptions, had been left to the last. There were callers, too--an
-embarrassing number of them. We had camped on a small island near the
-town, not knowing when we did so that it had recently been put aside
-for a public park. The whole of Green River City, it seemed, had
-learned of our project, and came to inspect, or advise, or jeer at us.
-The kindest of them wished us well; the other sort told us "it would
-serve us right"; but not one of our callers had any encouragement to
-offer. Many were the stories of disaster and death with which they
-entertained us. One story in particular, as it seems never to have
-reached print--though unquestionably true--ought to be set down here.
-
-Three years before two young men from St. Louis had embarked here,
-intending to follow the river throughout its whole course. They were
-expert canoeists, powerful swimmers, and equipped with a steel boat,
-we were told, built somewhat after the style of a canoe. They chose
-the time of high water--not knowing, probably, that while high water
-decreases the labour of the passage, it greatly increases the danger
-of it. They came to the first difficult rapid in Red Canyon, seventy
-odd miles below Green River City. It looked bad to them. They landed
-above it and stripped to their underclothing and socks. Then they
-pushed out into the stream.
-
-Almost at once they lost control of the boat. It overturned; it rolled
-over and over; it flung them off and left them swimming for their
-lives. In some way, possibly the currents favouring, they reached the
-shore. The boat, with all its contents, was gone. There they were,
-almost naked, without food, without weapons, without the means of
-building a fire; and in an uninhabited and utterly inhospitable
-country.
-
-For four days they wandered, blistered by the sun by day; nearly
-frozen at night, bruised by the rocks, and torn by the brambles.
-Finally they reached the ranch at the head of the canyons and were
-found by a half-breed Indian, who cared for them. Their underwear had
-been made into bindings for their lacerated feet; they were nearly
-starved, and on the verge of mental collapse. After two weeks'
-treatment in the hospital at Green River City they were partially
-restored to health. Quite likely they spent many of the long hours of
-their convalescence on the river bank, or on the little island,
-watching the unruffled stream glide underneath the cottonwoods.
-
-Such tales as this added nothing to our fears, of course--for the
-whole history of the Colorado is one long story of hardship and
-disaster, and we knew, even better than our advisors, what risks lay
-before us. We told our newfound friends, in fact, that we had lived
-for years on the brink of the Grand Canyon itself, a gorge deeper and
-more awful, even, than Lodore; with a volume of water ten times
-greater. We knew, of course, of the river's vast length, of the
-terrible gorges that confined it, of the hundreds of rapids through
-which a boat would have to pass.
-
-We knew, too, how Major Powell, undismayed by legends of underground
-channels, impassable cataracts, and whirlpools; of bloodthirsty tribes
-haunting its recesses,--had passed through the canyons in safety,
-measuring and surveying as he went. We also knew of the many other
-attempts that had been made--most of them ending in disaster or death,
-a very few being successful.
-
-Well, it had been done;[1] it could be done again--this was our answer
-to their premonitions.
-
-We had present worries enough to keep us from dwelling too much on the
-future. It had been our intention to start two weeks earlier, but
-there had been numerous unavoidable delays. The river was low; "the
-lowest they had seen it in years" they told us, and falling lower
-every day. There were the usual difficulties of arranging a lot of new
-material, and putting it in working order.
-
-At last we were ready for the boats, and you may be sure we lost no
-time in having them hauled to the river, and launching them.
-
-They were beauties--these two boats of ours--graceful, yet strong in
-line, floating easily, well up in the water, in spite of their five
-hundred pounds' weight. They were flat-bottomed, with a ten-inch rake
-or raise at either end; built of white cedar, with unusually high
-sides; with arched decks in bow and stern, for the safe storing of
-supplies. Sealed air chambers were placed in each end, large enough to
-keep the boats afloat even if filled with water. The compartment at
-the bow was lined with tin, carefully soldered, so that even a leak in
-the bottom would not admit water to our precious cargoes. We had
-placed no limit on their cost, only insisting that they should be of
-materials and workmanship of the very best, and strictly in accordance
-with our specifications. In every respect but one they pleased us.
-Imagine our consternation when we discovered that the hatch covers
-were anything but water-tight, though we had insisted more upon this,
-perhaps, than upon any other detail. Loose boards, with cross-pieces,
-fastened with little thumbscrews--there they were, ready to admit the
-water at the very first upset.
-
-There was nothing to be done. It was too late to rebuild the hatches
-even if we had had the proper material. Owing to the stage of water it
-was imperative that we should start at once. Bad as it would be to
-have water in our cargo, it would be worse to have too little water in
-the rock-obstructed channels of Red Canyon, or in the "flats" at
-Brown's Park for instance.
-
-Certainly the boats acted so beautifully in the water that we could
-almost overlook the defective hatches. Emery rowed upstream for a
-hundred yards, against a stiff current, and came back jubilant.
-
-"They're great--simply great!" he exclaimed.
-
-We had one real cause for worry, for actual anxiety, though; and as
-each hour brought us nearer to the time of departure, we grew more and
-more desperate. What about our third man?
-
-We were convinced that a third man was needed; if not for the duties
-of camp making, helping with the cooking and portaging; at least, for
-turning the crank of the motion-picture camera. Emery and I could not
-very well be running rapids, and photographing ourselves in the rapids
-at the same time. Without a capable assistant, therefore, much of the
-real purpose would be defeated.
-
-Our first move, accordingly, had been to secure the services of a
-strong, level-headed, and competent man. Friends strongly advised us
-to engage a Canadian canoe-man, or at least some one familiar with the
-management of boats in rough water. It was suggested, also, that we
-might secure the help of some one of the voyagers who had been members
-of one of the previous expeditions.
-
-But--we may as well be frank about it--we did not wish to be piloted
-through the Colorado by a guide. We wanted to make our own trip in our
-own way. If we failed, we would have no one but ourselves to blame; if
-we succeeded, we would have all the satisfaction that comes from
-original, personal exploration. In other words, we wanted a man to
-execute orders, not to give them. But that man was hard to find!
-
-There had been many applicants; some of them from distant parts of the
-country. One by one they were sifted out. At length we decided on one
-man; but later he withdrew. We turned elsewhere, but these
-applications were withdrawn, until there remained but a single letter,
-from a young man in San Francisco. He seemed in every way qualified.
-We wrote accepting his application, but while waiting to hear from us
-a civil service position had been offered and accepted. "He was
-sorry"; and so were we, for his references proved that he was a
-capable man. Later he wrote that he had secured a substitute. We
-replied on the instant, by wiring money for transportation, with
-instructions for the new man to report at once at Green River. We took
-very much for granted, having confidence in our friends' sincerity and
-knowledge of just what was required.
-
-The time had passed, two days before; but--no sign of our man! We
-wrote, we telegraphed, we walked back and forth to every train; but
-still he did not come. Had this man, too, failed us?
-
-Then "Jimmy" came--just the night before we were to leave. And never
-was a man more heartily welcome!
-
-With James Fagen of San Francisco our party was complete. He was an
-Irish-American, aged 22 years, a strong, active, and willing chap. To
-be sure, he was younger, and not so experienced at "roughing it" as we
-had hoped. But his good qualities, we were sure, would make up for
-what was lacking.
-
-Evening found us encamped a half mile below the town, the county
-bridge. Our preparations were finished--even to the final purchase of
-odds and ends; with ammunition for shot-gun and rifle. We threw our
-sleeping-bags on the dry ground close to the river's edge, and, all
-our anxieties gone, we turned our faces to the stars and slept.
-
-At daybreak we were aroused by the thunder of hoofs on the bridge
-above us, and the shouts of cowboys driving a large herd of
-half-broken horses. We tumbled into our clothes, splashed our faces
-with ice-cold water from the river, and hurried over to the hotel for
-a last breakfast.
-
-Then we sat down--in the little hotel at Green River City--as others
-had done before, to write last messages to those who were nearest and
-dearest to us. A telegram to our parents in an Eastern city; and
-another to Emery's wife and little girl, at Bright Angel, more than
-eight hundred miles down this self-same river--these, somehow, took
-longer to write than the letters themselves. But whatever we may have
-felt, we finished this final correspondence in silence, and hurried
-back to the river.
-
-Something of a crowd had gathered on the bridge to wish us _bon
-voyage_. Shouting up to them our thanks for their hospitality, and
-telling them to "look pleasant," we focussed the motion-picture camera
-on them, Emery turning the crank, as the boat swung out into the
-current.
-
-So began our journey, on Friday, September the 8th, 1911, at 9.30
-A.M., as entered in my journal.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II
-
-
-
-INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING
-
-All this preparation--and still more, the vexatious delays--had been a
-heavy tax upon us. We needed a vacation. We took it--six pleasant
-care-free days--hunting and fishing as we drifted through the sixty
-miles of southern Wyoming. There were ducks and geese on the river to
-test our skill with the shot-gun. Only two miles below Green River
-City Emery secured our first duck, a promise of good sport to follow.
-An occasional cottontail rabbit was seen, scurrying to cover through
-the sage-brush, when we made a detour from the boats. We saw many
-jack-rabbits too--with their long legs, and exaggerated
-ears--creatures swifter, even, than the coyotes themselves.
-
-We saw few people, though an occasional rancher hailed us from the
-shore. Men of the open themselves, the character of our expedition
-appealed to them. Their invitations to "come up to the ranch, and
-spend the evening" were always hearty, and could seldom be refused if
-the day was nearly gone.
-
-The Logan boys' ranch, for instance, was our first camp; but will be
-one of the last to be forgotten. The two Logan boys were sturdy,
-companionable young men, full of pranks, and of that bubbling,
-generous humour that flourishes in this Western air. We were amused by
-their kindly offer to allow Jimmy to ride "the little bay"--a
-beautiful animal, with the shifty eye of a criminal. But Jimmy, though
-city-bred, was not to be trapped, and declined; very wisely, as we
-thought. We photographed their favourite horses, and the cabin; also
-helped them with their own camera, and developed some plates in the
-underground storm-cellar,--a perfect dark-room, as it happened.
-
-We took advantage of this pleasant camp to make a few alterations
-about our boats. Certain mechanical details had been neglected in our
-desire to be off, our intention being to look after them as occasion
-demanded. Our short run had already shown us where we were weak or
-unprepared. The rowlocks needed strengthening. One had come apart in
-our first brush with a little riffle. The rowlocks were of a
-little-used type, but very serviceable in dangerous waters. Inside the
-usual rowlock a heavy ring was hung, kept in place by strong
-set-screws, but allowing full play in every direction. These rings
-were slipped over the oars; then the usual leather collar was nailed
-on the oar, making it impossible for the rings to become separated
-from the oars. The holes for the set-screws were too shallow, so we
-went over the entire lot to deepen them. We foresaw where a break
-might occur, and hung another lock of the open type on a cord, beside
-each oar, ready for instant use in case of emergency.
-
-The Logan boys, seeing our difficulties in making some of these
-changes, came to our relief. "Help yourselves to the blacksmith shop,"
-they said heartily. Here was an opportunity. Much time was consumed in
-providing a device to hold our extra oars--out of the way on top of
-the deck, but available at a moment's notice. Thanks to the Logan boys
-and their blacksmith shop, these and many other little details were
-corrected once for all; and we launched our boats in confidence on the
-morning of September 10.
-
-A few miles below we came to the locally famous Fire Hole Chimneys,
-interesting examples of the butte formation, so typical of the West.
-There were several of these buttes, about 800 feet high, composed of
-stratified rock; in colour quite similar to the rocks at Green River
-City, but capped with rock of a peculiar burnt appearance, though not
-of volcanic origin. Some of the buttes sloped up from the very edge of
-the river; others were separated from the river by low flats, covered
-with sage-brush and bunch-grass,--that nutritious food of the range
-stock. At the water's edge was the usual fringe of willows,
-cottonwoods, and shrubs innumerable,--all mirrored in the limpid
-surface of Green River.
-
-At the foot of the cliffs were a number of wild burros, old and
-young--fuzzy little baby-burros, looking ridiculously like
-jack-rabbits--snorting their indignation at our invasion of their
-privacy. Strange, by the way, how quickly these wild asses lose their
-wildness of carriage when broken, and lapse into the utmost docility!
-
-Just below the Chimneys Emery caught sight of fish gathered in a deep
-pool, under the foliage of a cottonwood tree which had fallen into the
-river. Our most tempting bait failed to interest them; so Emery, ever
-clever with hook and line, "snagged" one just to teach them better
-manners. It was a Colorado River salmon or whitefish. That evening I
-"snagged" a catfish and used this for salmon bait, a fourteen-pound
-specimen rewarding the attempt.
-
-These salmon were old friends of ours, being found from one end to the
-other of the Colorado, and on all its tributaries. They sometimes
-weigh twenty-five or thirty pounds, and are common at twenty pounds;
-being stockily built fish, with large, flat heads. They are not gamey,
-but afford a lot of meat with a very satisfying flavour.
-
-On September 11, about forty miles below Green River, we passed
-Black's Fork, a tributary entering from the west. It is a stream of
-considerable length, but was of little volume at that time. The banks
-were cliffs about 300 feet high, rugged, dark, and overhanging. Here
-were a half dozen eagles and many old nests--proof enough, if proof
-were needed, that we were in a little visited country. What strong,
-splendid birds they were; how powerful and graceful their flight as
-they circled up, and up, into the clear blue sky!
-
-Our next camp was at the Holmes' ranch, a few miles below Black's
-Fork. We tried to buy some eggs of Walter Holmes, and were told that
-we could have them on one condition--that we visit him that evening.
-This was a price we were only too glad to pay, and the evening will
-linger long in our memories.
-
-Mr. Holmes entertained us with stories of hunting trips--after big
-game in the wilds of Colorado; and among the lakes of the Wind River
-Mountains, the distant source of the Green River. Mrs. Holmes and two
-young ladies entertained us with music; and Jimmy, much to our
-surprise, joined in with a full, rich baritone. It was late that night
-when we rolled ourselves in our blankets, on the banks twenty feet
-above the river.
-
-Next morning we were shown a group of Mrs. Holmes' pets--several young
-rabbits and a kitten, romping together in the utmost good fellowship.
-The rabbits had been rescued from a watery grave in an irrigation
-ditch and carefully nursed back to life. We helped her search for a
-lame wild duck that had spurned the offer of a good home with
-civilized ducklings, and had taken to the sage-brush. Mrs. Holmes'
-love of wild animals, however, failed to include the bald-headed eagle
-that had shown such an appetite for her spring chickens.
-
-A few miles below this ranch we passed Bridger Crossing, a ford on an
-old trail through southern Wyoming. In pioneer days Jim Bridger's home
-was on this very spot. But those romantic days are long since past;
-and where this world-famous scout once watched through the loopholes
-of his barricade, was an amazed youngster ten or eleven years old who
-gazed on us, then ran to the cabin and emerged with a rifle in his
-hands. We thought little of this incident at the time, but later we
-met the father of the boy and were told that the children had been
-left alone with the small boy as their only protector, and that he
-stood ready to defend the home against any possible marauders. No
-doubt we looked bad enough to him.
-
-Just below the ford the channel widened, and the river became very
-shallow, the low rolling hills falling away into a wide green prairie.
-We camped that night on a small island, low and treeless, but covered
-with deep, rank grass. Next morning our sleeping-bags were wet with
-frost and dew. A hard pull against a heavy wind between gradually
-deepening rocky banks made us more than glad to pitch camp at noon a
-short distance above the mouth of Henry's Fork, a considerable stream
-flowing from the west. In the afternoon Emery and I decided to walk to
-Linwood, lying just across the Utah line, four miles up Henry's Fork.
-Jimmy preferred to remain with the boats.
-
-Between the river and a low mesa lay a large ranch of a different
-appearance from those others which we had passed. Those past were
-cattle ranches, with stock on the open range, and with little ground
-fit for cultivation, owing to the elevation. Here we found great,
-broad acres, fenced and cultivated, with thoroughbred stock--horses
-and cattle--contentedly grazing.
-
-This pastoral scene, with a background of rugged mountains, appealed
-strongly to our photographic instincts. After three or four exposures,
-we climbed the farthest fence and passing from alfalfa to sage-brush
-in one step, were at the foot of the mesa.
-
-Climbing to the summit, we beheld the village in the distance, in a
-beautiful green valley--a splendid example of Mormon irrigation and
-farming methods. Linwood proved to be the market-place for all the
-ranchers of this region. Dotting the foot-hills where water was less
-plentiful were occasional cabins, set down in the middle of hay
-ranches. All this husbandry only emphasized the surrounding
-desolation. Just beyond, dark in the southern sky, rose the great
-peaks of the Uintah range, the mountains we were so soon to enter.
-
-Storm-clouds had been gathering about one great snow-covered peak, far
-in the distance. These clouds spread and darkened, moving rapidly
-forward. We had taken the hint and were already making all possible
-haste toward the town, hoping to reach it before the storm broke. But
-it was useless. Long before we had gained the edge of the valley the
-rain had commenced in the mountains,--small local storms, resembling
-delicate violet-coloured veils, hung in the dense pall of the clouds.
-There were far flashes of lightning, and the subdued roar of distant
-thunder, rapidly growing louder as the storm approached. Unable to
-escape a drenching, we paused a moment to wonder at the sight; to
-marvel--and shrink a little too--at the wild, incessant lightning. The
-peaks themselves seemed to be tumbling together, such was the
-continuous roar of thunder, punctuated by frequent deafening crashes.
-
-Then the storm came down upon us. Such torrents of rain we have seldom
-witnessed: such gusts of driving wind! At times we could scarcely make
-headway against it, but after most strenuous effort we neared the
-village. We hoped to find shelter under a bridge, but found
-innumerable muddy streams running through the planks. So we resumed
-our plodding, slipping and sliding in the black, bottomless mud.
-
-The storm by this time had passed as quickly as it came. Wet to our
-skins, we crawled into the little store and post-office combined,
-and found it filled with ranch hands, waiting for the weekly mail.
-We made a few purchases, wrote some letters, then went to a large
-boarding-house near by and fortified ourselves with a generous,
-hot supper.
-
-There were comments by some of the men on our venture, but they lacked
-the true Green River tang. Here, close to the upper canyons, the
-unreasonable fear of the rapids gave way to a reasonable respect for
-them. Here we heard again of the two young men from St. Louis, and the
-mishaps that had befallen them. Here too we were to hear for the first
-time of the two Snyders, father and son, and the misfortunes that had
-overtaken them in Lodore Canyon, twenty years before. We were to hear
-more of these men later.
-
-We made what haste we could back to our boats, soon being overtaken by
-a horseman, a big-hearted Swede who insisted on carrying our load as
-long as we were going in his direction. How many just such instances
-of kindliness we were to experience on our journey down the river! How
-the West abounds with such men! It was dark when he left us a mile
-from the river. Here there was no road to follow, and we found that
-what had been numerous dry gullies before were now streams of muddy
-water. Two or three of these streams had to be crossed, and we had a
-disagreeable half hour in a marsh. Finally we reached the river, but
-not at the point where we had left our boats. We were uncertain
-whether the camp was above or below us, and called loudly for Jimmy,
-but received no answer.
-
-Emery felt sure that camp was upstream. So upstream we went, keeping
-back of the bushes that fringed the banks, carefully searching for a
-sign. After a few minutes' hunt we heard a sound: a subdued rumble,
-not unlike the distant thunder heard that afternoon, or of boats being
-dragged over the pebbles. What could it be? We listened again,
-carefully this time, and discovered that it came from a point about
-thirty feet away, on the opposite side of the bushes. It could be only
-one thing. Jimmy's snore had brought us home!
-
-Hurriedly securing some dry clothes from the rubber sacks, which
-contained our sleeping-bags as well, we made a quick change, and slid
-into the beds, inflating the air mattresses with our lungs after we
-were inside. Then we lay down contentedly to rest.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III
-
-
-
-THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS
-
-We awoke the next morning full of anticipation. Something new lay
-ahead of us, a promise of variety. In plain sight of our camp lay the
-entrance to Flaming Gorge, the gateway to the entire series of
-canyons. Hurriedly finishing our camp duties, we loaded the boats,
-fastened down the hatches, and shoved off into the current, eager to
-be on our way.
-
-It was cloudy overhead and looked as if we were to have more rain.
-Even then it must have been raining away to the north, for a dirty,
-clay-colored torrent rushed through the dry arroyo of the night
-before, a stream large enough to discolour the water of the Green
-itself. But we thought little of this. We were used to seeing muddy
-water in the Colorado's gorges; in fact we were surprised to find
-clear water at all, even in the Green River. Rowing downstream we
-found that the country sloped gently towards the mountains. The river
-skirted the edge of these foot-hills as if looking for a possible
-escape, then turned and entered the mountain at a sharp angle. The
-walls sloped back considerably at first, and there was a little shore
-on either side.
-
-Somewhere near this point runs the dividing line of Wyoming and Utah.
-
-We considered the gateway a subject worthy of a motion picture, if
-taken from the deck of the boat; but doubted if it would be a success
-owing to the condition of the light and the motion of the boat. Still
-it was considered worthy of a trial, and the film was run through.
-
-The colour of the rocks at the entrance was a light red, but not out
-of the ordinary in brilliancy. The rock formation was stratified, but
-displaced; standing at an angle and flexed over on top with a ragged
-break here and there, showing plainly the great pressure to which the
-rocks had been subjected. The upheaval was not violent, the scientists
-tell us, but slow and even, allowing the river to maintain its old
-channel, sawing its way through the sandstone. The broken canyon
-walls, when well inside the gorge, were about 600 to 700 feet high.
-The mountains beyond and on either side were much higher. The growth
-on the mountain sides was principally evergreen; Douglas fir, the
-bull-pine and yellow pine. There was a species of juniper, somewhat
-different from the Utah juniper, with which we were familiar at the
-Grand Canyon. Bushes and undergrowth were dense above the steep canyon
-walls, which were bare. Willows, alder-thickets, and a few cottonwood
-trees lined the shores.
-
-Meanwhile the current had quickened, almost imperceptibly at first,
-but enough to put us on our guard. While there were no rapids, use was
-made of what swift water we found by practising on the method we would
-use in making a passage through the bad rapids. As to this method,
-unused as yet by either of us, we had received careful verbal
-instruction from Mr. Stone, who had made the trip two years before our
-own venture; and from other friends of Nathan Galloway, the trapper,
-the man who first introduced the method on the Green and Colorado
-rivers.
-
-Our experience on water of any kind was rather limited. Emery could
-row a boat, and row it well, before we left Green River, but had never
-gone over any large rapids. While he was not nearly so large or heavy
-as I,--weighing no more than 130 pounds, while I weighed 170
-pounds,--he made up for his lighter weight by a quickness and strength
-that often surprised me. He was always neat and clever in his method
-of handling his boat, taking a great deal of pride in keeping it free
-from marks, and avoiding rocks when making a landing. I had done very
-little rowing before leaving Green River, so little that I had
-difficulty in getting both oars in the water at the same time. Of
-course it did not take me long to learn that; but I did not have the
-knack of making clean landings, and bumped many rocks that my brother
-missed. Still I was improving all the time and was anxious to get into
-the rough water, feeling sure I would get through somehow, but doing
-my best in the meantime to get the knack of handling the boat properly
-before the rough water was reached.
-
-An occasional rock would stick up above the surface; the swift water
-would rush up on it, or drive past on either side. Instead of pulling
-downstream with might and main, and depending on a steersman with a
-sweep-oar to keep us clear of obstructions--the method usually adopted
-on large rivers, and by the earlier parties on the Colorado--by our
-method the single oarsman reversed his boat so that it was turned with
-the stern downstream, giving the oarsman a view of what was ahead;
-then by pulling upstream the boat was held in check. We allowed
-ourselves to be carried in a direct line with the rocks ahead,
-approaching them as closely as we dared; then, with a pull on one oar,
-the boat was turned slightly at an angle to the current, and swung to
-one side or the other; just as a ferry is headed into the current, the
-water itself helping to force it across. The ferry is held by a cable;
-the boat, by the oarsman; the results are quite similar.
-
-The boats, too, were somewhat unusual in design, having been carefully
-worked out by Galloway after much experience with the problem, and
-after building many boats. He finally settled on the design furnished
-us by Mr. Stone. The flat bottom, sloping up from the centre to either
-end, placed the boats on a pivot one might say, so that they could be
-turned very quickly, much more quickly than if they had had a keel.
-There was a four foot skag or keel under the stern end of the boat,
-but this was only used when in quiet water; and as it was never
-replaced after being once removed we seldom refer to it. Being
-flat-bottomed, they drew comparatively little water, a matter quite
-important on low water such as we found in the Green River. While each
-boat carried a weight of seven hundred pounds in addition to its own
-five hundred pounds, they often passed over rocks less than ten inches
-below the surface, and did so without touching. While the boats were
-quite large, the arched decks made them look even larger. A
-considerable amount of material could be stored under these decks. The
-only part of the boat that was entirely open or unprotected from the
-waves was the cockpit, or mid-section occupied by the oarsman. This
-was only large enough for one man. A second man had to sit on the deck
-behind the oarsman, with his feet hanging into the cockpit. Jimmy
-occupied this place of honour as we drifted through the placid water;
-first on one boat, then on the other, entertaining us meanwhile with
-his songs.
-
-We encountered two splashy little rapids this day, but with no rocks,
-or any dangerous feature whatever. Any method, or none at all, was
-safe enough in these rapids.
-
-The colouring of the rocks changed as we proceeded, and at the lower
-end of the short canyon we saw the flaming patch of colour that had
-suggested its name to Major Powell, forty-two years before.
-Intensified on that occasion by the reflected light of a gorgeous
-sunset, it must have been a most brilliant spectacle.
-
-Two beavers slid into the water when we were close beside them, then
-rose to the surface to stare curiously when we had passed. We left
-them undisturbed. Some geese decoyed us into an attempt to ambush
-them, but they kept always just out of reach of our guns. Wise
-fellows, those geese!
-
-A geological fault accompanied by the breaking down of the walls marks
-the division between Flaming Gorge and Horseshoe Canyon, which
-immediately follows. We nooned here, opposite a deserted cabin. A
-trail dropped by easy stages over the slope on the east side; and
-fresh tracks showed that sheep had recently been driven down to the
-water's edge.
-
-Passing through Horseshoe,--another very short canyon,--we found deep,
-placid pools, and sheer, light red walls rising about four hundred
-feet on either side, then sloping back steeply to the tree-covered
-mountains. In the middle of this canyon Emery was startled out of a
-day-dream by a rock falling into the water close beside him, with
-never a sound of warning. Years spent in the canyons had accustomed
-Emery and me to such occurrences; but Jimmy, unused to great gorges
-and towering cliffs, was much impressed by this incident. After all,
-it is only the unusual that is terrible. Jimmy was ready enough to
-take his chances at dodging bricks hurled by a San Francisco
-earthquake, but never got quite used to rocks descending from a source
-altogether out of sight. Small wonder, after all! Later we were to
-experience more of this thing, and on a scale to startle a stoic!
-
-We halted at the end of Horseshoe, early in the afternoon of September
-14, 1911, one week out from Green River City. Camp No. 6 was pitched
-on a gravelly shore beside Sheep Creek, a clear sparkling stream,
-coming in from the slopes of the Uintah range. Just above us, on the
-west, rose three jagged cliffs, about five hundred feet high,
-reminding one by their shape of the Three Brothers of Yosemite Valley.
-Here, again, we were treated to another wonderful example of geologic
-displacement, the rocks of Horseshoe Canyon lying in level strata;
-while those of Kingfisher, which followed, were standing on end. Sheep
-Creek, flowing from the west, finds an easy course through the fault,
-at the division of the canyons. The balance of this day was spent in
-carefully packing our material and rearranging it in our boats, for we
-expected hard work to follow.
-
-Tempted by the rippling song of the brook, and by tales of fish to be
-found therein, we spent two hours fishing from its banks on the
-morning of the 15th. But the foliage of overhanging trees and shrubs
-was dense, making it difficult to cast our lines, or even to climb
-along its shores, and our small catch of two trout, which were fried
-with a strip of bacon to add flavour, only whetted our appetites for
-more.
-
-It was a little late in the season for many birds. Here in Kingfisher
-Canyon were a few of the fish-catching birds from which the canyon
-took its name. There were many of the tireless cliff-swallows
-scattered all through these canyons, wheeling and darting, ever on the
-wing. These, with the noisy crested jays, an occasional "camp-robber,"
-the little nuthatches, the cheerful canyon wren with his rollicking
-song, the happy water-ousel, "kill-deer," and road-runners and the
-water birds,--ducks, geese, and mud-hens, with an occasional
-crane,--made up the bird life seen in the open country and in these
-upper canyons. Earlier in the season it must be a bird's paradise, for
-berries and seeds would then be plentiful.
-
-We resumed our journey at 10 A.M., a very short run bringing us to the
-end of Kingfisher Canyon. The three canyons passed through approximate
-hardly more than ten miles in length, different names being given for
-geological reasons, as they really form only one canyon. The walls at
-the end were broken down, and brilliantly tinted talus of many hues
-covered the slopes, the different colours intermingling near the
-bottom. The canyon-walled river turned southeast here, and continued
-in this general direction for many miles, but with many twists and
-turns.
-
-We had previously been informed that Red Canyon, the next to follow,
-while not considered bad when compared to others, gave one the
-experience most necessary to combat the rapids farther down. It was
-not without danger, however, as a review of previous expeditions
-showed: some had lost their lives, still others, their boats; and one
-of Major Powell's parties had upset a boat in a Red Canyon rapid. The
-stage of water was so different on these previous attempts that their
-experiences were of little value to us one way or the other. A
-reference to pictures taken by two of these parties showed us there
-was considerable more water when they went through--six, and even
-eight feet higher in places. Possibly this would be the best stage on
-which to make the voyage in heavy boats. The unfortunate ones had
-taken the spring rise, or flood water, with disastrous results to
-themselves or their boats.
-
-We soon found that our passage was to be hard on account of having too
-little water. In the quiet water above we had been seldom bothered
-with shoals; but now that we were in swifter water, there was scarcely
-any depth to it at all, except in the quiet pools between the rapids.
-
-For a description of our passage through this upper end of Red Canyon
-we refer to our journal: sketchy notes jotted down, usually in the
-evening just before retiring, by the light of a camp-fire, or the
-flickering flame of a candle. Under the date of Friday, September the
-15th, we find the following:
-
-     "End of Kingfisher: long, quiet pools and shoals where we
-     grounded a few times; several small, splashy rapids; then a
-     larger one near an old boat landing. Looked the rapid over
-     from the shore. Jim remained at the lower end with a
-     life-preserver on a rope, while we ran the rapid. Struck one
-     or two rocks, lightly; but made the run in safety."
-
-     "At the third rapid we saw some geese--but they got away. At
-     noon we ate a cold lunch and because of the low water
-     removed the skags, carrying them in the cockpit. The scenery
-     in upper Red Canyon is impressive: pines and fir come down
-     on the sloping sides to the river's edge; the rocks are
-     reddish brown in colour, often broken in squares, and
-     looking like great building blocks piled one upon another.
-     The canyon is about fifteen hundred feet deep; the river is
-     clear again, and averages about two hundred feet in width.
-     We have seen a few deer tracks, but have not seen any deer.
-     We also saw some jumping trout in a splashy little rapid.
-     Doubtless they came from a little creek, close by, for we
-     never heard of trout being found in the Green River."
-
-     "We made a motion picture, while dropping our boats down
-     with lines, over the first rapid we considered bad. Emery
-     remained in the boats, keeping clear of the rocks with a
-     pole. Powell's second party records an upset here. We passed
-     Kettle Creek about 5 P.M. In the fifth rapids below Kettle
-     Creek I got on the wrong side of the river and was carried
-     into a very rocky rapid--the worst so far encountered. I
-     touched a rock or two at the start, but made the run in
-     safety; while Emery ran the opposite side without trouble.
-     We camped beside a small stream on the south, where there
-     were signs of an old camp."
-
-     "_Saturday, September 16_. Clear and cold in the early
-     morning. Started about 9 A.M. Lined our boats past a
-     difficult rapid. Too many rocks, not enough water. Two or
-     three miles below this I had some difficulty in a rapid, as
-     the pin of a rowlock lifted out of the socket when in the
-     middle of rough water. Emery snapped a picture just as it
-     happened. A little later E.C.[2] ran a rocky rapid, but had
-     so much trouble that we concluded to line my boat. Noon.
-     Just a cold lunch, but with hot coffee from the vacuum
-     bottles. Then at it again."
-
-     "The scenery is wonderful; the canyon is deeper than above;
-     the river is swift and has a decided drop. We proceed
-     cautiously, and make slow progress. We camp for the day on
-     the north side close to a little, dry gully, on a level sage
-     and bunch-grass covered bottom back from the river's edge.
-     An abruptly descending canyon banked with small cottonwood
-     trees coming in from the opposite side contains a small
-     stream. Put up our tent for the second time since leaving
-     Green River, Wyoming. We are all weary, and glad to-morrow
-     is Sunday--a day of rest."
-
-     "_Sunday, September 17._ E.C. and I follow a fresh deer
-     track up a game trail and get--a rabbit. Climb out about
-     1300 feet above the river to the top of the narrow canyon.
-     Here is a sloping plateau, dotted with bunch-grass and
-     grease-wood, a fourth of a mile wide. Then rounded mountains
-     rise beyond the plateau, some of the peaks reaching a height
-     of 4000 feet above the river. The opposite side is much the
-     same, but with a wider plateau. We had no idea before what a
-     wonderful country this is. It is a picture to tempt an
-     artist. High on the mountain tops is the dark blue-green of
-     pines and firs, reds and yellows are mixed in the quaking
-     aspen,--for the frost comes early enough to catch the sap in
-     the leaves; little openings, or parks with no trees, are
-     tinted a beautiful soft gray; 'brownstone fronts' are found
-     in the canyon walls; and a very light green in the
-     willow-leafed cottonwoods at the river's edge, and in all
-     side canyons where there is a running stream. The river
-     glistens in the sunlight, as it winds around the base of the
-     wall on which we stand, and then disappears around a bend in
-     the canyon. Turn where we will, we see no sign of an
-     opening, nothing but the rounded tops of wooded mountains,
-     red and green, far as the eye can reach, until they
-     disappear in the hazy blue. Finally Emery's keen eyes, aided
-     by the binoculars, discover a log cabin at the foot of a
-     mountain, on the plateau opposite us about three miles
-     away."
-
-     "We hurry back to camp and write some letters; then Jim and
-     I cross the river and climb out over the rocky walls to the
-     plateau above. In two hours we reach the cabin. It is
-     new--not yet finished. A woman and four children are looking
-     over a garden when we arrive. They are a little frightened
-     at first, but soon recover. The woman gladly promises to
-     take out our mail when they go to the nearest town, which
-     happens to be Vernal, Utah, forty-five miles away. Three
-     other families live near by, all recently moved in from
-     Vernal. The woman tells us that Galloway hunts bear in these
-     timbered mountains, and has killed some with a price on
-     their heads--bear with a perverted taste for fresh beef."[3]
-
-     "Thanking the woman, we make our way back to the river. We
-     see some dried-out elk horns along our trail; though it is
-     doubtful if elk get this far south at present. A deer trail,
-     leading down a ravine, makes our homeward journey much
-     easier. It has turned quite cold this evening, after sunset.
-     We finish our notes and prepare to roll into our beds a
-     little earlier than usual."
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV
-
-
-
-SUSPICIOUS HOSTS
-
-We awoke bright and early the next morning, much refreshed by our day
-of rest and variety. With an early start we were soon pulling down the
-river, and noon found us several miles below the camp, having run
-eleven rapids with no particular difficulty. A reference in my notes
-reads: "Last one has a thousand rocks, and we could not miss them all.
-My rowing is improving, and we both got through fairly well." In the
-afternoon they continued to come--an endless succession of small
-rapids, with here and there a larger one. The canyon was similar to
-that at our camp above, dark red walls with occasional pines on the
-ledges,--a most charming combination of colour. At 2.30 P.M. we
-reached Ashley Falls, a rapid we had been expecting to see for some
-time. It was a place of singular beauty. A dozen immense rocks had
-fallen from the cliff on the left, almost completely blocking the
-channel--or so it seemed from one point of view. But there was a
-crooked channel, not more than twelve wide in places, through which
-the water shot like a stream from a nozzle.
-
-We wanted a motion picture of our dash through the chute. But the
-location for the camera was hard to secure, for a sheer bank of rock
-or low wall prevented us from climbing out on the right side. We
-overcame this by landing on a little bank at the base of the wall and
-by dropping a boat down with a line to the head of the rapid where a
-break occurred in the wall. Jimmy was left with the camera, the boat
-was pulled back, and we prepared to run the rapid.
-
-We first had to pass between two square rocks rising eight feet above
-the water so close together that we could not use the oars; then, when
-past these, pull ten feet to the right in order to clear the large
-rock at the end of the main dam, or barrier, not more than twenty feet
-below. To pull down bow first and try to make the turn, would mean to
-smash broadside against this rock. It could only be done by dropping
-stern first, and pulling to the right under the protection of the
-first rocks; though it was doubtful if even this could be
-accomplished, the current was so swift. The _Defiance_ was ready
-first, the _Edith_ was to follow as closely as safety allowed.
-
-Almost before I knew it I was in the narrow channel, so close to the
-right rock that I had to ship that oar, and pull altogether on the
-left one. As soon as I was through I made a few quick strokes, but the
-current was too strong for me; and a corner of the stern struck a bang
-when I was almost clear. She paused as a wave rolled over the decks,
-then rose quickly; a side current caught the boat, whirling it around,
-and the bow struck. I was still pulling with all my might, but
-everything happened so quickly,--with the boat whirling first this
-way, then that,--that my efforts were almost useless. But after that
-second strike I did get in a few strokes, and pulled into the quiet
-pool below the line of boulders.
-
-Emery held his boat in better position than I had done, and it looked
-for a while as if he would make it. But the _Edith_ struck on the
-stern, much as mine had done. Then he pulled clear and joined me in
-the shelter of the large rock, as cool and smiling as if he had been
-rowing on a mill-pond. We were delighted to find that our boats had
-suffered no damage from the blows they had received. Striking on the
-ends as they did, the shock was distributed throughout the whole boat.
-
-This completed our run for that day, and we went into camp just below
-the "Falls." Emery painted the name _Edith_ on the bow of his boat, at
-this camp. The name was given in honour of his four-year-old daughter,
-waiting for us at the Grand Canyon. I remarked that as no one loved
-me, I would name my boat the _Defiance_. But I hesitated about putting
-this name on the bow. I would look rather foolish, I thought, if the
-_Defiance_ should be wrecked in the first bad rapid. So the
-christening of my boat was left until such time as should have earned
-the title, although she was constantly referred to as the _Defiance_.
-
-We remained until noon of the following day at Ashley Falls,
-exploring, repairing, and photographing this picturesque spot. The
-canyon walls here dropped down to beautiful, rolling foot-hills eight
-or nine hundred feet high tree covered as before but more open. The
-diversity of rocks and hills was alluring. There was work to be done
-and no pleasanter spot could be found in which to do it. Among other
-things that had to be looked after were some adjustments to the
-motion-picture camera--usually referred to by us as the M.P.C.--this
-delicate work always falling to Emery, for he alone could do it.
-
-There was much to interest us here. Major Powell reported finding the
-name "Ashley" painted under an overhanging rock on the left side of
-the river. Underneath was a date, rather indistinct, but found to have
-been 1825, by Dellenbaugh, after carefully tracing the career of
-Colonel Ashley who was responsible for the record. Accompanied by a
-number of trappers, he made the passage through this canyon at that
-early day. We found a trace of the record. There were three
-letters--A-s-h--the first two quite distinct, and underneath were
-black spots. It must have been pretty good paint to leave a trace
-after eighty-six years!
-
-Resuming our journey we passed into deep canyon again,--the deepest we
-had found up to this time,--with steeply sloping, verdure-covered
-walls about 2700 feet high. The rapids still continued. At one rapid
-the remark was made that "Two feet of water would cover two hundred
-rocks so that our boats would pass over them." But we did not have the
-two feet needed.
-
-We had previously been informed that some of these mountains were the
-hiding-places of men who were "wanted" in the three states which
-bordered near here. Some escaping prisoners had also been traced to
-the mountains in this direction; then all tracks had ceased. The few
-peaceable ranchers who lived in these mountains were much alarmed over
-these reports. We found one such rancher on the plateau above the
-canyon, whom we will call Johnson for convenience,--living in one of
-the upper canyons. He sold us some provisions. In return he asked us
-to help him swim some of his horses across the river. He said the high
-water had taken out his own boat. The horses were rounded up in a
-mountain-hidden valley and driven into the water ahead of the boat.
-After securing the horses, Johnson's welcome seemed to turn to
-suspicion and he questioned our reasons for being there, wanting to
-know what we could find in that wild country to interest us. Johnson's
-sons, of whom there were several, seemed to put in most of their time
-at hunting and trapping, never leaving the house without a gun. The
-cabin home looked like an arsenal, revolvers and guns hanging on all
-the walls--even his daughters being familiar with their use. Although
-we had been very well treated after all, Mrs. Johnson especially
-having been very kind to us, we felt just a little relieved when the
-Johnson ranch was left behind. We use, in fact, a fictious name, not
-caring to visit on them the suspicions we ourselves felt in return.
-
-Another morning passed in repairing the M.P. camera, and another
-afternoon's work was necessary to get us out of the walls and the
-rapids of Red Canyon. But on the evening of the 20th, we did get out,
-and pulled into an open country known as Brown's Park, one week after
-entering Flaming Gorge. It had not been very fast travelling; but we
-were through, and with no mishap more serious than a split board on
-the side of my boat. Under favourable conditions, and in experienced
-hands, this distance might have been covered in three days. But
-meanwhile, we were gaining a lot of experience.
-
-About the lower end of Red Canyon the river turned directly east,
-paralleling the northern boundary of Utah, and continued to flow in
-this general direction until it crossed into Colorado.
-
-On emerging from Red Canyon we spied a ranch house or log cabin close
-to the river. The doors were open and there were many tracks in the
-sand, so we thought some one must be about. On approaching the house,
-however, we found the place was deserted, but with furniture, books,
-and pictures piled on the floor in the utmost confusion, as if the
-occupants had left in a great hurry. This surmise afterward proved to
-be correct; for we learned that the rancher had been murdered for his
-money, his body having been found in a boat farther down the river.
-Suspicion pointed to an old employee who had been seen lurking near
-the place. He was traced to the railroad, over a hundred miles to the
-north; but made his escape and was never caught.
-
-We found Brown's Park, once known as Brown's Hole, to be a beautiful
-valley several miles in width, and thirty-five or forty miles in
-length. The upper end of the valley was rugged in places, with rocky
-hills two or three hundred feet high. To the south, a few miles away,
-were the mountains, a continuation of those we had come through. We
-saw many cattle scattered over some of these rocky hills, grazing on
-the bunch-grass. At one place our course led us through a little
-canyon about two miles long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet
-deep. This was Swallow Canyon--a name suggested by the many birds of
-that species which had covered the canyon's walls with their little
-clay nests. The openings of some of these nests were so small that it
-scarcely seemed possible for a bird to enter.
-
-The water was deep and quiet in this short canyon, and a hard wind
-blowing up the stream made it difficult for us to gain any headway. In
-this case, too, the forms of the boat were against us. With the keel
-removed and with their high sides catching the wind, they were carried
-back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put up with it for
-a while, for those very features would prove most valuable in the
-rough-water canyons which were to follow!
-
-Emerging from the canyon at last, we saw a ferry loaded with sheep
-crossing the stream. On the left shore was a large corral, also filled
-with sheep which a half dozen men were driving back and forth into
-different compartments. Later these men told us there were 2400 sheep
-in the flock. We took their word for it, making no attempt to count
-them. The foreman of the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and
-honey,--these two articles being a welcome addition to our list of
-supplies, which were beginning to show the effects of our voracious
-appetites.
-
-We found many other log cabins and ranches as we proceeded. Some of
-them were deserted; at others men were busily engaged in cutting hay
-or the wild grass that grew in the bottoms. The fragrance of new-mown
-hay was in the air. Young boys and women were among these busy
-workers, some of the women being seated on large harvesters, handling
-the horses with as much dexterity as any of the men.
-
-The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. We
-were hailed from the shore by some of the hay ranchers, it being a
-novel sight to them to see a river expedition. At one or two of these
-places we asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and were
-given evasive answers. Finally we were told that cattle rustlers from
-the mountains made it so hard for the ranchers in the valleys that
-there was nothing for them to do but get out. They told us, also, that
-we were fortunate to get away from Johnson's ranch with our valuables!
-Our former host, we were told, had committed many depredations and had
-served one term for cattle stealing. Officers, disguised as
-prospectors, had taken employment with him and helped him kill and
-skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands, having been
-partially burned and buried. On this evidence he was afterwards
-convicted.
-
-Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions of us, the sinister
-arsenal of guns and pistols, all was explained! Quite likely some of
-these weapons had been trained against us by the trappers on the
-chance that we were either officers of the law, or competitors in the
-horse-stealing industry. For that matter we were actually guilty of
-the latter count, for come to think of it, we ourselves had helped
-them steal eight horses and a colt!
-
-The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. It
-was all so different from anything seen above. There were great
-bottoms that gave evidence of having recently been overflooded, though
-now covered with cottonwood trees, gorgeous in their autumn foliage.
-We had often wondered where all the driftwood that floated down the
-Colorado came from; but after seeing those unnumbered acres of
-cottonwoods we ceased to wonder.
-
-There were many beaver slides on the banks; and in places, numberless
-trees had been felled by these industrious animals. On one or two
-occasions we narrowly escaped splitting the sides of our boats on
-snags of trees which the beavers had buried in the bottom of the
-stream. We saw no beaver dams on the river; they were not necessary,
-for deep, quiet pools existed everywhere in Brown's Park. We saw two
-beavers in this section. One of these rose, porpoise-like, to the top
-of the water, stared at us a moment, then brought his tail down with a
-resounding smack on the top of the water, and disappeared, to enter
-his home by the subterranean route, no doubt. The river was gradually
-losing its clear colour, for the sand-bars were beginning to "work
-out," or break, making the water quite roily. In some sections of
-Brown's Park we grounded on these sand-bars, making it necessary for
-us to get out into the water, pushing and pulling on the boats until
-deeper water was reached. Sometimes the deep water came when least
-expected, the sand-bars having a disconcerting way of dropping off
-abruptly on the downstream side. Jimmy stepped off the edge of one of
-these hidden ledges while working with a boat and was for some time in
-no condition to appreciate our ill-concealed mirth.
-
-Often we would be passing along on perfectly smooth water, when
-suddenly a turmoil would rise all about us as though a geyser had
-broken out below the surface. If we happened to be directly over it,
-the boat would be rocked back and forth for a while; then all would be
-peaceful again. This was most often caused by the ledges of sand,
-anywhere from three to ten feet high breaking down or falling forward
-as their bases were undermined. In a single night a bar of this kind
-will work upstream for a distance of several feet; then the sand will
-be carried down with the current to lodge again in some quiet pool,
-and again be carried on as before. This action gives rise to long
-lines of regular waves or swells extending for some distance down the
-stream. These are usually referred to as sand-waves. These waves
-increase in size in high water; and the monotonous thump, thump of the
-boat's bottom upon them is anything but pleasant, especially if one is
-trying to make fast time.
-
-So, with something new at every turn, we pulled lazily through Brown's
-Park, shooting at ducks and geese when we came near them, snapping our
-cameras when a picture presented itself, and observing the animal life
-along the stream.
-
-We stopped at one hay-ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line and
-chatted awhile with the workers. A pleasant-faced woman named Mrs.
-Chew asked us to deliver a message at a ranch a mile or two below.
-Here also was the post-office of Lodore, Colorado, located a short
-distance above the canyon of the same name. Mrs. Chew informed us that
-they had another ranch at the lower end of Lodore Canyon and asked us
-to look them up when we got through, remarking: "You may have trouble,
-you know. Two of my sons once tried it. They lost their boat, had to
-climb out, and nearly starved before they reached home."
-
-The post-office at the ranch, found as described, without another home
-in sight, was a welcome sight to us for several reasons. One reason
-was that it afforded shelter from a heavy downpour of rain that
-greeted us as we neared it, and a better reason still was, that it
-gave us a chance to write and mail some letters to those who would be
-most anxious to hear from us.
-
-Among the messages we mailed was a picture post-card of Coney Island
-at night. In some way this card had slipped between the leaves of a
-book that I had brought from the East. I sent it out, addressed to a
-friend who would understand the joke; writing underneath the picture,
-"We have an abundance of such scenery here." The young woman who had
-charge of the office looked at the card in amazement. It was evidently
-something new to her. She told us she had never been to the railroad,
-and that her brother took the mail out on horse-back to Steamboat,
-Colorado, 140 miles distant.
-
-The rain having ceased, we returned to our boats pausing to admire a
-rainbow that arched above the canyon in the mountains, toward which we
-were headed. We remarked, jokingly, to Jimmy that this was a good
-sign. He replied without smiling that he "hoped so." Jimmy's songs had
-long since ceased, and we suspected him of homesickness. With the
-exception of a short visit to some friends on a large ranch, Jimmy had
-never been away from his home in San Francisco. This present
-experience was quite a contrast, to be sure! We did what we could to
-keep him cheered up, but with little success. Jimmy had intimated that
-he would prefer to leave at the first opportunity to reach a railroad,
-and we willingly agreed to help him in every possible way. Emery and I
-also agreed between ourselves that we would not take any unnecessary
-risks with him; but would leave him out of the boats at all rapids, if
-there was any passage around them.
-
-The river had taken a sharp turn to the south soon after passing the
-post-office, heading directly towards the mountains. Camp was pitched
-just above the mouth of Lodore. This twenty-mile canyon bears a very
-unsavory reputation, having a descent of 425 feet in that short
-distance, the greater part of the fall occurring in a space of twelve
-miles. This would mean wild water somewhere!
-
-We were camped on a spot recently occupied by some engineers of the
-United States Conservation Department, who had been trying to
-determine if it was feasible to dam the river at this place. The plan
-was to flood the hole of Brown's Park and divert the water through the
-mountains by a tunnel to land suitable for cultivation and in
-addition, allow the muddy water to settle and so prevent the vast
-amount of silt from being washed on down, eventually to the mouth of
-the Colorado. The location seemed admirably suited for this stupendous
-project. But holes drilled beside the river failed to find bottom, as
-nothing but quicksand existed even at a depth of nearly three hundred
-feet; and without a strong foundation, such a dam would be utterly
-useless.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V
-
-
-
-THE BATTLE WITH LODORE
-
-Camp routine was hurriedly disposed of the next morning, Saturday,
-September the 23d. Everything was made snug beneath the hatches,
-except the two guns, which were too long to go under the decks, and
-had to be carried in the open cockpits. "Camp No. 13, at the head of
-Lodore," as it is entered in my journal, was soon hidden by a bend in
-the river. The open, sun-lit country, with its pleasant ranches and
-its grazing cattle, its rolling, gray, sage-covered hills and its wild
-grass and cottonwood-covered bottoms, was left behind, and we were
-back in the realm of the rock-walled canyon, and beetle-browed,
-frowning cliffs with pines and cedars clutching at the scanty ledges.
-
-We paused long enough to make a picture or two, with the hope that the
-photographic record would give to others some idea of the geological
-and scenic wonder--said to be the greatest known example of its
-kind--which lay before us. Here is an obstructing mountain raised
-directly in the river's path. Yet with no deviation whatever the
-stream has cut through the very centre of the peak! The walls are
-almost sheer, especially at the the bottom, and are quite close
-together at the top. A mile inside the mountain on the left or east
-side of the gorge is 2700 feet high. Geologists say that the river was
-here first and that the mountain was slowly raised in its pathway--so
-slowly that the river could saw away and maintain its old channel. The
-quicksand found below the present level would seem to indicate that
-the walls were once even higher than at present, and that a subsidence
-had taken place after the cutting.
-
-The river at the entrance of this rock-walled canyon was nothing
-alarming, four small rapids being passed without event. Then a fifth
-was reached that looked worse. The _Edith_ was lined down. This was
-hard work, and dangerous too, owing to the strength of the current and
-the many rocks; so I concluded that my own boat, the _Defiance_, must
-run the rapid. Jimmy went below, with a life-preserver on a rope.
-Emery stood beside the rapid with a camera and made a picture as I
-shot past him. Fortunately I got through without mishap. I refused to
-upset even to please my brother.
-
-We were beginning to think that Lodore was not so bad after all. Rapid
-followed rapid in quick succession, and all were run without trouble;
-then we came to a large one. It was Upper Disaster Falls; so named by
-Major Powell, for it was here that one of his boats was wrecked on his
-first voyage of exploration. This boat failed to make the landing
-above the rapid and was carried over. She struck a rock broadside,
-turned around and struck again, breaking the boat completely in two.
-This boat was built of 3/4-inch oak re�nforced with bulkheads. When
-this fact is taken into consideration, some idea may be had of the
-great power of these rapids. The three men who occupied the boat saved
-themselves by reaching an island a short distance below.
-
-This all happened on a stage of water much higher than the present
-one, so we did not let the occurrence influence us one way or the
-other, except to make us careful to land above the rapid. We found a
-very narrow channel between two submerged boulders, the water plunging
-and foaming for a short distance below, over many hidden rocks. Still,
-there was only one large rock near the lower end that we greatly
-feared, and by careful work that might be avoided.
-
-The _Edith_ went first and grazed the boulder slightly, but no harm
-was done as E.C. held his boat well in hand. I followed, and struck
-rocks at the same instant on both sides of the narrow channel with my
-oars. It will be remembered that we ran all these dangerous rapids
-facing downstream. The effect of this was to shoot the ends of both
-oars up past my face. The operator said that I made a grimace just as
-he took a picture of the scrimmage.
-
-We landed on the island below and talked of camping for the night, as
-it was getting late; but the island so rocky and inhospitable that we
-concluded to try the lower part of the rapid. This had no descent like
-the upper end; but it was very shallow, and we soon found ourselves on
-rocks, unable to proceed any farther. It took an hour of hard labour
-to work our heavy boats safely to the shore.
-
-We had been hoping for a rest the next day--Sunday--but the island was
-such a disagreeable place to camp that it seemed necessary to cross to
-the mainland at least. A coil of strong, pliable wire had been
-included in our material. Here was a chance to use it to advantage.
-The stream on the left side of the island could be waded, although it
-was very swift; and we managed to get the wire across and well
-fastened at both ends. Elevating the wire above the water with
-cross-sticks, our tent and camp material were run across on a pulley,
-and camp was pitched a hundred yards below, on the left shore of the
-river.
-
-There were fitful showers in the afternoon, and we rested from our
-labour, obtaining a great deal of comfort from our tent, which was put
-up here for the third time since leaving Green River City. Always,
-when the weather was clear, we slept in the open.
-
-Monday, the 25th, found us at the same camp. Having concluded that
-Disaster Falls was an ideal place for a moving picture, we sent the
-balance of the material across on the pulley and wire, making a
-picture of the operation; stopping often because it continued to
-shower. Between showers we resumed our work and picture making.
-
-The picture was to have been concluded with the operation of lining
-the boat across. E.C. stood on the shore about sixty feet away,
-working with the camera; Jimmy was on the island, paying out the rope;
-while I waded in the water, holding the bow of the boat as I worked
-her between the rocks. Having reached the end of the rope, I coiled it
-up, advising Jimmy to go up to a safe crossing and join my brother
-while I proceeded with the boat. All was going well, and I was nearing
-the shore, when I found myself suddenly carried off my feet into water
-beyond my depth, and drifting for the lower end of the rapid.
-Meanwhile I was holding to the bow of the boat, and calling lustily to
-my brother to save me. At first he did not notice that anything was
-wrong, as he was looking intently through the finder. Then he suddenly
-awoke to the fact that something was amiss, and came running down the
-boulder-strewn shore, but he could not help me, as we had neglected to
-leave a rope with him. Things were beginning to look pretty serious,
-when the boat stopped against a rock and I found myself once more with
-solid footing under me. It was too good a picture to miss; and I found
-the operator at the machine, turning the crank as I climbed out.
-
-We developed some films and plates that evening, securing some
-satisfactory results from these tests. It continued to rain all that
-night, with intermittent showers next morning. The rain made little
-difference to us, for we were in the water much of the following day
-as he boats were taken along the edge of another unrunnable rapid, a
-good companion rapid for the one just passed.
-
-This was Lower Disaster Falls, the first of many similar rapids we
-were to see, but this was one of the worst of its kind. The
-swift-rushing river found its channel blocked by the canyon wall on
-the right side, the cliff running at right angles to the course of the
-stream. The river, attacking the limestones, had cut a channel under
-the wall, then turned and ran with the wall, emerging about two
-hundred feet below. Standing on a rock and holding one end of a
-twenty-five foot string we threw a stone attached to the other end
-across to the opposite wall. The overhanging wall was within two feet
-of the rushing river; a higher stage of water would hide the cut
-completely from view. Think what would happen if a boat were carried
-against or under that wall! We thought of it many times as we
-carefully worked our boats along the shore.
-
-Between the delays of rain, with stops for picture making, portaging
-our material, and "lining" our boats, we spent almost three days in
-getting past the rapids called Upper and Lower Disaster Falls, with
-their combined fall of 50 feet in little more than half a mile. On the
-evening of September the 26th we camped almost within sight of this
-same place, at the base of a 3000-foot sugar-loaf mountain on the
-right, tree-covered from top to bottom.
-
-Things were going too easily for us, it seemed; but we were in for a
-few reverses. It stormed much of the night and still drizzled when we
-embarked on the following morning. The narrow canyon was gloomy and
-darkened with shreds of clouds drifting far below the rim. The first
-rapid was narrow, and contained some large boulders. The _Edith_ was
-caught on one of these and turned on her side, so that the water
-flowed in, filling the cockpit. The boat was taken off without
-difficulty, and bailed out. We found that the bulkheads failed to keep
-the water out of the hatches. Some material from the _Edith_ was
-transferred to the _Defiance_. A bed, in a protecting sack of rubber
-and canvas, was shoved under the seat and we proceeded.
-
-Less than an hour later I repeated my brother's performance, but I was
-not so fortunate as he. The _Defiance_ was carried against one rock as
-I tried to pull clear of another, and in an instant she was on her
-side, held by the rush of water. I caught the gunwale, and, climbing
-on to the rock that caused the disaster, I managed to catch the rope
-and held the boat. In the meantime Emery was in a whirlpool below,
-trying to land on the right side; but was having a difficult time of
-it. Jimmy stood on the shore unable to help. The bed was washed out of
-the boat and went bobbing over the waves, then before I knew what had
-happened, the rope was jerked from my hands and I was left stranded on
-my rock. Seeing this, Jimmy ran with all his might for a pool at the
-end of the rapid, bravely rescuing the boat and the bed as well, just
-as the _Edith_ was landed. A rope was soon thrown to me, after the
-inevitable picture was made. Then I jumped and was pulled to shore.
-
-On making an inventory we found that our guns were lost from the boat.
-Being too long to go under the hatches, they had been left in the
-cockpit. The _Defiance_ had an ugly rap on the bottom, where she
-struck a rock, the wood being smashed or jammed, but not broken out.
-Nearly all material in the two boats was wet, so we took everything
-out and piled it on a piece of canvas, spread out on the sand. We
-worked rapidly, for another storm had been threatening all the
-morning.
-
-We were engaged in putting up our little tent when a violent wind
-which swept up the canyon, followed by a downpour of rain interrupted
-our work; and if anything missed a soaking before, it certainly
-received it then. The sand was beaten into our cameras and everything
-was scattered helter-skelter over the shore. We were fortunate in only
-one respect. The wind was away from the river instead of toward it. We
-finally got the tent up, then threw everything into it in an
-indiscriminate pile, and waited for the storm to pass. Emery proposed
-that we do a song and dance just to show how good we felt; but any
-appearance of merriment was rather forced.
-
-Had the builders of the boats been there, we fear they would have had
-an uncomfortable half-hour; for nearly all this loss could have been
-avoided had our instructions regarding the hatch covers been followed.
-And for the sake of their saving a few dollars we had to suffer!
-
-The rain soon passed and we went to work, first starting a fire and
-getting a hurried lunch, for we had not eaten our noon meal, and it
-was then 4 P.M. We put up our dark-room tent, then went to work to
-find what was saved, and what was lost. We were surprised to find that
-all our small films and plates had escaped a soaking. Protected in tin
-and cardboard boxes, wrapped with adhesive tape, and covered with a
-coating of paraffine melted and poured over them, they had turned the
-water in nearly every instance. The motion-picture film was not so
-fortunate. The paraffine had worn off the tin boxes in spots, the
-water soaked through the tape in some instances, and entered to the
-film. One roll, tightly wrapped, became wet on the edges; the gelatine
-swelled and stuck to the other film, thus sealing the inner portion or
-picture part of the film, so that roll was saved.
-
-The motion-picture camera was filled with water, mud and sand; and the
-other cameras fared likewise. We cleaned them out as best we could,
-drying them over small alcohol lamp which we had included in our
-duffle. Our job seemed endless. Jimmy had retired early, for he could
-help us but little in this work. It rained again in torrents, and the
-wind howled about the tent. After midnight, as we still toiled, a
-land-slide, loosened by the soaking rains, thundered down the mountain
-side about a fourth of a mile below our camp. We hoped Jimmy would not
-hear it. We retired soon after this. Smaller slides followed at
-intervals, descending over the 3000-foot precipices. Thunder
-reverberated through the canyon, and altogether it was a night long to
-be remembered. These slides made one feel a little uncomfortable. "It
-would be most inconvenient," as we have heard some one say, "to wake
-in the morning and find ourselves wrapped up in a few tons of earth
-and rock."
-
-Emery woke me the next morning to report that the river had risen
-about six feet; and that my boat--rolled out on the sand but left
-untied--was just on the Point of going out with the water. It had
-proven fortunate for us all Emery was a light sleeper! There was no
-travelling this day, as the boat had to be repaired. Emery, being the
-ship's carpenter, set to work at once, while Jimmy and I stretched our
-ropes back and forth, and hung up the wet clothes. Then we built a
-number of fires underneath and soon had our belongings in a steam.
-Things were beginning to look cheerful again. The rain stopped, too,
-for a time at least.
-
-A little later Jimmy ran into camp with a fish which he had caught
-with his hands. It was of the kind commonly called the bony-tail or
-humpback or buffalo-fish, a peculiar species found in many of the
-rivers of the Southwest. It is distinguished by a small flat head with
-a hump directly behind it; the end of the body being round, very
-slender, and equipped with large tail-fins. This specimen was about
-sixteen inches long, the usual length for a full-grown fish of this
-species.
-
-Now for a fish story! On going down to the river we found a great many
-fish swimming in a small whirlpool, evidently trying to escape from
-the thick, slimy mud which was carried in the water. In a half-hour we
-secured fourteen fish, killing most of them with our oars. There were
-suckers and one catfish in the lot. You can judge for yourself how
-thick the water was, that such mudfishes as these should have been
-choked to helplessness. Our captured fish were given a bath in a
-bucket of rain-water, and we had a fish dinner.
-
-In the afternoon we made a test of the water from the river, and found
-that it contained 20 per cent of an alkaline silt. When we had to use
-this water, we bruised the leaf of a prickly pear cactus, and placed
-it in a bucket of water. This method, repeated two or three times,
-usually clears the muddiest water. We also dug holes in the sand at
-the side of the river. The water, filtering through the sand, was
-often clear enough to develop the tests we made with our films.
-
-Jimmy continued to feel downhearted; and this afternoon he told us his
-story. Our surmise about his being homesick was correct, but it was a
-little more than that. He had an invalid mother, it seemed, and, aided
-by an older brother, he had always looked after the needs of the
-family. When the proposition of making the river trip came up, serious
-objections were raised by the family; but when the transportation
-arrived he had determined to go, in spite of their objections. Now he
-feared that his mother would not live, or that we would be wrecked,
-and he would not know where to turn, or what to do. No wonder he felt
-blue!
-
-All we could do was to promise to help him leave the river at the very
-first opportunity. This would quite likely be at Jensen, Utah, still
-fifty miles farther downstream.
-
-It continued to rain by spells that night and the next morning. About
-11 A.M. we resumed our work on the river. A short distance below our
-camp we saw the land-slide which we heard the night before--tons of
-earth and shattered rock wrapped about the split and stripped trunks
-of a half-dozen pines. The slide was started by the dislodged section
-of a sheer wall close to the top of the 2700-foot cliff. We also saw a
-boat of crude construction, pulled above the high-water mark;
-evidently abandoned a great while before. Any person who had to climb
-the walls at that place had a hard job to tackle, although we could
-pick out breaks where it looked feasible; there were a few places
-behind us where it would be next to impossible. We had only gone over
-a few rapids when we found a long pool, with driftwood eddying
-upstream, and knew that our run for the day was over--the Triplet
-Rapids were ahead of us. We found this rapid to be about a fourth of a
-mile long, divided into three sections as its name indicated, and
-filled with great boulders at the base of a sheer cliff on the
-right--another unrunnable rapid.
-
-Taking the camp material from the boats, we carried it down and
-pitched our tent first of all, then, while Emery prepared supper,
-Jimmy and I carried the remaining duffle down to camp. One of the
-boats was lined down also. Then after supper we enjoyed the first rest
-we had taken for some time.
-
-Camp Ideal we called it, and it well deserved the name. At the bottom
-of a tree-covered precipice reaching a height of 2700 feet, was a
-strip of firm, level sand, tapering off with a slope down to the
-water, making a perfect landing and dooryard. A great mass of
-driftwood, piled up at the end of the rapid, furnished us with all
-fuel we needed with small effort on our part. Our tent was backed
-against a large rock, while other flat rocks near at hand made
-convenient shelves on which to lay our camp dishes and kettles. It
-started to drizzle again that night, but what cared we? With a roaring
-fire in front of the tent we all cleaned up for a change, sewed
-patches on our tattered garments, and, sitting on our beds, wrote the
-day's happenings in our journals. Then we crawled into our comfortable
-beds, and I was soon dreaming of my boyhood days when I "played
-hookey" from school and went fishing in a creek that emptied into the
-Allegheny River, or climbed its rocky banks; to be awakened by Jimmy
-crying out in his sleep, "There she goes over the rapids."
-
-Jimmy was soon informed that he and the boats were perfectly safe, and
-I was brought back to a realization of the fact that I was not going
-to get a "whaling" for going swimming in dog-days; but instead was
-holed up in Lodore Canyon, in the extreme northwestern corner of
-Colorado.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI
-
-
-
-HELL'S HALF MILE
-
-We began our work the next morning where we left off the night before
-by bringing the remaining boat down along the edge of the "Triplets."
-Then, while Emery cooked the breakfast, Jimmy and I "broke camp." The
-beds came first. The air had been released from the mattresses before
-we got up,--one way of saving time. A change of dry clothing was
-placed with each bed, and they were rolled as tightly as the two of us
-could do it, after which they were strapped, placed in a rubber sack,
-with a canvas sack over that, both these sacks being laced at the top.
-The tent--one of those so-called balloon silk compositions--made a
-very small roll; the dark-room tent, with its three plies of cloth,
-made the largest bundle of the lot. Everything had been taken from the
-boats, and made quite a pile of dunnage, when it was all collected in
-a pile ready for loading. After the dishes were washed they were
-packed in a box, the smoke-covered pots and pans being placed in a
-sack. Everything was sorted and piled before the loading commenced. An
-equal division of nearly everything was made, so that the loss of one
-boat and its cargo would only partially cripple the expedition. The
-photographic plates and films, in protecting canvas sacks, were first
-disposed of, being stored in the tin-lined hatches in the bow of the
-boats. Two of the smaller rolls containing bedding, or clothing; a
-sack of flour, and half of the cameras completed the loads for the
-forward compartments. Five or six tin and wooden boxes, filled with
-provisions, went into the large compartments under the stern. A box
-containing tools and hardware for the inevitable repairs, and the
-weightier provisions--such as canned milk and canned meats--went in
-first. This served as ballast for the boats. Then the other provisions
-followed, the remaining rolls of bedding and tents being squeezed in
-on top. This compartment, with careful packing, would hold as much as
-two ordinary-sized trunks, but squeezing it all in through the small
-hatchway, or opening on top, was not an easy job. One thing we guarded
-very carefully from this time on was a waterproofed sack containing
-sugar. The muddy water had entered the top of this sack in our upset,
-and a liquefied sugar, or brown-coloured syrup, was used in our coffee
-and on our breakfast foods after that. It gradually dried out, and our
-emptied cups would contain a sediment of mud in the bottom.
-
-Such was our morning routine, although it was not often that
-everything was taken from the boats, and it only happened in this case
-because we made a portage the night before.
-
-Our work was all undone an hour later, when we came to the sharp
-descent known as Hell's Half Mile, A section of a cliff had fallen
-from above, and was shattered into a hundred fragments, large and
-small; gigantic rocks were scattered on both shores and through the
-river bed, not an orderly array of rocks such as that found at Ashley
-Falls, but a riotous mass, looking as though they had been hurled from
-the sky above. The stripped trunk of an eight-foot tree, with roots
-extending over the river, had been deposited by a recent flood on top
-of the principal barrier. All this was found about fifty yards below
-the beginning of the most violent descent in Lodore Canyon. It would
-have been difficult enough without this last complication; the barrier
-seemed next to insurmountable, tired and handicapped with heavy boats
-as we were.
-
-With a weary sigh we dropped our boats to the head of the rapid and
-prepared to make the portage. Our previous work was as nothing to
-this. Rounded limestone boulders, hard as flint and covered with a
-thin slime of mud from the recent rise, caused us to slip and fall
-many times. Then we dragged ourselves and loads up the sloping walls.
-They were cut with gullies from the recent rains; low scraggy cedars
-caught at our loads, or tore our clothes, as we staggered along; the
-muddy earth stuck to our shoes, or caused our feet to slip from under
-us as we climbed, first two or three hundred feet above the water,
-then close to the river's edge. Three-fourths of a mile of such work
-brought us a level place below the rapid. It took nine loads to empty
-one boat.
-
-Darkness came on before our boats were emptied, so they were securely
-tied in quiet water at the head of the rapid, and left for the
-morning.
-
-The next day found Emery and me at work on the boats, while Jimmy was
-stationed on the shore with the motion-picture camera. This wild
-scene, with its score of shooting currents, was too good a view to
-miss. With life-preservers inflated and adjusted, Emery sat in the
-boat at the oars, pulling against the current, lessening the velocity
-with which the boat was carried down toward the main barrier, while I
-followed on the shore, holding a rope, and dropped him down, a little
-at a time, until the water became too rough and the rocks too
-numerous. All directions were given with signals; the human voice was
-of little avail in the turmoil. We kept the boats in the water as long
-as it was safe to do so, for it greatly lessened the hard work of a
-portage. With one end of the boat floating on the water, an ordinary
-lift would take the other end over a rock with insufficient water
-above it to float the boat. Then the boat was balanced on the rock,
-the opposite end was lifted, she was shoved forward and dropped in the
-water again and another threatening rock was passed. Foot by foot we
-fought our way, now on the shore, now waist deep in the water below
-some protecting boulder, threatened every moment by the whirling water
-that struggled to drag us into the torrent. The sand and water
-collecting in our clothes weighted us down; the chill of standing in
-the cold water numbed our limbs. Finally the barrier was reached and
-the boats were run out close to the end, and tied in a quiet pool,
-while we devised some method of getting them past or over this
-obstruction.
-
-Directly underneath and beyond the roots of the tree were large
-rounded boulders, covered with slippery mud. Past this barrier the
-full force of the water raced, to hurl itself and divide its current
-against another rock. It was useless to try to take a boat around the
-end of the rock. The boat's sides, three-eighths of an inch thick,
-would be crushed like a cardboard box. If lifted into the V-shaped
-groove, the weight of the boats would wedge them and crush their
-sides. Fortunately an upright log was found tightly wedged between
-these boulders. A strong limb, with one end resting on a rock
-opposite, was nailed to this log; a triangle of stout sticks, with the
-point down, was placed opposite this first limb, on the same level,
-and was fastened to the upright log with still another piece; and
-another difficulty was overcome.
-
-With a short rope fastened to the iron bar or hand-hold on the stern,
-this end was lifted on to the cross-piece, the bow sticking into the
-water at a sharp angle. The short rope was tied to the stump, so we
-would not lose that we had gained. The longer rope from the bow was
-thrown over the roots of the tree above, then we both pulled on the
-rope, until finally the bow was on a level with the stern. She was
-pulled forward, the ropes were loosened and the boat rested on the
-cross-pieces. The motion-picture camera was transferred so as to
-command a view of the lower side of the barrier, then the boat was
-carefully tilted, and slid forward, a little at a time, until she
-finally gained headway, nearly jerking the rope from our hands, and
-shot into the pool below.
-
-We enjoyed the wildest ride we had experienced up to this time in
-running the lower end of this rapid. The balance of the day was spent
-in the same camp below the rapid. Our tent was put up in a group of
-box elder trees,--the first trees of this species we had seen. Red
-cedar trees dotted the rocky slopes, while the larger pines became
-scarce at the river's edge, and gathered near the top of the canyon's
-walls. The dark red rocks near the bottom were covered with a light
-blue-tinted stratum of limestone, similar to the fallen rocks found in
-the rapid above. In one land-slide, evidently struck with some rolling
-rock, lay the body of a small deer. We saw many mountain sheep tracks,
-but failed to see the sheep. Many dead fish, their gills filled with
-the slimy mud from the recent rise, floated past us, or lay half
-buried in the mud. These things were noticed as we went about our
-duties, for we were too weary to do any exploring.
-
-The next morning, Monday, October the 2d saw us making arrangements
-for the final run that would take us out of Lodore Canyon. No doubt it
-was a beautiful and a wonderful place, but none of us seemed sorry to
-leave it behind. For ten days we had not had a single day entirely
-free from rain, and instead of having a chance to run rapids, it
-seemed as if we had spent an entire week in carrying our loads, or in
-lining our boats through the canyon. The canyon walls lost much of
-their precipitous character as we neared the end of the canyon.
-
-A short run took us over the few rapids that remained, and at a turn
-ahead we saw a 300-foot ridge, brilliantly tinted in many
-colours,--light and golden yellows, orange and red, purple and
-lavender,--and composed of numberless wafer-like layers of rock,
-uptilted, so that the broken ends looked like the spines of a gigantic
-fish's back. A sharp turn to the left soon brought us to the end of
-this ridge, close to the bottom of a smooth, sheer wall. Across a
-wide, level point of sand we could see a large stream, the Yampa
-River, flowing from the East to join its waters with those of the
-Green. This was the end of Lodore Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII
-
-
-
-JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN
-
-The Yampa, or Bear River, was a welcome sight to us in spite of its
-disagreeable whitish yellow, clay colour; quite different from the red
-water of the Green River. The new stream meant more water in the
-channel, something we needed badly, as our past tribulations showed.
-The recent rise on the Green had subsided a little, but we now had a
-much higher stage than when we entered Lodore. Quite likely the new
-conditions gave us six feet of water above the low water on which we
-had been travelling. Would it increase or diminish our dangers? We
-were willing, Emery and I, even anxious, to risk our chances on the
-higher water.
-
-Directly opposite the Yampa, the right shore of the Green went up
-sheer about 700 feet high, indeed it seemed to overhang a trifle. This
-had been named Echo Cliffs by Powell's party. The cliffs gave a
-remarkable echo, repeating seven words plainly when shouted from the
-edge of the Yampa a hundred yards away, and would doubtless repeat
-more if shouted from the farther shore of the Yampa. Echo Cliffs, we
-found, were in the form of a peninsula and terminated just below this
-point where we stood, the river doubling back on the other side of the
-cliff. On the left side of the river, the walls fell back, leaving a
-flat, level space of about twenty-five acres. Here was a little ranch
-of which Mrs. Chew had told us. The Chew ranch lay back from the river
-on top of the cliffs. We found no one at home here at this first
-ranch, but there was evidence of recent habitation. There were a few
-peach trees, and a small garden, while beyond this were two
-buildings,--little shacks in a dilapidated condition. The doors were
-off their hinges and leaned against the building, a few logs being
-placed against the doors. Past the dooryard, coming out of a small
-canyon above the ranch, ran a little brook; up this canyon was a
-trail, the outlet to the ranch above. We camped near the mouth of the
-stream.
-
-It had been agreed upon the night before, that we should endeavour to
-make arrangements to have Jimmy taken out on horseback over the
-mountains. Before looking for the ranch, however, we asked him if he
-did not wish to reconsider his decision to leave here. We pointed out
-that Jensen, Utah, was only fifty miles away, half that distance being
-in quiet water, and that the worst canyon was behind us. But he said
-he had enough of the river and preferred to see what could be done.
-While I busied myself about camp, he and Emery left for the ranch.
-
-About seven o'clock that evening they returned in great spirits. They
-had found the ranch without any trouble nearly three miles from our
-camp. Mrs. Chew was there and gave them a hearty welcome. She had
-often wondered what had become of us. She invited the boys to remain
-for supper, which they did. They talked over the matter of
-transportation for Jimmy. As luck would have it, Mrs. Chew was going
-to drive over to Jensen, and Vernal, Utah, in two days' time, and
-agreed to take Jimmy along.
-
-Early the next morning two boys, one about fourteen years old the
-other a little older, rode down from the ranch. Some of their horses
-were pastured across the river and they had come after these. After a
-short visit they got into the _Edith_ with Emery and prepared to cross
-over to the pasture, which was a mile or more downstream. They were
-soon out of our sight. Jimmy and I remained at the camp, taking
-pictures, packing his belongings, and finding many odd jobs to be
-done. In about three hours the boys returned with their horses. The
-horses were quite gentle, and they had no difficulty in swimming them
-across. A young colt, too feeble to swim, placed its fore feet on its
-mother's flanks and was ferried across in that way. Then they were
-driven over a narrow trail skirting the cliff, 300 feet above the
-river. No one, looking from the river, would have imagined that any
-trail, over which horses could be driven, existed.
-
-The boys informed us that we were expected at the ranch for dinner,
-and would listen to no refusal so up we went, although we would have
-to make a second trip that day. The view of the ranch was another of
-those wonderful scenic changes which we were to meet with everywhere
-in this region. The flat on which we stood was simply a pocket, shut
-in by the round-domed mountains, with a pass, or an opening, to the
-east side. A small stream ran down a mountain side, spreading over the
-rocks, and glistening in the sunlight. This same stream passed the
-ranch, and ran on down through the narrow canyon up which we had come.
-The ranch itself was refreshing. The buildings were new, some were
-under construction; but there was considerable ground under
-cultivation. Cattle were scattered up the valley, or dotted the rocky
-slopes below the mountains. A wild spot this, on the borderland of the
-three states. None but people of fortitude, or even of daring, would
-think of taking up a homestead in this secluded spot. The same rumours
-of the escaped prisoners had drifted in here. It was Mr. Chew who gave
-us the information we have previously quoted concerning the murdered
-man. He had found the body in the boat, in front of the post-office.
-He further stated that others in the mountains would not hesitate at
-anything to drive out those who were trying to improve a homestead as
-he was doing, and that it was a common event to find the carcasses of
-his own horses or cattle which had been ruthlessly slaughtered. This
-was the reason for putting the horses across the river. There they
-were safe, for none could approach them save by going past the ranch,
-or coming through Lodore Canyon.
-
-Mr. Chew also told us of the Snyders, who had lost their boat in upper
-Lodore Canyon, and of how he had given them a horse and provisions to
-aid them in reaching the settlements. This did not prevent the elder
-Snyder from coming back to trap the next year, much to Mr. Chew's
-disgust. He thought one experience should be enough for any man.
-
-While we were talking, a very old, bearded man rode in on a horse. He
-was Pat Lynch, the owner of the little ranch by the river. He was a
-real old-timer, having been in Brown's Park when Major Powell was
-surveying that section of the country. He told us that he had been
-hired to get some meat for the party, and had killed five mountain
-sheep. He was so old that he scarcely knew what he was talking about,
-rambling from one subject to another; and would have us listening with
-impatience to hear the end of some wonderful tale of the early days,
-when he would suddenly switch off on to an entirely different subject,
-leaving the first unfinished.
-
-In spite of his years he was quite active, having broken the horses on
-which he rode, bareback, without assistance. We were told that he
-placed a spring or trap gun in his houses at the river, ready to greet
-any prying marauder The last we saw of him he was on his way to the
-post-office, miles away, to draw his pension for service in the Civil
-War.
-
-Returning to the transportation of Jimmy, it was settled that the
-Chews were to leave early the next morning. They also agreed to take
-out our exposed films and plate for us--something we had not counted
-on, but too good a chance to lose. We all three returned to the boats
-and packed the stuff that was to go out; then went back to the ranch
-with Jimmy. It was late--after midnight--when we reached there, and we
-did not disturb any one. Jimmy's blankets were unrolled in the wagon,
-so there would be no question about his going out. He was to go to
-Jensen, or Vernal, and there await us, keeping our films until we
-arrived. We knew they were in good hands. It was with some difficulty
-that we found our way back to our camp. The trail was difficult and it
-was pitch dark. My boat had been taken down to where Emery left the
-_Edith_ when the horses were driven across, and this extra distance
-was added to our walk.
-
-We were laggard the next morning, and in no hurry to resume our work.
-We rearranged our loads in the boats; with one less man and
-considerable less baggage as well, they were lighter by far. Our
-chances looked much more favourable for an easier passage. Not only
-were these things in our favour, but in addition we felt that we had
-served our apprenticeship at navigation in rapid water, and we were
-just as capable of meeting the rapids to follow as if we had years of
-experience to our record. On summing up we found that the river had
-dropped 1000 feet since leaving Green River, Wyoming, and that 5000
-feet remained, to put us on a level with the ocean. Our difficulties
-would depend, of course, on how this fall was distributed. Most of the
-fall behind was found in Lodore and Red canyons. It was doubtful
-indeed if any section would have a more rapid fall than Lodore Canyon.
-
-There is a certain verse of wisdom which says that "Pride goeth before
-a fall," but perhaps it was just as well for us if we were a little
-bit elated by our past achievements as long as we had to go through
-with the balance of our self-imposed task. Confidence, in a proper
-degree, is a great help when real difficulties have to be surmounted.
-We were full of confidence that day when we pulled away about noon
-into Whirlpool Canyon, Whirlpool Canyon being next on the list. The
-camp we were about to leave was directly opposite Lodore Canyon, where
-it ran against the upended cliff. The gorgeous colours were the same
-as those on the opposite side, and, to a certain degree, were also
-found in Whirlpool Canyon.
-
-Our two and a half hours' dash through the fourteen miles of rapid
-water in Whirlpool Canyon put us in a joyful frame of mind. Rapid
-after rapid was left behind us without a pause in our rowing, with
-only a hasty survey standing on the deck of the boats before going
-over. Others that were free from rocks were rowed in bow first, the
-big waves breaking over our boats and ourselves. We bailed while
-drifting in the quiet stretches, then got ready for the next rapids.
-Two large rapids only were looked over from the shore and these were
-run in the same manner. We could hardly believe it was true when we
-emerged from the mountain so quickly into a little flat park or valley
-sheltered in the hills. This was Island or Rainbow Park, the latter
-name being suggested by the brilliant colouring of the rocks, in the
-mountains to our left. Perhaps the form of the rocks themselves helped
-a little, for here was one end of the rainbow of rock which began on
-the other side of the mountains. Jagged-edged canyons looking almost
-as if their sides had been rent asunder came out of these mountains.
-There was very little dark red here except away on top, 2300 feet
-above, where a covering of pines made a soft background for
-light-cream and gorgeous yellow-coloured pinnacles, or rocky walls of
-pink and purple and delicate shades of various hues. Large cottonwoods
-appeared again along the river banks, in brilliant autumn colours,
-adding to the beauties of the scene. Back from the river, to the west,
-stretched the level park, well covered with bunch-grass on which some
-cattle grazed, an occasional small prickly pear cactus, and the ever
-present, pungent sage. Verdure-covered islands dotted the course of
-the stream, which was quiet and sluggish, doubling back and forth like
-a serpent over many a useless mile. Nine miles of rowing brought us
-back to a point about three miles from the mouth of Whirlpool Canyon;
-where the river again enters the mountain, deliberately choosing this
-course to one, unobstructed for several miles, to the right.
-
-The next gorge was Split Mountain Canyon, so named because the stream
-divided the ridge length-wise, from one end to the other. It was
-short, only nine miles long, with a depth of 2700 feet in the centre
-of the canyon. Three miles of the nine were put behind us before we
-camped that evening. These were run in the same manner as the rapids
-of Whirlpool, scarcely pausing to look them over, but these rapids
-were bigger, much bigger. One we thought was just formed or at least
-increased in size by a great slide of rock that had fallen since the
-recent rains. We just escaped trouble in this rapid, both boats going
-over a large rock with a great cresting wave below, and followed by a
-very rough rapid. Emery was standing on top of a fifteen-foot rock
-below the rapid when I went over, and for a few moments could see
-nothing of my boat, hardly believing it possible that I had come
-through without a scratch. These rapids with the high water looked
-more like rapids we had seen in the Grand Canyon, and were very unlike
-the shallow water of a week previous. We had only travelled a half
-day, but felt as if it had been a very complete day when we camped at
-the foot of a rock slide on the right, just above another big rapid.
-
-On Thursday, October 5, Camp No. 20 was left behind. The rapid below
-the camp was big, big enough for a moving picture, so we took each
-other in turns as we ran the rapid. More rapids followed, but these
-were not so large. A few sharp-pointed spires of tinted rock lifted
-above us a thousand feet or more. Framed in with the branches of the
-near-by cottonwood trees, they made a charming picture. Less than
-three hours brought us to the end of Split Mountain Canyon, and the
-last bad water we were to have for some time. Just before leaving the
-canyon, we came to some curious grottos, or alcoves, under the rock
-walls on the left shore. The river has cut into these until they
-overhang, some of them twenty-five feet or over. In one of these was a
-beaver lying on a pile of floating sticks. Although we passed quite
-close, the beaver never moved, and we did not molest it.
-
-Another shower greeted us as we emerged into the Uinta Valley as it is
-called by the Ute Indians. This valley is eighty-seven miles long. It
-did not have the fertileness of Brown's Park, being raised in bare
-rolling hills, runnelled and gullied by the elements. The water was
-quiet here, and hard rowing was necessary to make any progress. We had
-gone about seven miles when we spied a large placer dredge close to
-the river. To the uninitiated this dredge would look much like a
-dredging steamboat out of water, but digging its own channel, which is
-what it really does.
-
-Great beds of gravel lay on either side of the river and placer gold
-in large or small quantities, but usually the latter is likely to
-exist in these beds. When a dredge like the one found here is to be
-installed, an opening is made in the river's bank leading to an
-excavation which has been made, then a large flatboat is floated in
-this. The dredging machinery is on this float, as well as most of the
-machinery through which the gravel is passed accompanied by a stream
-of water; then with quicksilver and rockers of various designs, the
-gold is separated from the gravel and sand.
-
-Numerous small buildings were standing near the dredge, but the
-buildings were empty, and the dredge lay idle. We saw many fresh
-tracks of men and horses aid were welcomed by a sleek, well-fed cat,
-but found the place was deserted. All buildings were open and in one
-was a telephone. We were anxious to hear just where we were, so we
-used the telephone and explained what we wanted to know. The "Central"
-informed us that we were about nine miles from Jensen, so we returned
-to the boats and pulled with a will through a land that was no longer
-barren, but with cozy ranch houses, surrounded by rows of stately
-poplars, bending with the wind, for it was storming in earnest now.
-About six o'clock that evening we caught sight of the top of the
-Jensen bridge; then, as we neared the village, the sun broke through
-the pall of cloud and mist, and a rainbow appeared in the sky above,
-and was mirrored in the swollen stream, rainbow and replica combined
-nearly completing the wondrous arc. There was a small inn beside the
-bridge, and arrangements were made for staying there that night. We
-were told that Jim and Mrs. Chew had passed through Jensen about four
-hours before we arrived. They had left word that they would go on
-through to Vernal, fifteen miles distant from the river.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII
-
-
-
-AN INLAND EXCURSION
-
-Jensen was a small village with two stores and a post-office. A few
-scattered houses completed the village proper, but prosperous-looking
-ranches spread out on the lowland for two or three miles in all
-directions on the west side of the river. Avenues of poplar trees,
-fruit trees, and fields of alfalfa gave these ranches a different
-appearance from any others we had passed.
-
-We found some mail awaiting us at the post-office, and were soon
-busily engaged in reading the news from home. We conversed awhile with
-the few people at the hotel, then retired, but first made arrangements
-for saddle horses for the ride to Vernal.
-
-Next morning we found two spirited animals, saddled and waiting for
-us. We had some misgivings concerning these horses, but were assured
-that they were "all right." A group of grinning cowboys and ranch
-hands craning their necks from a barn, a hundred yards distant, rather
-inclined us to think that perhaps our informant might be mistaken.
-Nothing is more amusing to these men of the range than to see a man
-thrown from his horse, and a horse that is "all right" for one of them
-might be anything else to persons such as we who never rode anything
-except gentle horses, and rode those indifferently. We mounted quickly
-though, trying to appear unconcerned. The horses, much to our relief,
-behaved quite well, Emery's mount rearing back on his hind legs but
-not bucking. After that, all went smoothly.
-
-Leaving the irrigated ranches on the bottom lands, we ascended a low,
-rolling mesa, composed of gravel and clay, unwatered and unfertile,
-from which we caught occasional glimpses of the mountains and the
-gorge from which we had emerged, their brilliant colours softened and
-beautified by that swimming blue haze which belongs to this plateau
-region. Then we rode down into the beautiful Ashley Valley, watered by
-Ashley Creek, a good-sized stream even after it was used to irrigate
-all the country for miles above. The valley was several miles wide.
-The stream emptied into the river about a mile below Jensen. All parts
-of the valley were under cultivation. It is famous for its splendid
-deciduous fruits, apples, pears, peaches; splendid both in appearance
-and flavour. It excelled not only in fruits, however, but in all
-products of the field as well. "Vernal honey," which is marketed far
-and near, has a reputation for fine flavour wherever it is known. A
-thick growth of the bee-blossom or bee-weed crowded the road sides and
-hugged the fences. The fragrance of the flower can easily be noticed
-in the sweetness of the honey. The pity of it was that bushels of
-fruit lay rotting on the ground, for there were no transportation
-facilities, the nearest railroad being 90 miles distant. There were
-stock ranches too, with blooded stock in the fence-enclosed fields.
-Some of the splendid horses paced along beside us on the other side of
-the fence. We heard the rippling song of some meadow-larks this day,
-the only birds of this species we remember having seen on the Western
-plateaus.
-
-All these ranches were laid out in true Mormon style, that is, squared
-off in sections, fenced, and planted with shade-trees before being
-worked. The roads are usually wide and the streets exceptionally so.
-Except in the business streets, a large garden usually surrounds the
-home building, each family endeavouring to raise all their own
-vegetables, fruits, and poultry. They usually succeed.
-
-The shade trees about Vernal were Lombardy poplars. They attained a
-height that would give ample shade under most conditions, and too much
-when we were there, for the roads were very muddy, although they had
-dried in all other sections. Nearing Vernal, we passed Nathan
-Galloway's home, a cozy place set back some distance from the road. We
-had hoped to meet Galloway and have an opportunity of talking over his
-experiences with him, but found he was absent on a hunting trip, in
-fact was up in the mountains we had come through.
-
-On nearing the town we were greeted by a busy scene. Numerous wagons
-and horses stood in squares reserved for that purpose, or were tied to
-hitching posts in front of the many stores. Ranchers and their
-families were everywhere in evidence; there were numerous prospectors
-in their high-topped boots just returning from the mountains, and oil
-men in similar garb, muddy from head to foot. Later we learned that
-oil had recently been discovered about forty miles distant, this fact
-accounting for much of the activity.
-
-The town itself was a surprise; we found it to be very much up-to-date
-considering its isolated position. Two of the streets were paved and
-oiled and were supplied with drinking fountains. There were two
-prosperous looking banks, two well-stocked and up-to-date drug stores,
-several mercantile stores, and many others, all busy. Many of the
-buildings were of brick; all were substantial.
-
-Near a hotel we observed a group of men surrounding some one who was
-evidently keeping them interested. On approaching them we found it was
-Jimmy, giving a graphic description of some of our difficulties. His
-story was not finished, for he saw us and ran to greet us, as pleased
-to see us as we were to see him. He had little idea we would be along
-for two or three days and naturally was much surprised.
-
-On entering the hotel we were greeted by an old Grand Canyon friend, a
-civil engineer named Duff, who with a crew of men had been mapping the
-mountains near Whirlpool Canyon. You can imagine that it was a
-gratifying surprise to all concerned to find we were not altogether
-among strangers, though they were as hospitable as strangers could be.
-The hotel was a lively place that night. There was some musical talent
-among Duff's men, and Duff himself was an artist on the piano. Many of
-the young people of the town had dropped in that evening, as some one
-had passed the word that there might be an impromptu entertainment at
-the hotel. There was. Duff played and the boys sang. Jimmy was himself
-again and added his rich baritone. The town itself was not without
-musical talent, and altogether it was a restful change for us.
-
-Perhaps we should have felt even better if we had been dressed
-differently, for we wore much the same clothes as those in which we
-did our work on the river--a woollen shirt and overalls. Besides,
-neither Emery nor I had shaved since starting, and it is quite likely
-that we looked just a little uncouth. Appearances count for little
-with these people in the little-settled districts, and it is a common
-enough sight to them to see men dressed as we were. They did
-everything they could to make us feel at ease. As one person remarked,
-"The wealthiest cattle man, or the owner of the richest mine in the
-country, usually looks worse than all others after a month on the
-range or in the hills."
-
-If wealth were indicated on an inverse ratio to one's good appearance,
-we should have been very wealthy indeed. We felt as if it would take
-us a week to get rested and lost little time in getting to bed when
-the party broke up. We imagine most of the residents of Vernal were
-Mormons. It is part of their creed to give "the stranger within their
-gates" a cordial welcome. This however, was accorded to us, not only
-among the Mormons, but in every section of our journey on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
-
-The following day was a busy one. Arrangements had been made with a
-local photographer to get the use of his dark room, and we proceeded
-to develop all plates and many of our films. These were then to be
-packed and shipped out. We were informed at the local express office,
-that it might be some time before they would go, as the recent rains
-had been very bad in Colorado and had washed out most of the bridges.
-
-Vernal had passenger transportation to the railway--a branch of the D.
-& R.G. running north into Colorado--by automobile, the route lying
-across the Green and also across the White River, a tributary to the
-Green. A steel structure had been washed away on the White River,
-making it impossible to get through to the station. The high water
-below here must have been a flood, judging from all reports. About ten
-bridges, large and small, were reported as being washed away on
-numerous branch streams leading into the Green River. Fortunately
-Vernal had another means of communication. This was a stage running
-southwest from Vernal, over 125 miles of rough road to Price,
-Utah--Price being a station on the main line of the D. & R.G.
-
-Jimmy concluded that he would take this road, in preference to the
-uncertainties of the other route, and noon that day found him on board
-the stage. He promised to write to us, and was anxious to hear of our
-success, but remarked that when he once got home he would "never leave
-San Francisco again." There was a final hand clasp, a cheer from the
-small group of men, and the stage drove away with Jimmy, a happy boy
-indeed.
-
-Our work on the developing progressed well, and with very satisfying
-results on the whole, and that evening found us with all plates packed
-ready for shipment to our home. The moving-picture film was also
-packed and shipped to be developed at once. This was quite a load off
-our minds.
-
-The following day we prepared to depart, but did not leave until the
-afternoon. Then, with promises to let them know the outcome of our
-venture, we parted from our friends and rode back to Jensen.
-
-We planned on leaving the following morning. The river had fallen one
-foot since we had landed, and we were anxious to have the benefit of
-the high water. We were told that it was six feet above the low-water
-stage of two weeks before.
-
-On Monday, October the 9th, after loading our boat with a new stock of
-provisions,--in which was included few jars of honey, and a few dozen
-of eggs, packed in sawdust,--we began what might be called the second
-stage of our journey; the 175-mile run to Blake or Green River, Utah,
-a little west of south from Jensen. Ten miles below Jensen was a ferry
-used by the auto and wagons. Here also was a ranch house, with a
-number of people in the yard. We were invited to land and did so. They
-had been informed by telephone of our coming and were looking for us;
-indeed they had even prepared dinner for us, hoping we would reach
-there in time. Not knowing all this, we had eaten our cold lunch half
-an hour before. The women were busy preserving fruits and garden
-truck, and insisted on us taking two or three jars along. This was a
-welcome change to the dried fruit, which was one of our principal
-foods. These people made the usual request--"Drop us a post card if
-you get through."
-
-The memory of these people that we met on this journey will linger
-with us as long as we live. They were always anxious to help us or
-cheer us on our way.
-
-We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at work with a team and
-scoop shovel, the method being to scoop up the gravel and sand, then
-dump it in an iron car. This was then pulled by the horses to the top
-of a derrick up a sloping track and dumped. A stream of water pumped
-up from the river mixed with the gravel, the entire mass descended a
-long zigzagging chute. We paused a few minutes only and did not
-examine the complicated process of separating the mineral from the
-gravel. This dredge had been recently installed. We camped early, half
-a mile below the dredge.
-
-Emery had been feeling poorly all this day. He blamed his
-indisposition to having eaten too many good things when in Vernal--a
-break in training, as it were. This was our excuse for a short run
-that day. I played nurse and gave him some simple remedy from the
-little supply that we carried; and, after he was in his sleeping bag,
-I filled some hot-water bags for the first time on the trip, and soon
-had him feeling quite comfortable.
-
-A hard wind came up that night, and a little rain fell. I had a busy
-half-hour keeping our camp from being blown away. The storm was of
-short duration, and all was soon quiet again. On the following morning
-Emery felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with him and I
-wondered if he would ever stop. Towards evening, after a long pull, we
-neared the reservation of the Uinta Utes, and saw a few Indians camped
-away from the river. Here, again, were the cottonwood bottoms, banked
-by the barren, gravelly hills. We had been informed that there was a
-settlement called Ouray, some distance down the river, and we were
-anxious to reach it before night. But the river was sluggish, with
-devious and twisting channels, and it was dark when we finally landed
-at the Ouray ferry.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX
-
-
-
-CANYON OF DESOLATION
-
-Ouray, Utah, consisted of a large store to supply the wants of the
-Indians and ranchers, a small hotel, and a few dwellings. The agency
-proper was located some distance up the Uinta River, which stream
-emptied into the Green, just below Ouray.
-
-Supper was taken at the hotel, after which we visited a young man in
-charge of the store, looking over his curios and listening to tales of
-his life here among these Indians. They were peaceable enough now, but
-in years gone by were a danger to be reckoned with. We slept in our
-own beds close to our boats by the river.
-
-The following morning, when we were ready to leave, a small crowd
-gathered, a few Indians among them. Most of the Indians were big, fat,
-and sleepy-looking. Apparently they enjoyed the care of the
-government. A mile below we passed several squaws and numerous
-children under some trees, while on a high mound stood a lone buck
-Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without a single movement that
-we could see. He still stood there as we passed from sight a mile
-below. It might be interesting if one could know just what was in his
-mind as he watched us.
-
-A mile below the Uinta River, which entered on the west, we passed
-another stream, the White River, entering from the east, the two
-streams adding considerable water to the Green River. We passed
-another idle dredge, also some mineral workings in tunnels, and saw
-two men camped on the shore beside them. We saw numerous Indian
-carvings on the rocks, but judged they were recent because horses
-figured in most of them. In all the open country the river was fringed
-with large cottonwood trees, alders and willow thickets. A number of
-islands followed, one of them very symmetrical in shape, with
-cottonwood trees in the centre, while around the edge ran a fringe of
-bushes looking almost like a trimmed hedge. The autumn colouring added
-to its beauty. The hedge, as we called it, was dark red, brown,
-yellow, and green; the cottonwoods were a light yellow. After we had
-passed this island, a deer, confused by our voices, jumped into the
-river fifty yards behind us, leaping and swimming as he made for the
-shore. We had no gun, but Emery had the moving-picture camera at hand,
-and turned it on the deer. The hour was late, however, and we had
-little hopes of its success as a picture. The country back from the
-river stretched in rolling, barren hills 200 or 300 feet high--a
-continuation of the Bad Lands of Utah, which lay off to the west.
-
-With the next day's travel the hills lost some of their barren
-appearance. Some cattle were seen early in the afternoon of the
-following day. We passed a cattle man working at a ferry, who had just
-taken some stock across, which other men had driven on ahead. He was
-busy, so we did not interrupt him, merely calling to him from the
-boats, drifting meanwhile with the current. Soon we saw him riding
-down the shore and waited for him to catch up. He invited us to camp
-with him that evening, remarking that he had "just killed a beef." We
-thanked him, but declined, as it was early and we had only travelled a
-short distance that day. We chatted awhile, and he told us to look out
-for rapids ahead. He was rather surprised when he learned that we had
-started at Green River, Wyoming, and had already come through a few
-rapids.
-
-"Where are you going to stop?" he then asked.
-
-On being told that our destination was Needles, California, he threw
-up his hands with an expressive gesture, then added soberly, "Well,
-boys, I sure wish you luck," and rode back to his camp.
-
-We had difficulty in making a suitable landing that evening, as the
-high water had deposited great quantities of black mud over
-everything, making it very disagreeable when we left the boats. We
-finally found a place with less mud to wade through than on most of
-the banks seen, and tied up to the roots of a tree.
-
-While lying in our beds that night looking at the starlit sky--such a
-sky as is found only on these high plateaus--we discovered a comet
-directly above us. An astronomer would have enjoyed our opportunities
-for observing the heavens. No doubt this comet had been heralded far
-and wide, but we doubt if any one saw it to better advantage than did
-we.
-
-Later, some coyotes, possibly in chase of a rabbit, gave vent to their
-yodeling cry, and awakened us from a sound sleep. They were in a
-little lateral canyon, which magnified and gave a weird, organ-like
-echo to their calls long after the coyotes themselves had passed from
-hearing.
-
-The nights were getting warmer as we travelled south, but not so warm
-that we were bothered with insects. The same reason accounted for the
-absence of snakes or scorpions, for no doubt there were plenty of both
-in warm weather in this dry country. When there was no wind, the
-silence of the nights was impressive, with no sound save the lapping
-of the water against the banks. Sometimes a bird in the trees above
-would start up with a twitter, then quiet down again. On occasions the
-air chambers in our boats would contract on cooling off, making a
-noise like the boom of a distant gun, every little sound being
-magnified by the utter stillness of the night.
-
-There were other times when it was not so quiet. Hundreds of birds,
-geese, ducks and mud-hens had been seen the last few days. Also there
-were occasional cranes and herons, over a thousand miles from their
-breeding place at the mouth of the Colorado. As dusk settled, we would
-see these birds abandon their feeding in the mud, and line up on the
-shore, or on an island, and go to sleep. Occasionally one of these
-birds would start up out of a sound sleep with an unearthly squawk.
-Possibly an otter had interrupted its dreams, or a fox had pounced on
-one as it slept. It may be that it was only a bad dream of these
-enemies that caused their fright, but whatever it was, that first call
-would start up the entire flock and they would circle in confusion
-like a stampeded herd of cattle, their discordant cries putting an end
-to the stillness of the night. Finally they would settle down in a new
-spot, and all would be quiet once more.
-
-We saw a few birds that were strangers to us,--water birds which we
-imagined belonged to the salt water rather than the inland streams,
-making a little excursion, perhaps, away from their accustomed haunts.
-One type we saw on two occasions, much like a gull, but smaller, pure
-white as far as we could tell, soaring in graceful flight above the
-river.
-
-Camp No. 26 was close to the beginning of a new canyon. The country
-had been changing in appearance from rather flat plains to small bare
-hills, gradually increasing in height with smooth, rounded sides, and
-going up to a point, usually of a dirty clay colour, with little
-vegetation of any kind on them. The river for miles past had swept in
-long graceful curves, the hills being close to the river on the
-outside of the curve, leaving a big flat on the inside. This flat
-gradually sloped back to hills of an equal height to those opposite.
-Then the curve would reverse, and the same conditions would be met
-with again, but on opposite sides from the previous bend. After
-passing a creek the evening before, the hills became higher, and from
-our camp we could see the first place where they came close on both
-sides to the river. We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered
-canyons were behind us and from now on we would be hemmed in by the
-great eroded canyons of the Southwest. We were sorry to leave those
-others behind, and could easily understand why Major Powell had named
-this Desolation Canyon.
-
-As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic shapes, as
-is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation. There was a hard rock
-near the top in places which overhung a softer formation. This would
-erode, giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others were
-surmounted by square towers and these were capped by a border of
-little squares, making the whole look much like a castle on the Rhine.
-For half a day we found no rapids, but pulled away on a good current.
-The walls gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a few trees
-cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were lashed together and
-lunch was eaten as we drifted. We covered about three miles in this
-way, taking in the scenery as we passed. We saw a great stone arch, or
-natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our right, and wondered
-if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our lunch was no more than
-finished when the first rapid was heard ahead of us. Quickly unlashing
-our boats, we prepared for strenuous work. Friday the 13th proved to
-be a lucky day; thirteen large rapids and thirteen small ones were
-placed behind us before we camped at Rock Creek--a splashing, laughing
-mountain stream, no doubt containing trout.
-
-The following morning we found there was a little ranch house below
-us, but, though we called from our boats, no one came out. We wondered
-how any one could reach this out-of-the-way place, as a road would be
-almost an impossibility. Later we found a well-constructed trail on
-the right-hand side all the way through the canyon. We saw a great
-many cattle travelling this trail. Some were drinking at the river
-when we swept into view. Our boats filled them with alarm, and they
-scrambled for the hillsides, looking after us with frightened
-expressions as we left them to the rear.
-
-We put in a full day at running rapids, one after another, until
-fifteen large ones were passed, no count being kept of the smaller
-ones. Some of these rapids resembled dams from six to twelve feet
-high, with the water falling abruptly over a steep slope. Others were
-long and rough, with swift water in places. Above one of these we had
-landed, then found we could get a much better view from the opposite
-shore. Emery crossed and landed, I followed. We had been having heavy
-winds all day. When crossing here I was caught by a sudden gust of
-wind and carried to the head of the rapid. I heard Emery call, "Look
-out for the big rock!" then over I went. The wind and water together
-had turned my boat sideways, and try as I would I could not get it
-turned around. I saw the rock Emery referred to straight ahead of me.
-It was about fifteen feet square and about fourteen feet from the
-shore, with a powerful current shooting between the rock and the
-shore. It seemed as if I must strike the rock broadside, and I ceased
-my struggle, but held out an oar with both hands, hoping to break the
-blow. But it never came. The water struck this rock with great force,
-then rebounded, and actually kept me from even touching the rock with
-the oar, but it caught the boat and shot it through the narrow
-channel, bow first, as neatly as it could possibly be done, then,
-turned the boat around again as I scrambled to regain my hold on both
-oars. No other rocks threatened however, and besides filling the
-cockpit with water, no damage was done.
-
-Emery had no desire to follow my passage and crossed back to the other
-side. Shooting over the upper end of the rapid, his boat ran up on a
-rounded rock, the stern sticking high in the air; it paused a moment,
-the current slowly turning it around as if on a pivot, and the boat
-slid off; then down he came lurching and plunging, but with no more
-difficulty. Many times in such places as these we saw the advantage of
-our flat-bottomed boats over one with a keel, for these would surely
-be upset when running up on such a rock.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X
-
-
-
-HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN
-
-The appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed entirely in the lower
-end. Instead of a straight canyon without a break, we were surrounded
-by mountain peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side canyon between
-them and with little level parks at the end of the canyons beside the
-river. The tops were pine-covered; cedars clung to the rocky slopes.
-Some of these peaks were not unlike the formations of the Grand
-Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red colouring was once
-more found in the rocks.
-
-These peaks were gradually dropping down in height; and at one open
-section, with alfalfa and hay fields on gently sloping hillsides, we
-found a small ranch, the buildings being set back from the river. We
-concluded to call and found three men, the rancher and two young
-cowboys, at work in a blacksmith shop. Emery had forgotten to remove
-his life-preserver, and the men looked at him with some astonishment,
-as he was still soaking wet from the splashing waves of the last
-rapid.
-
-When I joined him he was explaining that no one had been drowned, and
-that we were merely making an excursion down the river. Mr. McPherson,
-the rancher, we learned, owned all the cattle seen up the river. The
-little cabin at our last camp was a sort of headquarters for his
-cowboys. The cattle were just being driven from the mountains before
-the snows came, and were to be wintered here in the canyons. Some of
-these cattle were much above the usual grade of range cattle, being
-thoroughbreds, although most of them ran loose on the range. This
-ranch had recently lost a valuable bull which had been killed by a
-bear up in the mountains--not unlike similar conflicts in more
-civilized sections of the country. McPherson camped on this bear's
-trail for several days and nights before he finally hung his pelt on a
-tree. He was a large cinnamon-coloured grizzly. Four other bears had
-been killed this same year, in these mountains.
-
-McPherson's home had burned down a short time before our visit, and
-his family had removed to Green River, Utah. A number of tents were
-erected, neatly boarded up, and we were informed that one of these was
-reserved for company, so we need not think of going any farther that
-day. These men, while absolutely fearless in the saddle, over these
-rough mountain trails, had "no use for the river" they told us; in
-fact, we found this was the usual attitude of the cattle men wherever
-we met them. McPherson's respect for the river was not without reason,
-as his father, with two others, had been drowned while making a
-crossing in a light boat near this point, some years before. Some
-accident occurred, possibly the breaking of a rowlock, and they were
-carried into a rapid. McPherson's men found it necessary to cross
-their cattle back and forth, but always took the wise precaution to
-have on some life-preservers. The cork preservers hung in the
-blacksmith shop, where they could easily be reached at a moment's
-notice.
-
-Desolation Canyon, with a slight breaking down of the walls for a
-short distance only, gave place to Gray Canyon below the McPherson
-Ranch. A good sized mountain stream, part of which irrigated the ranch
-above, found its way through this division. We had been told that more
-rapids lay ahead of us in Gray Canyon, but they were not so numerous
-in our next day's travel. What we did find were usually large, but we
-ran them all without difficulty. About noon we met five men in a boat,
-rowing up the stream in a long, still stretch. They told us they were
-working on a dam, a mile or two below. They followed us down to see us
-make the passage through the rapid which lay above their camp. The
-rapid was long and rocky, having a seventeen-foot fall in a half mile.
-We picked our channel by standing up in the boat before entering the
-rapid and were soon at the bottom with no worse mishap than bumping a
-rock or two rather lightly. We had bailed out and were tying our
-boats, when the men came panting down the hill up which they had
-climbed to see us make this plunge. A number of men were at work here,
-but this being Sunday, most of them had gone to Green River, Utah,
-twenty-one miles distant.
-
-Among the little crowd who came down to see us resume our rowing was a
-lady and a little girl who lived in a rock building, near the other
-buildings erected for the working-men. Emery showed the child a
-picture of his four-year-old daughter, Edith, with her mother--a
-picture he always carried in a note-book. Then he had her get in the
-boat with him, and we made a photograph of them. They were very good
-friends before we left.
-
-In a few hours we emerged from the low-walled canyon into a level
-country. A large butte, perhaps 700 feet high, stood out by itself, a
-mile from the main cliffs. This was Gunnison Butte, an old landmark
-near the Gunnison trail. We were anxious to reach Blake or Green
-River, Utah, not many miles below, that evening; but we failed to make
-it. There were several rapids, some of them quite large, and we had
-run them all when we came to a low dam that obstructed our passage,
-While looking it over, seeing how best to make a portage, a young man
-whom we had just seen remarked: "Well, boys, you had better tie up and
-I will help you in the morning."
-
-It was 5.30 then, and we were still six miles from Green River, so we
-took his advice and camped. On seeing our sleeping bags, tightly
-strapped and making rather small roll, he remarked: "Well, you fellows
-are not Mormons; I can tell by the size of your beds!"
-
-Our new friend gave the name of Wolverton. There was another man named
-Wilson who owned a ranch just below the dam. Both of these men were
-much interested in our experiences. Wolverton had considerable
-knowledge of the river and of boats; very little persuasion would have
-been necessary to have had him for a companion on the balance of our
-journey. But we had made up our minds to make it alone, now, as it
-looked feasible. Both Wilson and Wolverton knew the country below
-Green River, Utah, having made surveys through much of the surrounding
-territory. Wolverton said we must surely see his father, who lived
-down the river and who was an enthusiast on motor boats. A few
-minutes' work the next morning sufficed to get our boats over the dam.
-The dam was constructed of loose rock and piles, chinked with brush
-and covered with sloping planks,--just a small dam to raise the water
-for irrigation purposes. Much of the water ran through the canal; in
-places the planks were dry, in others some water ran over. The boats,
-being unloaded were pulled up on these planks, then slid into the
-water below. Wilson had a large water wheel for irrigation purposes,
-the first of several such wheels which we were to see this day. These
-wheels, twenty feet or more in height,--with slender metal buckets
-each holding gallons of water, fastened at intervals on either
-side,--were placed in a swift current, anchored on the shore to stout
-piles, or erected over mill-races cut in the banks. There they
-revolved, the buckets filling and emptying automatically, the water
-running off in troughs above the level of the river back to the
-fertile soil. Some of these wheels had ingenious floating arrangements
-whereby they accommodated themselves to the different stages of a
-rising or falling river. We took a few pictures of Wilson's place
-before leaving. He informed us that he had telephoned to certain
-people in Green River who would help us in various ways. Two hours'
-rowing, past many pretty little ranches, brought us to the railroad
-bridge, a grateful sight to us. A pumping plant stood beside the
-bridge under charge of Captain Yokey, one of Wilson's friends. Yokey
-owned a large motor boat, which was tied up to the shore. Our boats
-were left in his charge while we went up to the town, a mile distant.
-Another of Wilson's friends met us, and secured a dark room for us so
-that we could do a little developing and we prepared for work on the
-following day.
-
-That night a newspaper reporter hunted us out, anxious for a story. We
-gave him what we had, making light of our previous difficulties, which
-were exciting enough at times; but owing to the comparatively small
-size of the stream, we seldom thought our lives were in any great
-danger. The papers made the most of these things, and the stories that
-came out had little semblance to our original statements. We have
-since learned that no matter how much one minimizes such things, they
-are seldom published as reported.
-
-We put in a busy day unpacking new films and plates developing all
-films from the smaller cameras and sending these home. A new stock of
-provisions had to be purchased, enough for one month at least, for
-there was no chance of securing supplies until we reached our canyon
-home, about 425 miles below.
-
-We had a valuable addition to our cargo in two metal boxes that had
-been shipped here, as it was not possible to get them before leaving
-Wyoming. These cases or trunks were sent from England, and were
-water-tight, if not waterproof, there being a slight difference. Well
-constructed, with rubber gaskets and heavy clamps, every possible
-precaution had been taken, it seemed, to exclude the water and still
-render them easy of access. They were about thirty inches long,
-fifteen wide, and twelve high, just the thing for our photographic
-material. Up to this time everything had to be kept under the deck
-when in bad water. These boxes were placed in the open section in
-front of us, and were thoroughly fastened to the ribs to prevent loss,
-ready to be opened or closed in a moment, quite a convenience when
-pictures had to be taken hurriedly.
-
-The following day we went over the boats, caulking few leaks. The
-bottoms of the boats were considerably the worse for wear, owing to
-our difficulties in the first canyons. We got some thin oak strips and
-nailed them on the bottom to help protect them, when portaging.
-Sliding the boats on the scouring sand and rough-surfaced rock was
-hard on the half-inch boards on the bottom of the boats. This work was
-all completed that day, and everything was ready for the next plunge.
-
-In passing the station, we noticed the elevation above sea-level was
-placed at 4085 feet, and remembered that Green River, Wyoming, was
-6080 feet, showing that our descent in the past 425 miles had been
-close to 2000 feet. We had not found it necessary to line or portage
-any rapids since leaving Lodore Canyon; we were hopeful that our good
-luck would continue.
-
-Nothing was to be feared from what remained of the Green River, 120
-miles or more, for motor boats made the journey to its junction with
-the Grand, and we were told even ascended the Grand for some distance.
-Below this junction was the Colorado River, a different stream from
-the one we were still to navigate.
-
-Before leaving, we ate a final hearty breakfast at the boarding-house
-where we had been taking our meals. A number of young men, clerks in
-some of the business houses here, were among the boarders. The
-landlady a whole-souled German woman and an excellent cook, was
-greatly worried over their small appetites, thinking it was a
-reflection on her table. She remarked that she hoped we had good
-appetites, and I am sure she had no complaint to make so far as we
-were concerned. We had never stinted ourselves when on the river, but
-the change and the rest seemed to give us an abnormal appetite that
-could not be satisfied, and we would simply quit eating because we
-were ashamed to eat more. Less than half an hour after one of these
-big meals, I was surprised to see my brother in a restaurant with a
-sheepish grin on his face, and with a good-sized lunch before him.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI
-
-
-
-WONDERS OF EROSION
-
-_Thursday, October the 19th_. We embarked again with two of our
-new-found friends on board as passengers for a short ride, their
-intention being to hunt as they walked back. They left us at a ranch
-beside the San Rafael River, a small stream entering from the west.
-They left some mail with us to be delivered to Mr. Wolverton, whose
-son we had met above. About 20 miles below Green River we reached his
-home. Judging by a number of boats--both motor and row boats--tied to
-his landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man. After
-glancing over his mail, he asked how we had come and was interested
-when he learned that we were making a boating trip. He was decidedly
-interested when he saw the boats and learned that we were going to our
-home in the Grand Canyon. His first impression was that we were merely
-making a little pleasure trip on the quiet water.
-
-Going carefully over the boats, he remarked that they met with his
-approval with one exception. They seemed to be a little bit short for
-the heavy rapids of the Colorado, he thought. He agreed that our
-experience in the upper rapids had been good training, but said there
-was no comparison in the rapids. We would have a river ten times as
-great as in Lodore to contend with; and in numerous places, for short
-distances, the descent was as abrupt as anything we had seen on the
-Green. Wolverton was personally acquainted with a number of the men
-who had made the river trip, and, with the one exception of Major
-Powell's expeditions, had met all the parties who had successfully
-navigated its waters. This not only included Galloway's and Stone's
-respective expeditions, which had made the entire trip, but included
-two other expeditions which began at Green River, Utah, and had gone
-through the canyons of the Colorado.[4] These were the Brown-Stanton
-expedition, which made a railroad survey through the canyons of the
-Colorado; and another commonly known as the Russell-Monnette
-expedition, two of the party making the complete trip, arriving at
-Needles after a voyage filled with adventure and many narrow escapes.
-Mr. Wolverton remarked that every one knew of those who had navigated
-the entire series of canyons, but that few people knew of those who
-had been unsuccessful. He knew of seven parties that had failed to get
-through Cataract Canyon's forty-one miles of rapids, with their boats,
-most of them never being heard of again.
-
-These unsuccessful parties were often miners or prospectors who wished
-to get into the comparatively flat country which began about fifty
-miles below the Junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. Here lay
-Glen Canyon, with 150 miles of quiet water. Nothing need be feared in
-this, or in the 120 miles of good boating from Green River, Utah, to
-the junction. Between these two points, however, lay Cataract Canyon,
-beginning at the junction of the two rivers. Judging by its unsavory
-record, Cataract Canyon was something to be feared.
-
-Among these parties who had made short trips on the river was one
-composed of two men. Phil Foote was a gambler, stage robber, and bad
-man in general. He had broken out of jail in Salt Lake City and,
-accompanied by another of similar character, stole a boat at Green
-River, Utah, and proceeded down the river. Soon after entering
-Cataract Canyon, they lost their boat and provisions. Finding a tent
-which had been washed down the river, they tore it into strips and
-constructed a raft out driftwood, tying the logs together with the
-strips of canvas. Days of hardship followed, and starvation stared
-them in the face; until finally Foote's partner gave up, said he would
-drown himself. With an oath Foote drew his revolver, saying he had
-enough of such cowardice and would save him the trouble. His companion
-then begged for his life, saying he would stick to the end, and they
-finally got through to the Hite ranch, which lay a short distance
-below. They were taken care of here, and terminated their voyage a
-short distance beyond, going out over land. Foote was afterwards shot
-and killed while holding up a stage in Nevada.
-
-The Hite ranch also proved to be a place of refuge for others, the
-sole survivors of two other parties who were wrecked, one person
-escaping on each occasion. Hite's ranch, and Lee's Ferry, 140 miles
-below Hite, had mail service. We had left instructions at the
-post-office to forward our mail to one or the other of these points.
-These were also the only places on our 425-mile run to Bright Angel
-Trail where we could expect to see any people, so we were informed. We
-were about to descend into what is, possibly, the least inhabited
-portion of the United States of America.
-
-A party of civil engineers working here, joined us that evening at
-Wolverton's home. A young man in the party asked us if we would
-consent to carry a letter through with us and mail it at our
-destination. He thought it would be an interesting souvenir for the
-person to whom it was addressed. We agreed to do our best, but would
-not guarantee delivery. The next morning two letters were given us to
-mail, and were accepted with this one reservation. Before leaving Mr.
-Wolverton showed us his motor boat with much pardonable pride. On this
-boat he sometimes took small parties down to the beginning of the
-Colorado River, and up the Grand, a round trip of three hundred miles
-or more. The boat had never been taken down the Colorado for the
-simple reason that the rapids began almost immediately below the
-junction.
-
-Wolverton, while he had never been through the rapids in a boat, had
-followed the river on foot for several miles and was thoroughly
-familiar with their nature. On parting he remarked,
-
-"Well, boys, you are going to tackle a mighty hard proposition, but
-I'm sure you can make it if you are only careful. But look out and go
-easy."
-
-Wolverton was no novice, speaking from much experience in bad water,
-and we were greatly impressed by what he had to say.
-
-Five uneventful days were spent in Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons,
-through which the Green peacefully completed its rather violent
-descent. In the upper end we usually found rough water in the canyons
-and quiet water in the open sections. Here at least were two canyons,
-varying from 300 feet at their beginning to 1300 in depth, both
-without a rapid. The first of these was Labyrinth Canyon, so named
-from its elaborately winding course as well as its wonderful intricate
-system of dry, lateral canyons, and its reproduction in rock of
-architectural forms, castles, arches, and grottos; even animals and
-people were represented in every varying form.
-
-Our Sunday camp was beside what might be called a serpentine curve or
-series of loops in the river. This was at the centre of what is known
-as the Double Bow Knot, three rounded loops, very symmetrical in form,
-with an almost circular formation of flat-topped rock, a mile or more
-in diameter in the centre of each loop. A narrow neck of rock connects
-these formations to the main mesa, all being on the same level, about
-700 feet above the river. The upper half of the rock walls was sheer;
-below was a steep boulder-covered slope. The centre formation is the
-largest and most perfect, being nearly two miles in diameter and
-almost round; so much so, that a very few minutes are necessary to
-climb over the narrow neck which connects this formation to the mesa.
-It took 45 minutes of hard rowing on a good current to take us around
-this one loop. The neck is being rapidly eroded, two hundred feet
-having disappeared from the top, and at some distant day will
-doubtless disappear entirely, making a short cut for the river, and
-will leave a rounded island of rock standing seven hundred feet above
-the river. A bird's-eye view of the three loops would compare well in
-shape to the little mechanical contrivance known as the "eye" in the
-combination of "hook and eye." All women and many men will get a clear
-idea the shape of the Double Bow Knot from this comparison.
-
-We recorded an interesting experiment with the thermometer at this
-camp, showing a great variety of temperatures, unbelievable almost to
-one who knows nothing of conditions in these semi-arid plateaus. A
-little ice had formed the night before. Under a clear sky the next day
-at noon, our thermometer recorded 54 degrees in the shade, but ran up
-to 102 degrees in the sun. At the same time the water in the river was
-52 degrees Far. The effect of being deluged in ice-cold waves, then
-running into deep sunless canyons with a cold wind sweeping down from
-the snow on top, can be easier imagined than described. This is what
-we could expect to meet later.
-
-The colouring of the rocks varied greatly in many localities, a light
-red predominating. In some places the red rock was capped by a gray,
-flint-like limestone; in others this had disappeared, but underneath
-the red were regular strata of various-coloured rocks, pink, brown,
-light yellow, even blue and green being found in two or three
-sections.
-
-The forms of erosion were as varied as the rock itself, each
-different-coloured rock stratum presenting a different surface. In one
-place the surface was broken into rounded forms like the backs of a
-herd of elephants. In others we saw reproductions of images, carved by
-the drifting sands--a Diana, with uplifted arm, as large as the
-Goddess of Liberty; a Billiken on a throne with a hundred worshippers
-bowed around. Covered with nature-made ruins and magnificent rock
-structures, as this section is, it is not entirely without utility. It
-is a grazing country. Great numbers of contented cattle, white-faced,
-with red and white, or black and white patches of colour on their
-well-filled hides, were found in the open spaces between the
-sheer-walled cliffs. Dusty, well-beaten trails led down through these
-wide canyons, trails which undoubtedly gained the top of the level,
-rocky plateau a few miles back from the river. As is usual in a cattle
-country at the end of the summer season, the bunch-grass, close to the
-water supply--which in this case happened to the river--was nibbled
-close to the roots. The cattle only came here to drink, then travelled
-many miles, no doubt, to the better grazing on the upper plateaus. The
-sage, always gray, was grayer still, with dust raised by many passing
-herds. There was a band of range horses too, those splendid wild-eyed
-animals with kingly bearing, and wind-blown tails and manes, lean like
-a race-horse, strong-muscled and tough-sinewed, pawing and neighing,
-half defiant and half afraid of the sight of men, the only thing alive
-to which they pay tribute.
-
-It is a never ending source of wonder, to those unacquainted with the
-semi-arid country, how these animals can exist in a land which, to
-them, seems utterly destitute and barren. To many such, a meadow
-carpeted with blue grass or timothy is the only pasture on which
-grazing horses or grazing cattle can exist; the dried-out looking
-tufts of bunch-grass, scattered here and there or sheltered at the
-roots of the sage, mean nothing; the grama-grass hidden in the
-grease-wood is unnoticed or mistaken for a weed.
-
-But if the land was bare of verdure, the rock saved it from being
-monotonous. Varied in colour, the red rock predominated--blood-red at
-mid-day, orange-tinted at sunset, with gauze-like purple shadows, and
-with the delicate blue outlines always found in the Western distances;
-such a land could never be called uninteresting.
-
-The banks of the stream, here in the open, were always green. From an
-elevation they appeared like two emerald bands through a land of red,
-bordering a stream the tint of the aged pottery found along its
-shores. We were continually finding new trees and strange shrubs.
-Beside the cottonwoods and the willows there was an occasional
-wild-cherry tree; in the shrubs were the service-berry, and the
-squaw-berry, with sticky, acid-tasting fruit. The cacti were small,
-and excepting the prickly pear were confined nearly altogether to a
-small "pin-cushion" cactus, growing a little larger as we travelled
-south. And always in the mornings when out of the deep canyons the
-moist, pungent odour of the sage greeted our nostrils. It is
-inseparable from the West. There is no stuffy germ-laden air there,
-out in the sage; one is glad to live, simply to breathe it in and
-exhale and breathe again.
-
-In Stillwater Canyon the walls ran up to 1300 feet in height, a narrow
-canyon, with precipitous sides. Occasionally we could see great
-columns of rock standing on top of the mesa. Late one evening we saw
-some small cliff dwellings several hundred feet above the river, and a
-few crude ladders leaning against the cliff below the dwellings. A
-suitable camp could not be made here, or we would have stopped to
-examine them. The shores were slippery with mud and quicksands, and
-there was no fire-wood in sight. From here to the end of the canyons
-we would have to depend almost entirely on the drift-piles for
-fire-wood.
-
-A landing was finally made where a section of a cliff had toppled from
-above, affording a solid footing leading up to the higher bank. We
-judged from our maps that we were within a very few miles of the
-Colorado River. Here some footprints and signs of an old boat landing,
-apparently about a week old, were seen in the sand. This surprised us
-somewhat, as we had heard of no one coming down ahead of us.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII
-
-
-
-COULD WE SUCCEED?
-
-An hour or two at the oars the next morning sufficed to bring us to
-the junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. We tied up our boats,
-and prepared to climb out on top, as we had a desire to see the view
-from above. A mile back on the Green we had noticed a sort of canyon
-or slope breaking down on the west side, affording a chance to reach
-the top. Loading ourselves with a light lunch, a full canteen, and our
-smaller cameras, we returned to this point and proceeded to climb out.
-Powell's second expedition had climbed out at this same place;
-Wolverton had also mentioned the fact that he had been out; so we were
-quite sure of a successful attempt before we made the climb.
-
-The walk close to the river, over rocks and along narrow ledges, was
-hard work; the climb out was even more so. The contour maps which we
-carried credited these walls with 1300 feet height. If we had any
-doubt concerning the accuracy of this, it disappeared before we
-finally reached the top. What we saw, however, was worth all the
-discomfort we had undergone. Close the top, three branches of dry,
-rock-bottomed gullies carved from a gritty, homogeneous sandstone,
-spread out from the slope we had been climbing. These were less
-precipitous. Taking the extreme left-hand gully, we found the climb to
-the top much easier. At the very end we found an irregular hole a few
-feet in diameter not a cave, but an opening left between some immense
-rocks, touching at the top, seemingly rolled together.
-
-Gazing down through this opening, we were amazed to find that we were
-directly above the Colorado itself. It was so confusing at first that
-we had to climb to the very top to see which river it was, I
-contending that it was the Green, until satisfied that I was mistaken.
-The view from the top was overwhelming, and words can hardly describe
-what we saw, or how we were affected by it.
-
-We found ourselves on top of an irregular plateau of solid rock, with
-no earth or vegetation save a few little bushes and some very small
-cedars in cracks in the rocks. Branching canyons, three or four
-hundred feet in depth, and great fissures ran down in this rock at
-intervals. Some were dark and crooked, and the bottom could not be
-seen. Between these cracks, the rock rounded like elephants backs
-sloping steeply on either side. Some could be crossed, some could not.
-Others resembled a "maze," the puzzle being how to get from one point
-to another a few away. The rock was a sandstone and presented a rough
-surface affording a good hold, so there was little danger of slipping.
-We usually sat down and "inched" way to the edge of the cracks,
-jumping across to little ledges when possible, always helping each
-other.
-
-The rock at the very edge of the main canyon overhung, in places 75 to
-100 feet, and the great mass of gigantic boulders--sections of
-shattered cliffs--on the steep slope near the river gave evidence of a
-continual breaking away of these immense rocks.
-
-To the north, across the canyon up which we had climbed, were a great
-number of smooth formations, from one hundred to four hundred feet
-high, rounded on top in domes, reminding one of Bagdad and tales from
-the Arabian Nights. "The Land of Standing Rocks," the Utes call it.
-The rock on which we stood was light gray or nearly white; the river
-walls at the base for a thousand feet above the river were dark red or
-chocolate-brown; while the tops of the formations above this level
-were a beautiful light red tint.
-
-But there were other wonders. On the south side of the Colorado's
-gorge, miles away, were great spires, pointing heavenward, singly and
-in groups, looking like a city of churches. Beyond the spires were the
-Blue Mountains, to the east the hazy LaSalle range, and nearest of all
-on the west just north of the Colorado lay the snow-covered peaks of
-the Henry Mountains. Directly below us was the Colorado River, muddy,
-swirllng, and forbidding. A mile away boomed a rapid, beyond that was
-another, then the river was lost to view.
-
-Standing on the brink of all this desolation, it is small wonder if we
-recalled the accounts of the disasters which had overtaken so many
-others in the canyon below us. Many who had escaped the water had
-climbed out on to this death trap, as it had proven to be for them,
-some to perish of thirst and starvation, a few to stagger into the
-ranch below the canyon, a week or more after they had escaped from the
-water. Small wonder that some of these had lost their reason. We could
-only conjecture at the fate of the party whose wrecked boat had been
-found by the Stone expedition, a few miles below this place, with
-their tracks still fresh in the sand. No trace of them was ever found.
-
-For the first time it began to dawn on us that we might have tackled a
-job beyond our power to complete. Most of the parties which had safely
-completed the trip were composed of several men, adding much to the
-safety of the expedition, as a whole. Others had boats much lighter
-than ours, a great help in many respects. Speaking for myself, I was
-just a little faint-hearted, and not a little overawed as we prepared
-to return to the boats.
-
-While returning, we saw evidences of ancient Indians--some broken
-arrow-heads, and pottery also, and a small cliff ruin under a shelving
-rock.
-
-What could an Indian find here to interest him! We had found neither
-bird, nor rabbit; not even a lizard in the Land of Standing Rocks.
-Perhaps they were sun worshippers, and wanted an unobstructed view of
-the eastern sky. That at least could be had, in unrivalled grandeur,
-here above the Rio Colorado.
-
-The shadows were beginning to lengthen when we finally reached our
-boats at the junction. Camp was made under a large weeping willow
-tree, the only tree of its kind we remembered having seen on the
-journey.
-
-While Emery prepared a hasty meal I made a few arrangements for
-embarking on the Colorado River the next morning. We were prepared to
-bid farewell to the Green River--the stream that had served us so
-well. In spite of our trials, even in the upper canyons, we had found
-much enjoyment in our passage through its strange and beautiful
-surroundings.
-
-From a scenic point of view the canyons of the Green River, with their
-wonderful rock formations and stupendous gorges, are second only to
-those of the Colorado itself. It is strange they are so little known,
-when one considers the comparative ease with which these canyons on
-the lower end can be reached. Some day perhaps, surfeited
-globe-trotters, after having tired of commonplace scenery and foreign
-lands, will learn what a wonderful region this is, here on the lower
-end of the Green River.
-
-Then no doubt, Wolverton, or others with similar outfits, will find a
-steady stream of sight-seers anxious to take the motor boat ride down
-to this point, and up to Moab, Utah, a little Mormon town on the Grand
-River. A short ride by automobile from Moab to the D. & R.C. railway
-would complete a most wonderful journey; then the transcontinental
-journey could be resumed.
-
-So I mused, as I contrived an arrangement of iron hooks and oak sticks
-to hold on a hatch cover, from which all the thumb screws had been
-lost. More than likely my dream of a line of sight-seeing motor boats
-will be long deferred; or they may even meet the fate of Brown's and
-Stanton's plans for a railroad down these gorges.
-
-As a reminder of the fate which overtakes so many of our feeble plans,
-we found a record of Stanton's survey on a fallen boulder, an
-inscription reading "A 81 + 50. Sta. D.C.C. & P.R.R.," the
-abbreviations standing for Denver, Colorado Canyons, and Pacific
-Railroad. It is possible that the hands that chiselled the inscription
-belonged to one of the three men who were afterwards drowned in Marble
-Canyon.
-
-Emery--being very practical--interrupted my revery and plans for
-future sight-seers by announcing supper. The meal was limited in
-variety, but generous in quantity, and consisted of a dried-beef stew,
-fried potatoes and cocoa. A satisfied interior soon dispelled all our
-previous apprehensiveness. We decided not to run our rapids before we
-came to them.
-
-The water still gave indications of being higher than low-water mark,
-although it was falling fast on the Green River. Each morning, for
-three days previous to our arrival at the junction, we would find the
-water about six inches lower than the stage of the evening before.
-Strange to say, we gained on the water with each day's rowing, until
-we had almost overtaken the stage of water we had lost during the
-night. More than likely we would have all the water we needed under
-the new conditions which were before us.
-
-Beginning with the Colorado River, we made our journals much more
-complete in some ways, giving all the large rapids a number and
-describing many of them in detail. This was done, not only for our own
-satisfaction, but for the purpose of comparison with others who had
-gone through, for many of these rapids have histories.
-
-It was often a question, when on the Green River, where to draw the
-line when counting a rapid; this was less difficult when on the
-Colorado. While the descent was about the same as in some of the
-rapids above, the increased volume of water made them look and act
-decidedly different. We drew the line, when counting a rapid, at a
-descent having a decided agitation of the water, hidden rocks, or
-swift descent and with an eddy or whirlpool below. Major Powell
-considered that many of these drops in the next canyon were above the
-ordinary rapid, hence the name, Cataract Canyon.
-
-At one of the camps below Green River, Utah boat had been christened
-the _Defiance_, by painting the name on the bow. After leaving the
-Green we referred to the boats by their respective names, being in the
-_Edith_, I in the _Defiance_.
-
-
-[Illustration: THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO RIVERS. THE GRAND RIVER IS ON
-THE RIGHT. NOTE BOATS.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIII
-
-
-
-A COMPANION VOYAGER
-
-THURSDAY morning, October the 26th, found Emery feeling very poorly,
-but insisting on going ahead with our day's work, so Camp No. 34 was
-soon behind us. We were embarked on a new stream, flowing
-west-southwest, with a body of water ten times the size of that which
-we had found in the upper canyons of the Green. Our sixteen-foot boats
-looked quite small when compared with the united currents of the Green
-and the Grand rivers. The Colorado River must have been about 350 feet
-wide here just below the junction, with a three-mile current, and
-possibly twenty-five feet deep, although this is only a guess. The
-Grand River appeared to be the higher of the two streams, and had a
-decidedly red colour, as though a recent storm was being carried down
-its gorges; while the colour of the Green was more of a coffee
-colour--coffee with a little cream in it.
-
-A fourth of a mile below the junction the two currents began to mix,
-with a great ado about it, with small whirlpools and swift eddies, and
-sudden outbursts from beneath as though a strangled current was
-struggling to escape from the weight which overpowered it. The boats
-were twisted this way and that, and hard rowing was necessary to carry
-us down to the steadied current, and to the first rapid, which we
-could hear when yet far above it.
-
-Soon we were running rapids again, and getting a lot of sport out of
-it. There were some rocks, but there was water enough so that these
-could be avoided. If one channel did not suit us, we took another, and
-although we were drenched in every rapid, and the cockpit was half
-filled each time, it was not cold enough to cause us any great
-discomfort, and we bailed out at the end of each rapid, then hurried
-on to tackle the next. Each of these rapids was from a fourth to a
-third of a mile in length. The average was at least one big rapid to
-the mile. When No. 5 was reached we paused a little longer, and looked
-it over more carefully than we had the others. It had a short, quick
-descent, then a long line of white-topped waves, with a big whirlpool
-on the right. There were numerous rocks which would take careful work
-to avoid. The waves were big,--big enough for a motion picture,--so
-Emery remained on shore with both the motion-picture camera and the
-8X10 plate camera in position, ready to take the picture, while I ran
-my boat.
-
-At the head of this rapid we saw footprints in the sand, but not made
-with the same shoe as that which we had noticed above the junction. We
-had also seen signs of a camp, and some fishes' heads above this
-point, and what we took to be a dog's track along the shore.
-
-At the head of the next rapid we saw them again, but on opposite side
-of the river, and could see where boat had been pulled up on the sand.
-This next rapid was almost as bad as the one above it, but with a
-longer descent, instead of one abrupt drop. The following rapid was so
-close that we continued along the shore to look it over at the same
-time, saving a stop between the two rapids. The shores were strewn
-with a litter of gigantic boulders--fallen sections of the overhanging
-cliffs. We found more of this in Cataract Canyon than in any of the
-canyons above. This was partly responsible for the violence of the
-rapids, although the descent of the river would make rough water even
-if there were no boulders. Working back along the shore, we were
-suddenly electrified into quick action by seeing the _Edith_ come
-floating down the river, close to the shore and almost on the rapid.
-Emery was a short distance ahead and ran for the _Defiance_; I caught
-up a long pole and got on a projecting rock, hoping I might steer her
-in. She passed me, and was soon in the midst of the rapid before Emery
-had launched the boat. Three gigantic boulders extended above the
-water about fifty feet from shore, with a very crooked channel
-between. Down toward these boulders came the _Edith_, plunging like a
-thing possessed. How it was done I could never tell, but she passed
-through the crooked channel without once touching, and continued over
-the rapid. Meanwhile Emery had run the other side and had gained on
-the _Edith_, but only caught her when close to the next rapid; so he
-turned her loose and came to the shore for me.
-
-Emery had not been feeling his best and I advised him to remain on
-shore while I took the boat. As we made the change we again observed
-the boat, bounding through the next rapid, whirling on the tops of the
-waves as though in the hands of a superhuman juggler. I managed to
-overtake her in a whirlpool below the rapid, and came to shore for her
-captain. He was nearly exhausted with his efforts; still he insisted
-on continuing. A few miles below we saw some ducks, and shot at them
-with a revolver. But the ducks flew disdainfully away, and landed in
-the pool below.
-
-By 4.30 P.M. we were twelve miles below the junction, a very good
-day's run considering the kind of water we were travelling on, and the
-amount of time we spent on the shore. We had just run our twelfth
-rapid, and were turning the boats around, when we saw a man back from
-the shore working over a pile of boxes which he had covered with a
-piece of canvas. A boat was tied to the water's edge. We called to
-him, and he answered, but did not seem nearly as much interested in
-seeing companion travellers as we were, and proceeded with his work.
-We landed, and, to save time, introduced ourselves, as there seemed to
-be a certain aloofness in his manner. He gave the name of Smith--with
-some hesitation, we thought.
-
-Smith was about medium size, but looked tough and wiry; he had a sandy
-complexion, with light hair and mustache. He had lost one eye, the
-other was that light gray colour that is usually associated with
-indomitable nerve. He had a shrewd, rather humorous expression, and
-gave one the impression of being very capable. Dressed in a neat
-whipcord suit, wearing light shoes and a carefully tied tie, recently
-shaved--a luxury we had denied ourselves, all this time--he was
-certainly an interesting character to meet in this out-of-the-way
-place. We should judge he was a little over forty years old; but
-whether prospector, trapper, or explorer it was hard to say. Some
-coyote skins, drying on a rock, would give one the impression that he
-was the second, with a touch of the latter thrown in. These coyotes
-were responsible for the tracks we had seen, and had mistaken for dog
-tracks, but of all the canyons we had seen he was in the last place
-where we would expect to find a trapper. The coyotes evidently reached
-the river gorge through side canyons on the left, where we had seen
-signs of ancient trails. Apart from that there was no sign of animal
-life. With the last of the wooded canyons, the signs of beaver had
-disappeared. There were a few otter tracks, but they are wily fellows,
-and are seldom trapped. While there are laws against the trapping of
-beaver, they seldom prevent the trappers from taking them when they
-get the chance; they are only a little more wary of strangers; the
-thought occurred to us that this trapper may have secured some beaver
-in the open sections above, and mistrusted us for this reason.
-
-It was too late to go any farther that evening, so we camped a hundred
-yards below him, close to where our boats were pulled out. At this
-place there was a long, wide flat in the canyon, with plenty of
-driftwood, so we saw no reason why we should quarrel with our
-neighbour. Smith accepted our invitation to supper, stating that he
-had just eaten before we arrived, but enjoyed some pineapple which we
-had kept for some special occasion, and which was served for dessert.
-
-Over the table we became better acquainted, and, after learning what
-we were doing, he recounted his experiences. He told us he had left
-Green River, Utah, a month before, and had been trapping as he came
-along. He knew there was a canyon, and some rapids below, but had no
-idea they were so bad, and thought they were about ended. No one had
-warned him, for he had told no one what he intended doing. He had
-bought an old water-logged boat that had been built by Galloway, and
-seeing the uselessness of trying to run the rapids with it, worked it
-down along the shores by holding it with a light chain. Once he had
-been pulled into the river, twice the boat had been upset, and he was
-just about dried out from the last spill when we arrived. He had heard
-us shooting at the ducks, so rather expected company--this in brief
-was his amazing story.
-
-We were surprised when we examined the boat closely. It had been well
-made, but was so old and rotten that it seemed ready to fall to
-pieces. In places, the nail heads had pulled through the boards. It
-was entirely open on top--a great risk in such water. His boxes were
-tied in to prevent loss. These boxes were now piled on the shore, with
-a large canvas thrown over them. This canvas, fastened at the top and
-sloping to the ground, served him for a tent; his bed was underneath.
-A pair of high-topped boots, placed bottom up over two sticks, stuck
-in the sand beside the camp-fire, explained the different tracks we
-had seen above.
-
-Smith evidently was not much alarmed over his situation. About the
-only thing that seemed to bother him was the fact that his smoking
-tobacco had been wet several times. That evening we got out our
-guide-book--Dellenbaugh's "A Canyon Voyage"--and tried to give him an
-idea of what was ahead. The walls ahead grew higher, and closer
-together; sometimes there was a shore on one side, sometimes on the
-other, at one or two places there was no shore on either side, and the
-rapids continued to get worse,--so we gathered from Dellenbaugh's
-experience. Above this point there were several places where one could
-climb out,--we had even seen signs of ancient trails in two side
-canyons,--below here few such places existed.
-
-Smith listened to all this attentively, then smiled and said "I guess
-there will be some way through." After a short visit he returned to
-his camp. We noticed that he slept on his gun,--to keep it dry, no
-doubt, for it looked like rain.
-
-Morning found us very sorry that we had not erected our tent, for it
-rained nearly all night, but when once in our beds it was a question
-which was preferable; to get out in the rain and put up our tent, or
-remain in our comfortable beds. We remained where we were. As we
-prepared to leave, we offered Smith a chance to accompany us through
-Cataract Canyon, telling him that we would help him with his boat
-until the quiet water of Glen Canyon was reached. He declined the
-opportunity, saying that he would rather travel slowly and do what
-trapping he could. He welcomed a chance to take a ride on the
-_Defiance_, however. We took him over two small rapids, and gave him
-an insight into our method of avoiding the dangers. He was very
-enthusiastic about it. On reaching the next rapid we all concluded it
-would be very unwise to carry any passengers, for it was violent
-water, so he got out on the shore.
-
-Smith had once seen some moving pictures of Japanese shooting rapids,
-but he said they were nothing compared to these, remarking that a
-bronco could hardly buck any harder. The next rapid was just as bad,
-Rapid No. 14 for Cataract Canyon, and Smith helped us secure a motion
-picture. Then he prepared to return to his camp. Just before leaving
-he explained rather apologetically, that ranchers, or others, were
-usually very unfriendly to a stranger coming into their section of the
-country. He had heard us shooting at the ducks and he imagined we
-belonged in some of the side canyons or on the top. This explained his
-puzzling attitude at our first meeting. If he had any beaver skins in
-his pack this would make him even more suspicious of strangers. We
-wished him nothing but the best of luck, and were good friends when we
-parted. His decision to make the trip alone, poorly equipped as he
-was, seemed like suicide to us. He promised to write to us if he got
-out, and with a final wave of the hand we left him on the shore.
-
-The rapid just passed was possibly the scene of the disaster
-discovered by the Stone expedition. They found a clumsy boat close to
-the shore, jammed in a mass of rocks, smashed and abandoned. There
-were tracks of three people in the sand, one track being a boy's. A
-coat was left on the shore. The tracks disappeared up a box canyon.
-Mr. Stone corresponded with the only settlements in all that region,
-few in number, and far distant; but nothing was ever heard of them,
-Two other parties have left Green River, Utah, within a year of this
-find and disappeared in like manner. This seemed to be the usual
-result of these attempts. In nearly every case they have started in
-boats that are entirely unfitted for rough water, and, seemingly
-without any knowledge of the real danger ahead, try to follow where
-others, properly equipped, have gone through.
-
-What a day of excitement that was! We always thought we needed a
-certain amount of thrills to make life sufficiently interesting for
-us. In a few hours' time, in the central portion of Cataract Canyon,
-we experienced nearly enough thrills to last us a lifetime. In one or
-two of the upper canyons we thought we were running rapids. Now we
-were learning what rapids really were. No sooner were we through one
-than another presented itself. At each of them we climbed along the
-boulder-strewn shores--the lower slopes growing steeper, the walls
-above towering higher--clear to the end of the rapid. Looking upstream
-we could pick out the submerged rocks hidden in the muddy water, and
-looking like an innocent wave from above. Twice we had picked out
-channels in sharp drops, after carefully observing their actions and
-deciding they were free from obstructions, when suddenly the waves
-would part for an instant and disclose a hidden rock--in one case as
-sharp as a hound's tooth--sure disaster if we ever struck it. As soon
-as we had decided on a channel we would lose no time in getting back
-to our boats and running it for we could feel our courage oozing from
-our finger tips with each second's delay. Time and again we got
-through just by a scratch. Success bred confidence; I distinctly
-remember feeling that water alone would not upset the boat; that it
-would take a collision with a rock to do it. And each time we got
-through. Twice I almost had reason to reverse my impression of the
-power of water. First the stern rose up in front of me, as if squaring
-off at the tops of the cliffs, then descended, until it seemed to be
-trying to plumb the depths of the river. The waves, rolling over me,
-almost knocked me out of the boat, I lost my hold on the oars and
-grabbed the sides of the boat; then, regaining the oars, I finished
-the run by pulling with the bow headed downstream, for the boat had
-"swapped ends" in the interval, and was heavy with about three barrels
-of water in the cockpit. I bailed out with a grocery box, kept under
-the seat for that purpose. It had been growing quite cold, and Emery's
-indisposition--or what was really acute indigestion--had weakened him
-for the past two days, but he pluckily declined to stop. I was soaked
-with my last immersion and chilled with the wind, so concluded there
-was no use having him go through the same experience and I ran his
-boat while he made a picture. We were both ready to camp then, but
-there was no suitable place and we had to push on to the next rapid.
-On looking it over we almost gave up our intention of running it. It
-was about a fourth of a mile long; a mass of submerged rocks extended
-entirely across the river; the entire rapid seemed impossible. We
-finally concluded it might be run by shooting up, stern first, on a
-sloping rock near the shore, then return as the current recoiled and
-ran back, dividing on either side of the rock. The only clear channel
-was one about twelve feet wide, between this rock and the shore. A
-projecting shore above prevented a direct entrance to this channel.
-
-We threw logs in and watched their action. In each case they paused
-when within five or six feet of the top of the slope, then returned
-with the current, whirled back to the side and shot through close to
-the shore. We planned to go through as close together as possible.
-Emery was ready first, I held back in a protecting pool, waiting for
-him to get out of the way. He got his position, facing stern
-downstream, gave the slightest shove forward, and the released boat
-whizzed down for fifty feet and ran up on the rock. She paused a
-moment, as the water prepared to return. He gave two quick pulls,
-shooting back again, slightly to the right, until he struck the narrow
-channel, then reversed his course and went through stern first exactly
-as we had planned it. The square stern, buoyed up by the air-chamber,
-lifted the boat out of the resulting wave as he struck the bottom of
-the descent. This much of the rapid had only taken a few seconds.
-
-I followed at once, but was not so fortunate. The _Defiance_ was
-carried to the left side, where some water dropped over the side of
-the rock, instead of reversing. I pulled frantically, seeing visions,
-meanwhile, of the boat and myself being toppled off the side of the
-rock, into the boulders and waves below. My rowing had no effect
-whatever, but the boat was grabbed by the returning wave and shot, as
-if from a catapult, back and around to the right, through the sloping
-narrow channel,--my returning course describing a half circle. Instead
-of rising, the pointed bow cut down into the waves until the water was
-on my shoulders. Emery turned his head for an instant to see what
-success I was having, and his boat was thrown on to a rock close to
-the shore. I passed him and landed, just before going into the next
-rapid. I then went back and helped him off the rock, and he continued
-his course over the leaping waves. He broke a rowlock before he
-landed, and had to use the substitute we had hung beside it.
-
-We found a good spot for a camp just above the next rapid. Our tent
-was stretched in front of a large boulder. A large pile of driftwood
-gave us all the fuel needed, and we soon had a big fire going and our
-wet clothes steaming on the line.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIV
-
-
-
-A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS
-
-An hour or so after making our camp, we began to doubt the wisdom of
-our choice of a location, for a downpour of rain threatened to send a
-stream of water under the tent. The stream was easily turned aside,
-while a door and numerous boards found in the drift pile, made a very
-good floor for the tent and lifted our sleeping bags off the wet sand.
-We had little trouble in this section to find sufficient driftwood for
-fires. The pile at this camp was enormous, and had evidently been
-gathering for years. Some of it, we could be sure, was recent, for a
-large pumpkin was found deposited in the drift pile twenty-five feet
-above the low-water stage on which we were travelling. This pumpkin,
-of course, could only have come down on the flood that had preceded
-us.
-
-What a mixture of curios some of those drift piles were, and what a
-great stretch of country they represented! The rivers, unsatisfied
-with washing away the fertile soil of the upper country, had levied a
-greedy toll on the homes along their banks, as well. Almost everything
-that would float, belonging to a home, could be found in some of them.
-There were pieces of furniture and toilet articles, children's toys
-and harness, several smashed boats had been seen, and bloated cattle
-as well. A short distance above this camp we had found two cans of
-white paint, carefully placed on top of a big rock above the
-high-water mark, by some previous voyager.[5] The boats were beginning
-to show the effect of hard usage, so we concluded to take the paint
-along. At another point, this same day, we found a corked bottle
-containing a faded note, undated, requesting the finder to write to a
-certain lady in Delta, Colorado. A note in my journal, beneath a
-record of this find, reads: "Aha! A romance at last!" Judging by the
-appearance of the note it might have been thrown in many years before.
-Delta, we knew, was on the Gunnison River, a tributary of the Grand
-River. The bottle must have travelled over two hundred miles to reach
-this spot.
-
-A letter which I sent out later brought a prompt answer, with the
-information that this bottle and four others with similar notes were
-set adrift by the writer and four of her schoolmates, nearly two years
-before. An agreement was made that the one first receiving an answer
-was to treat the others to a dinner. Our find was the second, so this
-young lady was a guest instead of the host.
-
-Emery took but little interest in our camp arrangements this evening,
-and went to bed as soon as it was possible for him to do so. He said
-little, but he was very weak, and I could tell from his drawn face
-that he was suffering, and knew that it was nothing but nervous energy
-that kept him at his work--that, and a promise which he had made to
-build a fire, within a stated time now less than two weeks away, in
-Bright Angel Creek Canyon, nearly three hundred miles below this camp,
-a signal to his wife and baby that he would be home the next day. I
-was worried about his condition and I feared a fever or pneumonia. For
-two or three days he had not been himself. It was one thing to battle
-with the river when well and strong; it would be decidedly different
-if one of us became seriously ill.
-
-For the first time in all our experiences together, where
-determination and skill seemed necessary to success, I had taken the
-lead during the past two days, feeling that my greater weight and
-strength, perhaps, would help me pull out of danger where he might
-fail. In two or three rapids I felt sure he did not have the strength
-to pull away from certain places that would smash the boats. After
-running the _Defiance_ through these rapids I suggested to him that;
-he would take a picture while I brought the _Edith_ down. He would
-stay near the _Defiance_, ready to aid in case of emergency. After
-being once through a rapid I found it quite a simple matter to run the
-second boat, and the knowledge that he would save me in case of an
-upset greatly lessened any danger that might have existed. He was too
-nervous to sleep, and asked me to take a last look at the boats before
-going to bed. They were pulled well up on the shore and securely tied,
-I found, so that it would take a flood to tear them loose. The rain,
-which had stopped for a while, began again as I rolled into the
-blankets; the fire, fed with great cottonwood logs, threw ghostly
-shadows on the cliffs which towered above us, and sputtered in the
-rain but refused to be drowned; while the roar of rapids, Nos. 22 and
-23 combined, thundered and reverberated from wall to wall, and finally
-lulled us to sleep.
-
-The rain continued all night, but the weather cleared in the morning.
-Emery felt much the same as he had the day before, so we kept the same
-camp that day. We took some pictures, and made a few test
-developments, hanging the dark-room, or tent, inside the other tent
-for want of a better place to tie to.
-
-Sunday, October the 29th, we remained at the same place, and by
-evening were both greatly benefited by the rest. On Monday morning we
-packed up again, leaving only the moving-picture camera out, and
-pictured each other, alternately, as the boats made the Plunge over
-the steep descent in rapid No. 23. Both boats disappeared from sight
-on two or three occasions in this rapid and emerged nearly filled with
-water.
-
-The section just passed is credited with the greatest descent on the
-rivers, a fall of 75 feet in 3/4 of a mile. This includes the three
-rapids: Nos. 21, 22, and 23.
-
-Proceeding on our way the canyon narrowed, going up almost sheer to a
-height of 2500 feet or over. Segregated spires, with castle-like tops,
-stood out from the upper walls. The rapids, or cataracts, compared
-well with those passed above, connected in some instances by
-swift-rushing water instead of the quiet pools which were usually
-found between the rapids. We ran ten rapids this day, but several of
-these which were counted as one were a series of two or three rapids,
-which might be one in high water. All had a shore on one side or the
-other, but caution was imperative when crossing in the swift water
-between the rapids. A mishap here meant destruction. We figured that
-we had travelled about ten miles for this day's run.
-
-The menacing walls continued to go higher with the next day's travel,
-until they reached a height of 2700 feet. The left wall was so sheer
-that it almost seemed to overhang. The little vegetation which we had
-found on the lower slope gradually disappeared as the walls grew
-steeper, but a few scattered shrubs, sage-brush, and an occasional
-juniper grew on the rocky sides, or in one or two side canyons which
-entered from the south. These side canyons had the appearance of
-running back for considerable distances, but we did not explore any of
-them and could tell very little about them from the river.
-
-After our noon lunch this day, in order to keep our minds from
-dwelling too much on the rather depressing surroundings, we proposed
-having a little sport. On two or three occasions we had made motion
-pictures from the deck of the boats as we rowed in the quiet water;
-here we proposed taking a picture from the boats as we went over the
-rapids. The two boats were fastened stern to stern, so that the rowing
-would be done from the first boat. My brother sat on the bow behind
-with the motion-picture camera in front of him, holding it down with
-his chin, his legs clinging to the sides of the boat, with his left
-hand clutching at the hatch cover, and with his right hand free to
-turn the crank. In this way we passed over two small rapids. After
-that one experience we never tried it in a large rapid. As Smith had
-said a few days before the boat bucked like a broncho, and Emery had a
-great deal of difficulty to stay with the boat, to say nothing of
-taking a picture. Once or twice he was nearly unseated but pluckily
-hung on and kept turning away at the crank when it looked as if he and
-the camera would be dumped into the river.
-
-At one point in the lower end of Cataract Canyon we saw the name and
-date A.G. Turner, '07. Below this, close to the end of the canyon,
-were some ruins of cliff dwellings, and a ladder made by white men,
-placed against the walls below the ruins.
-
-On reaching a very deep, narrow canyon entering from the south,
-locally known as Dark Canyon, we knew that we were nearing the end of
-the rapids in Cataract Canyon. Dark Canyon extends a great distance
-back into the country, heading in the mountains we had seen to the
-south, when we climbed out at the junction of the Green and the Grand.
-Pine cones and other growths entirely foreign to the growth of the
-desert region were found near its mouth. A flood had recently filled
-the bottom of this narrow canyon to a depth of several feet, but the
-water had settled down again and left a little stream of clear water
-running through the boulders. The rapid at the end of this canyon was
-one of the worst of the entire series, and had been the scene of more
-than one fatality, we had been told. It had a very difficult approach
-and swung against the right wall, then the water was turned abruptly
-to the left by a great pile of fallen boulders. The cresting waves
-looked more like breakers of the ocean than anything we had seen on
-the river.
-
-We each had a good scare as we ran this rapid. Emery was completely
-hidden from my view, he was nearly strangled and blinded by the waves
-for a few seconds while struggling in the maelstrom; the _Edith_ was
-dropped directly on top of a rock in the middle of this rapid, then
-lifted on the next wave. I also had a thrilling experience but avoided
-the rock. In the lower part of the rapid a rowlock pulled apart; and
-to prevent the boat from turning sideways in the rapid, I threw up my
-knee, holding the oar against it for a lever until I was in quieter
-water, and could get the other rowlock in position.
-
-Separated from my brother in this instance, I had an opportunity to
-see the man and water conflict, with a perspective much as it would
-have appeared to a spectator happening on the scene. I was out of the
-heat of the battle. The excitement and indifference to danger that
-comes with a hand-to-hand grapple was gone. I heard the roar of the
-rapid; a roar so often heard that we forgot it was there. I saw the
-gloom of the great gorge, and the towering, sinister shafts of rock,
-weakened with cracks, waiting for the moment that would send them
-crashing to the bottom. I saw the mad, wild water hurled at the
-curving wall. Jagged rocks, like the bared fangs of some
-dream-monster, appeared now and then in the leaping, tumbling waves.
-Then down toward the turmoil--dwarfed to nothingness by the magnitude
-of the walls--sped the tiny shell-like boat, running smoothly like a
-racing machine! There was no rowing. The oar-blades were tipped high
-to avoid loss in the first comber; then the boat was buried in foam,
-and staggered through on the other side. It was buffeted here and
-there, now covered with a ton of water, now topping a ten-foot wave.
-Like a skilled boxer--quick of eye, and ready to seize any temporary
-advantage--the oarsman shot in his oars for two quick strokes, to
-straighten the boat with the current or dodge a threatening boulder;
-then covered by lifting his oars and ducking his head as a brown flood
-rolled over him. Time and again the manoeuvre was repeated: now here
-now there. One would think the chances were about one to a hundred
-that he would get through. But by some sort of a system, undoubtedly
-aided, many times, by good luck, the man and his boat won to land.
-
-After running a small rapid, we came to another, in the centre of
-which was an island,--the last rapid in Cataract Canyon. While not as
-bad as the one at Dark Canyon it was rather difficult, and at this
-point we found no shore on either side. The south side was rendered
-impassable by great boulders, much higher than the river level, which
-were scattered through the channel. The opposite channel began much
-like the rapid at Dark Canyon, sweeping under the wall until turned by
-a bend and many fallen rocks below the end of the island, then crossed
-with a line of cresting waves to the opposite side, where it was
-joined by the other stream, and the left wall was swept clean in like
-manner. We ran it by letting our boats drop into the stream, but
-pulled away from the wall and kept close to the island, then when its
-end was reached crossed the ridge of waves and pulled for the
-right-hand shore. In such rapids as this we often found the line of
-waves in the swift-rushing centre to be several feet higher than the
-water along the shore.
-
-Then our thoughts reverted to Smith. What would he do when he came to
-this rapid? The only escape was a narrow sloping ledge on the right
-side, beginning close to the water some distance above the rapid,
-reaching a height of sixty or seventy feet above the water at the
-lower end, while a descent could be made to the river some distance
-below here. It would be possible for him to climb over this with his
-provisions, but the idea of taking his boat up there was entirely out
-of the question, and, poorly equipped as he was, an attempt to run it
-would surely end in disaster. The breaking of an oar, the loss of a
-rowlock, or the slightest knock of his rotten boat against a rock, and
-Smith's fate would be similar to those others whose bones lay buried
-in the sands.
-
-In the next four miles we had no more rapids, but had some fine
-travelling on a very swift river. It was getting dusk, but we pulled
-away, for just ahead of us was the end of Cataract Canyon. We camped
-by a large side canyon on the left named Mille Crag Bend, with a great
-number of jagged pinnacles gathered in a group at the top of the
-walls, which had dropped down to a height of about 1300 feet. We felt
-just a little proud of our achievement, and believed we had
-established a record for Cataract Canyon, having run all rapids in
-four days' travelling, and come through in safety.
-
-We had one rapid to run the next morning at the beginning of Narrow
-Canyon, the only rapid in this nine-mile long canyon. The walls here
-at the beginning were twelve or thirteen hundred feet high, and
-tapered to the end, where they rise about four hundred feet above the
-Dirty Devil River. Narrow Canyon contains the longest straight stretch
-of river which we remembered having seen. When five miles from its
-mouth we could look through and see the snow-capped peak of Mt.
-Ellsworth beyond. This peak is one of the five that composes the Henry
-Mountains, which lay to the north of the river.
-
-Three hours' rowing brought us to the end. We paused a few minutes to
-make a picture or two of the Dirty Devil River,--or the Fr�mont River
-as it is now recorded on the maps. This stream, flowing from the
-north, was the exact opposite of the Bright Angel Creek, that
-beautiful stream we knew so well, two hundred and fifty miles below
-this point. The Dirty Devil was muddy and alkaline, while warm springs
-containing sulphur and other minerals added to its unpalatable taste.
-After tasting it we could well understand the feeling of the Jack
-Sumner, whose remark, after a similar trial, suggested its name to
-Major Powell.
-
-A short distance below this we saw a tent, and found it occupied by an
-old-timer named Kimball. Among other things he told us that he had a
-partner, named Turner, who had made the trip through the canyons
-above, and arrived at this point in safety. This was the man whose
-name we had seen on the walls in Cataract Canyon. Less than two miles
-more brought us to the Hite ranch, and post-office. John Hite gave us
-a cordial reception. He had known of our coming from the newspapers;
-besides, he had some mail for us. We spent the balance of the day in
-writing letters, and listening to Hite's interesting experiences of
-his many years of residence in this secluded spot. Hite's home had
-been a haven for the sole survivor of two expeditions which had met
-with disaster in Cataract. In each case they were on the verge of
-starvation. Hite kept a record of all known parties who had attempted
-the passage through the canyons above. Less than half of these
-parties, excepting Galloway's several successful trips, succeeded in
-getting through Cataract Canyon without wrecking boats or losing
-lives.
-
-After passing the Fr�mont River the walls on the right or north side
-dropped down, leaving low, barren sandstone hills rolling away from
-the river, with a fringe of willows and shrubs beside the water, and
-with the usual sage-brush, prickly pear, cactus and bunch-grass on the
-higher ground. We had seen one broken-down log cabin, but this ranch
-was the only extensive piece of ground that was cultivated. Judging by
-the size of his stacks of alfalfa, Hite had evidently had a good
-season. The banks of the south side of the river were about two
-hundred feet high, composed of a conglomerate mass of clay and gravel.
-This spot has long been a ferry crossing, known far and wide as Dandy
-Crossing, the only outlet across the river for the towns of
-southeastern Utah, along the San Juan River. The entire 150 miles of
-Glen Canyon had once been the scene of extensive placer operations.
-The boom finally died, a few claims only proving profitable.
-
-One of these claims was held by Bert Loper, one of the three miners
-who had gone down the river in 1908. Loper never finished, as his
-boat--a steel boat, by the way--was punctured in a rapid above Dark
-Canyon but was soon repaired. His cameras and plates being lost, he
-sent from Hite out for new ones. His companions--Chas. Russell, and
-E.R. Monette--were to wait for him at Lee's Ferry, after having
-prospected through Glen Canyon. Some mistake was made about the
-delivery of the cameras and, as Hite post-office only had weekly
-communication with the railroad, a month elapsed before he finally
-secured them. Lee's Ferry had been discontinued as a post-office at
-that time, and, although he tried to get a letter in to them, it was
-never delivered. His disappointment can be imagined better than
-described, when he reached Lee's Ferry and found his companions had
-left just a few days previous. They naturally thought if he were
-coming at all he would have been there long before that, and they gave
-him up, not knowing the cause of the delay. They left a letter,
-however, saying they would only go to the Bright Angel Trail, and the
-trip could be completed together on the following year.
-
-Loper spent many hard days working his boat, with his load of
-provisions, back against the current, and located a few miles below
-the Hite ranch.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XV
-
-
-
-PLACER GOLD
-
-We passed Loper's claim after resuming our journey the next day. His
-workings were a one-man proposition and very ingenious. We found a
-tunnel in the gravel a hundred feet above the river, and some distance
-back from the river bank. A track of light rails ran from the river
-bank to these workings; the gravel and sand was loaded into a car, and
-hauled or pushed to the bank, then dumped into a chute, which sent it
-down to the river's edge.
-
-Loper was not at his work however, neither did we find him at his
-ranch, a mile down the river. He had a neat little place, with fruit
-trees and a garden, a horse or two, and some poultry. After resuming
-our rowing, when about a mile down the river, some one called to us
-from the shore, and Loper himself came running down to meet us. John
-Hite had requested us to stop and see his brother, Cass Hite, who
-owned a ranch and placer working nearly opposite where Loper had
-halted us; so Loper crossed with us, as he was anxious to know of our
-passage through the canyons.
-
-We found, in Cass Hite, an interesting "old-timer," one who had
-followed the crowd of miners and pioneers, in the West, since the
-discovery of gold on the coast. He was the discoverer of the White
-Canyon Natural Bridges, of Southern Utah, located between this point
-and the San Juan River, and had been the first to open the ferry at
-Dandy Crossings. Hite had prospected Navajo Mountain, southwest of
-this point, in the early sixties, about the time of the Navajos'
-trouble with the United States army, under the leadership of Kit
-Carson, who dislodged them from their strongholds in the mountains
-after many others had failed. Hite's life was saved on more than one
-occasion by warnings from a friendly chief, or head man of the Western
-Navajos, known as Hoskaninni, who regarded him as a brother, and
-bestowed on him the name, Hosteen pes'laki, meaning "Silver man." He
-is still known by this name, and refers to his pretty ranch as Tick a
-Bo, a Ute word for "friendly." Hite proudly quoted a poem written by
-Cy Warman about the theme of the Indian's regard for his white friend.
-Warman had followed the crowd in to this spot at the time of the boom,
-looking for local colour--human local colour, not the glitter in the
-sands. It was at John Hite's home where Warman had composed the one
-time popular song, "Sweet Marie." It would be safe to say that he
-brought his inspiration with him, for this was decidedly a man's
-country. We were told that it had only been visited by one woman in
-the past twelve years. Hite insisted on our remaining until the
-following morning, and we concluded that the rest would do us good. He
-loaded us up with watermelons, and with raisins, which he was curing
-at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a shaded arbour,
-listening to his reminiscences, and munching at the raisins.
-
-That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon expedition. He
-felt a little bitter about some newspaper reports that had been
-published concerning this expedition, these reports giving the
-impression that his nerve had failed him, and that for this reason he
-had not continued on the journey. We mollified his feelings somewhat,
-when we told him that his companions were not responsible for these
-reports; but rather, that short telegraphic reports, sent out from the
-Grand Canyon, had been misconstrued by the papers; and that this
-accounted for the stories which had appeared. His companions had
-remained at the Grand Canyon for two days following their arrival at
-Bright Angel Trail. They gave Loper credit, to our certain knowledge,
-of being the only one of the party who knew how to handle the boats in
-rough water when they began the trip, and had stated that he ran all
-the boats through certain rapids until they caught the knack. They
-could not know of his reasons for the delay, and at that time had no
-knowledge of his arrival at Lee's Ferry, after they had gone.
-Naturally they were very much puzzled over his non-appearance.
-
-It got quite cold that night, and we were glad to have shelter of
-Hite's hospitable roof. In our trip down the river to this point we
-had seemed to keep even with the first cold weather. In all places
-where it was open, we would usually find a little ice accompanied by
-frost in the mornings, or if no ice had frozen the grass would be wet
-with dew. In the canyons there was little or no ice, and the air was
-quite dry. Naturally we preferred the canyons if we had a choice of
-camps.
-
-Loper looked as though he would like to accompany us as we pulled away
-the next morning, after having landed him on the south side of the
-stream. We, at least, had full confidence in his nerve to tackle the
-lower Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon. The five
-scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to the north-northwest
-of us, rugged and snow-capped, supreme in their majesty above this
-desolate region.
-
-Signs of an ancient Indian race were plentiful in this section. There
-were several small cliff dwellings, walled up in ledges in the rocks,
-a hundred feet or so above a low flat which banked the river. At
-another place there were hundreds of carvings on a similar wall which
-overhung a little. Drawings of mountain-sheep were plentiful; there
-was one representing a human figure with a bow and arrow, and with a
-sheep standing on the arrow--their way of telling that he got the
-sheep, no doubt. There were masked figures engaged in a dance, not
-unlike some of the Hopi dances of to-day, as they picture them. There
-were geometrical figures, and designs of many varieties. A small rock
-building half covered with sand and the accumulations of many years
-stood at the base of the cliff; and quantities of broken pottery were
-scattered about the ruin. Farther down the river a pathway was worn
-into the sandstone where countless bare and moccasined feet had
-toiled, and climbed over the sloping wall to the mesa above. The ruins
-in this section were not extensive, like those found in the tributary
-canyons of the San Juan River, for instance, not a very great distance
-from here. Possibly this people stopped here as they travelled back
-and forth, trading with their cousins to the north; or the dwellings
-may have been built by the scattered members of the tribe, when their
-strongholds were assailed by the more warlike tribes that crowded in
-on them from all sides.
-
-What a story these cliffs could tell! What a romance they could
-narrate of various tribes, as distinct from each other as the nations
-of Europe, crowding each other; and at the last of this inoffensive
-race, coming from the far south, it may be; driven from pillar to
-post, making their last stand in this desert land; to perish of
-pestilence, or to be almost exterminated by the blood-thirsty tribes
-that surrounded them--then again, when the tide changed, and a new
-type of invader travelled from the east, pushing ever to the west,
-conquering all before them! But like the sphinx, the cliffs are silent
-and voiceless as the hillocks and sand-dunes along the Nile, that
-other desert stream, with a history no more ancient and momentous than
-this.
-
-That night we camped opposite the ruins of a dredge, sunk in the low
-water at the edge of the river. This dredge had once represented the
-outlay of a great deal of money. It is conceded by nearly all experts
-that the sands of these rivers contain gold, but it is of such a fine
-grain--what is known as flour gold--and the expense of saving it is so
-great, that it has not paid when operated on such a large scale. A few
-placers in Glen Canyon have paid individual operators, some of these
-claims being in gravel deposits from six hundred to eight hundred feet
-above the present level of the river.
-
-On the following day we again entered deep canyon; sheer for several
-hundred feet, creamy white above, with a dark red colour in the lower
-sandstone walls. That afternoon we passed a small muddy stream flowing
-from the north, in a narrow, rock-walled canyon. This was the
-Escalante River, a stream rising far to the north, named for one of
-the Spanish priests who had travelled this country, both to the north
-and the south of this point, as early as the year 1776, about the time
-when the New England colonists were in the midst of their struggle
-with the mother country.
-
-Just below the Escalante River, the canyon turned almost directly
-south, continuing in this general direction for several miles. A
-glimpse or two was had of the top of a tree-covered snow-capped peak
-directly ahead of us, or a little to the southwest. This could be none
-other than Navajo Mountain, a peak we could see from the Grand Canyon,
-and had often talked of climbing, but debated if we could spare the
-time, now that we were close to it.
-
-In all this run through Glen Canyon we had a good current, but only
-one place resembling a rapid. Here, below the Escalante, it was very
-quiet, and hard pulling was necessary to make any headway. We were
-anxious to reach the San Juan River that evening, but the days were
-growing short, and we were still many miles away when it began to grow
-dusk; so we kept a lookout for a suitable camp. The same conditions
-that had bothered us on one or two previous occasions were found here;
-slippery, muddy banks, and quicksand, together with an absence of
-firewood. We had learned before this to expect these conditions where
-the water was not swift. The slower stream had a chance to deposit its
-silt, and if the high water had been very quiet, we could expect to
-find it soft, or boggy. In the canyons containing swift water and
-rapids we seldom found mud, but found a firm sand, instead. Here in
-Glen Canyon we had plenty of mud, for the river had been falling the
-last few days. Time and again we inspected seemingly favourable
-places, only to be disappointed. The willows and dense shrubbery came
-down close to the river; the mud was black, deep, and sticky; all
-driftwood had gone out on the last flood. Meanwhile a glorious full
-moon had risen, spreading a soft, weird light over the canyon walls
-and the river; so that we now had a light much better than the dusk of
-half an hour previous, our course being almost due south. Finally,
-becoming discouraged, we decided to pull for the San Juan River,
-feeling sure that we would find a sand-bar there. It was late when we
-reached it, and instead of a sand-bar we found a delta of bottomless
-mud. We had drifted past the point where the rivers joined, before
-noticing that the stream turned directly to the west, with canyon
-walls two or three hundred feet high, and no moonlight entered there.
-Instead, it was black as a dungeon. From down in that darkness there
-came a muffled roar, reverberating against the walls, and sounding
-decidedly like a rapid. There was not a minute to lose. We pulled, and
-pulled hard--for the stream was now quite swift close to the right
-shore, and a sheer bank of earth about ten feet high made it difficult
-to land. Jumping into the mud at the edge of the water, we tied the
-boats to some bushes, then tore down the bank and climbed out on a
-dry, sandy point of land. At the end or sharp turn of the sheer wall
-we found a fair camp, with driftwood enough for that night. Emery,
-weak from his former illness and the long day's run, went to bed as
-soon as we had eaten a light supper. I looked after the cooking that
-evening, making some baking-powder bread,--otherwise known as a
-flapjack,--along with other arrangements for the next day; but I fear
-my efforts as a cook always resulted rather poorly.
-
-We had breakfast at an early hour the next morning and were ready for
-the boats at 7.15, the earliest start to our record. Our rapid of the
-night before proved to be a false alarm, being nothing more than the
-breaking of swift water as it swept the banks of rocks at the turn. It
-was quite different from what we had pictured in our minds.
-
-We had long looked forward to this day. Navajo Mountain, with bare,
-jagged sides and tree-covered dome, was located just a few miles below
-this camp. It was a sandstone mountain peak, towering 7000 feet above
-the river, the steep slope beginning some five or six miles back from
-the stream. The base on which it rested was of sandstone, rounded and
-gullied into curious forms, a warm red and orange colour
-predominating. The north side, facing the river, was steep of slope,
-covered with the fragments of crumbled cliffs and with soft
-cream-tinted pinnacles rising from its slope. The south side, we had
-reason, to believe, was tree-covered from top to bottom; the north
-side held only a few scattered cedar pi�on We had often seen the hazy
-blue dome from the Grand Canyon, one hundred and twenty miles away,
-and while it was fifty miles farther by the river, we felt as if we
-were entered on the home stretch; as if we were in a country with
-which we were somewhat familiar.
-
-The Colorado and the San Juan rivers form the northern boundary of the
-Navajo Indian Reservation, comprising a tract of land as large as many
-Eastern states, extending over a hundred miles, both east and west
-from this point. Embodied in this reservation, and directly opposite
-our camp, was a small section of rugged land set aside for some Utes,
-who had friendly dealings, and who had intermarried with the Navajo.
-But if we expected to find the Navajo, or Utes on the shore, ready to
-greet us, we were doomed to disappointment.
-
-We explored a few side canyons this morning, hoping to find a spot
-where some of Major Powell's party--particularly those men who were
-afterwards killed by the Indians--had chiselled their names, which
-record we were told was to be found near the San Juan, but on which
-side we were not sure. While in one of these canyons, or what was
-really nothing more than a crooked overhanging slit in the rocks,
-containing a small stream, Emery found himself in some soft quicksand,
-plunged instantly above his knees, and sinking rapidly. He would have
-had a difficult time in getting out of this quicksand without help,
-for a smooth, rock wall was on one side, the other bank of the stream
-was sheer above him for a few feet, and there was nothing solid which
-he could reach. We had seen a great deal of quicksand before this, but
-nothing of this treacherous nature. Usually we could walk quickly over
-these sands without any danger of being held in them, or if
-caught--while lifting on a boat for instance--had no difficulty in
-getting out. When once out of this canyon we gave up our search for
-the carved record.
-
-But it was not the hope of shortening our homeward run, or the
-prospect of meeting Indians on the shores, or of finding historical
-records, even, that caused us to make this early start. It was the
-knowledge that the wonderful Rainbow Natural Bridge, recently
-discovered, and only visited by three parties of whites, lay hidden in
-one of the side canyons that ran from the north slope of Navajo
-Mountain. No one had gone into it from the river, but we were told it
-could be done. We hoped to find this bridge.
-
-The current was swift, and we travelled fast, in spite of a stiff wind
-which blew up the stream, getting a very good view of the mountain
-from the river a few miles below our camp, and another view of the
-extreme top, a short distance below this place, not over six miles
-from the San Juan. We had directions describing the canyon in which
-the bridge was located, our informant surmising that it was thirty
-miles below the San Juan. We thought it must be less than that, for
-the river was very direct at this place, and a person travelling over
-the extremely rough country which surrounded this side of the mountain
-slope would naturally have to travel much farther, so began to look
-for it about twelve miles below camp. But mile after mile went by
-without any sign of the landmarks that would tell us we were at the
-"Bridge Canyon." Then the river, which had circled the northern side
-of the peak, turned directly away from it, and we knew that we had
-missed the bridge. At no point on the trip had we met with a
-disappointment to equal that; even the loss of our moving-picture
-film, after our spill in Lodore, was small when compared with it.
-
-On looking back over the lay of the land, we felt sure that the bridge
-was at one of the two places, where we had seen the top of the
-mountain from the river. To go back against the current would take at
-least three days. Our provisions were limited in quantity and would
-not permit it; the canyon had deepened, and a second bench of sheer
-cliffs rose above the plateau, making it impossible to climb out: so
-we concluded to make the best of it, and pulled down the stream,
-trying to put as many miles as possible between ourselves and our
-great disappointment. This afternoon we passed from Utah into Arizona.
-For the remainder of the trip we would have Arizona on one side of the
-river at least. We had much the same difficulty this evening as we had
-the night before in finding a camp. Judging by the evidence along the
-shore, the high water which came down the San Juan had been a torrent,
-much greater than the flood on the Colorado and its upper tributaries.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVI
-
-
-
-A WARNING
-
-We camped that night at the Ute Ford, or the Crossing of the Fathers;
-a noted landmark of bygone days, when Escalante (in 1776) and others
-later followed the inter-tribal trails across these unfriendly lands.
-Later marauding Navajo used this trail, crossing the canyon to the
-north side, raiding the scattered Mormon settlements, bringing their
-stolen horses, and even sheep, down this canyon trail. Then they drove
-them across on a frozen river, and escaped with them to their mountain
-fastness. The Mormons finally tired of these predatory visits, and
-shut off all further loss from that source by blasting off a great
-ledge at the north end of the trail. This ruined the trail beyond all
-hope of repair, and there is no travel at present over the old Ute
-Crossing. The fording of the river on horseback was effected by
-dropping down to the river through a narrow side canyon, and crossing
-to the centre on a shoal, then following a centre shoal down quite a
-distance, and completing the crossing at a low point on the opposite
-side. This was only possible at the very lowest stage of water.
-
-The morning following our arrival here, we walked about a mile up the
-gravelly slope on the south side, to see if we could locate the pass
-by which the trail dropped down over these 3000-foot walls. The canyon
-had changed in appearance after leaving the mountain, and now we had a
-canyon; smaller, but not unlike the Grand Canyon in appearance, with
-an inner plateau, and a narrow canyon at the river, while the walls on
-top were several miles apart, and towering peaks or buttes rose from
-the plateau, reaching a height almost equal to the walls themselves.
-The upper walls were cream-tinted or white sandstone, the lower
-formation was a warm red sandstone. We could not discover the pass
-without a long walk to the base of the upper cliffs, so returned to
-the boats.
-
-About this time we heard shots, seeming to come from some point down
-the river, and on the north side. Later a dull hollow sound was heard
-like pounding on a great bass drum. We could not imagine what it was,
-but knew that it must be a great distance away. We had noticed
-instances before this, where these smooth, narrow canyon had a great
-magnifying effect on noises. In the section above the San Juan, where
-the upper walls overhung a little, a loud call would roll along for
-minutes before it finally died. A shot from a revolver sounded as if
-the cliff were falling.
-
-Our run this morning was delightful. The current was the best on which
-we had travelled. The channel swung from side to side, in great half
-circles, with most of the water thrown against the outside bank, or
-wall, with a five-or six-mile an hour current close to the wall. We
-took advantage of all this current, hugging the wall, with the stern
-almost touching, and with the bow pointed out so we would not run into
-the walls or scrape our oars. Then, when it seemed as if our necks
-were about to be permanently dislocated, from looking over one
-shoulder, the river would reverse its curve, the channel would cross
-to the other side, and we would give that side of our necks a rest.
-Once in a great while I would bump a rock, and would look around
-sheepishly, to see if my brother had seen me do it. I usually found
-him with a big grin on his face, if he happened to be ahead of me.
-
-We rowed about twenty miles down the river before we learned what had
-caused the noises heard in the morning. On rounding a turn we saw the
-strange spectacle of fifteen or twenty men at work on the
-half-constructed hull of a flat-bottomed steamboat, over sixty feet in
-length. This boat was on the bank quite a distance above the water,
-with the perpendicular walls of a crooked side canyon rising above it.
-It was a strange sight, here in this out-of-the-way corner of the
-world. Some men with heavy sledges were under the boat, driving large
-spikes into the planking. This was the noise we had heard that
-morning.
-
-The blasting, we learned later, was at some coal mines, several miles
-up this little canyon, which bore the name of Warm Creek Canyon. A
-road led down through the canyon, making it possible to haul the
-lumber for the boat, clear to the river's edge. The nearest railroad
-was close to two hundred miles from this place, quite a haul
-considering the ruggedness of the country. The material for the boat
-had been shipped from San Francisco, all cut, ready to put together.
-The vessel was to be used to carry coal down the river, to a dredge
-that had recently been installed at Lee's Ferry.
-
-The dinner gong had just sounded when we landed, and we were taken
-along with the crowd. There were some old acquaintances in this group
-of men, we found, from Flagstaff, Arizona. These men had received a
-Flagstaff paper which had published a short note we had sent from
-Green River, Utah. They had added a comment that no doubt this would
-be the last message we would have an opportunity to send out. Very
-cheering for Emery's wife, no doubt. Fortunately she shared our
-enthusiasm, and if she felt any apprehension her few letters failed to
-show it.
-
-We resumed our rowing at once after dinner, for we wished to reach
-Lee's Ferry, twenty-five miles distant, that evening. We had a good
-current, and soon left our friends behind us. We pulled with a will,
-and mile after mile was covered in record time, for our heavy boats.
-
-The walls continued to get higher as we neared our goal, going up
-sheer close to the river. We judged the greatest of these walls to be
-about eleven hundred feet high. After four hours of steady pulling we
-began to weary, for ours were no light loads to propel; but we were
-spurred to renewed effort by hearing the sounds of an engine in the
-distance. On rounding a turn we saw the end of Glen Canyon ahead of
-us, marked by a breaking down of the walls, and a chaotic mixture of
-dikes of rock, and slides of brilliantly coloured shales, broken and
-tilted in every direction. Just below this, close to a ferry, we saw
-the dredge on the right side of the river. We were quite close to the
-dredge before we were seen. Some men paused at their work to watch us
-as we neared them, one man calling to those behind him, "There come
-the brothers!"
-
-A whistle blew announcing the end of their day's labour, and of ours
-as well, as it happened. There was some cheering and waving of hats.
-One who seemed to be the foreman asked us to tie up to a float which
-served as a landing for three motor boats, and a number of skiffs. A
-loudly beaten triangle of steel announced that the evening meal was
-ready at a stone building not far from the dredge. We were soon seated
-at a long table with a lot of others as hungry as we, partaking of a
-well-cooked and substantial meal. We made arrangements to take a few
-meals here, as we wished to overhaul our outfits before resuming our
-journey.
-
-The meal ended, we inquired for the post-office, and were directed to
-a ranch building across the Paria River, a small stream which entered
-from the north, not unlike the Fr�mont River in size and appearance.
-Picking our way in the darkness, on boulders and planks which served
-as a crossing, we soon reached the building, set back from the river
-in the centre of the ranch. A man named Johnson, with his family, had
-charge of the ranch and post-office as well. Mail is brought by
-carrier from the south, a cross-country trip of 160 miles, through the
-Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations.
-
-Johnson informed us that an old-time friend named Dave Rust had waited
-here three or four days, hoping to see us arrive, but business matters
-had forced him to leave just the day before. We were very sorry to
-have missed him. Rust lived in the little Mormon town of Kanab, Utah,
-eighty miles north of the Grand Canyon opposite our home. In addition
-to being a cattle man and rancher, he had superintended the
-construction of a cable crossing, or tramway, over the Colorado River,
-beside the mouth of Bright Angel Creek, not many miles from our home.
-He also maintains a cozy camp at this place, for the accommodation of
-tourists and hunting parties, which he conducts up Bright Angel Creek
-and into the Kaibab Forest. It was while returning from such a hunting
-trip that we first met Rust. Many are the trips we have taken with him
-since then, Emery, with his wife and the baby, even, making the
-"crossing" and the eighty-mile horseback ride to his home in Kanab,
-while I had continued on through to Salt Lake City. Rust had been the
-first to tell us of Galloway and his boating methods; and had given us
-a practical demonstration on the river. Naturally there was no one we
-would have been more pleased to see at that place, than Rust.
-
-In our mail we found a letter from him, stating, among other things,
-that he had camped the night before on the plateau, a few hundred feet
-above a certain big rapid, well known through this section as the Soap
-Creek Rapid. This locality is credited with being the scene of the
-first fatality which overtook the Brown-Stanton expedition; Brown
-being upset and drowned in the next rapid which followed, after having
-portaged the Soap Creek Rapid. Rust wrote also that there was a shore
-along the rapid, so there would be no difficulty in making the
-portage; and concluded by saying that he had a very impressive dream
-about us that night, the second of its kind since we had started on
-our journey.
-
-We understood from this that he had certain misgivings about this
-rapid, and took his dream to be a sort of a warning. Rust should have
-known us better. With all the perversity of human nature that letter
-made me want to run that rapid if it were possible. Why run the rapid,
-and get a moving picture as it was being done. Then we could show Rust
-how well we had learned our lesson! So I thought as we returned to the
-buildings near the dredge, but said nothing of what was in my mind to
-Emery, making the mental reservation that I would see the rapid first
-and decide afterwards.
-
-The foreman of the placer mines called us into his office that
-evening, and suggested that it might be a good plan to go over our
-boats thoroughly before we left, and offered us the privilege of using
-their workshop, with all its conveniences, for any needed repairs. He
-also let us have a room in one of the buildings for our photographic
-work.
-
-This foreman mourned the loss of a friend who had recently been
-drowned at the ferry. It seemed that the floods which had preceded us,
-especially that part which came down the San Juan River, had been
-something tremendous, rising 45 feet at the ferry, where the river was
-400 feet wide; and rising much higher in the narrow portions of Glen
-Canyon. Great masses of driftwood had floated down, looking almost
-like a continuous raft. When the river had subsided somewhat, an
-attempt was made to cross with the ferry. The foreman and his friend,
-with two others, and a team of horses hitched to a wagon, were on the
-ferry. When in midstream it overturned in the swollen current. Three
-of the men escaped, the other man and the horses were drowned.
-
-A careful search had been made for the body to a point a few miles
-down the river, then the canyon closed in and they could go no
-farther. The body was never recovered. It is seldom that the Colorado
-River gives up its dead. The heavy sands collect in the clothes, and a
-body sinks much quicker than in ordinary water. Any object lodged on
-the bottom is soon covered with a sand-bar. The foreman knew this, of
-course; yet he wished us to keep a lookout for the body, which might,
-by some chance, have caught on the shore, when the water receded. This
-was as little as any one would do, and we gave him our promise to keep
-a careful watch.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVII
-
-
-
-A NIGHT OF THRILLS
-
-We declined the offer of a roof that night, preferring to sleep in the
-open here, for the evening was quite warm. We went to work the next
-morning when the whistle sounded at the dredge. Beyond caulking a few
-leaks in the boats, little was done with them. The tin receptacles
-holding our photographic plates and films were carefully coated with a
-covering of melted paraffine; for almost anything might happen, in the
-one hundred miles of rapid water that separated us from our home.
-
-Lee's Ferry was an interesting place, both for its old and its new
-associations. This had long been the home of John D. Lee, well known
-for the part he took in the Mountain Meadow Massacre, and for which he
-afterwards paid the death penalty. Here Lee had lived for many years,
-making few visits to the small settlements to the north, but on one of
-these visits he was captured. There were six or seven other buildings
-near the large stone building where we took our meals, so arranged
-that they made a short street, the upper row being built against a
-cliff of rock and shale, the other row being placed halfway between
-this row and the river. These buildings were all of rock, of which
-there was no lack, plastered with adobe, or mud. One, we were told,
-had been Lee's stronghold, it was a square building, with a few very
-small windows, and with loopholes in the sides. At the time of our
-visit it was occupied by two men; one, a young Englishman, recently
-arrived from South Africa--a remittance-man, in search of novelty--the
-other a grizzled forty-niner. Much could be written about this
-interesting group of men, and their alluring employment. There were
-some who had followed this work through all the camps of the West--to
-Colorado, to California, and to distant Alaska as well, they had
-journeyed; but it is doubtful if, in all their wanderings, they had
-seen any camp more strangely located than this, hemmed in with canyon
-walls. To us, their dredge and the steamboat up the river seemed as if
-they had been taken from the pages of some romance, or bit of fiction,
-and placed before us for our entertainment.
-
-There were other men as well, just as interesting m their way as the
-"old-timers," the sons of some of the owners of this
-proposition,--clean-cut young fellows,--working side by side with the
-veterans, as enthusiastic as if on their college campus.
-
-One feature about the dredge interested us greatly. This was a tube,
-or sucker, held suspended by a derrick above a float, and operated by
-compressed air. The tube was dropped into the sand at the bottom of
-the river, and would eat its way into it, bringing up rocks the size
-of one's fist, along with the gravel and sand. In a few hours a hole,
-ten or fifteen feet in depth and ten feet in diameter, would be
-excavated. Then the tube was raised, the float was moved, and the work
-started again. The coarse sand and gravel, carried by a stream of
-water, was returned to the river, after passing over the riffles; the
-screenings which remained passed over square metal plates--looking
-like sheets of tin--covered with quicksilver. These plates were
-cleaned with a rubber window-cleaner, and the entire residue was saved
-in a heavy metal pot, ready for the chemist.
-
-One day only was needed for our work, and by evening we were ready for
-the next plunge. We might have enjoyed a longer stay with these men,
-but stronger than this desire was our anxiety to reach our home,
-separated from us by a hundred miles of river, no extended part of the
-distance being entirely free from rapids. We had written to the Grand
-Canyon, bidding them look for our signal fire in Bright Angel Creek
-Canyon, in from seven to ten days, and planned to leave on the
-following morning. Nothing held us now except the hope that the mail,
-which was due that evening, might bring us a letter, although that was
-doubtful, for we were nearly a week ahead of our schedule as laid out
-at Green River, Utah.
-
-As we had anticipated, there was no mail for us, so we turned to
-inspect the mail carrier. He was a splendid specimen of the Navajo
-Indian,--a wrestler of note amoung his people, we were told,--large
-and muscular, and with a peculiar springy, slouchy walk that gave one
-the impression of great reserve strength. He had ridden that day from
-Tuba, an agency on their reservation, about seventy miles distant.
-This was the first sign of an Indian that we had seen in this section,
-although we had been travelling along the northern boundary of their
-reservation since leaving the mouth of the San Juan. These Indians
-have no use for the river, being children of the desert, rather than
-of the water. Beyond an occasional crossing and swimming their horses
-at easy fords, they make no attempt at its navigation, even in the
-quiet water of Glen Canyon.
-
-Some of the men showed this Indian our boats, and told him of our
-journey. He smiled, and shrugged his massive shoulders as much as to
-say, he "would believe it when he saw it." He had an opportunity to
-see us start, at least, on the following morning.
-
-Before leaving, we climbed a 300-foot mound on the left bank of the
-Paria River, directly opposite the Lee ranch. This mound is known as
-Lee's Lookout. Whether used by Lee or not, it had certainly served
-that purpose at some time. A circular wall of rock was built on top
-the mound, and commanded an excellent view of all the approaches to
-the junction of the rivers. This spot is of particular interest to the
-geologist, for a great fault, indicated by the Vermilion Cliffs, marks
-the division between Glen Canyon and Marble Canyon. This line of
-cliffs extends to the south for many miles across the Painted Desert,
-and north into Utah for even a greater distance, varying in height
-from two hundred feet at the southern end to as many thousand feet in
-some places to the north. Looking to the west, we could see that here
-was another of those sloping uplifts of rock, with the river cutting
-down, increasing the depth of the canyon with every mile.
-
-We had now descended about 2900 feet since leaving Green River City,
-Wyoming, not a very great fall for the distance travelled if an
-average is taken, but a considerable portion of the distance was on
-quiet water, as we have noted, with a fall of a foot or two to the
-mile, and with alternate sections only containing bad water. We were
-still at an elevation of 3170 feet above the sea-level, and in the 283
-miles of canyon ahead of us--Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon
-combined--the river descends 2330 feet, almost a continuous series of
-rapids from this point to the end of the Grand Canyon.
-
-After a hasty survey from our vantage point, we returned to the river
-and prepared to embark. As we left the dredge, the work was closed
-down for a few minutes, and the entire crowd of men, about forty in
-number, stood on an elevation to watch us run the first rapid. The
-Indian had crossed to the south side of the to feed his horse and
-caught a glimpse of us as we went past him. Running pell-mell down to
-his boat, he crossed the river and joined the group on the bank. About
-this time we were in the grip of the first rapid, a long splashy one,
-with no danger whatever, but large enough to keep us busy until we had
-passed from view.
-
-A few miles below this, after running a pair of small rapids, we
-reached a larger one, known as the Badger Creek Rapid, with a
-twenty-foot drop in the first 250 feet, succeeded by a hundred yards
-of violent water. Emery had a little difficulty in this rapid, when
-his boat touched a rock which turned the boat sideways in the current,
-and he was nearly overturned in the heavy waves which followed. As it
-was, we were both drenched.
-
-About the middle of the afternoon, twelve miles below Lee's Ferry, we
-reached the Soap Creek Rapid of which we had heard so much. The rapid
-had a fall of twenty-five feet, and was a quarter of a mile long. Most
-of the fall occurred in the first fifty yards. The river had narrowed
-down until it was less than two hundred feet wide at the beginning of
-the descent. Many rocks were smattered all through the upper end,
-especially at the first drop. On the very brink or edge of the first
-fall, there was a submerged rock in the centre of the channel, making
-an eight-foot fall over the rock. A violent current, deflected from
-the left shore, shot into this centre and added to the confusion.
-Twelve-foot waves from the conflicting currents, played leap-frog,
-jumping over or through each other alternately. Clearly there was no
-channel on that side. On the right or north side of the stream it
-looked more feasible, as the water shot down a sloping chute over a
-hundred feet before meeting with an obstruction. This came in the
-shape of two rocks, one about thirty feet below the other. To run the
-rapid this first rock would have to be passed before any attempt could
-be made to pull away from the second rock, which was quite close to
-the shore. Once past that there was a clear channel to the end of the
-rapid, if the centre, which contained many rocks, was avoided. Below
-the rapid was the usual whirlpool, then a smaller rapid, running under
-the left wall. This second rapid was the one that had been so fatal
-for Brown. The Soap Creek rapid in many ways was not as bad as some we
-had gone over in Cataract Canyon, but there were so many complications
-that we hesitated a long time before coming to a decision that we
-would make an attempt with one boat, depending on our good luck which
-had brought us through so many times, as much as we depended on our
-handling of the boat.
-
-It was planned that I should make the first attempt while Emery
-remained with the motion-picture camera just below the rock that we
-most feared, with the agreement that he was to get a picture of the
-upset if one occurred, then run to the lower end of the rapid with a
-rope and a life-preserver.
-
-After adjusting life-preservers I returned to my boat and was soon on
-the smooth water above the rapid, holding my boat to prevent her from
-being swept over the rock in the centre, jockeying for the proper
-position before I would allow her to be carried into the current. Once
-in, it seemed but an instant until I was past the first rock, and
-almost on top of the second. I was pulling with every ounce of
-strength, and was almost clear of the rock when the stern touched it
-gently. I had no idea the boat would overturn, but thought she would
-swing around the rock, heading bow first into the stream, as had been
-done before on several occasions. Instead of this she was thrown on
-her side with the bottom of the boat held against the rock while I
-found myself thrown out of the boat, but hanging to the gunwale. Then
-the boat swung around and instantly turned upright while I scrambled
-back into the cockpit. Looking over my shoulder, when I had things
-well in hand again, I saw my brother was still at the camera, white as
-a sheet, but turning at the crank as if our entire safety depended on
-it. After I landed the water-filled boat, however, he confessed to me
-that he had no idea whether he had caught the upset or not, as he may
-have resumed the work when he saw that I was safe.
-
-Then we went to work to find out what damage was done. First we found
-that the case, which was supposed to be waterproof, had a half-inch of
-water inside, but fortunately none of our films were wet. Some plates
-which we had just exposed and which were still in the holders were
-soaked. The cameras also had suffered. We hurriedly wiped off the
-surplus water and piled these things on the shore, then emptied the
-boat of a few barrels of water.
-
-This one experience, I suppose, should have been enough for me with
-that rapid, but I foolishly insisted on making another trial at it
-with the _Edith_, for I felt sure I could make it if I only had
-another chance, and the fact that Emery had the empty boat at the end
-of the rapid and could rescue me if an upset occurred greatly lessened
-the danger. The idea of making a portage, with the loss of nearly a
-day, did not appeal to me.
-
-Emery agreed to this reluctantly, and advised waiting until morning,
-for it was growing dusk, but with the remark "I will sleep better with
-both boats tied at the lower end of the rapid," I returned to the
-_Edith_. To make a long story short I missed my channel, and was
-carried over the rock in the centre of the stream. The _Edith_ had
-bravely mounted the first wave, and was climbing the second comber,
-standing almost on end, seemed to me, when the wave crested over the
-stern while the current shooting it from the side struck the submerged
-bow and she fell back in the water upside down. It was all done so
-quickly, I hardly knew what had occurred, but found myself in the
-water, whirling this way and that, holding to the right oar with a
-death-grip. I wondered if the strings would hold, and felt a great
-relief when the oar stopped slipping down,--as the blade reached the
-ring. It was the work of a second to climb the oar, and I found I was
-under the cockpit. Securing a firm hold on the gunwale, which had
-helped us so often, I got on the outside of the boat, thinking I might
-climb on top. About that time one of the largest waves broke over me,
-knocking me on the side of the head as if with a solid object, nearly
-tearing me from the boat. After that I kept as close to the boat as
-possible, paddling with my feet to keep them clear of rocks. Then the
-suction of the boat caught them and dragged them under, and for the
-rest of the rapid I had all I could do to hang to the boat. As the
-rapid dwindled I began to look for Emery, but was unable to see him,
-for it was now growing quite dark, but I could see a fire on shore
-that he had built. I tried to call but was strangled with the breaking
-waves; my voice was drowned in the roar of the rapid. One of the
-life-preservers was torn loose and floated ahead of me. Finally I got
-an answer, and could see that Emery had launched his boat. As he drew
-near I told him to save the life-preserver, which he did, then
-hurriedly pulled for me. I remarked with a forced laugh, to reassure
-him, "Gee, Emery, this water's cold."
-
-He failed to join in my levity, however, and said with feeling, "Thank
-the good Lord you are here!" and down in my heart I echoed his prayer
-of thanks.
-
-Somehow I had lost all desire to successfully navigate the Soap Creek
-Rapid.
-
-But our troubles were not entirely over. Emery had pulled me in after
-a futile attempt or two, with a hold sometimes used by wrestlers,
-linking his arm in mine, leaning forward, and pulling me in over his
-back I was so numbed by the cold that I could do little to help him,
-after what, I suppose, was about a quarter of an hour's struggle in
-the water; although it seemed much longer than that to me.
-
-We then caught the _Edith_ and attempted to turn her over, but before
-this could be done we were dragged into the next rapid. Emery caught
-up the oars, while I could do nothing but hold to the upturned boat,
-half filled with water, striving to drag us against the wall on the
-left side of the stream. It was no small task to handle the two boats
-in this way, but Emery made it; then, when he thought we were sure of
-a landing, the _Edith_ dragged us into the river again. Two more small
-rapids were run as we peered through the darkness for a landing.
-Finally we reached the shore over a mile below the Soap Creek Rapid.
-We were on the opposite side of the stream from that where we had
-unloaded the _Defiance_. This material would have to stay where it was
-that night.
-
-While bailing the water from the _Edith_ we noticed a peculiar odour,
-and thought for a while that it might be the body of the man who was
-drowned at the ferry, but later we found it came from a green
-cottonwood log that had become water-soaked, and was embedded in the
-sand, close to our landing. It was Emery's turn to do the greater part
-of the camp work that night, while I was content to hug the fire,
-wrapped in blankets, waiting for the coffee to boil.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVIII
-
-
-
-MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS
-
-There was little of the spectacular in our work the next day as we
-slowly and laboriously dragged an empty boat upstream against the
-swift-running current, taking advantage of many little eddies, but
-finding much of the shore swept clean. I had ample opportunity to
-ponder on the wisdom of my attempt to save time by running the Soap
-Creek Rapid instead of making a portage, while we carried our loads
-over the immense boulders that banked the stream, down to a swift
-piece of water, past which we could not well bring the boats or while
-we developed the wet plates from the ruined plate-holders. It was with
-no little surprise that we found all the plates, except a few which
-were not uniformly wet and developed unevenly, could be saved. It took
-a day and a half to complete all this work.
-
-Marble Canyon was now beginning to narrow up with a steep,
-boulder-covered slope on either side, three or four hundred feet high;
-with a sheer wall of dark red limestone of equal height directly above
-that. There was also a plateau of red sandstone and distant walls
-topped with light-coloured rock, the same formations with which we
-were familiar in the Grand Canyon. The inner gorge had narrowed from a
-thousand feet or more down to four hundred feet, the slope at the
-river was growing steeper and gradually disappearing, and each mile of
-travel had added a hundred feet or more to the height of the walls.
-Soon after resuming our journey that afternoon, the slope disappeared
-altogether, and the sheer walls came down close to the water. There
-were few places where one could climb out, had we desired to do so.
-This hard limestone wall, which Major Powell had named the marble
-wall, had a disconcerting way of weathering very smooth and sheer,
-with a few ledges and fewer breaks.
-
-We made a short run that day, going over a few rapids, stopping an
-hour to make some pictures where an immense rock had fallen from the
-cliff above into the middle of the river bed, leaving a forty-foot
-channel on one side, and scarcely any on the other. Below this we
-found a rapid so much like the Soap Creek Rapid in appearance that a
-portage seemed advisable. It was evening when we got the _Edith_ to
-the lower end of this rapid after almost losing her, as we lined her
-down, and she was wedged under a sloping rock that overhung the rapid.
-We had two ropes, one at either end, attached to the boat in this
-case. Emery stood below the rock ready to pull her in when once past
-the rock. There was a sickening crackling of wood as the deck of the
-boat wedged under and down to the level of the water, and at Emery's
-call I released the boat, throwing the rope into the river, and
-hurried to help him. He was almost dragged into the water as the boat
-swung around fortunately striking against a sand-bank, instead of the
-many rocks that lined the shore. We were working with a stream
-different from the Green River, we found, and the _Defiance_ was taken
-from the water the next day and slowly worked, one end at a time, over
-the rocks, up to a level sand-bank, twenty-five or thirty feet above
-the river. Then we put rollers under her, and worked her down past the
-rapid. This work was little to our liking, for the boats, now pretty
-well water-soaked, weighed considerably more than their original five
-hundred pounds' weight.
-
-A few successful plunges soon brought back our former confidence, and
-we continued to run all other rapids that presented themselves. This
-afternoon we passed the first rapid we remembered having seen, where
-we could not land at its head before running it. A slightly higher
-stage of water, however, would have made many such rapids. Just below
-this point we found the body of a bighorn mountain-sheep floating in
-an eddy. It was impossible to tell just how he came to his death.
-There was no sign of any great fall that we could see. He had a
-splendid pair of horns, which we would have liked to have had at home,
-but which we did not care to amputate and carry with us.
-
-On this day's travel, we passed a number of places where the
-marble--which had suggested this canyon's name to Major
-Powell--appeared. The exposed parts were checked, or seamed, and
-apparently would have little commercial value. We passed a shallow
-cave or two this day, then found another cave or hole, running back
-about fifteen feet in the wall, so suitable for a camp that we could
-not refuse the temptation to stop, although we had made but a very
-short run this day. The high water had entered it, depositing
-successive layers of sand on the bottom, rising in steps, one above
-the other, making convenient shelves for maps and journals, pots and
-pans; while little shovelling was necessary to make the lower level of
-sand fit our sleeping bags. A number of small springs, bubbling from
-the walls near by, gave us the first clear water that we had found for
-some time, and a pile of driftwood caught in the rocks, directly in
-front of our cave, added to its desirability for a camp. Firewood was
-beginning to be the first consideration in choosing a camp, for in
-many places the high water had swept the shores clean, and spots which
-might otherwise have made splendid camps were rendered most
-undesirable for this reason.
-
-So Camp Number 47 was made in this little cave, with a violent rapid
-directly beneath us, making a din that might be anything but
-reassuring, were we not pretty well accustomed to it by this time. The
-next day, Sunday, November the 12th, was passed in the same spot. The
-air turned decidedly cold this day, a hard wind swept up the river,
-the sky above was overcast, and we had little doubt that snow was
-falling on the Kaibab Plateau, which we could not see, but which we
-knew rose to the height of 5500 feet above us, but a few miles to the
-northwest of this camp. The sheer walls directly above the river
-dropped down considerably at this point, and a break or two permitted
-us to climb up as high as we cared to go on the red sandstone wall,
-which had lost its level character, and now rose in a steep slope over
-a thousand feet above us. These walls, with no growth but the tussocks
-of bunch-grass, the prickly pear cactus, the mescal, and the yucca,
-were more destitute of growth than any we had seen, excepting the
-upper end of Desolation Canyon, even the upper walls lacking the
-growth of pi�on pine and juniper which we usually associated with
-them. We were now directly below the Painted Desert, which lay to the
-left of the canyon, and no doubt a similar desert was on the
-right-hand side, in the form of a narrow plateau; but we had no means
-of knowing just how wide or narrow this was, before it raised again to
-the forest-covered Buckskin Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau.
-
-The rapid below our camp was just as bad as its roar, we found, on
-running it the next day. Most of the descent was confined to a violent
-drop at the very beginning, but there was a lot of complicated water
-in the big waves that followed. Emery was thrown forward in his boat,
-when he reached the bottom of the chute, striking his mouth, and
-bruising his hands, as he dropped his oars and caught the bulkhead. An
-extra oar was wrenched from the boat and disappeared in the white
-water, or foam that was as nearly white as muddy water ever gets. I
-nearly upset, and broke the pin of a rowlock, the released oar being
-jerked from my hand, sending me scrambling for an extra oar, when the
-boat swept into a swift whirlpool. Emery caught my oar as it whirled
-past him; the other was found a half-mile below in an eddy.
-
-Some of the rapids in the centre of Marble Canyon were not more than
-75 feet wide, with a corresponding violence of water. The whirlpools
-in the wider channels below these rapids were the strongest we had
-seen, and had a most annoying way of holding the boats just when we
-thought we had evaded them. Sometimes there would be a whirlpool on
-either side, with a sharply defined line of division in the centre,
-along which it was next to impossible to go without being caught on
-one side or the other. These whirlpools were seldom regarded as
-serious, for our boats were too wide and heavy to be readily
-overturned in them, although we saved ourselves more than one upset by
-throwing our weight to the opposite side. A small boat would have
-upset. On two occasions we were caught in small whirlpools, where a
-point of rock projected from the shore, turning upstream, splitting a
-swift current and making a very rapid and difficult whirl, where the
-boats were nearly smashed against the walls. Below all such places
-were the familiar boils, or fountains, or shoots, as they are
-variously termed. These are the lower end of the whirlpools, emerging
-often from the quiet water below a rapid with nearly as much violence
-as they disappeared in the rapids above. These would often rise when
-least expected, breaking under the boats, the swift upshoot of water
-giving them such a rap that we sometimes thought we had struck a rock.
-If one happened to be in the centre of a boil when it broke, it would
-send them sailing down the stream many times faster than the regular
-current was travelling, rowing the boat having about as little effect
-on determining its course as if it was loaded on a flat-car. The other
-boat, at times just a few feet away, might be caught in the whirlpools
-that formed at the edge of the fountains, often opening up suddenly
-under one side of the boat, causing it to dip until the water poured
-over the edge, holding it to that one spot in spite of every effort to
-row away.
-
-Then we would strike peaceful water again, a mile or perhaps, so quiet
-that a thin covering of clear water over the top of the silt-laden
-pool beneath, reflecting the tinted walls and the turquoise sky
-beneath its limpid surface. Gems of sunlight sparkled on its bosom and
-scintillated in the ripples left behind by the oars. When seated with
-our backs to the strongest light, and when glancing along the top of
-such a pool instead of into it, the mirror-like surface gave way to a
-peculiar purplish tone which seemed to cover the pool, so that one
-would forget it was roily water, and saw only the iridescent beauty of
-a mountain stream.
-
-The wonderful marble walls--better known to the miners as the blue
-limestone walls--now rose from the water's edge to a height of eight
-or nine hundred feet, the surface of its light blue-gray rock being
-stained to a dark red, or a light red as the case might be, by the
-iron from the sandstone walls above. There were a thousand feet of
-these sandstone layers, red in all its varying hues, capped by the
-four-hundred foot cross-bedded sandstone wall, breaking sheer, ranging
-in tone from a soft buff to a golden yellow, with a bloom, or glow, as
-though illuminated from within. As we proceeded, another layer could
-be seen above this, the same limestone and with the same fossils--an
-examination of the rock-slides told us--as the topmost formation at
-the Grand Canyon. This was not unlike the cross-bedded sandstone in
-colour, but lacked its warmth and richness of tint.
-
-A close, examination of the rocks revealed many colours, that figured
-but little in the grand colour scheme of the canyon as a whole--the
-detailed ornamentation of the magnificent rock structure. A fracture
-of wall would show the true colour of the rock, beneath the stain;
-lime crystals studded its surface, like gems glinting in the sunlight;
-beautifully tinted jasper, resembling the petrified wood found in
-another part of Arizona, was embedded in the marble wall,--usually at
-the point of contact with another formation,--polished by the sands of
-the turbid river.
-
-All this told us that we were coming into our own. Four of the seven
-notable divisions of rock strata found in the Grand Canyon were now
-represented in Marble Canyon, and soon the green shale, which
-underlies the blue limestone, began to crop out by the river as the
-walls grew higher and the stream cut deeper.
-
-One turn of the canyon revealed a break where Stanton hid his
-provisions in a cave--after a second fatality in which two more of
-this ill-fated expedition lost their lives--and climbed out on top.
-Afterwards he re-outfitted with heavier boats and tackled the stream
-again.
-
-Just below this break the scene changed as we made a sharp turn to the
-left. Vasey's Paradise--named by Major Powell after Dr. Geo. W. Vasey,
-botanist of the United States Department of Agriculture--was disclosed
-to view. Beautiful streams gushed from rounded holes, fifty yards
-above the river. The rock walls reminded one of an ivy-covered castle
-of old England, guarded by a moat uncrossed by any drawbridge. It was
-trellised with vines, maidenhair ferns, and water-moss making a vivid
-green background for the golden yellow and burnished copper leaves
-which still clung to some small cottonwood trees--the only trees we
-had seen in Marble Canyon.
-
-In our haste to push on, we left the brass motion-picture tripod head
-on an island, from which we pictured this lovely spot. A rapid was put
-behind us before we noticed our loss, and there was no going back
-then.
-
-Another turn revealed a Gothic arch, or grotto, carved at the bend of
-the wall by the high water, with an overhang of more than a hundred
-feet, and a height nearly as great, for the flood waters ran above the
-hundred-foot stage in this narrow walled section. Then came a gloomy,
-prison-like formation, with a "Bridge of Sighs" two hundred feet above
-a gulch, connecting the dungeon to the perpendicular wall beyond; and
-with a hundred cave-like openings in its sheer sides like small
-windows, admitting a little daylight into its dark interior. The
-sullen boom of a rapid around the turn sounded like the march of an
-army coming up the gorge, so we climbed back into our boats after a
-vain attempt to climb up to some of the caves, and advanced to meet
-our foe. This rapid--the tenth for the day--while it was clear of
-rocks, had an abrupt drop, with powerful waves which did all sorts of
-things to us and to our boats; breaking a rowlock and the four pieces
-of line which held it, and flooding us both with a ton of water. We
-went into camp a short distance below this, in a narrow box canyon
-running back a hundred yards from the river, a gloomy, cathedral-like
-interior with sheer walls rising several hundred feet on three sides
-of us, and with the top of the south wall 2500 feet above us in plain
-sight of our camp, the one camp in Marble Canyon where our sleep was
-undisturbed by the roar of a rapid. But instead of the roar of a
-rapid, a howling wind swept down from the Painted Desert above, piling
-the mingled desert sands and river sands about our beds, scattering
-our camp material over the bottom of the narrow gorge.
-
-Soon after this camp--the fourth and the last in Marble Canyon--was
-left behind us, the walls began to widen out, especially on the
-north-northwest, and by noon we had passed from the narrow, direct
-canyon, into one with slopes and plateaus breaking the sheer walls,
-the wall on the left or southeast side being much the lower of the
-two, and more nearly perpendicular, rising to a height of 3200 feet,
-while the northwest side lifted up to the Kaibab Plateau, one
-point--miles back from the river--rising 6000 feet above us.
-
-We halted at noon beside the Nancoweep Valley. A wide tributary
-heading many miles back in the plateau the right, with a ramified
-series of canyons running into it, and with great expanses of
-sage-covered flats between. Deer tracks were found on these flats,
-deer which came down from the forest of the Buckskin Mountains. This
-was the point selected by Major Powell for the construction of a trail
-when he returned from his voyage of exploration to study the geology
-of this section. The trail, although neglected for many years, is
-still used by prospectors from Kanab, Utah, who make a yearly trip
-into the canyons to do some work on a mineral ledge a few miles below
-here.
-
-What a glorious, exhilarating run we had that day! From here to the
-end of Marble Canyon the rapids were almost continuous, with few
-violent drops and seldom broken by the usual quiet pools. It was the
-finest kind of water for fast travelling, and we made the most of it.
-The only previous run we had made that could in any way compare with
-it was in Whirlpool and Split Mountain canyons, when the high water
-was on. As we travelled, occasional glimpses were had of familiar
-places on Greenland Point--that thirty-mile peninsula of the Kaibab
-Plateau extending between Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon--where we
-had gone deer-hunting, or on photographic expeditions with Rust.
-
-Another valley from the right was passed, then a peak rose before us
-close to the river, with its flat top rising to a height equal to the
-south wall. This was Chuar Butte. Once more we were in a narrow
-canyon, narrowing by this peak, but a canyon just the same. Soon we
-were below a wall we once had photographed from the mouth of the
-Little Colorado; then the stream itself came into view and we were
-soon anchored beside it. This was the beginning of the Grand Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIX
-
-
-
-SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME
-
-How long we had waited for this view! How many memories it
-recalled--and how different it seemed to our previous visit there!
-Then, the high water was on, and the turquoise-tinted mineral water of
-the Colorado Chiquito was backed up by the turbid flood waters of the
-Rio Colorado, forty feet or more above the present level. Now it was a
-rapid stream, throwing itself with wild abandon over the rocks and
-into the Colorado. There was the same deserted stone hut, built by a
-French prospector, many years before, and a plough that he had packed
-in over a thirty-mile trail--the most difficult one in all this rugged
-region! There was the little grass-plot where we pastured the burro,
-while we made a fifteen-mile walk up the bed of this narrow canyon!
-What a hard, hot journey it had been! A year and a half ago we sat on
-that rock, and talked of the day when we should come through here in
-boats! Even then we talked of building a raft, and of loading the
-burro on it for a spin on the flood waters. Lucky for us and for the
-burro that we didn't! We understand the temper of these waters now.
-
-Cape Desolation, a point of the Painted Desert on the west side of the
-Little Colorado, was almost directly above us, 3200 feet high. Chuar
-Butte, equally as high and with walls just as nearly perpendicular,
-extended on into the Grand Canyon on the right side, making the
-narrowest canyon of this depth that we had seen. The Navajo
-reservation terminated at the Little Colorado, although nothing but
-the maps indicated that we had passed from the land of the Red man to
-that of the White. Both were equally desolate, and equally wonderful.
-With the entrance of the new stream the canyon changes its southwest
-trend and turns directly west, and continues to hold to this general
-direction until the northwest corner of Arizona is reached.
-
-But we must be on again! Soon familiar segregated peaks in the Grand
-Canyon began to appear. There was Wotan's Throne on the right, and the
-"Copper Mine Mesa" on the left. Three or four miles below the junction
-a four-hundred foot perpendicular wall rose above us. The burro, on
-our previous visit, was almost shoved off that cliff when the pack
-caught on a rock, and was only saved by strenuous pulling on the
-neck-rope and pack harness. Soon we passed some tunnels on both sides
-of the river where the Mormon miners had tapped a copper ledge. At
-4.15 P.M. we were at the end of the Tanner Trail, the outlet of the
-Little Colorado Trail to the rim above. It had taken seven hours of
-toil to cover the same ground we now sped over in an hour and a
-quarter. Major Powell, in 1872, found here the remnant of a very small
-hut built of mesquite logs, but whether the remains of an Indian's or
-white man's shelter cannot be stated. The trail, without doubt was
-used by the Indians before the white man invaded this region.
-
-The canyon had changed again from one which was very narrow to one
-much more complex, greater, and grander. The walls on top were many
-miles apart; Comanche Point, to our left, was over 4000 feet above us;
-Desert View, Moran Point, and other points on the south rim were even
-higher. On the right we could see an arch near Cape Final on Greenland
-Point, over 5000 feet up, that we had photographed, from the top, a
-few years before. Pagoda-shaped temples--the formation so typical of
-the Grand Canyon--clustered on all sides. The upper walls were similar
-in tint to those in Marble Canyon, but here at the river was a new
-formation; the algonkian, composed of thousands of brilliantly
-coloured bands of rock, standing at an angle--the one irregularity to
-the uniform layers of rock--a remnant of thousands of feet of rock
-which once covered this region, then was planed away before the other
-deposits were placed. All about us, close to the river, was a deep,
-soft sand formed by the disintegration of the rocks above, as
-brilliantly coloured as the rocks from which they came. What had been
-a very narrow stream above here spread out over a thousand feet wide,
-ran with a good current, and seemed to be anything but a shallow
-stream at that.
-
-We had travelled far that day but still sped on,--with a few rapids
-which did not retard, but rather helped us on our way, and with a good
-current between these rapids,--only stopping to camp when a
-three-hundred foot wall rose sheer from the river's edge, bringing to
-an end our basin-like river bottom, where one could walk out on either
-side. It was not necessary to hunt for driftwood this evening, for a
-thicket of mesquite--the best of all wood for a camp-fire--grew out of
-the sand-dunes, and some half-covered dead logs were unearthed from
-the drifted sand, and soon reduced to glowing coals.
-
-Meanwhile, we were enjoying one of those remarkable Arizona desert
-sunsets. Ominous clouds had been gathering in the afternoon, rising
-from the southwest, drifting across the canyon, and piling up against
-the north wall. A few fleecy clouds in the west partially obscured the
-sun until it neared the horizon, then a shaft of sunlight broke
-through once more, telegraphing its approach long before it reached
-us, the rays being visibly hurled through space like a javelin, or a
-lightning bolt, striking peak after peak so that one almost imagined
-they would hear the thunder roll. A yellow flame covered the western
-sky, to be succeeded in a few minutes by a crimson glow. The sharply
-defined colours of the different layers of rock had merged and
-softened, as the sun dropped from sight; purple shadows crept into the
-cavernous depths, while shafts of gold shot to the very tiptop of the
-peaks, or threw their shadows like silhouettes on the wall beyond.
-Then the scene shifted again, and it was all blood-red, reflecting
-from the sky and staining the rocks below, so that distant wall and
-sky merged, with little to show where the one ended and the other
-began. That beautiful haze, which tints, but does not obscure,
-enshrouded the temples and spires, changing from heliotrope to
-lavender, from lavender to deepest purple; there was a departing flare
-of flame like the collapse of a burning building; a few clouds in the
-zenith, torn by the winds so that they resembled the craters of the
-moon, were tinted for an instant around the crater's rims; the clouds
-faded to a dove-like gray; they darkened; the gray disappeared; the
-purple crept from the canyon into the arched dome overhead; the day
-was ended, twilight passed, and darkness settled over all.
-
-We sat silently by the fire for a few minutes, then rose and resumed
-our evening's work. This camp was at a point that could be seen from
-the Grand View hotel, fourteen miles from our home. We talked of
-building a signal fire on the promontory above the camp, knowing that
-the news would be telephoned to home if the fire was seen. But we gave
-up the plan. Although less than twenty miles from Bright Angel Trail,
-we were not safely through by any means. Two boats had been wrecked or
-lost in different rapids less than six miles from this camp. The
-forty-foot fall in the Hance or Red Canyon Rapid was three miles below
-us; the Sockdologer, the Grapevine, and other rapids nearly as large
-followed those; we might be no more fortunate than the others, and a
-delay after once giving a signal would cause more anxiety than no
-signal at all we thought, and the fire was not built.
-
-Particular attention was paid to the loading of the boats the next
-morning. The moving-picture film was tucked in the toes of our
-sleeping bags, and the protecting bags were carefully laced. We were
-not going to take any chances in this next plunge--the much-talked-of
-entrance to the granite gorge. A half-hour's run and a dash through
-one violent rapid landed us at the end of the Hance Trail--unused for
-tourist travel for several years--with a few torn and tattered tents
-back in the side canyon down which the trail wound its way. We half
-hoped that we would find some of the prospectors who make this section
-their winter home either at the Tanner or the Hance Trail, but there
-was no sign of recent visitors at either place, unless it was the
-numerous burro tracks in the sand. These tracks were doubtless made by
-some of the many wild burros that roam all the lower plateaus in the
-upper end of the Grand Canyon.
-
-After a careful inspection of the Hance Rapid we were glad the signal
-fire was not built. It was a nasty rapid. While reading over our notes
-one evening we were amused to find that we had catalogued different
-rapids with an equal amount of fall as "good," "bad," or "nasty," the
-difference depending nearly altogether on the rocks in the rapids. The
-"good rapids" were nothing but a descent of "big water," with great
-waves,--for which we cared little, but rather enjoyed if it was not
-too cold,--and with no danger from rocks; the "bad rapids" contained
-rocks, and twisting channels, but with half a chance of getting
-through. A nasty rapid was filled with rocks, many of them so
-concealed in the foam that it was often next to impossible to tell if
-rocks were there or not, and in which there was little chance of
-running through without smashing a boat. The Hance Rapid was such a
-one.
-
-Such a complication of twisted channels and protruding rocks we had
-not seen unless it was at Hell's Half Mile. It meant a
-portage--nothing less--the second since leaving that other rapid in
-Lodore. So we went to work, carrying our duffle across deep, soft
-sand-dunes, down to the middle of the rapid, where quieted for a
-hundred yards before it made the final plunge. The gathering dusk of
-evening found all material and one boat at this spot, with the other
-one at the head of the rapid, to be portaged the next day. But we did
-not portage this boat. A good night's rest, and the safeguard of a
-boat at the bottom of the plunge made it look much less dangerous, and
-five minutes after breakfast was finished, this boat was beside its
-mate, and we had a reel of film which we hoped would show just how we
-successfully ran this difficult rapid. While going over the second
-section, on the opposite side of the river, Emery was thrown out of
-his boat for an instant when the _Edith_ touched a rock in a
-twenty-five mile an hour current, similar to my first upset in the
-Soap Creek Rapid--the old story: out again; in again; on
-again--landing in safety at the end of the rapid not one whit the
-worse for the spill.
-
-This rapid marks the place where the granite, or igneous rock,
-intrudes, rising at a sharp angle, sloping upward down the stream,
-reaching the height of 1300 feet about one mile below. It marks the
-end of the large deposit of algonkian. The granite, when it attains
-its highest point, is covered with a 200-foot layer of sedimentary
-rock called the tonto sandstone. The top of this formation is exposed
-by a plateau from a quarter of a mile to three miles in width, on
-either side of the granite gorge; the same walls which were found in
-Marble Canyon rise above this. The temples which are scattered through
-the canyon--equal in height, in many cases, to the walls--have their
-foundation on this plateau. These peaks contain the same stratified
-rock with a uniform thickness whether in peak or wall, with little
-displacement and little sign of violent uplift, nearly all this canyon
-being the work of erosion: 5000 feet from the rim to the river; the
-edges of six great layers of sedimentary rock laid bare and with a
-narrow 1300-foot gorge through the igneous rock below--the Grand
-Canyon of Arizona.
-
-The granite gorge seemed to us to be the one place of all others that
-we had seen on this trip that would cause one to hesitate a long time
-before entering, if nothing definite was known of its nature. Another
-person might have felt the same way of the canyons we had passed,
-Lodore or Marble Canyon, for instance. A great deal depends on the
-nerves and digestion, no doubt; and the same person would look at it
-in a different light at different times, as we found from our own
-experiences. Our digestions were in excellent condition just at that
-time, and we were nerved up by the thought that we were going "to the
-plate for a home run" if possible, yet the granite gorge had a
-decidedly sinister look. The walls, while not sheer, were nearly so;
-they might be climbed in many places to the top of the granite; but
-the tonto sandstone wall nearly always overhangs this, breaks sheer,
-and seldom affords an outlet to the plateaus above, except where
-lateral canyons cut through. The rocks are very dark, with dikes of
-quartz, and with twisting seams of red and black granite, the great
-body of rock being made up of decomposed micaceous schists and gneiss,
-a treacherous material to climb. The entrance to this gorge is made on
-a quiet pool with no shore on either side after once well in.
-
-But several parties had been through since Major Powell made his
-initial trip, so we did not hesitate, but pushed on with the current.
-Now we could truly say that we were going home. The Hance Rapid was
-behind us; Bright Angel Creek was about twelve miles away. Soon we
-were in the deepest part of the gorge. Great dikes and uplifts of
-jagged rocks towered above us; and up, up, up, lifted the other walls
-above that. Bissell Point, on the very top, could plainly be seen from
-our quiet pool.
-
-Then came a series of rapids quite different from the Hance Rapid, and
-many others found above. Those others were usually caused in part by
-the detritus or deposit from side canyons, which dammed the stream,
-and what might be a swift stream, with a continuous drop, was
-transformed to a succession of mill-ponds and cataracts, or rapids. In
-nearly every case, in low water such as we were travelling on, the
-deposit made a shore on which we could land and inspect the rapid from
-below. The swift water invariably makes a narrow channel if it has no
-obstruction in its way; it is the quiet stream that makes a wide
-channel. But the rapids we found this day were nearly all different.
-They were seldom caused by great deposits of rock, but appeared to be
-formed by a dike or ledge of hard rock rising from the softer
-rock--the same intrusion being sometimes found on both sides of the
-stream--forming a dam the full width of the channel, over which the
-water made a swift descent, with a long line of interference waves
-below. But for a cold wind which swept up the stream, this style of
-rapid was more to our fancy. These were "good rapids," the "best" we
-had seen. There were few rocks to avoid. Some of the rapids were
-violent, but careful handling took us past every danger. There was
-little chance to make a portage at several of these places had we
-desired to do so. We gave them but a glance from the decks of the
-boats, then dropped into them. In one instance I saw the _Edith_
-literally shoot through a wave bow first, both ends of the boat being
-visible, while her captain was buried in the foam.
-
-We had learned to discriminate by its noise, long before we could see
-a rapid, whether it was filled with rocks, or was merely a descent of
-big water. The latter, often just as impressive as the former, had a
-sullen, steady boom; the rocky rapids had the same sound, punctuated
-by another sound, like the crack of regiments of musketry. All were
-greatly magnified in sound by the narrow, echoing walls. We became so
-accustomed to this noise that we almost forgot it was there, and it
-was only after the long, quiet stretches that the noise was noticed In
-a few instances only we noticed the shattering vibration of air that
-is associated with waterfalls. Still there is noise enough in many
-rapids so that their boom can be heard several miles away from the top
-of the canyons.
-
-Guided by these sounds, and aided by our method of holding the boat in
-mid-stream, while making a reconnaissance, we were quite well aware of
-what we were likely to find before we anchored above a rapid. We were
-never fearful of being drawn into a cataract without having a chance
-to land somewhere. The water is strangely quiet, to a comparatively
-close distance above nearly all rapids. We usually tied up anywhere
-from fifty feet to a hundred yards above a drop, before inspecting it.
-If it was a "big-water" rapid, we usually looked it over standing on
-the seat in the boats, then continued. By signals with the hands, the
-one first over would guide the other, if any hidden rocks or dangerous
-channel threatened. While we did not think much about it, we usually
-noted the places where one might climb out on the plateau. Little
-could be told about the upper walls from the river.
-
-A chilling wind swept up the river, penetrating our soaked garments.
-But we paid little attention to this, only pulling the harder, not
-only to keep the circulation going, but every pull of the oars put us
-that much nearer home. We never paused in our rowing until we anchored
-at 4.30 P.M. under Rust's tramway, close to the mouth of Bright Angel
-Creek. According to the United States Geological Survey there is a
-descent of 178 feet from the head of the Hance Rapid to the end of
-Bright Angel Trail one mile below the creek. We would have a very
-moderate descent in that mile. The run from the Hance Rapid had been
-made in less than five hours.
-
-Our boats were tied in the shadow of the cage hanging from a cable
-sixty feet above. It stretched across a quiet pool, 450 feet
-across--for the river is dammed by d�bris from the creek below, and
-fills the channel from wall to wall. Hurriedly we made our way up to
-Rust's camp,--closed for the winter; for heavy snows would cover the
-North Rim in a few days or a few weeks at the farthest, filling the
-trails with heavy drifts and driving the cougar into the canyon where
-dogs and horses cannot follow. But the latch-string was out for us, we
-knew, had we cared to use the tents. Our signal fire was built a mile
-above the camp, at a spot that was plainly visible on a clear day from
-our home on the other side, six miles away as the crow flies. We had
-often looked at this spot, with a telescope, from the veranda of our
-studio, watching the hunting and sight-seeing parties ride up the bed
-of the stream. We rather feared the drifting clouds and mists would
-hide the fire from view, but now and then a rift appeared, and we knew
-if they were looking they could see its light. Camp No. 51 was made
-close to Bright Angel Creek, that evening, Thursday, October the 16th,
-two months and eight days from the time we had embarked on our
-journey.
-
-Three or four hours were spent in packing our material the next
-morning, so it could be stored in a miners' tunnel, near the end of
-the trail. We would pack little of this out, as we intended to resume
-our river work in a week or ten days. A five-minute run took us over
-the rapid below Bright Angel Creek, and down to a bend in the river,
-just above the Cameron or Bright Angel Trail. Two men--guides from the
-hotel--called to us as our boats swept into view. We made a quick dash
-over the vicious little drop below the bend,--easy for our boats, but
-dangerous enough for lighter craft on account of a difficult
-whirlpool,--and were soon on shore greeting old friends. Up on the
-plateau, 1300 feet above, a trail party of tourists and guides called
-down their welcome. The stores were put in the miners' tunnel as we
-had planned, and the boats were taken above the high-water mark;
-placed in dry dock one might say.
-
-The guides had good news for us and bad news too. Emery's wife had
-been ill with appendicitis nearly all the time we were on our journey.
-We had received letters from her at every post-office excepting Lee's
-Ferry, but never a hint that all was not well. She knew it would break
-up the trip. Pretty good nerve, we thought!
-
-Ragged and weary, but happy; a little lean and over-trained, but
-feeling entirely "fit,"--we commenced our seven-mile climb up the
-trail, every turn of which seemed like an old friend. When 1300 feet
-above the river, our little workshop beside a stream on the
-plateau--only used at intervals when no water can be had on top, and
-closed for three months past--gave us our first cheerless greeting.
-Although little more than a hundred feet from the trail, we did not
-stop to inspect it. Cameron's Indian Garden Camp was also closed for
-the day, and we were disappointed in a hope that we could telephone to
-our home, 3200 feet above. But the tents, under rows of waving
-cottonwoods, and surrounded by beds of blooming roses and glorious
-chrysanthemums, gave us a more cheerful welcome than our little
-building below. We only stopped to quench our thirst in the bubbling
-spring, then began the four-mile climb that would put us on top of the
-towering cliff. Soon we overtook the party we had seen on the plateau.
-Some of the tourists kindly offered us their mules, but mules were too
-slow for us, and they were soon far below us. Calls, faint at first,
-but growing louder as we advanced, came floating down from above. On
-nearing the top our younger brother Ernest, who had come on from
-Pittsburg to look after our business, came running down the trail to
-greet us. One member of a troupe of moving-picture actors, in cowboy
-garb, remarked that we "didn't look like moving-picture explorers";
-then little Edith emerged from our studio just below the head of
-Bright Angel Trail and came skipping down toward us, but stopped
-suddenly when near us, and said smilingly: "Is that my Daddy with all
-those whiskers?"
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XX
-
-
-
-ONE MONTH LATER
-
-Naturally we were very impatient to know just what success we had met
-with in our photographic work. Some of the motion pictures had been
-printed and returned to us. My brother, who meanwhile had taken his
-family to Los Angeles, sent very encouraging reports regarding some of
-the films.
-
-Among the Canyon visitors who came down to inspect the results of our
-trip were Thomas Moran, the famous artist, with his daughter, Miss
-Ruth, whose interest was more than casual. Thomas Moran's name, more
-than any other, with the possible exception of Major Powell's, is to
-be associated with the Grand Canyon. It was his painting which hangs
-in the capital at Washington that first acquainted the American public
-with the wonders of the Canyon. This painting was the result of a
-journey he made with Major Powell, from Salt Lake City to the north
-side of the Canyon, thirty-eight years before. In addition he had made
-most of the cuts that illustrated Major Powell's government report;
-making his sketches on wood from photographs this expedition had taken
-with the old-fashioned wet plates that had to be coated and developed
-on the spot--wonderful photographs, which for beauty, softness, and
-detail are not excelled, and are scarcely equalled by more modern
-plates and photographic results. The only great advantage of the dry
-plates was the fact that they could catch the action of the water with
-an instantaneous exposure, where the wet plates had to have a long
-exposure and lost that action.
-
-Thomas Moran could pick up almost any picture that we made, and tell
-us at once just what section it came from and its identifying
-characteristics. His daughter, Miss Ruth, was just as much interested
-in our trip and its results. She was anxious to know when we would go
-on again and planned on making the trail trip down to the plateau to
-see us take the plunge over the first rough rapid. She was just a
-little anxious to see an upset, and asked if we could not promise that
-one would occur.
-
-A month passed before my brother returned from Los Angeles. His wife,
-who had remained there, was in good health again, and insisted on his
-finishing the trip at once. We were just as anxious to have it
-finished, but were not very enthusiastic about this last part on
-account of some very cold weather we had been having. On the other
-hand, we feared if the trip was not finished then it might never be
-completed. So we consoled ourselves with the thought that it was some
-warmer at the bottom than it was on top, and prepared to make the
-final plunge--350 miles to Needles, with a 1600-foot descent in the
-185 miles that remained of the Grand Canyon.
-
-A foot of snow had fallen two nights before we planned on leaving. The
-thermometer had dropped to zero, and a little below on one occasion,
-during the nights for a week past. Close to the top the trail was
-filled with drifts. The walls were white with snow down to the
-plateau, 3200 feet below; something unusual, as it seldom descends as
-snow lower than two thousand feet, but turns to rain. But a week of
-cold, cloudy weather, accompanied by hard winds, had driven all warmth
-from the canyon, allowing this snow to descend lower than usual. Under
-such conditions the damp cold in the canyon, while not registered on
-the thermometer as low as that on top, is more penetrating. Very
-little sun reaches the bottom of the inner gorge in December and
-January. It is usually a few degrees colder than the inner plateau
-above it, which is open, and does get some sun. These were the
-conditions when we returned to our boats December the 19th, 1911, and
-found a thin covering of ice on small pools near the river.
-
-Our party was enlarged by the addition of two men who were anxious for
-some river experience. One was our younger brother, Ernest. We agreed
-to take him as far as the Bass Trail, twenty-five miles below, where
-he could get out on top and return to our home. The other was a young
-man named Bert Lauzon, who wanted to make the entire trip, and we were
-glad to have him. Lauzon, although but 24 years old, had been a quartz
-miner and mining engineer for some years. Coming from the mountains of
-Colorado, he had travelled over most of the Western states, and a
-considerable part of Mexico, in his expeditions. There was no question
-in our minds about Lauzon. He was the man we needed.
-
-To offset the weight of an extra man for each boat, our supplies were
-cut to the minimum, arrangements having been made with W.W. Bass--the
-proprietor of the Bass Camps and of the Mystic Springs Trail--to have
-some provisions packed in over his trail. What provisions we took
-ourselves were packed down on two mules, and anything we could spare
-from our boats was packed out on the same animals. As we were about
-ready to leave a friendly miner said: "You can't hook fish in the
-Colorado in the winter, they won't bite nohow. You'd better take a
-couple of sticks of my giant-powder along. That will help you get 'em,
-and it may keep you from starving." Under the circumstances it seemed
-like a wise precaution and we took his giant-powder, as he had
-suggested.
-
-The river had fallen two feet below the stage on which we quit a month
-before. A scale of foot-marks on a rock wall rising from the river
-showed that the water twenty-seven feet deep at that spot. No
-measurement was made in the middle of the river channel. The current
-here between two small rapids flows at five and three-fourths miles
-per hour. The width of the stream is close to 250 feet. The high-water
-mark here is forty-five feet above the low-water stage, then the river
-spreads to five hundred feet in width, running with a swiftness and
-strength of current and whirlpool that is tremendous. The highest
-authentic measurement in a narrow channel, of which we know, is one
-made by Julius F. Stone in Marble Canyon. He recorded one spot where
-the high-water mark was 115 feet above the low-water mark. These
-figures might look large at first, but if they are compared with some
-of the floods on the Ohio River, for instance, and that stream were
-boxed in a two hundred foot channel the difference would not be great,
-we imagine.
-
-One of the young men who greeted us when we landed came down with a
-companion to see us embark. On the plateau 1300 feet above, looking
-like small insects against the sky-line, was a trail party, equally
-interested. They did not stand on the point usually visited by such
-parties but had gone to a point about a mile to the west, where they
-had a good view of a short, rough rapid, the little rapid below the
-trail, while it was no place that one would care to swim in, had no
-comparison with this other rapid in violence. We had promised the
-party that we would run this rapid that afternoon, so we spent little
-time in packing systematically, but hurriedly threw the stuff in and
-embarked. Less than an hour later we had made the two-mile run and the
-dash through the short rapid, to the entire satisfaction of all
-concerned.
-
-We camped a short distance below the rapid, just opposite a grave of a
-man whose skeleton had been found halfway up the granite, five years
-before. Judging by his clothes and hob-nailed shoes he was a
-prospector. He was lying in a natural position, with his head resting
-on a rock. An overcoat was buttoned tightly about him. No large bones
-were broken, but he might have had a fall and been injured internally.
-More likely he became sick and died. The small bones of the hands and
-feet had been taken away by field-mice, and no doubt the
-turkey-buzzards had stripped the flesh. His pockets contained Los
-Angeles newspapers of 1900; he was found in 1906. The pockets also
-contained a pipe and a pocket-knife, but nothing by which he could be
-identified. The coroner's jury--of which my brother was a
-member--buried him where he was found, covering the body with rocks,
-for there was no earth.
-
-Such finds are not unusual in this rugged country. These prospectors
-seldom say where they are going, no track is kept of their movements,
-and unless something about their clothes tells who they are, their
-identity is seldom established. The proximity of this grave made us
-wonder how many more such unburied bodies there were along this river.
-We thought too of our friend Smith, back in Cataract Canyon, and
-wondered if we would hear from him again.
-
-Our helpers got a lot of experience in motion-picture making the next
-day, while we ran our boats through a number of good, strong rapids,
-well known locally as the Salt Creek Rapid, Granite Falls or Monument
-Rapid, the Hermit, the Bouchere, and others. This was all new to the
-boys, and provided some thrilling entertainment for them. When a
-difficult passage was safely made Bert would wave his hat and yell
-"Hoo" in a deep, long call that would carry above the roar of the
-rapids, then he and Ernest would follow along the shore with their
-cameras, as these rapids all had a shore on one side or the other. The
-sun shone on the river this day, and we congratulated ourselves on
-having made the most of our opportunities.
-
-In our first rapid the next morning, we had to carry our passengers
-whether we wanted to or not. There was no shore on either side. In
-such plunges they would lie down on the deck of the boat behind the
-oarsman, holding to the raised bulkhead, ducking their heads when an
-oncoming wave prepared to break over them. Then they would shake
-themselves as a water-spaniel does, and Bert with a grin would say,
-"Young fellows, business is picking up!"
-
-Ernest agreed, too, that he had never seen anything in Pittsburg that
-quite equalled it. If the rapid was not bad, they sat upright on the
-deck, but this made the boats top-heavy, and as much of the oarsman's
-work depended on swinging his weight from side to side, it was
-important that no mistake should be made about this distribution of
-weight. Often the bottom of a boat would show above the water as it
-listed to one side. At such a time a person sitting on the raised deck
-might get thrown overboard.
-
-Before starting on this last trip we had thought it would be only
-right to give our younger brother a ride in a rapid that would be sure
-to give him a good ducking, as his experience was going to be short.
-But the water and the wind, especially in the shadows, was so very
-cold that we gave this plan up, and avoided the waves as much as
-possible. He got a ducking this morning, however, in a place where we
-least expected it. It was not a rapid, just smooth, very swift water,
-while close to the right shore there was one submerged rock with a
-foot of water shooting over it, in such a way that it made a "reverse
-whirl" as they are called in Alaska--water rolling back upstream, and
-from all sides as well, to fill the vacuum just below the rock. This
-one was about twelve feet across; the water disappeared as though it
-was being poured down a manhole.
-
-The least care, or caution, would have taken me clear this place; but
-the smooth water was so deceptive, and was so much stronger than I had
-judged it to be, that I found myself caught sideways to the current,
-hemmed in with waves on all sides of the boat, knocked back and forth,
-and resisted in all my efforts to pull clear. The boat was gradually
-filling with the splashing water. Ernest was lying on the deck,
-hanging on like grim death, slipping off, first on one side, then on
-the other, and wondering what was going to happen. So was I. To be
-held up in the middle of a swift stream was a new experience, and I
-was not proud of it. The others passed as soon as they saw what had
-happened, and were waiting in an eddy below. Perhaps we were there
-only one minute, but it seemed like five. I helped Ernest into the
-cockpit. About that time the boat filled with splashing water and sunk
-low, the stream poured over the rock and into the boat, and she upset
-instantly.
-
-Ernest had on two life-preservers, and came up about thirty feet
-below, swimming very well considering that he was weighted with heavy
-clothes and high-topped shoes. The boys pulled him in before he was
-carried against a threatening wall. Meanwhile, I held to the boat,
-which was forced out as soon as she was overturned, and climbed on
-top, or rather on the bottom. I was trying to make the best of things
-and was giving a cheer when some one said, "There goes your hatch
-cover and you've lost the motion-picture camera."
-
-Perhaps I had. My cheering ceased. The camera had been hurriedly
-shoved down in the hatch a few minutes before.
-
-On being towed to shore, however, we found the camera had not fallen
-out. It had been shoved to the side less than one inch, but that
-little bit had saved it. It was filled with water, though, and all the
-pictures were on the unfinished roll in the camera, and were ruined.
-We had been in the ice-cold water long enough to lose that glow which
-comes after a quick immersion and were chilled through; but what
-bothered me more than anything else was the fact that I had been
-caught in such a trap after successfully running the bad rapids above.
-We made a short run after that so as to get out of sight of the
-deceptive place, then proceeded to dry out. The ruined film came in
-handy for kindling our camp-fire.
-
-We were now in the narrowest part of the upper portion of the Grand
-Canyon, the distance from rim to rim at one point being close to six
-miles. The width at Bright Angel varied from eight to fourteen miles.
-The peaks rising from the plateau, often as high as the canyon walls,
-and with flat tops a mile or more in width, made the canyon even
-narrower, so that at times we were in canyons close to a mile in
-depth, and little over four miles across at the tops.
-
-In this section of the granite there were few places where one could
-climb out. Nearly all the lateral canyons ended quite a distance above
-the river, then fell sheer; the lower parts of the walls were quite
-often smooth-surfaced, where they were polished by the sands in the
-stream. The black granite in such cases resembled huge deposits of
-anthracite coal. Sections of the granite often projected out of the
-water as islands, with the softer rock washed away, the granite being
-curiously carved by whirling rocks and the emery-like sands. Holes
-three and four feet deep were worn by small whirling rocks, and
-grooves were worn at one place by growing willows working back and
-forth in the water, the sand, strange to say, having less effect on
-the limbs than it had on the hard rocks.
-
-About noon of the day following this upset we reached the end of the
-Bass Trail and another cable crossing, about sixty feet above the
-water. Three men were waiting for us, and gave a call when we rowed in
-sight of their camp. One was Lauzon's brother, another was Cecil Dodd,
-a cowboy who looked after Bass' stock, and the breaking of his horses,
-the third was John Norberg, an "old timer" and an old friend as well,
-engaged at that time in working some asbestos and copper claims.
-
-The granite was broken down at this point, and another small deposit
-of algonkian was found here. There were intrusions, faults, and
-displacements both in these formations and in the layers above. These
-fractures exposed mineral seams and deposits of copper and asbestos on
-both sides of the river, some of which Bass had opened up and located,
-waiting for the day when there would be better transportation
-facilities than his burros afforded.
-
-This was not our first visit to this section. On other occasions we
-had descended by the Mystic Spring (or Bass) Trail, on the south side,
-crossed on the tramway and were taken by Bass over some of his many
-trails, on the north side. We had visited the asbestos claims, where
-the edge of a blanket formation of the rock known as serpentine,
-containing the asbestos, lay exposed to view, twisting around the head
-of narrow canyons, and under beetling cliffs. We went halfway up the
-north rim trail, through Shinumo and White canyons, our objective
-point on these trips being a narrow box canyon which contained a large
-boulder, rolled from the walls above, and wedged in the flume-like
-gorge far above our heads. This trail continues up to the top, going
-over the narrow neck which connects Powell's Plateau--a segregated
-section of thickly wooded surface several miles in extent--with the
-main extent of the Kaibab Plateau.
-
-Ernest, though slightly affected with tonsillitis, was loath to leave
-us here. It was zero weather on top, we were told, and it looked it.
-The walls and peaks were white with snow. He would not have an easy
-trip. The drifted snow was only broken by the one party that we found
-at the river, and quite likely it would be very late when he arrived
-at the ranch. John went up with him a few miles to get a horse for the
-ride home the next day. Ernest took with him a few hurriedly written
-letters and the exposed plates. The film we were going to save was
-lost in the upset.
-
-On inspecting the provisions which were packed in here we found the
-grocers had shipped the order short, omitting, besides other
-necessities, some canned baked beans, on which we depended a great
-deal. This meant one of two things. We would have to make a quicker
-run than we had planned on, or would have to get out of the canyon at
-one of the two places where such an exit could easily be made.
-
-The M. P. as our motion-picture camera was called--and which was
-re-christened but not abbreviated by Bert, as "The Member of
-Parliament"--had to be cleaned before we could proceed. It took all
-this day, and much of the next, to get the moisture and sand out of
-the delicate mechanism, and have it running smoothly again. After it
-was once more in good condition Emery announced that he wanted to work
-out a few scenes of an uncompleted "movie-drama." The action was
-snappy. The plot was brief, but harmonized well with the setting, and
-the "props." Dodd, who was a big Texan, was cast for the role of horse
-thief and bad man in general. Bert's brother, Morris Lauzon, was the
-deputy sheriff, and had a star cut from the top of a tomato can to
-prove it. John was to be a prospector. He would need little rehearsing
-for this part. In addition, he had not been out where he could have
-the services of a barber for six months past, which was all the
-better. John had a kind, quiet, easy-going way that made friends for
-him on sight. He was not consulted about the part he was to play, but
-we counted on his good nature and he was cast for the part. Emery, who
-was cast for the part of a mining engineer, arrived on the scene in
-his boat, after rounding the bend above the camp, tied up and climbed
-out over the cliffs to view the surrounding country.
-
-The hidden desperado, knowing that he was being hunted, stole the boat
-with its contents, and made his escape. The returning engineer arrived
-just in time to see his boat in the middle of the stream, and a
-levelled rifle halted him until the boat was hidden around the bend.
-At that moment the officer joined him, and a hurried consultation was
-held. Then the other boat, which had been separated from its
-companion, pulled into sight, and I was hailed by the men on shore.
-They came aboard and we gave chase. Could anything be better? The
-thief naturally thought he was safe, as he had not seen the second
-boat! After going over a few rapids, he saw a fire up in the cliffs,
-on the opposite side of the river. He landed, and climbed up to the
-camp where John was at work. John shared his camp fare with him, and
-directed him to a hidden trail. The pursuers, on finding the abandoned
-boat, quietly followed the trail, and surprised Dodd in John's camp.
-He was disarmed and sent across the river in the tramway, accompanied
-by the deputy, and was punished as he richly deserved to be.
-
-This was the scenario. Bert handled the camera. Emery was the
-playwright, director, and producer. All rights reserved.
-
-Everything worked beautifully. The film did not get balled up in the
-cogs, as sometimes happened. The light was good. Belasco himself could
-not have improved on the stage-setting. The trail led over the
-wildest, and most picturesque places imaginable. Dodd made a splendid
-desperado, and acted as if he had done nothing but steal horses and
-dodge the officers all his life. A pile of driftwood fifty feet high
-and with a tunnel underneath made a splendid hiding place for him
-while the first boat was being tied. Being a cowpuncher, it may be
-that he did not handle the oars as well as an experienced riverman,
-but any rapid could be used for an insert. The deputy, though
-youthful, was determined and never lost sight of the trail. The
-engineer acted his part well and registered surprise and anger, when
-he found how he had been tricked. John, who had returned, humoured us,
-and dug nuggets of gold out of limestone rocks, where no one would
-have thought of looking for them. The fact that the tramway scene was
-made before any of the others did not matter. We could play our last
-act first if we wanted to. All we had to do was to cut the film and
-fasten it on to the end. Emery was justly proud of his first efforts
-as a producer. We were sorry this film had not been sent out with
-Ernest.
-
-This thrilling drama will not be released in the near future. One day
-later we found that a drop of water had worked into the lens cell at
-the last upset. This fogged the lens. We focussed with a scale and had
-overlooked the lens when cleaning the camera. Nothing but a very faint
-outline showed on the film. We had all the film we needed for a week
-after this, for kindling our fires.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXI
-
-
-
-WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT
-
-In recording our various mishaps and upsets in these pages, it may
-seem to the reader as if I have given undue prominence to the part I
-took in them. If so, it has not been from choice, but because they
-happened in that way. No doubt a great deal of my trouble was due to
-carelessness. After I had learned to row my boat fairly well I
-sometimes took chances that proved to be anything but advisable,
-depending a good deal on luck, and luck was not always with me. My
-brother was less hasty in making his decisions, and was more careful
-in his movements, with the result that his boat had few marks of any
-kind, and he had been more fortunate than I with the rapids.
-
-It is my duty to record another adventure at this point, in which we
-all three shared, each in a different manner. This time I am going to
-give my brother's record of the happenings that overtook us about four
-o'clock in the afternoon of December the 24th, less than three hours
-after we left our friends at the Bass Trail with "best wishes for a
-Merry Christmas," and had received instructions from John "to keep our
-feet dry"
-
-My brother's account follows:
-
-     "The fourth rapid below the Bass Trail was bad, but after
-     looking it over we decided it could be run. We had taken
-     chances in rapids that looked worse and came through
-     unharmed; if we were successful here, it would be over in a
-     few minutes, and forgotten an hour later. So we each made
-     the attempt."
-
-     "Lauzon had gone near the lower end of the rapid, taking the
-     left shore, for a sixty-foot wall with a sloping bench on
-     top rose sheer out of the water on the right. The only shore
-     on the right was close to the head of the rapid, a small
-     deposit or bank of earth and rock. The inner gorge here was
-     about nine hundred feet deep."
-
-     "Ellsworth went first, taking the left-hand side. I picked
-     out a course on the right as being the least dangerous; but
-     I was scarcely started when I found myself on a nest of
-     jagged rocks, with violent water all about me, and with
-     other rocks, some of them submerged, below me. I climbed out
-     on the rocks and held the boat."
-
-     "If the others could land below the rapid and climb back,
-     they might get a rope to me and pull me off the rocks far
-     enough to give me a new start, but they could not pull the
-     boat in to shore through the rough water. A person thinks
-     quickly under such circumstances, I had it all figured out
-     as soon as I was on the rocks. The greatest trouble would be
-     to hold the boat if she broke loose."
-
-     "Then I saw that the _Defiance_ was in trouble. She caught
-     in a reverse whirl in the very middle of the pounding rapid,
-     bouncing back and forth like a great rubber ball. Finally
-     she filled with the splashing water, sank low, and the water
-     pouring over the rock caught the edge of the twelve-hundred
-     pound boat and turned her over as if she were a toy; my
-     brother was holding to the gunwale when she turned. Still
-     she was held in the whirl, jumping as violently as ever,
-     then turned upright again and was forced out. Ellsworth had
-     disappeared, but came up nearly a hundred feet below,
-     struggling to keep on top but going down with every breaking
-     wave. When the quieter water was reached, he did not seem to
-     have strength enough to swim out, but floated, motionless,
-     in a standing position, his head kept up by the
-     life-preservers. The next rapid was not over fifty yards
-     below. If he was to be saved it must be done instantly."
-
-     "I pried the boat loose, jumped in as she swung clear, and
-     pulled with all my might, headed toward the centre of the
-     river. I was almost clear when I was drawn over a dip, bow
-     first, and struck a glancing blow against another rock I had
-     never seen. There was a crash, and the boards broke like
-     egg-shells. It was all done in a few moments. The _Edith_
-     was a wreck, I did not know how bad. My brother had
-     disappeared. Lauzon was frantically climbing over some large
-     boulders trying to reach the head of the next rapid, where
-     the boat was held in an eddy. My boat was not upset, but the
-     waves were surging through a great hole in her side. She was
-     drawn into an eddy, close to the base of the wall, where I
-     could tie up and climb out. It seemed folly to try the lower
-     end with my filled boat. Climbing to the top of the rock, I
-     could see half a mile down the canyon, but my brother was
-     nowhere to be seen and I had no idea that he had escaped. I
-     was returning to my wrecked boat when Bert waved his arms,
-     and pointed to the head of the rapid. Going back once more,
-     I saw him directly below me at the base of the sheer rock,
-     in an opening where the wall receded. He had crawled out
-     twenty feet above the next rapid. Returning to my wrecked
-     boat, I was soon beside him. He was exhausted with his
-     struggle in the icy waves; his outer garments were frozen. I
-     soon procured blankets from my bed, removed the wet clothes,
-     and wrapped him up. Lauzon, true to our expectations of what
-     he would do when the test came, swam out and rescued the
-     _Defiance_ before she was carried over the next rapid. He
-     was inexperienced at the oars and had less than two hours
-     practice after he had joined us. It was a tense moment when
-     he started across, above the rapid. But he made it! Landing
-     with a big grin, he exclaimed, 'Young fellows, business is
-     picking up!' then added, 'And we're losing lots of good
-     pictures!'"
-
-     "These experiences were our Christmas presents that year.
-     They were not done up in small packages."
-
-     "We repaired the boat on Christmas day. Three smashed side
-     ribs were replaced with mesquite, which we found growing on
-     the walls. The hole was patched with boards from the loose
-     bottom. This was painted; canvas was tacked over that and
-     painted also, and a sheet of tin or galvanized iron went
-     over it all. This completed the repair and the _Edith_ was
-     as seaworthy as before."
-
-     This is Emery's account of the "Christmas Rapid."
-
-I will add that the freezing temperature of the water and the struggle
-for breath in the breaking waves left me exhausted and at the mercy of
-the river. An eddy drew me out of the centre of the stream when I had
-given up all hope of any escape from the next rapid. I had seen my
-brother on the rock below the head of the rapid and knew there was no
-hope from him. As I was being drawn back into the current, close to
-the end of the sheer wall on the right, my feet struck bottom on some
-d�bris washed down from the cliff. I made three efforts to stand but
-fell each time, and finally crawled out on my hands and knees. I had
-the peculiar sensation of seeing a rain-storm descending before my
-eyes, although I knew no such thing existed; every fibre in my body
-ached and continued to do so for days afterward; and the moment I
-would close my eyes to sleep I would see mountainous waves about me
-and would feel myself being whirled head over heels just as I was in
-that rapid; but this rapid, strange to say, while exceedingly rough
-and swift, did not contain any waves that we would have considered
-large up to this time. In other words, it depended on the
-circumstances whether it was bad or not. When standing on the shore,
-picking a channel, it appeared to be a moderately bad rapid, in which
-a person, aided with life-preservers, should have little difficulty in
-keeping on top, at least half the time. After my battle, in which, as
-far as personal effort went, I had lost, and after my providential
-escape, that one rapid appeared to be the largest of the entire
-series.
-
-It is difficult to describe the rapids with the foot-rule standard,
-and give an idea of their power. One unfamiliar with "white water"
-usually associates a twelve-foot descent or a ten-foot wave with a
-similar wave on the ocean. There is no comparison. The waters of the
-ocean rise and fall, the waves travel, the water itself, except in
-breakers, is comparatively still. In bad rapids the water is whirled
-through at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, in some cases much
-swifter; the surface is broken by streams shooting up from every
-submerged rock; the weight of the river is behind it, and the waves,
-instead of tumbling forward, quite as often break upstream. Such
-waves, less than six feet high, are often dangers to be shunned. After
-being overturned in them we learned their tremendous power, a power we
-would never have associated with any water, before such an experience,
-short of a waterfall.
-
-There is a certain amount of danger in the canyons,--plenty of it.
-Still, in most cases, with care and forethought, much of it can be
-avoided. We think we are safe in saying that half of the parties who
-have attempted a passage through these canyons have met with
-fatalities. Most of these have occurred in Cataract Canyon, not
-because it is any worse than other sections,--certainly no worse than
-the Grand Canyon,--but because it is easily entered from the quiet,
-alluring water of the lower Green River. Without a doubt each
-successful expedition is responsible in a way for others' attempts. In
-nearly every instance the unfortunate ones have underestimated the
-danger, and have attempted the passage with inadequate boats, such as
-Smith had for instance, undecked and without air chambers. Both of
-these are imperative for safety.
-
-We had the benefit of the experiences of others. In addition, our
-years of work in the canyons had robbed them of their imaginary
-dangers, and--while we trust that we are not entirely without
-imagination--much of their weirdness and glamour with which they are
-inseparable to the idealist and the impressionist. Each of these
-upsets could have been avoided by a portage had we desired to make
-one, but success in other rapids made us a little reckless and ready
-to take a chance.
-
-Beyond getting our flour wet on the outside, we suffered very little
-loss to our cargo. We placed the two flour sacks beside the fires each
-evening, until the wet flour dried to a crust. We continued to use out
-of the centre of the sacks as though nothing had ever happened.
-
-Bert and I each had a little cough the next morning, but it
-disappeared by noon. Beyond that, we suffered no great inconvenience
-from our enforced bath. Sleeping in the open, with plenty of healthful
-exercise, kept us physically fit.
-
-The cold air and the cold water did not seem to bother the others, but
-I could not get comfortably warm during this cold snap. Added to this,
-it took me some time to get over my scare, and I could see all kinds
-of danger, in rapids, where Emery could see none. I insisted on
-untying the photographic cases from the boats, and carrying them
-around a number of rapids before we ran them. It is hardly necessary
-to say that no upset occurred in these rapids.
-
-Then came a cold day, with a raw wind sweeping up the river. A coating
-of ice covered the boats and the oars. We had turned directly to the
-north along the base of Powell's plateau, and were nearing the end of
-a second granite gorge, with violent rapids and jagged rocks. Emery
-made the remark that he had not had a swim for some time. In a
-half-hour we came to a rapid with two twelve-foot waves in the centre
-of the stream, with a projecting point above that would have to be
-passed, before we could pull out of the swift-running centre. Emery
-got his swim there. I was just behind and was more fortunate. I never
-saw anything more quickly done. Before the boat was fully overturned
-he swung an oar, so that it stuck out at an angle from the side of the
-boat, and used the oar for a step; an instant later he had cut the oar
-loose, and steered toward the shore. Bert threw him a rope from the
-shore, and he was pulled in. He was wearing a thin rubber coat fitting
-tightly about his wrists, tied about his neck, and belted at the
-waist. This protected him so thoroughly that he was only wet from the
-waist down.
-
-If we were a little inclined to be proud of our record above Bright
-Angel we had forgotten all about it by this time. We were scarcely
-more than sixty miles from home and had experienced three upsets and a
-smashed boat, all in one week.
-
-Just at the end of the second granite section we made our first
-portage since leaving Bright Angel. Bert and I worked on the boats,
-while Emery cooked the evening meal.
-
-Hot rice soup, flavoured with a can of prepared meat, was easily and
-quickly prepared, and formed one of the usual dishes at these meals.
-It contained a lot of nutriment, and the rice took up but little space
-in the boats. Sometimes the meat was omitted, and raisins were
-substituted. Prepared baked beans were a staple dish, but were not in
-our supply on this last part of the trip. We often made "hot cakes"
-twice a day; an excuse for eating a great deal of butter and honey, or
-syrup. None of these things were luxuries. They were the best
-foodstuff we could carry. We seemed to crave sweet stuff, and used
-quantities of sugar. We could carry eggs, when packed in sawdust,
-without trouble but did not carry many. We had little meat; what we
-had was bacon, and prepared meats of the lunch variety. Cheese was our
-main substitute for meat. It was easily carried and kept well. Dried
-peaches or apricots were on the bill for nearly every meal, each day's
-allowance being cooked the evening before. We tried several condensed
-or emergency foods, but discarded them all but one, for various
-reasons. The exception was Erbeswurst, a patent dried soup
-preparation. Other prepared soups were carried also. I must not forget
-the morning cereal. It was Cream of Wheat, easily prepared; eaten--not
-served, perhaps devoured would be a better word--with sugar and
-condensed cream, as long as it lasted, then with butter. Any remainder
-from breakfast was fried for other meals. Each evening, we would make
-some baking-powder biscuit in a frying-pan. A Dutch oven is better,
-but had too much weight. The appellation for such bread is "flapjack"
-or "dough-god." When I did the baking they were fearfully and
-wonderfully made. Cocoa, which was nourishing, often took the place of
-coffee. In fact our systems craved just what was most needed to build
-up muscle and create heat. We found it was useless to try to catch
-fish after the weather became cold. The fish would not bite.
-
-On the upper end of our journey we carried no tobacco, as it happened
-that Jimmy as well as ourselves were not tobacco users. There were no
-alcoholic stimulants. When Bert joined us, a small flask, for
-medicinal purposes only, was taken along. The whiskey was scarcely
-touched at this time. Bert enjoyed a pipe after his meals, but
-continued to keep good-natured even when his tobacco got wet, so
-tobacco was not absolutely necessary to him.
-
-Uninteresting and unromantic these things may be, but they were most
-important to us. We were only sorry the supply was not larger. While
-we never stinted ourselves, or cut the allowance of food, the amount
-was growing smaller every day, and it was not a question any more
-whether we would go out or not, to get provisions, to "rustle" as Bert
-called it, but where we would go out. We might go up Cataract Creek or
-Ha Va Su Creek, as it is sometimes called. We had been to the mouth of
-this canyon on foot, so there would be no danger of missing it. The Ha
-Va Supai Indians, about two hundred in number, lived in this lateral
-canyon about seven or eight miles from the river. An agent and a
-farmer lived with them, and might be able to sell us some provisions;
-if not, it would be fifty miles back to our home. The trail was much
-more direct than the river. The great drawback to this course was the
-fact that Ha Va Su Canyon, sheer-walled, deep, and narrow, contained a
-number of waterfalls, one of them about 175 feet high. The precipice
-over which it fell was nothing but a mineral deposit from the water,
-building higher every year. Formerly this was impassable, until some
-miners, after enlarging a sloping cave, had cut a winding stairway in
-it, which allowed a descent to be made to the bottom of the fall. A
-recent storm had remodelled all the falls in Cataract Creek Canyon,
-cutting out the travertine in some places, piling it up in others. A
-great mass of cottonwood trees were also mixed with the d�bris. The
-village, too, had been washed away and was then being rebuilt. We had
-been told that the tunnel was filled up, and as far as we knew no one
-had been to the river since the flood.
-
-The other outlet was Diamond Creek Canyon, much farther down the
-river. We would decide when we got to Ha Va Su just what we would do.
-
-Tapeets Creek, one mile below our camp,--a stream which has
-masqueraded under the title of Thunder River, and about which there
-has been considerable speculation,--proved to be a stream a little
-smaller than Bright Angel Creek, flowing through a narrow slot in the
-rocks, and did not fall sheer into the river, as has been reported.
-Perhaps a small cascade known as Surprise Falls which we passed the
-next day has been confused with Tapeets Creek. This stream corkscrews
-down through a narrow crevice and falls about two hundred feet, close
-to the river's edge. We are told that the upper end of Tapeets Creek
-is similar to this, but on a much larger scale.
-
-Just opposite this fall a big mountain-sheep jumped from under an
-overhanging ledge close to the water, and stared curiously at us, as
-though he wondered what strange things those were coming down with the
-current. It is doubtful if he ever saw a human being before. This
-sight sent us scrambling in our cases for cameras and firearms; and it
-was not the game laws, but a rusted trigger on the six-shooter
-instead, that saved the sheep. He finally took alarm and scampered
-away over the rocks, and we had no mutton stew that night.
-
-We had one night of heavy rain, and morning revealed a little snow
-within three hundred feet of the river, while a heavy white blanket
-covered the upper cliffs. It continued to snow on top, and rained on
-us nearly all this day. Emery took this opportunity to get the drop of
-moisture out of the lens, and put the camera in such shape that we
-could proceed with our picture making. A short run was made after this
-work was completed.
-
-The camp we were just leaving was about three miles above Kanab
-Canyon. The granite was behind us, disappearing with a steep descent
-much as it had emerged at the Hance Trail. There was also a small
-deposit of algonkian. This too had been passed, and we were back in
-the limestone and sandstone walls similar to the lower end of Marble
-Canyon. While the formations were the same, the canyon differed. The
-layers were thicker, the red sandstone and the marble walls were
-equally sheer; there was no plateau between. What plateau this canyon
-contained lay on top of the red sandstone. Few peaks rose above this.
-The canyon had completed its northern run and was turning back again
-to the west-southwest with a great sweep or circle. Less than an
-hour's work brought us to Kanab Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXII
-
-
-
-SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE
-
-In the mud at Kanab Canyon we saw an old footprint of some person who
-had come down to the river through this narrow, gloomy gorge. It was
-here that Major Powell terminated his second voyage, on account of
-extreme high water. A picture they made showed their boats floated up
-in this side canyon. Our stage was much lower than this. F.S.
-Dellenbaugh, the author of "A Canyon Voyage," was a member of this
-second expedition. This book had been our guide down to this point; we
-could not have asked for a better one. Below here we had a general
-idea of the nature of the river, and had a set of the government maps,
-but we had neglected to provide ourselves with detailed information
-such as this volume gave us.
-
-Evening of the following day found us at Cataract Creek Canyon, but
-with a stage of water in the river nearly fifty feet lower than that
-which we had seen a few years before. The narrow entrance of this
-great canyon gives no hint of what it is like a few miles above.
-
-The Indian village is in the bottom of a 3000-foot canyon, half a mile
-wide and three miles long, covered with fertile fields, peach and
-apricot orchards. It even contained a few fig trees. Below the village
-the canyon narrowed to a hundred yards, with a level bottom, covered
-with a tangle of wild grape vines, cactus, and cottonwood trees. This
-section contained the two largest falls, and came to an end about four
-miles below the first fall. Then the canyon narrowed, deep and gloomy,
-until there was little room for anything but the powerful, rapidly
-descending stream. At the lower end it was often waist deep and
-fifteen or twenty feet wide. It was no easy task to go through this
-gorge. The stream had to be crossed several times. The canyon
-terminated in an extremely narrow gorge 2500 feet deep, dark and
-gloomy, one of the most impressive gorges we have ever seen. The main
-canyon was similar, with a few breaks on the sides, those breaks being
-ledges, or narrow sloping benches that would extend for miles, only to
-be brought to an abrupt end by side canyons. There are many
-mountain-sheep in this section, but we saw none either time. We could
-see many fresh tracks where they had followed these ledges around, and
-had gone up the narrow side canyon. It was cold in the main canyon,
-and no doubt the sheep could be found on the plateaus, which were more
-open, and would get sun when the sun shone. This plateau was 2500 feet
-above us. At the turn of the canyon we could see the other walls 2000
-feet above that. The rapids in the section just passed had been widely
-separated and compared well with those of Marble Canyon, not the worst
-we had seen, but far from being tame. There was plenty of shore room
-at each of these rapids.
-
-Cactus of different species was now a feature of the scenery. The
-ocotilla or candlewood with long, lash-like stalks springing from a
-common centre--that cactus, which, when dried, needs only a lighted
-match to set it afire--flourishes in the rocky ledges. A species of
-small barrel-cactus about the size of a man's head, with fluted sides,
-or symmetrical vertical rows of small thorned lumps converging at the
-top of the "nigger-head," as they are sometimes called, grows in great
-numbers in crevices on the walls. The delicate "pin cushion" gathered
-in clusters of myriad small spiny balls. The prickly pear, here in Ha
-Va Su Canyon, were not the starved, shrivelled, mineral-tinted cactus
-such as we found at the beginning of our trip. Instead they were green
-and flourishing, with large fleshy leaves joining on to each other
-until they rise to a height of three feet or more and cover large
-patches of ground to the utter exclusion of all other growth. What a
-display of yellow and red these desert plants put forth when they are
-in bloom! A previous visit to Ha Va Su was made in the month of May
-when every group of prickly pear was a riot of pure colour. All this
-prolific growth is made possible by the extreme heat of the summer
-months aided in the case of those plants and trees which flourish in
-the fertile soil of Ha Va Su by the sub-irrigation and the spray from
-the fall.
-
-After making an inventory of our provisions we concluded not to try
-the tedious and uncertain trip up Cataract Creek. With care and good
-fortune we would have enough provisions to last us to Diamond Creek.
-
-With our run the next day the inner gorge continued to deepen, the
-walls drew closer together, so that we now had a narrow gorge hemming
-us in with 3000-foot walls from which there was no escape. They were
-about a fourth of a mile apart at the top. A boat at the foot of one
-of these walls was merely an atom. The total depth of the canyon was
-close to 4500 feet. There is nothing on earth to which this gorge can
-be compared. Storm-clouds lowered into the chasm in the early morning.
-The sky was overcast and threatening. We were travelling directly west
-again, and no sunlight entered here, even when the sun shone. The
-walls had lost their brighter reds, and what colour they had was dark
-and sombre, a dirty brown and dark green predominating. The mythology
-of the ancients, with their Inferno and their River Styx, could hardly
-conjure anything more supernatural or impressive than this gloomy
-gorge.
-
-There were a few bad rapids. One or two had no shore, others had an
-inclination to run under one wall and had to be run very carefully. If
-we could not get down alongside of a rapid, we could usually climb out
-on the walls at the head of the rapid and look it over from that
-vantage point. The one who climbed out would signal directions to the
-others, who would run it at once, and continue on to the next rapid.
-They would have its course figured out when the last boat arrived.
-
-One canyon entered from the left, level on the bottom, and about one
-hundred feet wide; it might be a means of outlet from this canyon, but
-it is doubtful, for the marble has a way of ending abruptly and
-dropping sheer, with a polished surface that is impossible to climb.
-
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section. The camp was exceptionally
-good. A square-sided, oblong section of rock about fifty feet long had
-fallen forward from the base of the cliff. This left a cave-like
-opening which was closed at one end with our dark-room tent. High
-water had placed a sandy floor, now thoroughly dry, in the bottom.
-Under the circumstances we could hardly ask for anything better. Of
-driftwood there was none, and our camp-fires were made of mesquite
-which grew in ledges in the rocks; in one case gathered with a great
-deal of labour on the shore opposite our camp, and ferried across on
-our boats. If a suitable camp was found after 3.30 P.M., we kept it,
-rather than run the risk of not finding another until after dark.
-
-Another day, January 1, 1912, brought us to the end of this gorge and
-into a wider and more open canyon, with the country above covered with
-volcanic peaks and cinder cones. Blow-holes had broken through the
-canyon walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of lava
-down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with several hundred
-feet of lava. This condition extended down the canyon for twenty miles
-or more. Judging by the amount of lava the eruption must have
-continued for a great while. Could one imagine a more wonderful
-sight--the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood from above! What
-explosions and rending of rocks there must have been when the two
-elements met. The river would be backed up for a hundred miles! Each
-would be shoved on from behind! There was no escape! They must fight
-it out until one or the other conquered. But the fire could not keep
-up forever, and, though triumphant for a period, it finally succumbed,
-and the stream proceeded to cut down to the original level.
-
-Two miles below the first lava flow we saw what we took to be smoke
-and hurried down wondering if we would find a prospector or a cattle
-rustler. We agreed, if it was the latter, to let them off if they
-would share with us. But the smoke turned out to be warm springs, one
-of them making quite a stream which fell twenty feet into the river.
-Here in the river was a cataract, called Lava Falls, so filled with
-jagged pieces of the black rock that a portage was advisable. The
-weather had not moderated any in the last week, and we were in the
-water a great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks at
-the edge of the rapids. We would work in the water until numbed with
-the cold, then would go down to the warm springs and thaw out for a
-while. This was a little quicker than standing by the fire, but the
-relief was only temporary. This portage was finished the next morning.
-
-Another portage was made this same day, and the wide canyon where
-Major Powell found some Indian gardens was passed in the afternoon.
-The Indians were not at home when the Major called. His party felt
-they were justified in helping themselves to some pumpkins or squash,
-for their supplies were very low, and they could not go out to a
-settlement--as we expected to do in a day or two--and replenish them.
-
-We found the fish would not bite, just as our friend, the miner, had
-said, but we did succeed in landing a fourteen-pound salmon, in one of
-the deep pools not many miles from this point, and it was served up in
-steaks the next day. If our method of securing the salmon was
-unsportsmanlike, we excused ourselves for the methods used, just as
-Major Powell justified his appropriation of the Indians' squash. If
-that fish was ever needed, it was then, and it was a most welcome
-addition to our rapidly disappearing stock of provisions. We were only
-sorry we had not taken more "bait."
-
-The next day we did see a camp-fire, and on climbing the shore, found
-a little old prospector, clad in tattered garments, sitting in a
-little dugout about five feet square which he had shovelled out of the
-sand. He had roofed it with mesquite and an old blanket. A rapid, just
-below, made so much noise that he did not hear us until we were before
-his door. He looked at the rubber coats and the life-preservers, then
-said, with a matter-of-fact drawl, "Well, you fellows must have come
-by the river!" After talking awhile he asked: "What do you call
-yourselves?" This question would identify him as an old-time Westerner
-if we did not already know it. At one time it was not considered
-discreet to ask any one in these parts what their name was, or where
-they were from. He gave us a great deal of information about the
-country, and said that Diamond Creek was about six miles below. He had
-come across from Diamond Creek by a trail over a thousand foot ridge,
-with a burro and a pack mule, a month before. He had just been out
-near the top on the opposite side, doing some assessment work on some
-copper claims, crossing the river on a raft, and stated that on a
-previous occasion he had been drawn over the rapid, but got out.
-
-When he learned that we had come through Utah, he stated that he
-belonged near Vernal, and had once been upset in the upper canyons,
-about twenty years before. He proved to be the Snyder of whom we had
-heard at Linwood, and also from the Chews, who had given him a horse
-so he could get out over the mountains. Yet here was, a thousand miles
-below, cheerful as a cricket, and sure that a few months at the most
-would bring him unlimited wealth. He asked us to "share his chuck"
-with him, but we could see nothing but a very little flour, and a
-little bacon, so pleaded haste and pushed on for Diamond Creek.
-
-The mouth of this canyon did not look unlike others we had seen in
-this section, and one could easily pass it without knowing that it ran
-back with a gentle slope for twenty miles, and that a wagon road came
-down close to the river. It contained a small, clear stream. The
-original tourist camp in the Grand Canyon was located up this canyon.
-We packed all our plates and films, ready to take them out. The
-supplies left in the boats when we went out the next morning were:
-
-     5 pounds of flour, partly wet and crusted.
-     2 pounds mildewed Cream of Wheat.
-     3 or 4 cans (rusty) of dried beef.
-     Less than one pound of sugar.
-
-We carried a lunch out with us. This was running a little too close
-for comfort.
-
-The mouth of Diamond Creek Canyon was covered with a growth of large
-mesquite trees. Cattle trails wound through this thorny thicket down
-to the river's edge. The trees thinned out a short distance back, and
-the canyon widened as it receded from the river. A half mile back from
-the river was the old slab building that had served as headquarters
-for the campers. Here the canyon divided, one containing the small
-stream heading in the high walls to the southeast; while the other
-branch ran directly south, heading near the railroad at the little
-flag-station of Peach Springs, twenty-three miles distant.
-It was flat-bottomed, growing wider and more valley-like with every
-mile, but not especially interesting to one who had seen the glory of
-all the canyons. Floods had spoiled what had once been a very passable
-stage road, dropping 4000 feet in twenty miles, down to the very
-depths of the Grand Canyon. Some cattle, driven down by the snows,
-were sunning themselves near the building. Our appearance filled them
-with alarm, and they "high tailed it" to use a cattle man's
-expression, scampering up the rocky slopes.
-
-A deer's track was seen in a snow-drift away from the river. On the
-sloping walls in the more open sections of this valley grew the
-stubby-thorned chaparral. The hackberry and the first specimens of the
-palo verde were found in this vicinity. The mesquite trees seen at the
-mouth of the canyon were real trees--about the size of a large apple
-tree--not the small bushes we had seen at the Little Colorado. All the
-growth was changing as we neared the lower altitudes and the mouth of
-the Grand Canyon, being that of the hot desert, which had found this
-artery or avenue leading to the heart of the rocky plateaus and had
-pushed its way into this foreign land.
-
-Even the animal life of the desert has followed this same road.
-Occasional Gila monsters, which are supposed to belong to the hot
-desert close to the Mexico line, have been found at Diamond Creek, and
-lizards of the Mojave Desert have been seen as far north as the foot
-of Bright Angel Trail.
-
-But we saw little animal life at this time. There were occasional
-otters disporting themselves near our boats, in one instance unafraid,
-in another raising a gray-bearded head near our boat with a startled
-look in his eyes. Then he turned and began to swim on the surface
-until our laughter caused him to dive. Tracks of the civet-cat or the
-ring-tailed cat--that large-eyed and large-eared animal, somewhat like
-a raccoon and much resembling a weasel--were often seen along the
-shores. The gray fox, the wild-cat, and the coyote, all natives of
-this land, kept to the higher pi�on-covered hills. The beaver seldom
-penetrates into the deep canyons because of the lack of vegetation,
-but is found in all sections in the open country from the headwaters
-to the delta in Mexico.
-
-We went out by this canyon on January the 5th, and returned Sunday,
-January the 8th, bringing enough provisions to last us to the end of
-the big canyon. We imagined we would have no trouble getting what we
-needed in the open country below that. We sent some telegrams and
-received encouraging answers to them before returning. With us were
-two brothers, John and Will Nelson, cattle men who had given us a
-cattle man's welcome when we arrived at Peach Springs. There was no
-store at Peach Springs, and they supplied us with the provisions that
-we brought back. They drove a wagon for about half the distance, then
-the roads became impassable, so they unhitched and packed their
-bedding and our provisions in to the river. The Nelsons were anxious
-to see us run a rapid or two.
-
-We found the nights to be just as cold on top as they ever get in this
-section--a little below zero--although the midday sun was warm enough
-to melt the snow and make it slushy. I arrived at the river with my
-feet so swollen that I had difficulty in walking, a condition brought
-on by a previous freezing they had received, being wet continually by
-the icy water in my boat--which was leaking badly since we left Bright
-Angel--and the walk out through the slush. I was glad there was little
-walking to do when once at the river, and changed my shoes for
-arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.
-
-On the upper part of our trip there were occasional days when Emery
-was not feeling his best, while I had been most fortunate and had
-little complaint to make; now things seemed to be reversed. Emery, and
-Bert too, were having the time of their lives, while I was "getting
-mine" in no small doses.[6]
-
-We had always imagined that the Grand Canyon lost its depth and
-impressiveness below Diamond Creek. We were to learn our mistake. The
-colour was missing, that was true, for the marble and sandstone walls
-were brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones of
-the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still the Grand Canyon.
-We were in the granite again--granite just as deep as any we had seen
-above, it may have been a little deeper, and in most cases it was very
-sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and sandstone rose
-above that, just as they had above Kanab Canyon. The light-coloured
-walls could not be seen.
-
-Many of the rapids of this lower section were just as bad as any we
-had gone over; one or two have been considered worse by different
-parties. Two hours after leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a rapid
-that made us catch our breath. It was in two sections--the lower one
-so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat. The upper part
-fell about twenty feet we should judge and was bad enough. It was a
-question if we could run this and keep from going over the lower part!
-If we made a portage, our boats would have to be taken three or four
-hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid was too strong to
-line a boat down. We concluded to risk running the first part. Bert
-climbed to the head of the second section of the rapid, where a
-projecting point of granite narrowed the stream, and formed a quiet
-eddy just above the foaming plunge. If we could keep out of the centre
-and land here we would be safe. Our shoes were removed, our trousers
-were rolled to our knees and we removed our coats. If we had to swim
-there, we were going to be prepared. The life-preservers were well
-inflated, and tied; then we made the plunge, Emery taking the lead, I
-following close behind. Our plan was to keep as near the shore as
-possible. Once I thought it was all over when I saw the _Edith_ pulled
-directly for a rock in spite of all Emery could do to pull away.
-Nothing but a rebounding wave saved him. I went through the same
-experience. Several times we were threatened with an upset, but we
-landed in safety. The portage was short and easy. Flat granite rocks
-were covered with a thin coat of ice. The boats were unloaded and slid
-across, then dropped below the projecting rock. The _Defiance_ skidded
-less than two feet and struck a projecting knob of rock the size of a
-goose egg. It punctured the side close to the stern, fortunately above
-the water line, and the wood was not entirely broken away.
-
-Two miles below this we found another bad one. This was lined while
-Bert got supper up in a little sloping canyon; about as uncomfortable
-a camp as we had found. Many of the rapids run the next day were
-violent. The river seemed to be trying to make up for lost time. We
-passed a canyon coming from the south containing two streams, one
-clear, and one muddy. The narrowest place we had seen on the river was
-a rapid run this day, not over forty feet wide. Evening brought us to
-a rapid with a lateral canyon coming in from each side, that on the
-right containing a muddy stream. The walls were sheer and jagged close
-to the rapid, with a break on the rugged slopes here and there. A
-sloping rock in the middle of the stream could be seen in the third
-section of the rapid. This was Separation Rapid, the point where the
-two Howland brothers and Dunn parted company with Major Powell and his
-party.
-
-From our camp at the left side we could easily figure out a way to the
-upper plateau. Above that they would have a difficult climb as far as
-we could tell. That they did reach the top is well known. They met a
-tragic fate. The second day after getting out they were killed by some
-Indians--the Shewits Utes--who had treated them hospitably at first
-and provided them with something to eat. That night a visiting Indian
-brought a tale of depredations committed by some miners against
-another section of their tribe. These men were believed to be the
-guilty parties, and they were ambushed the next morning. Their fate
-remained a mystery for a year; then a Ute was seen with a watch
-belonging to one of the men. Later a Mormon who had a great deal of
-influence with the Indians got their story from them, and reported to
-Major Powell what he had learned. It was a deplorable and a tragic
-ending to what otherwise was one of the most successful, daring, and
-momentous explorations ever undertaken on this continent.
-
-We find there is a current belief that it was cowardice and fear of
-this one rapid that caused these men to separate from the party. The
-more one hears of this separation, the more it seems that it was a
-difference of opinion on many matters, and not this one rapid, that
-caused them to leave. These men had been trappers and hunters, one
-might say pioneers, and one had been with Major Powell before the
-river exploration. They had gone through all the canyons, and had come
-through this far without a fatality. They had seen a great many rapids
-nearly as bad as this, and several that were worse, if one could judge
-by its nature when we found it. They were not being carried by others,
-but had charge of one boat. They did smash one boat in Disaster Rapid
-in Lodore Canyon, and at that time they claimed Major Powell gave them
-the wrong signal. This caused some feeling.
-
-At the time of the split, the food question was a serious one. There
-were short rations for a long time; in fact there was practically no
-food. After an observation, Major Powell informed them that they were
-within forty-five miles of the Virgin River, in a direct line. Much of
-the country between the end of the canyon and the Virgin River was
-open, a few Mormon settlements could be found up the Virgin Valley. He
-offered them half of the small stock of provisions, when they
-persisted in leaving, but they refused to take any provisions
-whatever, feeling sure that they could kill enough game to subsist on.
-This one instance would seem to be enough to clear them of the stigma
-of cowardice. The country on top was covered with volcanic cinders.
-There was little water to be found, and in many ways it was just as
-inhospitable as the canyon. The cook had a pan of biscuits, which he
-left on a rock for them, after the men had helped the party lift the
-boats over the rocks at the head of the rapid. After landing in safety
-around a bend which hid them from sight, the boating party fired their
-guns, hoping they would hear the report, and follow in the abandoned
-boat. It is doubtful if they could hear the sound of the guns, above
-the roar of the rapid. If they did, they paid no attention to it. The
-younger Howland wished to remain with the party, but threw his lot
-with his brother, when he withdrew.
-
-While these men did not have the Major's deep scientific interest in
-the successful completion of this exploration, they undoubtedly should
-have stayed with their leader, if their services were needed or
-desired. It is more than likely that they were insubordinate; they
-certainly made a misguided attempt, but in spite of these facts it
-scarcely seems just to brand them as cowards. Two days after they
-left, the boating party was camped at the end of the canyons.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIII
-
-
-
-THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS
-
-The first section of Separation Rapid was run the first thing in the
-morning, a manoeuvre that was accomplished by starting on the left
-shore and crossing the swift centre clear to the other shore. This
-allowed us to reach some quiet water near a small deposit of rock and
-earth at the base of the sheer wall. Two feet of water would have
-covered this deposit; likewise two feet of water would have given us a
-clear channel over this second section. As it was, the rapid was
-rough, with many rocks very near the surface. Directly across from us,
-close to the left shore, was what looked like a ten-foot geyser, or
-fountain of water. This was caused by a rock in the path of a strong
-current rebounding from the shore. The water ran up on the side near
-the wall, then fell on all sides. It was seldom the water had force
-enough to carry to the top of a rock as large as that. This portage of
-the second section was one of the easiest we had made. By rolling a
-few large rocks around we could get a stream water across our small
-shore large enough to float an empty boat with a little help, so we
-lightened them of the cargo and floated them through our canal. While
-running the third section the _Edith_ was carried up on the sloping
-rock in the middle of the stream; she paused a moment, then came down
-like a shot and whirled around to the side without mishap. This made
-the thirteenth rapid in which both boats were lined or portaged. In
-three other rapids one boat was run through and one was portaged. Half
-of all these rapids were located in the Grand Canyon.
-
-All this time we were anxiously looking forward to a rapid which Mr.
-Stone had described as being the worst in the entire series, also the
-last rapid we would be likely to portage and had informed us that
-below this particular rapid everything could be run with little or no
-inspection. Naturally we were anxious to get that rapid behind us. It
-was described as being located below a small stream flowing from the
-south. The same rapid was described by Major Powell as having a bold,
-lava-capped escarpment at the head of the rapid, on the right. We had
-not seen any lava since leaving Diamond Creek, and an entry in my
-notes reads, "we have gone over Stone's 'big rapid' three times and it
-is still ahead of us." The knowledge that there was a big rapid in the
-indefinite somewhere that was likely to cause us trouble seemed to
-give us more anxious moments than the many unmentioned rapids we were
-finding all this time. We wondered how high the escarpment was, and if
-we could take our boats over its top. We tried to convince ourselves
-that it was behind us, although sure that it could not be. But the
-absence of lava puzzled us. After one "bad" rapid and several "good"
-rapids we came to a sharp turn in the canyon. Emery was ahead and
-called back, "I see a little stream"; Bert joined with "I see the
-lava"; and the "Bold Escarpment Rapid," as we had been calling it for
-some time, was before us. It was more than a nasty rapid, it was a
-cataract!
-
-What a din that water sent up! We had to yell to make ourselves heard.
-The air vibrated with the impact of water against rock. The rapid was
-nearly half a mile long. There were two sections near its head
-staggered with great rocks, forty of them, just above or slightly
-submerged under the surface of the water. Our low stage of water
-helped us, so that we did not have to line the boats from the ledge,
-eighty feet above the water, as others had done. The rapid broke just
-below the lower end of the sheer rock, which extended twenty feet
-beyond the irregular shore. The _Edith_ went first, headed upstream,
-at a slight angle nearly touching the wall, dropping a few inches
-between each restraining stroke of the oars. Bert crouched on the bow,
-ready to spring with the rope, as soon as Emery passed the wall and
-headed her in below the wall. Jumping to the shore, he took a snub
-around a boulder and kept her from being dragged into the rapid. Then
-they both caught the _Defiance_ as she swung in below the rock, and
-half the battle was won before we tackled the rapid.
-
-Our days were short, and we did not take the boats down until the next
-day; but we did carry much of the camp material and cargo halfway down
-over ledges a hundred feet above the river. For a bad rapid we were
-very fortunate in getting past it as easily as we did. Logs were laid
-over rocks, the boats were skidded over them about their own length
-and dropped in again. Logs and boats were lined down in the swift, but
-less riotous water, to the next barrier, which was more difficult. A
-ten-foot rounded boulder lay close to the shore, with smaller rocks,
-smooth and ice-filmed, scattered between. Powerful currents swirled
-between these rocks and disappeared under two others, wedged closely
-together on top. Three times the logs were snatched from our grasp as
-we tried to bridge them across this current, and they vanished in the
-foam, to shoot out end first, twenty feet below and race away on the
-leaping water. A boat would be smashed to kindling-wood if once
-carried under there. At last we got our logs wedged, and an hour of
-tugging, in which only two men could take part at the same time,
-landed both boats in safety below this barrier. We shot the remainder
-of the rapid on water so swift that the oars were snatched from our
-hands if we tried to do more than keep the boats straight with the
-current. That rapid was no longer the "Bold Escarpment," but the "Last
-Portage" instead, and it was behind us.
-
-The afternoon was half gone when we made ready pull away from the Last
-Portage. There were other rapids, but scarcely a pause was made in our
-two-hour run, and we camped away from the roar of water. The canyon
-was widening out a little at a time; the granite disappeared in the
-following day's run, at noon. Grass-covered slopes, with seeping
-mineral springs, took the place of precipitous walls; they dropped to
-2500 feet in height; numerous side canyons cut the walls in regular
-sections like gigantic city blocks, instead of an unbroken avenue.
-Small rapids continued to appear, there were a few small islands, and
-divided currents, so shallow they sometimes kept us guessing which one
-to take, but we continued to run them all without a pause. We would
-have run out of the canyon that day but for one thing. Five
-mountain-sheep were seen from our boats in one of the sloping grassy
-meadows above the river. We landed below, carried our cameras back,
-and spent half an hour in trying to see them again, but they had taken
-alarm.
-
-Placer claim locations and fresh burro tracks were seen in the sand at
-our last Grand Canyon camp, and a half mile below us we could see out
-into open country. We found the walls, or the end of the table-land,
-to be about two thousand feet high, with the canyon emerging at a
-sharp angle so that a narrow ridge, or "hogs-back" lay on the left
-side of the stream. Once out in the open the walls were seen to be
-quite steep, but could be climbed to the top almost any place without
-trouble. Saturday, January the 13th, we were out of the canyon at
-last, and the towering walls, now friendly, now menacing, were behind
-us. Three hundred and sixty-five large rapids, and nearly twice as
-many small rapids, were behind us and the dream of ten years was an
-accomplished fact. But best of all, there were no tragedies or
-fatalities to record. Perhaps we did look a little the worse for wear,
-but a few days away from the river would repair all that. The boats
-had a bump here and there, besides the one big patch on the _Edith_; a
-little mending and a little caulking would put both the _Edith_ and
-_Defiance_ in first-class condition.
-
-There is little of interest to record of our 175-mile run to Needles,
-California. It was a land of desolation--an extension of the Mojave
-Desert on the south, and the alkaline flats and mineral mountains of
-Nevada on the north, of Death Valley and the Funeral Mountains of
-California to the northwest--a burned-out land of grim-looking
-mountains extending north and south across our way; a dried-out,
-washed-out, and wind-swept land of extensive flats and arroyos; a land
-of rock and gravel cemented in marls and clay; ungraced with any but
-the desert plants,--cactus and thorny shrubs,--with little that was
-pleasing or attractive. A desert land it is true, but needing only the
-magic touch of water to transform much of it into a garden spot. Even
-as it was, a few months later it would be covered with the flaming
-blossoms of the desert growth, which seem to try to make amends in one
-or two short months for nearly a year of desolation.
-
-A wash ran along the base of the plateau from which we had emerged. An
-abandoned road and ferry showed that this had once been a
-well-travelled route. The stream had a good current and we pulled
-away, only stopping once to see the last of our plateau before a turn
-and deepening banks hid it from view. We wondered if the water ever
-dropped in a precipitous fall over the face of the wall and worked
-back, a little every year, as it does at Niagara. We could hardly
-doubt that there were some such falls back in the dim past when these
-canyons were being carved.
-
-In the middle of the afternoon we passed a ranch or a house with a
-little garden, occupied by two miners, who hailed us from the shore. A
-half-mile below was the Scanlon Ferry, a binding tie between Arizona,
-on the south and what was now Nevada, on the north, for we had reached
-the boundary line shortly after emerging from the canyon. We still
-travelled nearly directly west. The ferry was in charge of a
-Cornishman who also had as pretty a little ranch as one could expect
-to find in such an unlikely place. A purling stream of water, piped
-from somewhere up in the hills, had caused the transformation. The
-ranch was very homey with cattle and horses, sheep and hogs, dogs and
-cats, all sleek and contented-looking. The garden proved that this
-country had a warm climate, although we were not suffering from heat
-at that time. An effort was being made to grow some orange trees, but
-with little promise of success; there were fig trees and date-palms,
-with frozen dates hanging on the branches, one effect of the coldest
-winter they had seen in this section.
-
-The rancher told us he could not sell us anything that had to be
-brought in, for it was seventy miles to the railroad, but we could
-look over such supplies as he had. It ended by his selling us a
-chicken, two dozen eggs, five pounds of honey, and ten pounds of
-flour,--all for $2.50. We did not leave until the next morning, then
-bought another jar of honey, for we had no sugar, and two-thirds of
-the first jar was eaten before we left the ferry.
-
-We pulled away in such a hurry the next morning that we forgot an axe
-that had been carried with us for the entire journey. A five-hour run
-brought us to the mouth of the Virgin River, a sand-bar a mile wide,
-and with a red-coloured stream little larger than Cataract Creek
-winding through it. We had once seen this stream near its head waters,
-a beautiful mountain creek, that seemed to bear no relation to this
-repulsive-looking stream that entered from the north. A large,
-flat-topped, adobe building, apparently deserted, stood off at one
-side of the stream. This was the head of navigation for flat-bottomed
-steamboats that once plied between here and the towns on the lower end
-of the river. They carried supplies for small mines scattered through
-the mountains and took out cargoes of ore, and of rock salt which was
-mined back in Nevada.
-
-It was here at the Virgin River that Major Powell concluded his
-original voyage of exploration. Some of his men took the boats on down
-to Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles; afterwards two of the party
-continued on to the Gulf. The country below the Virgin River had been
-explored by several parties, but previous to this time nothing
-definite was known of the gorges until this exploration by this most
-remarkable man. The difficulties of this hazardous trip were increased
-for him by the fact that he had lost an arm in the Civil War.
-
-It is usually taken for granted that the United States government was
-back of this exploration. This was true of the second expedition, but
-not of the first. Major Powell was aided to a certain extent by the
-State College of Illinois, otherwise he bore all the expense himself.
-We received $10,000 from the government to apply on the expenses of
-the second trip.
-
-We felt that we had some reason to feel a justifiable pride for having
-duplicated, in some ways, this arduous journey. It was impossible for
-us to do more than guess what must have been the feelings and
-anxieties of this explorer. Added to the fact that we had boats,
-tested and constructed to meet the requirements of the river, and the
-benefit of others' experiences, was a knowledge that we were not
-likely to be precipitated over a waterfall, or if we lost everything
-and succeeded in climbing out, that there were a few ranches and
-distant settlements scattered through the country.
-
-But we had traversed the same river and the same canyons which change
-but little from year to year, and had succeeded beyond our fondest
-hopes in having accomplished what we set out to do.
-
-The Black Mountains, dark and forbidding, composed of a hard rock
-which gave a metallic clink, and decorated with large spots of white,
-yellow, vermilion, and purple deposits of volcanic ashes, were entered
-this afternoon. The peaks were about a thousand feet high. The passage
-between is known as Boulder Canyon. Here we met two miners at work on
-a tunnel, or drift, who informed us that it was about forty miles to
-Las Vegas, Nevada, and that it was only twenty-five miles from the
-mouth of Las Vegas Wash, farther down the river, to this same town and
-the railroad.
-
-Fort Callville--an abandoned rock building, constructed by the
-directions of Brigham Young, without windows or roof, and surrounded
-by stone corrals--was passed the next day. At Las Vegas Wash the river
-turned at right angles, going directly south, holding with very little
-deviation to this general direction until it empties into the Gulf of
-California nearly five hundred miles away. The river seemed to be
-growing smaller as we got out in the open country. Like all Western
-rivers, when unprotected by canyons, it was sinking in the sand.
-Sand-bars impeded our progress at such places as the mouth of the
-Wash. But we had a good current, without rapids in Black Canyon, which
-came shortly below, and mile after mile was put behind us before we
-camped for the night.
-
-An old stamp-mill, closed for the time, but in charge of three men who
-were making preparations to resume work, was passed the next day. They
-had telephone communication with Searchlight, Nevada, twenty odd miles
-away, and we sent out some telegrams in that way. More sand-bars were
-encountered the next day, and ranches began to appear on both sides of
-the river. We had difficulty on some of these bars. In places the
-river bed was a mile wide, with stagnant pools above the sand, and
-with one deep channel twisting between. At Fort Mojave, now an Indian
-school and agency, we telephoned to some friends in Needles, as we had
-promised to do, telling them we would arrive about noon of the
-following day. We made a mistake in not camping at the high ground by
-the "fort" that night, for just below the river widened again and the
-channel turned out in the centre. It was getting dark and we had
-entered this before noticing which way it turned, and had a hard pull
-back to the shore, for we had no desire to camp out there in the
-quicksand. The shore was little more desirable. It was a marsh,
-covered with a growth of flags and tules but with the ground frozen
-enough so that we did not sink. Our last camp--No. 76--was made in
-this marsh. There we spent the night, hidden like hunted savages in
-the cane-brake, while an Indian brass band played some very good music
-for an officers' ball, less than half a mile away.
-
-We were up and away with the sun the next morning. On nearing Needles,
-a friend met us on the outskirts of the town and informed us that they
-had arranged what he called an official landing and reception. At his
-request we deferred going down at once, but busied ourselves instead
-at packing our cargo, ready for shipping. Our friend had secured the
-services of a motion-picture operator and our own camera was sent down
-to make a picture of the landing, which was made as he had arranged.
-
-We landed in Needles January 18, 1912; one month from the time of our
-start from Bright Angel Trail, with a total of one hundred and one
-days spent along the river. In that time our camps had been changed
-seventy-six times.
-
-Our two boats, highly prized as souvenirs of our twelve hundred mile
-trip, and which had carried us through three hundred and sixty-five
-big rapids, over a total descent of more than five thousand feet, were
-loaded on cars ready for shipment; the _Edith_ to Los Angeles, the
-_Defiance_ to the Grand Canyon.
-
-Among other mail awaiting us was the following letter, bearing the
-postmark of Hite, Utah:
-
-     "KOLB BROS.,
-
-     "DEAR FRIENDS:
-
-     "Well I got here at last after seventeen days in Cataract
-     Canyon. The old boat will stand a little quiet water but
-     will never go through another rapid. I certainly played
-     'ring-a-round' some of those rocks in Cataract Canyon; I
-     tried every scheme I had ever heard of, and some that were
-     never thought of before. At the last rapid in Cataract I
-     carried all my stuff over the cliff, then tried to line the
-     boat from the narrow ledge. The boat jerked me into the
-     river, but I did not lose my hold on the chain and climbed
-     on board. I had no oars, but managed to get through without
-     striking any rocks, and landed a mile and a half below the
-     supplies. I hope the 'movies' are good.[7]
-
-     "Sincerely yours,
-
-     "CHAS. SMITH."
-
-
-
-
-CONCLUSION. HOW I WENT TO MEXICO
-
-
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIV
-
-
-
-ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD
-
-A westward-bound train was bearing me across the Mojave Desert one day
-in May. In a few swiftly passing hours we had made a six-thousand foot
-descent from the plateau with its fir and aspen-covered mountain, its
-cedar and pi�on-clothed foot-hills, and its extensive forests of
-yellow pine. Crimson and yellow-flowered cactus, sage and chaparral,
-succeeded the pines. The cool mountains had given way to burned-out,
-umber-coloured hills, rock-ribbed arroyos, and seemingly endless
-desert; and the sun was growing hotter every minute.
-
-If the heat continued to increase, I doubted if I would care to take a
-half-planned Colorado River trip down to the Gulf. Visions of the
-California beaches, of fishing at Catalina and of horseback rides over
-the Sierra's trails, nearly unsettled my determination to stop at
-Needles, on the California side of the river. This was my vacation!
-Why undergo all the discomfort of a voyage on a desert stream, when
-the pleasures and comforts of the Pacific beckoned? One thing was
-sure, if I was not successful in securing a boat at Needles, the very
-next train would find me on board, bound for the Western Slope. By
-mid-afternoon the chaparral had disappeared and only the cactus
-remained--the ocotilla, covered with a million flowers, wave upon wave
-of crimson flame, against the yellow earth. Violet-veiled mountains
-appeared in the west, marking the southern trend of the Colorado. The
-air was suffocating. The train-created wind was like a blast from a
-furnace; yet with the electric fans whirring, with blinds drawn and
-windows closed to keep the withering air _out_, it seemed a little
-less uncomfortable in the car, in spite of the unvitalized air, than
-under the scorching sun.
-
-We were beside the Colorado at last. I had a good view of the stream
-below, as we crossed the bridge--the Colorado in flood, muddy,
-turbulent, sweeping onward like an affrighted thing,--repulsive, yet
-with a fascination for me, born of an intimate acquaintance with the
-dangers of this stream. The river had called again! The heat was
-forgotten, the visions of the coast faded, for me the train could not
-reach Needles, ten miles up the river, quickly enough.
-
-With my brother, I had followed this stream down to Needles, through a
-thousand miles of canyon. I had seen how it carved its way through the
-mountains, carrying them on, in solution, toward the ocean. At last I
-would see what became of all these misplaced mountains. I would see
-the tidal bore as it swept in from the Gulf. I had heard there were
-wild hogs which burrowed through the cane-brake. It may be that I
-would learn of a vessel at some port down on the Mexican coast, which
-I might reach and which would take me around the Lower California
-Peninsula. I felt sure there was such a port. No doubt I could have
-found books to tell me exactly what I would see, but too much
-information would spoil all the romance of such an adventure. It was
-all very alluring. With the spring flood on, the river could not help
-but be interesting and exciting, a pretty good imitation of the
-rapids, perhaps. If I could only secure a boat!
-
-Half an hour later I was meeting old acquaintances about the hotel,
-connected with the station. The genial hotel manager, with the Irish
-name, was smilingly explaining to some newcomers that this was not
-hot; that "a dry heat at 110 degrees was not nearly as bad as 85
-degrees back in Chicago," "and as for heat," he continued, "why down
-in Yuma"--then he caught sight of me, with a grin on my face, and
-perhaps he remembered that I had heard him say the same thing two
-years before, when it was even hotter; and he came over with
-out-stretched hand,--calling me uncomplimentary names, under his
-breath, for spoiling the effect of his explanation; all which was
-belied by his welcome. It takes an Irishman to run a big hotel in the
-middle of the desert.
-
-A few inquiries brought out the information that I was not likely to
-get a boat. The stores did not keep them. I should have given my order
-two weeks before to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00 a
-foot. This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted--well say,
-about $15.00 worth. It would look something like a tub, wouldn't it?
-Perhaps it was to be the coast, for me, after all.
-
-The Colorado River in flood is a terrible stream. Unlike the Eastern
-rivers, there are no populous cities--with apologies to Needles and
-Yuma--along its shores, to be inundated with the floods. Unlike the
-rivers of the South, few great agricultural districts spread across
-its bottoms. Along the upper seven hundred miles there are not a
-half-dozen ranches with twenty-five acres under cultivation. But if
-destructive power and untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado River,
-in flood, is a terrible stream.
-
-After changing into some comfortable clothes I sauntered past the
-railway machine shops down to the river, and up to where a fight was
-being waged to save the upper part of the town from being torn away by
-the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock had been dumped
-along the river bank, only to disappear in the quicksands; and as yet
-no bottom had been reached. Up to this point the fight was about
-equal. The flood would not reach its crest until two or three weeks
-later.
-
-Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by the river. The workmen
-had finished their day's labour. A ferryman said that I might talk an
-Indian into selling his boat, but it was doubtful. My next job was to
-find such an Indian.
-
-A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty bed spring, slung
-on a home-made frame, before his willow and adobe home, close to the
-Colorado River. In answer to my repeated question he uncoiled and
-stretched the full length of his six foot six couch, grunted a few
-words in his native tongue to other Indians without a glance in my
-direction, then indifferently closed his eyes again. A young Indian in
-semi-cowboy garb,--not omitting a gorgeous silk handkerchief about his
-neck,--jabbered awhile with some grinning squaws, then said in
-perfectly understandable English, "He will sell his boat for $18.00.
-It is worth $30.00." This was decisive for an Indian. It usually takes
-a half-day of bickering to get them to make any kind of a bargain. I
-told him I would take it in the morning.
-
-It was a well-constructed boat, almost new, built of inch pine,
-flat-bottomed, and otherwise quite similar in shape to the boats my
-brother and I had used on our twelve hundred mile journey through the
-canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers,--but without the graceful
-lines and swells that made those other boats so valuable to us in
-rapids. The boat was nearly new and well worth $30.00, as boat prices
-went in that town. Why he was willing to sell it for $18.00, or at the
-rate of $1.00 a foot, I could not imagine. It was the first bargain an
-Indian had ever offered me. But if I paid for it that evening, there
-were doubts in my mind if I should find it in the morning, so I
-delayed closing the bargain and went back again to inspect the boat.
-
-That evening I inquired among my acquaintances if there was any one
-who would care to accompany me. If so I would give them passage to
-Yuma, or to the Gulf of California in Mexico, if they wished it. But
-no one could go, or those who could, wouldn't. One would have thought
-from the stories with which I was regaled, that the rapids of the
-Grand Canyon were below Needles, and as for going to the Gulf, it was
-suicide. I was told of the outlaws along the border, of the firearms
-and opium smugglers, who shot first and questioned afterward, and of
-the insurrectos of Lower California. The river had no real outlet to
-the ocean, they said, since the break into Salton Sea, but spread over
-a cane-brake, thirty miles or more in width. Many people had gone into
-these swamps and never returned, whether lost in the jungles or killed
-by the Cocopah Indians, no one knew. They simply disappeared. It was
-all very alluring.
-
-My preparations, the next day, were few. I had included a sleeping bag
-with my baggage. It would come in equally handy whether I went down on
-the Colorado or up into the Coast Range. A frying-pan, a coffee-pot a
-few metal dishes and provisions for a week were all I needed. Some one
-suggested some bent poles, and a cover, such as are used on wagons to
-keep off the sun. This seemed like a good idea; and I hunted up a
-carpenter who did odd jobs. He did not have such a one, but he did
-have an old wagon-seat cover, which could be raised or dropped at
-will. This was even better, for sometimes hard winds sweep up the
-river. The cover was fastened to the sides of the boat. The boat,
-meanwhile, had been thoroughly scrubbed. It looked clean before, but I
-was not going to take any chances at carrying Indian live-stock along
-with his boat. My surplus baggage was sent on to Los Angeles, and
-twenty-four hours after I had landed in Needles, I was ready to
-embark.
-
-My experience in camping trips of various sorts has been that the
-start from headquarters occupies more time than any similar
-preparation. Once on the road, things naturally arrange themselves
-into some kind of a system, and an hour on the road in the evening
-means several hours gained the next morning. Added to this, there are
-always a number of loafers about railroad towns, and small things have
-a way of disappearing. With this in mind, I determined to make my
-start that evening, and at 7 P.M. on the 23d of May, 1913, I embarked
-on a six to eight mile an hour current, paced by cottonwood logs,
-carried down by the flood from the head waters in Wyoming, Utah, and
-Colorado.
-
-When sailing on the unruffled current one did not notice its
-swiftness--it sped so quietly yet at the same time with such deadly
-intent--until some half submerged cottonwood snags appeared, their
-jagged, broken limbs ploughing the stream exactly like the bow of a
-motor-driven boat, throwing two diverging lines of waves far down the
-stream. One would almost think the boat was motionless, it raced so
-smoothly,--and that the snags were tearing upstream as a river man had
-said, the day before, "like a dog with a bone in his teeth." A sunken
-stone-boat, with a cabin half submerged, seemed propelled by some
-unseen power and rapidly dwindled in the distance.
-
-So fascinating were these things that I forgot the approaching night.
-I first noticed it when the stream slackened its mad pace and spread
-over its banks into great wide marshes, in divided and subdivided
-channels and over submerged islands, with nothing but willow and fuzzy
-cattail tops to indicate that there was a bottom underneath. Here
-there was no place to camp had I wished to do so. Once I missed the
-main channel and had a difficult time in finding my way back in the
-dark. After two or three miles of this quiet current, the streams
-began to unite again, and the river regained its former speed. I was
-growing weary after the first excitement, and began to wish myself
-well out of it all and safely anchored to the shore. But I knew there
-was a level bank above the river close to the bridge, which would make
-a good camping place; so I rested on my oars facing down the stream
-with eyes and ears alert for the treacherous snags. Then the stars
-began to appear, one by one, lighting up the cloudless sky; a moist,
-tropical-like breeze moved up the stream, the channel narrowed and
-deepened, the snags vanished, and the stream increased its swiftness.
-
-And with eyes wide open, but unseeing, I dozed. It was the lights of a
-passenger train crossing the bridge, just a short distance away, that
-made me realize where I was. The train thundered into the darkness;
-but louder than the roar of the train was that of the water directly
-ahead, and hidden in the impenetrable shadow over on the right shore
-was a noise much like that made by a Grand Canyon rapid.
-
-Wide awake now, I pulled for the left, and after one or two attempts
-to land, I caught some willow tops and guided the boat to the raised
-bank. Beyond the willows was a higher ground, covered with a mesquite
-thicket, with cattle trails winding under the thorny trees. Here I
-unrolled my sleeping bag, then went up to interview the operator and
-the watchman, and to get a drink of clear water, for I had no desire
-to drink the liquid mud of the Colorado until it was necessary. In
-answer to a question I told them of my little ride. One of the men
-exclaimed, "You don't mean to say that you came down on the flood
-after dark!" On being informed that I had just arrived, he exclaimed:
-"Well I reckon you don't know what the Colorado is. It's a wonder this
-whirlpool didn't break you against the pier. You ought to have brought
-some one with you to see you drown!"
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXV
-
-
-
-FOUR DAYS TO YUMA
-
-Before sunrise the following morning, I had completed my few camp
-duties, finished my breakfast and dropped my boat into the whirlpool
-above the bridge. My two friends watched the manoeuvre as I pulled
-clear of the logs and the piers which caused the water to make such
-alarming sounds the night before; then they gave me a final word of
-caution, and the information that the Parker Bridge was sixty miles
-away and that Yuma was two hundred and fifty miles down the stream.
-They thought that I should reach Yuma in a week. It seemed but a few
-minutes until the bridge was a mile up the stream. Now I was truly
-embarked for the gulf.
-
-By the time I had reached the spire-like mountainous rocks a few miles
-below the bridge, which gave the town of Needles its name, the sun was
-well up and I was beginning to learn what desert heat was, although I
-had little time to think of it as I was kept so busy with my boat.
-Here, the stream which was spread a mile wide above, had choked down
-to two hundred feet; small violent whirlpools formed at the abrupt
-turns in this so-called canyon and the water tore from side to side.
-In one whirl my boat was twice carried around the circle into which I
-had allowed it to be caught, then shot out on the pounding flood. Soon
-the slag-like mountains were passed and the country began to spread,
-first in a high barren land, then with a bottom land running back from
-the river. The willow bushes changed to willow trees, tall and
-spindly, crowded in a thicket down to the river's edge. The Chemehuevi
-Indians have their reservation here. On rounding an abrupt turn I
-surprised two little naked children, fat as butterballs, dabbling in a
-mud puddle close to the stream. The sight, coupled with the
-tropical-like heat and the jungle, could well make one imagine he was
-in Africa or India, and that the little brown bodies were the
-"alligator bait" of which we read. Only the 'gators were missing. The
-unexpected sight of a boat and a white man trying to photograph them
-started them both into a frightened squall. Then an indignant mother
-appeared, staring at me as though she would like to know what I had
-done to her offspring. Farther along were other squaws, with red and
-blue lines pencilled on their childlike, contented faces, seated under
-the willows. Their cotton garments, of red and blue bandanna
-handkerchiefs sewed together, added a gay bit of colour to the scene.
-
-Below this were two or three cozy little ranch houses and a few
-scattered cattle ranches, with cattle browsing back in the trees. All
-this time it was getting hotter, and I was thankful for my sheltering
-cover. My lunch, prepared in the morning, was eaten as I drifted.
-Except in a few quiet stretches I did little rowing, just enough to
-keep the boat away from the overhanging banks and in the strong
-current.
-
-The bottom lands began to build up again with banks of gravel and
-clay, growing higher with every mile. The deciduous trees gave way to
-the desert growths: the cholla, "the shower of gold," and the palo
-verde and the other acacias. Here were the California or valley-quail;
-and lean, long-legged jack-rabbits. Here too were the coyotes, leaner
-than the rabbits, but efficient, shifty-eyed, and insolent. One could
-admire but could hardly respect them.
-
-I had entertained hopes of reaching Parker that evening, but supposed
-the hour would be late if I reached it at all. Imagine my surprise,
-then, when at half-past four I heard the whistle of a train, and
-another turn revealed the Parker bridge. I had been told by others
-that it had taken them three or four days to reach this point on a low
-stage of water. Evidently the high water is much better for rapid and
-interesting travel.
-
-Here at the bridge, which was a hundred feet above the river, was a
-dredge, and an old flat-bottomed steamboat, a relic of a few years
-past, before the government built the Laguna dam above Yuma, and
-condemned the Colorado as a navigable stream. Those were the days
-which the Colorado steamboat men recall with as much fond remembrance
-as the old-time boatmen of the Mississippi remember their palmy days.
-
-In spite of the fact that the boats were flat-bottomed and small, it
-was real steamboating of an exciting nature at least. At times they
-beat up against the current as far as the mouth of the Rio Virgin. In
-low water the channels shifted back and forth first choked with sand
-on one side of the stream, then on the other. While the total fall
-from Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles, to the Gulf is only 525
-feet, considerable of that fall came in short sections, first with a
-swift descent, then in a quiet stretch. Even in the high-water stage I
-was finding some such places.
-
-Parker stood a mile back from the river, on top of the level gravelly
-earth which stretched for miles on either side of the river clear to
-the mountains. This earth and gravel mixture was so firmly packed that
-even the cactus had a scant foothold. The town interested me for one
-reason only, this being, that I could get my meals for the evening and
-the following morning, instead of having to cook them myself. After I
-had eaten them, however, there was a question in my mind if my own
-cooking, bad as it was, would not have answered the purpose just as
-well. The place was a new railroad town on an Indian reservation, a
-town of great expectations, somewhat deferred.
-
-It was not as interesting to me as my next stop at Ahrenburg, some
-fifty miles below Parker. This place while nothing but a collection of
-dilapidated adobe buildings, had an air of romance about it which was
-missing in the newer town. Ahrenburg had seen its day. Many years ago
-it was a busy mining camp, and the hope is entertained by the faithful
-who still reside in its picturesque adobe homes that it will come back
-with renewed vigour. Here at Ahrenburg I met a character who added
-greatly to the interest of my stay. He was a gigantic, raw-boned
-Frenchman, at that time engaged in the construction of a motor boat;
-but a miner, a sailor, and a soldier of fortune in many ways, one who
-had pried into many of the hidden corners of the country and had a
-graphic way of describing what he had seen. I was his guest until late
-that night, and was entertained royally on what humble fare he had to
-offer. We both intended to renew our acquaintance in the morning, but
-some prowling Mexicans near my boat, croaking frogs, and swarms of
-mosquitos gave me a restless night. With the first glimmer of daylight
-I was up, and half an hour later I was away on the flood.
-
-This was my big day. The current was better than much of that above; I
-was getting used to the heat, and, instead of idly drifting, I pulled
-steadily at the oars. The river twisted back and forth in great loops
-with the strong current, as is usual, always on the outside of the
-loops, close to the overhanging banks. I would keep my boat in this
-current, with a wary lookout over my shoulder for fallen trees and
-sudden turns, which had a way of appearing when least expected. At
-some such places the stream was engaged at undermining the banks which
-rose eight and ten feet above the water. Occasional sections,
-containing tons of earth and covered with tall, slender willow trees,
-would topple over, falling on the water with the roar of a cannon or a
-continued salute of cannons; for the falling, once started, quite
-often extended for half a mile down the stream. At one such place
-eighteen trees fell in three minutes, and it would be safe to say that
-a hundred trees were included in the extended fall. The trees, sixty
-feet high, resembled a field of gigantic grass or unripened grain; the
-river was a reaper, cutting it away at the roots. Over they tumbled to
-be buried in the stream; the water would swirl and boil, earth and
-trees would disappear; then the mass of leaf-covered timber, freed of
-the earth, would wash away to lodge on the first sand-bar, and the
-formation of a new island or a new shore would begin.
-
-Then again, the banks were barren, composed of gravel and clay,
-centuries older than the verdure-covered land, undisturbed, possibly,
-since some glacial period deposited it there. But a shifting of the
-channel directed the attack against these banks. Here the swift
-current would find a little irregularity on the surface and would
-begin its cutting. The sand-laden water bored exactly like an auger,
-in fast-cutting whirls. One such place I watched for a half-hour from
-the very beginning, until the undermined section, fourteen feet high,
-began to topple, and I pulled out to safety, but not far enough to
-escape a ducking in the resulting wave.
-
-Below this, instead of a firm earth, it was a loose sand and gravel
-mixture twenty feet above the river. Here for half a mile the entire
-bank was moving, slowly at the top, gathering speed at the bottom.
-While close to this I heard a peculiar hissing as of carbonated water
-all about me. At first I thought there were mineral springs
-underneath, but found the noise was caused by breaking air bubbles
-carried under the stream with the sands. All this day such phenomena
-continued, sliding sand-banks and tumbling jungles. In these latter
-places some cattle had suffered. Their trails ran parallel with the
-stream. No doubt they had one or two places where they drank cut down
-to the stream Knowing nothing of the cutting underneath, they had been
-precipitated into the flood, and now their carcasses were food for
-swarms of vultures gathered for an unholy feast.
-
-What powerful, graceful birds these scavengers are, stronger than the
-eagle even, tireless and seemingly motionless as they drift along
-searching every nook and cranny for their provender! But aside from a
-grudgingly given tribute of admiration for their power, one has about
-as much respect for them as for the equally graceful rattlesnake, that
-other product of nature which flourishes in this desert land.
-
-The bird life along this lower part of the river was wonderful in its
-variety. The birds of the desert mingled with those of the fertile
-lands. The song-birds vied with those of gorgeous plume. Water-birds
-disported themselves in the mud-banks and sloughs. The smaller birds
-seemed to pay little attention to the nearness of the hawks.
-Kingfisher perched on limbs overhanging the quiet pools, ready to drop
-at the faintest movement on the opaque water; the road-runner chased
-the festive lizard on the desert land back of the willows. Here also
-in the mesquite and giant cactus were thrush and Western meadow-larks
-and mocking-birds mimicking the call of the cat-bird. Down in the
-brush by the river was the happy little water-ousel, as cheerful in
-his way as the dumpy-built musical canyon wren. The Mexican crossbill
-appeared to have little fear of the migrating Northern shrike. There
-were warblers, cardinals, tanagers, waxwings, song-sparrows, and
-chickadees. Flitting droves of bush-tit dropped on to slender weeds,
-scarcely bending them, so light were they. Then in a minute they were
-gone. In the swamps or marshes were countless red-winged blackbirds.
-
-The most unobservant person could not help but see birds here. I had
-expected to find water-fowl, for the Colorado delta is their breeding
-place; but I little expected to find so many land birds in the trees
-along the river. Instead of having a lonesome trip, every minute was
-filled with something new, interesting, and beautiful and I was having
-the time of my life.
-
-I camped that night at Picachio,--meaning the Pocket,--eighty miles
-below Ahrenburg. This is still a mining district, but the pockets
-containing nuggets of gold which gave the place its name seem to have
-all been discovered at the time of the boom; the mining now done is in
-quartz ledges up on the sides of grim, mineral-stained hills. I was
-back in the land of rock again, a land showing the forces of nature in
-high points of foreign rock, shot up from beneath, penetrating the
-crust of the earth and in a few places emerging for a height of two
-hundred feet from the river itself, forming barren islands and great
-circling whirlpools, as large as that in the Niagara gorge, and I
-thought, for a while, almost as powerful. In one I attempted to keep
-to the short side of the river, but found it a difficult job, and one
-which took three times as long to accomplish as if I had allowed
-myself to be carried around the circle.
-
-Then the land became level again, and the Chocolate Mountains were
-seen to the west. A hard wind blew across the stream, so that I had to
-drop my sunshade to prevent being carried against the rocks. This day
-I passed a large irrigation canal leading off from the stream, the
-second such on the entire course of the Colorado. Here a friendly
-ranchman called to me from the shore and warned me of the Laguna dam
-some distance below. He said the water was backed up for three miles,
-so I would know when I was approaching it.
-
-In spite of this warning, I nearly came to grief at the dam. The wind
-had shifted until it blew directly down the stream. The river, nearly
-a mile wide, still ran with a powerful current; I ceased rowing and
-drifted down, over waves much like those one would find on a lake
-driven by a heavy wind. I saw some high poles and a heavy electric
-cable stretched across the stream, and concluded that this was the
-beginning of the dam. I began to look ahead for some sign of a barrier
-across the stream, far below, but I could see nothing of the kind;
-then as I neared the poles it suddenly dawned on me that there was no
-raised barrier which diverted all the water through a sluice, but a
-submerged dam, over which the flood poured, and that the poles were on
-that dam.
-
-My sail-like sunshade was dropped as quickly as I could do it, and,
-grabbing the oars, I began to pull for the California shore.
-
-It was fortunate for me that I happened to be comparatively near the
-shore when I began rowing. As it was, I landed below the diverting
-canal, and about a hundred yards above the dam. On examination the dam
-proved to be a slope about fifty feet long. A man in charge of the
-machinery controlling the gates told me that the dam lacked seven feet
-of being a mile wide, and that approximately seven feet of water was
-going over the entire dam.
-
-Great cement blocks and rocks had been dropped promiscuously below the
-dam to prevent it from being undermined. Even without the rocks it was
-doubtful if an uncovered boat could go through without upsetting. The
-great force of the water made a trough four or five feet lower than
-the river level, all water coming down the slope shooting underneath,
-while the river rolled back upstream. On two occasions boatmen had
-been carried over the dam. In each case the boat was wrecked, but the
-occupants were thrown out and escaped uninjured. I could not help but
-be amused, and feel a little uncomfortable too, when I saw how nearly
-I came to being wrecked here, after having escaped that fate in the
-rapids of the canyons.
-
-I ran my boat back to the diverting canal, then rowed down to the
-massive cement gates, which looked to me like a small replica of some
-of the locks on the Panama Canal. With the help of an Indian who was
-ready for a job my boat was taken out, rolled around the buildings on
-some sections of pipe, and slid over the bank into the canal below the
-gates.
-
-In spite of a desire to spend some time inspecting the machinery of
-this great work,--which, with the canal and other improvements, had
-cost the government over a million dollars--I immediately resumed my
-rowing. It was mid-afternoon, and measured by the canal, which was
-direct, it was twelve miles to Yuma. But I soon learned that great
-winding curves made it much farther by the river. In some cases it
-nearly doubled back on itself. The wind had shifted by this time and
-blew against me so hard that it was almost useless to attempt rowing.
-In another place there were no banks, and the water had spread for
-three miles in broken sloughs and around half-submerged islands, the
-one deep channel being lost in the maze of shallow ones. With these
-things to contend with it was dusk long before I neared the town, the
-twelve miles having stretched to twenty. Finally I saw a windmill
-partly submerged. Some distance away was a small ranch house also in
-the water. The house, with lights in the upper story, was a cheering
-sight; the windmill looked out of place in the midst of all this
-desolation of water. Soon other houses appeared with lights showing
-through the windows. Once I lost my way and spent a half hour in
-getting back to the right channel.
-
-Somewhere in the dark, I never knew just when, I passed the mouth of
-the Gila River. In a similar way in broad daylight I had passed the
-Bill Williams Fork above Ahrenburg.
-
-At last I neared the town. I could discern some buildings on top of a
-small hill, evidently one of the back streets of Yuma. After tying my
-boat, I hid my small load in some mesquite trees, then climbed the
-hill and passed between two peculiar stone houses dark as dungeons.
-They puzzled me from the outside, but when once past them, I was no
-longer in doubt. I had entered the open gateway leading to the
-courtyard of the Yuma penitentiary. No wonder the buildings looked
-like dungeons. This was a new experience for me, but somehow I had
-always imagined just how it would look. I was considering beating a
-retreat when a guard hailed me and asked me if I was not lost. With
-the assistance of the guard, I escaped from the pen and found my way
-to the streets of Yuma, just four days after leaving the Needles
-bridge.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVI
-
-
-
-ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER
-
-"Mexico is a good place to keep away from just at present." This was
-the invariable answer to a few casual inquiries concerning what I
-would be likely to meet with in the way of difficulties, a possible
-companion for the voyage to the Gulf, and how one could get back when
-once there. I received little encouragement from the people of Yuma.
-The cautions came not from the timid who see danger in every rumour,
-but from the old steamboat captains, the miners, and prospectors who
-knew the country and had interests in mineral claims across the
-border. These claims they had lost in many cases because they had
-failed for the last two years to keep up their assessment work. There
-were vague suggestions of being stood up against an adobe wall with a
-row of "yaller bellies" in front, or being thrown into damp dungeons
-and held for a ransom.
-
-The steamboat men could give me little information about the river.
-The old channel had filled with silt, and the river was diverted into
-a roundabout course little more than a creek in width, then spread
-over whole delta. The widely spread water finally collected into an
-ancient course of the Colorado, known as the Hardy or False Colorado.
-As nearly as I could learn no one from Yuma had been through this new
-channel beyond a certain point called Volcanic Lake. Two or three
-parties had come back with stories of having attempted it, but found
-themselves in the middle of a cane-brake with insufficient water to
-float a boat. With a desire to be of real assistance to me, one old
-captain called a Yuma Indian into his office and asked him his
-opinion, suggesting that he might go along.
-
-"Mebbe so get lost in the trees, mebbe so get shot by the Cocopah,"
-the Indian replied as he shook his head.
-
-The captain laughed at the last and said that the Yuma and Cocopah
-Indians were not the best of friends, and accused each other of all
-sorts of things which neither had committed. Some Mexicans and certain
-outlawed whites who kept close to the border for different reasons,
-and the possibilities of bogging in a cane-brake were the only
-uncertainties. In so many words he advised me against going.
-
-Still I persevered. I had planned so long on completing my boating
-trip to the Gulf, that I disliked to abandon the idea altogether. I
-felt sure, with a flood on the Colorado, there would be some channel
-that a flat-bottomed boat could go through, when travelling with the
-current; but the return trip and the chances of being made a target
-for some hidden native who had lived on this unfriendly border and had
-as much reason for respecting some citizens of the United States as
-our own Indians had in the frontier days, caused me considerable
-concern. I knew it was customary everywhere to make much of the
-imaginary dangers, as we had found in our other journeys; but it is
-not difficult to discriminate between sound advice and the croakings
-which are based on lack of real information. I knew this was sound
-advice, and as usual I disliked to follow it. At last I got some
-encouragement. It came from a retired Wild West showman,--the real
-thing, one who knew the West from its early days. He laughed at the
-idea of danger and said I was not likely to find any one, even if I
-was anxious to do so, until I got to the La Bolso Ranch near the Gulf.
-They would be glad to see me. He thought it was likely to prove
-uninteresting unless I intended to hunt wild hogs, but that was
-useless without dogs, and I would have trouble getting a gun past the
-custom officers. His advice was to talk with the Mexican consul, as he
-might know some one who could bring me back by horseback.
-
-In the consul I found a young Spaniard, all affability, bows, and
-gestures; and without being conscious of it at first I too began
-making motions. He deplored my lack of knowledge of the Spanish
-language, laughed at any suggestion of trouble, as all trouble was in
-Eastern Sonora, he said, separated from the coast by two hundred miles
-of desert, and stated that the non-resident owner of the La Bolsa
-cattle ranch happened to be in the building at that moment. In a
-twinkling he had me before him and explained the situation. This
-gentleman, the owner of a 600,000-acre grant, and the fishing
-concession of the Gulf, stated that the ranch drove a team to Yuma
-once a week, that they would bring me back; in the interval I must
-consider myself the guest of the Rancho La Bolsa. The consul gave me a
-passport, and so it was all arranged.
-
-In spite of the consul's opinion, there were many whispered rumours of
-war, of silent automobiles loaded with firearms that stole out of town
-under cover of the night and returned in four days, and another of a
-river channel that could be followed and was followed, the start being
-made, not from Yuma, but from another border town farther west. A year
-before there had been an outbreak at this place of certain restless
-spirits,--some whites included,--and they went along the northern line
-of Mexico, sacking the ranches and terrorizing the people. The La
-Bolsa ranch was among those that suffered. The party contained some
-discharged vaqueros who were anxious to interview the ranch foreman,
-but fortunately for him he was absent. Then they turned south to
-Chihuahua and joined the army of Madero. War, to them, meant license
-to rob and kill. They were not insurrectos, but bandits, and this was
-the class that was most feared.
-
-Meanwhile I had not given up the idea of a possible companion. Before
-coming to Yuma I had entertained hopes of getting some one with a
-motor boat to take me down and back, but there were no motor boats, I
-found. The nearest approach to a power boat was an attempt that was
-being made to install the engine from a wrecked steam auto on a sort
-of flat-bottomed scow. I heard of this boat three or four times, and
-in each case the information was accompanied by a smile and some vague
-remarks about a "hybrid." I hunted up the owner,--the proprietor of a
-shooting gallery,--a man who had once had aspirations as a
-heavy-weight prize fighter, but had met with discouragement. So he had
-turned his activities to teaching the young idea how to
-shoot--especially the "Mexican idea" and those other border spirits
-who were itching for a scrap.
-
-The proprietor of the shooting gallery drove a thriving trade. Since
-he had abandoned his training he had taken on fat, and I found him to
-be a genial sort of giant who refused to concern himself with the
-serious side of life. Even a lacing he had received in San Francisco
-at the hands of a negro stevedore struck him as being humorous. He did
-not seem to have much more confidence in his "power boat" than the
-others, but said I might talk with the man who was putting it
-together, ending with the remark "Phillipps thinks he can make her
-run, and he has always talked of going to the Gulf."
-
-On investigation I found Al Phillipps was anxious to go to the Gulf,
-and would go along if I would wait until he got his boat in shape.
-This would take two days. Phillipps, as he told me himself, was a
-Jayhawker who had left the farm in Kansas and had gone to sea for two
-years. He was a cowboy, but had worked a year or two about mining
-engines. In Yuma he was a carpenter, but was anxious to leave and go
-prospecting along the Gulf. Phillipps and I were sure to have an
-interesting time. He spoke Spanish and did not fear any of the
-previously mentioned so-called dangers; he had heard of one party
-being carried out to sea when the tide rushed out of the river, but as
-we would have low tide he thought that, with caution, we could avoid
-that.
-
-At last all was ready for the momentous trial. The river bank was
-lined with a crowd of men who seemed to have plenty of leisure. Some
-long-haired Yuma Indians, and red and green turbaned Papagos, gathered
-in a group off a little to one side. A number of darkies were fishing
-for bullheads, and boys of three colors besides the Mexicans and a
-lone Chinaman clambered over the trees and the boats along the shore.
-
-It was a moment of suspense for Phillipps. His reputation as an
-engineer and a constructor of boats hung in the balance. He also had
-some original ideas about a rudder which had been incorporated in this
-boat. Now was his chance to test them out, and his hour of triumph if
-they worked.
-
-The test was a rigid one. The boat was to be turned upstream against
-an eight-mile current with big sand-waves, beginning about sixty feet
-from the shore, running in the middle of the river. If the engine ran,
-and the stern paddle-wheel turned, his reputation was saved. If she
-was powerful enough to go against the current, it was a triumph and we
-would start for the Gulf at once.
-
-On board were Phillipps, a volunteer, and myself. Before turning the
-boat loose, the engine was tried. It was a success. The paddle-wheel
-churned the water at a great rate, sending the boat upstream as far as
-the ropes would let her go. We would try a preliminary run in the
-quiet water close to the shore, before making the test in the swift
-current. The order was given to cast off, and for two men, the owner
-and another, to hold to the ropes and follow on the shore. The engine
-was started, the paddle-wheel revolved, slowly at first but gathering
-speed with each revolution. We began to move gently, then faster, so
-that the men on shore had difficulty in keeping even with us, impeded
-as they were with bushes and sloping banks. Flushed with success, the
-order was given to turn her loose, and we gathered in the ropes. Now
-we were drifting away from the shore and making some headway against
-the swift current. The crowd on shore was left behind.
-
-But as we left the bank the river increased in speed and the boat
-gradually lost. Then she stood still, but began to turn slowly,
-broadside to the current. This was something we had not foreseen. With
-no headway the rudder was of no avail. There was no sweep-oar; we had
-even neglected to put an oar on the boat. With pieces of boards the
-stranger and I paddled, trying to hold her straight, but all the time,
-in spite of our efforts, she drifted away from the land and slowly
-turned. A big sand-wave struck her, she wheeled in her tracks and
-raced straight for a pier, down the stream.
-
-About this time our engineer began having trouble with his engine. At
-first we feared it would not run, now it seemed it would not stop.
-
-A great shout went up from the shore, and a bet was made that we would
-run to the Gulf in less than a day. A darky boy fell off a boat in the
-excitement, the Indians did a dance, men pounded each other and
-whooped for joy. Then a bolt came loose, and the engine ran away.
-Driving-rod and belts were whirled "regardless," as the passenger
-afterwards said, about our heads.
-
-Then the crash came. Our efforts to escape the pier were of no avail.
-I made a puny effort to break the impact with a pole, but was sent
-sprawling on the deck. Al tumbled headlong on top of the engine, which
-he had stopped at last, our passenger rolled over and over, but we all
-stayed with the ship. Each grabbing a board, we began to paddle and
-steered the craft to the shore.
-
-With the excitement over, the crowd faded away. Only two or three
-willing hands remained to help us line the craft back to the landing.
-The owner, who had to run around the end of the bridge, came down
-puffing and blowing, badly winded, at the end of the first round.
-Without a word from any one we brought the boat back to the landing.
-
-Al was the first to speak.
-
-"Well, what are you going to do?" he asked.
-
-"Me? I'm going to take my boat and start for the Gulf in ten minutes.
-I'll take nothing that I cannot carry. If I have to leave the river I
-will travel light across the desert to Calexico. I think that I can
-get through. If you want to go along, I'll stick with you until we get
-back. What do you think about it?"
-
-It was a long speech and a little bitter perhaps. I felt that way. The
-disappointment on top of the three days' delay when time was precious
-could not be forgotten in a moment. And when my speech was said I was
-all through.
-
-Al said he would be ready in half an hour. Our beds were left behind.
-Al had a four-yard square of canvas for a sail. This would be
-sufficient covering at night in the hot desert. We had two canteens.
-The provisions, scarcely touched before arriving here, were sufficient
-for five days. I was so anxious to get started that I did not take the
-time to replenish them in Yuma, intending to do so at the custom-house
-on the Arizona side twelve miles below, where some one had told me
-there was a store. I counted on camping there. After a hurriedly eaten
-luncheon we were ready to start, the boat was shoved off, and we were
-embarked for Mexico.
-
-Half an hour later we passed the abandoned Imperial Canal, the
-man-made channel which had nearly destroyed the vast agricultural
-lands which it had in turn created. Just such a flood as that on which
-we were travelling had torn out the insufficiently supported
-head-gates. The entire stream, instead of pushing slowly across the
-delta, weltering in its own silt to the Gulf, poured into the bottom
-of the basin nearly four hundred feet below the top of this silt-made
-dam. In a single night it cut an eighty-foot channel in the unyielding
-soil, and what had once been the northern end of the California Gulf
-was turned into an inland sea, filled with the turbid waters of the
-Colorado, instead of the sparkling waters of the ocean. Nothing but an
-almost superhuman fight finally rescued the land from the grip of the
-water.
-
-A short distance below, just across the Mexican line, on the
-California side, was the new canal, dug in a firmer soil and with
-strongly built gates anchored in rock back from the river.
-
-Half a mile away from the stream, on a spur railway, was the Mexican
-custom-house. I had imagined that it would be beside the river, and
-that guards would be seen patrolling the shore. But aside from an
-Indian fishing, there was no one to be seen. We walked out to the
-custom-house, gave a list of the few things which we had, assured them
-that we carried no guns, paid our duty, and departed. We had imagined
-that our boat would be inspected, but no one came near.
-
-The border line makes a jog here at the river and the Arizona-Mexico
-line was still a few miles down the stream. We had passed the mouth of
-the old silt-dammed Colorado channel, which flowed a little west of
-south; and we turned instead to the west into the spreading delta or
-moraine. About this time I remarked that I had seen no store at the
-custom-house and that I must not neglect to get provisions at the next
-one or we would be rather short.
-
-"We passed our last custom-house back there." Al replied, "That's
-likely the last place we will see until we get to the ranch by the
-Gulf."
-
-No custom-house! No store! This was a surprise. What was a border for
-if not to have custom-houses and inspectors? With all the talk of
-smuggling I had not thought of anything else. And I could tell by Al's
-tone that his estimation of my foresight had dropped several degrees.
-This was only natural, for his disappointment and the jibes still
-rankled.
-
-At last we were wholly in Mexican territory. With the States behind,
-all of our swiftly running water had departed, and we now travelled on
-a stream that was nearly stagnant. All the cottonwood logs which had
-finally been carried down the stream after having been deposited on a
-hundred shores, found here their final resting place. About each
-cluster of logs an island was forming, covered with a rank grass and
-tules.
-
-Ramified channels wound here and there. Two or three times we found
-ourselves in a shallow channel, and with some difficulty retraced our
-way. All channels looked alike, but only one was deep.
-
-Then the willow trees which were far distant on either shore began to
-close in and we travelled in a channel not more than a hundred feet
-wide, growing smaller with every mile. This new channel is sometimes
-termed the Bee River. It parallels the northern Mexico line; it also
-parallels a twenty-five mile levee which the United States government
-has constructed along the northern edge of this fifty-mile wide dam
-shoved across the California Gulf by the stream, building higher every
-year. Except for the river channel the dam may be said to reach
-unbroken from the Arizona-Sonora Mesa to the Cocopah Mountains. The
-levee runs from a point of rocks near the river to Lone Mountain, a
-solitary peak some distance east of the main range. This levee, built
-since the trouble with the canal, is all that prevents the water from
-breaking into the basin in a dozen places.
-
-We saw signs of two or three camp-fires close to the stream, and with
-the memory of the stories haunting us a little we built only a small
-fire when we cooked our evening meal, then extinguished it, and camped
-on a dry point of land a mile or two below. I think we were both a
-little nervous that night; I confess that I was, and if an unwashed
-black-bearded individual had poked his head out from the willows and
-said, "Woof!" or whatever it is that they say when they want to start
-up a jack-rabbit, we would both have stampeded clear across the
-border. In fact I felt a little as I did when I played truant from
-school and wondered what would happen when I was found out.
-
-Daybreak found us ready to resume our journey, and with a rising sun
-any nervousness vanished. What could any one want with two men who had
-nothing but a flat-bottomed boat?
-
-All the morning we travelled west, the trees ever drawing closer as
-our water departed on the south, running through the willows,
-arrow-weed, and cat-tails. Then the channel opened into Volcanic Lake,
-a circular body of water, which is not a lake but simply a gathering
-together of the streams we had been losing, and here the water stands,
-depositing its mud. All the way across had no depth but a bottomless
-mud, so soft it would engulf a person if he tried to wade across.
-
-On the west there was no growth. The shore was nothing but an ash-like
-powder, not a sand, but a rich soil blown here and there, building in
-dunes against every obstruction, ever moving before the wind. Here
-were boiling, sputtering mud pots and steam vents building up and
-exhausting through mud pipe-stems, rising a foot or two above the
-springs. Here was a shelter or two of sun-warped boards constructed by
-those who come here crippled with rheumatism and are supposed to
-depart, cured. Here we saw signs of a wagon track driven toward
-Calexico, the border town directly north of the lake. The heat was
-scorching, the sun, reflected from the sand and water, was blistering,
-and we could well imagine what a walk across that ash-like soil would
-mean. Mirages in the distance beckoned, trees and lakes were seen over
-toward the mountains where we had seen nothing but desert before; heat
-waves rose and fell. Our mouths began to puff from the reflected sun,
-our faces burned and peeled, black and red in spots. There was no
-indication of the slightest breeze until about three o'clock, when the
-wind moved gently across the lake.
-
-We had skirted the northern part of the circle, passing a few small
-streams and then found one of the three large channels which empty the
-lake. As it happened we took the one on the outside, and the longest.
-The growth grew thicker than ever, the stream choked down to fifty
-feet. Now it began to loop backward and forward and back again, as
-though trying to make the longest and crookedest channel possible in
-the smallest space. The water in the channel was stagnant, swift
-streamlets rushed in from the tules on the north, and rushed out again
-on the south. It was not always a simple matter to ascertain which was
-the main channel. Others just as large were diverted from the stream.
-Twice we attempted to cut across, but the water became shallow, the
-tules stalled our boats, and we were glad to return, sounding with a
-pole when in doubt.
-
-Then we began to realize that we were not entirely alone in this
-wilderness of water. We saw evidence of another's passage, in broken
-cat-tails and blazed trees. In many places he had pushed into the
-thickets. We concluded it must be a trapper. At last, to our surprise,
-we saw a telephone equipment, sheltered in a box nailed on a
-water-surrounded tree. The line ran directly across the stream. Here
-also we could see where a boat had forced a way through, and the water
-plants had been cut with a sharp instrument. What could it be? We were
-certain no line ran to the only ranch at the Gulf. We had information
-of another ranch directly on the border line, but did not think it
-came below the levee, and as far as we had learned, there were no
-homes but the wickiups of the Cocopah in the jungles. It was like one
-of those thrilling stories of Old Sleuth and Dead Shot Dick which we
-read, concealed in our schoolbooks, when we were supposed to be
-studying the physical geography of Mexico. But the telephone was no
-fiction, and had recently been repaired, but for what purpose it was
-there we could not imagine. After leaving the lake there was no dry
-land. At night our boat, filled with green tules for a bed, was tied
-to a willow tree, with its roots submerged in ten feet of water. Never
-were there such swarms of mosquitos. In the morning our faces were
-corrugated with lumps, not a single exposed spot remaining unbitten.
-
-The loops continued with the next day's travel, but we were gradually
-working to the southwest, then they began to straighten out somewhat,
-as the diverted streams returned. We thought early in the morning that
-we would pass about ten miles to the east of the coast range, but it
-was not to be. Directly to the base of the dark, heat-vibrating rocks
-we pulled, and landed on the first shore that we had seen for
-twenty-four hours.
-
-Here was a recently used trail, and tracks where horses came down to
-the water. Here too was the track of a barefooted Cocopah, a tribe
-noted for its men of gigantic build, and with great feet out of all
-proportion to their size. If that footprint was to be fossilized,
-future generations would marvel at the evidence of some gigantic
-prehistoric animal, an alligator with a human-shaped foot. These
-Indians have lived in these mud bottoms so long, crossing the streams
-on rafts made of bundles of tules, and only going to the higher land
-when their homes are inundated by the floods, that they have become a
-near approach to a web-footed human being.
-
-Our stream merely touched the mountain, then turned directly to the
-southeast in a gradually increasing stream. Now we began to see the
-breeding places of the water-birds of which we had heard. There was a
-confusion of bird calls, sand-hill cranes were everywhere; in some
-cases with five stick-built nests in a single water-killed tree. A
-blue heron flopped around as though it had broken a wing, to decoy us
-from its nest. The snowy white pelican waddled along the banks and
-mingled with the cormorants. There were great numbers of gulls, and
-occasional snipe. We were too late to see the ducks which come here,
-literally by the million, during the winter months. There were hawks'
-nests in the same groups of trees as the cranes, with the young hawks
-stretching their necks for the food which was to be had in such
-abundance. And on another tree sat the parent hawks, complacently
-looking over the nests of the other birds, like a coyote waiting for a
-horse to die. At Cocopah Mountain a golden eagle soared, coming down
-close to the ground as we rested under the mesquite. Then as we
-travelled clear streams of water began to pour in from the north and
-east, those same streams we had lost above, but cleared entirely of
-their silt. Now the willows grew scarce, and instead of mud banks a
-dry, firm earth was built up from the river's edge, and the stream
-increased in size. Soon it was six or seven hundred feet wide and
-running with a fair current. This was the Hardy River. We noticed
-signs of falling water on the banks as though the stream had dropped
-an inch or two. In a half-hour the mark indicated a fall of eight
-inches or more; then we realized we were going out with the tide. A
-taste of water proved it. The river water was well mixed with a weak
-saline solution. We filled our canteens at once.
-
-We saw a small building and a flagpole on the south shore, but on
-nearing the place found it was deserted. A few miles below were two
-other channels equally as large as that on which we travelled,
-evidently fed by streams similar to our own. There were numerous
-scattered trees, some of them cottonwood, and we saw some grazing
-cattle. We began to look for the ranch house, which some one had said
-was at the point where the Colorado and the Hardy joined, and which
-others told us was at the Gulf.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVII
-
-
-
-THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA
-
-That the head of the Gulf of California has a big tide is well known.
-Choked in a narrowing cone, the waters rise higher and higher as they
-come to the apex, reaching twenty-five feet or over in a high tide.
-This causes a tidal bore to roll up the Colorado, and from all reports
-it was something to be avoided. The earliest Spanish explorers told
-some wonderful tales of being caught in this bore and of nearly losing
-their little sailing vessels.
-
-This was my first experience with river tides. It was somewhat of a
-disappointment to me that I could not arrange to be here at a high
-tide, for we had come at the first quarter of the moon. Out on the
-open sea one can usually make some headway by rowing against the ebb
-or flow of the tide: here on the Colorado, where it flowed upstream at
-a rate of from five to eight miles an hour, it was different. When we
-reached the head of the tide, it was going out. Unfortunately for us
-the day was gone when the current began to run strong. It hardly
-seemed advisable to travel with it after dark. We might pass the
-ranch, or be carried against a rock-bound coast, or find difficulty in
-landing and be overwhelmed by the tidal bore. So when darkness fell we
-camped pulling our boat out in a little slough to prevent it from
-being carried away. Evidently we were too near the headwaters for a
-tidal bore, for at eleven P.M. the waters turned and came back as
-quietly as they ran out.
-
-We launched our boat before the break of day, and for four hours we
-travelled on a good current. The channel now had widened to a
-half-mile, with straight earthy banks, about fifteen feet high. Still
-there was no sign of a ranch, and it began to look to us as if there
-was little likelihood of finding any.
-
-The land was nearly level and except for a few raised hummocks on
-which grew some scattered trees, it was quite bare. This was not only
-because it did not get the life-giving water from the north, but
-because at times it was submerged under the saline waters from the
-south. Near the shores of the river, and extending back for fifty
-feet, was a matted, rank growth of grass; beyond that the earth was
-bare, baked and cracked by the burning sun. This grass, we found, was
-a favorite resort of rattlesnakes. We killed two of them, a large one
-and a vicious little flat-headed sidewinder.
-
-All this land was the south rim of the silt dam, which extended from
-the line of cliffs or mesa on the east to the mountains on the west.
-The other rim, a hundred feet higher, lay at least fifty miles to the
-north. Here was the resting-place of a small portion of the sediment
-carved away by the Colorado's floods. How deep it is piled and how far
-it extends out under the waters of the Gulf would be hard to say.
-
-We felt sure that we would get to the Gulf with this tide, but when
-the time came for it to turn we were still many miles away. There was
-nothing to do but to camp out on this sun-baked plain. We stopped a
-little after 9.30 A.M. Now that we were nearing the Gulf we were sure
-there would be a tidal bore. As we breakfasted a slight rushing sound
-was heard, and what appeared to be a ripple of broken water or small
-breaker came up the stream and passed on. This was a disappointment.
-With high water on the river and with a low tide this was all the
-tidal bore we would see.
-
-In four hours the water rose fourteen feet, then for two hours the
-rise was slower. Within three feet of the level it came. The opposite
-side, rounded at the edges, looked like a thread on top of the water,
-tapered to a single silken strand and looking toward the Gulf, merged
-into the water. To all appearances it was a placid lake spread from
-mountain to mesa.
-
-Our smaller canteen was still filled with the fresh water secured the
-evening before. The other had been emptied and was filled again before
-the return of the tide, but considerable taste of the salt remained.
-What we did now must be done with caution. So far we had not seen the
-ranch. We were in doubt whether it was somewhere out on the coast or
-back on one of the sloughs passed the evening before. We had heard of
-large sail-boats being hauled from Yuma and launched by the ranch.
-This would seem to indicate that it was somewhere on the Gulf. We had
-provisions sufficient for one day, one canteen of fresh water, and
-another so mixed with the salt water that we would not use it except
-as a last resort.
-
-A little after 3.30 P.M. the tide changed; we launched our boat and
-went out with the flood. As we neared the mouth of the stream we found
-that the inrush and outrush of water had torn the banks. Here the
-river spread in a circular pool several miles across. It seemed almost
-as if the waters ran clear to the line of yellow cliffs and to the
-hazy mountain range. Then the shores closed in again just before the
-current divided quite evenly on either side of a section of the barren
-plain named Montague Island. We took the channel to the east.
-
-Our last hope of finding the ranch was in a dried-out river channel,
-overgrown with trees. But although we looked carefully as we passed,
-there was no sign of a trail or of human life. Some egrets preened
-their silken feathers on the bank; sand-hill cranes and two coyotes,
-fat as hogs and dragging tails weighted with mud, feasted on the
-lively hermit-crabs, which they extracted from their holes--and that
-was all.
-
-The sun, just above the lilac-tinted mountains, hung like a great
-suspended ball of fire. The cloudless sky glared like a furnace. Deep
-purple shadows crept into the canyons slashing the mountain range. The
-yellow dust-waves and the mirages disappeared with the going down of
-the sun. Still we were carried on and on. We would go down with the
-tide. Now the end of the island lay opposite the line of cliffs; soon
-we would be in the Gulf.
-
-So ended the Colorado. Two thousand miles above, it was a beautiful
-river, born of a hundred snow-capped peaks and a thousand crystal
-streams; gathering strength, it became the masterful river which had
-carved the hearts of mountains and slashed the rocky plateaus,
-draining a kingdom and giving but little in return. Now it was going
-under, but it was fighting to the end. Waves of yellow struggled up
-through waves of green and were beaten down again. The dorsal fins of
-a half-dozen sharks cut circles near our craft. With the last
-afterglow we were past the end of the island and were nearing the
-brooding cliffs. Still the current ran strong. The last vestige of day
-was swallowed in the gloom, just as the Colorado was buried 'neath the
-blue. A hard wind was blowing, toward the shore; the sea was choppy. A
-point of rocks where the cliffs met the sea was our goal. Would we
-never reach it? Even in the night, which was now upon us, the distance
-was deceptive. At last we neared the pile of rocks. The sound of
-waters pounding on the shore was heard, and we hurriedly landed, a
-half-mile above it, just as the tide turned.
-
-The beach was a half-mile wide, covered with mud and sloughs. There
-was no high shore. But an examination showed that the tide ran back to
-the cliffs. One of us had to stay with the boat. Telling Phillipps to
-get what sleep he could, I sat in the boat, and allowed the small
-breakers which fox-chased each other to beat it in as the tide rose.
-
-An arctic explorer has said that having an adventure means that
-something unexpected or unforeseen has happened; that some one has
-been incompetent. I had the satisfaction of knowing that the fault of
-this adventure, if such it could be called, was mine. Here we were, at
-our goal in Mexico, supposed to be a hostile land, with scant
-provisions for one day. It was a hundred miles along the line of
-cliffs, back to Yuma. So far, we had failed to find the ranch. It was
-not likely that it was around the point of rocks. We knew now that the
-Colorado channel was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river, and
-was not a slough as we had supposed. Doubtless the ranch was up there.
-Our best plan was to return to the head of the tide, going up the
-Colorado, then if we did not find the ranch we would abandon the boat,
-snare some birds, keep out of the scorching heat, and travel in the
-morning and evening. Two active men should be able to do that without
-difficulty.
-
-So the hours passed, with the breakers driving the boat toward the
-line of cliffs. When it had reached its highest point, I pulled into a
-slough and tied up, then woke Al as we had agreed. While I slept, he
-climbed the cliffs to have a last look. An hour after daybreak he
-returned. Nothing but rock and desert could be seen. We dragged the
-boat down in the slime of the slough until we caught the falling tide.
-Then Al rigged up his sail. With the rising sun a light breeze blew in
-from the Gulf. Here was our opportunity. Slowly we went up against the
-falling tide. Then as the breeze failed, the tide returned. Fifty feet
-away a six foot black sea bass floated; his rounded back lifted above
-the water. With the approach of the boat he was gone. The sharks were
-seen again.
-
-Two hours later we had entered the mouth of the river carried by the
-rising tide. Several miles were left behind. Another breeze came up as
-the tide failed, and the sail was rigged up again. Things were coming
-our way at last. Al knew how to handle a boat. Running her in close to
-the top of the straight falling banks I could leap to the land, take a
-picture, then run and overtake the boat, and leap on again.
-
-Then the wind shifted, the tide turned, and we tied up, directly
-opposite the point where we had camped the afternoon before. It was
-the hottest day we had seen Whirlwinds, gathering the dust in slender
-funnels, scurried across the plains. Mirages of trees bordering
-shimmering lakes and spreading water such as we had come through below
-Yuma were to be seen, even out towards the sea. Then over toward the
-cliffs where the old Colorado once ran we saw a column of distant
-smoke. Perhaps it was a hunter; it could hardly be the ranch. As we
-could do nothing with the boat, we concluded to walk over that way. It
-was many miles distant. Taking everything we had, including our last
-lunch, we started our walk, leaving a cloth on a pole to mark the
-point where our boat was anchored. But after going four miles it still
-seemed no nearer than before, so we returned. It was evening. The
-water was drinkable again; that was something to be thankful for. By
-ten o'clock that night the tide would come up again. After dark we
-found that our boat was being beached. So we ran it down and began
-pulling it along over a shoal reaching far out from the shore. As we
-tugged I was sure I heard a call somewhere up the river. What kind of
-a land was this! Could it be that my senses were all deceiving me as
-my eyes were fooled by the mirage? I had heard it, Al had not, and
-laughed when I said that I had. We listened and heard it again,
-plainly this time, "Can't you men find a landing? We have a good one
-up here," it said.
-
-We asked them to row down, advising them to keep clear of the shoal.
-We waded out, guided by their voices, in the pitch darkness and neared
-the boat.
-
-One shadowy form sat in either end of a flat-bottomed boat. There was
-a mast, and the boat was fitted for two oarsmen as well. Evidently the
-load was heavy, for it was well down in the water. The sail cloth was
-spread over all the boat, excepting one end where there was a small
-sheet-iron stove, with a pan of glowing wood coal underneath. The
-aroma of coffee came from a pot on the stove. As I steadied myself at
-the bow I touched a crumpled flag,--Mexican, I thought,--but I could
-not see. Both figures sat facing us, with rifles in their hands, alert
-and ready for a surprise. Smugglers! I thought; guns, I imagined. They
-could not see our faces in the dark, neither could we distinguish
-theirs. Judging by their voices they were young men. I thought from
-the first that they were Mexicans, but they talked without accent.
-They could see that we carried no arms, but their vigilance was not
-relaxed. They asked what our trouble was and we told them of the
-beached boat, what we had been doing, and why we were there. They said
-they were out for a little sight-seeing trip down in the Gulf. They
-might go to Tiburone Island. One of them wondered if it was true that
-the natives were cannibals. He said he would not care about being
-shot, but he would hate to be put in their stew-pot. We asked them how
-much water they carried. A fifteen-gallon keg was all They hoped to
-get more along the coast. It is quite well known there is none. They
-professed to be uninformed about the country, did not know there was a
-ranch or a tidal bore, and thanked us for our information about the
-tides, and the advice to fill their keg when the water was lowest,
-which would be in half an hour. They could not sell any provisions,
-but gave us a quart of flour.
-
-As we talked an undermined bank toppled over, sounding like shots from
-a gun. One cocked his rifle on the impulse, then laughed when he
-realized what it was. Just before we parted one of them remarked, "You
-came through the Bee River four days ago, near a telephone, didn't
-you?" "Yes, but we didn't see any one," I replied.
-
-"No? But we saw you!" And we felt the smiles we could not see.
-
-They said the large ranch had some Chinamen clearing the highest
-ground, and building levees around it to keep the water out. The
-telephone and a motor boat connected the different ranches. Their
-advice to us was to keep to the river, not to look for the ranch, but
-to get on the telephone and raise a racket until some one showed up.
-
-Then we parted to go to our respective landings, with mutual wishes
-for a successful journey. The boat was pulled down. The tide was on
-the point of turning, but it would be an hour before there would be
-any strength to it. I went to shore and built a fire of some
-driftwood, for the long stand in the water had chilled me. Al stayed
-with the boat. Earlier in the day, I cautiously shook the sticks loose
-from the matted grass, fearing the rattlers which were everywhere. In
-this case nothing buzzed. But I had no sooner got my fire well started
-when a rattler began to sing, roused by the light and the heat, about
-twenty feet away. My fire was built beside one of the many sloughs
-which cut back through the grass and ended in the barren soil. These
-sloughs were filled with water when the tide was in and made ideal
-landing places, especially if one had to avoid a big tidal bore.
-Getting on the opposite side of the fire, I tossed a stick
-occasionally to keep him roused. Soon another joined, and between them
-they made the air hum. By this time I was thoroughly warmed and felt
-that the boat would be the best place for me. Carefully extinguishing
-my fire, I went down to the river just as the tide returned. Without
-any sign or call from the shore we were carried up with the tide. We
-were both weary but I dared not sleep, so I merely kept the boat away
-from the shores and drifted, while Phillipps slept. I had picked out a
-guiding star which I little needed while the current was running
-strong, but which would give us our course when the tide changed, for
-we could be carried out just as easily.
-
-But an hour after we left our camp another light appeared, growing
-larger and larger. It was one of two things. Either my fire was not
-extinguished, or a match thrown down by one of the others had fired
-the deep dry grass. I consoled myself that it could not spread, for
-the sloughs and the barren soil would cut it off. I had a grim
-satisfaction when I thought of the snakes and how they would run for
-the desert land. This was a real guiding star, growing larger and
-larger as we were carried up the stream. I slept on shore when the
-tide would take us no farther. Phillipps got breakfast. We were now
-about three miles from the slough. After breakfast we alternately
-towed the boat, for there was no wind to carry us up this morning, and
-two hours later arrived at the diverging streams. Near by we saw some
-mules showing evidence of having been worked. It was clear now that
-the ranch was near. There was still a chance that we would take the
-wrong stream. Over on the opposite side was a tall cottonwood tree.
-This I climbed, and had the satisfaction of seeing some kind of a shed
-half a mile up the east stream. The land between proved to be a large
-island. As we neared the building two swarthy men emerged and came
-down to the shore. "Buenos d�as," Al called as we pulled in to the
-landing.
-
-"Buenos d�as, Se�or," they answered with a smile.
-
-They were employees of the Rancho La Bolso, which was a half-mile up
-the stream.
-
-Did we make the big fire which had burned until morning?
-
-Our answer seemed to relieve their minds.
-
-What would we do with our boat? It was theirs to do with as they
-pleased. Leading two horses from out of the building, they mounted and
-told us to climb on behind, and away we rode across some water-filled
-sloughs. Hidden in the trees we came to the buildings--three or four
-flat-topped adobe houses. Some little brown children scattered to
-announce our coming.
-
-As we dismounted two white men approached. "Why, hello, Phillipps!"
-the ranch boss said when he saw my companion. "This is a long walk
-from Yuma. You fellows are just in time to grub!"
-
-NOTES
-
-[Footnote 1: The various expeditions which are credited with
-continuous or complete journeys through all the canyons and the dates
-of leaving Green River, Wyoming, are as follows:
-
-     Major Powell, 1st journey. May 24, 1869.
-
-     Major Powell, 2nd journey. May 22, 1871. Discontinued at Kanab
-       Canyon in the Grand Canyon.
-
-     Galloway. Sept. 20, 1895 and 1896.
-
-     Flavell. Aug. 27, 1896.
-
-     Stone. Sept. 12, 1909.
-
-     Kolb. Sept. 8, 1911.
-
-For a more complete record of the earlier parties see appendix.]
-
-[Footnote 2: The initials E.C. apply to my brother, Emery C. Kolb;
-E.L. to myself. These initials are frequently used in this text. For
-several years the nick-name "Ed" has been applied to me, and in my
-brothers' narratives I usually figure as Ed.]
-
-[Footnote 3: It is not unusual for certain individual animals to be
-outlawed or to have a price set on their heads by the stockmen's
-associations, in addition to the regular bounty paid by the counties.
-At the time this is written there is a standing reward of $200 for a
-certain "lobo," or timber wolf which roams over the Kaibab Forest
-directly opposite our home in the Grand Canyon. In addition to this
-there is a bounty of $10 offered by the county. This wolf has taken to
-killing colts and occasional full-grown horses, in addition to his
-regular diet of yearling calves.]
-
-
-[Footnote 4: Brown-Stanton. May 25, 1889.
-
-Russell-Monnette. Sept. 20, 1907.
-
-For a more complete record of these expeditions, as well as others who
-attempted the passage of the canyons below this point, see appendix.]
-
-
-[Footnote 5: Left by the Stone expedition.]
-
-[Footnote 6: While Major Powell was making his second voyage of
-exploration, another party was toiling up these canyons towing their
-boats from the precipitous shores. This party was under the leadership
-of Lieutenant Wheeler of the U.S. Army. The party was large, composed
-of twenty men, including a number of Mojave Indians, in the river
-expedition, while others were sent overland with supplies to the mouth
-of Diamond Creek. By almost superhuman effort they succeeded in
-getting their boats up the canyon as far as Diamond Creek. While there
-is no doubt that they reached this point, there were times when we
-could hardly believe it was possible when we saw the walls they would
-have to climb in this granite gorge. In some places there seemed to be
-no place less than five hundred feet above the river where they could
-secure a foothold. Their method was to carry a rope over these places,
-then pull the boats up through the rapids by main force. It would be
-just as easy to pull a heavy rowboat up the gorge of Niagara, as
-through some of these rapids. Their best plan, by far, would have been
-to haul their boats in at Diamond Creek and make the descent, as they
-did after reaching this point. The only advantage their method gave
-them was a knowledge of what they would meet with on the downstream
-run. Lieutenant Wheeler professed to disbelieve that Major Powell had
-descended below Diamond Creek, and called his voyage the completion of
-the exploration of the Colorado River. In a four days' run they
-succeeded in covering the same distance that had taken four weeks of
-endless toil, to bring their boats up to this point.]
-
-[Footnote 7: See appendix, History of Cataract Canyon.]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming
-to Mexico, by E. L. Kolb
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON ***
-
-***** This file should be named 13150-8.txt or 13150-8.zip *****
-This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
-        https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/1/5/13150/
-
-Produced by Ted Garvin, Keith M. Eckrich, and the Project Gutenberg
-Online Distributed Proofreaders Team
-
-
-Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
-will be renamed.
-
-Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
-one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
-(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
-permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
-set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
-copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
-protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
-Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
-charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
-do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
-rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
-such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
-research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
-practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
-subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
-redistribution.
-
-
-
-*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
-
-THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
-PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
-
-To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
-distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
-(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
-Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
-https://gutenberg.org/license).
-
-
-Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works
-
-1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
-and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
-(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
-the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
-all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
-If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
-terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
-entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
-
-1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
-used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
-agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
-things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
-paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
-and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
-
-1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
-or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
-collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
-individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
-located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
-copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
-works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
-are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
-Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
-freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
-this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
-the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
-keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
-Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
-
-1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
-what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
-a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
-the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
-before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
-creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
-Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
-the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
-States.
-
-1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
-
-1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
-access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
-whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
-phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
-copied or distributed:
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
-from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
-posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
-and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
-or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
-with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
-work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
-through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
-Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
-1.E.9.
-
-1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
-with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
-must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
-terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
-to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
-permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
-
-1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
-work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
-
-1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
-electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
-prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
-active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm License.
-
-1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
-compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
-word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
-distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
-"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
-posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
-you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
-copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
-request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
-form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
-
-1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
-performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
-unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
-access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
-that
-
-- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
-     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
-     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
-     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
-     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
-     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
-     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
-     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
-     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
-     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
-     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
-     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
-
-- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
-     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
-     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-     License.  You must require such a user to return or
-     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
-     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
-     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
-     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
-     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
-     of receipt of the work.
-
-- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
-     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
-forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
-both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
-Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
-Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
-
-1.F.
-
-1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
-effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
-public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
-collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
-"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
-corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
-property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
-computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
-your equipment.
-
-1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
-of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
-liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
-fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
-LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
-PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
-TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
-LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
-INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
-DAMAGE.
-
-1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
-defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
-receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
-written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
-received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
-your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
-the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
-refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
-providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
-receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
-is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
-opportunities to fix the problem.
-
-1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
-in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
-WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
-WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
-
-1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
-warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
-If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
-law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
-interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
-the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
-provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
-
-1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
-trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
-providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
-with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
-promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
-harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
-that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
-or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
-work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
-Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
-
-
-Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
-electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
-including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
-because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
-people in all walks of life.
-
-Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
-assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
-goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
-remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
-and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
-To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
-and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
-and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
-
-
-Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
-Foundation
-
-The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
-501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
-state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
-Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
-number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
-https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
-permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
-
-The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
-Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
-throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
-809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
-business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
-information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
-page at https://pglaf.org
-
-For additional contact information:
-     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
-     Chief Executive and Director
-     gbnewby@pglaf.org
-
-
-Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
-spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
-increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
-freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
-array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
-($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
-status with the IRS.
-
-The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
-charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
-States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
-considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
-with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
-where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
-SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
-particular state visit https://pglaf.org
-
-While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
-have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
-against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
-approach us with offers to donate.
-
-International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
-any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
-outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
-
-Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
-methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
-ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
-donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
-
-
-Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works.
-
-Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
-concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
-with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
-Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
-
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
-editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
-unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
-keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
-
-
-Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
-
-     https://www.gutenberg.org
-
-This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
-including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
-subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/old/13150-8.zip b/old/13150-8.zip
deleted file mode 100644
index 59850b4..0000000
--- a/old/13150-8.zip
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/13150.txt b/old/13150.txt
deleted file mode 100644
index 7bcf9c1..0000000
--- a/old/13150.txt
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,8632 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to
-Mexico, by E. L. Kolb
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-Title: Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico
-
-Author: E. L. Kolb
-
-Release Date: August 10, 2004 [EBook #13150]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ASCII
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Ted Garvin, Keith M. Eckrich, and the Project Gutenberg
-Online Distributed Proofreaders Team
-
-
-
-
-
-THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
-
-
-By E.L. Kolb
-
-
-With a Foreword by Owen Wister
-
-
-New Edition
-With Additional Illustrations
-(72 Plates)
-From Photographs by the Author and His Brother
-
-
-
-1915
-
-
-
-Dedication
-
-TO THE MANY FRIENDS WHO "PULLED" FOR US, IF NOT WITH US DURING THE ONE
-HUNDRED ONE DAYS OF OUR RIVER TRIP, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY
-DEDICATED.
-
-
-
-
-FOREWORD
-
-
-It is a dogged courage of which the author of this book is the serene
-possessor--shared equally by his daring brother; and evidence of this
-bravery is made plain throughout the following pages. Every youth who
-has in him a spark of adventure will kindle with desire to battle his
-way also from Green River to the foot of Bright Angel Trail; while
-every man whose bones have been stiffened and his breath made short by
-the years, will remember wistfully such wild tastes of risk and
-conquest that he, too, rejoiced in when he was young.
-
-Whether it deal with the climbing of dangerous peaks, or the descent
-(as here) of some fourteen hundred miles of water both mysterious and
-ferocious, the well-told tale of a perilous journey, planned with head
-and carried through with dauntless persistence, always holds the
-attention of its readers and gives them many a thrill. This tale is
-very well told. Though it is the third of its kind, it differs from
-its predecessors more than enough to hold its own: no previous
-explorers have attempted to take moving pictures of the Colorado River
-with themselves weltering in its foam. More than this: while the human
-race lasts it will be true, that any man who is lucky enough to fix
-upon a hard goal and win it, and can in direct and simple words tell
-us how he won it, will write a good book.
-
-Perhaps this planet does somewhere else contain a thing like the
-Colorado River--but that is no matter; we at any rate in our continent
-possess one of nature's very vastest works. After The River and its
-tributaries have done with all sight of the upper world, have left
-behind the bordering plains and streamed through the various gashes
-which their floods have sliced in the mountains that once stopped
-their way, then the culminating wonder begins. The River has been
-flowing through the loneliest part which remains to us of that large
-space once denominated "The Great American Desert" by the vague maps
-in our old geographies. It has passed through regions of emptiness
-still as wild as they were before Columbus came; where not only no man
-lives now nor any mark is found of those forgotten men of the cliffs,
-but the very surface of the earth itself looks monstrous and extinct.
-Upon one such region in particular the author of these pages dwells,
-when he climbs up out of the gulf in whose bottom he has left his boat
-by the River, to look out upon a world of round gray humps and hollows
-which seem as if it were made of the backs of huge elephants. Through
-such a country as this, scarcely belonging to our era any more than
-the mammoth or the pterodactyl, scarcely belonging to time at all,
-does the Colorado approach and enter its culminating marvel. Then, for
-283 miles it inhabits a nether world of its own. The few that have
-ventured through these places and lived are a handful to those who
-went in and were never seen again. The white bones of some have been
-found on the shores; but most were drowned; and in this water no
-bodies ever rise, because the thick sand that its torrent churns along
-clogs and sinks them.
-
-This place exerts a magnetic spell. The sky is there above it, but not
-of it. Its being is apart; its climate; its light; its own. The beams
-of the sun come into it like visitors. Its own winds blow through it,
-not those of outside, where we live. The River streams down its
-mysterious reaches, hurrying ceaselessly; sometimes a smooth sliding
-lap, sometimes a falling, broken wilderness of billows and whirlpools.
-Above stand its walls, rising through space upon space of silence.
-They glow, they gloom, they shine. Bend after bend they reveal
-themselves, endlessly new in endlessly changing veils of colour. A
-swimming and jewelled blue predominates, as of sapphires being melted
-and spun into skeins of shifting cobweb. Bend after bend this trance
-of beauty and awe goes on, terrible as the Day of Judgment, sublime as
-the Psalms of David. Five thousand feet below the opens and barrens of
-Arizona, this canyon seems like an avenue conducting to the secret of
-the universe and the presence of the gods.
-
-Is much wonder to be felt that its beckoning enchantment should have
-drawn two young men to dwell beside it for many years; to give
-themselves wholly to it; to descend and ascend among its buttressed
-pinnacles; to discover caves and waterfalls hidden in its labyrinths;
-to climb, to creep, to hang in mid-air, in order to learn more and
-more of it, and at last to gratify wholly their passion in the great
-adventure of this journey through it from end to end? No siren song
-could have lured travellers more than the siren silence of the Grand
-Canyon: but these young men did not leave their bones to whiten upon
-its shores. The courage that brought them out whole is plain
-throughout this narrative, in spite of its modesty.--OWEN WISTER.
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE
-
-
-This is a simple narrative of our recent photographic trip down the
-Green and Colorado rivers in rowboats--our observations and
-impressions. It is not intended to replace in any way the books
-published by others covering a similar journey. Major J.W. Powell's
-report of the original exploration, for instance, is a classic,
-literary and geological; and searchers after excellence may well be
-recommended to his admirable work.
-
-Neither is this chronicle intended as a handbook of the territory
-traversed--such as Mr. F.S. Dellenbaugh's two volumes: "The Romance of
-the Grand Canyon," and "A Canyon Voyage." We could hardly hope to add
-anything of value to his wealth of detail. In fact, much of the data
-given here--such as distances, elevations, and records of other
-expeditions--is borrowed from the latter volume. And I take this
-opportunity of expressing our appreciation to Mr. Dellenbaugh for his
-most excellent and entertaining books.
-
-We are indebted to Mr. Julius F. Stone, of Columbus, Ohio, for much
-valuable information and assistance. Mr. Stone organized a party and
-made the complete trip down the Green and Colorado rivers in the fall
-and winter of 1909, arriving at Needles, California, on November 27,
-1909. He freely gave us the benefit of his experience and presented us
-with the complete plans of the boats he used.
-
-One member of this party was Nathan Galloway, of Richfield, Utah. To
-him we owe much of the success of our journey. Mr. Galloway hunts and
-traps through the wilds of Utah, Colorado, and Arizona, and has a fame
-for skill and nerve throughout this entire region. He makes a yearly
-trip through the upper canyons, usually in a boat of his own
-construction; and in addition has the record of being the only person
-who has made two complete trips through the entire series of canyons,
-clear to Needles. He it is who has worked out the type of boats we
-used, and their management in the dangerous waters of the Colorado.
-
-We have tried to make this narrative not only simple, as we say, but
-truthful. However, no two people can see things in exactly the same
-light. To some, nothing looks big; to others, every little danger is
-unconsciously magnified out of all proportion. For instance, we can
-recall rapids which appeared rather insignificant at first, but which
-seemed decidedly otherwise after we had been overturned in them and
-had felt their power--especially at the moment when we were sure we
-had swallowed a large part of the water that composed them.
-
-The reader will kindly excuse the use of the first person, both
-singular and plural. It is our own story, after all, and there seems
-to be no other way than to tell it as you find it here.
-
-
-
-
-+CONTENTS+
-
-
-CHAPTER                                          PAGE
-
-    I. PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING    1
-
-   II.  INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING     12
-
-  III. THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS              22
-
-   IV. SUSPICIOUS HOSTS                            36
-
-    V. THE BATTLE WITH LODORE                      50
-
-   VI. HELL'S HALF MILE                            64
-
-  VII. JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN                71
-
- VIII. AN INLAND EXCURSION                         83
-
-   IX. CANYON OF DESOLATION                        93
-
-    X. HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN                        102
-
-   XI. WONDERS OF EROSION                         111
-
-  XII. COULD WE SUCCEED?                          121
-
- XIII. A COMPANION VOYAGER                        129
-
-  XIV. A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS               142
-
-   XV. PLACER GOLD                                156
-
-  XVI. A WARNING                                  169
-
- XVII. A NIGHT OF THRILLS                         178
-
-XVIII. MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS              190
-
-  XIX. SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME                 203
-
-   XX. ONE MONTH LATER                            219
-
-  XXI. WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT                 235
-
- XXII. SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE     249
-
-XXIII. THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS       267
-
- XXIV. ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD                    280
-
-  XXV. FOUR DAYS TO YUMA                          290
-
- XXVI. ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER                   303
-
-XXVII. THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA                     321
-
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-The Grand Canyon near the mouth of Ha Va Su Creek     _Frontispiece_
-
-
-After a difficult picture. E. C. Kolb on rope...................   2
-
-In the Grand Canyon near the Little Colorado....................   6
-
-The start at Green River, Wyoming...............................  10
-
-Fire Hole Chimneys..............................................  10
-
-A typical butte formation.......................................  14
-
-Boats and crew. Photo taken in the Grand Canyon.................  18
-
-Skeleton found in the Grand Canyon..............................  22
-
-Inside of the first canyons.....................................  26
-
-Tilted rocks at Kingfisher Canyon...............................  26
-
-"Immense rocks had fallen from the cliff".......................  36
-
-Ashley Falls, looking down-stream...............................  40
-
-The rocks were dark red; occasional pines grew on the ledges,
-  making a charming combination of colour.......................  44
-
-"We stopped at one hay ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line"...  48
-
-Remarkable entrance to Lodore Canyon............................  52
-
-"The river cut a channel under the walls" at Lower Disaster
-  Falls.........................................................  56
-
-"Everything was wet"............................................  56
-
-A Colorado River salmon.........................................  60
-
-Lodore Canyon as seen from Brown's Park.........................  60
-
-"The Canyon was gloomy and darkened with shreds of clouds"......  64
-
-"It took nine loads to empty one boat"..........................  68
-
-"An upright log was found wedged between the boulders"..........  68
-
-Echo Cliffs. "This was the end of Lodore".......................  72
-
-End of Echo Cliffs. The mouth of the Yampa River is on the
- right..........................................................  72
-
-Marvels of erosion..............................................  76
-
-"Here was one end of the rainbow of rock that began on the
-  other side of the mountains"..................................  80
-
-Pat Lynch: the canyon hermit....................................  84
-
-Each bed was placed in a rubber and a canvas sack...............  90
-
-"Now for a fish story" ......................................... 100
-
-The centre of three symmetrical formations in the Double Bow
-  Knot.......................................................... 114
-
-The Buttes of the Cross......................................... 118
-
-"The Land of Standing Rocks was like a maze".................... 122
-
-Rocks overhanging the Colorado's Gorge.......................... 122
-
-Thirteen hundred feet above the Green River..................... 124
-
-The junction of the Green and the Grand Rivers.................. 128
-
-Looking west into Cataract Canyon............................... 132
-
-Charles Smith and his boat...................................... 132
-
-A narrow channel at Rapid No. 22................................ 136
-
-Developing tests................................................ 136
-
-Rapid No. 22 in Cataract Canyon................................. 140
-
-The _Edith_ in a cataract....................................... 144
-
-A seventy-five-foot drop in three-fourths of a mile............. 144
-
-Camp in the heart of Cataract Canyon............................ 148
-
-Lower Cataract Canyon. Boats tandem............................. 152
-
-Beginning of a natural bridge. Glen Canyon...................... 152
-
-Pictographs in Glen Canyon...................................... 158
-
-Cliff ruins near San Juan River................................. 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking south........................... 162
-
-Rainbow Natural Bridge, looking north........................... 166
-
-Glen Canyon near Navajo Mountain................................ 170
-
-Upper Marble Canyon............................................. 170
-
-Placer dredge at Lee's Ferry.................................... 174
-
-Badger Creek Rapid.............................................. 180
-
-Bands of marble in Marble Canyon................................ 180
-
-A peaceful camp in Marble Canyon................................ 184
-
-The Soap Creek Rapid; a little above lowest stage. Photo
-  published by permission of Julius F. Stone.................... 188
-
-"It was too good a camp to miss"................................ 192
-
-Arch in Marble Canyon........................................... 192
-
-Walls of Marble Canyon.......................................... 196
-
-Approaching the Grand Canyon.................................... 200
-
-End of Marble Canyon, from the mouth of the Little Colorado..... 204
-
-Cataracts of the Little Colorado River.......................... 204
-
-End of Hance Trail. Small white line is an intrusion of quartz
-  in the algonkian.............................................. 208
-
-Below the Sockdologer........................................... 210
-
-The Rust Tramway. Span four hundred and fifty feet.............. 214
-
-Bright Angel Creek and Canyon................................... 218
-
-Leaving home, Dec. 19, 1911..................................... 222
-
-A composite picture of Marble Canyon walls and a Grand Canyon
-  rapid......................................................... 222
-
-The _Edith_ (on left of central rock) in Granite Falls.......... 226
-
-Rough water in Hermit Creek Rapid............................... 230
-
-Type of rapid in the granite near Bass Trail.................... 234
-
-The inner plateau, thirteen hundred feet above the river........ 238
-
-Bert Lauzon, above Separation Rapid............................. 238
-
-The break in the _Edith_........................................ 242
-
-Merry Christmas. The repair was made with bilge boards, canvas,
-  paint, and tin................................................ 242
-
-Pulling clear of a rock......................................... 246
-
-A shower bath................................................... 246
-
-Grand Canyon at the mouth of Ha Va Su Canyon. Medium high
-  water. Frontispiece shows same place in low water............. 250
-
-"Morning revealed a little snow," on the top.................... 252
-
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section between the highest
-  sheer walls in the lower gorge................................ 252
-
-Lava Falls. Lava on left, hot springs on right.................. 254
-
-Swift water in Tapeets Creek Rapid.............................. 260
-
-Lauzon, equipped with a life preserver on a rope, on guard
-  below a rapid................................................. 260
-
-In the last granite gorge....................................... 260
-
-Capt. Burro: a Ha Va Supai...................................... 266
-
-The Last Portage. The rocks were ice-filmed. Note potholes...... 270
-
-Mooney Falls: Ha Va Su Canyon................................... 274
-
-Watching for the signal fire. Mrs. Emery and Edith Kolb......... 278
-
-The granite gorge near Bright Angel Trail....................... 282
-
-The Grand Canyon from the head of Bright Angel Trail............ 286
-
-The Cork Screw: lower end of Bright Angel Trail................. 290
-
-Zoroaster Temple from the end of Bright Angel Trail............. 298
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon from the Rim......................... 308
-
-Winter in the Grand Canyon at the River......................... 308
-
-A vaquero in the making......................................... 318
-
-Cliff swallows' nests. Found from Wyoming to Mexico............. 318
-
-Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake................................ 326
-
-Cocopah Mountain, Mexico........................................ 326
-
-Ten miles from the Gulf of California. Coming up on a
-  twenty-foot tide.............................................. 332
-
-Sunset on the lower Colorado River.............................. 332
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I
-
-
-
-PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING
-
-Early in September of 1911 my brother Emery and I landed in Green
-River City, Wyoming, ready for the launching of our boats on our
-long-planned trip down the Green and Colorado rivers.
-
-For ten years previous to this time we had lived at the Grand Canyon
-of Arizona, following the work of scenic photography. In a general way
-we had covered much of the country adjacent to our home, following our
-pack animals over ancient and little-used trails, climbing the walls
-of tributary canyons, dropping over the ledges with ropes when
-necessary, always in search of the interesting and unusual.
-
-After ten years of such work many of our plans in connection with a
-pictorial exploration of the Grand Canyon were crowned with success.
-Yet all the while our real ambition remained unsatisfied.
-
-We wanted to make the "Big Trip"--as we called it; in other words, we
-wanted a pictorial record of the entire series of canyons on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
-
-The time had come at last, after years of hoping, after long months of
-active preparation.
-
-We stood at the freight window of the station at Green River City
-asking for news of our boats. They had arrived and could be seen in
-their crates shoved away in a corner. It was too late to do anything
-with them that day; so we let them remain where they were, and went
-out to look over the town.
-
-Green River City proved to be a busy little place noisy with switch
-engines, crowded with cattle-men and cowboys, and with hunting parties
-outfitting for the Jackson Hole country. A thoroughly Western town of
-the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people and
-surroundings that the name implies.
-
-It was busier than usual, even, that evening; for a noisy but
-good-natured crowd had gathered around the telegraph office, eager for
-news of a wrestling match then taking place in an Eastern city. As we
-came up they broke into a cheer at the news that the American wrestler
-had defeated his foreign opponent. There was a discussion as to what
-constituted the "toe-hold," three boys ran an impromptu foot-race,
-there was some talk on the poor condition of the range, and the party
-began to break up.
-
-The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel; feeling, in
-spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome and very much out of place.
-Our sleep that night was fitful and broken by dreams wherein the
-places we had known were strangely interwoven with these new scenes
-and events. Through it all we seemed to hear the roar of the Rio
-Colorado.
-
-We looked out of the window the next morning, on a landscape that was
-novel, yet somehow familiar. The river, a quarter of a mile away, very
-clear and unruffled under its groves of cottonwood, wound through low
-barren hills, as unlike as could be to the cliffs and chasms we knew
-so well. But the colours--gray, red, and umber, just as Moran has
-painted them--reassured us. We seemed not so far from home, after all.
-
-It was Wyoming weather, though; clear and cold, after a windy night.
-When, after breakfast, we went down to the river, we found that a
-little ice had formed along the margin.
-
-The days of final preparation passed quickly--with unpacking of
-innumerable boxes and bundles, checking off each article against our
-lists; and with a long and careful overhauling of our photographic
-outfit.
-
-This last was a most important task, for the success of our expedition
-depended on our success as photographers. We could not hope to add
-anything of importance to the scientific and topographic knowledge of
-the canyons already existing: and merely to come out alive at the
-other end did not make a strong appeal to our vanity. We were there as
-scenic photographers in love with their work, and determined to
-reproduce the marvels of the Colorado's canyons, as far as we could do
-it.
-
-In addition to three film cameras we had 8 x 10 and 5 x 7 plate
-cameras; a plentiful supply of plates and films; a large cloth
-dark-room; and whatever chemicals we should need for tests. Most
-important of all, we had brought a motion-picture camera. We had no
-real assurance that so delicate an apparatus, always difficult to use
-and regulate, could even survive the journey--much less, in such
-inexperienced hands as ours, reproduce its wonders. But this,
-nevertheless, was our secret hope, hardly admitted to our most
-intimate friends--that we could bring out a record of the Colorado as
-it is, a live thing, armed as it were with teeth, ready to crush and
-devour.
-
-There was shopping to do; for the purchases of provisions, with a few
-exceptions, had been left to the last. There were callers, too--an
-embarrassing number of them. We had camped on a small island near the
-town, not knowing when we did so that it had recently been put aside
-for a public park. The whole of Green River City, it seemed, had
-learned of our project, and came to inspect, or advise, or jeer at us.
-The kindest of them wished us well; the other sort told us "it would
-serve us right"; but not one of our callers had any encouragement to
-offer. Many were the stories of disaster and death with which they
-entertained us. One story in particular, as it seems never to have
-reached print--though unquestionably true--ought to be set down here.
-
-Three years before two young men from St. Louis had embarked here,
-intending to follow the river throughout its whole course. They were
-expert canoeists, powerful swimmers, and equipped with a steel boat,
-we were told, built somewhat after the style of a canoe. They chose
-the time of high water--not knowing, probably, that while high water
-decreases the labour of the passage, it greatly increases the danger
-of it. They came to the first difficult rapid in Red Canyon, seventy
-odd miles below Green River City. It looked bad to them. They landed
-above it and stripped to their underclothing and socks. Then they
-pushed out into the stream.
-
-Almost at once they lost control of the boat. It overturned; it rolled
-over and over; it flung them off and left them swimming for their
-lives. In some way, possibly the currents favouring, they reached the
-shore. The boat, with all its contents, was gone. There they were,
-almost naked, without food, without weapons, without the means of
-building a fire; and in an uninhabited and utterly inhospitable
-country.
-
-For four days they wandered, blistered by the sun by day; nearly
-frozen at night, bruised by the rocks, and torn by the brambles.
-Finally they reached the ranch at the head of the canyons and were
-found by a half-breed Indian, who cared for them. Their underwear had
-been made into bindings for their lacerated feet; they were nearly
-starved, and on the verge of mental collapse. After two weeks'
-treatment in the hospital at Green River City they were partially
-restored to health. Quite likely they spent many of the long hours of
-their convalescence on the river bank, or on the little island,
-watching the unruffled stream glide underneath the cottonwoods.
-
-Such tales as this added nothing to our fears, of course--for the
-whole history of the Colorado is one long story of hardship and
-disaster, and we knew, even better than our advisors, what risks lay
-before us. We told our newfound friends, in fact, that we had lived
-for years on the brink of the Grand Canyon itself, a gorge deeper and
-more awful, even, than Lodore; with a volume of water ten times
-greater. We knew, of course, of the river's vast length, of the
-terrible gorges that confined it, of the hundreds of rapids through
-which a boat would have to pass.
-
-We knew, too, how Major Powell, undismayed by legends of underground
-channels, impassable cataracts, and whirlpools; of bloodthirsty tribes
-haunting its recesses,--had passed through the canyons in safety,
-measuring and surveying as he went. We also knew of the many other
-attempts that had been made--most of them ending in disaster or death,
-a very few being successful.
-
-Well, it had been done;[1] it could be done again--this was our answer
-to their premonitions.
-
-We had present worries enough to keep us from dwelling too much on the
-future. It had been our intention to start two weeks earlier, but
-there had been numerous unavoidable delays. The river was low; "the
-lowest they had seen it in years" they told us, and falling lower
-every day. There were the usual difficulties of arranging a lot of new
-material, and putting it in working order.
-
-At last we were ready for the boats, and you may be sure we lost no
-time in having them hauled to the river, and launching them.
-
-They were beauties--these two boats of ours--graceful, yet strong in
-line, floating easily, well up in the water, in spite of their five
-hundred pounds' weight. They were flat-bottomed, with a ten-inch rake
-or raise at either end; built of white cedar, with unusually high
-sides; with arched decks in bow and stern, for the safe storing of
-supplies. Sealed air chambers were placed in each end, large enough to
-keep the boats afloat even if filled with water. The compartment at
-the bow was lined with tin, carefully soldered, so that even a leak in
-the bottom would not admit water to our precious cargoes. We had
-placed no limit on their cost, only insisting that they should be of
-materials and workmanship of the very best, and strictly in accordance
-with our specifications. In every respect but one they pleased us.
-Imagine our consternation when we discovered that the hatch covers
-were anything but water-tight, though we had insisted more upon this,
-perhaps, than upon any other detail. Loose boards, with cross-pieces,
-fastened with little thumbscrews--there they were, ready to admit the
-water at the very first upset.
-
-There was nothing to be done. It was too late to rebuild the hatches
-even if we had had the proper material. Owing to the stage of water it
-was imperative that we should start at once. Bad as it would be to
-have water in our cargo, it would be worse to have too little water in
-the rock-obstructed channels of Red Canyon, or in the "flats" at
-Brown's Park for instance.
-
-Certainly the boats acted so beautifully in the water that we could
-almost overlook the defective hatches. Emery rowed upstream for a
-hundred yards, against a stiff current, and came back jubilant.
-
-"They're great--simply great!" he exclaimed.
-
-We had one real cause for worry, for actual anxiety, though; and as
-each hour brought us nearer to the time of departure, we grew more and
-more desperate. What about our third man?
-
-We were convinced that a third man was needed; if not for the duties
-of camp making, helping with the cooking and portaging; at least, for
-turning the crank of the motion-picture camera. Emery and I could not
-very well be running rapids, and photographing ourselves in the rapids
-at the same time. Without a capable assistant, therefore, much of the
-real purpose would be defeated.
-
-Our first move, accordingly, had been to secure the services of a
-strong, level-headed, and competent man. Friends strongly advised us
-to engage a Canadian canoe-man, or at least some one familiar with the
-management of boats in rough water. It was suggested, also, that we
-might secure the help of some one of the voyagers who had been members
-of one of the previous expeditions.
-
-But--we may as well be frank about it--we did not wish to be piloted
-through the Colorado by a guide. We wanted to make our own trip in our
-own way. If we failed, we would have no one but ourselves to blame; if
-we succeeded, we would have all the satisfaction that comes from
-original, personal exploration. In other words, we wanted a man to
-execute orders, not to give them. But that man was hard to find!
-
-There had been many applicants; some of them from distant parts of the
-country. One by one they were sifted out. At length we decided on one
-man; but later he withdrew. We turned elsewhere, but these
-applications were withdrawn, until there remained but a single letter,
-from a young man in San Francisco. He seemed in every way qualified.
-We wrote accepting his application, but while waiting to hear from us
-a civil service position had been offered and accepted. "He was
-sorry"; and so were we, for his references proved that he was a
-capable man. Later he wrote that he had secured a substitute. We
-replied on the instant, by wiring money for transportation, with
-instructions for the new man to report at once at Green River. We took
-very much for granted, having confidence in our friends' sincerity and
-knowledge of just what was required.
-
-The time had passed, two days before; but--no sign of our man! We
-wrote, we telegraphed, we walked back and forth to every train; but
-still he did not come. Had this man, too, failed us?
-
-Then "Jimmy" came--just the night before we were to leave. And never
-was a man more heartily welcome!
-
-With James Fagen of San Francisco our party was complete. He was an
-Irish-American, aged 22 years, a strong, active, and willing chap. To
-be sure, he was younger, and not so experienced at "roughing it" as we
-had hoped. But his good qualities, we were sure, would make up for
-what was lacking.
-
-Evening found us encamped a half mile below the town, the county
-bridge. Our preparations were finished--even to the final purchase of
-odds and ends; with ammunition for shot-gun and rifle. We threw our
-sleeping-bags on the dry ground close to the river's edge, and, all
-our anxieties gone, we turned our faces to the stars and slept.
-
-At daybreak we were aroused by the thunder of hoofs on the bridge
-above us, and the shouts of cowboys driving a large herd of
-half-broken horses. We tumbled into our clothes, splashed our faces
-with ice-cold water from the river, and hurried over to the hotel for
-a last breakfast.
-
-Then we sat down--in the little hotel at Green River City--as others
-had done before, to write last messages to those who were nearest and
-dearest to us. A telegram to our parents in an Eastern city; and
-another to Emery's wife and little girl, at Bright Angel, more than
-eight hundred miles down this self-same river--these, somehow, took
-longer to write than the letters themselves. But whatever we may have
-felt, we finished this final correspondence in silence, and hurried
-back to the river.
-
-Something of a crowd had gathered on the bridge to wish us _bon
-voyage_. Shouting up to them our thanks for their hospitality, and
-telling them to "look pleasant," we focussed the motion-picture camera
-on them, Emery turning the crank, as the boat swung out into the
-current.
-
-So began our journey, on Friday, September the 8th, 1911, at 9.30
-A.M., as entered in my journal.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II
-
-
-
-INTERESTING SIGHTS OF SOUTHERN WYOMING
-
-All this preparation--and still more, the vexatious delays--had been a
-heavy tax upon us. We needed a vacation. We took it--six pleasant
-care-free days--hunting and fishing as we drifted through the sixty
-miles of southern Wyoming. There were ducks and geese on the river to
-test our skill with the shot-gun. Only two miles below Green River
-City Emery secured our first duck, a promise of good sport to follow.
-An occasional cottontail rabbit was seen, scurrying to cover through
-the sage-brush, when we made a detour from the boats. We saw many
-jack-rabbits too--with their long legs, and exaggerated
-ears--creatures swifter, even, than the coyotes themselves.
-
-We saw few people, though an occasional rancher hailed us from the
-shore. Men of the open themselves, the character of our expedition
-appealed to them. Their invitations to "come up to the ranch, and
-spend the evening" were always hearty, and could seldom be refused if
-the day was nearly gone.
-
-The Logan boys' ranch, for instance, was our first camp; but will be
-one of the last to be forgotten. The two Logan boys were sturdy,
-companionable young men, full of pranks, and of that bubbling,
-generous humour that flourishes in this Western air. We were amused by
-their kindly offer to allow Jimmy to ride "the little bay"--a
-beautiful animal, with the shifty eye of a criminal. But Jimmy, though
-city-bred, was not to be trapped, and declined; very wisely, as we
-thought. We photographed their favourite horses, and the cabin; also
-helped them with their own camera, and developed some plates in the
-underground storm-cellar,--a perfect dark-room, as it happened.
-
-We took advantage of this pleasant camp to make a few alterations
-about our boats. Certain mechanical details had been neglected in our
-desire to be off, our intention being to look after them as occasion
-demanded. Our short run had already shown us where we were weak or
-unprepared. The rowlocks needed strengthening. One had come apart in
-our first brush with a little riffle. The rowlocks were of a
-little-used type, but very serviceable in dangerous waters. Inside the
-usual rowlock a heavy ring was hung, kept in place by strong
-set-screws, but allowing full play in every direction. These rings
-were slipped over the oars; then the usual leather collar was nailed
-on the oar, making it impossible for the rings to become separated
-from the oars. The holes for the set-screws were too shallow, so we
-went over the entire lot to deepen them. We foresaw where a break
-might occur, and hung another lock of the open type on a cord, beside
-each oar, ready for instant use in case of emergency.
-
-The Logan boys, seeing our difficulties in making some of these
-changes, came to our relief. "Help yourselves to the blacksmith shop,"
-they said heartily. Here was an opportunity. Much time was consumed in
-providing a device to hold our extra oars--out of the way on top of
-the deck, but available at a moment's notice. Thanks to the Logan boys
-and their blacksmith shop, these and many other little details were
-corrected once for all; and we launched our boats in confidence on the
-morning of September 10.
-
-A few miles below we came to the locally famous Fire Hole Chimneys,
-interesting examples of the butte formation, so typical of the West.
-There were several of these buttes, about 800 feet high, composed of
-stratified rock; in colour quite similar to the rocks at Green River
-City, but capped with rock of a peculiar burnt appearance, though not
-of volcanic origin. Some of the buttes sloped up from the very edge of
-the river; others were separated from the river by low flats, covered
-with sage-brush and bunch-grass,--that nutritious food of the range
-stock. At the water's edge was the usual fringe of willows,
-cottonwoods, and shrubs innumerable,--all mirrored in the limpid
-surface of Green River.
-
-At the foot of the cliffs were a number of wild burros, old and
-young--fuzzy little baby-burros, looking ridiculously like
-jack-rabbits--snorting their indignation at our invasion of their
-privacy. Strange, by the way, how quickly these wild asses lose their
-wildness of carriage when broken, and lapse into the utmost docility!
-
-Just below the Chimneys Emery caught sight of fish gathered in a deep
-pool, under the foliage of a cottonwood tree which had fallen into the
-river. Our most tempting bait failed to interest them; so Emery, ever
-clever with hook and line, "snagged" one just to teach them better
-manners. It was a Colorado River salmon or whitefish. That evening I
-"snagged" a catfish and used this for salmon bait, a fourteen-pound
-specimen rewarding the attempt.
-
-These salmon were old friends of ours, being found from one end to the
-other of the Colorado, and on all its tributaries. They sometimes
-weigh twenty-five or thirty pounds, and are common at twenty pounds;
-being stockily built fish, with large, flat heads. They are not gamey,
-but afford a lot of meat with a very satisfying flavour.
-
-On September 11, about forty miles below Green River, we passed
-Black's Fork, a tributary entering from the west. It is a stream of
-considerable length, but was of little volume at that time. The banks
-were cliffs about 300 feet high, rugged, dark, and overhanging. Here
-were a half dozen eagles and many old nests--proof enough, if proof
-were needed, that we were in a little visited country. What strong,
-splendid birds they were; how powerful and graceful their flight as
-they circled up, and up, into the clear blue sky!
-
-Our next camp was at the Holmes' ranch, a few miles below Black's
-Fork. We tried to buy some eggs of Walter Holmes, and were told that
-we could have them on one condition--that we visit him that evening.
-This was a price we were only too glad to pay, and the evening will
-linger long in our memories.
-
-Mr. Holmes entertained us with stories of hunting trips--after big
-game in the wilds of Colorado; and among the lakes of the Wind River
-Mountains, the distant source of the Green River. Mrs. Holmes and two
-young ladies entertained us with music; and Jimmy, much to our
-surprise, joined in with a full, rich baritone. It was late that night
-when we rolled ourselves in our blankets, on the banks twenty feet
-above the river.
-
-Next morning we were shown a group of Mrs. Holmes' pets--several young
-rabbits and a kitten, romping together in the utmost good fellowship.
-The rabbits had been rescued from a watery grave in an irrigation
-ditch and carefully nursed back to life. We helped her search for a
-lame wild duck that had spurned the offer of a good home with
-civilized ducklings, and had taken to the sage-brush. Mrs. Holmes'
-love of wild animals, however, failed to include the bald-headed eagle
-that had shown such an appetite for her spring chickens.
-
-A few miles below this ranch we passed Bridger Crossing, a ford on an
-old trail through southern Wyoming. In pioneer days Jim Bridger's home
-was on this very spot. But those romantic days are long since past;
-and where this world-famous scout once watched through the loopholes
-of his barricade, was an amazed youngster ten or eleven years old who
-gazed on us, then ran to the cabin and emerged with a rifle in his
-hands. We thought little of this incident at the time, but later we
-met the father of the boy and were told that the children had been
-left alone with the small boy as their only protector, and that he
-stood ready to defend the home against any possible marauders. No
-doubt we looked bad enough to him.
-
-Just below the ford the channel widened, and the river became very
-shallow, the low rolling hills falling away into a wide green prairie.
-We camped that night on a small island, low and treeless, but covered
-with deep, rank grass. Next morning our sleeping-bags were wet with
-frost and dew. A hard pull against a heavy wind between gradually
-deepening rocky banks made us more than glad to pitch camp at noon a
-short distance above the mouth of Henry's Fork, a considerable stream
-flowing from the west. In the afternoon Emery and I decided to walk to
-Linwood, lying just across the Utah line, four miles up Henry's Fork.
-Jimmy preferred to remain with the boats.
-
-Between the river and a low mesa lay a large ranch of a different
-appearance from those others which we had passed. Those past were
-cattle ranches, with stock on the open range, and with little ground
-fit for cultivation, owing to the elevation. Here we found great,
-broad acres, fenced and cultivated, with thoroughbred stock--horses
-and cattle--contentedly grazing.
-
-This pastoral scene, with a background of rugged mountains, appealed
-strongly to our photographic instincts. After three or four exposures,
-we climbed the farthest fence and passing from alfalfa to sage-brush
-in one step, were at the foot of the mesa.
-
-Climbing to the summit, we beheld the village in the distance, in a
-beautiful green valley--a splendid example of Mormon irrigation and
-farming methods. Linwood proved to be the market-place for all the
-ranchers of this region. Dotting the foot-hills where water was less
-plentiful were occasional cabins, set down in the middle of hay
-ranches. All this husbandry only emphasized the surrounding
-desolation. Just beyond, dark in the southern sky, rose the great
-peaks of the Uintah range, the mountains we were so soon to enter.
-
-Storm-clouds had been gathering about one great snow-covered peak, far
-in the distance. These clouds spread and darkened, moving rapidly
-forward. We had taken the hint and were already making all possible
-haste toward the town, hoping to reach it before the storm broke. But
-it was useless. Long before we had gained the edge of the valley the
-rain had commenced in the mountains,--small local storms, resembling
-delicate violet-coloured veils, hung in the dense pall of the clouds.
-There were far flashes of lightning, and the subdued roar of distant
-thunder, rapidly growing louder as the storm approached. Unable to
-escape a drenching, we paused a moment to wonder at the sight; to
-marvel--and shrink a little too--at the wild, incessant lightning. The
-peaks themselves seemed to be tumbling together, such was the
-continuous roar of thunder, punctuated by frequent deafening crashes.
-
-Then the storm came down upon us. Such torrents of rain we have seldom
-witnessed: such gusts of driving wind! At times we could scarcely make
-headway against it, but after most strenuous effort we neared the
-village. We hoped to find shelter under a bridge, but found
-innumerable muddy streams running through the planks. So we resumed
-our plodding, slipping and sliding in the black, bottomless mud.
-
-The storm by this time had passed as quickly as it came. Wet to our
-skins, we crawled into the little store and post-office combined,
-and found it filled with ranch hands, waiting for the weekly mail.
-We made a few purchases, wrote some letters, then went to a large
-boarding-house near by and fortified ourselves with a generous,
-hot supper.
-
-There were comments by some of the men on our venture, but they lacked
-the true Green River tang. Here, close to the upper canyons, the
-unreasonable fear of the rapids gave way to a reasonable respect for
-them. Here we heard again of the two young men from St. Louis, and the
-mishaps that had befallen them. Here too we were to hear for the first
-time of the two Snyders, father and son, and the misfortunes that had
-overtaken them in Lodore Canyon, twenty years before. We were to hear
-more of these men later.
-
-We made what haste we could back to our boats, soon being overtaken by
-a horseman, a big-hearted Swede who insisted on carrying our load as
-long as we were going in his direction. How many just such instances
-of kindliness we were to experience on our journey down the river! How
-the West abounds with such men! It was dark when he left us a mile
-from the river. Here there was no road to follow, and we found that
-what had been numerous dry gullies before were now streams of muddy
-water. Two or three of these streams had to be crossed, and we had a
-disagreeable half hour in a marsh. Finally we reached the river, but
-not at the point where we had left our boats. We were uncertain
-whether the camp was above or below us, and called loudly for Jimmy,
-but received no answer.
-
-Emery felt sure that camp was upstream. So upstream we went, keeping
-back of the bushes that fringed the banks, carefully searching for a
-sign. After a few minutes' hunt we heard a sound: a subdued rumble,
-not unlike the distant thunder heard that afternoon, or of boats being
-dragged over the pebbles. What could it be? We listened again,
-carefully this time, and discovered that it came from a point about
-thirty feet away, on the opposite side of the bushes. It could be only
-one thing. Jimmy's snore had brought us home!
-
-Hurriedly securing some dry clothes from the rubber sacks, which
-contained our sleeping-bags as well, we made a quick change, and slid
-into the beds, inflating the air mattresses with our lungs after we
-were inside. Then we lay down contentedly to rest.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III
-
-
-
-THE GATEWAY OF ALL THE CANYONS
-
-We awoke the next morning full of anticipation. Something new lay
-ahead of us, a promise of variety. In plain sight of our camp lay the
-entrance to Flaming Gorge, the gateway to the entire series of
-canyons. Hurriedly finishing our camp duties, we loaded the boats,
-fastened down the hatches, and shoved off into the current, eager to
-be on our way.
-
-It was cloudy overhead and looked as if we were to have more rain.
-Even then it must have been raining away to the north, for a dirty,
-clay-colored torrent rushed through the dry arroyo of the night
-before, a stream large enough to discolour the water of the Green
-itself. But we thought little of this. We were used to seeing muddy
-water in the Colorado's gorges; in fact we were surprised to find
-clear water at all, even in the Green River. Rowing downstream we
-found that the country sloped gently towards the mountains. The river
-skirted the edge of these foot-hills as if looking for a possible
-escape, then turned and entered the mountain at a sharp angle. The
-walls sloped back considerably at first, and there was a little shore
-on either side.
-
-Somewhere near this point runs the dividing line of Wyoming and Utah.
-
-We considered the gateway a subject worthy of a motion picture, if
-taken from the deck of the boat; but doubted if it would be a success
-owing to the condition of the light and the motion of the boat. Still
-it was considered worthy of a trial, and the film was run through.
-
-The colour of the rocks at the entrance was a light red, but not out
-of the ordinary in brilliancy. The rock formation was stratified, but
-displaced; standing at an angle and flexed over on top with a ragged
-break here and there, showing plainly the great pressure to which the
-rocks had been subjected. The upheaval was not violent, the scientists
-tell us, but slow and even, allowing the river to maintain its old
-channel, sawing its way through the sandstone. The broken canyon
-walls, when well inside the gorge, were about 600 to 700 feet high.
-The mountains beyond and on either side were much higher. The growth
-on the mountain sides was principally evergreen; Douglas fir, the
-bull-pine and yellow pine. There was a species of juniper, somewhat
-different from the Utah juniper, with which we were familiar at the
-Grand Canyon. Bushes and undergrowth were dense above the steep canyon
-walls, which were bare. Willows, alder-thickets, and a few cottonwood
-trees lined the shores.
-
-Meanwhile the current had quickened, almost imperceptibly at first,
-but enough to put us on our guard. While there were no rapids, use was
-made of what swift water we found by practising on the method we would
-use in making a passage through the bad rapids. As to this method,
-unused as yet by either of us, we had received careful verbal
-instruction from Mr. Stone, who had made the trip two years before our
-own venture; and from other friends of Nathan Galloway, the trapper,
-the man who first introduced the method on the Green and Colorado
-rivers.
-
-Our experience on water of any kind was rather limited. Emery could
-row a boat, and row it well, before we left Green River, but had never
-gone over any large rapids. While he was not nearly so large or heavy
-as I,--weighing no more than 130 pounds, while I weighed 170
-pounds,--he made up for his lighter weight by a quickness and strength
-that often surprised me. He was always neat and clever in his method
-of handling his boat, taking a great deal of pride in keeping it free
-from marks, and avoiding rocks when making a landing. I had done very
-little rowing before leaving Green River, so little that I had
-difficulty in getting both oars in the water at the same time. Of
-course it did not take me long to learn that; but I did not have the
-knack of making clean landings, and bumped many rocks that my brother
-missed. Still I was improving all the time and was anxious to get into
-the rough water, feeling sure I would get through somehow, but doing
-my best in the meantime to get the knack of handling the boat properly
-before the rough water was reached.
-
-An occasional rock would stick up above the surface; the swift water
-would rush up on it, or drive past on either side. Instead of pulling
-downstream with might and main, and depending on a steersman with a
-sweep-oar to keep us clear of obstructions--the method usually adopted
-on large rivers, and by the earlier parties on the Colorado--by our
-method the single oarsman reversed his boat so that it was turned with
-the stern downstream, giving the oarsman a view of what was ahead;
-then by pulling upstream the boat was held in check. We allowed
-ourselves to be carried in a direct line with the rocks ahead,
-approaching them as closely as we dared; then, with a pull on one oar,
-the boat was turned slightly at an angle to the current, and swung to
-one side or the other; just as a ferry is headed into the current, the
-water itself helping to force it across. The ferry is held by a cable;
-the boat, by the oarsman; the results are quite similar.
-
-The boats, too, were somewhat unusual in design, having been carefully
-worked out by Galloway after much experience with the problem, and
-after building many boats. He finally settled on the design furnished
-us by Mr. Stone. The flat bottom, sloping up from the centre to either
-end, placed the boats on a pivot one might say, so that they could be
-turned very quickly, much more quickly than if they had had a keel.
-There was a four foot skag or keel under the stern end of the boat,
-but this was only used when in quiet water; and as it was never
-replaced after being once removed we seldom refer to it. Being
-flat-bottomed, they drew comparatively little water, a matter quite
-important on low water such as we found in the Green River. While each
-boat carried a weight of seven hundred pounds in addition to its own
-five hundred pounds, they often passed over rocks less than ten inches
-below the surface, and did so without touching. While the boats were
-quite large, the arched decks made them look even larger. A
-considerable amount of material could be stored under these decks. The
-only part of the boat that was entirely open or unprotected from the
-waves was the cockpit, or mid-section occupied by the oarsman. This
-was only large enough for one man. A second man had to sit on the deck
-behind the oarsman, with his feet hanging into the cockpit. Jimmy
-occupied this place of honour as we drifted through the placid water;
-first on one boat, then on the other, entertaining us meanwhile with
-his songs.
-
-We encountered two splashy little rapids this day, but with no rocks,
-or any dangerous feature whatever. Any method, or none at all, was
-safe enough in these rapids.
-
-The colouring of the rocks changed as we proceeded, and at the lower
-end of the short canyon we saw the flaming patch of colour that had
-suggested its name to Major Powell, forty-two years before.
-Intensified on that occasion by the reflected light of a gorgeous
-sunset, it must have been a most brilliant spectacle.
-
-Two beavers slid into the water when we were close beside them, then
-rose to the surface to stare curiously when we had passed. We left
-them undisturbed. Some geese decoyed us into an attempt to ambush
-them, but they kept always just out of reach of our guns. Wise
-fellows, those geese!
-
-A geological fault accompanied by the breaking down of the walls marks
-the division between Flaming Gorge and Horseshoe Canyon, which
-immediately follows. We nooned here, opposite a deserted cabin. A
-trail dropped by easy stages over the slope on the east side; and
-fresh tracks showed that sheep had recently been driven down to the
-water's edge.
-
-Passing through Horseshoe,--another very short canyon,--we found deep,
-placid pools, and sheer, light red walls rising about four hundred
-feet on either side, then sloping back steeply to the tree-covered
-mountains. In the middle of this canyon Emery was startled out of a
-day-dream by a rock falling into the water close beside him, with
-never a sound of warning. Years spent in the canyons had accustomed
-Emery and me to such occurrences; but Jimmy, unused to great gorges
-and towering cliffs, was much impressed by this incident. After all,
-it is only the unusual that is terrible. Jimmy was ready enough to
-take his chances at dodging bricks hurled by a San Francisco
-earthquake, but never got quite used to rocks descending from a source
-altogether out of sight. Small wonder, after all! Later we were to
-experience more of this thing, and on a scale to startle a stoic!
-
-We halted at the end of Horseshoe, early in the afternoon of September
-14, 1911, one week out from Green River City. Camp No. 6 was pitched
-on a gravelly shore beside Sheep Creek, a clear sparkling stream,
-coming in from the slopes of the Uintah range. Just above us, on the
-west, rose three jagged cliffs, about five hundred feet high,
-reminding one by their shape of the Three Brothers of Yosemite Valley.
-Here, again, we were treated to another wonderful example of geologic
-displacement, the rocks of Horseshoe Canyon lying in level strata;
-while those of Kingfisher, which followed, were standing on end. Sheep
-Creek, flowing from the west, finds an easy course through the fault,
-at the division of the canyons. The balance of this day was spent in
-carefully packing our material and rearranging it in our boats, for we
-expected hard work to follow.
-
-Tempted by the rippling song of the brook, and by tales of fish to be
-found therein, we spent two hours fishing from its banks on the
-morning of the 15th. But the foliage of overhanging trees and shrubs
-was dense, making it difficult to cast our lines, or even to climb
-along its shores, and our small catch of two trout, which were fried
-with a strip of bacon to add flavour, only whetted our appetites for
-more.
-
-It was a little late in the season for many birds. Here in Kingfisher
-Canyon were a few of the fish-catching birds from which the canyon
-took its name. There were many of the tireless cliff-swallows
-scattered all through these canyons, wheeling and darting, ever on the
-wing. These, with the noisy crested jays, an occasional "camp-robber,"
-the little nuthatches, the cheerful canyon wren with his rollicking
-song, the happy water-ousel, "kill-deer," and road-runners and the
-water birds,--ducks, geese, and mud-hens, with an occasional
-crane,--made up the bird life seen in the open country and in these
-upper canyons. Earlier in the season it must be a bird's paradise, for
-berries and seeds would then be plentiful.
-
-We resumed our journey at 10 A.M., a very short run bringing us to the
-end of Kingfisher Canyon. The three canyons passed through approximate
-hardly more than ten miles in length, different names being given for
-geological reasons, as they really form only one canyon. The walls at
-the end were broken down, and brilliantly tinted talus of many hues
-covered the slopes, the different colours intermingling near the
-bottom. The canyon-walled river turned southeast here, and continued
-in this general direction for many miles, but with many twists and
-turns.
-
-We had previously been informed that Red Canyon, the next to follow,
-while not considered bad when compared to others, gave one the
-experience most necessary to combat the rapids farther down. It was
-not without danger, however, as a review of previous expeditions
-showed: some had lost their lives, still others, their boats; and one
-of Major Powell's parties had upset a boat in a Red Canyon rapid. The
-stage of water was so different on these previous attempts that their
-experiences were of little value to us one way or the other. A
-reference to pictures taken by two of these parties showed us there
-was considerable more water when they went through--six, and even
-eight feet higher in places. Possibly this would be the best stage on
-which to make the voyage in heavy boats. The unfortunate ones had
-taken the spring rise, or flood water, with disastrous results to
-themselves or their boats.
-
-We soon found that our passage was to be hard on account of having too
-little water. In the quiet water above we had been seldom bothered
-with shoals; but now that we were in swifter water, there was scarcely
-any depth to it at all, except in the quiet pools between the rapids.
-
-For a description of our passage through this upper end of Red Canyon
-we refer to our journal: sketchy notes jotted down, usually in the
-evening just before retiring, by the light of a camp-fire, or the
-flickering flame of a candle. Under the date of Friday, September the
-15th, we find the following:
-
-     "End of Kingfisher: long, quiet pools and shoals where we
-     grounded a few times; several small, splashy rapids; then a
-     larger one near an old boat landing. Looked the rapid over
-     from the shore. Jim remained at the lower end with a
-     life-preserver on a rope, while we ran the rapid. Struck one
-     or two rocks, lightly; but made the run in safety."
-
-     "At the third rapid we saw some geese--but they got away. At
-     noon we ate a cold lunch and because of the low water
-     removed the skags, carrying them in the cockpit. The scenery
-     in upper Red Canyon is impressive: pines and fir come down
-     on the sloping sides to the river's edge; the rocks are
-     reddish brown in colour, often broken in squares, and
-     looking like great building blocks piled one upon another.
-     The canyon is about fifteen hundred feet deep; the river is
-     clear again, and averages about two hundred feet in width.
-     We have seen a few deer tracks, but have not seen any deer.
-     We also saw some jumping trout in a splashy little rapid.
-     Doubtless they came from a little creek, close by, for we
-     never heard of trout being found in the Green River."
-
-     "We made a motion picture, while dropping our boats down
-     with lines, over the first rapid we considered bad. Emery
-     remained in the boats, keeping clear of the rocks with a
-     pole. Powell's second party records an upset here. We passed
-     Kettle Creek about 5 P.M. In the fifth rapids below Kettle
-     Creek I got on the wrong side of the river and was carried
-     into a very rocky rapid--the worst so far encountered. I
-     touched a rock or two at the start, but made the run in
-     safety; while Emery ran the opposite side without trouble.
-     We camped beside a small stream on the south, where there
-     were signs of an old camp."
-
-     "_Saturday, September 16_. Clear and cold in the early
-     morning. Started about 9 A.M. Lined our boats past a
-     difficult rapid. Too many rocks, not enough water. Two or
-     three miles below this I had some difficulty in a rapid, as
-     the pin of a rowlock lifted out of the socket when in the
-     middle of rough water. Emery snapped a picture just as it
-     happened. A little later E.C.[2] ran a rocky rapid, but had
-     so much trouble that we concluded to line my boat. Noon.
-     Just a cold lunch, but with hot coffee from the vacuum
-     bottles. Then at it again."
-
-     "The scenery is wonderful; the canyon is deeper than above;
-     the river is swift and has a decided drop. We proceed
-     cautiously, and make slow progress. We camp for the day on
-     the north side close to a little, dry gully, on a level sage
-     and bunch-grass covered bottom back from the river's edge.
-     An abruptly descending canyon banked with small cottonwood
-     trees coming in from the opposite side contains a small
-     stream. Put up our tent for the second time since leaving
-     Green River, Wyoming. We are all weary, and glad to-morrow
-     is Sunday--a day of rest."
-
-     "_Sunday, September 17._ E.C. and I follow a fresh deer
-     track up a game trail and get--a rabbit. Climb out about
-     1300 feet above the river to the top of the narrow canyon.
-     Here is a sloping plateau, dotted with bunch-grass and
-     grease-wood, a fourth of a mile wide. Then rounded mountains
-     rise beyond the plateau, some of the peaks reaching a height
-     of 4000 feet above the river. The opposite side is much the
-     same, but with a wider plateau. We had no idea before what a
-     wonderful country this is. It is a picture to tempt an
-     artist. High on the mountain tops is the dark blue-green of
-     pines and firs, reds and yellows are mixed in the quaking
-     aspen,--for the frost comes early enough to catch the sap in
-     the leaves; little openings, or parks with no trees, are
-     tinted a beautiful soft gray; 'brownstone fronts' are found
-     in the canyon walls; and a very light green in the
-     willow-leafed cottonwoods at the river's edge, and in all
-     side canyons where there is a running stream. The river
-     glistens in the sunlight, as it winds around the base of the
-     wall on which we stand, and then disappears around a bend in
-     the canyon. Turn where we will, we see no sign of an
-     opening, nothing but the rounded tops of wooded mountains,
-     red and green, far as the eye can reach, until they
-     disappear in the hazy blue. Finally Emery's keen eyes, aided
-     by the binoculars, discover a log cabin at the foot of a
-     mountain, on the plateau opposite us about three miles
-     away."
-
-     "We hurry back to camp and write some letters; then Jim and
-     I cross the river and climb out over the rocky walls to the
-     plateau above. In two hours we reach the cabin. It is
-     new--not yet finished. A woman and four children are looking
-     over a garden when we arrive. They are a little frightened
-     at first, but soon recover. The woman gladly promises to
-     take out our mail when they go to the nearest town, which
-     happens to be Vernal, Utah, forty-five miles away. Three
-     other families live near by, all recently moved in from
-     Vernal. The woman tells us that Galloway hunts bear in these
-     timbered mountains, and has killed some with a price on
-     their heads--bear with a perverted taste for fresh beef."[3]
-
-     "Thanking the woman, we make our way back to the river. We
-     see some dried-out elk horns along our trail; though it is
-     doubtful if elk get this far south at present. A deer trail,
-     leading down a ravine, makes our homeward journey much
-     easier. It has turned quite cold this evening, after sunset.
-     We finish our notes and prepare to roll into our beds a
-     little earlier than usual."
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV
-
-
-
-SUSPICIOUS HOSTS
-
-We awoke bright and early the next morning, much refreshed by our day
-of rest and variety. With an early start we were soon pulling down the
-river, and noon found us several miles below the camp, having run
-eleven rapids with no particular difficulty. A reference in my notes
-reads: "Last one has a thousand rocks, and we could not miss them all.
-My rowing is improving, and we both got through fairly well." In the
-afternoon they continued to come--an endless succession of small
-rapids, with here and there a larger one. The canyon was similar to
-that at our camp above, dark red walls with occasional pines on the
-ledges,--a most charming combination of colour. At 2.30 P.M. we
-reached Ashley Falls, a rapid we had been expecting to see for some
-time. It was a place of singular beauty. A dozen immense rocks had
-fallen from the cliff on the left, almost completely blocking the
-channel--or so it seemed from one point of view. But there was a
-crooked channel, not more than twelve wide in places, through which
-the water shot like a stream from a nozzle.
-
-We wanted a motion picture of our dash through the chute. But the
-location for the camera was hard to secure, for a sheer bank of rock
-or low wall prevented us from climbing out on the right side. We
-overcame this by landing on a little bank at the base of the wall and
-by dropping a boat down with a line to the head of the rapid where a
-break occurred in the wall. Jimmy was left with the camera, the boat
-was pulled back, and we prepared to run the rapid.
-
-We first had to pass between two square rocks rising eight feet above
-the water so close together that we could not use the oars; then, when
-past these, pull ten feet to the right in order to clear the large
-rock at the end of the main dam, or barrier, not more than twenty feet
-below. To pull down bow first and try to make the turn, would mean to
-smash broadside against this rock. It could only be done by dropping
-stern first, and pulling to the right under the protection of the
-first rocks; though it was doubtful if even this could be
-accomplished, the current was so swift. The _Defiance_ was ready
-first, the _Edith_ was to follow as closely as safety allowed.
-
-Almost before I knew it I was in the narrow channel, so close to the
-right rock that I had to ship that oar, and pull altogether on the
-left one. As soon as I was through I made a few quick strokes, but the
-current was too strong for me; and a corner of the stern struck a bang
-when I was almost clear. She paused as a wave rolled over the decks,
-then rose quickly; a side current caught the boat, whirling it around,
-and the bow struck. I was still pulling with all my might, but
-everything happened so quickly,--with the boat whirling first this
-way, then that,--that my efforts were almost useless. But after that
-second strike I did get in a few strokes, and pulled into the quiet
-pool below the line of boulders.
-
-Emery held his boat in better position than I had done, and it looked
-for a while as if he would make it. But the _Edith_ struck on the
-stern, much as mine had done. Then he pulled clear and joined me in
-the shelter of the large rock, as cool and smiling as if he had been
-rowing on a mill-pond. We were delighted to find that our boats had
-suffered no damage from the blows they had received. Striking on the
-ends as they did, the shock was distributed throughout the whole boat.
-
-This completed our run for that day, and we went into camp just below
-the "Falls." Emery painted the name _Edith_ on the bow of his boat, at
-this camp. The name was given in honour of his four-year-old daughter,
-waiting for us at the Grand Canyon. I remarked that as no one loved
-me, I would name my boat the _Defiance_. But I hesitated about putting
-this name on the bow. I would look rather foolish, I thought, if the
-_Defiance_ should be wrecked in the first bad rapid. So the
-christening of my boat was left until such time as should have earned
-the title, although she was constantly referred to as the _Defiance_.
-
-We remained until noon of the following day at Ashley Falls,
-exploring, repairing, and photographing this picturesque spot. The
-canyon walls here dropped down to beautiful, rolling foot-hills eight
-or nine hundred feet high tree covered as before but more open. The
-diversity of rocks and hills was alluring. There was work to be done
-and no pleasanter spot could be found in which to do it. Among other
-things that had to be looked after were some adjustments to the
-motion-picture camera--usually referred to by us as the M.P.C.--this
-delicate work always falling to Emery, for he alone could do it.
-
-There was much to interest us here. Major Powell reported finding the
-name "Ashley" painted under an overhanging rock on the left side of
-the river. Underneath was a date, rather indistinct, but found to have
-been 1825, by Dellenbaugh, after carefully tracing the career of
-Colonel Ashley who was responsible for the record. Accompanied by a
-number of trappers, he made the passage through this canyon at that
-early day. We found a trace of the record. There were three
-letters--A-s-h--the first two quite distinct, and underneath were
-black spots. It must have been pretty good paint to leave a trace
-after eighty-six years!
-
-Resuming our journey we passed into deep canyon again,--the deepest we
-had found up to this time,--with steeply sloping, verdure-covered
-walls about 2700 feet high. The rapids still continued. At one rapid
-the remark was made that "Two feet of water would cover two hundred
-rocks so that our boats would pass over them." But we did not have the
-two feet needed.
-
-We had previously been informed that some of these mountains were the
-hiding-places of men who were "wanted" in the three states which
-bordered near here. Some escaping prisoners had also been traced to
-the mountains in this direction; then all tracks had ceased. The few
-peaceable ranchers who lived in these mountains were much alarmed over
-these reports. We found one such rancher on the plateau above the
-canyon, whom we will call Johnson for convenience,--living in one of
-the upper canyons. He sold us some provisions. In return he asked us
-to help him swim some of his horses across the river. He said the high
-water had taken out his own boat. The horses were rounded up in a
-mountain-hidden valley and driven into the water ahead of the boat.
-After securing the horses, Johnson's welcome seemed to turn to
-suspicion and he questioned our reasons for being there, wanting to
-know what we could find in that wild country to interest us. Johnson's
-sons, of whom there were several, seemed to put in most of their time
-at hunting and trapping, never leaving the house without a gun. The
-cabin home looked like an arsenal, revolvers and guns hanging on all
-the walls--even his daughters being familiar with their use. Although
-we had been very well treated after all, Mrs. Johnson especially
-having been very kind to us, we felt just a little relieved when the
-Johnson ranch was left behind. We use, in fact, a fictious name, not
-caring to visit on them the suspicions we ourselves felt in return.
-
-Another morning passed in repairing the M.P. camera, and another
-afternoon's work was necessary to get us out of the walls and the
-rapids of Red Canyon. But on the evening of the 20th, we did get out,
-and pulled into an open country known as Brown's Park, one week after
-entering Flaming Gorge. It had not been very fast travelling; but we
-were through, and with no mishap more serious than a split board on
-the side of my boat. Under favourable conditions, and in experienced
-hands, this distance might have been covered in three days. But
-meanwhile, we were gaining a lot of experience.
-
-About the lower end of Red Canyon the river turned directly east,
-paralleling the northern boundary of Utah, and continued to flow in
-this general direction until it crossed into Colorado.
-
-On emerging from Red Canyon we spied a ranch house or log cabin close
-to the river. The doors were open and there were many tracks in the
-sand, so we thought some one must be about. On approaching the house,
-however, we found the place was deserted, but with furniture, books,
-and pictures piled on the floor in the utmost confusion, as if the
-occupants had left in a great hurry. This surmise afterward proved to
-be correct; for we learned that the rancher had been murdered for his
-money, his body having been found in a boat farther down the river.
-Suspicion pointed to an old employee who had been seen lurking near
-the place. He was traced to the railroad, over a hundred miles to the
-north; but made his escape and was never caught.
-
-We found Brown's Park, once known as Brown's Hole, to be a beautiful
-valley several miles in width, and thirty-five or forty miles in
-length. The upper end of the valley was rugged in places, with rocky
-hills two or three hundred feet high. To the south, a few miles away,
-were the mountains, a continuation of those we had come through. We
-saw many cattle scattered over some of these rocky hills, grazing on
-the bunch-grass. At one place our course led us through a little
-canyon about two miles long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet
-deep. This was Swallow Canyon--a name suggested by the many birds of
-that species which had covered the canyon's walls with their little
-clay nests. The openings of some of these nests were so small that it
-scarcely seemed possible for a bird to enter.
-
-The water was deep and quiet in this short canyon, and a hard wind
-blowing up the stream made it difficult for us to gain any headway. In
-this case, too, the forms of the boat were against us. With the keel
-removed and with their high sides catching the wind, they were carried
-back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put up with it for
-a while, for those very features would prove most valuable in the
-rough-water canyons which were to follow!
-
-Emerging from the canyon at last, we saw a ferry loaded with sheep
-crossing the stream. On the left shore was a large corral, also filled
-with sheep which a half dozen men were driving back and forth into
-different compartments. Later these men told us there were 2400 sheep
-in the flock. We took their word for it, making no attempt to count
-them. The foreman of the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and
-honey,--these two articles being a welcome addition to our list of
-supplies, which were beginning to show the effects of our voracious
-appetites.
-
-We found many other log cabins and ranches as we proceeded. Some of
-them were deserted; at others men were busily engaged in cutting hay
-or the wild grass that grew in the bottoms. The fragrance of new-mown
-hay was in the air. Young boys and women were among these busy
-workers, some of the women being seated on large harvesters, handling
-the horses with as much dexterity as any of the men.
-
-The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. We
-were hailed from the shore by some of the hay ranchers, it being a
-novel sight to them to see a river expedition. At one or two of these
-places we asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and were
-given evasive answers. Finally we were told that cattle rustlers from
-the mountains made it so hard for the ranchers in the valleys that
-there was nothing for them to do but get out. They told us, also, that
-we were fortunate to get away from Johnson's ranch with our valuables!
-Our former host, we were told, had committed many depredations and had
-served one term for cattle stealing. Officers, disguised as
-prospectors, had taken employment with him and helped him kill and
-skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands, having been
-partially burned and buried. On this evidence he was afterwards
-convicted.
-
-Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions of us, the sinister
-arsenal of guns and pistols, all was explained! Quite likely some of
-these weapons had been trained against us by the trappers on the
-chance that we were either officers of the law, or competitors in the
-horse-stealing industry. For that matter we were actually guilty of
-the latter count, for come to think of it, we ourselves had helped
-them steal eight horses and a colt!
-
-The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. It
-was all so different from anything seen above. There were great
-bottoms that gave evidence of having recently been overflooded, though
-now covered with cottonwood trees, gorgeous in their autumn foliage.
-We had often wondered where all the driftwood that floated down the
-Colorado came from; but after seeing those unnumbered acres of
-cottonwoods we ceased to wonder.
-
-There were many beaver slides on the banks; and in places, numberless
-trees had been felled by these industrious animals. On one or two
-occasions we narrowly escaped splitting the sides of our boats on
-snags of trees which the beavers had buried in the bottom of the
-stream. We saw no beaver dams on the river; they were not necessary,
-for deep, quiet pools existed everywhere in Brown's Park. We saw two
-beavers in this section. One of these rose, porpoise-like, to the top
-of the water, stared at us a moment, then brought his tail down with a
-resounding smack on the top of the water, and disappeared, to enter
-his home by the subterranean route, no doubt. The river was gradually
-losing its clear colour, for the sand-bars were beginning to "work
-out," or break, making the water quite roily. In some sections of
-Brown's Park we grounded on these sand-bars, making it necessary for
-us to get out into the water, pushing and pulling on the boats until
-deeper water was reached. Sometimes the deep water came when least
-expected, the sand-bars having a disconcerting way of dropping off
-abruptly on the downstream side. Jimmy stepped off the edge of one of
-these hidden ledges while working with a boat and was for some time in
-no condition to appreciate our ill-concealed mirth.
-
-Often we would be passing along on perfectly smooth water, when
-suddenly a turmoil would rise all about us as though a geyser had
-broken out below the surface. If we happened to be directly over it,
-the boat would be rocked back and forth for a while; then all would be
-peaceful again. This was most often caused by the ledges of sand,
-anywhere from three to ten feet high breaking down or falling forward
-as their bases were undermined. In a single night a bar of this kind
-will work upstream for a distance of several feet; then the sand will
-be carried down with the current to lodge again in some quiet pool,
-and again be carried on as before. This action gives rise to long
-lines of regular waves or swells extending for some distance down the
-stream. These are usually referred to as sand-waves. These waves
-increase in size in high water; and the monotonous thump, thump of the
-boat's bottom upon them is anything but pleasant, especially if one is
-trying to make fast time.
-
-So, with something new at every turn, we pulled lazily through Brown's
-Park, shooting at ducks and geese when we came near them, snapping our
-cameras when a picture presented itself, and observing the animal life
-along the stream.
-
-We stopped at one hay-ranch close to the Utah-Colorado line and
-chatted awhile with the workers. A pleasant-faced woman named Mrs.
-Chew asked us to deliver a message at a ranch a mile or two below.
-Here also was the post-office of Lodore, Colorado, located a short
-distance above the canyon of the same name. Mrs. Chew informed us that
-they had another ranch at the lower end of Lodore Canyon and asked us
-to look them up when we got through, remarking: "You may have trouble,
-you know. Two of my sons once tried it. They lost their boat, had to
-climb out, and nearly starved before they reached home."
-
-The post-office at the ranch, found as described, without another home
-in sight, was a welcome sight to us for several reasons. One reason
-was that it afforded shelter from a heavy downpour of rain that
-greeted us as we neared it, and a better reason still was, that it
-gave us a chance to write and mail some letters to those who would be
-most anxious to hear from us.
-
-Among the messages we mailed was a picture post-card of Coney Island
-at night. In some way this card had slipped between the leaves of a
-book that I had brought from the East. I sent it out, addressed to a
-friend who would understand the joke; writing underneath the picture,
-"We have an abundance of such scenery here." The young woman who had
-charge of the office looked at the card in amazement. It was evidently
-something new to her. She told us she had never been to the railroad,
-and that her brother took the mail out on horse-back to Steamboat,
-Colorado, 140 miles distant.
-
-The rain having ceased, we returned to our boats pausing to admire a
-rainbow that arched above the canyon in the mountains, toward which we
-were headed. We remarked, jokingly, to Jimmy that this was a good
-sign. He replied without smiling that he "hoped so." Jimmy's songs had
-long since ceased, and we suspected him of homesickness. With the
-exception of a short visit to some friends on a large ranch, Jimmy had
-never been away from his home in San Francisco. This present
-experience was quite a contrast, to be sure! We did what we could to
-keep him cheered up, but with little success. Jimmy had intimated that
-he would prefer to leave at the first opportunity to reach a railroad,
-and we willingly agreed to help him in every possible way. Emery and I
-also agreed between ourselves that we would not take any unnecessary
-risks with him; but would leave him out of the boats at all rapids, if
-there was any passage around them.
-
-The river had taken a sharp turn to the south soon after passing the
-post-office, heading directly towards the mountains. Camp was pitched
-just above the mouth of Lodore. This twenty-mile canyon bears a very
-unsavory reputation, having a descent of 425 feet in that short
-distance, the greater part of the fall occurring in a space of twelve
-miles. This would mean wild water somewhere!
-
-We were camped on a spot recently occupied by some engineers of the
-United States Conservation Department, who had been trying to
-determine if it was feasible to dam the river at this place. The plan
-was to flood the hole of Brown's Park and divert the water through the
-mountains by a tunnel to land suitable for cultivation and in
-addition, allow the muddy water to settle and so prevent the vast
-amount of silt from being washed on down, eventually to the mouth of
-the Colorado. The location seemed admirably suited for this stupendous
-project. But holes drilled beside the river failed to find bottom, as
-nothing but quicksand existed even at a depth of nearly three hundred
-feet; and without a strong foundation, such a dam would be utterly
-useless.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V
-
-
-
-THE BATTLE WITH LODORE
-
-Camp routine was hurriedly disposed of the next morning, Saturday,
-September the 23d. Everything was made snug beneath the hatches,
-except the two guns, which were too long to go under the decks, and
-had to be carried in the open cockpits. "Camp No. 13, at the head of
-Lodore," as it is entered in my journal, was soon hidden by a bend in
-the river. The open, sun-lit country, with its pleasant ranches and
-its grazing cattle, its rolling, gray, sage-covered hills and its wild
-grass and cottonwood-covered bottoms, was left behind, and we were
-back in the realm of the rock-walled canyon, and beetle-browed,
-frowning cliffs with pines and cedars clutching at the scanty ledges.
-
-We paused long enough to make a picture or two, with the hope that the
-photographic record would give to others some idea of the geological
-and scenic wonder--said to be the greatest known example of its
-kind--which lay before us. Here is an obstructing mountain raised
-directly in the river's path. Yet with no deviation whatever the
-stream has cut through the very centre of the peak! The walls are
-almost sheer, especially at the the bottom, and are quite close
-together at the top. A mile inside the mountain on the left or east
-side of the gorge is 2700 feet high. Geologists say that the river was
-here first and that the mountain was slowly raised in its pathway--so
-slowly that the river could saw away and maintain its old channel. The
-quicksand found below the present level would seem to indicate that
-the walls were once even higher than at present, and that a subsidence
-had taken place after the cutting.
-
-The river at the entrance of this rock-walled canyon was nothing
-alarming, four small rapids being passed without event. Then a fifth
-was reached that looked worse. The _Edith_ was lined down. This was
-hard work, and dangerous too, owing to the strength of the current and
-the many rocks; so I concluded that my own boat, the _Defiance_, must
-run the rapid. Jimmy went below, with a life-preserver on a rope.
-Emery stood beside the rapid with a camera and made a picture as I
-shot past him. Fortunately I got through without mishap. I refused to
-upset even to please my brother.
-
-We were beginning to think that Lodore was not so bad after all. Rapid
-followed rapid in quick succession, and all were run without trouble;
-then we came to a large one. It was Upper Disaster Falls; so named by
-Major Powell, for it was here that one of his boats was wrecked on his
-first voyage of exploration. This boat failed to make the landing
-above the rapid and was carried over. She struck a rock broadside,
-turned around and struck again, breaking the boat completely in two.
-This boat was built of 3/4-inch oak reenforced with bulkheads. When
-this fact is taken into consideration, some idea may be had of the
-great power of these rapids. The three men who occupied the boat saved
-themselves by reaching an island a short distance below.
-
-This all happened on a stage of water much higher than the present
-one, so we did not let the occurrence influence us one way or the
-other, except to make us careful to land above the rapid. We found a
-very narrow channel between two submerged boulders, the water plunging
-and foaming for a short distance below, over many hidden rocks. Still,
-there was only one large rock near the lower end that we greatly
-feared, and by careful work that might be avoided.
-
-The _Edith_ went first and grazed the boulder slightly, but no harm
-was done as E.C. held his boat well in hand. I followed, and struck
-rocks at the same instant on both sides of the narrow channel with my
-oars. It will be remembered that we ran all these dangerous rapids
-facing downstream. The effect of this was to shoot the ends of both
-oars up past my face. The operator said that I made a grimace just as
-he took a picture of the scrimmage.
-
-We landed on the island below and talked of camping for the night, as
-it was getting late; but the island so rocky and inhospitable that we
-concluded to try the lower part of the rapid. This had no descent like
-the upper end; but it was very shallow, and we soon found ourselves on
-rocks, unable to proceed any farther. It took an hour of hard labour
-to work our heavy boats safely to the shore.
-
-We had been hoping for a rest the next day--Sunday--but the island was
-such a disagreeable place to camp that it seemed necessary to cross to
-the mainland at least. A coil of strong, pliable wire had been
-included in our material. Here was a chance to use it to advantage.
-The stream on the left side of the island could be waded, although it
-was very swift; and we managed to get the wire across and well
-fastened at both ends. Elevating the wire above the water with
-cross-sticks, our tent and camp material were run across on a pulley,
-and camp was pitched a hundred yards below, on the left shore of the
-river.
-
-There were fitful showers in the afternoon, and we rested from our
-labour, obtaining a great deal of comfort from our tent, which was put
-up here for the third time since leaving Green River City. Always,
-when the weather was clear, we slept in the open.
-
-Monday, the 25th, found us at the same camp. Having concluded that
-Disaster Falls was an ideal place for a moving picture, we sent the
-balance of the material across on the pulley and wire, making a
-picture of the operation; stopping often because it continued to
-shower. Between showers we resumed our work and picture making.
-
-The picture was to have been concluded with the operation of lining
-the boat across. E.C. stood on the shore about sixty feet away,
-working with the camera; Jimmy was on the island, paying out the rope;
-while I waded in the water, holding the bow of the boat as I worked
-her between the rocks. Having reached the end of the rope, I coiled it
-up, advising Jimmy to go up to a safe crossing and join my brother
-while I proceeded with the boat. All was going well, and I was nearing
-the shore, when I found myself suddenly carried off my feet into water
-beyond my depth, and drifting for the lower end of the rapid.
-Meanwhile I was holding to the bow of the boat, and calling lustily to
-my brother to save me. At first he did not notice that anything was
-wrong, as he was looking intently through the finder. Then he suddenly
-awoke to the fact that something was amiss, and came running down the
-boulder-strewn shore, but he could not help me, as we had neglected to
-leave a rope with him. Things were beginning to look pretty serious,
-when the boat stopped against a rock and I found myself once more with
-solid footing under me. It was too good a picture to miss; and I found
-the operator at the machine, turning the crank as I climbed out.
-
-We developed some films and plates that evening, securing some
-satisfactory results from these tests. It continued to rain all that
-night, with intermittent showers next morning. The rain made little
-difference to us, for we were in the water much of the following day
-as he boats were taken along the edge of another unrunnable rapid, a
-good companion rapid for the one just passed.
-
-This was Lower Disaster Falls, the first of many similar rapids we
-were to see, but this was one of the worst of its kind. The
-swift-rushing river found its channel blocked by the canyon wall on
-the right side, the cliff running at right angles to the course of the
-stream. The river, attacking the limestones, had cut a channel under
-the wall, then turned and ran with the wall, emerging about two
-hundred feet below. Standing on a rock and holding one end of a
-twenty-five foot string we threw a stone attached to the other end
-across to the opposite wall. The overhanging wall was within two feet
-of the rushing river; a higher stage of water would hide the cut
-completely from view. Think what would happen if a boat were carried
-against or under that wall! We thought of it many times as we
-carefully worked our boats along the shore.
-
-Between the delays of rain, with stops for picture making, portaging
-our material, and "lining" our boats, we spent almost three days in
-getting past the rapids called Upper and Lower Disaster Falls, with
-their combined fall of 50 feet in little more than half a mile. On the
-evening of September the 26th we camped almost within sight of this
-same place, at the base of a 3000-foot sugar-loaf mountain on the
-right, tree-covered from top to bottom.
-
-Things were going too easily for us, it seemed; but we were in for a
-few reverses. It stormed much of the night and still drizzled when we
-embarked on the following morning. The narrow canyon was gloomy and
-darkened with shreds of clouds drifting far below the rim. The first
-rapid was narrow, and contained some large boulders. The _Edith_ was
-caught on one of these and turned on her side, so that the water
-flowed in, filling the cockpit. The boat was taken off without
-difficulty, and bailed out. We found that the bulkheads failed to keep
-the water out of the hatches. Some material from the _Edith_ was
-transferred to the _Defiance_. A bed, in a protecting sack of rubber
-and canvas, was shoved under the seat and we proceeded.
-
-Less than an hour later I repeated my brother's performance, but I was
-not so fortunate as he. The _Defiance_ was carried against one rock as
-I tried to pull clear of another, and in an instant she was on her
-side, held by the rush of water. I caught the gunwale, and, climbing
-on to the rock that caused the disaster, I managed to catch the rope
-and held the boat. In the meantime Emery was in a whirlpool below,
-trying to land on the right side; but was having a difficult time of
-it. Jimmy stood on the shore unable to help. The bed was washed out of
-the boat and went bobbing over the waves, then before I knew what had
-happened, the rope was jerked from my hands and I was left stranded on
-my rock. Seeing this, Jimmy ran with all his might for a pool at the
-end of the rapid, bravely rescuing the boat and the bed as well, just
-as the _Edith_ was landed. A rope was soon thrown to me, after the
-inevitable picture was made. Then I jumped and was pulled to shore.
-
-On making an inventory we found that our guns were lost from the boat.
-Being too long to go under the hatches, they had been left in the
-cockpit. The _Defiance_ had an ugly rap on the bottom, where she
-struck a rock, the wood being smashed or jammed, but not broken out.
-Nearly all material in the two boats was wet, so we took everything
-out and piled it on a piece of canvas, spread out on the sand. We
-worked rapidly, for another storm had been threatening all the
-morning.
-
-We were engaged in putting up our little tent when a violent wind
-which swept up the canyon, followed by a downpour of rain interrupted
-our work; and if anything missed a soaking before, it certainly
-received it then. The sand was beaten into our cameras and everything
-was scattered helter-skelter over the shore. We were fortunate in only
-one respect. The wind was away from the river instead of toward it. We
-finally got the tent up, then threw everything into it in an
-indiscriminate pile, and waited for the storm to pass. Emery proposed
-that we do a song and dance just to show how good we felt; but any
-appearance of merriment was rather forced.
-
-Had the builders of the boats been there, we fear they would have had
-an uncomfortable half-hour; for nearly all this loss could have been
-avoided had our instructions regarding the hatch covers been followed.
-And for the sake of their saving a few dollars we had to suffer!
-
-The rain soon passed and we went to work, first starting a fire and
-getting a hurried lunch, for we had not eaten our noon meal, and it
-was then 4 P.M. We put up our dark-room tent, then went to work to
-find what was saved, and what was lost. We were surprised to find that
-all our small films and plates had escaped a soaking. Protected in tin
-and cardboard boxes, wrapped with adhesive tape, and covered with a
-coating of paraffine melted and poured over them, they had turned the
-water in nearly every instance. The motion-picture film was not so
-fortunate. The paraffine had worn off the tin boxes in spots, the
-water soaked through the tape in some instances, and entered to the
-film. One roll, tightly wrapped, became wet on the edges; the gelatine
-swelled and stuck to the other film, thus sealing the inner portion or
-picture part of the film, so that roll was saved.
-
-The motion-picture camera was filled with water, mud and sand; and the
-other cameras fared likewise. We cleaned them out as best we could,
-drying them over small alcohol lamp which we had included in our
-duffle. Our job seemed endless. Jimmy had retired early, for he could
-help us but little in this work. It rained again in torrents, and the
-wind howled about the tent. After midnight, as we still toiled, a
-land-slide, loosened by the soaking rains, thundered down the mountain
-side about a fourth of a mile below our camp. We hoped Jimmy would not
-hear it. We retired soon after this. Smaller slides followed at
-intervals, descending over the 3000-foot precipices. Thunder
-reverberated through the canyon, and altogether it was a night long to
-be remembered. These slides made one feel a little uncomfortable. "It
-would be most inconvenient," as we have heard some one say, "to wake
-in the morning and find ourselves wrapped up in a few tons of earth
-and rock."
-
-Emery woke me the next morning to report that the river had risen
-about six feet; and that my boat--rolled out on the sand but left
-untied--was just on the Point of going out with the water. It had
-proven fortunate for us all Emery was a light sleeper! There was no
-travelling this day, as the boat had to be repaired. Emery, being the
-ship's carpenter, set to work at once, while Jimmy and I stretched our
-ropes back and forth, and hung up the wet clothes. Then we built a
-number of fires underneath and soon had our belongings in a steam.
-Things were beginning to look cheerful again. The rain stopped, too,
-for a time at least.
-
-A little later Jimmy ran into camp with a fish which he had caught
-with his hands. It was of the kind commonly called the bony-tail or
-humpback or buffalo-fish, a peculiar species found in many of the
-rivers of the Southwest. It is distinguished by a small flat head with
-a hump directly behind it; the end of the body being round, very
-slender, and equipped with large tail-fins. This specimen was about
-sixteen inches long, the usual length for a full-grown fish of this
-species.
-
-Now for a fish story! On going down to the river we found a great many
-fish swimming in a small whirlpool, evidently trying to escape from
-the thick, slimy mud which was carried in the water. In a half-hour we
-secured fourteen fish, killing most of them with our oars. There were
-suckers and one catfish in the lot. You can judge for yourself how
-thick the water was, that such mudfishes as these should have been
-choked to helplessness. Our captured fish were given a bath in a
-bucket of rain-water, and we had a fish dinner.
-
-In the afternoon we made a test of the water from the river, and found
-that it contained 20 per cent of an alkaline silt. When we had to use
-this water, we bruised the leaf of a prickly pear cactus, and placed
-it in a bucket of water. This method, repeated two or three times,
-usually clears the muddiest water. We also dug holes in the sand at
-the side of the river. The water, filtering through the sand, was
-often clear enough to develop the tests we made with our films.
-
-Jimmy continued to feel downhearted; and this afternoon he told us his
-story. Our surmise about his being homesick was correct, but it was a
-little more than that. He had an invalid mother, it seemed, and, aided
-by an older brother, he had always looked after the needs of the
-family. When the proposition of making the river trip came up, serious
-objections were raised by the family; but when the transportation
-arrived he had determined to go, in spite of their objections. Now he
-feared that his mother would not live, or that we would be wrecked,
-and he would not know where to turn, or what to do. No wonder he felt
-blue!
-
-All we could do was to promise to help him leave the river at the very
-first opportunity. This would quite likely be at Jensen, Utah, still
-fifty miles farther downstream.
-
-It continued to rain by spells that night and the next morning. About
-11 A.M. we resumed our work on the river. A short distance below our
-camp we saw the land-slide which we heard the night before--tons of
-earth and shattered rock wrapped about the split and stripped trunks
-of a half-dozen pines. The slide was started by the dislodged section
-of a sheer wall close to the top of the 2700-foot cliff. We also saw a
-boat of crude construction, pulled above the high-water mark;
-evidently abandoned a great while before. Any person who had to climb
-the walls at that place had a hard job to tackle, although we could
-pick out breaks where it looked feasible; there were a few places
-behind us where it would be next to impossible. We had only gone over
-a few rapids when we found a long pool, with driftwood eddying
-upstream, and knew that our run for the day was over--the Triplet
-Rapids were ahead of us. We found this rapid to be about a fourth of a
-mile long, divided into three sections as its name indicated, and
-filled with great boulders at the base of a sheer cliff on the
-right--another unrunnable rapid.
-
-Taking the camp material from the boats, we carried it down and
-pitched our tent first of all, then, while Emery prepared supper,
-Jimmy and I carried the remaining duffle down to camp. One of the
-boats was lined down also. Then after supper we enjoyed the first rest
-we had taken for some time.
-
-Camp Ideal we called it, and it well deserved the name. At the bottom
-of a tree-covered precipice reaching a height of 2700 feet, was a
-strip of firm, level sand, tapering off with a slope down to the
-water, making a perfect landing and dooryard. A great mass of
-driftwood, piled up at the end of the rapid, furnished us with all
-fuel we needed with small effort on our part. Our tent was backed
-against a large rock, while other flat rocks near at hand made
-convenient shelves on which to lay our camp dishes and kettles. It
-started to drizzle again that night, but what cared we? With a roaring
-fire in front of the tent we all cleaned up for a change, sewed
-patches on our tattered garments, and, sitting on our beds, wrote the
-day's happenings in our journals. Then we crawled into our comfortable
-beds, and I was soon dreaming of my boyhood days when I "played
-hookey" from school and went fishing in a creek that emptied into the
-Allegheny River, or climbed its rocky banks; to be awakened by Jimmy
-crying out in his sleep, "There she goes over the rapids."
-
-Jimmy was soon informed that he and the boats were perfectly safe, and
-I was brought back to a realization of the fact that I was not going
-to get a "whaling" for going swimming in dog-days; but instead was
-holed up in Lodore Canyon, in the extreme northwestern corner of
-Colorado.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI
-
-
-
-HELL'S HALF MILE
-
-We began our work the next morning where we left off the night before
-by bringing the remaining boat down along the edge of the "Triplets."
-Then, while Emery cooked the breakfast, Jimmy and I "broke camp." The
-beds came first. The air had been released from the mattresses before
-we got up,--one way of saving time. A change of dry clothing was
-placed with each bed, and they were rolled as tightly as the two of us
-could do it, after which they were strapped, placed in a rubber sack,
-with a canvas sack over that, both these sacks being laced at the top.
-The tent--one of those so-called balloon silk compositions--made a
-very small roll; the dark-room tent, with its three plies of cloth,
-made the largest bundle of the lot. Everything had been taken from the
-boats, and made quite a pile of dunnage, when it was all collected in
-a pile ready for loading. After the dishes were washed they were
-packed in a box, the smoke-covered pots and pans being placed in a
-sack. Everything was sorted and piled before the loading commenced. An
-equal division of nearly everything was made, so that the loss of one
-boat and its cargo would only partially cripple the expedition. The
-photographic plates and films, in protecting canvas sacks, were first
-disposed of, being stored in the tin-lined hatches in the bow of the
-boats. Two of the smaller rolls containing bedding, or clothing; a
-sack of flour, and half of the cameras completed the loads for the
-forward compartments. Five or six tin and wooden boxes, filled with
-provisions, went into the large compartments under the stern. A box
-containing tools and hardware for the inevitable repairs, and the
-weightier provisions--such as canned milk and canned meats--went in
-first. This served as ballast for the boats. Then the other provisions
-followed, the remaining rolls of bedding and tents being squeezed in
-on top. This compartment, with careful packing, would hold as much as
-two ordinary-sized trunks, but squeezing it all in through the small
-hatchway, or opening on top, was not an easy job. One thing we guarded
-very carefully from this time on was a waterproofed sack containing
-sugar. The muddy water had entered the top of this sack in our upset,
-and a liquefied sugar, or brown-coloured syrup, was used in our coffee
-and on our breakfast foods after that. It gradually dried out, and our
-emptied cups would contain a sediment of mud in the bottom.
-
-Such was our morning routine, although it was not often that
-everything was taken from the boats, and it only happened in this case
-because we made a portage the night before.
-
-Our work was all undone an hour later, when we came to the sharp
-descent known as Hell's Half Mile, A section of a cliff had fallen
-from above, and was shattered into a hundred fragments, large and
-small; gigantic rocks were scattered on both shores and through the
-river bed, not an orderly array of rocks such as that found at Ashley
-Falls, but a riotous mass, looking as though they had been hurled from
-the sky above. The stripped trunk of an eight-foot tree, with roots
-extending over the river, had been deposited by a recent flood on top
-of the principal barrier. All this was found about fifty yards below
-the beginning of the most violent descent in Lodore Canyon. It would
-have been difficult enough without this last complication; the barrier
-seemed next to insurmountable, tired and handicapped with heavy boats
-as we were.
-
-With a weary sigh we dropped our boats to the head of the rapid and
-prepared to make the portage. Our previous work was as nothing to
-this. Rounded limestone boulders, hard as flint and covered with a
-thin slime of mud from the recent rise, caused us to slip and fall
-many times. Then we dragged ourselves and loads up the sloping walls.
-They were cut with gullies from the recent rains; low scraggy cedars
-caught at our loads, or tore our clothes, as we staggered along; the
-muddy earth stuck to our shoes, or caused our feet to slip from under
-us as we climbed, first two or three hundred feet above the water,
-then close to the river's edge. Three-fourths of a mile of such work
-brought us a level place below the rapid. It took nine loads to empty
-one boat.
-
-Darkness came on before our boats were emptied, so they were securely
-tied in quiet water at the head of the rapid, and left for the
-morning.
-
-The next day found Emery and me at work on the boats, while Jimmy was
-stationed on the shore with the motion-picture camera. This wild
-scene, with its score of shooting currents, was too good a view to
-miss. With life-preservers inflated and adjusted, Emery sat in the
-boat at the oars, pulling against the current, lessening the velocity
-with which the boat was carried down toward the main barrier, while I
-followed on the shore, holding a rope, and dropped him down, a little
-at a time, until the water became too rough and the rocks too
-numerous. All directions were given with signals; the human voice was
-of little avail in the turmoil. We kept the boats in the water as long
-as it was safe to do so, for it greatly lessened the hard work of a
-portage. With one end of the boat floating on the water, an ordinary
-lift would take the other end over a rock with insufficient water
-above it to float the boat. Then the boat was balanced on the rock,
-the opposite end was lifted, she was shoved forward and dropped in the
-water again and another threatening rock was passed. Foot by foot we
-fought our way, now on the shore, now waist deep in the water below
-some protecting boulder, threatened every moment by the whirling water
-that struggled to drag us into the torrent. The sand and water
-collecting in our clothes weighted us down; the chill of standing in
-the cold water numbed our limbs. Finally the barrier was reached and
-the boats were run out close to the end, and tied in a quiet pool,
-while we devised some method of getting them past or over this
-obstruction.
-
-Directly underneath and beyond the roots of the tree were large
-rounded boulders, covered with slippery mud. Past this barrier the
-full force of the water raced, to hurl itself and divide its current
-against another rock. It was useless to try to take a boat around the
-end of the rock. The boat's sides, three-eighths of an inch thick,
-would be crushed like a cardboard box. If lifted into the V-shaped
-groove, the weight of the boats would wedge them and crush their
-sides. Fortunately an upright log was found tightly wedged between
-these boulders. A strong limb, with one end resting on a rock
-opposite, was nailed to this log; a triangle of stout sticks, with the
-point down, was placed opposite this first limb, on the same level,
-and was fastened to the upright log with still another piece; and
-another difficulty was overcome.
-
-With a short rope fastened to the iron bar or hand-hold on the stern,
-this end was lifted on to the cross-piece, the bow sticking into the
-water at a sharp angle. The short rope was tied to the stump, so we
-would not lose that we had gained. The longer rope from the bow was
-thrown over the roots of the tree above, then we both pulled on the
-rope, until finally the bow was on a level with the stern. She was
-pulled forward, the ropes were loosened and the boat rested on the
-cross-pieces. The motion-picture camera was transferred so as to
-command a view of the lower side of the barrier, then the boat was
-carefully tilted, and slid forward, a little at a time, until she
-finally gained headway, nearly jerking the rope from our hands, and
-shot into the pool below.
-
-We enjoyed the wildest ride we had experienced up to this time in
-running the lower end of this rapid. The balance of the day was spent
-in the same camp below the rapid. Our tent was put up in a group of
-box elder trees,--the first trees of this species we had seen. Red
-cedar trees dotted the rocky slopes, while the larger pines became
-scarce at the river's edge, and gathered near the top of the canyon's
-walls. The dark red rocks near the bottom were covered with a light
-blue-tinted stratum of limestone, similar to the fallen rocks found in
-the rapid above. In one land-slide, evidently struck with some rolling
-rock, lay the body of a small deer. We saw many mountain sheep tracks,
-but failed to see the sheep. Many dead fish, their gills filled with
-the slimy mud from the recent rise, floated past us, or lay half
-buried in the mud. These things were noticed as we went about our
-duties, for we were too weary to do any exploring.
-
-The next morning, Monday, October the 2d saw us making arrangements
-for the final run that would take us out of Lodore Canyon. No doubt it
-was a beautiful and a wonderful place, but none of us seemed sorry to
-leave it behind. For ten days we had not had a single day entirely
-free from rain, and instead of having a chance to run rapids, it
-seemed as if we had spent an entire week in carrying our loads, or in
-lining our boats through the canyon. The canyon walls lost much of
-their precipitous character as we neared the end of the canyon.
-
-A short run took us over the few rapids that remained, and at a turn
-ahead we saw a 300-foot ridge, brilliantly tinted in many
-colours,--light and golden yellows, orange and red, purple and
-lavender,--and composed of numberless wafer-like layers of rock,
-uptilted, so that the broken ends looked like the spines of a gigantic
-fish's back. A sharp turn to the left soon brought us to the end of
-this ridge, close to the bottom of a smooth, sheer wall. Across a
-wide, level point of sand we could see a large stream, the Yampa
-River, flowing from the East to join its waters with those of the
-Green. This was the end of Lodore Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII
-
-
-
-JIMMY GOES OVER THE MOUNTAIN
-
-The Yampa, or Bear River, was a welcome sight to us in spite of its
-disagreeable whitish yellow, clay colour; quite different from the red
-water of the Green River. The new stream meant more water in the
-channel, something we needed badly, as our past tribulations showed.
-The recent rise on the Green had subsided a little, but we now had a
-much higher stage than when we entered Lodore. Quite likely the new
-conditions gave us six feet of water above the low water on which we
-had been travelling. Would it increase or diminish our dangers? We
-were willing, Emery and I, even anxious, to risk our chances on the
-higher water.
-
-Directly opposite the Yampa, the right shore of the Green went up
-sheer about 700 feet high, indeed it seemed to overhang a trifle. This
-had been named Echo Cliffs by Powell's party. The cliffs gave a
-remarkable echo, repeating seven words plainly when shouted from the
-edge of the Yampa a hundred yards away, and would doubtless repeat
-more if shouted from the farther shore of the Yampa. Echo Cliffs, we
-found, were in the form of a peninsula and terminated just below this
-point where we stood, the river doubling back on the other side of the
-cliff. On the left side of the river, the walls fell back, leaving a
-flat, level space of about twenty-five acres. Here was a little ranch
-of which Mrs. Chew had told us. The Chew ranch lay back from the river
-on top of the cliffs. We found no one at home here at this first
-ranch, but there was evidence of recent habitation. There were a few
-peach trees, and a small garden, while beyond this were two
-buildings,--little shacks in a dilapidated condition. The doors were
-off their hinges and leaned against the building, a few logs being
-placed against the doors. Past the dooryard, coming out of a small
-canyon above the ranch, ran a little brook; up this canyon was a
-trail, the outlet to the ranch above. We camped near the mouth of the
-stream.
-
-It had been agreed upon the night before, that we should endeavour to
-make arrangements to have Jimmy taken out on horseback over the
-mountains. Before looking for the ranch, however, we asked him if he
-did not wish to reconsider his decision to leave here. We pointed out
-that Jensen, Utah, was only fifty miles away, half that distance being
-in quiet water, and that the worst canyon was behind us. But he said
-he had enough of the river and preferred to see what could be done.
-While I busied myself about camp, he and Emery left for the ranch.
-
-About seven o'clock that evening they returned in great spirits. They
-had found the ranch without any trouble nearly three miles from our
-camp. Mrs. Chew was there and gave them a hearty welcome. She had
-often wondered what had become of us. She invited the boys to remain
-for supper, which they did. They talked over the matter of
-transportation for Jimmy. As luck would have it, Mrs. Chew was going
-to drive over to Jensen, and Vernal, Utah, in two days' time, and
-agreed to take Jimmy along.
-
-Early the next morning two boys, one about fourteen years old the
-other a little older, rode down from the ranch. Some of their horses
-were pastured across the river and they had come after these. After a
-short visit they got into the _Edith_ with Emery and prepared to cross
-over to the pasture, which was a mile or more downstream. They were
-soon out of our sight. Jimmy and I remained at the camp, taking
-pictures, packing his belongings, and finding many odd jobs to be
-done. In about three hours the boys returned with their horses. The
-horses were quite gentle, and they had no difficulty in swimming them
-across. A young colt, too feeble to swim, placed its fore feet on its
-mother's flanks and was ferried across in that way. Then they were
-driven over a narrow trail skirting the cliff, 300 feet above the
-river. No one, looking from the river, would have imagined that any
-trail, over which horses could be driven, existed.
-
-The boys informed us that we were expected at the ranch for dinner,
-and would listen to no refusal so up we went, although we would have
-to make a second trip that day. The view of the ranch was another of
-those wonderful scenic changes which we were to meet with everywhere
-in this region. The flat on which we stood was simply a pocket, shut
-in by the round-domed mountains, with a pass, or an opening, to the
-east side. A small stream ran down a mountain side, spreading over the
-rocks, and glistening in the sunlight. This same stream passed the
-ranch, and ran on down through the narrow canyon up which we had come.
-The ranch itself was refreshing. The buildings were new, some were
-under construction; but there was considerable ground under
-cultivation. Cattle were scattered up the valley, or dotted the rocky
-slopes below the mountains. A wild spot this, on the borderland of the
-three states. None but people of fortitude, or even of daring, would
-think of taking up a homestead in this secluded spot. The same rumours
-of the escaped prisoners had drifted in here. It was Mr. Chew who gave
-us the information we have previously quoted concerning the murdered
-man. He had found the body in the boat, in front of the post-office.
-He further stated that others in the mountains would not hesitate at
-anything to drive out those who were trying to improve a homestead as
-he was doing, and that it was a common event to find the carcasses of
-his own horses or cattle which had been ruthlessly slaughtered. This
-was the reason for putting the horses across the river. There they
-were safe, for none could approach them save by going past the ranch,
-or coming through Lodore Canyon.
-
-Mr. Chew also told us of the Snyders, who had lost their boat in upper
-Lodore Canyon, and of how he had given them a horse and provisions to
-aid them in reaching the settlements. This did not prevent the elder
-Snyder from coming back to trap the next year, much to Mr. Chew's
-disgust. He thought one experience should be enough for any man.
-
-While we were talking, a very old, bearded man rode in on a horse. He
-was Pat Lynch, the owner of the little ranch by the river. He was a
-real old-timer, having been in Brown's Park when Major Powell was
-surveying that section of the country. He told us that he had been
-hired to get some meat for the party, and had killed five mountain
-sheep. He was so old that he scarcely knew what he was talking about,
-rambling from one subject to another; and would have us listening with
-impatience to hear the end of some wonderful tale of the early days,
-when he would suddenly switch off on to an entirely different subject,
-leaving the first unfinished.
-
-In spite of his years he was quite active, having broken the horses on
-which he rode, bareback, without assistance. We were told that he
-placed a spring or trap gun in his houses at the river, ready to greet
-any prying marauder The last we saw of him he was on his way to the
-post-office, miles away, to draw his pension for service in the Civil
-War.
-
-Returning to the transportation of Jimmy, it was settled that the
-Chews were to leave early the next morning. They also agreed to take
-out our exposed films and plate for us--something we had not counted
-on, but too good a chance to lose. We all three returned to the boats
-and packed the stuff that was to go out; then went back to the ranch
-with Jimmy. It was late--after midnight--when we reached there, and we
-did not disturb any one. Jimmy's blankets were unrolled in the wagon,
-so there would be no question about his going out. He was to go to
-Jensen, or Vernal, and there await us, keeping our films until we
-arrived. We knew they were in good hands. It was with some difficulty
-that we found our way back to our camp. The trail was difficult and it
-was pitch dark. My boat had been taken down to where Emery left the
-_Edith_ when the horses were driven across, and this extra distance
-was added to our walk.
-
-We were laggard the next morning, and in no hurry to resume our work.
-We rearranged our loads in the boats; with one less man and
-considerable less baggage as well, they were lighter by far. Our
-chances looked much more favourable for an easier passage. Not only
-were these things in our favour, but in addition we felt that we had
-served our apprenticeship at navigation in rapid water, and we were
-just as capable of meeting the rapids to follow as if we had years of
-experience to our record. On summing up we found that the river had
-dropped 1000 feet since leaving Green River, Wyoming, and that 5000
-feet remained, to put us on a level with the ocean. Our difficulties
-would depend, of course, on how this fall was distributed. Most of the
-fall behind was found in Lodore and Red canyons. It was doubtful
-indeed if any section would have a more rapid fall than Lodore Canyon.
-
-There is a certain verse of wisdom which says that "Pride goeth before
-a fall," but perhaps it was just as well for us if we were a little
-bit elated by our past achievements as long as we had to go through
-with the balance of our self-imposed task. Confidence, in a proper
-degree, is a great help when real difficulties have to be surmounted.
-We were full of confidence that day when we pulled away about noon
-into Whirlpool Canyon, Whirlpool Canyon being next on the list. The
-camp we were about to leave was directly opposite Lodore Canyon, where
-it ran against the upended cliff. The gorgeous colours were the same
-as those on the opposite side, and, to a certain degree, were also
-found in Whirlpool Canyon.
-
-Our two and a half hours' dash through the fourteen miles of rapid
-water in Whirlpool Canyon put us in a joyful frame of mind. Rapid
-after rapid was left behind us without a pause in our rowing, with
-only a hasty survey standing on the deck of the boats before going
-over. Others that were free from rocks were rowed in bow first, the
-big waves breaking over our boats and ourselves. We bailed while
-drifting in the quiet stretches, then got ready for the next rapids.
-Two large rapids only were looked over from the shore and these were
-run in the same manner. We could hardly believe it was true when we
-emerged from the mountain so quickly into a little flat park or valley
-sheltered in the hills. This was Island or Rainbow Park, the latter
-name being suggested by the brilliant colouring of the rocks, in the
-mountains to our left. Perhaps the form of the rocks themselves helped
-a little, for here was one end of the rainbow of rock which began on
-the other side of the mountains. Jagged-edged canyons looking almost
-as if their sides had been rent asunder came out of these mountains.
-There was very little dark red here except away on top, 2300 feet
-above, where a covering of pines made a soft background for
-light-cream and gorgeous yellow-coloured pinnacles, or rocky walls of
-pink and purple and delicate shades of various hues. Large cottonwoods
-appeared again along the river banks, in brilliant autumn colours,
-adding to the beauties of the scene. Back from the river, to the west,
-stretched the level park, well covered with bunch-grass on which some
-cattle grazed, an occasional small prickly pear cactus, and the ever
-present, pungent sage. Verdure-covered islands dotted the course of
-the stream, which was quiet and sluggish, doubling back and forth like
-a serpent over many a useless mile. Nine miles of rowing brought us
-back to a point about three miles from the mouth of Whirlpool Canyon;
-where the river again enters the mountain, deliberately choosing this
-course to one, unobstructed for several miles, to the right.
-
-The next gorge was Split Mountain Canyon, so named because the stream
-divided the ridge length-wise, from one end to the other. It was
-short, only nine miles long, with a depth of 2700 feet in the centre
-of the canyon. Three miles of the nine were put behind us before we
-camped that evening. These were run in the same manner as the rapids
-of Whirlpool, scarcely pausing to look them over, but these rapids
-were bigger, much bigger. One we thought was just formed or at least
-increased in size by a great slide of rock that had fallen since the
-recent rains. We just escaped trouble in this rapid, both boats going
-over a large rock with a great cresting wave below, and followed by a
-very rough rapid. Emery was standing on top of a fifteen-foot rock
-below the rapid when I went over, and for a few moments could see
-nothing of my boat, hardly believing it possible that I had come
-through without a scratch. These rapids with the high water looked
-more like rapids we had seen in the Grand Canyon, and were very unlike
-the shallow water of a week previous. We had only travelled a half
-day, but felt as if it had been a very complete day when we camped at
-the foot of a rock slide on the right, just above another big rapid.
-
-On Thursday, October 5, Camp No. 20 was left behind. The rapid below
-the camp was big, big enough for a moving picture, so we took each
-other in turns as we ran the rapid. More rapids followed, but these
-were not so large. A few sharp-pointed spires of tinted rock lifted
-above us a thousand feet or more. Framed in with the branches of the
-near-by cottonwood trees, they made a charming picture. Less than
-three hours brought us to the end of Split Mountain Canyon, and the
-last bad water we were to have for some time. Just before leaving the
-canyon, we came to some curious grottos, or alcoves, under the rock
-walls on the left shore. The river has cut into these until they
-overhang, some of them twenty-five feet or over. In one of these was a
-beaver lying on a pile of floating sticks. Although we passed quite
-close, the beaver never moved, and we did not molest it.
-
-Another shower greeted us as we emerged into the Uinta Valley as it is
-called by the Ute Indians. This valley is eighty-seven miles long. It
-did not have the fertileness of Brown's Park, being raised in bare
-rolling hills, runnelled and gullied by the elements. The water was
-quiet here, and hard rowing was necessary to make any progress. We had
-gone about seven miles when we spied a large placer dredge close to
-the river. To the uninitiated this dredge would look much like a
-dredging steamboat out of water, but digging its own channel, which is
-what it really does.
-
-Great beds of gravel lay on either side of the river and placer gold
-in large or small quantities, but usually the latter is likely to
-exist in these beds. When a dredge like the one found here is to be
-installed, an opening is made in the river's bank leading to an
-excavation which has been made, then a large flatboat is floated in
-this. The dredging machinery is on this float, as well as most of the
-machinery through which the gravel is passed accompanied by a stream
-of water; then with quicksilver and rockers of various designs, the
-gold is separated from the gravel and sand.
-
-Numerous small buildings were standing near the dredge, but the
-buildings were empty, and the dredge lay idle. We saw many fresh
-tracks of men and horses aid were welcomed by a sleek, well-fed cat,
-but found the place was deserted. All buildings were open and in one
-was a telephone. We were anxious to hear just where we were, so we
-used the telephone and explained what we wanted to know. The "Central"
-informed us that we were about nine miles from Jensen, so we returned
-to the boats and pulled with a will through a land that was no longer
-barren, but with cozy ranch houses, surrounded by rows of stately
-poplars, bending with the wind, for it was storming in earnest now.
-About six o'clock that evening we caught sight of the top of the
-Jensen bridge; then, as we neared the village, the sun broke through
-the pall of cloud and mist, and a rainbow appeared in the sky above,
-and was mirrored in the swollen stream, rainbow and replica combined
-nearly completing the wondrous arc. There was a small inn beside the
-bridge, and arrangements were made for staying there that night. We
-were told that Jim and Mrs. Chew had passed through Jensen about four
-hours before we arrived. They had left word that they would go on
-through to Vernal, fifteen miles distant from the river.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII
-
-
-
-AN INLAND EXCURSION
-
-Jensen was a small village with two stores and a post-office. A few
-scattered houses completed the village proper, but prosperous-looking
-ranches spread out on the lowland for two or three miles in all
-directions on the west side of the river. Avenues of poplar trees,
-fruit trees, and fields of alfalfa gave these ranches a different
-appearance from any others we had passed.
-
-We found some mail awaiting us at the post-office, and were soon
-busily engaged in reading the news from home. We conversed awhile with
-the few people at the hotel, then retired, but first made arrangements
-for saddle horses for the ride to Vernal.
-
-Next morning we found two spirited animals, saddled and waiting for
-us. We had some misgivings concerning these horses, but were assured
-that they were "all right." A group of grinning cowboys and ranch
-hands craning their necks from a barn, a hundred yards distant, rather
-inclined us to think that perhaps our informant might be mistaken.
-Nothing is more amusing to these men of the range than to see a man
-thrown from his horse, and a horse that is "all right" for one of them
-might be anything else to persons such as we who never rode anything
-except gentle horses, and rode those indifferently. We mounted quickly
-though, trying to appear unconcerned. The horses, much to our relief,
-behaved quite well, Emery's mount rearing back on his hind legs but
-not bucking. After that, all went smoothly.
-
-Leaving the irrigated ranches on the bottom lands, we ascended a low,
-rolling mesa, composed of gravel and clay, unwatered and unfertile,
-from which we caught occasional glimpses of the mountains and the
-gorge from which we had emerged, their brilliant colours softened and
-beautified by that swimming blue haze which belongs to this plateau
-region. Then we rode down into the beautiful Ashley Valley, watered by
-Ashley Creek, a good-sized stream even after it was used to irrigate
-all the country for miles above. The valley was several miles wide.
-The stream emptied into the river about a mile below Jensen. All parts
-of the valley were under cultivation. It is famous for its splendid
-deciduous fruits, apples, pears, peaches; splendid both in appearance
-and flavour. It excelled not only in fruits, however, but in all
-products of the field as well. "Vernal honey," which is marketed far
-and near, has a reputation for fine flavour wherever it is known. A
-thick growth of the bee-blossom or bee-weed crowded the road sides and
-hugged the fences. The fragrance of the flower can easily be noticed
-in the sweetness of the honey. The pity of it was that bushels of
-fruit lay rotting on the ground, for there were no transportation
-facilities, the nearest railroad being 90 miles distant. There were
-stock ranches too, with blooded stock in the fence-enclosed fields.
-Some of the splendid horses paced along beside us on the other side of
-the fence. We heard the rippling song of some meadow-larks this day,
-the only birds of this species we remember having seen on the Western
-plateaus.
-
-All these ranches were laid out in true Mormon style, that is, squared
-off in sections, fenced, and planted with shade-trees before being
-worked. The roads are usually wide and the streets exceptionally so.
-Except in the business streets, a large garden usually surrounds the
-home building, each family endeavouring to raise all their own
-vegetables, fruits, and poultry. They usually succeed.
-
-The shade trees about Vernal were Lombardy poplars. They attained a
-height that would give ample shade under most conditions, and too much
-when we were there, for the roads were very muddy, although they had
-dried in all other sections. Nearing Vernal, we passed Nathan
-Galloway's home, a cozy place set back some distance from the road. We
-had hoped to meet Galloway and have an opportunity of talking over his
-experiences with him, but found he was absent on a hunting trip, in
-fact was up in the mountains we had come through.
-
-On nearing the town we were greeted by a busy scene. Numerous wagons
-and horses stood in squares reserved for that purpose, or were tied to
-hitching posts in front of the many stores. Ranchers and their
-families were everywhere in evidence; there were numerous prospectors
-in their high-topped boots just returning from the mountains, and oil
-men in similar garb, muddy from head to foot. Later we learned that
-oil had recently been discovered about forty miles distant, this fact
-accounting for much of the activity.
-
-The town itself was a surprise; we found it to be very much up-to-date
-considering its isolated position. Two of the streets were paved and
-oiled and were supplied with drinking fountains. There were two
-prosperous looking banks, two well-stocked and up-to-date drug stores,
-several mercantile stores, and many others, all busy. Many of the
-buildings were of brick; all were substantial.
-
-Near a hotel we observed a group of men surrounding some one who was
-evidently keeping them interested. On approaching them we found it was
-Jimmy, giving a graphic description of some of our difficulties. His
-story was not finished, for he saw us and ran to greet us, as pleased
-to see us as we were to see him. He had little idea we would be along
-for two or three days and naturally was much surprised.
-
-On entering the hotel we were greeted by an old Grand Canyon friend, a
-civil engineer named Duff, who with a crew of men had been mapping the
-mountains near Whirlpool Canyon. You can imagine that it was a
-gratifying surprise to all concerned to find we were not altogether
-among strangers, though they were as hospitable as strangers could be.
-The hotel was a lively place that night. There was some musical talent
-among Duff's men, and Duff himself was an artist on the piano. Many of
-the young people of the town had dropped in that evening, as some one
-had passed the word that there might be an impromptu entertainment at
-the hotel. There was. Duff played and the boys sang. Jimmy was himself
-again and added his rich baritone. The town itself was not without
-musical talent, and altogether it was a restful change for us.
-
-Perhaps we should have felt even better if we had been dressed
-differently, for we wore much the same clothes as those in which we
-did our work on the river--a woollen shirt and overalls. Besides,
-neither Emery nor I had shaved since starting, and it is quite likely
-that we looked just a little uncouth. Appearances count for little
-with these people in the little-settled districts, and it is a common
-enough sight to them to see men dressed as we were. They did
-everything they could to make us feel at ease. As one person remarked,
-"The wealthiest cattle man, or the owner of the richest mine in the
-country, usually looks worse than all others after a month on the
-range or in the hills."
-
-If wealth were indicated on an inverse ratio to one's good appearance,
-we should have been very wealthy indeed. We felt as if it would take
-us a week to get rested and lost little time in getting to bed when
-the party broke up. We imagine most of the residents of Vernal were
-Mormons. It is part of their creed to give "the stranger within their
-gates" a cordial welcome. This however, was accorded to us, not only
-among the Mormons, but in every section of our journey on the Green
-and Colorado rivers.
-
-The following day was a busy one. Arrangements had been made with a
-local photographer to get the use of his dark room, and we proceeded
-to develop all plates and many of our films. These were then to be
-packed and shipped out. We were informed at the local express office,
-that it might be some time before they would go, as the recent rains
-had been very bad in Colorado and had washed out most of the bridges.
-
-Vernal had passenger transportation to the railway--a branch of the D.
-& R.G. running north into Colorado--by automobile, the route lying
-across the Green and also across the White River, a tributary to the
-Green. A steel structure had been washed away on the White River,
-making it impossible to get through to the station. The high water
-below here must have been a flood, judging from all reports. About ten
-bridges, large and small, were reported as being washed away on
-numerous branch streams leading into the Green River. Fortunately
-Vernal had another means of communication. This was a stage running
-southwest from Vernal, over 125 miles of rough road to Price,
-Utah--Price being a station on the main line of the D. & R.G.
-
-Jimmy concluded that he would take this road, in preference to the
-uncertainties of the other route, and noon that day found him on board
-the stage. He promised to write to us, and was anxious to hear of our
-success, but remarked that when he once got home he would "never leave
-San Francisco again." There was a final hand clasp, a cheer from the
-small group of men, and the stage drove away with Jimmy, a happy boy
-indeed.
-
-Our work on the developing progressed well, and with very satisfying
-results on the whole, and that evening found us with all plates packed
-ready for shipment to our home. The moving-picture film was also
-packed and shipped to be developed at once. This was quite a load off
-our minds.
-
-The following day we prepared to depart, but did not leave until the
-afternoon. Then, with promises to let them know the outcome of our
-venture, we parted from our friends and rode back to Jensen.
-
-We planned on leaving the following morning. The river had fallen one
-foot since we had landed, and we were anxious to have the benefit of
-the high water. We were told that it was six feet above the low-water
-stage of two weeks before.
-
-On Monday, October the 9th, after loading our boat with a new stock of
-provisions,--in which was included few jars of honey, and a few dozen
-of eggs, packed in sawdust,--we began what might be called the second
-stage of our journey; the 175-mile run to Blake or Green River, Utah,
-a little west of south from Jensen. Ten miles below Jensen was a ferry
-used by the auto and wagons. Here also was a ranch house, with a
-number of people in the yard. We were invited to land and did so. They
-had been informed by telephone of our coming and were looking for us;
-indeed they had even prepared dinner for us, hoping we would reach
-there in time. Not knowing all this, we had eaten our cold lunch half
-an hour before. The women were busy preserving fruits and garden
-truck, and insisted on us taking two or three jars along. This was a
-welcome change to the dried fruit, which was one of our principal
-foods. These people made the usual request--"Drop us a post card if
-you get through."
-
-The memory of these people that we met on this journey will linger
-with us as long as we live. They were always anxious to help us or
-cheer us on our way.
-
-We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at work with a team and
-scoop shovel, the method being to scoop up the gravel and sand, then
-dump it in an iron car. This was then pulled by the horses to the top
-of a derrick up a sloping track and dumped. A stream of water pumped
-up from the river mixed with the gravel, the entire mass descended a
-long zigzagging chute. We paused a few minutes only and did not
-examine the complicated process of separating the mineral from the
-gravel. This dredge had been recently installed. We camped early, half
-a mile below the dredge.
-
-Emery had been feeling poorly all this day. He blamed his
-indisposition to having eaten too many good things when in Vernal--a
-break in training, as it were. This was our excuse for a short run
-that day. I played nurse and gave him some simple remedy from the
-little supply that we carried; and, after he was in his sleeping bag,
-I filled some hot-water bags for the first time on the trip, and soon
-had him feeling quite comfortable.
-
-A hard wind came up that night, and a little rain fell. I had a busy
-half-hour keeping our camp from being blown away. The storm was of
-short duration, and all was soon quiet again. On the following morning
-Emery felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with him and I
-wondered if he would ever stop. Towards evening, after a long pull, we
-neared the reservation of the Uinta Utes, and saw a few Indians camped
-away from the river. Here, again, were the cottonwood bottoms, banked
-by the barren, gravelly hills. We had been informed that there was a
-settlement called Ouray, some distance down the river, and we were
-anxious to reach it before night. But the river was sluggish, with
-devious and twisting channels, and it was dark when we finally landed
-at the Ouray ferry.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX
-
-
-
-CANYON OF DESOLATION
-
-Ouray, Utah, consisted of a large store to supply the wants of the
-Indians and ranchers, a small hotel, and a few dwellings. The agency
-proper was located some distance up the Uinta River, which stream
-emptied into the Green, just below Ouray.
-
-Supper was taken at the hotel, after which we visited a young man in
-charge of the store, looking over his curios and listening to tales of
-his life here among these Indians. They were peaceable enough now, but
-in years gone by were a danger to be reckoned with. We slept in our
-own beds close to our boats by the river.
-
-The following morning, when we were ready to leave, a small crowd
-gathered, a few Indians among them. Most of the Indians were big, fat,
-and sleepy-looking. Apparently they enjoyed the care of the
-government. A mile below we passed several squaws and numerous
-children under some trees, while on a high mound stood a lone buck
-Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without a single movement that
-we could see. He still stood there as we passed from sight a mile
-below. It might be interesting if one could know just what was in his
-mind as he watched us.
-
-A mile below the Uinta River, which entered on the west, we passed
-another stream, the White River, entering from the east, the two
-streams adding considerable water to the Green River. We passed
-another idle dredge, also some mineral workings in tunnels, and saw
-two men camped on the shore beside them. We saw numerous Indian
-carvings on the rocks, but judged they were recent because horses
-figured in most of them. In all the open country the river was fringed
-with large cottonwood trees, alders and willow thickets. A number of
-islands followed, one of them very symmetrical in shape, with
-cottonwood trees in the centre, while around the edge ran a fringe of
-bushes looking almost like a trimmed hedge. The autumn colouring added
-to its beauty. The hedge, as we called it, was dark red, brown,
-yellow, and green; the cottonwoods were a light yellow. After we had
-passed this island, a deer, confused by our voices, jumped into the
-river fifty yards behind us, leaping and swimming as he made for the
-shore. We had no gun, but Emery had the moving-picture camera at hand,
-and turned it on the deer. The hour was late, however, and we had
-little hopes of its success as a picture. The country back from the
-river stretched in rolling, barren hills 200 or 300 feet high--a
-continuation of the Bad Lands of Utah, which lay off to the west.
-
-With the next day's travel the hills lost some of their barren
-appearance. Some cattle were seen early in the afternoon of the
-following day. We passed a cattle man working at a ferry, who had just
-taken some stock across, which other men had driven on ahead. He was
-busy, so we did not interrupt him, merely calling to him from the
-boats, drifting meanwhile with the current. Soon we saw him riding
-down the shore and waited for him to catch up. He invited us to camp
-with him that evening, remarking that he had "just killed a beef." We
-thanked him, but declined, as it was early and we had only travelled a
-short distance that day. We chatted awhile, and he told us to look out
-for rapids ahead. He was rather surprised when he learned that we had
-started at Green River, Wyoming, and had already come through a few
-rapids.
-
-"Where are you going to stop?" he then asked.
-
-On being told that our destination was Needles, California, he threw
-up his hands with an expressive gesture, then added soberly, "Well,
-boys, I sure wish you luck," and rode back to his camp.
-
-We had difficulty in making a suitable landing that evening, as the
-high water had deposited great quantities of black mud over
-everything, making it very disagreeable when we left the boats. We
-finally found a place with less mud to wade through than on most of
-the banks seen, and tied up to the roots of a tree.
-
-While lying in our beds that night looking at the starlit sky--such a
-sky as is found only on these high plateaus--we discovered a comet
-directly above us. An astronomer would have enjoyed our opportunities
-for observing the heavens. No doubt this comet had been heralded far
-and wide, but we doubt if any one saw it to better advantage than did
-we.
-
-Later, some coyotes, possibly in chase of a rabbit, gave vent to their
-yodeling cry, and awakened us from a sound sleep. They were in a
-little lateral canyon, which magnified and gave a weird, organ-like
-echo to their calls long after the coyotes themselves had passed from
-hearing.
-
-The nights were getting warmer as we travelled south, but not so warm
-that we were bothered with insects. The same reason accounted for the
-absence of snakes or scorpions, for no doubt there were plenty of both
-in warm weather in this dry country. When there was no wind, the
-silence of the nights was impressive, with no sound save the lapping
-of the water against the banks. Sometimes a bird in the trees above
-would start up with a twitter, then quiet down again. On occasions the
-air chambers in our boats would contract on cooling off, making a
-noise like the boom of a distant gun, every little sound being
-magnified by the utter stillness of the night.
-
-There were other times when it was not so quiet. Hundreds of birds,
-geese, ducks and mud-hens had been seen the last few days. Also there
-were occasional cranes and herons, over a thousand miles from their
-breeding place at the mouth of the Colorado. As dusk settled, we would
-see these birds abandon their feeding in the mud, and line up on the
-shore, or on an island, and go to sleep. Occasionally one of these
-birds would start up out of a sound sleep with an unearthly squawk.
-Possibly an otter had interrupted its dreams, or a fox had pounced on
-one as it slept. It may be that it was only a bad dream of these
-enemies that caused their fright, but whatever it was, that first call
-would start up the entire flock and they would circle in confusion
-like a stampeded herd of cattle, their discordant cries putting an end
-to the stillness of the night. Finally they would settle down in a new
-spot, and all would be quiet once more.
-
-We saw a few birds that were strangers to us,--water birds which we
-imagined belonged to the salt water rather than the inland streams,
-making a little excursion, perhaps, away from their accustomed haunts.
-One type we saw on two occasions, much like a gull, but smaller, pure
-white as far as we could tell, soaring in graceful flight above the
-river.
-
-Camp No. 26 was close to the beginning of a new canyon. The country
-had been changing in appearance from rather flat plains to small bare
-hills, gradually increasing in height with smooth, rounded sides, and
-going up to a point, usually of a dirty clay colour, with little
-vegetation of any kind on them. The river for miles past had swept in
-long graceful curves, the hills being close to the river on the
-outside of the curve, leaving a big flat on the inside. This flat
-gradually sloped back to hills of an equal height to those opposite.
-Then the curve would reverse, and the same conditions would be met
-with again, but on opposite sides from the previous bend. After
-passing a creek the evening before, the hills became higher, and from
-our camp we could see the first place where they came close on both
-sides to the river. We felt now that our beautiful tree-covered
-canyons were behind us and from now on we would be hemmed in by the
-great eroded canyons of the Southwest. We were sorry to leave those
-others behind, and could easily understand why Major Powell had named
-this Desolation Canyon.
-
-As the canyon deepened the cliffs were cut into fantastic shapes, as
-is usual in rocks unprotected by vegetation. There was a hard rock
-near the top in places which overhung a softer formation. This would
-erode, giving a cornice-like effect to the cliffs. Others were
-surmounted by square towers and these were capped by a border of
-little squares, making the whole look much like a castle on the Rhine.
-For half a day we found no rapids, but pulled away on a good current.
-The walls gradually grew higher and were more rugged; a few trees
-cropped out on their sides. At noon our boats were lashed together and
-lunch was eaten as we drifted. We covered about three miles in this
-way, taking in the scenery as we passed. We saw a great stone arch, or
-natural bridge, high on a stupendous cliff to our right, and wondered
-if any one had ever climbed up to it. Our lunch was no more than
-finished when the first rapid was heard ahead of us. Quickly unlashing
-our boats, we prepared for strenuous work. Friday the 13th proved to
-be a lucky day; thirteen large rapids and thirteen small ones were
-placed behind us before we camped at Rock Creek--a splashing, laughing
-mountain stream, no doubt containing trout.
-
-The following morning we found there was a little ranch house below
-us, but, though we called from our boats, no one came out. We wondered
-how any one could reach this out-of-the-way place, as a road would be
-almost an impossibility. Later we found a well-constructed trail on
-the right-hand side all the way through the canyon. We saw a great
-many cattle travelling this trail. Some were drinking at the river
-when we swept into view. Our boats filled them with alarm, and they
-scrambled for the hillsides, looking after us with frightened
-expressions as we left them to the rear.
-
-We put in a full day at running rapids, one after another, until
-fifteen large ones were passed, no count being kept of the smaller
-ones. Some of these rapids resembled dams from six to twelve feet
-high, with the water falling abruptly over a steep slope. Others were
-long and rough, with swift water in places. Above one of these we had
-landed, then found we could get a much better view from the opposite
-shore. Emery crossed and landed, I followed. We had been having heavy
-winds all day. When crossing here I was caught by a sudden gust of
-wind and carried to the head of the rapid. I heard Emery call, "Look
-out for the big rock!" then over I went. The wind and water together
-had turned my boat sideways, and try as I would I could not get it
-turned around. I saw the rock Emery referred to straight ahead of me.
-It was about fifteen feet square and about fourteen feet from the
-shore, with a powerful current shooting between the rock and the
-shore. It seemed as if I must strike the rock broadside, and I ceased
-my struggle, but held out an oar with both hands, hoping to break the
-blow. But it never came. The water struck this rock with great force,
-then rebounded, and actually kept me from even touching the rock with
-the oar, but it caught the boat and shot it through the narrow
-channel, bow first, as neatly as it could possibly be done, then,
-turned the boat around again as I scrambled to regain my hold on both
-oars. No other rocks threatened however, and besides filling the
-cockpit with water, no damage was done.
-
-Emery had no desire to follow my passage and crossed back to the other
-side. Shooting over the upper end of the rapid, his boat ran up on a
-rounded rock, the stern sticking high in the air; it paused a moment,
-the current slowly turning it around as if on a pivot, and the boat
-slid off; then down he came lurching and plunging, but with no more
-difficulty. Many times in such places as these we saw the advantage of
-our flat-bottomed boats over one with a keel, for these would surely
-be upset when running up on such a rock.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X
-
-
-
-HOSPITABLE RANCHMEN
-
-The appearance of Desolation Canyon had changed entirely in the lower
-end. Instead of a straight canyon without a break, we were surrounded
-by mountain peaks nearly 2500 feet high, with many side canyon between
-them and with little level parks at the end of the canyons beside the
-river. The tops were pine-covered; cedars clung to the rocky slopes.
-Some of these peaks were not unlike the formations of the Grand
-Canyon, as seen from the inner plateau, and the red colouring was once
-more found in the rocks.
-
-These peaks were gradually dropping down in height; and at one open
-section, with alfalfa and hay fields on gently sloping hillsides, we
-found a small ranch, the buildings being set back from the river. We
-concluded to call and found three men, the rancher and two young
-cowboys, at work in a blacksmith shop. Emery had forgotten to remove
-his life-preserver, and the men looked at him with some astonishment,
-as he was still soaking wet from the splashing waves of the last
-rapid.
-
-When I joined him he was explaining that no one had been drowned, and
-that we were merely making an excursion down the river. Mr. McPherson,
-the rancher, we learned, owned all the cattle seen up the river. The
-little cabin at our last camp was a sort of headquarters for his
-cowboys. The cattle were just being driven from the mountains before
-the snows came, and were to be wintered here in the canyons. Some of
-these cattle were much above the usual grade of range cattle, being
-thoroughbreds, although most of them ran loose on the range. This
-ranch had recently lost a valuable bull which had been killed by a
-bear up in the mountains--not unlike similar conflicts in more
-civilized sections of the country. McPherson camped on this bear's
-trail for several days and nights before he finally hung his pelt on a
-tree. He was a large cinnamon-coloured grizzly. Four other bears had
-been killed this same year, in these mountains.
-
-McPherson's home had burned down a short time before our visit, and
-his family had removed to Green River, Utah. A number of tents were
-erected, neatly boarded up, and we were informed that one of these was
-reserved for company, so we need not think of going any farther that
-day. These men, while absolutely fearless in the saddle, over these
-rough mountain trails, had "no use for the river" they told us; in
-fact, we found this was the usual attitude of the cattle men wherever
-we met them. McPherson's respect for the river was not without reason,
-as his father, with two others, had been drowned while making a
-crossing in a light boat near this point, some years before. Some
-accident occurred, possibly the breaking of a rowlock, and they were
-carried into a rapid. McPherson's men found it necessary to cross
-their cattle back and forth, but always took the wise precaution to
-have on some life-preservers. The cork preservers hung in the
-blacksmith shop, where they could easily be reached at a moment's
-notice.
-
-Desolation Canyon, with a slight breaking down of the walls for a
-short distance only, gave place to Gray Canyon below the McPherson
-Ranch. A good sized mountain stream, part of which irrigated the ranch
-above, found its way through this division. We had been told that more
-rapids lay ahead of us in Gray Canyon, but they were not so numerous
-in our next day's travel. What we did find were usually large, but we
-ran them all without difficulty. About noon we met five men in a boat,
-rowing up the stream in a long, still stretch. They told us they were
-working on a dam, a mile or two below. They followed us down to see us
-make the passage through the rapid which lay above their camp. The
-rapid was long and rocky, having a seventeen-foot fall in a half mile.
-We picked our channel by standing up in the boat before entering the
-rapid and were soon at the bottom with no worse mishap than bumping a
-rock or two rather lightly. We had bailed out and were tying our
-boats, when the men came panting down the hill up which they had
-climbed to see us make this plunge. A number of men were at work here,
-but this being Sunday, most of them had gone to Green River, Utah,
-twenty-one miles distant.
-
-Among the little crowd who came down to see us resume our rowing was a
-lady and a little girl who lived in a rock building, near the other
-buildings erected for the working-men. Emery showed the child a
-picture of his four-year-old daughter, Edith, with her mother--a
-picture he always carried in a note-book. Then he had her get in the
-boat with him, and we made a photograph of them. They were very good
-friends before we left.
-
-In a few hours we emerged from the low-walled canyon into a level
-country. A large butte, perhaps 700 feet high, stood out by itself, a
-mile from the main cliffs. This was Gunnison Butte, an old landmark
-near the Gunnison trail. We were anxious to reach Blake or Green
-River, Utah, not many miles below, that evening; but we failed to make
-it. There were several rapids, some of them quite large, and we had
-run them all when we came to a low dam that obstructed our passage,
-While looking it over, seeing how best to make a portage, a young man
-whom we had just seen remarked: "Well, boys, you had better tie up and
-I will help you in the morning."
-
-It was 5.30 then, and we were still six miles from Green River, so we
-took his advice and camped. On seeing our sleeping bags, tightly
-strapped and making rather small roll, he remarked: "Well, you fellows
-are not Mormons; I can tell by the size of your beds!"
-
-Our new friend gave the name of Wolverton. There was another man named
-Wilson who owned a ranch just below the dam. Both of these men were
-much interested in our experiences. Wolverton had considerable
-knowledge of the river and of boats; very little persuasion would have
-been necessary to have had him for a companion on the balance of our
-journey. But we had made up our minds to make it alone, now, as it
-looked feasible. Both Wilson and Wolverton knew the country below
-Green River, Utah, having made surveys through much of the surrounding
-territory. Wolverton said we must surely see his father, who lived
-down the river and who was an enthusiast on motor boats. A few
-minutes' work the next morning sufficed to get our boats over the dam.
-The dam was constructed of loose rock and piles, chinked with brush
-and covered with sloping planks,--just a small dam to raise the water
-for irrigation purposes. Much of the water ran through the canal; in
-places the planks were dry, in others some water ran over. The boats,
-being unloaded were pulled up on these planks, then slid into the
-water below. Wilson had a large water wheel for irrigation purposes,
-the first of several such wheels which we were to see this day. These
-wheels, twenty feet or more in height,--with slender metal buckets
-each holding gallons of water, fastened at intervals on either
-side,--were placed in a swift current, anchored on the shore to stout
-piles, or erected over mill-races cut in the banks. There they
-revolved, the buckets filling and emptying automatically, the water
-running off in troughs above the level of the river back to the
-fertile soil. Some of these wheels had ingenious floating arrangements
-whereby they accommodated themselves to the different stages of a
-rising or falling river. We took a few pictures of Wilson's place
-before leaving. He informed us that he had telephoned to certain
-people in Green River who would help us in various ways. Two hours'
-rowing, past many pretty little ranches, brought us to the railroad
-bridge, a grateful sight to us. A pumping plant stood beside the
-bridge under charge of Captain Yokey, one of Wilson's friends. Yokey
-owned a large motor boat, which was tied up to the shore. Our boats
-were left in his charge while we went up to the town, a mile distant.
-Another of Wilson's friends met us, and secured a dark room for us so
-that we could do a little developing and we prepared for work on the
-following day.
-
-That night a newspaper reporter hunted us out, anxious for a story. We
-gave him what we had, making light of our previous difficulties, which
-were exciting enough at times; but owing to the comparatively small
-size of the stream, we seldom thought our lives were in any great
-danger. The papers made the most of these things, and the stories that
-came out had little semblance to our original statements. We have
-since learned that no matter how much one minimizes such things, they
-are seldom published as reported.
-
-We put in a busy day unpacking new films and plates developing all
-films from the smaller cameras and sending these home. A new stock of
-provisions had to be purchased, enough for one month at least, for
-there was no chance of securing supplies until we reached our canyon
-home, about 425 miles below.
-
-We had a valuable addition to our cargo in two metal boxes that had
-been shipped here, as it was not possible to get them before leaving
-Wyoming. These cases or trunks were sent from England, and were
-water-tight, if not waterproof, there being a slight difference. Well
-constructed, with rubber gaskets and heavy clamps, every possible
-precaution had been taken, it seemed, to exclude the water and still
-render them easy of access. They were about thirty inches long,
-fifteen wide, and twelve high, just the thing for our photographic
-material. Up to this time everything had to be kept under the deck
-when in bad water. These boxes were placed in the open section in
-front of us, and were thoroughly fastened to the ribs to prevent loss,
-ready to be opened or closed in a moment, quite a convenience when
-pictures had to be taken hurriedly.
-
-The following day we went over the boats, caulking few leaks. The
-bottoms of the boats were considerably the worse for wear, owing to
-our difficulties in the first canyons. We got some thin oak strips and
-nailed them on the bottom to help protect them, when portaging.
-Sliding the boats on the scouring sand and rough-surfaced rock was
-hard on the half-inch boards on the bottom of the boats. This work was
-all completed that day, and everything was ready for the next plunge.
-
-In passing the station, we noticed the elevation above sea-level was
-placed at 4085 feet, and remembered that Green River, Wyoming, was
-6080 feet, showing that our descent in the past 425 miles had been
-close to 2000 feet. We had not found it necessary to line or portage
-any rapids since leaving Lodore Canyon; we were hopeful that our good
-luck would continue.
-
-Nothing was to be feared from what remained of the Green River, 120
-miles or more, for motor boats made the journey to its junction with
-the Grand, and we were told even ascended the Grand for some distance.
-Below this junction was the Colorado River, a different stream from
-the one we were still to navigate.
-
-Before leaving, we ate a final hearty breakfast at the boarding-house
-where we had been taking our meals. A number of young men, clerks in
-some of the business houses here, were among the boarders. The
-landlady a whole-souled German woman and an excellent cook, was
-greatly worried over their small appetites, thinking it was a
-reflection on her table. She remarked that she hoped we had good
-appetites, and I am sure she had no complaint to make so far as we
-were concerned. We had never stinted ourselves when on the river, but
-the change and the rest seemed to give us an abnormal appetite that
-could not be satisfied, and we would simply quit eating because we
-were ashamed to eat more. Less than half an hour after one of these
-big meals, I was surprised to see my brother in a restaurant with a
-sheepish grin on his face, and with a good-sized lunch before him.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI
-
-
-
-WONDERS OF EROSION
-
-_Thursday, October the 19th_. We embarked again with two of our
-new-found friends on board as passengers for a short ride, their
-intention being to hunt as they walked back. They left us at a ranch
-beside the San Rafael River, a small stream entering from the west.
-They left some mail with us to be delivered to Mr. Wolverton, whose
-son we had met above. About 20 miles below Green River we reached his
-home. Judging by a number of boats--both motor and row boats--tied to
-his landing, Mr. Wolverton was an enthusiastic river-man. After
-glancing over his mail, he asked how we had come and was interested
-when he learned that we were making a boating trip. He was decidedly
-interested when he saw the boats and learned that we were going to our
-home in the Grand Canyon. His first impression was that we were merely
-making a little pleasure trip on the quiet water.
-
-Going carefully over the boats, he remarked that they met with his
-approval with one exception. They seemed to be a little bit short for
-the heavy rapids of the Colorado, he thought. He agreed that our
-experience in the upper rapids had been good training, but said there
-was no comparison in the rapids. We would have a river ten times as
-great as in Lodore to contend with; and in numerous places, for short
-distances, the descent was as abrupt as anything we had seen on the
-Green. Wolverton was personally acquainted with a number of the men
-who had made the river trip, and, with the one exception of Major
-Powell's expeditions, had met all the parties who had successfully
-navigated its waters. This not only included Galloway's and Stone's
-respective expeditions, which had made the entire trip, but included
-two other expeditions which began at Green River, Utah, and had gone
-through the canyons of the Colorado.[4] These were the Brown-Stanton
-expedition, which made a railroad survey through the canyons of the
-Colorado; and another commonly known as the Russell-Monnette
-expedition, two of the party making the complete trip, arriving at
-Needles after a voyage filled with adventure and many narrow escapes.
-Mr. Wolverton remarked that every one knew of those who had navigated
-the entire series of canyons, but that few people knew of those who
-had been unsuccessful. He knew of seven parties that had failed to get
-through Cataract Canyon's forty-one miles of rapids, with their boats,
-most of them never being heard of again.
-
-These unsuccessful parties were often miners or prospectors who wished
-to get into the comparatively flat country which began about fifty
-miles below the Junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. Here lay
-Glen Canyon, with 150 miles of quiet water. Nothing need be feared in
-this, or in the 120 miles of good boating from Green River, Utah, to
-the junction. Between these two points, however, lay Cataract Canyon,
-beginning at the junction of the two rivers. Judging by its unsavory
-record, Cataract Canyon was something to be feared.
-
-Among these parties who had made short trips on the river was one
-composed of two men. Phil Foote was a gambler, stage robber, and bad
-man in general. He had broken out of jail in Salt Lake City and,
-accompanied by another of similar character, stole a boat at Green
-River, Utah, and proceeded down the river. Soon after entering
-Cataract Canyon, they lost their boat and provisions. Finding a tent
-which had been washed down the river, they tore it into strips and
-constructed a raft out driftwood, tying the logs together with the
-strips of canvas. Days of hardship followed, and starvation stared
-them in the face; until finally Foote's partner gave up, said he would
-drown himself. With an oath Foote drew his revolver, saying he had
-enough of such cowardice and would save him the trouble. His companion
-then begged for his life, saying he would stick to the end, and they
-finally got through to the Hite ranch, which lay a short distance
-below. They were taken care of here, and terminated their voyage a
-short distance beyond, going out over land. Foote was afterwards shot
-and killed while holding up a stage in Nevada.
-
-The Hite ranch also proved to be a place of refuge for others, the
-sole survivors of two other parties who were wrecked, one person
-escaping on each occasion. Hite's ranch, and Lee's Ferry, 140 miles
-below Hite, had mail service. We had left instructions at the
-post-office to forward our mail to one or the other of these points.
-These were also the only places on our 425-mile run to Bright Angel
-Trail where we could expect to see any people, so we were informed. We
-were about to descend into what is, possibly, the least inhabited
-portion of the United States of America.
-
-A party of civil engineers working here, joined us that evening at
-Wolverton's home. A young man in the party asked us if we would
-consent to carry a letter through with us and mail it at our
-destination. He thought it would be an interesting souvenir for the
-person to whom it was addressed. We agreed to do our best, but would
-not guarantee delivery. The next morning two letters were given us to
-mail, and were accepted with this one reservation. Before leaving Mr.
-Wolverton showed us his motor boat with much pardonable pride. On this
-boat he sometimes took small parties down to the beginning of the
-Colorado River, and up the Grand, a round trip of three hundred miles
-or more. The boat had never been taken down the Colorado for the
-simple reason that the rapids began almost immediately below the
-junction.
-
-Wolverton, while he had never been through the rapids in a boat, had
-followed the river on foot for several miles and was thoroughly
-familiar with their nature. On parting he remarked,
-
-"Well, boys, you are going to tackle a mighty hard proposition, but
-I'm sure you can make it if you are only careful. But look out and go
-easy."
-
-Wolverton was no novice, speaking from much experience in bad water,
-and we were greatly impressed by what he had to say.
-
-Five uneventful days were spent in Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons,
-through which the Green peacefully completed its rather violent
-descent. In the upper end we usually found rough water in the canyons
-and quiet water in the open sections. Here at least were two canyons,
-varying from 300 feet at their beginning to 1300 in depth, both
-without a rapid. The first of these was Labyrinth Canyon, so named
-from its elaborately winding course as well as its wonderful intricate
-system of dry, lateral canyons, and its reproduction in rock of
-architectural forms, castles, arches, and grottos; even animals and
-people were represented in every varying form.
-
-Our Sunday camp was beside what might be called a serpentine curve or
-series of loops in the river. This was at the centre of what is known
-as the Double Bow Knot, three rounded loops, very symmetrical in form,
-with an almost circular formation of flat-topped rock, a mile or more
-in diameter in the centre of each loop. A narrow neck of rock connects
-these formations to the main mesa, all being on the same level, about
-700 feet above the river. The upper half of the rock walls was sheer;
-below was a steep boulder-covered slope. The centre formation is the
-largest and most perfect, being nearly two miles in diameter and
-almost round; so much so, that a very few minutes are necessary to
-climb over the narrow neck which connects this formation to the mesa.
-It took 45 minutes of hard rowing on a good current to take us around
-this one loop. The neck is being rapidly eroded, two hundred feet
-having disappeared from the top, and at some distant day will
-doubtless disappear entirely, making a short cut for the river, and
-will leave a rounded island of rock standing seven hundred feet above
-the river. A bird's-eye view of the three loops would compare well in
-shape to the little mechanical contrivance known as the "eye" in the
-combination of "hook and eye." All women and many men will get a clear
-idea the shape of the Double Bow Knot from this comparison.
-
-We recorded an interesting experiment with the thermometer at this
-camp, showing a great variety of temperatures, unbelievable almost to
-one who knows nothing of conditions in these semi-arid plateaus. A
-little ice had formed the night before. Under a clear sky the next day
-at noon, our thermometer recorded 54 degrees in the shade, but ran up
-to 102 degrees in the sun. At the same time the water in the river was
-52 degrees Far. The effect of being deluged in ice-cold waves, then
-running into deep sunless canyons with a cold wind sweeping down from
-the snow on top, can be easier imagined than described. This is what
-we could expect to meet later.
-
-The colouring of the rocks varied greatly in many localities, a light
-red predominating. In some places the red rock was capped by a gray,
-flint-like limestone; in others this had disappeared, but underneath
-the red were regular strata of various-coloured rocks, pink, brown,
-light yellow, even blue and green being found in two or three
-sections.
-
-The forms of erosion were as varied as the rock itself, each
-different-coloured rock stratum presenting a different surface. In one
-place the surface was broken into rounded forms like the backs of a
-herd of elephants. In others we saw reproductions of images, carved by
-the drifting sands--a Diana, with uplifted arm, as large as the
-Goddess of Liberty; a Billiken on a throne with a hundred worshippers
-bowed around. Covered with nature-made ruins and magnificent rock
-structures, as this section is, it is not entirely without utility. It
-is a grazing country. Great numbers of contented cattle, white-faced,
-with red and white, or black and white patches of colour on their
-well-filled hides, were found in the open spaces between the
-sheer-walled cliffs. Dusty, well-beaten trails led down through these
-wide canyons, trails which undoubtedly gained the top of the level,
-rocky plateau a few miles back from the river. As is usual in a cattle
-country at the end of the summer season, the bunch-grass, close to the
-water supply--which in this case happened to the river--was nibbled
-close to the roots. The cattle only came here to drink, then travelled
-many miles, no doubt, to the better grazing on the upper plateaus. The
-sage, always gray, was grayer still, with dust raised by many passing
-herds. There was a band of range horses too, those splendid wild-eyed
-animals with kingly bearing, and wind-blown tails and manes, lean like
-a race-horse, strong-muscled and tough-sinewed, pawing and neighing,
-half defiant and half afraid of the sight of men, the only thing alive
-to which they pay tribute.
-
-It is a never ending source of wonder, to those unacquainted with the
-semi-arid country, how these animals can exist in a land which, to
-them, seems utterly destitute and barren. To many such, a meadow
-carpeted with blue grass or timothy is the only pasture on which
-grazing horses or grazing cattle can exist; the dried-out looking
-tufts of bunch-grass, scattered here and there or sheltered at the
-roots of the sage, mean nothing; the grama-grass hidden in the
-grease-wood is unnoticed or mistaken for a weed.
-
-But if the land was bare of verdure, the rock saved it from being
-monotonous. Varied in colour, the red rock predominated--blood-red at
-mid-day, orange-tinted at sunset, with gauze-like purple shadows, and
-with the delicate blue outlines always found in the Western distances;
-such a land could never be called uninteresting.
-
-The banks of the stream, here in the open, were always green. From an
-elevation they appeared like two emerald bands through a land of red,
-bordering a stream the tint of the aged pottery found along its
-shores. We were continually finding new trees and strange shrubs.
-Beside the cottonwoods and the willows there was an occasional
-wild-cherry tree; in the shrubs were the service-berry, and the
-squaw-berry, with sticky, acid-tasting fruit. The cacti were small,
-and excepting the prickly pear were confined nearly altogether to a
-small "pin-cushion" cactus, growing a little larger as we travelled
-south. And always in the mornings when out of the deep canyons the
-moist, pungent odour of the sage greeted our nostrils. It is
-inseparable from the West. There is no stuffy germ-laden air there,
-out in the sage; one is glad to live, simply to breathe it in and
-exhale and breathe again.
-
-In Stillwater Canyon the walls ran up to 1300 feet in height, a narrow
-canyon, with precipitous sides. Occasionally we could see great
-columns of rock standing on top of the mesa. Late one evening we saw
-some small cliff dwellings several hundred feet above the river, and a
-few crude ladders leaning against the cliff below the dwellings. A
-suitable camp could not be made here, or we would have stopped to
-examine them. The shores were slippery with mud and quicksands, and
-there was no fire-wood in sight. From here to the end of the canyons
-we would have to depend almost entirely on the drift-piles for
-fire-wood.
-
-A landing was finally made where a section of a cliff had toppled from
-above, affording a solid footing leading up to the higher bank. We
-judged from our maps that we were within a very few miles of the
-Colorado River. Here some footprints and signs of an old boat landing,
-apparently about a week old, were seen in the sand. This surprised us
-somewhat, as we had heard of no one coming down ahead of us.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII
-
-
-
-COULD WE SUCCEED?
-
-An hour or two at the oars the next morning sufficed to bring us to
-the junction of the Green and the Grand rivers. We tied up our boats,
-and prepared to climb out on top, as we had a desire to see the view
-from above. A mile back on the Green we had noticed a sort of canyon
-or slope breaking down on the west side, affording a chance to reach
-the top. Loading ourselves with a light lunch, a full canteen, and our
-smaller cameras, we returned to this point and proceeded to climb out.
-Powell's second expedition had climbed out at this same place;
-Wolverton had also mentioned the fact that he had been out; so we were
-quite sure of a successful attempt before we made the climb.
-
-The walk close to the river, over rocks and along narrow ledges, was
-hard work; the climb out was even more so. The contour maps which we
-carried credited these walls with 1300 feet height. If we had any
-doubt concerning the accuracy of this, it disappeared before we
-finally reached the top. What we saw, however, was worth all the
-discomfort we had undergone. Close the top, three branches of dry,
-rock-bottomed gullies carved from a gritty, homogeneous sandstone,
-spread out from the slope we had been climbing. These were less
-precipitous. Taking the extreme left-hand gully, we found the climb to
-the top much easier. At the very end we found an irregular hole a few
-feet in diameter not a cave, but an opening left between some immense
-rocks, touching at the top, seemingly rolled together.
-
-Gazing down through this opening, we were amazed to find that we were
-directly above the Colorado itself. It was so confusing at first that
-we had to climb to the very top to see which river it was, I
-contending that it was the Green, until satisfied that I was mistaken.
-The view from the top was overwhelming, and words can hardly describe
-what we saw, or how we were affected by it.
-
-We found ourselves on top of an irregular plateau of solid rock, with
-no earth or vegetation save a few little bushes and some very small
-cedars in cracks in the rocks. Branching canyons, three or four
-hundred feet in depth, and great fissures ran down in this rock at
-intervals. Some were dark and crooked, and the bottom could not be
-seen. Between these cracks, the rock rounded like elephants backs
-sloping steeply on either side. Some could be crossed, some could not.
-Others resembled a "maze," the puzzle being how to get from one point
-to another a few away. The rock was a sandstone and presented a rough
-surface affording a good hold, so there was little danger of slipping.
-We usually sat down and "inched" way to the edge of the cracks,
-jumping across to little ledges when possible, always helping each
-other.
-
-The rock at the very edge of the main canyon overhung, in places 75 to
-100 feet, and the great mass of gigantic boulders--sections of
-shattered cliffs--on the steep slope near the river gave evidence of a
-continual breaking away of these immense rocks.
-
-To the north, across the canyon up which we had climbed, were a great
-number of smooth formations, from one hundred to four hundred feet
-high, rounded on top in domes, reminding one of Bagdad and tales from
-the Arabian Nights. "The Land of Standing Rocks," the Utes call it.
-The rock on which we stood was light gray or nearly white; the river
-walls at the base for a thousand feet above the river were dark red or
-chocolate-brown; while the tops of the formations above this level
-were a beautiful light red tint.
-
-But there were other wonders. On the south side of the Colorado's
-gorge, miles away, were great spires, pointing heavenward, singly and
-in groups, looking like a city of churches. Beyond the spires were the
-Blue Mountains, to the east the hazy LaSalle range, and nearest of all
-on the west just north of the Colorado lay the snow-covered peaks of
-the Henry Mountains. Directly below us was the Colorado River, muddy,
-swirllng, and forbidding. A mile away boomed a rapid, beyond that was
-another, then the river was lost to view.
-
-Standing on the brink of all this desolation, it is small wonder if we
-recalled the accounts of the disasters which had overtaken so many
-others in the canyon below us. Many who had escaped the water had
-climbed out on to this death trap, as it had proven to be for them,
-some to perish of thirst and starvation, a few to stagger into the
-ranch below the canyon, a week or more after they had escaped from the
-water. Small wonder that some of these had lost their reason. We could
-only conjecture at the fate of the party whose wrecked boat had been
-found by the Stone expedition, a few miles below this place, with
-their tracks still fresh in the sand. No trace of them was ever found.
-
-For the first time it began to dawn on us that we might have tackled a
-job beyond our power to complete. Most of the parties which had safely
-completed the trip were composed of several men, adding much to the
-safety of the expedition, as a whole. Others had boats much lighter
-than ours, a great help in many respects. Speaking for myself, I was
-just a little faint-hearted, and not a little overawed as we prepared
-to return to the boats.
-
-While returning, we saw evidences of ancient Indians--some broken
-arrow-heads, and pottery also, and a small cliff ruin under a shelving
-rock.
-
-What could an Indian find here to interest him! We had found neither
-bird, nor rabbit; not even a lizard in the Land of Standing Rocks.
-Perhaps they were sun worshippers, and wanted an unobstructed view of
-the eastern sky. That at least could be had, in unrivalled grandeur,
-here above the Rio Colorado.
-
-The shadows were beginning to lengthen when we finally reached our
-boats at the junction. Camp was made under a large weeping willow
-tree, the only tree of its kind we remembered having seen on the
-journey.
-
-While Emery prepared a hasty meal I made a few arrangements for
-embarking on the Colorado River the next morning. We were prepared to
-bid farewell to the Green River--the stream that had served us so
-well. In spite of our trials, even in the upper canyons, we had found
-much enjoyment in our passage through its strange and beautiful
-surroundings.
-
-From a scenic point of view the canyons of the Green River, with their
-wonderful rock formations and stupendous gorges, are second only to
-those of the Colorado itself. It is strange they are so little known,
-when one considers the comparative ease with which these canyons on
-the lower end can be reached. Some day perhaps, surfeited
-globe-trotters, after having tired of commonplace scenery and foreign
-lands, will learn what a wonderful region this is, here on the lower
-end of the Green River.
-
-Then no doubt, Wolverton, or others with similar outfits, will find a
-steady stream of sight-seers anxious to take the motor boat ride down
-to this point, and up to Moab, Utah, a little Mormon town on the Grand
-River. A short ride by automobile from Moab to the D. & R.C. railway
-would complete a most wonderful journey; then the transcontinental
-journey could be resumed.
-
-So I mused, as I contrived an arrangement of iron hooks and oak sticks
-to hold on a hatch cover, from which all the thumb screws had been
-lost. More than likely my dream of a line of sight-seeing motor boats
-will be long deferred; or they may even meet the fate of Brown's and
-Stanton's plans for a railroad down these gorges.
-
-As a reminder of the fate which overtakes so many of our feeble plans,
-we found a record of Stanton's survey on a fallen boulder, an
-inscription reading "A 81 + 50. Sta. D.C.C. & P.R.R.," the
-abbreviations standing for Denver, Colorado Canyons, and Pacific
-Railroad. It is possible that the hands that chiselled the inscription
-belonged to one of the three men who were afterwards drowned in Marble
-Canyon.
-
-Emery--being very practical--interrupted my revery and plans for
-future sight-seers by announcing supper. The meal was limited in
-variety, but generous in quantity, and consisted of a dried-beef stew,
-fried potatoes and cocoa. A satisfied interior soon dispelled all our
-previous apprehensiveness. We decided not to run our rapids before we
-came to them.
-
-The water still gave indications of being higher than low-water mark,
-although it was falling fast on the Green River. Each morning, for
-three days previous to our arrival at the junction, we would find the
-water about six inches lower than the stage of the evening before.
-Strange to say, we gained on the water with each day's rowing, until
-we had almost overtaken the stage of water we had lost during the
-night. More than likely we would have all the water we needed under
-the new conditions which were before us.
-
-Beginning with the Colorado River, we made our journals much more
-complete in some ways, giving all the large rapids a number and
-describing many of them in detail. This was done, not only for our own
-satisfaction, but for the purpose of comparison with others who had
-gone through, for many of these rapids have histories.
-
-It was often a question, when on the Green River, where to draw the
-line when counting a rapid; this was less difficult when on the
-Colorado. While the descent was about the same as in some of the
-rapids above, the increased volume of water made them look and act
-decidedly different. We drew the line, when counting a rapid, at a
-descent having a decided agitation of the water, hidden rocks, or
-swift descent and with an eddy or whirlpool below. Major Powell
-considered that many of these drops in the next canyon were above the
-ordinary rapid, hence the name, Cataract Canyon.
-
-At one of the camps below Green River, Utah boat had been christened
-the _Defiance_, by painting the name on the bow. After leaving the
-Green we referred to the boats by their respective names, being in the
-_Edith_, I in the _Defiance_.
-
-
-[Illustration: THE JUNCTION OF THE TWO RIVERS. THE GRAND RIVER IS ON
-THE RIGHT. NOTE BOATS.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIII
-
-
-
-A COMPANION VOYAGER
-
-THURSDAY morning, October the 26th, found Emery feeling very poorly,
-but insisting on going ahead with our day's work, so Camp No. 34 was
-soon behind us. We were embarked on a new stream, flowing
-west-southwest, with a body of water ten times the size of that which
-we had found in the upper canyons of the Green. Our sixteen-foot boats
-looked quite small when compared with the united currents of the Green
-and the Grand rivers. The Colorado River must have been about 350 feet
-wide here just below the junction, with a three-mile current, and
-possibly twenty-five feet deep, although this is only a guess. The
-Grand River appeared to be the higher of the two streams, and had a
-decidedly red colour, as though a recent storm was being carried down
-its gorges; while the colour of the Green was more of a coffee
-colour--coffee with a little cream in it.
-
-A fourth of a mile below the junction the two currents began to mix,
-with a great ado about it, with small whirlpools and swift eddies, and
-sudden outbursts from beneath as though a strangled current was
-struggling to escape from the weight which overpowered it. The boats
-were twisted this way and that, and hard rowing was necessary to carry
-us down to the steadied current, and to the first rapid, which we
-could hear when yet far above it.
-
-Soon we were running rapids again, and getting a lot of sport out of
-it. There were some rocks, but there was water enough so that these
-could be avoided. If one channel did not suit us, we took another, and
-although we were drenched in every rapid, and the cockpit was half
-filled each time, it was not cold enough to cause us any great
-discomfort, and we bailed out at the end of each rapid, then hurried
-on to tackle the next. Each of these rapids was from a fourth to a
-third of a mile in length. The average was at least one big rapid to
-the mile. When No. 5 was reached we paused a little longer, and looked
-it over more carefully than we had the others. It had a short, quick
-descent, then a long line of white-topped waves, with a big whirlpool
-on the right. There were numerous rocks which would take careful work
-to avoid. The waves were big,--big enough for a motion picture,--so
-Emery remained on shore with both the motion-picture camera and the
-8X10 plate camera in position, ready to take the picture, while I ran
-my boat.
-
-At the head of this rapid we saw footprints in the sand, but not made
-with the same shoe as that which we had noticed above the junction. We
-had also seen signs of a camp, and some fishes' heads above this
-point, and what we took to be a dog's track along the shore.
-
-At the head of the next rapid we saw them again, but on opposite side
-of the river, and could see where boat had been pulled up on the sand.
-This next rapid was almost as bad as the one above it, but with a
-longer descent, instead of one abrupt drop. The following rapid was so
-close that we continued along the shore to look it over at the same
-time, saving a stop between the two rapids. The shores were strewn
-with a litter of gigantic boulders--fallen sections of the overhanging
-cliffs. We found more of this in Cataract Canyon than in any of the
-canyons above. This was partly responsible for the violence of the
-rapids, although the descent of the river would make rough water even
-if there were no boulders. Working back along the shore, we were
-suddenly electrified into quick action by seeing the _Edith_ come
-floating down the river, close to the shore and almost on the rapid.
-Emery was a short distance ahead and ran for the _Defiance_; I caught
-up a long pole and got on a projecting rock, hoping I might steer her
-in. She passed me, and was soon in the midst of the rapid before Emery
-had launched the boat. Three gigantic boulders extended above the
-water about fifty feet from shore, with a very crooked channel
-between. Down toward these boulders came the _Edith_, plunging like a
-thing possessed. How it was done I could never tell, but she passed
-through the crooked channel without once touching, and continued over
-the rapid. Meanwhile Emery had run the other side and had gained on
-the _Edith_, but only caught her when close to the next rapid; so he
-turned her loose and came to the shore for me.
-
-Emery had not been feeling his best and I advised him to remain on
-shore while I took the boat. As we made the change we again observed
-the boat, bounding through the next rapid, whirling on the tops of the
-waves as though in the hands of a superhuman juggler. I managed to
-overtake her in a whirlpool below the rapid, and came to shore for her
-captain. He was nearly exhausted with his efforts; still he insisted
-on continuing. A few miles below we saw some ducks, and shot at them
-with a revolver. But the ducks flew disdainfully away, and landed in
-the pool below.
-
-By 4.30 P.M. we were twelve miles below the junction, a very good
-day's run considering the kind of water we were travelling on, and the
-amount of time we spent on the shore. We had just run our twelfth
-rapid, and were turning the boats around, when we saw a man back from
-the shore working over a pile of boxes which he had covered with a
-piece of canvas. A boat was tied to the water's edge. We called to
-him, and he answered, but did not seem nearly as much interested in
-seeing companion travellers as we were, and proceeded with his work.
-We landed, and, to save time, introduced ourselves, as there seemed to
-be a certain aloofness in his manner. He gave the name of Smith--with
-some hesitation, we thought.
-
-Smith was about medium size, but looked tough and wiry; he had a sandy
-complexion, with light hair and mustache. He had lost one eye, the
-other was that light gray colour that is usually associated with
-indomitable nerve. He had a shrewd, rather humorous expression, and
-gave one the impression of being very capable. Dressed in a neat
-whipcord suit, wearing light shoes and a carefully tied tie, recently
-shaved--a luxury we had denied ourselves, all this time--he was
-certainly an interesting character to meet in this out-of-the-way
-place. We should judge he was a little over forty years old; but
-whether prospector, trapper, or explorer it was hard to say. Some
-coyote skins, drying on a rock, would give one the impression that he
-was the second, with a touch of the latter thrown in. These coyotes
-were responsible for the tracks we had seen, and had mistaken for dog
-tracks, but of all the canyons we had seen he was in the last place
-where we would expect to find a trapper. The coyotes evidently reached
-the river gorge through side canyons on the left, where we had seen
-signs of ancient trails. Apart from that there was no sign of animal
-life. With the last of the wooded canyons, the signs of beaver had
-disappeared. There were a few otter tracks, but they are wily fellows,
-and are seldom trapped. While there are laws against the trapping of
-beaver, they seldom prevent the trappers from taking them when they
-get the chance; they are only a little more wary of strangers; the
-thought occurred to us that this trapper may have secured some beaver
-in the open sections above, and mistrusted us for this reason.
-
-It was too late to go any farther that evening, so we camped a hundred
-yards below him, close to where our boats were pulled out. At this
-place there was a long, wide flat in the canyon, with plenty of
-driftwood, so we saw no reason why we should quarrel with our
-neighbour. Smith accepted our invitation to supper, stating that he
-had just eaten before we arrived, but enjoyed some pineapple which we
-had kept for some special occasion, and which was served for dessert.
-
-Over the table we became better acquainted, and, after learning what
-we were doing, he recounted his experiences. He told us he had left
-Green River, Utah, a month before, and had been trapping as he came
-along. He knew there was a canyon, and some rapids below, but had no
-idea they were so bad, and thought they were about ended. No one had
-warned him, for he had told no one what he intended doing. He had
-bought an old water-logged boat that had been built by Galloway, and
-seeing the uselessness of trying to run the rapids with it, worked it
-down along the shores by holding it with a light chain. Once he had
-been pulled into the river, twice the boat had been upset, and he was
-just about dried out from the last spill when we arrived. He had heard
-us shooting at the ducks, so rather expected company--this in brief
-was his amazing story.
-
-We were surprised when we examined the boat closely. It had been well
-made, but was so old and rotten that it seemed ready to fall to
-pieces. In places, the nail heads had pulled through the boards. It
-was entirely open on top--a great risk in such water. His boxes were
-tied in to prevent loss. These boxes were now piled on the shore, with
-a large canvas thrown over them. This canvas, fastened at the top and
-sloping to the ground, served him for a tent; his bed was underneath.
-A pair of high-topped boots, placed bottom up over two sticks, stuck
-in the sand beside the camp-fire, explained the different tracks we
-had seen above.
-
-Smith evidently was not much alarmed over his situation. About the
-only thing that seemed to bother him was the fact that his smoking
-tobacco had been wet several times. That evening we got out our
-guide-book--Dellenbaugh's "A Canyon Voyage"--and tried to give him an
-idea of what was ahead. The walls ahead grew higher, and closer
-together; sometimes there was a shore on one side, sometimes on the
-other, at one or two places there was no shore on either side, and the
-rapids continued to get worse,--so we gathered from Dellenbaugh's
-experience. Above this point there were several places where one could
-climb out,--we had even seen signs of ancient trails in two side
-canyons,--below here few such places existed.
-
-Smith listened to all this attentively, then smiled and said "I guess
-there will be some way through." After a short visit he returned to
-his camp. We noticed that he slept on his gun,--to keep it dry, no
-doubt, for it looked like rain.
-
-Morning found us very sorry that we had not erected our tent, for it
-rained nearly all night, but when once in our beds it was a question
-which was preferable; to get out in the rain and put up our tent, or
-remain in our comfortable beds. We remained where we were. As we
-prepared to leave, we offered Smith a chance to accompany us through
-Cataract Canyon, telling him that we would help him with his boat
-until the quiet water of Glen Canyon was reached. He declined the
-opportunity, saying that he would rather travel slowly and do what
-trapping he could. He welcomed a chance to take a ride on the
-_Defiance_, however. We took him over two small rapids, and gave him
-an insight into our method of avoiding the dangers. He was very
-enthusiastic about it. On reaching the next rapid we all concluded it
-would be very unwise to carry any passengers, for it was violent
-water, so he got out on the shore.
-
-Smith had once seen some moving pictures of Japanese shooting rapids,
-but he said they were nothing compared to these, remarking that a
-bronco could hardly buck any harder. The next rapid was just as bad,
-Rapid No. 14 for Cataract Canyon, and Smith helped us secure a motion
-picture. Then he prepared to return to his camp. Just before leaving
-he explained rather apologetically, that ranchers, or others, were
-usually very unfriendly to a stranger coming into their section of the
-country. He had heard us shooting at the ducks and he imagined we
-belonged in some of the side canyons or on the top. This explained his
-puzzling attitude at our first meeting. If he had any beaver skins in
-his pack this would make him even more suspicious of strangers. We
-wished him nothing but the best of luck, and were good friends when we
-parted. His decision to make the trip alone, poorly equipped as he
-was, seemed like suicide to us. He promised to write to us if he got
-out, and with a final wave of the hand we left him on the shore.
-
-The rapid just passed was possibly the scene of the disaster
-discovered by the Stone expedition. They found a clumsy boat close to
-the shore, jammed in a mass of rocks, smashed and abandoned. There
-were tracks of three people in the sand, one track being a boy's. A
-coat was left on the shore. The tracks disappeared up a box canyon.
-Mr. Stone corresponded with the only settlements in all that region,
-few in number, and far distant; but nothing was ever heard of them,
-Two other parties have left Green River, Utah, within a year of this
-find and disappeared in like manner. This seemed to be the usual
-result of these attempts. In nearly every case they have started in
-boats that are entirely unfitted for rough water, and, seemingly
-without any knowledge of the real danger ahead, try to follow where
-others, properly equipped, have gone through.
-
-What a day of excitement that was! We always thought we needed a
-certain amount of thrills to make life sufficiently interesting for
-us. In a few hours' time, in the central portion of Cataract Canyon,
-we experienced nearly enough thrills to last us a lifetime. In one or
-two of the upper canyons we thought we were running rapids. Now we
-were learning what rapids really were. No sooner were we through one
-than another presented itself. At each of them we climbed along the
-boulder-strewn shores--the lower slopes growing steeper, the walls
-above towering higher--clear to the end of the rapid. Looking upstream
-we could pick out the submerged rocks hidden in the muddy water, and
-looking like an innocent wave from above. Twice we had picked out
-channels in sharp drops, after carefully observing their actions and
-deciding they were free from obstructions, when suddenly the waves
-would part for an instant and disclose a hidden rock--in one case as
-sharp as a hound's tooth--sure disaster if we ever struck it. As soon
-as we had decided on a channel we would lose no time in getting back
-to our boats and running it for we could feel our courage oozing from
-our finger tips with each second's delay. Time and again we got
-through just by a scratch. Success bred confidence; I distinctly
-remember feeling that water alone would not upset the boat; that it
-would take a collision with a rock to do it. And each time we got
-through. Twice I almost had reason to reverse my impression of the
-power of water. First the stern rose up in front of me, as if squaring
-off at the tops of the cliffs, then descended, until it seemed to be
-trying to plumb the depths of the river. The waves, rolling over me,
-almost knocked me out of the boat, I lost my hold on the oars and
-grabbed the sides of the boat; then, regaining the oars, I finished
-the run by pulling with the bow headed downstream, for the boat had
-"swapped ends" in the interval, and was heavy with about three barrels
-of water in the cockpit. I bailed out with a grocery box, kept under
-the seat for that purpose. It had been growing quite cold, and Emery's
-indisposition--or what was really acute indigestion--had weakened him
-for the past two days, but he pluckily declined to stop. I was soaked
-with my last immersion and chilled with the wind, so concluded there
-was no use having him go through the same experience and I ran his
-boat while he made a picture. We were both ready to camp then, but
-there was no suitable place and we had to push on to the next rapid.
-On looking it over we almost gave up our intention of running it. It
-was about a fourth of a mile long; a mass of submerged rocks extended
-entirely across the river; the entire rapid seemed impossible. We
-finally concluded it might be run by shooting up, stern first, on a
-sloping rock near the shore, then return as the current recoiled and
-ran back, dividing on either side of the rock. The only clear channel
-was one about twelve feet wide, between this rock and the shore. A
-projecting shore above prevented a direct entrance to this channel.
-
-We threw logs in and watched their action. In each case they paused
-when within five or six feet of the top of the slope, then returned
-with the current, whirled back to the side and shot through close to
-the shore. We planned to go through as close together as possible.
-Emery was ready first, I held back in a protecting pool, waiting for
-him to get out of the way. He got his position, facing stern
-downstream, gave the slightest shove forward, and the released boat
-whizzed down for fifty feet and ran up on the rock. She paused a
-moment, as the water prepared to return. He gave two quick pulls,
-shooting back again, slightly to the right, until he struck the narrow
-channel, then reversed his course and went through stern first exactly
-as we had planned it. The square stern, buoyed up by the air-chamber,
-lifted the boat out of the resulting wave as he struck the bottom of
-the descent. This much of the rapid had only taken a few seconds.
-
-I followed at once, but was not so fortunate. The _Defiance_ was
-carried to the left side, where some water dropped over the side of
-the rock, instead of reversing. I pulled frantically, seeing visions,
-meanwhile, of the boat and myself being toppled off the side of the
-rock, into the boulders and waves below. My rowing had no effect
-whatever, but the boat was grabbed by the returning wave and shot, as
-if from a catapult, back and around to the right, through the sloping
-narrow channel,--my returning course describing a half circle. Instead
-of rising, the pointed bow cut down into the waves until the water was
-on my shoulders. Emery turned his head for an instant to see what
-success I was having, and his boat was thrown on to a rock close to
-the shore. I passed him and landed, just before going into the next
-rapid. I then went back and helped him off the rock, and he continued
-his course over the leaping waves. He broke a rowlock before he
-landed, and had to use the substitute we had hung beside it.
-
-We found a good spot for a camp just above the next rapid. Our tent
-was stretched in front of a large boulder. A large pile of driftwood
-gave us all the fuel needed, and we soon had a big fire going and our
-wet clothes steaming on the line.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIV
-
-
-
-A PATIENT AMID THE CATARACTS
-
-An hour or so after making our camp, we began to doubt the wisdom of
-our choice of a location, for a downpour of rain threatened to send a
-stream of water under the tent. The stream was easily turned aside,
-while a door and numerous boards found in the drift pile, made a very
-good floor for the tent and lifted our sleeping bags off the wet sand.
-We had little trouble in this section to find sufficient driftwood for
-fires. The pile at this camp was enormous, and had evidently been
-gathering for years. Some of it, we could be sure, was recent, for a
-large pumpkin was found deposited in the drift pile twenty-five feet
-above the low-water stage on which we were travelling. This pumpkin,
-of course, could only have come down on the flood that had preceded
-us.
-
-What a mixture of curios some of those drift piles were, and what a
-great stretch of country they represented! The rivers, unsatisfied
-with washing away the fertile soil of the upper country, had levied a
-greedy toll on the homes along their banks, as well. Almost everything
-that would float, belonging to a home, could be found in some of them.
-There were pieces of furniture and toilet articles, children's toys
-and harness, several smashed boats had been seen, and bloated cattle
-as well. A short distance above this camp we had found two cans of
-white paint, carefully placed on top of a big rock above the
-high-water mark, by some previous voyager.[5] The boats were beginning
-to show the effect of hard usage, so we concluded to take the paint
-along. At another point, this same day, we found a corked bottle
-containing a faded note, undated, requesting the finder to write to a
-certain lady in Delta, Colorado. A note in my journal, beneath a
-record of this find, reads: "Aha! A romance at last!" Judging by the
-appearance of the note it might have been thrown in many years before.
-Delta, we knew, was on the Gunnison River, a tributary of the Grand
-River. The bottle must have travelled over two hundred miles to reach
-this spot.
-
-A letter which I sent out later brought a prompt answer, with the
-information that this bottle and four others with similar notes were
-set adrift by the writer and four of her schoolmates, nearly two years
-before. An agreement was made that the one first receiving an answer
-was to treat the others to a dinner. Our find was the second, so this
-young lady was a guest instead of the host.
-
-Emery took but little interest in our camp arrangements this evening,
-and went to bed as soon as it was possible for him to do so. He said
-little, but he was very weak, and I could tell from his drawn face
-that he was suffering, and knew that it was nothing but nervous energy
-that kept him at his work--that, and a promise which he had made to
-build a fire, within a stated time now less than two weeks away, in
-Bright Angel Creek Canyon, nearly three hundred miles below this camp,
-a signal to his wife and baby that he would be home the next day. I
-was worried about his condition and I feared a fever or pneumonia. For
-two or three days he had not been himself. It was one thing to battle
-with the river when well and strong; it would be decidedly different
-if one of us became seriously ill.
-
-For the first time in all our experiences together, where
-determination and skill seemed necessary to success, I had taken the
-lead during the past two days, feeling that my greater weight and
-strength, perhaps, would help me pull out of danger where he might
-fail. In two or three rapids I felt sure he did not have the strength
-to pull away from certain places that would smash the boats. After
-running the _Defiance_ through these rapids I suggested to him that;
-he would take a picture while I brought the _Edith_ down. He would
-stay near the _Defiance_, ready to aid in case of emergency. After
-being once through a rapid I found it quite a simple matter to run the
-second boat, and the knowledge that he would save me in case of an
-upset greatly lessened any danger that might have existed. He was too
-nervous to sleep, and asked me to take a last look at the boats before
-going to bed. They were pulled well up on the shore and securely tied,
-I found, so that it would take a flood to tear them loose. The rain,
-which had stopped for a while, began again as I rolled into the
-blankets; the fire, fed with great cottonwood logs, threw ghostly
-shadows on the cliffs which towered above us, and sputtered in the
-rain but refused to be drowned; while the roar of rapids, Nos. 22 and
-23 combined, thundered and reverberated from wall to wall, and finally
-lulled us to sleep.
-
-The rain continued all night, but the weather cleared in the morning.
-Emery felt much the same as he had the day before, so we kept the same
-camp that day. We took some pictures, and made a few test
-developments, hanging the dark-room, or tent, inside the other tent
-for want of a better place to tie to.
-
-Sunday, October the 29th, we remained at the same place, and by
-evening were both greatly benefited by the rest. On Monday morning we
-packed up again, leaving only the moving-picture camera out, and
-pictured each other, alternately, as the boats made the Plunge over
-the steep descent in rapid No. 23. Both boats disappeared from sight
-on two or three occasions in this rapid and emerged nearly filled with
-water.
-
-The section just passed is credited with the greatest descent on the
-rivers, a fall of 75 feet in 3/4 of a mile. This includes the three
-rapids: Nos. 21, 22, and 23.
-
-Proceeding on our way the canyon narrowed, going up almost sheer to a
-height of 2500 feet or over. Segregated spires, with castle-like tops,
-stood out from the upper walls. The rapids, or cataracts, compared
-well with those passed above, connected in some instances by
-swift-rushing water instead of the quiet pools which were usually
-found between the rapids. We ran ten rapids this day, but several of
-these which were counted as one were a series of two or three rapids,
-which might be one in high water. All had a shore on one side or the
-other, but caution was imperative when crossing in the swift water
-between the rapids. A mishap here meant destruction. We figured that
-we had travelled about ten miles for this day's run.
-
-The menacing walls continued to go higher with the next day's travel,
-until they reached a height of 2700 feet. The left wall was so sheer
-that it almost seemed to overhang. The little vegetation which we had
-found on the lower slope gradually disappeared as the walls grew
-steeper, but a few scattered shrubs, sage-brush, and an occasional
-juniper grew on the rocky sides, or in one or two side canyons which
-entered from the south. These side canyons had the appearance of
-running back for considerable distances, but we did not explore any of
-them and could tell very little about them from the river.
-
-After our noon lunch this day, in order to keep our minds from
-dwelling too much on the rather depressing surroundings, we proposed
-having a little sport. On two or three occasions we had made motion
-pictures from the deck of the boats as we rowed in the quiet water;
-here we proposed taking a picture from the boats as we went over the
-rapids. The two boats were fastened stern to stern, so that the rowing
-would be done from the first boat. My brother sat on the bow behind
-with the motion-picture camera in front of him, holding it down with
-his chin, his legs clinging to the sides of the boat, with his left
-hand clutching at the hatch cover, and with his right hand free to
-turn the crank. In this way we passed over two small rapids. After
-that one experience we never tried it in a large rapid. As Smith had
-said a few days before the boat bucked like a broncho, and Emery had a
-great deal of difficulty to stay with the boat, to say nothing of
-taking a picture. Once or twice he was nearly unseated but pluckily
-hung on and kept turning away at the crank when it looked as if he and
-the camera would be dumped into the river.
-
-At one point in the lower end of Cataract Canyon we saw the name and
-date A.G. Turner, '07. Below this, close to the end of the canyon,
-were some ruins of cliff dwellings, and a ladder made by white men,
-placed against the walls below the ruins.
-
-On reaching a very deep, narrow canyon entering from the south,
-locally known as Dark Canyon, we knew that we were nearing the end of
-the rapids in Cataract Canyon. Dark Canyon extends a great distance
-back into the country, heading in the mountains we had seen to the
-south, when we climbed out at the junction of the Green and the Grand.
-Pine cones and other growths entirely foreign to the growth of the
-desert region were found near its mouth. A flood had recently filled
-the bottom of this narrow canyon to a depth of several feet, but the
-water had settled down again and left a little stream of clear water
-running through the boulders. The rapid at the end of this canyon was
-one of the worst of the entire series, and had been the scene of more
-than one fatality, we had been told. It had a very difficult approach
-and swung against the right wall, then the water was turned abruptly
-to the left by a great pile of fallen boulders. The cresting waves
-looked more like breakers of the ocean than anything we had seen on
-the river.
-
-We each had a good scare as we ran this rapid. Emery was completely
-hidden from my view, he was nearly strangled and blinded by the waves
-for a few seconds while struggling in the maelstrom; the _Edith_ was
-dropped directly on top of a rock in the middle of this rapid, then
-lifted on the next wave. I also had a thrilling experience but avoided
-the rock. In the lower part of the rapid a rowlock pulled apart; and
-to prevent the boat from turning sideways in the rapid, I threw up my
-knee, holding the oar against it for a lever until I was in quieter
-water, and could get the other rowlock in position.
-
-Separated from my brother in this instance, I had an opportunity to
-see the man and water conflict, with a perspective much as it would
-have appeared to a spectator happening on the scene. I was out of the
-heat of the battle. The excitement and indifference to danger that
-comes with a hand-to-hand grapple was gone. I heard the roar of the
-rapid; a roar so often heard that we forgot it was there. I saw the
-gloom of the great gorge, and the towering, sinister shafts of rock,
-weakened with cracks, waiting for the moment that would send them
-crashing to the bottom. I saw the mad, wild water hurled at the
-curving wall. Jagged rocks, like the bared fangs of some
-dream-monster, appeared now and then in the leaping, tumbling waves.
-Then down toward the turmoil--dwarfed to nothingness by the magnitude
-of the walls--sped the tiny shell-like boat, running smoothly like a
-racing machine! There was no rowing. The oar-blades were tipped high
-to avoid loss in the first comber; then the boat was buried in foam,
-and staggered through on the other side. It was buffeted here and
-there, now covered with a ton of water, now topping a ten-foot wave.
-Like a skilled boxer--quick of eye, and ready to seize any temporary
-advantage--the oarsman shot in his oars for two quick strokes, to
-straighten the boat with the current or dodge a threatening boulder;
-then covered by lifting his oars and ducking his head as a brown flood
-rolled over him. Time and again the manoeuvre was repeated: now here
-now there. One would think the chances were about one to a hundred
-that he would get through. But by some sort of a system, undoubtedly
-aided, many times, by good luck, the man and his boat won to land.
-
-After running a small rapid, we came to another, in the centre of
-which was an island,--the last rapid in Cataract Canyon. While not as
-bad as the one at Dark Canyon it was rather difficult, and at this
-point we found no shore on either side. The south side was rendered
-impassable by great boulders, much higher than the river level, which
-were scattered through the channel. The opposite channel began much
-like the rapid at Dark Canyon, sweeping under the wall until turned by
-a bend and many fallen rocks below the end of the island, then crossed
-with a line of cresting waves to the opposite side, where it was
-joined by the other stream, and the left wall was swept clean in like
-manner. We ran it by letting our boats drop into the stream, but
-pulled away from the wall and kept close to the island, then when its
-end was reached crossed the ridge of waves and pulled for the
-right-hand shore. In such rapids as this we often found the line of
-waves in the swift-rushing centre to be several feet higher than the
-water along the shore.
-
-Then our thoughts reverted to Smith. What would he do when he came to
-this rapid? The only escape was a narrow sloping ledge on the right
-side, beginning close to the water some distance above the rapid,
-reaching a height of sixty or seventy feet above the water at the
-lower end, while a descent could be made to the river some distance
-below here. It would be possible for him to climb over this with his
-provisions, but the idea of taking his boat up there was entirely out
-of the question, and, poorly equipped as he was, an attempt to run it
-would surely end in disaster. The breaking of an oar, the loss of a
-rowlock, or the slightest knock of his rotten boat against a rock, and
-Smith's fate would be similar to those others whose bones lay buried
-in the sands.
-
-In the next four miles we had no more rapids, but had some fine
-travelling on a very swift river. It was getting dusk, but we pulled
-away, for just ahead of us was the end of Cataract Canyon. We camped
-by a large side canyon on the left named Mille Crag Bend, with a great
-number of jagged pinnacles gathered in a group at the top of the
-walls, which had dropped down to a height of about 1300 feet. We felt
-just a little proud of our achievement, and believed we had
-established a record for Cataract Canyon, having run all rapids in
-four days' travelling, and come through in safety.
-
-We had one rapid to run the next morning at the beginning of Narrow
-Canyon, the only rapid in this nine-mile long canyon. The walls here
-at the beginning were twelve or thirteen hundred feet high, and
-tapered to the end, where they rise about four hundred feet above the
-Dirty Devil River. Narrow Canyon contains the longest straight stretch
-of river which we remembered having seen. When five miles from its
-mouth we could look through and see the snow-capped peak of Mt.
-Ellsworth beyond. This peak is one of the five that composes the Henry
-Mountains, which lay to the north of the river.
-
-Three hours' rowing brought us to the end. We paused a few minutes to
-make a picture or two of the Dirty Devil River,--or the Fremont River
-as it is now recorded on the maps. This stream, flowing from the
-north, was the exact opposite of the Bright Angel Creek, that
-beautiful stream we knew so well, two hundred and fifty miles below
-this point. The Dirty Devil was muddy and alkaline, while warm springs
-containing sulphur and other minerals added to its unpalatable taste.
-After tasting it we could well understand the feeling of the Jack
-Sumner, whose remark, after a similar trial, suggested its name to
-Major Powell.
-
-A short distance below this we saw a tent, and found it occupied by an
-old-timer named Kimball. Among other things he told us that he had a
-partner, named Turner, who had made the trip through the canyons
-above, and arrived at this point in safety. This was the man whose
-name we had seen on the walls in Cataract Canyon. Less than two miles
-more brought us to the Hite ranch, and post-office. John Hite gave us
-a cordial reception. He had known of our coming from the newspapers;
-besides, he had some mail for us. We spent the balance of the day in
-writing letters, and listening to Hite's interesting experiences of
-his many years of residence in this secluded spot. Hite's home had
-been a haven for the sole survivor of two expeditions which had met
-with disaster in Cataract. In each case they were on the verge of
-starvation. Hite kept a record of all known parties who had attempted
-the passage through the canyons above. Less than half of these
-parties, excepting Galloway's several successful trips, succeeded in
-getting through Cataract Canyon without wrecking boats or losing
-lives.
-
-After passing the Fremont River the walls on the right or north side
-dropped down, leaving low, barren sandstone hills rolling away from
-the river, with a fringe of willows and shrubs beside the water, and
-with the usual sage-brush, prickly pear, cactus and bunch-grass on the
-higher ground. We had seen one broken-down log cabin, but this ranch
-was the only extensive piece of ground that was cultivated. Judging by
-the size of his stacks of alfalfa, Hite had evidently had a good
-season. The banks of the south side of the river were about two
-hundred feet high, composed of a conglomerate mass of clay and gravel.
-This spot has long been a ferry crossing, known far and wide as Dandy
-Crossing, the only outlet across the river for the towns of
-southeastern Utah, along the San Juan River. The entire 150 miles of
-Glen Canyon had once been the scene of extensive placer operations.
-The boom finally died, a few claims only proving profitable.
-
-One of these claims was held by Bert Loper, one of the three miners
-who had gone down the river in 1908. Loper never finished, as his
-boat--a steel boat, by the way--was punctured in a rapid above Dark
-Canyon but was soon repaired. His cameras and plates being lost, he
-sent from Hite out for new ones. His companions--Chas. Russell, and
-E.R. Monette--were to wait for him at Lee's Ferry, after having
-prospected through Glen Canyon. Some mistake was made about the
-delivery of the cameras and, as Hite post-office only had weekly
-communication with the railroad, a month elapsed before he finally
-secured them. Lee's Ferry had been discontinued as a post-office at
-that time, and, although he tried to get a letter in to them, it was
-never delivered. His disappointment can be imagined better than
-described, when he reached Lee's Ferry and found his companions had
-left just a few days previous. They naturally thought if he were
-coming at all he would have been there long before that, and they gave
-him up, not knowing the cause of the delay. They left a letter,
-however, saying they would only go to the Bright Angel Trail, and the
-trip could be completed together on the following year.
-
-Loper spent many hard days working his boat, with his load of
-provisions, back against the current, and located a few miles below
-the Hite ranch.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XV
-
-
-
-PLACER GOLD
-
-We passed Loper's claim after resuming our journey the next day. His
-workings were a one-man proposition and very ingenious. We found a
-tunnel in the gravel a hundred feet above the river, and some distance
-back from the river bank. A track of light rails ran from the river
-bank to these workings; the gravel and sand was loaded into a car, and
-hauled or pushed to the bank, then dumped into a chute, which sent it
-down to the river's edge.
-
-Loper was not at his work however, neither did we find him at his
-ranch, a mile down the river. He had a neat little place, with fruit
-trees and a garden, a horse or two, and some poultry. After resuming
-our rowing, when about a mile down the river, some one called to us
-from the shore, and Loper himself came running down to meet us. John
-Hite had requested us to stop and see his brother, Cass Hite, who
-owned a ranch and placer working nearly opposite where Loper had
-halted us; so Loper crossed with us, as he was anxious to know of our
-passage through the canyons.
-
-We found, in Cass Hite, an interesting "old-timer," one who had
-followed the crowd of miners and pioneers, in the West, since the
-discovery of gold on the coast. He was the discoverer of the White
-Canyon Natural Bridges, of Southern Utah, located between this point
-and the San Juan River, and had been the first to open the ferry at
-Dandy Crossings. Hite had prospected Navajo Mountain, southwest of
-this point, in the early sixties, about the time of the Navajos'
-trouble with the United States army, under the leadership of Kit
-Carson, who dislodged them from their strongholds in the mountains
-after many others had failed. Hite's life was saved on more than one
-occasion by warnings from a friendly chief, or head man of the Western
-Navajos, known as Hoskaninni, who regarded him as a brother, and
-bestowed on him the name, Hosteen pes'laki, meaning "Silver man." He
-is still known by this name, and refers to his pretty ranch as Tick a
-Bo, a Ute word for "friendly." Hite proudly quoted a poem written by
-Cy Warman about the theme of the Indian's regard for his white friend.
-Warman had followed the crowd in to this spot at the time of the boom,
-looking for local colour--human local colour, not the glitter in the
-sands. It was at John Hite's home where Warman had composed the one
-time popular song, "Sweet Marie." It would be safe to say that he
-brought his inspiration with him, for this was decidedly a man's
-country. We were told that it had only been visited by one woman in
-the past twelve years. Hite insisted on our remaining until the
-following morning, and we concluded that the rest would do us good. He
-loaded us up with watermelons, and with raisins, which he was curing
-at that time. We spent a pleasant afternoon under a shaded arbour,
-listening to his reminiscences, and munching at the raisins.
-
-That evening Loper told us his story of their canyon expedition. He
-felt a little bitter about some newspaper reports that had been
-published concerning this expedition, these reports giving the
-impression that his nerve had failed him, and that for this reason he
-had not continued on the journey. We mollified his feelings somewhat,
-when we told him that his companions were not responsible for these
-reports; but rather, that short telegraphic reports, sent out from the
-Grand Canyon, had been misconstrued by the papers; and that this
-accounted for the stories which had appeared. His companions had
-remained at the Grand Canyon for two days following their arrival at
-Bright Angel Trail. They gave Loper credit, to our certain knowledge,
-of being the only one of the party who knew how to handle the boats in
-rough water when they began the trip, and had stated that he ran all
-the boats through certain rapids until they caught the knack. They
-could not know of his reasons for the delay, and at that time had no
-knowledge of his arrival at Lee's Ferry, after they had gone.
-Naturally they were very much puzzled over his non-appearance.
-
-It got quite cold that night, and we were glad to have shelter of
-Hite's hospitable roof. In our trip down the river to this point we
-had seemed to keep even with the first cold weather. In all places
-where it was open, we would usually find a little ice accompanied by
-frost in the mornings, or if no ice had frozen the grass would be wet
-with dew. In the canyons there was little or no ice, and the air was
-quite dry. Naturally we preferred the canyons if we had a choice of
-camps.
-
-Loper looked as though he would like to accompany us as we pulled away
-the next morning, after having landed him on the south side of the
-stream. We, at least, had full confidence in his nerve to tackle the
-lower Colorado, after his record in Cataract Canyon. The five
-scattered peaks of the Henry Mountains were now to the north-northwest
-of us, rugged and snow-capped, supreme in their majesty above this
-desolate region.
-
-Signs of an ancient Indian race were plentiful in this section. There
-were several small cliff dwellings, walled up in ledges in the rocks,
-a hundred feet or so above a low flat which banked the river. At
-another place there were hundreds of carvings on a similar wall which
-overhung a little. Drawings of mountain-sheep were plentiful; there
-was one representing a human figure with a bow and arrow, and with a
-sheep standing on the arrow--their way of telling that he got the
-sheep, no doubt. There were masked figures engaged in a dance, not
-unlike some of the Hopi dances of to-day, as they picture them. There
-were geometrical figures, and designs of many varieties. A small rock
-building half covered with sand and the accumulations of many years
-stood at the base of the cliff; and quantities of broken pottery were
-scattered about the ruin. Farther down the river a pathway was worn
-into the sandstone where countless bare and moccasined feet had
-toiled, and climbed over the sloping wall to the mesa above. The ruins
-in this section were not extensive, like those found in the tributary
-canyons of the San Juan River, for instance, not a very great distance
-from here. Possibly this people stopped here as they travelled back
-and forth, trading with their cousins to the north; or the dwellings
-may have been built by the scattered members of the tribe, when their
-strongholds were assailed by the more warlike tribes that crowded in
-on them from all sides.
-
-What a story these cliffs could tell! What a romance they could
-narrate of various tribes, as distinct from each other as the nations
-of Europe, crowding each other; and at the last of this inoffensive
-race, coming from the far south, it may be; driven from pillar to
-post, making their last stand in this desert land; to perish of
-pestilence, or to be almost exterminated by the blood-thirsty tribes
-that surrounded them--then again, when the tide changed, and a new
-type of invader travelled from the east, pushing ever to the west,
-conquering all before them! But like the sphinx, the cliffs are silent
-and voiceless as the hillocks and sand-dunes along the Nile, that
-other desert stream, with a history no more ancient and momentous than
-this.
-
-That night we camped opposite the ruins of a dredge, sunk in the low
-water at the edge of the river. This dredge had once represented the
-outlay of a great deal of money. It is conceded by nearly all experts
-that the sands of these rivers contain gold, but it is of such a fine
-grain--what is known as flour gold--and the expense of saving it is so
-great, that it has not paid when operated on such a large scale. A few
-placers in Glen Canyon have paid individual operators, some of these
-claims being in gravel deposits from six hundred to eight hundred feet
-above the present level of the river.
-
-On the following day we again entered deep canyon; sheer for several
-hundred feet, creamy white above, with a dark red colour in the lower
-sandstone walls. That afternoon we passed a small muddy stream flowing
-from the north, in a narrow, rock-walled canyon. This was the
-Escalante River, a stream rising far to the north, named for one of
-the Spanish priests who had travelled this country, both to the north
-and the south of this point, as early as the year 1776, about the time
-when the New England colonists were in the midst of their struggle
-with the mother country.
-
-Just below the Escalante River, the canyon turned almost directly
-south, continuing in this general direction for several miles. A
-glimpse or two was had of the top of a tree-covered snow-capped peak
-directly ahead of us, or a little to the southwest. This could be none
-other than Navajo Mountain, a peak we could see from the Grand Canyon,
-and had often talked of climbing, but debated if we could spare the
-time, now that we were close to it.
-
-In all this run through Glen Canyon we had a good current, but only
-one place resembling a rapid. Here, below the Escalante, it was very
-quiet, and hard pulling was necessary to make any headway. We were
-anxious to reach the San Juan River that evening, but the days were
-growing short, and we were still many miles away when it began to grow
-dusk; so we kept a lookout for a suitable camp. The same conditions
-that had bothered us on one or two previous occasions were found here;
-slippery, muddy banks, and quicksand, together with an absence of
-firewood. We had learned before this to expect these conditions where
-the water was not swift. The slower stream had a chance to deposit its
-silt, and if the high water had been very quiet, we could expect to
-find it soft, or boggy. In the canyons containing swift water and
-rapids we seldom found mud, but found a firm sand, instead. Here in
-Glen Canyon we had plenty of mud, for the river had been falling the
-last few days. Time and again we inspected seemingly favourable
-places, only to be disappointed. The willows and dense shrubbery came
-down close to the river; the mud was black, deep, and sticky; all
-driftwood had gone out on the last flood. Meanwhile a glorious full
-moon had risen, spreading a soft, weird light over the canyon walls
-and the river; so that we now had a light much better than the dusk of
-half an hour previous, our course being almost due south. Finally,
-becoming discouraged, we decided to pull for the San Juan River,
-feeling sure that we would find a sand-bar there. It was late when we
-reached it, and instead of a sand-bar we found a delta of bottomless
-mud. We had drifted past the point where the rivers joined, before
-noticing that the stream turned directly to the west, with canyon
-walls two or three hundred feet high, and no moonlight entered there.
-Instead, it was black as a dungeon. From down in that darkness there
-came a muffled roar, reverberating against the walls, and sounding
-decidedly like a rapid. There was not a minute to lose. We pulled, and
-pulled hard--for the stream was now quite swift close to the right
-shore, and a sheer bank of earth about ten feet high made it difficult
-to land. Jumping into the mud at the edge of the water, we tied the
-boats to some bushes, then tore down the bank and climbed out on a
-dry, sandy point of land. At the end or sharp turn of the sheer wall
-we found a fair camp, with driftwood enough for that night. Emery,
-weak from his former illness and the long day's run, went to bed as
-soon as we had eaten a light supper. I looked after the cooking that
-evening, making some baking-powder bread,--otherwise known as a
-flapjack,--along with other arrangements for the next day; but I fear
-my efforts as a cook always resulted rather poorly.
-
-We had breakfast at an early hour the next morning and were ready for
-the boats at 7.15, the earliest start to our record. Our rapid of the
-night before proved to be a false alarm, being nothing more than the
-breaking of swift water as it swept the banks of rocks at the turn. It
-was quite different from what we had pictured in our minds.
-
-We had long looked forward to this day. Navajo Mountain, with bare,
-jagged sides and tree-covered dome, was located just a few miles below
-this camp. It was a sandstone mountain peak, towering 7000 feet above
-the river, the steep slope beginning some five or six miles back from
-the stream. The base on which it rested was of sandstone, rounded and
-gullied into curious forms, a warm red and orange colour
-predominating. The north side, facing the river, was steep of slope,
-covered with the fragments of crumbled cliffs and with soft
-cream-tinted pinnacles rising from its slope. The south side, we had
-reason, to believe, was tree-covered from top to bottom; the north
-side held only a few scattered cedar pinon We had often seen the hazy
-blue dome from the Grand Canyon, one hundred and twenty miles away,
-and while it was fifty miles farther by the river, we felt as if we
-were entered on the home stretch; as if we were in a country with
-which we were somewhat familiar.
-
-The Colorado and the San Juan rivers form the northern boundary of the
-Navajo Indian Reservation, comprising a tract of land as large as many
-Eastern states, extending over a hundred miles, both east and west
-from this point. Embodied in this reservation, and directly opposite
-our camp, was a small section of rugged land set aside for some Utes,
-who had friendly dealings, and who had intermarried with the Navajo.
-But if we expected to find the Navajo, or Utes on the shore, ready to
-greet us, we were doomed to disappointment.
-
-We explored a few side canyons this morning, hoping to find a spot
-where some of Major Powell's party--particularly those men who were
-afterwards killed by the Indians--had chiselled their names, which
-record we were told was to be found near the San Juan, but on which
-side we were not sure. While in one of these canyons, or what was
-really nothing more than a crooked overhanging slit in the rocks,
-containing a small stream, Emery found himself in some soft quicksand,
-plunged instantly above his knees, and sinking rapidly. He would have
-had a difficult time in getting out of this quicksand without help,
-for a smooth, rock wall was on one side, the other bank of the stream
-was sheer above him for a few feet, and there was nothing solid which
-he could reach. We had seen a great deal of quicksand before this, but
-nothing of this treacherous nature. Usually we could walk quickly over
-these sands without any danger of being held in them, or if
-caught--while lifting on a boat for instance--had no difficulty in
-getting out. When once out of this canyon we gave up our search for
-the carved record.
-
-But it was not the hope of shortening our homeward run, or the
-prospect of meeting Indians on the shores, or of finding historical
-records, even, that caused us to make this early start. It was the
-knowledge that the wonderful Rainbow Natural Bridge, recently
-discovered, and only visited by three parties of whites, lay hidden in
-one of the side canyons that ran from the north slope of Navajo
-Mountain. No one had gone into it from the river, but we were told it
-could be done. We hoped to find this bridge.
-
-The current was swift, and we travelled fast, in spite of a stiff wind
-which blew up the stream, getting a very good view of the mountain
-from the river a few miles below our camp, and another view of the
-extreme top, a short distance below this place, not over six miles
-from the San Juan. We had directions describing the canyon in which
-the bridge was located, our informant surmising that it was thirty
-miles below the San Juan. We thought it must be less than that, for
-the river was very direct at this place, and a person travelling over
-the extremely rough country which surrounded this side of the mountain
-slope would naturally have to travel much farther, so began to look
-for it about twelve miles below camp. But mile after mile went by
-without any sign of the landmarks that would tell us we were at the
-"Bridge Canyon." Then the river, which had circled the northern side
-of the peak, turned directly away from it, and we knew that we had
-missed the bridge. At no point on the trip had we met with a
-disappointment to equal that; even the loss of our moving-picture
-film, after our spill in Lodore, was small when compared with it.
-
-On looking back over the lay of the land, we felt sure that the bridge
-was at one of the two places, where we had seen the top of the
-mountain from the river. To go back against the current would take at
-least three days. Our provisions were limited in quantity and would
-not permit it; the canyon had deepened, and a second bench of sheer
-cliffs rose above the plateau, making it impossible to climb out: so
-we concluded to make the best of it, and pulled down the stream,
-trying to put as many miles as possible between ourselves and our
-great disappointment. This afternoon we passed from Utah into Arizona.
-For the remainder of the trip we would have Arizona on one side of the
-river at least. We had much the same difficulty this evening as we had
-the night before in finding a camp. Judging by the evidence along the
-shore, the high water which came down the San Juan had been a torrent,
-much greater than the flood on the Colorado and its upper tributaries.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVI
-
-
-
-A WARNING
-
-We camped that night at the Ute Ford, or the Crossing of the Fathers;
-a noted landmark of bygone days, when Escalante (in 1776) and others
-later followed the inter-tribal trails across these unfriendly lands.
-Later marauding Navajo used this trail, crossing the canyon to the
-north side, raiding the scattered Mormon settlements, bringing their
-stolen horses, and even sheep, down this canyon trail. Then they drove
-them across on a frozen river, and escaped with them to their mountain
-fastness. The Mormons finally tired of these predatory visits, and
-shut off all further loss from that source by blasting off a great
-ledge at the north end of the trail. This ruined the trail beyond all
-hope of repair, and there is no travel at present over the old Ute
-Crossing. The fording of the river on horseback was effected by
-dropping down to the river through a narrow side canyon, and crossing
-to the centre on a shoal, then following a centre shoal down quite a
-distance, and completing the crossing at a low point on the opposite
-side. This was only possible at the very lowest stage of water.
-
-The morning following our arrival here, we walked about a mile up the
-gravelly slope on the south side, to see if we could locate the pass
-by which the trail dropped down over these 3000-foot walls. The canyon
-had changed in appearance after leaving the mountain, and now we had a
-canyon; smaller, but not unlike the Grand Canyon in appearance, with
-an inner plateau, and a narrow canyon at the river, while the walls on
-top were several miles apart, and towering peaks or buttes rose from
-the plateau, reaching a height almost equal to the walls themselves.
-The upper walls were cream-tinted or white sandstone, the lower
-formation was a warm red sandstone. We could not discover the pass
-without a long walk to the base of the upper cliffs, so returned to
-the boats.
-
-About this time we heard shots, seeming to come from some point down
-the river, and on the north side. Later a dull hollow sound was heard
-like pounding on a great bass drum. We could not imagine what it was,
-but knew that it must be a great distance away. We had noticed
-instances before this, where these smooth, narrow canyon had a great
-magnifying effect on noises. In the section above the San Juan, where
-the upper walls overhung a little, a loud call would roll along for
-minutes before it finally died. A shot from a revolver sounded as if
-the cliff were falling.
-
-Our run this morning was delightful. The current was the best on which
-we had travelled. The channel swung from side to side, in great half
-circles, with most of the water thrown against the outside bank, or
-wall, with a five-or six-mile an hour current close to the wall. We
-took advantage of all this current, hugging the wall, with the stern
-almost touching, and with the bow pointed out so we would not run into
-the walls or scrape our oars. Then, when it seemed as if our necks
-were about to be permanently dislocated, from looking over one
-shoulder, the river would reverse its curve, the channel would cross
-to the other side, and we would give that side of our necks a rest.
-Once in a great while I would bump a rock, and would look around
-sheepishly, to see if my brother had seen me do it. I usually found
-him with a big grin on his face, if he happened to be ahead of me.
-
-We rowed about twenty miles down the river before we learned what had
-caused the noises heard in the morning. On rounding a turn we saw the
-strange spectacle of fifteen or twenty men at work on the
-half-constructed hull of a flat-bottomed steamboat, over sixty feet in
-length. This boat was on the bank quite a distance above the water,
-with the perpendicular walls of a crooked side canyon rising above it.
-It was a strange sight, here in this out-of-the-way corner of the
-world. Some men with heavy sledges were under the boat, driving large
-spikes into the planking. This was the noise we had heard that
-morning.
-
-The blasting, we learned later, was at some coal mines, several miles
-up this little canyon, which bore the name of Warm Creek Canyon. A
-road led down through the canyon, making it possible to haul the
-lumber for the boat, clear to the river's edge. The nearest railroad
-was close to two hundred miles from this place, quite a haul
-considering the ruggedness of the country. The material for the boat
-had been shipped from San Francisco, all cut, ready to put together.
-The vessel was to be used to carry coal down the river, to a dredge
-that had recently been installed at Lee's Ferry.
-
-The dinner gong had just sounded when we landed, and we were taken
-along with the crowd. There were some old acquaintances in this group
-of men, we found, from Flagstaff, Arizona. These men had received a
-Flagstaff paper which had published a short note we had sent from
-Green River, Utah. They had added a comment that no doubt this would
-be the last message we would have an opportunity to send out. Very
-cheering for Emery's wife, no doubt. Fortunately she shared our
-enthusiasm, and if she felt any apprehension her few letters failed to
-show it.
-
-We resumed our rowing at once after dinner, for we wished to reach
-Lee's Ferry, twenty-five miles distant, that evening. We had a good
-current, and soon left our friends behind us. We pulled with a will,
-and mile after mile was covered in record time, for our heavy boats.
-
-The walls continued to get higher as we neared our goal, going up
-sheer close to the river. We judged the greatest of these walls to be
-about eleven hundred feet high. After four hours of steady pulling we
-began to weary, for ours were no light loads to propel; but we were
-spurred to renewed effort by hearing the sounds of an engine in the
-distance. On rounding a turn we saw the end of Glen Canyon ahead of
-us, marked by a breaking down of the walls, and a chaotic mixture of
-dikes of rock, and slides of brilliantly coloured shales, broken and
-tilted in every direction. Just below this, close to a ferry, we saw
-the dredge on the right side of the river. We were quite close to the
-dredge before we were seen. Some men paused at their work to watch us
-as we neared them, one man calling to those behind him, "There come
-the brothers!"
-
-A whistle blew announcing the end of their day's labour, and of ours
-as well, as it happened. There was some cheering and waving of hats.
-One who seemed to be the foreman asked us to tie up to a float which
-served as a landing for three motor boats, and a number of skiffs. A
-loudly beaten triangle of steel announced that the evening meal was
-ready at a stone building not far from the dredge. We were soon seated
-at a long table with a lot of others as hungry as we, partaking of a
-well-cooked and substantial meal. We made arrangements to take a few
-meals here, as we wished to overhaul our outfits before resuming our
-journey.
-
-The meal ended, we inquired for the post-office, and were directed to
-a ranch building across the Paria River, a small stream which entered
-from the north, not unlike the Fremont River in size and appearance.
-Picking our way in the darkness, on boulders and planks which served
-as a crossing, we soon reached the building, set back from the river
-in the centre of the ranch. A man named Johnson, with his family, had
-charge of the ranch and post-office as well. Mail is brought by
-carrier from the south, a cross-country trip of 160 miles, through the
-Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations.
-
-Johnson informed us that an old-time friend named Dave Rust had waited
-here three or four days, hoping to see us arrive, but business matters
-had forced him to leave just the day before. We were very sorry to
-have missed him. Rust lived in the little Mormon town of Kanab, Utah,
-eighty miles north of the Grand Canyon opposite our home. In addition
-to being a cattle man and rancher, he had superintended the
-construction of a cable crossing, or tramway, over the Colorado River,
-beside the mouth of Bright Angel Creek, not many miles from our home.
-He also maintains a cozy camp at this place, for the accommodation of
-tourists and hunting parties, which he conducts up Bright Angel Creek
-and into the Kaibab Forest. It was while returning from such a hunting
-trip that we first met Rust. Many are the trips we have taken with him
-since then, Emery, with his wife and the baby, even, making the
-"crossing" and the eighty-mile horseback ride to his home in Kanab,
-while I had continued on through to Salt Lake City. Rust had been the
-first to tell us of Galloway and his boating methods; and had given us
-a practical demonstration on the river. Naturally there was no one we
-would have been more pleased to see at that place, than Rust.
-
-In our mail we found a letter from him, stating, among other things,
-that he had camped the night before on the plateau, a few hundred feet
-above a certain big rapid, well known through this section as the Soap
-Creek Rapid. This locality is credited with being the scene of the
-first fatality which overtook the Brown-Stanton expedition; Brown
-being upset and drowned in the next rapid which followed, after having
-portaged the Soap Creek Rapid. Rust wrote also that there was a shore
-along the rapid, so there would be no difficulty in making the
-portage; and concluded by saying that he had a very impressive dream
-about us that night, the second of its kind since we had started on
-our journey.
-
-We understood from this that he had certain misgivings about this
-rapid, and took his dream to be a sort of a warning. Rust should have
-known us better. With all the perversity of human nature that letter
-made me want to run that rapid if it were possible. Why run the rapid,
-and get a moving picture as it was being done. Then we could show Rust
-how well we had learned our lesson! So I thought as we returned to the
-buildings near the dredge, but said nothing of what was in my mind to
-Emery, making the mental reservation that I would see the rapid first
-and decide afterwards.
-
-The foreman of the placer mines called us into his office that
-evening, and suggested that it might be a good plan to go over our
-boats thoroughly before we left, and offered us the privilege of using
-their workshop, with all its conveniences, for any needed repairs. He
-also let us have a room in one of the buildings for our photographic
-work.
-
-This foreman mourned the loss of a friend who had recently been
-drowned at the ferry. It seemed that the floods which had preceded us,
-especially that part which came down the San Juan River, had been
-something tremendous, rising 45 feet at the ferry, where the river was
-400 feet wide; and rising much higher in the narrow portions of Glen
-Canyon. Great masses of driftwood had floated down, looking almost
-like a continuous raft. When the river had subsided somewhat, an
-attempt was made to cross with the ferry. The foreman and his friend,
-with two others, and a team of horses hitched to a wagon, were on the
-ferry. When in midstream it overturned in the swollen current. Three
-of the men escaped, the other man and the horses were drowned.
-
-A careful search had been made for the body to a point a few miles
-down the river, then the canyon closed in and they could go no
-farther. The body was never recovered. It is seldom that the Colorado
-River gives up its dead. The heavy sands collect in the clothes, and a
-body sinks much quicker than in ordinary water. Any object lodged on
-the bottom is soon covered with a sand-bar. The foreman knew this, of
-course; yet he wished us to keep a lookout for the body, which might,
-by some chance, have caught on the shore, when the water receded. This
-was as little as any one would do, and we gave him our promise to keep
-a careful watch.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVII
-
-
-
-A NIGHT OF THRILLS
-
-We declined the offer of a roof that night, preferring to sleep in the
-open here, for the evening was quite warm. We went to work the next
-morning when the whistle sounded at the dredge. Beyond caulking a few
-leaks in the boats, little was done with them. The tin receptacles
-holding our photographic plates and films were carefully coated with a
-covering of melted paraffine; for almost anything might happen, in the
-one hundred miles of rapid water that separated us from our home.
-
-Lee's Ferry was an interesting place, both for its old and its new
-associations. This had long been the home of John D. Lee, well known
-for the part he took in the Mountain Meadow Massacre, and for which he
-afterwards paid the death penalty. Here Lee had lived for many years,
-making few visits to the small settlements to the north, but on one of
-these visits he was captured. There were six or seven other buildings
-near the large stone building where we took our meals, so arranged
-that they made a short street, the upper row being built against a
-cliff of rock and shale, the other row being placed halfway between
-this row and the river. These buildings were all of rock, of which
-there was no lack, plastered with adobe, or mud. One, we were told,
-had been Lee's stronghold, it was a square building, with a few very
-small windows, and with loopholes in the sides. At the time of our
-visit it was occupied by two men; one, a young Englishman, recently
-arrived from South Africa--a remittance-man, in search of novelty--the
-other a grizzled forty-niner. Much could be written about this
-interesting group of men, and their alluring employment. There were
-some who had followed this work through all the camps of the West--to
-Colorado, to California, and to distant Alaska as well, they had
-journeyed; but it is doubtful if, in all their wanderings, they had
-seen any camp more strangely located than this, hemmed in with canyon
-walls. To us, their dredge and the steamboat up the river seemed as if
-they had been taken from the pages of some romance, or bit of fiction,
-and placed before us for our entertainment.
-
-There were other men as well, just as interesting m their way as the
-"old-timers," the sons of some of the owners of this
-proposition,--clean-cut young fellows,--working side by side with the
-veterans, as enthusiastic as if on their college campus.
-
-One feature about the dredge interested us greatly. This was a tube,
-or sucker, held suspended by a derrick above a float, and operated by
-compressed air. The tube was dropped into the sand at the bottom of
-the river, and would eat its way into it, bringing up rocks the size
-of one's fist, along with the gravel and sand. In a few hours a hole,
-ten or fifteen feet in depth and ten feet in diameter, would be
-excavated. Then the tube was raised, the float was moved, and the work
-started again. The coarse sand and gravel, carried by a stream of
-water, was returned to the river, after passing over the riffles; the
-screenings which remained passed over square metal plates--looking
-like sheets of tin--covered with quicksilver. These plates were
-cleaned with a rubber window-cleaner, and the entire residue was saved
-in a heavy metal pot, ready for the chemist.
-
-One day only was needed for our work, and by evening we were ready for
-the next plunge. We might have enjoyed a longer stay with these men,
-but stronger than this desire was our anxiety to reach our home,
-separated from us by a hundred miles of river, no extended part of the
-distance being entirely free from rapids. We had written to the Grand
-Canyon, bidding them look for our signal fire in Bright Angel Creek
-Canyon, in from seven to ten days, and planned to leave on the
-following morning. Nothing held us now except the hope that the mail,
-which was due that evening, might bring us a letter, although that was
-doubtful, for we were nearly a week ahead of our schedule as laid out
-at Green River, Utah.
-
-As we had anticipated, there was no mail for us, so we turned to
-inspect the mail carrier. He was a splendid specimen of the Navajo
-Indian,--a wrestler of note amoung his people, we were told,--large
-and muscular, and with a peculiar springy, slouchy walk that gave one
-the impression of great reserve strength. He had ridden that day from
-Tuba, an agency on their reservation, about seventy miles distant.
-This was the first sign of an Indian that we had seen in this section,
-although we had been travelling along the northern boundary of their
-reservation since leaving the mouth of the San Juan. These Indians
-have no use for the river, being children of the desert, rather than
-of the water. Beyond an occasional crossing and swimming their horses
-at easy fords, they make no attempt at its navigation, even in the
-quiet water of Glen Canyon.
-
-Some of the men showed this Indian our boats, and told him of our
-journey. He smiled, and shrugged his massive shoulders as much as to
-say, he "would believe it when he saw it." He had an opportunity to
-see us start, at least, on the following morning.
-
-Before leaving, we climbed a 300-foot mound on the left bank of the
-Paria River, directly opposite the Lee ranch. This mound is known as
-Lee's Lookout. Whether used by Lee or not, it had certainly served
-that purpose at some time. A circular wall of rock was built on top
-the mound, and commanded an excellent view of all the approaches to
-the junction of the rivers. This spot is of particular interest to the
-geologist, for a great fault, indicated by the Vermilion Cliffs, marks
-the division between Glen Canyon and Marble Canyon. This line of
-cliffs extends to the south for many miles across the Painted Desert,
-and north into Utah for even a greater distance, varying in height
-from two hundred feet at the southern end to as many thousand feet in
-some places to the north. Looking to the west, we could see that here
-was another of those sloping uplifts of rock, with the river cutting
-down, increasing the depth of the canyon with every mile.
-
-We had now descended about 2900 feet since leaving Green River City,
-Wyoming, not a very great fall for the distance travelled if an
-average is taken, but a considerable portion of the distance was on
-quiet water, as we have noted, with a fall of a foot or two to the
-mile, and with alternate sections only containing bad water. We were
-still at an elevation of 3170 feet above the sea-level, and in the 283
-miles of canyon ahead of us--Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon
-combined--the river descends 2330 feet, almost a continuous series of
-rapids from this point to the end of the Grand Canyon.
-
-After a hasty survey from our vantage point, we returned to the river
-and prepared to embark. As we left the dredge, the work was closed
-down for a few minutes, and the entire crowd of men, about forty in
-number, stood on an elevation to watch us run the first rapid. The
-Indian had crossed to the south side of the to feed his horse and
-caught a glimpse of us as we went past him. Running pell-mell down to
-his boat, he crossed the river and joined the group on the bank. About
-this time we were in the grip of the first rapid, a long splashy one,
-with no danger whatever, but large enough to keep us busy until we had
-passed from view.
-
-A few miles below this, after running a pair of small rapids, we
-reached a larger one, known as the Badger Creek Rapid, with a
-twenty-foot drop in the first 250 feet, succeeded by a hundred yards
-of violent water. Emery had a little difficulty in this rapid, when
-his boat touched a rock which turned the boat sideways in the current,
-and he was nearly overturned in the heavy waves which followed. As it
-was, we were both drenched.
-
-About the middle of the afternoon, twelve miles below Lee's Ferry, we
-reached the Soap Creek Rapid of which we had heard so much. The rapid
-had a fall of twenty-five feet, and was a quarter of a mile long. Most
-of the fall occurred in the first fifty yards. The river had narrowed
-down until it was less than two hundred feet wide at the beginning of
-the descent. Many rocks were smattered all through the upper end,
-especially at the first drop. On the very brink or edge of the first
-fall, there was a submerged rock in the centre of the channel, making
-an eight-foot fall over the rock. A violent current, deflected from
-the left shore, shot into this centre and added to the confusion.
-Twelve-foot waves from the conflicting currents, played leap-frog,
-jumping over or through each other alternately. Clearly there was no
-channel on that side. On the right or north side of the stream it
-looked more feasible, as the water shot down a sloping chute over a
-hundred feet before meeting with an obstruction. This came in the
-shape of two rocks, one about thirty feet below the other. To run the
-rapid this first rock would have to be passed before any attempt could
-be made to pull away from the second rock, which was quite close to
-the shore. Once past that there was a clear channel to the end of the
-rapid, if the centre, which contained many rocks, was avoided. Below
-the rapid was the usual whirlpool, then a smaller rapid, running under
-the left wall. This second rapid was the one that had been so fatal
-for Brown. The Soap Creek rapid in many ways was not as bad as some we
-had gone over in Cataract Canyon, but there were so many complications
-that we hesitated a long time before coming to a decision that we
-would make an attempt with one boat, depending on our good luck which
-had brought us through so many times, as much as we depended on our
-handling of the boat.
-
-It was planned that I should make the first attempt while Emery
-remained with the motion-picture camera just below the rock that we
-most feared, with the agreement that he was to get a picture of the
-upset if one occurred, then run to the lower end of the rapid with a
-rope and a life-preserver.
-
-After adjusting life-preservers I returned to my boat and was soon on
-the smooth water above the rapid, holding my boat to prevent her from
-being swept over the rock in the centre, jockeying for the proper
-position before I would allow her to be carried into the current. Once
-in, it seemed but an instant until I was past the first rock, and
-almost on top of the second. I was pulling with every ounce of
-strength, and was almost clear of the rock when the stern touched it
-gently. I had no idea the boat would overturn, but thought she would
-swing around the rock, heading bow first into the stream, as had been
-done before on several occasions. Instead of this she was thrown on
-her side with the bottom of the boat held against the rock while I
-found myself thrown out of the boat, but hanging to the gunwale. Then
-the boat swung around and instantly turned upright while I scrambled
-back into the cockpit. Looking over my shoulder, when I had things
-well in hand again, I saw my brother was still at the camera, white as
-a sheet, but turning at the crank as if our entire safety depended on
-it. After I landed the water-filled boat, however, he confessed to me
-that he had no idea whether he had caught the upset or not, as he may
-have resumed the work when he saw that I was safe.
-
-Then we went to work to find out what damage was done. First we found
-that the case, which was supposed to be waterproof, had a half-inch of
-water inside, but fortunately none of our films were wet. Some plates
-which we had just exposed and which were still in the holders were
-soaked. The cameras also had suffered. We hurriedly wiped off the
-surplus water and piled these things on the shore, then emptied the
-boat of a few barrels of water.
-
-This one experience, I suppose, should have been enough for me with
-that rapid, but I foolishly insisted on making another trial at it
-with the _Edith_, for I felt sure I could make it if I only had
-another chance, and the fact that Emery had the empty boat at the end
-of the rapid and could rescue me if an upset occurred greatly lessened
-the danger. The idea of making a portage, with the loss of nearly a
-day, did not appeal to me.
-
-Emery agreed to this reluctantly, and advised waiting until morning,
-for it was growing dusk, but with the remark "I will sleep better with
-both boats tied at the lower end of the rapid," I returned to the
-_Edith_. To make a long story short I missed my channel, and was
-carried over the rock in the centre of the stream. The _Edith_ had
-bravely mounted the first wave, and was climbing the second comber,
-standing almost on end, seemed to me, when the wave crested over the
-stern while the current shooting it from the side struck the submerged
-bow and she fell back in the water upside down. It was all done so
-quickly, I hardly knew what had occurred, but found myself in the
-water, whirling this way and that, holding to the right oar with a
-death-grip. I wondered if the strings would hold, and felt a great
-relief when the oar stopped slipping down,--as the blade reached the
-ring. It was the work of a second to climb the oar, and I found I was
-under the cockpit. Securing a firm hold on the gunwale, which had
-helped us so often, I got on the outside of the boat, thinking I might
-climb on top. About that time one of the largest waves broke over me,
-knocking me on the side of the head as if with a solid object, nearly
-tearing me from the boat. After that I kept as close to the boat as
-possible, paddling with my feet to keep them clear of rocks. Then the
-suction of the boat caught them and dragged them under, and for the
-rest of the rapid I had all I could do to hang to the boat. As the
-rapid dwindled I began to look for Emery, but was unable to see him,
-for it was now growing quite dark, but I could see a fire on shore
-that he had built. I tried to call but was strangled with the breaking
-waves; my voice was drowned in the roar of the rapid. One of the
-life-preservers was torn loose and floated ahead of me. Finally I got
-an answer, and could see that Emery had launched his boat. As he drew
-near I told him to save the life-preserver, which he did, then
-hurriedly pulled for me. I remarked with a forced laugh, to reassure
-him, "Gee, Emery, this water's cold."
-
-He failed to join in my levity, however, and said with feeling, "Thank
-the good Lord you are here!" and down in my heart I echoed his prayer
-of thanks.
-
-Somehow I had lost all desire to successfully navigate the Soap Creek
-Rapid.
-
-But our troubles were not entirely over. Emery had pulled me in after
-a futile attempt or two, with a hold sometimes used by wrestlers,
-linking his arm in mine, leaning forward, and pulling me in over his
-back I was so numbed by the cold that I could do little to help him,
-after what, I suppose, was about a quarter of an hour's struggle in
-the water; although it seemed much longer than that to me.
-
-We then caught the _Edith_ and attempted to turn her over, but before
-this could be done we were dragged into the next rapid. Emery caught
-up the oars, while I could do nothing but hold to the upturned boat,
-half filled with water, striving to drag us against the wall on the
-left side of the stream. It was no small task to handle the two boats
-in this way, but Emery made it; then, when he thought we were sure of
-a landing, the _Edith_ dragged us into the river again. Two more small
-rapids were run as we peered through the darkness for a landing.
-Finally we reached the shore over a mile below the Soap Creek Rapid.
-We were on the opposite side of the stream from that where we had
-unloaded the _Defiance_. This material would have to stay where it was
-that night.
-
-While bailing the water from the _Edith_ we noticed a peculiar odour,
-and thought for a while that it might be the body of the man who was
-drowned at the ferry, but later we found it came from a green
-cottonwood log that had become water-soaked, and was embedded in the
-sand, close to our landing. It was Emery's turn to do the greater part
-of the camp work that night, while I was content to hug the fire,
-wrapped in blankets, waiting for the coffee to boil.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVIII
-
-
-
-MARBLE HALLS AND MARBLE WALLS
-
-There was little of the spectacular in our work the next day as we
-slowly and laboriously dragged an empty boat upstream against the
-swift-running current, taking advantage of many little eddies, but
-finding much of the shore swept clean. I had ample opportunity to
-ponder on the wisdom of my attempt to save time by running the Soap
-Creek Rapid instead of making a portage, while we carried our loads
-over the immense boulders that banked the stream, down to a swift
-piece of water, past which we could not well bring the boats or while
-we developed the wet plates from the ruined plate-holders. It was with
-no little surprise that we found all the plates, except a few which
-were not uniformly wet and developed unevenly, could be saved. It took
-a day and a half to complete all this work.
-
-Marble Canyon was now beginning to narrow up with a steep,
-boulder-covered slope on either side, three or four hundred feet high;
-with a sheer wall of dark red limestone of equal height directly above
-that. There was also a plateau of red sandstone and distant walls
-topped with light-coloured rock, the same formations with which we
-were familiar in the Grand Canyon. The inner gorge had narrowed from a
-thousand feet or more down to four hundred feet, the slope at the
-river was growing steeper and gradually disappearing, and each mile of
-travel had added a hundred feet or more to the height of the walls.
-Soon after resuming our journey that afternoon, the slope disappeared
-altogether, and the sheer walls came down close to the water. There
-were few places where one could climb out, had we desired to do so.
-This hard limestone wall, which Major Powell had named the marble
-wall, had a disconcerting way of weathering very smooth and sheer,
-with a few ledges and fewer breaks.
-
-We made a short run that day, going over a few rapids, stopping an
-hour to make some pictures where an immense rock had fallen from the
-cliff above into the middle of the river bed, leaving a forty-foot
-channel on one side, and scarcely any on the other. Below this we
-found a rapid so much like the Soap Creek Rapid in appearance that a
-portage seemed advisable. It was evening when we got the _Edith_ to
-the lower end of this rapid after almost losing her, as we lined her
-down, and she was wedged under a sloping rock that overhung the rapid.
-We had two ropes, one at either end, attached to the boat in this
-case. Emery stood below the rock ready to pull her in when once past
-the rock. There was a sickening crackling of wood as the deck of the
-boat wedged under and down to the level of the water, and at Emery's
-call I released the boat, throwing the rope into the river, and
-hurried to help him. He was almost dragged into the water as the boat
-swung around fortunately striking against a sand-bank, instead of the
-many rocks that lined the shore. We were working with a stream
-different from the Green River, we found, and the _Defiance_ was taken
-from the water the next day and slowly worked, one end at a time, over
-the rocks, up to a level sand-bank, twenty-five or thirty feet above
-the river. Then we put rollers under her, and worked her down past the
-rapid. This work was little to our liking, for the boats, now pretty
-well water-soaked, weighed considerably more than their original five
-hundred pounds' weight.
-
-A few successful plunges soon brought back our former confidence, and
-we continued to run all other rapids that presented themselves. This
-afternoon we passed the first rapid we remembered having seen, where
-we could not land at its head before running it. A slightly higher
-stage of water, however, would have made many such rapids. Just below
-this point we found the body of a bighorn mountain-sheep floating in
-an eddy. It was impossible to tell just how he came to his death.
-There was no sign of any great fall that we could see. He had a
-splendid pair of horns, which we would have liked to have had at home,
-but which we did not care to amputate and carry with us.
-
-On this day's travel, we passed a number of places where the
-marble--which had suggested this canyon's name to Major
-Powell--appeared. The exposed parts were checked, or seamed, and
-apparently would have little commercial value. We passed a shallow
-cave or two this day, then found another cave or hole, running back
-about fifteen feet in the wall, so suitable for a camp that we could
-not refuse the temptation to stop, although we had made but a very
-short run this day. The high water had entered it, depositing
-successive layers of sand on the bottom, rising in steps, one above
-the other, making convenient shelves for maps and journals, pots and
-pans; while little shovelling was necessary to make the lower level of
-sand fit our sleeping bags. A number of small springs, bubbling from
-the walls near by, gave us the first clear water that we had found for
-some time, and a pile of driftwood caught in the rocks, directly in
-front of our cave, added to its desirability for a camp. Firewood was
-beginning to be the first consideration in choosing a camp, for in
-many places the high water had swept the shores clean, and spots which
-might otherwise have made splendid camps were rendered most
-undesirable for this reason.
-
-So Camp Number 47 was made in this little cave, with a violent rapid
-directly beneath us, making a din that might be anything but
-reassuring, were we not pretty well accustomed to it by this time. The
-next day, Sunday, November the 12th, was passed in the same spot. The
-air turned decidedly cold this day, a hard wind swept up the river,
-the sky above was overcast, and we had little doubt that snow was
-falling on the Kaibab Plateau, which we could not see, but which we
-knew rose to the height of 5500 feet above us, but a few miles to the
-northwest of this camp. The sheer walls directly above the river
-dropped down considerably at this point, and a break or two permitted
-us to climb up as high as we cared to go on the red sandstone wall,
-which had lost its level character, and now rose in a steep slope over
-a thousand feet above us. These walls, with no growth but the tussocks
-of bunch-grass, the prickly pear cactus, the mescal, and the yucca,
-were more destitute of growth than any we had seen, excepting the
-upper end of Desolation Canyon, even the upper walls lacking the
-growth of pinon pine and juniper which we usually associated with
-them. We were now directly below the Painted Desert, which lay to the
-left of the canyon, and no doubt a similar desert was on the
-right-hand side, in the form of a narrow plateau; but we had no means
-of knowing just how wide or narrow this was, before it raised again to
-the forest-covered Buckskin Mountains and the Kaibab Plateau.
-
-The rapid below our camp was just as bad as its roar, we found, on
-running it the next day. Most of the descent was confined to a violent
-drop at the very beginning, but there was a lot of complicated water
-in the big waves that followed. Emery was thrown forward in his boat,
-when he reached the bottom of the chute, striking his mouth, and
-bruising his hands, as he dropped his oars and caught the bulkhead. An
-extra oar was wrenched from the boat and disappeared in the white
-water, or foam that was as nearly white as muddy water ever gets. I
-nearly upset, and broke the pin of a rowlock, the released oar being
-jerked from my hand, sending me scrambling for an extra oar, when the
-boat swept into a swift whirlpool. Emery caught my oar as it whirled
-past him; the other was found a half-mile below in an eddy.
-
-Some of the rapids in the centre of Marble Canyon were not more than
-75 feet wide, with a corresponding violence of water. The whirlpools
-in the wider channels below these rapids were the strongest we had
-seen, and had a most annoying way of holding the boats just when we
-thought we had evaded them. Sometimes there would be a whirlpool on
-either side, with a sharply defined line of division in the centre,
-along which it was next to impossible to go without being caught on
-one side or the other. These whirlpools were seldom regarded as
-serious, for our boats were too wide and heavy to be readily
-overturned in them, although we saved ourselves more than one upset by
-throwing our weight to the opposite side. A small boat would have
-upset. On two occasions we were caught in small whirlpools, where a
-point of rock projected from the shore, turning upstream, splitting a
-swift current and making a very rapid and difficult whirl, where the
-boats were nearly smashed against the walls. Below all such places
-were the familiar boils, or fountains, or shoots, as they are
-variously termed. These are the lower end of the whirlpools, emerging
-often from the quiet water below a rapid with nearly as much violence
-as they disappeared in the rapids above. These would often rise when
-least expected, breaking under the boats, the swift upshoot of water
-giving them such a rap that we sometimes thought we had struck a rock.
-If one happened to be in the centre of a boil when it broke, it would
-send them sailing down the stream many times faster than the regular
-current was travelling, rowing the boat having about as little effect
-on determining its course as if it was loaded on a flat-car. The other
-boat, at times just a few feet away, might be caught in the whirlpools
-that formed at the edge of the fountains, often opening up suddenly
-under one side of the boat, causing it to dip until the water poured
-over the edge, holding it to that one spot in spite of every effort to
-row away.
-
-Then we would strike peaceful water again, a mile or perhaps, so quiet
-that a thin covering of clear water over the top of the silt-laden
-pool beneath, reflecting the tinted walls and the turquoise sky
-beneath its limpid surface. Gems of sunlight sparkled on its bosom and
-scintillated in the ripples left behind by the oars. When seated with
-our backs to the strongest light, and when glancing along the top of
-such a pool instead of into it, the mirror-like surface gave way to a
-peculiar purplish tone which seemed to cover the pool, so that one
-would forget it was roily water, and saw only the iridescent beauty of
-a mountain stream.
-
-The wonderful marble walls--better known to the miners as the blue
-limestone walls--now rose from the water's edge to a height of eight
-or nine hundred feet, the surface of its light blue-gray rock being
-stained to a dark red, or a light red as the case might be, by the
-iron from the sandstone walls above. There were a thousand feet of
-these sandstone layers, red in all its varying hues, capped by the
-four-hundred foot cross-bedded sandstone wall, breaking sheer, ranging
-in tone from a soft buff to a golden yellow, with a bloom, or glow, as
-though illuminated from within. As we proceeded, another layer could
-be seen above this, the same limestone and with the same fossils--an
-examination of the rock-slides told us--as the topmost formation at
-the Grand Canyon. This was not unlike the cross-bedded sandstone in
-colour, but lacked its warmth and richness of tint.
-
-A close, examination of the rocks revealed many colours, that figured
-but little in the grand colour scheme of the canyon as a whole--the
-detailed ornamentation of the magnificent rock structure. A fracture
-of wall would show the true colour of the rock, beneath the stain;
-lime crystals studded its surface, like gems glinting in the sunlight;
-beautifully tinted jasper, resembling the petrified wood found in
-another part of Arizona, was embedded in the marble wall,--usually at
-the point of contact with another formation,--polished by the sands of
-the turbid river.
-
-All this told us that we were coming into our own. Four of the seven
-notable divisions of rock strata found in the Grand Canyon were now
-represented in Marble Canyon, and soon the green shale, which
-underlies the blue limestone, began to crop out by the river as the
-walls grew higher and the stream cut deeper.
-
-One turn of the canyon revealed a break where Stanton hid his
-provisions in a cave--after a second fatality in which two more of
-this ill-fated expedition lost their lives--and climbed out on top.
-Afterwards he re-outfitted with heavier boats and tackled the stream
-again.
-
-Just below this break the scene changed as we made a sharp turn to the
-left. Vasey's Paradise--named by Major Powell after Dr. Geo. W. Vasey,
-botanist of the United States Department of Agriculture--was disclosed
-to view. Beautiful streams gushed from rounded holes, fifty yards
-above the river. The rock walls reminded one of an ivy-covered castle
-of old England, guarded by a moat uncrossed by any drawbridge. It was
-trellised with vines, maidenhair ferns, and water-moss making a vivid
-green background for the golden yellow and burnished copper leaves
-which still clung to some small cottonwood trees--the only trees we
-had seen in Marble Canyon.
-
-In our haste to push on, we left the brass motion-picture tripod head
-on an island, from which we pictured this lovely spot. A rapid was put
-behind us before we noticed our loss, and there was no going back
-then.
-
-Another turn revealed a Gothic arch, or grotto, carved at the bend of
-the wall by the high water, with an overhang of more than a hundred
-feet, and a height nearly as great, for the flood waters ran above the
-hundred-foot stage in this narrow walled section. Then came a gloomy,
-prison-like formation, with a "Bridge of Sighs" two hundred feet above
-a gulch, connecting the dungeon to the perpendicular wall beyond; and
-with a hundred cave-like openings in its sheer sides like small
-windows, admitting a little daylight into its dark interior. The
-sullen boom of a rapid around the turn sounded like the march of an
-army coming up the gorge, so we climbed back into our boats after a
-vain attempt to climb up to some of the caves, and advanced to meet
-our foe. This rapid--the tenth for the day--while it was clear of
-rocks, had an abrupt drop, with powerful waves which did all sorts of
-things to us and to our boats; breaking a rowlock and the four pieces
-of line which held it, and flooding us both with a ton of water. We
-went into camp a short distance below this, in a narrow box canyon
-running back a hundred yards from the river, a gloomy, cathedral-like
-interior with sheer walls rising several hundred feet on three sides
-of us, and with the top of the south wall 2500 feet above us in plain
-sight of our camp, the one camp in Marble Canyon where our sleep was
-undisturbed by the roar of a rapid. But instead of the roar of a
-rapid, a howling wind swept down from the Painted Desert above, piling
-the mingled desert sands and river sands about our beds, scattering
-our camp material over the bottom of the narrow gorge.
-
-Soon after this camp--the fourth and the last in Marble Canyon--was
-left behind us, the walls began to widen out, especially on the
-north-northwest, and by noon we had passed from the narrow, direct
-canyon, into one with slopes and plateaus breaking the sheer walls,
-the wall on the left or southeast side being much the lower of the
-two, and more nearly perpendicular, rising to a height of 3200 feet,
-while the northwest side lifted up to the Kaibab Plateau, one
-point--miles back from the river--rising 6000 feet above us.
-
-We halted at noon beside the Nancoweep Valley. A wide tributary
-heading many miles back in the plateau the right, with a ramified
-series of canyons running into it, and with great expanses of
-sage-covered flats between. Deer tracks were found on these flats,
-deer which came down from the forest of the Buckskin Mountains. This
-was the point selected by Major Powell for the construction of a trail
-when he returned from his voyage of exploration to study the geology
-of this section. The trail, although neglected for many years, is
-still used by prospectors from Kanab, Utah, who make a yearly trip
-into the canyons to do some work on a mineral ledge a few miles below
-here.
-
-What a glorious, exhilarating run we had that day! From here to the
-end of Marble Canyon the rapids were almost continuous, with few
-violent drops and seldom broken by the usual quiet pools. It was the
-finest kind of water for fast travelling, and we made the most of it.
-The only previous run we had made that could in any way compare with
-it was in Whirlpool and Split Mountain canyons, when the high water
-was on. As we travelled, occasional glimpses were had of familiar
-places on Greenland Point--that thirty-mile peninsula of the Kaibab
-Plateau extending between Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon--where we
-had gone deer-hunting, or on photographic expeditions with Rust.
-
-Another valley from the right was passed, then a peak rose before us
-close to the river, with its flat top rising to a height equal to the
-south wall. This was Chuar Butte. Once more we were in a narrow
-canyon, narrowing by this peak, but a canyon just the same. Soon we
-were below a wall we once had photographed from the mouth of the
-Little Colorado; then the stream itself came into view and we were
-soon anchored beside it. This was the beginning of the Grand Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIX
-
-
-
-SIGNALLING OUR CANYON HOME
-
-How long we had waited for this view! How many memories it
-recalled--and how different it seemed to our previous visit there!
-Then, the high water was on, and the turquoise-tinted mineral water of
-the Colorado Chiquito was backed up by the turbid flood waters of the
-Rio Colorado, forty feet or more above the present level. Now it was a
-rapid stream, throwing itself with wild abandon over the rocks and
-into the Colorado. There was the same deserted stone hut, built by a
-French prospector, many years before, and a plough that he had packed
-in over a thirty-mile trail--the most difficult one in all this rugged
-region! There was the little grass-plot where we pastured the burro,
-while we made a fifteen-mile walk up the bed of this narrow canyon!
-What a hard, hot journey it had been! A year and a half ago we sat on
-that rock, and talked of the day when we should come through here in
-boats! Even then we talked of building a raft, and of loading the
-burro on it for a spin on the flood waters. Lucky for us and for the
-burro that we didn't! We understand the temper of these waters now.
-
-Cape Desolation, a point of the Painted Desert on the west side of the
-Little Colorado, was almost directly above us, 3200 feet high. Chuar
-Butte, equally as high and with walls just as nearly perpendicular,
-extended on into the Grand Canyon on the right side, making the
-narrowest canyon of this depth that we had seen. The Navajo
-reservation terminated at the Little Colorado, although nothing but
-the maps indicated that we had passed from the land of the Red man to
-that of the White. Both were equally desolate, and equally wonderful.
-With the entrance of the new stream the canyon changes its southwest
-trend and turns directly west, and continues to hold to this general
-direction until the northwest corner of Arizona is reached.
-
-But we must be on again! Soon familiar segregated peaks in the Grand
-Canyon began to appear. There was Wotan's Throne on the right, and the
-"Copper Mine Mesa" on the left. Three or four miles below the junction
-a four-hundred foot perpendicular wall rose above us. The burro, on
-our previous visit, was almost shoved off that cliff when the pack
-caught on a rock, and was only saved by strenuous pulling on the
-neck-rope and pack harness. Soon we passed some tunnels on both sides
-of the river where the Mormon miners had tapped a copper ledge. At
-4.15 P.M. we were at the end of the Tanner Trail, the outlet of the
-Little Colorado Trail to the rim above. It had taken seven hours of
-toil to cover the same ground we now sped over in an hour and a
-quarter. Major Powell, in 1872, found here the remnant of a very small
-hut built of mesquite logs, but whether the remains of an Indian's or
-white man's shelter cannot be stated. The trail, without doubt was
-used by the Indians before the white man invaded this region.
-
-The canyon had changed again from one which was very narrow to one
-much more complex, greater, and grander. The walls on top were many
-miles apart; Comanche Point, to our left, was over 4000 feet above us;
-Desert View, Moran Point, and other points on the south rim were even
-higher. On the right we could see an arch near Cape Final on Greenland
-Point, over 5000 feet up, that we had photographed, from the top, a
-few years before. Pagoda-shaped temples--the formation so typical of
-the Grand Canyon--clustered on all sides. The upper walls were similar
-in tint to those in Marble Canyon, but here at the river was a new
-formation; the algonkian, composed of thousands of brilliantly
-coloured bands of rock, standing at an angle--the one irregularity to
-the uniform layers of rock--a remnant of thousands of feet of rock
-which once covered this region, then was planed away before the other
-deposits were placed. All about us, close to the river, was a deep,
-soft sand formed by the disintegration of the rocks above, as
-brilliantly coloured as the rocks from which they came. What had been
-a very narrow stream above here spread out over a thousand feet wide,
-ran with a good current, and seemed to be anything but a shallow
-stream at that.
-
-We had travelled far that day but still sped on,--with a few rapids
-which did not retard, but rather helped us on our way, and with a good
-current between these rapids,--only stopping to camp when a
-three-hundred foot wall rose sheer from the river's edge, bringing to
-an end our basin-like river bottom, where one could walk out on either
-side. It was not necessary to hunt for driftwood this evening, for a
-thicket of mesquite--the best of all wood for a camp-fire--grew out of
-the sand-dunes, and some half-covered dead logs were unearthed from
-the drifted sand, and soon reduced to glowing coals.
-
-Meanwhile, we were enjoying one of those remarkable Arizona desert
-sunsets. Ominous clouds had been gathering in the afternoon, rising
-from the southwest, drifting across the canyon, and piling up against
-the north wall. A few fleecy clouds in the west partially obscured the
-sun until it neared the horizon, then a shaft of sunlight broke
-through once more, telegraphing its approach long before it reached
-us, the rays being visibly hurled through space like a javelin, or a
-lightning bolt, striking peak after peak so that one almost imagined
-they would hear the thunder roll. A yellow flame covered the western
-sky, to be succeeded in a few minutes by a crimson glow. The sharply
-defined colours of the different layers of rock had merged and
-softened, as the sun dropped from sight; purple shadows crept into the
-cavernous depths, while shafts of gold shot to the very tiptop of the
-peaks, or threw their shadows like silhouettes on the wall beyond.
-Then the scene shifted again, and it was all blood-red, reflecting
-from the sky and staining the rocks below, so that distant wall and
-sky merged, with little to show where the one ended and the other
-began. That beautiful haze, which tints, but does not obscure,
-enshrouded the temples and spires, changing from heliotrope to
-lavender, from lavender to deepest purple; there was a departing flare
-of flame like the collapse of a burning building; a few clouds in the
-zenith, torn by the winds so that they resembled the craters of the
-moon, were tinted for an instant around the crater's rims; the clouds
-faded to a dove-like gray; they darkened; the gray disappeared; the
-purple crept from the canyon into the arched dome overhead; the day
-was ended, twilight passed, and darkness settled over all.
-
-We sat silently by the fire for a few minutes, then rose and resumed
-our evening's work. This camp was at a point that could be seen from
-the Grand View hotel, fourteen miles from our home. We talked of
-building a signal fire on the promontory above the camp, knowing that
-the news would be telephoned to home if the fire was seen. But we gave
-up the plan. Although less than twenty miles from Bright Angel Trail,
-we were not safely through by any means. Two boats had been wrecked or
-lost in different rapids less than six miles from this camp. The
-forty-foot fall in the Hance or Red Canyon Rapid was three miles below
-us; the Sockdologer, the Grapevine, and other rapids nearly as large
-followed those; we might be no more fortunate than the others, and a
-delay after once giving a signal would cause more anxiety than no
-signal at all we thought, and the fire was not built.
-
-Particular attention was paid to the loading of the boats the next
-morning. The moving-picture film was tucked in the toes of our
-sleeping bags, and the protecting bags were carefully laced. We were
-not going to take any chances in this next plunge--the much-talked-of
-entrance to the granite gorge. A half-hour's run and a dash through
-one violent rapid landed us at the end of the Hance Trail--unused for
-tourist travel for several years--with a few torn and tattered tents
-back in the side canyon down which the trail wound its way. We half
-hoped that we would find some of the prospectors who make this section
-their winter home either at the Tanner or the Hance Trail, but there
-was no sign of recent visitors at either place, unless it was the
-numerous burro tracks in the sand. These tracks were doubtless made by
-some of the many wild burros that roam all the lower plateaus in the
-upper end of the Grand Canyon.
-
-After a careful inspection of the Hance Rapid we were glad the signal
-fire was not built. It was a nasty rapid. While reading over our notes
-one evening we were amused to find that we had catalogued different
-rapids with an equal amount of fall as "good," "bad," or "nasty," the
-difference depending nearly altogether on the rocks in the rapids. The
-"good rapids" were nothing but a descent of "big water," with great
-waves,--for which we cared little, but rather enjoyed if it was not
-too cold,--and with no danger from rocks; the "bad rapids" contained
-rocks, and twisting channels, but with half a chance of getting
-through. A nasty rapid was filled with rocks, many of them so
-concealed in the foam that it was often next to impossible to tell if
-rocks were there or not, and in which there was little chance of
-running through without smashing a boat. The Hance Rapid was such a
-one.
-
-Such a complication of twisted channels and protruding rocks we had
-not seen unless it was at Hell's Half Mile. It meant a
-portage--nothing less--the second since leaving that other rapid in
-Lodore. So we went to work, carrying our duffle across deep, soft
-sand-dunes, down to the middle of the rapid, where quieted for a
-hundred yards before it made the final plunge. The gathering dusk of
-evening found all material and one boat at this spot, with the other
-one at the head of the rapid, to be portaged the next day. But we did
-not portage this boat. A good night's rest, and the safeguard of a
-boat at the bottom of the plunge made it look much less dangerous, and
-five minutes after breakfast was finished, this boat was beside its
-mate, and we had a reel of film which we hoped would show just how we
-successfully ran this difficult rapid. While going over the second
-section, on the opposite side of the river, Emery was thrown out of
-his boat for an instant when the _Edith_ touched a rock in a
-twenty-five mile an hour current, similar to my first upset in the
-Soap Creek Rapid--the old story: out again; in again; on
-again--landing in safety at the end of the rapid not one whit the
-worse for the spill.
-
-This rapid marks the place where the granite, or igneous rock,
-intrudes, rising at a sharp angle, sloping upward down the stream,
-reaching the height of 1300 feet about one mile below. It marks the
-end of the large deposit of algonkian. The granite, when it attains
-its highest point, is covered with a 200-foot layer of sedimentary
-rock called the tonto sandstone. The top of this formation is exposed
-by a plateau from a quarter of a mile to three miles in width, on
-either side of the granite gorge; the same walls which were found in
-Marble Canyon rise above this. The temples which are scattered through
-the canyon--equal in height, in many cases, to the walls--have their
-foundation on this plateau. These peaks contain the same stratified
-rock with a uniform thickness whether in peak or wall, with little
-displacement and little sign of violent uplift, nearly all this canyon
-being the work of erosion: 5000 feet from the rim to the river; the
-edges of six great layers of sedimentary rock laid bare and with a
-narrow 1300-foot gorge through the igneous rock below--the Grand
-Canyon of Arizona.
-
-The granite gorge seemed to us to be the one place of all others that
-we had seen on this trip that would cause one to hesitate a long time
-before entering, if nothing definite was known of its nature. Another
-person might have felt the same way of the canyons we had passed,
-Lodore or Marble Canyon, for instance. A great deal depends on the
-nerves and digestion, no doubt; and the same person would look at it
-in a different light at different times, as we found from our own
-experiences. Our digestions were in excellent condition just at that
-time, and we were nerved up by the thought that we were going "to the
-plate for a home run" if possible, yet the granite gorge had a
-decidedly sinister look. The walls, while not sheer, were nearly so;
-they might be climbed in many places to the top of the granite; but
-the tonto sandstone wall nearly always overhangs this, breaks sheer,
-and seldom affords an outlet to the plateaus above, except where
-lateral canyons cut through. The rocks are very dark, with dikes of
-quartz, and with twisting seams of red and black granite, the great
-body of rock being made up of decomposed micaceous schists and gneiss,
-a treacherous material to climb. The entrance to this gorge is made on
-a quiet pool with no shore on either side after once well in.
-
-But several parties had been through since Major Powell made his
-initial trip, so we did not hesitate, but pushed on with the current.
-Now we could truly say that we were going home. The Hance Rapid was
-behind us; Bright Angel Creek was about twelve miles away. Soon we
-were in the deepest part of the gorge. Great dikes and uplifts of
-jagged rocks towered above us; and up, up, up, lifted the other walls
-above that. Bissell Point, on the very top, could plainly be seen from
-our quiet pool.
-
-Then came a series of rapids quite different from the Hance Rapid, and
-many others found above. Those others were usually caused in part by
-the detritus or deposit from side canyons, which dammed the stream,
-and what might be a swift stream, with a continuous drop, was
-transformed to a succession of mill-ponds and cataracts, or rapids. In
-nearly every case, in low water such as we were travelling on, the
-deposit made a shore on which we could land and inspect the rapid from
-below. The swift water invariably makes a narrow channel if it has no
-obstruction in its way; it is the quiet stream that makes a wide
-channel. But the rapids we found this day were nearly all different.
-They were seldom caused by great deposits of rock, but appeared to be
-formed by a dike or ledge of hard rock rising from the softer
-rock--the same intrusion being sometimes found on both sides of the
-stream--forming a dam the full width of the channel, over which the
-water made a swift descent, with a long line of interference waves
-below. But for a cold wind which swept up the stream, this style of
-rapid was more to our fancy. These were "good rapids," the "best" we
-had seen. There were few rocks to avoid. Some of the rapids were
-violent, but careful handling took us past every danger. There was
-little chance to make a portage at several of these places had we
-desired to do so. We gave them but a glance from the decks of the
-boats, then dropped into them. In one instance I saw the _Edith_
-literally shoot through a wave bow first, both ends of the boat being
-visible, while her captain was buried in the foam.
-
-We had learned to discriminate by its noise, long before we could see
-a rapid, whether it was filled with rocks, or was merely a descent of
-big water. The latter, often just as impressive as the former, had a
-sullen, steady boom; the rocky rapids had the same sound, punctuated
-by another sound, like the crack of regiments of musketry. All were
-greatly magnified in sound by the narrow, echoing walls. We became so
-accustomed to this noise that we almost forgot it was there, and it
-was only after the long, quiet stretches that the noise was noticed In
-a few instances only we noticed the shattering vibration of air that
-is associated with waterfalls. Still there is noise enough in many
-rapids so that their boom can be heard several miles away from the top
-of the canyons.
-
-Guided by these sounds, and aided by our method of holding the boat in
-mid-stream, while making a reconnaissance, we were quite well aware of
-what we were likely to find before we anchored above a rapid. We were
-never fearful of being drawn into a cataract without having a chance
-to land somewhere. The water is strangely quiet, to a comparatively
-close distance above nearly all rapids. We usually tied up anywhere
-from fifty feet to a hundred yards above a drop, before inspecting it.
-If it was a "big-water" rapid, we usually looked it over standing on
-the seat in the boats, then continued. By signals with the hands, the
-one first over would guide the other, if any hidden rocks or dangerous
-channel threatened. While we did not think much about it, we usually
-noted the places where one might climb out on the plateau. Little
-could be told about the upper walls from the river.
-
-A chilling wind swept up the river, penetrating our soaked garments.
-But we paid little attention to this, only pulling the harder, not
-only to keep the circulation going, but every pull of the oars put us
-that much nearer home. We never paused in our rowing until we anchored
-at 4.30 P.M. under Rust's tramway, close to the mouth of Bright Angel
-Creek. According to the United States Geological Survey there is a
-descent of 178 feet from the head of the Hance Rapid to the end of
-Bright Angel Trail one mile below the creek. We would have a very
-moderate descent in that mile. The run from the Hance Rapid had been
-made in less than five hours.
-
-Our boats were tied in the shadow of the cage hanging from a cable
-sixty feet above. It stretched across a quiet pool, 450 feet
-across--for the river is dammed by debris from the creek below, and
-fills the channel from wall to wall. Hurriedly we made our way up to
-Rust's camp,--closed for the winter; for heavy snows would cover the
-North Rim in a few days or a few weeks at the farthest, filling the
-trails with heavy drifts and driving the cougar into the canyon where
-dogs and horses cannot follow. But the latch-string was out for us, we
-knew, had we cared to use the tents. Our signal fire was built a mile
-above the camp, at a spot that was plainly visible on a clear day from
-our home on the other side, six miles away as the crow flies. We had
-often looked at this spot, with a telescope, from the veranda of our
-studio, watching the hunting and sight-seeing parties ride up the bed
-of the stream. We rather feared the drifting clouds and mists would
-hide the fire from view, but now and then a rift appeared, and we knew
-if they were looking they could see its light. Camp No. 51 was made
-close to Bright Angel Creek, that evening, Thursday, October the 16th,
-two months and eight days from the time we had embarked on our
-journey.
-
-Three or four hours were spent in packing our material the next
-morning, so it could be stored in a miners' tunnel, near the end of
-the trail. We would pack little of this out, as we intended to resume
-our river work in a week or ten days. A five-minute run took us over
-the rapid below Bright Angel Creek, and down to a bend in the river,
-just above the Cameron or Bright Angel Trail. Two men--guides from the
-hotel--called to us as our boats swept into view. We made a quick dash
-over the vicious little drop below the bend,--easy for our boats, but
-dangerous enough for lighter craft on account of a difficult
-whirlpool,--and were soon on shore greeting old friends. Up on the
-plateau, 1300 feet above, a trail party of tourists and guides called
-down their welcome. The stores were put in the miners' tunnel as we
-had planned, and the boats were taken above the high-water mark;
-placed in dry dock one might say.
-
-The guides had good news for us and bad news too. Emery's wife had
-been ill with appendicitis nearly all the time we were on our journey.
-We had received letters from her at every post-office excepting Lee's
-Ferry, but never a hint that all was not well. She knew it would break
-up the trip. Pretty good nerve, we thought!
-
-Ragged and weary, but happy; a little lean and over-trained, but
-feeling entirely "fit,"--we commenced our seven-mile climb up the
-trail, every turn of which seemed like an old friend. When 1300 feet
-above the river, our little workshop beside a stream on the
-plateau--only used at intervals when no water can be had on top, and
-closed for three months past--gave us our first cheerless greeting.
-Although little more than a hundred feet from the trail, we did not
-stop to inspect it. Cameron's Indian Garden Camp was also closed for
-the day, and we were disappointed in a hope that we could telephone to
-our home, 3200 feet above. But the tents, under rows of waving
-cottonwoods, and surrounded by beds of blooming roses and glorious
-chrysanthemums, gave us a more cheerful welcome than our little
-building below. We only stopped to quench our thirst in the bubbling
-spring, then began the four-mile climb that would put us on top of the
-towering cliff. Soon we overtook the party we had seen on the plateau.
-Some of the tourists kindly offered us their mules, but mules were too
-slow for us, and they were soon far below us. Calls, faint at first,
-but growing louder as we advanced, came floating down from above. On
-nearing the top our younger brother Ernest, who had come on from
-Pittsburg to look after our business, came running down the trail to
-greet us. One member of a troupe of moving-picture actors, in cowboy
-garb, remarked that we "didn't look like moving-picture explorers";
-then little Edith emerged from our studio just below the head of
-Bright Angel Trail and came skipping down toward us, but stopped
-suddenly when near us, and said smilingly: "Is that my Daddy with all
-those whiskers?"
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XX
-
-
-
-ONE MONTH LATER
-
-Naturally we were very impatient to know just what success we had met
-with in our photographic work. Some of the motion pictures had been
-printed and returned to us. My brother, who meanwhile had taken his
-family to Los Angeles, sent very encouraging reports regarding some of
-the films.
-
-Among the Canyon visitors who came down to inspect the results of our
-trip were Thomas Moran, the famous artist, with his daughter, Miss
-Ruth, whose interest was more than casual. Thomas Moran's name, more
-than any other, with the possible exception of Major Powell's, is to
-be associated with the Grand Canyon. It was his painting which hangs
-in the capital at Washington that first acquainted the American public
-with the wonders of the Canyon. This painting was the result of a
-journey he made with Major Powell, from Salt Lake City to the north
-side of the Canyon, thirty-eight years before. In addition he had made
-most of the cuts that illustrated Major Powell's government report;
-making his sketches on wood from photographs this expedition had taken
-with the old-fashioned wet plates that had to be coated and developed
-on the spot--wonderful photographs, which for beauty, softness, and
-detail are not excelled, and are scarcely equalled by more modern
-plates and photographic results. The only great advantage of the dry
-plates was the fact that they could catch the action of the water with
-an instantaneous exposure, where the wet plates had to have a long
-exposure and lost that action.
-
-Thomas Moran could pick up almost any picture that we made, and tell
-us at once just what section it came from and its identifying
-characteristics. His daughter, Miss Ruth, was just as much interested
-in our trip and its results. She was anxious to know when we would go
-on again and planned on making the trail trip down to the plateau to
-see us take the plunge over the first rough rapid. She was just a
-little anxious to see an upset, and asked if we could not promise that
-one would occur.
-
-A month passed before my brother returned from Los Angeles. His wife,
-who had remained there, was in good health again, and insisted on his
-finishing the trip at once. We were just as anxious to have it
-finished, but were not very enthusiastic about this last part on
-account of some very cold weather we had been having. On the other
-hand, we feared if the trip was not finished then it might never be
-completed. So we consoled ourselves with the thought that it was some
-warmer at the bottom than it was on top, and prepared to make the
-final plunge--350 miles to Needles, with a 1600-foot descent in the
-185 miles that remained of the Grand Canyon.
-
-A foot of snow had fallen two nights before we planned on leaving. The
-thermometer had dropped to zero, and a little below on one occasion,
-during the nights for a week past. Close to the top the trail was
-filled with drifts. The walls were white with snow down to the
-plateau, 3200 feet below; something unusual, as it seldom descends as
-snow lower than two thousand feet, but turns to rain. But a week of
-cold, cloudy weather, accompanied by hard winds, had driven all warmth
-from the canyon, allowing this snow to descend lower than usual. Under
-such conditions the damp cold in the canyon, while not registered on
-the thermometer as low as that on top, is more penetrating. Very
-little sun reaches the bottom of the inner gorge in December and
-January. It is usually a few degrees colder than the inner plateau
-above it, which is open, and does get some sun. These were the
-conditions when we returned to our boats December the 19th, 1911, and
-found a thin covering of ice on small pools near the river.
-
-Our party was enlarged by the addition of two men who were anxious for
-some river experience. One was our younger brother, Ernest. We agreed
-to take him as far as the Bass Trail, twenty-five miles below, where
-he could get out on top and return to our home. The other was a young
-man named Bert Lauzon, who wanted to make the entire trip, and we were
-glad to have him. Lauzon, although but 24 years old, had been a quartz
-miner and mining engineer for some years. Coming from the mountains of
-Colorado, he had travelled over most of the Western states, and a
-considerable part of Mexico, in his expeditions. There was no question
-in our minds about Lauzon. He was the man we needed.
-
-To offset the weight of an extra man for each boat, our supplies were
-cut to the minimum, arrangements having been made with W.W. Bass--the
-proprietor of the Bass Camps and of the Mystic Springs Trail--to have
-some provisions packed in over his trail. What provisions we took
-ourselves were packed down on two mules, and anything we could spare
-from our boats was packed out on the same animals. As we were about
-ready to leave a friendly miner said: "You can't hook fish in the
-Colorado in the winter, they won't bite nohow. You'd better take a
-couple of sticks of my giant-powder along. That will help you get 'em,
-and it may keep you from starving." Under the circumstances it seemed
-like a wise precaution and we took his giant-powder, as he had
-suggested.
-
-The river had fallen two feet below the stage on which we quit a month
-before. A scale of foot-marks on a rock wall rising from the river
-showed that the water twenty-seven feet deep at that spot. No
-measurement was made in the middle of the river channel. The current
-here between two small rapids flows at five and three-fourths miles
-per hour. The width of the stream is close to 250 feet. The high-water
-mark here is forty-five feet above the low-water stage, then the river
-spreads to five hundred feet in width, running with a swiftness and
-strength of current and whirlpool that is tremendous. The highest
-authentic measurement in a narrow channel, of which we know, is one
-made by Julius F. Stone in Marble Canyon. He recorded one spot where
-the high-water mark was 115 feet above the low-water mark. These
-figures might look large at first, but if they are compared with some
-of the floods on the Ohio River, for instance, and that stream were
-boxed in a two hundred foot channel the difference would not be great,
-we imagine.
-
-One of the young men who greeted us when we landed came down with a
-companion to see us embark. On the plateau 1300 feet above, looking
-like small insects against the sky-line, was a trail party, equally
-interested. They did not stand on the point usually visited by such
-parties but had gone to a point about a mile to the west, where they
-had a good view of a short, rough rapid, the little rapid below the
-trail, while it was no place that one would care to swim in, had no
-comparison with this other rapid in violence. We had promised the
-party that we would run this rapid that afternoon, so we spent little
-time in packing systematically, but hurriedly threw the stuff in and
-embarked. Less than an hour later we had made the two-mile run and the
-dash through the short rapid, to the entire satisfaction of all
-concerned.
-
-We camped a short distance below the rapid, just opposite a grave of a
-man whose skeleton had been found halfway up the granite, five years
-before. Judging by his clothes and hob-nailed shoes he was a
-prospector. He was lying in a natural position, with his head resting
-on a rock. An overcoat was buttoned tightly about him. No large bones
-were broken, but he might have had a fall and been injured internally.
-More likely he became sick and died. The small bones of the hands and
-feet had been taken away by field-mice, and no doubt the
-turkey-buzzards had stripped the flesh. His pockets contained Los
-Angeles newspapers of 1900; he was found in 1906. The pockets also
-contained a pipe and a pocket-knife, but nothing by which he could be
-identified. The coroner's jury--of which my brother was a
-member--buried him where he was found, covering the body with rocks,
-for there was no earth.
-
-Such finds are not unusual in this rugged country. These prospectors
-seldom say where they are going, no track is kept of their movements,
-and unless something about their clothes tells who they are, their
-identity is seldom established. The proximity of this grave made us
-wonder how many more such unburied bodies there were along this river.
-We thought too of our friend Smith, back in Cataract Canyon, and
-wondered if we would hear from him again.
-
-Our helpers got a lot of experience in motion-picture making the next
-day, while we ran our boats through a number of good, strong rapids,
-well known locally as the Salt Creek Rapid, Granite Falls or Monument
-Rapid, the Hermit, the Bouchere, and others. This was all new to the
-boys, and provided some thrilling entertainment for them. When a
-difficult passage was safely made Bert would wave his hat and yell
-"Hoo" in a deep, long call that would carry above the roar of the
-rapids, then he and Ernest would follow along the shore with their
-cameras, as these rapids all had a shore on one side or the other. The
-sun shone on the river this day, and we congratulated ourselves on
-having made the most of our opportunities.
-
-In our first rapid the next morning, we had to carry our passengers
-whether we wanted to or not. There was no shore on either side. In
-such plunges they would lie down on the deck of the boat behind the
-oarsman, holding to the raised bulkhead, ducking their heads when an
-oncoming wave prepared to break over them. Then they would shake
-themselves as a water-spaniel does, and Bert with a grin would say,
-"Young fellows, business is picking up!"
-
-Ernest agreed, too, that he had never seen anything in Pittsburg that
-quite equalled it. If the rapid was not bad, they sat upright on the
-deck, but this made the boats top-heavy, and as much of the oarsman's
-work depended on swinging his weight from side to side, it was
-important that no mistake should be made about this distribution of
-weight. Often the bottom of a boat would show above the water as it
-listed to one side. At such a time a person sitting on the raised deck
-might get thrown overboard.
-
-Before starting on this last trip we had thought it would be only
-right to give our younger brother a ride in a rapid that would be sure
-to give him a good ducking, as his experience was going to be short.
-But the water and the wind, especially in the shadows, was so very
-cold that we gave this plan up, and avoided the waves as much as
-possible. He got a ducking this morning, however, in a place where we
-least expected it. It was not a rapid, just smooth, very swift water,
-while close to the right shore there was one submerged rock with a
-foot of water shooting over it, in such a way that it made a "reverse
-whirl" as they are called in Alaska--water rolling back upstream, and
-from all sides as well, to fill the vacuum just below the rock. This
-one was about twelve feet across; the water disappeared as though it
-was being poured down a manhole.
-
-The least care, or caution, would have taken me clear this place; but
-the smooth water was so deceptive, and was so much stronger than I had
-judged it to be, that I found myself caught sideways to the current,
-hemmed in with waves on all sides of the boat, knocked back and forth,
-and resisted in all my efforts to pull clear. The boat was gradually
-filling with the splashing water. Ernest was lying on the deck,
-hanging on like grim death, slipping off, first on one side, then on
-the other, and wondering what was going to happen. So was I. To be
-held up in the middle of a swift stream was a new experience, and I
-was not proud of it. The others passed as soon as they saw what had
-happened, and were waiting in an eddy below. Perhaps we were there
-only one minute, but it seemed like five. I helped Ernest into the
-cockpit. About that time the boat filled with splashing water and sunk
-low, the stream poured over the rock and into the boat, and she upset
-instantly.
-
-Ernest had on two life-preservers, and came up about thirty feet
-below, swimming very well considering that he was weighted with heavy
-clothes and high-topped shoes. The boys pulled him in before he was
-carried against a threatening wall. Meanwhile, I held to the boat,
-which was forced out as soon as she was overturned, and climbed on
-top, or rather on the bottom. I was trying to make the best of things
-and was giving a cheer when some one said, "There goes your hatch
-cover and you've lost the motion-picture camera."
-
-Perhaps I had. My cheering ceased. The camera had been hurriedly
-shoved down in the hatch a few minutes before.
-
-On being towed to shore, however, we found the camera had not fallen
-out. It had been shoved to the side less than one inch, but that
-little bit had saved it. It was filled with water, though, and all the
-pictures were on the unfinished roll in the camera, and were ruined.
-We had been in the ice-cold water long enough to lose that glow which
-comes after a quick immersion and were chilled through; but what
-bothered me more than anything else was the fact that I had been
-caught in such a trap after successfully running the bad rapids above.
-We made a short run after that so as to get out of sight of the
-deceptive place, then proceeded to dry out. The ruined film came in
-handy for kindling our camp-fire.
-
-We were now in the narrowest part of the upper portion of the Grand
-Canyon, the distance from rim to rim at one point being close to six
-miles. The width at Bright Angel varied from eight to fourteen miles.
-The peaks rising from the plateau, often as high as the canyon walls,
-and with flat tops a mile or more in width, made the canyon even
-narrower, so that at times we were in canyons close to a mile in
-depth, and little over four miles across at the tops.
-
-In this section of the granite there were few places where one could
-climb out. Nearly all the lateral canyons ended quite a distance above
-the river, then fell sheer; the lower parts of the walls were quite
-often smooth-surfaced, where they were polished by the sands in the
-stream. The black granite in such cases resembled huge deposits of
-anthracite coal. Sections of the granite often projected out of the
-water as islands, with the softer rock washed away, the granite being
-curiously carved by whirling rocks and the emery-like sands. Holes
-three and four feet deep were worn by small whirling rocks, and
-grooves were worn at one place by growing willows working back and
-forth in the water, the sand, strange to say, having less effect on
-the limbs than it had on the hard rocks.
-
-About noon of the day following this upset we reached the end of the
-Bass Trail and another cable crossing, about sixty feet above the
-water. Three men were waiting for us, and gave a call when we rowed in
-sight of their camp. One was Lauzon's brother, another was Cecil Dodd,
-a cowboy who looked after Bass' stock, and the breaking of his horses,
-the third was John Norberg, an "old timer" and an old friend as well,
-engaged at that time in working some asbestos and copper claims.
-
-The granite was broken down at this point, and another small deposit
-of algonkian was found here. There were intrusions, faults, and
-displacements both in these formations and in the layers above. These
-fractures exposed mineral seams and deposits of copper and asbestos on
-both sides of the river, some of which Bass had opened up and located,
-waiting for the day when there would be better transportation
-facilities than his burros afforded.
-
-This was not our first visit to this section. On other occasions we
-had descended by the Mystic Spring (or Bass) Trail, on the south side,
-crossed on the tramway and were taken by Bass over some of his many
-trails, on the north side. We had visited the asbestos claims, where
-the edge of a blanket formation of the rock known as serpentine,
-containing the asbestos, lay exposed to view, twisting around the head
-of narrow canyons, and under beetling cliffs. We went halfway up the
-north rim trail, through Shinumo and White canyons, our objective
-point on these trips being a narrow box canyon which contained a large
-boulder, rolled from the walls above, and wedged in the flume-like
-gorge far above our heads. This trail continues up to the top, going
-over the narrow neck which connects Powell's Plateau--a segregated
-section of thickly wooded surface several miles in extent--with the
-main extent of the Kaibab Plateau.
-
-Ernest, though slightly affected with tonsillitis, was loath to leave
-us here. It was zero weather on top, we were told, and it looked it.
-The walls and peaks were white with snow. He would not have an easy
-trip. The drifted snow was only broken by the one party that we found
-at the river, and quite likely it would be very late when he arrived
-at the ranch. John went up with him a few miles to get a horse for the
-ride home the next day. Ernest took with him a few hurriedly written
-letters and the exposed plates. The film we were going to save was
-lost in the upset.
-
-On inspecting the provisions which were packed in here we found the
-grocers had shipped the order short, omitting, besides other
-necessities, some canned baked beans, on which we depended a great
-deal. This meant one of two things. We would have to make a quicker
-run than we had planned on, or would have to get out of the canyon at
-one of the two places where such an exit could easily be made.
-
-The M. P. as our motion-picture camera was called--and which was
-re-christened but not abbreviated by Bert, as "The Member of
-Parliament"--had to be cleaned before we could proceed. It took all
-this day, and much of the next, to get the moisture and sand out of
-the delicate mechanism, and have it running smoothly again. After it
-was once more in good condition Emery announced that he wanted to work
-out a few scenes of an uncompleted "movie-drama." The action was
-snappy. The plot was brief, but harmonized well with the setting, and
-the "props." Dodd, who was a big Texan, was cast for the role of horse
-thief and bad man in general. Bert's brother, Morris Lauzon, was the
-deputy sheriff, and had a star cut from the top of a tomato can to
-prove it. John was to be a prospector. He would need little rehearsing
-for this part. In addition, he had not been out where he could have
-the services of a barber for six months past, which was all the
-better. John had a kind, quiet, easy-going way that made friends for
-him on sight. He was not consulted about the part he was to play, but
-we counted on his good nature and he was cast for the part. Emery, who
-was cast for the part of a mining engineer, arrived on the scene in
-his boat, after rounding the bend above the camp, tied up and climbed
-out over the cliffs to view the surrounding country.
-
-The hidden desperado, knowing that he was being hunted, stole the boat
-with its contents, and made his escape. The returning engineer arrived
-just in time to see his boat in the middle of the stream, and a
-levelled rifle halted him until the boat was hidden around the bend.
-At that moment the officer joined him, and a hurried consultation was
-held. Then the other boat, which had been separated from its
-companion, pulled into sight, and I was hailed by the men on shore.
-They came aboard and we gave chase. Could anything be better? The
-thief naturally thought he was safe, as he had not seen the second
-boat! After going over a few rapids, he saw a fire up in the cliffs,
-on the opposite side of the river. He landed, and climbed up to the
-camp where John was at work. John shared his camp fare with him, and
-directed him to a hidden trail. The pursuers, on finding the abandoned
-boat, quietly followed the trail, and surprised Dodd in John's camp.
-He was disarmed and sent across the river in the tramway, accompanied
-by the deputy, and was punished as he richly deserved to be.
-
-This was the scenario. Bert handled the camera. Emery was the
-playwright, director, and producer. All rights reserved.
-
-Everything worked beautifully. The film did not get balled up in the
-cogs, as sometimes happened. The light was good. Belasco himself could
-not have improved on the stage-setting. The trail led over the
-wildest, and most picturesque places imaginable. Dodd made a splendid
-desperado, and acted as if he had done nothing but steal horses and
-dodge the officers all his life. A pile of driftwood fifty feet high
-and with a tunnel underneath made a splendid hiding place for him
-while the first boat was being tied. Being a cowpuncher, it may be
-that he did not handle the oars as well as an experienced riverman,
-but any rapid could be used for an insert. The deputy, though
-youthful, was determined and never lost sight of the trail. The
-engineer acted his part well and registered surprise and anger, when
-he found how he had been tricked. John, who had returned, humoured us,
-and dug nuggets of gold out of limestone rocks, where no one would
-have thought of looking for them. The fact that the tramway scene was
-made before any of the others did not matter. We could play our last
-act first if we wanted to. All we had to do was to cut the film and
-fasten it on to the end. Emery was justly proud of his first efforts
-as a producer. We were sorry this film had not been sent out with
-Ernest.
-
-This thrilling drama will not be released in the near future. One day
-later we found that a drop of water had worked into the lens cell at
-the last upset. This fogged the lens. We focussed with a scale and had
-overlooked the lens when cleaning the camera. Nothing but a very faint
-outline showed on the film. We had all the film we needed for a week
-after this, for kindling our fires.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXI
-
-
-
-WHAT CHRISTMAS EVE BROUGHT
-
-In recording our various mishaps and upsets in these pages, it may
-seem to the reader as if I have given undue prominence to the part I
-took in them. If so, it has not been from choice, but because they
-happened in that way. No doubt a great deal of my trouble was due to
-carelessness. After I had learned to row my boat fairly well I
-sometimes took chances that proved to be anything but advisable,
-depending a good deal on luck, and luck was not always with me. My
-brother was less hasty in making his decisions, and was more careful
-in his movements, with the result that his boat had few marks of any
-kind, and he had been more fortunate than I with the rapids.
-
-It is my duty to record another adventure at this point, in which we
-all three shared, each in a different manner. This time I am going to
-give my brother's record of the happenings that overtook us about four
-o'clock in the afternoon of December the 24th, less than three hours
-after we left our friends at the Bass Trail with "best wishes for a
-Merry Christmas," and had received instructions from John "to keep our
-feet dry"
-
-My brother's account follows:
-
-     "The fourth rapid below the Bass Trail was bad, but after
-     looking it over we decided it could be run. We had taken
-     chances in rapids that looked worse and came through
-     unharmed; if we were successful here, it would be over in a
-     few minutes, and forgotten an hour later. So we each made
-     the attempt."
-
-     "Lauzon had gone near the lower end of the rapid, taking the
-     left shore, for a sixty-foot wall with a sloping bench on
-     top rose sheer out of the water on the right. The only shore
-     on the right was close to the head of the rapid, a small
-     deposit or bank of earth and rock. The inner gorge here was
-     about nine hundred feet deep."
-
-     "Ellsworth went first, taking the left-hand side. I picked
-     out a course on the right as being the least dangerous; but
-     I was scarcely started when I found myself on a nest of
-     jagged rocks, with violent water all about me, and with
-     other rocks, some of them submerged, below me. I climbed out
-     on the rocks and held the boat."
-
-     "If the others could land below the rapid and climb back,
-     they might get a rope to me and pull me off the rocks far
-     enough to give me a new start, but they could not pull the
-     boat in to shore through the rough water. A person thinks
-     quickly under such circumstances, I had it all figured out
-     as soon as I was on the rocks. The greatest trouble would be
-     to hold the boat if she broke loose."
-
-     "Then I saw that the _Defiance_ was in trouble. She caught
-     in a reverse whirl in the very middle of the pounding rapid,
-     bouncing back and forth like a great rubber ball. Finally
-     she filled with the splashing water, sank low, and the water
-     pouring over the rock caught the edge of the twelve-hundred
-     pound boat and turned her over as if she were a toy; my
-     brother was holding to the gunwale when she turned. Still
-     she was held in the whirl, jumping as violently as ever,
-     then turned upright again and was forced out. Ellsworth had
-     disappeared, but came up nearly a hundred feet below,
-     struggling to keep on top but going down with every breaking
-     wave. When the quieter water was reached, he did not seem to
-     have strength enough to swim out, but floated, motionless,
-     in a standing position, his head kept up by the
-     life-preservers. The next rapid was not over fifty yards
-     below. If he was to be saved it must be done instantly."
-
-     "I pried the boat loose, jumped in as she swung clear, and
-     pulled with all my might, headed toward the centre of the
-     river. I was almost clear when I was drawn over a dip, bow
-     first, and struck a glancing blow against another rock I had
-     never seen. There was a crash, and the boards broke like
-     egg-shells. It was all done in a few moments. The _Edith_
-     was a wreck, I did not know how bad. My brother had
-     disappeared. Lauzon was frantically climbing over some large
-     boulders trying to reach the head of the next rapid, where
-     the boat was held in an eddy. My boat was not upset, but the
-     waves were surging through a great hole in her side. She was
-     drawn into an eddy, close to the base of the wall, where I
-     could tie up and climb out. It seemed folly to try the lower
-     end with my filled boat. Climbing to the top of the rock, I
-     could see half a mile down the canyon, but my brother was
-     nowhere to be seen and I had no idea that he had escaped. I
-     was returning to my wrecked boat when Bert waved his arms,
-     and pointed to the head of the rapid. Going back once more,
-     I saw him directly below me at the base of the sheer rock,
-     in an opening where the wall receded. He had crawled out
-     twenty feet above the next rapid. Returning to my wrecked
-     boat, I was soon beside him. He was exhausted with his
-     struggle in the icy waves; his outer garments were frozen. I
-     soon procured blankets from my bed, removed the wet clothes,
-     and wrapped him up. Lauzon, true to our expectations of what
-     he would do when the test came, swam out and rescued the
-     _Defiance_ before she was carried over the next rapid. He
-     was inexperienced at the oars and had less than two hours
-     practice after he had joined us. It was a tense moment when
-     he started across, above the rapid. But he made it! Landing
-     with a big grin, he exclaimed, 'Young fellows, business is
-     picking up!' then added, 'And we're losing lots of good
-     pictures!'"
-
-     "These experiences were our Christmas presents that year.
-     They were not done up in small packages."
-
-     "We repaired the boat on Christmas day. Three smashed side
-     ribs were replaced with mesquite, which we found growing on
-     the walls. The hole was patched with boards from the loose
-     bottom. This was painted; canvas was tacked over that and
-     painted also, and a sheet of tin or galvanized iron went
-     over it all. This completed the repair and the _Edith_ was
-     as seaworthy as before."
-
-     This is Emery's account of the "Christmas Rapid."
-
-I will add that the freezing temperature of the water and the struggle
-for breath in the breaking waves left me exhausted and at the mercy of
-the river. An eddy drew me out of the centre of the stream when I had
-given up all hope of any escape from the next rapid. I had seen my
-brother on the rock below the head of the rapid and knew there was no
-hope from him. As I was being drawn back into the current, close to
-the end of the sheer wall on the right, my feet struck bottom on some
-debris washed down from the cliff. I made three efforts to stand but
-fell each time, and finally crawled out on my hands and knees. I had
-the peculiar sensation of seeing a rain-storm descending before my
-eyes, although I knew no such thing existed; every fibre in my body
-ached and continued to do so for days afterward; and the moment I
-would close my eyes to sleep I would see mountainous waves about me
-and would feel myself being whirled head over heels just as I was in
-that rapid; but this rapid, strange to say, while exceedingly rough
-and swift, did not contain any waves that we would have considered
-large up to this time. In other words, it depended on the
-circumstances whether it was bad or not. When standing on the shore,
-picking a channel, it appeared to be a moderately bad rapid, in which
-a person, aided with life-preservers, should have little difficulty in
-keeping on top, at least half the time. After my battle, in which, as
-far as personal effort went, I had lost, and after my providential
-escape, that one rapid appeared to be the largest of the entire
-series.
-
-It is difficult to describe the rapids with the foot-rule standard,
-and give an idea of their power. One unfamiliar with "white water"
-usually associates a twelve-foot descent or a ten-foot wave with a
-similar wave on the ocean. There is no comparison. The waters of the
-ocean rise and fall, the waves travel, the water itself, except in
-breakers, is comparatively still. In bad rapids the water is whirled
-through at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, in some cases much
-swifter; the surface is broken by streams shooting up from every
-submerged rock; the weight of the river is behind it, and the waves,
-instead of tumbling forward, quite as often break upstream. Such
-waves, less than six feet high, are often dangers to be shunned. After
-being overturned in them we learned their tremendous power, a power we
-would never have associated with any water, before such an experience,
-short of a waterfall.
-
-There is a certain amount of danger in the canyons,--plenty of it.
-Still, in most cases, with care and forethought, much of it can be
-avoided. We think we are safe in saying that half of the parties who
-have attempted a passage through these canyons have met with
-fatalities. Most of these have occurred in Cataract Canyon, not
-because it is any worse than other sections,--certainly no worse than
-the Grand Canyon,--but because it is easily entered from the quiet,
-alluring water of the lower Green River. Without a doubt each
-successful expedition is responsible in a way for others' attempts. In
-nearly every instance the unfortunate ones have underestimated the
-danger, and have attempted the passage with inadequate boats, such as
-Smith had for instance, undecked and without air chambers. Both of
-these are imperative for safety.
-
-We had the benefit of the experiences of others. In addition, our
-years of work in the canyons had robbed them of their imaginary
-dangers, and--while we trust that we are not entirely without
-imagination--much of their weirdness and glamour with which they are
-inseparable to the idealist and the impressionist. Each of these
-upsets could have been avoided by a portage had we desired to make
-one, but success in other rapids made us a little reckless and ready
-to take a chance.
-
-Beyond getting our flour wet on the outside, we suffered very little
-loss to our cargo. We placed the two flour sacks beside the fires each
-evening, until the wet flour dried to a crust. We continued to use out
-of the centre of the sacks as though nothing had ever happened.
-
-Bert and I each had a little cough the next morning, but it
-disappeared by noon. Beyond that, we suffered no great inconvenience
-from our enforced bath. Sleeping in the open, with plenty of healthful
-exercise, kept us physically fit.
-
-The cold air and the cold water did not seem to bother the others, but
-I could not get comfortably warm during this cold snap. Added to this,
-it took me some time to get over my scare, and I could see all kinds
-of danger, in rapids, where Emery could see none. I insisted on
-untying the photographic cases from the boats, and carrying them
-around a number of rapids before we ran them. It is hardly necessary
-to say that no upset occurred in these rapids.
-
-Then came a cold day, with a raw wind sweeping up the river. A coating
-of ice covered the boats and the oars. We had turned directly to the
-north along the base of Powell's plateau, and were nearing the end of
-a second granite gorge, with violent rapids and jagged rocks. Emery
-made the remark that he had not had a swim for some time. In a
-half-hour we came to a rapid with two twelve-foot waves in the centre
-of the stream, with a projecting point above that would have to be
-passed, before we could pull out of the swift-running centre. Emery
-got his swim there. I was just behind and was more fortunate. I never
-saw anything more quickly done. Before the boat was fully overturned
-he swung an oar, so that it stuck out at an angle from the side of the
-boat, and used the oar for a step; an instant later he had cut the oar
-loose, and steered toward the shore. Bert threw him a rope from the
-shore, and he was pulled in. He was wearing a thin rubber coat fitting
-tightly about his wrists, tied about his neck, and belted at the
-waist. This protected him so thoroughly that he was only wet from the
-waist down.
-
-If we were a little inclined to be proud of our record above Bright
-Angel we had forgotten all about it by this time. We were scarcely
-more than sixty miles from home and had experienced three upsets and a
-smashed boat, all in one week.
-
-Just at the end of the second granite section we made our first
-portage since leaving Bright Angel. Bert and I worked on the boats,
-while Emery cooked the evening meal.
-
-Hot rice soup, flavoured with a can of prepared meat, was easily and
-quickly prepared, and formed one of the usual dishes at these meals.
-It contained a lot of nutriment, and the rice took up but little space
-in the boats. Sometimes the meat was omitted, and raisins were
-substituted. Prepared baked beans were a staple dish, but were not in
-our supply on this last part of the trip. We often made "hot cakes"
-twice a day; an excuse for eating a great deal of butter and honey, or
-syrup. None of these things were luxuries. They were the best
-foodstuff we could carry. We seemed to crave sweet stuff, and used
-quantities of sugar. We could carry eggs, when packed in sawdust,
-without trouble but did not carry many. We had little meat; what we
-had was bacon, and prepared meats of the lunch variety. Cheese was our
-main substitute for meat. It was easily carried and kept well. Dried
-peaches or apricots were on the bill for nearly every meal, each day's
-allowance being cooked the evening before. We tried several condensed
-or emergency foods, but discarded them all but one, for various
-reasons. The exception was Erbeswurst, a patent dried soup
-preparation. Other prepared soups were carried also. I must not forget
-the morning cereal. It was Cream of Wheat, easily prepared; eaten--not
-served, perhaps devoured would be a better word--with sugar and
-condensed cream, as long as it lasted, then with butter. Any remainder
-from breakfast was fried for other meals. Each evening, we would make
-some baking-powder biscuit in a frying-pan. A Dutch oven is better,
-but had too much weight. The appellation for such bread is "flapjack"
-or "dough-god." When I did the baking they were fearfully and
-wonderfully made. Cocoa, which was nourishing, often took the place of
-coffee. In fact our systems craved just what was most needed to build
-up muscle and create heat. We found it was useless to try to catch
-fish after the weather became cold. The fish would not bite.
-
-On the upper end of our journey we carried no tobacco, as it happened
-that Jimmy as well as ourselves were not tobacco users. There were no
-alcoholic stimulants. When Bert joined us, a small flask, for
-medicinal purposes only, was taken along. The whiskey was scarcely
-touched at this time. Bert enjoyed a pipe after his meals, but
-continued to keep good-natured even when his tobacco got wet, so
-tobacco was not absolutely necessary to him.
-
-Uninteresting and unromantic these things may be, but they were most
-important to us. We were only sorry the supply was not larger. While
-we never stinted ourselves, or cut the allowance of food, the amount
-was growing smaller every day, and it was not a question any more
-whether we would go out or not, to get provisions, to "rustle" as Bert
-called it, but where we would go out. We might go up Cataract Creek or
-Ha Va Su Creek, as it is sometimes called. We had been to the mouth of
-this canyon on foot, so there would be no danger of missing it. The Ha
-Va Supai Indians, about two hundred in number, lived in this lateral
-canyon about seven or eight miles from the river. An agent and a
-farmer lived with them, and might be able to sell us some provisions;
-if not, it would be fifty miles back to our home. The trail was much
-more direct than the river. The great drawback to this course was the
-fact that Ha Va Su Canyon, sheer-walled, deep, and narrow, contained a
-number of waterfalls, one of them about 175 feet high. The precipice
-over which it fell was nothing but a mineral deposit from the water,
-building higher every year. Formerly this was impassable, until some
-miners, after enlarging a sloping cave, had cut a winding stairway in
-it, which allowed a descent to be made to the bottom of the fall. A
-recent storm had remodelled all the falls in Cataract Creek Canyon,
-cutting out the travertine in some places, piling it up in others. A
-great mass of cottonwood trees were also mixed with the debris. The
-village, too, had been washed away and was then being rebuilt. We had
-been told that the tunnel was filled up, and as far as we knew no one
-had been to the river since the flood.
-
-The other outlet was Diamond Creek Canyon, much farther down the
-river. We would decide when we got to Ha Va Su just what we would do.
-
-Tapeets Creek, one mile below our camp,--a stream which has
-masqueraded under the title of Thunder River, and about which there
-has been considerable speculation,--proved to be a stream a little
-smaller than Bright Angel Creek, flowing through a narrow slot in the
-rocks, and did not fall sheer into the river, as has been reported.
-Perhaps a small cascade known as Surprise Falls which we passed the
-next day has been confused with Tapeets Creek. This stream corkscrews
-down through a narrow crevice and falls about two hundred feet, close
-to the river's edge. We are told that the upper end of Tapeets Creek
-is similar to this, but on a much larger scale.
-
-Just opposite this fall a big mountain-sheep jumped from under an
-overhanging ledge close to the water, and stared curiously at us, as
-though he wondered what strange things those were coming down with the
-current. It is doubtful if he ever saw a human being before. This
-sight sent us scrambling in our cases for cameras and firearms; and it
-was not the game laws, but a rusted trigger on the six-shooter
-instead, that saved the sheep. He finally took alarm and scampered
-away over the rocks, and we had no mutton stew that night.
-
-We had one night of heavy rain, and morning revealed a little snow
-within three hundred feet of the river, while a heavy white blanket
-covered the upper cliffs. It continued to snow on top, and rained on
-us nearly all this day. Emery took this opportunity to get the drop of
-moisture out of the lens, and put the camera in such shape that we
-could proceed with our picture making. A short run was made after this
-work was completed.
-
-The camp we were just leaving was about three miles above Kanab
-Canyon. The granite was behind us, disappearing with a steep descent
-much as it had emerged at the Hance Trail. There was also a small
-deposit of algonkian. This too had been passed, and we were back in
-the limestone and sandstone walls similar to the lower end of Marble
-Canyon. While the formations were the same, the canyon differed. The
-layers were thicker, the red sandstone and the marble walls were
-equally sheer; there was no plateau between. What plateau this canyon
-contained lay on top of the red sandstone. Few peaks rose above this.
-The canyon had completed its northern run and was turning back again
-to the west-southwest with a great sweep or circle. Less than an
-hour's work brought us to Kanab Canyon.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXII
-
-
-
-SHORT OF PROVISIONS IN A SUNLESS GORGE
-
-In the mud at Kanab Canyon we saw an old footprint of some person who
-had come down to the river through this narrow, gloomy gorge. It was
-here that Major Powell terminated his second voyage, on account of
-extreme high water. A picture they made showed their boats floated up
-in this side canyon. Our stage was much lower than this. F.S.
-Dellenbaugh, the author of "A Canyon Voyage," was a member of this
-second expedition. This book had been our guide down to this point; we
-could not have asked for a better one. Below here we had a general
-idea of the nature of the river, and had a set of the government maps,
-but we had neglected to provide ourselves with detailed information
-such as this volume gave us.
-
-Evening of the following day found us at Cataract Creek Canyon, but
-with a stage of water in the river nearly fifty feet lower than that
-which we had seen a few years before. The narrow entrance of this
-great canyon gives no hint of what it is like a few miles above.
-
-The Indian village is in the bottom of a 3000-foot canyon, half a mile
-wide and three miles long, covered with fertile fields, peach and
-apricot orchards. It even contained a few fig trees. Below the village
-the canyon narrowed to a hundred yards, with a level bottom, covered
-with a tangle of wild grape vines, cactus, and cottonwood trees. This
-section contained the two largest falls, and came to an end about four
-miles below the first fall. Then the canyon narrowed, deep and gloomy,
-until there was little room for anything but the powerful, rapidly
-descending stream. At the lower end it was often waist deep and
-fifteen or twenty feet wide. It was no easy task to go through this
-gorge. The stream had to be crossed several times. The canyon
-terminated in an extremely narrow gorge 2500 feet deep, dark and
-gloomy, one of the most impressive gorges we have ever seen. The main
-canyon was similar, with a few breaks on the sides, those breaks being
-ledges, or narrow sloping benches that would extend for miles, only to
-be brought to an abrupt end by side canyons. There are many
-mountain-sheep in this section, but we saw none either time. We could
-see many fresh tracks where they had followed these ledges around, and
-had gone up the narrow side canyon. It was cold in the main canyon,
-and no doubt the sheep could be found on the plateaus, which were more
-open, and would get sun when the sun shone. This plateau was 2500 feet
-above us. At the turn of the canyon we could see the other walls 2000
-feet above that. The rapids in the section just passed had been widely
-separated and compared well with those of Marble Canyon, not the worst
-we had seen, but far from being tame. There was plenty of shore room
-at each of these rapids.
-
-Cactus of different species was now a feature of the scenery. The
-ocotilla or candlewood with long, lash-like stalks springing from a
-common centre--that cactus, which, when dried, needs only a lighted
-match to set it afire--flourishes in the rocky ledges. A species of
-small barrel-cactus about the size of a man's head, with fluted sides,
-or symmetrical vertical rows of small thorned lumps converging at the
-top of the "nigger-head," as they are sometimes called, grows in great
-numbers in crevices on the walls. The delicate "pin cushion" gathered
-in clusters of myriad small spiny balls. The prickly pear, here in Ha
-Va Su Canyon, were not the starved, shrivelled, mineral-tinted cactus
-such as we found at the beginning of our trip. Instead they were green
-and flourishing, with large fleshy leaves joining on to each other
-until they rise to a height of three feet or more and cover large
-patches of ground to the utter exclusion of all other growth. What a
-display of yellow and red these desert plants put forth when they are
-in bloom! A previous visit to Ha Va Su was made in the month of May
-when every group of prickly pear was a riot of pure colour. All this
-prolific growth is made possible by the extreme heat of the summer
-months aided in the case of those plants and trees which flourish in
-the fertile soil of Ha Va Su by the sub-irrigation and the spray from
-the fall.
-
-After making an inventory of our provisions we concluded not to try
-the tedious and uncertain trip up Cataract Creek. With care and good
-fortune we would have enough provisions to last us to Diamond Creek.
-
-With our run the next day the inner gorge continued to deepen, the
-walls drew closer together, so that we now had a narrow gorge hemming
-us in with 3000-foot walls from which there was no escape. They were
-about a fourth of a mile apart at the top. A boat at the foot of one
-of these walls was merely an atom. The total depth of the canyon was
-close to 4500 feet. There is nothing on earth to which this gorge can
-be compared. Storm-clouds lowered into the chasm in the early morning.
-The sky was overcast and threatening. We were travelling directly west
-again, and no sunlight entered here, even when the sun shone. The
-walls had lost their brighter reds, and what colour they had was dark
-and sombre, a dirty brown and dark green predominating. The mythology
-of the ancients, with their Inferno and their River Styx, could hardly
-conjure anything more supernatural or impressive than this gloomy
-gorge.
-
-There were a few bad rapids. One or two had no shore, others had an
-inclination to run under one wall and had to be run very carefully. If
-we could not get down alongside of a rapid, we could usually climb out
-on the walls at the head of the rapid and look it over from that
-vantage point. The one who climbed out would signal directions to the
-others, who would run it at once, and continue on to the next rapid.
-They would have its course figured out when the last boat arrived.
-
-One canyon entered from the left, level on the bottom, and about one
-hundred feet wide; it might be a means of outlet from this canyon, but
-it is doubtful, for the marble has a way of ending abruptly and
-dropping sheer, with a polished surface that is impossible to climb.
-
-New Year's Eve was spent in this section. The camp was exceptionally
-good. A square-sided, oblong section of rock about fifty feet long had
-fallen forward from the base of the cliff. This left a cave-like
-opening which was closed at one end with our dark-room tent. High
-water had placed a sandy floor, now thoroughly dry, in the bottom.
-Under the circumstances we could hardly ask for anything better. Of
-driftwood there was none, and our camp-fires were made of mesquite
-which grew in ledges in the rocks; in one case gathered with a great
-deal of labour on the shore opposite our camp, and ferried across on
-our boats. If a suitable camp was found after 3.30 P.M., we kept it,
-rather than run the risk of not finding another until after dark.
-
-Another day, January 1, 1912, brought us to the end of this gorge and
-into a wider and more open canyon, with the country above covered with
-volcanic peaks and cinder cones. Blow-holes had broken through the
-canyon walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of lava
-down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with several hundred
-feet of lava. This condition extended down the canyon for twenty miles
-or more. Judging by the amount of lava the eruption must have
-continued for a great while. Could one imagine a more wonderful
-sight--the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood from above! What
-explosions and rending of rocks there must have been when the two
-elements met. The river would be backed up for a hundred miles! Each
-would be shoved on from behind! There was no escape! They must fight
-it out until one or the other conquered. But the fire could not keep
-up forever, and, though triumphant for a period, it finally succumbed,
-and the stream proceeded to cut down to the original level.
-
-Two miles below the first lava flow we saw what we took to be smoke
-and hurried down wondering if we would find a prospector or a cattle
-rustler. We agreed, if it was the latter, to let them off if they
-would share with us. But the smoke turned out to be warm springs, one
-of them making quite a stream which fell twenty feet into the river.
-Here in the river was a cataract, called Lava Falls, so filled with
-jagged pieces of the black rock that a portage was advisable. The
-weather had not moderated any in the last week, and we were in the
-water a great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks at
-the edge of the rapids. We would work in the water until numbed with
-the cold, then would go down to the warm springs and thaw out for a
-while. This was a little quicker than standing by the fire, but the
-relief was only temporary. This portage was finished the next morning.
-
-Another portage was made this same day, and the wide canyon where
-Major Powell found some Indian gardens was passed in the afternoon.
-The Indians were not at home when the Major called. His party felt
-they were justified in helping themselves to some pumpkins or squash,
-for their supplies were very low, and they could not go out to a
-settlement--as we expected to do in a day or two--and replenish them.
-
-We found the fish would not bite, just as our friend, the miner, had
-said, but we did succeed in landing a fourteen-pound salmon, in one of
-the deep pools not many miles from this point, and it was served up in
-steaks the next day. If our method of securing the salmon was
-unsportsmanlike, we excused ourselves for the methods used, just as
-Major Powell justified his appropriation of the Indians' squash. If
-that fish was ever needed, it was then, and it was a most welcome
-addition to our rapidly disappearing stock of provisions. We were only
-sorry we had not taken more "bait."
-
-The next day we did see a camp-fire, and on climbing the shore, found
-a little old prospector, clad in tattered garments, sitting in a
-little dugout about five feet square which he had shovelled out of the
-sand. He had roofed it with mesquite and an old blanket. A rapid, just
-below, made so much noise that he did not hear us until we were before
-his door. He looked at the rubber coats and the life-preservers, then
-said, with a matter-of-fact drawl, "Well, you fellows must have come
-by the river!" After talking awhile he asked: "What do you call
-yourselves?" This question would identify him as an old-time Westerner
-if we did not already know it. At one time it was not considered
-discreet to ask any one in these parts what their name was, or where
-they were from. He gave us a great deal of information about the
-country, and said that Diamond Creek was about six miles below. He had
-come across from Diamond Creek by a trail over a thousand foot ridge,
-with a burro and a pack mule, a month before. He had just been out
-near the top on the opposite side, doing some assessment work on some
-copper claims, crossing the river on a raft, and stated that on a
-previous occasion he had been drawn over the rapid, but got out.
-
-When he learned that we had come through Utah, he stated that he
-belonged near Vernal, and had once been upset in the upper canyons,
-about twenty years before. He proved to be the Snyder of whom we had
-heard at Linwood, and also from the Chews, who had given him a horse
-so he could get out over the mountains. Yet here was, a thousand miles
-below, cheerful as a cricket, and sure that a few months at the most
-would bring him unlimited wealth. He asked us to "share his chuck"
-with him, but we could see nothing but a very little flour, and a
-little bacon, so pleaded haste and pushed on for Diamond Creek.
-
-The mouth of this canyon did not look unlike others we had seen in
-this section, and one could easily pass it without knowing that it ran
-back with a gentle slope for twenty miles, and that a wagon road came
-down close to the river. It contained a small, clear stream. The
-original tourist camp in the Grand Canyon was located up this canyon.
-We packed all our plates and films, ready to take them out. The
-supplies left in the boats when we went out the next morning were:
-
-     5 pounds of flour, partly wet and crusted.
-     2 pounds mildewed Cream of Wheat.
-     3 or 4 cans (rusty) of dried beef.
-     Less than one pound of sugar.
-
-We carried a lunch out with us. This was running a little too close
-for comfort.
-
-The mouth of Diamond Creek Canyon was covered with a growth of large
-mesquite trees. Cattle trails wound through this thorny thicket down
-to the river's edge. The trees thinned out a short distance back, and
-the canyon widened as it receded from the river. A half mile back from
-the river was the old slab building that had served as headquarters
-for the campers. Here the canyon divided, one containing the small
-stream heading in the high walls to the southeast; while the other
-branch ran directly south, heading near the railroad at the little
-flag-station of Peach Springs, twenty-three miles distant.
-It was flat-bottomed, growing wider and more valley-like with every
-mile, but not especially interesting to one who had seen the glory of
-all the canyons. Floods had spoiled what had once been a very passable
-stage road, dropping 4000 feet in twenty miles, down to the very
-depths of the Grand Canyon. Some cattle, driven down by the snows,
-were sunning themselves near the building. Our appearance filled them
-with alarm, and they "high tailed it" to use a cattle man's
-expression, scampering up the rocky slopes.
-
-A deer's track was seen in a snow-drift away from the river. On the
-sloping walls in the more open sections of this valley grew the
-stubby-thorned chaparral. The hackberry and the first specimens of the
-palo verde were found in this vicinity. The mesquite trees seen at the
-mouth of the canyon were real trees--about the size of a large apple
-tree--not the small bushes we had seen at the Little Colorado. All the
-growth was changing as we neared the lower altitudes and the mouth of
-the Grand Canyon, being that of the hot desert, which had found this
-artery or avenue leading to the heart of the rocky plateaus and had
-pushed its way into this foreign land.
-
-Even the animal life of the desert has followed this same road.
-Occasional Gila monsters, which are supposed to belong to the hot
-desert close to the Mexico line, have been found at Diamond Creek, and
-lizards of the Mojave Desert have been seen as far north as the foot
-of Bright Angel Trail.
-
-But we saw little animal life at this time. There were occasional
-otters disporting themselves near our boats, in one instance unafraid,
-in another raising a gray-bearded head near our boat with a startled
-look in his eyes. Then he turned and began to swim on the surface
-until our laughter caused him to dive. Tracks of the civet-cat or the
-ring-tailed cat--that large-eyed and large-eared animal, somewhat like
-a raccoon and much resembling a weasel--were often seen along the
-shores. The gray fox, the wild-cat, and the coyote, all natives of
-this land, kept to the higher pinon-covered hills. The beaver seldom
-penetrates into the deep canyons because of the lack of vegetation,
-but is found in all sections in the open country from the headwaters
-to the delta in Mexico.
-
-We went out by this canyon on January the 5th, and returned Sunday,
-January the 8th, bringing enough provisions to last us to the end of
-the big canyon. We imagined we would have no trouble getting what we
-needed in the open country below that. We sent some telegrams and
-received encouraging answers to them before returning. With us were
-two brothers, John and Will Nelson, cattle men who had given us a
-cattle man's welcome when we arrived at Peach Springs. There was no
-store at Peach Springs, and they supplied us with the provisions that
-we brought back. They drove a wagon for about half the distance, then
-the roads became impassable, so they unhitched and packed their
-bedding and our provisions in to the river. The Nelsons were anxious
-to see us run a rapid or two.
-
-We found the nights to be just as cold on top as they ever get in this
-section--a little below zero--although the midday sun was warm enough
-to melt the snow and make it slushy. I arrived at the river with my
-feet so swollen that I had difficulty in walking, a condition brought
-on by a previous freezing they had received, being wet continually by
-the icy water in my boat--which was leaking badly since we left Bright
-Angel--and the walk out through the slush. I was glad there was little
-walking to do when once at the river, and changed my shoes for
-arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.
-
-On the upper part of our trip there were occasional days when Emery
-was not feeling his best, while I had been most fortunate and had
-little complaint to make; now things seemed to be reversed. Emery, and
-Bert too, were having the time of their lives, while I was "getting
-mine" in no small doses.[6]
-
-We had always imagined that the Grand Canyon lost its depth and
-impressiveness below Diamond Creek. We were to learn our mistake. The
-colour was missing, that was true, for the marble and sandstone walls
-were brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones of
-the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still the Grand Canyon.
-We were in the granite again--granite just as deep as any we had seen
-above, it may have been a little deeper, and in most cases it was very
-sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and sandstone rose
-above that, just as they had above Kanab Canyon. The light-coloured
-walls could not be seen.
-
-Many of the rapids of this lower section were just as bad as any we
-had gone over; one or two have been considered worse by different
-parties. Two hours after leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a rapid
-that made us catch our breath. It was in two sections--the lower one
-so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat. The upper part
-fell about twenty feet we should judge and was bad enough. It was a
-question if we could run this and keep from going over the lower part!
-If we made a portage, our boats would have to be taken three or four
-hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid was too strong to
-line a boat down. We concluded to risk running the first part. Bert
-climbed to the head of the second section of the rapid, where a
-projecting point of granite narrowed the stream, and formed a quiet
-eddy just above the foaming plunge. If we could keep out of the centre
-and land here we would be safe. Our shoes were removed, our trousers
-were rolled to our knees and we removed our coats. If we had to swim
-there, we were going to be prepared. The life-preservers were well
-inflated, and tied; then we made the plunge, Emery taking the lead, I
-following close behind. Our plan was to keep as near the shore as
-possible. Once I thought it was all over when I saw the _Edith_ pulled
-directly for a rock in spite of all Emery could do to pull away.
-Nothing but a rebounding wave saved him. I went through the same
-experience. Several times we were threatened with an upset, but we
-landed in safety. The portage was short and easy. Flat granite rocks
-were covered with a thin coat of ice. The boats were unloaded and slid
-across, then dropped below the projecting rock. The _Defiance_ skidded
-less than two feet and struck a projecting knob of rock the size of a
-goose egg. It punctured the side close to the stern, fortunately above
-the water line, and the wood was not entirely broken away.
-
-Two miles below this we found another bad one. This was lined while
-Bert got supper up in a little sloping canyon; about as uncomfortable
-a camp as we had found. Many of the rapids run the next day were
-violent. The river seemed to be trying to make up for lost time. We
-passed a canyon coming from the south containing two streams, one
-clear, and one muddy. The narrowest place we had seen on the river was
-a rapid run this day, not over forty feet wide. Evening brought us to
-a rapid with a lateral canyon coming in from each side, that on the
-right containing a muddy stream. The walls were sheer and jagged close
-to the rapid, with a break on the rugged slopes here and there. A
-sloping rock in the middle of the stream could be seen in the third
-section of the rapid. This was Separation Rapid, the point where the
-two Howland brothers and Dunn parted company with Major Powell and his
-party.
-
-From our camp at the left side we could easily figure out a way to the
-upper plateau. Above that they would have a difficult climb as far as
-we could tell. That they did reach the top is well known. They met a
-tragic fate. The second day after getting out they were killed by some
-Indians--the Shewits Utes--who had treated them hospitably at first
-and provided them with something to eat. That night a visiting Indian
-brought a tale of depredations committed by some miners against
-another section of their tribe. These men were believed to be the
-guilty parties, and they were ambushed the next morning. Their fate
-remained a mystery for a year; then a Ute was seen with a watch
-belonging to one of the men. Later a Mormon who had a great deal of
-influence with the Indians got their story from them, and reported to
-Major Powell what he had learned. It was a deplorable and a tragic
-ending to what otherwise was one of the most successful, daring, and
-momentous explorations ever undertaken on this continent.
-
-We find there is a current belief that it was cowardice and fear of
-this one rapid that caused these men to separate from the party. The
-more one hears of this separation, the more it seems that it was a
-difference of opinion on many matters, and not this one rapid, that
-caused them to leave. These men had been trappers and hunters, one
-might say pioneers, and one had been with Major Powell before the
-river exploration. They had gone through all the canyons, and had come
-through this far without a fatality. They had seen a great many rapids
-nearly as bad as this, and several that were worse, if one could judge
-by its nature when we found it. They were not being carried by others,
-but had charge of one boat. They did smash one boat in Disaster Rapid
-in Lodore Canyon, and at that time they claimed Major Powell gave them
-the wrong signal. This caused some feeling.
-
-At the time of the split, the food question was a serious one. There
-were short rations for a long time; in fact there was practically no
-food. After an observation, Major Powell informed them that they were
-within forty-five miles of the Virgin River, in a direct line. Much of
-the country between the end of the canyon and the Virgin River was
-open, a few Mormon settlements could be found up the Virgin Valley. He
-offered them half of the small stock of provisions, when they
-persisted in leaving, but they refused to take any provisions
-whatever, feeling sure that they could kill enough game to subsist on.
-This one instance would seem to be enough to clear them of the stigma
-of cowardice. The country on top was covered with volcanic cinders.
-There was little water to be found, and in many ways it was just as
-inhospitable as the canyon. The cook had a pan of biscuits, which he
-left on a rock for them, after the men had helped the party lift the
-boats over the rocks at the head of the rapid. After landing in safety
-around a bend which hid them from sight, the boating party fired their
-guns, hoping they would hear the report, and follow in the abandoned
-boat. It is doubtful if they could hear the sound of the guns, above
-the roar of the rapid. If they did, they paid no attention to it. The
-younger Howland wished to remain with the party, but threw his lot
-with his brother, when he withdrew.
-
-While these men did not have the Major's deep scientific interest in
-the successful completion of this exploration, they undoubtedly should
-have stayed with their leader, if their services were needed or
-desired. It is more than likely that they were insubordinate; they
-certainly made a misguided attempt, but in spite of these facts it
-scarcely seems just to brand them as cowards. Two days after they
-left, the boating party was camped at the end of the canyons.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIII
-
-
-
-THE LAST PORTAGE AND THE LAST RAPIDS
-
-The first section of Separation Rapid was run the first thing in the
-morning, a manoeuvre that was accomplished by starting on the left
-shore and crossing the swift centre clear to the other shore. This
-allowed us to reach some quiet water near a small deposit of rock and
-earth at the base of the sheer wall. Two feet of water would have
-covered this deposit; likewise two feet of water would have given us a
-clear channel over this second section. As it was, the rapid was
-rough, with many rocks very near the surface. Directly across from us,
-close to the left shore, was what looked like a ten-foot geyser, or
-fountain of water. This was caused by a rock in the path of a strong
-current rebounding from the shore. The water ran up on the side near
-the wall, then fell on all sides. It was seldom the water had force
-enough to carry to the top of a rock as large as that. This portage of
-the second section was one of the easiest we had made. By rolling a
-few large rocks around we could get a stream water across our small
-shore large enough to float an empty boat with a little help, so we
-lightened them of the cargo and floated them through our canal. While
-running the third section the _Edith_ was carried up on the sloping
-rock in the middle of the stream; she paused a moment, then came down
-like a shot and whirled around to the side without mishap. This made
-the thirteenth rapid in which both boats were lined or portaged. In
-three other rapids one boat was run through and one was portaged. Half
-of all these rapids were located in the Grand Canyon.
-
-All this time we were anxiously looking forward to a rapid which Mr.
-Stone had described as being the worst in the entire series, also the
-last rapid we would be likely to portage and had informed us that
-below this particular rapid everything could be run with little or no
-inspection. Naturally we were anxious to get that rapid behind us. It
-was described as being located below a small stream flowing from the
-south. The same rapid was described by Major Powell as having a bold,
-lava-capped escarpment at the head of the rapid, on the right. We had
-not seen any lava since leaving Diamond Creek, and an entry in my
-notes reads, "we have gone over Stone's 'big rapid' three times and it
-is still ahead of us." The knowledge that there was a big rapid in the
-indefinite somewhere that was likely to cause us trouble seemed to
-give us more anxious moments than the many unmentioned rapids we were
-finding all this time. We wondered how high the escarpment was, and if
-we could take our boats over its top. We tried to convince ourselves
-that it was behind us, although sure that it could not be. But the
-absence of lava puzzled us. After one "bad" rapid and several "good"
-rapids we came to a sharp turn in the canyon. Emery was ahead and
-called back, "I see a little stream"; Bert joined with "I see the
-lava"; and the "Bold Escarpment Rapid," as we had been calling it for
-some time, was before us. It was more than a nasty rapid, it was a
-cataract!
-
-What a din that water sent up! We had to yell to make ourselves heard.
-The air vibrated with the impact of water against rock. The rapid was
-nearly half a mile long. There were two sections near its head
-staggered with great rocks, forty of them, just above or slightly
-submerged under the surface of the water. Our low stage of water
-helped us, so that we did not have to line the boats from the ledge,
-eighty feet above the water, as others had done. The rapid broke just
-below the lower end of the sheer rock, which extended twenty feet
-beyond the irregular shore. The _Edith_ went first, headed upstream,
-at a slight angle nearly touching the wall, dropping a few inches
-between each restraining stroke of the oars. Bert crouched on the bow,
-ready to spring with the rope, as soon as Emery passed the wall and
-headed her in below the wall. Jumping to the shore, he took a snub
-around a boulder and kept her from being dragged into the rapid. Then
-they both caught the _Defiance_ as she swung in below the rock, and
-half the battle was won before we tackled the rapid.
-
-Our days were short, and we did not take the boats down until the next
-day; but we did carry much of the camp material and cargo halfway down
-over ledges a hundred feet above the river. For a bad rapid we were
-very fortunate in getting past it as easily as we did. Logs were laid
-over rocks, the boats were skidded over them about their own length
-and dropped in again. Logs and boats were lined down in the swift, but
-less riotous water, to the next barrier, which was more difficult. A
-ten-foot rounded boulder lay close to the shore, with smaller rocks,
-smooth and ice-filmed, scattered between. Powerful currents swirled
-between these rocks and disappeared under two others, wedged closely
-together on top. Three times the logs were snatched from our grasp as
-we tried to bridge them across this current, and they vanished in the
-foam, to shoot out end first, twenty feet below and race away on the
-leaping water. A boat would be smashed to kindling-wood if once
-carried under there. At last we got our logs wedged, and an hour of
-tugging, in which only two men could take part at the same time,
-landed both boats in safety below this barrier. We shot the remainder
-of the rapid on water so swift that the oars were snatched from our
-hands if we tried to do more than keep the boats straight with the
-current. That rapid was no longer the "Bold Escarpment," but the "Last
-Portage" instead, and it was behind us.
-
-The afternoon was half gone when we made ready pull away from the Last
-Portage. There were other rapids, but scarcely a pause was made in our
-two-hour run, and we camped away from the roar of water. The canyon
-was widening out a little at a time; the granite disappeared in the
-following day's run, at noon. Grass-covered slopes, with seeping
-mineral springs, took the place of precipitous walls; they dropped to
-2500 feet in height; numerous side canyons cut the walls in regular
-sections like gigantic city blocks, instead of an unbroken avenue.
-Small rapids continued to appear, there were a few small islands, and
-divided currents, so shallow they sometimes kept us guessing which one
-to take, but we continued to run them all without a pause. We would
-have run out of the canyon that day but for one thing. Five
-mountain-sheep were seen from our boats in one of the sloping grassy
-meadows above the river. We landed below, carried our cameras back,
-and spent half an hour in trying to see them again, but they had taken
-alarm.
-
-Placer claim locations and fresh burro tracks were seen in the sand at
-our last Grand Canyon camp, and a half mile below us we could see out
-into open country. We found the walls, or the end of the table-land,
-to be about two thousand feet high, with the canyon emerging at a
-sharp angle so that a narrow ridge, or "hogs-back" lay on the left
-side of the stream. Once out in the open the walls were seen to be
-quite steep, but could be climbed to the top almost any place without
-trouble. Saturday, January the 13th, we were out of the canyon at
-last, and the towering walls, now friendly, now menacing, were behind
-us. Three hundred and sixty-five large rapids, and nearly twice as
-many small rapids, were behind us and the dream of ten years was an
-accomplished fact. But best of all, there were no tragedies or
-fatalities to record. Perhaps we did look a little the worse for wear,
-but a few days away from the river would repair all that. The boats
-had a bump here and there, besides the one big patch on the _Edith_; a
-little mending and a little caulking would put both the _Edith_ and
-_Defiance_ in first-class condition.
-
-There is little of interest to record of our 175-mile run to Needles,
-California. It was a land of desolation--an extension of the Mojave
-Desert on the south, and the alkaline flats and mineral mountains of
-Nevada on the north, of Death Valley and the Funeral Mountains of
-California to the northwest--a burned-out land of grim-looking
-mountains extending north and south across our way; a dried-out,
-washed-out, and wind-swept land of extensive flats and arroyos; a land
-of rock and gravel cemented in marls and clay; ungraced with any but
-the desert plants,--cactus and thorny shrubs,--with little that was
-pleasing or attractive. A desert land it is true, but needing only the
-magic touch of water to transform much of it into a garden spot. Even
-as it was, a few months later it would be covered with the flaming
-blossoms of the desert growth, which seem to try to make amends in one
-or two short months for nearly a year of desolation.
-
-A wash ran along the base of the plateau from which we had emerged. An
-abandoned road and ferry showed that this had once been a
-well-travelled route. The stream had a good current and we pulled
-away, only stopping once to see the last of our plateau before a turn
-and deepening banks hid it from view. We wondered if the water ever
-dropped in a precipitous fall over the face of the wall and worked
-back, a little every year, as it does at Niagara. We could hardly
-doubt that there were some such falls back in the dim past when these
-canyons were being carved.
-
-In the middle of the afternoon we passed a ranch or a house with a
-little garden, occupied by two miners, who hailed us from the shore. A
-half-mile below was the Scanlon Ferry, a binding tie between Arizona,
-on the south and what was now Nevada, on the north, for we had reached
-the boundary line shortly after emerging from the canyon. We still
-travelled nearly directly west. The ferry was in charge of a
-Cornishman who also had as pretty a little ranch as one could expect
-to find in such an unlikely place. A purling stream of water, piped
-from somewhere up in the hills, had caused the transformation. The
-ranch was very homey with cattle and horses, sheep and hogs, dogs and
-cats, all sleek and contented-looking. The garden proved that this
-country had a warm climate, although we were not suffering from heat
-at that time. An effort was being made to grow some orange trees, but
-with little promise of success; there were fig trees and date-palms,
-with frozen dates hanging on the branches, one effect of the coldest
-winter they had seen in this section.
-
-The rancher told us he could not sell us anything that had to be
-brought in, for it was seventy miles to the railroad, but we could
-look over such supplies as he had. It ended by his selling us a
-chicken, two dozen eggs, five pounds of honey, and ten pounds of
-flour,--all for $2.50. We did not leave until the next morning, then
-bought another jar of honey, for we had no sugar, and two-thirds of
-the first jar was eaten before we left the ferry.
-
-We pulled away in such a hurry the next morning that we forgot an axe
-that had been carried with us for the entire journey. A five-hour run
-brought us to the mouth of the Virgin River, a sand-bar a mile wide,
-and with a red-coloured stream little larger than Cataract Creek
-winding through it. We had once seen this stream near its head waters,
-a beautiful mountain creek, that seemed to bear no relation to this
-repulsive-looking stream that entered from the north. A large,
-flat-topped, adobe building, apparently deserted, stood off at one
-side of the stream. This was the head of navigation for flat-bottomed
-steamboats that once plied between here and the towns on the lower end
-of the river. They carried supplies for small mines scattered through
-the mountains and took out cargoes of ore, and of rock salt which was
-mined back in Nevada.
-
-It was here at the Virgin River that Major Powell concluded his
-original voyage of exploration. Some of his men took the boats on down
-to Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles; afterwards two of the party
-continued on to the Gulf. The country below the Virgin River had been
-explored by several parties, but previous to this time nothing
-definite was known of the gorges until this exploration by this most
-remarkable man. The difficulties of this hazardous trip were increased
-for him by the fact that he had lost an arm in the Civil War.
-
-It is usually taken for granted that the United States government was
-back of this exploration. This was true of the second expedition, but
-not of the first. Major Powell was aided to a certain extent by the
-State College of Illinois, otherwise he bore all the expense himself.
-We received $10,000 from the government to apply on the expenses of
-the second trip.
-
-We felt that we had some reason to feel a justifiable pride for having
-duplicated, in some ways, this arduous journey. It was impossible for
-us to do more than guess what must have been the feelings and
-anxieties of this explorer. Added to the fact that we had boats,
-tested and constructed to meet the requirements of the river, and the
-benefit of others' experiences, was a knowledge that we were not
-likely to be precipitated over a waterfall, or if we lost everything
-and succeeded in climbing out, that there were a few ranches and
-distant settlements scattered through the country.
-
-But we had traversed the same river and the same canyons which change
-but little from year to year, and had succeeded beyond our fondest
-hopes in having accomplished what we set out to do.
-
-The Black Mountains, dark and forbidding, composed of a hard rock
-which gave a metallic clink, and decorated with large spots of white,
-yellow, vermilion, and purple deposits of volcanic ashes, were entered
-this afternoon. The peaks were about a thousand feet high. The passage
-between is known as Boulder Canyon. Here we met two miners at work on
-a tunnel, or drift, who informed us that it was about forty miles to
-Las Vegas, Nevada, and that it was only twenty-five miles from the
-mouth of Las Vegas Wash, farther down the river, to this same town and
-the railroad.
-
-Fort Callville--an abandoned rock building, constructed by the
-directions of Brigham Young, without windows or roof, and surrounded
-by stone corrals--was passed the next day. At Las Vegas Wash the river
-turned at right angles, going directly south, holding with very little
-deviation to this general direction until it empties into the Gulf of
-California nearly five hundred miles away. The river seemed to be
-growing smaller as we got out in the open country. Like all Western
-rivers, when unprotected by canyons, it was sinking in the sand.
-Sand-bars impeded our progress at such places as the mouth of the
-Wash. But we had a good current, without rapids in Black Canyon, which
-came shortly below, and mile after mile was put behind us before we
-camped for the night.
-
-An old stamp-mill, closed for the time, but in charge of three men who
-were making preparations to resume work, was passed the next day. They
-had telephone communication with Searchlight, Nevada, twenty odd miles
-away, and we sent out some telegrams in that way. More sand-bars were
-encountered the next day, and ranches began to appear on both sides of
-the river. We had difficulty on some of these bars. In places the
-river bed was a mile wide, with stagnant pools above the sand, and
-with one deep channel twisting between. At Fort Mojave, now an Indian
-school and agency, we telephoned to some friends in Needles, as we had
-promised to do, telling them we would arrive about noon of the
-following day. We made a mistake in not camping at the high ground by
-the "fort" that night, for just below the river widened again and the
-channel turned out in the centre. It was getting dark and we had
-entered this before noticing which way it turned, and had a hard pull
-back to the shore, for we had no desire to camp out there in the
-quicksand. The shore was little more desirable. It was a marsh,
-covered with a growth of flags and tules but with the ground frozen
-enough so that we did not sink. Our last camp--No. 76--was made in
-this marsh. There we spent the night, hidden like hunted savages in
-the cane-brake, while an Indian brass band played some very good music
-for an officers' ball, less than half a mile away.
-
-We were up and away with the sun the next morning. On nearing Needles,
-a friend met us on the outskirts of the town and informed us that they
-had arranged what he called an official landing and reception. At his
-request we deferred going down at once, but busied ourselves instead
-at packing our cargo, ready for shipping. Our friend had secured the
-services of a motion-picture operator and our own camera was sent down
-to make a picture of the landing, which was made as he had arranged.
-
-We landed in Needles January 18, 1912; one month from the time of our
-start from Bright Angel Trail, with a total of one hundred and one
-days spent along the river. In that time our camps had been changed
-seventy-six times.
-
-Our two boats, highly prized as souvenirs of our twelve hundred mile
-trip, and which had carried us through three hundred and sixty-five
-big rapids, over a total descent of more than five thousand feet, were
-loaded on cars ready for shipment; the _Edith_ to Los Angeles, the
-_Defiance_ to the Grand Canyon.
-
-Among other mail awaiting us was the following letter, bearing the
-postmark of Hite, Utah:
-
-     "KOLB BROS.,
-
-     "DEAR FRIENDS:
-
-     "Well I got here at last after seventeen days in Cataract
-     Canyon. The old boat will stand a little quiet water but
-     will never go through another rapid. I certainly played
-     'ring-a-round' some of those rocks in Cataract Canyon; I
-     tried every scheme I had ever heard of, and some that were
-     never thought of before. At the last rapid in Cataract I
-     carried all my stuff over the cliff, then tried to line the
-     boat from the narrow ledge. The boat jerked me into the
-     river, but I did not lose my hold on the chain and climbed
-     on board. I had no oars, but managed to get through without
-     striking any rocks, and landed a mile and a half below the
-     supplies. I hope the 'movies' are good.[7]
-
-     "Sincerely yours,
-
-     "CHAS. SMITH."
-
-
-
-
-CONCLUSION. HOW I WENT TO MEXICO
-
-
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIV
-
-
-
-ON THE CREST OF A FLOOD
-
-A westward-bound train was bearing me across the Mojave Desert one day
-in May. In a few swiftly passing hours we had made a six-thousand foot
-descent from the plateau with its fir and aspen-covered mountain, its
-cedar and pinon-clothed foot-hills, and its extensive forests of
-yellow pine. Crimson and yellow-flowered cactus, sage and chaparral,
-succeeded the pines. The cool mountains had given way to burned-out,
-umber-coloured hills, rock-ribbed arroyos, and seemingly endless
-desert; and the sun was growing hotter every minute.
-
-If the heat continued to increase, I doubted if I would care to take a
-half-planned Colorado River trip down to the Gulf. Visions of the
-California beaches, of fishing at Catalina and of horseback rides over
-the Sierra's trails, nearly unsettled my determination to stop at
-Needles, on the California side of the river. This was my vacation!
-Why undergo all the discomfort of a voyage on a desert stream, when
-the pleasures and comforts of the Pacific beckoned? One thing was
-sure, if I was not successful in securing a boat at Needles, the very
-next train would find me on board, bound for the Western Slope. By
-mid-afternoon the chaparral had disappeared and only the cactus
-remained--the ocotilla, covered with a million flowers, wave upon wave
-of crimson flame, against the yellow earth. Violet-veiled mountains
-appeared in the west, marking the southern trend of the Colorado. The
-air was suffocating. The train-created wind was like a blast from a
-furnace; yet with the electric fans whirring, with blinds drawn and
-windows closed to keep the withering air _out_, it seemed a little
-less uncomfortable in the car, in spite of the unvitalized air, than
-under the scorching sun.
-
-We were beside the Colorado at last. I had a good view of the stream
-below, as we crossed the bridge--the Colorado in flood, muddy,
-turbulent, sweeping onward like an affrighted thing,--repulsive, yet
-with a fascination for me, born of an intimate acquaintance with the
-dangers of this stream. The river had called again! The heat was
-forgotten, the visions of the coast faded, for me the train could not
-reach Needles, ten miles up the river, quickly enough.
-
-With my brother, I had followed this stream down to Needles, through a
-thousand miles of canyon. I had seen how it carved its way through the
-mountains, carrying them on, in solution, toward the ocean. At last I
-would see what became of all these misplaced mountains. I would see
-the tidal bore as it swept in from the Gulf. I had heard there were
-wild hogs which burrowed through the cane-brake. It may be that I
-would learn of a vessel at some port down on the Mexican coast, which
-I might reach and which would take me around the Lower California
-Peninsula. I felt sure there was such a port. No doubt I could have
-found books to tell me exactly what I would see, but too much
-information would spoil all the romance of such an adventure. It was
-all very alluring. With the spring flood on, the river could not help
-but be interesting and exciting, a pretty good imitation of the
-rapids, perhaps. If I could only secure a boat!
-
-Half an hour later I was meeting old acquaintances about the hotel,
-connected with the station. The genial hotel manager, with the Irish
-name, was smilingly explaining to some newcomers that this was not
-hot; that "a dry heat at 110 degrees was not nearly as bad as 85
-degrees back in Chicago," "and as for heat," he continued, "why down
-in Yuma"--then he caught sight of me, with a grin on my face, and
-perhaps he remembered that I had heard him say the same thing two
-years before, when it was even hotter; and he came over with
-out-stretched hand,--calling me uncomplimentary names, under his
-breath, for spoiling the effect of his explanation; all which was
-belied by his welcome. It takes an Irishman to run a big hotel in the
-middle of the desert.
-
-A few inquiries brought out the information that I was not likely to
-get a boat. The stores did not keep them. I should have given my order
-two weeks before to an Indian who built boats to order at $2.00 a
-foot. This was a new one on me. Suppose a fellow wanted--well say,
-about $15.00 worth. It would look something like a tub, wouldn't it?
-Perhaps it was to be the coast, for me, after all.
-
-The Colorado River in flood is a terrible stream. Unlike the Eastern
-rivers, there are no populous cities--with apologies to Needles and
-Yuma--along its shores, to be inundated with the floods. Unlike the
-rivers of the South, few great agricultural districts spread across
-its bottoms. Along the upper seven hundred miles there are not a
-half-dozen ranches with twenty-five acres under cultivation. But if
-destructive power and untamed energy are terrible, the Colorado River,
-in flood, is a terrible stream.
-
-After changing into some comfortable clothes I sauntered past the
-railway machine shops down to the river, and up to where a fight was
-being waged to save the upper part of the town from being torn away by
-the flood. For a month past, car after car of rock had been dumped
-along the river bank, only to disappear in the quicksands; and as yet
-no bottom had been reached. Up to this point the fight was about
-equal. The flood would not reach its crest until two or three weeks
-later.
-
-Beyond a fisherman or two there were few men by the river. The workmen
-had finished their day's labour. A ferryman said that I might talk an
-Indian into selling his boat, but it was doubtful. My next job was to
-find such an Indian.
-
-A big, greasy Mojave buck lay on an uncovered, rusty bed spring, slung
-on a home-made frame, before his willow and adobe home, close to the
-Colorado River. In answer to my repeated question he uncoiled and
-stretched the full length of his six foot six couch, grunted a few
-words in his native tongue to other Indians without a glance in my
-direction, then indifferently closed his eyes again. A young Indian in
-semi-cowboy garb,--not omitting a gorgeous silk handkerchief about his
-neck,--jabbered awhile with some grinning squaws, then said in
-perfectly understandable English, "He will sell his boat for $18.00.
-It is worth $30.00." This was decisive for an Indian. It usually takes
-a half-day of bickering to get them to make any kind of a bargain. I
-told him I would take it in the morning.
-
-It was a well-constructed boat, almost new, built of inch pine,
-flat-bottomed, and otherwise quite similar in shape to the boats my
-brother and I had used on our twelve hundred mile journey through the
-canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers,--but without the graceful
-lines and swells that made those other boats so valuable to us in
-rapids. The boat was nearly new and well worth $30.00, as boat prices
-went in that town. Why he was willing to sell it for $18.00, or at the
-rate of $1.00 a foot, I could not imagine. It was the first bargain an
-Indian had ever offered me. But if I paid for it that evening, there
-were doubts in my mind if I should find it in the morning, so I
-delayed closing the bargain and went back again to inspect the boat.
-
-That evening I inquired among my acquaintances if there was any one
-who would care to accompany me. If so I would give them passage to
-Yuma, or to the Gulf of California in Mexico, if they wished it. But
-no one could go, or those who could, wouldn't. One would have thought
-from the stories with which I was regaled, that the rapids of the
-Grand Canyon were below Needles, and as for going to the Gulf, it was
-suicide. I was told of the outlaws along the border, of the firearms
-and opium smugglers, who shot first and questioned afterward, and of
-the insurrectos of Lower California. The river had no real outlet to
-the ocean, they said, since the break into Salton Sea, but spread over
-a cane-brake, thirty miles or more in width. Many people had gone into
-these swamps and never returned, whether lost in the jungles or killed
-by the Cocopah Indians, no one knew. They simply disappeared. It was
-all very alluring.
-
-My preparations, the next day, were few. I had included a sleeping bag
-with my baggage. It would come in equally handy whether I went down on
-the Colorado or up into the Coast Range. A frying-pan, a coffee-pot a
-few metal dishes and provisions for a week were all I needed. Some one
-suggested some bent poles, and a cover, such as are used on wagons to
-keep off the sun. This seemed like a good idea; and I hunted up a
-carpenter who did odd jobs. He did not have such a one, but he did
-have an old wagon-seat cover, which could be raised or dropped at
-will. This was even better, for sometimes hard winds sweep up the
-river. The cover was fastened to the sides of the boat. The boat,
-meanwhile, had been thoroughly scrubbed. It looked clean before, but I
-was not going to take any chances at carrying Indian live-stock along
-with his boat. My surplus baggage was sent on to Los Angeles, and
-twenty-four hours after I had landed in Needles, I was ready to
-embark.
-
-My experience in camping trips of various sorts has been that the
-start from headquarters occupies more time than any similar
-preparation. Once on the road, things naturally arrange themselves
-into some kind of a system, and an hour on the road in the evening
-means several hours gained the next morning. Added to this, there are
-always a number of loafers about railroad towns, and small things have
-a way of disappearing. With this in mind, I determined to make my
-start that evening, and at 7 P.M. on the 23d of May, 1913, I embarked
-on a six to eight mile an hour current, paced by cottonwood logs,
-carried down by the flood from the head waters in Wyoming, Utah, and
-Colorado.
-
-When sailing on the unruffled current one did not notice its
-swiftness--it sped so quietly yet at the same time with such deadly
-intent--until some half submerged cottonwood snags appeared, their
-jagged, broken limbs ploughing the stream exactly like the bow of a
-motor-driven boat, throwing two diverging lines of waves far down the
-stream. One would almost think the boat was motionless, it raced so
-smoothly,--and that the snags were tearing upstream as a river man had
-said, the day before, "like a dog with a bone in his teeth." A sunken
-stone-boat, with a cabin half submerged, seemed propelled by some
-unseen power and rapidly dwindled in the distance.
-
-So fascinating were these things that I forgot the approaching night.
-I first noticed it when the stream slackened its mad pace and spread
-over its banks into great wide marshes, in divided and subdivided
-channels and over submerged islands, with nothing but willow and fuzzy
-cattail tops to indicate that there was a bottom underneath. Here
-there was no place to camp had I wished to do so. Once I missed the
-main channel and had a difficult time in finding my way back in the
-dark. After two or three miles of this quiet current, the streams
-began to unite again, and the river regained its former speed. I was
-growing weary after the first excitement, and began to wish myself
-well out of it all and safely anchored to the shore. But I knew there
-was a level bank above the river close to the bridge, which would make
-a good camping place; so I rested on my oars facing down the stream
-with eyes and ears alert for the treacherous snags. Then the stars
-began to appear, one by one, lighting up the cloudless sky; a moist,
-tropical-like breeze moved up the stream, the channel narrowed and
-deepened, the snags vanished, and the stream increased its swiftness.
-
-And with eyes wide open, but unseeing, I dozed. It was the lights of a
-passenger train crossing the bridge, just a short distance away, that
-made me realize where I was. The train thundered into the darkness;
-but louder than the roar of the train was that of the water directly
-ahead, and hidden in the impenetrable shadow over on the right shore
-was a noise much like that made by a Grand Canyon rapid.
-
-Wide awake now, I pulled for the left, and after one or two attempts
-to land, I caught some willow tops and guided the boat to the raised
-bank. Beyond the willows was a higher ground, covered with a mesquite
-thicket, with cattle trails winding under the thorny trees. Here I
-unrolled my sleeping bag, then went up to interview the operator and
-the watchman, and to get a drink of clear water, for I had no desire
-to drink the liquid mud of the Colorado until it was necessary. In
-answer to a question I told them of my little ride. One of the men
-exclaimed, "You don't mean to say that you came down on the flood
-after dark!" On being informed that I had just arrived, he exclaimed:
-"Well I reckon you don't know what the Colorado is. It's a wonder this
-whirlpool didn't break you against the pier. You ought to have brought
-some one with you to see you drown!"
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXV
-
-
-
-FOUR DAYS TO YUMA
-
-Before sunrise the following morning, I had completed my few camp
-duties, finished my breakfast and dropped my boat into the whirlpool
-above the bridge. My two friends watched the manoeuvre as I pulled
-clear of the logs and the piers which caused the water to make such
-alarming sounds the night before; then they gave me a final word of
-caution, and the information that the Parker Bridge was sixty miles
-away and that Yuma was two hundred and fifty miles down the stream.
-They thought that I should reach Yuma in a week. It seemed but a few
-minutes until the bridge was a mile up the stream. Now I was truly
-embarked for the gulf.
-
-By the time I had reached the spire-like mountainous rocks a few miles
-below the bridge, which gave the town of Needles its name, the sun was
-well up and I was beginning to learn what desert heat was, although I
-had little time to think of it as I was kept so busy with my boat.
-Here, the stream which was spread a mile wide above, had choked down
-to two hundred feet; small violent whirlpools formed at the abrupt
-turns in this so-called canyon and the water tore from side to side.
-In one whirl my boat was twice carried around the circle into which I
-had allowed it to be caught, then shot out on the pounding flood. Soon
-the slag-like mountains were passed and the country began to spread,
-first in a high barren land, then with a bottom land running back from
-the river. The willow bushes changed to willow trees, tall and
-spindly, crowded in a thicket down to the river's edge. The Chemehuevi
-Indians have their reservation here. On rounding an abrupt turn I
-surprised two little naked children, fat as butterballs, dabbling in a
-mud puddle close to the stream. The sight, coupled with the
-tropical-like heat and the jungle, could well make one imagine he was
-in Africa or India, and that the little brown bodies were the
-"alligator bait" of which we read. Only the 'gators were missing. The
-unexpected sight of a boat and a white man trying to photograph them
-started them both into a frightened squall. Then an indignant mother
-appeared, staring at me as though she would like to know what I had
-done to her offspring. Farther along were other squaws, with red and
-blue lines pencilled on their childlike, contented faces, seated under
-the willows. Their cotton garments, of red and blue bandanna
-handkerchiefs sewed together, added a gay bit of colour to the scene.
-
-Below this were two or three cozy little ranch houses and a few
-scattered cattle ranches, with cattle browsing back in the trees. All
-this time it was getting hotter, and I was thankful for my sheltering
-cover. My lunch, prepared in the morning, was eaten as I drifted.
-Except in a few quiet stretches I did little rowing, just enough to
-keep the boat away from the overhanging banks and in the strong
-current.
-
-The bottom lands began to build up again with banks of gravel and
-clay, growing higher with every mile. The deciduous trees gave way to
-the desert growths: the cholla, "the shower of gold," and the palo
-verde and the other acacias. Here were the California or valley-quail;
-and lean, long-legged jack-rabbits. Here too were the coyotes, leaner
-than the rabbits, but efficient, shifty-eyed, and insolent. One could
-admire but could hardly respect them.
-
-I had entertained hopes of reaching Parker that evening, but supposed
-the hour would be late if I reached it at all. Imagine my surprise,
-then, when at half-past four I heard the whistle of a train, and
-another turn revealed the Parker bridge. I had been told by others
-that it had taken them three or four days to reach this point on a low
-stage of water. Evidently the high water is much better for rapid and
-interesting travel.
-
-Here at the bridge, which was a hundred feet above the river, was a
-dredge, and an old flat-bottomed steamboat, a relic of a few years
-past, before the government built the Laguna dam above Yuma, and
-condemned the Colorado as a navigable stream. Those were the days
-which the Colorado steamboat men recall with as much fond remembrance
-as the old-time boatmen of the Mississippi remember their palmy days.
-
-In spite of the fact that the boats were flat-bottomed and small, it
-was real steamboating of an exciting nature at least. At times they
-beat up against the current as far as the mouth of the Rio Virgin. In
-low water the channels shifted back and forth first choked with sand
-on one side of the stream, then on the other. While the total fall
-from Fort Mojave, a few miles above Needles, to the Gulf is only 525
-feet, considerable of that fall came in short sections, first with a
-swift descent, then in a quiet stretch. Even in the high-water stage I
-was finding some such places.
-
-Parker stood a mile back from the river, on top of the level gravelly
-earth which stretched for miles on either side of the river clear to
-the mountains. This earth and gravel mixture was so firmly packed that
-even the cactus had a scant foothold. The town interested me for one
-reason only, this being, that I could get my meals for the evening and
-the following morning, instead of having to cook them myself. After I
-had eaten them, however, there was a question in my mind if my own
-cooking, bad as it was, would not have answered the purpose just as
-well. The place was a new railroad town on an Indian reservation, a
-town of great expectations, somewhat deferred.
-
-It was not as interesting to me as my next stop at Ahrenburg, some
-fifty miles below Parker. This place while nothing but a collection of
-dilapidated adobe buildings, had an air of romance about it which was
-missing in the newer town. Ahrenburg had seen its day. Many years ago
-it was a busy mining camp, and the hope is entertained by the faithful
-who still reside in its picturesque adobe homes that it will come back
-with renewed vigour. Here at Ahrenburg I met a character who added
-greatly to the interest of my stay. He was a gigantic, raw-boned
-Frenchman, at that time engaged in the construction of a motor boat;
-but a miner, a sailor, and a soldier of fortune in many ways, one who
-had pried into many of the hidden corners of the country and had a
-graphic way of describing what he had seen. I was his guest until late
-that night, and was entertained royally on what humble fare he had to
-offer. We both intended to renew our acquaintance in the morning, but
-some prowling Mexicans near my boat, croaking frogs, and swarms of
-mosquitos gave me a restless night. With the first glimmer of daylight
-I was up, and half an hour later I was away on the flood.
-
-This was my big day. The current was better than much of that above; I
-was getting used to the heat, and, instead of idly drifting, I pulled
-steadily at the oars. The river twisted back and forth in great loops
-with the strong current, as is usual, always on the outside of the
-loops, close to the overhanging banks. I would keep my boat in this
-current, with a wary lookout over my shoulder for fallen trees and
-sudden turns, which had a way of appearing when least expected. At
-some such places the stream was engaged at undermining the banks which
-rose eight and ten feet above the water. Occasional sections,
-containing tons of earth and covered with tall, slender willow trees,
-would topple over, falling on the water with the roar of a cannon or a
-continued salute of cannons; for the falling, once started, quite
-often extended for half a mile down the stream. At one such place
-eighteen trees fell in three minutes, and it would be safe to say that
-a hundred trees were included in the extended fall. The trees, sixty
-feet high, resembled a field of gigantic grass or unripened grain; the
-river was a reaper, cutting it away at the roots. Over they tumbled to
-be buried in the stream; the water would swirl and boil, earth and
-trees would disappear; then the mass of leaf-covered timber, freed of
-the earth, would wash away to lodge on the first sand-bar, and the
-formation of a new island or a new shore would begin.
-
-Then again, the banks were barren, composed of gravel and clay,
-centuries older than the verdure-covered land, undisturbed, possibly,
-since some glacial period deposited it there. But a shifting of the
-channel directed the attack against these banks. Here the swift
-current would find a little irregularity on the surface and would
-begin its cutting. The sand-laden water bored exactly like an auger,
-in fast-cutting whirls. One such place I watched for a half-hour from
-the very beginning, until the undermined section, fourteen feet high,
-began to topple, and I pulled out to safety, but not far enough to
-escape a ducking in the resulting wave.
-
-Below this, instead of a firm earth, it was a loose sand and gravel
-mixture twenty feet above the river. Here for half a mile the entire
-bank was moving, slowly at the top, gathering speed at the bottom.
-While close to this I heard a peculiar hissing as of carbonated water
-all about me. At first I thought there were mineral springs
-underneath, but found the noise was caused by breaking air bubbles
-carried under the stream with the sands. All this day such phenomena
-continued, sliding sand-banks and tumbling jungles. In these latter
-places some cattle had suffered. Their trails ran parallel with the
-stream. No doubt they had one or two places where they drank cut down
-to the stream Knowing nothing of the cutting underneath, they had been
-precipitated into the flood, and now their carcasses were food for
-swarms of vultures gathered for an unholy feast.
-
-What powerful, graceful birds these scavengers are, stronger than the
-eagle even, tireless and seemingly motionless as they drift along
-searching every nook and cranny for their provender! But aside from a
-grudgingly given tribute of admiration for their power, one has about
-as much respect for them as for the equally graceful rattlesnake, that
-other product of nature which flourishes in this desert land.
-
-The bird life along this lower part of the river was wonderful in its
-variety. The birds of the desert mingled with those of the fertile
-lands. The song-birds vied with those of gorgeous plume. Water-birds
-disported themselves in the mud-banks and sloughs. The smaller birds
-seemed to pay little attention to the nearness of the hawks.
-Kingfisher perched on limbs overhanging the quiet pools, ready to drop
-at the faintest movement on the opaque water; the road-runner chased
-the festive lizard on the desert land back of the willows. Here also
-in the mesquite and giant cactus were thrush and Western meadow-larks
-and mocking-birds mimicking the call of the cat-bird. Down in the
-brush by the river was the happy little water-ousel, as cheerful in
-his way as the dumpy-built musical canyon wren. The Mexican crossbill
-appeared to have little fear of the migrating Northern shrike. There
-were warblers, cardinals, tanagers, waxwings, song-sparrows, and
-chickadees. Flitting droves of bush-tit dropped on to slender weeds,
-scarcely bending them, so light were they. Then in a minute they were
-gone. In the swamps or marshes were countless red-winged blackbirds.
-
-The most unobservant person could not help but see birds here. I had
-expected to find water-fowl, for the Colorado delta is their breeding
-place; but I little expected to find so many land birds in the trees
-along the river. Instead of having a lonesome trip, every minute was
-filled with something new, interesting, and beautiful and I was having
-the time of my life.
-
-I camped that night at Picachio,--meaning the Pocket,--eighty miles
-below Ahrenburg. This is still a mining district, but the pockets
-containing nuggets of gold which gave the place its name seem to have
-all been discovered at the time of the boom; the mining now done is in
-quartz ledges up on the sides of grim, mineral-stained hills. I was
-back in the land of rock again, a land showing the forces of nature in
-high points of foreign rock, shot up from beneath, penetrating the
-crust of the earth and in a few places emerging for a height of two
-hundred feet from the river itself, forming barren islands and great
-circling whirlpools, as large as that in the Niagara gorge, and I
-thought, for a while, almost as powerful. In one I attempted to keep
-to the short side of the river, but found it a difficult job, and one
-which took three times as long to accomplish as if I had allowed
-myself to be carried around the circle.
-
-Then the land became level again, and the Chocolate Mountains were
-seen to the west. A hard wind blew across the stream, so that I had to
-drop my sunshade to prevent being carried against the rocks. This day
-I passed a large irrigation canal leading off from the stream, the
-second such on the entire course of the Colorado. Here a friendly
-ranchman called to me from the shore and warned me of the Laguna dam
-some distance below. He said the water was backed up for three miles,
-so I would know when I was approaching it.
-
-In spite of this warning, I nearly came to grief at the dam. The wind
-had shifted until it blew directly down the stream. The river, nearly
-a mile wide, still ran with a powerful current; I ceased rowing and
-drifted down, over waves much like those one would find on a lake
-driven by a heavy wind. I saw some high poles and a heavy electric
-cable stretched across the stream, and concluded that this was the
-beginning of the dam. I began to look ahead for some sign of a barrier
-across the stream, far below, but I could see nothing of the kind;
-then as I neared the poles it suddenly dawned on me that there was no
-raised barrier which diverted all the water through a sluice, but a
-submerged dam, over which the flood poured, and that the poles were on
-that dam.
-
-My sail-like sunshade was dropped as quickly as I could do it, and,
-grabbing the oars, I began to pull for the California shore.
-
-It was fortunate for me that I happened to be comparatively near the
-shore when I began rowing. As it was, I landed below the diverting
-canal, and about a hundred yards above the dam. On examination the dam
-proved to be a slope about fifty feet long. A man in charge of the
-machinery controlling the gates told me that the dam lacked seven feet
-of being a mile wide, and that approximately seven feet of water was
-going over the entire dam.
-
-Great cement blocks and rocks had been dropped promiscuously below the
-dam to prevent it from being undermined. Even without the rocks it was
-doubtful if an uncovered boat could go through without upsetting. The
-great force of the water made a trough four or five feet lower than
-the river level, all water coming down the slope shooting underneath,
-while the river rolled back upstream. On two occasions boatmen had
-been carried over the dam. In each case the boat was wrecked, but the
-occupants were thrown out and escaped uninjured. I could not help but
-be amused, and feel a little uncomfortable too, when I saw how nearly
-I came to being wrecked here, after having escaped that fate in the
-rapids of the canyons.
-
-I ran my boat back to the diverting canal, then rowed down to the
-massive cement gates, which looked to me like a small replica of some
-of the locks on the Panama Canal. With the help of an Indian who was
-ready for a job my boat was taken out, rolled around the buildings on
-some sections of pipe, and slid over the bank into the canal below the
-gates.
-
-In spite of a desire to spend some time inspecting the machinery of
-this great work,--which, with the canal and other improvements, had
-cost the government over a million dollars--I immediately resumed my
-rowing. It was mid-afternoon, and measured by the canal, which was
-direct, it was twelve miles to Yuma. But I soon learned that great
-winding curves made it much farther by the river. In some cases it
-nearly doubled back on itself. The wind had shifted by this time and
-blew against me so hard that it was almost useless to attempt rowing.
-In another place there were no banks, and the water had spread for
-three miles in broken sloughs and around half-submerged islands, the
-one deep channel being lost in the maze of shallow ones. With these
-things to contend with it was dusk long before I neared the town, the
-twelve miles having stretched to twenty. Finally I saw a windmill
-partly submerged. Some distance away was a small ranch house also in
-the water. The house, with lights in the upper story, was a cheering
-sight; the windmill looked out of place in the midst of all this
-desolation of water. Soon other houses appeared with lights showing
-through the windows. Once I lost my way and spent a half hour in
-getting back to the right channel.
-
-Somewhere in the dark, I never knew just when, I passed the mouth of
-the Gila River. In a similar way in broad daylight I had passed the
-Bill Williams Fork above Ahrenburg.
-
-At last I neared the town. I could discern some buildings on top of a
-small hill, evidently one of the back streets of Yuma. After tying my
-boat, I hid my small load in some mesquite trees, then climbed the
-hill and passed between two peculiar stone houses dark as dungeons.
-They puzzled me from the outside, but when once past them, I was no
-longer in doubt. I had entered the open gateway leading to the
-courtyard of the Yuma penitentiary. No wonder the buildings looked
-like dungeons. This was a new experience for me, but somehow I had
-always imagined just how it would look. I was considering beating a
-retreat when a guard hailed me and asked me if I was not lost. With
-the assistance of the guard, I escaped from the pen and found my way
-to the streets of Yuma, just four days after leaving the Needles
-bridge.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVI
-
-
-
-ACROSS THE MEXICO BORDER
-
-"Mexico is a good place to keep away from just at present." This was
-the invariable answer to a few casual inquiries concerning what I
-would be likely to meet with in the way of difficulties, a possible
-companion for the voyage to the Gulf, and how one could get back when
-once there. I received little encouragement from the people of Yuma.
-The cautions came not from the timid who see danger in every rumour,
-but from the old steamboat captains, the miners, and prospectors who
-knew the country and had interests in mineral claims across the
-border. These claims they had lost in many cases because they had
-failed for the last two years to keep up their assessment work. There
-were vague suggestions of being stood up against an adobe wall with a
-row of "yaller bellies" in front, or being thrown into damp dungeons
-and held for a ransom.
-
-The steamboat men could give me little information about the river.
-The old channel had filled with silt, and the river was diverted into
-a roundabout course little more than a creek in width, then spread
-over whole delta. The widely spread water finally collected into an
-ancient course of the Colorado, known as the Hardy or False Colorado.
-As nearly as I could learn no one from Yuma had been through this new
-channel beyond a certain point called Volcanic Lake. Two or three
-parties had come back with stories of having attempted it, but found
-themselves in the middle of a cane-brake with insufficient water to
-float a boat. With a desire to be of real assistance to me, one old
-captain called a Yuma Indian into his office and asked him his
-opinion, suggesting that he might go along.
-
-"Mebbe so get lost in the trees, mebbe so get shot by the Cocopah,"
-the Indian replied as he shook his head.
-
-The captain laughed at the last and said that the Yuma and Cocopah
-Indians were not the best of friends, and accused each other of all
-sorts of things which neither had committed. Some Mexicans and certain
-outlawed whites who kept close to the border for different reasons,
-and the possibilities of bogging in a cane-brake were the only
-uncertainties. In so many words he advised me against going.
-
-Still I persevered. I had planned so long on completing my boating
-trip to the Gulf, that I disliked to abandon the idea altogether. I
-felt sure, with a flood on the Colorado, there would be some channel
-that a flat-bottomed boat could go through, when travelling with the
-current; but the return trip and the chances of being made a target
-for some hidden native who had lived on this unfriendly border and had
-as much reason for respecting some citizens of the United States as
-our own Indians had in the frontier days, caused me considerable
-concern. I knew it was customary everywhere to make much of the
-imaginary dangers, as we had found in our other journeys; but it is
-not difficult to discriminate between sound advice and the croakings
-which are based on lack of real information. I knew this was sound
-advice, and as usual I disliked to follow it. At last I got some
-encouragement. It came from a retired Wild West showman,--the real
-thing, one who knew the West from its early days. He laughed at the
-idea of danger and said I was not likely to find any one, even if I
-was anxious to do so, until I got to the La Bolso Ranch near the Gulf.
-They would be glad to see me. He thought it was likely to prove
-uninteresting unless I intended to hunt wild hogs, but that was
-useless without dogs, and I would have trouble getting a gun past the
-custom officers. His advice was to talk with the Mexican consul, as he
-might know some one who could bring me back by horseback.
-
-In the consul I found a young Spaniard, all affability, bows, and
-gestures; and without being conscious of it at first I too began
-making motions. He deplored my lack of knowledge of the Spanish
-language, laughed at any suggestion of trouble, as all trouble was in
-Eastern Sonora, he said, separated from the coast by two hundred miles
-of desert, and stated that the non-resident owner of the La Bolsa
-cattle ranch happened to be in the building at that moment. In a
-twinkling he had me before him and explained the situation. This
-gentleman, the owner of a 600,000-acre grant, and the fishing
-concession of the Gulf, stated that the ranch drove a team to Yuma
-once a week, that they would bring me back; in the interval I must
-consider myself the guest of the Rancho La Bolsa. The consul gave me a
-passport, and so it was all arranged.
-
-In spite of the consul's opinion, there were many whispered rumours of
-war, of silent automobiles loaded with firearms that stole out of town
-under cover of the night and returned in four days, and another of a
-river channel that could be followed and was followed, the start being
-made, not from Yuma, but from another border town farther west. A year
-before there had been an outbreak at this place of certain restless
-spirits,--some whites included,--and they went along the northern line
-of Mexico, sacking the ranches and terrorizing the people. The La
-Bolsa ranch was among those that suffered. The party contained some
-discharged vaqueros who were anxious to interview the ranch foreman,
-but fortunately for him he was absent. Then they turned south to
-Chihuahua and joined the army of Madero. War, to them, meant license
-to rob and kill. They were not insurrectos, but bandits, and this was
-the class that was most feared.
-
-Meanwhile I had not given up the idea of a possible companion. Before
-coming to Yuma I had entertained hopes of getting some one with a
-motor boat to take me down and back, but there were no motor boats, I
-found. The nearest approach to a power boat was an attempt that was
-being made to install the engine from a wrecked steam auto on a sort
-of flat-bottomed scow. I heard of this boat three or four times, and
-in each case the information was accompanied by a smile and some vague
-remarks about a "hybrid." I hunted up the owner,--the proprietor of a
-shooting gallery,--a man who had once had aspirations as a
-heavy-weight prize fighter, but had met with discouragement. So he had
-turned his activities to teaching the young idea how to
-shoot--especially the "Mexican idea" and those other border spirits
-who were itching for a scrap.
-
-The proprietor of the shooting gallery drove a thriving trade. Since
-he had abandoned his training he had taken on fat, and I found him to
-be a genial sort of giant who refused to concern himself with the
-serious side of life. Even a lacing he had received in San Francisco
-at the hands of a negro stevedore struck him as being humorous. He did
-not seem to have much more confidence in his "power boat" than the
-others, but said I might talk with the man who was putting it
-together, ending with the remark "Phillipps thinks he can make her
-run, and he has always talked of going to the Gulf."
-
-On investigation I found Al Phillipps was anxious to go to the Gulf,
-and would go along if I would wait until he got his boat in shape.
-This would take two days. Phillipps, as he told me himself, was a
-Jayhawker who had left the farm in Kansas and had gone to sea for two
-years. He was a cowboy, but had worked a year or two about mining
-engines. In Yuma he was a carpenter, but was anxious to leave and go
-prospecting along the Gulf. Phillipps and I were sure to have an
-interesting time. He spoke Spanish and did not fear any of the
-previously mentioned so-called dangers; he had heard of one party
-being carried out to sea when the tide rushed out of the river, but as
-we would have low tide he thought that, with caution, we could avoid
-that.
-
-At last all was ready for the momentous trial. The river bank was
-lined with a crowd of men who seemed to have plenty of leisure. Some
-long-haired Yuma Indians, and red and green turbaned Papagos, gathered
-in a group off a little to one side. A number of darkies were fishing
-for bullheads, and boys of three colors besides the Mexicans and a
-lone Chinaman clambered over the trees and the boats along the shore.
-
-It was a moment of suspense for Phillipps. His reputation as an
-engineer and a constructor of boats hung in the balance. He also had
-some original ideas about a rudder which had been incorporated in this
-boat. Now was his chance to test them out, and his hour of triumph if
-they worked.
-
-The test was a rigid one. The boat was to be turned upstream against
-an eight-mile current with big sand-waves, beginning about sixty feet
-from the shore, running in the middle of the river. If the engine ran,
-and the stern paddle-wheel turned, his reputation was saved. If she
-was powerful enough to go against the current, it was a triumph and we
-would start for the Gulf at once.
-
-On board were Phillipps, a volunteer, and myself. Before turning the
-boat loose, the engine was tried. It was a success. The paddle-wheel
-churned the water at a great rate, sending the boat upstream as far as
-the ropes would let her go. We would try a preliminary run in the
-quiet water close to the shore, before making the test in the swift
-current. The order was given to cast off, and for two men, the owner
-and another, to hold to the ropes and follow on the shore. The engine
-was started, the paddle-wheel revolved, slowly at first but gathering
-speed with each revolution. We began to move gently, then faster, so
-that the men on shore had difficulty in keeping even with us, impeded
-as they were with bushes and sloping banks. Flushed with success, the
-order was given to turn her loose, and we gathered in the ropes. Now
-we were drifting away from the shore and making some headway against
-the swift current. The crowd on shore was left behind.
-
-But as we left the bank the river increased in speed and the boat
-gradually lost. Then she stood still, but began to turn slowly,
-broadside to the current. This was something we had not foreseen. With
-no headway the rudder was of no avail. There was no sweep-oar; we had
-even neglected to put an oar on the boat. With pieces of boards the
-stranger and I paddled, trying to hold her straight, but all the time,
-in spite of our efforts, she drifted away from the land and slowly
-turned. A big sand-wave struck her, she wheeled in her tracks and
-raced straight for a pier, down the stream.
-
-About this time our engineer began having trouble with his engine. At
-first we feared it would not run, now it seemed it would not stop.
-
-A great shout went up from the shore, and a bet was made that we would
-run to the Gulf in less than a day. A darky boy fell off a boat in the
-excitement, the Indians did a dance, men pounded each other and
-whooped for joy. Then a bolt came loose, and the engine ran away.
-Driving-rod and belts were whirled "regardless," as the passenger
-afterwards said, about our heads.
-
-Then the crash came. Our efforts to escape the pier were of no avail.
-I made a puny effort to break the impact with a pole, but was sent
-sprawling on the deck. Al tumbled headlong on top of the engine, which
-he had stopped at last, our passenger rolled over and over, but we all
-stayed with the ship. Each grabbing a board, we began to paddle and
-steered the craft to the shore.
-
-With the excitement over, the crowd faded away. Only two or three
-willing hands remained to help us line the craft back to the landing.
-The owner, who had to run around the end of the bridge, came down
-puffing and blowing, badly winded, at the end of the first round.
-Without a word from any one we brought the boat back to the landing.
-
-Al was the first to speak.
-
-"Well, what are you going to do?" he asked.
-
-"Me? I'm going to take my boat and start for the Gulf in ten minutes.
-I'll take nothing that I cannot carry. If I have to leave the river I
-will travel light across the desert to Calexico. I think that I can
-get through. If you want to go along, I'll stick with you until we get
-back. What do you think about it?"
-
-It was a long speech and a little bitter perhaps. I felt that way. The
-disappointment on top of the three days' delay when time was precious
-could not be forgotten in a moment. And when my speech was said I was
-all through.
-
-Al said he would be ready in half an hour. Our beds were left behind.
-Al had a four-yard square of canvas for a sail. This would be
-sufficient covering at night in the hot desert. We had two canteens.
-The provisions, scarcely touched before arriving here, were sufficient
-for five days. I was so anxious to get started that I did not take the
-time to replenish them in Yuma, intending to do so at the custom-house
-on the Arizona side twelve miles below, where some one had told me
-there was a store. I counted on camping there. After a hurriedly eaten
-luncheon we were ready to start, the boat was shoved off, and we were
-embarked for Mexico.
-
-Half an hour later we passed the abandoned Imperial Canal, the
-man-made channel which had nearly destroyed the vast agricultural
-lands which it had in turn created. Just such a flood as that on which
-we were travelling had torn out the insufficiently supported
-head-gates. The entire stream, instead of pushing slowly across the
-delta, weltering in its own silt to the Gulf, poured into the bottom
-of the basin nearly four hundred feet below the top of this silt-made
-dam. In a single night it cut an eighty-foot channel in the unyielding
-soil, and what had once been the northern end of the California Gulf
-was turned into an inland sea, filled with the turbid waters of the
-Colorado, instead of the sparkling waters of the ocean. Nothing but an
-almost superhuman fight finally rescued the land from the grip of the
-water.
-
-A short distance below, just across the Mexican line, on the
-California side, was the new canal, dug in a firmer soil and with
-strongly built gates anchored in rock back from the river.
-
-Half a mile away from the stream, on a spur railway, was the Mexican
-custom-house. I had imagined that it would be beside the river, and
-that guards would be seen patrolling the shore. But aside from an
-Indian fishing, there was no one to be seen. We walked out to the
-custom-house, gave a list of the few things which we had, assured them
-that we carried no guns, paid our duty, and departed. We had imagined
-that our boat would be inspected, but no one came near.
-
-The border line makes a jog here at the river and the Arizona-Mexico
-line was still a few miles down the stream. We had passed the mouth of
-the old silt-dammed Colorado channel, which flowed a little west of
-south; and we turned instead to the west into the spreading delta or
-moraine. About this time I remarked that I had seen no store at the
-custom-house and that I must not neglect to get provisions at the next
-one or we would be rather short.
-
-"We passed our last custom-house back there." Al replied, "That's
-likely the last place we will see until we get to the ranch by the
-Gulf."
-
-No custom-house! No store! This was a surprise. What was a border for
-if not to have custom-houses and inspectors? With all the talk of
-smuggling I had not thought of anything else. And I could tell by Al's
-tone that his estimation of my foresight had dropped several degrees.
-This was only natural, for his disappointment and the jibes still
-rankled.
-
-At last we were wholly in Mexican territory. With the States behind,
-all of our swiftly running water had departed, and we now travelled on
-a stream that was nearly stagnant. All the cottonwood logs which had
-finally been carried down the stream after having been deposited on a
-hundred shores, found here their final resting place. About each
-cluster of logs an island was forming, covered with a rank grass and
-tules.
-
-Ramified channels wound here and there. Two or three times we found
-ourselves in a shallow channel, and with some difficulty retraced our
-way. All channels looked alike, but only one was deep.
-
-Then the willow trees which were far distant on either shore began to
-close in and we travelled in a channel not more than a hundred feet
-wide, growing smaller with every mile. This new channel is sometimes
-termed the Bee River. It parallels the northern Mexico line; it also
-parallels a twenty-five mile levee which the United States government
-has constructed along the northern edge of this fifty-mile wide dam
-shoved across the California Gulf by the stream, building higher every
-year. Except for the river channel the dam may be said to reach
-unbroken from the Arizona-Sonora Mesa to the Cocopah Mountains. The
-levee runs from a point of rocks near the river to Lone Mountain, a
-solitary peak some distance east of the main range. This levee, built
-since the trouble with the canal, is all that prevents the water from
-breaking into the basin in a dozen places.
-
-We saw signs of two or three camp-fires close to the stream, and with
-the memory of the stories haunting us a little we built only a small
-fire when we cooked our evening meal, then extinguished it, and camped
-on a dry point of land a mile or two below. I think we were both a
-little nervous that night; I confess that I was, and if an unwashed
-black-bearded individual had poked his head out from the willows and
-said, "Woof!" or whatever it is that they say when they want to start
-up a jack-rabbit, we would both have stampeded clear across the
-border. In fact I felt a little as I did when I played truant from
-school and wondered what would happen when I was found out.
-
-Daybreak found us ready to resume our journey, and with a rising sun
-any nervousness vanished. What could any one want with two men who had
-nothing but a flat-bottomed boat?
-
-All the morning we travelled west, the trees ever drawing closer as
-our water departed on the south, running through the willows,
-arrow-weed, and cat-tails. Then the channel opened into Volcanic Lake,
-a circular body of water, which is not a lake but simply a gathering
-together of the streams we had been losing, and here the water stands,
-depositing its mud. All the way across had no depth but a bottomless
-mud, so soft it would engulf a person if he tried to wade across.
-
-On the west there was no growth. The shore was nothing but an ash-like
-powder, not a sand, but a rich soil blown here and there, building in
-dunes against every obstruction, ever moving before the wind. Here
-were boiling, sputtering mud pots and steam vents building up and
-exhausting through mud pipe-stems, rising a foot or two above the
-springs. Here was a shelter or two of sun-warped boards constructed by
-those who come here crippled with rheumatism and are supposed to
-depart, cured. Here we saw signs of a wagon track driven toward
-Calexico, the border town directly north of the lake. The heat was
-scorching, the sun, reflected from the sand and water, was blistering,
-and we could well imagine what a walk across that ash-like soil would
-mean. Mirages in the distance beckoned, trees and lakes were seen over
-toward the mountains where we had seen nothing but desert before; heat
-waves rose and fell. Our mouths began to puff from the reflected sun,
-our faces burned and peeled, black and red in spots. There was no
-indication of the slightest breeze until about three o'clock, when the
-wind moved gently across the lake.
-
-We had skirted the northern part of the circle, passing a few small
-streams and then found one of the three large channels which empty the
-lake. As it happened we took the one on the outside, and the longest.
-The growth grew thicker than ever, the stream choked down to fifty
-feet. Now it began to loop backward and forward and back again, as
-though trying to make the longest and crookedest channel possible in
-the smallest space. The water in the channel was stagnant, swift
-streamlets rushed in from the tules on the north, and rushed out again
-on the south. It was not always a simple matter to ascertain which was
-the main channel. Others just as large were diverted from the stream.
-Twice we attempted to cut across, but the water became shallow, the
-tules stalled our boats, and we were glad to return, sounding with a
-pole when in doubt.
-
-Then we began to realize that we were not entirely alone in this
-wilderness of water. We saw evidence of another's passage, in broken
-cat-tails and blazed trees. In many places he had pushed into the
-thickets. We concluded it must be a trapper. At last, to our surprise,
-we saw a telephone equipment, sheltered in a box nailed on a
-water-surrounded tree. The line ran directly across the stream. Here
-also we could see where a boat had forced a way through, and the water
-plants had been cut with a sharp instrument. What could it be? We were
-certain no line ran to the only ranch at the Gulf. We had information
-of another ranch directly on the border line, but did not think it
-came below the levee, and as far as we had learned, there were no
-homes but the wickiups of the Cocopah in the jungles. It was like one
-of those thrilling stories of Old Sleuth and Dead Shot Dick which we
-read, concealed in our schoolbooks, when we were supposed to be
-studying the physical geography of Mexico. But the telephone was no
-fiction, and had recently been repaired, but for what purpose it was
-there we could not imagine. After leaving the lake there was no dry
-land. At night our boat, filled with green tules for a bed, was tied
-to a willow tree, with its roots submerged in ten feet of water. Never
-were there such swarms of mosquitos. In the morning our faces were
-corrugated with lumps, not a single exposed spot remaining unbitten.
-
-The loops continued with the next day's travel, but we were gradually
-working to the southwest, then they began to straighten out somewhat,
-as the diverted streams returned. We thought early in the morning that
-we would pass about ten miles to the east of the coast range, but it
-was not to be. Directly to the base of the dark, heat-vibrating rocks
-we pulled, and landed on the first shore that we had seen for
-twenty-four hours.
-
-Here was a recently used trail, and tracks where horses came down to
-the water. Here too was the track of a barefooted Cocopah, a tribe
-noted for its men of gigantic build, and with great feet out of all
-proportion to their size. If that footprint was to be fossilized,
-future generations would marvel at the evidence of some gigantic
-prehistoric animal, an alligator with a human-shaped foot. These
-Indians have lived in these mud bottoms so long, crossing the streams
-on rafts made of bundles of tules, and only going to the higher land
-when their homes are inundated by the floods, that they have become a
-near approach to a web-footed human being.
-
-Our stream merely touched the mountain, then turned directly to the
-southeast in a gradually increasing stream. Now we began to see the
-breeding places of the water-birds of which we had heard. There was a
-confusion of bird calls, sand-hill cranes were everywhere; in some
-cases with five stick-built nests in a single water-killed tree. A
-blue heron flopped around as though it had broken a wing, to decoy us
-from its nest. The snowy white pelican waddled along the banks and
-mingled with the cormorants. There were great numbers of gulls, and
-occasional snipe. We were too late to see the ducks which come here,
-literally by the million, during the winter months. There were hawks'
-nests in the same groups of trees as the cranes, with the young hawks
-stretching their necks for the food which was to be had in such
-abundance. And on another tree sat the parent hawks, complacently
-looking over the nests of the other birds, like a coyote waiting for a
-horse to die. At Cocopah Mountain a golden eagle soared, coming down
-close to the ground as we rested under the mesquite. Then as we
-travelled clear streams of water began to pour in from the north and
-east, those same streams we had lost above, but cleared entirely of
-their silt. Now the willows grew scarce, and instead of mud banks a
-dry, firm earth was built up from the river's edge, and the stream
-increased in size. Soon it was six or seven hundred feet wide and
-running with a fair current. This was the Hardy River. We noticed
-signs of falling water on the banks as though the stream had dropped
-an inch or two. In a half-hour the mark indicated a fall of eight
-inches or more; then we realized we were going out with the tide. A
-taste of water proved it. The river water was well mixed with a weak
-saline solution. We filled our canteens at once.
-
-We saw a small building and a flagpole on the south shore, but on
-nearing the place found it was deserted. A few miles below were two
-other channels equally as large as that on which we travelled,
-evidently fed by streams similar to our own. There were numerous
-scattered trees, some of them cottonwood, and we saw some grazing
-cattle. We began to look for the ranch house, which some one had said
-was at the point where the Colorado and the Hardy joined, and which
-others told us was at the Gulf.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXVII
-
-
-
-THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA
-
-That the head of the Gulf of California has a big tide is well known.
-Choked in a narrowing cone, the waters rise higher and higher as they
-come to the apex, reaching twenty-five feet or over in a high tide.
-This causes a tidal bore to roll up the Colorado, and from all reports
-it was something to be avoided. The earliest Spanish explorers told
-some wonderful tales of being caught in this bore and of nearly losing
-their little sailing vessels.
-
-This was my first experience with river tides. It was somewhat of a
-disappointment to me that I could not arrange to be here at a high
-tide, for we had come at the first quarter of the moon. Out on the
-open sea one can usually make some headway by rowing against the ebb
-or flow of the tide: here on the Colorado, where it flowed upstream at
-a rate of from five to eight miles an hour, it was different. When we
-reached the head of the tide, it was going out. Unfortunately for us
-the day was gone when the current began to run strong. It hardly
-seemed advisable to travel with it after dark. We might pass the
-ranch, or be carried against a rock-bound coast, or find difficulty in
-landing and be overwhelmed by the tidal bore. So when darkness fell we
-camped pulling our boat out in a little slough to prevent it from
-being carried away. Evidently we were too near the headwaters for a
-tidal bore, for at eleven P.M. the waters turned and came back as
-quietly as they ran out.
-
-We launched our boat before the break of day, and for four hours we
-travelled on a good current. The channel now had widened to a
-half-mile, with straight earthy banks, about fifteen feet high. Still
-there was no sign of a ranch, and it began to look to us as if there
-was little likelihood of finding any.
-
-The land was nearly level and except for a few raised hummocks on
-which grew some scattered trees, it was quite bare. This was not only
-because it did not get the life-giving water from the north, but
-because at times it was submerged under the saline waters from the
-south. Near the shores of the river, and extending back for fifty
-feet, was a matted, rank growth of grass; beyond that the earth was
-bare, baked and cracked by the burning sun. This grass, we found, was
-a favorite resort of rattlesnakes. We killed two of them, a large one
-and a vicious little flat-headed sidewinder.
-
-All this land was the south rim of the silt dam, which extended from
-the line of cliffs or mesa on the east to the mountains on the west.
-The other rim, a hundred feet higher, lay at least fifty miles to the
-north. Here was the resting-place of a small portion of the sediment
-carved away by the Colorado's floods. How deep it is piled and how far
-it extends out under the waters of the Gulf would be hard to say.
-
-We felt sure that we would get to the Gulf with this tide, but when
-the time came for it to turn we were still many miles away. There was
-nothing to do but to camp out on this sun-baked plain. We stopped a
-little after 9.30 A.M. Now that we were nearing the Gulf we were sure
-there would be a tidal bore. As we breakfasted a slight rushing sound
-was heard, and what appeared to be a ripple of broken water or small
-breaker came up the stream and passed on. This was a disappointment.
-With high water on the river and with a low tide this was all the
-tidal bore we would see.
-
-In four hours the water rose fourteen feet, then for two hours the
-rise was slower. Within three feet of the level it came. The opposite
-side, rounded at the edges, looked like a thread on top of the water,
-tapered to a single silken strand and looking toward the Gulf, merged
-into the water. To all appearances it was a placid lake spread from
-mountain to mesa.
-
-Our smaller canteen was still filled with the fresh water secured the
-evening before. The other had been emptied and was filled again before
-the return of the tide, but considerable taste of the salt remained.
-What we did now must be done with caution. So far we had not seen the
-ranch. We were in doubt whether it was somewhere out on the coast or
-back on one of the sloughs passed the evening before. We had heard of
-large sail-boats being hauled from Yuma and launched by the ranch.
-This would seem to indicate that it was somewhere on the Gulf. We had
-provisions sufficient for one day, one canteen of fresh water, and
-another so mixed with the salt water that we would not use it except
-as a last resort.
-
-A little after 3.30 P.M. the tide changed; we launched our boat and
-went out with the flood. As we neared the mouth of the stream we found
-that the inrush and outrush of water had torn the banks. Here the
-river spread in a circular pool several miles across. It seemed almost
-as if the waters ran clear to the line of yellow cliffs and to the
-hazy mountain range. Then the shores closed in again just before the
-current divided quite evenly on either side of a section of the barren
-plain named Montague Island. We took the channel to the east.
-
-Our last hope of finding the ranch was in a dried-out river channel,
-overgrown with trees. But although we looked carefully as we passed,
-there was no sign of a trail or of human life. Some egrets preened
-their silken feathers on the bank; sand-hill cranes and two coyotes,
-fat as hogs and dragging tails weighted with mud, feasted on the
-lively hermit-crabs, which they extracted from their holes--and that
-was all.
-
-The sun, just above the lilac-tinted mountains, hung like a great
-suspended ball of fire. The cloudless sky glared like a furnace. Deep
-purple shadows crept into the canyons slashing the mountain range. The
-yellow dust-waves and the mirages disappeared with the going down of
-the sun. Still we were carried on and on. We would go down with the
-tide. Now the end of the island lay opposite the line of cliffs; soon
-we would be in the Gulf.
-
-So ended the Colorado. Two thousand miles above, it was a beautiful
-river, born of a hundred snow-capped peaks and a thousand crystal
-streams; gathering strength, it became the masterful river which had
-carved the hearts of mountains and slashed the rocky plateaus,
-draining a kingdom and giving but little in return. Now it was going
-under, but it was fighting to the end. Waves of yellow struggled up
-through waves of green and were beaten down again. The dorsal fins of
-a half-dozen sharks cut circles near our craft. With the last
-afterglow we were past the end of the island and were nearing the
-brooding cliffs. Still the current ran strong. The last vestige of day
-was swallowed in the gloom, just as the Colorado was buried 'neath the
-blue. A hard wind was blowing, toward the shore; the sea was choppy. A
-point of rocks where the cliffs met the sea was our goal. Would we
-never reach it? Even in the night, which was now upon us, the distance
-was deceptive. At last we neared the pile of rocks. The sound of
-waters pounding on the shore was heard, and we hurriedly landed, a
-half-mile above it, just as the tide turned.
-
-The beach was a half-mile wide, covered with mud and sloughs. There
-was no high shore. But an examination showed that the tide ran back to
-the cliffs. One of us had to stay with the boat. Telling Phillipps to
-get what sleep he could, I sat in the boat, and allowed the small
-breakers which fox-chased each other to beat it in as the tide rose.
-
-An arctic explorer has said that having an adventure means that
-something unexpected or unforeseen has happened; that some one has
-been incompetent. I had the satisfaction of knowing that the fault of
-this adventure, if such it could be called, was mine. Here we were, at
-our goal in Mexico, supposed to be a hostile land, with scant
-provisions for one day. It was a hundred miles along the line of
-cliffs, back to Yuma. So far, we had failed to find the ranch. It was
-not likely that it was around the point of rocks. We knew now that the
-Colorado channel was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river, and
-was not a slough as we had supposed. Doubtless the ranch was up there.
-Our best plan was to return to the head of the tide, going up the
-Colorado, then if we did not find the ranch we would abandon the boat,
-snare some birds, keep out of the scorching heat, and travel in the
-morning and evening. Two active men should be able to do that without
-difficulty.
-
-So the hours passed, with the breakers driving the boat toward the
-line of cliffs. When it had reached its highest point, I pulled into a
-slough and tied up, then woke Al as we had agreed. While I slept, he
-climbed the cliffs to have a last look. An hour after daybreak he
-returned. Nothing but rock and desert could be seen. We dragged the
-boat down in the slime of the slough until we caught the falling tide.
-Then Al rigged up his sail. With the rising sun a light breeze blew in
-from the Gulf. Here was our opportunity. Slowly we went up against the
-falling tide. Then as the breeze failed, the tide returned. Fifty feet
-away a six foot black sea bass floated; his rounded back lifted above
-the water. With the approach of the boat he was gone. The sharks were
-seen again.
-
-Two hours later we had entered the mouth of the river carried by the
-rising tide. Several miles were left behind. Another breeze came up as
-the tide failed, and the sail was rigged up again. Things were coming
-our way at last. Al knew how to handle a boat. Running her in close to
-the top of the straight falling banks I could leap to the land, take a
-picture, then run and overtake the boat, and leap on again.
-
-Then the wind shifted, the tide turned, and we tied up, directly
-opposite the point where we had camped the afternoon before. It was
-the hottest day we had seen Whirlwinds, gathering the dust in slender
-funnels, scurried across the plains. Mirages of trees bordering
-shimmering lakes and spreading water such as we had come through below
-Yuma were to be seen, even out towards the sea. Then over toward the
-cliffs where the old Colorado once ran we saw a column of distant
-smoke. Perhaps it was a hunter; it could hardly be the ranch. As we
-could do nothing with the boat, we concluded to walk over that way. It
-was many miles distant. Taking everything we had, including our last
-lunch, we started our walk, leaving a cloth on a pole to mark the
-point where our boat was anchored. But after going four miles it still
-seemed no nearer than before, so we returned. It was evening. The
-water was drinkable again; that was something to be thankful for. By
-ten o'clock that night the tide would come up again. After dark we
-found that our boat was being beached. So we ran it down and began
-pulling it along over a shoal reaching far out from the shore. As we
-tugged I was sure I heard a call somewhere up the river. What kind of
-a land was this! Could it be that my senses were all deceiving me as
-my eyes were fooled by the mirage? I had heard it, Al had not, and
-laughed when I said that I had. We listened and heard it again,
-plainly this time, "Can't you men find a landing? We have a good one
-up here," it said.
-
-We asked them to row down, advising them to keep clear of the shoal.
-We waded out, guided by their voices, in the pitch darkness and neared
-the boat.
-
-One shadowy form sat in either end of a flat-bottomed boat. There was
-a mast, and the boat was fitted for two oarsmen as well. Evidently the
-load was heavy, for it was well down in the water. The sail cloth was
-spread over all the boat, excepting one end where there was a small
-sheet-iron stove, with a pan of glowing wood coal underneath. The
-aroma of coffee came from a pot on the stove. As I steadied myself at
-the bow I touched a crumpled flag,--Mexican, I thought,--but I could
-not see. Both figures sat facing us, with rifles in their hands, alert
-and ready for a surprise. Smugglers! I thought; guns, I imagined. They
-could not see our faces in the dark, neither could we distinguish
-theirs. Judging by their voices they were young men. I thought from
-the first that they were Mexicans, but they talked without accent.
-They could see that we carried no arms, but their vigilance was not
-relaxed. They asked what our trouble was and we told them of the
-beached boat, what we had been doing, and why we were there. They said
-they were out for a little sight-seeing trip down in the Gulf. They
-might go to Tiburone Island. One of them wondered if it was true that
-the natives were cannibals. He said he would not care about being
-shot, but he would hate to be put in their stew-pot. We asked them how
-much water they carried. A fifteen-gallon keg was all They hoped to
-get more along the coast. It is quite well known there is none. They
-professed to be uninformed about the country, did not know there was a
-ranch or a tidal bore, and thanked us for our information about the
-tides, and the advice to fill their keg when the water was lowest,
-which would be in half an hour. They could not sell any provisions,
-but gave us a quart of flour.
-
-As we talked an undermined bank toppled over, sounding like shots from
-a gun. One cocked his rifle on the impulse, then laughed when he
-realized what it was. Just before we parted one of them remarked, "You
-came through the Bee River four days ago, near a telephone, didn't
-you?" "Yes, but we didn't see any one," I replied.
-
-"No? But we saw you!" And we felt the smiles we could not see.
-
-They said the large ranch had some Chinamen clearing the highest
-ground, and building levees around it to keep the water out. The
-telephone and a motor boat connected the different ranches. Their
-advice to us was to keep to the river, not to look for the ranch, but
-to get on the telephone and raise a racket until some one showed up.
-
-Then we parted to go to our respective landings, with mutual wishes
-for a successful journey. The boat was pulled down. The tide was on
-the point of turning, but it would be an hour before there would be
-any strength to it. I went to shore and built a fire of some
-driftwood, for the long stand in the water had chilled me. Al stayed
-with the boat. Earlier in the day, I cautiously shook the sticks loose
-from the matted grass, fearing the rattlers which were everywhere. In
-this case nothing buzzed. But I had no sooner got my fire well started
-when a rattler began to sing, roused by the light and the heat, about
-twenty feet away. My fire was built beside one of the many sloughs
-which cut back through the grass and ended in the barren soil. These
-sloughs were filled with water when the tide was in and made ideal
-landing places, especially if one had to avoid a big tidal bore.
-Getting on the opposite side of the fire, I tossed a stick
-occasionally to keep him roused. Soon another joined, and between them
-they made the air hum. By this time I was thoroughly warmed and felt
-that the boat would be the best place for me. Carefully extinguishing
-my fire, I went down to the river just as the tide returned. Without
-any sign or call from the shore we were carried up with the tide. We
-were both weary but I dared not sleep, so I merely kept the boat away
-from the shores and drifted, while Phillipps slept. I had picked out a
-guiding star which I little needed while the current was running
-strong, but which would give us our course when the tide changed, for
-we could be carried out just as easily.
-
-But an hour after we left our camp another light appeared, growing
-larger and larger. It was one of two things. Either my fire was not
-extinguished, or a match thrown down by one of the others had fired
-the deep dry grass. I consoled myself that it could not spread, for
-the sloughs and the barren soil would cut it off. I had a grim
-satisfaction when I thought of the snakes and how they would run for
-the desert land. This was a real guiding star, growing larger and
-larger as we were carried up the stream. I slept on shore when the
-tide would take us no farther. Phillipps got breakfast. We were now
-about three miles from the slough. After breakfast we alternately
-towed the boat, for there was no wind to carry us up this morning, and
-two hours later arrived at the diverging streams. Near by we saw some
-mules showing evidence of having been worked. It was clear now that
-the ranch was near. There was still a chance that we would take the
-wrong stream. Over on the opposite side was a tall cottonwood tree.
-This I climbed, and had the satisfaction of seeing some kind of a shed
-half a mile up the east stream. The land between proved to be a large
-island. As we neared the building two swarthy men emerged and came
-down to the shore. "Buenos dias," Al called as we pulled in to the
-landing.
-
-"Buenos dias, Senor," they answered with a smile.
-
-They were employees of the Rancho La Bolso, which was a half-mile up
-the stream.
-
-Did we make the big fire which had burned until morning?
-
-Our answer seemed to relieve their minds.
-
-What would we do with our boat? It was theirs to do with as they
-pleased. Leading two horses from out of the building, they mounted and
-told us to climb on behind, and away we rode across some water-filled
-sloughs. Hidden in the trees we came to the buildings--three or four
-flat-topped adobe houses. Some little brown children scattered to
-announce our coming.
-
-As we dismounted two white men approached. "Why, hello, Phillipps!"
-the ranch boss said when he saw my companion. "This is a long walk
-from Yuma. You fellows are just in time to grub!"
-
-NOTES
-
-[Footnote 1: The various expeditions which are credited with
-continuous or complete journeys through all the canyons and the dates
-of leaving Green River, Wyoming, are as follows:
-
-     Major Powell, 1st journey. May 24, 1869.
-
-     Major Powell, 2nd journey. May 22, 1871. Discontinued at Kanab
-       Canyon in the Grand Canyon.
-
-     Galloway. Sept. 20, 1895 and 1896.
-
-     Flavell. Aug. 27, 1896.
-
-     Stone. Sept. 12, 1909.
-
-     Kolb. Sept. 8, 1911.
-
-For a more complete record of the earlier parties see appendix.]
-
-[Footnote 2: The initials E.C. apply to my brother, Emery C. Kolb;
-E.L. to myself. These initials are frequently used in this text. For
-several years the nick-name "Ed" has been applied to me, and in my
-brothers' narratives I usually figure as Ed.]
-
-[Footnote 3: It is not unusual for certain individual animals to be
-outlawed or to have a price set on their heads by the stockmen's
-associations, in addition to the regular bounty paid by the counties.
-At the time this is written there is a standing reward of $200 for a
-certain "lobo," or timber wolf which roams over the Kaibab Forest
-directly opposite our home in the Grand Canyon. In addition to this
-there is a bounty of $10 offered by the county. This wolf has taken to
-killing colts and occasional full-grown horses, in addition to his
-regular diet of yearling calves.]
-
-
-[Footnote 4: Brown-Stanton. May 25, 1889.
-
-Russell-Monnette. Sept. 20, 1907.
-
-For a more complete record of these expeditions, as well as others who
-attempted the passage of the canyons below this point, see appendix.]
-
-
-[Footnote 5: Left by the Stone expedition.]
-
-[Footnote 6: While Major Powell was making his second voyage of
-exploration, another party was toiling up these canyons towing their
-boats from the precipitous shores. This party was under the leadership
-of Lieutenant Wheeler of the U.S. Army. The party was large, composed
-of twenty men, including a number of Mojave Indians, in the river
-expedition, while others were sent overland with supplies to the mouth
-of Diamond Creek. By almost superhuman effort they succeeded in
-getting their boats up the canyon as far as Diamond Creek. While there
-is no doubt that they reached this point, there were times when we
-could hardly believe it was possible when we saw the walls they would
-have to climb in this granite gorge. In some places there seemed to be
-no place less than five hundred feet above the river where they could
-secure a foothold. Their method was to carry a rope over these places,
-then pull the boats up through the rapids by main force. It would be
-just as easy to pull a heavy rowboat up the gorge of Niagara, as
-through some of these rapids. Their best plan, by far, would have been
-to haul their boats in at Diamond Creek and make the descent, as they
-did after reaching this point. The only advantage their method gave
-them was a knowledge of what they would meet with on the downstream
-run. Lieutenant Wheeler professed to disbelieve that Major Powell had
-descended below Diamond Creek, and called his voyage the completion of
-the exploration of the Colorado River. In a four days' run they
-succeeded in covering the same distance that had taken four weeks of
-endless toil, to bring their boats up to this point.]
-
-[Footnote 7: See appendix, History of Cataract Canyon.]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming
-to Mexico, by E. L. Kolb
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON ***
-
-***** This file should be named 13150.txt or 13150.zip *****
-This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
-        https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/1/5/13150/
-
-Produced by Ted Garvin, Keith M. Eckrich, and the Project Gutenberg
-Online Distributed Proofreaders Team
-
-
-Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
-will be renamed.
-
-Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
-one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
-(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
-permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
-set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
-copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
-protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
-Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
-charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
-do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
-rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
-such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
-research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
-practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
-subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
-redistribution.
-
-
-
-*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
-
-THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
-PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
-
-To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
-distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
-(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
-Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
-https://gutenberg.org/license).
-
-
-Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works
-
-1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
-and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
-(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
-the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
-all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
-If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
-terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
-entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
-
-1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
-used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
-agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
-things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
-paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
-and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
-
-1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
-or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
-collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
-individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
-located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
-copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
-works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
-are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
-Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
-freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
-this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
-the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
-keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
-Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
-
-1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
-what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
-a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
-the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
-before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
-creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
-Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
-the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
-States.
-
-1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
-
-1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
-access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
-whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
-phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
-copied or distributed:
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
-from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
-posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
-and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
-or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
-with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
-work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
-through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
-Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
-1.E.9.
-
-1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
-with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
-must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
-terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
-to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
-permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
-
-1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
-work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
-
-1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
-electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
-prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
-active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm License.
-
-1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
-compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
-word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
-distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
-"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
-posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
-you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
-copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
-request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
-form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
-
-1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
-performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
-unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
-access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
-that
-
-- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
-     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
-     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
-     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
-     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
-     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
-     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
-     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
-     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
-     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
-     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
-     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
-
-- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
-     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
-     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-     License.  You must require such a user to return or
-     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
-     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
-     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
-     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
-     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
-     of receipt of the work.
-
-- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
-     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
-forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
-both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
-Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
-Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
-
-1.F.
-
-1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
-effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
-public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
-collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
-"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
-corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
-property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
-computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
-your equipment.
-
-1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
-of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
-liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
-fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
-LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
-PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
-TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
-LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
-INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
-DAMAGE.
-
-1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
-defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
-receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
-written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
-received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
-your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
-the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
-refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
-providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
-receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
-is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
-opportunities to fix the problem.
-
-1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
-in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
-WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
-WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
-
-1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
-warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
-If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
-law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
-interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
-the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
-provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
-
-1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
-trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
-providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
-with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
-promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
-harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
-that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
-or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
-work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
-Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
-
-
-Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
-electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
-including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
-because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
-people in all walks of life.
-
-Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
-assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
-goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
-remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
-and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
-To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
-and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
-and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
-
-
-Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
-Foundation
-
-The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
-501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
-state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
-Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
-number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
-https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
-permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
-
-The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
-Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
-throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
-809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
-business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
-information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
-page at https://pglaf.org
-
-For additional contact information:
-     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
-     Chief Executive and Director
-     gbnewby@pglaf.org
-
-
-Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
-spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
-increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
-freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
-array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
-($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
-status with the IRS.
-
-The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
-charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
-States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
-considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
-with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
-where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
-SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
-particular state visit https://pglaf.org
-
-While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
-have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
-against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
-approach us with offers to donate.
-
-International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
-any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
-outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
-
-Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
-methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
-ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
-donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
-
-
-Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
-works.
-
-Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
-concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
-with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
-Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
-
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
-editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
-unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
-keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
-
-
-Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
-
-     https://www.gutenberg.org
-
-This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
-including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
-subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/old/13150.zip b/old/13150.zip
deleted file mode 100644
index a0cdcfb..0000000
--- a/old/13150.zip
+++ /dev/null