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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume X + Arranged in systematic order: + Forming a complete history of the origin and progress of navigation, + discovery, and commerce, by sea and land, from the earliest ages to + the present time. + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: August 7, 2004 [EBook #13130] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, VOLUME X *** + +Produced by Robert Connal, Graeme Mackreth and PG Distributed +Proofreaders. This file was produced from images generously made +available by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + +</pre> + +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>GENERAL</h2> + +<h2>HISTORY AND COLLECTION</h2> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,</h1> + +<h2>ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:</h2> + +<h2>FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS</h2> + +<h2>OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,</h2> + +<h2>BY SEA AND LAND,</h2> + +<h2>FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>BY</h2> + +<h2>ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.</h2> + +<h2>VOL. X.</h2> + +<h3>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:</h3> + +<h3>AND T. CADELL, LONDON.</h3> + +<h3>MDCCCXXIV.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME X.</h2> + +<p><a href="#part2"><b>PART II.--(Continued.)</b></a></p> + +<p><a href="#book2-4"><b>BOOK IV.</b></a></p> + +<p>Early Circumnavigations, or Voyages round the World</p> + +<p>Introduction.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-1"><b><i>CHAPTER I.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage of Ferdinand Magellan round the World, in +1519-1522,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Some Account of Magellan, previous to the +Commencement of the Voyage,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Proceedings of the Voyage from Seville to +Patagonia, and wintering there,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Prosecution of the Voyage, till the Death of +Magellan,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Continuation of the Voyage to its Conclusion,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-2"><b><i>CHAPTER II.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage by Sir Francis Drake round the World, in 1517-1580,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Introduction, and Preparation for the Voyage,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage from England to the Straits +of Magellan,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Incidents of the Voyage, from the Straits of +Magellan to New Albion,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Continuation of the Voyage, from New Albion to +England.</p> + +<p>SECTION V. Reception of Sir Francis Drake in England, and some +Notices of his remaining Actions,</p> + +<p>SECTION VI First Supplement to the Voyage of Sir Francis +Drake; being an Account of Part of the foregoing Navigation, by +Nuno da Silva,</p> + +<p>SECTION VII Second Supplement, being the Voyage of Mr John +Winter, after parting from Sir Francis Drake,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-3"><b><i>CHAPTER III.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage of Sir Thomas Candish round the World, in +1586-1588,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage from England to the +Pacific,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Transactions on the Western Coast of America,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Voyage Home to England,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Second Voyage of Sir Thomas Candish, intended for +the South Sea, in 1591</p> + +<p>SECTION 1. Incidents in the Voyage, till the Separation of the +Ships,</p> + +<p>SECTION 2. Disastrous Result of the Voyage to Sir Thomas +Candish,</p> + +<p>SECTION 3. Continuation of the Voyage of the Desire, Captain +Davis, after parting from Sir Thomas Candish,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-4"><b><i>CHAPTER IV.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage of Oliver Van Noort round the World, in 1538-1601,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage.</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Voyage of Sebald de Weert, to the South Sea and +Straits of Magellan, in 1598,</p> + +<p>SECTION 1. Incidents of the Voyage from Holland to the Straits +of Magellan,</p> + +<p>SECTION 2. The Fleet passes through the Straits of Magellan +into the South Sea, and is forced to return,</p> + +<p>SECTION 3. Incidents daring their second Residence in the +Straits of Magellan,</p> + +<p>SECTION 4. Voyage from the Straits to Holland,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-5"><b><i>CHAPTER V.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage of George Spilbergen round the World, in 1614-1617,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage, from Holland to the South +Sea,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Transactions in the South Sea, along the Western +Coast of America,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Voyage Home from America, by the East Indies and +Cape of Good Hope,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-6"><b><i>CHAPTER VI.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, in 1615-1617, by William Cornelison +Schouten and Jacques Le Maire, going round Cape Horn,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Journal of the Voyage from the Texel to Cape +Horn,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Continuation of the Voyage, from Cape Horn to the +Island of Java,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-7"><b><i>CHAPTER VII.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage of the Nassau Fleet round the World, in 1623-1626, +under the Command of Jaques Le Hermite,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Incidents of the Voyage from Holland to the South +Sea,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Transactions of the Fleet on the Western Coast of +America,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Voyage Home from the Western Coast of +America,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-8"><b><i>CHAPTER VIII.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, in 1683-1691, by Captain John Cooke, +accompanied by Captain Cowley, and Captain William Dampier,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage by Captain Cowley, till he +quitted the Revenge on the Western Coast of America,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Continuation of the Narrative of Captain Cowley, +from leaving the Revenge, to his Return to England,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Sequel of the Voyage, as far as Dampier is +concerned, after the Separation of the Nicholas from the +Revenge,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-9"><b><i>CHAPTER IX.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, by William Funnell, in 1703-1706,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage, till the Separation of +Funnell from Dampier,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Sequel of the Voyage of William Funnell, after his +Separation from Captain Dampier,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Brief Account of Stradling, Clipperton, and +Dampier, after their respective Separations, till their Returns +to England,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-10"><b><i>CHAPTER X.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, by Captain Woods Rogers, and Stephen +Courtney, in 1708-1711,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage, from England to the Island +of Juan Fernandez,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Proceedings of the Expedition on the Western Coast +of America,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Sequel of the Voyage, from California, by Way of +the East Indies, to England.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-11"><b><i>CHAPTER XI.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, by Captain John Clipperton, in +1719-1722,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage, from England to Juan +Fernandez,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Proceedings of the Success in the South Seas,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Voyage of the Success from the Coast of Mexico to +China,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Residence of Captain Clipperton at Macao, and +Returns from thence to England,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4-12"><b><i>CHAPTER XII.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Voyage round the World, by Captain George Shelvocke, in +1719-1722,</p> + +<p>Introduction,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Narrative of the Voyage from England to the South +Sea,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Proceedings in the South Sea, till Shipwrecked on +the Island of Juan Fernandez,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Residence on the Island of Juan Fernandez,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Farther Proceedings in the South Sea, after +leaving Juan Fernandez.</p> + +<h2>A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2><a name="part2" id="part2">PART II.--Continued</a></h2> + +<h2><a name="book2-4" id="book2-4">BOOK IV.</a></h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2><a name="chapter4-1" id="chapter4-1">CHAPTER I.</a></h2> + +<p>EARLY CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS, OR VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD.</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>In this <i>fourth</i> book of the <i>second</i> part of our +arrangement, it is proposed to give a history of the principal +Circumnavigations, or Voyages Round the World, previous to the +reign of our present venerable sovereign. This book, therefore, +comprises a period of 226 years, from the year 1519, when +Magellan sailed from Spain on the first circumnavigation of the +globe, till the year 1744, when Commodore Anson returned to +England from a similar expedition. The more recent +circumnavigations, which have taken place since the year 1760, +chiefly under the munificent and enlightened patronage of GEORGE +III. or in imitation of these, and which have largely contributed +to extend, and almost to render perfect, the geography and +hydrography of the terraqueous globe, are intended to form a +separate division, in a subsequent part of our arrangement.</p> + +<p>The accurate knowledge which we now possess of the form and +dimensions of this globe of earth and water which we inhabit, has +been entirely owing to the superior skill of the moderns in the +mathematical sciences, as applicable to the practice of +navigation, and to the observation and calculation of the motions +of the heavenly bodies, for the ascertainment of latitudes and +longitudes. It would require more space than can be conveniently +devoted on the present occasion, to give any clear view of the +geographical knowledge possessed by the ancients, together with a +history of the progress of that science, from the earliest times, +neither do the nature and objects of the present Collection of +Voyages and Travels call for any such deduction, of which an +excellent epitome will be found in the History of Geography, +prefixed to Playfair's System of Geography.</p> + +<p>The ancients laboured under almost absolute incapacities for +making extensive voyages or discoveries by sea, proceeding from +ignorance of the form and dimensions of the earth, and other +causes. They were but indifferently versed in the practical part +of astronomy, without which, and those instruments which have +been invented almost exclusively by the moderns, for measuring +the paths, distances, and relative positions of the heavenly +bodies, it is impossible to launch out with any tolerable success +or safety on the trackless ocean. They were ignorant also of that +wonderful property of the magnet or loadstone, which, pointing +invariably towards the north, enables the modern mariner to know +his precise course, at all times of the day of night, though +clouds and thick mists may hide the luminaries of heaven from his +observation, which were the only means of direction known to the +ancients.</p> + +<p>Various systems and theories appear to have prevailed among +the ancients respecting the figure and motion of the earth; some +justly enough supposing it to be a ball or sphere, suspended in +infinite space, while others conceived it to be a flat surface, +floating upon and surrounded by an interminable ocean. The just +conceptions of some ancient philosophers, respecting the +spherical figure of the earth, and its diurnal motion around its +own axis, were superseded by others of a more popular nature, and +forgotten for many ages. Lactantius and Augustine, two fathers of +the catholic church, unfortunately adopted the idea of the earth +being a flat surface, infinitely extending downwards; grounding +this false notion upon a mistaken interpretation of the holy +scriptures, or rather seeking assistance from them in support of +their own unphilosophical conceptions. So strongly had this false +opinion taken possession of the minds of men, in our European +world, even after the revival of learning in the west, that +Galileo was imprisoned by the holy inquisitors at Rome for +asserting the sphericity of the earth, and the doctrine of +<i>antipodes</i>, and had to redeem his liberty and life, by +writing a refutation of that heretical doctrine, which satisfied +the inquisitors, yet convinced the world of its truth.</p> + +<p>Columbus assuredly grounded his grand discovery of America +upon the knowledge of the earth being a sphere; and had not the +new western world intervened, his voyage had probably been the +first circumnavigation. In modern times, an idea has been +advanced that Columbus only retraced the steps of some former +navigator, having seen certain parts of the grand division of the +world which he discovered, already delineated on a globe. It were +improper to enter upon a refutation of this idle calumny on the +present occasion; yet it is easy to conceive, that the possessor +of that globe, may have rudely added the reported discoveries of +Columbus, to the more ancient delineations. At all events, +Columbus was the first person who conceived the bold idea that it +was practicable to sail round the globe. From the spherical +figure of the earth, then universally believed by astronomers and +cosmographers, in spite of the church, he inferred that the +ancient hemisphere or continent then known, must of necessity be +balanced by an equiponderant and opposite continent. And, as the +Portuguese had discovered an extensive track by sailing to the +eastwards, he concluded that the opposite or most easterly coast +of that country might certainly be attained, and by a nearer +path, by crossing the Atlantic to the westwards. The result of +this profound conception, by the discovery of America, has been +already detailed in the <i>Second</i> Book of this collection; +and we now proceed in this <i>Fourth</i> Book to detail the +various steps of other navigators, in prosecution of this grand +design of surrounding the globe, in which many curious and +interesting discoveries have been made, and by which geographical +knowledge and practical navigation have been brought to great +degrees of perfection.</p> + +<p>Before commencing the narrative appropriated for this division +of our arrangement, it is proper to give the following complete +table of all the circumnavigators, within the period assigned to +the present portion of this collection; with the names of the +ports from which they sailed, and the dates of their respective +voyages, and returns.--Ed.</p> + +<pre> + |Sailed from | |Returned. + 1. Ferdinand, | Seville, | Aug. 10, 1519. | Sept. 8, 1522. + Magellan, | in Spain, | | + 2. Sir Francis | Plymouth Sound, | Dec. 30, 1577. | Sept. 16, 1580. + Drake, | | | + 3. Sir Thomas | Plymouth, | July 25, 1586. | Sept. 9, 1588. + Candish, | | | + 4. Oliver van | Goeree, | Sept. 13, 1598. | Aug. 26, 1601. + Noord, | | | + 5. George | Texel, | Aug. 8, 1614. | July 1, 1617. + Spilbergeny,| | | + 6. Shouten and | Texel, | June 24, 1615. | July 1, 1617. + LeMair, | | | + 7. Nassau | Goeree, | April 29, 1623. | Jan. 21, 1626. + fleet, | | | + 8. Cowley,[A] | Achamack, in | Aug. 23, 1683. | Oct. 12, 1686. + | Virginia, | | + 9. William | Achamack, | Aug. 28, 1683. | Sept. 16, 1691. + Dampier,[A] | | | + 10. Dampier and | the Downs, | Aug. 9, 1703. | Aug. 1706. + Funnel, | | | + ll. Wood Rogers,| Bristol, | June 15, 1708. | Oct. 1, 1711. + and Courtney,| | | + 12. John | Plymouth, | Feb. 15, 1719. | June, 1722. + Clapperton, | | | + 13. George | Plymouth, | Feb. 15, 1719. | Aug. 1, 1722. + Shelvocke | | | + 14. Roggewein, | Texel, | July 17, 1721. | July 11, 1723. + 15. George | St Helens, | Sept. 18, 1740. | June 15, 1744. + Anson, | | | +</pre> + +<blockquote>[Footnote A: These two are conjoined in Chap. VIII. +of this book, for reasons which will appear there sufficiently +obvious.--E.]</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>VOYAGE OF FERDINAND MAGELLAN ROUND THE WORLD, IN +1519--1522.[1]</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Some Account of Magellan, precious to the Commencement of +his Voyage.</i></p> + +<p>Owing to the discoveries made under the authority of the +sovereign of Castile, the Portuguese were excessively jealous of +the safety of their possessions in the East Indies. At length, +after various negociations, the authority of the pope was +interposed, then considered as supreme among the princes of +Europe who were in communion with the church of Rome. By a bull +or papal decree, all countries discovered, or to be discovered, +in the East, were declared to belong to the crown of Portugal, +and all that were found in the west were to be the property of +Spain. Yet this measure rather smothered than extinguished the +flames of contention; as both courts readily listened to any +proposals that tended to aggrandise the one at the expence of the +other. This spirit of contention between the courts of Spain and +Portugal, gave occasion to several men of enterprise, who +happened to be dissatisfied by the delays or refusal of either of +these courts, in countenancing their projects, to apply +themselves for employment to the other. Among those who took this +method of advancing their fortunes, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, now +generally known by the name of Magellan. He was a gentleman of +good family in Portugal, who had addicted himself from his youth +to maritime affairs, and had acquired great skill both in the +theory and practice of navigation. He seemed formed by nature for +the achievement of great exploits, having all the qualities +requisite to compose the character of a truly great man. With a +courage which no danger could appal, he possessed the utmost +calmness of temper and sweetness of disposition, by which all who +conversed with him were engaged to love and esteem his character. +He was naturally eloquent, both in illustrating and proving the +reasonableness of his own opinions, and in converting others from +their erroneous preconceived notions. Above all, he possessed +that steady and persevering resolution, which not only enabled +him to vanquish the greatest difficulties, but gave such +appearance of success to every thing be promised or undertook, as +secured the confidence of all who were under his command. As +these extraordinary qualities would have distinguished him in any +station of life, so they were remarkably useful in the present +enterprise, by which he gained immortal reputation, although he +lost his life before its completion.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 1: Harris' Collection, I. 6. The utmost +pains have been taken to narrate this expedition in the clearest +manner, by comparing all the different relations of the Spanish +and Portuguese writers. We regret much, however, the loss of a +large history of this voyage, by P. Martyr, which was burnt in +the sack of Rome, when taken by the Constable de +Bourbon.--<i>Harris</i>.]</blockquote> + +<p>Don Ferdinand Magellan had served with much credit in India, +under the famous Albuquerque, and thought that he merited some +recompence for his services; but all his applications were +treated with coldness and contempt by the great, which was +intolerable to a person of his spirit. He associated, therefore, +with men of like fortunes, whose merits had been similarly +neglected, and particularly with one Ray Falero, a great +astronomer, whom the Portuguese represented as a conjuror, +retiring along with him to the Spanish court, where be made +propositions for new discoveries to Cardinal Ximenes, who was +then prime minister of Spain. The Portuguese ambassador used all +imaginable pains to counteract these designs, and solicited the +court to deliver up Magellan and his companion as deserters, even +representing Magellan as a bold talkative person, ready to +undertake any thing, yet wanting capacity and courage for the +performance of his projects. He even made secret proposals to +Magellan, offering him pardon and great rewards to desist from +his present purpose, and to return to the service of his own +sovereign. All these arts were unavailing, as the Spanish +ministry, now competent judges of these matters, were satisfied +of the probability of the discoveries proposed by Magellan and +his coadjutor Falero, who were both received into favour, made +knights of the order of St Jago, and had their own terms granted +to them.</p> + +<p>The grounds on which this expedition was founded were as +follow. The opinion advanced by Columbus, of the possibility of +reaching the East Indies by sailing to the west, was assumed as +certainly well founded, though he had not been able to accomplish +it; and it was asserted, that it could not be attended with any +insuperable difficulty to sail from the South Sea, then recently +discovered, to the Molucca Islands. The grand desideratum was to +find a passage westwards, from the Atlantic Ocean into the +new-found South Sea, which they expected might be met with +through the Rio de la Plata, or by some other opening on that +eastern coast of South America. Should this succeed, Spain might +then reap the benefit of both the Indies; since, if this +discovery were made by way of the <i>west</i>, it would then fall +expressly within the grant of the papal bull to Spain.</p> + +<p>In consequence of these proposals, it was agreed that Magellan +and the other adventurers were to be furnished by the crown of +Spain with five ships, manned by 234 men, with provisions for two +years; and that the adventurers should reap a twentieth part of +the clear profit, the government of any islands they might +discover to be vested in them and their heirs for ever, with the +title of Adelantado. The agreed, fleet of five ships was +accordingly fitted out for the expedition at Seville, consisting +of the Trinidada, in which Magellan sailed as admiral, and having +a Portuguese pilot named Stephen Gomez; the Santa Vittoria, +commanded by Don Luis de Mendoza; the St Antonio, Don Juan de +Carthagena; the St Jago, Don Juan Serrano; and the Conception, +Don Gaspar de Quixada. According to some authors, the number of +men in these five ships amounted to 237, though by most they are +said to have been 250, among whom were thirty Portuguese, upon +whom Magellan chiefly depended for naval skill; as he likewise +did greatly upon Serrano, who had left the service of Portugal in +like manner with himself, after having served for many years in +India, and some time in the Moluccas, of which islands they were +now going in search.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings of the Voyage from Seville to Patagonia, and +wintering there</i>.</p> + +<p>Great hopes of success were entertained from this voyage, from +the known experience of the commanders, although its real object +was carefully concealed by Magellan, who merely gave out to the +other adventurers that it was intended for the discovery of new +countries, by which they believed themselves bound to the certain +acquisition of gold. They set sail from Seville, in high +expectations of acquiring riches, on the 10th of August, 1519. +The 3d October, the fleet arrived between Cape Verd and the +islands of that name. After being detained by tedious calms on +the coast of Guinea for seventy days, they at last got to the +south of the line, and held on their course to the coast of +Brazil, of which they came in sight in about the latitude of +23° S. They here procured abundant refreshments of fruits, +sugar-canes, and several kinds of animals.</p> + +<p>Proceeding about 2 1/2 degrees farther south, they came into a +country inhabited by a wild sort of people, of prodigious +stature, fierce and barbarous, and making a strange roaring +noise, more like the bellowing of bulls, than human speech. +Notwithstanding their prodigious bulk, these people were so +nimble that none of the Spaniards or Portuguese were swift enough +to overtake them. At this place there was a fine river of fresh +water, the mouth of which was fully seventeen leagues wide, in +which there were seven islands, the largest of which they named +the island of St Mary, where they procured some <i>jewels</i>.[2] +Proceeding along this coast towards the south, they fell in with +two islands so abounding in seals and penguins, that they might +have laden all their five ships with them in a short time. The +penguins are a black, heavy, unwieldy fowl, extremely fat, +covered with a sort of down instead of feathers, and having a +bill like that of a raven; drawing their entire subsistence from +the sea, as fish is their only food.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 2: These jewels may possibly have been a +few pearls. The indications in the text are too vague to afford +even a guess at the situation of the river and its seven islands; +only it may be mentioned, that the most northern part of the +coast of Patagonia is in lat. 38° S. and that no river +answering the description in the test is to be found on all that +coast--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They next advanced to about the latitude of 49° 30' S. +where they were forced to remain for five months, owing to the +severity of the weather, it being now winter in these southern +parts. They here passed their time very unpleasantly, and for a +long time believed the country to be uninhabited, but at length a +savage came to visit them. He was a brisk jolly fellow, very +merrily disposed, and came towards them singing and dancing. On +coming to the shore of the haven in which the ships had taken +refuge, he stood there for some time, throwing dust upon his +head. This being observed, some persons were sent ashore to him +in a boat, and making similar signs of peace; and he came along +with them on board, without any appearance of fear or hesitation. +The size and stature of this person was such as in some measure +entitled him to be deemed a giant, the head of one of the +ordinary-sized Spaniards only reaching to his waist, and he was +proportionally large made. His body was painted all over, having +a stag's horn delineated on each cheek, and large circles round +the eyes. The natural colour of his skin was yellow, and his hair +was white. His apparel consisted of the skin of a beast, clumsily +sewed together, covering his whole body and limbs from head to +foot. The beast of which this was the skin, was as strange as the +wearer, being neither mule, horse, nor camel, but partaking of +all three, having the ears of a mule, the tail of a horse, and +the body shaped like a camel. The arms of this savage consisted +of a stout bow, having for a string the gut or sinew of that +strange beast; and the arrows were tipped with sharp stones, +instead of iron heads.</p> + +<p>The admiral made this man be presented with meat and drink, of +which he readily partook, and seemed to enjoy himself very +comfortably, till happening to see himself in a mirror which was +given him among other toys, he was so frightened that he started +back and overturned two of the men, and did not easily recover +his composure. This giant fared so well, that several others came +to visit the ships, and one of them behaved with so much +familiarity and good humour, that the Europeans were much pleased +with him. This person shewed them one of the beasts in the skins +of which they were cloathed, from which the foregoing description +must have been taken.[3] Being desirous to make prisoners of some +of these giants, Magellan gave orders for this purpose to some of +his crew. Accordingly, while amusing them with toys, they put +iron shackles on their legs, which at first they conceived had +been fine ornaments like the rest, and seemed pleased with their +jingling sound, till they found themselves hampered and betrayed. +They then fell a bellowing like bulls, and imploring the aid of +<i>Setebos</i> in this extremity, whom they must therefore have +conceived some good and compassionate being, as it is not to be +conceived they would crave relief from an evil spirit. Yet the +voyagers reported strange things, of horrible forms and +appearances frequently seen among these people, such as horned +demons with long shaggy hair, throwing out fire before and +behind: But these seem mere dreams or fables.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 3: This must have been a Lama, Paca, or +Chilihueque, of the camel genus, vulgarly called Peruvian +sheep.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Most of the natives of this country were dressed in the skins +of beasts, similarly to the one who first visited them. Their +hair was short, yet tied up by a cotton lace or string. They had +no fixed dwellings, but used certain moveable huts or tents, +constructed of skins similar to those in which they were +cloathed, which they carry with them from place to place, as they +roam about the country. What flesh they are able to procure, they +devour quite raw without any kind of cookery, besides which their +chief article of food is a sweet root, which they name +<i>capar.</i> The voyagers report that these savages were very +jealous of their women; yet do not mention having seen any. Their +practice of physic consists in bleeding and vomiting: The former +being performed by giving a good chop with some edge tool to the +part affected; and the latter is excited by thrusting an arrow +half a yard down the throat of the patient. These people, to whom +Magellan gave the name of <i>Patagons</i>, are so strong, that +when one only was attempted to be made prisoner of by nine +Spaniards, he tired them all; and, though they got him down, and +even bound his hands, he freed himself from his bonds, and got +away, in spite of every endeavour to detain him. Besides +<i>capar</i>, the name of a root already mentioned, and which +likewise they applied to the bread or ship's biscuit given them +by the Spaniards, the only words reported of their language are +<i>ali</i> water, <i>amel</i> black, <i>cheiche</i> red, +<i>cherecai</i> red cloth; and <i>Setebos</i> and <i>Cheleule</i> +are the names of two beings to whom they pay religious respect, +<i>Setebos</i> being the supreme, and <i>Cheleule</i> an inferior +deity.</p> + +<p>The haven in which they remained there five months, was named +by Magellan, Port St Julian, of which and the surrounding country +they took solemn possession for the crown of Spain, erecting a +cross as a signal of sovereignty. But the principal reason of +this long stay was in consequence of a mutiny which broke out, +not only among the common men, but was even joined or fomented +rather by some of the captains, particularly by Don Luis de +Mendoza, on whom Magellan had placed great reliance. On this +occasion Magellan acted with much spirit; for, having reduced the +mutineers to obedience, he brought their ringleaders to trial for +plotting against his life; hanged Don Luis de Mendoza and a few +others of the most culpable; leaving Don Juan de Carthagena and +others, who were not so deeply implicated, among the Patagons. +The weather growing fine, and the people being reduced to +obedience, Magellan set sail from Port St Julian, and pursued his +course to the latitude of 51° 40' S. where finding a +convenient port, with abundance of fuel, water, and fish, he +remained for two months longer.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Prosecution of the Voyage, till the Death of +Magellan</i>.</p> + +<p>Again resuming the voyage, they proceeded along the eastern +shore of Patagonia to the latitude of 52° S. when the +entrance into the famous straits still known under the name of +Magellan were discovered, through which the squadron continued +its voyage, finding these straits about 110 leagues in length, +from east to west, with varying breadths, in some places very +wide, and in others not more than half a league across; the land +on both sides being high, rugged, and uneven, and the mountains +covered with snow. On reaching the western end of these straits, +an open passage was found into the great South Sea, which sight +gave Magellan the most unbounded joy, as having discovered that +for which he had gone in quest, and that he was now able +practicably to demonstrate what he had advanced, that it was +possible to sail to the East Indies by way of the West. To the +point of land from which he first saw this so-long-desired +prospect, he gave the name of <i>Cape Desiderato.</i> This +prospect was not, however, so desirable to some of his followers; +for here one of his ships stole away, and sailed homewards +alone.</p> + +<p>Magellan entered the great South Sea on the 28th November, +1620, and proceeded through that vast expanse, to which he gave +the name of the Pacific Ocean, for three months and twenty days, +without once having sight of land. During a considerable part of +this period they suffered extreme misery from want of provisions, +such as have been seldom heard of. All their bread and other +provisions were consumed, and they were reduced to the necessity +of subsisting upon dry skins and leather that covered some of the +rigging of the ships, which they had to steep for some days in +salt water, to render it soft enough to be chewed. What water +remained in the ships was become putrid, and so nauseous that +necessity alone compelled them to use it. Owing to these impure +and scanty means of subsistence, their numbers daily diminished, +and those who remained alive became exceedingly weak, +low-spirited, and sickly. In some, the gums grew quite over their +teeth on both sides; so that they were unable to chew the tough +leathern viands which formed their only food, and they were +miserably starved to death. Their only comfort under this +dreadful state of famine was, that the winds blew them steadily +and gently along, while the sea remained calm and almost +unruffled, whence it got the name of Pacific, which it has ever +since retained.</p> + +<p>In all this length of time, they only saw two uninhabited +islands, which shewed no signs of affording them any relief +Sometimes the needle varied extremely, and at other times was so +irregular in its motions, as to require frequent touches of the +loadstone to revive its energy. No remarkable star was found near +the south pole, by which to ascertain the southern ordinal point, +or to estimate the latitude. Instead of an antarctic polar star, +two clusters of small stars were observed, having a small space +between them, in which were two stars of inconsiderable size and +lustre, which seemed to be at no great distance from the pole, by +the smallness of the circle they described in their diurnal +course. When at the distance of 20° from the south pole, they +saw a high island to which they gave the name of <i>Cipangue</i>; +and at 15° another equally high, which they named +<i>Sinnodit</i>.[4] They sailed in one gulf; or stretch of sea, +at least 4000 leagues, and made their longitude, by estimation or +reckoning, 120° W. from the place of their original +departure. By this time they drew near the equinoctial line, and +having got beyond that into 13° N. latitude, they made for +the cape called <i>Cottigare</i> by old geographers; but missing +it in that old account of its latitude, they understood +afterwards that it is in the latitude of 12° N.[5]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 4: The text is evidently here erroneous, as +Magellan entered the Pacific Ocean in lat. 47° S. and there +is not the smallest reason to suspect he had been forced into the +latitudes of 70° and 75° S. Instead therefore of the +south pole, we ought probably to understand the equator. As these +two islands were uninhabited, the names given them must have been +imposed by Magellan or his associates. Cipangue is the name given +to Japan by Marco Polo, and is of course a singular blunder. The +other is unintelligible, and the voyage is so vaguely expressed, +as even to defy conjecture.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 5: This cape Cottigare in the South Sea, in +lat. 12° or 13° N. is utterly unintelligible, unless it +refer to the southern part of Guam, Guaham, or Goad, one of the +Ladronea, which they soon discovered, and which is actually in +13° N.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 6th March, 1521, they fell in with a cluster of +islands, being then in lat. 12° N. and 146° of west +longitude from the place of their first setting out.[6] These +islands were called by Magellan <i>Islas de los Ladrones</i>, or +the islands of robbers, and are called in modern geography the +Ladrones or Marian islands. They here went on shore to refresh +themselves, after all the fatigues and privations of their +tedious voyage through the Pacific Ocean; but the thievish +disposition of the islanders would not allow them any quiet +repose, as they were continually stealing things from the ships, +while the sick and worn-out mariners were endeavouring to refresh +themselves on shore. Resolving therefore to deliver themselves +from the disturbance of these pilferers, they marched a small +party of armed men into the interior of one of these islands, +where they burnt some houses, and slew some of the natives. But, +though this correction awed them a little for the present, it did +not mend their thievish disposition; for which reason they +resolved to seek out some other place, where they might enjoy +some repose in safety.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 6: By the reckoning in the text, the +longitude of the Ladrone islands, which they now discovered, +would be 151° 25' W. from Greenwich. But their true longitude +is 216° 30' W. Their latitude is between 13° and 20° +50' N.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>No order or form of government was observed to subsist among +these natives of the Ladrones, but every one seemed to live +according to his own humour or inclination. The men were entirely +naked, the hair both of their heads and beards being black, that +on their heads so long as to reach down to their waists. Their +natural complexion is olive, and they anoint themselves all over +with cocoa-nut oil. Their teeth seemed coloured artificially +black or red, and some of them wore a kind of bonnet made of palm +leaves. The women are better favoured and more modest than the +men, and all of them wore some decent coverings made of palm +leaves. Their hair was black, thick, and so very long as nearly +to trail on the ground. They seemed careful industrious +housewives, spending their time at home in fabricating mats and +nets of palm leaves, while the men were occupied abroad in +stealing. Their houses are of timber, covered with boards and +great leaves, and divided within into several apartments. Their +beds are of mats laid above each other, and they use palm leaves +by way of sheets. Their only weapons are clubs, and long poles +headed with bone. Their food consists of cocoa-nuts, bananas, +figs, sugar-canes, fowls, and flying-fishes. Their canoes are +oddly contrived and patched up, yet sail with wonderful rapidity, +the sails being made of broad leaves sewed together. Instead of a +rudder they use a large board, with a staff or pole at one end, +and in sailing, either end of their canoes is indifferently used +as head or stern. They paint their canoes all over, either red, +white, or black, as hits their fancy. These people are so taken +with any thing that is new, that when the Spaniards wounded +several of them with their arrows, and even pierced some quite +through, they would pluck out the arrows from their wounds, and +stare at them till they died. Yet would they still continue to +follow after the ships, to gaze upon them as they were going +away, so that at one time they were closely surrounded by at +least two hundred canoes filled with natives, admiring those +wonderful contrivances.</p> + +<p>The 10th of March, the Spaniards landed on the island of +<i>Zamul</i>, about 30 leagues from the Ladrones.[7] Next day +they landed on <i>Humuna</i>, an island not inhabited, yet well +deserving of being so, where they found springs of excellent +water, with abundance of fruit-trees, gold, and white coral. +Magellan named this <i>the island of good signs</i>. The natives +from some of the neighbouring islands, a people of much humanity, +came here to them shortly after, very fair and of friendly +dispositions, who seemed well pleased at the arrival of the +Spaniards among them, and came loaded with presents of fish, and +wine made from the cocoa-tree, promising speedily to bring other +provisions. This tree somewhat resembles the date palm, and +supplies the natives with bread, oil, wine, vinegar, and even +physic. The wine being drawn from the tree itself, and all the +rest from the fruit or nut. To procure the wine, they eat off +part of a branch, and fasten to the remaining part a large reed +or hollow cane, into which the liquor drops, being like +white-wine in colour, and of a grateful tartish taste. When a +good quantity of this is drawn off, it is put into a vessel, and +is their cocoa-wine without farther preparation.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 7: In this voyage the term Ladrones seems +confined to the most southern islands of this group, as there are +no other islands for a very considerable distance in any +direction. The entire group stretches about 6° 10' nearly N. +and S. or 125 leagues. In modern geography, Guaham and Tinian are +the largest islands of the group. Urac, Agrigan, Analajam, and +Saypan, are the names of some others of the Ladrones. The names +in the text do not occur in modern maps. Thirty leagues from +Guaham, the southernmost island, would bring them to +Tinian.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The fruit, which is as large as a man's head, has two rinds or +coats. The outermost is green, and two fingers thick, entirely +composed of strings and threads, of which they make all the ropes +that are used in their canoes. Under this there is another rind, +or shell rather, of considerable thickness, and very hard. This +they burn and pulverize, and use it in this state as a remedy for +several distempers. The kernel adheres all round the inside of +this shell, being white, and about the thickness of a finger, +having a pleasant taste, almost like an almond: this, when dried, +serves the islanders instead of bread. In the inside of this +kernel there is a considerable hollow space, containing a +quantity of pure limpid liquor, of a very cordial and refreshing +nature, which sometimes congeals into a solid, and then lies like +an egg within the hollow kernel. When they would make oil, they +steep the fruit in water till it putrifies, and then boil it over +the fire to separate the oil, the remaining water becoming +vinegar, when exposed some time to the sun. Lastly, by mixing the +kernel with the liquor lodged within its cavity, and straining it +through a cloth, they make a very good milk. The cocoa-nut tree +resembles the date palm, except in not being so rugged and +knotty. They will continue to thrive for an hundred years, or +more, and two of them will maintain a family of ten persons in +wine plentifully, if used by turns, each tree being drawn for +seven or eight days, and then allowed to rest as long.</p> + +<p>According to their promise, the islanders returned with a +farther supply of provisions, and entered into much familiar +cordiality with the Spaniards. A number of them having been +invited on board the admiral's ship, a gun was discharged by way +of entertaining them, but put them in such terror, that they were +ready to leap over board, yet were soon reconciled by good usage +and presents. The name of their island was <i>Zulvan</i>, of no +great compass; yet considerable for its productions. They had in +their barks various kinds of spices, as cinnamon, cloves, +nutmegs, ginger, and mace, with several ornaments made of gold, +which they carried up and down to sell as merchandise. Although +without apparel, these people were dressed, or ornamented rather, +in a more costly manner than Europeans; for they had gold +earrings in each ear, and various jewels fastened by means of +gold to their arms; besides which, their daggers, knives, and +lances were richly ornamented with the same metal.[8] Their only +cloathing consisted of a kind of apron, of a species of cloth +made very ingeniously from the rind of a tree. The most +considerable men among them were distinguished from the common +people by a piece of silk ornamented with needle-work, wrapped +round their heads. These islanders were gross, broad; and well +set on their limbs, of an olive complexion, having their bodies +constantly rubbed over with cocoa-nut oil.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 8: It is highly probable that the valuable +spiceries, gold, and jewels, of the text, are mere fables, +invented by Pigafetta, to enhance the value of his voyage, as +such productions are now unknown to the Ladrone +islands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Departing from this place on the 21st March, 1521, and +steering between west and south-west, they passed among the +islands named <i>Cenalo, Huinanghan, Hibussan,</i> and +<i>Abarian.</i>[9] The 28th, they came to the isle of +<i>Buthuan,</i> where they were kindly received by the king and +prince, who gave them considerable quantities of gold and spices; +in return for which, Magellan presented the king with two cloth +vests, giving knives, mirrors, and glass beads to the courtiers. +Along with the king and his nobles, Magellan sent two persons on +shore, one of whom was Antonio Pigafetta, the historian of the +voyage. On landing, the king and his attendants all raised their +hands to heaven, and then the two Christians, who imitated this +ceremony, which was afterwards observed in drinking. The king's +palace was like a great hay-loft, mounted so high upon great +posts of timber, that they had to go up by means of ladders, and +was thatched with palm-leaves. Though not Christians, these +islanders always made the sign of the cross at their meals, at +which they sat cross-legged like tailors. At night, instead of +candles, they burnt a certain gum of a tree, wrapped up in +palm-leaves. After entertaining them in their respective palaces, +the king and prince of <i>Buthuan</i> dismissed Pigafetta and his +companion with noble presents, filled with admiration of their +guests, whom they believed to be men above the rank of common +mortals, being especially astonished at Pigafetta's writing, and +reading what he had written, which was too mysterious for their +comprehension.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 9: Not one of these islands is known to +modern geography; and the whole of this voyage is related so +loosely and unsatisfactorily, that it is impossible to trace its +course, except at well-known places.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this island, by sifting the earth of a certain mine, they +procured great lumps of gold, some as large as walnuts, and some +even as big as eggs; all the vessels used by the king at table +being made of this precious metal.[10] The king of this island +was a very comely personage, of an olive complexion, with long +black hair, his body being perfumed with the odoriferous oils of +storax and benzoin, and painted with various colours. He had +gold-rings in his ears, and three rings of that metal on each of +his fingers. His head was wrapped round by a silken veil or +turban, and his body was cloathed to the knees in a cotton +wrapper, wrought with silk and gold. He wore at his side a sword +or dagger, with a haft of gold, and a scabbard of carved wood. +This country is so rich, that one of the natives offered a crown +of massy gold in exchange for six strings of glass beads; but +Magellan would not allow such bargains, lest the Spaniards might +appear too greedy of gold.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 10: These stories of gold in such wonderful +abundance, are obvious falsehoods contrived by Pigafetta, either +to excite wonderment, or to procure the command of an expedition +of discovery; a practice we have formerly had occasion to notice +in the early Spanish conquests and settlements in +America.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The natives were active and sprightly, the common men being +quite naked, except painting their bodies; but the women are +cloathed from the waist downwards, and both sexes wore gold +ear-rings. They all continually chewed <i>areka</i>, a fruit like +a pear, which they cut in quarters, rolling it up in a leaf +called <i>betel</i>, resembling a bay-leaf, alleging that they +could not live without this practice. The only religious rite +observed among them, was looking up to heaven, to which they +raised their joined hands, and calling on their god <i>Abba</i>. +Magellan caused a banner of the cross, with the crown of thorns +and the nails, to be exposed and publicly reverenced by all his +men in the king's presence; desiring the king to have it erected +on the top of a high mountain in the island, as a token that +Christians might expect good entertainment in that country, and +also as a security for the nation; since, if they prayed to it +devoutly, it would infallibly protect them against lightning and +tempests, and other evils. This the king promised should be done, +knowing no better, and glad to be so easily defended from +thunderbolts.</p> + +<p>Leaving this island, and conducted by the king's pilots, the +Spaniards came to the isles of <i>Zeilon, Zubut, Messana,</i> and +<i>Caleghan</i>, of which <i>Zubut</i> was the best, and enjoyed +the best trade. In <i>Massana</i>, they found dogs, cats, hogs, +poultry, goats, rice, ginger, cocoa-nuts, millet, panic, barley, +figs, oranges, wax, and plenty of gold. This island lies in lat. +9° 40' N. and in long. 162° from their first +meridian.[11] After remaining here eight days, they sailed to the +N.W. passing the islands of <i>Zeilon, Bohol, Canghu, Barbai</i>, +and <i>Caleghan</i>; in which last islands there are bats as +large as eagles, which they found to eat, when dressed, like +poultry. In this island, among various other birds, there was one +kind resembling our hens, but having small horns, which bury +their eggs in the sand, where they are hatched by the heat of the +sun. <i>Caleghan</i> is about twenty miles W. from +<i>Messana</i>; and <i>Zubut</i>, to which they now directed +their course, fifty leagues W. from <i>Caleghan</i>. In this part +of the voyage they were accompanied by the king of +<i>Messana</i>, whom Magellan had greatly attached to him by many +services.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 11: This is 16° of longitude beyond the +Ladrones, which are in 216° 30' W. and would consequently +give the longitude of Zubut as 232° 30' W. or 107° 30' E. +from Greenwich. Yet from what appears afterwards, they seem to +have been now among the Philippine islands, the most easterly of +which are in long. 126° E. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They entered the port of <i>Zubut</i> on the 7th April, and on +coming near the city all the great guns were fired, which put the +inhabitants into great consternation. This, however, was soon +quieted, by the arrival of a messenger at the city from the +ships, who assured the king of <i>Zubut</i> that this was an +ordinary piece of respect to his dignity, whom they had come to +visit on their way to the Moluccas, hearing of his fame from the +king of <i>Messana</i>. The messenger also desired that the +Spaniards might be furnished with provisions, in exchange for +their commodities. The king then observed, that it was customary +for all ships that came to his port to pay tribute, which custom +he expected they would comply with as well as others. To this the +messenger replied, that the Spanish admiral was the servant of so +powerful a sovereign, that he could make no such acknowledgment +to any prince whatever. That the admiral was willing to be at +peace with him, if he thought proper to accept his friendship: +but if otherwise, he should soon have his fill of war. A certain +Moor, who happened to be present, told the king that these people +were certainly the Portuguese, who had conquered Calicut and +Malacca, and advised him therefore to beware of provoking them to +hostilities; whereupon the king referred the matter to his +council, promising to give an answer next day, and in the +meantime sent victuals and wine aboard the ships.</p> + +<p>The king of Messana, who was a potent prince, went ashore to +confer with the king of Zubut, who in the end became almost ready +to pay tribute instead of demanding it; but Magellan only asked +liberty to trade, which was readily granted. Magellan persuaded +the king and his principal people to become Christians, which +they did after some religious conferences, and were all +afterwards baptised. This example spread over the whole island, +so that in eight days the whole inhabitants became Christians, +except those of one village of idolaters, who absolutely refused. +The Spaniards therefore burnt this village, and erected a cross +on its ruins.[12]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 12: This incredible story has been +considerably abridged on the present occasion, and is too absurd +to merit any commentary.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The people of this island deal justly with each other, having +the use of weights and measures. Their houses are of timber, +raised high in the air on posts, so that they ascend to them by +ladders. They told us of a certain sea-fowl in this country, +called <i>Lughan</i>, about the size of a crow, which the whales +sometimes swallow alive, in consequence of which their hearts are +eaten by this bird; and many whales are killed in this manner, +the bird being afterwards found alive in the carcase of the +whale. The Spaniards drove a most advantageous trade at this +place, receiving from the natives ten pesos of gold, of a ducat +and a half each, in exchange for fourteen pounds of iron; and +procured abundance of provisions for mere trifles.</p> + +<p>Not far from Zabut is the isle of <i>Mathan</i>, the +inhabitants of which go quite naked, except a slight covering in +front, all the males wearing gold-rings hanging to the preputium. +This island was governed by two kings, one of whom refused to pay +tribute to the king of Spain, on which Magellan determined to +reduce him by force of arms. The Indian had an army of between +six and seven thousand men, armed with bows and arrows, darts and +javelins, which Magellan attacked with sixty men, armed with +coats of mail and helmets. The battle was for a long time +doubtful, when at last Magellan advanced too far among the +barbarians, by whom he was at first wounded by a poisoned arrow, +and afterwards thrust into the head by a lance; which at once +closed the life and actions of this noble commander. About eight +or nine of the Christians were slain in this engagement, besides +many wounded. After this disaster the Spaniards ineffectually +attempted to redeem the body of their unfortunate admiral; and +the other king, who had embraced the Christian religion without +understanding its tenets, abandoned it upon this reverse of +fortune to the Spaniards, and made peace with his rival, engaging +to put all the Christians to death. With this view, he invited +the Spaniards to a banquet, when he made them all be cruelly +murdered, only reserving Don Juan Serrano alive, in order to +procure a supply of artillery and ammunition for his ransom. With +these conditions the Spaniards would have willingly complied, but +found so much prevarication and treachery in the conduct of the +natives, and were so intimidated by the miserable fate of their +companions, that they put to sea, leaving the unfortunate Serrano +to his miserable fate.</p> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Continuation of the Voyage to its Conclusion</i>.</p> + +<p>A little before the death of Magellan, news were received of +the Moluccas, the great object of this voyage. Leaving Mathan, +they sailed for the island of <i>Bohol</i>, where they burnt the +Conception, one of their ships, transferring its men, ammunition, +and provisions into the other two. Directing their course from +thence to the S.W. they came to the island of <i>Paviloghon</i>, +inhabited by negroes. From thence they came to a large island +named <i>Chippit</i>, in lat. 8° N. about 50 leagues W. from +Zabut, and about 170° of longitude from their first +departure.[13] This island abounds in rice, ginger, goats, hogs, +hens, &c. and the Spaniards were kindly received by the king, +who, in token of peace, marked his body, face, and the tip of his +tongue, with blood which he drew from his left arm; in which +ceremony he was imitated by the Spaniards. Sailing about 40 +leagues from thence between the W. and S.W. or W.S.W. they came +to a very large island, named <i>Caghaian</i>, thinly inhabited. +The inhabitants were Mahometans, exiles from Borneo, rich in +gold, and using poisoned arrows; a common practice in most of +these islands. Sailing W.N.W. from this island 25 leagues, they +came to <i>Puloan</i>, a fruitful island in lat. 9° 20' N. +and 179° 20' of longitude W. from their first departure.[14] +This island yields much the same productions as Chippit, together +with large figs, battatos, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes; and they +make a kind of wine of rice, which is very intoxicating, yet +better than palm-wine. The natives go entirely naked, use +poisoned arrows, and are greatly addicted to cock-fighting.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 13: Bohal is one of the Philippine islands, +in lat. 10° N. and long. 123° 50' E. from Greenwich. +Paviloghon and Chippit must accordingly refer to some islands of +the same group farther west.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 14: Pulcan, Pulowan, or Paragua, the +westermost of the Philippines, an island of considerable extent, +in lat. 10° N. and long. 119° E. from Greenwich. From the +direction of the voyage, the great island of Chaghaian of the +text, was probably that now called Magindano.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They came next to the great and rich island of Borneo, in lat. +5° 5' N. the chief city containing not less than 25,000 +houses. The king was a Mahometan of great power, keeping a +magnificent court; and was always attended by a numerous guard. +He sent several presents to the Spanish captains, and made two +elephants be led out with rich silk trappings, to bring the +Spanish messengers and presents to his palace. He has ten +secretaries of state, who write every thing concerning his +affairs on the bark of trees. His household is managed by women, +who are the daughters of his principal courtiers. This country +affords camphor, which is the gum of a tree called <i>Capar</i>; +as also cinnamon, ginger, myrabolans, oranges, lemons, sugar, +cucumbers, melons, and other fruits, with abundance of beasts and +birds, and all other products of the equinoctial climate. The +natives continually chew betel and areka, and drink arrack.</p> + +<p>Leaving Borneo, they went to the island of <i>Cimbubon</i>, +in, lat. 8° 7' N.[15] where they remained forty days, +caulking and repairing their ships, and taking in a supply of +fresh water. In the woods of this isle they found a tree, the +leaves of which, when they fall to the ground, move from place to +place as if alive. They resemble the leaves of the mulberry, +having certain fibres produced from their sides resembling legs, +and suddenly spring away when touched. Pigafetta, the author of +this relation, kept one of these leaf-animals in a dish for eight +days.[16] This isle produces ostriches, wild hogs, and +crocodiles. They caught here a fish having a head like a sow, +with two horns, its body consisting of one entire bone, and +having a substance on its back resembling a saddle.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 15: Perhaps Balambangan, in 8° 20' +N.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 16: Harris observes, that this account is +quite incredible: Yet it is certainly true that an insect of this +description exists, though not the leaf of a tree, as erroneously +supposed by Pigafetta.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From hence they sailed to certain islands named <i>Salo +Taghima</i>, which produce fine pearls, and from whence the king +of Borneo once procured two large round pearls, nearly as big as +eggs. They came next to a harbour in the island of +<i>Sarangani</i>, reported to yield both pearls and gold. At this +place they pressed two pilots to conduct them to the Moluccas; +and passing the islands named <i>Ceana, Canida, Cabiaia, Camuca, +Cabalu, Chiari, Lipan</i>, and <i>Nuza</i>, they came to a fair +isle in lat 3° 20' N. named <i>Sangir</i>.[17] Passing five +other islands, they at last espied a cluster of five islands, +which they were informed by the pilots were the Moluccas. This +was on the 6th November, 1521, twenty-seven months after their +departure from Spain. Trying the depth of the sea in the +neighbourhood of these islands, they found it no less than +fifty-one fathoms; though the Portuguese report that this sea is +too shallow for being navigated, and is besides rendered +extremely dangerous by numerous rocks and shelves, and by +continual darkness; doubtless to deter any other nation from +attempting to go there.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 17: Sangir is in lat. 8° 35' N. and +long. 125° 25 E. from Greenwich. The other islands enumerated +in the text do not occur in modern maps.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They came to anchor in the port of <i>Tiridore</i> [Tidore] on +the 8th November, this being one of the chief of the Molucca +islands. Although a Mahometan, the king of this island was so +fond of the Spaniards, that he invited them to come on shore as +into their own country, and to use the houses as their own, +calling them his brethren and children; even changing the name of +his island from Tidore to Castile. These Molucca islands are five +in number, <i>Ternate, Tidore, Mortir, Makian</i>, and +<i>Batchian</i>. Ternate is the chief of these islands, and its +king once ruled over them all; but at this time Mortir and Makian +were commonwealths, but Batchian was a separate monarchy. The +clove-tree is very tall, and as big about as the body of a man, +having large boughs, with leaves resembling those of the +bay-tree, and the bark is of an olive colour. The cloves grow in +large clusters at the extremities of the boughs; being at first +white, but growing red when they come to maturity, and grow black +when dried. While green, the flavour of the wood, bark, and +leaves, is almost as strong as that of the cloves. These are +gathered twice each year, in June and December, and if not taken +in time, become very hard. Every man has his own particular +trees, on which they bestow very little care. They have also in +this isle a peculiar sort of tree, the bark of which, being +steeped in water, may be drawn out in small fibres as fine as +silk; of which the women make themselves a sort of aprons, which +are their only cloathing.</p> + +<p>Near Tidore is the large island of <i>Gilolo</i>, which is +divided between the Mahometans and idolaters. The two Mahometan +kings have themselves contributed liberally to the population of +the island; one of them having 600 children, and the other 650. +The pagans are more moderate in their conduct in this respect +than the Mahometans, and are even less superstitious; yet it is +said that they worship, for the rest of the day, whatever they +first see every morning. In this island there grows a peculiar +sort of reed, as big as a man's leg, which is full of limpid +wholesome water. On the 12th November, a public warehouse was +opened by the Spaniards in the town of Tidore, for the sale of +their merchandise, which were exchanged at the following rates. +For ten yards of good red cloth, they had one bahar of cloves, +containing four cantars or quintals and six pounds; the cantar +being 100 pounds. For fifteen yards of inferior cloth, they had +one bahar. Likewise a bahar for 35 drinking glasses, or for 17 +<i>cathyls</i> of quicksilver. The islanders also brought all +sorts of provisions daily to the ships, together with excellent +water from certain hot springs in the mountains where the cloves +grow. They here received a singular present for the king of +Spain, being two dead birds about the size of turtle-doves, with +small legs and heads and long bills, having two or three long +party-coloured, feathers at each side, instead of wings, all the +rest of their plumage being of a uniform tawny colour. These +birds never fly except when favoured by the wind. The Mahometans +allege that these birds come from Paradise, and therefore call +them the birds of God.</p> + +<p>Besides cloves, the Molucca islands produce ginger, rice, +sago, goats, sheep, poultry, popinjays, white and red figs, +almonds, pomegranates, oranges and lemons, and a kind of honey +which is produced by a species of fly less than ants. Likewise +sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, melons, gourds, and a species of fruit, +called <i>camulical</i>, which is extremely cold. The isle of +Tidore is in lat. 0° 45' N. and long. 127° 10' E.[18] and +about 9° 30' W. from the Ladrones,[19] in a direction nearly +S.W. Formerly the natives of these islands were all heathens, the +Moors or Mahometans having only had footing there for about fifty +years before the arrival of the Spaniards. Ternate is the most +northerly of these islands, and Batchian is almost under the +line, being the largest of them all.[20]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 18: This is the true position, reckoning +the longitude from Greenwich. In the original the longitude is +said to be 170° W. from the first meridian of the voyagers, +being Seville in Spain, which would give 174° E. from +Greenwich; no great error, considering the imperfect way in which +the longitude was then reckoned at sea.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 19: This is a gross error, perhaps of the +press, as the difference of longitude is 16° +30'.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 20: The northern end of Batchian is in lat. +0° 28', and its southern extremity in 0° 40', both +south.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Departing from Tidore, the Spaniards were attended by several +kings in their canoes to the isle of <i>Mare</i>,[21] where this +royal company took leave of them with much apparent regret. In +this isle they left one of their ships which was leaky, giving +orders to have it repaired, for its return to Spain. Being now +reduced to forty-six Spaniards and thirteen Indians, they +directed their course from Mare towards the S.W. passing the +isles named <i>Chacotian, Lagoma, Sico, Gioghi, Caphi, Sulacho, +Lumatola, Tenetum, Bura</i> [Bouro?] <i>Arubon</i> [perhaps +Amboina?] <i>Budia, Celaruri, Benaia, Ambalao, Bandon</i> +[perhaps Banda?] <i>Zorobua, Zolot, Moceuamor, Galian</i>, and +<i>Mullua</i>, besides many others possessed by Mahometans, +heathens, and canibals. They stopped fifteen days at +<i>Mallua</i> to repair their ship, being in 8° N. lat. and +169° long. according to their reckoning. This island produces +much pepper, both long and of the ordinary round kind. The tree +on which it grows climbs like ivy, and its leaf resembles that of +the mulberry. The natives are canibals; the men wearing their +hair and beards; and their only weapons are bows and arrows.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 21: Marhee Foul, a small isle between +Tidore and Motir.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving <i>Mallua</i> [Moa?] on the 25th January, 1522, they +arrived at <i>Tima</i> [Timor?] five leagues to the S.S.W. This +island is in lat. 10° S. and long. 125° E. where they +found ginger, white sanders, various kinds of fruits, and plenty +of gold and provisions of all kinds. The people of the Moluccas, +Java, and <i>Lozen</i> [Luzon, or the principal island of the +Philippines], procure their sanders-wood from hence. The natives +are idolaters, and have the <i>lues venerea</i> among them, which +is a common distemper in all the islands of this great +archipelago.</p> + +<p>Leaving Timor on the 11th February, they got into the great +sea called <i>Lantchidol</i>, steering W.S.W. and leaving the +coast of a long string of islands on the right hand, and taking +care not to sail too near the shore, lest the Portuguese of +Malacca should chance to discover them; wherefore they kept on +the outside of Java and Sumatra. That they might pass the Cape of +Good Hope the more securely, they continued their course W.S.W. +till they got into the latitude of 42° S. though so sore +pinched by hunger and sickness, that some were for putting in at +Mosambique for refreshments; but the majority concluded that the +Portuguese would prove bad physicians for their distempers, and +determined therefore to continue the voyage homewards. In this +course they lost twenty-one of their men, and were at length +constrained to put in at the island of St Jago, one of the Cape +Verds, to throw themselves on the mercy of the Portuguese. So, +venturing ashore, they opened their miserable case to the +Portuguese, who at first relieved their necessities; but the next +time they went on shore, detained all who came as prisoners.</p> + +<p>Those who still remained in the ship, now reduced to thirteen, +having no mind to join their companions in captivity, made all +the haste they could away, and being favoured by the winds, they +arrived in the harbour of San Lucar, near Seville, on the 7th +September, 1522. He who commanded this vessel, which had the good +fortune to return from this remarkable voyage, was Juan Sebastian +Cano, a native of Guetaria in Biscay, a person of much merit and +resolution, who was nobly rewarded by the emperor Charles V. To +perpetuate the memory of this first voyage round the world, the +emperor gave him for his coat of arms the terrestrial globe, with +this motto, <i>Prima me circumdedisti</i>. The newly-discovered +straits at the southern extremity of South America, were at first +named the <i>Straits of Vittori</i>, after the ship which +returned; but they soon lost that name, to assume another which +becomes them much better, in honour of their discoverer, and have +ever since been denominated the <i>Straits of Magellan</i>.</p> + +<p>This most celebrated voyage took up three years and +twenty-seven days, having commenced on the 10th August, 1519, and +concluded on the 7th September, 1522. By its success, the skill +and penetration of the great Columbus, who, only twenty-seven +years before, had first asserted the possibility of its +performance, were fully established. One circumstance was +discovered in this voyage, which, although reason have taught us +to explain, could hardly have been expected <i>a priori</i>. On +the return of the Spaniards to their own country, they found they +had lost a day in their reckoning, owing to the course they had +sailed; whereas had they gone by the east, and returned by the +west, they would have gained a day in their course.</p> + +<p>Another circumstance, which served to heighten the reputation +of Magellan, who deserves the sole honour of this voyage, was the +difficulty experienced by other able commanders, who endeavoured +to fellow the course he had pointed out. The first who made the +attempt were two Genoese ships in 1526, but unsuccessfully. In +1528, Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico, sent two ships with 400 +men, to endeavour to find their way through the straits of +Magellan to the Moluccas, but without effect. Sebastian Cabot +tried the same thing, by order of Emanuel king of Portugal, but +was unable to succeed.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-2" id="chapter4-2">CHAPTER II.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE BY SIR FRANCIS DRAKE ROUND THE WORLD, IN +1577-1580.[22]</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Introduction, and Preparation for the Voyage</i>.</p> + +<p>In his Annals of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the learned +Cambden informs us, that the father of the celebrated Sir Francis +Drake was the Rev. Edmund Drake, vicar of Upnore on the river +Medway, and says he had this information from Sir Francis +himself. Yet the industrious John Stowe says, that he was the +eldest of twelve brethren, the sons of Edmund Drake, mariner, at +Tavistock in Devonshire, and was born in 1540. Perhaps both +accounts may be true; and Mr Edmund Drake, though a mariner +originally, may have had a competent share of learning, and may +have been admitted to orders on the final establishment of the +Reformation.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 22: Hakluyt, IV. 232. Harris, I. p. 14. +Oxford Coll. II. sect. xvi. Callender's Voy. I. 288. The original +account of this voyage was published at London, in 4to, in 1600, +and reprinted in 1618.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This celebrated naval hero received the Christian name of +Francis from his godfather the earl of Bedford, but does not +appear to have derived any great patronage from that nobleman. He +was sent young to sea, as an apprentice to the master of a small +bark, who traded with France and Zealand; and his master, a +bachelor, taking a great affection for him, left him his bark at +his death. At eighteen years of age, he was purser of a ship on a +voyage to the Bay of Biscay, and at twenty made a voyage to the +coast of Guinea. In all these voyages he distinguished himself by +extraordinary courage, and by a sagacity beyond his years. In +1565, his laudable desire of glory induced him to venture his all +in a voyage to the West Indies, which had no success. In 1567, he +served under his kinsman Sir John Hawkins in the bay of Mexico, +but was again unfortunate, returning from the voyage rich in +character and fame, but with almost ruined circumstances. These +disappointments served only to increase his desire of bettering +his fortunes at the expence of the grand enemy of his country, +against whom he made two other voyages into these parts; the +first in 1570 with two ships, the Dragon and Swan and the second +in 1571, in the Swan alone, chiefly for information, that he +might qualify himself for undertaking some enterprize of greater +importance; which he at length carried into execution with great +courage and perseverance.</p> + +<p>His character for bravery and seamanship being now +established, he soon found a sufficient number of persons willing +to adventure a part of their fortunes in a privateering voyage +which he proposed. He accordingly sailed from Plymouth on the +24th May, 1572, in the Pasco, a ship only of seventy tons, having +for his consort the Swan of 250 tons, commanded by his brother +John Drake, with seventy-three men and boys, and provisions for a +year. Such were the mighty preparations he had made for attacking +the power of Spain in the West Indies, in which he considered +himself justified, in order to make reprisals for the losses he +had formerly sustained from the Spaniards. In this voyage he +surprised and plundered the famous town of Nombre de Dios; and +soon afterwards had a distant view of the South Sea from the top +of a high tree, which inflamed him with the desire of conducting +an English ship thither, which attempt he had perhaps never +thought of but for that circumstance.</p> + +<p>In this expedition he acquired immense riches for his owners, +and considerable wealth for himself; and being of an honourable +and generous disposition, he scorned to avail himself of +advantages, which most other men would have considered as their +right. Of this we have the following remarkable instance. Having +presented a cutlass to a captain or caçique of the free +Indians inhabiting the isthmus of Darien, the caçique gave +him in return four large ingots of gold, which he immediately +threw into the common stock, saying, "My owners gave me that +cutlass, and it is just they should receive their share of its +produce." His return to England from this successful expedition +was equally fortunate, as he sailed in twenty-three days from +Cape Florida to the Scilly islands. Arriving at Plymouth on +Sunday, the 9th August, 1573, during divine service, the news of +his return was carried to church, on which few persons remained +with the preacher, all the congregation running out to welcome +the adventurous Drake, who had been absent fourteen months and +sixteen days in this voyage.</p> + +<p>The wealth he gained in this expedition he generously expended +in the service of his country, equipping no less than three +frigates at his own expence, which he commanded in person, and +with which he contributed materially to the reduction of the +rebellion in Ireland, under the supreme command of the earl of +Essex. After the death of that nobleman, he chose Sir Christopher +Hatton for his patron, then vice-chamberlain to the queen, and +afterwards lord high-chancellor of England. By his interest, not +without great opposition, captain Drake obtained a commission +from queen Elizabeth for the voyage of which it is now proposed +to give an account, and which he had long meditated. Being thus +provided with the royal authority, his friends contributed +largely towards the intended expedition, while he applied himself +with all diligence to get every thing in readiness for the +important undertaking; having in view to attack the powerful +monarchy of Spain, in its richest yet most vulnerable possessions +on the western coasts of America, with what would now be +considered a trifling squadron of five small barks.</p> + +<p>The ships, as they were then called, fitted out for this bold +enterprize, were, the Pelican, afterwards named the Hind, of 100 +tons, admiral-ship of the squadron, under his own immediate +command as captain-general; the Elizabeth, vice-admiral, of 80 +tons, commanded by Captain John Winter, who was +lieutenant-general of the expedition; the Marigold, a bark of 30 +tons, Captain John Thomas; the Swan, a fly-boat of 50 tons, +Captain John Chester; and the Christopher, a pinnace of 15 tons, +Captain Thomas Moon. These ships were manned with 164 able-bodied +men, including officers, and were provided with an ample supply +of provisions, ammunition and stores, for so long and dangerous a +voyage. Captain Drake likewise provided the frames of four +pinnaces, which were stowed on board in pieces, ready to be set +up as occasion might require. He is also said to have made +provision for ornament and delight, carrying with him a band of +musicians, together with rich furniture and much silverplate, all +the vessels for his table, and many of those belonging to the +cook-room, being of that metal. This magnificence is stated by +his biographers, to have been intended as a display for the +honour of his country among foreign nations.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage from England to the Straits of +Magellan</i>.</p> + +<p>All things being duly prepared. Captain Drake sailed with his +squadron from Plymouth Sound, about five in the afternoon of the +15th November, 1577, giving out that he was bound for Alexandria +in Egypt, which had been made the pretended object of the voyage, +to prevent the court of Spain from taking measures for its +obstruction. In consequence of a violent storm, in which some of +the ships sustained damage, he was forced to put into Falmouth +haven, whence he returned to Plymouth. Having repaired all +defects, he once more set sail on the 13th December of the same +year. Avoiding as much as possible to come near the land too +early, he fell in with Cape Cantin, on the Barbary coast, on the +25th, and came to the island of Mogadore on the 27th. In the +channel of one mile broad, between that island and the main, he +found a convenient harbour, where he caused one of his pinnaces +to be built.</p> + +<p>While thus engaged, some of the inhabitants came to the shore +with a flag of truce, on which the admiral sent a boat to enquire +what they wanted. One of his men remained as a pledge with the +natives, two of whom came off to the ship. These informed the +admiral by signs, that they would next day supply the ships with +good provisions; in return for which proffered civility, the +admiral rewarded them with shoes, some linen, and two javelins, +and sent them again on shore. Next day, they came again to the +shore, according to promise; on which occasion, an Englishman, +named Fry, leapt on shore among them from the boat, considering +them as friends; but they perfidiously made him a prisoner, +threatening to stab him if he made any resistance. They then +mounted him on horseback, and carried him into the interior; but +he was afterwards sent back in safety to England.</p> + +<p>The pinnace being finished, they sailed from Mogadore on the +30th December, and arrived at Cape Blanco on the 17th January, +1578. On the voyage from Mogadore to Cape Blanco, they took three +<i>Canters</i>, or Spanish fishing-boats, and three caravels. +Here they found a Portuguese caravel at anchor, bound to the Cape +Verd islands for salt, in which there were only two mariners. +They took possession of this ship, and carried her into the +harbour of Cape Blanco, where they remained four days, during +which time the admiral trained his men on shore, to prepare them +for land service on occasion. At this place they took such +necessaries as they wanted from the fishermen, as also one of +their barks or canters of 40 tons, leaving behind a small bark of +their own, called the Benedict. Leaving this place on the 22d +January, they were told by the master of the Portuguese caravel, +which they carried along with them, that abundance of dried +<i>cabritos</i> or goats might be procured at Mayo, one of the +Cape Verd islands, which were yearly prepared there for the ships +belonging to the king of Spain.</p> + +<p>They arrived at Mayo on the 27th January, but the inhabitants +refused to trade with them, being expressly forbidden to have any +intercourse with foreigners, by orders from their sovereign. Next +day, however, the admiral sent a company of 72 armed men on shore +under the command of Mr Winter and Mr Doughty, to take a view of +the island, and to see if any refreshments could be procured. +They marched accordingly to the chief place of the island; and, +after travelling three days through the mountains, they arrived +there before day-break on the fourth day. The inhabitants were +all fled, but this part of the island seemed more fertile and +better cultivated than any of the rest. They rested here some +time, banqueting on delicious grapes, which they found in +perfection at that season of the year, though the depth of winter +in England. Mayo abounds with goats, wild poultry, and salt; this +last being formed in great quantities among the rocks, by the +heat of the sun; so that the natives have only the trouble of +gathering it into heaps, and sell it to their neighbours, from +which they derive great profit. They found here cocoa-nut trees, +which have no branches or leaves but at the top of the tree, +where the fruit grows in clusters. They then marched farther into +the island, where they saw great numbers of goats, but could not +get any. They might have furnished themselves with some dried +carcasses of old goats, which the natives laid purposely in their +way; but not caring for the refuse of the island, they returned +to the ships.</p> + +<p>Leaving Mayo on the 31st of January, they sailed past the +island of St Jago, whence three pieces of cannon were fired at +them, but without doing any injury. This is a large fine island, +inhabited by the Portuguese; but the mountains are said to be +still occupied by Moors, who fled thither to deliver themselves +from slavery, and have fortified themselves in places of +difficult access. Near this island they saw two ships under sail, +one of which they took, and it turned out a valuable prize, being +laden with wine. The admiral detained this ship, which he +committed to the charge of Mr Doughty, and took the Portuguese +pilot, named Nuno da Silva into his service, sending the rest +away in his pinnace, giving them some provisions, a butt of wine, +and their apparel. That same night they came to the island of +<i>Fuego</i>, or the burning island. It is inhabited by +Portuguese, having a volcano on its northern side, which is +continually throwing out smoke and flames; yet seems to be +reasonably commodious. On the south of Fuego there is a very +sweet and pleasant island, called by the Portuguese <i>Ilha +Brava</i>, the brave or fine island. This is cloathed with +evergreen trees, and has many streams of fresh water which run +into the sea, and are easily accessible; but it has no convenient +road for ships, the sea being every where too deep for anchorage. +It is alledged that the summit of Fuego is not higher in the air, +than are the roots of Brava low in the sea.</p> + +<p>Leaving these islands, and approaching the line, they were +sometimes becalmed for a long time together, and at other times +vexed with tempests. At all times, when the weather would permit, +they had plenty of dolphins, bonitos and flying-fish; several of +the last dropping in their flight on the decks, unable to rise +again, because their finny wings wanted moisture. Taking their +departure from the Cape de Verd islands, they sailed 54 days +without seeing land; and at length, on the 5th April, 1578, got +sight of the coast of Brazil, in lat. 33° S. The barbarous +people on shore, discovering the ships, began to practice their +accustomed ceremonies to raise a storm for destroying their +ships, making great fires, and offering sacrifices to the +devil.[23] The 7th April they had thunder, lightning, and rain, +during which storm they lost sight of the Christopher, but found +her again on the 11th; and the place where all the ships met +together, which had been dispersed in search of her, was named +Cape <i>Joy</i>, at which place the ships took in a supply of +fresh water. The country here was pleasant and fertile, with a +sweet and temperate climate; but the only inhabitants seen were +some herds of deer, though some footsteps of men, apparently of +great stature, were noticed on the ground. Having weighed anchor, +and sailed a little farther along the coast, they came to a small +and safe harbour, formed between a rock and the main, the rock +breaking the force of the sea. On this rock they killed some +sea-wolves, a species of seals, which they found wholesome food, +though not pleasant.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 23: This idea is uncharitable and absurd, +as the navigators could not know any thing of the motives of +these fires, and much less about the alleged sacrifices. The +fires might have been friendly signals, inviting them on +shore.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Going next to lat. 36° S. they sailed up the Rio Plata, +and came into 53 and 54 fathoms, fresh water, with which they +filled their water casks; but finding no convenient harbour, went +again to sea on the 27th of April. Sailing still onwards, they +came to a good bay, having several islands, one of which was well +stocked with seals and the others with sea fowl, so that they had +no want of provisions, together with plenty of water. The admiral +being ashore on one of these islands, the natives came about him, +dancing and skipping in a friendly manner, and willingly bartered +any thing they had for toys; but they had the strange custom of +refusing to accept of any thing, unless first thrown down on the +ground. They were a comely strong-bodied people, swift of foot, +and of lively dispositions. The Marigold and Christopher were +dispatched in search of a convenient harbour, and soon returned +with news of having found one, into which all the ships removed. +Here the seals were so numerous, that above 200 were killed in +about an hour. The natives came boldly about them, while working +ashore, having their faces painted, their only apparel being a +covering of skin with the fur on, wrapped about their waists, and +a kind of wreaths round their heads. Each man had a bow, about an +ell long, and only two arrows. They even seemed to have some +notion of military discipline, as they ranged their men in an +orderly manner; and they gave sufficient proof of their agility, +by stealing the admiral's hat from his head, which could not be +recovered.[24] While in this bay, the admiral took every thing +out of the fly-boat that could be of any use; she was then laid +on shore and burnt, and all her iron work saved for future +use.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 24: Harris observes, that these were of the +nation named Patagons by Magellan. But no notice is taken of +their stature being above the ordinary height.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Sailing from this place, the fleet came to anchor in Port St +Julian on the 20th June, where they saw the gibbet still +standing, on which Magellan had formerly executed some of his +mutinous company. Here also Admiral Drake executed one Captain +Doughty, the most suspected action of his life. Mr Doughty had +been guilty of certain actions, tending towards contention or +mutiny, and was found guilty partly on his own confession, and +partly by proof, taken in good order and as near as might be +according to the forms of the law of England. Having received the +communion from Mr Fletcher, chaplain of the admiral's ship, in +which Captain Drake participated along with him; and after +embracing Drake, and taking leave of all the company, Mr Doughty +prayed fervently for the welfare of the queen and whole realm, +then quietly laid his head on the block. The general then made a +speech to the whole company assembled, exhorting them to unity +and obedience, sacredly protesting that he had great private +affection for Mr Doughty, and had been solely actuated in +condemning him to an ignominious death, by his care for the +welfare of the voyage, the satisfaction of her majesty, and the +honour of his country.</p> + +<p>Leaving this place on the 17th August, they fell in with the +eastern entrance of the Straits of Magellan on the 20th of that +month. The 21st they entered the straits, which they found very +intricate, with various crooked turnings; owing to which, having +often to shift their course, the wind was frequently adverse, +making their passage troublesome and dangerous, especially in +sudden blasts of wind; for, although there were several good +harbours, the sea was too deep for anchorage, except in some +narrow creeks or inlets, or between rocks. On both sides of the +straits, there are vast mountains covered with snow, their tops +reaching in many places to great heights, having often two or +three ranges of clouds below their summits. The air in the +straits was extremely cold, with almost continual frost and snow; +yet the trees and plants retained a constant verdure, growing and +flourishing in spite of the severity of the climate. At the south +and east parts of the straits there are various islands, through +between which the sea breaks in, as at the main entrance. The +breadth of the straits in some places was only a league, which +was the narrowest, but in most places two, and in some three +leagues across. The 24th August, they came to an island in the +straits, where they found vast quantities of penguins, a sort of +water fowl, as large as a goose, but which does not fly, and of +which they killed 3000 in less than a day.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Incidents of the Voyage, from the Straits of Magellan to +New Albion.</i></p> + +<p>The 6th September, they reached the western extremity of the +straits, and entered into the great South Sea or Pacific Ocean. +On the 7th, the fleet encountered a storm, by which they were +driven one degree to the southwards of the straits, and more than +200 leagues in longitude back from that entrance.[25] They were +driven even so far as the lat. of 57° 20' S. where they +anchored among the islands, finding good fresh water and +excellent herbs.[26] Not far from thence, they entered another +bay, where they found naked people, ranging about the islands in +canoes, in search of provisions, with whom they had some +intercourse by way of barter. Continuing their course towards the +north, they discovered three islands on the 3d October, in one of +which there was an incredible number of birds. On the 8th +October, they lost company of the Elizabeth, the vice admiral, +commanded by Captain Winter. At his return home, they found that +Mr Winter had been forced to take refuge from the storm in the +straits, whence he returned to England, though many of us feared +he and his people had perished.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 25: This is a gross error, probably a +misprint for 20 leagues of longitude, as the quantity in the text +would have driven them far to the eastwards of the straits, into +the Atlantic, which is impossible, the whole of Tierra del Fuego +being interposed.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 26: This too is erroneous, as Cape Horn, +not then known, is only in lat. 55° 58' 30' S.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having now got back to the western entrance of the straits, +they made sail for the coast of Chili, which the general maps +represented as trending N.W. but which they found to the east of +N. so that these coasts had not been fully discovered, or very +inaccurately represented, for the space of 12 degrees at least, +either for the purpose to deceive, or through ignorance. +Proceeding northwards along the coast of Chili, they came to the +island of Mocha, in 38° 30' S. latitude, on the 29th +November, where they cast anchor. The admiral went here ashore +with ten men, and found the island inhabited by a people who had +fled from the extreme cruelty of the Spaniards, leaving their +original habitations on the continent, to enjoy their lives and +liberties in security. These people at first behaved civilly to +the admiral and his men, bringing them potatoes and two fat +sheep, promising also to bring them water, and they received some +presents in return. Next day, however, when two men went ashore +with barrels for water, the natives suddenly assailed and killed +them. The reason of this outrage was, that they mistook the +English for Spaniards, whom they never spare when they fall into +their hands.</p> + +<p>Continuing their course along the coast of Chili, they met an +Indian in a canoe, who mistook them for Spaniards, and told them +of a great Spanish ship at St Jago, laden for Peru. Rewarding him +for this intelligence, the Indian conducted them to where the +ship lay at anchor, in the port of Valparaiso, in lat. 33° +40' S.[27] All the men on board were only eight Spaniards and +three negroes, who, supposing the English to have been friends, +welcomed them with beat of drum, and invited them on board to +drink Chili wine. The English immediately boarded and took +possession; when one of the Spaniards leapt overboard, and swam +ashore to give notice of the coming of the English. On this +intelligence, all the inhabitants of the town, being only about +nine families, escaped into the country. The admiral and his men +landed, and rifled the town and its chapel, from which they took +a silver chalice, two cruets, and an altar cloth. They found also +in the town a considerable store of Chili wine, with many boards +of cedar wood, all of which they carried on board their ships. +Then setting all the prisoners on shore, except one named John +Griego, born in Greece, who was detained as a pilot, the admiral +directed his course for Lima, the capital of Peru, under the +guidance of this new pilot.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 27: More correctly, 33° 00' 30" S. and +long. 71° 38' 30" W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Being now at sea, they examined the booty in their prize, in +which they found 25,000 pezos of pure gold of Baldivia, amounting +to above 37,000 Spanish ducats. Continuing their course for Lima, +they put into the harbour of Coquimbo, in lat. 29° 54' S. +where the admiral sent fourteen men on shore for water. This +small company being espied by the Spaniards, they collected 300 +horse and 200 foot, and slew one of the Englishmen, the rest +getting back to the ship. From thence they went to a port named +<i>Taropaca</i> in Peru, in lat 20° 15' S. where landing, a +Spaniard was found asleep on the shore, having eighteen bars of +silver lying beside him, worth about 4000 Spanish ducats, which +they carried away, leaving him to his repose. Going again on +shore, not far from thence, in search of water, they met a +Spaniard and an Indian, driving eight Peruvian sheep, laden with +fine silver, each sheep having two leather bags on his back, in +each of which were about fifty pounds weight. These they carried +on board, finding in the whole of these bags 800 pounds weight of +silver. From thence they went to <i>Arica</i>, in lat. 18° +40' S. in which port they plundered three small barks of +fifty-seven bars of silver, each bar being in shape and size like +a brick-bat, and weighing about twenty pounds. Not having +sufficient strength, they did not assault the town, but put again +to sea, where they met another small bark, laden with linen, part +of which was taken out, and the bark dismissed.</p> + +<p>They came to Calao, the port of Lima, in lat. 12° 10' S. +on the 13th February, 1579, where they found twelve ships at +anchor, with all their sails down, without watch or guard, all +their masters and merchants being on shore. On examining the +contents of these ships, they found a chest full of dollars, with +great store of silks and linen, and carried away all the silver, +and part of the other goods to their own ships. Here the admiral +got notice of a very rich ship, called the Cacafuego, which had +sailed for Paita, in lat. 5° 10' S. Pursuing her thither, +they learnt, before arriving at Paita, that she had sailed for +Panama. In continuing the pursuit to Panama, they took another, +which paid them well for their trouble; as, besides her ropes and +other tackle, she yielded eighty pounds weight of gold, together +with a large golden crucifix, richly adorned with emeralds.</p> + +<p>Continuing to pursue the Cacafuego, the admiral promised to +give his gold chain to the first person who descried the chase, +which fell to the share of Mr John Drake, who first discovered +her, one morning about three o'clock. They came up with her about +six, gave her three shots, which struck down her mizen-mast, and +then boarded. They found this ship fully as rich as she was +reported, having thirteen chests full of dollars, eighty pounds +weight of gold, a good quantity of jewels, and twenty-six tons of +silver in bars.[28] Among other rich pieces of plate found in +this ship, there were two very large gilt silver bowls, which +belonged to her pilot. On seeing these, the admiral said to the +pilot, that these were fine bowls, and he must needs have one of +them; to which the pilot yielded, not knowing how to help +himself; but, to make this appear less like compulsion, he gave +the other to the admiral's steward. The place where this rich +prize was taken was off Cape San Francisco, about 150 leagues +from Panama, and in lat. 1° N. [00° 45'.] When the people +of the prize were allowed to depart, the pilot's boy told the +admiral, that the English ship ought now to be called the +<i>Cacafuego</i>, not theirs, as it had got all their rich +loading, and that their unfortunate ship ought now to be called +the <i>Cacaplata</i>, which jest excited much mirth.[29]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 28: Without calculating on the jewels, for +which there are no data, the silver and gold of this prize could +hardly fall short of 250,000<i>l</i>--worth more than a million, +in effective value, of the present day.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 29: This forecastle joke turns on the +meaning of the words, Cacafuego and Cacaplata, meaning Fartfire +and Fartsilver.--<i>Harris</i>.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having ransacked the Cacafuego of every thing worth taking, +she was allowed to depart; and continuing their course westwards, +they next met a ship laden with cotton goods, China dishes, and +China silks. Taking from the Spanish owner a falcon of massy +gold, having a large emerald set in his breast, and chasing such +other wares as he liked, the admiral allowed this ship to +continue her voyage, only detaining her pilot for his own use. +This pilot brought them to the harbour of Guatalca, in the town +adjacent to which, he said, there were only seventeen Spaniards. +Going there on shore, they marched directly to the town-house, +where they found a judge sitting, and ready to pass sentence on a +parcel of negroes, who were accused of plotting to set the town +on fire. But the arrival of the admiral changed affairs, for he +made both the judge and the criminals prisoners, and carried them +all aboard the ships. He then made the judge write to the +citizens, to keep at a distance, and make no resistance; after +which the town was plundered, but the only thing valuable was +about a bushel of Spanish dollars, or rials of plate. One of the +people took a rich Spaniard fleeing out of town, who ransomed +himself by giving up a gold chain and some jewels. At this place +the admiral set some of his Spanish prisoners ashore, together +with the old Portuguese pilot he took at the Cape Verd islands, +and departed from thence for the island of Cano. While there, he +captured a Spanish ship bound for the Philippine islands, which +he lightened of part of her merchandise, and allowed her to +proceed. At this place the admiral landed every thing out of his +own ship, and then laid her on shore, where she was repaired and +graved; after which they laid in a supply of wood and water.</p> + +<p>Thinking he had in some measure revenged the public injuries +of his country upon the Spaniards, as well as his own private +losses, the admiral began to deliberate about returning home; but +was in some hesitation as to the course he ought to steer. To +return by the Straits of Magellan, the only passage yet +discovered, he concluded would throw himself into the hands of +the Spaniards, who would probably there waylay him with a greatly +superior force, having now only one ship left, which was by no +means strong, though very rich.[30] He therefore, on maturely +weighing all circumstances, determined to proceed by way of the +Moluccas, and following the course of the Portuguese, to get home +by the Cape of Good Hope. Endeavouring to put this design in +execution, but being becalmed, he found it necessary to steer +more northwardly along the coast of America, in order to get a +wind; in which view he sailed at least 600 leagues, which was all +the way he was able to make between the 16th of April and the 3d +June.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 30: We have no account of the loss of any +of the squadron, except that the Elizabeth was lost sight of +after passing the Straits of Magellan. Perhaps the other vessels +had been destroyed, to reinforce the crew of the Hind, weakened +by the diseases incident to long voyages.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 5th June, being in lat. 43° N. they found the air +excessively cold, and the severity of the weather almost +intolerable; for which reason they returned along the coast to +the southward, till in lat. 38° N. where they found a very +good bay, which they entered with a favourable wind.[31] The +English had here a good deal of intercourse with the natives, +whose huts were scattered along the shores of this bay. These +people brought presents of leathers and net-work to the admiral, +who entertained them with so much kindness, that they were +infinitely pleased. Though the country is very cold, the natives +contrive to erect their houses in a very ingenious manner to +defend themselves from the severity of the weather. Surrounding +them by a deep trench, they raise great pieces of timber on its +outer edge, which close all in a point at the top, like the spire +of a steeple. Their fire is in the middle of this conical hut, +and they sleep on the ground strewed with rushes, around the +fire. The men go naked, but the women wear a kind of petticoat of +bull-rushes, dressed in the manner of hemp, which is fastened +round their waists, and reaches down to their hips; having +likewise a deer-skin on their shoulders. The good qualities of +these women make amends for their ordinary dress and figure, as +they are very dutiful to their husbands.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 31: This bay of Sir Francis Drake, on the +western coast of North America, is nearly in lat 58° N. as +stated in the text, and long. 122° 15' W. from Greenwich. It +is now named by the Spaniards, the Bay of San Francisco in +California, on the southern side of which they have a mission of +the same name--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Soon after his arrival, the admiral received a present from +the natives of feathers and bags of tobacco, which was given in +much form by a numerous concourse of the Indians. These convened +on the top of a hill or rising ground, whence one of their number +harangued the admiral, whose tent was pitched at the bottom of +the hill. When this speech was ended, they all laid down their +weapons on the summit of the hill, whence they descended and +offered their presents, at the same time civilly returning those +which the admiral had before given them. All this time the native +women remained on the top of the hill, where they seemed as if +possessed, tearing their hair, and howling in a most savage +manner. This is the ordinary music of their sacrifices, something +of that nature being then solemnizing. While the women above were +thus serving the devil, the men below were better employed, in +listening attentively to divine service, then performing in the +admiral's tent These circumstances, though trivial in themselves, +are important in ascertaining the first discovery of California +by the English.</p> + +<p>News of the arrival of the English having spread about the +country, two ambassadors came to the admiral, to inform him that +the king was coming to wait upon him, and desired to have a token +of peace, and assurance of safe conduct. This being given to +their satisfaction, the whole train began to move towards the +admiral, in good order, and with a graceful deportment. In front +came a very comely person, bearing the sceptre before the king, +on which hung two crowns, and two chains of great length. The +crowns were made of net-work, ingeniously interwoven with +feathers of many colours, and the chains were made of bones. Next +to the sceptre-bearer came the king, a very comely personage, +shewing an air of majesty in all. This deportment, surrounded by +a guard of tall martial-looking men, all clad in skins. Then +followed the common people, who, to make the finer appearance, +had painted their faces, some black, and some of other colours. +All of them had their arms full of presents, even the children +not excepted.</p> + +<p>The admiral drew up all his men in line of battle, and stood +ready to receive them within his fortifications. At some distance +from him, the whole train of natives made a halt, all preserving +the most profound silence, except the sceptre-bearer, who made a +speech of half an hour. He then, from an orator, became a +dancing-master, and struck up a song, being joined in both by the +king, lords, and common people, who came all singing and dancing +up to the fences which the admiral had thrown up. The natives +then all sat down; and, after some preliminary compliments, the +king made a solemn offer of his whole kingdom and its +dependencies to the admiral, desiring him to assume the +sovereignty, and professing himself his most loyal subject; and, +that this might not seem mere empty compliment, he took off his +illustrious crown of feathers from his own head, with the consent +and approbation of all his nobles there present, and placing it +on the head of the admiral, invested him with all the other +ensigns of royalty, constituting the admiral, as far as in him +lay, king of the whole country. The admiral, as her majesty's +representative, accepted of this new-offered dignity in her name +and behalf; as from this donation, whether made in jest or +earnest, it was probable that some real advantage might redound +hereafter to the English nation in these parts. After this +ceremony, the common people dispersed themselves about the +English encampment, expressing their admiration and respect for +the English in a most violent and even profane manner, even +offering sacrifices to them, as in the most profound devotion, +till they were repressed by force, with strong expressions of +abhorrence, and directed to pay their adorations to the supreme +Creator and Preserver of all things, whom only they ought to +honour with religious worship.[32]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 32: The whole of this story, of a king and +his nobles, and the investiture of Drake in the sovereignty of +California, which he named New Albion, is so completely absurd as +not to merit serious observation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After this ceremony, the admiral and some of his people +penetrated to some distance into the interior country, which they +found to be extremely full of large fat deer, often seeing about +a thousand in one herd. There were also such immense numbers of +rabbits, that the whole country seemed one vast warren. These +rabbits were of the size of those of Barbary, having heads like +our own rabbits in England, with feet like those of a mole, and +long tails like rats. Under the chin on each side, they have a +bag or pouch in the skin, into which they store up any food they +get abroad, which they there preserve for future use. Their flesh +is much valued by the natives, and their skins are made into +robes for the king and nobles. This country seemed to promise +rich veins of gold and silver; as wherever they had occasion to +dig, they threw up some of the ores of these metals.[33] Partly +in honour of England, and partly owing to the prospect of white +cliffs which this country presented from the sea, the admiral +named this region New Albion. Before his departure, he erected a +monument, on which was a large plate, engraven with the name, +picture, and arms of queen Elizabeth, the title of her majesty to +the sovereignty of the country, the time of its discovery, and +Drake's own name. In this country the Spaniards had never had the +smallest footing, neither had they discovered this coast of +America, even for several degrees to the southwards of New +Albion.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 33: This surely is a gross falsehood, as +even the Spaniards, so much experienced in mines of the precious +metals, have found none in California, though possessing missions +among its rude and scanty population in every corner, even in +this very spot.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Continuation of the Voyage, from New Albion to +England.</i></p> + +<p>Sailing from this port of New Albion, [now called by the +Spaniards the Bay of San Francisco,] they had no sight of land +till the 13th October, 1579, when, in the morning of that day, +they fell in with certain islands in lat. 8° N.[34] They here +met many canoes, laden with cocoa-nuts and other fruits. These +canoes were very artificially hollowed, and were smooth and +shining, like polished horn. Their prows and sterns were all +turned circularly inwards; and on each side there lay out two +pieces of timber, or out-riggers, a yard and a half long, more or +less, according the size of the canoes. They were of considerable +height in the gunwales; and their insides were ornamented with +white shells. The islanders in these canoes had large holes in +the lower parts of their ears, which reached down a considerable +way, by the weight of certain ornaments. Their teeth were as +black as jet, occasioned by chewing a certain herb with a sort of +powder, which they always carry with them for that +purpose.[35]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 34: These probably were some of the +Caralines, being in the direct route from Port Sir Francis Drake +to the Moluccas.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 35: Areka nut and betel leaf, with pounded +shell-lime.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 18th October they came to other islands, some of which +appeared to be very populous, and continued their course past the +islands of <i>Tagulada, Zelon,</i> and <i>Zewarra.</i> The first +of these produces great store of cinnamon; and the inhabitants +are in friendship with the Portuguese. Without making any stop at +these islands, the admiral continued his course, and fell in with +the Moluccas on the 14th November. Intending to steer for Tidore, +and coasting along the island of Motir, which belongs to the king +of Ternate, they met the viceroy of that king, who came +fearlessly on board the admiral's ship. He advised the admiral by +no means to prosecute his voyage to Tidore, but to sail directly +for Ternate, as the king, his master, was a great enemy to the +Portuguese, and would have no intercourse with him, if at all +connected with Tidore or the Portuguese. Upon this, the admiral +resolved on going to Tidore, and came to anchor before the town +early next morning.</p> + +<p>He immediately sent a messenger to the king, with a present of +a velvet cloak, and to assure him that his only purpose in coming +to his island was to trade in a friendly manner. By this time the +viceroy had been to the king, whom he had disposed to entertain a +favourable opinion of the English, so that the king returned a +very civil and obliging answer, assuring the admiral that a +friendly intercourse with the English was highly pleasing to him, +his whole kingdom, and all that it contained, being at his +service; and that he was ready to lay himself and his dominions +at the feet of the glorious queen of England, and to acknowledge +her as his sovereign. In token of all this, he sent his signet to +the admiral, delivering it with much respect to the messenger, +who was treated with great pomp and ceremony at court.</p> + +<p>Having a mind to visit the admiral on board ship, the king +sent before hand four large canoes, filled with his most +dignified attendants, all in white dresses, and having large +awnings of perfumed mats borne over their heads on a frame of +canes or bamboos. They were surrounded by servants, all in white; +outside of whom were ranks of soldiers, and beyond them were many +rowers in well-contrived galleries, three of these on each side +all along the canoes, raised one above the other, each gallery +containing eighty rowers.[36] These canoes were well furnished +with warlike implements and all kind of weapons, both offensive +and defensive, and were filled with soldiers well appointed for +war. Bowing near the ship in great order, they paid their +reverence to the admiral, saying that their king had sent them to +conduct his ship into a safer road than that it now occupied.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 36: This surely is a great exaggeration, +employing 480 rowers to each canoe.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The king himself came soon afterwards, attended upon by six +grave and ancient persons. He seemed much delighted with English +music, and still more with English generosity, which the admiral +expressed in large presents to him and his attendants. The king +promised to come aboard again next day, and that same night sent +off great store of provisions, as rice, poultry, sugar, cloves, a +sort of fruit called <i>Frigo</i>, and <i>Sago</i>, which is a +meal made out of the tops of trees, melting in the mouth like +sugar, and tasting like sour curds, but when made into cakes will +keep fit for eating at the end of ten years. The king did not +come on board next day, according to promise, but sent his +brother to excuse him, and: to invite the admiral on shore, while +he remained as a pledge for his safe return. The admiral declined +going ashore himself, but sent some gentlemen of his retinue +along with the king's brother, detaining the viceroy till their +return.</p> + +<p>They were received on shore by another of the king's brothers +with several nobles, and conducted in great state to the castle, +where there was a court of at least a thousand persons, the +principal of whom were sixty grave counsellors, and four Turkish +envoys dressed in scarlet robes and turbans, who were there to +negociate trade between the Turkish empire and Ternate. The king +came in under a glorious canopy, embroidered with gold, and +guarded by twelve men armed with lances. He was dressed in a +loose robe of cloth of gold, having his legs bare, but with +leather shoes or slippers on his feet. Several circular ornaments +of gold were braided among his hair, a large chain of gold hung +from his neck, and his fingers were adorned with rich jewels. A +page stood at the right-hand side of his chair of state, blowing +cool air upon him with a fan, two feet long and a foot broad, +curiously embroidered, and enriched with sapphires. The English +gentlemen were kindly received; and, having heard their message, +he sent one of his counsellors to conduct them back to the ships. +The king of Ternate is a prince of great power, having seventy +islands under his authority, besides Ternate, which is the best +of the Molucca islands. His religion, and that of all his +subjects, is Mahometism, in obedience to which they keep the new +moons and many fasts, during which they mortify the flesh all the +day, but make up for their abstemiousness by feasting in the +night.</p> + +<p>Having dispatched all his affairs at Ternate, the admiral left +the place, and sailed to a small island to the southwards of +Celebes, where he remained twenty-six days. This island is all +covered with wood, the trees being of large size, tall, straight, +and without boughs, except at the top, the leaves resembling our +English broom. There were here vast numbers of shining flies, no +bigger than our common flies in England, which, skimming at night +among the trees and bushes, made them appear as if all on fire. +The bats in this island were as large as our ordinary poultry, +and there was a sort of land cray-fish, which burrowed in the +ground like rabbits, being so large that one of them was a +sufficient meal for four persons.</p> + +<p>Setting sail from thence, and being unable to proceed +westwards on account of the wind, the course was altered to the +southwards, yet with much danger, by reason of the shoals which +lie thick among these islands. Of this they had most dangerous +and almost fatal experience on the 9th January, 1580, by running +upon a rock, on which they stuck fast from eight at night till +four in the afternoon of next day. In this distress, the ship was +lightened by landing three tons of cloves, eight pieces of +ordnance, and some provisions on the rock; soon after which, by +the wind chopping round, they happily got off.</p> + +<p>On the 18th of February, they fell in with the fruitful island +of <i>Baratene</i>,[37] having in the mean time suffered much +from cross winds and dangerous shoals. They met with a friendly +reception from the people of this island, who were handsomely +proportioned, and just in all their dealings. The men wore no +cloathing, except a slight covering round their middles, but the +women were covered from the waist to the feet, having likewise +many large heavy bracelets of bone, horn, or brass, on their +arms, the smallest weighing two ounces, and having eight or ten +of these on at once. This island affords gold, silver, copper, +sulphur, nutmegs, ginger, long-pepper, lemons, cocoas, frigo, +sago, and other commodities, and linen was found to be in much +request by the natives, as of it they make girdles and rolls for +wearing on their heads. Among the productions of this island, +there was a particular sort of fruit, resembling barberries in +size, form, and husk, very hard, yet of a pleasant taste, and +becoming soft and easy of digestion when boiled. In short, they +met with no place in the whole voyage that yielded greater +abundance of every comfort than this island, excepting +Ternate.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 37: No circumstance in the text serves to +indicate what island is here meant, except that it appears to +have been to the eastward of Java.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving Baratene, they sailed to Java Major, where also they +were courteously and honourably entertained. This island was +ruled over by six kings, who lived in entire peace and amity with +each other, and they once had four of them on board at one time, +and very often two or three together.[38]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 38: The names of the kings or princes of +Java, when Sir Francis Drake was there, were Rajah Donaw, R. +Rabacapala, R. Bacabatra, R. Tymbanton, R. Mawgbange, and R, +Patemara.--<i>Hakluyt</i>.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Javans are a stout and warlike people, well armed with +swords, targets, and daggers, all of their own manufacture, and +are very curious and ingenious, both in the fashion of their +weapons, and in giving them an excellent temper. They wear +turbans on their heads, the upper parts of their bodies being +naked; but, from the waist downwards, they have a pintado, or a +silken wrapper, trailing on the ground. They manage their women +quite differently from the Moluccans; for, while these will +hardly let them be seen by a stranger, the Javans will very +civilly offer a female bedfellow to a traveller. Besides being +thus civil and hospitable to strangers, they are good humoured +and sociable among themselves; for in every village they have a +public-house, where the inhabitants meet together, each bringing +their shares of provisions, and joining the whole in one social +feast for the keeping up of good fellowship.</p> + +<p>The Javans have a peculiar mode of boiling rice. It is put +into an earthen pot of a conical form, open at the large end, and +perforated all over with small holes, which is placed within a +larger earthen pot full of boiling water. The rice swells and +fills the holes of the inner pot, so that very little water gets +in, and by this mode of boiling the rice is brought to a firm +consistency, and cakes into a sort of bread, of which, with +butter or oil, sugar, and spices, they make several very pleasant +dishes. The lues venerea prevails among the inhabitants of this +island; but, instead of expelling the poison by salivation, they +drive it out by perspiration, sitting for this purpose in the sun +for some hours, by which the pores are opened, giving free vent +to the noxious particles of the disease.</p> + +<p>While in Java, the following words in the native language were +taken notice of, and are recorded by Hukluyt.</p> + +<pre> + Sabuck, silk. Gula, black sugar. + Sagu, bread. Tadon, a woman. + Larnike, drink. Bebeck, a duck. + Paree, rice in the husk. Aniange, a deer. + Braas, boiled rice. Popran, ointment. + Calapa, cocoa nuts. Coar, the head. + Cricke, a dagger. Endam, rain. + Catcha, a mirror. Jonge, a ship. + Arbo, an ox. Chay, the sea. + Vados, a goat. Sapelo, ten. + Gardunge, a plantain. Dopolo, twenty. + Hiam, a hen. Treda no. + Seuit, linen. Lau, understand you? + Doduck, blue cloth. Bayer, go! + Totoppo, a cap. Adadizano, I will fetch it. + Cabo, gold. Suda, enough. +</pre> + +<p>Having news of some great ships being at no great distance, +and not knowing whether they might prove friends or enemies, the +admiral set sail from Java, sailing directly for the Cape of Good +Hope, which was the first land he fell in with; neither did he +touch at any, till he arrived at Sierra Leona on the coast of +Guinea. He passed the cape on the 18th June, 1580, and by the +facility of the navigation round that southern promontory of +Africa, found how much the Portuguese had imposed upon the world +by false representations of its horrors and dangers. He arrived +at Sierra Leona on the 22d July, where were elephants, and +abundance of oysters fastened on the twigs of trees, hanging down +into the water, where they grow and multiply. With these, and +lemons, with which they were abundantly supplied, his people were +much refreshed.</p> + +<p>After two days stay at that place, taking in a supply of wood +and water, and procuring refreshments, they sailed from thence on +the 24th July. Next day, they were in lat. 25° 30' N. under +the tropic of Cancer, fifty leagues from land. Being completely +supplied with all necessaries, they continued their voyage, +without stopping any where, and arrived at Plymouth on Monday the +26th of September, 1580, having been absent two years, nine +months, and thirteen days. By their reckoning, the day of their +arrival was only Sunday the 25th, as in going completely round +the world in the same course with the sun, that luminary had +risen once seldomer to them than to those who remained +stationary, so that they had lost a day in their computation.</p> + +<p>SECTION V.</p> + +<p><i>Reception of Sir Francis Drake in England, and same Notices +of his remaining Actions</i>.</p> + +<p>The fame of his return from this wonderful voyage round the +world soon spread over England, and all strove to express their +sense of the worthiness of Captain Drake, by praises and other +testimonies of regard. Several collections were made of poems, +epigrams, and songs, celebrating him and his ship in the highest +strains. Yet, in the midst of almost universal applause, some +endeavoured to censure his conduct, and to place this great +exploit in a wrong light. These persons alleged, that his +circumnavigation of the globe served only to amuse the minds of +the vulgar, while the main purpose of the voyage had been +plunder, of which they pretended he had acquired sufficient to +exempt the nation from taxes for seven years. They also set +forth, as war had not been proclaimed against Spain, that it was +dangerous to own such an adventurer, lest the nation might be +made to pay dearly for his prizes: For, as the merchants had +great effects in Spain, their goods might possibly be seized to +make good his depredations.</p> + +<p>The Spanish ambassador also assailed him with very warm +memorials, styling him the Master Thief of the Unknown World. The +friends and patrons of Drake, finding themselves wounded through +his sides, took all manner of pains to vindicate his conduct, +alleging that he had the queen's commission and authority to +justify him in making reprisals; that by so much wealth as he had +brought home the nation would be enriched; that the Spaniards had +already done us much injury; and, if the king of Spain were +disposed to seize the effects of our merchants, the public ought +to receive this treasure as an equivalent; which, were it +returned, would break the spirit of our brave tars, who otherwise +were more likely to humble the pride of the Spaniards.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, matters remained long in suspense, during +which Drake must have suffered considerable anxiety, lest, after +all his toils abroad, he might be deemed a pirate at home. The +queen long delayed to declare her sentiments, perhaps wishing to +see what effects her conduct might have with the court of Spain, +which was probably withheld from precipitating hostilities, by +the hope of being able to recover this great treasure. To keep up +this hope, she artfully consented to part with some small sums to +Mendoza, the Spanish ambassador. At length, matters coming to a +crisis, she threw off the veil, and giving notice to Captain +Drake of her intentions, she visited him on the 4th April, 1581, +on board his ship, then at Deptford, where she was magnificently +entertained; and, after dinner, she was graciously pleased to +confer the honour of knighthood on Captain Drake, telling him +that his actions did him more honour than the title she had +conferred. A prodigious crowd attended the queen on this +occasion, so that the bridge laid from the ship to the shore +broke down with their weight, and more than 200 persons fell into +the Thames, yet no one was drowned, or even materially hurt. +After this public approbation from the sovereign, all ranks of +people redoubled their congratulations, and henceforward the +reputation of Sir Francis Drake continually increased, so that he +became a kind of oracle in maritime affairs, both to the nation +and the court.--Here, strictly speaking, we ought to conclude our +account of this illustrious navigator; yet it may not be amiss to +give a short sketch of his succeeding actions.</p> + +<p>The war with Spain still continuing, he went out in 1585, +general by sea and land, of an expedition to the West Indies, +where he took the cities of St Jago, St Domingo, and Carthagena, +and the fort and town of St Augustine; returning from this +expedition with great glory and advantage, the profits amounting +to £60,000, after defraying all charges, of which +£20,000 were divided among the seamen, and £40,000 +came clear to the undertakers or adventurers. In 1587, he had the +command of another fleet, with which he sailed to the bay of +Cadiz, and thence to the Tagus, where he destroyed 10,000 tons of +shipping, which the king of Spain had collected for the purpose +of invading England. He likewise brought home the St Philip, a +very rich prize, said by the writers of these times to have been +the first carack ever taken and brought home to England.</p> + +<p>In the glorious year 1588, by commission from the queen, Sir +Francis Drake was appointed vice-admiral of the fleet of England, +then fitted out for opposing the <i>invincible</i> Spanish +Armada. In this arduous service, on which the independence and +existence of England depended, he performed even more than his +former actions gave reason to expect. In the very beginning of +the fight, he captured two very large ships of war, one commanded +by the Spanish vice-admiral Oquendas, and the other by Don Pedro +de Valdez. This latter officer defended his ship with great +gallantry for a long time; and at length, on surrendering, and +delivering his sword to Sir Francis, he addressed him to the +following effect: "That they had all resolved to have died +fighting, if they had not fallen into his hands, whose valour and +fortune were so great, that Mars and Neptune seemed to aid him in +all his enterprises." To requite these Spanish compliments with +solid English kindness, Sir Francis lodged Don Valdez in his own +cabin, and entertained him at his table. Drake's crew were +recompensed by the plunder of the Spanish ship, in which were +found 55,000 ducats in gold, which they joyfully shared. Sir +Francis performed many other signal services on this memorable +occasion against the Armada, and particularly distinguished +himself by advising the employment of fire-ships, which some have +alleged he then invented.</p> + +<p>He was next year admiral of a great fleet, sent to Portugal +for the purpose of restoring Don Antonio to the throne of that +kingdom. This expedition, though it did not succeed in its grand +object, occasioned considerable damage to Spain, on which it +retorted the compliment of an invasion, and by which it was +rendered unable to repeat another attempt of the same nature. On +the whole, therefore, Sir Francis spoiled no less than three +Spanish invasions. In 1595, he went upon another conjunct +expedition against the Spanish West Indies, in which he performed +signal services; but aiming at still greater, and being +unsuccessful, he died in the harbour of Porto Bello, on the 28th +of January, 1596, as is said, of a broken heart, occasioned by +his disappointment. His body, being put into a leaden coffin, was +committed to the deep, under a general discharge of all the +artillery of the fleet. In his person, though of low stature, Sir +Francis Drake was well made, with a fresh and fair complexion, +having large lively eyes, light-brown hair, and an open cheerful +countenance. He was naturally eloquent, gracefully expressing +what he clearly conceived. He was thoroughly versant, not only in +the practical part of his profession, but in all the sciences +connected with it, being able to discharge all the offices +necessary in a ship as occasion required, even that of the +surgeon. In his conduct as a naval commander he was skilful and +valiant, just to his owners, kind to his seamen, loyal to his +sovereign, and merciful to his enemies after victory. His many +glorious exploits justly entitle him to high fame; and he died, +at fifty-five, in the ardent pursuit of glory, in the cause of +his queen and country.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>The fame of this Voyage round the World, with the wealth +brought home by Sir Francis Drake, and the desire of rivalling +him in riches and reputation, inspired numbers of young men of +all ranks with the inclination of trying their fortunes at sea. +Men of rank and fortune fitted out ships at their own expence, +manning them with their dependants. Others, in lower situations, +hazarded their persons as subaltern officers in these ships, or +in men-of-war belonging to the queen. This spirit grew to such a +height, that honest John Stowe informs us that there were many +youths, from eighteen to twenty years of age, towards the close +of Queen Elizabeth's reign, who were capable of taking charge of +any ship, and navigating to most parts of the world.</p> + +<p>So alarmed were the Spaniards by the courage and conduct of +Sir Francis, and his maritime skill, that they ordered that no +draughts or discourses should be published of their discoveries +in America, lest they might fall into his hands. What most +surprised them was, that he should find his way so easily through +the Straits of Magellan, which they had hitherto been unable to +perform. They therefore resolved immediately to have these +straits completely explored and discovered, by means of ships +fitted out in Peru. For this purpose, Don Pedro Sarmiento, who +was thought the best seaman in the Spanish service, was sent from +Lima, and actually passed from the South Sea into the Atlantic, +and thence to Spain. He there proposed to plant a colony in the +straits, and to fortify them in such a manner as might prevent +all other nations from passing through them. This project was so +well relished by Philip II that a fleet of twenty-three ships was +fitted out, with 3,500 men, under the command of Don Diego Floris +de Valdez; and Sarmiento, with 500 veterans, was appointed to +form a settlement in the straits.</p> + +<p>This fleet was extremely unfortunate, insomuch that it was +between two and three years before Sarmiento arrived with his +people in the straits of Magellan. On the north side, and near +the eastern entrance, he built a town and fort, which he named +Nombre de Jesus, and in which he left a garrison of 150 men. +Fifteen leagues farther on, at the narrowest part of the straits, +and in lat. 53° 18' S.[39] he established his principal +settlement, which he named <i>Ciudad del Rey Felippe</i>, or the +City of King Philip. This was a regularly fortified square +fortress, having four bastions; and is said to have been in all +respects one of the best-contrived settlements ever made by the +Spaniards in America. At this place Sarmiento left a garrison of +400 men and thirty women, with provisions for eight months, and +then returned into the Atlantic. These transactions took place in +the years 1584, 5, and 6. Sarmiento, after several fruitless +attempts to succour and relieve his colony, was taken by an +English vessel, and sent prisoner to London.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 39: The Narrows of the Hope are eighteen +leagues of Castile, or about forty-eight English miles from Cape +Virgin, the northern cape at the eastern mouth of the straits, in +lat. 52° 5' S. long. 69° W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Spanish garrison, having consumed all their provisions, +died mostly of hunger, perhaps aided by the scurvy, in their new +city. Twenty-three men quitted it, endeavouring to find their way +by land to the Spanish settlements, but are supposed to have all +perished by the way, as they were never more heard of. Sarmiento +fell into discredit with the king of Spain, for deceiving him as +to the breadth of the straits, which he asserted did not exceed a +mile over; whereas the king was certainly informed that they were +a league broad, and therefore incapable of being shut up by any +fortifications. However this may be, even supposing the report of +Sarmiento true, and that his fortress could have commanded the +straits, even this could have proved of little or no service to +Spain, as another passage into the South Sea was discovered soon +afterwards, without the necessity of going near these +straits.</p> + +<p>SECTION VI.</p> + +<p><i>First Supplement to the Voyage of Sir Francis Drake; being +on Account of Part of the foregoing Navigation, by Nuno da +Silva</i>.[40]</p> + +<p>Nuna da Silva, born in Oporto, a citizen and inhabitant of +Guaia, saith, that on the 19th January, 1578, while at anchor +with his ship in the harbour of St Jago, one of the Cape de Verd +islands, he was made prisoner by the admiral of six English +ships, and detained because discovered to be a pilot for the +coast of Brazil. Setting sail, therefore, with the said admiral +from Brava, they held their course for the land of Brazil, which +they descried on the first April, being in the latitude of +30° S. whence they held on their course for the Rio Plata, +where they provided themselves with fresh water.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 40: Hakluyt, IV. 246.--This narrative was +written by Nuno da Silva, the Portuguese pilot who accompanied +Sir Francis Drake from the Cape Verd islands to Guatalco on the +western coast of New Spain, and was sent from the city of Mexico +to the viceroy of Portuguese India, in 1579.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From thence they proceeded to the latitude of 39° S. where +they anchored. They here left two of their ships behind them, and +continued on with four only, that which had formerly belonged to +Nuno being one of these. They next came into a bay, in lat. +49° S. called <i>Bahia de las Ilhas</i>, or the Bay of +Islands, where Magellan is said to have wintered with his ships, +when he went to discover the straits which now bear his name. +They entered this bay on the 20th June, and anchored within +musket-shot of the shore. They here found Indians cloathed in +skins, their legs downwards from the knees, and their arms below +the elbows, being naked. These Indians were a subtle, great, and +well-formed race, strong, and tall in stature, being armed with +bows and arrows. Six of the English going here on shore to fetch +water, four of the Indians came into their boat before they +landed, to whom the Englishmen gave bread and wine; after eating +and drinking of which heartily they went on shore, and when at +some distance, one of them cried to them, and said, +<i>Magallanes! este he minha terra</i>; that is, Magellan, this +is my country. Being followed by the sailors, they slew two of +them with their arrows; one of whom was an Englishman, and the +other a Hollander; on which the others made their escape to the +boat, and put off from the shore.</p> + +<p>Leaving this place on the 17th of August, they came to the +mouth of the straits on the 21st or 22d, but did not enter them +till the 24th, owing to the wind being contrary. The entry into +the straits is about a league in breadth, both sides being naked +flat land. Some Indians were seen on the north side, making great +fires; but none appeared on the south side of the straits. This +strait is about 110 leagues long, and a league in breadth; and +for about half-way through, is straight and without turnings; +from thence, to about eight or ten leagues from the farther end, +it has some capes and turnings, at one of which there is a great +cape or head-land, which seems as if it went down to join the +southern land; and here the passage is less than a league across, +after which it again runs straight. Although there are thus some +crooks and turnings, none of them are of any importance, or any +dangerous obstacle. The western issue of these straits, about +eight or ten leagues before coming out, begins to grow broader, +and is then all high-land on both sides to the end; as likewise +all the way, after getting eight leagues in from the eastern +entrance, the shores along these first eight leagues being low. +In the entry to the straits, we found the stream to run from the +South Sea to the North Sea, or Atlantic.</p> + +<p>After beginning to sail into the straits, with the wind at +E.N.E. they passed along without let or hindrance either of wind +or weather, and because the land on both sides was high, and +covered with snow, the whole navigation being fair and clear of +shoals or rocks, they held their course the whole way within +musket-shot of the north-side, having always nine or ten fathoms +water on good ground; so that everywhere there was anchorage if +need were. The hills on both sides were covered with trees, which +in some places reached to the edge of the sea, where there were +plains and flat lands. They saw not any large rivers, but some +small brooks or streams that issued from rifts or clefts of the +land. In the country beside the great cape and bending of the +strait, some Indians were seen on the south side, fishing in +their skiffs or canoes, being similar to those formerly seen on +the north side at the entrance into the straits; and these were +the only natives seen on the south side during the whole +passage.</p> + +<p>Being out of the straits on the eastern side on the 6th of +September, they held their course N.W. for three days, and on the +third day they had a storm at N.E. which drove them W.S.W. for +ten or twelve days with few sails up; after which, the storm +increasing, they took in all their sails, and drove under bare +poles till the 30th September. Having lost sight of one of their +ships, of about 100 tons, and the wind growing more moderate, +they hoisted sail, holding their course N.E. for seven days, at +the end of which they came in sight of certain islands, for which +they steered, meaning to have anchored among them, but the +weather would not permit; and the wind coming N.W. they made sail +to the W.S.W. Next day they lost sight of another ship, in very +foul weather; so that the admiral was now left alone, as my ship +had been left in the bay where they remained some time before +entering the straits. With this new storm of adverse wind, they +had to proceed southwards, till they came into the latitude of +57° S. where they entered a bay in an island, and anchored in +twenty fathoms, about a cannon-shot from the shore. After +remaining here three or four days, the wind changed to the south, +and they again made sail to the northwards for two days, when a +small uninhabited island was descried, where they procured many +birds and seals.</p> + +<p>Next day they again proceeded, holding their course N. and +N.N.E. and came to the island of Mocha, in 38° 30 S. five or +six leagues from the main, where they anchored in twelve fathoms, +a quarter of a league from the shore. This island is small and +low land, all full of Indians. Here the admiral and twelve +Englishmen landed, on purpose to seek fresh water and provisions, +and bought two sheep in exchange of other things from the +Indians, together with a little maize, and some roots of which +the Indians make bread; and being now late, went on board ship +for the night. Next day the admiral again landed with twelve men +armed with muskets, and sent two men with vessels to fetch water. +Some Indians lay in ambush at the watering-place, who suddenly +fell upon the two Englishmen, and made them prisoners; which +being perceived by the admiral and those with him, they advanced +to rescue their companions, but were so sore assailed by stones +and arrows, that all or most of them were hurt, the admiral +receiving two wounds from arrows, one in his face and the other +on his head; so that they were compelled to retreat to their +boat, without hurting any of the Indians, who were so bold as +even to carry away four of their oars.</p> + +<p>They sailed from hence along the coast to the northwards, with +a southern wind, for six days, passing the harbour of St Jago, +and put into another haven, where they took an Indian, who was +fishing in a canoe, giving him some linen, knives, and other +trifles. Not long after there came another Indian to the ship, +whose name was Felippe, and who spoke Spanish. He gave notice to +the English admiral of a certain ship being in the harbour of St +Jago, which they had overpassed six leagues. So, taking this +Indian as their guide, they went back to St Jago, where they took +the said ship, in which were 1770 <i>botijas</i>, or Spanish +pots, full of wine, besides other commodities. They then landed, +and took a quantity of sacks of meal, and whatever else they +could find, taking also the ornaments and relics from the church. +They departed then from thence, taking with them the captured +ship, with two of her men, running along the coast till they came +to the latitude of between 30° and 31° S. where they had +appointed to meet, in case of separation. They here anchored +right over against a river, whence they filled six butts of fresh +water, having twelve armed men on land to defend those who filled +the casks. While busied in this work, they saw a company of armed +men coming towards them, half Spaniards and half Indians, being +about 250 horse and as many foot, on which they made all haste to +get into their boat, escaping with the loss of one man.</p> + +<p>They set sail again that same night, going about ten leagues +farther along the coast, where they took in some more fresh +water, but were soon obliged to quit this place also, by the +appearance of some horsemen. Proceeding thirty leagues farther +along the coast, still to the northwards, they went into a bay or +haven, in a desert or uninhabited place, but seeing some persons +daily on the shore, they did not venture to land. At this place, +the English put together the pieces of a small pinnace, which +they had brought ready framed with them from England. Having +launched this pinnace, the English captain went into her with +fifteen men, accompanied by John the Greek, who was chief +boatswain, being master of the ship formerly taken in the harbour +of St Jago. At this time they went to look for the two vessels +they had parted from formerly in a storm, and also in hopes of +being able to procure fresh water; but seeing always persons on +shore, they durst not land, and returned again to the ship +without hearing of their other ships. They now took all the +ordnance out of their ship, and new dressed and rigged her; after +which, arming the pinnace with a small piece of ordnance, they +resumed their course to the northwards.</p> + +<p>Having sailed thirteen days, they came to an island about the +shot of a culverin from the main, where four fishermen told them +of fresh water on the main; but understanding it was but scanty, +and somewhat distant from the shore, they continued their course. +Next day they espied some fishers houses on shore, when the +English captain landed and took three of the fishers, taking away +half of the fish that lay packed on the shore. The day following +they took a bark laden with fish belonging to the Spaniards, in +which were four Indians, and bound it by a rope to the stem of +their ships; but the Indians in the night cut her loose, and went +away. Next day the English captain went ashore to certain houses, +where he found 3000 pezos of silver, each being equal to a rial +of eight, or Spanish dollar; getting also seven Indian sheep, +some hens, and other articles, all of which he brought on board, +and resumed his voyage. Two days after, going to the harbour of +Arica, they found two ships, one of which was laden with goods +and Spanish wares, out of which they only took 200 botijas, or +pots of wine, and from the other thirty-seven bars of silver, +each weighing ten or twelve pounds. They meant also to have +landed at this place; but seeing some horsemen coming towards +them, they desisted.</p> + +<p>Next morning they burnt the ship which was laden with Spanish +wares, and took the other along with them, continuing their +course, the captain sailing along shore in the pinnace, while the +ship kept about a league farther out to sea, going in search of a +ship of which they had intelligence. After sailing in this manner +about forty-five leagues, they found the ship of which they were +in search, at anchor in a haven; but having intelligence a few +hours before, of an English pirate or sea-rover, she had landed +800 bars of silver belonging to the king of Spain; but the +English durst not go on shore to search for it, as many Spaniards +and Indians stood there as a well-armed guard. They found +nothing, therefore, in this ship except three pipes of water. +Taking this ship out to sea about a league, they hoisted all her +sails and let her drive, doing the like with the ship they took +at Arica, and that also they had taken at St Jago, continuing +their course with their own ship and pinnace.</p> + +<p>When about seven leagues from Calao de Lima, they spied three +ships, one of which they boarded, and took three men out of her, +and then continued their course for Calao, which haven they +entered about two or three hours after night-fall, sailing in +among the middle of seventeen ships which lay there at anchor. +Being among these ships, they enquired for the ship which had the +silver on board; but learning that all the silver had been +carried on shore, they cut the cables of all the ships and the +masts of the two largest, and so left them. At this time, there +arrived a ship from Panama, laden with Spanish wares and +merchandise, which anchored close by the English ship, while the +English captain was searching among the other ships for the +silver. When the ship of Panama was anchored, a boat came off +from the shore to examine her, but coming in the dark to the +English ship, was told by one of the Spanish prisoners she was +the ship of Michael Angelo from Chili; on which one of the +Spaniards from the boat came up the side, but coming upon one of +her cannon, he was afraid and they made off, as the ships in +these seas carry no guns. The Panama ship hearing of this, cut +her cables and put to sea; which being perceived by the English, +who were close by, they followed in their pinnace. On getting up +with her, the English called out for them to surrender, but the +Spaniards killed one of their men by a musket-shot, on which the +pinnace returned. The English ship then set sail and overtook the +Spanish ship, when the crew took to their boat and escaped on +shore, leaving their ship to the English, who took her, and +continued her course to the northwards.</p> + +<p>Next day the English saw a boat under sail making towards +them, which they suspected to be a spy, and soon afterwards +perceived two great ships coming to meet them, which they +supposed had been sent on purpose to fight them. On this they +cast loose the Panama ship, in which they left John the Greek and +two men they had taken the night before in Calao harbour; and +then made all sail, not once setting eye again upon the two great +ships, which made direct for the Panama ship. The English +continued their course to the northwards along the coast; and +some days afterwards met a frigate or small vessel bound for +Lima, laden with wares and merchandise of the country, whence the +English took a lamp and fountain of silver. They enquired of the +people in this ship if they had met a ship, which they understood +was laden with silver; on which one pilot said he had not seen +any such, while another said he had met her about three days +before. This frigate was taken by the pinnace, in which the +English captain sailed close by the shore, the English ship +keeping about a league and a half from land. On receiving this +information, the English let the frigate go, and continued their +course to the northwards.</p> + +<p>Two days afterwards, they came to the harbour of Payta, where +they found a ship laden with Spanish wares, which was boarded and +taken by the pinnace, without resistance, most of the crew +escaping on shore. From this ship, the English took the pilot, +with all the bread and other provisions. About two days after, +they boarded a ship belonging to Panama, from which they only +took a negro. Next day, being the 1st February, they met another +ship of Panama, laden with fish and other victuals, having also +forty bars of silver and some gold, but I know not how much, +which they took, sending the passengers in a boat to the land, +among whom were two friars. Next day, the English captain hanged +a man of the Panama ship, for secreting two plates of gold, which +were found about him, after which that ship was turned +adrift.</p> + +<p>Towards noon of the 1st March, they descried the ship laden +with silver, being then about four leagues to seawards of them: +and, as the English ship sailed somewhat heavily, being too much +by the head, they hung a quantity of botijas, or Spanish earthen +pots which had contained oil, and now filled with water, over the +stern of their ship, to give her a better trim and to improve her +sailing. The treasure ship, thinking the English vessel had been +one of those which usually sail upon that coast, made towards +her, and when near, the English captain hailed her to surrender: +As the Spanish captain refused, the English fired some cannons, +by one of which the Spanish ship's mast was shot over board, and +her master being wounded by an arrow, she presently yielded. +Thereupon the English took possession of her, and sailed with her +directly out to sea all that night, and the next day and night. +Being entirely out of sight of land, they began to search their +prize on the third day, removing her cargo into their own ship, +being 1300 bars or wedges of silver, and fourteen chests of rials +of eight, besides some gold, but how much of that I know not, +only that the passengers said there was great store. They told me +also, that 300 of the silver bars belonged to the king, and all +the rest to the merchants. That done, they allowed the ship to go +away with all her men, putting into her the three pilots they had +hitherto carried with them.</p> + +<p>From thence they sailed onwards for Nicaragua, and descried +land about the 13th March, being an island named Canno, not very +high, about two leagues from the main land, where they found a +small bay, in which they anchored in five fathoms close to the +shore, remaining there till the 20th. On that day a bark passed +close to the land, which was captured by the English pinnace, +being laden with sarsaparilla, and botijas or pots of butter and +honey, with other things. Throwing all the sarsaparilla +overboard, the English removed all their cannon into this bark, +and then laid their own ship on shore to new caulk and trim her +bottom. This being done, and taking in a supply of wood and +water, they held their course along shore to the westwards, +taking the Spanish bark along with them. After two days, they +removed the men from her, giving them the pinnace. Among these +were four sailors, bound for Panama, meaning to go thence for +China, one of whom had many letters and patents, among which were +letters from the king of Spain to the governor of the +Philippines, as also the charts which are used in that +voyage.</p> + +<p>Continuing their course, the English descried, on the 6th of +April, a ship about two leagues out to sea, which they took early +next morning, in which was Don Francisco Xarate. Continuing their +course, they came to the haven of Guatalco on Monday the 13th +April, where they remained at anchor till the 26th of that month, +on which day they sailed to the westwards, putting me, Nuno da +Silva, on board a ship then in the said harbour of Guatalco.</p> + +<p>SECTION VII.</p> + +<p><i>Second Supplement, being the Voyage of Mr John Winter, +after parting from Sir Francis Drake</i>.[41]</p> + +<p>We passed Cape Deseado into the South Sea on the 6th +September, 1578, and run to the N.W. about 70 leagues, when the +wind turned directly against us, with extremely foul weather, as +rain, hail, snow, and thick fogs, and so continued for more than +three weeks, during which time we could bear no sail, and were +driven into the latitude of 57° S. On the 15th September, the +moon was eclipsed, beginning to be darkened immediately after +sun-set, about six in the evening, being then the vernal equinox +in this southern hemisphere. This eclipse happened in England on +the 16th before one in the morning, which is about six hours +difference, agreeing to one quarter of the circumference of the +globe, from the meridian of England to the west.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 41: Hakluyt, IV. 253.--This narrative is +said to have been written by Edward Cliffe, mariner. Only so much +of the narrative is given here as relates to the voyage of +Winter, after parting from Sir Francis Drake. One circumstance +only may be mentioned, respecting the Patagons.--"These men be of +no such stature as the Spaniards report, being but of the height +of Englishmen; for I have seen men in England taller than I could +see any of them. Peradventure the Spaniards did not think that +any Englishmen would have come hither so soon, to have disproved +them in this and divers others of their notorious lies; wherefore +they presumed more boldly to abuse the world."--Yet even recent +voyagers have presumed to <i>abuse the world</i>, with reporting +that the Patagons are of gigantic stature.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The last of September, being a very foul night, we lost the +Marigold, a bark of about thirty tons, the Pelican, which was our +general's ship, and our ship the Elizabeth running to the +eastwards, to get to the land. Of this we got sight on the 7th +October, falling into a very dangerous bay, full of rocks; and +that same night we lost company of Mr Drake. Next day, very +difficultly escaping from the dangerous rocks among which we were +embayed, we got again into the Straits of Magellan, where we +anchored in an open bay for two days, making great fires on the +shore, that Mr Drake might find us, if he also came into the +straits.</p> + +<p>We then went into a sound, where we remained about three +weeks, naming it <i>The Port of Health</i>, as most of our men, +having been sick with long watching, wet, cold, and bad diet, did +wonderfully recover their health here in a short space, for which +praised be God. We found here muscles of very great size, some +being twenty inches long, yielding very pleasant meat, and many +of them full of seed pearls. We came out of this harbour on the +1st November, abandoning our voyage by compulsion of Mr. Winter, +sore against the will of the mariners. Mr. Winter alleged that he +despaired of having winds to carry him to the coast of Peru, and +was also in fear that Mr. Drake had perished. So we went back +again to the eastwards through the straits, to St. George's +island, where we laid in a quantity of a certain kind of fowl, +very plentiful in that island, the meat of which is not much +unlike that of a fat English goose. They have no wings, but only +short pinions, which serve them in swimming, being of a black +colour, mixed with white spots on their bellies and round their +necks. They walk so upright, that they seem afar like little +children; and when approached they conceal themselves in holes +under ground, not very deep, of which the island is full. To take +them, we used sticks having hooks fastened at one end, with which +we pulled them out, while other men stood by with cudgels to +knock them on the head; for they bit so cruelly with their hooked +bills, that we could not handle them when alive.[42]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 42: It is almost unnecessary to remark that +these were penguins.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Departing from St. George's island, we passed Cape Virgin[43] +on the 11th November, going out of the straits into the southern +Atlantic ocean, and directed our course to the N.E. till the last +day of that month, when we arrived at an island in the mouth of +the <i>Rio de la Plata</i>, or River of Silver. On this island +there is an incredible number of seals, some of which are sixteen +feet long, not fearing the approach of men. Most of our men were +ashore in this island for fifteen days, setting up a pinnace; +during which time the seals would often come and sleep beside our +men, rather resisting them than giving place, unless when mortal +blows forced them to yield. Having finished our pinnace, we went +to another island, where we watered, and afterwards departed on +the 1st January, 1579. We went to the northwards till the 20th of +that month, when we came to an island on the coast of Brazil, +near a town called St Vincent, inhabited by the Portuguese, which +is in lat. 24° S. Here we lost our pinnace in foul weather, +together with her crew of eight men. And here also our ship was +in great danger, in consequence of a strong current, which almost +forced her on shore before we were aware, so that we had to drop +anchor in the open sea, broke our cable and lost our anchor, and +had to let fell another, in weighing which afterwards our men +were sore distressed; for, owing to the heaving of the ship with +the sea, the capstan ran round with so much violence as to throw +the men from the bars, dashed out the brains of one man, broke +the leg of another, and severely hurt several more. At length we +hove up our anchor, and ran to a place called Tanay. where we +rode under the lee of an island, whence we had a supply of wood +and water.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 43: Called Cape Victory by Mr +Cliffe.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>While at this place, three Portuguese came aboard in a canoe, +desiring to know who we were and what we wanted. Our captain made +answer, that we were Englishmen, and had brought commodities with +us for their country, if they would trade with us, at which they +seemed much surprised, as they said they had never before heard +of any English ship being in that country. So they went ashore, +taking one of our men with them to speak with the governor of the +town, while we detained one of the Portuguese as a pledge. Soon +after there came another canoe on board, in which was one +Portuguese, all the rest being naked natives of the country. From +this man we had two small oxen, a young hog, and several fowls, +with pome-citrons, lemons, oranges, and other fruits, for which +our captain gave them linen cloth, combs, knives, and other +articles of small value. In the mean time, the governor of the +town sent word that we should have nothing, unless the ship was +brought into the harbour, to which our captain would not consent, +lest they might betray us.</p> + +<p>Receiving back our man, and returning the Portuguese pledge, +we went afterwards to the island of St. Sebastian, where we took +fish. At this place the Portuguese would have betrayed us, had +not a Brasilian slave informed us by signs, that they were coming +in canoes to take us, as it actually fell out: For, next morning, +they came on in twelve or fourteen canoes, some of these having +forty men; but being on our guard they retired. That same night, +two of our men carried away our boat, deserting to the +Portuguese. Leaving this place, we had sight of Cape St Augustine +in lat. 8° S. We afterwards had sight of the isle of Fernando +Noronha, within three degrees of the equator. We crossed the line +on the 13th of April, and got sight of the north star on the 19th +of that month.</p> + +<p>From the 1st to the 5th of May, we sailed about 100 leagues +through the <i>Sea of Weeds</i>, under the tropic of Cancer. +Holding our course from thence to the N.E. till we were in lat. +47° N. we changed our course on the 22nd May to E.N.E. The +29th of May we had soundings in seventy fathoms on white ooze, +being then in lat. 51° N. The 30th of May we got sight of St +Ives on the north coast of Cornwall, and arrived on the 2nd of +June at Ilfracomb, in Devonshire.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-3" id="chapter4-3">CHAPTER III.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE OF SIR THOMAS CANDISH ROUND THE WORLD, IN +1586--1588.[44]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>It was the constant policy, during the reign of queen +Elizabeth, to encourage, as much as possible, the flame of public +spirit in private individuals, by shewing the utmost readiness on +all occasions to honour all who performed any remarkable service +to their country, though sparing of such marks of favour on other +occasions. By this wise conduct, and by her frequent public +discourses on the glory resulting from an active life, she +excited many of the young nobility, and gentlemen of easy +fortunes, to hazard their persons and estates in the public +service, exciting a desire of fame even among the wealthy, and by +this means uniting the rich, who desired to purchase honour, and +the indigent, who sought to procure the means of living, in the +same pursuits. It thus happened in her reign, that such men were +of most use to their country, as are scarcely of any utility in +other reigns; for, merit being then the only recommendation at +court, those were most forward to expose themselves in generous +undertakings, who would at any other time have thought themselves +excused from such dangers and fatigues.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 44: Hakluyt, IV. 816. Harris, Col. I. 23. +Callender, Voy. I. 424. The earliest account of this voyage, +according to the Bibliotheque Universelle des Voyages, I. 113, +appears to have been published in Dutch at Amsterdam, in folio, +in 1598. But must assuredly have been a translation from the +English.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Thus the earls of Cumberland and Essex, Sir Richard Greenvile, +Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Sir Robert Dudley, and, +many other persons of rank and fortune, employed great sums of +money, and exposed themselves to the greatest dangers, in +expeditions against the Spaniards, making discoveries in distant +parts of the world, and planting colonies, which were the glory +of those times. Among these, no one distinguished himself more +than the gentleman whose voyage forms the subject of this +chapter: whether we consider the expence he incurred, the +difficulties he encountered, or the success of his enterprise; +all of which proceeded from that greatness of mind and ardent +desire of fame, which taught him to despise danger and to +encounter fatigue, at an age when most men of fortune think the +season of youth a sufficient excuse for the indulgence of luxury +and ease.</p> + +<p>Thomas Candish, or Cavendish, of Trimley, in the county of +Suffolk, Esquire, was a gentleman of an honourable family and +large estate, which lay in the neighbourhood of Ipswich, then a +place of very considerable trade. This circumstance gave him an +early inclination for the sea, which he gratified as soon as he +came of age, by selling part of his estate, and employing the +money in equipping a stout bark of 120 tons, called the Tiger, in +which he accompanied Sir Richard Greenvile in his voyage to +Virginia in 1585. In this expedition he underwent many dangers +and difficulties, without any profit, but returned safe to +Falmouth on the 6th October of the same year. This want of +success did not discourage him from undertaking still greater and +more hazardous expeditions. Having, in his voyage to Virginia, +seen a considerable part of the Spanish West Indies, and +conversed with some persons who had sailed with Sir Francis Drake +in, his circumnavigation, he became desirous of undertaking a +similar voyage, as well for repairing the loss he had sustained +in this first expedition, as to emulate that great and fortunate +commander, who was now raised to the highest honours in his +profession.</p> + +<p>Returning home, therefore, he immediately applied himself to +make such preparations as were necessary for the accomplishment +of his new design; and either sold or mortgaged his estate, to +procure a sufficient sum for building and equipping two such +ships as he deemed requisite for the voyage; using such +diligence, that his carpenters were at work upon his largest ship +within a month, and in six months more his little squadron was +entirely finished, and completely supplied with every necessary +for the voyage.</p> + +<p>The narrative of this voyage is chiefly taken from that given +by Harris, compared and corrected from that in the collection of +Hakluyt, which is said to have been written by Mr. Francis Pretty +of Eye, in Suffolk, a gentleman who sailed, in the expedition. In +Hakluyt, this circumnavigation is thus styled:--"The admirable +and prosperous voyage of the worshipful Mr. Thomas Candish of +Trimley, in the county of Suffolk, Esquire, into the South Sea, +and from thence round about the circumference of the whole earth, +began in the year of our Lord 1586, and finished 1588."</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage from England to the +Pacific</i>.</p> + +<p>The larger ship of this little squadron was named the Desire, +of 140 tons burden, and the lesser the Content of 60 tons, to +which was added a bark of 40 tons, called the Hugh Gallant, all +supplied at his own expence with two years provisions, and manned +with 123 officers and men, most of them men of experience, and +some of whom had served under Sir Francis Drake. For their better +encouragement, he entered into a fair agreement with them, with +respect to the proportions in which all prizes should be shared +among them. He was likewise careful in providing maps, sea +charts, and draughts, and all such accounts as could be procured +of voyages already made into those parts which he intended to +visit. Likewise, by means of his patron, Lord Hansdon, the +lord-chamberlain, he procured a commission from Queen +Elizabeth.</p> + +<p>Having thus completed his preparations, he set out from London +on the 10th July, 1586, for Harwich, where he embarked in the +Desire, and sailed thence for Plymouth, where he arrived on the +18th, and waited there for some of his company till the 21st of +that month, when he hoisted sail on his intended voyage. On the +25th of that month, one Mr. Hope died, of a wound received in a +duel, during their stay at Plymouth. Next day, they fell in with +five ships of Biscay, well manned, coming, as they supposed, from +the great bank of Newfoundland, which attacked the Desire; but +Mr. Candish gave them so warm a reception, that they were glad to +sheer off, and continued their course without giving him any +farther disturbance. As it grew dark, and he feared losing sight +of his consorts, Mr. Candish did not continue the chase.</p> + +<p>They fell in with the island of Fuertaventura, on the 1st +August, whence they sailed for Rio del Oro and Cape Blanco, and +thence along the coast of Guinea, with which navigation Mr +Brewer, who sailed in the Desire, was well acquainted. The men +now began to complain much of the scurvy, wherefore it was +resolved to put them on shore for their recovery on the first +opportunity. They made Sierra Leona on the 23d of August, and +reached its southern side on the 25th, where they had five +fathoms at the lowest ebb; having had for about fourteen leagues, +while running into this harbour, from eight to sixteen fathoms. +At this place they destroyed a negro town, because the +inhabitants had killed one of their men with a poisoned arrow. +Some of the men went four miles up the harbour in a boat, on the +3d September, where they caught plenty of fish; and going on +shore, procured some lemons. They saw also some buffaloes, on +their return to the ship. The 6th they went out of the harbour of +Sierra Leona, and staid one tide three leagues from the point at +its mouth, the tide there flowing S.W.</p> + +<p>The 7th they departed for one of the islands which lie about +ten leagues from the point of Sierra Leona, called the Banana +isles,[45] and anchored that same day off the principal isle, on +which they only found a few plantains. At the east end of this +island they found a town, but no inhabitants, and concluded that +the negroes sometimes resort thither, by seeing the remains of +their provisions. There is no fresh water on the south side of +this island that they could find; but there is in three or four +places on its north side. The whole island was one entire wood, +except a few small cleared spots where some huts stood, and these +were encompassed by plantain-trees, the fruit of which is an +excellent food. This place is subject to severe thunder-storms, +with much rain, in September.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 45: Harris erroneously names these the +islands of Cape Verd, which are at a vast distance from Sierra +Leona. The Banana isles are in lat. 8° N. and long. 12° +30' W. from Greenwich. In Hakluyt these are called the isles of +Madrabumba, and are said to be ten leagues from the point of +Sierra Leona.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving these islands and the African coast on the 10th +September, and holding their course W.S.W. obliquely across the +Atlantic, they fell in with a great mountain in Brazil, on the +31st of October, twenty-four leagues from Cape <i>Frio</i>. This +mountain has a high round top, shewing from afar like a little +town. On the 1st November, they stood in between the island of St +Sebastian and the main; where they carried their things on shore, +and erected a forge, and built a pinnace, repairing also every +thing that was out of order, in which work they were detained +till the 23d of November. Sailing from this place on the 26th, +they fell in with the coast of South America again in lat. +47° 20' S. whence they proceeded along shore till they came +to lat. 48° S. finding a steep beach all along. On the 27th +of November they came to a harbour, into which Candish first +entered, giving it the name of Port Desire, from that of his +ship.[46] Near this harbour they found an island or two well +stocked with seals, and another in which there were vast numbers +of grey gulls.[47]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 46: As laid down in modern maps, the +latitude of Port Desire is only 47° 15' S.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 47: Probably penguins.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This haven of Port Desire was found very favourable for +careening and graving of ships, as the tide there ebbed and +flowed considerably. At this place the savages wounded two of the +Englishmen with their arrows, which were made of canes or reeds, +tipt with sharpened flints. These savage natives of the country +round Port Desire were exceedingly wild and rude, and as it would +seem of a gigantic race, as the measure of one of their foot +marks was eighteen inches long.[48] This agrees well with the +assertion of Magellan, though some pains have been taken to +represent that as fabulous. Magellan called this country +Patagonia, and its inhabitants Patagons, meaning to signify that +they were five cubits, or <i>seven feet and a half high</i>. +Hence, as the Portuguese are not commonly very tall, we need not +wonder if they styled them giants. If we take the usual +proportion of the human foot, as between a fifth and a sixth part +of the height of the whole body, the account given by Magellan +agrees very exactly with this fact afforded us by Mr Candish; and +it will be seen in the sequel, that this is not falsified by any +of our subsequent navigators. When any of these savages die, he +is buried in a grave constructed of stones near the sea-side, all +his darts being fastened about his tomb, and his treasure, +consisting of shells, laid under his head.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 48: Without meaning to impugn the received +opinion, that the Patagons are beyond the ordinary size of man, +it may be permitted to say, that the evidence, in the text, the +only one here adduced, is altogether inconclusive; and the +subsequent reflections are evidently those of Harris, not of +Candish.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They left Port Desire on the 28th December, and anchored near +an island three leagues to the southward. The 30th they came to a +rock, much like the Eddystone at Plymouth, about five leagues off +the land, in lat 48° 30' S. and within a mile of it had +soundings in eight fathoms, on rocky ground. Continuing their +course along shore S.S.W. they found vast numbers of seals every +where on the coast. January 2d, 1587, they fell in with a great +white cape in lat. 52° S. and had seven fathoms within a +league of the cape. Next day they came to another cape, in lat. +52° 45' S. whence runs a long beach about a league to the +southwards, reaching to the opening into the Straits of +Magellan.[49] January 6th, they entered the straits, which they +found in some places five or six leagues wide, but in others +considerably narrower. The 7th, between the mouth of the straits +and its narrowest part, they took a Spaniard, who had been left +there with twenty-three others of that nation, being all that +remained alive of four hundred, who had been landed three years +before in these straits. This Spaniard shewed them the hull of a +small bark, supposed to have been left by Sir Francis Drake.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 49: The cape at the north side of the +eastern entrance into the Straits of Magellan, is named Cape +Virgin, and is in lat 52° 28' S. The great white cape in lat. +52° S. is not so easily ascertained. Cape Blanco, on this +coast, is in lat. 47° S. which cannot have any reference to +the white cape of the text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The eastern mouth of the straits is in lat. 52° S. From +thence to the narrowest part is fourteen leagues W. by N. From +thence to Penguin Island is ten leagues W.S.W. by S. They +anchored at Penguin Island on the 8th January, where they killed +and salted a great store of seals, to serve as sea provisions in +case of need. Leaving this place on the 9th, they sailed S.S.W. +The fortress built in these straits by the Spaniards, called +<i>Ciudad del Rey Felippe</i>, had four bulwarks or bastions, in +each of which was one large cannon, all of which had been buried, +and their carriages left standing. The English dug them all up, +and carried them away. Tins city seemed to have been well +contrived, especially in its situation in regard to wood and +water; but miserable was the life this forlorn remnant of +Spaniards had endured for the last two years, during which they +had hardly been able to procure any other food than a scanty +supply of shell-fish, except when they had the good fortune to +surprise a deer, coming down from the mountains in search of +water.</p> + +<p>The object of the Spaniards, in erecting this fortress, was to +have fortified the straits, so as to have excluded all other +nations from any passage into the South Sea: but, besides the +barrenness of the soil, and excessive severity of the climate +their most implacable enemies, the Indians, frequently assailed +them, so that they were reduced to the last extremity of +distress. All the stores they had brought from Spain were +expended, and none could be procured in the country, which +produced nothing but deer, and when hunting these for the +preservation of their lives, they were sure to be fallen upon by +the Indians. At length almost all the Spaniards died in their +houses, and the stench of the putrefying carcasses became so +intolerable to the few survivors, that they were forced to quit +the fortress, and to range along the seacoast living upon roots, +leaves, and sea weeds, or any animals they could occasionally +fall in with. In this miserable extremity they had determined to +attempt exploring their way to the Rio Plata, and were already on +their way, when this Spaniard was taken by the English.</p> + +<p>Mr Candish named the haven where the fortress stood <i>Port +Famine</i>, owing to the utter want of all necessaries. It is in +lat. 53° S. Leaving this place on the 14th, they ran five +leagues S.W. to Cape Froward, in the southernmost part of the +straits, in lat. 54° S. Sailing five leagues W. by N. from +this cape, they put into a bay, called Muscle Cove, from the +great quantities of muscles found there. Leaving that place on +the 21st, and sailing N. by W. ten leagues, they came to a fair +bay, which Candish named Elizabeth Bay. Leaving that place on the +22d, they found a good river two leagues farther on, up which a +boat was towed for three miles. The country about this river was +pleasant and level, but all the other land on both sides of the +straits was rugged, mountainous, and rocky, inhabited by a strong +and well-made, but very brutish kind of savages, who are said to +have eaten many of the Spaniards, and seemed much disposed to +have feasted also on English flesh; but they failed in their +attempts to circumvent them. Discovering a plot laid by these +savages to entrap him and his men, Candish gave them a volley of +musquetry, which slew several of them, and the rest ran away.</p> + +<p>Leaving this river, they sailed two leagues farther, to an +inlet named St Jerome's channel; whence, proceeding three or four +leagues W. they came to a cape to the northward, whence the +course to the western entrance of the straits is N.W. and N.W. by +W. for about thirty-four leagues; so that the entire length of +these straits is ninety leagues. This western entrance is in lat. +52° 40' S. nearly under the same parallel with the eastern +mouth. In consequence of storms and excessive rains, they were +forced to remain in a harbour near this western mouth of the +straits till the 23d of February. By the excessive rains, pouring +down with extreme fury in torrents from the mountains, they were +brought into extreme danger; and were also much distressed for +want of food, as the excessive severity of the weather hardly +permitted their landing, to range the country in search of a +supply In their passage through these straits, it was observed +that there were harbours on both shores, at every mile or two, +tolerably safe and convenient for small ships.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Transactions on the Western Coast of America</i>.</p> + +<p>The weather moderating, they entered into the great South Sea, +or Pacific Ocean, on the 24th February, 1587, observing on the +south side of the entrance a very high cape, with an adjoining +low point; while, at the northern side of the entrance there were +four or five islands, six leagues from the main land, having much +broken and sunken ground among and around them. In the night of +the 1st March, there arose a great storm, in which they lost +sight of the Hugh Gallant, being then in lat. 49° S. and +forty-five leagues from the land. This storm lasted three or four +days, in which time the Hugh sprung a leak, and was tossed about +in this unknown sea, devoid of all help, being every moment ready +to sink. By great exertions, however, she was kept afloat; and on +the 15th, in the morning, she got in between the island of St +Mary and the main, where she again met the admiral and the +Content, which two ships had secured themselves during two days +of the storm, at the island of Mocha, in lat. 38° S'.[50]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 50: Mocha is in lat. 38° 20', and the +isles of St Mary in 37°, both S.]</blockquote> + +<p>At this place some of the company went ashore well armed, and +were met by the Indians, who gave them a warm reception with +their bows and arrows. These Indians were of the district in +Chili called Araucania, a country rich in gold, and consequently +very tempting to the avaricious Spaniards, which accordingly they +had repeatedly invaded, but to no purpose, as the natives always +defended themselves so valiantly, that their enemies could never +subdue them. On the present occasion, mistaking the English for +Spaniards, these brave and desperate Araucans gave Candish a +hostile welcome. After this skirmish, Candish went with his ships +under the lee of the west side of St Mary's island, where he +found good anchorage in six fathoms. This island, in lat. 37° +S. abounds in hogs, poultry, and various kinds of fruit; but the +inhabitants are held under such absolute slavery by the +Spaniards, that they dare not kill a hog, or even a hen, for +their own use; and although the Spaniards have made them converts +to Christianity, they use them more like dogs than men or +Christians.</p> + +<p>The admiral went ashore on the 16th March, with seventy or +eighty men well armed, and was met by two Indian chiefs, who +conducted him to a chapel, round which were several store-houses, +well filled with wheat and barley, as clean and fair as any in +England. He accordingly provided his ships with a sufficient +store of grain from this place, and laid in besides an ample +supply of hogs, hens, potatoes, dried dog-fish, and maize or +Guinea wheat. The admiral invited the two principal Indians to an +entertainment on board; and the wine having sharpened their wit, +to perceive that the admiral and his men were not Spaniards, as +they had hitherto supposed them, they began to talk very freely +about the gold mines, saying that the English might procure gold +to their full content, by going into the country of the Araucans. +But not fully understanding them, as the information was mostly +given by signs, the admiral did not prosecute this proposed +adventure, but proceeded on his voyage.</p> + +<p>Leaving the island of St Mary on the 18th in the morning, they +sailed all that day N.N.E. ten leagues. The 19th they steered in +with the land, E.N.E. and anchored under an island in the Bay of +Conception, in lat. 36° 36' S. The 30th they came into the +Bay of Quintero, in lat. 32° 45' S. and next day a party of +fifty or sixty men, well armed, marched seven or eight miles into +the country. In their march, they saw vast herds of wild cattle, +with horses, dogs, hares, rabbits, partridges, and other birds, +with many fine rivers, well stocked with wild fowl. Having +travelled as far as they conveniently could for the mountains, +and having rested and refreshed on the banks of a pleasant river, +they returned in good order to the ships at night, without +meeting any remarkable adventure; although a party of 200 horse +had been abroad all that day in search of them, upon information +of some Spaniards who had seen them the preceding day, but durst +not venture to attack them, keeping always at a distance on the +hills. They had at this time a short conference with three +Spanish horsemen, through the medium of the poor half-starved +Spaniard they took on board in the Straits of Magellan; but, in +spite of his many oaths and protestations never to forsake +Candish, he took the opportunity to mount on horseback behind one +of his countrymen, and got off.</p> + +<p>Next day, the 1st April, some of the English being on shore +filling their water-casks, the Spaniards became bolder, and +watching an opportunity when the sailors were hard at work, +poured down with their 200 horse from the hills, slew some of +them, and made a few prisoners. But this glorious victory was +soon snatched from their hands by the arrival of a reinforcement +of fifteen English, who rescued the prisoners, killed twenty-four +of the Spaniards, and drove the rest back to the mountains. After +this, they continued in the road till the 5th, and watered there +in spite of the Spaniards. On the 5th they weighed anchor, and +went to a small island about a league from the bay, which is full +of penguins and other sea fowl, of which they provided themselves +with what store they wanted; after which they sailed N. and N. by +W. in order to prosecute their voyage.</p> + +<p>The 15th April they came to <i>Moro Moreno</i>, in lat. +23° 30' S. under the tropic of Capricorn, where there is an +excellent harbour, made by means of an island, having an entrance +for ships at either end. The admiral went ashore here with thirty +men, and was met by the Indians, who brought them water and wood +on their backs. These are a simple sort of people, living in a +wild and savage manner, in great dread of the Spaniards. They +brought the admiral and his company to their houses, about two +miles from the harbour. These were only constructed of a few +rafters laid across upon forked sticks stuck in the ground, +having a few boughs laid over them by way of a roof. Their beds +were the skins of wild beasts laid on the ground; and their food +little else than raw stinking fish. When any of them dies, he is +buried with all his arms and goods, as bows and arrows, and even +his canoe is laid in the earth along with him. Their canoes, if +such they may be called, consist of two skin bags, like large +bladders, blown up with quills at one end, and fastened together +by the sinews of some wild beast; yet in these they think nothing +of venturing to sea, loading them even with great quantities of +fish, part of which they have to give in tribute to the +Spaniards, the rest being kept to stink for their own eating.</p> + +<p>On the 3d May, they came into a bay on which were three small +towns, Paracca, Chincha, and Pisco, which latter is in lat. +13° 20' S.[51] They landed here, and took some provisions, as +wine, bread, poultry and figs, from the houses, but could not get +ashore at the best of these towns, owing to the sea running too +high. By this time; they had made two valuable prizes, laden with +sugar, melasses, maiz, cordovan leather, <i>montego de porco</i>, +packs of painted calicoes, Indian coats, marmalade, hens, and +other articles, which would have yielded £20,000, if there +had been any opportunity for selling their cargoes. That not +being the case, they took out as much as could be conveniently +stowed in their own ships, burning their two prizes with the rest +of their contents.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 51: Pisco, the principal of these towns, is +in lat. 16° 43'S.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 26th May, they came into the road Payta, in lat. 5° 4' +S. the town being very neat and clean, and containing about 200 +houses. Landing here with sixty or seventy men, Candish had a +skirmish with the inhabitants, whom he beat out of the town, +forcing them to take refuge in the hills, whence they continued +to fire at the English, but would not venture a fair battle on +the plain ground. Having possessed themselves of the town, the +English marched after the enemy on the hill, and put them +completely to the rout, seizing all their baggage, which they +brought back with them to the town. They here found all sort of +household stuff, together with warehouses well filled with +various kinds of goods, and twenty-five pound weight of silver in +pieces of eight. After taking away what plunder they found +convenient, they set fire to the town, which was burnt to the +ground, and destroyed likewise a bark at anchor in the roads; +after which they set sail for Puna.</p> + +<p>They arrived at Puna, in lat. 3° 10' S. on the 25th of +May, when they found a ship of 250 tons at anchor in the harbour. +After sinking her, they went ashore. The lord of this island, +styled the Caçique of Puna, was an Indian by birth, but +having married a Spanish woman, he became a Christian, and made +all his subjects follow his example. He had a sumptuous and +well-contrived palace near the shore, with curious gardens +adjoining, and fair prospects, both to the water and up the +country. All the inhabitants of this island were kept continually +employed in fabricating cables, such abundance of which are made +here by the Indian subjects of this caçique; that most of +the ships navigating the South Sea are supplied from hence. This +island is nearly as large as the isle of Wight in England, being +about forty English miles from S.W. to N.E. and sixteen in the +opposite direction. It enjoys a great share in the blessings of +nature; for, although it has no mines of gold or silver, it +affords every thing in abundance that is necessary to the +comforts of life. The pastures are excellent, and are well stored +with horses, oxen, sheep, and goats, yielding abundance of milk; +it has also plenty of poultry, turkeys, ducks of a large size, +and pigeons. The caçique has several orchards, yielding a +great variety of fine fruits, as oranges, lemons, figs, +pomegranates, pumpkins, melons, and many others; with a variety +of odoriferous plants, as rosemary, thyme, and the like. One of +these gardens or orchards was planted with the bombast cotton +tree, which grows in pods, in each of which there are seven or +eight seeds.</p> + +<p>The 29th of May, Candish went to an island near Puna, into +which the caçique had conveyed all the valuable furniture +of his palace, with other things of value. These stores were all +discovered, and plundered of every thing thought worth carrying +on board the ships, and the rest destroyed. The church also of +Puna, which stood near the palace, was burnt down, and its five +bells carried to the ships. On the 2d June, the English were +attacked by 100 Spaniards, who killed or took prisoners twelve of +their men, losing forty-six of their own in the encounter. +Candish landed again that same day with seventy English, and had +another battle with the Spaniards, who were joined by 200 Indians +armed with bows and arrows. The English were victorious, after +which they made great havock of the fields and orchards, burnt +four ships on the stocks, and left the town of 300 houses a heap +of rubbish. Besides this principal town, there were two others on +the island of 200 houses each, so that Puna was the best settled +island on all this coast.</p> + +<p>Setting sail from Puna on the 5th June, they sailed to Rio +Dolce, where they watered. They passed the equinoctial on the +12th, continuing their course northwards all the rest of that +month. The 1st July, they had sight of New Spain, being four +leagues from the land in 10° N. The 9th they took a new ship +of 120 tons, in which was one Michael Sancius, a native of +Provence, a very skilful coasting pilot for these seas, whom +Candish retained as his pilot, and from whom he got the first +hint of the great ship Anna Maria, which he afterwards took on +her voyage from the Philippine islands. Taking all the men, and +every thing of any value from the ship of Sancius, they set her +on fire. The 26th they came to anchor in the mouth of the river +Capalico, and the same night went in the pinnace with thirty men +to Guatalco, two leagues from that river, in 15° 70' N. and +burnt both the town and custom-house, which was a large handsome +building, in which there were laid up 600 bags of indigo, and 400 +bags of cacao, every bag of the former being worth forty crowns, +and each of the latter worth ten. These cacaos serve among the +people of these parts both as food and money, being somewhat like +almonds, yet not quite so pleasant, and pass in trade by way of +small change, 150 of them being equal in value to a rial of +plate.</p> + +<p>They set sail from Capalico on the 28th, the sea running so +high that they could not fill their water casks, and came to +Guatalco that same night. Next day Candish went ashore with +thirty men, marching two miles into the woods, where he took a +<i>mestizo</i> belonging to the custom-house of that town, having +with him a considerable quantity of goods, both which and their +master were carried to the ships. The 24th August, Candish went +with thirty men in the pinnace to the haven of <i>Puerto de +Navidad</i> in lat. 19° 24' N. where Sancius had informed him +there would be a prize; but, before their arrival, she had gone +twelve leagues farther to fish for pearls. They here made +prisoner of a mulatto, who had been sent to give notice of the +English, all along the coast of New Gallicia, and got possession +of all his letters. They likewise burnt the town, and two ships +of 200 tons here building, after which they returned to the +ships.</p> + +<p>They came on the 26th into the bay of St Jago, where they +watered at a good river, which yielded them plenty of fish, and +where they found some pearls. This bay is in lat. 19° 18' N. +Leaving this bay on the 2d September, they came next day into the +bay of Malacca, a league westward from port Navidad, and a good +place for ships to ride in. That day, Candish went ashore with +about thirty men, to an Indian town named Acatlan, about two +leagues from the road.[52] This town or village consisted of +twenty or thirty houses and a church, which they demolished, and +then returned at night to the ships. Leaving this bay on the 4th, +they came on the 8th to the road of Chacalla, eighteen leagues +from Cape Corientes. On the 9th, Candish sent a party of forty +men, guided by Sancius, which, after marching through woods and +deserts, lighted upon a few families, some of which were Indians, +and others Spanish and Portuguese, all of whom were brought to +the ships. The women were ordered to fetch plantains, lemons, +oranges, and other fruits, in reward for which all their husbands +were set free, except a Spaniard named Sembrano, and Diego, a +Portuguese.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 52: Guatlan is the name of a bay on this +coast, and which is probably corrupted in the text to +Acatlan.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 12th they arrived at the island of St Andrew, which is +very full of wood, and where they found plenty of fowls and +seals, together with a sort of serpents, or lizards rather, +called <i>Iguanos</i>, having four feet and a long sharp tail, +which they found good eating. Leaving this isle, they came to the +road of Mazatlan on the 24th, lying under the tropic of Cancer. +The river here is large within, but much obstructed by a bar at +its mouth. The bay abounds with fish, and there are abundance of +good fruits up the country. Departing from this bay on the 27th, +they came to an island, a league north from Mazatlan,[53] where +they heeled their ships, and rebuilt their pinnace. On this isle, +they found fresh water, by digging two or three feet into the +sand, otherwise they must have gone back twenty or thirty leagues +for water, being advised by one Flores, a Spanish prisoner, to +dig in the sands, where no water or sign of any could be +perceived. Having amply supplied the ships with water, they +remained at this island till the 9th October, and then sailed +from Cape San Lucar, the S.W. point of California, in lat. +22° 50' N. which they fell in with on the 14th, observing +that it much resembled the Needles at the Isle of Wight, which +had been before noticed by Sir Francis Drake. Within this cape, +there is a large bay, called by the Spaniards <i>Aguada +Segura</i>,[54] into which falls a fine fresh-water river, the +banks of which are usually inhabited by many Indians in the +summer. They went into this bay, where they again watered, and +remained waiting for the Accapulco ship till the 4th November, +the wind continuing all that time to hang westerly.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 53: In our best modern maps no such island +is to be found; but about the same distance to the S. is a +cluster of small isles.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 54: Probably that now called the bay of St +Barnaby, about twenty miles E.N.E. from Cape San +Lucar.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 4th November, putting to sea, the Desire and Content beat +to and fro to windward off the head land of California; and that +very morning one of the men in the admiral, going aloft to the +topmast, espied a ship bearing in from seaward for the cape. +Putting every thing in readiness for action, Candish gave chase, +and coming up with her in the afternoon, gave her a broadside and +a volley of small arms. This ship was the Santa Anna of 700 tons +burden, belonging to the king of Spain, and commanded by the +admiral of the South Sea. Candish instantly boarded, finding the +Spaniards in a good posture of defence, and was repulsed with the +loss of two men slain and four or five wounded. He then renewed +the action with his cannon and musquetry, raking the St Ann, and +killing or wounding great numbers, as she was full of men. The +Spaniards long defended themselves manfully; but the ship being +sore wounded, so that the water poured in a-main, they at last +hung out a flag of truce, praying for quarter, and offering to +surrender. This was immediately agreed to by Candish, who ordered +them to lower their sails, and to send their chief officers to +his ship. They accordingly hoisted out their boat, in which came +the captain, the pilot, and one of the chief merchants, who +surrendered themselves, and gave an account of the value of their +ship, in which were 122,000 pezos in gold, with prodigious +quantities of rich silks, satins, damasks, and divers kinds of +merchandise, such as musk, and all manner of provisions, almost +as acceptable to the English as riches, having been long at +sea.</p> + +<p>The prize thus gloriously obtained, Candish returned to +<i>Aguada</i>, or <i>Puerto Seguro</i>, on the 6th November, +where he landed all the Spaniards, to the number of 150 persons, +men and women, giving them plenty of wine and victuals, with the +sails of their ship and some planks, to build huts or tents for +them to dwell in. The owners of the prize being thus disposed of, +the next thing was to share the booty; which ungracious work of +distribution soon involved Candish in all the troubles of a +mutiny, every one being eager for gold, yet no one satisfied with +his share. This disturbance was most violent in the Content; but +all was soon appeased and compromised by the candid and generous +behaviour of Candish. The 17th of November, being the coronation +day of queen Elizabeth, was celebrated by discharges of ordnance, +and vollies of small shot, and at night by fireworks. Of the +prisoners taken in the Spanish ship, Candish reserved two +Japanese boys, three natives of the island of Luzon or Manilla, a +Portuguese who had been in China and Japan, and a Spanish pilot, +who was thoroughly versant in the navigation between New Spain +and the Philippine islands. Accapulco is the haven whence they +fit out for the Philippines, and the Ladrones are their stated +places of refreshment on this voyage.</p> + +<p>Having dismissed the Spanish captain with a noble present, and +sufficient provision for his defence against the Indians, and +removed everything from the prize which his ships could contain, +Candish set the Santa Anna on fire on the 19th November, having +still 500 tons of her goods remaining, and saw her burnt to the +water's edge.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Voyage Home to England</i>.</p> + +<p>This great business, for which they had so long waited, being +now accomplished, they set sail cheerfully on their return for +England. The Content staid some short time behind the Desire, +which went on before, expecting she would soon follow, but she +never rejoined company. Pursuing the voyage, therefore, in the +Desire, Candish directed his course for the Ladrones across the +Pacific Ocean, these islands being nearly 1800 leagues distant +from this harbour of <i>Aguada Segura</i> in California. This +passage took forty-five days, from the 19th November, 1587, to +the 3d January, 1588. On this day, early in the morning, they had +sight of Guam, one of the Ladrones, in lat. 13° 40' N. and +long. 143° 30' E. Sailing with a gentle gale before the wind, +they came within two leagues of the island, where they saw sixty +or seventy canoes full of savages, who brought cocoas, plantains, +potatoes, and fresh fish, to exchange for some of their +commodities. They gave them in return some pieces of old iron, +which they hung upon small cords and fishing lines, and so +lowered down to the canoes, getting back, in the same manner, +what the savages offered in exchange. In the course of this +traffic the savages crowded so much about the ship, that two of +their canoes were broken; yet none of the savages were drowned, +as they were almost as familiar with the water as if they had +been fishes. The savages continued following the ship, and would +not quit her company till several shots were fired at them; +though 'tis ten to one if any of them were killed, as they are so +very nimble, throwing themselves immediately into the water, and +diving beyond the reach of danger on the slightest warning.</p> + +<p>These islanders were large handsome men, extraordinarily fat, +and of a tawny colour, mostly having very long hair, some wearing +it tied up in large knots on the crown of their heads, like +certain wooden images at the heads of their canoes. Their canoes +were very artificially made, considering that they use no +edge-tools in their construction; and are about seven or eight +yards in length, by half a yard only in breadth, their heads and +stems being both alike, and having rafts made of canes or reeds +on their starboard sides, being also supplied both with masts and +sails. These latter are made of sedges, and are either square or +triangular. These canoes have this property, that they will sail +almost as well against the wind as before it.</p> + +<p>On the 19th January, at day-break, Candish fell in with a +head-land of the Philippine islands, called <i>Cabo del Espiritu +Santo</i>. The island itself [Samar] is of considerable size, +consisting of high land in the middle, and depressed in its east +and west extremities; the latter of which runs a great way out to +sea. It is in lat. 30° N. being distant 110 leagues from Guam +and about 60 leagues from Manilla, the chief of the +Philippines.[55] Samar is a woody island, and its inhabitants are +mostly heathens. Candish spent eleven days in sailing from Guam +to this place, having had some foul weather, and scarcely +carrying any sail for two or three nights. Manilla, at this time, +was an unwalled town of no great strength, yet containing vast +riches in gold and valuable commodities, and inhabited by six or +seven hundred Spaniards. It has a constant annual correspondence +with Accapulco in New Spain; besides which twenty or thirty +vessels come thither yearly from China, for conducting its trade +with the <i>Sangueloes</i>: These are Chinese merchants, very +sharp and sensible men in every thing relating to trade, +extremely ingenious in all kinds of mechanical contrivances, and +the most expert embroiderers on silk and satin of any in the +world. They will execute any form of beast, fowl, or fish, in +gold, silver, or silk, having all the just proportions and +colours in every part, and giving all the life and beauty to +their work, as if done by the best painter, or even as nature has +bestowed on the originals. The trade of these men with Manilla +must be very profitable, as they bring great quantities of gold +there, and exchange it against silver, weight for weight.[56]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 55: The latitude of Cape Espiritu Santo, as +given in the test, is grossly erroneous, being only 12° 35' +N. and its long. 125° 30' E. from Greenwich. The difference +of longitude from Guam, Guaham, or Guaci, the most southerly of +the Ladrones, is 17° 45' nearly east, and consequently 355 +marine leagues. This island is divided from Luzon, or +Luçonia, the principal island of the Philippines, by the +narrow straits of San Bernardino; and Cape Espiritu Santo is +about 100 leagues, in a straight line, from the city of Manilla, +which lies to the N.W. Cape Espiritu Santo is at the N.W. +extremity of the island of Samar.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 56: This surely is an egregious error, as +such acute merchants as the Chinese are here represented, and +actually are, could never be so foolish as to give gold for +silver, weight for weight. Before the present scarcity of +bullion, the ordinary European price of exchange, was fourteen +for one; and perhaps the then price in China might be lower, as +twelve, eleven, or ten; but equality is quite +inconceivable.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The same day on which he fell in with Cape Espiritu Santo, +14th of January, 1588, Candish entered in the evening into the +straits of San Bernardino, between Samar or Cambaia, and the +island of Luzon. The 15th he fell in with the island of +<i>Capul</i>, passing a very narrow strait between that island +and another, in which the current of the tide was considerable. +In this passage, a ledge of rocks lay off the point of Capul, but +was passed without danger. Within the point was a fair bay, with +a good harbour, having anchorage in four fathoms, within a +cable's length of the shore. Coming to anchor here about ten in +the morning, the Desire was immediately boarded by a canoe, in +which was one of the seven chiefs of the island. Passing +themselves for Spaniards, the English traded with these people +for cocoa-nuts and potatoes, giving a yard of linen for four +cocoa-nuts, and as much for about a quart of potatoes, which they +found sweet and excellent food, either boiled or roasted.</p> + +<p>The caçique or chief who came on board had his skin +curiously streaked or painted [tatooed], full of strange devices +all over his body. Candish kept him on board, desiring him to +send his servants, who paddled his canoe, to bring the other six +chiefs to the ship. They came accordingly, attended by a great +train of the natives, bringing vast quantities of hogs and hens, +and a full market of cocoa-nuts and potatoes; so that the English +were occupied the whole day in purchasing, giving eight rials of +plate for a hog, and one for a hen. At this place, a +justly-merited punishment was inflicted on a Spanish pilot, taken +in the Santa Anna, who had plotted to betray them to the +Spaniards, and for which he was hanged. Candish remained here for +nine days, all the time receiving ample supplies of fresh +victuals, good water, and wood for fuel. The islanders are all +pagans, who are said to worship the devil, and to converse with +him. They are of a tawny complexion, and go almost naked; the men +wearing a small square piece of cloth in front, woven from +plantain-leaves, and another behind, which is brought up between +their legs, both being fastened to a girdle round their waists. +They are all circumcised, and have also a strange custom, hardly +practised any where else but in Pegu, having a nail of tin in a +perforation through the glans, which nail is split at one end and +rivetted; but which can be taken out as they have occasion, and +put in again. This is said to have been contrived, on the humble +petition of the women, to prevent perpetrating an unnatural +crime, to which they were much addicted.</p> + +<p>On the 23d of January, Candish summoned all the +caçiques of this island, and an hundred more, who had paid +him tribute, and then revealed to them all, when assembled, that +he and his men were Englishmen, and the greatest enemies the +Spaniards had in the world. At the same time he generously +restored them, in money, the value of all the tribute they had +paid to him, in hogs, cocoa-nuts, potatoes, and the like. This +unexpected generosity astonished the whole assembly, who +applauded his bounty, and offered to join him with all the forces +of their respective districts, if he would go to war with the +Spaniards. They seemed much pleased with finding that Candish and +his people were English, and thankful for the kindness with which +they had been treated. On taking leave, they rowed round the ship +awhile in their canoes, as if in compliment to the English; and +Candish caused a gun to be fired at their departure.</p> + +<p>Setting sail on the 24th, Candish ran along the coast of +Luzon, steering N.W. between that island and <i>Masbate</i>. In +the islands thereabout, the Spaniards were observed to keep a +strict watch, making great fires, and discharging their pieces +all night, having been much alarmed by the arrival of the +English. The island of <i>Panama</i> is in many places plain and +level, affording many large, tall, and straight trees, fit for +masts, and has several mines of very fine gold, which are +possessed by the natives. To the south of this is the island of +the Negroes, which is very large, almost as big as England, and +is in lat. 9° N.[57] It appeared to consist mostly of low +land, and to be very fertile.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 57: Negro island reaches from lat. 9° +15' to 11° 45' N. and is consequently two and a half degrees +from N. to S. about 174 English miles, but does not any where +exceed thirty miles from E. to W.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At six in the morning of the 29th of January, they began to +pass through the straits between Panama and Negro islands, and, +after proceeding sixteen leagues, they found a fair opening in +these straits, trending S.W. by S. About this time, being +rejoined by their boat, which had been sent before them in the +morning, Candish sent a Spanish prisoner on shore, with a message +to his captain, who commanded a ship which lay at Panama the +night before, desiring him to provide an abundant supply of gold +against the return of the Desire, as he meant to pay him a visit +at Manilla, and as that was a long voyage, it merited good +entertainment. He said farther, that he would have come now, to +weigh some of his Spanish gold in English scales, if he had +possessed a larger boat for landing his men on the island.</p> + +<p>Proceeding on the voyage, they saw Batochina on the 8th of +February, an island near Gilolo, in the lat. of 1° N. The +14th of that month they fell in with eleven or twelve small flat +low islands, almost level with the sea, in lat. 3° 10' S. +near the Moluccas. March 1st, having passed the straits between +Java Major and Java Minor, they anchored under the S.W. part of +Java Major, where they saw some people fishing in a bay under the +island. The admiral sent a boat to them, in which was a negro who +could speak the <i>Moresco</i>[58] language, which is much used +in Java. But, being frightened at the approach of the boat, they +all got on shore and ran away into the woods. One of them, +however, came back to the shore, on being called to by the negro, +and directed where to find fresh water; besides which, he +undertook to carry a message to the king of that part of the +island from the admiral, certifying that he had come to purchase +victuals, or any commodities the country afforded. In consequence +of this message, nine or ten canoes belonging to the king came +off, on the 12th March, loaded with all sorts of provisions as +deep as they could swim; bringing oxen, hogs, hens, geese, eggs, +sugar, cocoa-nuts, plantains, oranges, lemons, wine, and +arrack.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 58: Probably the Malay is here meant, and +called Moresco or Moors, an ordinary term for +Mahometans.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At the same time two Portuguese came off to visit Candish, and +to enquire about their king, Don Antonio, then residing in +England. These persons gave him a full account of the manners and +customs of the people of this island. The king of this part was +held in prodigious awe by his subjects, over whom he exercised +absolute power, insomuch that no man was permitted to make a +bargain without his leave, on pain of death. He had an hundred +wives, and his son fifty; who may possibly be happy enough while +he lives; but when he dies, and his body is burnt, and the ashes +collected into an urn, the tragedy of his wives begins five days +afterwards. They are then all conducted to an appointed place, +where the favourite wife throws a ball from her hand, and where +it stops marks the place of their deaths. Being come there, and +turning their faces to the east, they all draw their daggers and +stab themselves to the heart; after which they smear themselves +with their own blood, and thus die.</p> + +<p>The men of this island are excellent soldiers, being hardy, +valiant, and desperate to the last degree, sticking at nothing +commanded by their king, however dangerous; and, should he even +command them to plunge a dagger into their own breast, or to leap +from a precipice, or into a den of wild beasts, they instantly +obey: For the displeasure of their sovereign is as certain death +as the point of a sword, or the fangs of a beast of prey. Their +complexion is tawny, like the other natives of India, and they go +entirely naked; but their women are of a fairer hue, and are more +modestly cloathed than the men.</p> + +<p>After this relation of the Portuguese, having satisfied the +Javans for the provisions they had supplied, and received a +promise of good entertainment to the English when they might +return to their island, Candish took leave of them, making a +present to their king of three large cannon. Next day, being the +16th of March, he made sail for the Cape of Good Hope, spending +all the rest of that month, all April, and a part of May, in +traversing the vast ocean between the island of Java and the +southern extremity of Africa, making many observations on the +appearances of the stars, the weather, winds, tides, currents, +soundings, and bearings and positions of lands.</p> + +<p>On the 11th of May, land was espied bearing N. and N. by W. +and towards noon more land was seen bearing W. which was believed +to be the Cape of Good Hope, being then about forty or fifty +leagues from that southern promontory of Africa.[59] The wind +being scanty, they stood off to the southwards till midnight; +and, the wind being then fair, stood their course directly west. +On the 12th and 13th they were becalmed, with a thick and hazy +atmosphere. The weather cleared upon the 14th, when they again +saw land, which proved to be Cape <i>Falso</i>, forty or fifty +leagues short, or to the eastwards of the Cape of Good Hope.[60] +This Cape Falso is easily known, having three hills directly over +it, the highest in the middle, and only a little distance from +each other; the ground being much lower by the sea-side. Besides +which, the Cape of Good Hope bears W. by S. from this cape. They +discovered the Cape of Good Hope on the 16th of May, observing +the head-land to be considerably high, having two hummocks at the +westerly point, a little off the main, and three others a little +farther into the sea, yet low-land still between these and the +sea. By the Portuguese the Cape of Good Hope is said to be 2000 +leagues from Java; but by their reckoning they made it only 1850 +leagues, which took them just nine weeks in the run.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 59: Either this is a gross error, or it +means that their reckoning still made that distance from the +Cape, as nothing nearly approaching to such a distance can +possibly be seen.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 60: Captain Falso is only ten leagues E. +from the Cape of Good Hope; but perhaps Cape Aguillas may be +meant in the text, which is about thirty-five leagues E.S.E. from +the Cape.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>By break of day on the 8th June, they were within seven or +eight leagues of St Helena, of which island they had merely a +glimpse that day, as, having little or no wind, they had to stand +off and on all night. Next day, having a tolerably good wind, +they stood in with the shore, sending the boat before, and came +to anchor in a good bay, under the N.W. side of the island, in +twelve fathoms, only two or three cables length from the shore. +This island lies in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, almost at +equal distances from the main land of Africa and that of Brazil, +in Lat. 15° 43' S. between five and six hundred leagues from +the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>Candish went here on shore, and entered the church, to which +there was a fair causeway; having a <i>frame between two +bowls</i>, and a cross of freestone adjoining. Within it was hung +with painted cloth, on which were represented the Blessed Virgin, +the story of the Crucifixion, and other holy legends, hung round +the altar. The valley in which this church stands is extremely +pleasant, and so full of fruit-trees and excellent plants, that +it seemed like a very fair and well-cultivated garden, having +long rows of lemon, orange, citron, pomegranate, date, and +fig-trees, delighting the eye with blossoms, green fruit, and +ripe, all at once. These trees seemed nicely trimmed, and there +were many delightful walks under the shelter of their boughs, +which were pleasant, cool, and shady. At some distance there +rises a fine clear spring, which diffuses itself in many fine +rivulets, all through this valley, watering all its parts, and +refreshing every plant and tree. In the whole of this great +garden there is hardly any unoccupied space; as, where nature may +have left any part empty, there art has supplied the deficiency, +so as to fill the whole space to advantage. This island also +affords great abundance of partridges and pheasants, both being +larger than ours in England. There are also turkeys, both black +and white, with red heads, about as large as those in England, +and their eggs much the same, only altogether white. There is +also plenty of <i>cabritos</i>, or wild goats, as big as asses, +and having manes like horses, and their beards reaching down to +the ground. These are so numerous, that their herds or flocks are +sometimes a whole mile in length. It contains also vast herds of +wild-swine, which keep chiefly in the mountains, as do likewise +the wild-goats. These swine are very fat, but so excessively wild +that they are never to be got at by a man, unless when asleep, or +rolling themselves in the mire.</p> + +<p>Having taken in all necessaries that this place produced, +Candish set sail for England on the 20th of June, standing N.W. +by W. It is observable, that the wind at St Helena is generally +off the shore. On Friday, the 23d of August, he steered E. and E. +by S. for the northernmost of the Azores; and on the 29th, after +midnight, he got sight of the islands of Flores and Corvo, in +lat. 39° 30' N. whence he shaped his course N.E. He met a +Flemish vessel on the 3d September, bound from Lisbon, from which +he had the joyful news of the total defeat of the Spanish Armada. +On the 9th September, after receiving a farewell from the wind in +a violent storm, which carried away most of his sails, Candish +arrived at the long-desired haven of Plymouth.</p> + +<p>There had not hitherto been any voyage of so much consequence, +or attended by such uninterrupted success as this: As plainly +appears from the length of time occupied by that of Magellan, +which extended to three years and a month; that of Sir Francis +Drake extending to upwards of two years and ten months; while +this voyage by Candish was less than two years and two months. We +need not wonder, therefore, that a young gentleman like Mr +Candish, who was entirely devoted to a desire of acquiring glory +and renown, should contrive some extraordinary manner of +displaying his good fortune. Some accounts accordingly inform us, +that he brought his ship into Plymouth harbour under a suit of +silken sails, which, if true, may be thus explained. We have +already mentioned, from his own narrative, that he encountered a +violent storm, just before his arrival, which tore all his sails +to pieces. In this distress, he would probably use those he had +taken in the South Sea, made of what is called silk-grass, having +a strong gloss and beautiful colour, which might easily deceive +the eyes of the vulgar, and pass upon them for sails made of +silk. This much is certain, however, that though he might be vain +and expensive in such matters, yet all came fairly out of his own +pocket; and those who had sailed with him, from the prospect of +raising their fortunes, had not the least reason to complain, as +he made a fair and full distribution of the prizes, by which he +gained universal credit and esteem.</p> + +<p>To shew his duty and diligence, as well as to discharge +respectfully the obligations he owed his patron, Lord Hunsdon, +the near relation of Queen Elizabeth, and then lord-chamberlain, +he wrote the following letter to him on the very day of his +arrival at Plymouth.</p> + +<p><i>To the Right Honourable the Lord Hunsdon, &c.</i></p> + +<p><i>Right Honourable</i>,</p> + +<p>As your favour heretofore hath been most greatly extended +towards me, so I humbly desire a continuance thereof; and though +there be no means in me to deserve the same, yet the uttermost of +my services shall not be wanting, whensoever it shall please your +honour to dispose thereof. I am humbly to desire your honour to +make known unto her majesty the desire I have had to do her +majesty service in the performance of this voyage; and, as it +hath pleased God to give her the victory over part of her +enemies, so I trust, ere long, to see her overthrow them all. For +the places of their wealth, whereby they have maintained and made +their wars, are now perfectly discovered; and, if it please her +majesty, with a small power she may take and spoil them all.</p> + +<p>It hath pleased the Almighty to suffer me to circumcompass all +the whole globe of the world, entering in at the Straits of +Magellan, and returning by the Cape of Buena Esperança. In +which voyage I have either discovered, or brought certain +intelligence of, all the rich places of the world that ever were +known or discovered by any Christian. I navigated along the +coasts of Chili, Peru, and Nueva Espanna, where I made great +spoils. I burnt and sunk nineteen sail of ships, great and small. +All the villages and towns that ever I landed at, I burnt and +spoiled; and, had I not been discovered upon the coast, I had +taken a great quantity of treasure. The matter of most profit +unto me was a great ship of the king's, which I took at +California, which ship came from the Philippines, being one of +the richest for merchandize that ever passed these seas, as the +royal register, accounts, and merchants did shew; for it amounted +in value to ***** in Mexico to be sold: which goods, for that my +ships were not able to contain the least part of them, I was +enforced to set on fire.</p> + +<p>From the Cape of California, being the uppermost part of all +New Spain, I navigated to the Philippine islands, hard upon the +coast of China, of which country I have brought such intelligence +as hath not been heard in these parts; the stateliness and riches +of which country I fear to make report of; lest I should not be +credited: for, if I had not known sufficiently the incomparable +wealth of that country, I should have been as incredulous thereof +as others will be that have not had the like experience.</p> + +<p>I sailed along the islands of the Moluccas, where among some +of the heathen people I was well intreated, and where our people +may have trade as freely as the Portuguese, if they will +themselves. From thence, I passed by the Cape of Buena +Esperança; and found out, by the way homeward, the island +of St Helena, where the Portuguese used to refresh themselves; +and, from that island, God hath suffered me to return into +England. All which services, together with myself, I humbly +prostrate at her majesty's feet, desiring the Almighty long to +continue her reign among us; for at this day she is the most +famous and most victorious prince that liveth in the world.</p> + +<p>Thus, humbly desiring pardon for my tediousness, I leave your +lordship to the tuition of the Almighty.</p> + +<p><i>Your honour's most humble to command,<br> + Thomas Candish</i>.</p> + +<p>Plymouth, this 9th<br> + of September, 1588.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>There are many circumstances in this voyage, besides the +wonderful facility with which it was accomplished, that deserve +to be considered. As, for instance, the adventuring to pass a +second time into the South Sea, after it was not only known that +the Spaniards were excessively alarmed by the passage of Sir +Francis Drake, but also that they had received succours from +Spain, and had actually fortified themselves strongly in the +South Sea. Also the nice search made by Candish, and the exact +description he has given us of the Straits of Magellan, are very +noble proofs of his skill and industry, and of his desire that +posterity might reap the fruits of his labours. The attack of the +Accapulco ship, likewise, considering the small force he had +along with him, was a noble instance of true English bravery, +which was justly rewarded by the queen with the honour of +knighthood.</p> + +<p>His account of the Philippines, and his description of several +islands in the East Indies, are very clear and curious, and must +at that time have been very useful; but particularly his map and +description of China, which gave great lights in those days. We +may add to all this, the great care he took in the instruction of +his seamen, many of whom afterwards distinguished themselves by +navigating vessels in the same stupendous course, and thereby +filling all the known world with the fame and reputation of +English seamen. It is not therefore surprising that we find the +best judges, both of our own and other nations, bestowing very +high praise on this worthy gentleman, who, in the whole conduct +of his voyage, shewed the courage and discretion of a great +commander, with all the skill and diligence of an able seaman; of +both which eminent characters he has left the strongest +testimonies in his accurate account of this circumnavigation.</p> + +<p>The wealth brought home by Sir Thomas Candish from this +successful voyage must have been considerable; an old writer says +it was sufficient to have purchased <i>a fair earldom</i>, a +general and vague expression, having no determinate meaning. +Whatever may have been the amount of the sum, which he acquired +with so much hazard and so great honour, he certainly did not +make such prudent use of his good fortune as might have been +expected; for in the space of three years the best part of it was +spent, and he determined to lay out the remainder upon a second +expedition. We need the less wonder at this, if we consider what +the writers of those days tell us, of his great generosity, and +the prodigious expence he was at in procuring and maintaining +such persons as he thought might be useful to him in his future +naval expeditions, on which subject his mind was continually +bent. Such things require the revenues of a prince; and as he +looked upon this voyage round the world as an introduction only +to his future undertakings, we may easily conceive that, what the +world considered extravagance, might appear to him mere necessary +disbursements, which, instead of lessening, he proposed should +have laid the foundations of a more extensive fortune. All +circumstances duly considered, this was neither a rash nor +improbable supposition; since there were many examples in the +glorious reign of Queen Elizabeth, of very large fortunes +acquired by the same method in which he proposed to have +increased his estate. Besides, it clearly appears, by his will, +that he not only did not die in debt, but left very considerable +effects behind him, notwithstanding his heavy expences, and the +many misfortunes of his second expedition, of which it is proper +to subjoin a brief account.--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<p>In the Collection of Hakluyt, vol. IV. p. 341-355, is a long +enumeration of nautical remarks, of the latitudes, soundings, +distances of places, bearings of lands, variations of the +compass, time spent in sailing between the several places +enumerated, time of remaining at any of these, observations of +winds, &c. &c. &c. written by Mr Thomas Fuller of +Ipswich, who was master of the Desire in this voyage round the +world; but which are too tedious and uninteresting for +insertion.--E.</p> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Second Voyage of Sir Thomas Candish, intended for the South +Sea, in 1591</i>.[61]</p> + +<p>Though not a circumnavigation, owing to various misfortunes, +it appears proper to insert this narrative, giving an account of +the unfortunate end of the renowned Candish, by way of appendix +to his circumnavigation. From the happy success of his former +voyage, and the superior strength with which he undertook the +second, in which, after ranging the Spanish coast of the South +Sea, he proposed to have visited the Philippine islands and +China, he certainly had every reason to have expected, that the +profits of this new enterprise would have fully compensated for +its expences, and have enabled him to spend the remainder of his +days in honourable ease and affluence.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 61: Hakluyt, IV. 361.--This narrative, as +we learn from Hakluyt, was written by Mr John Lane, or Jane, a +person of good observation, who was employed in this and many +other voyages.--E.]</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>The ships fitted out on this occasion, entirely at his own +expence, were the galleon named the Leicester, in which Sir +Thomas Candish embarked himself as admiral, or general of the +expedition; the Roebuck vice-admiral, commanded by Mr Cocke; the +Desire rear-admiral, of which Mr John Davis was captain;[62] the +Dainty, a bark belonging to Mr Adrian Gilbert, of which Mr +Randolph Cotton had the command; and a pinnace named the +Black.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 62: The author of this narrative informs us +that he sailed on this voyage along with Mr +Davis.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION 1. <i>Incidents in the Voyage, till the Separation of +the Ships</i>.</p> + +<p>With this squadron we sailed from Plymouth on the 26th of +August, 1591. The 29th November, we fell in with the bay of St +Salvador on the coast of Brazil, twelve leagues to the N. of Cabo +Frio, where we were becalmed till the 2d December, when we +captured a small bark, bound for the Rio Plata, laden with sugar, +haberdashery wares, and negroes. The master of this bark brought +us to an isle, called Placencia or <i>Ilha Grande</i>, thirty +Portuguese leagues W. from Cabo Frio, where we arrived on the 5th +December, and rifled six or seven houses inhabited by Portuguese. +The 11th we departed from this place, and arrived on the 14th at +the island of St Sebastian; whence Mr Cocke and Mr Davis +immediately departed, with the Desire and the Black pinnace, on +purpose to attack the town of Santos.</p> + +<p>We anchored at the bar of Santos in the evening of the 15th, +and went immediately in our boats to the town. Next morning about +nine o'clock, we reached Santos, and being discovered, we +immediately landed, being only twenty-four of us, our long-boat +being still far astern. By this promptitude, we took all the +people of the town prisoners in the church, being at mass, and +detained them there all day. The great object of Sir Thomas +Candish in assaulting this town was to supply our wants, +expecting to have got every thing of which we stood in need, when +once in possession: But such was the negligence of Mr Cocke, who +commanded on this occasion, that the Indians were allowed to +carry every thing out of the town in open view, and no one +hindered them; and next day, our prisoners were all set free, +only four poor old men being kept as pledges to supply our wants. +By this mismanagement, the town of Santos, which could easily +have supplied a fleet the double of ours with all kinds of +necessaries, was in three days left to us entirely naked, without +people, and without provisions. Sir Thomas Candish came up eight +or ten days afterwards, and remained till the 22d January, 1592, +endeavouring by treaty to procure what we were once possessed of, +but to little purpose; and we were then forced to depart, through +want of provisions, glad to procure a few baskets of cassavi +meal, going away worse provided than we had come there. We +accordingly left Santos on the 22d January, and burnt the town of +St Vincent to the ground.</p> + +<p>We set sail on the 24th, shaping our course for the Straits of +Magellan. On the 7th February we had a violent storm, and on the +8th, our fleet was separated by the fury of the tempest. +Consulting with the master of our ship, our captain concluded to +go for Port Desire, in the latitude of 48° S. hoping that Sir +Thomas would go there likewise, as he had found great relief +there in his former voyage. Our captain had not been able to get +directions, what course to take in such a contingency as had now +occurred, though he had earnestly proposed such a measure. In our +way, we fortunately fell in with the Roebuck, which had been in +extreme danger, and had lost her boat. We arrived together at +Port Desire on the 6th March. The Black pinnace came in there +also on the 16th; but the Dainty came not, having gone back for +England, leaving their captain, Mr Randolph Cotton, aboard the +Roebuck, with nothing but the clothes he wore. He now came aboard +our ship, being in great habits of friendship with Captain +Davis.</p> + +<p>On the 18th Sir Thomas brought the galleon into the roads, and +came himself into the harbour in a boat he had got built at sea, +for his long-boat and light-horseman were both lost during the +storm, together with a pinnace he had set up at Santos. Being on +board our ship, the Desire, Sir Thomas informed our captain of +all his extremities, and complained severely of his company, and +particularly of several gentlemen in his ship, proposing to go no +more on board his own ship, but to proceed for the rest of the +voyage in the Desire. We were all grieved to hear such hard +speeches of our good friends; but having spoken with the +gentlemen in the Leicester, we found them faithful, honest, and +resolute in their proceedings, although it pleased our general to +conceive of them otherwise.</p> + +<p>The 20th March we departed from Port Desire, Sir Thomas being +in the Desire with us. The 8th of April we fell in with the +Straits of Magellan, having sustained many furious storms between +Port Desire and the straits. The 14th we passed the first +straits, and got through the second, ten leagues beyond the +first, on the 16th. We doubled Cape Froward on the 18th, which +cape is in 53° 30' S. The 21st we were forced by a furious +storm to take shelter in a small cove with our ships, four +leagues beyond the cape, and on the southern shore of the +straits, where we remained till the 15th of May; in which time we +endured much distress, by excessive storms, with perpetual snow, +and many of our men died of cold and famine, not having +wherewithal to cover their bodies nor to fill their bellies, but +living on muscles, sea-weeds, and water, with an occasional +supply of meal from the ships stores.[63] All the sick men in the +galleon were most uncharitably put on shore into the woods, +exposed to the snow, the air, and the cold, which men in health +could hardly have endured, where they ended their days in the +utmost misery, Sir Thomas remaining all this time in the +Desire.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 63: It would appear that this expedition +had been very improvidently undertaken, with a very inadequate +supply of provisions, and, as will afterwards appear, of naval +stores, trusting perhaps to obtain supplies from the enemy, as +had been attempted in vain at Santos. Either delayed by these +views, or from ignorance, the passage through the straits was +attempted at a very improper season, three months after the +antarctic mid-summer and during the autumnal equinoctial gales. +November, December, and January are the summer months, and best +fitted for these high southern latitudes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Seeing these great extremities of cold and snow, and doubting +a disastrous end to the enterprize, Sir Thomas asked our +captain's opinion, being a person of great experience in the +utmost parts of the north, to which he had made three voyages of +discovery in the employ of the London merchants. Captain Davis +said, that he did not expect the snow to be of long continuance, +for which he gave sufficient reasons from his former experience, +and hoped therefore that this might not greatly prejudice or +hinder the completion of the enterprize. Yet Sir Thomas called +all the company together, telling them that he proposed to depart +from the straits upon some other voyage, either proceeding for +the Cape of Good Hope, or back again to Brazil. The company +answered, that they desired rather to wait God's favour for a +wind, if he so pleased, and to submit to any hardships, rather +than abandon the intended voyage, considering that they had been +here only for a short time, and were now only forty leagues from +the South Sea; yet, though grieved to return, they were ready to +perform whatever he pleased to command. So he concluded to leave +the straits, and make sail for the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>When Sir Thomas Candish returned on board the Desire, from +talking with the company, Captain Davis requested he would +consider the extremity of our estate and condition, the +slenderness of his provision, and the weakness of his men, being +in no case for undertaking that new enterprise; as, if the other +ships were as ill appointed as the Desire, it would be impossible +to perform his new design, having no more sails then were then +bent, no victuals, no ground tackle, no cordage save what was +already in use; and, of seventy-five persons in the Desire, the +master only had knowledge enough for managing the ship, and there +were only fourteen sailors besides, all the rest being gentlemen, +serving-men, or tradesmen. Captain Davis laid these persuasions +before both the general and Mr Cocke; and in fine, in consequence +of a petition, delivered in writing by all the chief persons of +the whole company, the general determined to depart from the +Straits of Magellan, and to return again for Santos in +Brazil.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, we set sail on the 15th of May, the general being +now on board the galleon, his own ship. The 18th we were free of +the straits; but on passing Cape Froward, we had the misfortune +to have our boat sunk at our stern in the night, by which she was +split and sore injured, and lost all her oars. The 20th of May, +being athwart Port Desire, the general altered his course during +the night, as we suppose, by which we lost him. In the evening he +stood close by the wind to leewards, having the wind at N.N.E. +and we stood the same course, the wind not altering during the +night, and next day we could not see him. We were then persuaded +that the general was gone for Port Desire in quest of relief or +that he had sustained some mischance at sea, and was gone there +to seek a remedy. Our captain then called all hands together, the +general's men among the rest, asking their opinion what was to be +done, when every one said he thought the general was gone to Port +Desire.</p> + +<p>Our master, who was the general's man, and careful for his +master's service, and also a person of good judgment in sea +affairs, represented to the company how dangerous it was for us +to go to Port Desire, especially if we should there miss the +general; as we had now no boat wherewith to land, neither any +anchors or cables which he could trust to in such rapid streams. +Yet as we all concluded that it was most probable the general had +gone there, we shaped our course for Port Desire, and on our way +met the Black pinnace by chance, which had also parted company +from the general, being in a miserable plight. So we both +proceeded for Port Desire, where we arrived on the 26th of +May.</p> + +<p>SECTION 2. <i>Disastrous result of the Voyage to Sir Thomas +Candish</i>.[64]</p> + +<p>Various accounts of the disappointments and misfortunes of Sir +Thomas Candish, in this disastrous voyage, are still preserved, +but the most copious is contained in his own narrative, addressed +to Sir Tristram Gorges, whom he constituted sole executor of his +will. In this, Sir Thomas attributes his miscarriage to the +cowardice and defection of one of his officers, in the following +terms:--"The running away of the villain Davis was the death of +me, and the decay of the whole action, and his treachery in +deserting me the ruin of all."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 64: This portion of the voyage is taken +from the supplement in the Collection of Harris, to the +circumnavigation of Sir Thomas Candish.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this letter he complained also of mutinies, and that, by +adverse winds at S W. and W.S.W. he had been driven 400 leagues +from the shore, and from the latitude of 50° to that of +40° both S. He says also, that he was surprised by winter in +the straits, and sore vexed by storms, having such frosts and +snows in May as he had never before witnessed,[65] so that forty +of his men died, and seventy more of them sickened, in the course +of seven or eight days. Davis, as he says, deserted him in the +Desire, in lat. 47° S. The Roebuck continued along with him +to lat. 36° S. In consequence of transgressing his +directions, Captain Barker was slain on land with twenty-five +men, and the boat lost; and soon afterwards other twenty-five men +met with a similar fate. Ten others were forsaken at Spiritu +Santo, by the cowardice of the master of the Roebuck, who stole +away, having six months provisions on board for 120 men, and only +forty-seven men in his ship. Another mutiny happened at St +Sebastians by the treachery of an Irishman, when Mr Knivet and +other six persons were left on shore.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 65: Sir Thomas Candish seems not to have +been aware, that the month of May, in these high antarctic or +southern latitudes, was precisely analogous with November in the +high latitudes of the north, and therefore utterly unfit for +navigation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Intending again to have attempted passing through the straits, +he was tossed up and down in the tempestuous seas of the Southern +Atlantic, and came even at one time within two leagues of St +Helena, but was unable to reach that island. In his last letter, +he declares that, rather than return to England after so many +disasters, he would willingly have gone ashore in an island +placed in lat. 8° in the charts. In this letter, he states +himself to be then scarcely able to hold a pen; and we learn that +he soon afterwards died of grief. The Leicester, in which Candish +sailed, came home, as did the Desire. The Black pinnace was lost; +but the fates of the Roebuck and the Dainty are no where +mentioned.</p> + +<p>The miscarriage of this voyage was certainly prejudicial to +the rising trade and spirit of naval adventure in England. The +ruin of Sir Thomas Candish threw a damp on such undertakings +among the English gentlemen; and, on the return of these ships, +several able and experienced seamen were turned adrift, to gain +their livings as they best might. These thorough-bred seamen went +to other countries; and, as knowledge is a portable commodity, +they made the best market they could of their nautical experience +in Holland and elsewhere. Among these was one Mr Mellish, who had +been a favourite of Sir Thomas Candish, and the companion of all +his voyages. This person offered his services to the East India +Company of Holland, then in its infancy; and, his proposals being +accepted, he was employed as pilot in the circumnavigation of +Oliver van Noort, which falls next in order to be related.</p> + +<p>SECTION 3. <i>Continuation of the Voyage of the Desire, +Captain Davis, after parting from Sir Thomas Candish</i>.</p> + +<p>Not finding our general at Port Desire, as we had expected, +and being very slenderly provided, without sails, boat, oars, +nails, cordage, and other necessary stores, and very short of +victuals, we were reduced to a very unpleasant situation, not +knowing how to proceed. Leaving ourselves, however, to the +providence of the Almighty, we entered the harbour, and, by the +good favour of God, we found a quiet and safe road, which we knew +not of before. Having moored our ship, by the help of the boat +belonging to the Black pinnace, we landed on the southern shore +of the bay, where we found a standing pool, which might contain +some ten tons of fresh water, by which we were greatly relieved +and comforted. From this pool we took more than forty tons of +water, yet left it as full as at first. At our former visit to +this harbour, we were at this very place and found no water, +wherefore we persuaded ourselves that the Almighty had sent this +pool for our relief. We found here such remarkably low ebbs as we +had never before seen, by means of which we procured muscles in +great plenty. Providence also sent such great abundance of smelts +about our ship, that all the people were able to take as many as +they could eat, with hooks made of crooked pins. By these means +we husbanded the ship's provisions, and did not spend any of them +during our abode at this place.</p> + +<p>Considering what was best to be done in our present +circumstances, that we might find our general, and as it was +obvious we could not refit our ship for sea in less than a month, +our captain and master concluded to take the pinnace and go in +search of the general, leaving the ship and a considerable part +of the men till the return of the general, who had vowed he would +return again to the straits. Hearing of this determination, two +pestilent fellows, named Charles Parker and Edward Smith, +secretly represented to the men, that the captain and master +meant to leave them to be devoured by cannibals, and had no +intention to come back; on which the whole company secretly +agreed to murder the captain, master, and all those who were +thought their friends, among whom I was included. This conspiracy +was fortunately known to our boatswain, who revealed it to the +master, and he to the captain. To appease this mutiny the captain +found it necessary to desist from his intentions, and it was +concluded not to depart, but to wait at Port Desire for the +return of the general. After this the whole company, with one +consent, made a written testimonial of the circumstances by which +we had lost company of the general, and the indispensable +necessity of returning home.</p> + +<p>In this testimony or protest, dated Port Desire, 2d June, +1592, it is represented, that the shrouds of the ship are all +rotten, the ropes all so decayed that they could not be trusted; +the sails reduced to one shift all worn, of which the topsails +were utterly unable to abide any stress of weather; the ship +unprovided with pitch, tar, or nails for repairs of any kind, and +no means of supplying these wants; the provisions reduced to five +hogsheads of salt pork, and such quantity of meal as admitted +only an allowance of three ounces for a man each day, and no +drink remaining except water. This instrument is signed by John +Davis and Randolph Cotton, the captains of the Desire and Black +pinnace, and thirty-eight more, but the name John Jane, or Lane, +does not appear among them.</p> + +<p>After this, they proceeded to refit the ship with all +expedition, for which purpose they built a smith's forge, making +charcoal for its supply, and made nails, bolts, and spikes. +Others of the crew were employed in making ropes from a piece of +cable; and others again in all the necessary repairs of the ship, +sails, and rigging; while those not fit for such offices, +gathered muscles and caught smelts for the whole company. Three +leagues from Port Desire there is an island, having four small +isles about it, on which there are great abundance of seals, and +where likewise penguins resort in vast numbers at the breeding +season. To this island it was resolved to dispatch the Black +pinnace occasionally, to fetch seals for us to eat, when smelts +and muscles failed, for we could get no muscles at neap-tides, +and only when the ebb was very low.</p> + +<p>In this miserable and forlorn condition we remained till the +6th of August, 1592, still keeping watch on the hills to look out +for our general, suffering extreme anguish and vexation. Our hope +of the general's return becoming very cold, our captain and +master were persuaded that he might have gone directly for the +straits; wherefore it was concluded to go there and wait his +coming, as there we could not possibly miss seeing him if he +came. This being agreed to by the whole company, we set sail from +Port Desire on the 6th August, and went to Penguin island, where +we salted twenty hogsheads of seals, which was as much as our +salt could do. We departed from Penguin island towards night of +the 7th August, intending for the straits. The 14th we were +driven among certain islands, never before discovered, fifty +leagues or better from the shore, east-northerly from the +straits.[66] Fortunately the wind shifted to the east, or we must +have inevitably perished among these islands, and we were enabled +to shape our course for the straits.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 66: These are doubtless the Falkland +Islands, or Malouines, but to which no name seems to have been +affixed on this occasion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We fell in with the cape [Virgin] on the 18th of August, in a +very thick fog, and that same night came to anchor ten leagues +within the straits' mouth. The 19th we passed the first and +second narrows, doubled Cape Froward on the 21st, and anchored on +the 22d in a cove, or small bay, which we named <i>Savage +Cove</i>, because we here found savages. Notwithstanding the +excessive coldness of this place, yet do these people go entirely +naked, living in the woods like satyrs, painted and disguised in +a strange manner, and fled from us like so many wild deer. They +were very strong and agile, and threw stones at us, of three or +four pounds weight, from an incredible distance. We departed from +this cove on the 24th in the morning, and came that same day into +the N.W. reach of the straits, which is its last or most western +reach. On the 25th we anchored in a good cove, within fourteen +leagues of the South Sea, where we proposed to await the return +of our general, as the strait at this place is only three miles +broad, and he could not possibly pass unseen.</p> + +<p>After we had remained here a fortnight, in the depth of +winter, our victuals fast consuming, and our salted seals +stinking most vilely, our men fell sick and died pitifully, +through famine and cold, as most of them had not clothes +sufficient to defend them from the extreme rigour of winter. In +this heavy distress, our captain and master thought it best to +depart from the straits into the South Sea, and to proceed for +the island of Santa Maria in lat. 37° S. on the coast of +Chili, which is situated in a temperate climate, where we might +find relief, and could wait for our general, who must necessarily +pass by that island. We accordingly set sail on the 13th +September, and came in sight of the South Sea. The 14th we were +driven back into the straits, and got into a cove three leagues +from the South Sea. We again stood out, and being eight or ten +leagues free of the land, the wind rose furiously at W.N.W. and +we were again forced to return into the straits, not daring to +trust to our sails in any stress of weather. We again got into +the cove, three leagues from the eastern mouth of the straits, +where we had such violent weather that one of our two remaining +cables broke, and we were almost in despair of saving our lives. +Yet it pleased God to allay the fury of the storm, and we +unreeved our sheets, tacks, halyards, and other ropes, and made +fast our ship to the trees on shore, close by the rocks. We +laboured hard to recover our anchor again, which we could not +possibly effect, being, as we supposed, entirely covered over in +the ooze.</p> + +<p>We were now reduced to one anchor, which had only one whole +fluke; and had only one old cable, already spliced in two places, +and a piece of another old cable. In this extremity of trouble it +pleased God that the wind came fair on the 1st October, on which +we loosed our land fastnings with all expedition, weighed our +anchor, and towed off into the channel; for we had repaired our +boat when in Port Desire, and got five oars from the Black +pinnace. On weighing our anchor we found the cable sore broken, +holding only by one strand, which was a most merciful +preservation. We now reeved our ropes and rigged our ship the +best we could, every man working as if to save our lives in the +utmost extremity. Our company was now much divided in opinion as +to how we should proceed for the best; some desiring to return to +Port Desire, to be there set on shore, and endeavour to travel by +land to some of the Spanish settlements, while others adhered to +the captain and master: But at length, by the persuasion of the +master, who promised that they would find wheat, pork, and roots +in abundance at the island of St Mary, besides the chance of +intercepting some ships on the coasts of Chili and Peru, while +nothing but a cruel death by famine could be looked for in +attempting to return by the Atlantic, they were prevailed upon to +proceed.</p> + +<p>So, on the 2d of October, 1592, we again made sail into the +South Sea, and got free from the land. This night the wind again +began to blow very strong at west, and increased with such +violence that we were in great doubt what measures to pursue. We +durst not put into the straits for lack of ground tackle, neither +durst we carry sail, the tempest being very furious, and our +sails very bad. In this extremity the pinnace bore up to us, +informing she had received many heavy seas, and that her ropes +were continually failing, so that they knew not what to do; but, +unable to afford her any relief; we stood on our course in view +of a lee shore, continually dreading a ruinous end of us all. The +4th October the storm increased to an extreme violence; when the +pinnace, being to windward, suddenly <i>struck a hull</i>, when +we thought she had sustained some violent shock of a sea, or had +sprung a leak, or that her sails had failed, because she did not +follow us. But we durst not <i>hull</i> in this unmerciful storm, +sometimes <i>trying</i> under our main-course, sometimes with a +<i>haddock</i> of our sail; for our ship was very <i>leeward</i>, +and laboured hard in the sea. This night we lost sight of the +pinnace, and never saw her again.</p> + +<p>The 5th October, our foresail split, on which our master +brought the mizen-sail to the foremast to make the ship work, and +we mended our foresail with our spritsail. The storm still +continued to rage with the most extreme fury, with hail, snow, +rain, and wind, such and so mighty that it could not possibly in +nature be worse; the seas running so lofty, and with a continual +breach, that we many times were in doubt whether our ship did +sink or swim. The 10th, the weather dark, the storm as furious as +ever, most of the men having given over labour from fatigue and +in despair, and being near the lee-shore by the reckoning both of +the captain and master, we gave ourselves up for lost, past all +remedy. While in this extremity of distress, the sun suddenly +shone out clear, by which the captain and master were enabled to +ascertain the latitude, and thereby knew what course to steer, so +as to recover the straits. Next day, the 11th October, we saw +Cape Deseado, being the southern point of the entrance into the +straits, for the northern point is a dangerous assemblage of +rocks, shoals, and islands. The cape was now two leagues to +leeward, and the master was even in doubt whether we might be +able to steer clear of it; but there was no remedy, as we must +either succeed or be irretrievably lost.</p> + +<p>Our master, being a man of spirit, made quick dispatch, and +steered for the straits. Our sails had not been half an hour +abroad for this purpose when the foot-rope of the fore-sail +broke, so nothing held save the oilet-holes. The sea continually +broke over our poop, and dashed with such violence against our +sails, that we every moment looked to have them torn to pieces, +or that the ship would overset. To our utter discomfort also, we +perceived that she fell still more and more to leeward, so that +we could not clear the cape. We were now within half a mile of +the cape, and so near shore that the counter surge of the sea so +rebounded against the side of our ship, that the horrors of our +situation were undescribably awful. While in this utmost +extremity, the wind and the sea raging beyond measure, and +momentarily expecting to be driven upon the rocks, our master +veered away some of the main-sheet: Whether owing to this, or by +some counter current, or by the wonderful interposition of God, +our ship quickened her way and shot past the rock, where we all +thought she must have perished. Between this and the cape there +was a small bay, so that we were now somewhat farther from the +shore; but on coming to the cape, we again looked for nothing but +instant death; yet God, the father of mercy, delivered us, and we +doubled the cape little more than the length of our ship. When +past the cape, we took in all our sails, and, being between the +high lands, the wind <i>blowing trade</i>, or steadily in the +direction of the straits, we spooned before the sea under bare +poles, three men being unable to manage the helm, and in six +hours we were driven twenty-five leagues within the straits.</p> + +<p>In this time we freed our ship from water, and when we had +rested a while, our men became unable to move, their sinews being +stiff, and their flesh as if dead. Many of them were so covered +and eaten with lice, that there lay clusters of them in their +flesh as large as peas, yea, some as big as beans. In this state +of misery we were constrained to put into a cove to refresh our +men, where we moored to the trees as we had done before, our only +anchor being to seaward. We here continued till the 20th of +October; and being unable to continue longer, through the +extremity of famine, we again put off into the channel on the +22d, the weather being then reasonably calm. Before night the +wind blew hard at W.N.W. The storm waxed so violent that our men +could scarcely stand to their labour; and the straits being full +of turnings and windings, we had to trust entirely to the +discretion of the captain and master to guide the ship during the +darkness of the night, when we could see no shore, and the +straits were in some places scarcely three miles broad. When we +first passed these straits, our captain made so excellent a +draught of them, as I am confident cannot in any sort be made +more correct. Which draught he and the master so carefully +considered, that they had every turning, creek, and head-land so +perfectly in their memory, as enabled them, even in the deepest +darkness of the night, undoubtingly to convey the ship through +that crooked channel.</p> + +<p>The 25th October we came to an island in the straits, named +Penguine Isle, where the boat was sent ashore to seek relief, as +it abounded with birds, and the weather was calm; so we came to +anchor near the island, in seven fathoms. While the boat was +ashore, where we got abundance of penguins, there rose a sudden +storm, by which our ship was driven over a breach, and our boat +sunk at the shore. Captain Cotton and the lieutenant, who were +both on shore, leapt into the boat, and freed it of water, +throwing away the birds, and with great difficulty got back to +the ship. All this time the ship was driving upon the lee-shore; +and when we got on board, we helped to weigh the anchor and make +sail. Thus, in a severe storm, we got clear of the straits on the +27th October; and on the 30th we got to that Penguin Island which +is three leagues from Port Desire, where we purposed to seek +relief. Immediately on coming to this isle, our boat was sent +ashore, and returned laden with birds and eggs, the men reporting +that the penguins were so thick on the isle, that even ships +might be laden with them, as they could not step without treading +on these birds; at which news we greatly rejoiced.</p> + +<p>Then the captain appointed Charles Parker and Edmund Smith, +with twenty others, to go on shore, and remain on the island, on +purpose to kill and dry these penguins: promising to send others +when the ship was safe in harbour, not only for expedition, but +to save the small store of victuals that remained in the ship. +But Parker and Smith, with the rest of their faction, remembering +that this was the place where they intended formerly to have +slain the captain and master, thought it was meant here to leave +them on shore out of revenge, and refused to land. After some +altercation, these men were allowed to proceed in the ship, and +ten others were left in the island. The last day of October we +entered the harbour of Port Desire. The master, having at our +being there before taken notice of every creek in the river, ran +our ship aground in a very convenient place on the sandy ooze, +laying our anchor out to seawards, and mooring her with the +running ropes to stakes on shore, in which situation the ship +remained till our departure.</p> + +<p>The 3d November our boat was sent off for Penguin Island, with +wood and water, and as many men as she could carry; but, being +deep laden, she durst not proceed, and returned again the same +night. Then Parker, Smith, Townsend, Purpet, and five others, +desired that they might go by land, and that the boat might fetch +them from the shore opposite the isle, being scarcely a mile +across. The captain bid them do as they thought best, only +advised them to carry weapons, as they might meet with savages; +so they accordingly carried calivers, swords, and targets, +departing by land on the 6th November, while the boat went by +sea. But these nine men were never more heard of. On the 11th, +when most of our men were at the island, only the captain, +master, and five more remaining in the ship, there came a great +multitude of savages to the shore beside the ship, throwing dust +into the air, leaping and running about like so many beasts, +having vizards on their faces like dogs, or else their faces +actually resembled dogs. We greatly feared they would have set +the ship on fire, for they would suddenly make fire, at which we +were greatly astonished. They came to windward of the ship, and +set the bushes on fire, so that we were enveloped in a very +stinking smoke; but coming within shot of us, we fired at them, +and hitting one on the thigh, they all fled instantly away, and +we never heard or saw them more. Hence we judged that these +savages had slain our nine men, who were the ringleaders of those +who would formerly have murdered our captain and master, with the +rest of their friends; so that God evidently drew just judgment +upon them, and we supplicated his divine Majesty to be merciful +to us.</p> + +<p>While we lay in this harbour, our captain and master went one +day in the boat to see how far the river could be penetrated, +that if need enforced us, it might be known how far we might +proceed by water. They found that this river was only navigable +by the boat for twenty miles. On their return, the boat was sent +to Penguin Island, by which we learnt that the penguins dried to +our entire satisfaction, and were in infinite numbers. This +penguin is shaped like a bird, having stumps only in place of +wings, by which it swims under water as swiftly as any fish. They +live upon smelts, which are found in vast abundance on this +coast. In eating, these penguins seem neither fish nor flesh. +They lay large eggs; and the bird is about as large as two ducks. +All the time we remained at Port Desire, we fared well on +penguins and their eggs, young seals, young gulls, and other +birds of which I know not the names, all of which we had in vast +abundance. In this place also we found plenty of an herb called +scurvy-grass, which we eat fried in seal-oil along with eggs, +which so purified the blood, that it entirely removed all kind of +swellings, of which many had died, and restored us all to as +perfect health as when we first left England.</p> + +<p>We remained in this harbour till the 22d of December, 1592, in +which time we had dried 20,000 penguins. In this time also the +captain, with the master and I, made some salt, by filling some +holes in the rocks with sea-water, which in six days was changed +to salt by evaporation, it being now Midsummer in this southern +hemisphere. Thus did God feed us in the desert, even as with +manna from heaven. The 22d December we departed from Port Desire +for Penguin island, where, with great difficulty, we got 14,000 +of the dried birds on board, during which we had nearly lost our +captain; and had not our master been very expert in the set of +the tides, which ran in many cross directions, we had lost our +ship.</p> + +<p>We now shaped our course for Brazil, under a regulated +allowance of provisions, so that our victuals might last six +months, in which time we hoped we might get back to England, +though our sails were very bad. This allowance was, two ounces +and a half of meal for each man, two days only in the week, or +five ounces for a week; three days a week, three spoonfulls of +oil were allowed to each man; two days a week, a pint of peas +among four men; and every day five dried penguins among four men, +with six quarts of water each day to four men. With this +allowance, praised be God, we lived, though weak and feeble.</p> + +<p>The 30th January, 1593, we arrived at the isle of Placencia, +or Ilha Grande, in Brazil, the first place at which we touched +when outwards bound. The ship laying off at sea, the captain went +aland in the boat with twenty-four men, being the whole night +before he could reach the shore. He landed next day at sun-rise, +hoping to catch the Portuguese in their houses, and by that means +to procure a supply of casava meal; but on coming to the houses, +we found them all burnt to the ground, so that we thought no one +had remained on the island. The captain then went to the gardens, +whence he brought a quantity of fruits and roots for the company, +and returned on board. He then brought the ship into a fine +creek, where she was moored to the trees on each side, at a place +where we had plenty of fresh water. Our case being very +desperate, we presently set to work to trim and repair our +water-casks, the coopers making new hoops; while others laboured +to repair the sails, keeping always a guard on shore, and every +man having always his weapons ready at hand. The 3d February, +thirty men well armed went to the gardens, three miles from where +the ship lay, to dig cassavi-roots, to serve our company instead +of bread. This was again repeated on the 5th. They laboured in +quietness all the morning; and about ten o'clock, the heat being +extreme, they came to a rock near the side of the wood, where +they boiled cassavi-roots for dinner. After dinner, some went to +sleep, and others to bathe in the sea, no one keeping watch, not +a match lighted, nor even a piece charged. While in this +unprovided state, and out of sight from the ship, there came +suddenly upon them a multitude of Portuguese and Indians, who +slew them all to the number of thirteen, two only escaping, one +of these very sore hurt, and the other not touched, from whom we +learnt the circumstances of this sad massacre.</p> + +<p>We manned the boat with all speed, and went ashore, if happily +we might succour our men; but we found them all slain, and laid +naked in a row, with their faces upwards, and a cross set up +beside them. We saw also two large pinnaces coming from Rio de +Janeiro, full of men, who, as we supposed, were intended to take +us. We were now much reduced, as of seventy-six persons we had on +board when we left England, there were now only twenty-seven of +us remaining, thirty-two having died formerly, and thirteen being +slain in this place. Between those formerly slain by the savages +at Port Desire, and those now in the island of Placencia by the +Portuguese, all those who had conspired to murder our captain and +master were now cut off, the gunner only excepted. Our casks were +so greatly decayed, that we could not take in a sufficient supply +of water, and what we had was exceedingly bad. Having lost +several muskets on shore, which had belonged to our slain men, +with good store of powder and shot, we expected to be beaten from +our decks by means of our own weapons, by the Portuguese on the +island, joined by those coming from Janeiro: and as we were +moored to the trees, for want of cables and anchors, we were in +dread of having our mooring ropes cut. In this miserable state we +knew not what measures to pursue. To depart with only eight tons +of bad water, and in bad casks, were to run the risk of starving +at sea, and to remain seemed inevitable ruin. These were severe +alternatives; but in our perplexity we preferred trusting to the +hand of God than to the mercy of our enemies, and concluded to +depart. Wherefore, on the 6th February, we unmoored and removed +our ship into the channel, putting all our ordnance and small +arms in readiness in case of an assault, and having a small gale +of wind, we put to sea in deep distress.</p> + +<p>Thus bemoaning our sad estate, and recounting our past +misfortunes, we came to Cape Frio; being much crossed for three +weeks by contrary winds, and our water running short, we were +reduced to the utmost distress and perplexity. Some of the people +were desirous of going into Bahia, and submitting to the +Portuguese, rather than die of thirst; but our captain persuaded +them against this measure. In this extremity, it pleased God to +send us such abundant rain, that we were enabled to supply +ourselves with water. On getting into the hot climate near the +line, our dried penguins began to corrupt, and there bred in them +many loathsome worms, an inch in length. These worms increased +with astonishing rapidity, devouring our victuals so fast that we +now seemed doomed to die of famine, as before of thirst We were +even in danger of being eaten up by these worms, which devoured +every thing except iron. They so gnawed the timbers of our ship, +that we feared they would eat holes through her sides. We used +every possible contrivance to destroy these noisome vermin, but +they seemed only to increase so much the more, so that at last +they would eat our flesh, and bite us like mosquitoes when we +were asleep.</p> + +<p>In this woeful plight, after we had passed the equator towards +the north, our men began to fall sick of a most terrible disease, +such as, I believe, was never before heard of. It began with a +swelling in their ankles, which in two days rose up as high as +their breasts, so that they could not breathe. It then fell into +the scrotum, which, with the penis, swelled in a most grievous +manner, so that they could neither stand, walk, nor lie; and many +of them became frantic with grief and distress. Our captain, with +extreme distress of mind, was in so miserable a condition, that +he wished to die; yet, while scarcely able to speak for sorrow, +he continued to exhort us all to patience and reliance on God, +desiring us to accept our chastisement like dutiful and thankful +children. In this state of misery and wretchedness, several died +raving mad, and others in a most loathsome state, or in dreadful +pain and agony. None in the ship remained in perfect health, +except the captain and one boy; the master also, though oppressed +with extreme labour and anxiety, bore up with spirit, so that his +disease did not overcome him.</p> + +<p>At length all our men died except sixteen, five only of whom +were able to move. These were, the captain, who was in good +health, the master indifferent, Captain Cotton and myself swollen +and short-winded, yet better than the other sick men, and the boy +in good health. Upon us five the whole labour of the ship rested. +The captain and master, as happened to be necessary, took in and +left out the topsails. The master by himself attended to the +sprit-sail, and all of us the capstan, being utterly unable to +work sheets and tacks. Our misery and weakness were so extreme, +that we were utterly unable to take in or set a sail; so that our +top-sails and sprit-sail were at length torn in pieces by the +weather. The captain and master had to take their turns at the +helm, where they were inexpressibly grieved and distressed by the +continual and sad lamentations of our few remaining sick men.</p> + +<p>Thus lost wanderers on the ocean, unable to help ourselves, it +pleased God, on the 11th of June, 1593, that we arrived at +Beerhaven in Ireland, and ran the ship there on shore. The Irish +helped us to take in our sails, and to moor the ship so as to +float her off next tide; for which slender aid it cost the +captain ten pounds, before he could get the ship into a state of +safety. Thus, without men, sails, victuals, or other means, God +alone guided us into Ireland. Here the captain left the master +and three or four more of the company to keep the ship; and +within five days after our arrival, he and some others got a +passage in a fishing-boat to Padstow in Cornwall. For the +merciful preservation of this our small remnant, and our +restoration to our country, be all honour and glory to God, now +and for ever.--<i>Amen</i>.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-4" id="chapter4-4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE OF OLIVER VAN NOORT ROUND THE WORLD IN +1598--1601.[67]</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the United Provinces of the Netherlands, +after their separation from the Spanish monarchy, found +themselves extremely at a loss for means to supply the expences +of the long and vigorous war in which they were engaged for the +defence of their liberties. This gave them the more uneasiness, +as their great enemy, Philip II. carried on the war against them, +more by the length of his purse than the force of his arms, and +because the riches, of the Spanish monarchy were derived from +sources of commerce and colonization that were prohibited to +them, even if they had submitted themselves to the yoke of Spain. +The sense, therefore, of these difficulties, joined to the vast +advantages they were likely to reap by overcoming them, induced +the government and people of Holland to prosecute the advancement +of trade in general with the greatest vigour, and particularly to +establish a commercial intercourse with the East and West Indies, +the great sources of wealth to their tyrannical oppressor and +enemy, from whom they had revolted.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 67: Harris, I. 31.--Two editions of this +voyage were published in Dutch, both in folio; one at Rotterdam +without date; and the other at Amsterdam in 1602. <i>Bib, Univer. +des Voyages</i>, I. 115.]</blockquote> + +<p>Among other inducements to this course of proceeding, they +were not a little encouraged by the progress made by their +neighbours, the English; seeing that even private persons, and +with a small force, had been able to disquiet the Spaniards +exceedingly; and had at the same time acquired great riches to +themselves. Another cause of attempting expeditions like the +present, was their having failed in their first scheme of finding +a new passage to the East Indies, than that with which the +Spaniards and Portuguese were acquainted, which they had often +and unsuccessfully endeavoured to explore by the north-east, with +great hazard and expence. Their first voyages to the East Indies +proving more fortunate even than they themselves had expected, +they were tempted to proceed farther, and to distress their +enemies likewise in the South Sea, which hitherto had only been +done by the English.</p> + +<p>The distressed states of Holland, however, were not hitherto +so powerful at sea as to attempt acting offensively against the +king of Spain on that element; but contented themselves with +giving power and authority to any of their subjects who were +inclined to venture upon expeditions of this nature, at their own +risk and expence, so as at the same time to join their own +private advantage with the public good, by fitting out squadrons +for these distant and hazardous voyages. This policy, though +arising in some measure from necessity, was conducted with such +wisdom and address, that the king of Spain soon found himself +more distressed by the armaments of the Dutch merchants, than by +all the forces of the United States. This is a plain proof; that +the surest way to render any government powerful, is to interest +the people in general in its support: For this raises such spirit +among them, and is followed by such unexpected consequences, as +no art or force can withstand.</p> + +<p>In the beginning of the year 1598, some eminent merchants in +the united provinces, among whom were Peter van Bueren, Hugo +Gerritz, and John Bennick, formed a design of sending some stout +ships through the Straits of Magellan into the South Sea, to +cruise against the Spaniards; to which design they were chiefly +instigated by the reports of many English seamen, who had served +in these parts, under Drake, Candish, and Hawkins, and other +experienced officers. The purpose of the present expedition, was +to cruise upon the coasts belonging to the Spaniards, and to +force the enemy of peace to bear the expences of those wars in +which he obliged other people unwillingly to engage. They also +proposed by it to gain nautical experience, if it should be found +practicable to continue the voyage by the Philippines, and so +round by the Cape of Good Hope, circumnavigating the globe.</p> + +<p>As the success of this important enterprise greatly depended +upon the choice of a <i>general</i>, for so in those days the +Dutch, and most other nations, denominated the commander in +chief, whether by sea or land, the adventurers took great care to +provide themselves with a person of established character, both +in regard to conduct and courage. The person chosen on this +occasion was Oliver van Noort, a native of Utrecht, in the flower +of his age, and who had a strong passion to acquire glory. To him +they communicated their scheme, which he readily embraced; and +their terms being speedily adjusted, they proceeded to fit out +two stout vessels one named the Maurice, and the other the Henry +Frederick, together with two yachts, railed the Concord and the +Hope, the whole being manned by 248 persons of all ranks and +conditions.</p> + +<p>Of this small fleet, Oliver van Noort was appointed admiral, +and sailed in the Maurice; James Claas van Ulpenda was captain of +the Henry Frederick, with the title of vice-admiral, Captain +Peter van Lint commanded the Concord, and John Huidecoope was +captain of the Hope. These were all men of experience in sea +affairs, and capable of maintaining their authority on all +occasions, and were all interested in the success of the voyage, +by means of shares in the outfit; a proper precaution then, and +ever since usual among the Dutch in all such cases, to prevent +their expeditions from suffering by private views, or want of +hearty concurrence in their officers: which, among other nations, +is often the cause of failure, and for which this method is, +perhaps, the only cure.</p> + +<p>All things being in readiness, and crews provided for all the +vessels, the proprietors presented a petition to the Board of +Admiralty of Rotterdam, upon which all who were concerned were +summoned to compeer: and, on the 28th June, 1598, the rules and +regulations for the government of all concerned in this +expedition, having been previously drawn up by the company of +adventurers, revised by the admiralty and approved of by the +Stadtholder, Prince Maurice, were publicly read over to them, and +every man sworn to obey them. These sailing orders are called +Artykelbreefs by the Dutch, and are never suffered to be put in +force, till they have received this kind of sanction from the +state, when they become the law of the voyage, to which all +concerned are subject, and must undergo the penalties contained +in them, for breach of any of the articles. This circumstance is +worthy of remark and imitation by other nations, and is a strong +proof of the care paid by that republic to the commercial welfare +of its citizens.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of September, 1598, the Maurice and Concord sailed +from the port of Gocree; and, being joined by the Henry Frederick +and Hope, from Amsterdam, the whole fleet proceeded for Plymouth, +where their English pilot, Mr Mellish, who had been the companion +of Sir Thomas Candish in his navigations, was to take in his +apparel and other necessaries. They sailed from Plymouth on the +21th September, the wind then blowing a fresh gale at N.E. Next +morning, being out of the channel, they perceived that the boat +belonging to the vice-admiral was missing, in which were six men, +which gave them considerable uneasiness, insomuch that they had +some intention of returning to Plymouth in search of them. They +met, however, with an English privateer, which soon made them +alter their intentions; by assuring them that their men had run +away with the boat, and could not be recovered, on which they +resolved to proceed on their voyage. At this time considerable +jealousies sprung up, respecting the capacity and conduct of the +vice-admiral, which were soon increased by his losing his other +boat and one man, and which could not be recovered by all their +care. This carelessness occasioned much murmuring and discontent +among the seamen, which the vice-admiral daily increased by his +haughty behaviour, and by his contempt for advice, which no man +needed more than he.</p> + +<p>The 4th October, they met a small fleet of English, Dutch, and +French ships, returning from Barbary, from whom they had accounts +of a terrible pestilence then raging in that country, which had +swept away 250,000 persons in a very short space of time. The +6th, they came between the islands of Teneriff and Grand Canary, +and on the 3d November, they came in sight of the coast of +Guinea. December 4th they were off Cape Palma, in lat. 3° 30' +N.[68] and on the 10th came in sight of Princes Island, in lat. +1° N.[69] Sending their boats ashore to this island, carrying +a flag of truce, they were met on the shore by a negro, bearing a +similar flag, from whom they demanded a supply of provisions, +which was accorded on fair and friendly terms; but, while +settling the terms, they were suddenly surprised by a party from +an ambush, which cut off several of them, one of whom was Mr +Mellish, their English pilot. The Portuguese pursued them to +their boats, which they briskly attached, killing the admiral's +brother, and had nearly captured the whole party. In revenge of +this outrage, it was determined in a council of war to attack the +castle; but finding this enterprize too hazardous, they contented +themselves with burning all the sugar ingenios. After this +exploit, having provided themselves with fresh water, they set +sail on the 17th.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 68: Cape Formosa is probably here meant, +which is in 4° 18' N.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 69: The latitude of Princes Island is +1° 40' N.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They reached Cape Gonçalves on the 25th, where the wind +usually blows from the land all night, and from the sea all day. +Here they found two Dutch ships, which informed them of the loss +of Captain Sleerhagen and most of his company at Princes Island; +as also of the voyage of Peter Verhagen, who had entered the +river of Congo, and had afterwards buried thirty-eight of his +company at Cape Gonçalves, whence he had gone some time +before their arrival to Annobon.</p> + +<p>January 1st, 1589, they passed the island of Annobon, in lat. +2° S. [1° 30' S.] and on the 28th of that month had the +sun in their zenith. The 5th of March they reached Cape St Thomas +on the coast of Brazil, in lat. 22° S. [21° 15']. The 6th +they passed Cape Fair, and came that evening to Cape Frio, and on +the 9th reached Rio de Janeiro. After some loss of time, and +having several of their men cut off by their grand enemy the +Portuguese, they went to the island of St Sebastian, in lat. +24° S. where the comforts of a good harbour, plenty of fresh +water, and an abundant supply of wood gave them much +satisfaction; but no fruits were to be had at that season.</p> + +<p>They encountered a heavy storm on the 14th of March, by which +the vice-admiral and the Hope were separated from the admiral, +but they met again on the 17th. The scurvy now began to make +rapid progress among the company; which, together with the +approach of the antarctic winter, determined them to put in at St +Helena. Missing that island, they next endeavoured to fall in +with the island of Ascension, or some other island where they +might procure refreshments; but their hard fortune brought them +to a very barren and desolate island in the lat. of 20° 30' +S.[70] where they could procure no refreshments, except a few +fowls called <i>Malle Mewen,</i>[71] which they knocked down with +clubs.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 70: The island of Trinidad is nearly in the +indicated latitude.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 71: These were probably young unfledged +sea-gulls, called in provincial English <i>Malls, Maws</i>, and +<i>Mews,</i> not unlike the Dutch names in the text; where +perhaps we ought to read Malle <i>or</i> Mewen.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Soon leaving this inhospitable place, they put to sea again, +and on the 1st of June, while endeavouring to reach Ascension, +they got back to the coast of Brazil. Not being suffered to land +any where on the continent, they sailed to the isle of Santa +Clara, an island of about a mile round, and as much from the +continent, in lat. 21° 15' S. This island afforded little +else beyond herbs, but they found here a sour fruit resembling +plums, which cured all their sick men in fifteen days. They +sailed from thence for Port Desire, in lat 47° 40' S. on the +16th June, and reached that place on the 20th September, after +enduring much bad weather. They procured abundance of penguins +and fish, at an island three miles south from Port Desire; +killing to the number of 50,000 penguins, which are nearly as +large as geese, and procured a vast quantity of their eggs, by +which their people were greatly refreshed, and the sick restored. +Going up the river on the 5th October, and landing in the +country, they found animals resembling stags, together with +buffaloes, and ostriches in great numbers, and even found some of +the nests of these birds, in which were as far as nineteen eggs. +The 20th, the admiral went ashore to view the country, leaving +orders with those who were left in charge of the boats, not to +leave them a moment on any account: But they, having a mind also +to see the country, ventured upon a short ramble, when they fell +into an ambush of the savages, who slew three of their number, +and wounded the fourth. These savages were very tall portly men, +painted, and armed with short bows, and arrows headed with +stone.</p> + +<p>Leaving Port Desire on the 29th September, they reached Cape +Virgin at the entrance into the Straits of Magellan on the 24th +November. The land here is low and plain, and from the whiteness +of the coast somewhat resembles the chalk cliffs of England in +the channel. In many attempts to enter the straits, they were +beaten back by tempests of wind, accompanied by rain, hail, and +snow. They lost their anchors, and broke their cables, and +sickness, together with contention, which is worse than any +disease, were added to their other calamities. All these so +retarded the progress of the voyage, that it was near fifteen +months after leaving Holland before they could make their way +into the straits. They observed the land to trend from Cape +Virgin to the S.W. and the mouth of the straits to be fourteen +miles distant from that cape, and half a mile wide.[72] On the +25th November, they saw some men on two islands near Cape Nassau, +who shook their weapons at the Hollanders, as in defiance. The +Dutch landed, and pursued the savages into a cave, which they +bravely defended to the last man, and were all slain on the spot. +Going now into this dark cave, the Dutch found the women and +children of the slain savages, when the mothers, expecting +present death to themselves and their infants, covered their +little ones with their own bodies, as if determined to receive +the first stab. But the Dutch did them no other injury, except +taking away four boys and two girls, whom they carried on ship +board.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 72: These must necessarily be Dutch miles, +15 to the degree, each equal to nearly 4.66 English miles. By the +mouth of the straits in the text, must be understood what is +called the Narrows of the Hope.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From one of these boys, after he had learnt the Dutch +language, they had the following intelligence. The larger of the +two islands was named <i>Castemme</i> by the natives, and the +tribe inhabiting it <i>Enoo</i>. The smaller island was called +<i>Talche</i>. Both were frequented by great numbers of penguins, +the flesh of which served the natives as food, and their skins +for cloathing. Their only habitations were caves. The +neighbouring continent abounded in ostriches, which they also +used as food. The natives of these dreary regions were +distinguished into tribes, each having their respective +residences. The <i>Kemenetes</i> dwelt in <i>Kaesay;</i> the +<i>Kennekin</i> in <i>Karamay</i>; the <i>Karaiks</i> in +<i>Morina</i>: All these are of the ordinary size, but +broad-breasted, and painted all over; the men tying up their +pudenda in a string, and the women covering their parts of shame +with the skins of a penguin; the men wearing their hair long, +while that of the women was kept very short; and both sexes going +naked, except cloaks made of penguin skins, reaching only to the +waist. There was also a fourth tribe, called <i>Tirimenen</i>, +dwelling in <i>Coin</i>, who were of a gigantic stature, being +ten or twelve feet high,[73] and continually at war with the +other tribes.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 73: This absurdity might be pardoned in the +ignorant savage boy, who knew neither numerals nor measures; but +in the grave reporters it is truly ridiculous, and yet the lie +has been renewed almost down to the close of the eighteenth +century.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 28th November, the navigators went over to the continent, +or north side of the straits, seeing some whales at a distance, +and observed a pleasant river, about which were some beautiful +trees with many parrots. Owing to this fine prospect, they called +the mouth of this river <i>Summer Bay</i>. The 29th they made +sail for <i>Port Famine</i>, where the land trends so far to the +south, that the main land of Patagonia and the islands of Terra +del Fuego seemed, when seen afar off, to join together. They +found here no remains of the late city of King Philip, except a +heap of stones. The straits are here four miles wide, having +hills of vast height on both sides, perpetually covered with +snow. At Port Famine they cut down wood to build a boat, and +found the bark of the trees to be hot and biting like pepper.[74] +Not finding good water at this place, and indeed doubting if it +were Port Famine, they proceeded onwards, and found a good river +two miles farther west on the 1st December. Next day they doubled +Cape Froward, with some danger, on account of bad anchorage and +contrary winds.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 74: The Wintera aromatica, the bark of +which is called Winter's bark, said to have been first discovered +by Captain Winter in 1567, on the coast of Terra Magellanica. The +sailors employed this bark as a spice, and found it salutary in +the scurvy.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Passing four miles beyond this cape, they anchored in a large +bay, where was a plant resembling sneezwort, which they found +serviceable in the scurvy; also another plant, which rendered +those who eat of it distracted for a time. They here fell in with +two ships belonging to the fleet under Verhagen, which had been +driven back out of the South Sea, one of which was commanded by +Sebaldt de Weert, who told them he had been five months in the +straits, and had only thirty-eight remaining out of 110 men, and +not being able to bear up against the storms in the South Sea, +had been forced to put in here, while the rest of the fleet under +Verhagen held on their course.[75] These ships wished to have +joined the expedition under Van Noort, but were forced to remain +in the straits for want of provisions, which the others could not +spare. They afterwards got back to Holland on the 13th July, +1600.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 75: The voyage of Verhagen, or so much of +it rather as relates to the adventures of Sebaldt de Weert, +follows the present voyage of Van Noort in the Collection by +Harris, vol. I. pp. 37-44; and is, therefore, retained in the +same situation on the present occasion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Van Noort and his ships left this bay on the 2d January, 1600, +directing their course for Maurice bay, which they found to +extend far to the eastwards, and to receive several rivers, the +mouths of which were filled with vast quantities of ice, which +seemed never to melt. It was now near midsummer of this southern +clime, and the ice was so thick that they could not find its +bottom with a line of ten fathoms. The land here seemed a +congeries of broken islands, yet appearing like one continued +mass, owing to the height of the mountains. They were here much +distressed by hunger and continual rains, and two of their men +were slain by the savages, while gathering muscles, which formed +their chief subsistence. After weathering many storms in +<i>Meniste</i> bay, and having several encounters with the +savages, they set sail on the 17th, and were driven into Penguin +bay, or Goose bay, three miles from Meniste bay, and receiving +its name from the vast multitude of penguins found there. At this +place, James Claas van Ulpenda, the vice-admiral, was arraigned +before a council of war, for various breaches of the articles +sworn to before proceeding on the voyage. Having a fair trial, +and sufficient time allowed him for his defence, he was condemned +to be turned ashore in the straits, with a small supply of +provisions, and allowed to shift for himself among the wild +beasts and more savage inhabitants, which sentence was +accordingly executed, so that he doubtless soon fell a prey +either to hunger or the natives, who are implacable enemies to +all strangers.</p> + +<p>They entered another bay on the 1st February, which they +called Popish bay, probably owing to some cross erected on its +shore, and in which they were exposed to much danger. On the +27th, they saw at a distance a huge mountain of ice in Penguin +bay. The 28th they passed Cape Deseado, or Desire, into the South +Sea, bidding adieu to the many dismal prospects of the Straits of +Magellan. Their company, originally 248 men, was now reduced to +147, but was soon still farther lessened by losing company of the +Henry Frederick, which never rejoined. Waiting for that ship in +vain till the 12th March, they sailed to the island of Mocha on +the coast of Chili, in lat. 38° 22' S. and six miles [twenty +English] from the continent. This island is remarkable by a high +mountain in the middle, which is cloven at the top, and whence a +water-course descends into the vale land at its foot. They here +bartered knives and hatchets with the natives for sheep, poultry, +maize, <i>bartulas</i>,[76] and other fruits. The town consisted +of about fifty straw huts, where the Dutch were regaled with a +sour kind of drink, called <i>cici</i>, made of maiz steeped in +water, which is the favourite drink of the Chilese at their +feasts. Polygamy is much practised among these people, who buy as +many wives as they can afford to maintain; so that a man who has +many daughters, especially if they be handsome, is accounted +rich. If one man kill another, he is judged by the relations of +the deceased, as they have no laws or magistrates among them, so +that the murderer may sometimes buy off his punishment by giving +a drinking-bout of <i>cici</i>. Their cloathing is manufactured +from the wool of a large kind of sheep, which animal they also +employ to carry burdens. They would not sell any of these, but +parted freely with another kind, not very different.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 76: This probably means battatas or +potatoes, a native production of Chili.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From thence they went to the island of St Mary, in lat. +37° S. eighteen miles [ninety-five English] from Mocha, where +they fell in with a Spanish ship carrying lard and meal from +Conception to Valdivia in Araucania, which they chased and took. +The pilot of this ship informed them that they would not be able +to return to the island of St Mary, owing to the south wind, and +that two Spanish ships of war were waiting for them at Arica. +Upon this information they resolved to sail for Valparaiso, and +by that means quite lost all chance of being rejoined by the +Henry Frederick, which might otherwise have got up with them. +Besides, they concluded that the missing ship had failed to find +St Mary's isle, owing to its being wrong placed in the map of +Plancius, in lat. 38° S. which error they themselves had +fallen into, had they not been set right by the observations of +Mr Mellish. They were farther confirmed in the resolution of not +returning to the island of St Mary, by hearing of the misfortune +which had there befallen Simon de Cordes, who was there butchered +with twenty-three of his men, after being invited on shore in a +friendly manner by the Indians, owing to the treachery of the +Spaniards endeavouring to get possession of his two ships, and +sending intelligence to Lima and all about the country of the +arrival of the Dutch in these seas, with a list of their ships, +and the names of all their commanders. For these reasons they +proceeded to Valparaiso, where they took two ships and killed +some Indians, but all the Spaniards escaped on shore. Valparaiso +is in lat. 35° 5' S. And about eighteen miles inland, [100 +English miles] is the town of St Jago, abounding in red wine and +sheep. They kill these animals merely for the sake of their +tallow, with which alone they load many vessels. Here they +received letters from the captain of the Flying Hart, one of the +squadron under Verhagen, who had been treacherously captured by +the Spaniards; owing, as he alleged, to the wrong placement of +the island of St Mary in the map, by which he had been +misled.</p> + +<p>At Valparaiso they intercepted some letters giving an account +of the wars in Chili between the Spaniards and the Indians, who +it seems were in rebellion, had sacked the town of Valdivia, +putting vast numbers of Spaniards to the sword, and carrying off +many captives. They burnt the houses and churches, knocking off +the heads of the popish images, crying, "Down go the gods of the +Spaniards." They then crammed the mouths of these images with +gold, bidding them satisfy themselves with that, for the sake of +which their votaries had committed so many barbarous massacres of +their nation. They afterwards laid close siege to the city of +Imperial, and had almost starved the Spanish garrison into a +surrender. The valiant Indians who undertook this enterprise were +about 5000, of whom 5000 were cavalry, 100 were armed with +muskets, and 70 had corslets, all of which were plunder they had +taken from the Spaniards. They so mortally hate the Spaniards, +that they rip up the breasts of all they overcome, tearing out +their hearts with their teeth, and they delight to drink their +favourite liquor from a cup made of a Spaniard's skull.</p> + +<p>These Indians [the Araucans] are for the most part very stout, +and skilful soldiers, and commit the management of all their +military affairs to the direction of one supreme general, whose +orders are implicitly obeyed. Their method of election to this +high dignity is very singular; for he who carries a certain log +of wood on his shoulders the longest, and with the smallest +appearance of weariness, is saluted general by the army. In this +trial several carried the log four, five, and six hours; but at +length one carried it twenty-four hours on end, and this person +was now general. The whole of Chili, from St Jago to Valdivia, is +one of the most fertile and most delightful countries in the +world. It abounds in all kinds of cattle and fruit, has many rich +gold mines, and its climate is so sweet and salubrious as to +exclude the use of medicine, being health and life in itself.</p> + +<p>They entered the bay of Guasco[77] on the 1st April, where +they remained till the 7th. The 11th they came into a large bay, +named <i>Moro Gorch</i>, in lat. 18° 30' S. ten miles from +which is <i>Moro Moreno</i>, from which the shore runs to Arica, +and all this coast, up to the hill of St Francis, is very much +subject to south winds, though the adjoining seas have the winds +variable and uncertain. On the 20th the whole air was darkened by +an <i>Arenal</i> which is a cloud of dust, and so thick that one +cannot see a stone's throw. These are raised by the wind from the +adjoining shore, and are very common in these parts. The 25th +they were within view of the famous city of Lima in Peru. At this +time they learnt the value of the treasure of which the Spaniards +had deprived them, in the ships they took on the coast of Chili. +Nicholas Peterson, the captain of one of these prizes, acquainted +Van Noort that he had been informed by a negro of a great +quantity of gold having been on board the ship, as he believed to +the amount of three tons, having helped to carry a great part of +it on board. On this information the admiral closely examined the +Spanish pilot, who at first denied all knowledge of any gold; but +another negro having corroborated the information, with some +farther circumstances, the pilot at last owned that they had on +board fifty-two chests, each containing four arobas of gold, and +besides these 500 bars of the same metal, weighing from eight to +ten and twelve pounds each; all of which, together with what +private stock belonged to any of the company, the captain had +ordered to be thrown overboard in the night, when first chased, +amounting in the whole to about 10,200 pounds weight of gold; +and, from its fineness, worth about two million pieces of eight, +or Spanish silver dollars. Upon this the admiral ordered the ship +and all the prisoners to be searched, but there was only found a +single pound of gold dust, tied up in a rag, in the breeches +pocket of the Spanish pilot. The prisoners owned that all this +gold was brought from the island of St Mary, from mines +discovered only three years before; and that there were not more +than three or four Spaniards on that island, and about 200 +Indians, only armed with bows and arrows.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 77: Perhaps Huasco in lat. 28° 27' S. +or it may possibly have been Guacho, in 25° 50' +S.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 5th September they came in sight of the Ladrones, and came +on the 16th to Guam, one of these an island of about twenty Dutch +miles in extent, and yielding fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and +sugar canes, all of which the natives brought to the ships in a +great number of canoes. Sometimes they met 200 of these canoes at +one time, with four or five men in each, bawling out <i>hiero, +hiero,</i> meaning iron; and often in their eagerness they run +their canoes against the ships, overturning them and losing all +their commodities. These islanders were a sly subtle people, and +honest with good looking after; for otherwise, they would sell a +basket of cocoa-nut shells covered over with a small quantity of +rice, as if full of rice. They would also snatch a sword from its +scabbard, and plunge instantly into the water, where they dived +like so many ducks; and the women were as roguish as the men, +stealing as impudently, and diving as expertly to carry off their +prizes.</p> + +<p>The 17th of September they sailed for the Philippines; and on +the 20th they met with ice, though then only in the latitude of +3° N.[78] On the 16th October they came to Bayla bay, in a +very fertile land, at which place they procured abundance of all +kinds of necessaries for their ships, by pretending to be +Spaniards. The Spaniards, who are lords here, make the Indians +pay an annual capitation tax, to the value of ten single rials +for every one above twenty years of age. The natives of these +islands are mostly naked, having their skins marked with figures +so deeply impressed, [<i>tatooed</i>] that they never wear out. +Being discovered to be Dutch, but not till they had gained their +ends, they sailed for the Straits of Manilla, all the coasts near +which appeared waste, barren, and rocky. Here a sudden squall of +wind from the S.E. carried away some of their masts and sails, +being more furious than any they had hitherto experienced during +the voyage. The 23d some of the people went ashore, where they +eat palmitoes and drank water so greedily, that they were +afterwards seized with the dysentery. The 24th they entered the +straits, sailing past an island in the middle, and came in the +evening past the island of Capul, seven miles within the straits, +near which they found whirlpools, where the sea was of an +unfathomable depth, so far as they could discover.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 78: This surely is an error for 18°, +Guam being in lat. 18° 20' N. yet even here, the fact of +meeting ice so far within the tropic is sufficiently +singular.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They now crowded sail for Manilla, which is eighty miles from +Capul, but wanted both a good wind to carry them, and good maps +and a skilful pilot to direct them to that place. The 7th +November they took a junk from China, laden with provisions for +Manilla. The master of this junk told them there were then at +Manilla two great ships, that come every year from New Spain, and +a Dutch ship also which had been brought from Malacca. He said +also that the town of Manilla was walled round, having two forts +for protecting the ships, as there was a vast trade to that place +from China, not less than 400 junks coming every year from +Chincheo, with silk and other valuable commodities, between +Easter and December. There were also two ships expected shortly +from Japan, laden with iron and other metals, and provisions. The +15th they took two barks, laden with hens and hogs, being part of +the tribute to the Spaniards, but became food to the Dutch, who +gave them a few bolts of linen in return.</p> + +<p>They passed the islands of <i>Bankingle</i> and +<i>Mindoro</i>, right over against which is the island of +<i>Lou-bou</i>. at the distance of two miles, and between both is +another small island, beside which there is a safe passage for +ships. The island of Luzon is larger than England and +Scotland,[79] and has a numerous cluster of small islands round +about it; yet is more beholden to trade for its riches, than to +the goodness of its soil. While at anchor, in 15° N. waiting +for the ships said to be coming from Japan, Van Noort took one of +them on the 1st December, being a vessel of fifty tons, which had +been twenty-five days on her voyage. Her form was very strange, +her forepart being like a chimney, and her furniture +corresponding to her shape; as her sails were made of reeds, her +anchors of wood, and her cables of straw. Her Japanese mariners +had their heads all close shaven, except one tuft left long +behind, which is the general custom of that country. The 9th, +they took two barks, one laden with cocoa wine and arrack, and +the other with hens and rice.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 79: Luzon is certainly a large island, but +by no means such as represented in the text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 14th of December they met the two Spanish ships returning +from Manilla to New Spain, on which a very sharp engagement took +place. Overpowered by numbers, the Dutch in the ship of Van Noort +were reduced to the utmost extremity, being at one time boarded +by the Spaniards, and almost utterly conquered; when Van Noort, +seeing all was lost without a most resolute exertion, threatened +to blow up his ship, unless his men fought better and beat off +the Spaniards. On this, the Dutch crew fought with such desperate +resolution, that they cleared their own ship, and boarded the +Spanish admiral, which at last they sunk outright. In this action +the Dutch admiral had five men slain, and twenty-six wounded, the +whole company being now reduced to thirty-five men. But several +hundreds of the Spaniards perished, partly slain in the fight, +and partly drowned or knocked in the head after the battle was +over. But the Dutch lost their pinnace, which was taken by the +Spanish vice-admiral; and this was not wonderful, considering +that she had only twenty-five men to fight against five hundred +Spaniards and Indians.</p> + +<p>After this action, Van Noort made sail for the island of +Borneo, the chief town of which island is in lat. 5° N. while +Manilla, the capital of Luçon, is in lat. 15° N. On +the way to Borneo, they passed the island of <i>Bolutam</i>, +[Palawan or Paragua,] which is 180 miles in length from N.E. to +S.W. They came to Borneo on the 26th December, putting into a +great bay, three miles in compass, where there was good +anchorage, and abundance of fish in a neighbouring river, and the +fishermen always ready to barter their fish for linen. Van Noort +sent a message to the king, desiring leave to trade; but +suspecting them to be Spaniards, he would come to no terms till +his officers had examined them with the utmost attention, after +which they had trade for pepper with a people called +<i>Pattannees</i>, of Chinese origin. Both these and the native +Borneans were fond of Chinese cotton cloth, but the linen from +Holland was a mere drug, and quite unsaleable. In the mean time, +the Borneans laid a plot to surprise the ship; for which purpose, +on the 1st January, 1601, they came with at least an hundred +praws full of men, pretending to have brought presents from the +king, and would have come on board the ship; but the Dutch, +suspecting their treachery, commanded them to keep at a distance +from the ship, or they would be obliged to make them do so with +their shot, on which the Borneans desisted.</p> + +<p>Borneo is the largest of all the islands in the East-Indies; +and its capital, of the same name, contains about 300 houses, but +is built in a dirty marshy soil, or rather in the water, so that +the inhabitants have to go from one house to another in their +praws. The inhabitants all go constantly armed, from the noble +down to the fisherman; and even the women are of so martial a +disposition, that on receiving an affront, they instantly revenge +it, either with a dagger or a javelin. This a Dutchman had nearly +proved to his cost; for having offended one of these viragoes, +she set upon him with a javelin, and had surely dispatched him, +if she had not been prevented by main force. They are Mahometans, +and so very superstitious, that they would rather die than eat of +swine's flesh, nor will they keep any of these animals about +them. The better sort have a cotton garment from the waist down, +with a turban on their heads; but the common people go entirely +naked. They continually chew betel and areka, which is also a +common practice in many other parts of India.</p> + +<p>On the 4th January, four Borneans came to the ship, intending +to have cut the cables, that she might drive on shore and become +their prey; but the Dutch fortunately discovered them, and drove +them away with shot, when they left their praw behind, which the +Dutch took, to serve instead of their own boat, which they had +lost at the Philippines. Seeing no hope of any profitable trade +at this place, they now left it, intending for Bantam, not much +pleased either with the country or the people. The day after +leaving Borneo, they met a junk from Japan bound for Manilla, +which informed them of a great Dutch ship being forced by +tempests into Japan, all her company having died by sickness and +famine except fourteen. They came first to <i>Bongo</i>, in lat. +34° 40' N. [Bungo in about lat. 33° N.] whence the +emperor of Japan ordered them to remove to <i>Atonza</i>, in lat. +36° 30' N. [Osaka in lat. 34' 55' N.] They alleged that they +were allowed to trade, and to build a new ship, with liberty to +dispose of themselves afterwards as they pleased. From this +account, it was not doubted that this was the admiral of +Verhagen's fleet;[80] and dismissing the Japanese vessel, they +passed the line a third time, and proceeded for Bantam, in no +little fear and danger, for want of an experienced pilot and good +charts.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 80: This was the ship in which William +Adams sailed as pilot, as related on a former occasion, being the +Hope, commanded by James Mahu, one of five ships from Rotterdam. +We have already had occasion to meet with two of these in the +Straits of Magellan.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 16th they took a junk belonging to Jor or Johor, in which +they procured an experienced and skilful pilot, who came in good +time to save them from shipwreck, which they had otherwise most +probably suffered in these dangerous seas, so thick set with +shoals and islands on every side, with which they were entirely +unacquainted; and besides, they were now reduced to one anchor, +and one solitary cable almost worn out. The 28th they came to +Jortan in the island of Java, where they had news of several +Dutch ships being at Bantam. The city of Jortan consists of about +1000 houses built of timber, and its king commands over a +considerable portion of that end of the island, and had lately +conquered <i>Balambuan</i>, a small island S.E. from Jortan. The +people in these parts are said to be Mahometans; yet, as pagods +are still in use, they seem to retain some mixture of the old +Indian superstitions, or at least some remnant of paganism is +tolerated among the common people. Their chief priest at this +time was an old man, said to be an hundred and twenty years of +age, who had a large household of wives, who fed the old man with +their milk.</p> + +<p>Sailing past Jortan, they saw a large Portuguese ship of 600 +tons, sticking fast among the shoals. She was bound for Amboina, +on purpose to have engrossed all the trade of that place; at +least such was the report of the Portuguese; but Van Noort +strongly suspected she had been sent out to cruize for the +purpose of intercepting him. He was, therefore, the less +concerned for her misfortune, and the less careful in assisting +her crew, originally of between six and seven hundred men, many +of whom were still on board, and in great danger of perishing. +The 5th of February, they passed the straits between +<i>Balambuan</i> and <i>Bally</i>, leaving Java on the N.E.[81] +On the 11th, finding themselves in lat 13° S. they directed +their course for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 18th, having the +sun vertical at noon, their latitude was 11° 20' S. and here +a calm began which lasted eleven days. The 11th March they were +in lat. 24° 45' S. and in 28° 10' S. on the 24th.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 81: This is an obvious error, as the +Straits of Bally are at the <i>east</i> end of Java, which they +must consequently have left on the N.W. of their +course.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 19th of April, having been considerably retarded by cross +winds and calms, they were under the necessity to lessen their +allowance of water. At night of the 24th they observed light, as +of a fire, on land, about four miles to the N.W. although they +reckoned themselves 200 miles from the cape, and were not aware +of having approached any other land. The 25th, being calm +weather, they were enabled to mend their sails, and at night +another fire was observed; and in the morning of the 26th they +saw land. The 3d May they saw land between the east and north, +about six miles off, resembling the end of an island, by which +they reckoned themselves near the cape, and now shaped their +course for the island of St Helena, where they arrived on the +26th. They here refreshed themselves with fish and some flesh, +and laid in a supply of wood and water; but found goats and fowls +hard to be got, and could not procure any oranges.</p> + +<p>Leaving St Helena on the 30th May, they crossed the line for +the fourth time on the 14th of June; and on the 16th met a fleet +of six Dutch ships, under Admiral Heemskirk, bound for India. +These had fought with thirteen Spanish ships near the island of +Sal, and had lost their pinnace and vice-admiral; the former +having been taken by the Spaniards, and the latter having parted +company. The 8th July they were in lat. 27° N. when they fell +in with considerable quantities of the sea-weed called +<i>saragossa</i>. By the 13th they were in lat. 32° 30' N. +after which they had a calm of fifteen days, the sea being all +covered with weeds. The 22d they had to go upon short allowance +of bread, and that too much worm eaten. August 1st, being in lat. +40° N. they passed the island of Flores, forty-five miles to +the westward, by their estimation. They met three ships belonging +to Embden on the 18th, from whom they procured bread and flesh, +in exchange for rice and pepper; and from whom they learnt that +they were so near England, that they might expect to see the +Lizard next day. About noon of the 26th August, 1601, they +arrived in safety before the city of Rotterdam, where they were +received with the utmost joy, on their return from so long and +perilous a voyage, which had occupied three years, bating +eighteen days.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Voyage of Sebald de Weert, to the South Sea and Straits of +Magellan, in 1598</i>.[82]</p> + +<p>"Though not a circumnavigation, it seems necessary to give an +account of this voyage of Sebald de Weert, by way of supplement +to that of Oliver de Noort; because De Weert was fitted out with +the intention of sailing by the Straits of Magellan to India, and +because it is difficult to find so good a description of these +famous straits as he has given. De Weert was one of the best +seamen in Holland, and lived to distinguish himself afterwards by +many more successful enterprises; and I persuade myself the +reader will be pleased to see the firmness of an able commander, +struggling against a long series of misfortunes. This has always +been esteemed one of the best written, and most curious of all +the Dutch voyages, and is therefore given at +large."[83]--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 82: Harris, I. 36.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 83: So far Harris; but on the present +occasion several trivial and minute circumstances are omitted or +abbreviated.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION 1. <i>Incidents of the Voyage from Holland to the +Straits of Magellan</i>.</p> + +<p>The fleet fitted out for this expedition consisted of the Hope +of 500 tons, with 130 men, commanded by James Mahu, admiral; the +Love or Charity of 300 tons, and 110 men, commanded by Simon de +Cordes, vice-admiral; the Faith of 320 tons, and 100 men, of +which Gerard van Beuningen was captain; the Fidelity of 220 tons, +with 86 men, captain Jurian Buckholt; and a yacht of 150 tons and +112 men, called the Merry Messenger, captain Sebald de Weert. +These five ships were well provided with all manner of +provisions, cannon, small arms, ammunition, money, merchandise, +and stores necessary for a long voyage; and the pilot on whose +knowledge and experience they chiefly depended, was an Englishman +named William Adams,[84] besides whom there were three other +Englishmen on board the admiral.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 84: Of the adventures of this person in +Japan, we have formerly had occasion to give an account in vol. +VIII. p. 64, of this Collection, preceded by a brief abstract of +the voyages of Schald de Weert.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The fleet sailed from the road of Goeree in the Maese on the +27th June, 1598; but, owing to contrary winds, had to remain at +anchor in the Downs on the coast of England, till the 15th July. +The wind being then fair, they set sail on that day, and on the +19th were on the coast of Barbary. Towards the end of August, +they arrived in the harbour of St Jago, one of the Cape de Verd +islands, where they remained till the 10th September, although +the climate was very unhealthy, and the pilots, particularly Mr +Adams, remonstrated against continuing there; by which the +officers were so much offended, that they resolved never more to +call the pilots to council, which seems to have been the source +of all their subsequent misfortunes, and of that restless spirit +of mutiny and discontent, which possessed the seamen in this +fleet.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the 11th September, they were off the +desert island of Brava, and the bottom being rocky, so that they +could not anchor, they stood off and on all night, and coasting +along next morning they found some fresh water, which was hard to +be got, as the ships could not come to anchor, on account of a +bad bottom. The boats, however, of Captains Beuniugen and +Buckholt, went ashore with empty casks, which they filled and +brought on board, though then night and the ships under way. +Captain de Ween went ashore in a small sandy bay, and looking +about for fresh water, he saw some Portuguese and negroes coming +towards him, who told him the French and English ships used to +get fresh water near that place, but remained always under sail. +They said also, that no refreshments were to be had at this +island, but these might be had in the island of Fuego. After the +departure of the islanders, de Weert discovered four or five +ruinous small huts, the door of one being walled up, which he +found full of maize. On this discovery, he remained there with +three men, lest the Portuguese might carry off the maize in the +night, and sent some others in the boat to give notice to the +admiral of this discovery. Fortunately a small vessel belonging +to the bishop of St Thomas, taken by the Dutch at Praya, arrived +in the bay, to which de Weert removed all the maize. He also took +two female sea tortoises, in which were above 600 eggs, of which +they made many good meals. The Portuguese and negroes, finding +the Dutch busied in carrying away their maize, came down the +mountain, making a great noise; but de Weert, having two fusils, +fired at them and made them retire.</p> + +<p>On the return of de Weert, he found the admiral very sick, and +a council assembled in the Hope. He in the first place advised +them to remain no longer at the Cape Verd islands, and then +resigned his command to the vice-admiral, de Cordes. On advising +with the other captains, and learning the quantity of water in +each ship, de Cordes gave orders that such as had most should +give part to the others, and that the allowance of provisions and +water should be diminished, and as fresh water was not to be +expected for three or four months, they were directed to gather +rain-water when that could be had. The greatest part of the men +in the admiral's ship being sick, two or three of them were +removed into each of the other ships, in exchange for sound men. +The fleet sailed from Brava on the 15th September, and on the 22d +a signal was made from the admiral for the other captains. They +found the admiral, James Mahu, beyond hope of recovery; and that +night he and his supercargo, Daniel Restan, both died. He was of +a mild and gentle disposition, honest, careful, diligent, and +very kind to the seamen, and was much lamented by the whole +fleet. Opening the letters of the directors of the expedition, +which were directed to be opened in such a case, de Cordes was +appointed admiral, and Benningen vice-admiral; Sebald de Weert +being promoted to the command of the Faith, and Dirke Gernitsz +China to that of the yacht. These alterations did not please the +seamen, who were attached to their former commanders.</p> + +<p>By the 4th October, the scurvy raged much among the seamen, +especially in the Hope, on which de Cordes ordered a day of +prayer to be observed in the fleet, to implore the mercy of God +and a happy voyage. They were then in the lat. of 1° 45' S. +At length the scurvy increased so much in the Hope, that the +admiral had not men enough to work his ship, and it was resolved +to steer for some island where fresh provisions might be +procured. They steered accordingly for Annobon, where they hoped +to get fresh meat and oranges. Towards night, the admiral, who +sailed in the van, fired a gun as a signal of seeing land, though +all the pilots then thought the land at the distance of 100 +leagues. They accordingly approached the land, and anchored on +the coast of <i>Manicongo</i>, in lat. 3° S.[85] They here +lost company of the small ship belonging to St Thomas, in which +were eleven sound men, and some thought she had deserted, while +others thought she had run aground: But they afterwards found she +had gone to Cape Lope Gonzalves, where the men quitted her, going +aboard the ship of Baltazar Musheron, which was bound to +America.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 85: The latitude in the text falls near +Point Palmas, on the coast of Yumba, in what is called the +Kingdom of Congo. Mayumba bay, perhaps the Manicongo of the text, +is in lat. 4° 30' S.]</blockquote> + +<p>After several ineffectual attempts to procure refreshments for +their men on the coast of Africa and the island of Annobon, they +put to sea on the 3d January, 1599, from that island, with the +intention of sailing direct for the Straits of Magellan. The 22d +they passed the shelves and rocks on the coast of Brazil, called +the <i>Abrolhos</i>. The 9th March, one of the seamen in the +vice-admiral's ship was hanged, for repeatedly breaking open the +cupboard belonging to the cook, and stealing bread. About this +time, the sick beginning to recover, got such good appetites that +their allowance was not sufficient. The 12th, being near the Rio +Plata, the sea appeared as red as blood, and some of the water +being drawn up was found full of small red worms, that leaped out +of it like fleas.</p> + +<p>SECTION 2. <i>The Fleet passes through the Straits of Magellan +into the South Sea, and is forced to return</i>.</p> + +<p>The 6th of April, the fleet got into the Straits of Magellan, +and towards evening cast anchor under the smaller of the two +Penguin isles, fourteen leagues within the mouth of the straits. +They here saw vast numbers of those birds called <i>plongeons</i> +or divers, because they dive into the water to catch fish. They +killed there ten or fourteen of them with sticks, and might have +killed as many as would have served the whole fleet, but would +not lose the opportunity of a fair wind. The 9th they proceeded +through the straits; and next day the admiral sent fifty men on +shore, to look for inhabitants or cattle, but after travelling +three leagues along shore, they found nothing. They arrived in a +fine bay on the 15th, twenty-one leagues from the mouth of the +straits, called <i>Muscle bay</i> by the English, because of the +great quantities of muscles found there, and here they provided +themselves abundantly with fresh water and wood. The 17th they +sailed between two rocky shores, so close and so high that they +hardly thought to have got through. The mountains on both sides +were covered with snow. On the 18th, they cast anchor in a bay on +the north side of the straits, in lat. 54° S. called <i>Great +bay</i>, having good anchorage on fine sand. In this bay there +are three small islands, the least of which is farthest east.</p> + +<p>In these parts, there grow great quantities of trees, +resembling bay trees, but somewhat higher, the bark of which is +very bitter, and has a hot taste like pepper.[86] They here found +abundance of muscles, some of which were a span long, and when +boiled, the fish of three of them weighed a pound. The wind being +contrary, they lay here at anchor till the 23d of August,[87] +without taking the sails from the yards, to be ready to sail on a +change of wind. In the mean while they suffered much from cold, +in so much that they lost above an hundred men, among whom was +Captain Buckholt, who was succeeded by Baltazar de Cordes. Storms +were so frequent and violent during this time, that the ships +could not ride quietly at anchor, and the seamen were forced to +be continually at work to keep them right. They were also forced +to go often on shore, in rain, snow, and hail, to get in fresh +water, wood, muscles, and such other food as they could find, by +which they were greatly fatigued. The scarcity of victuals was so +great, and the climate so severe, that they were almost starved +with hunger and cold, and their appetites so insatiable, that +they devoured roots or any thing else they could find, raw and +uncooked. Most of the seamen had no watch-coats or other warm +cloathing, to enable them to support the fatigue of watching and +their daily labour, having made no provision of such things, as +they believed themselves bound to warm climes. To remedy this +evil, the general ordered cloth to be distributed among them.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 86: In Harris these are erroneously called +<i>Pimento</i>, but they must have been the <i>Wintera +aromatica</i>. The Pimento, or <i>Myrtus Pimenta</i>, is a native +of the warm regions of America and the West India islands, +producing Pimento, All-spice, or Jamaica +pepper.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 87: This date, here anticipated, refers to +the day when they afterwards set sail.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It was found that many of the seamen, when at their meals, +were in use to sell their victuals to others at high prices, and +afterwards satisfied their hunger with raw muscles and green +herbs, which occasioned them to fall into dropsies and other +lingering sickness, of which several died: For this reason, the +captains and other officers were ordered to be present at all +their meals, to see and oblige them to eat their allowances.</p> + +<p>The 7th May the vice-admiral was sent, with two boats, to an +island opposite Great bay, to catch sea-dogs.[88] He found there +seven small boats or canoes, with savages on board, who were of a +reddish colour with long hair, and, as well as he could observe, +seemed <i>ten or eleven feet high</i>. On seeing the Dutch boats, +the savages went on shore and threw many stones at the Dutch, so +that they did not venture to land. The savages then took courage, +and came towards them in their canoes; and coming within +musket-shot, the vice-admiral made his men give them a general +discharge, by which four or five of the savages were slain, and +the rest so frightened that they escaped again on shore. They +then pulled up some trees, which appeared afar off to be a span +thick; but the vice-admiral chose to let them alone, and returned +to the ships. The 26th of May, as some seamen were on shore, +looking for muscles, roots, and herbs, and were dispersed, +expecting no danger, a number of savages fell upon them suddenly, +killed three of them, whom they tore in pieces, and wounded two, +who were rescued by the admiral. All these savages were naked, +except one, who had the skin of a sea-dog or seal about his +shoulders. They were armed with wooden javelins, which they threw +with great strength and dexterity. The points of these javelins +were like cramp-irons, tied to the shafts with the guts of +sea-dogs, and would run so deep into the flesh, that it was +almost impossible to get them out.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 88: Seals are probably here +meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>While the fleet lay in this bay, the admiral ordered his +long-boat to be put upon the stocks, to be enlarged and altered +into a pinnace, which was named the Postillion, and the command +of her was given to the second pilot of the Hope. Having no +provisions for making broth, Captain de Weert landed on the 27th +July, in order to catch seals; and while he was ashore, so great +a storm arose that he was obliged to remain two days and two +nights, before he could get back to his ship, and caught nothing. +After enduring great hardships in this <i>Green bay</i>,[89] and +which the Dutch named the Bay of de Cordes, they set sail on the +23d of August, having the wind at N.E. but next day the weather +became so calm, that they were obliged to put into a great bay on +the south side of the straits. Here, to perpetuate the memory of +so dangerous and extraordinary a voyage into these straits, to +which no nation had hitherto sent so many or such large ships, +the general instituted a new order of knighthood, of which he +made his six principal officers knights. They bound themselves by +oath, never to do or consent to any thing contrary to their +honour or reputation, whatever might be the dangers or +extremities to which they were exposed, even death itself; nor to +do or suffer to be done any thing prejudicial to the interests of +their country, or of the voyage in which they were now engaged. +They also solemnly promised, freely to expose their lives against +all the enemies of their nation, and to use their utmost +endeavours to conquer those dominions whence the king of Spain +procured so much gold and silver, by which he was enabled to +carry on the war against their country. This ceremony was +performed ashore on the eastern coast of the straits, in as +orderly a manner as the place and occasion would permit, and the +order was named of <i>The Lion set free</i>, in allusion to the +Belgic lion, the cognizance of their country, which they +professed to use all their endeavours to free from the Spanish +yoke. After this ceremony, a tablet was erected on the top of a +high pillar, on which the names of the new-made knights were +inscribed, and the bay was named the <i>Bay of Knights</i>.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 89: This seems the same formerly named +Great bay.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving this bay on the 28th of August, they put into another +bay a league farther on, where they were again becalmed. The +admiral at this time gave orders to Captain de Weert to go back +in his boat to the Bay of Knights, to remove the tablet to a more +convenient situation. When about to double the point of the bay +on this errand, de Weert saw eighty savages sitting on the shore, +having eight or nine canoes beside them; and, as soon as the +savages saw the boat, they set up a dismal noise, inviting the +Dutch to land, by means of signs. But, having only a small number +of men, de Weert turned back towards the ships; on which the +savages ran across the woods along shore, always hallowing, and +making signs for the Dutch to land. When the general was informed +of this adventure, he dispatched three boats well armed on shore, +but the savages were not to be seen, though they had left their +marks behind them, having dug up the interred body of a Dutchman, +and left his body on the ground, barbarously disfigured. On going +to the knights tablet, the Dutch also found it had been broken by +the savages.</p> + +<p>Early in the night of the 3d September, they got out from the +Straits of Magellan into the South Sea, with a fair wind, and +continued their voyage to the W.N.W. with the wind at N.E. till +the 7th, having all that time fine weather. This day, however, +the sea began to swell and rise so high, that the vice-admiral +had to lie to and hoist his boat on board, which was likewise +done by the Fidelity. While de Weert was sailing directly in the +wake of the admiral, who led the fleet, an accident happened on +board the yacht, which had the wind of the Fidelity, which +obliged both the Faith and the Fidelity, the former being de +Weert's ship, to furl their sails, and lie to for assisting the +yacht. The admiral continued his course, thinking that the other +ships continued to follow him, and that the fog prevented them +from being seen by the watch. The vice-admiral also was obliged +to furl his sails shortly after, the fog being so thick as to +prevent them from seeing each other, though very near.</p> + +<p>On the 8th the two yachts lost sight of the ships, but these +three kept company all that day; and next day the whole fleet +rejoined to their great joy. After joining, Derick Geritz sent +the Postillion to the admiral, to request the assistance of his +carpenters; but they were sick, and those from the Faith and +Fidelity went on board the yacht. This proved afterwards a +serious loss to these ships, as they never got their carpenters +back. The wind shifted all of a sudden, and the sea became so +rough and stormy that the yacht had to furl her sails, as was +done by the vice-admiral, who was ahead of the Faith, and by the +Fidelity. In the ensuing night the yacht and vice-admiral made +sail again, without advertising the other two ships by signal, so +that they continued to lie to. When day broke next morning, +Captains Baltazar de Cordes and Sebalt de Weert, of the Fidelity +and Faith, were extremely troubled at not seeing any of the other +ships. De Weert, who was now the senior captain, was also much +troubled by the unprovided state of his ship, having no master, +only two old pilots, and a very small number of seamen, mostly +sick and weak through the cold and damp weather, though they kept +a fire burning night and day.</p> + +<p>The N.E. wind became so violent on the 16th September, that +the two ships were every moment in danger of sinking. The gallery +of the Faith was rent open above an inch, and the sea broke so +violently over the Fidelity, that her men were almost constantly +up to their knees in water. She likewise sprung a leak, owing to +which they were forced to keep her pumps constantly going day and +night, yet could hardly keep her afloat. At last, after much +search, the leak was found and stopt. In this deplorable +situation these two ships remained for twenty-four hours, +<i>spooning</i> under bare poles. The seamen also became much +dissatisfied, though allowed two ounces of dried fish a day to +each man, with a reasonable quantity of biscuit. But they were +much discontented with this scanty allowance, having been used in +the straits to fill themselves with muscles, of which they could +not now brook the want, so that the captains had much ado to +pacify them.</p> + +<p>In the night of the 26th September they fell in with the land +to the north of the straits by mistake, thinking themselves to +have been twenty leagues from the land; and in the morning the +Faith was in great danger, as the wind drifted her towards the +coast, on which were two rocks, which they avoided with the +utmost difficulty. The Fidelity, which was a considerable way in +front, had discovered the rocks in time, and had easily given +them a wide birth. They were only three leagues from the straits +when they fell in with the land; and as the westerly wind now +blew so hard that they were unable to bear up against it, the two +captains now resolved to regain the straits, and to wait there in +some safe road or bay for a fair wind, when they did not doubt of +rejoining the other ships, as it had been agreed to wait at the +island of St. Mary on the coast of Chili for two months, in case +of separation. About evening, therefore, of the 27th September, +they arrived at the southern point of the straits' mouth, and +were drifted by the current six or seven leagues within the +straits, where they anchored in a very good road.</p> + +<p>SECTION 3. <i>Incidents during their second Residence in the +Straits of Magellan</i>.</p> + +<p>From the 27th to the 30th of September they had tolerably good +weather, but the wind then began to blow so furiously from the +S.W. that they were forced to drop three anchors a-piece to keep +them from being driven on shore. As the summer of these antarctic +regions was now approaching, they were in hopes of fair weather; +yet during two months that they remained in the straits, they +scarcely had a fair day in which to dry their sails. For twenty +days that they remained in this bay, to which they gave the name +of the <i>Bay of Trouble</i>, they endured incredible hardships, +being forced to go on shore daily in search of a few birds, +which, with muscles and snails found upon the rocks, formed their +sorry subsistence. Being unable to subsist any longer in that +bay, they set sail on the 18th October, and found a better bay +about a league farther within the straits. The 22d they were +nearly destroyed by a violent storm, but the weather became calm +next day. The constant employment of the seamen was to go on +shore in search of muscles for their sustenance at low water, and +when the tide was in to fetch wood and fresh water, so that they +had no time to dry themselves, though they kept up a good fire +continually. In short, during the whole nine months spent in +these straits, now and formerly, they scarcely had an opportunity +once to dry their sails, so frequent were the returns of rain and +storms. The men also were exposed to wet, cold, and high winds, +which kept them continually uncomfortable, and always at work. +The seamen now began to murmur, alleging there would not be +enough of biscuit for their return to Holland, if they remained +here any longer. Having notice of this, de Weert went into the +bread-room, as if to examine their store; and, on coming out, he +declared, with a cheerful countenance, there was enough of +biscuit and other provisions for eight months, though in fact +there was not more than sufficient for four.</p> + +<p>At length, on the 2d December, the wind changed to the N.E. +and they immediately weighed anchor, but could not get out into +the South Sea, owing to whirlwinds rising from between the high +hills and the bottom of the bay. The Faith was driven at one time +so near the shore that a person might have stepped ashore from +her gallery, and had certainly been lost if the wind had not +abated. Next day, the storm being over, the two ships got out of +Close bay, as they called it, with the ebb, but they never +afterwards anchored together, and that day they cast anchor at +the distance of a league from each other. The 8th of December +they had a more violent storm than ever, which lasted two days, +and during which the waves rose sometimes higher than the masts. +The storm abating on the 10th, de Weert went in his boat, +intending to go aboard the Fidelity; but on doubling the point +which lay between them, was overwhelmed with grief to see no +ship, nor any signs of shipwreck, so that he thought she had +foundered. Going next day farther towards a gulf, he was rejoiced +to see a mast behind a low point, where he found the Fidelity, +with which ship he had to leave his small boat to assist in +fishing for her anchors and cables, which she had lost in the +late storm. He then took his leave, returning to his own ship, +little dreaming he had taken his last farewell of Captain de +Cordes.</p> + +<p>The 10th, going ashore in the boat for victuals as usual, and +having doubled a point, they saw three canoes with savages, who +went immediately on shore, and scrambled up the mountains like +monkeys. The Dutch examined the canoes, in which were only a few +young divers, some wooden grapnels, skins of beasts, and other +things of no value. Going on shore to see if the savages had left +any thing, they found a woman and two children, who endeavoured +to run away, but was taken and carried on board, shewing few +signs of fear or concern. She was of a middle size and reddish +colour, with a big belly, a fierce countenance, and her hair +close cut as if shaven, whereas the men wear their hair long. She +had a string of snail-shells about her neck by way of ornament, +and a seal's skin on her shoulders, tied round her neck with a +string of gut. The rest of her body was quite naked, and her +breasts hung down like the udders of a cow. Her mouth was very +wide, her legs crooked, and her heels very long.</p> + +<p>This female savage would not eat any of their boiled or +roasted meats, so they gave her one of the birds they had found +in the canoes. Having pluckt off the long feathers, she opened it +with a muscle shell, cutting in the first place behind the right +wing, and then above the stomach. After that, drawing out the +guts, she laid the liver a short time on the fire, and eat it +almost raw. She then cleaned the gizzard, which she eat quite +raw, as she did the body of the bird. Her children eat in the +same manner, one being a girl of four years of age, and the other +a boy, who, though only six months old, had most of his teeth, +and could walk alone.[90] The woman looked grave and serious at +her meal, though the seamen laughed heartily at her strange +figure, and unusual mode of feeding. She afterwards sat down on +her heels like an ape; and she slept all gathered up in a heap, +with her infant between her arms, having her breast in his mouth. +After keeping her two days on board, de Weert set her on shore, +giving her a gown and cap, with necklace and bracelets of glass +beads. He gave her also a small mirror, a knife, a nail, an awl, +and a few other toys of small value, with which she seemed much +pleased. He cloathed the boy also, and decorated him with glass +beads of all colours; but carried the girl to Holland, where she +died. The mother seemed much concerned at parting with her +daughter, yet went into the boat without resistance or noise. She +was carried to the shore, a league west from the ship, to a place +which she pointed out, where the seamen found a fire and some +utensils, which made the seamen believe that the savages had run +away on seeing the boat.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 90: They had no means to ascertain his age, +and must have concluded him only six months old from his small +size; but from his teeth and walking alone, he was more likely to +have been two years old, and his diminutive size was probably +occasioned by the miseries of the climate, and wretchedness of +every kind to which these outcasts of nature are +subjected.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>When the boat returned, a new storm arose, during which the +waves often overtopped the masts, and tossed the ship so +violently that they momentarily expected she would have been +overset or split in pieces; but, by the blessing of God, she got +out of this bay, to which they gave the name of <i>Unfortunate +Bay</i>. Next day they cast anchor towards evening in the channel +of the straits, but finding the anchor had no buoy attached, and +the weather being too violent to allow of supplying one, they had +again to weigh, and put before the wind, and at length got into +the bay of Cordes, fourteen or fifteen leagues farther eastwards, +near the middle of the straits. In this passage they kept as near +as possible to the south side of the channel, that they might be +seen by the Fidelity, and even fired a gun off the mouth of a bay +in which they supposed she lay, as a signal, to which they +imagined that they heard another gun in answer from their +consort, and continued their course in the full belief of being +followed by the Fidelity. In this passage the strength of the +wind drove them so fast, that they had to fasten their boat +astern with two strong hawsers to preserve her, and to diminish +the velocity of their course; but the heavy rolling waves broke +both hawsers, and they lost their boat, by which they were +reduced to great difficulty, having now no means of getting on +shore in search of provisions.</p> + +<p>Next day, being the 16th December, they saw a boat making +towards them from the westwards, which occasioned various +conjectures; but at length turned out to belong to the fleet of +Van Noort. This unexpected meeting gave great joy to the seamen, +and the men in this boat were received with much respect by de +Weert. They were all in perfect health and vigour; and, among +other things respecting their voyage, told of having caught above +2000 birds at the great Penguin Island. This intelligence made +the sailors in the Faith extremely anxious to get there, and +several of them were bold enough to tell Captain de Weert, that +it was necessary they should go there, where they might as well +wait for a fair wind as in any other place, and besides, that it +was only a league out of their way. But de Weert declared he +would on no account part company from Van Noort. This general +came in person next day to visit de Weert; and the day following, +being the 18th December, the whole fleet joined him. The wind +changing to S.W. on the 22d, they all set sail; and after +proceeding two or three hours, de Weert requested the loan of a +boat from general Van Noort, with three or four men, that he +might go before to direct Captain de Cordes to get ready to sail +with the fleet; but he could not find the Fidelity.</p> + +<p>The Faith was now grown very foul, and unable consequently to +keep up with the fleet; for which reason, being off the Bay of +Knights, where she met the ebb current, she was forced to go in +there. The 23d she was again opposed by adverse currents in a +narrow channel, and unable to follow the other ships. The 24th +they tried again, but were unable to get round a point, behind +which the fleet of Van Noort lay at anchor; and finding it +impossible to double that point with the present wind, de Weert +resolved to wait till it changed, that he might not fatigue his +men by persisting in vain attempts. But, although the wind was +contrary, Van Noort proceeded farther on, in search of a more +secure anchorage, by which de Weert lost sight of the fleet, +though not far off, in consequence of an intervening high point +of land.</p> + +<p>Despairing of being able to rejoin the fleet of Van Noort, and +finding it impossible to subsist his men without a boat, de Weert +ordered the pieces of one which were in the hold to be taken out, +that they might be put together. This was on the 25th December; +but having the wind at north next day, he attempted to get next +day into a small bay, a league farther on than the Bay of +Knights, in which the boat might be more conveniently built: but +the violence of the wind forced him back into the Bay of Cordes, +five leagues farther to the east. Here, on the 26th and 27th, +they endured so great a storm, that the seamen began to murmur +again, as having been a whole fortnight without procuring any +muscles, having nothing to subsist upon in all that time but a +scanty allowance of biscuit and oil. Seeing their insolence, de +Weert called them into the cabin, giving them good words, and +even desired their advice as to what was best to be done in this +difficult conjuncture. Some were of opinion, that they should +proceed to Rio de la Plata in the boat, abandoning their ship, +and give themselves up to the Spaniards. Others were for going to +St Helena in quest of provisions. The pilot, John Outgetz, was +for going to Guinea or the Gold Coast of Africa, where he was +known, having made five voyages there. None of these opinions +pleased de Weert, who told them, that he could not come to any +determination without the consent of Captain de Cordes.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, the boat being now ready, de Weert went +ashore in her on the 1st January, 1600, to get her properly +caulked. In the afternoon, having doubled the southerly point, +two boats were seen, which belonged to Van Noort, who had put +back to the Bay of Knights in search of the Faith. Next day, Van +Noort returned back, promising to make search for the Fidelity. +De Weert also sent his boat, with his ensign and one of his +pilots, on the same search, and gave them a letter for Van Noort, +requesting a supply of biscuit sufficient for two months. The +boat came back on the 5th with the general's answer, saying, That +he was not sure of having enough of biscuit for his own men, +neither knew he how long he might be at sea, and therefore could +not spare any. This answer afflicted de Weert; and having now no +hopes of being again rejoined by de Cordes, he resolved to +proceed for Penguin Island, to lay in a large store of these +birds, and then to follow the fleet of Van Noort, if the wind +proved fair. Before sailing, he wrote a letter for de Cordes, +which he left buried at the foot of a tree, and nailed a board to +the tree, on which was painted, <i>Look at the bottom of this +tree</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 11th January, 1600, de Weert made sail for Penguin +Islands, and next day came to anchor under the smaller of these +islands, where he immediately landed with thirty-eight men in +tolerable health, leaving the pilots and other seamen on board. +Leaving three men to keep the boat, the rest fell to killing +birds, of which there were a prodigious quantity in the island. +In the mean time the wind grew nigh and the sea very stormy, by +which the boat was thrown so high upon the rocks, and so filled +with water, that the boat-keepers were unable to get her off, or +to heave out the water, and so much tossed by the surges that +they expected every minute to have her stove to pieces. In this +extremity the seamen were almost in despair. Without the boat it +was impossible for them to return on board. They had no +carpenters, no tools, and no wood, with which to repair their +boat, as there was no wood whatever on the island. They were all +wet, as they had waded into the water as high as their shoulders +to draw the boat from the rocks, and they were starving with +cold. Fortunately, at low water, the boat being aground, they +recovered an axe and some tools, with a few nails, which revived +their hopes of being able to get back to the ship. But as it was +impossible to get the boat drawn ashore before night for repairs, +they were obliged to pass the night on shore in the open air, +where they made a fire of some broken planks from the boat, and +eat some birds half-roasted, without bread, and with so little +water that they could not quench their thirst.</p> + +<p>As soon as day appeared on the 13th, every one went cheerfully +to work, in repairing that side of the boat which was most +injured, which was quite refitted before night. Next day the +other side was repaired; and having loaded her with 450 penguins, +they went aboard on the evening of the 14th, having been three +days on shore. While they were catching penguins on the 12th, +they found a savage woman, who had hid herself in one of the +holes. At the time when Van Noort landed here, there was a band +of savages on the island, by whom two of his men were slain; in +revenge of which Van Noort had destroyed them all but this woman, +who was then wounded, and who now shewed her wounds to the +seamen. She was tall and well-made; her hair cut quite close to +her head, and her face painted, having a kind of cloak on her +body, made of the skins of beasts and birds, neatly sewed +together, and reaching down to her knees, besides which she had a +skin apron; so that the savages on the north side of these +straits appear to be more modest in their apparel than those on +the south side. By the dead body of one of these savages, who had +been slain by Van Noort, it appeared that the men wore their hair +very long; besides which his head was ornamented with fine +feathers, and he had others round his body. They use bows and +arrows, the arrows being very neatly pointed with hard flints. De +Weert gave this woman a knife, who informed him by signs, that he +would find a greater plenty of birds in the larger island. They +left her where she was, though she requested, by signs, to be +transported to the continent. They now went to the larger island, +in order to get a larger supply of birds.</p> + +<p>The old penguins weigh from twelve to sixteen pounds, and the +young ones from eight to twelve. They are black on the back, with +white bellies, and some have a white ring round their necks, so +that they are almost half white half black. Their skin is much +like that of a seal, and as thick as the skin of a wild boar. The +bill is as long as that of a raven, but not so crooked; the neck +short and thick, and the body as long as that of a goose, but not +so thick. Instead of wings, they have only two fins or pinions, +covered with feathers, which hang down as they walk upright, and +by means of which they swim with great strength. They have black +feet, like those of a goose, and they walk upright, with their +fins or pinions hanging down like the arms of a man, so that when +seen at a distance they look like so many pigmies. They seldom +come ashore except in the breeding season, and then they nestle +together, three or four in one hole, which they dig in the downs +as deep as those of rabbits, and the ground is so full of them, +that one is liable almost at every step to sink into them up to +the knees. They feed entirely on fish, yet their flesh has not +that rank fishy taste which is so common in sea-fowl, but is +extraordinarily well tasted. <i>Penguin</i>, the name of this +bird, is not derived from the Latin <i>pinguedo</i>, fatness, as +the Dutch author of this voyage would have it, and therefore +spells the word <i>pinguin</i>. Neither is the conjecture of the +French editor of this voyage better founded, who supposes they +were so called by the English from a Welsh word signifying +<i>white-head</i>; and from which it has been argued that these +savages are descended from a colony of Britons, supposed to have +settled in America, about the year 1170, under Madoc, prince of +North Wales. The truth is, the name of penguin was given to these +birds by the savages.</p> + +<p>The ship reached the greater Penguin Island on the 15th +January, that island being a league from the small one; and here +they found such abundance of these birds, that many ships might +have been amply supplied by them instead of one, for they +procured above 900 of them in less than two hours. Next day, +while busy in salting the penguins, a heavy storm came on from +the N.W. by which the ship was driven out of sight of the island, +and to so great a distance that de Weert lost hopes of getting +back to it again; on which he reduced the men to an allowance of +four ounces of biscuit daily. They got back however on the 17th; +but, when going to land, a fresh storm came on with such +violence, that they resolved to weigh anchor and get out of the +straits: but the sea was so rough that they durst not attempt +this, lest the capstan should fly round. At last the anchor lost +its hold; and to save the ship from being cast away, they had to +cut the cable and make sail, being in great sorrow for the loss +of their anchor, as they now had one only remaining.</p> + +<p>SECTION 4. <i>Voyage from the Straits to Holland</i>.</p> + +<p>This sad accident constrained de Weert to quit the straits, +which he did on the 21st January, having a S.W. wind, chopping +sometimes round to E.N.E. having now spent nine months in those +seas, in a dangerous and dismal condition. In the afternoon of +that day, having got into the main sea, they allowed their boat +to go adrift, being rendered quite unserviceable by the late +storms. The 24th in the morning, they found three small islands +to windward, not marked in any maps, which they named the +<i>Sebaldine Islands</i>. These are in lat. 50° 40' S. sixty +leagues from the continent,[91] and contained abundance of +penguins; but they could not catch any, having no boat. On the +1st February, a seaman was condemned to be hanged, for having +stolen a bottle of wine and a bag of rice from the hold; and, +when just about to be turned off, he was pardoned at the +intercession of the crew, on condition that they should not again +beg the life of any one found guilty of stealing provisions. In +the evening of the 3d the same person was found drunk, and +consequently must have again stolen wine, and was convicted of +having stolen both wine and victuals, for which he was now +hanged, and his body thrown into the sea.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 91: In vol. VIII. p. 68, note 3, these +Sebaldines have been already noticed as the north-westermost of +the Falklands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They passed the line on the 15th March; and their wine being +now reduced to one pipe, that was reserved for the use of the +sick, and no more was allowed to the crew. The 28th they saw Cape +Monte on the coast of Guinea, when the captain was much +displeased with the pilots, for having steered a different course +from what he had directed. The seamen also were discontented with +the captain, who would not land, because he had no boat, and only +one anchor: but, being satisfied that he had biscuit enough for +four months, at a quarter of a pound daily to each man, and two +ounces of rice, he made the ship's head be turned to seawards. In +the night of the 1st April, they discovered some fire at a +distance, thinking it were a ship; but when day broke, it was +known to have been on the shore, towards which they had been +insensibly driven by the current. By this time their whole stock +of penguins was expended, and they must have been reduced to a +very small allowance of biscuit and rice for their whole +sustenance, but during five weeks that they steered along the +coast of Africa, making very little progress in consequence of +calms, they caught abundance of many kinds of fish, both large +and small. Being uncertain how long they might remain on the +coast, and fearing the want of provisions, de Weert ordered a +small boat to be built by the pilot, who had been bred a +ship-carpenter. This boat was finished in twelve days; but they +had no need of her, for the wind became fair on the 24th April, +and they made sail in the direction of the Açores.</p> + +<p>The 3d May was held as a day of thanksgiving and prayer; and +on the 21st they passed the tropic of Cancer, catching every +where such abundance of fish, that, besides supplying their +immediate wants, they salted and dried a considerable store. On +getting near the Açores, they found no more fish, and had +to use those they had dried and salted; and by this food many +distempers were produced among them, particularly the scurvy. The +men became as it were parched within, and so thirsty that they +could not be satisfied with drink; and their bodies were covered +all over with red spots, like a leprosy. The 7th, the captain was +informed that some of the men had stolen biscuit; but he durst +not punish the guilty, as they were the only vigorous and healthy +men in the ship, and nothing could be done without them.</p> + +<p>The ship got into the English Channel on the 6th July, when +the captain landed at Dover to purchase an anchor and cable; but +not being able to procure any, he sailed again that night. On the +13th, while off the mouth of the Maese, waiting the tide, and +having a pilot on board, the wind came suddenly contrary, and +forced him into the channel of Goeree, where a seaman died, being +the sixty-ninth who died during the voyage. The thirty-six who +remained alive gave thanks to God, who had preserved them through +so many dangers, and had vouchsafed to bring them home.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-5" id="chapter4-5">CHAPTER V.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE OF GEORGE SPILBERGEN ROUND THE WORLD, IN +1614--1617.[92]</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage, from Holland to the South +Sea</i>.</p> + +<p>As the directors of the Dutch East-India Company were still +anxious to make trial of the route to India by the Straits of +Magellan, they appointed George Spilberg, or Spilbergen, to make +this attempt in 1614, as admiral of six ships, the Great Sun, the +Full Moon, the Huntsman, and a yacht called the Sea-mew, all +belonging to Amsterdam, with the Eolus of Zealand, and the +Morning-star belonging to Rotterdam. Spilbergen was a person of +established reputation for knowledge and experience, and was +allowed to chuse most of his officers. The ships were all +equipped in the best possible manner, and were ready a little +after Midsummer; but as the admiral was of opinion that they +would arrive in the Straits of Magellan at an improper season, if +they sailed so early, the directors thought proper to postpone +the commencement of the voyage till the month of August.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 92: Harris, I. 44. Callender, II. +191.]</blockquote> + +<p>The fleet sailed accordingly from the Texel on the 8th of +August, 1614, with a strong gale at S.E. Without any remarkable +accident, except several severe storms, they reached the latitude +of Madeira on the 3d October. Proceeding thence by the Canaries, +they lost sight of these islands on the 10th, and came in view of +Brava and Fogo, two of the Cape de Verd islands, on the 23d. +Having happily passed the <i>Abrolhos</i>, dangerous shoals +running far out to sea, on the 9th December, they discovered the +coast of Brazil on the 12th of that month. On the 19th they were +off the bay of Rio de Janeiro; and on the morning of the 20th +they anchored in the road of <i>Ilas Grandes</i>, between two +large fine islands covered with trees, in thirteen fathoms water. +Next day they anchored at another island, about half a league +distant, where they caught good store of fish, besides many +crocodiles or alligators, each about the length of a man. They +anchored behind another island on the 23d, where they found two +small huts, and a heap of human bones on a rock. Here they set up +tents on shore for their sick, which were all landed that night, +under the protection of three distinct guards of soldiers, lest +they might be attacked by the Portuguese, who were at no great +distance.</p> + +<p>The 28th, the boats were sent for wood and fresh water to a +river about two leagues from where the ships lay, and about noon +next day brought off as much as they could carry. They went back +for a farther supply, and were obliged to remain on shore all +night, as their boats got aground with the ebb-tide. On getting +to the ships on the 29th, they reported, that they had heard a +confused sound of voices, as of many people, in the woods. The +30th, three boats were sent again to the watering-place, with +nine or ten soldiers to protect the seamen when on shore. Shortly +after, being out of sight of the fleet, several cannon-shot were +heard from the Huntsman, which had been stationed to command the +watering-place, on which the admiral sent three armed boats to +see what was the matter. On coming to the Huntsman, they were +told that five canoes, full of well-armed Portuguese and Mestees, +had attacked the three boats, and slain all their men. The Dutch +armed boats pursued the canoes, of which they soon came in sight; +but on following them round a point, saw two stout frigates or +armed barks riding at anchor, to which the canoes retired for +protection, and the boats had to return to the admiral with the +dismal news of the fate of their companions.</p> + +<p>A conspiracy was discovered on the 1st January, 1615, of +certain persons who proposed to have run away with one of the +ships, and for which two men were executed, several others being +put in irons, and distributed among the other ships of the fleet. +Before leaving this place, orders were given, if any ship lost +company of the rest, that her commander was to set up a +conspicuous mark in the haven of de Cordes, or some other usual +landing place in the straits; and, after waiting a certain fixed +time, was to proceed for the isle of Mocha on the coast of Chili, +as the place of rendezvous. Having no fit provisions for the +sick, they resolved also to remove from the Islas Grandes to the +isle of St Vincent. Here they were delayed by the Portuguese, who +appear to have captured some of their men; for, having taken a +bark with eighteen Portuguese on the 26th January, the Portuguese +of St Vincent refused to give a smaller number of Hollanders in +exchange for these, though also offered many fair manuscripts, +pictures, plate, and other things belonging to the jesuits, which +had been taken in the prize.</p> + +<p>They departed from St Vincent in the beginning of February, +having first burnt their prize and some buildings on shore, and +furnished themselves amply with oranges and pomecitrons. In lat. +52° 6' S. they were distressed by a severe storm on the 7th +March, which continued several days, and separated the ships. On +the 21st a mutiny broke out, for which several of the most +notoriously guilty were capitally punished. They entered the +straits on the 28th, but were forced out again, by adverse winds +and currents. They entered again on the 2d of April, and saw a +man of gigantic stature climbing a high hill on the southern +shore of the straits, called <i>Terra del Fuego</i>, or the land +of fire. They went ashore on the 7th, when they saw two +ostriches, and found a large river of fresh water, beside which +grew many shrubs producing sweet black-berries. Being in lat. +54° S. the mountains were all covered with snow, yet they +found pleasant woods, in which were many parrots. To one inlet or +bay they gave the name of <i>Pepper haven</i>, because the bark +of a tree found there had a biting taste like pepper.</p> + +<p>On the 16th of April they had some friendly intercourse with a +party of savages, to whom they gave various trifling articles in +exchange for pearls. But on the 1st May, some of the people were +surprised by the natives while on shore, and two of them slain. +On the 6th of May they got into the South Sea, not without +terror, having no anchorage that day, and being in much danger +from many shoals and islands at the mouth of the straits, between +the northern and sourthern shore.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Transactions in the South Sea, along the Western Coast of +America</i>.</p> + +<p>They were welcomed into the great South Sea by a terrible +storm, and were fearful of being cast away on certain islands a +little without the straits, which, from their likeness to the +islands of Scilly, they named the <i>Sorlings</i>. On the 21st +they had sight of the coast of Chili and the isle of Mocha. This +island is low and broad on the north, and is full of rocks on the +south. The 26th endeavours were made to enter into traffic with +the natives of this island. The chief and his son dined on board +the admiral, seemingly rejoiced to see such large and well-armed +ships sent against the Spaniards, and all the native Chilese were +delighted to see the soldiers mustered and exercised. The Dutch +here procured great plenty of sheep, in exchange for hatchets and +ornaments of coral and such like toys, getting two sheep for one +hatchet. But the natives brought every thing to the boats, and +would not suffer any of the Dutch to go near their houses, being +very jealous of their wives, even more so than Spaniards. These +sheep resembled camels, having long legs and necks, hare lips, +hunches on their backs, and are used as beasts of draught and +burden.</p> + +<p>They left Mocha on the 27th of May, and next day came to the +coast not far from the island of St Mary, where the land was much +broken and very rocky. The 29th they cast anchor at the island of +St Mary, whence a Spaniard came on board, having a pledge left +for him ashore. This man invited the admiral and others to dine +on shore; but one of the boats observed a body of soldiers +marching to the place at which they were to have dined; on which +appearance of treachery, the Spanish messenger was made prisoner. +The Dutch landed next day in force, on which the Spaniards set +their church on fire and fled; having four of their men slain, +while two of the Dutch were wounded. They here found much +poultry, and took 500 sheep, with other spoil. Learning at this +place of three Spanish ships fitted out in April expressly +against them, the admiral of which carried forty brass guns, and +the whole manned by 1000 Spaniards, Spilbergen resolved to go in +search of them at Conception and Valparaiso, and afterwards on +the coast of Arica. A farther squadron, of similar force, was +also said to be in preparation at <i>Calao de Lima</i>. In +consequence of this intelligence, the Dutch gunners were ordered +to have every thing in readiness for battle, rules of military +discipline were established, and each ship and every person +received distinct orders for conducting the expected battle, in +which it was resolved to conquer or die.</p> + +<p>Sailing from the island of St Mary on the 1st June, 1615, they +passed not far from the town of <i>Aurora</i>,[93] where the +Spaniards kept a garrison of 500 men, which were continually +disquieted by the unconquered natives of Chili. On the 3d they +came to the island of <i>Quinquirina</i>, within which is the +town of Conception, inhabited by many Indians and about 200 +Spaniards. The 12th they entered the safe and commodious road of +Valparaiso, in which was a Spanish ship, but which was set on +fire by its own mariners, who escaped on shore. The 13th at noon, +they were in lat. 32° 15' S.[94] and in the afternoon came +into the fair and secure harbour of Quintero. Here they took in +wood and water, and caught abundance of fish. But they found the +inhabitants every where aware of them, and prepared to receive +them, so that nothing of any importance could be effected. They +came next to <i>Arica</i> in lat. 12° 40' S.[95] to which +place the silver is brought from the mines of Potosi, whence it +is shipped for Panama. Finding no ships there, they proceeded +along the coast, and took a small ship on the 16th, in which was +some treasure, but it was mostly embezzled by the sailors.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 93: Arauco, a fortress on the northern +frontier of the independent country of Araucania, but somewhat +inland, not far to the N.E. of the island of St +Mary.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 94: Quintero is in lat. 32° 44' +S.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 95: This is a great error, as Arica is in +lat 18° 28' S.]</blockquote> + +<p>They soon after had sight of eight ships, which the master of +the prize said were the royal fleet sent out in search of the +Hollanders, contrary to the opinion of the council of Peru; but +Dou Rodrigo de Mendoza, the Spanish admiral, a kinsman to the +viceroy, insisted on putting to sea, alleging that two even of +his ships could take all England, and much more those <i>hens</i> +of Holland, who must be spent and wasted by so long a voyage, and +would assuredly yield at first sight. On this, the viceroy gave +him leave to depart, with orders to bring all the Hollanders in +chains. Mendoza then swore that he would never return till the +Hollanders were all taken or slain, and set sail from Calao, the +haven of Lima, on the 11th July. The flag ship was the Jesu +Maria, of twenty-four brass guns and 460 men, which was said to +have cost the king 158,000 ducats. The vice-admiral was the Santa +Anna, of 300 men, commanded by Captain Alvarez de Piger, who had +before taken an English ship in the South Sea, and this ship cost +150,000 ducats, being the handsomest that had ever been seen in +Peru. The other ships were the Carmelite and St Jago of eight +brass cannon and 200 men each; the Rosary of four guns and 150 +men; the St Francis having seventy musketeers, and twenty +sailors, but no ordnance; the St Andrew of eighty musketeers, +twenty-five sailors, and no cannon; and an eighth, the name and +strength of which is not mentioned.</p> + +<p>The adverse fleets drew near on the evening of the 17th July, +when the Spanish vice-admiral sent a message to his admiral, +advising to postpone battle till next morning. Mendoza was, +however, too impatient to follow this advice, and set upon the +Great Sun, in which was Admiral Spilbergen, about ten that night, +when they exchanged broadsides. The St Francis being next to the +Jesu Maria, attacked the Dutch admiral; but being beaten off, +fell upon the yacht, and by her was sent to the bottom. At this +instant, the yacht was attacked by the Spanish admiral, and had +soon shared the fate of her former antagonist, but was succoured +by two boats full of men, one from the Dutch admiral, and the +other from the vice-admiral; on this occasion, the Dutch +admiral's boat was unfortunately mistaken by the Huntsman, and +sent to the bottom by a cannon-shot, and all her men drowned +except one.</p> + +<p>Next morning, five of the Spanish ships sent word to their +admiral that they meant to do their best to escape: But the Dutch +admiral and vice-admiral set upon the Spanish admiral and +vice-admiral, and an obstinate engagement ensued, in which the +Eolus, another of the Dutch ships, also partook. The two Spanish +ships were lashed together, for mutual support. At length, all +the men forsook the vice-admiral, going on board the admiral's +ship, in which they afterwards confessed they found only fifty +men alive. Being reduced to great distress, the Spanish seamen +several times hung out a white flag, in token of surrender, which +was as often hauled down by the officers and other gentlemen, who +chose rather to die than yield.</p> + +<p>After some time, being sore pressed by the Hollanders, the men +belonging to the Spanish vice-admiral returned to their own ship, +and renewed the fight; on which occasion the Dutch vice-admiral +was in imminent danger of being taken, as the Spaniards boarded +her, but were all repelled or slain. Being no longer able to +continue the fight, the Spanish admiral fled under cover of the +night, and escaped the pursuit of Spilbergen; but her leaks were +so many and great that she went to the bottom, as did likewise +another of the Spanish ships called the Santa Maria.[96] The +Dutch vice-admiral and the Eolus bestirred themselves so briskly, +that the Spanish vice-admiral hung out a white flag, on which the +Dutch vice-admiral sent two boats to bring the Spanish commander +on board, but he refused going that night, unless the Dutch +vice-admiral came to fetch him, or sent a captain to remain in +pledge for him. At this time ten or twelve of the men belonging +to the Eolus remained on board, contrary to orders, wishing to +have a first hand in the plunder. These men assisted the +Spaniards in their efforts to prevent the ship from sinking: But +all their labour being in vain, they shewed many lights, and +cried out aloud for help, which was too late of being sent, and +they went to the bottom. Next morning the Dutch sent out four +boats, which found thirty Spaniards floating on pieces of the +wreck, and crying out for mercy; which was shewn by the Dutch to +some of the chiefs, but the rest were left to the mercy of the +sea, several of them being even knocked on the head by the Dutch, +contrary to orders from their officers. Before this ship went +down her commander expired of his wounds. In this engagement +forty Dutchmen were wounded and sixteen slain, on board the +admiral, vice-admiral, and Eolus; and in the rest eighteen were +wounded and four slain.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 96: There is no such name in the list of +the Spanish fleet, so that we may suppose this to have been the +one formerly mentioned without a name.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Dutch now made sail for Calao de Lima, but were becalmed. +The 20th they passed by the island [St Lorenzo], and saw fourteen +ships in the haven, but could not get near for shoals. They went, +therefore, to the road of Calao in search of the Spanish admiral, +but learned afterwards at Payta that his ship had sunk. The +Spaniards fired upon them from the shore, and a ball of +thirty-six pounds weight had nearly sunk the Huntsman. They saw +also on shore a considerable army, commanded by the viceroy in +person, consisting of eight troops of horse and 4000 foot. Going +beyond reach of shot from the shore, the Dutch cast anchor off +the mouth of the haven, where they remained till the 25th of +July, expecting to capture some Spanish ships, but all that +appeared made their escape by superior sailing, except one bark +laden with salt and eighty jars of molasses.</p> + +<p>In regard that they were now on an enemy's coast, where they +had no opportunity of repairing their losses, orders were issued +by Spilbergen to act with great caution, in case of falling in +with the fleet of Panama, and especially to take care not to +separate from each other, which had much endangered them in the +late fight. It was also ordered, if any Spanish ship should +yield, that the Dutch captains and chief officers should on no +account leave their own ships, but should order the enemy to come +aboard them in their own boats. They sailed from Calao on the +27th of July, and came to the road of <i>Huarmey</i> in lat. +10° S. on the 28th. This is a pleasant place, with a large +port, near which is a lake. The Dutch landed here, but the +inhabitants fled, leaving little plunder, except poultry, hogs, +oranges, and meal, which they brought on board. They dismissed +some of their Spanish prisoners on the 3d August, on which day +they passed between the main and the island of <i>Lobos</i>, so +called from being frequented by seals, or sea wolves.[97] The 8th +they cast anchor near Payta, in about the latitude of 5° S. +The 9th they landed 300 men, but re-embarked after some +skirmishing, as they found the city too strongly defended. On +this occasion they took a Peruvian bark, strangely rigged, having +six stout natives on board, who had been out fishing for two +months, and had a cargo of excellent dried fish, which was +distributed through the fleet.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 97: There are three islands or groups of +that name off the coast of Peru. The southern Lobos is in lat. +7° S. near fifty miles from the nearest land; the middle, or +inner Lobos, in lat. 6° 22' S. is only about nine miles from +the coast of Peru; and the northern Lobos is in lat. 5° 8' S. +almost close to the shore. It is probably the middle or inner +Lobos that is meant in the text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 10th of August three of the Dutch ships battered the town +of Payta, and afterwards sent a party of armed men on shore, who +found the inhabitants had fled to the mountains with all their +valuables. The Dutch sent five of the Peruvian captives on shore +to endeavour to procure fruit, and to learn with more certainty +what had become of the Spanish admiral. On their return they +brought word that the Spanish admiral had gone to the bottom, six +only of her crew escaping. They brought letters also from the +lady of Don Gasper Calderon, the commandant of Payta, who had +fled to the town of St Michael, thirty miles from Payta; who, in +commiseration of the captives, sent many citrons and other +provisions to the Dutch ships. Towards the sea the town of Payta +is strongly fortified, and almost impregnable. It is a place of +some importance, having two churches, a monastery, and many good +buildings; and has an excellent harbour, to which many ships +resort from Panama, whence their cargoes are transmitted by land +to Lima, to avoid the dangers of the wind and the seas at that +place. While at the island of Lobos, the Dutch took two birds of +enormous size, not unlike an eagle in beak, wings, and talons; +their necks being covered with down resembling wool, and their +heads having combs like those of a cock. They were two ells in +height, and their wings, when displayed, measured three ells in +breadth.[98]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 98: Probably the Condour, or Vultur Gryphus +of naturalists, which is of vast size, sometimes measuring +sixteen feet between the tips of the wings when extended. + +<p>At this place we have omitted a vague rambling account of the +kingdoms of Peru and Chili, as in 1616, which could have conveyed +no useful information, farther than that Don Juan de Mendoza, +Marquis des Montes Claros, was then viceroy of Peru.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>The Dutch set sail from Payta on the 21st of August, and +anchored on the 23d in the road off the mouth of the Rio Tumbez, +in lat. 3° 20' S. They here agreed to return to the isle of +Coques, in lat. 5° S.[99] that they might endeavour to +procure refreshments. But they were so distressed by storms of +wind, with rain and excessive thunder, that they in vain +endeavoured to get to that island till the 13th September, and in +the mean time became very sickly. Proceeding therefore towards +the north they came in sight of New Spain on the 20th September, +in lat. 13° 30' N. when the weather became again very +tempestuous. After much bad weather they came in sight of a +pleasant land on the 1st October, but were unable to land. +Beating off and on till the 11th of that month, they then entered +the harbour of Accapulco, within shot of the castle, and hung out +a flag of truce. Two Spaniards came on board, with whom they +agreed to exchange their prisoners for sheep, fruits, and other +provisions, which was accordingly performed. On the 15th Melchior +Hernando, nephew to the viceroy of New Spain, came on board, to +take a view of the fleet which had vanquished that of his king, +and was kindly entertained by the Dutch admiral. The castle of +Accapulco was found to be well fortified, and had seventy pieces +of brass cannon mounted on its ramparts; and the Dutch were here +informed that their intended arrival had been known eight months +before.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 99: This is probably the northern Lobos, in +lat 5° 8' S. formerly mentioned in a note.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They set sail from Accapulco on the 18th of October, and soon +afterwards took a bark bound for the pearl fishery, which they +manned and took into their service as a tender. On the 1st +November they anchored before the port of <i>Selagua</i>, in lat. +19° 8' N. At this place they were informed of a river +abounding in a variety of excellent fish, and having extensive +meadows on its banks well stocked with cattle, together with +citrons and other fruits in great plenty, all of which they much +wanted; but the company they sent to endeavour to procure these +conveniences returned empty handed, after a smart engagement with +the Spaniards. They sailed thence on the 11th November for the +port of Nativity, in lat. 20° 40' N. where they furnished +themselves with necessaries, and from whence they set sail on the +20th.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Voyage Home from America, by the East Indies and Cape of +Good Hope</i>.</p> + +<p>The 26th November, 1615, being in lat. 20° 26' N. they +determined on shaping their course for the Ladrones across the +great Pacific Ocean. On the 3d December, to their great +astonishment, they saw two islands at a great distance, and next +day a vast rock in lat. 19° N. fifty leagues from the +continent of America.[100] The 5th they saw another new island, +having five hills, that at first appeared like so many distinct +islands. The new year 1616 was ushered in with distempers that +proved fatal to many of the sailors. On the 3d of January they +came in sight of the Ladrones, where they landed and procured +refreshments. Setting sail from thence on the 26th January, they +arrived at the Philippine islands on the 9th February, but the +Indians refused to trade with them, because enemies of the +Spaniards, though some among them, for that very reason, would +willingly have transferred all the trade and riches of the +country to them. In <i>Capul</i>, where they arrived on the 11th, +the people gave them fat hogs and poultry in exchange for mere +trifles. Having thus procured abundant refreshments, they set +sail on the 16th, passing through the straits towards the bay of +Manilla.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 100: The three Marias are nearly in the +indicated latitude, but are only about thirty leagues from the +western coast of N. America.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They anchored in these straits on the 19th, where they saw a +curious fabric erected on the top of trees, looking at a distance +like a palace, but they could not imagine what it was. The 24th +they passed the high and flaming hill of <i>Albaca</i>, and came +in sight of the other end of the straits [of St Bernardino] on +the 28th, when they anchored before the island, of +<i>Mirabelles</i>, remarkable for two rocks which tower to a vast +height in the air. Behind this island is the city of Manilla, and +here the pilots wait for the ships from China, to pilot them safe +to the city, as the passage is very dangerous. On the 5th of +March they took several barks, which were going to collect the +tribute paid by the adjacent places to the city of Manilla. They +had now intelligence of a fleet of twelve ships and four gallies, +manned by 2000 Spaniards besides Indians, Chinese, and Japanese, +sent from Manilla to drive the Dutch from the Moluccas, and to +reduce these islands under the dominion of Spain. On this news +they discharged all their prisoners, and resolved to go in +pursuit of the Manilla fleet.</p> + +<p>The 11th March they got into a labyrinth of islands, whence +they knew not how to get out, but their Spanish pilot carried +them safe through next day. The 14th they anchored all night +before the island of <i>Paney</i>, by reason of the shoals; and +on the 18th they sailed close past the island of Mindanao. The +19th they came again close to the shore, and brought provisions +from the islanders at a cheap rate. They reached Cape +<i>Cudera</i> on the 20th, where the Spaniards usually water on +their voyages to the Moluccas. Till the 23d, having a perfect +calm, they made no progress except with the tide; and when +between <i>Mindanao</i> and <i>Tagano</i> they were stopt by an +adverse current. The people here professed great enmity against +the Spaniards, and offered to assist the Dutch with fifty of +their vessels against that nation. The 27th they passed the +island of <i>Sanguin</i>, and came on the 29th to Ternate, in +which island the Dutch possessed the town of <i>Macia</i>, where +they were made most welcome by their countrymen. They observed +that the straits of <i>Booton</i> was full of shoals, without +which the water was deep. On the east there is good fresh water, +and two leagues to the west lies a very rocky shoal. On the 8th +of April, Cornelius de Vicaneze went for Banda, where the +soldiers were landed, after being long on board ship.</p> + +<p>Being detained in the Moluccas and at Bantam in the service of +the Dutch East India Company till the 14th December, 1616, +admiral Spilbergen then sailed from Bantam for Holland, in the +Amsterdam of 1400 tons, having also under his command the Zealand +of 1200 tons, leaving the ships with which he had hitherto sailed +in India. On the 1st January, 1617, the Zealand parted company, +and on the 24th of that month the Amsterdam anchored at the +island of Mauritius. They doubled the Cape of Good Hope on the +6th March, and arrived at St Helena on 30th of that month, where +they found the Zealand. Leaving that island on the 6th April, +they passed the line on the 24th of that month, and arrived safe +in Holland on the 1st July, 1617, having been absent two years, +ten months, and twenty-four days; nearly nine months of which +time were spent in India, without prosecuting the direct purpose +of their circumnavigation.</p> + +<p>The directors of the Dutch East India company bestowed the +highest commendations on Spilbergen for his prudence and good +conduct in this voyage, which contributed both to the advantage +of the company, his own reputation, and the glory of his country. +The Dutch company may be said to have dated their grandeur from +the day of his return, both in respect to reputation, power, and +riches; the former resulting from his successful circumnavigation +of the globe, and the others from their conquests in the +Moluccas, in which he not only assisted, but likewise brought +home the first intelligence. On his return to Holland, Spilbergen +confirmed the report of Magellan respecting a gigantic people +inhabiting the straits, named <i>Patagons</i>. He said that he +had gone several times on shore, and had examined several graves +of the natives, and saw several savages at different times in +their canoes, all of whom were of the ordinary size; or rather +under. But one day he observed a man on shore, who first climbed +one hill and then another, to look at the ships, and at last came +to the sea-side for that purpose, and this man was allowed by all +who saw him to be even taller than those spoken of by Magellan. +This is likewise confirmed by the accounts given to Van Noort and +De Weert, by a boy they took from the savages; who said there +were only two tribes of these giants, all the other savages being +of the ordinary size.[101]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 101: Without pretending to give any opinion +on this subject, it may be remarked, that the account from the +savage boy is worthy of little credit, as a kind of nursery tale, +and given by one who certainly could hardly have sufficient +language to express himself. The solitary giant seen looking at +the ships from a distance, may have been of the ordinary size, +magnified to the eye in looking through a hazy +atmosphere.--E.]</blockquote> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-6" id="chapter4-6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, IN 1615-1617, BY WILLIAM CORNELISON +SCHOUTEN AND JACQUES LE MAIRE, GOING ROUND CAPE HORN.[102]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>The States General of the United Provinces having granted an +exclusive privilege to the Dutch East India Company, prohibiting +all their subjects, except that company, from trading to the +eastwards beyond the Cape of Good Hope, or westwards through the +Straits of Magellan, in any of the countries within these limits, +whether known or unknown, and under very heavy penalties; this +prohibition gave great dissatisfaction to many rich merchants, +who were desirous of fitting out ships and making discoveries at +their own cost, and thought it hard that their government should +thus, contrary to the laws of Nature, shut up those passages +which Providence had left free. Among the number of these +discontented merchants was one Isaac Le Maire, a rich merchant of +Amsterdam, then residing at Egmont, who was well acquainted with +business, and had an earnest desire to employ a portion of the +wealth he had acquired in trade in acquiring fame as a +discoverer. With this view he applied to William Cornelison +Schouten of Horn, a man in easy circumstances, deservedly famous +for his great skill in maritime affairs, and his extensive +knowledge of trade in the Indies, having been thrice there in the +different characters of supercargo, pilot, and master.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 102: Harris, I.51. Callender, II. 217. + +<p>It is proper to remark, that in this and several of the +subsequent circumnavigations, considerable freedom has been taken +in abbreviating numerous trivial circumstances already noticed by +former voyagers: But whereever the navigators treat on new topics +of discovery, or other subjects of any importance, the narratives +are given at full length. Had not this liberty of lopping +redundancies been taken, this division of our collection must +have extended to a very inconvenient length, without any +corresponding advantage.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>The main question proposed to him by Le Maire was, Whether he +thought it possible to find a passage into the South Sea, +otherwise than by the Straits of Magellan; and if so, whether it +were not likely that the countries to the south of that passage +might afford as rich commodities as either the East or the West +Indies? Schouten was of opinion that such a passage might be +found, and gave several reasons as to the probable riches of +these countries.[103] After many conferences, they came to the +determination of attempting this discovery, under a persuasion +that the States did not intend, by their exclusive charter to the +East India Company, to preclude their subjects from discovering +countries in the south by a new route, different from either of +those described in the charter.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 103: The idea of rich countries is here +surely wrong stated, as none such could possibly be conceived to +the south of the Straits of Magellan. The expected rich countries +must have been to the westwards of these straits, and in the +tropical regions far to the north, in the hope of not trenching +upon the exclusive trade to the East Indies.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In consequence of this determination, it was agreed that Le +Maire should advance half of the necessary funds for the expence +of the proposed voyage, while Schouten and his friends were to +advance the other moiety. Accordingly Le Maire advanced his part +of the funds; and Schouten, with the assistance of Peter +Clementson, burgomaster of Horn, Jan Janson Molenwert, one of the +schepens or aldermen of that city, Jan Clementson Keis, a senator +of that city, and Cornelius Segetson, a merchant, produced the +rest. These matters being adjusted, in spring 1615, the company +proposed to equip two vessels, a larger and a less, to sail from +Horn at the proper season. That all parties might be satisfied, +it was agreed that William Cornelison Schouten, in consideration +of his age and experience, should command the larger ship, with +the entire direction of the navigation during the voyage; and +that Jaques le Maire, the eldest son of Isaac, should be +supercargo. Every thing was got ready in two months for the +prosecution of the enterprise, and a sufficient number of men +engaged as mariners: but, as secrecy was indispensable, they were +articled to go wherever the masters and supercargoes should +require; and, in consideration of such unusual conditions, their +wages were considerably advanced beyond the ordinary terms.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Journal of the Voyage from the Texel to Cape Horn</i>.</p> + +<p>The larger of the two vessels prepared for this voyage was the +Unity, of 360 tons, carrying nineteen cannon and twelve swivels; +having on board two pinnaces, one for sailing and another for +rowing, a launch for landing men, and a small boat, with all +other necessaries for so long a voyage. Of this vessel William +Cornelison Schouten was master and pilot, and Jaques le Maire +supercargo. The lesser vessel was named the Horn, of 110 tons, +carrying eight cannons and four swivels, of which Jan Cornelison +Schouten was master, and Aris Clawson supercargo. The crew of the +Unity consisted of sixty-five men, and that of the Horn of +twenty-two only. The Unity sailed on the 25th of May for the +Texel, where the Horn also arrived on the 3d June.</p> + +<p>The proper season being now arrived, in their judgment, they +sailed from the Texel on the 14th of June, and anchored in the +Downs on the 17th, when William Schouten went ashore at Dover to +hire an experienced English gunner. This being effected, they +again set sail the same evening; and meeting a severe storm in +the night between the 21st and 22d, they took shelter under the +Isle of Wight. Sailing thence on the 25th, they arrived at +Plymouth on the 27th, where they hired a carpenter named +Muydenblick. Sailing finally from Plymouth on the 28th June, with +the wind at N.E. and fair weather, they proceeded on their +voyage.</p> + +<p>Distinct rules were now established in regard to the allowance +of provisions at sea, so that the men might have no reason to +complain, and the officers might be satisfied of having enough +for the voyage. The rate fixed upon was, a cann of beer for each +man daily; four pounds of biscuit, with half a pound of butter +and half a pound of suet weekly; and five large Dutch cheeses for +each man, to serve during the whole voyage. All this was besides +the ordinary allowance of salt meat and stock-fish. Due orders +were likewise issued for regulating the conduct of the men and +officers. Particularly on all occasions of landing men in a +warlike posture, one of the masters was always to command: and in +such ports as they might touch at for trade, the supercargo was +to go on shore, and to have the exclusive management of all +commercial dealings. It was also enjoined, that every officer +should be exceedingly strict in the execution of his duty, but +without subjecting the men to any unnecessary hardships, or +interfering with each other in their several departments. The +officers were also warned against holding any conversation with +the men, in regard to the objects of the voyage, all conjectures +respecting which were declared fruitless, the secret being solely +known to the first captain and supercargo. It was also declared, +that every embezzlement of stores, merchandises, or provisions, +should be severely punished; and, in case of being reduced upon +short allowance, any such offence was to be punished with death. +The two supercargoes were appointed to keep distinct journals of +all proceedings, for the information of the company of +adventurers, that it might appear how far every man had done his +duty, and in what manner the purposes of the voyage had been +answered.</p> + +<p>On the 11th July they had sight of Madeira, and on the 13th +they passed through between Teneriff and Grand Canary, with a +stiff breeze at N.N.E. and a swift current. The 15th they passed +the tropic of Cancer; and the 20th in the morning fell in with +the north side of Cape de Verd. Procuring here a supply of water, +by leave of the Moorish alcaide or governor, for which they had +to pay <i>eight states</i> of iron, they left the cape on the 1st +August, and came in sight of the high land of Sierra Leona on the +21st of that month, as also of the island of <i>Madre bomba</i>, +which lies off the south point of Sierra Leona, and north from +the shallows of the island of St Ann. This land of Sierra Leona +is the highest of all that lie between Cape Verd and the coast of +Guinea, and is therefore easily known.</p> + +<p>On the 30th of August, they cast anchor in eight fathoms water +on a fine sandy bottom, near the shore, and opposite a village or +town of the negroes, in the road of Sierra Leona. This village +consisted only of eight or nine poor thatched huts. The Moorish +inhabitants were willing to come on board to trade, only +demanding a pledge to be left on shore for their security, +because a French ship had recently carried off two of the natives +perfidiously. Aris Clawson, the junior merchant or supercargo, +went accordingly on shore, where he drove a small trade for +lemons and bananas, in exchange for glass beads. In the mean time +some of the natives came off to the ships, bringing with them an +interpreter who spoke many languages. They here very conveniently +furnished themselves with fresh water, which poured down in great +abundance from a very high hill, so that they had only to place +their casks under the waterfall. There were here whole woods of +lemon-trees, and lemons were so cheap that they might have had a +thousand for a few beads, and ten thousand for a few common +knives; so that they easily procured as many as they wished, and +each man had 150 for sea store. The 3d September they found a +vast shoal of fish, resembling a shoemaker's knife.</p> + +<p>They left Sierra Leona on the 4th September; and on the 5th +October, being in lat 4° 27' S. they were astonished by +receiving a violent stroke on the bottom of one of the ships, +though no rock appeared to be in the way. While forming +conjectures on the occasion of this shock, the sea all about the +ship began to change colour, appearing as if some great fountain +of blood had opened into it. This sudden alteration of the water +seemed not less wonderful than the striking of the ship; but the +cause of both was not discovered till after their arrival in Port +Desire, when the ship was laid on shore to clean her bottom, when +they found a large horn, of a substance resembling ivory, +sticking fast in the bottom. It was entirely firm and solid, +without any internal cavity, and had pierced through three very +stout planks, grazing one of the ribs of the ship, and stuck at +least a foot deep in the wood, leaving about as much on the +outside, up to the place where it broke off.[104]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 104: This must have been a Narvai, or +Narwhal, the Monodon Monoceros, Licorne, or Unicornu Marinum, of +naturalists, called likewise the Unicorn Fish, or Sea +Unicorn.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 25th of October, when no person knew whereabouts they +were except Schouten, the company was informed that the design of +the voyage was to endeavour to discover a new southern passage +into the South Sea; and the people appeared well pleased, +expecting to discover some new golden country to make amends for +all their trouble and danger. The 26th they were in lat. 6° +25' S. and continued their course mostly to the south all the +rest of that month, till they were in lat 10° 30' S. The 1st +September they had the sun at noon to the north; and in the +afternoon of the 3d they had sight of the isle of Ascension, in +20° S. otherwise called the island of Martin Vaz, where the +compass was observed to vary 12° to the east of north. The +21st, in lat. 38° S. the compass varied 17° in the same +eastern direction. The 6th December, they got sight of the +mainland of South America, appearing rather flat, and of a white +colour, and quickly after fell in with the north head-land of +Port Desire, anchoring that night in ten fathoms water with the +ebb-tide, within a league and a half of the shore. Next day, +resuming their course southwards, they came into Port Desire at +noon, in lat. 47° 40' S. They had very deep water at the +entrance, where they did not observe any of the cliffs which were +described by Van Noort, as left by him to the northward on +sailing into this haven, all the cliffs they saw being on the +south side of the entrance, which therefore might be those +mentioned by Van Noort, and misplaced in his narrative by +mistake.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this error, they overpassed Port Desire to +the south, so as to miss the right channel, and came into a +crooked channel, where they had four and a half fathoms water at +full sea, and only fourteen feet at low water. By this means the +Unity got fast aground by the stern, and had infallibly been +lost, if a brisk gale had blown from the N.E. But as the wind +blew west from the land, she got off again without damage. Here +they found vast quantities of eggs upon the cliffs; and the bay +afforded them great abundance of muscles, and smelts sixteen +inches long, for which reason they called it <i>Smelt Bay</i>. +From this place they sent a pinnace to the Penguin Islands, which +brought back 150 of these birds, and two sea lions.</p> + +<p>Leaving Smelt Bay on the 8th December, they made sail for Port +Desire, a boat going before to sound the depth of the channel, +which was twelve and thirteen fathoms, so that they sailed in +boldly, having a fair wind at N.E. After going in little more +than a league, the wind began to veer about, and they cast anchor +in twenty fathoms; but the ground, consisting entirely of +slippery stones, and the wind now blowing strong at N.W. they +drifted to the south shore, where both ships had nearly been +wrecked. The Unity lay with her side to the cliffs, yet still +kept afloat, and gradually slid down towards the deep water as +the tide fell. But the Horn stuck fast aground, so that at last +her keel was above a fathom out of the water, and a man might +have walked under it at low water. For some time, the N.W. wind +blowing hard on one side, kept her from falling over; but, that +dying away, she at length fell over on her bends, when she was +given over for lost; but next flood, coming on with calm weather, +righted her again. Having escaped this imminent danger, both +ships went farther up the river on the 9th, and came to King's +Island, which they found full of black sea-mews, and almost +entirely covered with their eggs; so that a man without moving +from one spot might reach fifty or sixty nests with his hands, +having three or four eggs in each. They here accordingly were +amply provided with eggs, and laid in several thousands of them +for sea store.</p> + +<p>The 11th the boats were sent down the river in search of fresh +water, on the south side, but found it all brackish and +unpleasant. They saw ostriches here, and a sort of beasts like +harts, having wonderfully long necks, and extremely wild. Upon +the high hills, they found great heaps of stones, under which +some monstrous carcass had been buried, some of the bones being +ten or eleven feet long, which, if having belonged to rational +creatures, must have been the bones of giants.[105] They here had +plenty of good fish and fowls, but no water could be found for +some days.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 105: Giants indeed; for thigh bones of ten +or eleven feet long, and these are the longest in the human body, +would argue men of <i>thirty-one feet high</i>!--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 17th December, the Unity was laid ashore on King's +island, in order to clean her bottom, and next day the Horn was +hauled on shore for the same purpose, but providentially at the +distance of about 200 yards from her consort: For, on the 19th, +while burning a fire of dry reeds under the Horn, which was +necessary for the object in view, the flame caught hold of the +ship, and they were forced to see her burn without being able to +do any thing to extinguish the fire, as they were at least fifty +feet from the water side. They launched the Unity at high water +on the 20th, and next day carried on board all the iron-work, +anchors, cannon, and whatever else they had been able to save +belonging to the Horn.</p> + +<p>On the 25th some holes full of fresh water were found, which +was white and muddy, yet well tasted, and of which a great +quantity was carried on board, in small casks on the men's +shoulders. At this place, they found great numbers of sea lions, +the young of which are good to eat. This creature is nearly as +big as a small horse, their heads resembling lions, and the males +having long manes on their necks of tough coarse hair; but the +females have no manes, and are only half as large as the males. +They are a bold and fierce animal, and only to be destroyed by +musket shot.</p> + +<p>January 18th, 1616, they departed from Port Desire: and on the +18th, being in lat. 51° S they saw the Sebaldine [or +Faulkland] islands, as laid down by de Weert. The 20th, being in +lat. 53° S. and by estimation twenty leagues to the South of +the Straits of Magellan, they observed a strong current running +to the S.W. The 22d the wind was uncertain, and shifting, and the +water had a white appearance, as if they had been within the +land; and holding on their course, S. by W. they saw land that +same day, bearing from them W. and W.S.W. and quickly afterwards +saw other land to the south. Then attempting, by an E.S.E. +course, to get beyond the land, they were constrained to take in +their topsails, by the wind blowing hard at north. In the +forenoon of the 24th they saw land to starboard, at the distance +of a league, stretching out to the east and south, having very +high hills all covered with snow. They then saw other land +bearing east from the former, which likewise was high and rugged. +According to estimation, these two lands lay about eight leagues +asunder, and they guessed there might be a good passage between +them, because of a brisk current which ran to the southward in +the direction of that opening. At noon they made their latitude +54° 46',[106] and stood towards the before-mentioned opening, +but were delayed by a calm. At this place they saw a prodigious +multitude of penguins, and such numbers of whales that they had +to proceed with much caution, being afraid they might injure +their ship by running against them.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 106: They were here obviously approaching +the Straits of Le Maire, discovered on the present occasion, the +northern opening of which is in lat. 54° 40' S. the southern +in 55° S. and the longitude 65° 15' W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the forenoon of the 25th they got close in with the eastern +land, and upon its north side, which stretched E.S.E. as far as +the eye could carry. This they named <i>States Land</i>, and to +that which lay westward of the opening they gave the name of +<i>Maurice Land</i>.[107] The land on both sides seemed entirely +bare of trees and shrubs, but had abundance of good roads and +sandy bays, with great store of fish, porpoises, penguins and +other birds. Having a north wind at their entrance into this +passage, they directed their course S.S.W. and going at a brisk +rate, they were at noon in lat. 55° 36' S. and then held a +S.W. course with a brisk gale. The land on the south side of the +passage or Straits of <i>Le Maire</i>, and west side, to which +they gave the name of <i>Maurice Land</i>, [being the east side +of the Terra del Fuego] appeared to run W.S.W. and S.W. as far as +they could see, and was all a very rugged, uneven, and rocky +coast. In the evening, having the wind at S.W. they steered S. +meeting with prodigious large waves, rolling along before the +wind; and, from the depth of the water to leeward, which appeared +by very evident signs, they were fully convinced that they had +the great South Sea open before them, into which they had now +almost made their way by a new passage of their own +discovering.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 107: The former of these names is still +retained, but not the latter; the land on the west of the Straits +of Le Maire being Terra del Fuego; and the cape at the N.W. of +the straits mouths is now called Cape St Vincent, while the S.W. +point is named Cape St Diego.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At this place the <i>sea-mews</i> were larger than swans, +their wings when extended measuring six feet from tip to tip. +These often alighted on the ship, and were so tame as to allow +themselves to be taken by hand, without even attempting to +escape. The 26th at noon they made their latitude 57° S. +where they were assailed by a brisk storm at W.S.W. the sea +running very high, and of a blue colour. They still held their +course to the southwards, but changed at night to the N.W. in +which direction they saw very high land. At noon of the 27th they +were in 56° 51' S. the weather being very cold, with hail and +rain, and the wind at W. and W. by S. The 28th they had great +billows rolling from the west, and were at noon in 56° 48' S. +The 29th having the wind at N.E. they steered S.W. and came in +sight of two islands W.S.W. of their course, beset all round with +cliffs. They got to these islands at noon, giving the name of +<i>Barnevelt's Islands</i>, and found their latitude to be +57° S.[108] "Being unable to sail <i>above</i> them, they +held their course to the north; and taking a N.W. course in the +evening from Barnevelt's islands, they saw land N.W. and N.N.W. +from them, being the lofty mountainous land covered with snow, +which lies to the south of the straits of Magellan, [called Terra +del Fuego,] and which ends in a sharp point, to which they gave +the name of <i>Cape Horn</i>, which is in lat. 57° 48' +S."[109]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 108: Only 56°, so that by some +inaccuracy of instruments or calculation, the observations of the +latitude, in this voyage, seem all considerably too +high.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 109: The course in the text within inverted +commas, from Barnevelt's islands to Cape Horn, is evidently +erroneously stated. It ought to have run thus. "Being unable to +pass to the north of these islands, they held their course S.W. +seeing land on the N.W. and N.N.W. of their course, which ended +in a sharp point, which they named <i>Cape Horn</i>."--Cape Horn +is in lat. 56° 15' S. and long. 67° 45' W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They now held their course westwards, being assisted by a +strong current in that direction; yet had the wind from the +north, and had heavy billows meeting them from the west. The +30th, the current and billows as before, they were fully assured +of having the way open into the South Sea, and this day at noon +they made their latitude 57° 34' S. The 31st sailing west, +with the wind at north, their latitude at noon was 58° S. But +the wind changing to W. and W.S.W. they passed Cape Horn, losing +sight of land altogether, still meeting huge billows rolling from +the west with a blue sea, which made them believe they were in +the main South Sea. February 1st, they had a storm at S.W. and +sailed N.W. and W.N.W. The 2d, having the wind at W. they sailed +southwards, and came into the lat. of 57° 58' S. The 3d they +made their latitude 59° 25' S. with a strong wind at W. but +saw no signs of any land to the South.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Continuation of the Voyage, from Cape Horn to the Island of +Java.</i></p> + +<p>Altering their course to the northwards, they plainly +discerned the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, bearing +east from them, on the 12th February; and being now quite sure of +their new and happy discovery, they returned thanks to the +Almighty for their good fortune over a cup of wine, which was +handed three times round the company. To this new-found passage +or straits, leading from the Atlantic into the Pacific, they gave +the name of the <i>Straits of Le Maire</i>, though that honour +ought justly to have been given to <i>Schouten,</i> by whose +excellent conduct these straits were discovered.</p> + +<p>By the 27th of February they were in lat. 40° S. with fair +weather, continuing their course to the north; but on the 28th, +they determined to sail for the island of Juan Fernandez, to give +some rest and refreshment to their sickly and wearied company. +That day their latitude at noon was 35° 53' S. In the evening +they shortened sail, fearing to fall in with the land in the +night. Next day, being the 1st of March, they saw the islands of +Juan Fernandez to the N.N.E. and got up to them at noon, being in +the lat. of 35° 53' S.[110] The smaller of these islands is +that to the westwards, [Masafuero,] which is very barren and +rocky. The greater [Juan Fernandez,] to the eastwards, though +also very high and mountainous, is yet fruitful and well shaded +with trees. This island affords plenty of hogs and goats; and +there is such excellent fishing all round, that the Spaniards +come hither for that purpose, and transport vast quantities of +fish from hence to Peru.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 110: The latitude of Juan Fernandez is only +33° 42' S. The two islands mentioned in the text under this +name, are Juan Fernandez and Masafuero; the former in long. +77° 80', the latter in 79° 40', both W. from Greenwich. +Or perhaps, the second island may be the Small Goat's or Rabbit +Island, off its S.W. end, called <i>Isola de Cabras</i>, or <i>de +Conejos</i>.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The road or haven of Juan Fernandez, [named la Baia, or +Cumberland Harbour,] is at the east end of the island; but they +shaped their course to the west end, where they could find no +place in which to anchor. The boat being sent in search of an +anchorage, brought an account of a beautiful valley, full of +trees and thickets, and refreshed by streams of water running +down from the hills, with a variety of animals feeding in this +pleasant spot. The boat brought also great store of fish on +board, being mostly lobsters and crabs, and reported having seen +many sea wolves. Finding the island inaccessible, they took a +considerable quantity of fish, and procured a supply of fresh +water, after which they determined to pursue their voyage.</p> + +<p>The 11th March they passed the tropic of Capricorn to the +north, the wind in general being E.S.E. and they held their +course N.N.W. till the 15th, when being in lat. 18° S. they +changed their course to W. The 3d April they were in 15° 12' +S. being then much afflicted with the flux, and that day they saw +a small low island which they got up to at noon. Finding no +bottom, they could not come to anchor, but sent some men ashore +in the boat. They found nothing here fit for refreshment, except +some herbs which tasted like scurvy grass, and saw some dogs +which could neither bark nor snarl, and for which reason they +named it Dog Island. It is in lat. 15° 12', and they judged +it to be 925 leagues west from the coast of Peru.[111] The +interior of this island is so low, that it seemed mostly +overflowed at high water, its outskirt being a sort of dike or +mound, overgrown with trees, between which the salt water +penetrates in several places.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 111: Dog Island is in lat. 15° 18' S. +and long. 137° W. about 1200 marine leagues west from the +coast of Peru under the same parallel. By the description in the +text it seems one of those which are usually termed <i>lagoon</i> +islands--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 14th, sailing W. and W. by N. they saw a large low island +in the afternoon, reaching a considerable way N.E. and S.W. At +sun-set, being about a league from this island, a canoe came to +meet them, in which were some naked Indians of a reddish colour, +having long black hair. They made signs to the Dutch to go on +shore, and spoke to them in a language which was not understood; +neither did the Indians understand them, though spoken to in +Spanish, Moluccan, and Javan. Getting near the coast, no bottom +could be found, though only a musket-shot from land. They now +sailed S.S.W. along the island, making ten leagues during the +night, and continued along the shore on the 15th, many naked +people continually inviting them to land. At length a canoe came +off, but the natives would not venture into the ship, yet came to +the boat, where the Dutch gave them beads, knives, and other +trifles; but they found them thievishly disposed, much like the +natives of the Ladrones, and were so fond of iron, that they +stole the nails from the cabin windows, and the bolts from the +doors. Their skins were all pictured over with snakes, dragons, +and such like reptiles, and they were entirely naked, except a +piece of mat before them. A boat was sent ashore well armed, and +immediately on landing, about thirty of the natives rushed from a +wood, armed with clubs, slings, and long staves or spears, and +would have seized the boat and taken away the arms from the +soldiers; but on receiving a discharge of musquetry they run off. +Not being able to anchor here, they called this the <i>Island +without ground</i>. It is low, and mostly composed of white sandy +ground, on which are many trees, which were supposed to be cocoas +and palmitos. It is not broad, but of considerable length, being +in lat. 15° S. and about 100 leagues from Dog +Island.[112]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 112: Sondre-ground, or Without-ground, is +in lat. 15° 12' S. and 143° 25' W. +long.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Finding nothing could be done here, they held on their course +to the west, and on the 16th came to another island, about +fifteen leagues north from the former. This seemed all drowned +land, yet its skirts were well clothed with trees. Here also they +found no ground, and it yielded nothing but a few herbs, with +some crabs and other shell-fish, which they found good eating. It +afforded them also good fresh water, which they found in a pit +not far from the shore. The pottage or soup, which they made of +certain herbs gathered here, proved serviceable to those who were +afflicted with the flux. They called this <i>Water +Island</i>,[113] because it supplied them with fresh water.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 113: Water-land is in lat. 15° S. and +146° W. long.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Sailing from this island westwards, they came on the 18th to +another island 20 leagues distant from the last, and extending a +considerable way N.W. and S.E. Dispatching the boat in search of +anchorage, a bottom was found near a point of land, in 25 and 40 +fathoms, about a musket-shot from the shore, where also was a +gentle stream of fresh water. This news induced them to send back +the boat with some casks for water: But after using much pains to +get on shore, and searching in the wood to find a spring, they +were frightened away by seeing a savage. On getting back to their +boat, five or six more of the savages came to the shore, but on +seeing the Dutch put off they soon retired into the woods. +Although they thus got rid of the savages, they encountered other +adversaries of a formidable nature; for they were followed from +the woods by innumerable myriads of black flies, so that they +came on board absolutely covered with them from head to foot, and +the plague of flies began to rage in the ship in a most +intolerable manner. This persecution lasted three or four days, +on which account they called this <i>Fly Island</i>,[114] and by +the help of a good breeze of wind, they left it as fast as they +could.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 114: The next island W. or rather S.W. from +Water-land, and nearly at the distance in the text, is now called +Palliser's island.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Continuing their course westwards from the 19th of April to +the 9th of May, when they were in lat. 15° 20' S. and +estimated their distance from Peru 1510 leagues to the west, they +perceived a bark coming towards them, on which they fired a gun +or two to make them strike. But those who were in her, either not +understanding the language of cannon, or unwilling to obey, made +off as fast as they could; on which the Dutch sent their boat +with ten musqueteers to intercept them. Some of the savages in +the bark leapt overboard, and the rest surrendered without +resistance, on which the Dutch used them kindly, dressing those +that were wounded, and saving the lives of some who had leapt +into the sea. Besides the men, there were eight women and several +children, being in all twenty-three, remaining in the bark. They +were a cleanly neat kind of people, of a reddish colour, and +entirely naked except the parts of shame. The men wore their long +black curled hair, but that of the women was cut short.</p> + +<p>The bark was of a singular figure and construction, consisting +of two canoes fastened together, in the midst of each of which +were two planks of red wood to keep out the water, and several +others went across from one canoe to the other, being made fast +and close above, and projected over a good way on each side. At +the end of one of the canoes, on the starboard side, there stood +a mast, having a fork at its upper end, where the yard lay; the +sail being of mats, and the ropes of that kind of stuff of which +fig-frails are made in Spain. Their only furniture consisted of a +few fishing-hooks, the upper part of which was of stone, and the +other of bone, tortoise-shell, or mother-of-pearl. They had no +water on board, instead of which they satisfied themselves with +the liquor of a few cocoa-nuts; in default of which they drank +sea-water, which even the children did heartily. The Dutch sent +them all again on board their vessel, where the women welcomed +their husbands with joyful embraces, after which they made away +to the south-east.[115]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 115: This double canoe seems to have +belonged to the Society islands, and was perhaps bound towards +Otaheite, by the course which it followed on getting rid of the +Dutch.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 10th of May, Schouten continued his course W.S.W. and that +day saw some very high land to larboard, S.E. by S. about eight +leagues off. The 11th they came to a very high island, and about +two leagues south from this to one much lower; and the same day +sailed over a bank where they had fourteen fathoms on a stoney +bottom, about two leagues from the land, and being past this bank +could find no bottom. At this time another bark, or double canoe +like the former, came up to them, having a small loose single +canoe in her, to put out upon occasion. She sailed so fast that +few Dutch ships could have outstripped her. She was steered +behind by two oars, one in each canoe, and when they have a mind +to tack they use oars forwards. Sending their boat to sound at +one of these islands, ground was found a cannon-shot from the +shore, in twelve, fourteen, and fifteen fathoms, but shelvy. The +savages in the bark made signs as if directing them to the other +island, but they anchored at the former in twenty-five fathoms on +a sandy bottom, a cannon-shot from shore.</p> + +<p>This island, in lat. 16° 10' S. is one entire mountain, +looking like one of the Molucca islands, and all covered with +cocoa-nut trees, for which reason they named it Cocoa +island.[116] The other island is much lower than this, but +longer, and stretches east and west. While at anchor off Cocoa +island there came three <i>ships</i>,[117] and nine or ten canoes +about them, having three or four men in each. Some of these +holding out white flags in token of peace, the Dutch did so +likewise. The canoes were flat before and sharp behind, hewed +each out of one piece of a red kind of wood, and sailed very +swiftly. On coming near the Unity, some of the savages leapt into +the sea and swam to the ship, having their hands full of +cocoa-nuts and <i>ubes-roots,</i>[118] which they bartered for +nails and beads, giving four or five cocoa-nuts for a nail or a +small string of beads, so that the Dutch that day procured 180 +cocoa-nuts. This traffic brought so many of the natives on board, +that the Dutch could hardly stir about the ship.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 116: Cocas, or Boscawen island, is in +16° 32' S. and long. 169° 35' W. The other island +mentioned in the text, Traitors, or Keppel island, is a few +leagues S.S.W. from Cocos.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 117: These ships must have been large +double canoes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 118: These <i>ubes</i>-roots were perhaps +the same that are called <i>eddoes</i> by modern navigators among +the South Sea islands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The boat was now sent to the other island to see for a more +convenient place in which to anchor; but she was presently beset +by a vast number of canoes filled with a mad sort of people, +armed with clubs, who boarded the boat and attacked the Dutchmen. +On firing their muskets, the savages laughed at them for making +so much noise and doing so little hurt; but, on the next +discharge, one of them being shot through the breast, they learnt +to pay more respect to the muskets, and to keep their due +distance for the future. The savages were lusty, +well-proportioned men, and most expert swimmers, but naked and +thievish, and very fantastical in the fashion of their hair, some +having it short, others long, some curled, and others plaited or +folded up in various forms.</p> + +<p>On the 12th the savages came again in their canoes, laden with +cocoas, bananas, <i>ubes-roots</i>, hogs, and fresh water, +contending violently who should get first on board. Those who +were behind, being unable to get over the throng of canoes and +men before them, leapt into the sea, and diving under the canoes, +swam to the ship with bunches of cocoas in their mouths, and +climbed up the side like so many rats, and in such swarms that +the Dutch had to keep them off with cudgels. The Dutch bartered +with them that day for so many cocoas, as to produce twelve for +each of their men, being eighty-five in number. The natives +wondered much at the size and strength of the Dutch ship; and +some of them even dived under her bottom, knocking it with +stones, as if to try how strong it was. The king of these savages +sent a black hog on board as a present, charging the messenger to +take no reward. Shortly after he came in person, in a large ship +of their fashion, attended by thirty-five single canoes; and when +at a small distance from the ship, he and all his people began to +bawl out as loud as they could, being their manner of welcoming +strangers. The Dutch received him with drums and trumpets, which +pleased him much; and he and his attendants shewed their sense of +this honourable reception by bowing and clapping their hands. The +king gave them a present after his fashion, which they requited +with an old hatchet, some rusty nails and glass beads, and a +piece of linen, with all which he seemed much pleased. This king +was not distinguished from his subjects by any external mark of +dignity, but merely by the reverence they shewed him, as he was +equally naked with all the rest; but he could not be prevailed on +to come on board the Unity.</p> + +<p>At noon on the 13th, the Dutch ship was surrounded by +twenty-three large double canoes, or ships of their fashion, and +forty-five single canoes, in all of which there could not be less +than seven or eight hundred men. At first they pretended to come +for the purpose of trade, making signs of friendship, and +endeavouring to prevail upon the Dutch to remove their ship to +the other island, where they would be better accommodated. Yet, +in spite of all these fair pretences, the Dutch suspected that +some mischief was intended by the savages, who now began to +environ the ship all around, and then, with a great outcry, made +a sudden attack. The king's ship was the foremost in the action, +and rushed with such violence against the Unity, that the heads +of the two canoes composing it were both dashed to pieces. The +rest came on as well as they could, throwing repeated showers of +great stones on board; but the Dutch, having been on their guard, +so galled them with musquetry, and with three great guns loaded +with musket-balls and nails, that all the savages were fain to +quit their canoes, and seek for safety in the water. Being thus +put to the rout, they dispersed as quickly as possible. These +treacherous savages were inhabitants of the lower, or more +southerly, of the two islands, which therefore the Dutch named +<i>Traitor's Island</i>.</p> + +<p>Schouten sailed from Cocoa Island that same day, holding a +course to the W. and W. by S. and came on the 14th to another +island, about thirty leagues from Cocoa Island, to which he gave +the name of <i>Hope Island</i>,[119] because expecting there to +meet with refreshments. Finding no ground for anchorage, the boat +was sent to sound along shore, and found a stony bottom about a +musket-shot from the shore, in some places having forty, and in +others twenty and thirty fathoms, and then no bottom at all next +throw of the lead. Some ten or twelve canoes came off to the +ship, bartering a small quantity of flying fishes for beads, the +articles being reciprocally exchanged by means of a rope let down +from the stern of the ship. From this peddling traffic the +Indians soon after withdrew, and endeavoured to board and carry +away the boat which was employed in sounding; but met with such a +reception from guns, pikes, and cutlasses, that after two of them +were slain, they were glad to hurry away as fast as they could. +This island was mostly composed of black cliffs, which were green +on the top, and seemed well stocked with cocoa-trees. There were +several houses seen along the sea side; and in one place was a +large village close beside a strand, or landing-place. As there +was no convenient anchorage at this place, the ground being +extremely rough, Schouten proceeded on his voyage to the S.W. +meaning to pursue the originally intended discovery of a southern +continent.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 119: Hope Island is in lat. 16° 32' S. +and in 177° 25' W. longitude.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 18th May, being in lat. 16° 5' S. and the west wind +becoming very unsteady, they began to consult as to the farther +prosecution of their voyage. Schouten represented that they were +now at least 1600 leagues westward from the coast of Peru, +without having made the expected discovery of a southern land, of +which there was now no great probability of success, having +already sailed much farther west than they at first intended. He +said also, if they persisted in following their present course, +they would assuredly come to the southern side of New Guinea; and +if they were unable to find a passage through that country, to +the west or north, they would inevitably be lost, since it would +be impossible for them to get back again, by reason of the east +winds which continually reign in these seas. For these reasons, +and others which he urged, he proposed, that they should now +alter their course to the northwards, so as to fall in with the +north side of New Guinea.[120] This proposal was embraced by all +the company, and it was immediately determined to change the +course to N.N.W. Accordingly, holding their course in that new +direction, they saw two islands at noon of the 19th, about eight +leagues from them, N.E. by E. and seeming to be a cannon-shot +distant from each other.[121] Upon this they steered N.E. with +fair weather and a scanty wind, meaning to approach this island, +but could only get within a league of it on the 21st, when they +were visited by two canoes, the people in which began immediately +to threaten them with loud cries, and at the same time seemed +preparing to dart their <i>assagays</i> or spears: but, on a +discharge from the ship, they made off in haste, leaving two of +their companions behind them who were slain, and a shirt they had +stolen from the ship. Next day other natives came to the ship on +friendly and peaceable terms, bringing cocoa-nuts, ubes-roots, +and roasted hogs, which they bartered for knives, beads, and +nails.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 120: It is almost needless to mention, that +if Schouten had continued his course in the former parallel of +between 15° and 16° S. he must have fallen in with the +group of islands now called the New Hebrides, and afterward with +the northern part of New South Wales.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 121: This was only one island, in lat. +15° S. and long. 180° 10' W. which they named Horn +Island.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The natives of this island were all as expert swimmers and +divers as those in Traitor's Island, and as well versed in +cheating and stealing, which they never failed to do when an +opportunity offered. Their houses stood all along the shore, +being thatched with leaves, and having each a kind of penthouse +to shed off the rain. They were mostly ten or twelve feet high, +and twenty-five feet in compass, their only furniture within +being a bed of dry leaves, a fishing-rod or two, and a great +club, even the house of their king being no better provided than +the rest. At this island the Dutch found good convenience for +watering; and on the 26th they sent three of their principal +people on shore as hostages, or pledges, of friendship with the +islanders, retaining six of them aboard in the same capacity. The +Dutch pledges were treated on shore with great respect by the +king, who presented them with four hogs; and gave strict orders +that none of his people should give the smallest disturbance to +the boat while watering. The natives stood in great awe of their +king, and were very fearful of having any of their crimes made +known to him. One of them having stolen a cutlass, and complaint +being made to one of the king's officers, the thief was pursued +and soundly drubbed, besides being forced to make restitution; on +which occasion the officer signified, that it was well for the +culprit that the king knew not of his crime, otherwise his life +would certainly have been forfeited.</p> + +<p>These islanders were extremely frightened at the report of a +gun, which would set them all running like so many madmen. Yet on +one occasion the king desired to hear one of the great guns let +off, and being set for that purpose under a canopy, with all his +courtiers about him, in great state, the gun was no sooner fired +than he ran off into the woods as fast as possible, followed by +his attendants, and no persuasions of the Dutch could stop them. +The 25th and 26th the Dutch went ashore to endeavour to procure +hogs, but were unable to get any, as the islanders had now only a +few left, and would only part with cocoas, bananas, and +ubes-roots; yet the king continued his wonted kindness and +respect, and he and his lieutenant took the crowns from their own +heads, and set them on the heads of two of the company. These +crowns were composed of the white, red, and green feathers of +parrots and doves. The doves of this island are white on the +back, and black every where else except the breast; and each of +the king's counsellors has one of these birds sitting beside him +on a stick.</p> + +<p>The ship being completely supplied with fresh water on the +28th, Schouten and Le Maire went ashore with the trumpets, with +which music the king was highly gratified. He told them of his +wars with the inhabitants of the other island, and shewed several +caves and thickets where they were in use to place ambuscades. It +plainly appeared that he was fearful of the Dutch having some +design of seizing his country, as he would fain have engaged them +to go to war with the other island, and even offered to give them +ten hogs and a good quantity of cocoas, if they would be gone +from his island in two days. Yet he made them a visit aboard, +praying when he entered the ship, and praying also at every cabin +he entered. He used always to pray likewise every time the Dutch +came ashore to visit him. His subjects also shewed great +submission to the Dutch, kissing their feet, and laying them on +their own necks, with all the marks of awe and fear they could +express.</p> + +<p>The 30th of May was a day of great ceremony, in consequence of +the king of the <i>other island</i>[122] coming to visit the king +of this. This king was accompanied by a train of 300 naked +Indians, having bunches of green herbs stuck about their waists, +of which herb they make their drink. To make sure of a welcome, +this king brought with him a present of sixteen hogs. When the +two kings came in sight of each other, they began to bow and to +mutter certain prayers; on meeting they both fell prostrate on +the ground, and after several strange gestures, they got up and +walked to two seats provided for them, where they uttered a few +more prayers, bowing reverently to each other, and at length sat +down under the same canopy. After this, by way of doing honour to +the stranger king, a messenger was sent aboard, requesting to +send the drums and trumpets ashore, which was done accordingly, +and they played a march to the great entertainment of the two +kings. After this a solemn banquet was prepared, for which they +began to make ready their liquor, and in the following strange +and abominable manner. A number of Indians came into the presence +of the two kings and their attendants, bringing a good quantity +of <i>cana</i>, the herb of which they make their drink, each of +whom took a large mouthful thereof, and having chewed it a while, +put it from their mouths into a large wooden trough, and poured +water on the chewed herb. After stirring it some time, they +squeezed out all the liquor, which they presented in cups to the +two kings.[123] They also offered of it to the Dutch, who were +ready to vomit at the nastiness of its preparation.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 122: No <i>other island</i> is to be found +in modern maps near Horn Island, the nearest being the Feejee +Islands, a numerous group, about thirty leagues S.S.W. It is +therefore probable that Horn Island may have consisted of two +peninsulas, united by a low narrow neck, appearing to Schouten as +two distinct islands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 123: In the Society Islands, as related by +modern navigators, an intoxicating liquor is prepared nearly in a +similar manner, by chewing the <i>ava</i>, or +pepper-root.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The eating part of this entertainment consisted of ubes-roots +roasted, and hogs nicely dressed in the following manner: Having +ripped open their bellies and taken out the entrails, they singed +off the hair, and put hot stones into their bellies, by which, +without farther cleaning or dressing, they were made fit for the +royal feast.[124] They presented two hogs dressed in this manner +to the Dutch, with all the form and ceremony used to their kings, +laying them first on their heads, then kneeling with much +humility, they left them at their feet. They gave the Dutch also +eleven living hogs; for which they got in return a present of +knives, old nails, and glass beads, with which they were well +pleased. The natives of this island were of a dark yellow colour, +so tall, large, strong, and well-proportioned, that the tallest +of the Dutch could only be compared with the smallest among them. +Some wore their hair curled, frizzled, or tied up in knots, while +others had it standing bolt upright on their heads, like +hog's-bristles, a quarter of an ell high. The king and some of +his chief men had long locks of hair, hanging down below their +hips, bound with a few knots. The women were all very ugly +figures, short and ill-shaped, their breasts hanging down to +their bellies like empty satchels, and their hair close cropped. +Both sexes were entirely naked, except a slight covering in +front. They seemed altogether void of any devotion, and free from +care, living on what the earth spontaneously produces, without +any art, industry, or cultivation. They neither sow nor reap, +neither buy nor sell, neither do any thing for a living, but +leave all to nature, and must starve if that fail them at any +time. They seem also to have as little regard for the dictates of +decency and modesty, as for those of civil policy and prudence; +for they will use their women openly in the largest assembly, +even in presence of their king, whom, in other respects, they so +greatly reverence. To this island the Dutch gave the name of Horn +Island, from the town in Holland whence they fitted out; and +named the haven in which they anchored <i>Unity Bay</i>, after +their ship. This bay, resembling a natural dock, is on the south +side of the island, in the latitude of 14° 16' S.[125]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 124: Modern voyagers describe this mode of +dressing more minutely. A pit is dug in the earth, which is lined +with heated stones, on which the hog is placed, having hot stones +in its belly, and is covered with other hot stones, when the pit +is covered up like a grave. After remaining a sufficient time in +this situation, the <i>barbacued hog</i> is said to be nicely +dressed.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 125: The latitude and longitude of Horn +Island have been given in a former note, but its most extreme +south point may reach to 15° 16' S.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving Horn Island on the 1st of June, they saw no other land +till the 21st, when they made towards a very low island bearing +S.S.W. by W. from them, in lat. 4° 47' S. near which were +several sands stretching N.W. from the land, as also three or +four small islands very full of trees. Here a canoe came to the +Unity, of the same odd fashion with those formerly described. The +people also were much like those formerly seen, only blacker, and +armed with bows and arrows, being the first they had seen among +the Indians of the South Sea. These people told them, by signs, +that there was more land to the westwards, where their king +dwelt, and where there were good refreshments to be had. On this +information, they sailed on the 22d W. and W. by N. in the lat. +of 4° 45' S. and saw that day at least twelve or thirteen +islands close together, lying W.S.W. from them, and reaching S.E. +and N.W. about half a league, but they left these to larboard. +The 24th, the wind being S. they saw three low islands to +larboard, S.W. of their course, one of them very small, the other +two being each two miles long, all very full of trees, to which +they gave the name of <i>Green Islands</i>.[126] The shores of +these islands were rugged and full of cliffs, presenting no place +for anchoring, wherefore they proceeded on their voyage.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 126: These Green Islands of Schouten are +laid down in our best modern maps in lat. 4° S. and long. +205° 20' W. The other two groups mentioned at this place in +the text and without names, seem to have been the <i>Four +Islands</i> and the <i>Nine Islands</i> of Carteret, to the S.E. +of Green Islands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 25th, being St John the Baptist's day, they sailed past +another island, on which were seven or eight hovels, which they +named St John's Island. [Lat. 3° 40' S. long. 206° 20' +W.] At this time they saw some very high land to the S.W. which +they thought to be the western point of New Guinea.[127] They +reached this coast by noon, and sailed along, sending their boat +in search of an anchorage, but no bottom could then be found. Two +or three canoes filled with a barbarous people attacked the boat +with slings, but were soon driven away by the muskets. These +people were very black, entirely naked, and spoke a quite +different language from that of the islanders they had seen +hitherto. They kept fires burning on the coast all night, and +some of them came lurking about the ship in their canoes; but +though the Dutch, on discovering them, did every thing they could +to conciliate, they would not understand any signs made for +procuring provisions, but answered all with horrible noises and +outcries.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 127: This land was discovered afterwards to +be separate from New Guinea, and is now named New Ireland, having +another large island interposed, called New +Britain.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At night, they anchored in a bay in 40 fathoms on uneven +ground. About this place the country was high and verdant, and +afforded a pleasant prospect, being, as they guessed, 1840 +leagues west from the coast of Peru. In the morning of the 26th, +three canoes came to the ship, quite full of these barbarians, +being well armed after their manner, with clubs, wooden swords, +and slings. The Dutch treated them kindly, giving them several +toys to procure their favour; but they were not to be won by +kindness, neither could they be taught good manners except by the +language of the great guns: For they presently assaulted the ship +with all their force, and continued till ten or twelve of them +were slain by cannon-shot. They then threw themselves into the +water, endeavouring to escape by swimming and diving; but they +were pursued in the water by the boat, when several were knocked +in the head, and three prisoners taken, besides four of their +canoes, which were cut up as fuel for the use of the ship. Though +these savages would not formerly understand any signs, they were +now more apt, and understood that hogs and bananas were demanded +in ransom for the prisoners. One wounded man was set at liberty, +but the Dutch exacted ten hogs for the others. This island +afforded a sort of birds that are all over bright red. North of +it lay another island, of which they made no other discovery, +except its position in regard to this. The Dutch concluded that +these people were of the <i>Papuas</i> nation, because of their +short hair, and because they chewed betel mixed with chalk.</p> + +<p>In the evening of the 28th, they sailed from hence, and next +day held a course to the N.W. and N.W. by N. with a shifting wind +till noon, and then a calm. They had the point of the island in +view till evening, though they sailed along the coast, which was +full of bays and turnings, and trended N.W. and N.W. by W. This +day they saw other three high islands, which lay northwards five +or six miles from the greater one, being then in the latitude of +3° 20' S. The 30th in the morning, several canoes of these +black Papuas came off to the ship, and being allowed to come +aboard, broke certain staves over the Dutch, in sign of peace. +Their canoes were more artificially made and ornamented than the +others, and the people seemed more civilized and more modest, as +they had the pudenda covered, which the others had not. Their +hair was rubbed over with chalk, their black frizly locks +appearing as if powdered. They affected to be poor, and came to +beg, not bringing any thing to the ship, yet the four islands +whence they came appeared, to be well stored with cocoas.</p> + +<p>On the 1st June, the Dutch came to anchor between the coast of +New Guinea and an island two miles long. They were soon after +surrounded by twenty-five canoes, full of the same people who had +broken staves the day before in token of peace, and who came now +fully armed in guise of war. They were not long of entering on +the work they came about. Two of them laid hold of two anchors +which hung from the bows of the ship, and endeavoured with their +girdles to tug the ship on shore. The rest lay close to the +ship's sides, and gave a brisk onset with slings and other +weapons; but the great guns soon forced them to retire, with +twelve or thirteen killed, and many more wounded. After this, the +Dutch sailed peaceably along the coast, with a good gale of wind, +continuing their course W.N.W. and N.W. by W. The 2d they were in +lat. 3° 12' S. and saw a low land to larboard, and right +before them a low island. Continuing W.N.W. with a slight current +at E.N.E. they sailed gently along. The 3d they saw high land, +bearing W. about 14 leagues from the other island, and in lat. +2° 41' S. The 4th, while passing these four island, they +suddenly came in view of twenty-three other islands, some great, +some small, some high, and others low, most of which they left to +starboard, and only two or three to larboard. Some of these were +a league distant from the others, and some only a cannon-shot. +Their latitude was in 2° 30' S. a little more or less.</p> + +<p>On the 6th in the morning, the weather being variable and even +sometimes stormy, they had in the morning a very high hill before +them, bearing S.W. which they thought to have been +<i>Geeminassi</i> in Banda; but, on a nearer approach, they +discovered three other hills more like it in the north, some six +or seven leagues distant, which they were convinced were that +hill of Banda.[128] Behind these hills lay a large tract of land, +stretching east and west, of very great extent, and very uneven. +In the morning of the 7th, they sailed towards these mighty +hills, some of which they found were volcanoes, for which reason +they named this <i>Vulcan's Island</i>. It was well inhabited and +fall of cocoa-nut trees, but had no convenient place for +anchorage. The inhabitants were naked, and extremely fearful of +the Dutch, and their language so different from that of all the +neighbouring people, that none of the blacks could understand +them. More islands appeared to the N. and N.W. but they proceeded +to a very low island, bearing N.W. by W. which they reached in +the evening. The water here was observed to be of several +colours, green, white, and yellow, perhaps occasioned by the +mixture of some river, as it was far sweeter than ordinary sea +water, and was full of leaves and boughs of trees, on some of +which were birds, and even some crabs.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 128: They still had the north-western end +of Papua or New Guinea between them and Banda, from which they +were distant at least twelve degrees of +longitude.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 8th, continuing their course W.N.W. having a high +island on the starboard, and another somewhat lower to larboard, +they anchored in the afternoon in 70 fathoms on a good sandy +bottom, about a cannon-shot from the land, at an island in 3° +40' S. which seemed an unhealthy place, yielding nothing of any +value except a little ginger. It was inhabited by Papuas or +blacks, whose ridiculous mode of dress, and their own natural +deformity, made them appear little short of a kind of monsters. +Hardly any of them but had something odd and strange, either in +the bigness or position of their limbs. They had strings of hog's +teeth hung about their necks; their noses were perforated, in +which rings were fastened; their hair was frizled, and their +faces very ugly. Their houses also were extremely singular, being +mounted on stakes, eight or nine feet above the ground. Before +noon of the 9th, they anchored in a more convenient bay, in 26 +fathoms, on a bottom of sand mixed with clay. There were two +villages near the shore, whence some canoes brought off hogs and +cocoas, but the Indians held them at so dear a rate that the +Dutch would not buy any of them.</p> + +<p>Though they had now sailed so long upon this new land, yet +were they unable to determine with any certainty if it actually +were the coast of New Guinea, as their charts neither agreed with +each other, nor with the coast in view. This coast for the most +part ran N.W. by W. sometimes more westerly, and at other times +more northerly. Yet they held on their course W.N.W. along the +coast, having quiet weather though dull winds, but assisted by a +stream or current setting along the coast to the westwards. +Proceeding in this manner, they came into the lat. of 2° 58' +S. at noon of the 12th. Continuing their course on the 13th and +14th, the coast in sight was sometimes high and at other times +low. The 15th, still pursuing the same course, they reached two +low islands about half a league from the main, about the latitude +of 2° 54' S. where they had good anchorage in 45 and 46 +fathoms. Seeing the country well stored with cocoas, two boats +well armed were sent with orders to land and procure some +cocoa-nuts. But they were forced to retire by the Indians, in +spite of their muskets, at least sixteen of the Dutch, being +wounded by arrows and stones thrown from slings.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 16th, they sailed in between the two low +islands, and anchored in a safe place in nine fathoms. They +landed that day on the smaller island, where they burnt some huts +of the natives, and brought away as many cocoa-nuts as gave three +to each man of the company. The barbarous natives became now more +tractable; as on the 17th they came to make their peace-offerings +of cocoas, bananas, ginger, and certain yellow roots [turmeric] +used instead of saffron. They even trusted the Dutch so far as to +come on board, when peace was entirely restored, and their hearts +won by a few nails and beads. They continued bartering on the +18th, for cocoas and bananas, procuring fifty nuts and two +bunches of bananas for each man of the company, with a smaller +quantity of cassava and <i>papade</i>. These cassavas and papades +are East India commodities, the former being also to be had +particularly good in the West Indies, and far preferable to what +they got here. The people make all their bread of this substance, +baking it in large round cakes. This smaller island, which is the +more easterly, the natives named <i>Mosa</i>; the other over +against it they call <i>Jusan</i>, and the farthest off +<i>Arimea</i>, which, is very high, and about five or six leagues +from the coast of New Guinea.[129] These places had probably been +visited before by Europeans, as they had among them some Spanish +pots and jars. They were not nearly so much surprised at the +report of the great guns as the others had been, neither were +they so curious in looking at the ship.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 129: These names are not to be found in our +modern general maps, though certainly infinitely better for all +the uses of geography than the absurd appellations so much in use +among voyagers.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 21st at noon, sailing along the land as before N.W. +they were in lat. 1° 13' S. The current drove them to a +cluster of islands, where they anchored in thirteen fathoms, and +were detained all day of the 22d by storms of thunder and rain. +Setting sail in the morning of the 23d, six large canoes overtook +them, bringing dried fish, cocoas, bananas, tobacco, and a small +sort of fruit resembling plums. Some Indians also from another +island brought provisions to barter, and some vessels of China +porcelain. Like other Savages, they were excessively fond of +beads and iron; but they were remarkably distinguished from the +natives in the last islands, by their larger size, and more +orange-coloured complexions. Their arms were bows and arrows, and +they wore glass earrings of several colours, by which latter +circumstance it appeared that they had been previously visited by +other Europeans, and consequently that this was not to be +considered as a discovery.</p> + +<p>The 24th, steering N.W. and W.N.W. and being in lat. 0° +30' S. they sailed along a very pleasant island, which they named +Schouten's Island, after their master,[130] and called its +western point Cape of Good Hope. The 25th they passed an +extensive tract of uneven land on their larboard hand, stretching +from E.S.E. to W.N.W. The 26th they saw three other islands, the +coast stretching N.W. by W. The 27th they were in lat. 0° 29' +S. still seeing much land to the south, some of which were very +high and some low, which they passed, continuing their course to +the north of west. The 29th they felt the shock of an earthquake, +which shook the ship to that degree that the men ran terrified +out of their births, believing the ship had run a-ground, or had +bilged against some rock. On heaving the lead they found the sea +unfathomable, and their ship clear from all danger of rocks or +shoals. The 30th they put into a great bay, out of which they +could find no opening to the west, and resumed therefore a +northern course. Here the ship trembled again with loud claps of +thunder, and was almost set on fire by the lightning, had it not +been prevented by prodigious rain.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 130: The centre of Schouten Island is in +lat. 0° 30' S. and long. 223° W. It is nearly 24 leagues +long from E. to W. and about eight leagues from N. to S. In some +maps this island is named <i>Mysory</i>, probably the native +appellation, and it lies off the mouth of a great bay, having +within it another island of considerable size, called +<i>Jobie</i>, or Traitor's Island.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 31st, continuing a northern course, they passed to the +north of the equator, and being encompassed almost all round by +land, they anchored in twelve fathoms on good ground, near a +desolate island which lay close by the main land. The 1st of +August they were in lat. 0° 15' N. The 2d and 3d being calm, +they were carried by the current W. and W. by N. This day at noon +their latitude was 0° 35' N. when they saw several whales and +sea-tortoises, with two islands to the westwards. They now +reckoned themselves at the western extremity of the land of New +Guinea, along which they had sailed 280 leagues. Several canoes +came off to them in the morning of the 5th, bringing Indian +beans, rice, tobacco, and two beautiful birds of paradise, all +white and yellow. These Indians spoke the language of Ternate, +and some of them could speak a little Spanish and Malayan, in +which last language Clawson the merchant was well skilled. All +the people in these canoes were finely clothed from the waist +downwards, some with loose silken robes, and others with +breeches, and several had silken turbans on their head, being +Mahometans. All of them had jet black hair, and wore many gold +and silver rings on their fingers. They bartered their provisions +with the Dutch for beads and other toys, but seemed more desirous +of having linen. They appeared so fearful and suspicious of the +Dutch, that they would not tell the name of their country, which +however was suspected to be one of the three eastern points of +Gilolo, and that the people were natives of Tidore, which was +afterwards found to be the case.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 6th they set sail, holding a northern, +course, intending to go round the north point of Gilolo. The 7th +they saw the north point of Morty, or Moraty, N.E. of Gilolo. +Contending with variable winds and adverse currents it was the +19th before they could get into the bay of <i>Soppy</i> in +Gilolo, where they anchored in ten fathoms on sandy ground, about +a cannon-shot from shore. Here they procured poultry, tortoises, +sago, and rice, which was a great relief for the company, still +consisting of eighty-five men in health and vigour. Leaving Soppy +on the 25th August they came to the desert island of Moro on the +1st September, and, on closer examination, found it composed of +several islands close together. They saw here a worm, or serpent, +as thick as a man's leg and of great length. On the 5th they +anchored off the coast of Gilolo. At this place some of the +seamen went ashore unarmed to catch fish, when four Ternatese +soldiers rushed suddenly out of the wood sword-in-hand while the +Dutchmen were drawing their net, intending to have slain them; +but the surgeon called out to them <i>Oran Hollanda</i>, that is, +<i>Holland men</i>, on which the soldiers instantly stopped, +throwing water on their heads in token of peace, and approaching +in a friendly manner, said they had mistaken the Dutchmen for +Spaniards. At the request of the seamen they went on board, +where, being well treated, they promised to bring provisions and +refreshment to the ship, which they afterwards did.</p> + +<p>Sailing thence on the 14th they got sight of Ternate and +Tidore on the 16th, and anchored on the 17th in the evening +before Malaya in Ternate, in eleven fathoms sandy ground. Here +captain Schouten and Jaques Le Maire went ashore, and were kindly +entertained by the general Laurence Real, admiral Stephen +Verhagen, and Jasper Janson, governor of Amboina. On the 18th +they sold two of their pinnaces, with most of what had been saved +out of the unfortunate Horn, receiving for the same 1350 reals, +with part of which they purchased two lasts of rice, a ton of +vinegar, a ton of Spanish wine, and three tons of biscuit. On the +27th they sailed for Bantam, and on the 28th of October anchored +at Jacatra, now Batavia. John Peterson Koen, president for the +Dutch East India Company at Bantam, arrived there on the 31st of +October, and next day sequestered the Unity and her cargo, as +forfeited to the India company for illegally sailing within the +boundaries of their charter.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>In consequence of the seizure of the Unity, captain Schouten +and Jaques Le Maire, with others of their people, embarked at +Bantam in the Amsterdam and Zealand on the 14th December, 1616, +on which they set sail for Holland. On the 31st of that month +Jaques Le Maire died, chiefly of grief and vexation on account of +the disastrous end of an enterprise which had been so successful +till the arrest of the ship and cargo. He was, however, +exceedingly solicitous about his journal, which he had kept with +the utmost care during the voyage, and left a recommendation that +it should be published, that the world might know and judge of +the usage they had received. The Amsterdam arrived in Zealand on +the 1st July, 1617, where her consort had arrived the day before. +Thus was this circumnavigation of the globe completed in two +years and eighteen days; which, considering the difficulties of +the course, and other circumstances of the voyage, was a +wonderfully short period.[131]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 131: In the Collection of Harris this +voyage is succeeded by a dissertation on the high probability of +a southern continent existing, and that this supposed continent +must be another <i>Indies</i>. Both of these fancies being now +sufficiently overthrown by the investigations of our immortal +Cook, and other modern navigators, it were useless to encumber +our pages with such irrelevant reveries.--E.]</blockquote> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-7" id="chapter4-7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE OF THE NASSAU FLEET ROUND THE WORLD, IN 1623-1626, +UNDER THE COMMAND OF JAQUES LE HERMITE.[132]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 132: Harris I. 66. Callend. II. +286.]</blockquote> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>The government of the United Netherlands, considering it +proper to distress their arch enemy the king of Spain by every +means in their power, determined upon sending a powerful squadron +into the South Sea, to capture the ships of his subjects, to +plunder the coasts of his dominions, and to demolish his +fortifications. Accordingly, in autumn 1622, a final resolution +for this purpose was entered into by the States General, with the +concurrence of their stadtholder, Prince Maurice of Orange, who +even advanced a considerable sum of money towards it from his own +funds; and a fleet of no less than eleven ships of war, besides +smaller vessels, were ordered to be fitted out for the +expedition, by the several admiralties of the Union and the East +India Company. This fleet was in condition for putting to sea in +spring 1623, when the command was intrusted to Jaques Le Hermite, +an able and accomplished seaman of great experience, who had been +long in the service of the East India Company, and was now +appointed admiral of the fleet; Hugo Schapenham being +vice-admiral. The ships fitted out on this occasion by the +admiralty of Amsterdam were,--</p> + +<p>1. The Amsterdam of 800 tons, admiral, carrying twenty brass +cannon and twenty-two iron, with 237 men, commanded by Leenders +Jacobson Stolk, as captain, Peter Wely being supercargo, +Engelbert Schutte commander of the soldiers on board, Frederick +van Reneygom fiscal or judge-advocate, John van Walbeck, +engineer, and Justin van Vogelair engineer extraordinary.</p> + +<p>2. The Delft of 800 tons, vice-admiral, having twenty brass +and twenty iron cannon, with 242 men, commanded by captain +Cornelius de Witte.</p> + +<p>3. The Eagle of 400 tons, captain Meydert Egbertson, of twelve +brass and sixteen iron cannon, with 144 men.</p> + +<p>4. A yacht called the Greyhound, of sixty tons, captain +Solomon Willelmson, carrying four brass cannons and twenty +men.</p> + +<p>The admiralty of Zealand fitted out only one ship for this +expedition.</p> + +<p>5. The Orange of 700 tons, captain Laurence John Quirynen, and +carrying likewise the rear-admiral, John William Verschoor. Her +complement of men was 216.[133]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 133: Her number of guns is not mentioned, +but she could hardly have less than thirty-six from her +size--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The admiralty of the Maes furnished the following ships:</p> + +<p>6. The Holland of 600 tons and 152 men, carrying ten pieces of +brass and twenty of iron ordnance. In this ship was Cornelius +Jacobson, who was counsellor to admiral Le Hermite, but the ship +was immediately commanded by captain Adrian Troll.</p> + +<p>7. The Maurice of 360 tons and 169 men, having twelve brass +and twenty iron cannon, commanded by captain James Adrianson.</p> + +<p>8. The Hope of 260 tons and eighty men, with fourteen iron +cannon, captain Peter Hermanson Slobbe.</p> + +<p>The admiralty of North Holland also provided the following +ships:</p> + +<p>9. The Concord of 600 tons and 170 men, with eighteen brass +and fourteen iron cannon, captain John Ysbrandtz.</p> + +<p>10. The King David of 360 tons and seventy-nine men, with +sixteen pieces of brass cannon, captain John Thomason.</p> + +<p>11. The Griffin of 320 tons, and seventy-eight men, with +fourteen iron cannon, captain Peter Cornelison Hurdloop.</p> + +<p>The whole of this fleet of eleven sail, carrying 294 pieces of +cannon, had 1637 men, of whom 600 were regular soldiers, divided +into five companies of 120 men in each. The East India Company +contributed largely to the expence, but does not appear to have +equipped any ships on this occasion.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Incidents of the Voyage from Holland to the South +Sea</i>.</p> + +<p>This armament, usually called the Nassau fleet, was by far the +most considerable that had hitherto been sent against the +Spaniards in the new world, and none so powerful has since +navigated along the western coast of America in an hostile +manner. It sailed on the 29th April, 1622, from Goeree roads, all +but the Orange, which joined next day.</p> + +<p>On the 7th June, while chasing a Barbary corsair, a Christian +slave, who happened to be at the helm, ran the corsair on board +the Dutch vice-admiral, and immediately he and other slaves took +the opportunity of leaping on board to escape from slavery. The +captain of the corsair, who happened to be a Dutch renegado, +followed them, and demanded restitution of his slaves; but the +vice-admiral expostulated so strongly with him on the folly and +infamy of deserting his country and religion, that he sent for +every thing belonging to him out of the corsair, and agreed to go +along with the fleet, to the regret of the Turks, who thus lost +their captain and seventeen good men.</p> + +<p>On the 5th July the fleet anchored in the road of St Vincent, +which is extremely safe and commodious, where they procured +refreshments of sea-tortoises, fish, goats, and oranges. The +islands of St Vincent and St Antonio are the most westerly of the +Cape Verds, being in from 16° 30' to 18° N. latitude, and +about two leagues from each other. The bay of St Vincent, in +which they anchored, is in lat. 16° 56' N. and has a good +firm sandy bottom, with eighteen, twenty, and twenty-five fathoms +water. The island of St Vincent is rocky, barren, and +uncultivated, having very little fresh water, though they found a +small spring which might have served two or three ships. By +digging wells they procured plenty of water, but somewhat +brackish, to which they attributed the bloody flux, which soon +after began to prevail in the fleet. The goats there, of which +they caught fifteen or sixteen every day, were very fat and +excellent eating. The sea-tortoises which they took there were +from two to three feet long. They come on shore to lay their +eggs, which they cover with sand, leaving them to be hatched by +the heat of the sun. Their season of laying eggs is from August +to February, remaining all the rest of the year in the sea. They +caught every night great numbers of these animals while ashore to +lay their eggs, and the sailors found them wholesome and pleasant +food, eating more like flesh than fish.</p> + +<p>This island is altogether uninhabited, but the people of St +Lucia come here once a year to catch tortoises, for the sake of +an oil they prepare from them; and to hunt goats, the skins of +which are sent to Portugal, and their flesh, after being salted +and dried at St Jago, is exported to Brazil. There are no +fruit-trees in this island, except a few wild figs in the +interior; besides which, it produces colocinth, or bitter apple +which is a very strong purge.[134] This island has a very dry +climate, except during the rainy season, which begins in August +and ends in February, but is not very regular.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 134: Cucumis Colocynthis, a plant of the +cucumber family, producing a fruit about the size of an orange, +the medullary part of which, when ripe, dried, and freed from the +seeds, is a very light, white, spongy substance, composed of +membranous leaves, excessively bitter, nauseous, and +acrid.]</blockquote> + +<p>The island of St Antonio is inhabited by about 500 negroes, +including men, women, and children, who subsist chiefly on goats, +and also cultivate a small quantity of cotton. On the sea-side +they have extensive plantations of lemons and oranges, whence +they gather great quantities every year. These were very readily +supplied to the Dutch by the negroes in exchange for mercery +goods, but they saw neither hogs, sheep, nor poultry in the +island.</p> + +<p>Sailing from St Vincent's on the 25th July, they anchored in +the road of Sierra Leona on the 11th August. Here on the 15th +some of the crew being on shore, eat freely of certain nuts +resembling nutmegs, which had a fine taste, but had scarcely got +on board when one of them dropt down dead, and before he was +thoroughly cold he was all over purple spots. The rest recovered +by taking proper medicines. Sierra Leona is a mountain on the +continent of Africa, standing on the south side of the mouth of +the river Mitomba, which discharges itself into a great bay of +the sea. The road in which ships usually anchor is in the lat. of +8° 20' N. This mountain is very high, and thickly covered +with trees, by which it may be easily known, as there is no +mountain of such height any where upon the coast. There grow here +a prodigious number of trees, producing a small kind of lemons +called <i>limasses</i>, (limes?) resembling those of Spain in +shape and taste, and which are very agreeable and wholesome, if +not eaten to excess. The Dutch fleet arrived here at the season +when this fruit was in perfection, and having full leave from the +natives, the people eat them intemperately; by which, and the bad +air, the bloody flux increased much among them, so that they lost +forty men between the 11th of August and the 5th September. +Sierra Leona abounds in palm-trees, and has some ananas, or +pine-apples, with plenty of wood of all sorts, besides having an +exceedingly convenient watering-place opposite to the +anchorage.</p> + +<p>They sailed from Sierra Leona on the 4th September, on which +day the admiral fell sick. On the 29th they were off the island +of St Thomas, just on the north side of the line, and anchored on +the 1st of October at Cape Lopo Gonzalves, in lat. 0° 50' S. +At this place the surgeon of the Maurice was convicted on his own +confession of having poisoned seven sick men, because they had +given him much trouble, for which he was beheaded. On the 30th of +October they anchored in the road of Annobon, where they obtained +hogs and fowls, and were allowed to take in water, and to gather +as many oranges as they thought proper. The east end of this +island, where are the road and village, is in lat. 1° 30' S. +and long. 6° E. from Greenwich. The island is about six +leagues in circuit, consisting of high and tolerably good land, +and is inhabited by about 150 families of negroes, who are +governed by two or three Portuguese, to whom they are very +submissive. If any of them happen to be refractory, they are +immediately sent away to the island of St Thomas, a punishment +which they greatly dread. The island abounds in ananas, bananas, +cocoa-nuts, tamarinds, and sugar-canes; but the principal +inducement for ships touching here is the great plenty of +oranges, of which the Dutch gathered upwards of 200,000, besides +what the seamen eat while on shore. These oranges were of great +size and full of juice, some weighing three quarters of a pound, +and of an excellent taste and flavour, as if perfumed. They are +to be had ripe all the year round, but there is one season in +which they are best and fittest for keeping, which was past +before the Dutch arrived, and the oranges were then mostly over +ripe and beginning to rot. The island also produces lemons, and +has plenty of oxen, cows, goats, and hogs, which the negroes +bartered for salt. On the S.E. part of the island there is a good +watering-place, but difficult to find, which is commanded by a +stone breast-work, whence the negroes might greatly annoy any who +attempted to water by force. They grow here some cotton, which is +sent to Portugal. The natives are treacherous, and require to be +cautiously dealt with.</p> + +<p>The fleet left Annobon on the 4th November, and on the 6th +January, 1624, they were in lat. 44° 40' S. where they saw +many sea-gulls, and much herbage floating on the water, whence +they supposed themselves near the continent of South America. On +the 19th the sea appeared as red as blood, proceeding from an +infinite quantity of a small species of shrimps. On the 28th they +lost sight of their bark, in which were eighteen men, three of +them Portuguese. These people, as they afterwards learnt, having +in vain endeavoured to rejoin the fleet, determined to return to +Holland. Being in want of water, they sailed up the Rio de la +Plata till they came into fresh water, after which they continued +their voyage, suffering incredible hardships, and the utmost +extremity of want, till they arrived on the coast of England, +where they ran their vessel on shore to escape a privateer +belonging to Dunkirk, and afterward got back to Holland.</p> + +<p>The 1st February the fleet came in sight of land, being Cape +de Pennas.[135] Next day they found themselves at the mouth of +the straits. This is easily distinguished, as the country on the +east, called <i>Saten Land</i>, is mountainous, but broken and +very uneven; while that on the west, called <i>Maurice Land</i> +by the Dutch, or Terra del Fuego, has several small round hills +close to the shore. The 6th they had sight of Cape Horn; and on +the 11th, being in lat. 58° 30' S. they had excessively cold +weather, which the people were ill able to bear, being on short +allowance. On the 16th they were in lat. 56° 10' S. Cape Horn +being then to the east of them, and anchored on the 17th in a +large bay, which they named <i>Nassau bay</i>.[136] Another bay +was discovered on the 18th, in which there was good anchorage, +with great convenience for wooding and watering, and which they +called Schapenham's bay, after the name of their +vice-admiral.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 135: This seems to be what is now called +Cape St Vincent, at the W. side of the entrance into the Straits +of Le Maire.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 136: The centre of Nassau bay is in lat. +55° 30' N. long. 68° 20' W. This bay is formed between +Terra del Fuego on the north, and Hermite's island south by east, +the south-eastern extreme point of which is Cape Horn. This +island appears to have been named after admiral Le +Hermite.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 23d a storm arose with such violence that nineteen men +belonging to the Eagle were compelled to remain on shore; and +next day, when the boats were able to go for them, only two of +these men were left alive, the savages having come upon them in +the dark, and knocked seventeen of them on the head with their +slings and wooden clubs, the poor Dutchmen being all unarmed, and +not having offered the least injury or insult to the savages. +Only five of the dead bodies were found on the shore, which were +strangely mangled, all the rest having been carried away by the +savages, as it was supposed, to eat them. After this, every boat +that went ashore carried eight or ten soldiers for their +security; but none of the savages ever appeared again.</p> + +<p>The vice-admiral went on the 25th in the Greyhound to visit +the coast. On his return he reported to the admiral, that he +found the Terra del Fuego divided into several islands, and that +it was by no means necessary to double Cape Horn in order to get +into the South Sea, as they might pass out from Nassau bay to the +west into the open sea, leaving Cape Horn on the south. He +apprehended also, that there were several passages from Nassau +bay leading into the Straits of Magellan. The greatest part of +the <i>Terra del Fuego</i> is mountainous, but interspersed with +many fine vallies and meadows, and watered by numerous streams or +rivulets, descending from the hills. Between the islands there +are many good roads, where large fleets may anchor in safety, and +where there is every desirable convenience for taking in wood, +water, and ballast. The winds, which rage here more than in any +other country, and with inexpressible violence, blow constantly +from the west, for which reason such ships as are bound westerly +ought to avoid this coast as much as possible, keeping as far +south as they can, where they are likely to meet with southerly +winds to facilitate their westerly course.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the Terra del Fuego are as fair as any +Europeans, as was concluded by seeing a young child; but the +grown-up people disguise themselves strangely, painting +themselves with a red earth after many fanciful devices, some +having their heads, others their arms, their legs and thighs red, +and other parts of their bodies white. Many of them have one half +of their bodies red, from the forehead to the feet, and the other +side white. They are all strong made and well-proportioned, and +generally about the same stature with Europeans. Their hair is +black, which they wear long, thick, and bushy, to make them the +more frightful. They have good teeth, but very thin, and as sharp +as the edge of a knife. The men go entirely naked, and the women +have only a piece of skin about their waists, which is very +surprising, considering the severity of the climate. Their huts +are made of trees, in the form of a round tent, having a hole at +the top to let out the smoke. Within they are sunk two or three +feet under the surface of the ground, and the earth taken from +this hollow is thrown upon the outside. Their fishing-tackle is +very curious, and is furnished with hooks made of stone, nearly +of the same shape with ours. They are variously armed, some +having bows and arrows artificially headed with stone; others +long javelins or spears, headed with bone; some have great wooden +clubs, some have slings, and most have stone knives, or daggers, +which are very sharp. They are never seen without their arms, as +they are always at war among themselves; and it would appear that +the several tribes paint differently, that they may distinguish +each other; for the people about the island of <i>Torhaltens</i>, +and about <i>Schapenham bay</i>, were all painted black, while +those about <i>Greyhound bay</i> were painted red.</p> + +<p>Their canoes are very singular, being formed of bark, +fortified both on the inside and outside with several pieces of +small wood, and then covered over by bark, so as to be both tight +and strong. These canoes are from ten to fourteen, and even +sixteen feet long, and two feet broad, and will contain seven or +eight men, who navigate them as swiftly as our boats. In manners, +these people resemble beasts more than men, for they tear human +bodies in pieces, and eat the raw and bloody flesh. They have not +the smallest spark of religion, neither any appearance of polity +or civilization, being in all respects utterly brutal, insomuch +that if they have occasion to make water, they let fly upon +whoever is nearest them. They have no knowledge of our arms, and +would even lay their hands on the edges of the Dutchmen's swords; +yet are exceedingly cunning, faithless, and cruel; shewing every +appearance of friendship at one time, and instantly afterwards +murdering those with whom they have been familiar. The Dutch +found it impossible to procure any kind of refreshments from +them, though such surely were among them, for quantities of +cow-dung were seen; and their bow-strings were made of ox sinews: +besides, a soldier who went ashore from the Greyhound yacht, +while she lay at anchor, reported to the vice-admiral, that he +had seen a large herd of cattle feeding in a meadow.[137]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 137: This is not at all likely to have been +true. The cattle, the dung, and the sinews mentioned in the text, +are more likely to have been of some species of the seal +tribe--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 27th of February, 1624, the admiral made a signal for +sailing, the wind being then N. so that hopes were entertained of +getting from the bay of Nassau to the west; but a storm came on +in the evening at W. and blew hard all night. March 3d, they had +an observation at noon, when they were in lat, 59° 45' S. +with the wind at N.W. Hitherto it had been the opinion of +nautical men, that it was easy to get from the Straits of Le +Maire to Chili, but hardly possible to pass from Chili by that +strait into the Atlantic, as they imagined that the south wind +blew constantly in these seas: but they now found the case quite +otherwise, as the frequent tempests they encountered from W. and +N.W. rendered it beyond comparison easier to have passed through +the Straits of Le Maire from the South Sea than from the +Atlantic.</p> + +<p>The wind still continuing strong from the west on the 6th, the +admiral held a council to consider of a proper rendezvous for the +fleet, in case of separation, or of being forced to winter, if +these west winds should still continue to oppose their entry into +the South Sea. Some proposed the Terra del Fuego, and others the +Straits of Magellan. But the majority were of opinion, that it +was best to wait two months for a fair wind, and to use their +utmost endeavours to get into the South Sea. On the 8th they were +in 61° S. on the 14th in 58°, and on the 18th, 19th and +20th they had a fair wind at S.E. with warm weather, so that they +were now in hopes of having accomplished their purpose. On the +24th they lost sight of the Maurice and David, the fleet being +now reduced to seven sail; and the same evening they were in lat. +47° S. The 25th, having still a fair wind and good weather, +they reached 45° S. and were then in great hopes of +overcoming all difficulties. The 28th they got sight of the coast +of Chili, bearing E.S.E. and in the evening were within a league +of the shore, which appeared high and mountainous.</p> + +<p>SECTION II:</p> + +<p><i>Transactions of the Fleet on the Western Coast of +America</i>.</p> + +<p>The admiral was at this time confined to bed, and wished to +have put into the port of Chiloe; but his instructions did not +allow of this measure, requiring the performance of some action +of importance against the Spaniards in Peru. It was therefore +resolved to proceed for the island of Juan Fernandez, to make the +best preparations in their power for attacking the Spanish +galleons in the port of Arica, if found there, and to gain +possession of that place, after which it was proposed to extend +their conquests by the aid of the Indians. On the 1st April, +being then in lat. 38° 10' S. the vice-admiral took to his +bed, quite worn out with fatigue, so that they expected to lose +both the admiral and him. On the 4th they had sight of Juan +Fernandez, in lat. 33° 50' S. and next day came to anchor in +sixty fathoms in a fine bay. The 6th orders were issued to +provide all the ships with as many cheveaux-de-frize and +pallisades as they could. The Griffin joined the fleet in the +evening, not having been seen since the 2d February. She had been +in the lat. of 60° S. and had got into the South Sea without +seeing Cape Horn. The Orange arrived on the 7th, having twice +seen the southern continent on her passage, once in lat. 50°, +and the other time in lat. 41° S.[138] The David came in on +the 7th, bringing advice of the Maurice, both vessels having been +five or six days beating about the island, but hindered from +getting in by contrary winds.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 138: No land whatever could be seen in +these latitudes in the eastern Pacific, so that they must have +been deceived by fog, banks, or islands of ice.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The larger and more easterly of the two islands of Juan +Fernandez is in the latitude of 30° 40' S. five degrees west +from the coast of Chili; this island being called by the +Spaniards <i>Isla de Tierra</i>, and the smaller or more westerly +island <i>Isla de Fuera</i>, which is a degree and a half farther +east.[139]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 139: Isola de Tierra, the eastermost of +these islands of Juan Fernandez, in lat. 33° 42' S. and long. +79° 5' E. is about 15 English miles from E. to W. by 5-1/2 +miles in its greatest breadth from N. to S. Besides this and +Isola de Fuera, mentioned in the text, there is still a third, or +smallest island, a mile and a half south from the S.W. end of the +Isola de Tierra, called Isola de Cabras or Conejos, Goat or +Rabbit island, three English miles from N.W. to S.E. and a mile +in breadth.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The more easterly and larger island, at which the Nassau fleet +anchored, is about six leagues in circuit, and is about two +leagues and a half long, from east to west. The road is on the +N.E. part of the island, from whence there is a beautiful +prospect of valleys covered with clover. The ground of this bay +is in some places rocky, and in others a fine black sand, and it +affords good anchorage in thirty to thirty-five fathoms. The +island produces excellent water, and fish are to be had in +abundance in the bay, and of various kinds. Many thousand seals +and sea-lions come daily on shore to bask in the sun, of which +the seamen killed great numbers, both for food and amusement. +Some of the Dutch fancied that the flesh of these animals tasted +as if twice cooked, while others thought, after the grease and +tallow were carefully taken out, that it was as good as mutton. +There were many goats in the island, but difficult to be taken, +and neither so fat nor so well tasted as those of St Vincents. +There were plenty of palm-trees in the interior, and three large +quince-trees near the bay, the fruit of which was very +refreshing. They found also plenty of timber for all kinds of +uses, but none fit for masts. Formerly, ten or twelve Indians +used to reside here, for the sake of fishing and making oil from +the seals and sea-lions, but it was now quite uninhabited. Three +gunners and three soldiers belonging to the vice-admiral, were so +sick of the voyage, that they asked and obtained leave to remain +here.</p> + +<p>Every thing being in readiness, the fleet departed from +<i>Isla de Tierra</i> on the 13th April. On the 8th May, being +near the coast of Peru, they took a Spanish bark, in which, +besides the captain, there were four Spaniards, and six or seven +Indians and Negroes. From these, they learnt that the Plate fleet +had sailed on the 3d of the month from Calao de Lima for Panama, +consisting of five treasure ships, three rich merchantmen, and +two men of war. They were also informed that the Spanish admiral +was still at Calao, his ship being of 800 tons burden, and +mounting 40 brass cannon; besides which, there were two +<i>pataches</i> of 14 guns each, and forty or fifty unarmed +merchant vessels. All these vessels were said to have been hauled +on shore, and secured by three strong batteries and other works, +furnished with upwards of fifty pieces of cannon, all ready +prepared for the reception of the Dutch, of whose motions the +Spaniards had received early and certain intelligence. The +viceroy had likewise formed four companies of foot, of eighty men +each, but the two best companies had gone with the ships to +Panama; and, having just learnt the approach of the Dutch fleet, +the viceroy had summoned the whole military force of Peru, so +that many thousand men must soon be expected at Lima for its +defence.</p> + +<p>After several consultations, the vice-admiral made an attempt +to land at Calao with the soldiers on the morning of the 10th +May, but finding it impossible with any chance of success, was +obliged to return to the fleet. On the 12th about midnight, three +of the Dutch captains, with twelve armed boats, each provided +with a small cannon and a considerable quantity of fire-works, +made an attack on the port, while a false attack was made at the +same time in another part, to draw off the attention of the +Spaniards. The twelve boats entered the port, and distributed +their fire-works plentifully among the Spanish merchant ships, by +which thirty or forty of them were set on fire and consumed, some +of them very large. In this hardy enterprise, the Dutch had seven +men killed, and fifteen wounded, mostly in the vice-admiral's +boat, which had attempted to board one of the <i>pataches</i> and +was beaten off. About the dawn of day, nine of the flaming ships +drifted towards the Dutch fleet, which was therefore obliged to +weigh and take shelter behind the island of Lima. On the 13th +this island was taken possession of, and a strong intrenchment +thrown up for its defence, under cover of which the Dutch laid +their shallops on shore to careen them.</p> + +<p>On the 14th Cornelius Jacobson sailed with a division of the +fleet, to cruize off La Nasca, Pisco, and other towns to the +south of Lima. A rich prize was taken on the 23d, coming from +Guayaquil; and that same day, the rear-admiral was detached with +two ships and two companies of soldiers to attempt taking +Guayaquil, but they found it too strongly defended. On the 27th +an attempt was made to destroy the Spanish admiral's ship in the +port of Calao, by means of a fire-ship containing 2000 pounds of +gun-powder, besides fire-works and shells, confined by a brick +arch six feet thick; but after navigating her very near the +galleon, a bank was found on the outside of her which they could +not pass, and they were therefore obliged to retire.</p> + +<p>Admiral Jaques Le Hermite, who had been in a declining state +of health from the time they left Sierra Leona, died on the 2d +June, and was buried next day in the island of Lima. The Spanish +viceroy having refused to ransom the prisoners made by the Dutch, +and the ships being straitened for provisions especially water, +twenty-one Spaniards were hung up at the mizen yard-arm of the +Dutch admiral's ship on the 15th June. That same evening, +Cornelius Jacobson returned with his detachment, having made an +ineffectual attempt on Pisco, which he found strongly fortified, +and defended by 2000 men, besides a body of 200 horse which +scoured the country. In this attempt he had five men killed and +sixteen wounded, and thirteen deserted to the enemy. At this time +the scurvy prevailed to a great height in the fleet, so that some +of the ships had not sufficient men in a sound state to man their +boats; but one day a Swiss, who was very ill of the scurvy, +scrambled up to the top of the highest hill in the island of +Lima,[140] where he found plenty of a kind of herb with which he +had been well acquainted in his own country, and by eating which +he soon recovered his health. This becoming public, his example +was universally followed, by which the best part of the men were +saved from death, and in a short time recovered their health and +spirits. On the 5th August, the vice-admiral was installed as +admiral, the rear-admiral succeeding him as vice-admiral, and +Cornelius Jacobson was advanced to be rear-admiral.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 140: The island of San Lorenzo, a little to +the south of Calao, is evidently here meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The new vice-admiral soon after returned from his expedition +to the road of Puna and Guayaquil, where he had burnt two ships +and captured a third. He had also taken Guayaquil after +considerable loss, and finding it untenable, and not having boats +to carry away the booty, he had set it on fire, burning a great +quantity of rich goods in the warehouses, after which he +reimbarked his men. The Dutch fleet sailed from the island of +Lima on the 14th of August, and anchored that same evening in a +bay behind the Piscadores islands, about twenty-three miles +north, where they watered. Continuing their course on the 16th, +they came in sight of the island of Santa Clara, or Amortajado, +on the 24th, intending once more to visit Guayaquil. The fleet +anchored on the 25th in the road of the island of Puna, whence +all the people had fled, both Spanish and Indians, so that no +intelligence could be procured of the strength and dispositions +of the enemy. On the 27th, the guns, ballast, and stores of all +kinds were removed from three of the largest ships, which were +laid ashore to be careened. On the 28th, news came of the second +attempt upon Guayaquil having miscarried, through the fault of +some of the officers, the troops being defeated and obliged to +reimbark, with the loss of twenty-eight men. On the 1st +September, the three largest ships being careened, they began to +careen the rest.</p> + +<p>It was resolved in a council of war not to prosecute the +originally intended expedition to Chili at this time, but to +proceed for Acapulco, in order to cruize for the Manilla ship; +and afterwards, if the condition of the fleet permitted, to +return to the coast of Chili. Accordingly, having set fire to the +town of Puna, they sailed from thence on the 12th September, and +on the 20th October had sight of the coast of New Spain. On the +28th at day-break they were within half a league of an island +which lies before the port of Acapulco and anchored in the +evening within sight of the fort, which had been rebuilt the year +before, on a point running out to sea, in order to protect the +Manilla ships, which might ride safely at anchor under the cannon +of that fortress. On the 1st November, a strong detachment of the +fleet was sent to anchor twenty leagues west from Acapulco, to +look out for the galleon, the admiral and the Orange remaining +before the port, and the other ships spread along the coast, that +they might be sure of intercepting the galleon. On the 29th, +water becoming scarce, and no appearance of the galleon, it was +resolved to proceed with all diligence for the East Indies.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Voyage Home from the Western Coast of America</i>.</p> + +<p>Proceeding therefore across the Great Pacific Ocean, they saw +some very low land towards the west on the 15th January, 1625, +over which the sea broke with great violence, and which they +conjectured to be the island of Galperico.[141] On the 23d the +scurvy had made much progress, that there were hardly men enough +to work the ships. In the evening of the 25th, they were off the +coast of Guam, one of the Ladrones or Mariane islands, the +inhabitants coming two leagues out to sea to meet them, with all +sorts of refreshments, which they exchanged for old iron, and +next morning 150 canoes came off with fruits and garden stuffs. +On the 27th a good watering-place was found, where fifty soldiers +were landed to protect the seamen. In the beginning of February, +the natives brought them considerable quantities of rice, giving +70 or 80 pounds weight in exchange for an old hatchet. On the +5th, by a general muster, 1260 men were found to remain in the +fleet, including 32 Spanish and Negro prisoners, so that they had +lost 409 since leaving Holland.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 141: The relation of the voyage is too +vague even to conjecture what island is here meant, but from the +direction of the course towards Guam or Guaham it may possibly +have been that now called Dawson's island, about 600 leagues +nearly east from Guam.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The island of Guam, Guaham, or Guaci, one of the group named +by the Spaniards <i>Islas de las Velas, Ladrones</i>, or +<i>Mariane</i> Islands, is in lat 13° 40' N.[142] The soil is +tolerably fertile producing vast quantities of cocoas, and the +natives grow rice in several places. The Dutch procured here +about 2000 fowls, but the natives would not part with their +cattle for any price. The people of this island are larger than +other Indians' strong and well-proportioned, and are mostly +painted red, the men going entirely naked, and the women having a +leaf to cover their nakedness. Their arms are <i>assagaies</i>, +or javelins and slings, both of which they use with great +dexterity. Their canoes are very convenient, and go before the +wind at a great rate; neither are these islanders afraid of +putting to sea even in a storm; as, in case of their vessels +being overset, they turn them up again immediately, and bale out +the water. They were also very expert in cheating; for when the +Dutch came to examine the bags of rice they had bought so cheap, +they found the insides full of stones and dirt; besides which, +they stole every thing they could lay hold of. Such persons also +as land on this island ought to be very cautious, as the Dutch +had several of their people slain here, through their own +folly.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 142: Lat. 13° 20' N. long. 143° 20' +E. from Greenwich.]</blockquote> + +<p>Proceeding on the voyage, they saw an island on the 14th of +February, in the latitude of 10° 30' N. which they took to be +the island of Saavedra.[143] Next day, about nine in the morning, +they saw another island, not laid down in the charts, in lat. +9° 45' N.[144] the natives of which came out to them in +canoes with fruits and other refreshments, but as the ships were +sailing at a great rate, they were not able to get on board. The +people seemed much like those of Guam, and the island seemed very +populous and highly cultivated. It was now resolved to continue +their course to the island of Gilolo, and thence to Ternate. The +2d March, they had sight of the high mountain of [illegible], on +the coast of Moco, at the west end of the great island of +[illegible] or <i>Gilolo</i>, on the west side of which the +Molucca islands are situated. They arrived at <i>Malaya</i>, the +principal place in Ternate, on the 4th in the evening. The 5th, +or, according to the computation of the inhabitants, the 6th, +Jacob Le Feare, governor of the Moluccas, came to visit the +admiral, from <i>Taluco</i>, where he then resided. The fleet +proceeded on the 4th of April to Amboina, and on the 28th sailed +for Batavia, where they arrived on the 29th of August. Here the +fleet was separated, part being sent on an expedition against +Malacca, and others to other places, so that here the voyage of +the Nassau fleet may be said to end, without having completed the +circumnavigation, at least in an unbroken series.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 143: The island of Saavedra is in 10° +30'N. Not far from this is the isle of [illegible] in Lat. +10° 10' N. and Long. [illegible] E. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 144: This probably was the isle of +[illegible], mentioned in the previous note.--E.]</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>After this expedition, there occurs a wide chasm in the +history of circumnavigations, all that was attempted in this way, +for many years afterwards, being more the effect of chance than +of design.--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-8" id="chapter4-8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, IN 1683-1691, BY CAPTAIN JOHN COOKE, +ACCOMPANIED BY CAPTAIN COWLEY, AND CAPTAIN WILLIAM +DAMPIER.[145]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>In the Collection of Voyages and Travels by Harris, this +voyage is made two separate articles, as if two distinct voyages, +one under the name of Captain Cowley, and the other under that of +Dampier; though both are avowedly only separate relations of the +same voyage, which was commanded by Captain Cooke, and ought to +have gone under his name. On the present occasion both relations +are retained, for reasons which will appear sufficiently obvious +in the sequel; but we have placed both in one chapter, because +only a single circumnavigation, though somewhat branched out by +the separation of the original adventures. This chapter is +divided into three sections: the <i>first</i> of which contains +the narrative of the principal voyage, so far as related by +Captain Cowley; along with which the observations of Dampier upon +many of the places, visited during the voyage, are introduced. +The <i>second</i> continues the adventures of Cowley on his +return from India to Europe, after separating from his first +companions. The <i>third</i> resumes the relation of the voyage, +as written by Dampier, and gives a continuation of the +enterprise, after the separation of Cowley.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 145: Dampier's Voyage round the World, and +Cowley's do. both in a Coll. of Voyages in four vols. 8vo, +published at London in 1729. Also Harris, I. 77. and Callender, +II. 528.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the remainder of this introduction, taken from the +Collection by Harris, an account is given of the origin of this +voyage, together with a sketch of the previous adventures of +Dampier, before engaging in this enterprise, in both of which are +contained some notices of the lawless, yet famous Buccaneers, +respecting whom a more detailed account is proposed to be +inserted in a subsequent division of this work. Dampier published +an account of this voyage, to be found in a Collection of +Voyages, in four volumes 8vo, printed at London in 1729, for +James and John Knapton, and which have been used in preparing the +present relation of this voyage for the press.--E.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>The adventures of the <i>Buccaneers of America</i>, however +blameable, will render these men ever famous by their wonderful +exploits. They usually fitted out small vessels in some of our +colonies of America, and cruised in these till they were able to +make prize of some larger ships. As their designs required the +utmost secrecy, they very often took masters and pilots on board +under false pretences, and did not explain to them the true +nature of their expeditions till out to sea, when they were +absolute masters. This was the case with Captain Cowley on the +present occasion, a very intelligent man and able navigator, who +happened to be in Virginia in 1683, and was prevailed upon to go +as master of a privateer, said to be bound for <i>Petit +Goave</i>, a French port in the island of St Domingo, where these +people used to take commissions. In reality, however, their +purpose was to take what prizes they could, without the formality +of a commission.</p> + +<p>It is proper to state, that this voyage, at least in part, is +the same with the <i>first</i> voyage of Captain Dampier round +the world. Before proceeding to the incidents of the voyage, we +shall give a concise account of the grounds on which it was +undertaken, and the commanders who were engaged in it; and this +the rather, that the original journal of Captain Cowley, +published by Captain Hacke, gives very little information on +these subjects, probably because Cowley was ashamed of having +engaged in such an expedition.</p> + +<p>Among the Buccaneers who did so much mischief in the Spanish +West Indies, was one John Cooke, a native of the island of St +Christophers, a brisk bold man, who so distinguished himself as +to be promoted to the rank of quarter-master in the ship +commanded by Captain Yankey. On taking a Spanish prize, which was +converted into a privateer, Cooke claimed the command of her, +according to the custom, of the Buccaneers; and being extremely +popular, soon engaged a sufficient number of men to serve under +him. The great majority of the Buccaneers at this time being +French, and dissatisfied to see an Englishman invested with such +a command, merely by the choice of the crew, without any +commission, they plundered the English of their ships, goods, and +arms, and turned them ashore on the island of <i>Avache</i>, on +the coast of St Domingo, usually called <i>Ash</i> by English +seamen. On this occasion, an old Buccaneer, named Captain +<i>Tristian</i>, having more humanity than the rest, carried +Captain Davis, Captain Cooke, and eight other Englishmen to Petit +Goave; where, while Captain Tristian and many of his men were +ashore, these Englishmen made themselves masters of the ship, +sending all the French in their turn ashore, and sailed to +Avache, where, by using Captain Tristian's name to the governor, +they procured all the rest of their countrymen to be sent on +board.</p> + +<p>Being now sufficiently strong to set up for themselves, they +resolved to make prize of whatever came in their way, and +accordingly took two French ships, one laden with wine, and the +other of considerable force, in which they embarked, carrying her +and their prize goods to Virginia, where they arrived in April +1683. After selling their wines and other goods, they purchased +provisions, naval stores, and every thing else that might be +wanted during a long voyage, and fitted out their prize ship as a +privateer, naming her the Revenge. According to the narrative of +Cowley, she carried eight guns and 52 men, while Dampier gives +her 18 guns and 70 men.[146]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 146: This difference, at least in regard to +the size and force of the ship, will be found explained in the +sequel, as they took a larger ship on the coast of Africa, which +they used during the voyage, and named the Revenge after their +own ship. The additional number of men mentioned by Dampier is +not accounted for.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Before proceeding to the narratives of this voyage, it is +proper to give a concise account of Captain William Dampier, +extracted from his own works, being an extraordinary character +and an eminent navigator, whose many discoveries ought to +recommend his memory to posterity, as a man of infinite industry, +and of a most laudable public spirit. Captain William Dampier was +descended of a very respectable family in the county of Somerset, +where he was born in 1652. During the life of his father and +mother, he had such education as was thought requisite to fit him +for trade; but losing his parents while very young, and being of +a roving disposition, which strongly incited him to the sea, +those who now had the care of him resolved to comply with his +humour, and bound him about 1669 to the master of a ship who +lived at Weymouth, in Dorsetshire. With this master he made a +voyage to France that year, and in the next went to Newfoundland; +but was so pinched by the severity of that climate, that on his +return he went home to his friends, almost tired of the sea. Soon +after his return, however, hearing of a ship bound for the East +Indies from London, he went there in 1670, and entered before the +mast in the John and Martha, in which he made a voyage to +Bantam.</p> + +<p>He returned to England in January, 1672, and retired to the +house of his brother in Somersetshire, where he remained all the +ensuing summer. In 1673, he entered on board the Prince Royal, +commanded by the famous Sir Edward Spragge, and was in two +engagements that summer against the Dutch. He afterwards returned +to his brother's house, where he met with one Colonel Hellier, +who had a large estate in Jamaica, and who persuaded him to go +over to that island, where he was some time employed in the +management of that gentleman's plantation. Not liking the life of +a planter, which he continued somewhat more than a year, he +engaged among the logwood cutters, and embarked from Jamaica for +Campeachy, in August 1675, but returned to Jamaica in the end of +that year. In February 1676, he went again to Campeachy, where he +acquainted himself thoroughly with the business of logwood +cutting, in which he proposed to advance his fortune; for which +purpose he returned to England in 1678. While in Campeachy, he +became acquainted with some Buccaneers, who gave him an +inclination for that kind of life, in which he was afterwards +engaged, but of which in the sequel he became much ashamed.</p> + +<p>He returned from England to Jamaica in April 1679, intending +to become a complete logwood cutter and trader at the bay of +Campeachy; but changed his mind, and laid out most part of what +he was worth in purchasing a small estate in Dorsetshire. He then +agreed with one Hobby to make a trip to the continent, before +returning to England. Soon after commencing this voyage, coming +to anchor in Negril bay at the west end of Jamaica, they found +there Captains Coxon, Sawkins, Sharpe, and other privateers, with +whom all Mr Hobby's men entered, leaving only Mr Dampier, who +also at length consented to go with them. This was about the end +of 1679, and their first expedition was against Portobello. This +being accomplished, they resolved to cross the isthmus of Darien, +and to pursue their predatory courses against the Spaniards in +the South Sea. On the 5th April, 1680, they landed near <i>Golden +Island</i>, between three and four hundred strong; and carrying +with them sufficient provisions, and some toys to gratify the +Indians, through whose country they had to pass, they arrived in +nine days march at <i>Santa Maria</i>, which they easily took, +but found neither gold nor provisions, as they expected.</p> + +<p>After staying three days at Santa Maria, they embarked in +canoes and other small craft for the South Sea. They came in +sight of Panama on the 23d April, and in vain attempted to take +<i>Puebla Nova</i>, where their commander Captain Sawkins was +slain. They then withdrew to the isles of <i>Quibo</i>, whence +they sailed on the 6th June for the coast of Peru; and touching +at the islands of <i>Gorgonia</i> and <i>Plata</i>, they came in +the month of October to <i>Ylo</i>, which they took. About +Christmas of that year they arrived at the island of Juan +Fernandez, where they deposed Captain Sharpe, who had the chief +command after the death of Sawkins, and elected Captain Watling +in his stead. Under his command they made an attempt upon Arica, +but were repulsed with the loss of twenty-eight men, among whom +was their new commander Watling. After this they sailed for some +time without any commander; and, arriving at the island of +<i>Plata</i>, they split into two factions about the choice of a +new commander. Before proceeding to the election, it was agreed +that the majority, together with the new commander, should keep +the ship, and the minority should content themselves with the +canoes and other small craft. On the poll, Captain Sharpe was +restored, and Mr Dampier, who had voted against him, prepared, +together with his associates, to return over land to the Gulf of +Mexico.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, on the 17th April, 1681, they quitted Captain +Sharpe, without electing any commander, and resolved to repass +the Isthmus of Darien, though only forty-seven men. This was one +of the boldest enterprises ever ventured upon by so small a +number of men, yet they succeeded without any considerable loss. +Landing on the continent on the 1st of May, they repassed the +isthmus in twenty-three days; and on the 24th embarked in a +French privateer, commanded by Captain Tristian, with whom they +joined a fleet of nine buccaneers, on board of which were nearly +600 men. With this great force they were in hopes of doing great +things against the Spaniards; but, owing to various accidents, +and especially to disagreement among the commanders, they had +very little success. Dampier and his companions, who had returned +over land from the South Sea, made themselves masters of a +<i>tartan</i>, and, electing Captain Wright to the command, they +cruised along the Spanish coast with some success, and went to +the Dutch settlement of Curaçoa, where they endeavoured to +sell a good quantity of sugar they had taken in a Spanish ship. +Not being able to effect this purpose, they continued their +voyage to the Tortugas islands, and thence to the Caraccas, where +they captured three barks, one laden with hides, another with +European commodities, and the third with earthenware and +brandy.</p> + +<p>With these prizes they sailed to the island of <i>Roca</i>, +where they shared them, and then resolved to separate, though +only consisting of sixty men. Twenty of these, among whom was +Dampier, proceeded with their share of the goods in one of these +barks to Virginia, where they arrived in July, 1682. After +continuing there some time, a considerable part of them made a +voyage to Carolina, whence they returned to Virginia. Having +spent the best part of their wealth, they were now ready to +proceed upon any plan that might offer for procuring more. Soon +after Captain Cooke, of whom some account has been already given, +came to Virginia with his prize, and published his intention of +going into the South Sea to cruise against the Spaniards. +Dampier, who was his old acquaintance, and knew him to be an able +commander, readily agreed to go with him, and induced most of his +companions to do the same, which was of much consequence to +Cooke, as it furnished him with a full third of his crew.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage by Captain Cowley, till he quitted +the Revenge on the Western Coast of America</i>.[147]</p> + +<p>They sailed from Achamack in Virginia on the 23d August, 1683, +taking their departure from Cape Charles in the Revenge of eight +guns and fifty-two men, John Cooke commander, and bound for the +South Sea; but Captain Cowley, who had charge of the navigation +of the Revenge as master, not being then let into the secret +object of the enterprise, steered a course for Petit Goave in St +Domingo, in which he was indulged for the first day, but was then +told that they were bound in the first place for the coast of +Guinea. He then steered E.S.E. for the Cape de Verd islands, and +arrived at <i>Isola de Sal</i>, or the Salt island, in the month +of September. They here found neither fruits nor water, but great +plenty of fish, and some goats, but the last were very small. At +this time the island, which is in the latitude of 16° 50' N. +and longitude 23° W. from Greenwich, was very oddly +inhabited, and as strangely governed. Its whole inhabitants +consisted of four men and a boy, and all the men were dignified +with titles. One, a mulatto, was governor, two were captains, and +the fourth lieutenant, the boy being their only subject, servant, +and soldier. They procured here about twenty bushels of salt, the +only commodity of the island, which they paid for in old clothes, +and a small quantity of powder and shot; and in return for three +or four goats, gave the governor a coat, of which he was in great +want, and an old hat. The salt in which this island abounds, and +from which it derives its name, is formed naturally by the heat +of the sun from the sea-water, which is let into great ponds +about two English miles in extent.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 147: The original narrative of this voyage, +written by Captain Cowley, is contained in the fourth volume of +the Collection of Voyages published in 1729 by James and John +Knapton, usually denominated Dampier's Voyages, and has been used +on the present occasion.--E]</blockquote> + +<p>This island is about nine leagues from N. to S. and about two +leagues from E. to W. and has abundance of salt ponds, whence it +derives its name, but produces no trees, and hardly even any +grass, some few poor goats feeding scantily upon shrubs near the +sea. It is frequented by wild fowl, especially a reddish bird +named <i>Flamingo</i>, shaped like a heron, but much larger, +which lives in ponds and muddy places, building their nests of +mud in shallow pools of standing waters. Their nests are raised +like conical hillocks, two feet above the water, having holes on +the top, in which they lay their eggs, and hatch them while +standing on their long legs in the water, covering the nest and +eggs only with their rumps. The young ones do not acquire their +true colour, neither can they fly till ten or eleven months old, +but run very fast. A dozen or more of these birds were killed, +though very shy, and their flesh was found lean and black, though +not ill tasted. Their tongues are large, and have near the root a +piece of fat, which is esteemed a dainty.</p> + +<p>From hence they sailed to the island of St Nicholas, +twenty-two leagues W.S.W. from the island of Salt, and anchored +on the S.W. side of the island, which is of a triangular form, +the longest side measuring thirty leagues, and the two others +twenty leagues each. They here found the governor a white man, +having three or four people about him, who were decently +cloathed, and armed with swords and pistols, but the rest of his +attendants were in a very pitiful condition. They dug some wells +on shore, and traded for goats, fruits, and wine, which last was +none of the best. The country near the coast is very indifferent, +but there are some fine valleys in the interior, pretty well +inhabited, and abounding in all the necessaries of life.</p> + +<p>The principal town of this island is in a valley, fourteen +miles from the bay in which the Revenge came to anchor, and +contains about 100 families, the inhabitants being of a swarthy +complexion. The country on the sea is rocky and barren, but in +the interior there are several vallies, having plenty of grass, +and in which vines are cultivated. The wine is of a pale colour, +and tastes somewhat like Madeira, but is rather thick.</p> + +<p>From thence they went to Mayo, another of the Cape de Verd +islands, forty miles E.S.E. from St Nicholas, and anchored on its +north side. They wished to have procured some beef and goats at +this island, but were not permitted to land, because one Captain +Bond of Bristol had not long before, under the same pretence, +carried away some of the principal inhabitants. This island is +small, and its shores are beset with shoals, yet it has a +considerable trade in salt and cattle. In May, June, July, and +August, a species of sea-tortoises lay their eggs here, but are +not nearly so good as those of the West Indies. The inhabitants +cultivate some potatoes, plantains, and corn, but live very +poorly, like all the others in the Cape de Verd islands.</p> + +<p>After continuing here five or six days, they resolved to go to +the island of St Jago, in hopes of meeting some ship in the road, +intending to cut her cable and run away with her. They +accordingly stood for the east part of that island, where they +saw from the top-mast head, over a point of land, a ship at +anchor in the road, which seemed fit for their purpose: but, by +the time they had got near her, her company clapped a spring upon +her cable, struck her ports, and run out her lower tier of guns, +on which Cooke bore away as fast as he could. This was a narrow +escape, as they afterwards learnt that this ship was a Dutch East +Indiaman of 50 guns and 400 men.</p> + +<p>This is by far the best of the Cape de Verd islands, four or +five leagues west from Mayo; and, though mountainous, is the best +peopled, having a very good harbour on its east side, much +frequented by ships bound from Europe for the East Indies and the +coast of Guinea, as also by Portuguese ships bound to Brazil, +which come here to provide themselves with beef, pork, goats, +fowls, eggs, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, in exchange for shirts, +drawers, handkerchiefs, hats, waistcoats, breeches, and all sorts +of linen, which are in great request among the natives, who are +much addicted to theft. There is here a fort on the top of a +hill, which commands the harbour. This island has two towns of +some size, and produces the same sort of wine with St +Nicholas.</p> + +<p>There are two other islands, Fogo and Brava, both small, and +to the west of St Jago. Fogo is remarkable, as being an entire +burning mountain, from the top of which issues a fire which may +be seen a great way off at sea in the night. This island has a +few inhabitants, who live on the sea-coast at the foot of the +mountain, and subsist on goats, fowls, plantains, and cocoa-nuts. +The other islands of this group are St Antonio, St Lucia, St +Vincent, and Bona Vista.</p> + +<p>They sailed thence for the coast of Guinea, and, being near +Cape Sierra Leona, they fell in with a new-built ship of forty +guns, well furnished with water, all kinds of provisions, and +brandy, which they boarded and carried away.[148]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 148: They appear to have named this ship +the Revenge, and to have destroyed their original +vessel.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From thence they went to Sherbro river, also on the coast of +Guinea, where they trimmed all their empty casks and filled them +with water, not intending to stop any where again for water till +their arrival at Juan Fernandez in the South Sea. There was at +this time an English factory in the Sherbro river, having a +considerable trade in <i>Cam-wood</i>, which is used in dying +red; but the adventurers do not appear to have had any +intercourse with their countrymen at this place. They were well +received, however, by the negro inhabitants of a considerable +village on the sea-shore, near the mouth of this river, who +entertained Cowley and his companions with palm-wine, in a large +hut in the middle of the town, all the rest of the habitations +being small low huts. These negroes also brought off considerable +supplies to the ship, of rice, fowls, honey, and sugar canes, +which they sold to the buccaneers for goods found in the vessel +they had seized at Sierra Leona.</p> + +<p>Going from thence in the month of December, along the coast of +Guinea, to the latitude of 12° S. they crossed the Atlantic +to the opposite coast of Brazil, where they came to soundings on +a sandy bottom at eighty fathoms deep. Sailing down the coast of +Brazil, when in lat. 4° S. they observed the sea to be as red +as blood, occasioned by a prodigious shoal of red shrimps, which +lay upon the water in great patches for many leagues together. +They likewise saw vast numbers of seals, and a great many whales. +Holding on their course to lat. 47° S. they discovered an +island not known before, which Cowley named <i>Pepy's +Island</i>,[149] in honour of Samuel Pepys, secretary to the Duke +of York when Lord High Admiral of England, a great patron of +seamen. This island has a very good harbour, in which 1000 ships +might ride at anchor, and is a very commodious place for +procuring both wood and water. It abounded in sea-fowl, and the +shore, being either rocks or sand, promised fair for fish.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 149: An island in the southern Atlantic, in +lat. 46° 34' S. called <i>Isle Grande</i>, is supposed to be +the discovery of Cowley. According to Dalrymple, it is in long. +46° 40' W. while the map published along with Cook's Voyages +places it in long. 35° 40' W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In January 1684 they bore away for the Straits of Magellan, +and on the 28th of that month fell in with the <i>Sebaldine</i> +or Falkland islands, in lat. 51° 25' S. Then steering S.W. by +W. to the lat. of 53° S. they made the Terra del Fuego. +Finding great ripplings near the Straits of Le Maire, they +resolved to go round the east end of States Land, as had been +done by Captain Sharp in 1681, who first discovered it to be an +island, naming it <i>Albemarle</i> island. A prodigious storm +came on upon the 14th February, which lasted between a fortnight +and three weeks, and drove them into lat. 63° 30' S. This +storm was attended by such torrents of rain, that they saved +twenty-three barrels of water, besides dressing their victuals +all that time in rain water.[150] The weather also was so +excessively cold, that they could bear to drink three quarts of +burnt brandy a man in twenty-four hours, without being +intoxicated.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 150: It was discovered by the great +navigator Captain Cook, who at one time penetrated to lat. +71° 10' S. that the solid ice found at sea in high southern +latitudes affords perfectly fresh water, when the first meltings +are thrown away.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>When the storm abated, they steered N.E. being then +considerably to the west of Cape Horn, and got again into warm +weather. In lat. 40° S. they fell in with an English ship, +the Nicholas of London, of 26 guns, commanded by Captain John +Eaton, with whom they joined company. They sailed together to the +island of Juan Fernandez, where they arrived on the 23d March, +and anchored in a bay at the south end of the island in +twenty-five fathoms. Captain Watling, who succeeded Captain +Sharp, was there in 1680, and named it <i>Queen Catharine's</i> +island. At his departure, he accidentally left a Moskito Indian, +who still remained, having a gun, a knife, a small flask of +powder, and some shot. In this desolate condition, he found it +equally hard to provide for his subsistence, and to conceal +himself from the Spaniards, who had notice of his being left +there, and came several times to take him. He had chosen a +pleasant valley for his residence, about half a mile from the +coast, where he had erected a very convenient hut, well lined +with seal-skins, and had a bed of the same, raised about two feet +above the ground. By the help of a flint, he had converted his +knife into a saw, with which he had cut the barrel of his gun to +pieces, which he fashioned into harpoons, lances, fishing-hooks, +and a long knife, by heating them in a fire. All this cost him +much labour, but enabled him to live in sufficient comfort. On +seeing the ships at sea, he guessed them to be English, and +immediately dressed two goats, and a large quantity of cabbage, +to entertain them on landing. He was also much pleased, when they +landed on the island, to see two of his old acquaintances, +Captains Cooke and Dampier, who had belonged to the ship by which +he was left on the island.</p> + +<p>The island of Juan Fernandez is in lat. 34° 15' S. +[33° 42'] about 420 English miles from the coast of Chili. +The whole island is a pleasant mixture of hills and vallies, the +sides of the hills partly covered with wood, and partly savannas, +or places naturally clear of wood, bearing fine grass. Among the +woods are what are called cabbage-trees, but not so large as in +other parts of the world. The goats which feed on the west end of +the island are much fatter and better than those at the east end, +though the latter has better and greater plenty of grass, with +abundance of excellent water in the vallies, while the west end +is a dry plain, the grass scanty and parched, and has hardly any +wood or fresh water. Though fertile, this island has no +inhabitants, who might live here in plenty, as the plain is able +to maintain a great number of cattle, and the sea affords vast +quantities of seals, sea-lions, snappers, and rock-fish. The +sea-lions are not much unlike seals, but much larger, being +twelve or fourteen feet long, and as thick as a large ox. They +have no hair, and are of a dun colour, with large eyes, their +teeth being three inches long. One of these animals will yield a +considerable quantity of oil, which is sweet and answers well for +frying. They feed on fish, yet their flesh is tolerably good. The +snapper is a fish having a large head, mouth, and gills, the back +red, the belly ash-coloured, and its general appearance +resembling a roach, but much larger, its scales being as broad as +a shilling. The rock-fish, called <i>baccalao</i> by the +Spaniards, because resembling the cod, is rounder than the +former, and of a dark-brown colour, with small scales, and is +very good food, being found in vast abundance on the coasts of +Peru and Chili. This island has only two bays fit for anchorage, +with a rivulet of fresh water in each, and both at the east end, +and so conveniently situated that they might easily be fortified, +and defended by a slender force against a powerful army, being +inaccessible from the west, by reason of the high mountains. Five +Englishmen, left by Captain Davies, secured themselves here +against a great number of Spaniards.</p> + +<p>After remaining fourteen days at this island, they left it on +the 8th April, 1684, steering N.N.E. till off the bay of Arica, +whence they sailed to Cape Blanco, in hopes of meeting the +Spanish Plate fleet from Panama; but if they had gone into the +bay of Arica, they must have taken a Spanish ship which lay +there, having 300 tons of silver on board. In lat. 10° S. on +the 3d May, they were forced to capture a ship laden with timber, +much against their inclination, lest they should be known through +her means to be on the coast. They then sailed to the southern +island of <i>Lobos</i>, in lat. 70° S. about forty-three +English miles from the coast of Peru, where they landed their +sick for refreshment, heeled their ships, and scraped their +bottoms, to render them fitter for action.</p> + +<p>This island is named <i>Lobos del Mar</i>, to distinguish it +from another which is nearer the continent, and called therefore +<i>Lobos de la Tierra. Lobos del Mar</i> is properly a double +island, each a mile in circuit, separated by a small channel +which will not admit ships of burden. A little way from shore, on +the north side, there are several scattered rocks in the sea, and +at the west end of the eastermost isle is a small sandy creek, in +which ships are secure from the winds, all the rest of the shore +being rocky cliffs. The whole of both islands is rocky and sandy, +having neither wood, water, nor land animals; but it has many +fowls, such as boobies, and above all penguins, about the size of +a duck, and with similar feet; but their bills are pointed, their +wings are mere stumps, which serve them as fins when in the +water, and their bodies are covered with down instead of +feathers. As they feed on fish, they are but indifferent eating, +but their eggs are very good. Penguins are found all over the +South Sea, and at the Cape of Good Hope. The road for ships is +between the before-mentioned rock and the eastmost island.</p> + +<p>They were now very eager to make some capture, as their +provisions, especially water, were very scanty, so that the +subsistence of their prisoners, as well as themselves, gave them +much anxiety. By information of their prisoners, they were also +convinced that their being in these seas was known to the +Spaniards, who consequently would keep all their richest ships in +port. After much consultation, therefore, it was resolved to make +an attempt on Truxillo, in lat. 8° 4' S. a populous city +about six miles from the port of <i>Guanehagno</i>, though the +landing-place was of difficult access, as at that place there was +a strong probability of making a considerable booty. They sailed +therefore with this design on the 18th May, their whole number of +men fit for duty being one hundred and eight. Soon after weighing +anchor, three ships were descried under sail, which they chased +and captured, being laden with flour from Guanehagno to Panama. +In one of them was found a letter from the viceroy of Peru to the +president of Panama, intimating that there were enemies on the +coast, and that he had sent these three ships to supply their +wants. It was also learnt from the prisoners, that the Spaniards +were erecting a fort near their harbour of Guanehagno, in +consequence of which the design on Traxillo was abandoned. +Besides a large loading of flour, the three captured ships had a +good quantity of fruits and sweetmeats, which made them agreeable +prizes to the English, who were now very short of provisions; but +they had landed no less than 800,000 dollars, on hearing that +there were enemies in these seas.</p> + +<p>It was now resolved to carry their prizes to some secure +place, where the best part of the provisions they had now +procured might be laid up in safety, for which purpose they +steered for the <i>Gallapagos</i> or <i>Enchanted +Islands</i>,[151] which they got sight of on the 31st May, and +anchored at night on the east side of one of the easternmost of +these islands, a mile from shore, in sixteen fathoms, on clear +white hard sand. To this Cowley gave the name of <i>King +Charles's Island</i>. He likewise named more of them, as the Duke +of Norfolk's Island immediately under the line, Dessington's, +Eares, Bindley's, Earl of Abington's, King James's, Duke of +Albemarles, and others. They afterwards anchored in a very good +bay being named York Bay. Here they found abundance of excellent +provisions, particularly guanoes and sea and land tortoises, some +of the latter weighing two hundred pounds, which is much beyond +their usual weight. There were also great numbers of birds, +especially turtle-doves, with plenty of wood and excellent water; +but none of either of these was in any of the other +islands.[152]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 151: These islands, so named by the +Spaniards from being the resort of tortoises, are on both sides +of the line, from about the Lat. of 2° N. to 1° 50' S,. +and from about 88° 40' to 95° 20' both W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 152: Cowley mentions having found here a +[illegible] thing of its nature of quantity.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>These Gallapagos are a considerable number of large islands, +situated under and on both sides of the line, and destitute of +inhabitants. The Spaniards, who first discovered them, describe +them as extending from the equator N.W. as high as 5° N. The +adventurers in this voyage saw fourteen or fifteen, some of which +were seven or eight leagues in length, and three or four leagues +broad, pretty high yet flat. Four or five of the most easterly +were barren and rocky, without either trees, herbs, or grass, +except very near the shore. They produced also a sort of shrub, +called dildo-tree, about the bigness of a man's leg, and ten or +twelve feet high, without either fruit or leaves, but covered +with prickles from top to bottom. The only water in these barren +isles, was in ponds and holes in the rocks. Some of the isles are +low and more fertile, producing some of the trees that are known +in Europe. A few of the westermost isles are larger than the +rest, being nine or ten leagues long, and six or seven broad, +producing many trees, especially Mammee figs, and they have also +some pretty large fresh-water streams, and many rivulets. The air +is continually refreshed, by the sea-breeze by day and the +land-winds at night, so that they are not troubled with such +excessive heats, neither are they so unwholesome as most places +so near the equator. During the rainy season, in November, +December, and January, they are infested with violent tempests of +thunder and lightning; but before and after these months have +only refreshing showers, and in their summer, which is in May, +June, July, and August, they are without any rains.</p> + +<p>They anchored near several of these islands, and frequently +found sea tortoises basking in the sun at noon. On a former +occasion, Captain Davies came to anchor on the west side of these +islands, where he and his men subsisted on land-tortoises for +three months, and saved from them sixty jars of oil. He also +found several good channels on that side, with anchorage between +the isles, and several rivulets of fresh water, with plenty of +trees for fuel. The sea also round these islands is well stored +with good fish of a large size, and abounds in sharks. These +islands are better stored with guanoes and land-tortoises than +any other part of the world. The guanoes are very tame, of +extraordinary size, and very fat. The land-tortoises are likewise +very fat, and so numerous that several hundred men might subsist +upon them for a considerable time. They are as pleasant food as a +pullet, and so large that some of them weighed 150 and even 200 +pounds, being two feet to two feet and a half across the belly; +whereas in other places they are seldom met with above 30 pounds +weight. There are several kinds of land-tortoises in the West +Indies, one of which, called <i>Hackatee</i> by the Spaniards, +keeps mostly in fresh-water ponds, having long necks, small legs, +and flat feet, and is usually between ten and fifteen pounds +weight. A second, and much smaller kind, which they call +<i>Tenopen</i>,[153] is somewhat rounder, but not unlike in other +respects, except that their back shells are naturally covered +with curious carved work. The tortoises in the Gallapagos isles +resembles the <i>Hackatee</i>, having long necks and small heads, +but are much larger.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 153: This word in the text is probably a +misprint for <i>Terrapin</i>, a trivial name for a species of +land or fresh-water tortoise, found also in the warmer parts of +North America--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In these islands there are also some green snakes, and great +numbers of remarkably tame turtle-doves, very fat, and excellent +eating. There are large channels between some of these islands, +capable of receiving ships of moderate burden. On the shoals +there grows great abundance of sea-weed, called +<i>turtle-grass</i>, owing to which these channels abound in +<i>green turtles</i> or sea-tortoises. There are several kinds of +turtles or sea-tortoises, as the <i>Trunk, Loggerhead, +Hawksbill</i>, and <i>Green</i> turtles. The first is larger than +the rest, and has a rounder and higher back shell, but is neither +so wholesome nor so well tasted; and the same may be said of the +Loggerhead, which feeds on moss from the rocks, and has its name +from its large head. The Hawksbill, so named from having a long +small mouth, like the beak of a hawk, is the smallest species, +and is that which produces the so-much-admired tortoise-shell, of +which cabinets, boxes, combs, and other things are made in +Europe, and of this shell each has from three to four pounds, +though some have less. The flesh of this kind is but indifferent, +yet better than that of the Loggerheads; though these, which are +taken between the <i>Sambellos</i> and <i>Portobello</i>, make +those who eat the flesh purge and vomit excessively, and the same +is observed of some other fish in the West Indies.</p> + +<p>The laying time of the sea-tortoises is about May, June, and +July, a little sooner or later, and they lay three times each +season, eighty or ninety eggs each time, which are round and as +large as an hen's egg, but covered only with a thin white skin, +having no shell. When a tortoise goes on shore to lay, she is +usually an hour before she returns, as she always chuses her +place above high-water mark, where she makes a large hole with +her fins in the sand, in which she lays her eggs, and then covers +them two feet deep with the sand she had raked out. Sometimes +they go on shore the day before, to take a look of the place, and +are sure to return to the same spot next day. People take the +tortoises on this occasion, while on shore in the night, turning +them over on their backs, above high-water mark, and then return +to fetch them off next morning; but a large Green tortoise will +give work enough to two stout men to turn her over. The Green +tortoise gets its name from the colour of the shell, having a +small round head, and weighs from 200 to 300 pounds. Its flesh is +accounted the best of any, but there are none of this kind in the +South Sea. The sea-tortoises found at the Gallapagos being a +bastard kind of Green tortoises, having thicker shells than those +of the West Indies, and their flesh not so good. They are also +much larger, being frequently two or three feet thick, and their +bellies five feet broad.</p> + +<p>They remained twelve or fourteen days at the Gallapagos, +during which time Captain Cooke lived on shore in a very poor +state of health. They also landed 1500 bags of flour, with a +large quantity of sweetmeats and other provisions, on York +Island, which they might have recourse to on any emergency. From +one of their prisoners, an Indian of <i>Realejo</i>, they had a +flattering account of the riches of that place, which he alleged +might be easily taken, and for which enterprise he offered to +serve them as a guide. Setting sail therefore from the Gallapagos +on the 12th June, they shaped their course in lat 4° 40' N. +with the intention of touching at the <i>Island of Cocos</i>, [in +lat. 5° 27' N. and long. 87° 27' W. from Greenwich.] This +island is seven or eight leagues in circuit, but uninhabited, and +produces a pleasant herb near the sea coast, called +<i>Geamadael</i> by the Spaniards. It is so environed with steep +rocks as to be inaccessible, except on the N.E. where ships may +safely ride in a small bay.</p> + +<p>Missing this island, they continued their course towards the +continent of America, and reached Cape <i>Blanco</i>, or +<i>Trespuntas</i>, on the coast of Mexico, in lat. 9° 56' N. +in the beginning of July. This cape gets the name of +<i>Blanco</i>, or the White Cape, from two high steep taper white +rocks, like high towers, about half a mile distant. The cape +itself is about the same height with Beachy-head, on the coast of +Sussex, being a full broad point jutting out to sea, and +terminated with steep rocks, while both sides have easy descents +to the sea from the flat top, which is covered with tall trees, +and affords a pleasant prospect. On the N.W. side of the cape the +land runs in to the N.E. for four leagues, making a small bay, +called <i>Caldera Bay</i>, at the entrance to which, at the N.W. +side of the cape, a rivulet of fresh water discharges itself into +the sea through very rich low lands abounding in lofty trees. +This rich wooded vale extends a mile N.E. beyond the rivulet, +when a savanna begins, running several leagues into the country, +here and there beautifully interspersed with groves of trees, and +covered with excellent long grass. Deeper into the bay, the low +lands are cloathed with mangroves; but farther into the country +the land is higher, partly covered with woods, and partly +consisting of hilly savannas, not so good as the former, and here +the woods consist of short small trees. From the bottom of this +bay one may travel to the lake of Nicaragua over hilly savannas, +a distance of fourteen, or fifteen leagues.[154]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 154: The bay of Caldera in the text is +evidently the gulf of Nicoya, from the bottom of which the lake +of Nicaragua is distant about fifty English miles due north. The +latitude of Cape Blanco in the text, 9° 56' N. is +considerably erroneous, its true latitude being only 9° +27'N.]</blockquote> + +<p>Captain Cooke had been very ill ever since their departure +from Juan Fernandez, and died as soon as they came within two or +three leagues of Cape Blanco, which indeed is a frequent incident +at sea, as people who have been long ill often die on coming in +sight of land. Coming to anchor a few hours after a league within +the cape, near the mouth of the before-mentioned rivulet, in 14 +fathoms on clear hard sand, his body was immediately carried on +shore for interment, under a guard of twelve armed men. While the +people were digging his grave, they were joined by three Spanish +Indians, who asked many questions, and were at length seized, +though one of them afterwards escaped. The other two were carried +aboard, and confessed that they were sent as spies from Nicoya, a +small Mulatto town twelve or fourteen leagues from the cape, and +seated on the banks of a river of the same name,[155] being a +convenient place for building and refitting ships. The president +of Panama had sent intelligence to this place of the English +being in these seas, in consequence of which the inhabitants, who +mostly subsist by cultivating corn, and by slaughtering great +numbers of cattle which feed on their extensive savannas, had +sent their ox hides to the North Sea by way of the lake of +Nicaragua, as also a certain red wood, called in Jamaica <i>Blood +wood</i>, or Nicaragua wood, which is used in dying. These +commodities are exchanged for linen and woollen manufactures, and +other European goods.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 155: There is no river at Niceya, but it is +seated on a bay or harbour within the gulf of the same +name.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Learning from their prisoners that there was a large cattle +pen at no great distance, where cows and bulls could be had in +abundance, and being very desirous of having some fresh beef +which had long been very rare among them, twenty-four of the +English went ashore in two boats, under the guidance of one of +the Indians, and landed about a league from the ships, hauling +their boats upon the dry sand. Their guide conducted them to the +pen, in a large savanna two miles from the boats, where they +found abundance of bulls and cows feeding. Some of the English +were for killing three or four immediately, but the rest insisted +to wait till morning, and then to kill as many as they needed. On +this difference of opinion, Dampier and eleven more thought +proper to return aboard that night, expecting to be followed by +the rest next day. Hearing nothing of them next day at four p.m. +ten men were sent in a canoe to look for them; when they found +their comrades on a small rock half a mile from the shore, up to +their middles in water, having fled there to escape from forty or +fifty Spaniards, well armed with guns and lances, who had burnt +their boat. They had taken shelter on this rock at low water, and +must have perished in an hour, as it was then flowing tide, if +they had not been relieved by the canoe, which brought them safe +on board.</p> + +<p>On the 19th July, Edward Davis, quarter-master of the Revenge, +was elected captain, in the room of Captain Cooke. They sailed +next day from Cape Blanco towards Realejo, with a moderate breeze +at N. which brought them in three days over against that port, in +lat. 12° 26' N. This place is easily discovered from sea, by +means of a high-peaked burning mountain about ten miles inland, +called by the Spaniards <i>Volcano vejo</i>, or the old volcano, +which is so high that it may be seen twenty leagues out at sea, +besides which there is no other similar mountain on all that +coast. To make this harbour, the mountain must bear N.E. and +keeping this coarse will bring a ship directly into the harbour, +the entrance of which may be seen at three leagues off. This +harbour is inclosed by a low isle, a mile in length, a quarter of +a mile broad, and a mile and a half from the main land. It has a +channel or entrance at each end of the island, that on the east, +being narrow and having a strong tide, is seldom used, but that +on the west is much larger and more commodious. In taking this +entry, however, ships must beware of a certain sandy shoal on the +N.W. point of the isle, and when past this must keep close to the +isle, as a sand-bank runs half way over from the continental +shore. This port is able to contain 200 ships.</p> + +<p>About two leagues from the port, the town of Realejo stands in +a fenny country, full of red mangrove trees, between two arms of +the sea, the westermost of which reaches up to the town, and the +eastermost comes near it, but no shipping can get so far up.[156] +On entering the bay in their canoes, they found the country +apprized of their approach, and fully prepared for their +reception, wherefore the enterprise against Realejo was laid +aside. Pursuant to a consultation between the two commanders, +Eaton and Davis, they sailed on the 27th July for the gulf of +Amapalla or Fonseca.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 156: The account in the text appears +applicable to what is now called <i>El Viejo</i>, or the old +town, nearly 12 miles from the port, but modern Realejo stands +almost close to the entrance of the bay or +harbour.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This is a large gulf or branch of the sea, running eight or +ten leagues into the country, and nearly of the same breadth. The +S.E. extreme point is called Cape <i>Casurina</i>, or +<i>Casiquina</i>, in lat. 12° 53' N. and long. 87° 36' W. +and the N.W. point is Cape Candadillo, in lat. 18° 6' N. and +long. 87° 57' W. Within this bay are several islands, the +principal of these being named <i>Mangeru</i> and +<i>Amapaila</i>. Mangera is a high round island, two leagues in +circuit, inclosed on all sides by rocks, except on its N.E. side, +where there is a small sandy creek. The soil is black and +shallow, full of stones, and produces very lofty trees. It has a +small town or village in the middle inhabited by Indians, and a +handsome Spanish church. The inhabitants cultivate a small +quantity of maize and plantains, having also a few cocks and +hens, but no beasts except dogs and cats. From the creek to the +town there is a steep rocky path. <i>Amapalla</i> resembles the +other isle in soil, but is much larger, and has two towns about +two miles asunder, one on its northern end, and the other on the +east. The latter is on a plain on the summit of a hill, and has a +handsome church. The other town is smaller, but has also a fine +church. In most of the Indian towns under the Spanish dominion, +the images of the saints in their churches are represented of the +Indian complexion, and dressed like Indians; while in the towns +inhabited by Spaniards, the images have the European complexion +and dress. There are many other islands in the bay, but +uninhabited.</p> + +<p>Captain Davis went into the gulf with two canoes to procure +some prisoners for intelligence, and coming to Mangera, the +inhabitants all ran away into the woods, so that only the priest +and two boys were taken. Captain Davis went thence to the isle of +Amapalla, where the inhabitants were prevented from retiring into +the woods by the secretary, who was an enemy to the Spaniards, +and persuaded them the English were friends; but by the +misconduct of one of the Buccaneers, all the Indians run away, on +which Davis made his men fire at them, and the secretary was +slain. After this the casique of the island was reconciled to the +English, and afterwards guided them wherever they had occasion to +go, especially to places on the continent where they could +procure beef.</p> + +<p>A company of English and French Buccaneers landed some time +afterwards on this island, whence they went over to the +continent, and marched by land to the <i>Cape River</i>, +otherwise called <i>Yare</i>, or <i>Vanquez</i> river, which +falls into the gulf of Mexico, near <i>Cape Gracias a Dios</i>, +on the Mosquito shore. On reaching that river near its source, +they constructed bark canoes, in which they descended the stream +into the gulf of Mexico. They were not, however, the first +discoverers of this passage, as about thirty years before, some +English went up that same river to near its source, from the gulf +of Mexico, and marched thence inland to a town called New +Segovia, near the head of Bluefield's river.</p> + +<p>While in this bay of Amapalla, some difference arose between +the two captains, Davis who had succeeded to Cooke in command of +the Revenge, and Eaton of the Nicholas, when they resolved to +separate: But they first deemed it proper to careen their ships, +for which this place afforded every convenience, and to take in a +supply of fresh water. Both ships being in condition for sea, +Captain Eaton took 400 sacks of flour on board his ship, and +agreed with Captain Cowley to take the charge of the Nicholas as +master. From this period therefore, which was in the end of +September, the voyages of Cowley and Dampier cease to be the +same, and require to be separately narrated.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Continuation of the Narrative of Cowley, from leaving the +Revenge, to his Return to England</i>.</p> + +<p>On leaving the gulf of Amapalla, the Nicholas steered for Cape +Francisco, in lat. 0° 50' N. near which they encountered +dreadful storms, attended by prodigious thunder and lightning. +From thence they proceeded to the latitude of 7° S. but found +the country every where alarmed. They went next to Payta, in lat. +4° 55' S. where they took two ships at anchor, which they set +on fire, because the Spaniards refused to ransom them. Leaving +the coast, they went to the island of <i>Gorgona</i>, in lat. +2° 50' N. about four leagues from the main, which the +privateers usually called <i>Sharp's Island</i>. This is about +two leagues long by one league broad, having a good harbour on +its west side, and affording plenty of wood and water. It is a +common saying in Spanish South America, that it rains often in +Chili, seldom in Peru, and always at Gorgona, where they allege +there never was a day fair to an end. Though this be not strictly +true, it is certain that this island has rain more or less at all +seasons, on which account, perhaps, it has always remained +uninhabited. They sailed from Gorgona W.N.W. till in lat. 30° +N. when they steered W. by N. to lat. 15° N. till they +considered themselves beyond danger from the rocks of <i>St +Bartholomew</i>; after which they returned into the lat. of +13° N. in which parallel they continued their voyage for the +East Indies.</p> + +<p>They had a regular trade-wind, and a reasonably quick passage +across the Pacific Ocean, except that their men were mostly ill +of the scurvy; and on the 14th of March, 1685, being in lat. +13° 2' N. they came in sight of the island of Guam. By +Captain Cowley's calculation, this run across the Pacific Ocean +extended to 7646 miles, from the island of Gorgona to Guam.[157] +They came next day to anchor in a bay on the west side of the +island, and sent their boat on shore with a flag of truce. The +inhabitants of a village at that place set fire to their houses, +and ran away into the interior, on which the boat's crew cut down +some cocoa trees to gather the fruit, and on going again on board +were threatened by a party of the natives, who sallied out from +some bushes on purpose to attack them. A friendly intercourse was +however established between the English and the natives, and +trade took place with them till the 17th, when the natives +attacked the English suddenly, but were beat off with heavy loss, +while none of the English were hurt.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 157: Gorgona is in long. 78° 33' Guam +in 216° 40', both W. from Greenwich. The difference of +longitude is 138° 07', which gives 9530 statute miles, or +2762 marine leagues, so that the computation in the text is +considerably too short.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 19th the Spanish governor of the island came to a point +of land not far from the ship, whence he sent his boat on board +with three copies of the same letter, in Spanish, French, and +Dutch, desiring to know who they were, whence they came, and +whither they were bound. Captain Eaton answered in French, saying +that they had been fitted out by some gentlemen in France to make +discoveries, and were come in quest of provisions. In reply the +governor invited Captain Eaton on shore, who landed with a guard +of twenty men doubly armed, and was politely received. On the +18th the governor sent ten hogs on board, together with a +prodigious quantity of potatoes, plantains, oranges, papaws, and +red pepper, in return for which Captain Eaton sent a diamond ring +to the governor worth twenty pounds, and gave swords to several +Spanish gentlemen who came off with the provisions. Next day the +governor sent to procure some powder, of which he was in want, as +the natives were in rebellion, and Captain Eaton gave him two +barrels, for which to the value of 1400 dollars were offered in +gold and silver, but Eaton refused to accept the money, in +consequence of which the governor sent him a diamond ring, worth +fifty pounds. Every day after this the governor sent them some +kind of provisions, and about the end of March, when about to +sail, the governor sent them thirty hogs for sea store, with a +large supply of rice and potatoes.</p> + +<p>On one occasion the Indians attacked a party of the English, +who were on shore to draw the sein, but were beaten off with much +loss; yet they afterwards endeavoured to prevail on Captain Eaton +to join them in driving out the Spaniards, which he positively +refused. On the 1st April, leaving the bay in which they had +hitherto remained, the Nicholas anchored before the Spanish fort; +and after several civilities on both sides, set sail in the +afternoon of the 3d April with a fair wind.</p> + +<p>This island of Guam is about fourteen leagues long by six +broad, and contains several very pleasant vallies, interspersed +with fine fertile meadows, watered by many rivulets from the +hills. The soil in these vallies is black and very rich, +producing plenty of cocoas, potatoes, yams, papaws, plantains, +<i>monanoes</i>, sour-sops, oranges, and lemons, together with +some honey. The climate is naturally very hot, yet is wholesome, +as constantly refreshed by the trade-wind. The Indian natives are +large made, well proportioned, active and vigorous, some being +seven feet and a half high, and go mostly naked, both men and +women. They never bury their dead, but lay them in the sun to +putrefy. Their only arms are slings and lances, the heads of +these being made of human bones; and on the decease of any one +his bones make eight lances, four from his legs and thighs, and +as many from his arms. These lance heads are formed like a scoop, +and jagged at the edges like a saw or eel-spear; so that a person +wounded by them dies, if not cured in seven days.</p> + +<p>The great annual ship between Manilla and Acapulco touches +here for refreshments, and the Spaniards said there were +sometimes eight ships in one year at this place from the East +Indies. They said also, that they had built a ship here, in 1684, +of 160 tons, to trade with Manilla, and pretended to have a +garrison here of 600 men, most of the Indians being in +rebellion.</p> + +<p>The Nicholas sailed from Guam W. by S. and on computing that +they were 206 leagues from that island, they changed to due W. +The 23d, when they reckoned themselves 560 leagues west of Guam, +they met with a very strong current, resembling the race of +Portland, and fell in with a cluster of islands in lat. 20° +30' N. to the north of Luçonia, [the <i>Bashee +Islands</i>.] They sent their boat ashore on the northermost of +these islands, in order to get some fish, and to examine the +island, on which they found vast quantities of nutmegs growing, +but saw no people, and as night was drawing on they did not +venture to go any distance from the shore. To this island they +gave the name of <i>Nutmeg Island</i>, and called the bay in +which they anchored <i>English Bay</i>. They observed many rocks, +shoals, and foul ground near the shore, and saw a great many +goats on the island, but brought off very few.</p> + +<p>On the 26th of April they were off Cape Bojadore, the N.W. +point of Luçonia, and came soon after to Cipe +<i>Mindato</i>, where they met the S.W. monsoon, on which they +bore away for Canton in China, where they arrived in safety and +refitted their ship. They had here an opportunity of making +themselves as rich as they could desire, but would not embrace +it; as there came into the port thirteen sail of Tartar vessels, +laden with Chinese plunder, consisting of the richest productions +of the East. The men, however, would have nothing to do with any +thing but gold and silver, and Captain Eaton could not prevail +upon them to fight for silks, as they alleged that would degrade +them into pedlars. The Tartars therefore quietly pursued their +affairs at Canton, unconscious of their danger.</p> + +<p>Having repaired the ship, Captain Easton sailed for Manilla, +intending to wait for a Tartar ship of which they had +information, bound from that port, and half laden with silver. +They even got sight of her, and chased her a whole day to no +purpose, as she was quite clean, and the Nicholas was as foul as +could well be. They then stood for a small island, to the north +of Luçonia, to wait for a fair wind to carry them to +Bantam. Instead of one island, they found several, where they +procured refreshments.[158] Learning from an Indian that in one +of these islands there were plenty of beeves, they sent a boat +thither with thirty men, who took what they wanted by force, +though the island was well inhabited.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 158: The indications in the text are too +vague to point out the particular islands at which the Nicholas +refreshed. Immediately north from Luçonia are the +Babuvanes Isles, in lat 19° 30', and still farther, the +Bashee Islands, in 20° 30', both N.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving these islands about the middle of September, 1685, +they were for three days in great danger on the banks of +<i>Peragoa</i>, in lat. 10° N. after which they came to a +convenient bay in an island not far from the northern coast of +Borneo, where they set up a tent on shore and landed every thing +from the ship, fortifying themselves with ten small guns, in case +of being attacked by the natives, and hauled their ship on shore +to clean her bottom. At first the natives of the island avoided +all intercourse with the English; but one day the boat of the +Nicholas came up with a canoe in which was the queen of the +country with her retinue, who all leaped into the sea to get away +from the English. They took up these people with much difficulty, +and entertained them with so much kindness that they became good +friends during two months which they continued afterwards at this +island. At this time the Spaniards were at peace with the +sovereign of Borneo, and carried on an advantageous trade there +from Manilla; of which circumstance Captain Eaton and his people +got intimation, and passed themselves for Spaniards during their +residence.</p> + +<p>This great island is plentifully stored with provisions of all +kinds, and many rich commodities, as diamonds, pepper, camphor, +&c. and several kinds of fine woods, as specklewood and +ebony. Cloves also were there to be had at a reasonable price, +being brought there from the neighbouring islands by stealth. The +animals of Borneo, as reported by Cowley, are elephants, tigers, +panthers, leopards, antelopes, and wild swine. The king of Borneo +being in league with the Spanish governor of the Philippines, the +English passed themselves here as Spaniards, and were amply +supplied by the natives during their stay with fish, oranges, +lemons, mangoes, plantains, and pine-apples.</p> + +<p>The Nicholas sailed from this place in December, 1685, +proceeding to a chain of islands in lat. 4° N. called the +<i>Naturah</i> islands,[159] whence they went to Timor, where the +crew became exceedingly mutinous; on which Captain Cowley and +others resolved to quit the Nicholas, in order to endeavour to +get a passage home from Batavia. Accordingly, Cowley and one Mr +Hill, with eighteen more of the men, purchased a large boat, in +which they meant to have gone to Batavia, but, owing to contrary +winds, were obliged to put in at Cheribon, another factory +belonging to the Dutch in Java, where they found they had lost a +day in their reckoning during their voyage by the west. They here +learnt the death of Charles II. and that the Dutch had driven the +English from Bantam, which was then the second place of trade we +possessed in India. The Dutch were forming other schemes to the +prejudice of our trade, wherefore Cowley, with Hill and another +of the Englishmen, resolved to make all the haste they could to +Batavia, to avoid being involved in the subsisting disputes. They +were kindly received by the governor of Batavia, who promised +them a passage to Holland.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 159: The Natuna Islands, in long. 108° +E. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Cowley and his remaining companions embarked at Batavia in a +Dutch ship in March, 1686. They arrived in Table bay at the Cape +of Good Hope on the 1st June, where they landed next day, and of +which settlement, as it then existed in 1686, Cowley gives the +following account:--</p> + +<p>"Cape Town does not contain above an hundred houses, which are +all built low, because exposed to violent gales of wind in the +months of December, January, and February. The castle is very +strong, having about eighty large cannon for its defence. There +is also a very spacious garden, maintained by the Dutch East +India Company, planted with all kinds of fruit-trees, and many +excellent herbs, and laid out in numerous pleasant walks. This +garden is near a mile in length and a furlong wide, being the +greatest rarity at the Cape, and far exceeding the public garden +at Batavia. This country had abundance of very good sheep, but +cattle and fowls are rather scarce. We walked out of town to a +village inhabited by the <i>Hodmandods</i>, or Hottentots. Their +houses are round, having the fire-places in the middle, almost +like the huts of the wild Irish, and the people lay upon the +ashes, having nothing under them but sheep-skins. The men seemed +all to be <i>Monorchides</i>, and the whole of these people were +so nasty that we could hardly endure the stench of their bodies +and habitations. Their women are singularly conformed, having a +natural skin apron, and are all so ignorant and brutish that they +do not hesitate to prostitute themselves publicly for the +smallest imaginable recompense, of which I was an eye witness. +Their apparel is a sheep-skin flung over their shoulders, with a +leather cap on their heads, as full of grease as it can hold. +Their legs are wound about, from the ankle to the knees, with the +guts of beasts well greased.</p> + +<p>"These people, called <i>Hodmandods</i> by the Dutch, are born +white, but they make themselves black by smearing their bodies +all over with soot and grease, so that by frequent repetition +they become as black as negroes. Their children, when young, are +of a comely form, but their noses are like those of the negroes. +When they marry, the woman cuts off one joint of her finger; and, +if her husband die and she remarry again, she cuts off another +joint, and so on however often she may marry.</p> + +<p>"They are a most filthy race, and will feed upon any thing, +however foul. When the Hollanders kill a beast, these people get +the guts, and having squeezed out the excrements, without washing +or scraping, they lay them upon the coals, and eat them before +they are well heated through. If even a slave of the Hollanders +wish to have one of their women, he has only to give her husband +a piece of tobacco. Yet will they beat their wives if unfaithful +with one of their own nation, though they care not how they act +with the men of other nations. They are worshipers of the moon, +and thousands of them may be seen dancing and singing by the +sea-side, when they expect to see that luminary; but if it happen +to be dark weather, so that the moon does not appear, they say +their god is angry with them. While we were at the Cape, one of +the <i>Hodmandods</i> drank himself dead in the fort, on which +the others came and put oil and milk into his mouth, but finding +he was dead, they began to prepare for his burial in the +following manner:--Having shaved or scraped his body, arms, and +legs, with their knives, they dug a great hole, in which they +placed him on his breech in a sitting posture, heaping stones +about him to keep him upright. Then came the women, making a most +horrible noise round the hole which was afterwards filled up with +earth."</p> + +<p>On the 15th June. 1686, Cowley sailed from the Cape, the +homeward-bound Dutch fleet consisting of three ships, when at the +same time other three sailed for Bolivia. On the 22d of June they +passed the line, when Cowley computed that he had sailed quite +round the globe, having formerly crossed the line nearly at the +same place, when outward-bound from Virginia in 1683. On the 4th +August they judged themselves to be within thirty leagues of the +dangerous shoal called the <i>Abrolhos</i>, laid down in lat. +15° N. in the map: but Cowley was very doubtful if any such +shoal exist, having never met with any one who had fallen in with +it, and he was assured by a pilot, who had made sixteen voyages +to Brazil, that there was no such sand. The 19th September, +Cowley saw land which he believed to be Shetland. They were off +the Maes on the 28th September, and on the 30th Cowley landed at +Helvoetsluys. He travelled by land to Rotterdam, whence he sailed +in the Ann for England, and arrived safe in London on the 12th +October, 1686, after a tedious and troublesome voyage of three +years and nearly two months.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Sequel of the Voyage, so far as Dampier is concerned, after +the Separation of the Nicholas from the Revenge.</i>[160]</p> + +<p>This is usually denominated Captain William Dampier's +<i>first</i> Voyage round the World, and is given at large by +Harris, but on the present occasion has been limited, in this +section, to the narrative of Dampier after the separation of +Captain Cowley in the Nicholas; the observations of Dampier in +the earlier part of the voyage, having been already interwoven in +the first section of this chapter.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 160: Dampier's Voyages, Lond. 1729, vol. I. +and II. Harris, II. 84.]</blockquote> + +<p>This voyage is peculiarly valuable, by its minute and +apparently accurate account of the harbours and anchorages on the +western coast of South America, and has, therefore, been given +here at considerable length, as it may become of singular utility +to our trade, in case the navigation to the South Sea may be +thrown open, which is at present within the exclusive privileges +of the East India Company, yet entirely unused by that chartered +body.--E.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>Captain Eaton in the Nicholas having separated from the +Revenge, left the Gulf of Amapalla on the 2d September, 1684, as +formerly mentioned, which place we also left next day, directing +our course for the coast of Peru. Tornadoes, with thunder, +lightning, and rain, are very frequent on these coasts from June +to November, mostly from the S.E. of which we had our share. The +wind afterwards veered to W. and so continued till we came in +sight of Cape St Francisco, where we met with fair weather and +the wind at S.</p> + +<p>Cape St Francisco, in lat. 0° 50' N. is a high full point +of land, covered with lofty trees. In passing from the N. a low +point may be easily mistaken for the cape, but soon after passing +this point the cape is seen with three distinct points. The land +in its neighbourhood is high, and the mountains appear black. The +20th September we came to anchor in sixteen fathoms near the +island of <i>Plata</i>, in lat. 1° 15' S. This island is +about four miles long and a mile and half broad, being of some +considerable height, and environed with rocky cliffs, except in +one place at the east end, where the only fresh-water torrent of +the isle falls down from the rocks into the sea. The top of the +island is nearly flat, with a sandy soil, which produces three or +four kinds of low small trees, not known in Europe, and these +trees are much overgrown with moss. Among these trees the surface +is covered with pretty good grass, especially in the beginning of +the year, but there are no land animals to feed upon it, the +great number of goats that used to be found here formerly being +all destroyed. Is has, however, a great number of the birds named +Boobies and Man-of-war birds. Some say that this island got the +name <i>Isola de Plata</i> from the Spaniards, from the +circumstance of Sir Francis Drake having carried to this place +their ship the Cacafoga, richly laden with silver, which they +name <i>Plata</i>.</p> + +<p>The anchorage is on the east side, about the middle of the +island, close to the shore, within two cables length of the sandy +bay, in eighteen or twenty fathoms, fast ooze, and smooth water, +the S.E. point of the island keeping off the force of the south +wind which usually blows here. In this sandy bay there is good +landing, and indeed it is the only place which leads into the +island. A small shoal runs out about a quarter of a mile from the +east point of the island, on which shoal there is a great +rippling of the sea when the tide flows. The tide here has a +strong current, setting to the south with the flood, and to the +north when it ebbs. At this east point also there are three small +high rocks, about a cable's length from the shore; and three much +larger rocks at the N.E. point. All round the isle the water is +very deep, except at the before-mentioned anchorage. Near the +shoal there are great numbers of small sea-tortoises, or turtle, +formerly mentioned as found at the Gallapagos. This island of +<i>Plata</i> is four or five leagues W.S.W. from Cape <i>San +Lorenzo</i>.</p> + +<p>After remaining one day at this isle, we continued our voyage +to Cape <i>Santa Helena</i>, in lat. 2° 8' S. This cape +appears high and flat, resembling an island, covered on the top +with thistles, and surrounded by low grounds, but without any +trees. As it jets far out to sea, it forms a good bay on its +north side, a mile within which is a wretched Indian village on +the shore, called also Santa Helena; but the ground in its +neighbourhood, though low, is sandy and barren, producing neither +trees, grass, corn, nor fruit, except excellent water-melons; and +the inhabitants are forced to fetch their fresh water from the +river <i>Calanche</i>, four leagues distant, at the bottom of the +bay. They live chiefly on fish, and are supplied with maize from +other parts, in exchange for <i>Algatrane</i>, which is a +bituminous substance issuing from the earth near this village, +about five paces above high-water mark. This substance, by means +of long boiling, becomes hard like pitch, and is employed as such +by the Spaniards. To leeward of the point, directly opposite the +village, there is good anchorage, but on the west side the water +is very deep. Some of our men were sent under night in canoes to +take the village, in which they succeeded, and made some +prisoners; but the natives set fire to a small bark in the road, +alleging the positive orders of the viceroy.</p> + +<p>We returned from thence to the island of Plata, where we +anchored on the 26th September, and sent some of our men that +evening to <i>Manta</i>, a small Indian village on the continent, +seven or eight leagues from Plata, and two or three leagues east +from Cape Lorenzo. Its buildings are mean and scattered, but +standing on an easy ascent, it has a fine prospect towards the +sea-side. Having formerly been inhabited by the Spaniards, it has +a fine church, adorned with carved work; but as the ground in the +neighbourhood is very dry and sandy, it produces neither corn nor +roots, and only a few shrubs are to be found. The inhabitants are +supplied with provisions by sea, this being the first place at +which ships refresh, when bound from Panama to Lima and other +parts of Peru. They have an excellent spring of fresh water +between the village and the sea. Opposite to this village, and a +mile and a half from the shore, there is a very dangerous rock, +being always covered by the sea; but about a mile within this +rock there is safe anchorage, in six, eight, and ten fathoms, on +hard clear sand; and a mile west from this, a shoal runs a mile +out to sea. Behind the town, and directly to the south, a good +way inland, there is a very high mountain rising up into the +clouds, like a sugar-loaf; which serves as an excellent sea-mark, +there being no other like it on all this coast. [161]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 161: The great Chimborazo is probably here +meant, about 135 English miles inland from Manta, and almost due +east, instead of south, as in the test.--E]</blockquote> + +<p>Our men landed about day-break, a mile and a half from the +village, but the inhabitants took the alarm, and got all away, +except two old women, from whom we learnt that the viceroy, on +receiving intelligence of enemies having come across the isthmus +of Darien into the South Sea, had ordered all their ships to be +set on fire, all the goats in the isle of Plata to be destroyed, +and that the inhabitants on the coast should keep no more +provisions than were necessary for their present use.</p> + +<p>We returned to our ship at Plata, where we remained for some +time unresolved what course to pursue. On the 2d of October, the +Cygnet of London, Captain Swan, came to anchor in the same road. +This was a richly-loaded ship, designed for trading on this +coast, but being disappointed in his hopes of trade, his men had +forced Captain Swan to take on board a company of buccaneers he +fell in with at Nicoya, being those we heard of at Manta, who had +come by land to the South Sea under the command of Captain Peter +Harris, nephew to the Captain Harris who was slain before Panama. +As the Cygnet was unfit for service, by reason of her cargo, +Captain Swan sold most of his goods on credit, and threw the rest +overboard, reserving only the fine commodities, and some iron for +ballast. Captains Davis and Swan now joined company; and Harris +was placed in command of a small bark. Our bark, which had been +sent to cruise three days before the arrival of the Cygnet, now +returned with a prize laden with timber, which they had taken in +the Gulf of Guayaquil. The commander of this prize informed us, +that it was reported at Guayaquil, that the viceroy was fitting +out ten frigates to chase us from these seas. This intelligence +made us wish for Captain Eaton, and we resolved to send out a +small bark towards Lima, to invite him to rejoin us. We also +fitted up another small bark for a fire-ship, and set sail for +the island of <i>Lobos</i> on the 20th October.</p> + +<p>Being about six leagues off Payta on the 2d of November, we +sent 110 men in several canoes to attack that place. <i>Payta</i> +is a small sea-port town belonging to the Spaniards, in lat. +5° 15' S. built on a sandy rock near the sea-side, under a +high hill. Although not containing more than seventy-five or +eighty low mean houses, like most of the other buildings along +the coast of Peru, it has two churches. The walls of these houses +are chiefly built of a kind of bricks, made of earth and straw, +only dried in the sun. These bricks are three feet long, two +broad, and a foot and a half thick. In some places, instead of +roofs, they only lay a few poles across the tops of the walls, +covered with mats, though in other places they have +regularly-constructed roofs. The cause of this mean kind of +building is partly from the want of stones and timber, and partly +because it never rains on this coast, so that they are only +solicitious to keep out the sun; and these walls, notwithstanding +the slight nature of their materials, continue good a long time, +as they are never injured by rain. The timber used by the better +sort of people has to be brought by sea from other places. The +walls of the churches and of the best houses are neatly whitened, +both within and without, and the beams, posts, and doors are all +adorned with carved work. Within they are ornamented with good +pictures, and rich hangings of tapestry or painted calico, +brought from Spain. The houses of Payta, however, were not of +this description, though their two churches were large and +handsome. Close by the sea there was a small fort, armed only +with muskets, to command the harbour, as also another fort on the +top of a hill, which commanded both the harbour and lower fort. +The inhabitants of Payta are obliged to bring their fresh-water +from Colon, a town two leagues to the N.N.E. where a fresh-water +river falls into the sea; and have also to procure fowls, hogs, +plantains, maize, and other provisions from that and other +places, owing to the barrenness of the soil in its own +neighbourhood. The dry and barren tract of this western coast of +America begins at Cape Blanco in the north, and reaches to +Coquimbo in 30° S. in all of which vast extent of coast I +never saw or heard of any rain falling, nor of any thing growing +whatever either in the mountains or vallies, except in such +places as are constantly watered, in consequence of being on the +banks of rivers and streams.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Colon are much given to fishing, for which +purpose they venture out to sea in <i>bark-logs</i>.[162] These +are constructed of several round logs of wood, forming a raft, +but different according to the uses they are intended for, or the +customs of those that make them. Those meant for fishing consist +only of three or five logs of wood about eight feet long, the +middle one longer than the rest, especially forewards, and the +others gradually shorter, forming a kind of stem or prow to cut +the waves. The logs are joined to each other's sides by wooden +pegs and <i>withes</i>, or twisted branches of trees. Such as are +intended for carrying merchandise are made in the same manner and +shape, but the raft consists of twenty or thirty great trunks of +trees, thirty or forty feet long, joined together as before. On +these another row of shorter trees are laid across, and fastened +down by wooden pegs. From, this double raft or bottom they raise +a raft of ten feet high, by means of upright posts, which support +two layers of thick trees laid across each other, like our piles +of wood, but not so close as in the bottom of the float; these +being formed only at the ends and sides, the inner part being +left hollow. In this hollow, at the height of four feet from the +floor of the raft, they lay a deck or floor of small poles close +together, serving as the floor or deck of another room; and above +this, at the same height, they lay just such another sparred +deck. The lower room serves for the hold, in which they stow +ballast, and water casks or jars. The second room serves for the +seamen and what belongs to them. Above all the goods are stowed, +as high as they deem fit, but seldom exceeding the height of ten +feet. Some space is left vacant behind for the steersman, and +before for the kitchen, especially in long voyages, for in these +strange vessels they will venture to make voyages of five or six +hundred leagues.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 162: I suspect this to be a mistaken +translation of <i>barco-longo</i>, long barks, or rafts rather, +as the subsequent description indicates.--E]</blockquote> + +<p>In navigating these vessels, they use a very large rudder, +with one mast in the middle of the machine, on which they have a +large sail, like our west country barges on the river Thames. As +these machines can only sail before the wind, they are only fit +for these seas, where the wind blows constantly one way, seldom +varying above a point or two in the whole voyage from Lima to +Panama. If, when near Panama, they happen to meet a north-west +wind, as sometimes happens, they must drive before it till it +changes, merely using their best endeavours to avoid the shore, +for they will never sink at sea. Such vessels carry sixty or +seventy tons of merchandise, as wine, oil, flour, sugar, Quito +cloth, soap, dressed goats skins, &c. They are navigated by +three or four men only; who, on their arrival at Panama, sell +both the goods and vessel at that place, as they cannot go back +again with them against the trade-wind. The smaller fishing barks +of this construction are much easier managed. These go out to sea +at night with the land-wind, and return to the shore in the day +with the sea-breeze; and such small <i>barco longos</i> are used +in many parts of America, and in some places in the East Indies. +On the coast of Coromandel they use only one log, or sometimes +two, made of light wood, managed by one man, without sail or +rudder, who steers the log with a paddle, sitting with his legs +in the water.[163]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 163: On the coast of Coromandel these small +rafts are named <i>Catamarans</i>, and are employed for carrying +letters or messages between the shore and the ships, through the +tremendous surf which continually breaks on that +coast.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The next town to Payta of any consequence is <i>Piura</i>, +thirty miles from Payta, seated in a valley on a river of the +same name, which discharges its waters into the bay of +<i>Chirapee</i> [or Sechura.] in lat. 5° 32' S. This bay is +seldom visited by ships of burden, being full of shoals; but the +harbour of Payta is one of the best on the coast of Peru, being +sheltered on the S.W. by a point of land, which renders the bay +smooth and the anchorage safe, in from six to twenty fathoms on +clear sand. Most ships navigating this coast, whether bound north +or south, touch at this port for fresh water, which is brought to +them from <i>Colon</i> at a reasonable rate.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning of the 3d November, our men landed about +four miles south of Payta, where they took some prisoners who +were set there to watch. Though informed that the governor of +Piura had come to the defence of Payta with a reinforcement of an +hundred men, they immediately pushed to the fort on the hill, +which they took with little resistance, on which the governor and +all the inhabitants evacuated Payta, but which we found empty of +money, goods, and provisions. That same evening we brought our +ships to anchor near the town, in ten fathoms a mile from shore, +and remained six days in hopes of getting a ransom for the town; +but seeing we were not likely to have any, we set it on fire, and +set sail at night with the land-breeze for the island of Lobos. +The 14th we came in sight of <i>Lobos de Tierra</i>, the inner or +northern island of Lobos, which is of moderate height, and +appears at a distance like <i>Lobos del Mare</i>, the southern +island of the same name, at which other island we arrived on the +19th. The evening of the 29th we set sail for the bay of +Guayaquil, which lies between Cape <i>Blanco</i> in lat. 4° +18', and the point of <i>Chanday</i>, or <i>Carnera</i>, in +2° 18' both S. In the bottom of this bay is a small isle, +called <i>Santa Clara</i>, extending E. and W. and having many +shoals, which make ships that intend for Guayaquil to pass on the +south side of this island.</p> + +<p>From the isles of Santa Clara to <i>Punta arena</i>, the N.W. +point of the island of Puna, is seven leagues [thirty statute +miles] N.N.E. Here ships bound for Guayaquil take in pilots, who +live in a town in Puna of the same name, at its N.E. extremity, +seven leagues [twenty-five miles] from Punta arena. The island of +Puna is low, stretching fourteen leagues E. and W. and five +leagues from N. to S.[164] It has a strong tide running along its +shores, which are full of little creeks and harbours. The +interior of this island consists of good pasture land, intermixed +with some woodlands, producing various kinds of trees to us +unknown. Among these are abundance of <i>Palmitoes</i>, a tree +about the thickness of an ordinary ash, and thirty feet high, +having a straight trunk without branches or leaf, except at the +very top, which spreads out into many small branches three or +four feet long. At the extremity of each of these is a single +leaf, which at first resembles a fan plaited together, and then +opens out like a large unfolded fan. The houses in the town of +Puna are built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and are thatched +with palmito leaves, the inhabitants having to go up to them by +means of ladders. The best place for anchorage is directly +opposite the town, in five fathoms, a cable's length from +shore.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 164: Puna is nearly forty English miles +from N.E. to S.W. and about sixteen miles from N.W. to +S.E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From Puna to Guayaquil is seven leagues, the entrance into the +river of that name being two miles across, and it afterwards runs +up into the country with a pretty straight course, the ground on +both sides being marshy and full of red mangrove trees. About +four miles below the town of Guayaquil, the river is divided into +two channels by a small low island, that on the west being +broadest, though the other is as deep. From the upper end of this +island to the town is about a league, and the river about the +same in breadth, in which a ship of large burden may ride safely, +especially on the side nearest the town. The town of Guayaquil +stands close to the river, being partly built on an ascent, and +partly at the foot of a small hill, having a steep descent to the +river. It is defended by two forts on the low grounds, and a +third on the hill, and is one of the best ports belonging to the +Spaniards in the South Sea. It is under the command of a +governor, and is beautified by several fine churches and other +good buildings. From this place they export cocoas, hides, +tallow, sarsaparilla, drugs, and a kind of woollen cloth called +Quito-cloth. The cocoas grow on both sides of the river above the +town, having a smaller nut than those of Campeachy.[165] +Sarsaparilla delights in watery places, near the side of the +river.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 165: The <i>cacao</i>, or chocolate-nut is +probably here meant, not the cocoanut.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Quito is a populous place in the interior of the country, +almost under the line, being in lat. 0° 12' S. and long. +78° 22' W. from Greenwich. It is inclosed by a ridge of high +mountains, abounding in gold, being inhabited by a few Spaniards, +and by many Indians under the Spanish dominion. The rivers or +streams which descend from the surrounding mountains carry great +abundance of gold dust in their course into the low grounds, +especially after violent rains, and this gold is collected out of +the sand by washing. Quito is reckoned the richest place for gold +in all Peru,[166] but it is unwholesome, the inhabitants being +subject to headaches, fevers, diarrhaes, and dysenteries; but +Guayaquil is greatly more healthy. At Quito is made a +considerable quantity of coarse woollen cloth, worn only by the +lower class all over the kingdom of Peru.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 166: Quito was annexed to the empire of +Peru, not long before the Spanish conquest, but is now in the +viceroyalty of New Granada.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving our ships at Cape Blanco, we went in a bark and +several canoes to make an attempt on Guayaquil, but were +discovered, and returned therefore to our ships, in which we +sailed for the island of Plata, in lat. 1° 15' S. where we +arrived on the 16th December. Having provided ourselves with +water on the opposite coast of the continent, we set sail on the +23d with a brisk gale at S.S.W. directing our course for a town +called <i>Lovalia</i>, in the bay of Panama. Next morning we +passed in sight of Cape <i>Passado</i>, in lat. 0° 28' S. +being a very high round point, divided in the middle, bare +towards the sea, but covered on the land side with fruit-trees, +the land thereabout being hilly and covered with wood. Between +this and Cape San Francisco there are many small points, +inclosing as many sandy creeks full of trees of various kinds. +Meaning to look out for canoes, we were indifferent what river we +came to, so we endeavoured to make for the river of St Jago, by +reason of its nearness to the island of <i>Gallo</i>, in which +there is much gold, and where was good anchorage for our ships. +We passed Cape St Francisco, whence to the north the land along +the sea is full of trees of vast height and thickness.</p> + +<p>Between this cape and the island of Gallo there are several +large rivers, all of which we passed in our way to that of St +Jago, a large navigable river in lat. 2° N.[167] About seven +leagues before it reaches the sea, this river divides into two +branches, which inclose an island four leagues in circuit. Both +branches are very deep, but the S.W. channel is the broadest, and +the other has sand-banks at its mouth, which cannot be passed at +low-water. Above the island the river is a league broad, having a +straight channel and swift current, and is navigable three +leagues up, but how much farther I know not. It runs through a +very rich soil, producing all kinds of the tallest trees that are +usually met with in this country, but especially red and white +cotton-trees, and cabbage-trees of large size. The <i>white +cotton-tree</i> grows not unlike an oak, but much bigger and +taller, having a straight trunk, without branches to the top, +where it sends out strong branches. The bark is very smooth, the +leaves of the size of a plum-tree leaf, dark green, oval, smooth, +and jagged at the ends. These trees are not always biggest near +the roots, but often swell out to a great size in the middle of +their trunks. They bear <i>silk-cotton</i>, which falls to the +ground in November and December, but is not so substantial as +that of the cotton-shrub, being rather like the down of thistles. +Hence they do not think it worth being gathered in America; but +in the East Indies it is used for stuffing pillows. The old +leaves of this tree fall off in April, and are succeeded by fresh +leaves in the course of a week. The <i>red cotton-tree</i> is +somewhat less in size, but in other respects resembles the other, +except that it produces <i>no cotton</i>. The wood is hard, +though that of both kinds is somewhat spongy. Both are found in +fat soils, both in the East and West Indies.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 167: Nearly in the indicated latitude is +the river of Patia, in the province of Barbacoas. The river St +Jago of modern maps on this coast is in lat. 1° 18' N. in the +province of Atacames, or Esmeraldas.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The <i>cabbage-tree</i> is the tallest that is found in these +woods, some exceeding 120 feet in height. It likewise is without +boughs or branches to the top, where its branches are the +thickness of a man's arm, and twelve or fourteen feet long. Two +feet from the stem come forth many small long leaves of an inch +broad, so thick and regular on both sides that they cover the +whole branch. In the midst of these high branches is what is +called the cabbage, which, when taken out of the outer leaves, is +a foot in length, and as thick as the small of a man's leg, as +white as milk, and both sweet and wholesome. Between the cabbages +and the large branches many small twigs sprout out, two feet long +and very close together, at the extremities of which grow hard +round berries, about the size of cherries, which fall once a year +on the ground, and are excellent food for hogs. The trunk has +projecting rings half a foot asunder, the bark being thin and +brittle, the wood hard and black, and the pith white. As the tree +dies when deprived of its head, which is the cabbage, it is +usually cut down before gathering the fruit.</p> + +<p>As the coast and country of Lima has continual dry weather, so +this northern part of Peru is seldom without rain, which is +perhaps one reason why this part of the coast is so little known. +Besides, in going from Panama to Lima, they seldom pass along the +coast, but sail to the west as far as the Cobaya Islands, to meet +the west winds, and thence stand over for Cape St Francisco. In +returning to Panama, they keep along the coast, but being deeply +laden, their ships are not fit to enter the rivers, the banks of +which, and the seacoast, are covered with trees and bushes, and +are therefore convenient for the natives to lie in ambush. The +Indians have some plantations of maize and plantains, and also +breed fowls and hogs. On the 27th December, 1684, we entered the +river of St Jago [<i>Patia</i>] with four canoes by the lesser +branch, and met with no inhabitants till six leagues from its +mouth, where we observed two small huts thatched with palmito +leaves. We saw at the same time several Indians, with their +families and household goods, paddling up the river much faster +than we could row, as they kept near the banks. On the opposite, +or west side, we saw many other huts, about a league off but did +not venture to cross the river, as the current was very rapid. In +the two huts on the east side we only found a few plantains, some +fowls, and one hog, which seemed to be of the European kind, such +as the Spaniards brought formerly to America, and chiefly to +Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Cuba, where, being previously marked, +they feed in the woods all day, and are recalled to their pens at +night by the sound of conch shells.</p> + +<p>We returned next morning to the mouth of the river, intending +to proceed to the isle of <i>Gallo</i>, where we had directed the +ships to meet us. This small uninhabited island, in lat. 3° +N.[168] is situated in a spacious bay, three leagues from the +river <i>Tomaco</i>, and four and a half from an Indian village +of the same name. It is moderately high, and well stored with +timber, having a good sandy bay at its N.E. end, near which is a +fine stream of fresh water; and over against the bay there is +good anchorage in six or seven fathoms. There is only one channel +by which to approach this island, in which are four fathoms, and +into which it is necessary to enter with the flood, and to come +out with the ebb. The river <i>Tomaco</i> is supposed to have its +origin in the rich mountains of Quito, and takes its name from +that of a village on its banks.[169] The country on this river is +well peopled by Indians, among whom are a few Spaniards, who +traffic for gold with the natives. This river is so shallow at +the mouth, that it can only be entered by barks. The town of +<i>Tomaco</i> is small, and situated near the mouth of the river, +being chiefly occupied by the Spaniards, who trade in this +neighbourhood. From this place to that branch of the river St +Jago where we were then at anchor is five leagues.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 168: The lat. of Gallo is only 1° 57' +N. That assigned in the text would lead to the isle of Gorgona, +in 2° 54' N. but the description of our author suits much +better with Gallo.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 169: The island and point of Tomaco are +placed in modern maps at the mouth of the Mira, off which are +many islands, in lat. 1° 40'N.]</blockquote> + +<p>As the land here is low and full of creeks, we left the river +on the 21st December, and crossed these small bays in our canoes. +In our way we saw an Indian hut, whence we took the master and +all his family, and rowing forwards, we came to Tomaco at +midnight. We here seized all the inhabitants, among whom was one +Don Diego de Pinas, a Spanish knight, whose ship was at anchor +not far off to load with timber, and in which we found thirteen +jars of good wine, but no other loading. An Indian canoe came to +us, in which were three natives, who were straight and +well-limbed, but of low stature, having black hair, long visages, +small eyes and noses, and dark complexions. Several of our men, +who had gone seven or eight leagues up the river, returned on the +31st, bringing with them several ounces of gold, which they had +found in a Spanish house, whence the inhabitants had fled.</p> + +<p>On the 1st January, 1685, while going in our canoes from +Tomaco to Gallo, we took a packet of letters in a Spanish boat +bound from Panama to Lima, by which the president of Panama wrote +to hasten the Plate fleet from Lima, as the armada from Spain had +arrived in Porto Bello. This intelligence made us change our +intention of proceeding to Lavelia, instead of which we now +proposed to make for the <i>Pearl Islands</i>, not far from +Panama, past which all ships bound from the south for Panama must +necessarily pass. We accordingly sailed on the 7th, and next day +took a vessel of ninety tons, laden with flour; and continuing +our voyage with a gentle wind at S. we anchored on the 9th at the +island of <i>Gorgona</i>, on its west side, in thirty-eight +fathoms clean ground, two cables length from shore, in a sandy +bay, the land round which is very low.</p> + +<p><i>Gorgona</i> is in lat. 2° 54' N. twenty-five leagues +from Gallo, and is remarkable for two high risings or hills +called the Saddles. This island is two leagues long by one league +broad, and is about four from the continent, having another small +isle at its west end. It is full of tall trees, and is watered by +many rivulets, having no animals except monkies, rabbits, and +snakes. It is very subject to heavy rains, and the only +observable difference in the seasons here is, that the rains are +more moderate in summer. The sea around is so deep that there is +no anchorage except at the west end, where the tide flows eight +feet. Muscles and periwinkles are here in great plenty, and the +monkies open the shells at low water. There are also abundance of +pearl oysters, fixed to loose rocks by their beards, four, five, +and six fathoms under water. These resemble our oysters, but are +somewhat flatter and thinner in the shell, their flesh being +slimy and not eatable, unless dried beforehand and afterwards +boiled. Some shells contain twenty or thirty seed pearls, and +others have one or two pearls of some size, lying at the head of +the oyster, between the fish and the shell; but the inside of the +shells have a brighter lustre than even the pearls.</p> + +<p>The 13th January we pursued our voyage for <i>Isla del +Rey</i>, being two men of war, two tenders a fire-ship, and a +prize vessel. With the trade-wind at S. we sailed along the +continent, having low land near the sea but seeing high mountains +up the country. On the 16th we passed Cape <i>Corientes</i>, in +lat. 5° 32' N. being a high point with four small hillocks on +the top, and at this place found a current setting to the north. +The 21st we came in sight of Point <i>Garachina</i>, in lat. +7° 20' N.[170] The land here being high and rocky, and +without trees near the shore. Within the point there is plenty of +oysters and muscles. About twelve leagues from this point are the +islands called <i>Islas del Rey</i>, or the Pearl Islands.[171] +Between these and the Point of Garachina there is a small flat +barren island, called <i>Galleria</i>, near which we came to +anchor.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 170: Carachina Point is in lat. 8° 10' +N.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 171: The Isla del Rey is a considerable +island in the bay of Panama, and the Archipelago de las Perlas +are a multitude of [illegible] islets N. by W. from that +island.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The <i>King's</i> or <i>Pearl</i> Islands, are a considerable +number of low woody isles, seven leagues from the nearest +continent, and twelve leagues from Panama, stretching fourteen +leagues from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S. Though named Pearl Islands +in the maps, I could never see any pearls about them. The +northermost of these isles, called <i>Pachea</i> or +<i>Pacheque</i>, which is very small, is eleven or twelve leagues +from Panama; the most southerly is called St Paul's Island, and +the rest, though larger, have no names. Some of them are planted +with bananas, plantains, and rice by negroes belonging to the +inhabitants of Panama. The channel between these islands and the +continent is seven or eight leagues broad, of a moderate depth, +and has good anchorage all the way. These isles lie very close +together, yet have channels between them fit for boats.</p> + +<p>At one end of <i>St Paul's</i> Island, there is a good +careening place, in a deep channel inclosed by the land, into +which the entrance is on the north side, where the tide rises ten +feet. We brought our ships in on the 25th, being spring tide, and +having first cleaned our barks, we sent them on the 27th to +cruise towards Panama. The fourth day after, they brought us in a +prize coming from Lavelia, laden with maize or Indian corn, +salted beef and fowls. <i>Lavelia</i> is a large town on the bank +of a river which runs into the north side of the bay of Panama, +and is seven leagues from the sea; and <i>Nata</i> is another +town situated in a plain on a branch of the same river.[172] +These two places supply Panama with beef, hogs, fowls, and maize. +In the harbour where we careened, we found abundance of oysters, +muscles, limpits, and clams, which last are a kind of oysters, +which stick so close to the rocks that they must be opened where +they grow, by those who would come at their meat. We also found +here some pigeons and turtle-doves.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 172: From the circumstances in the text +Lavelia seems to be the town now named San Francisco, near the +head of the river Salado, which runs into the gulf Parita, on the +<i>west</i> side of the bay of Panama.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having well careened our ships by the 14th February, and +provided a stock of wood and water, we sailed on the 18th, and +came to anchor in the great channel between the isles and the +continent, in fifteen fathoms, on soft ooze, and cruised next day +towards Panama, about which the shore seemed very beautiful, +interspersed with a variety of hills and many small thickets. +About a league from the continent there are several small isles, +partly ornamented with scattered trees, and the <i>King's +Isles</i> on the opposite side of the channel give a delightful +prospect, from their various shapes and situations. The 18th we +went towards Panama, and anchored directly opposite Old Panama, +once a place of note, but mostly laid in ashes by Sir Henry +Morgan, and not since rebuilt. New Panama is about four leagues +from the old town, near the side of a river, being a very +handsome city, on a spacious bay of the same name, into which +many long navigable rivers discharge their waters, some of which +have gold in their sands. The country about Panama affords a +delightful prospect from the sea, having a great diversity of +hills, vallies, groves, and plains. The houses are mostly of +brick, and pretty lofty, some being handsomely built, especially +that inhabited by the president; the churches, monasteries, and +other public edifices, making the finest appearance of any place +I have seen in the Spanish West Indies. It is fortified by a high +stone wall, mounted by a considerable number of guns, which were +formerly only on the land side, but have now been added to the +side next the sea. The city has vast trade, being the staple or +emporium for all goods to and from Peru and Chili; besides that, +every three years, when the Spanish <i>armada</i> comes to Porto +Bello, the <i>Plate fleet</i> comes here with the treasure +belonging to the king and the merchants, whence it is carried on +mules by land to Porto Bello, at which time, from the vast +concourse of people, everything here is enormously dear.</p> + +<p>The Spanish armada, which comes every three years to the West +Indies, arrives first at Carthagena, whence an express is +dispatched by land to the viceroy at Lima, and two packets are +also sent by sea, one for Lima, and the other for Mexico, which +last I suppose goes by way of <i>Vera Cruz</i>. That for Lima +goes first by land to Panama, and thence by sea to Lima. After +remaining sixty days at Carthagena, the armada sails to Porto +Bello, where it only remains thirty days to take in the royal +treasure brought here from Panama, said to amount to twenty-four +millions of dollars, besides treasure and goods belonging to the +merchants. From Porto Bello the armada weighs always on the +thirtieth day, but the admiral will sometimes stay a week longer +at the mouth of the river, to oblige the merchants. It then +returns to Carthagena, where it meets the king's money from that +part of the country, as also a large Spanish galleon or patache, +which, on the first arrival of the armada at Carthagena, had been +dispatched along the coast to collect the royal treasure. The +armada, after a set stay at Carthagena, sails for the Havannah, +where a small squadron called the <i>flota</i> meets it from Vera +Cruz, bringing the riches of Mexico, and the rich goods brought +by the annual ship from Manilla. When all the ships are joined, +they sail for Spain through the gulf of Florida.</p> + +<p>Porto Bello is a very unhealthy place, on which account the +merchants of Lima stay there as short time as possible. Panama is +seated in a much better air, enjoying the sea-breeze every day +from ten or eleven in the forenoon till eight or nine at night, +when the land-breeze begins, and blows till next morning. +Besides, on the land side Panama has an open champaign country, +and is seldom troubled with fogs; neither is the rainy season, +which continues from May till November, nearly so excessive as at +Porto Bello, though severe enough in June, July, and August, in +which season the merchants of Peru, who are accustomed to a +constant serene air, without rains or fogs, are obliged to cut +off their hair, to preserve them from fevers during their +stay.</p> + +<p>The 21st February, near the Perico islands opposite to Panama, +we took another prize from Lavelia, laden with beeves, hogs, +fowls, and salt. The 24th we went to the isle of Taboga, six +leagues south of Panama. This island is three miles long and two +broad, being very rocky and steep all round, except on the north +side, where the shore has an easy dope. In the middle of the isle +the soil is black and rich, where abundance of plantains and +bananas are produced, and near the sea there are cocoa and +<i>mammee</i> trees. These are large and straight in their stems, +without knots, boughs, or branches, and sixty or seventy feet +high. At the top there are many small branches set close +together, bearing round fruit about the size of a large quince, +covered with a grey rind, which is brittle before the fruit is +ripe, but grows yellow when the fruit comes to maturity, and is +then easily peeled off. The ripe fruit is also yellow, resembling +a carrot in its flesh, and both smells and tastes well, having +two rough flat kernels in the middle, about the size of large +almonds. The S.W. side of this isle is covered with trees, +affording abundant fuel, and the N. side has a fine stream of +good water, which falls from the mountains into the sea. Near +this there was formerly a pretty town with a handsome church, but +it has been mostly destroyed by the privateers. There is good +anchorage opposite this town a mile from the shore, in sixteen to +eighteen fathoms on soft ooze. At the N.N.W. end is a small town +called <i>Tabogilla</i>, and on the N.E. of this another small +town or village without a name.</p> + +<p>While at anchor near <i>Tabogilla</i>, we were in great danger +from a pretended merchant, who brought a bark to us in the night, +under pretence of being laden with merchandise to trade with us +privately, but which was in reality a fire-ship fitted out for +our destruction. But on her approach, some of our men hailed her +to come to anchor, and even fired upon her, which so terrified +the men that they got into their canoes, having first set her on +fire, on which we cut our cables and got out of her way. This +fire-ship was constructed and managed by one Bond, who formerly +deserted from us to the Spaniards. While busied next morning in +recovering our anchors, we discovered a whole fleet of canoes +full of men, passing between Tabogilla and another isle. These +proved to be French and English buccaneers, lately come from the +North Sea across the isthmus of Darien, 200 of them being French +and 80 English. These last were divides between our two ships, +under Captains Davis and Swan; and the Frenchmen were put into +our prize, named the Flower, under the command of Captain Gronet, +their countryman, in return for which he offered commissions to +Captains Davis and Swan, from the governor of Petite Goave, as it +is the custom of the French privateers to carry with them blank +commissions. Captain Davis accepted one, but Captain Swan had one +already from the Duke of York.</p> + +<p>Learning from these men that Captain Townley was coming across +the isthmus of Darien with 180 Englishmen, we set sail on the 2d +March for the gulf of <i>San Miguel</i> to meet Townley. This +gulf is on the east side of the great Bay of Panama, in lat. +8° 15' N. long. 79° 10' W. thirty leagues S.E. from +Panama; from whence the passage lies between Isola del Rey and +the main. In this gulf many rivers discharge their waters. Its +southern point is Cape <i>Carachina</i>, in lat. 8° 6' N. and +the northern, named Cape <i>Gardo</i>, is in lat. 8° 18' N. +The most noted rivers which discharge themselves into this gulf, +are named <i>Santa Maria, Sambo</i>, and <i>Congo</i>. This last +rises far within the country, and after being joined by many +small streams on both sides of its course, falls into the north +side of the gulf a league from Cape Gardo. It is deep and +navigable for several leagues into the country, but not broad, +and is neglected by the Spaniards owing to its nearness to the +river of Santa Maria, where they have gold mines. <i>Santa +Maria</i> is the largest of the rivers in this gulf, being +navigable for eight or nine leagues, as far as the tide flows, +above which it divides into several branches fit only for canoes. +In this river the tide of flood rises eighteen feet. About the +year 1665, the Spaniards built the town of Santa Maria, near six +leagues up this river,[173] to be near the gold mines. I have +been told, that, besides the gold usually procured out of the ore +and sand, they sometimes find lumps wedged between the fissures +of rocks as large as hens eggs or larger. One of these was got by +Mr Harris, who got here 120 pounds weight of gold, and in his +lump there were several crevices full of earth and dust.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 173: In modern maps the river which seems +to agree with this description of the Santa Maria, is called +<i>Tlace</i>, one of the principal branches of which is named +Chuchunque. The gold mines of Cana and Balsa are placed on some +of its branches, on which likewise there are several towns, as +Nisperal, Fichichi, Pungana, Praya, and Balsa.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Spaniards employ their slaves to dig these mines in the +dry season; but when the rivers overflow, as the mines cannot be +then worked, the Indians wash the gold out of the sands that are +forced down from the mountains, and which gold they sell to the +Spaniards, who gain as much in that way as they do by their +mines. During the wet season, the Spaniards retire with their +slaves to Panama. Near the mouth of the Santa Maria, the +Spaniards have lately built another town, called +<i>Scuchadores</i>,[174] in a more airy situation than Santa +Maria. The land all about the gulf of San Miguel is low and +fertile, and is covered with great numbers of large trees.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 174: This probably is that named Nisperal +in modern geography, the appellation in the text being the +Spanish name, and the other the name given by the +Indians.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>While crossing the isthmus, Gronet had seen Captain Townley +and his crew at the town of Santa Maria, busied in making causes +in which to embark on the South Sea, the town being at that time +abandoned by the Spaniards; and on the 3d March, when we were +steering for the gulf of San Miguel, we met Captain Townley and +his crew in two barks which they had takes, one laden with +brandy, wine, and sugar, and the other with flour. As he wanted +room for his men, he distributed the jars among our ships, in +which the Spaniards transport their brandy, wine, and oil. These +jars hold seven or eight gallons each. Being now at anchor among +the King's islands, but our water growing scarce, we sailed for +Cape Carachina, in hopes of providing ourselves with that +necessary article, and anchored within that cape, in four fathoms +on the 22d. We here found the tide to rise nine feet, and the +flood to set N.N.E. the ebb running S.S.W. The natives brought us +some refreshments, but as they did not in the least understand +Spanish, we supposed they had no intercourse with the +Spaniards.</p> + +<p>Finding no water here, we sailed for <i>Porto Pinas</i>, about +fifty miles to the S. by W. in lat. 7° 33' N. which is so +named from the vast numbers of pine-trees which grow in its +neighbourhood. The country here rises by a gentle ascent from the +sea to a considerable height, and is pretty woody near the shore. +At the entrance into the harbour there are two small rocks, which +render the passage narrow, and the harbour within is rather +small, besides which it is exposed to the S.W. wind. We sent our +boats into this harbour for water, which they could not procure, +owing to a heavy sea near the shore; wherefore we again made sail +for Cape Carachina, where we arrived on the 29th March. On our +way we took a canoe, in which were four Indians and a Mulatto, +and as the last was found to have been in the fire-ship sent +against us, he was hanged.</p> + +<p>On the 11th of April we anchored among the King's isles, where +we met with Captain Harris, who had come with some men by way of +the river of Santa Maria. The 19th, 250 men were sent in canoes +to the river <i>Cheapo</i>, to surprise the town of that name. +The 21st we followed them to the island of <i>Chepillo</i>, +directly opposite the mouth of the river Chepo, or Cheapo, in the +bay of Panama, about seven leagues from the city of Panama, and +one league from the continent. This is a pleasant island, about +two miles long, and as much in breadth, low on the north side, +but rising by a gentle ascent to the south. The soil is very +good, and produces in the low grounds great store of fine fruits, +as plantains, mammees, sapotas, sapadillos, avogato pears, +star-apples, and others. Half a mile from shore there is good +anchorage, opposite to which is a very good spring of fresh-water +near the sea.</p> + +<p>The <i>Sapadillo</i>-tree is altogether like a pear-tree, and +the fruit resembles a bergamot pear, but somewhat longer. When +first gathered it is hard and the juice clammy; but after keeping +a few days it becomes juicy and sweet. It has two or three black +kernels, resembling pomegranate seeds. The <i>Avogato</i>-tree is +higher than our pear-trees, having a black smooth bark, and oval +leaves. The fruit is about the size of a large lemon, green at +first, but becomes yellow when ripe, having a yellowish pulp as +soft as butter. After being three or four days gathered, the rind +comes easily off, and as the fruit is insipid it is commonly +eaten with sugar and limejuice, being esteemed a great +provocative by the Spaniards, who have therefore planted them in +most of their settlements on the Atlantic. It has a stone within +as large as a horse-plum. The <i>Sapota</i>-tree, or +<i>Mammee-sapota</i>, is neither so large nor so tall as the wild +mammae at Taboga, nor is the fruit so large or so round. The rind +is smooth, and the pulp, which is pleasant and wholesome, is +quite red, with a rough longish stone. There are also here some +wild <i>mammee</i>-trees, which grow very tall and straight, and +are fit for masts, but the fruit is not esteemed. The tree +producing the <i>star-apples</i> resembles our quince-tree, but +is much larger, and has abundance of broad oval leaves. The fruit +is as big as a large apple, and is reckoned very good, but I +never tasted it.</p> + +<p>The river <i>Chepo</i>, or <i>Cheapo</i>, rises in the +mountains near the north side of the isthmus, being inclosed +between a northern and southern range, between which it makes its +way to the S.W. after which it describes nearly a semicircle, and +runs gently into the sea about seven leagues E. from Panama, in +lat. 9° 3' N. long. 79° 51' W. Its mouth is very deep, +and a quarter of a mile broad, but is so obstructed at the +entrance by sands as only to be navigable by barks. About six +leagues from the sea stands the city of <i>Cheapo</i>, on the +<i>left</i> bunk of the river.[175] This place stands in a +champaign country, affording a very pleasant prospect, as it has +various hills in the neighbourhood covered with wood, though most +of the adjacent lands are pasture-grounds to the north of the +river, but the country south from the river is covered with wood +for many miles.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 175: In modern maps the town of Chepo is +placed on the <i>right</i> bank of the river, as descending the +stream, and only about five miles up the river.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our men returned from Cheapo on the 24th, having taken that +town without opposition, but found nothing there worth mention. +The 25th we were joined by Captain Harris, and arrived at Taboga +on the 28th, when, finding ourselves nearly a thousand strong, we +meditated an attack on Panama; but, being informed by our +prisoners that the Spaniards there had received considerable +reinforcements from Porto Bello, that design was laid aside. The +25th May we had intelligence from some prisoners that the Lima +fleet was daily expected, whereupon we anchored in a narrow +channel, a mile long and not above seven paces wide, formed by +two or three small islands on the south side of the island of +<i>Pacheque</i>. Our fleet now consisted of ten sail, only two of +which were ships of war, that commanded by Captain Davis having +36 guns and 156, while Captain Swan's carried 16 guns and 140 +men. The rest were only provided with small arms, and our whole +force amounted to 960 men. We had also a fire-ship.</p> + +<p>Hitherto we had the wind at N.N.E. with fair weather, but on +the 28th of May the rainy season began. On that day, about 11 +a.m. it began to clear up, and we discovered the Spanish fleet +three leagues W.N.W. from the island of Pacheque, standing to the +east, we being then at anchor a league S.E. from that isle, +between it and the continent. We set sail about three p.m. +bearing down upon the Spaniards right before the wind, while they +kept close upon a wind to meet us. Night coming on, we only +exchanged a few shots at that time. As soon as it began to be +dark, the Spanish admiral shewed a light at his top, as a signal +for his fleet to anchor. In half an hour this was taken down; but +soon after a light appeared as before, which went to leewards, +which we followed under sail, supposing it to be still the +admiral; but this was a stratagem of the Spaniards to deceive as, +being at the top-mast head of one of their barks, and effectually +succeeded, as we found in the morning they had gained the +weather-gage of us. They now bore down upon us under full sail, +so that we were forced to make a running fight all next day, +almost quite round the bay of Panama, and came at length to +anchor over against the island of Pacheque. As Captain Townley +was hard pressed by the Spaniards, he was forced to make a bold +run through the before-mentioned narrow channel, between Pacheque +and the three small islands; and Captain Harris was obliged to +separate from us during the fight. Thus our long-projected design +vanished into smoke.</p> + +<p>According to the report of some prisoners taken afterwards, +the Spanish fleet consisted of fourteen sail, besides +<i>periagoes</i>, or large boats of twelve or fourteen oars each, +and among these there were eight ships of good force, mounting +from eight to forty-eight guns, with two fire-ships, and computed +to contain 3000 men. In the morning of the 30th we saw the +Spanish fleet at anchor, three leagues from us to leeward, and by +ten a.m. they were under sail with an easy gale from the S. +making the best of their way to Panama. In this affair we had but +one man slain, but never knew the loss sustained by the +Spaniards. Captain Gronet and his Frenchmen never joined us in +this fight, laying the fault upon his men, wherefore he was +ordered in a consultation to leave us; after which we resolved to +sail for the islands of Quibo, or Cobaya, in quest of Captain +Harris.</p> + +<p>We sailed on the 1st June, 1685, with the wind at S.S.W. +passing between Cape Carachina and <i>Islas del Rey</i>. The 10th +we came in sight of <i>Moro de Puercos</i>, a high round hill on +the coast of Lavelia, in lat. 7° 12' N. round which the coast +makes a turn northwards to the isles of Quibo. On this part of +the coast there are many rivers and creeks, but not near so large +as those on the east side of the bay of Panama. Near the sea this +western coast of the bay is partly hilly and partly low land, +with many thick woods, but in the interior there are extensive +savannahs or fruitful plains, well stored with cattle. Some of +the rivers on this side produce gold, but not in such abundance +as on the other side; and there are hardly any Spanish +settlements on this side, except along the rivers leading to +Lavelia and Nata, which are the only places I know of between +Panama and <i>Pueblo nova</i>. From Panama there is good +travelling all over Mexico, through savannahs or plains; but +towards Peru there is no passage by land beyond the river Chepo, +by reason of thick woods and many rivers and mountains.</p> + +<p>We arrived at the isle of <i>Quibo</i> on the 15th June, where +we found Captain Harris. This isle is in lat 7° 26' N. and +long. 82° 13' W. It is near seven leagues long by four broad, +being all low land, except at its N.E. end, on which side, and +also to the east, there is excellent water. It abounds in many +kinds of trees, among which are great numbers of deer and black +monkeys, the flesh of which is reckoned very wholesome; and it +has some guanas and snakes. A sand-bank runs out half a mile into +the sea from the S.E. end of this island, and on its east side, a +league to the north of this, there is a rock a mile from the +shore, which is seen above water at last quarter of the ebb. In +all other places there is safe anchorage a quarter of a mile from +the shore, in six, eight, ten, and twelve fathoms, on clean sand +and ooze. The isle of <i>Quicarra</i>, to the south of Quibo, is +pretty large; and to the north of it is a small isle named +Ranchina, which produces great plenty of certain trees called +<i>Palma-Maria</i>. These are straight, tough, and of good +length, and are consequently fit for masts, the grain of the wood +having a gradual twist or spiral direction; but, notwithstanding +the name, they have no resemblance to palms. To the N.E. of Quibo +are the small islands of <i>Canales</i> and <i>Cantarras</i>, in +the channels between which there is good anchorage. These islands +have plenty of wood and water, and appear at a distance as if +part of the continent; and as the island of Quibo is the most +considerable, these isles are generally named collectively the +Quibo islands.</p> + +<p>Having failed in our designs at sea, it was agreed to try our +fortune on land, and the city of Leon, near the coast of +Nicaragua in Mexico, was pitched upon, as being nearest us. Being +in want of canoes for landing our men, we cut down trees to make +as many as we had occasion for, and in the mean time 150 men were +detached to take <i>Puebla nova</i>, a town on the continent, +near the Quibo island,[176] in hopes of getting some provisions. +They easily took that town, but got nothing there except an empty +bark, and returned to us on the 26th June. Captain Knight came +back to us on the 5th July, having been farther to the west, but +meeting with no prize, he had gone south to the bay of Guayaquil, +where he took two <i>barco-longas</i>, with wine, oil, brandy, +sugar, soap, and other commodities. Knight learnt from his +prisoners that certain merchant ships, designed to have +accompanied the Spanish fleet to Panama, remained behind at +Payta, which he might easily have taken if he had been provided +with a stronger force.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 176: The only place in modern geography +resembling the name, and agreeing with the description in the +text, is San Pablo on the S. coast of Veragua, in lat. 8° 9' +N. and long. 83° W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our canoes being all ready, we sailed from Quibo on the 20th +July towards Realejo, a port a small way to the N.W. of Leon, +being now 640 men, with eight ships, three tenders, and a +fire-ship. Coasting along to the N.W. we passed the gulfs of +Dulce and Nicoya, and the <i>Isla del Cano</i>, the land along +the coast being low and covered with wood, but almost destitute +of inhabitants. August 8th, in lat. 11° 20' N. we got sight +of <i>Volcano viejo</i>, or Old Volcano, the sea-mark for +Realejo, bearing from us N.E. by N. when we made ready to land +next day. Accordingly, we sent 520 men on the 9th in thirty-one +canoes to attack the harbour of Realejo. The weather was fair and +the wind favourable till two p.m. when a tempest arose, attended +by thunder and lightning, which almost overwhelmed us in the sea. +It subsided, however, in half an hoar, as did the agitation of +the waves; it being observable in these hot climates that the +waves soon rise and soon fall. It became calm about seven p.m. +but as we could not get ready to land that night before day, +being then five leagues from shore, we remained nearly in the +same place till next evening, that we might not be +discovered.</p> + +<p>About three next morning another tornado had nearly put an end +to us and our enterprise, but it did not last long, and we +entered the creek, on the S.E. side of the harbour, leading to +Realejo in the night, but durst not proceed further till +day-break. We then rowed deeper into the creek, which is very +narrow, the land on both sides being very marshy and full of +mangrove trees, through among which it is impossible to pass, and +beyond these, where the ground is firm, the Spaniards had cast up +a small entrenchment. We rowed as fast as we could and landed 470 +men, the remainder, among whom I was, being left to guard the +canoes.</p> + +<p>The city of Leon stands twenty miles up the country in a sandy +plain, near a peaked burning mountain, called <i>El Rico</i>, or +the Volcano of Leon, the way to that city from where our people +landed being through a champaign country covered with long grass. +Between the landing place and the city were several sugar works, +and about midway a beautiful river, but fordable. Two miles +before coming to the city there was an Indian town, whence a +pleasant sandy road led to the city. The houses in Leon were +large and built of stone, but low and roofed with tiles, having +many gardens among them, with a cathedral and three other +churches. It stands in an extensive sandy plain or savannah, +which absorbs all the rain, and being entirely free from wood, it +has free access to the breezes on all sides. These circumstances +render it a healthy and pleasant place, but not of much commerce, +all the wealth of its inhabitants consisting in cattle and sugar +works.</p> + +<p>Our people began their march for Leon at eight a.m. the van +consisting of eighty of the briskest men, being led by Captain +Townly. He was followed by Captain Swan with 100 men, and Captain +Davis, assisted by Captain Knight, brought up the rear with 170 +men.[177] Captain Townley, being two miles in advance of the +rest, and having repulsed a body of seventy horse about four +miles short of Leon, pushed forwards with his vanguard, and +entered the city without farther resistance at three p.m. He was +then opposed by 500 foot and 200 horse, first in a broad street, +and afterwards in the great market-place; but the horse soon +galloped off, and were followed by the foot, leaving the city to +the mercy of our people. Captain Swan reached the city at four +p.m. Davis about five, and Knight with the remainder at six. The +Spaniards only killed one of our men, who was very old and had +loitered behind, refusing to accept quarter, and took another +named Smith. The governor sent word next day, offering to ransom +the town; on which our officers demanded 30,000 pieces of eight, +or Spanish dollars, together with provisions for 1000 men for +four months, which terms being refused, our people set the city +on fire on the 14th of August, and rejoined the canoes next +morning. Smith was exchanged for a gentlewoman, and a gentleman +who had been made prisoner was released, on promise to deliver +150 oxen for his ransom at Realejo, the place we intended next to +attack.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 177: Only 350 men are here accounted for, +though 470 are said to have marched on this enterprise, leaving a +difference of 120 men: perhaps these made a separate corps under +Knight, as he seems to have fallen considerably in the rear of +Davis.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the afternoon of the 16th we came to the harbour of Realejo +in our canoes, our ships having come there to anchor. The creek +leading to Realejo extends north from the N.W. part of the +harbour, being nearly two leagues from the island at the mouth of +the harbour to the town. The first two-thirds of this distance +the creek is broad, after which it closes into a deep narrow +channel, lined on both sides by many cocoa-trees. A mile from the +entrance the creek winds towards the west, and here the Spaniards +had thrown up an entrenchment, fronting the entrance of the +creek, and defended by 100 soldiers and twenty guns, having a +boom of trees thrown across the creek, so that they might easily +have beaten off 1000 men, but they wanted courage to defend their +excellent post; for on our firing two guns they all ran away, +leaving us at liberty to cut the boom. We then landed and marched +to the town of Realejo, a fine borough about a mile from thence, +seated in a plain on a small river. It had three churches and an +hospital, but is seated among fens and marshes, which send forth +a noisome scent, and render it very unhealthy. The country round +has many sugar works and cattle pens, and great quantities of +pitch, tar, and cordage are made by the people. It also abounds +in melons, pine-apples, guavas, and prickly pears.</p> + +<p>The shrub which produces the <i>guava</i> has long small +boughs, with a white smooth bark, and leaves like our hazel. The +fruit resembles a pear, with a thin rind, and has many hard +seeds. It may be safely eaten while green, which is not the case +with most other fruits in the East or West Indies. Before being +ripe it is astringent, but is afterwards loosening. When ripe it +is soft, yellow, and well tasted, and may either be baked like +pears, or coddled like apples. There are several sorts, +distinguished by their shape, taste, and colour, some being red +and others yellow in the pulp. The <i>prickly-pear</i> grows on a +shrub about five feet high, and is common in many parts of the +West Indies, thriving best on sandy grounds near the sea. Each +branch has two or three round fleshy leaves, about the breadth of +the hand, somewhat like those of the house-leek, edged all round +with spines or sharp prickles an inch long. At the outer +extremity of each leaf the fruit is produced, about the size of a +large plum, small towards the leaf and thicker at the other end, +where it opens like a medlar. The fruit, which is also covered by +small prickles, is green at first, but becomes red as it ripens, +having a red pulp of the consistence of a thick syrup, with small +black seeds, pleasant and cooling to the taste. I have often +observed, on eating twenty or more of these at a time, that the +urine becomes as red as blood, but without producing any evil +consequence.</p> + +<p>We found nothing of value in Realejo, except 500 sacks of +flour, with some pitch, tar, and cordage. We also received here +the 150 oxen promised by the gentleman who was released at Leon; +which, together with sugar, and other cattle we procured in the +country, were very welcome and useful to us. We remained in +Realejo from the 17th to the 24th of August, when we re-embarked. +On the 25th Captains Davis and Swan agreed to separate, the +former being inclined to return to the coast of Peru, and the +latter to proceed farther to the north-west; and as I was curious +to become better acquainted with the north-western parts of +Mexico, I left Captain Davis and joined Captain Swan. Captain +Townley joined us with his two barks, but Captains Harris and +Knight went along with Swan. On the 27th Davis went out of the +harbour with his ship, but we staid behind for some time, to +provide ourselves with wood and water. By this time our men began +to be much afflicted with fevers, which we attributed to the +remains of a contagious distemper that lately raged at Realejo, +as the men belonging to Captain Davis were similarly +infected.</p> + +<p>We sailed from Realejo on the 3d September, steering to the +north-west along the coast, having tornadoes from the N.W. +accompanied with much thunder and lightning, which obliged us to +keep out to sea, so that we saw no land till the 14th, when we +were in lat. 13° 51' N. We then came in sight of the volcano +of Guatimala. This presents a double peak like two sugar-loaves, +between which fire and smoke sometimes burst forth, especially +before bad weather. The city of Guatimala stands near the foot of +this high mountain, eight leagues from the South Sea, and forty +or fifty from the gulf of Amatique, at the bottom of the bay of +Honduras.[178] This city is reputed to be rich, as the country +around abounds in several commodities peculiar to it, especially +four noted dyes, indigo, otta or anotto, cochineal, and +silvestre.[179] Having in vain endeavoured to land on this part +of the coast, we proceeded to the small isle of <i>Tangola</i>. a +league from the continent, where we found good anchorage, with +plenty of wood and water.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 178: This description agrees with the +situation of St Jago de Guatemala, in lat. 14° 25' N. long. +31° 18' W., which is about thirty statute miles from the +South Sea. The modern city of Guatemala, standing nine miles to +the S.E., is only about sixteen miles from the sea at the head of +a bay of the same name.--E]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 179: This last is an inferior species of +cochineal, gathered from the uncultivated opuntia, while the true +cochineal is carefully attended to in regular plantations. Both +are the bodies of certain insects gathered by the Indians and +dried for preservation, constituting the most valuable scarlet +dye.--E]</blockquote> + +<p>A league from thence is the port of <i>Guataico</i>, in lat. +15° 52' N. long. 36° 20' W. one of the best in Mexico. On +the east side of the entrance, and about a mile from it, there is +a small isle near the shore, and on the west side a great hollow +rock, open at top, through which the waves force a passage with a +great noise to a great height even in the calmest weather, which +affords an excellent mark for seamen. This port runs into the +land about three miles in a N.W. direction, and is about one mile +broad. The west side affords the securest anchorage, the other +being exposed to S.W. winds, which are frequent on this coast. We +landed here to the number of 140 men, of whom I was one, on the +8th September, and marched about fourteen miles to an Indian +village, where we found nothing but <i>vanillas</i> drying in the +sun. The <i>vanilla</i> grows on a small vine, or bindwood shrub, +which winds about the stems of trees, producing a yellow flower, +which changes to a pod of four or five inches long, about the the +size of a tobacco-pipe stem. This is at first green, but becomes +yellow when ripe, having black seeds. When gathered they are laid +in the sun, which makes them soft and of a chesnut colour, when +they are squeezed flat by the Indians. The Spaniards buy this +commodity at a cheap rate from the Indians, and afterwards +preserve it in oil.</p> + +<p>The 10th we sent four of our canoes to wait for us at the port +of <i>Angelos</i>, about ten miles W. from Guataico, and on the +12th we sailed from Guataico. The 23d we landed 100 men at +Angelos, where they got salt beef, maize, salt, hogs, and poultry +but could bring little on board, being at a distance from the +shore. Hearing of a stout ship lately arrived at Acapulco from +Lima, and as Captain Townley was much in need of a better ship, +it was agreed to endeavour to cut that ship out of the harbour. +<i>Acapulco</i> is a town and harbour in lat. 16° 50' N. +long. 99° 44' W. on the western coast of New Spain, and +belonging to the city of Mexico, being the only place of commerce +on this coast, and yet there are only three ships that come to it +annually. Two of these go every year between this port and +Manilla in Luconia, one of the Philippines, and the third goes +once a year to and from Lima in Peru. This last comes to Acapulco +about Christmas, laden with quicksilver, cacao, and dollars, and +waits the arrival of the Manilla ships, from which she takes in a +cargo of spices, calicos, muslins, and other goods of India and +China, and then returns to Lima. This is only a vessel of +moderate size; but the two Manilla ships are each of about 1000 +tons burden.</p> + +<p>These Manilla ships arrange their voyages in such a way that +one or the other is always at Manilla. One of them sails from +Acapulco about the beginning of April; and after sixty days +passage across the Pacific Ocean, touches at Guam, one of the +Ladrones, to procure refreshments. She remains here only three +days, and pursues her voyage for Manilla, where she arrives in +the mouth of June. The other ship, being ready laden at Manilla +with India commodities, sets sail soon after for Acapulco. From +Manilla she steers a course to the latitude of 36° or 40° +N. before she can fall in with a wind to carry her to America, +and falls in first with the coast of California, and then is sure +of a wind to carry her down the coast to Acapulco. After making +Cape Lucas, the S. point of California, she runs over to Cape +<i>Corientes</i>, in lat. 20° 26' N. whence she proceeds +along the coast to <i>Selagua</i>, where the passengers for +Mexico are landed, and then continues along the coast to +Acapulco, where she usually arrives about Christmas.</p> + +<p>This port of Acapulco is very safe and convenient, and of +sufficient capacity to contain some hundred ships without danger. +There is a low island across the entrance, stretching from E. to +W. about a mile and a half long by a mile in breadth, having a +deep channel at each end, through either of which ships may enter +or go out, providing they go in with the sea-breeze, and out with +the land-wind, which regularly blow at stated times of the day +and night. The channel at the west end of the isle is narrow, but +so deep as to have no anchorage, and through this the Manilla +ship comes in; but the Lima ship takes the other channel. The +harbour runs eight miles into the land to the north, when it +closes up and becomes narrow, after which it stretches a mile to +the west. At the entrance of this channel, and on the N.W. side, +close to the shore, stands the town of Acapulco, near which is a +platform or battery with a good number of guns; and on the east +side of the channel, opposite the town, there is a strong castle, +having not less than forty pieces of large cannon, and the ships +usually ride at the bottom of the harbour, under the guns of this +castle.</p> + +<p>Captain Townley went with 140 men in twelve canoes to +endeavour to cut out the Lima ship; but finding her at anchor +within 100 yards of both the castle and platform, found it +impossible to effect his purpose, so that he was obliged to +return much dissatisfied. We accordingly sailed on the 11th +November along the coast to the N.W. between Acapulco and +Petaplan, where we found every where good anchorage two miles +from shore, but the surf beat with such violence on the coast +that there was no safe landing. Near the sea the country was low, +and abounding in trees, especially spreading palm-trees, some of +which were twenty or thirty feet high in the stem, but of no +great size. This part of the country was intermixed with many +small hills, mostly barren, but the vallies seemed fertile. The +hill of Petaplan, or Petatlan, sends out a round point into the +sea, called Cape <i>Jequena</i>, in lat. 17° 27' N. which +appears from sea like an island, and a little farther west there +is a knot of round hills, having an intervening bay, in which we +anchored in eleven fathoms. We here landed 170 men, who marched +fourteen miles into the country, when they reached a wretched +Indian village, deserted by the inhabitants, so that we only +found one mulatto-woman and four young children.</p> + +<p>Proceeding on the 18th about two leagues farther to the N.W. +we came to a pretty good harbour named <i>Chequetan</i>, having +the convenience of a good fresh-wafer river and plenty of wood. +On the 19th we landed ninety-five men, having the mulatto-woman +for their guide, at <i>Estapa</i>,[180] a league west from +Chequetan. The guide now conducted them through a pathless wood +along a river, and coming to a farm-house in a plain, they found +a caravan of sixty mules, laden with flour, chocolate, cheese, +and earthenware, intended for Acapulco, and of which this woman +had given them intelligence. All this they carried off, except +the earthenware, and brought aboard in their canoes, together +with some beeves they killed in the plain. Captain Swan went +afterwards on shore, and killed other eighteen beeves, without +any opposition. We found the country woody but fertile, and +watered by many rivers and rivulets.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 180: Istapha is to the eastward of +Petatlan, but Chequetan is not delineated in modern maps, neither +are any rivers noticed for a great way either N.W. or S.E. from +Petatlan.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Sailing on the 21st to the N.W. the land appeared full of +rugged hills, with frightful intervening vallies. On the 25th we +passed a high hill having several peaks, in lat. 18° 8' N. +near which there is a town named <i>Cupan</i>,[181] but we could +not find the way to it. The 26th, 200 men were sent to find out +the way to <i>Colima</i>, said to be a rich place, but after +rowing twenty leagues along shore they could not find any place +fit for landing, and saw not the least sign of any inhabitants, +so that they returned to the ships on the 28th. Soon after we got +sight of the volcano of Colima, remarkable for its height, six +leagues from the sea, in lat. 19° 5' N. It shewed two peaks +or summits, both of which always emit either fire or smoke. The +valley at the foot of this mountain is said to be fertile and +delightful, abounding in cacao, corn, and plantains, and is said +to be ten or twelve leagues wide towards the sea, and to reach +far into the country. It is watered by a deep river named Colima, +but which is so obstructed by a sand-bank at its mouth, as not +even to allow admission to canoes; but there is no landing on +this part of the coast, owing to the impetuosity of the surf. The +town of Colima is the chief place of this part of the +country.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 181: Probably Texupan, in lat. 18° 17' +N. is here meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 29th, 200 men were sent in canoes to attempt to land, and +if possible to find a road to the town of <i>Selagua</i>, seated, +as we were told by the Spaniards, at the N.W. end of the vale of +Colima, but they were unable to land, owing to the violence of +the waves. We came in sight of the port of <i>Selagua</i> on the +1st December. This is a bay in lat. 19° 8' N. parted in the +middle by a rocky point, so that it appears like two havens, in +either of which there is safe anchorage in ten or twelve fathoms, +though the western harbour is the best, and has besides the +advantage of a fresh-water rivulet. We saw a considerable number +of armed Spaniards on the land, to whom we made a visit next +morning with 200 men, but they soon fled. In the pursuit our +people found a broad road, leading through a wooded and rocky +country, which they followed for four leagues, but found not the +least appearance of any inhabitants, and therefore turned back. +On their return they took two straggling mulattoes, who said the +broad road led to the city of <i>Oarrah</i>,[182] four long days +journey into the country, and that these men came from that city +to protect the Manilla ship, which was expected to set her +passengers ashore at this place. The Spanish maps place a town +called Selagua hereabouts, but we could not find any appearance +of it.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 182: Guadalaxara, the latter part of which +is pronounced <i>achara</i>, is probably here meant. It is 160 +miles inland from the port of Selagua.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We pursued our voyage on the 6th December towards Cape +Corientes, in hopes of meeting the Manilla ship. The land on the +coast was moderately high, sprinkled with many rugged points, and +full of wood, having several apparently good ports between +Selagua and Cape Corientes, but we did not touch at any of them. +Cape Corientes, of which we came in sight on the 11th, in lat. +20° 28' N. is pretty high, being very steep and rocky towards +the sea, but flat on the top. I found its longitude from the +Lizard in England, by our reckoning, 121° 41' W.[183] As the +Manilla ship is obliged to make this point on her voyage to +Acapulco, we took up a station here with our four ships in such a +manner that we judged she could hardly escape us; but as we were +in want of provisions, fifty or sixty men were sent in a bark +beyond the cape to endeavour to get some. They returned, however, +on the 17th, not having been able to double the cape, but left +forty-six men in four canoes, who intended to attempt to get +beyond by rowing.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 183: It is only in long. 105° 88' W. +from Greenwich; that in the text, from computation or dead +reckoning, being considerably erroneous in +excess.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The 18th December we sailed to the isles of <i>Chametly</i>, +eighteen leagues to the east of Cape Corientes. These are five +small low and woody islands, surrounded with rocks, and lying in +form of a half-moon a mile from the shore, having safe anchorage +in the intermediate space. These isles are inhabited by fishers, +who are servants to some of the inhabitants of +<i>Purification</i>, a considerable town or city fourteen leagues +up the country.[184] We anchored at these isles on the 20th, and +here provided ourselves with wood and water, and caught great +abundance of rock-fish. Next day sixty of our men were sent under +Captain Townley to surprise an Indian village, seven or eight +leagues to the N.W.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 184: Villa de la Purificacion is +considerably to the S.E. of Cape Corientes, but the isles of +Chametly are omitted in modern maps. Puerto de Navidad, in lat. +19° 20' N. seems the haven belonging to +Purificacion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 24th the four canoes left by Captain Townley's bark +returned to the ships. They had got beyond the cape by means of +rowing to the valley of <i>Valderas</i>, or <i>Val d' Iris</i>, +the valley of flags, at the bottom of a deep bay, inclosed +between Cape Corientes on the S.E. and point <i>Pontique</i> on +the N.W. In this delightful valley they landed thirty-seven men, +who advanced three miles into the country, and were attacked by +150 Spaniards, horse and foot. Our men retreated into an +adjoining wood, whence they kept up a heavy fire on the +Spaniards, killing their leader and fourteen troopers, besides +wounding a great many, while four of our men were slain and two +wounded. Owing to this loss the Spaniards took to flight, and our +people were enabled to re-embark. This valley is about three +leagues broad, and is bounded towards the inland country by an +easy ascent, affording a delightful prospect of extensive +pastures well stored with cattle, interspersed with pleasant +groves of guavas, orange-trees, and lime-trees. The sandy bay +affords a safe landing, and has a fresh-water river, navigable by +boats, but becomes brackish in the end of the dry season, which +is in February, March, and April.</p> + +<p>We continued cruizing off Cape Corientes till the 1st January, +1686, when we sailed for the valley of <i>Valderas</i>, proposing +to provide ourselves with some beef, of which we were in great +need. At night we anchored in sixty fathoms, a mile from shore. +On the 7th we landed 240 men, fifty of whom were kept together in +a body to watch the motions of the Spaniards, while the rest were +employed in providing cattle. We killed and salted as much beef +as would serve us for two months, and might have procured a great +deal more if we had not run out of salt. By this time our hopes +of meeting the Manilla ship were entirely vanished, as we +concluded she had got past us to the S.E. while we were employed +in procuring provisions, which we afterwards learnt had been the +case, by the information of several prisoners. The loss of this +rich prize was chiefly owing to Captain Townley, who insisted on +taking the Lima ship in the harbour of Acapulco, when we ought to +have provided ourselves with beef and maize, as we might then +have done, instead of being now forced to procure provisions at +the critical time of her coming on the coast. We were likewise +deceived by the hope of falling in with rich towns and mines on +this coast, not then knowing that all the wealth of this country +is in the interior. Seeing that we were now entirely disappointed +in our hopes, we parted company, Captain Townley going back to +the S.E. while we in Captain Swan's ship went to the west.</p> + +<p>The 7th January we passed point Pontique in lat. 20° 38' +N. ten leagues from Cape Corientes, being the N.W. point of this +bay of the valley of Valderas. A league beyond this point to the +W. there are two little isles called the <i>Pontiques</i>, and +beyond these to the north the shore is rugged for eighteen +leagues. The 14th we came to anchor in a channel between the +continent and a small white rocky isle, in lat. 21° 15'. The +20th we anchored a league short of the isles of <i>Chametly</i>, +different from those formerly mentioned under the same name, +being six small isles in lat 28° 11' N. three leagues from +the continent.[185] One or two of these isles have some sandy +creeks, and they produce a certain fruit called <i>penguins</i>. +These are of two sorts, one red and the other yellow. The plant +producing the latter is as thick in the stem as a man's arm, with +leaves six inches long and an inch broad, edged with prickles. +The fruit grows in clusters at the top of the stem, being round +and as large as an egg, having a thick rind, inclosing a pulp +full of black seeds, of a delightful taste. The red penguin grows +directly out of the ground, without any stalk, sometimes sixty or +seventy in a cluster, no bigger than onions, but the shape of +nine-pins, the cluster being surrounded with prickly leaves +eighteen inches or two feet long.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 185: In modern maps these are called the +isles of <i>Mazatlan</i>, and are placed in lat. 28° 15' N. +The name given in the text appears taken from a town on this +coast called Charmela, in lat 22° 50' N. but +improperly.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Captain Swan went with 100 men in canoes to the north, to find +out the river <i>Culiacan</i>, supposed to be in lat. 24° +N.[186] and said to have a fair and rich town of the same name on +its banks; but after rowing thirty leagues he could not find the +river, neither was there any safe landing place on the coast. +Seven leagues N.N.W. from the Chametla or Mazatlan isles, our men +landed in a small lake or river, having a narrow entrance, called +<i>Rio de Sal</i> by the Spaniards, in lat. 23° 30' N.[187] +They here procured some maize at an adjacent farm; and learnt at +another landing place of an Indian town five leagues distant, to +which they marched. Coming near the place we were encountered by +a good number of Spaniards and Indians, who were soon beat off. +On entering the place we only found two or three wounded Indians, +who told us the town was named <i>Mazatlan</i>, and that there +were two rich gold-mines at the distance of five leagues.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 186: The mouth of the river of Cullacan is +in 24° 45' N. and the town of that name is about eighty-five +or ninety statute miles up the river, supposed to have been an +ancient seat of the Mexican nation, before their removal to the +vale and lake of Mexico.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 187: The Rio Rastla de Panuco, in 23° +45' N. is certainly here meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 2d February 80 men were landed in the river +<i>Rosario</i>.[188] We came to a pretty little town of the same +name, a considerable way up that river, where we were assured by +some prisoners that the gold-mines were not above two leagues +from thence; but as we had present occasion for provisions, we +carried about ninety bushels of maize on board from this place, +without searching for the mines. As this small supply was +insufficient for our necessities, we resolved to return to the +S.E. to the <i>Rio San Jago</i>,[189] where we anchored on the +11th. This is one of the most considerable rivers on the west +coast of New Spain. The country having a good appearance, Captain +Swan sent seventy men to look for a town. After rowing up and +down for two days, they landed in a corn field, and, while busy +in gathering maize, they seized an Indian, who told them of a +town called <i>Santa Pecaque</i>, four leagues farther.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 188: The mouth of this river is in lat. +28° N. about fifty miles S.E. from Cape Mazatlan, where +Dampier seems to have been then at anchor among the Mazatlan +isles.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 189: So called by Dampier from the town of +St Jago on its banks. Its proper name is the <i>Rio Grande</i>, +or river of <i>Tololotlan</i>. The mouth of this river forms a +large bay, in lat 21° 30' N. in which is the considerable +island of St Blas.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Returning to the ship with this intelligence, Captain Swan +went with 140 men in eight canoes, and landed five leagues up the +river, which was there about a pistol shot across with high +banks. He marched from thence through fertile plains and woods +for three or four hours, and on approaching St Pecaque the +Spaniards evacuated the place, so that we entered unopposed. This +town is situated in a spacious plain on the side of a wood, being +neatly built, with a market-place in the middle, but not large, +and has two churches. There are silver-mines five or six leagues +from this town, the ore from which is carried on mules to +Compostella to be refined. <i>Compostella</i>, the capital of +this part of Mexico, is twenty-one leagues from <i>Pecaque</i>, +being inhabited by seventy families of Spaniards, and by five or +six hundred mulattoes and Indians. Finding great plenty of maize, +sugar, salt, and salt fish at this place, Captain Swan divided +his men into two parts, one of which kept possession of the +place, while the other half were employed to carry these articles +to the canoes, which was done turn and turn about, with the +assistance of some horses. We continued this work for two days; +but on the 19th Captain Swan learnt from a prisoner that 1000 men +had marched from St Jago, a rich town three leagues from Pecaque +on the river, for the purpose of attacking us. On this Captain +Swan wanted our people to march altogether with what provisions +we could carry; but they refused to obey him till all the +provisions should be carried on board, and he was forced to allow +half of them to go on with fifty-four loaded horses. They had not +gone a mile from Pecaque when they were attacked by the Spaniards +from an ambush, and were all slain on the spot. Captain Swan +marched to their relief, but came too late, finding the whole +party slain and stripped naked; yet the Spaniards never once +attempted to engage him, having certainly paid dear for their +victory.</p> + +<p>Returning on board with the rest of his men, and what +provisions had been carried off, Captain Swan resolved to sail +for Cape Lucas in California, in hopes of trafficking with the +Indians there and in the <i>lake</i> or gulf of California. We +accordingly sailed on the 21st with the wind at N.W. and W.N.W. +and anchored at the islands of <i>Santa Maria</i>, in eight +fathoms on clean sand. There are three islands, usually called +the <i>Three Marias</i>,[190] stretching fourteen leagues from +S.E. to N.W. of moderate height, stony, barren, and uninhabited, +in lat 21° 30' N. [long. 106° 15' W.] from which Cape St +Lucas in California is forty leagues W.N.W. and Cape Corientes +twenty leagues E.S.E. We anchored off the east end of the middle +island, which we called Prince George's island. These islands +produce some cedars, and we found near the sea a green prickly +plant, with leaves like those of the <i>penguin</i> plant, and +roots like those of the <i>sempervivum</i>, but much longer, the +Indians of California subsisting mostly on these roots. We baked +and eat some of these roots, which tasted like boiled burdock +roots. I had been long afflicted with dropsy, and was here buried +in the sand for half an hour, covered up to the neck, which +brought on a profuse sweat, and I believe with good effect, for I +began to recover soon after. We careened here; but as there is no +fresh water to be had at this place in the dry season, we had to +return to the valley of Valderas, but finding the river brackish +we sailed three leagues nearer Cape Corientes, and anchored +beside a small round isle four leagues north of that cape, and +half a mile from the shore, opposite to a rivulet on the +continent, where we filled our water casks.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 190: In reality <i>four</i>, the fourth or +most northwesterly, being named St Juanica.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Being now sufficiently convinced of our mistaken notion of the +riches of this coast, founded on an erroneous idea that the +commerce of this country was carried on by sea, whereas it is +entirely conducted by land on mules, we now resolved to try our +fortune in the East Indies. With this view we sailed from Cape +Corientes on the 31st March, and next noon, being thirty leagues +from the cape, clear of the land-winds, we had the wind at E.N.E. +in which direction it continued till we were within forty leagues +of Guam. In all this long passage across the Pacific, nearly in +the lat. of 13° N. we saw neither fish nor fowl except once, +when by my reckoning we were 5975 miles west from Cape Corientes +in Mexico, and then we saw a vast number of <i>boobies</i>, +supposed to come from some rocks not far off, which are laid down +in some hydrographical charts, but we saw them not.</p> + +<p>May 20th, at four p.m. being in lat. 12° 55' N. and +steering W. we discovered, to our great joy, the island of Guam, +eight leagues off, having now only three-days provisions left. +<i>Guam</i> is one of the Ladrones, in lat. 13° 15' N. and +long. 216° 50' W. consequently its meridional distance from +Cape Corientes on the coast of Mexico is 111° 14', or about +7730 English miles. It is twelve leagues long by four broad, +extending north and south, and is defended by a small fort +mounted by six guns, and a garrison of thirty men with a Spanish +governor, for the convenience of the Manilla ships, which touch +here for refreshments on their voyage from Acapulco to Manilla. +The soil is tolerably fertile, producing rice, pine-apples, water +and musk melons, oranges, limes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit. +This last grows on a tree as big as our apple-trees, with dark +green leaves. The fruit is round and as large as a good +penny-loaf,[191] growing on the boughs like apples. When ripe it +turns yellow, with a soft and sweet pulp; but the natives pull it +green, and bake it in an oven till the rind grows black. They +scrape off the rind, and the inside is soft and white, like the +crumb of new-baked bread, having neither seed nor stone; but it +grows harsh if kept twenty-four hours. As this fruit is in season +for eight months in the year, the natives use no other bread in +all that time, and they told us there was plenty of it in all the +other Ladrone islands.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 191: This vague description may now safely +be changed to the size of a three-penny, or even four-penny +loaf--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 31st May we came to anchor near the middle of the west +side of this isle, a mile from shore, as there is no anchoring on +its east side on account of the trade-winds, which force the +waves with great violence against that side. The natives are of a +copper-colour, strong-limbed, with long black hair, small eyes, +high noses, thick lips, white teeth, and stern countenances, yet +were very affable to us. They are very ingenious in building a +certain kind of boats, called <i>proas</i>, used all over the +East Indies. These are about twenty-six or twenty-eight feet +long, and five or six feet high from the keel, which is made of +the trunk of a tree like a canoe, sharp at both ends. They manage +these boats with a paddle instead of a rudder, and use a square +sail, and they sail with incredible swiftness, twenty or even +twenty-four miles in an hoar. One side of these boats is quite +flat and upright like a wall from end to end, but the other side +is rounded and full-bellied like other vessels. Along this side, +parallel with the boat, at the distance of six or seven feet, a +log of light wood, a foot and a half wide, and sharp at both +ends, is fastened by means of two bamboos eight or ten feet long, +projecting from each end of the main boat, and this log prevents +the boat from oversetting. The English call this an out-lier, or +out-rigger, and the Dutch <i>Oytlager</i>. The air of this island +is accounted exceedingly healthy, except in the wet season +between June and October. The Indians inhabit small villages on +the west side of this island near the shore, and have priests +among them to instruct them in the Christian religion. By means +of a civil letter from Captain Swan to the Spanish governor, +accompanied by some presents, we obtained a good supply of hogs, +cocoa-nuts, rice, biscuits, and other refreshments, together with +fifty pounds of Manilla tobacco.</p> + +<p>Learning from one of the friars that the island of +<i>Mindanao</i>, inhabited by Mahometans, abounded in provisions, +we set sail from Guam on the 2d June with a strong E. wind, and +arrived on the 21st at the Isle of St John, one of the +<i>Philippines</i>. These are a range of large islands reaching +from about the latitude of 5° to about 19° N. and from +long. 120° to 126° 30' E. The principal island of the +group is <i>Luzon</i>, or Luçonia, in which Magellan was +slain by a poisoned arrow, and which is now entirely subject to +the Spaniards. Their capital city of Manilla is in this island, +being a large town and sea-port, seated at the south-west end, +opposite to the island of Mindora, and is a place of great +strength and much trade, especially occasioned by the Acapulco +ships, which procure here vast quantities of India commodities, +brought hither by the Chinese and Portuguese, and sometimes also +by stealth by the English from fort St George or Madras; for the +Spaniards allow of no regular trade here to the English and +Dutch, lest they should discover their weakness, and the riches +of these islands, which abound in gold. To the south of Luzon +there are twelve or fourteen large islands, besides a great +number of small isles, all inhabited by, or subject to, the +Spaniards. But the two most southerly, Mindanao and St John, are +not subjected by the Spaniards.</p> + +<p>The Island of St John, or <i>San Juan</i>, is about the lat. +of 9° N. on the east side of Mindanao, and about four leagues +from that island, being about thirty-eight leagues in length from +N.N.W. to S.S.E. and about twenty-four leagues broad in the +middle, having a very rich and fertile soil. <i>Mindanao</i>, +next to Luzon, is the largest of the Philippines, being sixty +leagues long by forty or fifty leagues broad. Its southern end is +in lat. 5° 30' N. the N.W. extremity reaching to 9° 40' +N. The soil is generally fertile, and its stony hills produce +many kinds of trees, most of which are unknown to Europeans. The +vallies are supplied with brooks and rivulets, and stored with +various sorts of ever-green trees, and with rice, water-melons, +plantains, bananas, guavas, nutmegs, cloves, betel-nuts, +<i>durians, jacks</i>, or <i>jackas</i>, cocoa-nuts, oranges, +&c.; but, above all, by a species of tree called <i>libby</i> +by the natives, which produces sago, and grows in groves several +miles in length. The poorer people feed on sago instead of bread +for several months of the year. This tree resembles the +cabbage-tree, having a strong bark and hard wood, the heart of +which is full of a white pith, like that of the elder. They cut +down the tree and split it open, taking out the pith, which they +stamp or beat well in a mortar, after which, putting it into a +cloth, and pouring in water, they stir it well, till the water +carries all the farinaceous substance through the cloth into a +trough. After the farinaceous matter has settled to the bottom, +the water is poured off, and the sago is baked into cakes, which +they use as bread. The sago, which is carried from hence to other +parts of the East Indies, is dried into small grains, and is used +with milk of almonds as a remedy against fluxes, being of an +astringent quality.</p> + +<p>The other fruits of this island, being well known or described +by various authors, need not be here mentioned. The nutmegs here +are very large and good, but the natives do not care for +propagating them, being afraid lest the Dutch, who monopolize the +spice islands, should be induced to pay them a hostile visit. +This island also produces abundance of animals, both wild and +tame, as horses, cows, buffaloes, goats, wild hogs, deer, +monkeys, and others; also guanas, lizards, snakes, scorpions, and +centipeds. These last are not thicker than a goose-quill, but +five inches long, and they sting fiercer even than scorpions. Of +tame fowl, they have only ducks and hens; but have plenty of wild +birds, as pigeons, parrots, parrakeets, turtle-doves, bats as +large as our kites, and an infinite number and variety of small +birds. Their wild hogs feed in the woods in prodigious herds, and +have thick knobs growing over their eyes. There are mountains in +the interior of this island, which afford considerable quantities +of gold. Their chief fish are bonitos, snooks, cavallies, breams, +and mullets; and they have abundance of sea-tortoises; and the +island has many harbours, creeks, and rivers.</p> + +<p>Considering the situation of this island, so near the Line, +its climate is by no means excessively hot, especially near the +sea, where the sea-breeze cools the air by day and the +land-breeze at night. The wind blows from the east between +October and May, and then blows from the west till October. The +west wind produces the wet season, which is heaviest in July and +August, and, gradually lessening in September, ceases in October, +when the east wind brings fair weather, which lasts till May. The +inhabitants of this island, though all resembling each other in +colour and stature, and all Mahometans, differ considerably in +language and government. The mountaineers, or <i>Hillanoons</i>, +who inhabit the interior, and are masters of the gold-mines, are +also rich in bees-wax, both of which they exchange with the +<i>Mindanayans</i> on the coast for foreign commodities. The +<i>Sologus</i> inhabit the N.W. end of the island, and traffic +with the inhabitants of Manilla and some other adjacent islands, +but not with the Mindanayans. The <i>Alfoores</i> were formerly +under the same government with the Mindanayans, but were +separated from them by falling to the share of the younger +children of the sultan of Mindanao, who has of late laid claim to +their allegiance.</p> + +<p>The Mindanayans, properly so called, are of low stature, with +small limbs, little heads, straight bodies, small eyes short +noses, wide mouths, thin red lips, and sound black teeth, having +black lank hair, and tawny complexions, but rather brighter than +other Indians. They are ingenious and nimble, much addicted to +indolence, obliging to strangers, but implacable when once +disobliged. They wear turbans on their heads, formed of a cloth +tied once round, the ends of which hang down, and are ornamented +with lace or fringe. They also wear breeches, over which they +have a kind of frocks, but have neither shoes nor stockings. The +women tie their long black hair in a knot, which hangs down +behind, being smaller featured than the men, with very small +feet. Their garments consist of a piece of cloth sewed together +at both ends, forming a kind of petticoat, with a frock reaching +a little below the waist. They covet the acquaintance of white +men, and are very free with them, as far as they have liberty. +When any strangers arrive at the city of Mindanao, the men come +aboard and invite them to their houses, where they immediately +ask if any of them wish to have a <i>pagally</i>, or female +friend, which they must accept, and return the favour by some +small present, which is repeated from time to time, in return for +which they eat, drink, and sleep, in their friend's house.</p> + +<p>The capital is named Mindanao, like the island, being on the +south-west side, two miles from the sea, on the bank of a small +river, in lat. 7° N. The houses are built on posts, fourteen +to twenty feet high, consisting only of one floor, but divided in +many rooms by partitions. The house or palace of the sultan rests +on 150 great posts, being much higher than any of the others, and +had great broad stairs leading up to it from the ground. In the +hall there were twenty pieces of iron cannon upon field +carriages, and the general and other great men have also some +cannon in their houses. The floors are generally well covered +with mats, and they have no chairs, but usually sit cross-legged. +Their ordinary food is rice, sago, and some small fish; but the +better people use buffaloe beef, and fowl, with a great deal of +rice, every one using their fingers, as they have no spoons. The +inhabitants of the city of Mindanao speak both the Mindanayan and +Malay languages, and their prayers are in Arabic, in which also +they retain some Turkish words. Some of the old people of both +sexes can speak Spanish, as the Spaniards had formerly several +forts in the island, and had assuredly reduced the whole if they +had not been afraid of an attack from the Chinese at Manilla, on +which account they withdrew their troops from Mindanao, when the +father of the present sultan laid hold of the opportunity to gain +possession of their forts, and to expel them from the island. At +present they are most in fear of the Dutch, for which reason they +have often invited the English to make a settlement among them, +believing them not so ready to encroach as either of the other +nations.</p> + +<p>The chief trades in this city are goldsmiths, blacksmiths, +carpenters, and shipwrights, for they build good ships both for +war and trade. Their chief commodities for export are gold, +bees-wax, and tobacco; the two first being purchased from the +mountaineers, and the last grows in all parts of the island in +great plenty. They exchange these commodities for calicoes, +muslins, and China silks. The Mindanao tobacco is reckoned as +good as that of Manilla, and yet ten or twelve pounds of it may +be bought for a rial, or the eighth part of a dollar. The natives +are generally afflicted with a dry itchy scurf all over their +bodies, and by scratching, the skin peels off in small white +flakes, like the scales of small fish, leaving broad white spots +all over their bodies; but they did not seem to make any great +account of this disease, which is not infectious. They are also +troubled with small-pox; but their most common diseases are +fevers, agues, fluxes, and violent griping pains in their bowels. +They have many wives, but I could not learn their marriage +ceremonies.</p> + +<p>They are governed by a sultan, who has no great revenue, yet +is so absolute that he even commands the private purse of every +one at his pleasure. The reigning sultan was between fifty and +sixty years old, and had twenty-nine concubines besides his wife +or sultana. When he goes abroad he is carried in a couch on the +shoulders of four men, and is attended by a guard of eight or ten +men. His brother, named Rajah Laut, a shrewd person of good +conversation, is both chief minister and general, and both speaks +and writes Spanish very readily. In war they use swords and +lances, and every one, from the highest to the lowest, constantly +wears a <i>criss</i> or dagger, much like a bayonet. They never +fight any pitched battles, but construct small wooden forts +defended by guns, whence the adverse parties endeavour to +surprise each other in small parties, and never give or take +quarter.</p> + +<p>We came first to anchor on the N.E. side of the island, but +learning from the natives that the city of Mindanao was on the W. +side, we again set sail and anchored on the 4th July on the S.W. +side of a very deep bay in fifteen fathoms, the land within the +bay on the E. side being very high and woody, but watered by +several rivers. On its W. side, bordering on the sea, there were +large plains covered with long grass, on which were vast herds of +deer, of which we killed as many as we thought fit. We remained +here till the 12th, when we again set sail, and arrived on the +18th at the entrance of the river of Mindanao, in lat. 7° N. +and long. 124° 35' E. from Greenwich.[192] We here anchored +in fifteen fathoms on clean hard sand, two miles from the shore. +Soon afterwards Rajah Laut came on board, accompanied by one of +the sultan's sons, and asked in Spanish, Who we were? Being told +we were English, he asked if we came to settle among them, of +which they had formerly some promise, and were now in hopes of +its being effected, to serve to protect them against the Dutch, +whom they greatly dreaded. Had we properly considered the matter, +it might have been much for our advantage, Mindanao being +conveniently situated between the Spice islands and the +Philippines, and besides the three islands of +<i>Meangis</i>,[193] only about twenty leagues from hence, abound +with spice and cloves. We were also well filled for such a +settlement, having among our company all manner of artificers, as +carpenters, bricklayers, shoemakers, tailors, and the like, as +also abundance of tools, arms, cannon, and sufficient ammunition +to begin with; and, notwithstanding the great distance from +England, we might easily have had supplies from thence, providing +ships set out the latter end of August, proceeding round Cape +Horn, and so directly across the Pacific for Mindanao, or else +coasting along the western shore of America as far as was +necessary, and then stretching across to have the advantage of +the trade-wind. By this way the voyage might be accomplished in +six or seven months, which would at least require eight or nine +by the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 192: In Harris, this longitude is made +23° 12' W. from the Lizard by some strange error, being +235° 25' W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 193: It does not appear what islands these +were, unless perhaps the Silibabo islands, about half way between +Mindanao and the northern end of Gilolo, but considerably farther +distant than is stated in the text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Rajah Laut invited Captain Swan ashore, and promised to +furnish what provisions we wanted, and desired him in the mean +time to secure our ship within the river, for fear of the +approaching westerly monsoon, which Captain Swan agreed to after +some deliberation. The river being narrow, and having not above +eleven feet water on the bar in spring-tides, we had much ado to +get our ship a quarter of a mile above its mouth, where we moored +head and stern in a hole, so that she lay always afloat. The city +of Mindanao is a mile in length, but not very broad, stretching +along the right bank of the river as you go up, though there are +some houses also on the opposite side. The inhabitants frequently +came aboard of our ship, and invited our men to their houses, +where they were kindly entertained after their manner with +tobacco and betel, and such of them as had money, or other +articles of value, did not want their <i>pagalies</i>, or female +friends. Captain Swan was entertained daily by Rajah Laut, and +those of our men who had no money had boiled rice, with scraps of +fowl and buffalo beef given them. Yet, after all these outward +shews of friendship, we soon after began to discover that Rajah +Laut had sinister intentions. The sheathing on our ship's bottom +being much eaten by worms, we began in November to remove the old +sheathing, to see whether the main plank remained sound; on +seeing which, Rajah Laut shook his head, saying he had never seen +a ship with two bottoms. Besides, he did not perform his promise +of providing us with beef, pretending he could not get any; and +he borrowed a considerable sum in gold from Captain Swan, which +he never repaid.</p> + +<p>These circumstances at length induced most of our men to think +of leaving Mindanao, especially those who had not much money; and +as our ship was new sheathed and tallowed on the 10th December, +they began to urge our commander to depart in continuation of our +voyage. Accordingly, Captain Swan appointed the 13th January, +1687, for all our company to be on board and ready to sail; but +many being unwilling to depart so soon, having dispersed about +the country at the instigation of Rajah Laut, and even Captain +Swan not being very ready to come aboard, by reason of some +insubordination among the men, they deposed him from the command, +and chose Captain Teat in his room. After this we weighed in the +morning of the 13th January, and sailed out of the river, having +Captain Swan and forty-four more of the men on shore, besides +sixteen others we had buried there.</p> + +<p>We coasted along the south side of the island to the west, and +passed next day in sight of <i>Chambungo</i>,[194] another town +in this island, thirty leagues west from the river of Mindanao, +and said to have a good harbour. On the 10th February we coasted +along the west side of the Philippine islands, and while passing +Panga,[195] a large island inhabited by the Spaniards, we saw +many fires, which we supposed were intended to give notice of our +approach, it being rare to see a ship on this coast. The 18th we +anchored in ten fathoms at the N.W. end of the island of +<i>Mindora</i>. This is a large island, the middle of which is in +lat 12° 45' N. its length from N.W. to S.E. being forty +leagues. While here, a canoe with four Indians came from Manilla, +who told as that the harbour of Manilla was seldom without twenty +or thirty vessels, Chinese, Portuguese, and Spaniards, and if we +had a mind to trade clandestinely, they would deliver letters +from us to certain merchants there.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 194: Probably Sambuang, at the western +extremity of Mindanao, in lat. 6° 52' N. long. 122° 20' +E. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 195: Pany, or Panai.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We sailed again on the 21st, and came on the 23d to the S.E. +end of Luçonia, where we took two Spanish barks from +<i>Pagassanam</i>,[196] a small town on the N.E. part of this +island, having goods on board for the Acapulco ship. This great +island of Luçonia extends in length through six degrees of +latitude, from 12° 30' to 18° 40' both N. and is +surrounded by many small isles, especially at its north end, +Mindora being the chief of these isles, which communicates its +name to the straits which run between it and the main island of +Luçonia. The surface of this large island is partly +composed of large pasture plains, and partly of mountains, the +latter of which afford some gold; and the plains, or savannahs, +are stored with buffaloes, bullocks, horses, sheep, goats, and +hogs. The inhabitants are Indians, who live in little towns, +under the Spanish jurisdiction, and are instructed in the Romish +religion by Spanish priests.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 196: Perhaps the gulf on Pangasian is here +meant, on the E. side of Luzon, in lat. 16° N.]</blockquote> + +<p><i>Manilla</i> is the chief city, or rather the only one, in +the island, seated at the foot of a ridge of high hills, fronting +the harbour, near the S.W. point of the island, in lat. 14° +38' N: This city is defended by a strong wall, and is composed of +well-built spacious houses, covered with pan-tiles, the streets +being broad and regular, with a large market-place in the middle, +and has many fair churches and convents. The harbour is large; +and, besides the two great Acapulco ships, contains abundance of +small vessels belonging to the place, besides usually thirty or +forty stout Chinese junks; and the Portuguese also have liberty +to trade to this place. Many Chinese merchants also reside +constantly in this city. A league from the city, nearer the sea, +there is a strong fortress to defend the harbour, where the great +ships lie at anchor. Most of this account I received from Mr +Coppinger, our surgeon, who had formerly been thither, sailing +from the Coromandel coast.</p> + +<p>The time of the year being now too far spent for our purpose, +we resolved to sail for Pulo Condore, a knot of small islands on +the coast of Cambodia, and to return in May to lie in wait for +the Acapulco ship. We accordingly made sail from the island of +Luçonia on the 26th of February; and coming into the lat. +of 14° N. we steered our course W. for Pulo Condore,[197] and +in our way got sight of the south end of the <i>Pracel</i> +shoals, being three small isles, or large spots of sand, just +above water, only a mile from us. We came in sight of Pulo +Condore on the 13th March, and anchored next day on the north +side of that island, in ten fathoms, on clean hard sand, two +miles from the shore.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 197: This course ought rather to have been +called W.S.W. as Pulo Condore is lat. 8° 40' N.]</blockquote> + +<p>Pulo Condore is the chief of a group of isles, and the only +one of them that is inhabited, in lat. 8° 44' N. long. +106° 5' E. forty leagues S. by E. from the mouth of the river +of Cambodia, otherwise called the <i>Japanese</i> river. Two of +these isles are tolerably high and large, and the rest very +small. The principal isle, off which we anchored, is five leagues +long from E. to W. and three leagues broad, but in some places +not a mile. The other large isle is three miles long from N. to +S. and between these, at the west end of the largest, there is a +convenient harbour, the entrance being on the north, where the +two isles are a mile asunder. On the largest isle there grows a +tall tree, three or four feet diameter, which the inhabitants cut +horizontally half through, a foot from the ground, after which +they cut out the upper part in a slope, till it meets the +transverse cut, whence a liquor distils into a hollow made in the +semicircular shelf, or stump, which, after being boiled, becomes +good tar, and if boiled still more, becomes perfect pitch, both +of these answering well for marine use. Such a tree produces two +quarts of this juice daily for a month, after which it dries up, +but recovers again.</p> + +<p>There are mango trees in this island, the fruit of which the +inhabitants pickle with salt, vinegar, and a little garlic, while +green. On straight trees of a foot diameter, grapes, both red and +white, and of a pleasant taste, much like those of Europe, grow +in clusters about the body of the tree, like the cocoas. This +isle also abounds in wild nutmeg-trees, which resemble our +walnut-trees, and the fruit grows among the boughs, in the same +manner as walnuts. This fruit resembles the true nutmeg, but +smaller, and has neither smell nor taste. Besides hogs, guanas, +and lizards, these islands have various birds, as parrots, +parakeets, turtle-doves, and wild poultry. The sea affords +limpits, muscles, and tortoises. These isles have many brooks of +fresh water running into the sea for ten months of the year; and +they are very conveniently situated for trade with Japan, China, +Manilla, Tonquin, Cochin-china, and other places.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants are originally from Cochin-china, being of a +middle stature and well shaped, but of much darker colour than +the natives of Mindanao, having lank black hair, small black +eyes, and small noses, yet tolerably high, with small mouths, +thin lips, and white teeth. They are civil, but very poor, their +only employment being to collect tar, and to prepare a little oil +from tortoises, both of which they export to Cochin-china. They +offer their women to strangers for a small matter; a custom +universal in Pegu, Siam, Cochin-China, Cambadia, Tonquin, and +India, as also on the coast of Guinea. They are pagans, +worshipping chiefly the elephant and the horse, besides images of +birds and fishes, but I saw none resembling the human shape.</p> + +<p>Having careened our ship, and laid in a supply of fresh water, +we sailed from Pulo Condore on the 21st of April, steering W. by +S. for the bay of Siam, and on the 23d came to the isle of +<i>Ubi</i>, off the S.W. cape of Cambadia, forty leagues W. of +Condore. This isle is seven or eight leagues in circuit, and is +higher land than any of the Condore isles. It has good water on +the north side, where there is also good anchorage, but the best +anchorage is on the W. side, opposite a small bay. On the 24th we +entered the bay of Siam, which is very deep, and went among the +islands at the bottom of the bay, in one of which we found a +small village inhabited by fishermen, but no fish, so we turned +back, and did not return to the isle of <i>Ubi</i> till the 13th, +and were detained there by storms till the 21st, when we sailed +for Condore, where we anchored on the 24th. Here five or six of +our men, going on board a Malay vessel, were stabbed by the crew. +Having provided our ship with wood and water, we sailed from +Condore on the 4th June, intending to proceed for Manilla; but, +by contrary winds, were forced to steer for <i>Pratas</i>, a +small low island inclosed with rocks, in lat. 21° N. between +Canton and Manilla; and the east winds continuing, were obliged +to approach the coast of China, where we anchored on the 25th +June, at the east end of the island of St John, on the coast of +Quan-tong, or Canton, in China, in lat. 22° 30' N.[198] They +have here great plenty of rice, with hogs, buffaloes, goats, and +some oxen. The inhabitants were Chinese, and were consequently, +at this time, under the dominion of the Tartars.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 198: This Island of St John is probably +that named Sancianor, or Tchang-te-huen, in lat. 21° 33' N. +long. 112° 25' E. to the S.W. of the bay of Canton. The +latitude in the text would lead deep among the islands of that +bay, which does not appear to have been the +case.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this island we found a small town in marshy ground, the +houses of which were small, mean, and ill-furnished, but built on +posts, the inhabitants principally subsisting by the cultivation +of rice. While we lay here at anchor, a Chinese junk rode beside +us, which was flat both at the head and stern, having many little +huts, three feet high, on her deck, thatched with palmito leaves. +Her cabin was large, having an altar, on which was a lamp +continually burning. The hold was divided into several +compartments, the bulkheads between which were so tight, that if +a leak should spring in any of these divisions, the goods in the +others would receive no damage. Every merchant has his own room, +or division, in the hold, in which he stows his own goods, +sometimes lodging along with them. These junks have only two +masts, a main and fore, the latter having a square-sail and yard, +and the former a sail that is narrow aloft, like a sloop's +main-sail. In fine weather they have also a top-sail, which, in +foul weather, they lower to the deck, yard and all. The main-mast +of one of their largest junks is equal in size to that of our +third-rate men of war, but all of one piece, not built.</p> + +<p>Fearing the approach of a storm, and wanting sea-room, we +weighed on the 3d June, and stood out to sea; but next day we +were assailed by the most violent tempest at N.E. I ever saw, +which lasted at intervals for three days, when the weather became +quite serene. We then refitted our ship, but our men were so +terrified by the last storm, and dreading the approach of full +moon, that we resolved to steer for the <i>Pescadores</i>, or +<i>Fisher Isles</i>, in lat. 23° 40' N. off the western side +of <i>Tai-ouan</i>, or Formosa. This is a numerous group of +islands in the Straits of Formosa, having a good harbour between +the two eastermost; and on the west side of the most easterly +there is a large town with a fort, in which was a garrison of 300 +Tartars. The houses in this town were low, yet neatly built; and +on the other island, on the west side of the harbour, there was +another small town near the sea, inhabited by Chinese. Most of +the islands in this group have some Chinese inhabitants. We were +very civilly treated by the Tartar governor, who sent us some +presents, and among the rest a heifer, the beef of which was +excellent; but would not allow us to trade, or even to land on +the isle.</p> + +<p>We sailed thence on the 29th July, passing the S.W. end of +Formosa, a large island reaching from lat. 22° to 25° 18' +both N. and in long. 121° E. It was formerly well inhabited +by the Chinese, and frequented by the English; but the Tartars +have since spoiled the harbour, lest the Chinese should fortify +themselves there. On the 6th August we came to anchor on the east +side of the northermost of the <i>Five Islands</i>, or +<i>Bashees</i>, in fifteen fathoms. These islands are from the +latitude of 20° 26' to 21° 13' both N. and long. 121° +50' E. Contrary to our expectations, we found three or four large +towns on the island at which we anchored. The westmost of these +islands, which the Dutch among us named <i>Orange</i> isle, is +the largest, being seven or eight leagues from N. to S. and two +from E. to W. There are two other large islands to the S. of +this; the northern of which we named <i>Grafton</i> isle, which +is four leagues from N. to S. and a league and a half from E. to +W. The other, and most southerly, we named <i>Monmouth</i> isle, +being three leagues from N. to S. and one from E. to W. Two other +isles, lying E. and W. between Monmouth isle and the S. end of +Orange isle, we called <i>Bashee</i> isle, from a certain liquor +we drank there, and <i>Goat</i> isle.</p> + +<p><i>Orange</i> isle is the largest, but barren, rocky, and +uninhabited, and has no anchorage on its coasts. <i>Monmouth</i> +and <i>Grafton</i> isles are both hilly, but well inhabited. +<i>Goat</i> isle and <i>Bashee</i> isle are flat, the former +having a town. The hills in all these isles are rocky; but the +intermediate vallies are fertile in grass, plantains, bananas, +pine-apples, pompions, sugar-canes, potatoes, and some cotton, +and are well supplied with brooks of fresh water. They are also +well stored with goats and hogs, but have hardly any fowls, +either wild or tame. The natives are short and thick, with round +faces and thick eye-brows, with hazel-coloured eyes, rather +small, yet larger than those of the Chinese. Their noses are +short and low; their mouths and lips middle-sized, with white +teeth; and their hair is thick, black, and lank, which they cut +short. Their complexion is of a dark copper colour, and they go +all bare-headed, having for the most part no clothes, except a +clout about the middle, though some have jackets of plantain +leaves, as rough as a bear-skin. The women have a short petticoat +of coarse calico, reaching a little below the knees, and both +sexes wear ear-rings of a yellow metal dug from their mountains, +having the weight and colour of gold, but somewhat paler. Whether +it be in reality gold or not, I cannot say, but it looked of a +fine colour at first, which afterwards faded, which made us +suspect it, and we therefore bought very little. We observed that +the natives smeared it with a red earth, and then made it red-hot +in a quick fire, which restored its former colour.</p> + +<p>The houses of the natives are small, and hardly five feet +high, collected into villages on the sides of rocky hills, and +built in three or four rows, one above the other. These rocky +precipices are framed by nature into different ledges, or deep +steps of stairs as it were, on each of which they build a row of +houses, ascending from one row to another by means of ladders in +the middle of each row, and when these are removed they are +inaccessible. They live mostly by fishing, and are very expert in +building boats, much like our Deal yawls. They have also larger +vessels, rowed by twelve or fourteen oars, two men to each bank. +They never kill any goats themselves, but feed on the guts and +skins, which last they broil after singing off the hair.[199] +They also make a dish of locusts, which come at certain seasons +to devour their potatoes; on which occasions they catch these +insects in nets, and broil or bake them in earthen pans, when +they are tolerable eating. Their ordinary drink is water; but +they make also a kind of liquor of the juice of sugar-canes, +boiled up with black-berries, allowed afterwards to ferment four +or five days in jars. It then settles and becomes clear, when it +affords a strong and pleasant liquor, which they call +<i>bashee</i>, resembling our English beer both in taste and +colour. I can give no account of their language, as it has no +affinity either to Chinese or Malay. Their weapons are lances +headed with iron, and they wear a kind of armour of buffalo-hide +without sleeves, reaching below their knees, where it is three +feet wide, and as stiff as a board, but close at the +shoulders.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 199: This is rather inexplicable, as we +cannot conceive how they got the guts and skins without killing +the goats.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>I could not perceive that they had any worship, neither saw I +any idols among them. They seemed to have no government or +precedency, except that the children were very respectful to +their parents. They seem, however, to be regulated by some +ancient customs, instead of laws, as we saw a young lad buried +alive, which we supposed was for being guilty of theft. The men +have each only one wife, and she and her children were very +obedient to the head of the family. The boys are brought up to +fishing along with their fathers; and the girls work along with +their mothers in the plantations in the vallies, where each +family plants a piece of ground proportional to their numbers. +They are a civil quiet people, not only among themselves, but in +their intercourse with strangers; for all the time we were here, +though they came frequently aboard, exchanging their yellow +metal, goats, and fruits, for iron, we never saw them differ +either among themselves or with our men, though occasions of the +latter were not wanting. They have no coins, neither any weights +or scales, but give their pieces of yellow metal by guess. During +our stay here, we provided ourselves with seventy or eighty fat +hogs, and great plenty of potatoes, for our intended voyage to +Manilla.</p> + +<p>On the 25th September, we were forced out to sea by a violent +storm, which lasted till the 29th, when we made the best of our +way back to the Bashees, which we reached on the 1st October. +This last storm so disheartened our men, that they resolved to +give up the design of cruising before Manilla; and, by the +persuasions of Captain Read, who now commanded, and Captain Teat, +our master, it was determined to sail for Cape Comorin, and +thence into the Red Sea. As the eastern monsoon was at hand, our +nearest and best way had been to pass through the Straits of +Malacca; but Teat persuaded the men to go round by the east side +of the Philippines, and thence, keeping south of the Spice +islands, to pass into the Indian ocean by the south of Timor.</p> + +<p>We sailed from the Bashees on the 3d October, by the east of +the Philippines, and on the 15th, being to the south of +Luçonia, directed our course west for Mindanao. On the +16th we anchored between two small isles, in lat. 5° 10' N. +four leagues from the island of Mindanao. While here, we learnt +from a young prince of one of the isles, that Captain Swan and +some of his men were still at Mindanao, and in great esteem for +their services against the Alfoores: but I was since informed, +that he and his surgeon, when going on board a Dutch ship in the +road, were overset by the natives and drowned, by order of rajah +Laut, as we supposed, who had seized all his gold.</p> + +<p>We sailed on the 2d November for Celebes, and anchored at its +N.E. end on the 9th. The 30th, while steering between two shoals, +in lat. 3° S. ten leagues from Celebes, we saw three +waterspouts towards evening. A waterspout is a piece of a cloud +hanging down in a sloping direction, sometimes bending like a +bow, but never perpendicular. Opposite to its extremity the sea +begins to foam, and the water is then seen gently moving round in +a circle, increasing to a rapid whirling motion, rising upwards, +an hundred paces in circumference at the bottom, but lessening +gradually upwards to the size of a spout, through which the +sea-water appears to be conveyed into the cloud, as is manifest +by its blackness and increase of bulk. After this the cloud, +which was before immoveable, drives along for half an hour, +accompanied by the spout. When the sucking is over, and breaks +off, all the water which was below the spout, or pendulous cloud, +falls again into the sea with a terrible clashing noise. These +spouts are, however, more frightful than dangerous.</p> + +<p>We had sight of the Isle of Bouton on the 1st December, and +anchored there on the 5th, where we staid till the 11th, +procuring eggs, fowls, potatoes, and other provisions from the +natives, who are Mahometans, and speak the Malay language. +Continuing our voyage, we saw the N.W. point of Timor on the +28th, and on the 29th stood S. towards New Holland, which we fell +in with on the 4th January, 1688, in lat. 16° 50' S. <i>New +Holland</i> is a vast tract of land, but whether island or +continent is hitherto unknown.[200] We anchored at a point of +land, three leagues to the east of which is a deep bay. The land +was low and sandy, the points only excepted, which were rocky, as +were some islands in the bay. We found here no fresh water, +except by digging. There were various trees, and among these the +tree producing dragon's-blood. We saw no fruit-trees, nor so much +as the track of any animal, except one footstep of a beast, which +seemed the size of a large mastiff. There were a few land-birds, +but none bigger than a black-bird, and scarcely any sea-fowl; +neither did the sea afford any fish, except tortoises and +manatees,[201] both of which are in vast plenty.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 200: It is now known to be a vast island, +stretching from the lat. of 11° 40' to 38° 40', both S. +and from long. 109° 40' to 154° 50' both E. being 1870 +miles from N. to S. and 2400 miles from E. to W.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 201: The Lamentin, or Trichechus Manatus +australis of naturalists.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The inhabitants are the most miserable wretches in the +universe, having no houses or coverings but the heavens, and no +garments except a piece of the bark of a tree tied round the +waist. They have no sheep, poultry, or fruits, and subsist +wretchedly on a few shell-fish, such as cockles, muscles, and +periwinkles, living without any government or order, and cohabit +promiscuously like brutes. Their bodies are straight, thin, and +strong-limbed, having great heads and eye-brows, with round +foreheads. Their eye-lids are constantly half closed, to keep out +flies, which are here very numerous and troublesome. They have +large bottle noses, thick lips, and wide mouth; and both men and +women, young and old, wanted the two front teeth of the upper +jaw. They have no beards, and their hair is short and curled like +the negroes, their complexion being equally black with them. +Their weapons are a kind of wooden swords or clubs, and long +straight poles sharpened at one end. Of their language I can only +say that they speak much in the throat. We landed several times, +and brought the natives to some degree of familiarity with us, by +giving them some old clothes, but could never prevail on them to +assist us in carrying water or any other thing, as they seemed +quite averse from labour.</p> + +<p>We sailed hence on the 12th March, and on the 7th April got +sight of Sumatra, whence we directed our course for the Nicobar +islands, which we came in sight of on the 4th May, and anchored +next day in a small bay at the N. end of the island of Nicobar +Proper, in lat. 7° 30' N. This island produces plenty of +cocoa-nuts, and <i>mallories</i>, a fruit as large as the +bread-fruit of Guam, which the natives boil in covered jars.</p> + +<p>Mr Hall, Mr Ambrose, and I, being desirous to leave the unruly +crew among whom we had sailed so long, were set ashore at this +island, intending to proceed for Acheen. We accordingly left this +island on the 5th May, accompanied by four Malays and a +Portuguese, in a Nicobar canoe, not much bigger than one of the +London wherries used below bridge. On the 18th we had a violent +storm, when we expected every moment to be swallowed up by the +waves; but on the 19th, to our great joy, we saw <i>Pulo Way</i>, +near the N.W. end of Sumatra, as was supposed, but it turned out +to be the golden mountain of Sumatra, and at length arrived at +Acheen in June. In July I went with Captain Weldon to Tonquin, +and returned to Acheen in April, 1689. In September of that year +I went to Malacca, and came back about Christmas, 1690. Soon +after I went to Fort St George or Madras, where I remained five +months, and came back to Bencoolen, an English factory on the +west coast of Sumatra.</p> + +<p>Before relating my return to England, it may be proper to give +some account of <i>Jeoly</i>, the painted prince, who afterwards +died at Oxford. He was purchased along with his mother at +Mindanao by Mr Moody; and when Mr Moody and I went together to +Bencoolen, he gave me at parting half the property of this +painted prince and his mother, leaving them to my care. They were +born in the island of <i>Meangis</i>, which abounds in gold, +cloves, and nutmegs, as he afterwards told me. He was curiously +painted, down the breast, behind, between the shoulders, and most +of all on the fore part of his thighs, in the nature of +flower-work. By what I could understand, this painting was done +by pricking the skin, and rubbing in the gum of a tree called +<i>damurer</i>, used instead of pitch in some parts of India. He +told me, that the natives of his country wore gold ear-rings, and +golden bracelets about their arms and legs; their food being +potatoes, fowls, and fish. He told me also, that being one day in +a canoe with his father and mother, they were taken by some +fishers belonging to Mindanao, who sold them to the interpreter +of Rajah Laut, with whom he and his mother lived as slaves for +five years, and were then sold for fifty dollars to Mr Moody. +Some time afterwards, Mr Moody gave me the entire property of +both, but the mother soon died, and I had much ado to save the +son. After my arrival in the Thames, being in want of money, I +first sold part of my property in Prince Jeoly, and by degrees +all the rest. He was afterwards carried about and shewn for +money, and at last died of the small-pox at Oxford.</p> + +<p>During my stay at Bencoolen I served as gunner of the fort; +but when my time was expired, I embarked with my painted prince +in the Defence, Captain Heath, in order to return to England. We +sailed on the 25th January, 1691, in company with three other +ships, and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope in the beginning of +April. After a stay of six weeks, we set sail on the 13th May for +St Helena, where we arrived on the 20th June. We left this island +on the 2d July, and came to anchor in the Downs on the 16th +September, 1691, after an absence of twelve years and a half from +my native country.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-9" id="chapter4-9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY WILLIAM FUNNELL, IN +1703-1706.[202]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>This voyage has usually passed under the name of Captain +William Dampier; but as he proceeded only to the South Seas, and +the circumnavigation was entirely completed by Mr William +Funnell, who sailed originally as his mate, it seemed proper to +place his name in the title of the voyage, instead of that of +Captain Dampier, with whom, in this voyage, we have much less to +do. It is just however to state, that it was on the credit of +Captain Dampier, and in expectation that he would be able to do +great things against the Spaniards in the South Sea, that this +expedition was undertaken. The point aimed at was plunder, rather +than discovery, yet there was something remarkable done even in +this way; and the unknown islands met with by Mr Funnell, in his +passage between the South Sea and India, strongly confirmed the +reports of former navigators, of large, populous, and +well-cultivated countries in those parts.[203] The narrative of +Funnell also is well digested, and may be read with much +satisfaction, as giving a fair and agreeable account of his +adventures.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 202: Funnel's narrative in Dampier's +Voyages, vol. IV. pp. 1.--208. Harris, I. 131. Callender, III. +66. and III. 145.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 203: All these fancies are now shewn to be +imaginary.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This expedition was undertaken at the beginning of the +Succession war, in the reign of Queen Anne; and high expectations +were raised from it, of performing great exploits against the +Spaniards, who had accepted the Duke of Anjou as their king. The +merchants believed that a very profitable expedition might be +made into these parts, with a reasonable force, where the +buccaneers, with small and ill-provided vessels, had performed +such extraordinary things; and therefore, having obtained the +best information they could as to the proper manner of +accomplishing the design, they cheerfully contributed to the +expences necessary for the purpose. With this view, they at first +fitted out two ships of 26 guns and 120 men each, which were +designed for the South Seas. One of these was named the St +George, commanded by Captain William Dampier, in which Mr William +Funnell sailed as chief mate. The other was the Fame, commanded +by Captain John Pulling. Both ships were amply supplied with +warlike stores, and well victualled for nine months; and had +commissions from Prince George, the queen's husband, +lord-high-admiral, to proceed against the French and Spaniards; +and the officers and crews of both were hired on the principles +of sharing in the expedition, <i>no purchase no pay</i>.</p> + +<p>While they lay in the Downs, some difference arose between the +two captains, on which Captain Pulling went away with his ship, +the Fame, intending to cruize among the Canary Islands, and never +afterwards joined. Before sailing on the originally-proposed +expedition, Dampier was joined by a small ship, the Cinque-ports +galley, Captain Charles Pickering, of ninety tons, carrying 16 +guns and 63 men, well victualled and provided for the voyage. The +original plan of the voyage was to go first up the Rio Plata, as +high as Buenos Ayres, in order to capture two or three Spanish +galleons, which Dampier alledged were usually there. If this part +of the expedition succeeded, so as to get to the value of about +600,000<i>l</i>. it was to be proceeded in no farther; but if his +first object failed, they were then to cruize on the coast of +Peru, to intercept the ships which bring gold from Baldivia to +Lima. Should this again fail of success, they were to attempt +some rich towns, as Dampier might direct. After this, they were +to go to the coast of Mexico, at that time of the year when the +great galleon usually comes from Manilla to Acapulco, which is +commonly reported to be worth fourteen millions of dollars.</p> + +<p>On their arrival at Madeira, learning that the galleons from +Buenos Ayres had already arrived in safety at Teneriffe, that +part of the expedition was laid aside. "How well we pursued the +latter part of our instructions, the subsequent history of our +voyage will sufficiently declare; in recording which I have used +the greatest sincerity, narrating every thing exactly in the +manner in which it happened, and setting down all that appeared +worthy of notice, with all truth and plainness: so that I flatter +myself the whole will be found useful, and that the latter part +especially will be esteemed new, curious, and interesting, as it +contains many things not before published or known."[204]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 204: This introduction is from the pen of +Harris; and the last paragraph, marked by inverted commas, is +given in the words of Funnell.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage, till the Separation of Funnell +from Dampier.</i></p> + +<p>We sailed from the Downs on the 30th April, 1703, and anchored +on the 18th May at Kinsale, in Ireland. We here refitted and +victualled our ship, and were joined by the Cinque-ports, and +left Kinsale on the 11th September. We reached Madeira on the +25th, where we did not come to anchor, but plied off and on for +our boats, which were sent ashore for necessaries. By a good +observation, I made this island to be in lat 32° 20' N. and +long. by my account, 18° 5' W. from London.[205] October 6th, +we saw Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd islands, in lat. 15° 12' +N. long. 23° 20' W. off which we plied all night; but the +surf ran so high that we durst not send our boats ashore for +salt. We accordingly bore up next day for St Jago, and anchored +at noon of the 7th in Prior bay [Port Praya] in that island. This +is one of the most fruitful of the Cape Verd Islands, abounding +in hogs, poultry, guinea fowl, monkeys, maiz, oranges, lemons, +dates, water-melons, plantains, bananas, and other fruits, having +good water, but troublesome to get at, and wood is very dear. The +inhabitants of this island were formerly Portuguese, banished +thither for murders, thefts, and other crimes; but are now mostly +all black, in consequence of these men having issue by their +female slaves, which were Guinea negroes. Yet they still retain +the vices of their progenitors, thieving being more common here +than in any place I ever visited, insomuch that they will take a +man's hat from his head at noon day and in the midst of company. +In trading with them, it is necessary not to let them have your +goods before theirs are delivered, or you are sure to lose them. +We here watered and refreshed ourselves; and here a disagreement +took place between Captain Dampier and his first-lieutenant, who +was turned ashore at midnight, with his chest and servant. At +four next morning, being the 13th October, we sailed from St +Jago, not fully resolved where next to touch at.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 205: Lat. 32° 33' N. long. 17° 5' +W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 22d October we caught four fish; a shark, a dolphin, a +jelly-fish, and an old-wife. The shark and dolphin are well +known, and need not be described in this place. The +<i>Jelly-fish</i> was about fourteen inches long and two inches +deep, having sharp teeth, a sparkling eye, and long extended +mouth. It has a prodigiously high fin on its back, of a slimy +substance, except that its rays, which are thirty-two in number, +are firm and stiff. It has also one small fin under the throat, +of the same slimy substance with the large one on its back. The +greater part of the body is of a silver colour, with numerous +small dark spots and circular bands, all the rest of its +substance being a green jelly-like substance, whence the name. +The <i>Old-wife</i> is about two feet long and nine inches high +in the back, having a small mouth, a large eye, and a large broad +fin beginning at the hinder part of the head, and reaching to the +tail. It has also a large broad fin on each side near the gills, +and a pretty large one under the belly. The body is deep blue, +and the fins a very light blue, tipt with yellow. The head has +many spots, and the body is regularly streaked longways.</p> + +<p>We passed the equator on the 2d November, about forty-five +leagues west from the meridian of St Jago. On the 8th, in lat. +10° 20' S. we saw three small islands on the coast of Brazil, +called the islands of St Ann, not above a stone's throw from each +other, and very full of wood, as is the whole coast of Brazil. +These islands are about four miles from the main, and are much +troubled with southerly winds, which blow in gusts, so that ships +ought here to lay their best anchor to the south, and all little +enough sometimes for their safety. They produce nothing except +wood, and are frequented by vast flocks of sea fowl, called +boobies by our sailors. The <i>booby</i> is about the size of a +duck, some entirely white and others grey, having feet like a +duck, and subsist mostly on flying-fishes, which they catch while +in the air. I have made many a meal on these birds, but it was +for want of other victuals, for they taste very fishy, and are +apt to make one sick, if not previously well salted. They are so +silly, when weary of flying, that they will light upon your hand, +if held out to them.</p> + +<p>We anchored at the island of <i>Le Grand</i>, in lat, 23° +30' S.[206] on the 24th of November. This is a very woody island, +on which are several good springs of water. It is about nine +miles in circuit, and three miles from the main, the woods being +infested with many savage animals, which make a most hideous +noise in the night. It produces sugar, rum, and several kinds of +fruits, but all very dear, on account of supplying the town of St +Paul with necessaries. <i>St Paul</i> is 300 miles inland from Le +Grand; but by the vast high mountains which are between, it is +reckoned a distance of sixty days journey. Near St Paul there is +said to be a gold mine, which is accounted the richest hitherto +known. We here wooded, watered, and refitted our ships; and our +new first-lieutenant, falling out with the captain, went ashore, +together with eight of our men, and left us. Here also Charles +Pickering, captain of the Cinque-ports, departed this life, and +was succeeded in the command by his first-lieutenant, Mr Thomas +Stradling. At this island there are good fish of various sorts, +one of which, called the <i>Silver-fish</i>, is about twenty +inches long, and eight deep, from back to belly, having five +small fins immediately behind the head, and one large fin from +the last of these to the tail; one middle-sized fin on each side +near the gills, and a large fin from the middle of the belly to +the tail, which last is half-moon shaped. The eyes are large, the +nostrils wide, and the mouth small. It is a thin fish, and full +of bones, of a fine transparent white, like silver.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 206: Isla Grande is only in lat 30° N. +and St Paul's, stated in the text, as 300 miles distant, is +hardly 200, and is at within twenty-five miles of the coast +farther south.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving the isle of Le Grand on the 8th December, we passed +the islands of Sebalt de Weert[207] [<i>Falklands</i>] on the +29th. In lat. 57° 50' S. we had a terrible storm, in which we +lost company of our consort, the Cinque-ports, on the 4th +January, 1704. When in lat 60° 51' S. on the 20th, believing +we had sufficiently passed Cape Horn, we tacked to the N. and got +sight of the island of <i>Mocha</i> on the 4th February. This +island is in lat. 38° 20' S. twenty miles from the coast of +Chili, and is well inhabited by Indians, who are always at war +with the Spaniards, and indeed with all white men, because they +consider them all as Spaniards. It is a high island, four leagues +long, having many shoals on its west side, which extend a league +or more out to sea. It is about 112 miles to the northward of +Baldivia.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 207: Called Sibbil de Ward Islands in the +narrative of Funnell.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We saw the island of Juan Fernandez on the 7th February, and +on the 10th, while passing the great bay, we saw the +Cinque-ports, which had arrived three days before. We accordingly +anchored in the great bay, in thirty-five fathoms. At this island +we wooded, watered, and refitted our ships, giving them a heel to +clean their sides as low as we could, which took up much time, +and occasioned both companies to be much on shore. In this island +there are abundance of cabbage-trees, which are excellent, though +small. The cabbage-tree, which is a species of palm, has a small +straight stem, often ninety to one hundred feet long, with many +knots or joints, about four inches asunder, like a bamboo-cane. +It has no leaves except at the top, in the midst of which the +substance called cabbage is contained, which, when boiled, is as +good as any garden cabbage. The branches of this tree we commonly +twelve or thirteen feet in length, and at about a foot and a half +from the tree the leaves begin, which are about four feet long +and an inch and a half broad, the leaves growing so regularly +that the whole branch seems one entire leaf. The cabbage, when +cut out from among the roots of the branches, is usually a foot +long and six inches diameter, and as white as milk. From the +bottom of the cabbage there spring out several large bunches of +berries, like grapes, each bunch being five or six pounds weight. +The berries are red, and about the size of cherries, each having +a large stone in the middle, and the pulp tastes like that of +haws.</p> + +<p>The sea-lion is so called, as I suppose, because he roars +somewhat like a lion, and his head also has some resemblance to +that animal, having four large teeth in front, all the rest being +short, thick, and stubbed. Instead of feet and legs, he has four +fins; the two foremost serving him, when he goes ashore, to raise +the fore part of the body, and he then draws the hind part after +him. The two hinder fins are of no use on land, but only when in +the water. This animal is very fat, for which reason we killed +several of them, from which we made a ton of oil for our lamps; +and, while at this island, made use of it also for frying our +fish. They have short light-coloured hair while young, becoming +sandy when old. Their food is fish, and they prey altogether in +the water, but come on land to sleep, when five, six, or more of +them huddle together like swine, and will often lie still three +or four days, if not molested. They are much afraid of men, and +make off as fast as they can into the water. If hard pressed, +they will turn about, raising their bodies on their fore fins, +and face you with their mouths wide open, so that we used to clap +a pistol to their mouth, and fire down their throat. Sometimes +five or six of us would surround one of these monsters, each +having a half pike, and so prick him till he died, which commonly +was the sport of two or three hours.</p> + +<p>While we were at this island, a difference took place between +Captain Stradling and his men, which was at last compromised by +Captain Dampier. On the 29th February we descried a sail, on +which all hands hurried on board, and we slipped our cables and +stood out to sea. The Frenchman, for so he afterwards proved, +immediately tacked and stood from us, while we followed the chase +with all sail, and got up with him about eleven at night, but did +not deem it convenient to engage till day. During the chase our +pinnace towed under water, and was cut adrift. Captain +Stradling's boat also got loose, in which were a man and a +dog.</p> + +<p>At sun-rise next morning, 1st March, we began to engage the +French ship, which was of about 400 tons burden, and thirty guns, +well manned. We fought her very close, broadside to broadside, +for seven hours; and then a small gale springing up, she sheered +off. In this action our consort only fired ten or twelve guns at +the commencement, when she dropt astern, and never again came up +during the whole fight, in which we had nine men slain and +several wounded. We were desirous to have had another trial with +the Frenchman, knowing it would be of bad consequences to let him +go, as he would discover our being in these seas to the +Spaniards; but our captain opposed this, saying, he knew where he +could get to the value of 500,000<i>l</i>. at any time. So we +concluded to return to Juan Fernandez, to get our anchors, long +boats, and several tons of water already casked, together with a +ton of sea-lion oil, which we had left there. Captain Stradling +also had left five of his men, who were gone to the west part of +the island, and knew nothing of our going away after the enemy. +He had also left all his sails, besides those at the yards, and a +great many other stores.</p> + +<p>We had then the wind at S. directly off Juan Fernandez, so +that it was difficult to go there; and while beating up we saw +two sail, to which the Cinque-ports was very near, and they fired +several shots at her, but she rowed away to us, and reported them +to be two French ships of about 36 guns each; on which the two +captains thought it convenient to bear away for the coast of +Peru, leaving Captain Stradling's five men, with his other +stores, which he could ill spare, and now we had neither of us +any boats. We accordingly stood for the coast of Peru on the 6th +March, and fell in with it on the 11th, in lat. 24° 53' +S.[208] The land here was very high, having three distinct ranges +of hills behind each other, that nearest the water the lowest, +and the farthest off the highest. We coasted along shore to the +northward, and passed the port of <i>Capaipo</i> on the 14th, +said to be a very good harbour, fenced from almost all winds. The +land is here inhabited by Indians, who make good wines; and it is +said to abound in good meat, corn, and other provisions, and from +this port they export wine, money, and other goods for Coquimbo. +We would willingly have gone ashore for refreshments, but could +not for want of boats.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 208: There must be a material error here, +as they afterwards, in sailing along the coast <i>to the +northwards</i>, passed Copaipo, which is in lat. 27° 13' S. +and they consequently must have fallen in with the coast of +Chili, improperly named Peru in the text, considerably farther +south.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Continuing along the coast, which is the highest and most +mountainous I ever saw, we were surprised, on the 19th of March, +to see the waves changed to a red colour for seven or eight +leagues, though on sounding we had no ground at 170 fathoms; but +on drawing up some of the water, we found the colour owing to a +vast quantity of fish-spawn, swimming on the surface. We were now +in lat. 16° 11' S. having passed the three famous ports of +Arica, Ylo, and Arequipa. The 22d March we were off the harbour +of Callao de Lima, when we saw two ships steering for that port, +to which we gave chase, and soon came up with the sternmost, +which proved to be the ship we had fought with off the island of +Juan Fernandez. We were very eager to stop her from going in, to +prevent the Spaniards from having intelligence of us, and +hindering their merchant ships from putting to sea, and did not +question our taking her, being all now in health; whereas on the +former occasion, between twenty and thirty of our men were very +sick and weak. But Captain Dampier was averse to attack her; and +while the matter was disputing, both ships got into the port of +Lima, from whence twenty ships such as ours could not have forced +them out. This proceeding gave great offence to most of the crew, +and might have proved of bad consequence, had we not taken two +very considerable prizes a few days afterwards, one of 150 and +the other of 200 tons. We took out of these every thing that we +thought useful, and then dismissed them.</p> + +<p>The 5th of April, we began to prepare for the great exploit +our captain meditated, of landing on the coast and plundering +some rich city; for which purpose our carpenters were ordered to +fit up the launches or long boats we had taken from our prizes, +so as to land our men in safety, and to fit two swivels in each +launch. On the 11th we took a bark of fifty tons, laden with +plank and cordage, as if sent on purpose for our present service. +This was in sight of <i>Gallo</i>, under which island we anchored +next day with our prize, which we kept to use in the intended +enterprise. The island of <i>Gallo</i> is in lat. 2° 45' N. +long. 76° 38' W. from London,[209] and about five leagues +from the main; being two leagues long and one league broad. When +approached from the south, it shews three hummocks which seem at +a distance as three separate islands, the land between being very +low; but when to the N.W. of the S. end you will see a small +island, or rock rather, resembling a ship under sail. From this +island the main land is in sight, being very low near the sea, +but prodigiously high up the country. We anchored off the N.W. +part of this island, two cables length from the shore, in +thirty-five fathoms on hard sand, the N. point bearing N. 1/2 W. +and the S. point S.W. The watering place goes in with a full gap, +over which, on the hill, is a plain spot of red earth, bearing +N.W. 1/2 N. but there are several other good watering places in +the island. The best anchorage is on the N.E. part at +<i>Legnetta</i>, where a ship may wood and water quite secure +from any enemy. The island is very woody, affording large timber, +which is often shipped hence for Peru. There are here a few wild +monkeys, with abundance of lizards; among which is one called the +<i>lion-lizard</i>, about the size of a man's arm, one that I +measured being three feet eleven inches from the head to the end +of the tail. It has a kind of large comb on its head, standing up +like a helmet, as if to defend its head, and when attacked it +erects this comb, which otherwise lies in a deep groove on the +head, just fitted for its reception, so that it can hardly be +seen when down. This animal has very large eyes, and a large +mouth, in which are a great many small sharp teeth. The skin is +rough and of a dark colour, full of black, yellow, and bluish +spots. It runs very swift, yet our dog caught many of them.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 209: Lat. 1° 56' N. long. 78° 50' +W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After remaining here five days, we began to hoist our anchors +to set sail, when we discovered a ship standing in for the +island, which we took. She was a small vessel of fifty tons, +commanded by a Mestizo, on board of which we found a Guernsey +man, who had been taken by the Spaniards, while cutting logwood +in the Bay of Campeachy above two years before, and must have +continued a prisoner during life if we had not released him. On +sailing from Gallo, our purpose was to attack the town of Santa +Maria, not far from this on the continent to the E. expecting +there to have found a great quantity of gold, brought thither +from the adjacent mines of the same name. But this design +miscarried, whether from fear, confusion, or the enemy having +early intelligence of our motions, which enabled them to cut off +many of our men. This, however, is certain, that we were quite +sick of our fruitless attempts on shore by the 1st May, and +immediately re-embarked. We were now so short of provisions, that +five boiled green plantains were allotted for six men; but, when +almost out both of hope and patience, a vessel came and anchored +close beside us at midnight, which we took without resistance. +This proved a most valuable prize, being a ship of 150 tons, +laden with flour, sugar, brandy, wine, about thirty tons +marmalade of quinces, a considerable quantity of salt, and +several tons of linen and woollen cloth; so that we had now a +sufficient supply of provisions even for four or five years. I +was put aboard of this prize on behalf of Captain Dampier and his +company, and the master of the Cinque-ports, in behalf of Captain +Stradling and his crew.</p> + +<p>We carried our prize into the Bay of Panama, and anchored +under the island of Tobago on the 14th of May. Here Captains +Dampier and Stradling disagreed, and the quarrel proceeded to +such length, that they could not be reconciled, so that at last +it was determined to part company, all the men being at liberty +to go with which captain they pleased, in consequence of which +five of our men went over to Captain Stradling, and five of his +men came to us. We were now informed by the prisoners, that there +were 80,000 dollars on board our prize, which had been taken on +board at Lima clandestinely, and were concealed at the bottom of +the hold in the run of the ship. But Captain Dampier would not +credit this, neither would he wait till we should rummage her to +the bottom, lest delay might mar his great designs. Having, +therefore, taken on board a quantity of provisions from the +prize, she was dismissed; and we set sail in the St George on the +19th May, leaving the Cinque-ports behind, intending again to +proceed for the coast of Peru.</p> + +<p>We took a vessel of 120 tons on the 7th June, bound from +Truxillo for Panama, and laden with flour, sugar, brandy, and +other articles, with some bales of flowered silk. In her we found +a packet of letters, and the first of these we happened to read +was from the captain of the ship we had fought off Juan +Fernandez, and fell in with again going into Callao. It was +directed to the president of Panama, and stated, "That he had +fought with two English privateers off Juan Fernandez, the +smaller having only fired eight or ten guns at him, and then fell +astern and did not come up again during the fight, as he believed +for want of wind; while the large ship fought him yard-arm and +yard-arm for more than six hours, killed a great many of his men, +and wounded such numbers, that he had landed thirty-two at Lima, +each of whom had lost a leg, an arm, or an eye, and he had been +nearly taken, as at parting they had given themselves over for +lost, not having a sufficient number of men left to defend +themselves." By other letters, we learnt that the two French +ships we afterwards saw near Juan Fernandez had picked up a boat +at sea, in which were an Englishman and a dog; had been in at the +island of Juan Fernandez, and had taken up our anchors, cables, +and long-boats, with all Captain Stradling's stores, as also his +five men and our negro who were left there. We learnt also, that +the Spaniards had fitted out two men of war against us, one of +thirty-two, and the other thirty-six brass guns, all twenty-four +pounders, each having 350 sailors and 150 soldiers, all picked +men, and had been cruizing for us in the Bay of Guayaquil, +between point St Helena and Cape Blanco, from the 7th to the +12th.</p> + +<p>We were forced to go under an easy sail, as our prize sailed +very heavily, wherefore we went into <i>Sardinas</i> Bay, in lat. +1° 20' N. where we anchored with our prize in ten fathoms, +about four miles from the shore, for the purpose of rummaging +her. We durst not go farther in, because of many shoals and +sand-banks, which were very imperfectly laid down in all our +charts. The sea-coast is inhabited by Indians, but not in any +great numbers, and has several small fresh-water rivers. From +hence, all the way south, till we came to the Bay of +<i>Atacarnes</i>, in lat. 0° 54' N. the sea-side is composed +of white cliffs; and there are many shoals as far as <i>Punta de +la Galera</i>, in lat. 0° 48' N. Six leagues S.W. of Sardinas +Bay is the great river of St Jago, the mouth of which is about +three quarters of a mile wide, but has no good anchorage till +well within. This river is seldom used by ships, being out of the +way, yet the country here produces abundant provisions of all +sorts. We careened our ship and rummaged our prize in the Bay of +Sardinas, and watered at one of the fresh-water rivers, which was +as white as milk, and both smelt and tasted very strong of musk, +occasioned by many alligators swimming in it. We shot several of +these creatures, one of which measured thirty feet in length, and +was bigger about than a bullock.</p> + +<p>The alligator is covered over with great scales from head to +tail, having very large sharp teeth, and very long claws. It is +amphibious, living both on land and in the water, and when lying +on shore is often mistaken at a distance for a great tree fallen +down. It runs very fast on the land, and is of such strength that +one of them will take a horse or a cow into the water, and there +devour it. They will seize on any thing, either on land or in the +water, and often make great havock among cattle near their +haunts, which are usually in fresh-water rivers. The Indians are +not greatly afraid of them, either on land or in the water. In +the former case, they run in circles, and this unwieldy animal is +unable to turn his body quickly, so that they easily get away +from them. The Indians also go into the water to seek them, +taking in one hand a piece of iron pointed and baited at both +ends, with two cross pieces a little below the points. Holding +this iron by the middle, when the alligator rises to bite, which +he always does with, the head above water, the Indian holds out +the iron to him which he snaps at, and it fastens in his mouth, +keeping his jaws open like a gag. The female lays about 100 eggs +at a time, as large as goose eggs; but quite spherical, and +having shells as thick almost as those of an ostrich. The flesh +of the alligator is not fit to be eaten, being very strong and +musky; and the very water of the rivers they frequent was so +strong of musk that a draught of it was like to suffocate us, yet +there are no instances of its being injurious to health.</p> + +<p>Being off the Bay of Guayaquil on the 21st June, we saw a +ship, and came up with her next day, being one of the Spanish men +of war fitted out to take us, carrying thirty-two guns. We did +all we could to gain the weather-gage, but carrying away our +fore-top-mast, were obliged to come to action from the leeward, +so that she kept a good distance from us, and we could not use +our small arms. Dividing our crew into two equal parts, one +managed the guns while the other looked on, and when those at the +guns were weary, the others took their places, alternately +refreshing those who were not employed, by which means we fired +much faster than the enemy, making about 560 discharges, while +they only made 110 or 115. We thus fought from noon till half +past six, though at such distance that our shot would hardly +reach him, while his flew over us. Growing dusk, both ceased +firing, none of our men being either killed or wounded, and only +two through carelessness had their hands and faces scorched. We +lay-to all night, expecting in the morning to renew the fight; +but he had made sail from us in the night.</p> + +<p>We now returned to the Bay of Atacames in search of +provisions, for which purpose we sent our boat ashore with twenty +men, who soon returned, saying they had found an Indian village +of fifty houses, but the inhabitants were all fled and had left +nothing behind. In the river we found a fine bark of about fifty +tons, with as much new plank in her as would have built another +of equal size; and we took another of about ten tons, laden with +plantains. This we resolved to retain, instead of a long-boat. +She had two masts and two square-sails, and having fitted her for +our purpose, we called her the Dragon. The country in the +neighbourhood of this bay is very pleasant, being well wooded and +watered. About seven leagues to the N.E. is the Bay of <i>St +Mattheo</i>, the land about it being very high, and there are +many shoals about it, running two leagues out to sea. For three +or four leagues the water is only from four fathoms to six, and +this bay has white cliffs both to the north and south. In the +bottom of the bay there are two rivers running into the sea, both +of which are what the seamen call <i>alligator water</i>, that +is, white and musky as before described. On each side of these +rivers there are shoals of sand; and near their mouths are fine +groves of tall spreading green trees, which are the marks by +which they may be found, as their mouths are narrow, and not +discernible at a distance. These rivers are seldom frequented by +the Spaniards, except for refreshments, for which they are well +adapted, as all the adjoining country abounds with every kind of +provisions that this part of the world produces. About two +leagues up these rivers there are several Indian villages, who +furnish the Spanish ships which come here with cocoa-nuts, +plantains, bananas, and other kinds of fruit.</p> + +<p>The <i>cocoa-tree</i> is generally from fifty to an hundred +feet high, and for the most part straight and slender. The leaves +are four fathoms, or four and a half long, at the very top of the +tree, and serve excellently for thatching houses. At the bottom +of the leaves the cocoa nuts grow in clusters of ten, fifteen, or +twenty, hanging by a small string which is full of joints. Each +nut, with its outer rind, is larger than a man's head, and within +this outer rind is a hard woody shell which will hold near a +quart of liquid. The nut or kernel lines the inside of this +shell, and within this kernel is about a pint and half of pure +clear water, very cool, sweet, and pleasant. The kernel also is +very good and pleasant; but when old, we scrape it all down, and +soak it in about a quart of fresh water for three or four hours, +which is then strained, and has both the colour and taste of +milk, and will even throw up a thick head not unlike cream. This +milk, when boiled with rice, is accounted very wholesome and +nourishing by the doctors, and was given to our sick men. When +the nut is very old, the kernel of itself turns to oil, which is +often used to fry with, but mostly for burning in lamps. The +outer end of the nuts may be applied to the purposes of flax, and +of it the natives make a kind of linen, and it is also +manufactured into ropes and cables, which are sold in most parts +of America and the West Indies. The shell of this nut makes very +pretty drinking cups, and it also burns well, making a fierce hot +fire. Thus the cocoa-tree affords meat, drink, oil, clothing, +houses, firing, and rigging for ships.</p> + +<p>The <i>plantain-tree</i> is only about thirteen or fourteen +feet high and four feet round, its leaves being eight or nine +feet long and two broad, ending in a round point. The fruit grows +at the bottom of the leaves, on a great stalk, in a pod about +eight inches long and the size of a black pudding, being of a +fine yellow colour, often speckled with red. The inside of this +is white, but the plantain itself is yellow like butter, and as +soft as a pear. There sometimes grow fifty or sixty of these pods +on one stalk, and five or six stalks on one tree. They are an +excellent fruit, and most parts of the East and West Indies +abound with them. The <i>banana</i> tree is much the same with +the plantain, but the fruit is only about six inches long, fifty +or sixty of them growing on one stalk, and is extraordinarily +mellow, sweet, and good.</p> + +<p>We left the bay of Atacames on the 31st July, accompanied by +our prize the Dragon, and passing the Bay of Panama, came to the +Bay of Nicoya on the 16th August, in lat 9° 30'N. in which we +anchored near certain islands near the centre of the bay, called +Middle Islands, where we careened. While here, Mr Clippington, +the chief mate, having quarrelled with Captain Dampier, drew over +twenty-one men to his party, and making himself master of the +bark, in which was all our ammunition and the best part of our +provisions, hoisted anchor, and went without the islands, whence +he sent us word that he would put ashore at an Indian house all +our powder, shot, and other ammunition, reserving only what was +necessary for his own use, which he did accordingly, and we sent +our canoes to fetch it on board.</p> + +<p>These islands in the Bay of Nicoya are extremely pleasant and +fruitful, abounding in all things necessary for life, such as +birds of various kinds, several sorts of fish, and amphibious +animals, particularly turtles and guanas. Among the birds is a +very beautiful one called the <i>Maccaw</i>, having feathers of +all the colours of the rainbow. It is in shape like a large +parrot, with a white bill, and black legs and feet. The +<i>carrion crow</i> is as big as a small turkey, which it +perfectly resembles in shape and colour; but its flesh smells and +tastes so strong of muck that it is not eatable. The +<i>pelican</i> is almost as big as a swan, being mostly white +with brown tips to the wings, having a long bill with a large +cross joining the lower part of the bill, and hanging down the +throat like a bag or satchel of great size, into which it +receives oysters, cockles, conchs, and other shell-fish, which it +is unable to break, and retains them there till they open, when +it throws them out and picks out the meat. They are good food, +but taste a little fishy. Their feet are broad, and webbed like +ducks, being water fowl, yet they commonly roost on rocks or +trees, and always sit with their heads to the wind, varying their +posture as that changes. They are heavy birds and fly slowly, and +always when sitting rest their long bills upon their breasts. The +<i>Guana</i> is an amphibious animal, found both on land and in +the water. It is about three feet long, some more some less, and +is very ugly, having large sharp scales, black and green, from +the fore part of the head to the end of the tail. The mouth is +furnished with numerous large and sharp teeth, and it has four +long claws on each foot. They commonly breed in holes about the +roots of old trees near the water. When stewed with some spice, +their flesh is very white and eats well, making also good broth; +but if not extraordinarily well boiled, it is very dangerous +meat, making men very sick and often occasioning fevers.</p> + +<p>There are several kinds of <i>turtles</i>, or sea tortoises, +but we account the green turtle the best meat. When they want to +lay their eggs, they go on shore in some sandy bay, where they +make a hole in the sand with their fins, two feet and a half +deep, in which one turtle will deposit from eighty to ninety +eggs, which they cover over with the sand, leaving them to hatch +by the heat of the sun. They lay in this manner two or three +times every year, and go immediately off to sea, leaving their +young when hatched to shift for themselves; which, as soon as +they get out of the eggs and from the sand, retire to the sea. +The eggs are round and white, as large as those of a duck, being +covered with a thin tough skin, but no shell. I have seen of the +green turtle 200, 350, and even 400 pounds weight. The lean of +this animal looks like beef, but the fat is as green as grass, +yet is very wholesome food. The <i>pearl-oyster</i> is much about +the size of our common oyster, but thick and broad, and hangs to +the rocks by a long string or beard, like that of a muscle. The +pearl is found in its thickest part, and some have six or seven +pearls. The Spaniards often make voyages to this gulf of Nicoya +and to California in quest of pearls, employing Indian divers, +who go down in seven or eight fathoms, and bring up eight, ten, +or twelve oysters at a time, which are opened by other men on +board. The meat of this oyster is very green and fat, and eats +tolerably well, boiled or stewed. The <i>great-oyster</i> grows +to the rocks, not hanging from them by a beard. When opened, one +part of the meat is of a fine red colour like a cherry, and the +rest a fine white. I have often eat of this oyster, for want of +better victuals; and they are so large, that one of them cut in +pieces and stewed is a sufficient meal for five or six men. The +<i>muscles</i> here are so large that one will suffice for a meal +to two men, and they are tolerably good when, stewed with pepper +and vinegar.</p> + +<p>We sailed from the Gulf of Nicoya on the 23d September, and +were in lat. 13° 7' N. on the 7th October, when we got sight +of two high mountains, commonly called the Volcanoes of +Guatimala. That which is to the north of the city is the highest, +and affords a fine prospect from the sea; and in the year 1534 +threw out a torrent of water, which totally overwhelmed the old +city of St Jago de Guatimala, and occasioned the building of a +new city at the distance of thirty-five miles S.E. The other +mountain is really a volcano, which rages terribly in the rainy +season, from April to November, sometimes throwing out stones as +big as a house, and with such prodigious eruptions of flame, that +one may see to read a letter in a dark night at the distance of +six miles. This is to the south of Guatimala.</p> + +<p>The 9th October we took a bark of eighty tons in ballast, but +which had a small quantity of provisions, which were very +acceptable. This bark was commanded by a Spaniard named Christian +Martin, born in the Canaries, but brought up in London, who had +formerly been servant to Captain Eaton, and came with him to the +South Sea in quality of gunner; but, falling out with the men, he +ran away from them in the island of Gorgonia, where he lay +concealed for six days till the ship departed. He then cut down +two trees, which he drew to the water side, and bound together +with withes, fixed a mast, and made a sail of two shirts which he +had with him. Then filling a bag with oysters, he put off early +in the morning from Gorgonia, and got next day in the afternoon +into the river Bonaventura. He was here ill used by the +Spaniards, who sent him to Lima, where he was set at liberty. We +were now sixty-four men and boys, all in good health and spirits, +and on the 23d November, captured a small bark of sixty tons from +California laden with plank, but having also several parcels of +pearls, that had been fished on that coast. December 4th we came +into the Bay of Nativity, or <i>Puerto Nauidad</i>, in lat. +19° 22' N. where we took a new ship of about sixty tons, +laden with ammunition and military stores for the Acapulco ship, +for which we were now in search, and for the sight of which our +people longed as earnestly as if there had been no difference +between seeing and taking her; neither was it long before they +had their wish in one respect, but not in the other. We took from +our prize what ammunition was left; for, on perceiving our +design, the ship's company quitted her, having first thrown +overboard the best part of her cargo, and left the rest scattered +about in the utmost confusion.</p> + +<p>Being off the volcano of Colima on the morning of the 6th +December, we descried a sail to which we gave chace, and soon +came up with her, when she proved to be the great Acapulco ship +or Manilla galleon, which we had so long wished to fall in with. +As we were well provided, we gave her a great many broadsides +before she could get any of her guns cleared for action, as she +had not suspected us of being an enemy, and was not at all +prepared for us. Martin, who was still a prisoner on board our +ship, advised us to lay her aboard immediately, while the +Spaniards were all in confusion, as we might then easily succeed +by boarding; but if we gave them time to get out their great +guns, they would certainly tear us to pieces, and we should lose +the opportunity of acquiring a prize worth sixteen millions of +dollars. Thus it accordingly happened; for the time being wasted +in disputing, between those of us that were for boarding, and +those of a different opinion, she got out one tier of guns, and +then proved too hard for us, so that we could not lie along side +of her to do her any damage. Our five pound shot, which was the +biggest we had, signified little against such a ship; but when +any of her eighteen and twenty-four pound shot struck our ship, +which was much decayed, it drove in a piece of plank of three or +four feet. Being thus greatly damaged, and having received a shot +between wind and water in our powder room, by which two feet of +plank were driven in on each side of our stern, orders were given +to stand off from the enemy.</p> + +<p>Our design being thus disappointed, all our men became much +discontented, and were for going home, seeing we could do no good +in these parts, either for ourselves or owners; our ship also +being ready to fall in pieces of herself, and having provisions +only for three months at short allowance. Captain Dampier +requested that we would consent to prolong our cruize for six +weeks longer; after which he promised to permit us to sail for +India to some factory, where we might all dispose of ourselves as +we thought best for our advantage. To this we all agreed, and we +accordingly cruized along shore to the S.E. in sight of land, +passing the noted ports of Acapulco, <i>Puerto de los +Angelos</i>, Guatalco, and several others; when we proposed to +seek out a proper place in which to water our ships and bark, +previous to our intended voyage to the East Indies; and, after +some consideration, the Gulf of Amapalla or Fonseca was fixed +upon for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On the 5th January, 1705, we met with such vast quantities of +fish, that in half an hour we caught near three score +<i>albicores</i>, from sixty to ninety pounds weight each, +besides vast quantities of other fish. The <i>albicore</i> is +about four or five feet long, weight from 50 to 100 and even 150 +pounds. It has eleven fins on its back, one pretty large, a +second of middle size, and nine small yellow fins near the tail; +one large fin on each side near the gills; and one near the +middle of the belly. This is a very fleshy fish, having hardly +any bones besides the back bone, and is extraordinary good +eating. It has prodigious strength, while in the water, and preys +mostly on flying fish, as do dolphins and bonetoes. On the 6th of +this month, a new revolution took place in our affairs, as thirty +of our men agreed to remain along with Captain Dampier in the +South Sea; but with what view or on what terms, we others, who +were not in the secret, never knew. Our company, who were not of +Dampier's party, consisted of thirty-three men; and, +notwithstanding this new arrangement, we all sailed to the Gulf +of Amapalla, where we anchored on the 26th January.</p> + +<p>That same day, all the remaining provisions were equally +divided between the two companies by the agent for the owners, +and we had four pieces of cannon, with a proper proportion of +small arms and ammunition, assigned for us, for our defence +during the voyage to India. Our next care was to take in water, +for which purpose we landed on the island of <i>Conchagua</i>; +and after some search, we found a large bottom behind the hills, +in which was a large plantain walk, and a large reservoir of rain +water, which came from the mountains. This was very inconvenient, +as we were forced to carry all our water over a high hill, which +we could hardly climb by ourselves; but there was no alternative, +and we set to work to cut down the bushes in our way, to make a +clear path. After this, as the hill was very steep on the land +side towards the bottom whence we had to fetch water, we cut +steps in the hill with axes and shovels; and our sail-maker made +a hose or canvass pipe of ninety fathoms long, which carried the +water from the top of the hill down to our water cask at its foot +towards the sea. We then fell to work, each man having a six +gallon keg, in which the water was carried to the top of the +hill, where it was emptied into the hose. We were thus employed +four days, in which time we filled twenty-six tons, which we +carried on board. The 31st January, we all went to the plantain +walk, where we cut down as many plantains as we could carry, with +which we returned on board our ship, meaning to set sail next +day.</p> + +<p>This evening, two of the men who had agreed to remain with +Captain Dampier, left him and came over to us, so that our number +was now thirty-five, viz. thirty-four English, and a little negro +boy we had taken from the Spaniards. While we were employed in +watering our bark, the men on board the St George were busied in +refitting that ship as well as they could; the carpenter stopping +up the shot-holes in the powder-room with tallow and charcoal, +not daring, as he said, to drive a nail, for fear of making it +worse. The four great guns, which usually stood between decks, +were put down into the hold, there being sixteen besides, which +was more than they now had men to manage, as there only remained +twenty-eight men and boys with Captain Dampier, who were mostly +landsmen, a very insignificant force indeed with which to make +war on a whole nation.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Sequel of the Voyage of William Funnell, after his +Separation from Captain Dampier</i>.</p> + +<p>We left the Gulf of Amapalla on the 1st February, 1705, where +Captain Dampier remained at anchor in the St George, having a +fine gale of wind at N.E. While in any of the harbours on the +coast of Mexico, we were seldom allowed any thing except flour, +only that we used to go on shore, and found on the rocks plenty +of concks, oysters, muscles, and other shell-fish, on which we +made many a hearty meal. Being now bound, as we hoped, for a land +of plenty, we bore hunger and short commons with great patience, +of which we had much need, as our allowance was no more than half +a pound of coarse flour a day to each man, and two ounces of salt +meat every other day. Our vessel was a small bark of about +seventy tons with two masts, which we had taken from the +Spaniards, which was so eaten with worms while in the Gulf of +Amapalla, that she already began to grow very leaky. To add to +our distress, we had no carpenter, neither had we a doctor or any +medicines, if any of us happened to fall sick, and we had no boat +to aid us if our vessel should fail. The carpenter, doctor, and +boat being all left with Captain Dampier. Yet, trusting to God's +providence, who had already delivered us out of so many dangers, +we proceeded on our voyage to India; and a bolder attempt was +perhaps never made by such a handful of men in so frail a bark, +and nothing but our anxious desire to revisit our native country +could have supported us under all the difficulties and dangers of +this extensive voyage.</p> + +<p>The prospect of our difficulties gave us spirit and resolution +to provide against them; and in a council, which we held on this +occasion, we determined on the course we were to pursue, and the +allowance of provisions during the course. We knew the wind we +now had was merely a land breeze, and that by running 100 leagues +out to sea we should fall in with the regular trade-wind, which +blows always N.E. or E.N.E. our first purpose was, therefore, to +get into the latitude of 13° N. which is that of Guam, and +then to bear away before the wind in that parallel. This +resolution was formed on the 2d February, all which day and most +of the ensuing night we had fine calm weather, and caught +abundance of <i>yellow-tails</i>, which swam about the vessel. +This fish is about four feet long, having twenty fins on its +back; a middling one behind the head, a large one on the middle +of the back, and eighteen small ones between that and the tail. +It has a large fin on each side near the gills, and thirteen +under the belly, viz. a middling one under the gills, a large one +near the middle of the belly, which goes in with a dent, and +eleven small ones between that and the tail, which is yellow and +half-mooned. This fish has a very great head, with large eyes, +and is good eating, having no bones except the back-bone. It is +all white, except the tips of the fins and the tail, which, are +yellow. These fish were very acceptable to us, as we fed upon +them for three days, saving our other provisions. On the 3d +February, five or six turtles came near our bark, two of which we +caught, which also served to save our scanty store of provisions, +which otherwise had not sufficed to keep us from starving.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 3d February, having a brisk gale from +the land at N.E. we took our departure from <i>Mount St +Miguel</i> in the Gulf of Amapalla, steering S.W. and S.S.W. till +we were in the lat. of 10° N. when falling in with the +tradewind, we set our course W.N.W. we then made studding-sails +to our main and main-top sails, which we hoisted every morning at +day-break, and hauling down at sun-set, as it commonly blew so +fresh in the night that we had usually to furl our top-sail; but +the wind commonly abated at sun-rise. During our whole voyage we +steadily adhered to the rule of diet we had laid down, the +slenderness of which may be judged of by the following +particulars.</p> + +<p>From the 3d of February to the end of that month, we fed +entirely on plantains, making two meals a day, and allowing two +plantains to each man for a meal. We had then recourse to our +flour, of which half a pound was allowed daily to each man, and +two ounces every other day of salt beef or pork; but the meat had +been so long in salt, that it shrunk one half when boiled, +wherefore we concluded it was better to eat it raw, which we did +as long as it lasted. By the beginning of April that began to +fail, so that we were reduced to flour alone, which was sore +spoiled, being full of maggots, spiders, and other vermin, so +that nothing but the extremity of want could have induced us to +eat it. It was surprising to behold this strange alteration in +the flour, which only a few days before was white and fine, and +was now in a manner all alive, the maggots tumbling over each +other in prodigious numbers. On strict enquiry, these maggots +seemed to proceed from the eggs of spiders deposited among the +flour, out of which the maggots were bred, and then fed +voraciously on the flour. Words can only faintly describe the +miseries of our situation, which was somewhat alleviated by work, +and our spirits were buoyed up by the hopes of accomplishing our +long and difficult voyage. Some occasional assistance we derived +by now and then catching a dolphin. At other times we saw many +sea fowl, such as boobies, noddies, and others, which would come +and perch on some part of our rigging, and happy was he that +could catch one. In this manner we spent ten weeks, at the end of +which we were in a very melancholy condition, and nothing but the +hope of seeing land could possibly keep us from despair.</p> + +<p>The 10th of April, we observed the clouds to gather more than +usual in the horizon, which is a sure indication of land, as it +is common between the tropics to be foggy over the land, though +perfectly clear at sea; wherefore we kept an anxious look-out all +this night, and early in the morning of the 11th, we saw the +island of <i>Magon</i> W. ten leagues distant. This is a high +woody island, very plain, and green on the top. When within a +mile of this island, we lay to, and several fishing boats came to +us, bringing us fish, yams, eggs, potatoes, and other provisions, +to our great joy. The men in these boats were very tall and +large-limbed, of tawny complexions, with long black hair reaching +to their middles, and were all utterly stark naked, not even +covering their parts of shame. In exchange for what we had of +these people we offered them money, which they looked at and +returned, making signs to give them tobacco, which we did, and +they seemed much pleased. We also gave them some old shirts, +which they tore in pieces and wrapped round their heads. We would +have given each a dram of brandy, but they were afraid of it; +only one man accepted a glass, which he drank off, but we thought +he would never have closed his mouth again, he seemed so +astonished at the heat it left in his mouth and stomach, that I +believe he thought himself on fire. He lay down and roared like a +bull near half an hour, when he fell asleep; and we being in +haste, put him into his boat, making signs to his companions to +take care of him.</p> + +<p>These islanders seemed a very civil people, yet we did not +venture to allow too many of them to come on board at once. When +they first came near us, they tied two sticks together in form of +a cross, which they held up, as we supposed, to signify to us +that they had some knowledge of Christianity; whereupon we shewed +them a crucifix, we had taken from the Spaniards, at the sight of +which they all bowed their bodies, and came on board. This island +of Magon, as I reckoned, is in lat. 15° N. and we made its +longitude by computation, 120° 9' W. from <i>St Miguel</i>, +or 7029 English miles, allowing 58-1/2 miles to the degree of +longitude in this parallel.[210]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 210: From the sequel, this island of Magon +appears almost certainly to have been one of the Ladrones, +perhaps to the N.E. of Guam, now named Rota. Point Candadillo, +near San Miguel, the N.W. cape of the Gulf of Amapalla, is in +long. 87° 58' W. and the Ladrones are in long. 216° W. +from Greenwich, so that the difference, or run across the +Pacific, is 128° 2', which, at 58-1/2 miles, extend to 7590 +miles, besides the allowance for difference of +latitude.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On mature deliberation, we resolved to proceed directly from +this place to New Guinea, without putting in at the island of +Guam, which was in sight. The weather continued fair, and the +wind brisk and favourable, till we came into the latitude of +4° N. when we had a calm for seven days, during which time we +had no means of relieving our hunger, except by taking large +draughts of water, and then lying down to sleep. On the 3d May we +had a fine gale, which continued till the 5th, and then died +quite away before we got sight of land; but about ten that night +we were all sensible of a very odoriferous smell, whence we +concluded that we were near land, on which we examined our +charts, but found none laid down. Next morning, however, we saw +land at no great distance. This day also we caught two bonetoes, +which were most welcome, as they made a hearty meal to our whole +company. This fish is commonly about three feet long and two in +circumference, having a very sharp head, with a small mouth, full +eyes, and a semilunar tail. It is very fleshy, and makes good +broth. About noon we were in sight of three small islands, all +low land, but very green and pleasant, especially to us, who had +been so long of seeing any land. We had this day an observation +of the sun, by which we found our latitude to be 50' N. and as +the eastermost of these islands was four leagues S.E. of the +ship, it must of consequence be in lat. 0° 42' N.[211]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 211: The only islands in modern maps which +agree with the slight notice in the text, are Frevilla, or St +David's Isle,, nearly in lat. 1° N. and long. 135° E. +from Greenwich: Yet it is singular that Funnell should have +passed through the numerous group of the Carolines without seeing +any of them.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As we were fearful of entering upon an unknown coast in the +dark, we stood off all night, which was well for us, as we found +ourselves at day-break next morning, 7th May, within a ship's +length of a great reef of rocks, which extended from one island +to the other, and thinking to have gone between the islands, we +had nearly run upon this dangerous ledge. Having a small breeze +from shore we were fortunately able to stand off, and went to the +westermost island, because we saw many shoals off the others. The +rocks we were so near running upon were off the northmost isle, +which we named the Island of <i>Deceit</i>. On getting near the +westermost island which was the biggest of the three, forty or +fifty of their flying proas came off, in which there might be 450 +men, allowing ten to each proa, and we could also see multitudes +of people on the shore looking at us as we passed. The flying +proas kept at a distance from us, till we beckoned and made signs +for them to come near, and at length one came within a ship's +length, in which were ten men entirely naked, in the midst of +whom was a grave old man of a pleasant countenance, entirely +naked like the rest, except that he had a four-cornered cap on +his head without a crown. By the respect shewn him by all the +rest in the boat, we judged this man to be a king or prince. On +their approach, they sung a song which continued near a quarter +of an hour, and had a very pretty tune. When this was done, they +came almost close to our vessel, and then sung another song, +which was begun by the old man, and followed by all the rest in +the boat. At the end of which, they put themselves in a posture +of prayer, making many bows and cringes towards us; and then one +of the men in the boat, who had a very sore leg, held it up to +us, as if desiring us to cure it, whence we supposed they had +never seen white men before, and deemed us more than mortals.</p> + +<p>After some time, we made signs to let them know we wanted +victuals and drink, when they shook their heads as if by way of +denial. Seeing us proceeding towards the island, one of the men +in the boat blew a horn, on which all the other boats made boldly +towards us; and thinking they meant to board us, we fired a +junket over their heads to intimidate them, at the noise of which +they seemed much surprised and drew back, menacing us at a +distance with their paddles, and still following. Seeing such +multitudes on the shore, and finding we could have nothing from +them but by force, and besides not having anchors and cables on +which we could depend, or any boat in which to land, we concluded +that we could do no good here; and on examining our water, which +was found sufficient for eighteen days, at a quart each man +daily, we resolved to quit these islands, and trust to Providence +for guiding us to some more friendly place, where we might supply +our wants. So we left these islands, naming the westermost the +Island of <i>Disappointment</i>, because we made certain of +procuring water here, but could not.</p> + +<p>These three islands were all low, flat, and almost even with +the water, yet full of trees of various sorts, all very green and +flourishing; and doubtless, if we had possessed a boat, we must +have found something beneficial to ourselves, perhaps useful to +our country, as we might also at several other islands which we +afterwards passed. The inhabitants of most of these islands were +a very large and strong-boned race of men, having long black lank +hair reaching to their middles, and were all entirely naked, not +so much as covering their parts of shame; and I certainly never +saw such, a parcel of stout-limbed men together in all my life. +These islands, therefore, are abundantly peopled, though they +were utterly averse from any communication with us, perhaps from +a notion that all whites are Spaniards; and yet it is not quite +clear that even the Spaniards have ever attempted to form a +settlement at any of these islands.</p> + +<p>We left these islands with a fresh breeze at E. steering S.W. +and continually met with weeds and grass on our way, which made +us believe we were not far from land, yet we had no ground with +100 fathoms. Early in the morning of the 9th May, we descried the +coast of New Guinea, more than eighteen or nineteen leagues +distant. We now saw the necessity of constructing a boat, with a +few old boards and such other materials as we had, though not +quite suitable for the purpose; and though neither strong nor +handsome, it proved exceeding useful in the sequel. On the 9th we +had very bad weather, the wind shifting to every point of the +compass. This part of New Guinea appeared very mountainous, +black, and rocky, without harbour, bay, or road, in which we +might anchor in safety. The mountains seemed so bleak and barren, +and the vallies so deep and narrow, that at first we conceived +the country to be uninhabited; neither did we afterwards see any +inhabitants or signs of any. That same day we passed two small +islands, each about a league in length, which were very low, and +well clothed with small green trees. At the same time we saw part +of the great island of Gilolo, at the distance of eight leagues, +and held our course W.S.W.[212] intending to pass through between +that island and New Guinea, into the East Indian Sea.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 212: The only way of explaining this part +of the text, is by supposing Funnel may have mistaken the island +of Waygoo for a part of New Guinea, and even the N.W. point of +that island is at least sixty leagues from the S.W. leg or +peninsula of Gilolo, to which the direction of his course +certainly points.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We had very bad weather till the 11th of May, and the night +being very dark, we missed the common passage, and found +ourselves among many small islands; and as the wind was at E. we +resolved to look out for some passage among these islands to the +south. After infinite difficulty and much danger, we at length +made our way through a strait, which we named <i>St John's +Straits</i>, after the name of our bark. At this time we were +boarded by a large Indian proa, on board of which was a freeman +of Amboina, whom we acquainted with our great want of victuals, +having had nothing for a great while to support us except a +scanty allowance of spoilt flour and water, and so very little of +that as hardly sufficed to keep us alive. He told us, if we would +go to the island of <i>Manissa</i>, which was then in sight, he +would be our pilot, where he had no doubt we might have enough of +rice for our money to carry us to Batavia. We accordingly +proceeded for Manissa, passing by the island of <i>Keylan</i>, +which is small and high, but well inhabited, and clothed with +many kinds of trees. Its chief produce is rice, and a few cloves; +and on this island there is a Dutch corporal with six soldiers, +whose only business is to see all the clove trees cut down and +destroyed. From thence we proceeded to Manissa, where we arrived +about midnight, and came to anchor in a small bay at the N.W. end +of the island, when our Dutch pilot sent two men ashore with a +letter to the governor, acquainting him of our urgent wants.</p> + +<p>Early of the 23d May, a Dutch corporal and two soldiers came +on board, and read to us a general order from the Dutch +East-India Company, that if any ships, except their own, came +there to anchor, they were not to be supplied with any thing +whatever. We told him that extreme want of provisions had +constrained us to put in here, and that we should not have +touched any where before reaching Batavia, if we could possibly +have subsisted; wherefore we requested he would inform the +governor of our urgent wants. This he engaged to do, seeing us in +a very weak condition, and came back about four in the afternoon, +saying that we could have no provisions here, but might be +supplied at Amboina. We were forced therefore to leave this +unfriendly place, and to attempt going to Amboina, if the wind +would serve. <i>Manissa</i> is about fifteen miles from S.E. to +N.W. and about eight in breadth, in lat. 3° 25' S. and about +twenty miles west from the island of <i>Bonou</i>. It is a +remarkably high island, and pretty well inhabited by Malays, as +are all the Molucca Islands. It is surrounded by shoals almost on +every side, and some of these stretch a league and a half from +the shore, so that it is very dangerous to come near, unless with +very good charts, or with an experienced pilot. It has several +good springs of fresh water, and the Dutch have a small fort with +six guns on its S.W. side. It is governed by a Dutch serjeant, +having under him three corporals, a master gunner, and twenty +European soldiers; and produces vast plenty of rice and cloves, +both of which are sent to Amboina. The inhabitants are mostly +fishers, and catch such abundance of fish as not only supplies +themselves, but enables them also to carry a great deal to +Amboina.</p> + +<p>We stood to the S.W. having the wind at S.S.E. and blowing +fresh, so that we sailed under our courses, and were now much out +of heart, not expecting to reach Amboina, the S E. monsoon being +now set in; which was right against us. Almost in despair, we +continued our course till we were over against the island of +<i>Bouro</i>, and then the wind veering to the S.S.W. we stood +away S.E. but finding a strong current setting to leeward, we +rather lost ground, and seeing no likelihood of getting to +Amboina, we, by general consent, shared among us all that was +eatable on board, each man's share being six pounds and three +quarters of flour, and five pounds of bran, every one resolving +to use his share as sparingly as possible. On the 25th, the wind +veered to S.S.E. when we tacked to S.W. and soon weathered the +island of <i>Amblow</i>. This is a small island of moderate +height, in lat. 4° 5' S. tolerably furnished with trees, but +not inhabited. On the 26th, we had a fine fresh gale at S.E. when +we tacked and stood away N.E. for the island of Amboina. +Continuing the same course all the 27th, we got sight of Amboina +early in the morning of the 28th, bearing due N. about six +leagues distant. We now stood directly for the island, and about +noon came just off the harbour, a joyful sight to us then, though +we soon had cause to think it the worst thing that had befallen +us.</p> + +<p>As we entered the harbour of Amboina, we met two Dutch ships +coming out, laden with cloves and bound for Batavia. The captain +of one of these came on board our bark, desiring to know whence +we came and whither we were bound, and required to have a journal +of our voyage, promising to return it when he again met us at +Batavia. We gave him the best answers we could to all his +questions, and the agent of our owners gave him a succinct +relation of our voyage, which was of happy consequence to us, as +to that we afterwards owed our preservation as will appear in the +sequel. We stood into the harbour that night, and next morning, +which, according to our account, was Tuesday, but with the Dutch +Wednesday, two Dutch <i>orambies</i>, as they call the vessels +used at that place, came on board us, each of which was paddled +by forty men. In these vessels came the fiscal and several Dutch +gentlemen, with eighty soldiers, who immediately took possession +of our bark. They also went below and sealed up all our chests, +after which the two orambies towed us farther into the harbour, +so that by noon we were up as high as the town of Amboina, where +they moored our bark in the ordinary anchorage.</p> + +<p>We continued on board till the 31st, two days, not knowing how +they meant to dispose of us; in which time they would not supply +us with any victuals, though we offered a crown a pound for beef, +pork, or bread. In the evening of this day they took us all on +shore, lodging us in two rooms near the Stadt-house, our bark, +with all our money and goods, being taken from us, except what we +happened to have about our persons, and soon after our vessel and +goods were sold by auction. We were fed with bad meat, which our +stomachs could ill digest, being very weak with having been so +long on short allowance, and if we desired to have better we had +to buy it with our own money. Several of us had fortunately some +money about us, and as long as that lasted we purchased +provisions from our keeper. For a Spanish dollar, which was worth +five shillings and a penny, he would only give us five Dutch +<i>skellings</i>, or the value of about two and six-pence; and +even for this he gave us no more victuals than we could have +bought for five-pence, if we had been at liberty to go into the +town; so that, instead of five shillings for the Spanish dollar, +we in reality had only five-pence. During my leisure, I had many +opportunities of enquiring into the condition of Amboina, by +which I was enabled to draw up a pretty large account of the +island and its inhabitants, which I flatter myself will be +acceptable to the public, as the Dutch are careful to prevent any +accounts of this place from being published.</p> + +<p>This <i>island of Amboina</i>, so famous, or rather infamous, +for the cruelties and injustice formerly committed there by the +Dutch upon the English, is twelve leagues long from N. to S. +being high and mountainous, with intermediate vallies, which are +very fertile, but the hills are in a great measure barren. The +soil of the vallies is black, and affords salt-petre. The middle +of the island is in lat. 3° 40' S. The original inhabitants +of the island are Malays, who are of middle stature and tawny +complexions. The women are brighter than the men, and have long +black hair, reaching to the calves of their legs. They have round +faces, with small mouths, noses, and eyes. Their dress is a linen +or cotton waistcoat, reaching only below their breasts, and a +cloth round their waists, four yards long and a yard broad, which +serves as a petticoat, as the Dutch women only are permitted to +wear petticoats; neither are any of the men allowed to wear hats, +except the king or rajah. The natives are numerous, yet the Dutch +possess the whole sea-coast, and have here a strong castle, built +of stone, mounted by sixty pieces of cannon, besides several +small forts in other parts of the island. Near the castle is a +small town of about 100 houses, of stone, brick, or timber, +inhabited by the Dutch. None of the houses exceed one storey, as +the place is subject to earthquakes, which would endanger the +houses if higher, and even low as they are they often fall. While +we were there we had a great earthquake for two days, which did +much mischief as the ground opened in several places, and +swallowed up several houses with their inhabitants. Several of +their people were dug out of the ruins, but most of them dead, +and many others had their legs and arms broken by the fall of the +houses. Where we were, the ground swelled up like a wave of the +sea, but no damage was done.</p> + +<p>This island is governed by a council of five, consisting of +the governor, the senior merchant, or <i>ober koop-man</i>, the +Malay king, the captain of the fort, and the fiscal, which last +is the judge. There are said to be on the island 350 Dutch +soldiers, with 120 or 130 Dutch freemen and petty officers, and +about as many Chinese, who reside here for the benefit of trade, +though not allowed to participate in the spice trade, which the +Dutch reserve entirely to themselves. I thus estimate that the +Dutch are able to muster in this island about 550 fighting men, +including themselves and the Chinese; for they can count very +little on the Malays, who would gladly join any other nation +against them. The Malay women are said to be very loose, and not +ashamed of having intercourse with men. They are soon ripe, being +often married at nine years of age, and are said to have children +by ten or eleven. All who reside near the coast must live under +the Dutch government, which is very dissolute and tyrannical, and +they are severely punished for even small faults, being often +reduced to slavery, and condemned to wear an iron on their legs +for life. Those dwelling near the coast under the controul of the +Dutch are a kind of Christians; but those in the interior, among +the hills, are Mahometans, and are always at war with the Dutch. +When these hill Malays take any prisoners, they never give +quarter; but, after detaining their prisoners a few days, without +meat or drink, they are produced in public, and have their +breasts ripped open, and their hearts taken out, all the Malays +present making great rejoicings. The heads of these slaughtered +prisoners are then embalmed with spice, and those who can shew +the greatest number of Dutch heads are held in highest honour. In +retaliation, when the Dutch take any of these hill Malays, they +load them with irons, and after keeping them some days in prison, +they cut off their ears and noses, and after being kept some time +longer in prison, they are publicly racked to death.</p> + +<p>When any of the Malays, living under the Dutch government, are +found guilty of thieving, their ears and noses are cut off, and a +great iron chain is fastened to their legs, in which condition +they are made slaves for life. While we were there, about 500 +poor wretches were in this condition, who were kept constantly +employed, in sawing timber, cutting stones for building, carrying +burdens, or other work. They are let out of prison at sunrise, +the men being kept in one prison and the women in another, and +are kept hard at work till noon, when they return to prison for +an hour, being allowed for dinner a pint of coarse boiled rice +for each. They return again to work at one o'clock, and return to +prison at six in the evening, when they have a similar allowance +for supper. Soon afterwards they are locked up in their lodgings, +where they lie on the bare boards, having only a piece of wood +for a pillow. Sometimes these poor wretches make shift to escape, +but are used with great severity if again caught. One of the +female slaves having escaped, and being retaken, cut her own +throat to avoid the severe punishment awaiting her, when she was +dragged out by the hair all round the town, and then hung on a +gibbet by the feet. Such as are in debt, and cannot satisfy their +creditors, are turned over by their creditors to the Dutch +company, who send them to work among their slaves, having the +same allowance of boiled rice with the rest, with two-pence a day +towards paying their debts; but they seldom get free till carried +out dead.</p> + +<p>Though the poor natives are thus harshly treated, the Dutch +wink at the faults of their countrymen, who are seldom punished +for any crime, unless it be for murder, as in any other case they +get off for a small sum of money, even for a great fault. The +women slaves belonging to the free Dutch burgesses have all +reasonable indulgence, but are obliged to find their own clothes +and provisions, and pay an acknowledgement of about a sixpence +daily, in default of which they are severely used. If they bring +the daily tribute, they may whore or steal, and have no questions +asked, provided no complaint is made against them. The chief +products of this island are cloves, ginger, pepper, rattans, +canes, and a few nutmegs.</p> + +<p>The clove-tree is rather slender, and is from twelve to thirty +or even forty feet high, having small branches, with tapering +leaves about five inches long and two broad, which smell strong +of cloves, when rubbed between the fingers. The cloves grow out +at the tips of the branches, ten, twelve, or fourteen in a +cluster, being white at first, then green, and lastly of a dark +copper colour, in which state they are ripe and fit for +gathering. At this period, they spread cloths or sheets on the +ground round the bottom of the tree to a good distance, and shake +the tree, when all the ripe cloves fall down. This is repeated +every six or seven days for four or five times, till all the +cloves have ripened and are shaken off. The usual time of +gathering is October and February, those got in October, which is +the end of their winter, being called <i>winter cloves</i>, and +are not accounted so strong and good as the others. These are +commonly preserved in small jars of about a quart each, of which +great quantities are sent to various parts of the world. Those +gathered in February are termed summer cloves, being better and +stronger than the others, as ripening in the best part of the +summer; whereas the former have not above a month of fair +weather, all the rest of their winter season, which is our +summer, being rainy and cloudy, so that the cloves want sun to +ripen them. It is a common opinion, but extremely erroneous, that +cloves, nutmegs, and mace grow all on one tree. One clove-tree +commonly produces sixty, seventy, or eighty pounds of cloves in +one season; and every sixth year they are sure to have a double +crop.</p> + +<p>There are a vast number of clove-trees on this island, which +are carefully looked after, and a register of them is kept in the +books of the company, being all numbered once every year, and +they are not allowed to increase beyond a certain limited number, +for fear of lessening the price, all beyond being cut down. All +these trees belong to the Company, or the free burgesses, every +burgess having only a fixed number; and if any one is found to +have more than his allowance, he is severely fined, and all his +trees forfeited to the company. Besides, the burgesses are bound +to deliver the whole produce of their trees to the company at +six-pence the pound. If any freeman or other is convicted of +having sold or conveyed cloves from the island, to the value of +ten pounds, his whole property is forfeited to the company, and +he becomes a slave for life. The inhabitants used formerly to +cheat the Dutch in the sale of their cloves, in the following +manner. They hung up their cloves in a large sheet by the four +corners, and set a large tub of water underneath, which the +cloves, being of a very hot and dry nature, drew up by degrees, +and thus made a large addition to their weight. But the Dutch are +now too cunning for them, as they always try the cloves, by +giving them a small filip on the head with the forefinger: if +thoroughly ripe, and no deceit has been used, the head breaks off +like a piece of thin brittle glass; but if watered, the clove is +tough, and will sooner bend than break.</p> + +<p>The <i>nutmeg-tree</i> is much like the peach, and there are a +few of these in this island, but they grow mostly on the island +of Banda, whence two or three ship-loads are exported yearly. The +fruit of this tree consists of four parts. The first and outer +rind is like that of a green walnut. The second, which we call +<i>mace</i>, is dry and thin. The third is a tough thin shell, +like that of a chesnut; and the fourth is the <i>nutmeg</i>, +being the kernel included in that shell.</p> + +<p>There are said to be some gold-mines in the island of Amboina; +and a Malay once shewed me some of the ore, which, he said, came +from these mines: but he said, at the same time, that he would be +severely punished if the Dutch knew of his having any, as they +wish, as much as possible, to keep this from the knowledge of all +other Europeans.</p> + +<p>Once every year the Dutch have to send a large force from +Amboina on the following business, about the 20th of October. On +this occasion the governor is attended by about seventy-five +<i>orambies</i>, or boats of the country, some rowed by 100 +paddles, some eighty, fifty, or forty paddles each, and in each +of which there are two Dutch soldiers. I reckon therefore in this +fleet 150 to 160 Dutch soldiers, and about 5250 Malays, allowing +seventy to each <i>oramby</i> on the average. These seventy-five +<i>orambies</i> are divided into three squadrons. The +van-division of twenty <i>orambies</i>, is always commanded by a +member of the council, who carries a yellow flag. The +rear-squadron consists also of twenty <i>orambies</i>, and is +commanded by the fiscal, having a red flag. The rest form the +centre-squadron, and attend the governor, who has a serjeant and +corporal, with twelve Dutch soldiers, for his body guard, and +carries a blue flag. The governor is also attended by the Malay +king and all their princes or chiefs, lest they should rebel in +his absence. In this order the fleet proceeds to visit and +victual the eastern, or Banda islands, especially those that +produce cloves or nutmegs; and at every island it goes to, it is +joined by additional boats. This cruize generally lasts for six +weeks, during which they cut down and destroy all the clove and +nutmeg-trees they can find, except those which are reserved for +the use of the company. All or most of these islands would +produce cloves, but they will not suffer them, having enough at +Amboina alone to supply all Europe. On all of these islands the +Dutch keep a few soldiers, three, six, nine, or twelve, according +to their size, whose only business is to see the trees cut down, +or at least to take care that they do not increase; as they are +very jealous lest the English or French should serve them as they +did the English at Amboina. During this annual expedition, the +governor levies tribute from all the petty kings and chiefs of +these islands, and commonly returns to Amboina at the end of six +weeks.</p> + +<p>The island of Amboina produces beavers, hogs, and deer, +besides other animals. Among its birds are crocadores, +cassawaries, birds of paradise, and others. The <i>crocadore</i>, +or <i>cockatoo</i>, is of various sizes, some as large as a hen, +and others no bigger than a pigeon, being all over white, except +a crest of feathers on the top of their head, which is always +either yellow or red. This bunch of feather usually lies flat, in +a dent, or hollow, on the crown of the head, unless when the bird +is frightened, when it is erected, and opens like a fan. The +flesh and legs of this bird are very black, and they smell very +sweet. When they fly up and down the woods, they cry +<i>crocadore, crocadore</i>, or <i>cockatoo, cockatoo</i>, whence +their name. The <i>cassowary</i> is as large as a Virginia +turkey, having a head nearly the same with the turkey, with a +long stiff bunch of hair on his breast, also like the turkey. His +legs are almost as thick as a man's wrist, having five great +claws on each foot. The back is high and round, both it and the +pinions being covered with long hair instead of feathers. The +female of this bird lays an egg so large that its shell will hold +an English pint of fluid, having a thick shell, spotted with +green and white, and exactly like China-ware. I never tasted the +eggs of this bird, but its flesh is good eating, resembling that +of a turkey, but stronger.</p> + +<p>The <i>birds of paradise</i> are about the size of pigeons, +and are never seen here alive, neither is it known whence they +come. I have seen several of them at Amboina preserved in spice, +in which state they are sent as rarities to several parts of the +world. These birds are said to resort, in February and March, +when the nutmegs are ripe, to Banda and Amboina, where they feed +on the outer rind of the nutmeg, after which they fall to the +ground, quite stupified, or as it were dead drunk, when +innumerable ants gather about them, and eat them up. There are +here many kinds of fish, but the most remarkable is the +<i>sea-porcupine</i>, which is about three feet long, and two and +a half feet round, having large eyes, two fins on the back, and a +large fin on each side, near the gills. Its body is all beset +with sharp spines, or quills, like a porcupine, whence its name +is derived.</p> + +<p>All round Amboina the bottom is sand, but the water is so deep +that there is no anchorage near its shores, except to leeward, or +on the west side, where a ship may anchor in forty fathoms, close +to the shore in the harbour. This harbour runs so deep into the +island as almost to divide it into two, which are joined by so +narrow a neck of land that the Malays often haul their canoes +across. On the east side of the entry into the harbour there is a +small fort of six guns, close to which the depth is twenty +fathoms. About a league farther up is the usual anchorage for +ships, close under the guns of the great castle, which has been +called <i>Victoria</i> ever since the massacre of the English at +this place. About two miles farther to the N.E. and within the +harbour, is the place where the English factory formerly stood; +and near it is the hole into which the English were said to have +been thrown after the massacre. Few of us who were now here but +expected the same fate; and some of the inhabitants did not +scruple to say that our only protection was our journal, which +had been sent to Batavia by the Dutch ship we met when going into +the harbour; as by this it would soon be known all over India +that a part of Captain Dampier's crew had arrived at Aniboina, +which would cause us to be enquired after.</p> + +<p>A little to the eastward of Amboina there are several other +small islands, the most noted of which are <i>Boangbessay</i> and +<i>Hinomsa</i>, only a small distance east from Amboina. These +two islands are moderately high, and not above a third part so +large as Amboina. They are both well fortified, and produce store +of cloves. The chief place for nutmegs is the island of +<i>Banda</i>, which also belongs to the Dutch, being in lat. +4° 20' S. 28 leagues S.S.E. from Amboina. This island is said +to have the form of a man's leg and foot, and is well fortified. +The governor of Amboina is supreme over all the spice islands, +even to <i>Ternate</i> and <i>Tidore</i>, which are also spice +islands belonging to the Dutch, and are about forty miles to the +north of the equator. We were so troubled at Amboina by +musquitoes, a sort of gnats, that we had every night to put +ourselves into a bag before we could go to sleep, as otherwise +these insects bit us so intolerably that we could get no rest. +Wherever they bit, there commonly rose a red blister, almost as +broad as a silver penny, which itched so violently that many +cannot forbear from scratching, so as to cause inflammations that +sometimes aid in the loss of a limb. During our stay, we were +allowed to walk in a paved yard about sixty yards square; but +were not permitted to go into the town, that we might not learn +their strength, or make any discoveries prejudicial to them.</p> + +<p>We remained at Amboina from the 31st of May to the 14th of +September, 1705, when three of their sloops were ready to sail +with cloves to Batavia, in which twenty-five of our men were sent +away to Batavia, ten of us being left behind, who they said were +to be sent in another vessel, almost ready to sail. On the 27th +September, a Malay man was brought to the Stadt-house to be tried +for his life, being accused by his own wife of having murdered +his slave. The slave had been dead six months, when the wife +falling out with her husband, she went to the fiscal in the heat +of her rage and revealed the murder, on which the husband was +thrown into prison, but it was generally believed that he was +wrongfully accused by his wife. During his trial the earthquake +took place, formerly mentioned, which made the court break up, +fearful the house might fall on their heads. At this time I +observed that it is an error to suppose that it is always calm +during an earthquake; for we had a fine fresh gale at S.S.W. both +days on which the earthquake happened. Next day the court sat +about eleven o'clock, continuing the trial; and while the wife +was in her greatest violence in the accusation of her husband, +the earth shook again with much violence, which obliged the court +again to break up.</p> + +<p>That same day, the 28th September, I and four more of our men +were sent off for Batavia in a Chinese sloop, the other five men +being promised to be sent after us in a short time, but we never +heard of them afterwards. We sailed westwards till we came to the +island of Lancas, in lat. 5° 27' S. and by my estimation, +2° 21', or 155 miles W. from Amboina. We then steered W. by +N. till we made two islands called the <i>Cabeses</i>, whence we +procured some hundred cocoa nuts. The eastermost island, to which +we sent our boat, is low and uninhabited, but has been planted +full of cocoa-nut trees by the Dutch, for the use of their +vessels going between the spice islands and Batavia, as it is a +kind of miracle to see any other ship in these parts except those +belonging to the Dutch. Off this island we met our own bark which +had brought us from America to Amboina, the Dutch having fitted +her up with a main-mast and converted her into a very good +vessel. This island is in lat. 5° 23' S. and nearly W. by N. +from the island of Lancas, about forty-five miles distant, and +has a shoal extending about two miles from the shore. To the S.W. +of this is the other island of <i>Cabeses</i>, a pretty high +island, on which the Dutch always keep a corporal and two +soldiers, who go two or three times all over the isle to see that +no cloves are planted, and if they find any to cut them down and +burn them, lest any other nation might be able to procure that +commodity, in which case Amboina would become of little value, as +cloves are its only valuable product.</p> + +<p>We next passed by the S. end of the island of <i>Bouton</i>, +or <i>Booton</i>, which is pretty large, and in the lat. of +5° 45' S. We steered W. from thence, between the islands +<i>Celebes</i> and <i>Zalayer</i> or <i>Salayr</i>. The S.W. leg +or peninsula of Celebes is very high land. Celebes is composed of +very high land, very well inhabited, being a very large island, +extending through seven degrees of latitude. On the west side of +its southern end the Dutch have a factory named Macasser, where +they have a fortress of about seventy guns, and a garrison of 600 +or 700 Dutch soldiers. The chief product is rice, with which they +supply most of their eastern islands from hence. There are said +to be gold-mines in this island, of which the Dutch are not yet +masters, as the inhabitants are often at war with them, and have +hitherto been able to keep them from those parts of the island. +Between the south end of Celebes and the island of Salayr there +are three small low islands, and the best channel is through +between the island next to Salayr, and another small isle to the +northward. This is called the <i>second</i> passage, the first, +third, and fourth of these passages being very dangerous, so that +ships generally avoid them if possible. I would willingly give an +account of every island I have occasion to mention, but as that +is not in my power, I must rest satisfied with what I am able to +say consistent with truth.</p> + +<p>The island of <i>Zalayer</i>, or <i>Salayr</i>, is of moderate +height, inhabited by Malays, and planted all round with +cocoa-trees, the natives being obliged to send a considerable +quantity of nuts and oil to the Dutch at Macasser as tribute. We +steered from hence W. by N. till we had passed a dangerous shoal +called the Porill, after which we stood to the S.W. and saw in +the night a small island just in our way, which we were unable to +weather, and therefore stood off till daylight, when we were to +the S. of that isle, when we tacked and stood again S.W. and soon +after saw two other small isles bearing from N. to N.W. For about +two miles of our course at this time, the sea was so transparent +that we could plainly discern the bottom, which was never less +than five or more than six fathoms, yet appeared only two to the +eye. We passed over this shoal about a league to the S. of these +two small islands, this being the narrowest part of the shoal, +for it is five or six leagues in breadth farther to the south; +yet is it every where without danger, as it has very uniform +soundings, seldom over or under five or six fathoms. To the north +of these islands, however, it is very dangerous, being all over +foul rocky ground, and having in some places not more than four +or five feet water; it is proper, therefore, always to keep to +the south of these islands, where the passage is perfectly safe. +Yet in the Dutch charts, these dangers are laid down to the +southward, which should have been to the northwards, and they lay +down the safe shoals to the northward, whereas we now went to the +southwards, as they always do. The captain of our vessel had a +chart on board, which shewed these things exactly as I have now +described, but which I compared with several others, also on +board, which I found quite different. I asked our captain the +reason of this, when he told me that all these shoals and +dangerous places were well known to the Hollanders, but they did +not wish they should be known by others, but rather that +strangers might lose their ships among these rocks and shoals, as +we certainly had done, if we had sailed according to these common +charts.</p> + +<p>We entered the harbour of Batavia on the 21st October, and +sent immediately on landing to join the rest of our men, who were +still detained in custody. We were soon afterwards visited by the +first major, who desired us to transmit to the general, through +him, an account of the losses we had sustained by our being taken +prisoners at Amboina, and we should receive compensation for our +effects, loss of time, and imprisonment. We each accordingly drew +up accounts of our losses, which we sent by the major to the +governor, who sent us back word that we should speedily have our +freedom. On the 27th we were sent for to the fort, where most of +our money was returned; but we could have no satisfaction for our +goods, imprisonment, and loss of time, the governor-general +saying that he had given us all that had been sent to him as ours +by the governor of Amboina, and that we were now at liberty to go +where we pleased. As our vessel had been taken from us for the +use of the Dutch Company, we desired he would be pleased to find +us some ship for our return home, which he promised; with which +arrangement we were forced to be satisfied, and took lodgings in +the city of Batavia, till an opportunity might offer for our +return to Europe. In the course of seven weeks residence here, I +made all the observations I could upon this place and its +inhabitants. I found the city in as good a condition as could be +wished, and the people seemed to be as prudent and as industrious +as any I had ever seen: But, as the descriptions already +published of this place are so exact as to render my observations +superfluous, I shall content myself with a very short +description, referring the curious reader to the large accounts +that have been published by Dutch, French, and English writers, +but especially the first.</p> + +<p>BATAVIA is the chief place belonging to the Hollanders in +India, and receives all the productions of India, Japan, and +China. The Malays are the original natives; but besides these and +the Dutch, who are the masters, it is inhabited by Portuguese, +Chinese, Persians, and negroes. The town is large and handsome, +having seven churches, belonging to the Dutch, Portuguese, +Malays, and Chinese.[213] The town has many spacious houses built +in the European manner, and is walled and moated all round, the +ramparts being well provided with cannon. In the middle of the +city there is a spacious square, in which is the stadt-house, +where all public matters are transacted. This city is usually +governed by a member of the States-General of the United +Netherlands, with the title of Governor-General of India, all +other governors of the possessions belonging to the Dutch Company +being subordinate to his authority. The inhabitants are well +pleased in the governor-general being often changed, as all +prisoners are released at the installation of a new one, except +those charged with murder. He has twelve counsellors to assist +him, who are called the <i>rads</i>, or lords of India, and are +mostly such as have formerly been governors in other places, as +in Ceylon, Amboina, Malacca, &c.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 213: This seems to indicate that, of the +seven <i>churches</i>, some belong to the Dutch Calvinists and +Portuguese Roman Catholics, while others are Mahometan places of +worship for the Malays, and idol temples, or <i>pagodas</i>, +frequented by the Chinese.--E]</blockquote> + +<p>The city is divided by many canals, over which there are +bridges almost at the end of every street, together with booms to +lay across, that no boats may go in or out after sunset. The +chief product of the adjoining country is pepper, of which the +Dutch export great quantities every year; and there are also some +few diamonds and other precious stones. The chief fruits here are +plantains, bananas, oranges, lemons, mangostans, and rumbostans. +The <i>mangostan</i> is about the size of a golden rennet, quite +round, and resembling a small pomegranate, the outer rind being +like that of the pomegranate, but of a darker colour, but the +inside of the rind of a fine red. The fruit lies within the rind, +commonly in four or five cloves, of a fine white, very soft and +juicy, within each clove having a small black stone or pip. The +pulp is very delicious, but the stone is very bitter, and is +therefore thrown away, after sucking the fruit The +<i>rumbostan</i> is about the size of a walnut after the green +outside peel is off, and is nearly of the shape of a walnut, +having a thick tough outer rind of a deep red colour, full of red +knobs, within which is a white jelly-like pulp, and within that +is a large stone. The pulp is very delicate, and never does any +harm, however much of it a man may eat, providing he swallow the +stones; but otherwise they are said to produce fevers.</p> + +<p>This island of Java, on the north side of which Batavia is +situated, extends about ten degrees from east to west, or nearly +700 English miles. The weather is here extremely regular, and the +inhabitants know how to use it to the best advantage. During the +eastern monsoon, the land-winds are at S.E. Sometimes more +southerly; and the sea-winds blow from the N.E. fine pleasant +gales. This easterly monsoon is accounted the good monsoon, being +fine clear and fair weather, and begins in April, ending in +October. The other, or westerly, is called the bad monsoon, +consisting of blustering rainy weather, accompanied with much +thunder and lightning, especially in December, January, and +February. This bad monsoon begins in November and ends in March +or the beginning of April; during which the land-winds are W.S.W. +or S.W. and the sea-winds at N.W. and W.N.W.</p> + +<p>The anchoring ground all along the north side of Java, from +Madura to Batavia, is a fine oozy bottom, free from rocks. The +principal places on this side of the island are Batavia, Bantam, +Japara, Samarang, Surabon, Taggal, Quale, and Rambang; all of +which are possessed by the Dutch. These settlements afford +abundance of rice, with which the Dutch supply all their +out-factories near Java, and also produce excellent plank for +ship-building. The principal place for ship-building is +<i>Rambang</i>, where the free burgesses of Batavia usually go to +build their small vessels, as sloops and brigs. Ships of five, +six, and seven hundred tons, often load with timber at Rambang, +Quale, Japara, and other places; and each ship, after being fully +laden, takes a great raft or float of the largest timber, which +she tows along with her to Batavia. Some of these rafts are said +to be thirty feet square, and draw twenty feet water. There are +commonly six ships employed in this timber trade, and they +usually make four voyages yearly in the good monsoon, for in the +bad they cannot do any thing. Ail this timber is for the most +part landed on the island of <i>Ormrust</i>, between four and +five leagues from Batavia, where there are about 200 +ship-carpenters, who are constantly in full employ, and here the +Dutch careen their ships. This island is well fortified, being, +to use a sea phrase, all round a bed of guns.</p> + +<p>We had notice on the 2d December, 1705, that all of us who +wished to return to England should immediately go on board the +homeward-bound Dutch East India fleet, which we did accordingly, +and sailed next day. This fleet consisted of twelve ships, as +well provided in all respects as any I had ever seen, and we made +the voyage in good order. We arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on +the 3d February, 1706. The Dutch have here a strong fortress, and +about half a mile from this is a fine town of 150 houses, with a +small church. The country in the neighbourhood is very high, and +the mountains are mostly barren, producing only a few shrubs; but +the country is full of lions, tigers, elephants, and other wild +beasts, which give great disturbance to the settlers, for which +reason the government gives a reward of fifty-two guilders for +killing a lion, equal to four pounds six and eight-pence, and +twenty-four guilders, or forty shillings, for killing a tiger. +While we were there, a certain Scotsman killed four lions, three +tigers, and three wild elephants, for all of which he got the +rewards. The Dutch make here a great quantity of an excellent +wine, called Cape wine, which is sold by retail at eight-pence a +quart.</p> + +<p>We sailed from the Cape the 24th of March, excellently +provided with every thing requisite for the voyage. We were now +twenty-four sail, having nine English and fifteen Dutch ships. On +the 17th April we made the island of Ascension, but did not touch +there even for turtle, although their season of laying, having +been so well provided with fresh provisions at the Cape that we +had no occasion for more. On the 19th there happened a great +earthquake, when the ship seemed for some time as if she run +along the ground, on which we heaved the lead on both sides, but +had no ground at 200 fathoms. The whole fleet felt the shock at +the same time; so that for about ten minutes every ship was +making signals and firing guns. On the 14th June we saw four sail +of French privateers, which were waiting for us; but after +looking at us for some time, and observing the regular order in +which we sailed, they did not think it adviseable to make any +attempt against us, and bore away. This shewed the great +advantage of the regular order observed by the Dutch in sailing, +in which on this occasion they were imitated by the English ships +in company.</p> + +<p>On the 30th June we were in lat. 62° 40' N. the highest +north I was ever in, and I could not help noticing the great +difference in point of cold here and in 60° S. There we had +continual showers of snow or hail, with bitter cold weather; +while here the weather was fair, and the cold moderate. In the +evening of the 3d July we saw the Faro Islands. On the 5th we met +with eight Dutch men of war, which were cruizing on purpose to +convoy us safe home, accompanied by four victuallers and three of +the Company's privateers. On the 15th July we all arrived safely +in the Texel, and got on the 17th to Amsterdam. After this, I and +the rest of our company went to see several parts of Holland, and +we arrived on the 26th August, 1706, in England, after many +dangers by sea and land, being only 18 of us out of 183. The news +of our misfortunes reached home before us, and every body was +solicitous to have an account of our adventures, especially while +under the power of the Dutch at Amboina. These importunities led +me to believe that a faithful relation of our voyage would be +acceptable to the public, and I hope some of the descriptions, +observations, and discoveries contained in this small performance +may be found useful, and not altogether destitute of +entertainment.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Brief Account of Stradling, Clipperton, and Dampier, after +their respective Separations, till their Returns to +England.</i></p> + +<p>The reader may remember that Captain Dampier, in the St +George, left <i>Captain Stradling</i> in the Cinque-ports on the +19th of May, 1704, at King's Island, in the Bay of Panama. The +force under Captain Stradling was too insignificant to maintain +him long in the South Sea, for which reason he went to the island +of Juan Fernandez in search of shelter and refreshments. They +were in so forlorn a condition at this time, that Alexander +Selkirk[214] chose rather to remain by himself in that island, +than to run the hazard of returning to the South Sea in the +Cinque-ports. In this he shewed great judgment, as the +Cinque-ports actually foundered on the coast of <i>Barbacora</i> +(Barbacoas), and only Captain Stradling, with six or seven of his +men, were saved, and sent prisoners to Lima. Captain Stradling +was alive there at the time when Woods Rogers came into the South +Sea, but what became of him afterwards is unknown.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 214: This person, on whose simple +adventures the romance of Robinson Crusoe was soon afterwards +founded, will be more particularly mentioned in a subsequent +chapter of this book.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The next person who left Captain Dampier was his mate, <i>Mr +Clipperton</i> of whom we shall have occasion to say much in a +succeeding voyage round the world. Clipperton was certainly a man +of parts and resolution, and probably would not have deserted +from Captain Dampier, if he had not thought that his commander +was resolved to remain in his old crazy ship in the South Sea +till she foundered. Finding many of the crew of the same opinion, +he thought proper to leave him at the middle islands, as already +related, where it was plain to every one that the St George was +no longer fit for going to sea. Mr Clipperton set sail on the 2d +September, 1704, having twenty-one men, in a small bark of ten +tons, with two masts and two square sails, two swivels, two or +three barrels of powder, and some shot. With this inconsiderable +force, he ventured into Rio Leon, on the coast of Mexico, where +he took two Spanish ships riding at anchor. One of these was very +old and worm-eaten, which he immediately sunk. The other was new, +and had goods on board to a considerable value, and for her +Captain Clipperton demanded a ransom of 10,000 dollars, by two of +his prisoners whom he set on shore. The prisoners spoke so +handsomely of Clipperton that the governor resolved to treat with +him, and sent him word that he did not think his offer +unreasonable, but the owners were entirely ruined, and the town +so poor that it was impossible to comply with his terms; but if +4000 dollars would content him, which was all they could raise, +that sum should be sent aboard, and the governor would rely on +the honour of Captain Clipperton for the release of the ship. +Clipperton accepted this proposal, but as his bark was in want of +provisions and water, he sent word to the governor, that every +kind of provisions and drink were not to be considered as within +the capitulation. This was readily agreed to, the money was sent +on board, and as soon as the provisions were got out of her, the +ship was honourably restored.</p> + +<p>Clipperton went thence to the Bay of Salinas, where his little +vessel was drawn on shore, and cleaned and effectually refitted, +after which he resolved in this cockle-shell to sail for the East +Indies, which he actually did, keeping in the latitude of 18° +N. and reached the Philippine Islands in fifty-four days. While +among these islands, a Spanish priest came off to his bark in a +canoe, and Clipperton detained him till furnished with a supply +of fresh provisions, and then set him at liberty. His next scheme +was to sail for the English settlement of Pulo Condore, in lat +8° 40' N. off the river of Cambadia, and actually came there: +But finding that the English had been massacred by their Indian +soldiers on the 3d March, 1705, for which reason no relief or +safety could be expected there, he bore away for Macao, a port +belonging to the Portuguese on the coast of China, where he and +his people separated, every one shifting for himself as well as +they could. Some went to Benjar,[215] in order to enter into the +service of the English East India Company, while others went to +Goa to serve the Portuguese, and some even entered into the +service of the Great Mogul, being so bare after so long a voyage, +that any means of providing for themselves were desirable. +Clipperton returned to England in 1706, and afterwards made +another voyage round the world in the Success, of which an +account will be found in its proper place.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 215: This is perhaps an error for Bombay; +yet it may have been Benjarmassin, on the southern coast of +Borneo.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It is not easy to conceive a worse situation than that in +which Captain Dampier was left at the close of the year 1704, +when Mr Funnell and his people separated from him, being only +able to retain twenty-eight of his men, and even these were +prevailed upon to stay, by representing that it was easy to +surprise some Spanish village, and that the fewer they were, each +would have the greater share in the plunder. After some +consultation, they resolved to attack Puna, a hamlet or village +of thirty houses and a small church, the inhabitants of which are +well to pass, and are under the command of a lieutenant. Dampier +landed here in a dark night, and, surprizing the inhabitants in +their beds, got possession of the place with very little +trouble.</p> + +<p>After plundering this town, they repaired to the island of +<i>Lobos de la Mar</i>, and took a small Spanish bark by the way, +well furnished with provisions. They now resolved to quit their +own ship, and to endeavour to sail for the East Indies in this +small bark; and accordingly left the St George at anchor under +the island of Lobos, after taking every thing valuable out of +her. They then sailed across the Pacific Ocean to the East +Indies, and arrived at the Dutch settlements, where their bark +was seized, and they were turned adrift to shift for themselves +as they best might. Dampier returned naked to his owners, with a +melancholy relation of his unfortunate expedition, occasioned +chiefly by his own strange temper, being so self-sufficient and +overbearing that few or none of his officers could bear with him; +and when once disputation gets in among those who have the +command, success is not to be expected. Even in this distress, he +was received as an eminent man, notwithstanding his faillings, +and was introduced to Queen Anne, having the honour to kiss her +hand, and to give her majesty some account of the dangers he had +undergone. The merchants were so sensible of his want of conduct, +that they resolved never to trust him any more with a command; +and this, with the poverty resulting from his late unlucky +voyage, obliged him to make the tour of the world once more as +pilot to the Duke, commanded by Captain Woods Rogers, the +relation of which voyage forms the subject of next Section.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-10" id="chapter4-10">CHAPTER X.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD BY CAPTAIN WOODS ROGERS, AND STEPHEN +COURTNEY, IN 1708-1711.[216]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>It has been universally allowed by all competent judges, that +there never was a voyage of this nature so excellently adjusted +or so well provided in all respects, as the present, or in which +the accidents that usually happen in privateers were so +effectually guarded against; owing to the abilities of the +gentlemen at Bristol, who both charged themselves with the +expence of fitting out this expedition, and took care of every +thing relating to its being properly fitted out. Their first care +was in the choice of proper officers, in which they were very +fortunate. Captain Woods Rogers, who had the chief command, being +a bold, active, and indefatigable officer, not too ready to give +up his opinion to others, and not apt to be flattered by other +people giving up theirs to him. He had been a great sufferer by +the French; but his most singular qualities, and which chiefly +recommended him to the command of this expedition, were a +peculiar felicity in maintaining authority over his seamen, and a +wonderful readiness in devising expedients under the most +difficult circumstances.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 216: A Cruizing Voyage round the World, +&c. by Captain Woods Rogers, 8vo. London, 1712. Voyage to the +South Sea, and round the World, &c. by Captain Edward Cooke, +2 vol. 8vo. London, 1712. Harris, I. 150. Callender, III. +231.]</blockquote> + +<p>Captain Stephen Courtney, the second in command, was a +gentleman of birth, fortune, and amiable character, who had +contributed considerably to the expence of the voyage, and went +in the expedition that he might see how it was conducted, and +either be able to prevent miscarriages, or at least to make a +faithful report of its incidents. Captain Thomas Dover, the third +in command, was a proprietor also. He was bred a physician, and +afterwards made a noise in the world by recommending the use of +crude mercury. He was a man of rough temper, and could not easily +agree with those about him, yet his morose disposition hindered +him from making any party to support him in his ill humours. +Captain Cooke, fourth in command, was second to Captain Courtney. +The pilot in the larger ship was Captain William Dampier, who was +now to proceed for the fourth time into the South Sea, where his +name and exploits were well known and terrible to the Spaniards. +The adventurers were also extremely careful in the choice of +inferior officers, and even as far as possible in procuring the +best private men that could be found.</p> + +<p>In the next place, the proprietors established rules for the +proper conduct of the voyage, which were digested in the +following articles of instruction, and signed by a committee of +proprietors at Bristol, on the 14th July, 1708.</p> + +<p>"For the better government and regulating the affairs of the +present voyage of the ships Duke and Duchess, we do hereby +appoint and constitute Captain Woods Rogers, Captain Thomas +Dover, Captain William Dampier, Mr Charlton Vanbrugh, Messrs +Green, Fry, Charles Pope, Glendall, Bullet, and Wasse, all of +these officers on board the Duke, to be the council on board that +ship: We also appoint Captain Stephen Courtney, Captain Edward +Cooke, Messrs William Stratton, Bathe, John Rogers, White, and +the master, officers on board the Duchess, to be council on board +that ship, in case of the ships being separated from each other. +But, when in company, the whole officers of both ships above +named, are conjunctly to come on board either ship at the summons +of Captains Rogers, Dover, and Courtney, or any two of them, and +to be the council referred to in our general orders, to determine +all matters and things that may arise or be necessary for the +general good daring the whole voyage. In case of the death, +sickness, or desertion of any of the above officers in either +ship, the rest who are of the council of that ship shall convene +on board their own ship, and chose another fit person into that +office and council."</p> + +<p>"We farther require and direct, that all attempts, attacks, +and designs upon the enemy, either by sea or land, shall be first +consulted and debated, either in the particular council if +separated, or in the general council if together; and as the +majority shall conclude how and when to act or do, it shall be +indispensably and cheerfully put in execution, and without +unnecessary delay. In case of any discontents, differences, or +misbehaviours among the officers and men, which may tend to the +disturbance of good order and government on board, either the men +or persons may appeal to the captain to have a hearing by a +council, or the captain shall call a council to have the matter +heard and decided, and may prefer or displace any man according +to desert. All decisions and judgments of the council shall be +finally determined by the majority of voices; and in case of an +equality, Captain Dover is to have a double voice as president, +and we do accordingly order and appoint him president of the +council. All matters transacted in this council shall be +registered in a book by the clerk appointed for that +purpose."</p> + +<p>It was agreed between the owners and those employed in this +voyage, that all prizes were to be divided after the following +rule. Two-third parts of the clear profits were to belong to the +owners, and one-third to the officers, seamen, and landsmen, +which last was to be distributed according to the following +proportions.</p> + +<pre> + If wholly on Shares. If part on Shares, and + part on Wages.[217] + A captain, Shares 24 + Second captain, 20 Wages. Shares + First lieutenant, 16 £3 8 + Second lieutenant, 10 2 10 5 + Third lieutenant, 8 2 4 + Master, 10 2 10 5 + First mate, 6 2 3 + Second mate, 4 1 15 2-1/2 + Surgeon, 10 2 10 5 + Surgeon's mate, 6 1 10 3 + Owner's agent, 10 2 10 5 + Pilot, 8 2 10 4 + Carpenter, 6 2 3 + Carpenter's mate, 4 1 10 2 + Boatswain, 6 2 3 + Boatswain's mate, 4 1 10 2 + Gunner, 6 2 3 + Gunner's mate, 3-1/2 1 10 1-3/4 + Cooper, 5 1 10 2-1/2 + Cooper's mate, 3-1/2 1 5 1-3/4 + Midshipman, 4 1 10 2 + + Shares. Wages. Shares. + + Quarter-master, 3 1 10 1-1/2 + Sailors, 2-1/2 1 8 1-3/4 + Land-men, 1-1/2 14 0-3/4 +</pre> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 217: The wages were probably monthly, +though not so explained.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>"We have two relations of this voyage, one by Captain Rogers, +and the other by Captain Cooke, both in the form of journals. On +the present occasion I shall chiefly follow that written by +Captain Woods Rogers, taking occasionally explanatory +circumstances and descriptions from Captain Cooke: But as they +agree pretty well in their relations, I do not think it necessary +to break the thread of the discourse, but shall proceed as near +as may be in the words of Captain Rogers."--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<p>Besides using as the ground-work of the present chapter, the +narrative drawn up by Harris from the publications of Captain +Woods Rogers and Edward Cooke, we have carefully employed both of +these original works on the present occasion; yet have not deemed +it at all necessary or adviseable to retain the minute and +tedious nautical remarks, and have chiefly attended to such +interesting circumstances as had not been sufficiently +illustrated in the preceding chapters of this book.--E.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage, from England to the Island of Juan +Fernandez</i>.</p> + +<p>Our force on this voyage consisted of the Duke of 300 tons, +carrying thirty guns and 170 men, Captain Woods Rogers commander, +with Captain Thomas Dover as second captain, and three +lieutenants; and the Duchess of 270 tons, with twenty-six guns +and 150 men, commanded by Captain Stephen Courtney, having +Captain Edward Cooke as second captain, and three lieutenants. +Both ships had commission from George Prince of Denmark, husband +to Queen Anne, and Lord High Admiral of England, to cruize on the +coasts of Peru and Mexico in the South Sea, against the French +and Spaniards, and to act jointly and separately.</p> + +<p>On the 15th June, 1708, we went down to King-road, to fit our +ships for sea and the better to keep our men on board, where we +continued till the 1st August, when we weighed anchor and towed +down about five miles below the Holmes. We made sail at one next +morning, and got into Cork harbour on the 5th August, where we +remained till the 27th adjusting all things, taking on board +additional men provided there for us, and discharging some we had +brought from Bristol, who were found unfit for the voyage. Our +complement of men in both ships was now 333, of which above a +third were foreigners from most nations, several of her majesty's +subjects we had on board being tinkers, tailors, haymakers, +pedlars, fiddlers, and the like, with one negro and ten boys; yet +we hoped to be well manned with this motley crew, when they had +got their sea-legs and had learnt the use of arms. We had double +the number of officers usual in privateers, which was meant to +prevent mutinies, so usual in long voyages, and to secure a +succession in case of deaths. Our holds were so full of +provisions, that our cables, and a great deal of our bread and +some water casks were between decks, and having 183 men in the +Duke, and 151 in the Duchess, we were obliged to send our sheet, +cable, and other new store cordage on shore at Cork, to make room +for our men and provisions, yet were so much crowded and lumbered +that we could not have engaged an enemy, without throwing much +provisions and stores overboard.</p> + +<p>Having agreed upon signals between our two ships, and +appointed places of rendezvous in case of separation, and how +long to wait at each for one another, we took sailing orders from +the Hastings man of war on the 1st September, the better to keep +company of her and a fleet bound to the southward and westward. +We sailed that day, and the next we and our consort stood out +from the fleet to chase a sail we saw to windward, when we had +the satisfaction to find that our ship sailed as well as any in +the fleet, not excepting the man of war, so that we hoped we +should find our heels, although so deeply laden. We found the +chase to be a small vessel coming from Baltimore to join the +fleet. On the 4th, Captain Paul of the Hastings proposed to +Captain Courtney and me, after he left the fleet, which would be +soon, to cruise in company a few days off Cape Finister, and +obligingly supplied us with some scrubbers, iron scrapers for the +ships bottoms, a speaking-trumpet, and some other things of which +we were in want, and would not accept any thing in return, as our +voyage was to be so long, saying he hoped our owners would +restore the same articles for his ship on his return. That +evening, calling our crews on deck, we informed them whither we +were bound, and the objects of our expedition; that if any +disputes or mutinies had arisen, we might have sent home the +refractory in the man of war. Only one poor fellow was +dissatisfied, who was to have been tithing-man that year, and +feared his wife might have to pay forty shillings for his +default; but seeing all around him pleased with the hope of +plunder, he too became easy, and drank as heartily as any one to +the success of the voyage.</p> + +<p>We gave chase to a ship on the 10th September, about six in +the morning, which we came up with about three in the afternoon, +when she shewed Swedish colours. On examining the master, we +found he had come round Scotland and Ireland, and suspected he +had contraband of war, as some of the men, whom we found drunk, +told us they had gunpowder and cables on board; wherefore we +resolved to examine her strictly, putting twelve of our men on +board, and taking the Swedish master and twelve of his men aboard +our ships. Next morning, having examined the men and searched the +ship, we found it difficult to prove her a legal prize, and, not +willing to lose time in carrying her into a port for farther +examination, we let her go without embezzlement. She was a +frigate-built ship, of about 270 tons, and twenty-two guns, +belonging to Stadt, near Hamburgh. The crew of the Duke mutinied, +headed by our boatswain and other three inferior officers, +alleging the Swede was a good prize, and had much contraband +goods on board, though we could find none: but being supported by +my officers, well armed, I at length pacified the men, after +putting ten of the mutineers in irons, and soundly whipping a +sailor who had excited the rest. This mutiny would not have been +easily got the better of, but for the number of our officers, +whom we now found very useful in bringing our crews under good +discipline, a very difficult matter in privateers, and without +which it is utterly impossible to succeed in distant and +important enterprises. We sent home Giles Cash, our boatswain, in +irons, on board the Crown galley, with letters to our owners, +justifying our severity; and next morning I discharged our +prisoners from their irons, on their humble submission, and +solemn promise of dutiful behaviour in future.</p> + +<p>On the 18th, between Fuertaventura and Grand Canary, we chased +and took a small Spanish ship, bound from Teneriff to +Fuertaventura, having several men and women passengers, and laden +with a variety of goods. Next day we bore away for Oratavia +Roads, where, after much discussion, we sold the vessel for 450 +dollars, retaining all her goods. The 30th September we put into +the harbour of St Vincent, one of the Cape de Verd islands, +coming to anchor in ten fathoms within the rock. Seeing several +men on shore, though the island is not inhabited, Captain Cook +went in the pinnace, well armed, to see who they were, and found +them some Portuguese from St Antonio, come to catch turtles or +sea-tortoises, who told him we could have wood and water at this +island, which is in lat. 16° 55' N. long. 24° 50' W. from +Greenwich. It has great plenty of Guinea fowl, with some hogs and +goats; and we caught abundance of fish in the road. In the woods +there are great numbers of spiders as large as walnuts, and their +webs are very troublesome to get through, being very numerous, +and as strong as ordinary threads.</p> + +<p>While here, new disturbances arose among the men, in relation +to the effects taken in the late prize; as we had here an +opportunity of purchasing various things, and every one wished to +have the means of purchasing. To put an end to all these +heart-burnings, and to fix the people in a resolution of doing +their duty, we determined to settle this affair by framing such +articles as might inspire the seamen with courage and constancy, +and make them as willing to obey as the officers to command, +without giving our owners any cause of complaint. It cost us some +trouble to adjust these articles, but they effectually answered +our purpose, and all our people readily agreed to abide by +them.</p> + +<p>After staying two days here, in which we heeled our ships, and +got wood and water on board, our boat returned with limes and +tobacco; but our linguist, who had been sent ashore to procure +refreshments, did not make his appearance. Soon after there came +a boat from that part of the island where the governor resides, +on board of which was the deputy-governor, a negro, who brought +limes, tobacco, oranges, fowls, potatoes, hogs, bananas, +musk-melons, watermelons, and brandy, all of which we bought of +him, paying in prize goods we had taken out of the bark at the +Canaries, and at a cheap rate; for they are a poor people, and +are ready to truck for any thing they want at any price, in such +payments as they can make. Being ready to sail, we called a +council to consider what was to be done in respect to the absence +of our linguist, who had promised the deputy-governor to wait for +him at the water-side, but had broke his word; and therefore, as +his absence seemed to be entirely his own fault, it was +unanimously resolved that we ought to leave him behind, rather +than our two ships should wait for one man, who had disobeyed +orders. We were the more inclined to this, that others might +learn, by this example, to comply with their instructions when +sent ashore, and might come aboard again without delay, after +completing their business, and not flatter themselves that fair +words and fine excuses were to atone for breach of duty, to +humour the fancies of individuals, at the expence of delaying the +voyage. This was certainly but an indifferent place for our +linguist to be left in; but he knew the people and the language, +and might easily get a passage home. We persisted therefore in +our resolution, and gave orders for sailing as soon as possible, +that we might not lose the proper season, and be obliged to +double Cape Horn at a wrong time of the year.</p> + +<p>Captain Dampier and others in our ships, who had formerly put +in at St Jago, another of the Cape Verd islands, said that this +island of St Vincent, though not so much frequented, is +preferable to St Jago for outward-bound ships, as its road is +much better, has better land, and is more convenient for wood and +water. The island is mountainous and barren, its plainest part +being over against the sandy bay where we anchored. The wood +growing upon it is short, and only fit for fuel. We watered at a +little stream that flows from a spring down the hill, and is good +fresh-water, the others in that neighbourhood being brackish. It +was formerly inhabited and had a governor, but is now only +frequented by the inhabitants of the other islands in the season +for catching turtle, these islanders being mostly negroes and +mulattoes, and very poor. The stock of wild goats on this island +has been mostly destroyed by the inhabitants of St Nicholas and +St Antonio. The heat at this place was so excessive to us, newly +from Europe, that several of our men became sick, and were +blooded. There are a few wild asses; and some of our officers +wounded one, after a long chase, yet he held out, and tired +them.</p> + +<p>These islands are named from Cape Verd, on the coast of +Africa, whence they lie about 170 leagues to the west.[218] They +are ten in number, of which St Jago, St Nicholas, Bonavista, St +Antonio, Brava, Mayo, and Fuego are inhabited. <i>St Jago</i> is +much the largest and best, and is the seat of the chief governor. +Besides sugar and tobacco, this island produces a small quantity +of indigo, which, with goat-skins and some other articles, are +sent to Lisbon. The capital is named likewise St Jago, and is the +see of a bishop. There is another town, named <i>Ribera +grande</i>, said to consist of 500 houses, which has a good +harbour. The air of this island is rather unwholesome, and the +soil is very unequal, the vallies producing some corn and wine. +The goats are fat and good eating, the females usually producing +three or four kids at a birth, once in four months. <i>St +Nicholas</i> is the best peopled next after St Jago. <i>Mayo</i> +has a great deal of salt, formed by the heat of the sun in pits, +or ponds, into which the sea-water is let from time to time, and +might furnish many thousand tons yearly, if there were vent for +it. The fine <i>Marroquin</i> leather is made from the goat-skins +brought from these islands.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 218: The difference of longitude between +the cape and islands is seven degrees W. or 140 marine +leagues.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We sailed from St Vincent on the 8th October; and in our +passage to the coast of Brazil some new disputes arose among the +men. After various consultations, it was determined that one +Page, second mate of the Duchess, should be removed into the +Duke, whence Mr Ballet was to remove into the Duchess. Captain +Cooke was sent to execute this order, which Page refused to obey, +but was brought away by force. Being accused of mutiny, he +requested leave to go to the head before entering on his defence, +which was permitted, when he jumped overboard, meaning to swim to +the Duchess, while both captains were absent; but he was brought +back and punished, which ended this dissension. The 18th November +we anchored before Isla Grande, on the coast of Brazil, in eleven +fathoms. While here new quarrels arose, and matters had like to +have come to a great height in the Duchess, when Captain Courtney +put eight of the ringleaders in irons, which frightened the rest, +and probably prevented an attempt to run away with the ship. On +the 23d two men deserted from the Duchess, but were so frightened +in the night by tigers, as they supposed, though only monkeys and +baboons, that they took refuge in the sea, and hallooed with all +their might till they were fetched on board: yet, on the 25th, +two Irish landmen stole away into the woods; but both were taken +next day, and put in irons.</p> + +<p>This island is remarkably high land, having a small cliff and +a tip standing up on one side, in the middle of the highest land, +easily seen in clear weather; and there is a small island without +<i>Isla Grande</i> to the southward, rising in three little +hummocks, the nearest hummock to the great island being the +smallest. There is also a singularly round white rock on the +larboard side, nearest Isla Grande, at the entrance between it +and the main going in. On the starboard-side of this entrance +there are several islands, and even the main land has much the +appearance of islands till well in. The best way is, when you +have opened the coves on the starboard-side going in, which are +inhabited, to get a pilot to carry you to the watering-cove on +Isla Grande; otherwise send a boat to the watering-cove, which +lies round the inner and western point of the island, and is near +a league in the passage between small islands, but room enough +and bold. It is the second cove, under the first high mount, +round behind the first-seen point, after getting in between, the +two islands. This is the cove at which we watered; and we sounded +all the passage going in, having seldom less than ten fathoms. +There are other two very good coves, but we had not time to sound +them. The town is N.E. from this cove, about three leagues +distant.</p> + +<p><i>Isla Grande</i> is about nine leagues long, consisting of +high land, as in the main, and all near the water is thickly +covered with wood. The island abounds with monkeys and other wild +beasts, and has plenty of good timber for various uses as well as +fuel, with excellent water; and oranges, lemons, and guavas grow +wild in the woods. From the town we procured rum, sugar, and +tobacco, and the last is sold very dear, though not good for +smoking, being too strong. We got also fowls and hogs, but the +latter were scarce and dear; likewise maize, or Indian corn, +bananas, plantains, guavas, lemons, oranges, and pine-apples are +in great plenty; but they have no bread except <i>cassada</i>, +which they call <i>faranada pan</i>, or bread of wood. Beef and +mutton were cheap, but no great quantity to be had. We had fine +pleasant weather most of the time we were here, but hot like an +oven, as the sun was quite vertical. The winds we did not much +observe, as they were little and variable, but commonly between +the N. and E.</p> + +<p>I had Neuhoff's account of Brazil on board, and from all the +enquiry and observation I could make, I found his description of +the country, with its animals and productions, to be just. I +particularly enquired respecting the monster called the +<i>liboya</i>, or roebuck-serpent, thinking it fabulous; but the +Portuguese governor assured me that they are sometimes found +thirty feet long, and as big round as a barrel, being able to +swallow a roebuck at one morsel, whence it has its name; and he +told me that one of these enormous serpents had been killed near +the town, a short time before our arrival. The principal products +of Brazil are red wood, bearing the name of the country; sugar, +gold, tobacco, snuff, whale oil, and various kinds of drugs; and +the Portuguese build their best ships in this country. Brazil has +now become very populous, and the people take great delight in +arms, especially about the gold mines, to which people of all +kinds resort in great numbers, especially negroes and mulattoes. +Only four years ago [in 1704] these people endeavoured to make +themselves independent, but have now submitted. Some men of +repute told me that the gold mines increase fast in +productiveness, and that the gold is got much easier in them than +in any other country.</p> + +<p>The indigenous Brazilian women are very fruitful, and have +easy labours, on which occasion they retire into the woods, and +bring forth alone, and return home after washing themselves and +their child; the husbands lying a-bed for the first twenty-four +hours, being treated as if they had endured the pains of +child-birth. The <i>Tapoyers</i>, who inhabit the inland country +to the west, are the most barbarous of the natives, being taller +and stronger than any of the other tribes, and indeed than most +Europeans. They wear, by way of ornament, little sticks thrust +through their cheeks and underlips, and are said to be cannibals, +using poisoned arrows and darts. They live chiefly by hunting and +fishing, shifting their habitations according to the seasons. +Their kings, or chiefs, are distinguished by a particular manner +of shaving their crowns, and by wearing their nails very long. +Their priests are sorcerers, making the people believe that the +devils appear to them in the form of certain insects, and they +perform their diabolical worship in the night, when the women +make dismal howlings, in which consists their principal devotion. +They allow polygamy, yet punish adultery with death. When the +young women are marriageable, but not courted, their mothers +carry them to the chiefs, who deflower them, and this is deemed a +great honour. Some of these people were considerably civilized by +the Dutch, while they possessed a part of Brazil, and did them +good service under the conduct of their native chiefs.</p> + +<p>Leaving Isla Grande on the 30th November, we continued our +voyage far to the south, where we endured great cold, owing to +which, a third part of both ships companies fell sick while +passing round Cape Horn, for which reason we bore away for the +island of Juan Fernandez, which we had some difficulty to find, +owing to its being laid down differently in all the charts. Even +Captain Dampier was much at a loss, though he had been there so +often, and had as it were a map of the island in his head, which +exactly agreed with it when we came there. This ought to induce +sea-officers to prefer their own proper business to amusement, +since, with all this knowledge, we were forced to make the main +land of Chili, in order to find this island, and did not strike +it at the last without considerable difficulty.</p> + +<p>We arrived at the island of <i>Juan Fernandez</i> on the 1st +February 1709, and having a good observation the day before, when +we found our lat. 34° 10' S.[219] In the afternoon we hoisted +out our pinnace, in which Captain Dover set off to go on shore, +though not less than four leagues from the ship. As it grew dark, +we observed a light on shore, which some were of opinion was from +our boat, but it was evidently too large for that, and we hung up +a light to direct our boat, firing our quarter-deck gun, and +showing lights in our mizen and fore shrouds, that our boat might +find us, as we had fallen to leeward of the island. Our boat came +aboard again about two in the morning, having turned back on +seeing the light ashore when within a league, and we were glad +they had got off so well, as it now began to blow. We were all +convinced that the light which we had seen was from the shore, +and therefore prepared our ships for an engagement, supposing it +might proceed from some French ships at anchor, which we must +either fight or want water. All this stir and apprehension, as we +afterwards found, arose from one poor man, who passed in our +imaginations for a Spanish garrison, a body of Frenchmen, or a +crew of pirates, and it is incredible what strange notions some +of our people entertained about this light; yet it served to show +their tempers and spirits, and enabled us to guess how our men +would behave, in case there really were enemies on the +island.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 219: Juan Fernandez is in lat 33° 40' +S. long. 79° W. Massa Faera, in the same latitude, is in +long. 80° 50' W. from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>While under these apprehensions, we stood to the back of the +island in order to fall in with the southerly wind, till we were +past the island. We then stood back for it again, and ran close +aboard the land that begins to form its N.E. side. The flaws came +heavy off the land, and we were forced to reef our top-sails when +we opened the middle bay, where we expected to have found our +enemy, but saw all clear, and no ships either there or in the +other bay near the N.E. end. These are the only bays in which +ships can ride that come here for refreshments, the middle one +being the best. We now conjectured that there had been ships +here, but that they had gone away on seeing us. About noon of the +2d February, we sent our yawl on shore, in which was Captain +Dover, Mr Fry, and six men, all armed; and in the mean time we +and the Duchess kept turning in, and such heavy squalls came off +the land that we had to let fly our top-sail sheets, keeping all +hands to stand by our sails, lest the winds should blow them +away. These flaws proceed from the land, which is very high in +the middle of the island; but when they passed by, we had little +or no wind. As our yawl did not return, we sent the pinnace well +armed, to see what had occasioned the yawl to stay, being afraid +there might be a Spanish garrison on the island, who might have +seized her and our men.</p> + +<p>Even the pinnace delays returning, on which we put up a signal +for her to come back, when she soon came off with abundance of +cray-fish, bringing also a man cloathed in goat-skins, who seemed +wilder than the original owners of his apparel. His name was +<i>Alexander Selkirk</i>, a Scotsman, who had been left here by +Captain Stradling in the Cinque-ports, and had lived alone on the +island for four years and four months. Captain Dampier told me he +had been master of the Cinque-ports, and was the best man in that +vessel; so I immediately agreed with him to serve as a mate in +the Duke. During his stay, he had seen several ships pass by, but +only two came to anchor at the island, which he found to be +Spaniards, and therefore retired from them, on which they fired +at him, but he escaped into the woods. Had they been French, he +would have surrendered to them; but chose rather to run the risk +of dying alone on the island than fall into the hands of the +Spaniards, as he suspected they would either put him to death, or +make him a slave in their mines. The Spaniards had landed before +he knew what they were, and came so near him that he had much ado +to escape; for they not only shot at him, but pursued him into +the woods, where he climbed up a tree, at the foot of which some +of them made water, and killed several goats just by, yet went +away without discovering him.</p> + +<p>He told us that he was born in Largo, in the county of Fife in +Scotland, and was bred a sailor from his youth. The reason of his +being left here was a difference with Captain Stradling; which, +together with the ship being leaky, made him at first rather +willing to stay here than to continue in the ship; and when at +last he was inclined to have gone, the captain would not receive +him. He had been at the island before to wood and water, when two +of the men were left upon it for six months, the ship being +chased away by two French South-Sea ships; but the Cinque-ports +returned and took them off, at which time he was left. He had +with him his clothes and bedding, with a firelock and some powder +and bullets, some tobacco, a knife, a kettle, a bible, with some +other books, and his mathematical instruments. He diverted +himself and provided for his sustenance as well as he could; but +had much ado to bear up against melancholy for the first eight +months, and was sore distressed at being left alone in such a +desolate place. He built himself two huts of pimento trees, +thatched with long grass, and lined with goat-skins, killing +goats as he needed them with his gun, so long as his powder +lasted, which was only about a pound at first. When that was all +spent, he procured fire by rubbing two sticks of pimento wood +together. He slept in his larger hut, and cooked his victuals in +the smaller, which was at some distance, and employed himself in +reading, praying, and singing psalms, so that he said he was a +better Christian during his solitude than he had ever been +before, or than, as he was afraid, he should ever be again.</p> + +<p>At first he never ate but when constrained by hunger, partly +from grief; and partly for want of bread and salt. Neither did he +then go to bed till he could watch no longer, the pimento wood +serving him both for fire and candle, as it burned very clear, +and refreshed him by its fragrant smell. He might have had fish +enough, but would not eat them for want of salt, as they +occasioned a looseness; except cray-fish, which are as large as +our lobsters, and are very good. These he sometimes boiled, and +at other times broiled, as he did his goat's flesh, of which he +made good broth, for they are not so rank as our goats. Having +kept an account, he said he had killed 500 goats while on the +island, besides having caught as many more, which he marked on +the ear and let them go. When his powder failed, he run down the +goats by speed of foot; for his mode of living, with continual +exercise of walking and running, cleared him of all gross +humours, so that he could run with wonderful swiftness through +the woods, and up the hills and rocks, as we experienced in +catching goats for us. We had a bull-dog, which we sent along +with several of our nimblest runners to help him in catching +goats, but he outstript our dog and men, caught the goats, and +brought them to us on his back. On one occasion, his agility in +pursuing a goat had nearly cost him his life: as, while pursuing +it with great eagerness, he caught hold of it on the brink of a +precipice, of which, he was not aware, being concealed by bushes, +so that he fell with the goat down the precipice to a great +depth, and was so bruised and stunned by the fall, that he lay +senseless, as he supposed, for twenty-four hours, and when he +recovered his senses found the goat dead under him. He was then +scarcely able to crawl to his hut, about a mile distant, and +could not stir out again for ten days.</p> + +<p>He came at length to relish his meat well enough without bread +and salt. In the proper season he had plenty of good turnips, +which had been sowed there by Captain Dampier's men, and had now +spread over several acres of ground. He had also abundance of +cabbage, from the cabbage-palms, and seasoned his food with the +fruit of the pimento, which is the same with Jamaica pepper, and +has a fine flavour. He found also a species of black pepper, +called <i>malageta</i>, which was good for expelling wind and +curing gripes. He soon wore out all his shoes and other clothes, +by running in the woods; and, being forced to shift without, his +feet became so hard that he ran about every where without +inconvenience, and it was some time after he came to us before he +could wear shoes, as his feet swelled when he first began again +to wear them. After he had got the better of his melancholy, he +sometimes amused himself with carving his name on the trees, +together with the date of his being left there, and the time of +his solitary residence. At first he was much pestered with cats +and rats, which had bred there in great numbers from some of each +species which had got on shore from ships that had wooded and +watered at the island. The rats gnawed his feet and clothes when +he was asleep, which obliged him to cherish the cats, by feeding +them with goats flesh, so that many of them became so tame that +they used to lie beside him in hundreds, and soon delivered him +from the rats. He also tamed some kids, and for his diversion +would at times sing and dance with them and his cats: So that, by +the favour of Providence and the vigour of his youth, for he was +now only thirty years of age, he came at length to conquer all +the inconveniences of his solitude, and to be quite easy in his +mind.</p> + +<p>When his clothes were worn out, he made himself a coat and a +cap of goat skins, which he stitched together with thongs of the +same, cut out with his knife, using a nail by way of a needle or +awl. When his knife was worn out, he made others as well as he +could of some old hoops that had been left on the shore, which he +beat out thin between two stones, and grinded to an edge on a +smooth stone. Having some linen cloth, he sewed himself some +shirts by means of a nail for a needle, stitching them with +worsted, which he pulled out on purpose from his old stockings, +and he had the last of his shirts on when we found him. At his +first coming on board, he had so much forgotten his language, for +want of use, that we could scarcely understand him, as he seemed +to speak his words only by halves. We offered him a dram, which +he refused, not having drank any thing but water all the time he +had been on the island, and it was some time before he could +relish our provisions. He could give us no farther account of the +productions of the island than has been already, except that +there were some very good black plums, but hard to come at, as +the trees which bear them grow on high mountains and steep rocks. +There are many pimento trees, some of them being sixty feet high +and two yards round; and we saw cotton trees still higher, and +near four fathoms round the stems. The climate is excellent, and +the trees and grass are quite verdant the whole year. The winter +lasts no longer than June and July, and is not then severe, there +being then only slight frosts and a little hail, but sometimes +very great rains. The heat of summer is equally moderate, and +there is not much thunder or tempestuous weather. He saw no +venomous, or savage creature on the island, nor any other beasts +besides goats, bred there from a few brought by Juan Fernandez, a +Spaniard, who settled there with a few families, till the +continent of Chili began to submit to the Spaniards when they +removed to that country as more profitable. This island, however, +might maintain a good many people, and is capable of being made +so strong that they could not be easily dislodged.</p> + +<p>We got our smith's forge ashore on the 3d February, and set +our coopers to work to repair our water casks. They made a little +tent also for me on shore, to enjoy the benefit of the land air. +The two ships also set up tents for their sick, so that we had +presently a kind of small town, in which all who were able were +busily employed. A few men supplied us with excellent fish, in +such abundance that they could take as many in a few hours as +would serve 200 men for a meal. There were some sea-fowl in the +bay, as large as geese, but they eat fishy. The governor, for so +we called Mr Selkirk, never failed to procure us two or three +goats every day for our sick men, by which, with the help of +cabbages and other vegetables, and the wholesome air, our men +soon recovered from the scurvy, and we found this island +exceedingly agreeable, the weather being neither too hot nor too +cold. We spent our time till the 10th in refitting our ships, +taking wood on board, and laying in a stock of water, that which +we brought from England, St Vincents, and Isla Grande, being +spoilt by the badness of our casks. We also boiled up and refined +eighty gallons of oil of sea-lions, which we used in lamps to +save candles, and might have prepared several tons, if we had +been provided with vessels. The sailors sometimes used this oil +to fry their fish, for want of butter, and found it sufficiently +agreeable. The men who worked ashore in repairing our rigging, +eat the young seals, which they preferred to our ship's +provisions, alleging that it was as good as English lamb. We made +all the haste we could to get every thing on board, as we learnt +at the Canaries that five stout French privateers were coming in +company into the South Sea.</p> + +<p>This island of Juan Fernandez is about fifteen English miles +in length from E. to W. and five miles where broadest, but +averaging little more than two miles in breadth, and is mostly +composed of high rugged land. I know of nothing in its +neighbourhood which may endanger a ship, except what is +distinctly visible. We anchored in the great bay, [La Baia or +Cumberland harbour] on the N.E. side, about a mile from the +bottom of the bay, our best bower being dropt in forty fathoms, +and the stream anchor carried in with the shore, where it was +laid in about thirty fathoms. We here had plenty of several sorts +of fish, as silver-fish, snappers, bonitoes, cavallos, pollocks, +old wives, and cray-fish of great size. The wind blows here +generally off the shore, sometimes in heavy squalls, but for the +most part calm, and where we were moored the water was very +smooth, owing to the winding of the shore. Mr Selkirk told us it +had never blown towards the land above four hours, all the time +he had been there. It is all hills and vallies, and would +doubtless produce most plants usual in such climates, if manured +and cultivated, as the soil promises well in most parts, and +already grows turnips and some other roots, which I suppose were +formerly sowed. It has plenty of wood and water, and abundance of +wild goats.</p> + +<p>There are such numbers of great sea-lions and other seals of +various sorts, all having excellent furs, in every bay, that we +could hardly walk about along shore for them, as they lay about +in flocks like sheep, their young ones bleating for their dams +like so many lambs. Some of these sea-lions are as big in the +body as an English ox, and they roar like lions. They are covered +with short hair of a light colour, which is still lighter on the +young ones. I suppose they live partly on fish and partly on +grass, for they come on shore by means of their fore paws, +dragging their hind parts after them, and bask themselves in the +sun in great numbers. They cut near a foot deep of fat, and we +killed a good many of them for the sake of their oil, which is of +good quality, but they are difficult to kill. Both sea-lions and +seals were so numerous on the shore, that we had to drive them +away before we could land, and they were so numerous as is hardly +credible, making a most prodigious noise.</p> + +<p>There are but few birds. One sort, called <i>pardelas</i> by +the Spaniards, burrow in the ground like rabbits, and are said to +be good eating. There are also <i>humming-birds</i>, not much +larger than bumble bees, their bills no thicker than a pin, their +legs proportional to their bodies, and their minute feathers of +most beautiful colours. These are seldom taken or seen but in the +evenings, when they fly about, and they flew sometimes at night +into our fire. There is here a sort of cabbage tree, of the +nature of a palm, producing small cabbages, but very sweet. The +tree is slender and straight, with circular knobs on the stem +fourteen inches above each other, and having no leaves except at +the top. The branches are about twelve feet long, and at about a +foot and a half from the body of the tree begin to shoot out +leaves, which are four feet long and an inch broad, and so +regularly placed that the whole branch seems one entire leaf. The +cabbage, which grows out from the bottom of the branches, is +about a foot long and very white; and at the bottom of this there +grow clusters of berries, weighing five or six pounds, like +bunches of grapes, as red as cherries and larger than our +black-heart cherries, each having a large stone in the middle, +and the pulp eats like our haws. These cabbage trees abound about +three miles into the woods, the trunk being often eighty or +ninety feet high, and is always cut down to get the cabbages, +which are good eating; but most of them grow on the tops of the +nearest mountains to the great bay.</p> + +<p>We found here some Guinea pepper, and some silk cotton trees, +besides several others with the names of which I am not +acquainted. Pimento is the best timber, and the most plentiful at +this side of the island, but it is very apt to split till it is a +little dried. We cut the longest and cleanest to split for fire +wood. In the nearest plain, we found abundance of turnip greens, +and water-cresses in the brooks, which greatly refreshed our men, +and quickly cured them of the scurvy. Mr Selkirk said the turnips +formed good roots in our summer months, which are winter at this +island; but this being autumn, they were all run up to seed, so +that we had no benefit of them excepting their green leaves and +shoots. The soil is a loose black earth, and the rocks are very +rotten, so that it is dangerous to climb the hills for cabbages +without great care. There are also many holes dug into the ground +by a sort of birds called <i>puffins</i>, which give way in +walking, and endanger the breaking or wrenching a limb. Mr +Selkirk said he had seen snow and ice here in July, the depth of +the southern winter; but in September, October, and November, the +spring months, the climate is very pleasant, and there are then +abundance of excellent herbs, as purslein, parsley, and sithes. +We found also an herb, not unlike <i>feverfew</i>, which proved +very useful to our surgeons for fomentations. It has a most +grateful smell like balm, but stronger and more cordial, and grew +in plenty near the shore. We gathered many large bundles of it, +which were dried in the shade, and sent aboard for after-use, +besides strewing the tents with it fresh gathered every morning, +which tended much to the recovery of our sick, of whom, though +numerous when we came here, only two died belonging to the +Duchess. We found the nights very cold, and the days not near so +warm as might have been expected in so low a latitude. It hardly +ever rains, instead of which there fall very heavy dews in the +night, which serve the purposes of rain, and the air is almost +perpetually serene.</p> + +<p>The 13th February we held a consultation, in which we framed +several regulations for preserving secrecy, discipline, and +strict honesty in both vessels: and on the 17th we determined +that two men from the Duke should serve in the Duchess, and two +of her men in the Duke, to see that justice was reciprocally done +by each ship's company to the other. The 28th we tried both +pinnaces in the water under sail, having a gun fixed in each, and +every thing else requisite to render them very useful small +privateers.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings of the Expedition on the Western Coast of +America</i>.</p> + +<p>In the evening of the 13th March[220] we saw a sail, and the +Duchess being nearest soon took her. She was a small bark of +sixteen tons from Payta, bound to Cheripe for flour, having a +small sum of money on board to make the purchase, being commanded +by a <i>Mestizo</i>, or one begotten between a Spaniard and an +Indian, having a crew of eight men, one a Spaniard, another a +negro, and all the rest Indians. On asking for news, we were +told, that all the French ships, being seven in number, had left +the South Sea six months before, and no more were to come there; +adding, that the Spaniards had such an aversion to them, that +they had killed many Frenchmen at Callao, the port of Lima, and +quarrelled with them so frequently that none of them were +suffered to come ashore there for some time before they +sailed.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 220: It is quite obvious that they had now +left Juan Fernandez, but this circumstance and its date are +omitted by Harris.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After putting some men aboard the prize, we haled close upon a +wind for the isle of <i>Lobos</i>, and had we not been informed +by our prisoners, had endangered our ships by running too far +within that isle, as there are shoals between the island and the +main, having a passage for boats only in that direction to get +into the road which is to leeward of these islands in a sound +between them. This sound is a mile long and half a mile wide, and +has from ten to twelve fathoms on good ground. The only entrance +for ships is to leeward of the islands. We went in with a small +weather tide, but I could never observe it to flow above three +feet while we were there. On the eastermost island there is a +round hummock, behind which is a small cove, very smooth, deep, +and convenient enough for careening a ship; we here hauled up and +fitted our prize, which we named the <i>Beginning</i>. The +highest part of the island of Lobos, as seen from the road, did +not seem much higher than the top-mast head of a large ship. The +soil is a hungry white clayish earth, mixed with sand and rocks; +and there is no fresh water, nor any green thing to be seen on +either of the islands. They are frequented by many vultures or +carrion crows, and looked so like turkeys that one of our +officers was rejoiced at the sight, expecting to fare +sumptuously, and would not wait till the boat could put him +ashore, but leapt into the water with his gun, and let fly at a +parcel of them; but, when he came to take up his game, it stunk +most abominably, and made us merry at his expence. The other +birds here are pelicans, penguins, boobies, gulls, and one +resembling teal, which nestle in holes under ground. Our men got +great numbers of these birds, which they said were good meat +after being skinned.</p> + +<p>We found abundance of bulrushes and empty jars, which the +Spanish fishers had left on shore; for all over this western +coast of America, they use earthen jars instead of casks, for +containing oil, wine, and all other liquids. There are here +abundance of sea-lions and seals, the latter being much larger +than those we saw at Juan Fernandez, but their fur not so fine. +Our people killed several of these, on purpose to eat their +livers; but a Spaniard on board died suddenly after eating them, +and I forbade their use, and we learnt also from our prisoners +that the old seals are very unwholesome. The wind commonly blows +here fresh from the south, veering to the east, and coming over +the land to where we lay, brought with it a most noisome smell +from the seals on shore, which gave me a violent headach, and +offended every one else extremely. We found nothing so offensive +at Juan Fernandez.</p> + +<p>Our prisoners told as, that the widow of the late viceroy of +Peru was soon expected to embark in a Spanish man of war of +thirty-six guns for Acapulco, with her family and riches; on +which voyage she would either stop at Payta for refreshments, or +pass in sight of that place, as is customary. They said also that +about eight months before, a ship had passed Payta for Acapulco, +loaded with flour and liquors, and having 200,000 dollars on +board. Also, that they had left signior Morel at Payta, in a ship +laden with dry goods, who was expected to sail shortly for Lima; +and that a stout French-built ship richly laden, and having a +bishop on board, was shortly expected at Payta. This is the +common place for refreshments, and is frequented by most ships +from Lima or other parts to windward, on their way to Panama or +other ports on the western coast of Mexico. On this information, +we determined to spend as much time as possible cruising off +Payta, so as not to discover that we were in these seas lest we +should thereby hinder our other designs.</p> + +<p>In pursuance of this plan, we took a galleon on the 1st April, +of 500 tons burden, commanded by two brothers, Joseph and Juan +Morel, laden with dry goods and negroes; and next day we took +another prize. We now determined to make an attack on the town of +<i>Guayaquil</i>; and on the 11th April, in a grand consultation, +this enterprize was fully resolved upon, and a paper of +instructions was drawn up for the guidance of the officers who +were to command, so that each might be taught and kept to his +duty. This enterprize was to be conducted by the three captains, +Rogers, Courtney, and Dover. Captain Dover was to command the van +division, consisting of seventy marines; Rogers the centre +company, of seventy-one men, mostly officers and sailors; and +Courtney the rear-guard, of seventy-three men; while Captain +Dampier, with a reserve of twenty-two men, was to bring up some +pieces of cannon, to be employed if necessary. Our force +therefore on this occasion consisted of 238 men.[221] Captain +Cooke was to remain in the Duchess with forty-two men, and +Captain Fry in the Duke with forty, our entire force being 320 +men, while we had about 266 prisoners in both ships, including +Indians and Negroes.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 221: The enumeration in the text gives only +236 men.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Every thing being arranged, we bore in for Cape <i>Blanco</i> +on the 13th, of which we had sight about noon, bearing E.S.E. ten +leagues off. On the 15th in the morning we saw a ship near the +shore, and having little wind, the Duke's boat, commanded by +Captain Fry, and that of the Duchess by Captain Cooke, rowed +directly for her, going off in such haste that neither of them +had the swivel guns commonly used in the boats, neither had they +their full complement of men, and only ten muskets and four +pistols, with not much powder and shot, and no water. They rowed +very hard for six leagues to get up with the ship, and on Mr Fry +getting near, she hoisted Spanish colours. We could plainly see +that she was French-built, and therefore concluded that it must +be the ship we had long looked for, which was to carry the +bishop. Our ships being almost out of sight, and the chase near +the coast, making the best of her way to run ashore in a sandy +bay, we resolved to lay her on board, one of our boats on each +bow, I[222] being then on her weather quarter, and Captain Fry on +her lee. It was our intention to pretend that we were friends, +till we should get out of the way of her stern-chase guns; but +the Duke's men, conceiving the Spaniards were going to give us a +volley, poured in their shot. We then laid in our oars, and fell +to with our small arms. We kept up a constant fire for a long +time, which was returned by the Spaniards, who killed two of +Captain Fry's men, and wounded one of his and two of mine. One of +the dead men was John Rogers, our second lieutenant, and brother +to Captain Woods Rogers, who had behaved himself gallantly. +Finding the enterprize too difficult, Captain Fry drew off his +boat, as I did soon after. Captain Fry then put some of his men +aboard my boat, giving us some powder and shot, and taking in our +wounded men, on which he stood away towards our ships, while I +resolved to keep the chase if possible from running on shore, and +rather than fail to clap her on board. Seeing our design, the +enemy edged off to sea, and we after them. Our ships came up +apace, while we kept close to the Spaniard, sometimes firing at +him. At length the Duchess got up and fired a shot or two, on +which she struck, and we immediately boarded. The men begged for +quarter, and we promised them all civility. This ship was of 270 +tons, commanded by Don Joseph Arizabella, and had come from +Panama bound for Lima, where she was to have been fitted out as a +man of war, the captain having his commission on board for that +purpose. She had seventy negroes on board, with many passengers. +The loading was bale goods, with some things belonging to the +bishop, and a considerable quantity of pearls; but the bishop had +been landed at Point St Helena, whence he was to go by land to +Guayaquil. Many of the passengers were considerable merchants at +Lima, and the briskest Spaniards I ever saw. After the capture of +this ship, Captain Cooke remained on board, sending her captain +and the rest of the prisoners to the Duke and Duchess.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 222: This particular action is related by +Harris in the words of Captain Cooke, who commanded the boat from +the Duchess.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We now proceeded on our intended expedition against Guayaquil, +sending the <i>Beginning</i> ahead to <i>Punta arena</i>, or +Sandy Point, on the island of Puna, to see if there was any force +to oppose us; but she only found a Spanish bark, quite empty, +riding close under the point. She had been sent to load salt, but +her men had abandoned her on seeing us approach. At five in the +afternoon, our whole force intended for the attack upon +Guayaquil, being embarked in boats, rowed for that place; and at +eleven at night we could see a light in the town, on which we +rowed as easy as we could and in silence, for fear of being +discovered; till we were within a mile of the place. We then +heard a sentinel call to another, and after conversing for some +time, bid him bring fire. Perceiving we were now discovered, we +rowed to the other side of the river, opposite the town, whence +we saw a fire lighted up at the place where the centinels had +talked, and soon after we could see lights all over the town and +at the water side, heard them ring the alarm bell, fire several +vollies, and saw a fire lighted on the hill where the beacon was +kept, all on purpose to give notice to the town and neighbourhood +that we were come into the river.</p> + +<p>Our boats were now moored with grapplings, and so hot a +dispute took place among some of our officers, that they were +heard on shore; but as the Spaniards did not understand what they +said, an English prisoner was brought to the shore to interpret +what they heard. By the time he came, the dispute was over; but +this Englishman afterwards joined us, and gave us this account. +We held a council in the stern sheets of one of our boats, to +consider whether we should land immediately or wait till +day-light; and, as the barks were not come up, in which were the +artillery and half of our men, and as we did not know the ground +sufficiently to act in the dark, it was agreed to wait till day, +by which time it was hoped the barks would join. We accordingly +fell down the river a short way, to meet our barks, hearing +several musket shots by the way. On the 23d April at day-break, +we saw one of our barks at anchor within a mile of the town, +close under the shore, and the other coming up the river with the +tide of flood. We then rowed up to our bark, which had fired the +shots we heard in the night at some fishermen passing by, whom +they took.</p> + +<p>All our force being now joined, we proceeded up the river, and +sent a flag of truce on shore, accompanied by Don Joseph +Arizabella, the governor of Puna, and another prisoner; and then +towed up our barks over against the town, where we came to an +anchor. When Captain Arizabella came with our flag of truce +before the corregidor or mayor of Guayaquill, he enquired our +numbers, which the captain magnified, on which the corregidore +said we were boys, not men. To this the captain answered, he +would find them men, and brave ones too, for they had fought him +gallantly in their open boats, although he had slain the brother +of their commander and others; and therefore advised him to agree +for the ransom of the town, as even if he had 3000 men he would +be unable to withstand the English. To this the corregidore +replied, <i>My horse is ready</i>.</p> + +<p>After bringing our barks to anchor, we went up the river after +some vessels, six of which we secured and brought to anchor +beside our barks. We also took possession of two new ships of +about 400 tons burden each. Soon after this, the governor came on +board one of the prizes, to treat for the ransom of the town and +ships, but could not then agree, but promised to meet the +captains again at seven in the evening, but did not keep his +sword. This evening our boats took some canoes having silver on +board. On the 24th in the morning, the governor came off again to +treat, but no agreement could be made; and at four in the +afternoon we landed all our men in good order, when the Spaniards +only fired one volley and then fled. Our men pursued them to +where their cannon were placed, which they soon gained possession +of, only one gunner, an Irishman, remaining by them till he was +wounded in four places, of which he soon afterwards died. We +marched through both towns in a compact body, driving the enemy +before us, and then placed three guards in the three churches, +setting fire to five or six houses which stood near to a wood +into which the Spaniards had fled, that they might not have the +cover of these houses to annoy our guard, which stood within +pistol shot. All night they kept firing at our sentinels from the +woods, yet without doing us any harm. Several parties also of +horse and foot came out of the wood, as if to attack us, but made +no attempt. In the mean time, the pinnace belonging to the +Duchess, in which was Lieutenant Connely and twenty-two men, went +up the river, landed at every house near its banks, and brought +away all the plate and other articles of value they could find. +In this service, they had some skirmishing with the enemy, in +which one of our men was wounded.</p> + +<p>On the 25th the enemy appeared numerous in the woods, whence +they sometimes came out and skirmished with our guards, in which +one of our men was wounded. We spent the afternoon in sending off +provisions from the town to our ships, and in disposing all +things in readiness in case of being attacked in the night, as +the enemy appeared numerous about the outskirts. For this reason, +all the captains concentrated our whole force at the main guard, +where we had our cannon in readiness. Messengers arrived with a +flag of truce in the morning of the 26th, to treat for ransoming +the town, but could not agree; but in the afternoon it was at +length agreed to pay 30,000 dollars for its ransom, giving three +hostages, and we were to remain at Puna till they had time to +raise the sum, as the inhabitants had carried away their money, +and being so dispersed that it was impossible to collect the +money while we were there, even the inhabitants of the adjacent +country having carried off their valuable effects into the +interior.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 27th, the hostages for the ransom were +sent on board one of our barks, together with a boatload of +brandy; and, as agreed upon with the Spaniards, we took down our +union jack, hoisted a flag of truce, and fired a signal gun, that +the Spaniards might come freely into the town, and that no +hostilities should take place on either side during the time we +had agreed to wait for the money. The purpose of admitting the +Spanish inhabitants was to prevent the Indians and Negroes from +robbing; and I am apt to believe they had already robbed as much +as we had plundered, for we had taken many of them loaded with +goods, while going our rounds, which they confessed to have +stolen; and we were afterwards informed, that the inhabitants, in +their hurry, had given much plate and money to Negroes to carry +out of town, which they could never hear of afterwards.</p> + +<p>The 29th in the morning we took a small Spanish bark, coming +from Cheripe to Guayaquil, on board of which were 330 bags of +meal, and 140 arobas or hundred-weights of sugar, with some +onions, quinces, and pomegranates. This, with the six barks and +two great ships ransomed with the town of Guayaquil, made 14 +prizes taken in the South Sea. The plunder taken in Guayaquil, +exclusive of the ransom, was very considerable. We found 230 bags +of flour, beans, peas, and rice; 15 jars of oil, besides 160 jars +of other liquor; some cordage, iron ware, and nails; about four +half jars of powder; about a ton of pitch and tar; 150 bales of +dry goods; a few packs of indigo, cacao, and arnotto; about a ton +of loaf-sugar; a considerable parcel of clothes and other +necessaries, and to the value of about £1200 in plate, +ear-rings, and other trinkets; besides four pieces of cannon, and +about 200 useless muskets. We left abundance of goods in the +town, besides liquors of all sorts, and a variety of naval +stores, and several warehouses full of cacao. We left also +several ships on the stocks, and two new ships still unrigged, of +above 400 tons each, which cost upwards of 80,000 crowns; and we +also restored four barks, leaving two others to bring down the +ransom. Thus it appears that the Spaniards had a good bargain; +but the agreed ransom, though small, was far better for us than +to burn what we could not carry away. The hostages informed us, +that during our treaty 80,000 dollars belonging to the king had +been sent out of the town, besides plate, jewels, and other +things of the greatest value. Hence it is certain, if we had +landed at the first, giving them no time at all, that we had been +much greater gainers, and might have made 200,000 dollars, in +ready money, plate, and jewels. Yet Guayaquil had not been so +poor for forty years as now, there having been a great fire about +a year and half before we took it, in which the best part of the +town was burnt down, and had occasioned great expence for its +rebuilding.</p> + +<p>As it was, we thought ourselves well off, and great care was +taken that all concerned in the expedition should be satisfied, +by which our people were much gratified, and afterwards shewed +great alacrity in executing our other enterprizes. This is of the +utmost consequence with privateers; for, if the men have the +smallest jealousy of being ill treated in this respect, disputes +arise which do infinitely more mischief than the value of what +can be got by such sinister practices. Among all the men who +landed in this enterprize, the only man who drank a cup too much +was one John Gabriel, a Dutchman, who served in the company +commanded by Captain Rogers. When we were evacuating the town, he +was missing, and was supposed to be either taken or slain. But he +had found some excellent brandy in the house where he was +quartered, of which he drank so liberally that he fell fast +asleep on the floor, and was in that condition when we evacuated +the town. The master of the house returned soon after, and found +the Dutchman stretched out at full length, and so dead asleep +that he could hardly distinguish whether he were living. Calling +in some of his neighbours, and securing the Dutchman's weapons, +they set him on his feet, and with some difficulty brought him to +his senses, when he was not a little alarmed at finding himself +in such company. At length the Spaniard restored his arms, and +desired him to make all the haste he could after his comrades, +who were not yet embarked.</p> + +<p>On the 2d May, which was the day appointed for payment of the +ransom, no boat appeared, and we began to be uneasy for our +money; but at length the boat arrived, and brought us 22,000 +dollars. We received the money, and sent back a message that we +proposed to sail from Puna next morning, and should carry away +the hostages, if the rest of the money were not then sent. We +staid however till the 6th, when Captain Courtney was anxious to +depart, lest we should be attacked by the French and Spanish +ships from Lima. I endeavoured in vain to convince him that we +were in no danger, as they could not by this time have received +notice at Lima, and have fitted out a force sufficient to attack +us. We sailed however, and came to anchor in the afternoon a few +leagues from Point Arena. Next morning, when we were preparing to +sail, Mr Morel, a gentleman from Puna related to our prisoners, +and another gentleman from Guayaquil, brought us 3500 dollars, in +farther payment of our ransom. This put us into such good humour, +that we discharged all our prisoners except the Morels, the three +hostages, and three or four more. The gentleman from Guayaquil +had a gold chain and some other things of value, for which we +sold him our bark, the <i>Beginning</i>, having no farther use +for her. We also gave Captain Arizabella three negro women, and +another to Mr Morel, and returned their wearing apparel to most +of our prisoners who were now liberated, so that we parted good +friends.</p> + +<p><i>Guayaquil</i> is divided into two parts, called the old and +new towns, which together contain about 500 houses, and are +joined by a long wooden bridge for foot passengers, near half a +mile long. It is situated in low boggy ground, so dirty in winter +that it is difficult to go from house to house. There is but one +regular street along the river side, leading to the bridge, and +from it along the old town. Besides this, there is a handsome +parade or square in front of the church of St Jago, but that +church is in ruins. Besides this, there are three other churches, +St Augustin, St Francis, and St Dominic; before which last is +another parade, and a half-moon battery fitted for mounting six +guns, but there were none while we were there. There is also a +chapel, and there had been a church dedicated to St Ignatius, +belonging to the jesuits, but it was burnt down in the great +fire. These were all decently adorned with altars, carved work, +and pictures, and that dedicated to St Augustin had an organ, but +all their plate had been carried away by the priests and +students, who fled into the woods. Some of the houses were of +brick, particularly about the parades, and the rest of timber or +split bamboos, and some of them were decently furnished. Some of +the inhabitants had calashes, but I know not what use they could +be of, all the neighbourhood being so boggy that there was not +road for them.</p> + +<p>The boggy ground about Guayaquil was full of the largest toads +I ever saw, some being as big as an English two-penny loaf. The +town was said to contain 2000 inhabitants of all sorts, including +Indians, Negroes, and Mulattoes. An Englishman who joined us +here, told us that, in the preceding December, on occasion of a +public rejoicing for the birth of the prince of the Asturias, +which lasted for three weeks, they had mustered 1100 foot and 500 +horse, all armed, which came from the surrounding country, +besides a much greater number unarmed, the greater part of whom +must have been Indians. Guayaquil is well situated for trade and +ship-building, being fourteen leagues from Point Arena and seven +from Puna, up a large river, into which fall several smaller +ones, and on which there are many villages and farms. The water +of this river is fresh for four leagues below the city, and all +along its banks grow great quantities of mangroves and +<i>sarsaparillas</i>, and on account of this last the water is +thought salutary against the lues. But during floods, when it +brings down many poisonous plants from the mountains, among which +is the <i>manchinilla</i> apple, it is not reckoned wholesome. +All birds that eat of this apple are sure to die, and we saw +hundreds of them dead, floating on the water.</p> + +<p>The seasons here are very improperly denominated summer and +winter. The winter is reckoned from the beginning of December to +the end of May, in all which season it is sultry, hot, wet, and +unhealthy. From the end of May to the beginning of December, +which they call summer, the weather is serene, dry, and healthy, +and not so violently hot as in what they denominate winter. The +cacao is ripe and mostly gathered between June and August. Of the +other fruits of this country, some are ripe and others green +during the whole course of the year. Guayaquil is the chief city +of a province of that name in the kingdom of Peru, governed by a +president with five or six orders of judges, forming a royal +<i>audiencia</i>, or chief court of judicature, and accountable +only to the viceroy in military affairs,[223] and every province +has a government of the same nature. The governors are appointed, +or more properly purchase their offices, at the court of Old +Spain, and are for life or good behaviour. If any one die or +misbehave, the viceroy may name another during his time, which +ought only to be for five years; but he sometimes gets those of +his own placing confirmed by an order from Spain, by which means +he derives a considerable portion of his unknown profits. The +late viceroy of Peru continued in office fourteen years, several +intended successors having died on the way. Scarcely does the +king of Spain live in greater splendour than the viceroy does at +Lima, where the chief courts of judicature are held, to which +appeals are brought from all the courts and provinces of this +extensive kingdom. I was told on good authority that the last +viceroy, who died about four years ago, left at least eight +millions of dollars to his widow and family, besides vast sums +given in charity during his life, and building many churches, +friaries, and nunneries. He left a better character than any +viceroy had done for an age past.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 223: This province is now in the kingdom or +viceroyalty of New Granada, and audiencia of +Quito.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The province of Guayaquil abounds in excellent timber of +several kinds, so that it is the chief place in all Peru for +building and repairing ships, of which there are seldom less than +seven or eight on the stocks here at one time. Its chief +commodity is cacao, with which it supplies most parts on the +South Sea, and we were told it never exported less than 30,000 +<i>carguas</i> yearly, and sometimes double that quantity, a +<i>cargua</i> being eighty-one pounds weight, which only costs +here two dollars and a half. They have also a considerable trade +in salt and salt-fish, from Cape St Helena, which is mostly sent +to Quito and other places of the inland country. It exports also +a vast quantity of timber to Truxilo, Chana, Lima, and other +places, where it is scarce. They export also from hence rice and +cotton, with some dried or jerked beef. This province has no +mines of gold or silver, but abounds in all sorts of cattle, +which are very cheap, especially on the island of Puna, where we +amply supplied ourselves. Their only grain is maiz, so that all +their wheat flour is brought from Truxilo, Cherisse, and other +places to windward, or to the south, as the wind blows here +always from the south. They procure several kinds of woollen +cloth, among which, are very strong and good bags, from Quito. +Their wines, brandy, olives, oil, and sugar, come from Piscola, +Nasca, and other places to windward. All kinds of European goods +are brought from Panama, being brought there overland from +Portobello on the Gulf of Mexico; and the trade of this port is +so considerable as to employ forty sail every year, besides +coasters. A market is also held daily on bark logs, or boats, +every day, on the river before the town, containing every thing +afforded by the interior country in great plenty.</p> + +<p>The other towns in the province are governed by lieutenants, +or deputies, appointed by the corregidore. Above half of these +towns border on the same river or its branches, so that their +inhabitants can all come to the capital in two tides, though some +are many leagues distant. <i>Porto Vaco</i> was formerly the +capital. In the whole province, the Spaniards reckon 10,000 +inhabitants, but I believe there are many more, including all the +mixed races between Spaniards, Indians, and negroes, which they +divide and subdivide into eleven denominations. Few of the +prisoners who fell into our hands were healthy or sound, and +nearly half of the native Spaniards applied to our doctors for +remedies against the French disease, which is so common here that +it is reckoned no scandal.</p> + +<p>On the 11th May, with a strong gale at S.S.W. we bore away for +the Gallepagos islands, being in a very sad condition; for we had +upwards of twenty men ill in the Duke, and near fifty in the +Duchess, seized with a malignant fever, contracted, as I suppose, +at Guayaquil, where a contagious disease had reigned a month or +five weeks before we took it; which swept away ten or twelve +persons every day, so that all the churches were filled, being +their usual burying places, and they had to dig a great deep hole +close by the great church, where I kept guard, and this hole was +almost filled with putrefying bodies: and our lying so long in +that church, surrounded by such noisome scents, was enough to +infect us all. In twenty-four hours more we had fifty men down +and the Duchess upwards of seventy, and in the next twenty-four +hours, ten more fell sick in each ship. We discovered land on the +17th, and on the 18th, at day-break, we were within four leagues +of two large islands almost joining each other, having passed +that we first saw during the night. We sent repeatedly ashore +here in search of water, but could find none, though the people +went three or four miles up into the country, and they reported +that the island was nothing but loose rocks like cinders, very +rotten and heavy, and the earth so parched that it broke into +holes under their feet. This made me suppose there had been a +volcano here; and though there is much shrubby ground, with some +green herbs, there was not the smallest signs of water, neither +was it possible for any to be contained on such a surface. In +short, we found these islands completely to disappoint our +expectations, and by no means to agree with the descriptions of +former voyagers. We had also the misfortune to lose company of +one of our barks, in which was Mr Hately, with five of our men, +two Spanish prisoners, and three negroes.[224]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 224: Mr Hately, being unable to rejoin his +companions, was forced to land at Cape Passado in lat. 0° 25' +S. on the coast of Guayaquil, where he and his people were +barbarously used by a mixed race between the Indians and negroes; +but were rescued by a priest, and sent to Lima, where he was +kindly treated.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In a consultation on the 26th May, we resolved to proceed for +the island of Plata in quest of water, and then to come +immediately off the coast again, having information of two French +ships, one of sixty and the other of forty-six guns, together +with a Spanish man of war, that would soon be sent in search of +us. It was also our intention to refit our ships there, and not +to go near the main, our ships being out of order, and our men +very weak and sickly, several of them having already died. We +accordingly sailed on the 27th, and in another conversation on +the 30th, it was agreed to go first to <i>Gorgono</i>, to see if +there were any English ships there; and afterwards to sail for +<i>Maugla</i>, Malaga, or <i>Madulinar</i>,[225] where there are +some Indians at enmity with the Spaniards, who, as the pilots +informed us, come seldom there, and were not likely to procure +any intelligence of us from thence. They told us also, if we +could induce the Indians to trade with us, we might have hogs, +fowls, plantains, bananas, and other refreshments.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 225: The island of Gorgona is on the coast +of New Granada, in lat. 2° 54' N. and long. 78° 35' +W.]</blockquote> + +<p>While on our course towards Gorgona, the Duchess took the +<i>San Thoma de Villa nova</i> of ninety tons, having about forty +people on board, including eleven negro slaves, and but little +European goods, except some cloth and iron. Next day we made the +island of <i>Gorgona</i>,[226] and on the 8th of June our boats +brought in another prize, a small bark of fifteen tons belonging +to a creek on the main. She was bound to Guayaquil, having ten +Spaniards and Indians on board, and some negroes, but had very +little cargo, except a small quantity of gold dust and a large +gold chain, together of about 500<i>l</i>. value, which were +secured aboard the Duchess. In a consultation, held on the 19th +June, proceeding upon information procured from our prisoners, it +was resolved to proceed to Malaga, at which there was an +anchorage, where we proposed to leave our ships, and to row up +the river for the rich gold mines of Barbacore, +[<i>Barbaceas</i>][227] called also the mines of St Pean, from a +village of that name about two tides up the river. At that place +we proposed to seize canoes, as fitter than our boats for going +up against the stream, in which, at this season of the year, +according to the information of an old Spanish pilot, there are +such strong freshes, that he did not expect we should reach the +mines in less than twelve days. But having discoursed with +several of the prisoners, we found the island of Malaga an unsafe +place for our ships, and besides, they represented the river as +so narrow, that the Indians would be able to assail us with +poisoned arrows, and the Spaniards might easily cut off our +retreat, by felling trees across from bank to bank. On this +information, we held another consultation, in which it was agreed +to desist from this enterprize, and we came accordingly back to +Gorgona, in so very weak a condition that we could hardly have +defended ourselves, if attacked.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 226: It is somewhat difficult to ascertain +what island is here meant. There are some islands at the mouth of +the <i>Rio de Mira</i>, in lat. 1° 38' N. on one of which is +<i>Punta de Mangles</i>, or Cape Mangles, resembling one of the +names in the text; but from the context, the island for which +they were next bound appears to have been that now called <i>Del +Gallo</i>, in lat. 1° 55' N. not above ten miles south from +the river they proposed to enter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 227: Barbacoas is one of the provinces of +New Granada, having a town of the same name in the <i>Rio +Telemli</i>, which joins the <i>Rio Patia.</i>--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We arrived at Gorgona on the 13th June, where we anchored in +forty fathoms, and resolved to careen our two ships in +succession, beginning with the Duchess. Our sick men were removed +into the galleon, and the sick officers to the French-built ship. +We landed tents for the cooper's and armourer's crews, and +cleared a place for tents to accommodate the sick on shore. All +this was performed with so much diligence, that by the 28th both +ships were careened, caulked, rigged, and restored fit for sea. +On the 29th, we set up tents ashore for the sick, who were +already much recovered, though the Spaniards had represented this +island as unhealthy; yet by walking about on shore they soon +gathered strength enough to return to their duty. We here fitted +out the French-built ship, with twenty guns, putting Captain +Cooke into her, with a crew taken from the other two ships, +resolving to carry her home with us, and to employ her as a third +cruizer while in these seas; and this great work employed us from +the 29th June to the 9th July, calling her the <i>Marquis</i>. +She had thirty-five men from the Duke and twenty-six from the +Duchess, making a crew of sixty-one British, to which were added +twenty negroes.</p> + +<p>Our next care was to get rid of our prisoners, who were a +great burden to us, and we resolved therefore to set them on +shore, after trying every possible method to engage them in a +scheme for trading with us. For this purpose I proposed going to +Panama, to remain six days near that place, till they should +bring the money we could agree for, as the price of our prize +goods; and to this the two Morels and Don Antonio agreed, +provided we would take 60,000 dollars for the whole. I then +proposed to give them up the galleon and all the goods and +negroes, if they would give us 120,000 dollars for the whole. +They told us that trading in these seas with strangers, +especially the English and Dutch, was so rigidly prohibited, that +they would have to give more than the original cost in bribes, to +procure licence to deal with us, and could not therefore assure +us of payment, unless we agreed to take a low price. Finding it +therefore not worth while to waste time, and knowing we should +run much risk in treating with them, we at length resolved to set +them all ashore, hoping the Morels and Don Antonio would get +money for us, to prevent us from burning the ships we could not +conveniently carry away. At parting, I made them sensible that we +had treated them like generous enemies, and said we would sell +them good bargains for what money they might be able to bring us +in ten days, after which we should burn or carry away all that +was not then disposed of. We accordingly landed seventy-two +prisoners on the 10th July. On the 16th the Morels came off with +what money they had been able to procure, and bought some of our +goods, behaving with much honour, and putting great confidence in +us. On the 18th, a negro belonging to the Duchess was bitten by a +small brown speckled snake, and died in twelve hours. There are +many snakes in this island of Gorgona, and I saw one above three +yards long, and as thick as my leg. The same morning the Mr +Morels went off a second time in our bark for money; and this day +one of the same kind of snakes that killed our negro was found on +the forecastle of the Duke, having crawled up the cable, as we +supposed, as they were often seen in the water.</p> + +<p>On the 2d of August we were like to have had a mutiny, for the +steward informed me that he understood many of the men had +entered into a secret agreement, and he had heard some +ringleaders boasting that sixty men had already signed the paper, +but knew not the nature of their design. I immediately convened +the officers in the cabin, where we armed ourselves, and soon +secured four of the principal mutineers, putting the fellow who +wrote the paper in irons. By this time all the people were on +deck, and we had got their paper from those we had in custody; +the purport of it being to refuse accepting the intended +distribution of plunder, and not to move from this place, till +they had what they termed justice done them. Not knowing how far +this mutiny might have been concerted with the people of the +other ships, we agreed to discharge those in confinement, on +asking pardon, and faithfully promising never to be guilty of the +like again.</p> + +<p>We sailed from Gorgona on the 11th August, and as our ships +were now rather thinly manned, I engaged thirty-two of our negro +prisoners to join our company, placing Michael Kendall, a free +Jamaica negro, who had deserted to us from the Spaniards, as +their leader, and charging him to exercise them in the use of +arms. At the same time I supplied them with clothes, desiring +them to consider themselves now as Englishmen, and no longer +slaves to the Spaniards. After this we stood over to the bay of +<i>Jecames</i>, [Atacames,] where the Indians are free; and with +much ado entered into trade with them, by the help of a priest. +We sent them three large wooden saints to adorn their church, +which they took as a great present; and I sent a feathered cap to +the wife of the chief which was well accepted. We here sold some +of our prize goods to good account, so that we had provisions +very cheap. We sailed from hence on the 1st September, intending +for the Gallapagos, and on the 8th we made one of these +islands.</p> + +<p>Next day we came to anchor in about thirty fathoms; and in the +evening our boats brought us off a lading of excellent turtle, +having sent our yawl and several men ashore previously to turn +over these creatures in the night; but to no purpose, as we +afterwards found they only came ashore in the day. The island off +which we lay was high, rocky, and barren, with some low land next +the sea, but now water was to be found, like those we had seen +formerly. On the 12th the Duchess, which lay at anchor a good +distance from us, had got about 150 land and sea-tortoises, but +not generally so large as ours; while we had 120 turtles, but no +land-tortoises as yet. The Marquis had the worst luck. On the +13th, I sent our pinnace to the place where the Duchess got +land-tortoises, which returned at night with thirty-seven, and +some salt they had found in a pond; and our yawl brought us +twenty sea-turtles, so that we were now well provided. Some of +the largest land-tortoises weighed 100 pounds; and the largest +sea-turtles were upwards of 400 pounds weight. The land-tortoises +laid eggs on our deck; and our men brought many of them from the +land, pure white, and as large as a goose's egg, with a strong +thick shell, exactly round.</p> + +<p>These are the ugliest creatures that can well be imagined, the +back-shell being not unlike the top of an old hackney-coach, as +black as jet, and covered with a rough shrivelled skin. The neck +and legs are long, and as big as a man's wrist, and they have +club-feet as large as a fist, shaped much like those of an +elephant, having five knobs, or thick nails, on each fore-foot, +and only four on the hind-feet. The head is small, with a visage +like that of a snake; and when first surprised they shrink up +their head, neck, and legs under their shell. Some of our men +affirmed that they saw some of these about four feet high, and of +vast size; and that two men mounted on the back of one of these, +whom it easily carried at its usual slow pace, not appearing to +regard their weight. They supposed this one could not weigh less +than 700 pounds. The Spaniards say that there are no others in +these seas, except at the Gallapagos, but they are common in +Brazil.</p> + +<p>The 15th, being under sail with a fine breeze, we agreed to +lay to till midnight. The 16th, seeing many islands and rocks to +the westwards, we agreed to bear away, not caring to encumber +ourselves among them during the night; but by six in the evening, +from the mast-head, we could see so many low rocks, almost +joining from island to island, that we seemed land-locked for +more than three parts of the compass, and no way open except the +S.W. whence we came. We resolved therefore to return that way, +making short trips all night, and continually sounding, for fear +of shoals, having from forty to sixty fathoms. The 18th and 19th +we saw several more islands, one of them very large, which we +supposed to be near the equator. At noon of the 19th we had an +observation, making our latitude 2° 2' N. We saw in all at +least fifty islands, some of which we searched, and others we +viewed from a distance, but none had the least appearance of +fresh water.[228] Signior Morel told me that a Spanish man-of-war +had been to an island in lat. 1° 20' or 30' S. 140 Spanish +leagues west from the island of <i>Plata</i>, and to which they +gave the name of <i>Santa Maria del Aguada</i>, a pleasant island +with a good road, full of wood, and having plenty of water, with +turtle and sea-tortoises in abundance. This I believe to have +been the same island in which Davis the buccaneer recruited; and +all the light he has left by which to find it again, is, that it +is to the west of the islands he was at with the other +buccaneers, which must be those we were twice at. We had no +occasion to look out for this island on the present trip, though +I believe it might easily have been found without farther +directions. In these islands there are many kinds of sea-fowl, +and some land-birds, particularly hawks and turtle-doves, both so +very tame that we often knocked them down with sticks. I saw no +kind of beasts, but there are guanas in abundance, and +land-tortoises almost on every island, besides vast numbers of +turtles or sea-tortoises. It is very strange how the +land-tortoises have got here, as there are none on the main, and +they could not have come of themselves. Some of these islands are +the haunts of seals, but not in such numbers as at Juan +Fernandez, neither is their fur so good. A very large one made at +me three several times, and if I had not happened to have a +pike-staff headed with iron, he might have killed me. I was on +the level sand when he came open-mouthed at me from the water, as +fierce and quick as an angry dog let loose. All the three times +he made at me, I struck the pike into his breast, which at last +forced him to retire into the water, snarling with an ugly noise, +and shewing his long teeth. This animal was as big as a large +bear.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 228: In Cowley's voyage, formerly given, +one of these islands, which he calls the Duke of York's Island, +is said to have abundance of wood and water, but none to be had +in any of the rest. Perhaps the Duke of York's Island of Cowley, +and Santa Maria del Aguada of Morel, may be the +same.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 1st October we made the main-land of Mexico, which +Captain Dampier immediately recognized as near the place where he +had attacked the lesser Manilla ship in the St George. Our men +began again to fall sick, and two of them dropped down on the +deck in a kind of scorbutic appoplexy, but recovered on being let +blood. The 2d we made <i>Cape Corientes</i>, on the coast of +Mexico, in lat. 20° 25' N. which we knew by our charts. +Captain Dampier had been here, but it was a long time ago, and he +did not seem to remember much of the matter; yet when he came to +land at different places, he very readily recollected them. Our +purpose now was to look for the islands called <i>Tres +Marias</i>, to procure some refreshments, but found this somewhat +difficult, being very uncertain as to their true situation. In +the afternoon of the 4th, Cape Corientes bore E.N.E. about ten +leagues, and next morning, being fine clear weather, we +discovered two islands at the distance of about fourteen leagues, +one bearing N. by W. and the other N. by E. At noon we had an +observation, and found our latitude 20° 45' N.</p> + +<p>The sight of these islands was very satisfactory, for though +our men had their fill of land and sea-turtle, which kept them +from the scurvy, they were but weak, as that is but a faint food, +except they had enough of bread or flour to eat with it; whereas +they only had a pound and a quarter of bread or flour to five men +per day, on purpose to husband our stock till we came to live +entirely on salt-meat, when we should be under the necessity to +allow more. On the 6th I sent a pinnace to the eastern island, to +look if there were any good road, or convenience for wooding and +watering; but the officer reported that the island had foul +ground for near half a mile from the shore, with bad anchorage +and worse landing; and though there was abundance of wood, no +water was to be had. This was bad news for us, as our water began +to grow scarce. We now bore up for the middle island, which +Captain Dampier believed he had been at when he sailed with +Captain Swan, and on which occasion they found water. On the 8th +our boat returned from the middle island, they and the boat of +the Duchess having landed at several places on the S.E. side of +the island, where was plenty of good water. They saw no signs of +any people having been there lately, but found a human skull on +the ground. This was supposed to have belonged to one of two +Indian chiefs, who were left there by Captain Swan, about +twenty-three years before, as Dampier told us: for victuals being +scarce with these buccaneers, they would not carry the poor +Indians any farther, after they had served their turns, but left +them to starve on this desolate island. The Marquis and bark +having separated from us, we kept a light up all night, and made +a fire on the island, that they might see where to find us at +anchor; but not seeing them next morning at day-break, I proposed +to have gone in search of them; but Captain Courtney and the rest +made light of the matter, believing they might soon come in +without assistance, which they afterwards did.</p> + +<p>The supply of cattle, hogs, and plantains we procured at +Atacames lasted us to the Gallapagos, and we had fed on turtle +ever since till the last two days, which was a great refreshment +to our men, and husbanded our stock of European provisions. On +the 9th, I sent an officer to view the other side of the island, +who told me, on his return, it was much better than where we +were, having several sandy bays, on which he had seen the tracks +of turtle. On this intelligence I sent the boat back in the +evening; and it came back next morning with a full load of +turtle, leaving another load ready turned; and, what was of much +more consequence, they found good water; whereas that we had +gotten hitherto purged the men excessively. As we wooded, +watered, and furnished ourselves with fresh provisions here, and +as these islands are little known, some account of them may be +acceptable.</p> + +<p>The <i>Tres Marias</i>, or Three Marias, off the western coast +of Guadalaxara, in the kingdom of Mexico, are in a range +stretching from S.E. to N.W. of about forty-five English miles in +length. The largest island is the N.W. which appeared a high +double land, and above five leagues in length: the middle island +about three leagues; and the south-eastermost hardly two leagues. +There also are high lands, full of trees; and near the least +island there are two or three small broken white islets, one of +which was so like a ship under sail, that we gave the signal for +a chase. The S.E. end of the island is in lat. 21° 10' N. +long. 105° 56' W. and the N.W. point of the N. island is in +lat. 21° 40' N. long. 106° 26' W. the distance from each +being about two marine leagues. These islands have abundance of +parrots of different sorts, with pigeons and other land-birds, of +which we killed great numbers. There were also many excellent +hares, but much smaller than ours. We saw likewise abundance of +guanas, and some racoons, which barked and snarled at us like +dogs, but were easily beaten off with sticks. The water is more +worthy of remark than any other thing we saw here, as we only +found two good springs, which ran in large streams; the others +being bitter and disagreeable, proceeding, as I suppose, from +being impregnated by shrubs or roots growing in the water, or +from some mineral.</p> + +<p>The turtle we found here are of a different sort from any I +had ever seen, though very good. Though it is ordinarily believed +that there are only three sorts of sea-turtles, yet we have seen +six or seven sorts at different times, and our people have eaten +of them all, except the very large <i>whooping</i> or +<i>loggerhead</i> kind, which are found in great plenty in +Brazil, some of them above 500 pounds weight. We did not eat of +these, because at that time our provisions were plentiful. At the +Gallapagos, both males and females were observed to come on shore +only in the day time, quite different from what I had heard of +them at other places; whereas all we caught here were by turning +them over in the night, when the females come on shore to lay +their eggs and bury them in the dry sand. One of these whom we +caught had 800 eggs in her belly, 150 of which were skinned over +and ready for being extruded at once. Some authors alledge that +these eggs are six weeks in hatching, which I can hardly credit, +as the sun makes the sand in which they are deposited excessively +hot, and they are only covered by a very thin film or skin, +instead of a shell. In order to ascertain this point, I made some +of our men ashore watch one carefully, and mark the place and +time of laying her eggs. In less than twelve hours they found the +eggs addled, and in about twelve hours more they had young ones +completely formed and alive. Had we remained some time longer, I +might have thoroughly satisfied myself and others, respecting the +quick production of tortoises; for I am apt to credit the report +of several of our men, who asserted that having found eggs in the +sand, and looked for them three days afterwards in the same +place, they then found nothing but films; which shews that the +young ones are hatched in that time. They assured me also that +they had seen the young brood run out of the sand every day, +making directly in great numbers for the sea.</p> + +<p>There were few fish about the shores of this island, these +being of the ordinary sorts usually met with in these seas; but +the abundance of turtle at this time amply made up for this +defect. The chief officers fed here deliciously, being scarcely +ever without hares, turtle-doves, pigeons, and parrots of various +colours and sizes, many of which had white or red heads, with +tufts of feathers on their crowns. We found good anchorage at +this middle island, and gradual soundings from twenty-four to +four fathoms close by the shore; and between this and the least +or southern island the depth was about the same as where we were, +having no shoal between but what was visible, as a rock lay off +the S.W. point and a shoal off the N.E. point of the same, with +another at a great distance from that point of the least island, +but neither were above half a mile from the shore.</p> + +<p>Sailing from these islands, we saw land on the 1st November, +which proved to be the point of California, or that headland +called Cape St Ducas. It was now necessary to put in execution +the rules we had formerly laid down for cruizing, as also to +settle our regulations about plunder. Accordingly, my station was +to be the outermost in the Duke, the Duchess in the middle, and +the Marquis nearest the shore; the nearest ship to be at the +least six leagues, and nine at the most from shore, and the bark +to ply between ship and ship, carrying advice. By this means we +could spread out fifteen leagues, and might see any thing that +passed in the day within twenty leagues of the shore; and to +prevent any ships passing in the night, we were to ply to +windward all day, and to drive to leeward all night. On the 5th +November, the Duchess went nearest shore, and the Marquis took +the middle station. We were much encouraged by considering that +in this very place, and about the same time of the year, Sir +Thomas Candish took the Manilla ship.</p> + +<p>On the 16th we sent our bark to look for fresh water on the +main, and next morning she returned to us, reporting that they +had seen wild Indians, who paddled to them on bark-logs. These +Indians were fearful of coming near our people at first, but were +soon prevailed upon to accept a knife or two and some baize, for +which they gave in return two bladders of water, two live foxes, +and a deer skin. Till now, we thought that the Spaniards had +missionaries among these people, but finding them quite naked, +with no appearance of any European commodities, nor a single word +of the Spanish language, we concluded that they were quite +savage, and we dispatched the bark and a boat a second time, in +hopes of procuring some refreshments, with some trifles to +distribute among the natives. On the 19th our men returned, +having become very familiar with the Californians, who were the +poorest wretches that could be imagined, and had no manner of +refreshments whatever to afford us. They brought off some Indian +knives made of sharks teeth, and a few other curiosities, which I +preserved to shew what shifts may be made. It was now the 9th of +December, near a month after the time when the Manilla ships +generally fall in with this coast, and we were much embarrassed +by the impossibility of procuring any intelligence respecting +them. On examining our provisions, we found only bread on board +for seventy days, even at our present short allowance, and it +would require not less than fifty days for our run across the +Pacific to Guam, one of the Ladrones; wherefore we resolved to +continue our cruize here no longer than other eight days. Being +in want of water also, it was agreed upon that the Marquis should +go first into a harbour for that necessary article, while the +Duke and Duchess continued on the look-out, and then these other +ships to do the same in succession.</p> + +<p>On the 21st December, while bearing up for the port in which +was the Marquis, the man at the mast-head, about nine in the +morning, gave notice that he saw a sail besides the Duchess and +bark, seeming about seven leagues from us. We immediately hoisted +our ensign, and bore for the strange sail, as did the Duchess; +and as it fell calm, I sent the pinnace to endeavour to make out +what she was. All the rest of the day we had very little wind, so +that we made hardly any way, and as our boat did not return we +remained in much anxiety, not knowing whether the ship in sight +were our consort the Marquis, or the Manilla ship. In this +uncertainty, I sent Mr Fry in our yawl to the Duchess, to +endeavour to learn what this ship was, and as soon as the yawl +was gone I hoisted French colours and fired a gun, which the +stranger answered, and in some measure cleared our doubts. Mr Fry +soon returned, bringing the joyful news that the ship in sight +really was the Manilla galleon for which we had waited so long, +and of which we were now almost in despair of meeting. This +revived our courage, and every one actively prepared for the +engagement; all our melancholy reflections on the shortness of +our provisions for the run to Guam being now dispelled, and +nothing now occupied our thoughts but of our being masters of the +mighty treasure supposed to be on board this ship, while every +moment seemed an hour till we could get up with her. We gave +orders for the two pinnaces to keep with her all night, shewing +false fires from time to time, that we might know whereabout they +and the chase were; and it was agreed, if the Duke and Duchess +could get up with her together, that we should board her at once. +Before night we had made a clear ship, and had every thing in +readiness for action at day-light; and all night long we kept a +sharp look-out for the boats false fires, which we frequently saw +and answered.</p> + +<p>At day-break of the 22d December, 1709, we saw the chase about +a league from us on our weather bow, the Duchess being a-head of +her to leeward about half a league. About six a.m. our boat came +aboard, having kept very near the chase all night without +receiving any damage, and told us that the Duchess passed the +chase in the night, at which time the chase fired two shots at +her, which were not returned. Having no wind, we got out eight +sweeps, with which we rowed for near an hour, when there sprung +up a small breeze. I ordered a large kettle of chocolate to be +prepared for the ship's company, having no spirituous liquor to +give them, and then went to prayers; but were disturbed before +these were finished, by the enemy firing at us. To deter as from +attempting to board, they had barrels hung at their yard arms, +which resembled barrels of powder. About eight a.m. we began to +engage by ourselves, for the Duchess being still at leeward, had +not been able to get up, as there was very little wind. At first +the enemy fired at us with their stern-chase guns, which we +returned with those on our bows, till at length we got close on +board each other, when we gave her several broadsides, plying our +small arms very briskly; which last the enemy returned as thick +for a time, but did not fire their great guns half so fast as we. +After some time, we shot a little a-head, laying the enemy +athwart hawse close aboard, and plied her so warmly that she soon +lowered her colours two-thirds down. By this time the Duchess had +got up, and fired about five guns with a volley of small arms; +but as the enemy had submitted she made no return.</p> + +<p>We now sent our pinnace on board the prize, and brought away +the captain and other officers; from whom we learnt that a larger +ship had come from Manilla along with them, having forty-six +brass guns and as many swivels, but they had parted company with +her about three months before, and supposed she had got to +Acapulco by this time, as she sailed better than this ship. Our +prize had the following high-sounding name <i>Nostra Senoria de +la Incarnacion Disenganio</i>, commanded by the Chevalier Jean +Pichberty, a Frenchman. She had twenty guns and twenty +pattereroes, with 193 men, of whom nine were killed, ten wounded, +and several sore scorched with gun-powder. We engaged her three +glasses, in which time only I and another were wounded. I was +shot through the left cheek, the bullet carrying away great part +of my upper jaw and several of my teeth, part of which dropt on +the deck, where I fell. The other was William Powell, an Irish +landman, who was slightly wounded in the buttock. After my wound, +I was forced to write my orders, both to prevent the loss of +blood, and because speaking gave me great pain. We received +little damage in our rigging during the engagement, except that a +shot disabled our mizen-mast. On the 23d, after we had put our +ship to rights, we stood in for the harbour where the Marquis +was, distant about four leagues to the N.E. sending our surgeons +on board the prize to dress her wounded men. We same to anchor in +the harbour about four p.m. where we received the compliments of +all on board the Marquis on our sudden and almost unlooked-for +success, which gave us all much satisfaction. We found that ship +in good condition and ready to sail, and all on board her in high +spirits, eager for action. At eight the same evening we held a +consultation on two important points: <i>first</i>, what we +should do with our hostages; and, <i>secondly</i>, how we should +act in regard to the other Manilla ship, which we still thought +there was a strong probability of our taking, if we could remain +here a little longer. As the hostages from Guayaquil, and the +Chevalier Pichberty, brother to the famous Monsieur du Cass, +appeared to be men of strict honour, we thought it was best to +make the best terms we possibly could with them, and then set +them at liberty. We had more difficulty in settling the other +point in discussion, as to the mode of attacking the other +Manilla ship. I was desirous of going out along with the Marquis +on that service; but as some reflections had been cast on the +Duchess for not engaging our late prize so soon as it was thought +she might have done, Captain Courtney was absolutely bent on +going out with his own ship and the Marquis, and having a +majority in the committee, my proposal was overruled, and we in +the Duke were reluctantly constrained to remain in harbour. It +was agreed, however, that we should put ten of our best hands on +board the Duchess, the better to enable her to engage the great +Manilla ship, if she were fallen in with; and she and the Marquis +sailed on Christmas-day. As soon as they were gone, we put part +of the goods from our bark into the prize, in order to send away +our prisoners in the bark; and as there were still due 4000 +dollars of the Guayaquil ransom, we agreed to sell them the bark +and her remaining cargo for 2000 dollars, taking the Chevalier de +Pichberty's bill for 6000 dollars, payable in London, which he +readily gave us, together with an acknowledgment under his hand +that we had given him a good bargain. This matter being settled, +we had only to look to our own safety while our consorts were out +on their cruize for the Manilla ship. We posted two centinels on +a hill, whence they had a clear view of the sea, with +instructions to give us notice by a signal whenever they saw +three ships in the offing, that we might have time to secure our +prisoners, and to get out to the assistance of our consorts, as +we expected they might have hot work, this other Manilla ship +being much stronger and better manned than the one we had taken, +and better provided in all respects.</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of the 26th, our sentries made the appointed +signal of seeing three ships; on which we immediately put all our +prisoners into the bark, from which we removed her sails, and +took away all our men, except two lieutenants and twenty-two men, +whom we left to look after our prize and the prisoners. As the +prisoners, though 170 in number, were secured in the bark, +without sails, arms, rudder, or boat, and moored near a mile +distant from our prize, there were more than sufficient for +guarding them and giving them provisions and drink during our +absence. This being arranged, we immediately weighed and stood to +sea, in order to assist our consorts in attacking the great ship. +Captain Dover thought proper to go on board the prize, instead of +one of our lieutenants, whom he sent to me. I was still in a very +weak condition, my head and throat being very much swelled, so +that I spoke with great pain, and not loud enough to be heard at +any distance; insomuch that all the chief officers and our +surgeons wished me to remain in the prize, but I would not +consent. We got under sail about seven p.m. and saw lights +several times in the night, which we supposed to be false fires +in the boats of our consorts. In the morning of the 27th at +day-break, we saw three sail to windward, but so far distant that +it was nine o'clock before we could make out which were our +consorts and which the chase. At this time we could see the +Duchess and the chase near together, and the Marquis standing to +them with all the sail she could carry. We also made all the sail +we could, but being three or four leagues to leeward, and having +a very scant wind, we made little way. At noon they bore S.E. +from us, being still three leagues right to windward. In the +afternoon we observed the Marquis get up with the chase, and +engage her pretty briskly; but soon fell to leeward out of cannon +shot, where she lay a considerable time, which made us conclude +that she was somehow disabled.</p> + +<p>I sent away my pinnace well manned, with orders to dog the +chase all night, making signals with false fires that she might +not escape us; but before our boat could get up to them, the +Marquis made sail again towards the chase, and went to it again +briskly for more than four glasses. At this time we saw the +Duchess steer ahead to windward, clear of the enemy, as I +supposed to stop her leaks or repair her rigging. Meanwhile the +Marquis kept the enemy in play, till the Duchess again bore down, +when each fired a broadside or two, and left off because it grew +dark. They then bore south of us in the Duke, which was right to +windward, distant about two leagues; and about midnight our boat +came to us, having made false fires, which we answered. Our +people had been on board both the Duchess and Marquis, the former +of which had her foremast much disabled, the ring of an anchor +shot away, one man killed and several wounded, having also +received several shots in her upper works and one in her +powder-room, but all stopt. The Duchess had engaged the enemy by +herself the night before, which was what we took to be false +fires, being too distant to hear the guns. At that time they +could perceive the enemy to be in great disorder, her guns not +being all mounted, and neither her nettings nor close quarters in +order; so that, if it had been my good fortune in the Duke to +have gone with the Duchess, we all believed we might then have +carried this great ship by boarding; or, if the Duchess had taken +most of the men out of the Marquis, which did not sail well +enough to come up to her assistance in time, she alone might have +taken her by boarding at once, before the Spaniards had +experienced our strength, and become afterwards so well provided +as encouraged them to be driving, giving us every opportunity to +board them if we pleased.</p> + +<p>Captain Cooke sent me word that he had nearly fired away all +his powder and shot, but had escaped well in masts, rigging, and +men; wherefore I sent him three barrels of powder and a +proportion of shot; and I also sent Lieutenant Fry to consult +with our consorts how we might best engage the enemy next +morning. All this day and the ensuing night the chase made +signals to us in the Duke, thinking us her consort, which we had +already taken; and after dark she edged down towards us, +otherwise I should not have been up with her next day, having +very little wind and that against us. In the morning of the 28th, +as soon as it was day, the wind veered at once, on which we put +our ship about, and the chase fired first upon the Duchess, which +was nearest her in consequence of the change of wind. The Duchess +returned the fire briskly; and we in the Duke stood as near as we +possibly could, firing our guns as we could bring them to bear +upon the enemy. At this time the Duchess was athwart her hawse, +firing very fast, and such of her shot as missed the enemy flew +over us and between our masts, so that we ran the risk of +receiving more harm from the Duchess than the enemy, if we had +lain on her quarter and across her stern, which was my intention. +We therefore took our station close along side, board and board, +where we kept plying her with round shot only, using neither +barshot nor grape, as her sides were too thick for these, and no +men appeared in sight.</p> + +<p>She lay driving, as we did also close aboard of her, the enemy +keeping to their close quarters, so that we never fired our small +arms unless when we saw a man appear, or a port open, and then we +fired as quick as possible. We continued thus for four glasses, +about which time we received a shot in our main-mast which much +disabled it. Soon after this, the Duchess and we, still both +firing, came back close under the enemy, and had like to have +fallen on board of her, so that we could make little use of our +guns. We then fell astern in our birth alongside, and at this +time the enemy threw a fire-ball into the Duke from one of her +tops, which blew up a chest of loaded arms and cartouch-boxes on +our quarter-deck, and several cartridges in our steerage, by +which Mr Vanburgh, the agent of our owners, and a Dutchman, were +very much burnt; and it might have done us much more damage if it +had not been soon extinguished. After getting clear, the Duchess +stood in for the shore, where she lay braced to, mending her +rigging. The Marquis fired several shots, but to little purpose, +as her guns were small. We continued close aboard for some time +after the Duchess drew off; till at last we received a second +shot in our main-mast, not far from the other, which rent it +miserably; insomuch that the mast settled towards the wound, and +threatened to come by the board. Our rigging also being much +shattered, we sheered off and brought to, making a signal to our +consorts for a consultation; and in the interim got ordinary +fishes up to support our main-mast as well as we could.</p> + +<p>Captains Courtney and Cooke, with other officers, came aboard +the Duke, in obedience to the signal, when we took the condition +of our three ships into consideration. Their masts and rigging +were much damaged, and we had no means of procuring any repairs. +If we again engaged the enemy, we could not propose to do any +more than we had done already, which evidently had not done her +much harm, as we could perceive that few of our shots penetrated +her sides to any purpose, and our small arms availed still less, +as not one of their men were to be seen above board. Our +main-mast was so badly wounded that the least additional injury +would bring it down, and the fore-mast of the Duchess was in as +bad a state. The fall of these masts might bring down others, and +we should then lie perfect butts for the enemy to batter at, and +his heavy guns might easily sink us. If we should attempt to +carry her by boarding, we must necessarily run the risk of losing +many of our men, with little prospect of success, as they had +above treble our number to oppose us, not having now in all our +three ships above 120 men fit for boarding, and these weak, as we +had been long short of provisions. If, therefore, we attempted to +board and were beaten off, leaving any of our men behind, the +enemy would learn our strength, or weakness rather, and might go +to the harbour and retake our prize, in spite of every thing we +could do to hinder. Our ammunition also was now very short, and +we had only, enough to engage for a few glasses longer. All these +circumstances being duly considered, together with the difficulty +of procuring masts, and the time and provisions we must spend +before we could get them fitted we resolved to desist from any +farther attempt upon the enemy, since our battering her signified +little, and we had not sufficient strength to carry her by +boarding. We determined therefore to keep her company till night, +and then to lose her, after which to make the best of our way to +the harbour where we had left our prize, to secure her.</p> + +<p>We had engaged this ship first and last about seven glasses, +during which we in the Duke had eleven men wounded, three of whom +were scorched with gun-powder. I was again unfortunately wounded +by a splinter in my left foot, just before the arms chest was +blown up on the quarter-deck; and so severely that I had to lie +on my back in great pain, being unable to stand. Part of my +heel-bone was struck out, and all the foot just under the ankle +cut above half through, my wound bleeding very much before it +could be stopped and dressed, by which I was much weakened. In +the Duchess above twenty men were killed and wounded, one of the +slain and three of the wounded belonging to my ship, which had +been lent when I was left in the harbour. The Marquis had none +killed or wounded, but two of her men were scorched by +gun-powder. The enemy was the <i>Vigoniae</i>, a brave and lofty +new ship, admiral of Manilla, and this her first voyage. She was +calculated to carry 60 guns, and had above 40 mounted, with as +many pattereroes, all brass, and, as we were informed, had a +complement of 450 men, of whom 150 were Europeans, besides +passengers. We were told also that several of her crew had +formerly been pirates, who had all their wealth on board, and +were resolved to defend it to the last extremity. The gunner was +said to be a very expert man, and had provided extraordinarily +for defence, which enabled them to make a desperate resistance; +and they had filled all her sides between the guns with bales of +soft goods, to secure the men.</p> + +<p>During the whole action she kept the Spanish flag flying at +her mast-head. We could observe that we had shattered her sails +and rigging very much, and had slain two men in her tops, besides +bringing down her mizen-yard; but this was all the visible damage +we had done them, though we certainly placed 500 round shot in +her hull, which were six-pounders. These large ships are built at +Manilla of excellent timber, which does not splinter, and their +sides are much thicker and stronger than those of the ships built +in Europe. Thus ended our attempt on the biggest Manilla ship, +which I have heard related in so many ways at home, that I have +thought it necessary to give a very particular account of the +action, as I find it set down in my journal. Generally speaking, +the ships from Manilla are much richer than the prize we had +taken; for she had waited a long time for the Chinese junks to +bring silks, which not arriving, she came away with her cargo +made out by means of abundance of coarse goods. Several of the +prisoners assured me that a Manilla ship was commonly worth ten +millions of dollars; so that, if it had not been for the +accidental non-arrival of the junks from China that season, we +had gotten an extraordinarily rich prize. After my return to +Europe, I met a sailor in Holland who had been in the large ship +when we engaged her, and who communicated to me a reason why we +could not have taken her at all events. Her gunner kept +constantly in the powder-room, and declared that he had taken the +sacrament to blow up the ship if we had boarded her, which +accordingly made the men exceedingly resolute in her defence. I +the more readily gave credit to what this man told me, as he gave +a regular and circumstantial account of the engagement, +conformable to what I have given from my journal.</p> + +<p>It is hardly to be doubted that we might have set this great +ship on fire, by converting one of our ships into a fireship for +that purpose: But this was objected to by all our officers, +because we had goods of value on board all our ships. The enemy +on this occasion was the better provided for us, having heard at +Manilla, through our British settlements in India, that two small +ships had been fitted out at Bristol for an expedition into the +South Sea, and of which Captain Dampier was pilot. On this +account it was that they had so many Europeans on board the great +ship, most of whom had all their wealth along with them, for +which they would fight to the utmost; and it having been agreed +to pay no freight on the gun-decks, they had filled up all the +spaces between the guns with bales of goods, to secure the men. +The two ships were to have joined at Cape Lucas, expecting to +meet us off Cape Corientes or Navidad.</p> + +<p>We returned again into our port on the coast of California on +the 1st January, 1710, and being resolved to make as quick +dispatch as possible for our passage to the East Indies, we +immediately parted with our prisoners, giving them the bark with +a sufficiency of water and provisions to carry them to Acapulco. +We then occupied ourselves to the 7th in refitting and laying in +a stock of wood and water; and had much satisfaction in finding +as much bread in our prize as might serve for our long run to +Guam, with the aid of the scanty remains of our old stock. After +a long disputatious negotiation, it was settled that Mr Fry and +Mr Stratton were to take charge of our prize, which we named the +Bachelor, though under Captain Dover, but they were not to be +contradicted by him in the business, as his business was to see +that nothing was done in her contrary to the interest of our +owners and ships companies, he being in the nature of agent, only +with the title of chief captain. At the same time, we put on +board of this ship 35 men from the Duke, 25 from the Duchess, and +13 from the Marquis, making in all 73 men, which, with 36 Manilla +Indians, called <i>Las-Cars</i>, and some other prisoners we +still had remaining, made up her complement to 115 men.</p> + +<p>SECTION III</p> + +<p><i>Sequel of the Voyage, from California, by Way of the East +Indies, to England</i>.</p> + +<p>WE weighed anchor on the 10th January, 1710, from Porta +Leguro, on the coast of California, but were becalmed under the +shore till the afternoon of the 12th, when a breeze sprang up +which soon carried us out of sight of land. Being very slenderly +provided, we were forced to allow only a pound and a half of +flour, and one small piece of beef, to five men in a mess, +together with three pints of water a man, for twenty-four hours, +to serve both as drink and for dressing their victuals. We also +lowered ten of our guns into the hold, to ease our ship. On the +16th the Bachelor made a signal that she could spare us some +additional bread, having discovered a considerable store of bread +and sweet-meats, though very little flesh meat. Accordingly, we +in the Duke had a thousand weight of bread for our share, the +Duchess had as much, and the Marquis five hundred weight; and in +return we sent them two casks of flour, one of English beef; and +one of pork, as they had only left forty-five days provisions of +flesh. We now agreed to proceed in a W.S.W. course till we +reached the latitude of 13° N. and to keep in that parallel +till we should make the island of Guam, being informed by our +Spanish pilot that the parallel of 14° was dangerous, by +reason of certain islands and shoals, on which a Spanish ship had +been lost some time ago.</p> + +<p>On the 11th March we had sight both of <i>Guam</i> and +<i>Serpana,</i> the former bearing W.S.W. five leagues off, and +the latter N.N.W. seven leagues. The Spaniards say there is a +great shoal between these islands, but nearest to Serpana. While +running along the shore of Guam there came several flying proas +to look at us, but run past with great swiftness, and none of the +people would venture on board. The necessity of our stopping at +this island for a supply of provisions was very great, our sea +store being almost exhausted, and what remained being in a very +ordinary condition, especially our bread and flour, of which we +had not enough for fourteen days, even at the shortest allowance. +In order to procure provisions readily, we endeavoured to get +some of the natives on board from the proas, that we might detain +them as hostages, in case of having to send any of our men to the +governor. While turning into the harbour under Spanish colours, +one of the proas came under our stern, in which were two +Spaniards, who came on board in consequence of being assured that +we were friends. Soon after we sent a respectful letter to the +governor, to which we next day received a civil answer, and a +generous offer of any thing we needed that the island could +supply. Several of our officers went ashore to wait upon the +governor on the 16th, and were well received and elegantly +entertained; making the governor a present of two negro boys +dressed in rich liveries, twenty yards of scarlet cloth, and six +pieces of cambric, with which he seemed to be much pleased, and +promised in return to give us every assistance in his power.</p> + +<p>Next day, accordingly, we had a large supply of provisions, +our share in the Duke being about sixty hogs, ninety-nine fowls, +twenty-four baskets of maize, fourteen bags of rice, forty-two +baskets of yams, and 800 cocoa-nuts. We afterwards got some +bullocks, fourteen to each ship, being small lean cattle, yet +gladly accepted, to which were afterwards added two cows and two +calves to each ship; and we made a handsome present to the deputy +governor, who was very active in getting our provisions +collected. Leaving Guam, we proposed to go for some way directly +west, to clear some islands that were in the way, and then to +steer for the S.E. part of Min-danao, and from thence the nearest +way to Ternate. In the afternoon of the 14th April we made land, +which bore from us W.N.W. ten leagues, and which we supposed to +be the N.E. part of Celebes. This day we saw three water-spouts, +one of which had like to have fallen on board the Marquis, but +the Duchess broke it before it reached her by firing two guns. On +the 18th May, we passed through between the high land of New +Guinea and the island of Gilolo, and on the 20th we made another +high island which we took to be Ceram, yet, notwithstanding the +skill and experience of Captain Dampier, we were at a loss to +know whether it were Ceram or Bouro. On the 24th, at noon, we +made our latitude 4° 30' S. and estimated our longitude at +237° 29' W. from London, and being in the latitude of the +southern part of Bouro,[229] we imputed our not seeing it to the +currents setting us to the westwards. We designed to have touched +at Amboina for refreshments, but the S.E. monsoon was already set +in, and we were out of hope of being able to reach that place. In +a consultation on the 25th, we resolved not to spend time in +searching for Bouro, and also to desist from attempting to go to +Amboina, and to make the best of our way for the Straits of +Bouton, where we hoped to get sufficient provisions to carry us +to Batavia. We got into a fine large bay in Bouton, where we sent +our pinnace on shore, which brought off some cocoa nuts, +reporting there were plenty to be had, and that the Malay +inhabitants seemed friendly.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 229: The south part of Bouro is only in +lat. 3° 50' S. and about 283° W. from Greenwich, or +London.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Up this bay we saw several houses and boats, and many of the +Malay natives walking about on the beach. We here sent our boats +for provisions and pilots while the ships turned up the bay +nearer to the town. On sounding frequently we could find no +ground, but the natives told us of a bank opposite the town on +which we might anchor. In the meantime abundance of people came +off to us, bringing wheat, cocoa-nuts, yams, potatoes, papaws, +hens, and several other kinds of birds, to truck for cloths, +knives, scissars, and toys. These people were to appearance very +civil, being Mahometans of middle stature and dark tawny +complexions, but their women somewhat clearer than the men. The +men that came off were all naked, except a cloth round their +middles, but some of the better sort had a sort of loose +waistcoat, and a piece of linen rolled round their heads, with a +cap of palm leaves to keep off the scorching rays of the sun. +Along the shore we saw several weirs for catching fish. In +turning up, the prize lost ground considerably, as the current +was strong against us, wherefore the Duchess fired a gun in the +evening to recall us and the Marquis, and which we ran out and +drove all night. The names of these two islands forming this bay +are <i>Cambava</i> and <i>Waushut</i>, being in lat. 5° 13' +S. and long 238° W. from London.[230] Being much in want of +water and provisions, we made another effort to get back to this +bay; and on the 30th, a proa came to us from the king of Bouton, +having a noble on board without either shoes or stockings, and a +pilot to carry us up to the town. He brought each commander a +piece of striped Bouton cloth, a bottle of arrack, some baskets +of rice, and other articles, as presents from the king; yet the +first thing he said on coming aboard, was to ask us how we durst +venture to come here to anchor, without first having leave from +the great king of Bouton?</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 230: Cambaya, a considerable island to the +W. of Bouton, is in lat. 5° 20' S. and long. 237° 40' W. +from Greenwich, nearly in the situation pointed out in the +text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This proa brought us letters from our officers that had been +sent to wait upon the king, and to endeavour to procure +provisions, which stated that they had been well received, and +that the town in which the king resided was large and fortified, +and had several great guns. We sent back a present to the king by +his messenger, and five guns were fired by each of our ships at +his departure, with which he seemed well pleased. We wooded and +watered at the island of <i>Sampo,</i> and several proas came off +to us with fowls, maize, pompions, papaws, lemons, Guinea corn, +and other articles, which they trucked for knives, scissars, old +clothes, and the like. The people were civil, but sold every +thing very dear; and as our officers staid longer at the town +than was intended, we began to suspect they were detained, as the +Mahometans are very treacherous. We heard from them, however, +every day; and on the 5th Mr Connely came down, and told us there +were four lasts of rice coming down from the king, for which it +had been agreed to pay 600 dollars, and that Mr Vanburgh had been +detained in security of payment. The rice came next morning, and +was distributed equally among our four ships, some great men +coming along with it to receive the money. At this time also we +in our turn detained a Portuguese who came from the king, till +our boat should be allowed to return; and after this, provisions +became more plentiful and cheaper.</p> + +<p>The town of <i>Bouton</i> is built on the acclivity of a hill, +and on the top of the hill is a fort surrounded by an old stone +wall, on which some guns and pattereroes are placed. The king and +a considerable number of people dwell in this fort, in which a +market is held every day for the sale of provisions. The king has +five wives, besides several concubines, being attended by four +men carrying great canes with silver heads, who are called +<i>pury bassas,</i> and who seem to manage all his affairs. His +majesty goes always bare-footed and bare-legged, being for the +most part clad like a Dutch skipper, with a sort of green gauze +covering strewed with spangles over his long black hair; but when +he appears in state, he wears a long calico gown over his jacket, +and sits on a chair covered with red cloth. He is always attended +by a sergeant and six men armed with match-locks; besides three +others, one of whom wears a head-piece and carries a large drawn +scymitar, another has a shield, and a third a large fan. Four +slaves sit at his feet, one holding his betel box, another a +lighted match, the third his box of tobacco for smoking, and the +fourth a spitting bason. The petty kings and other great men sit +on his left hand and before him, every one attended by a slave, +and they chew betel or tobacco in his presence, sitting +cross-legged, and when they speak to him they lift their hands +joined to their foreheads.</p> + +<p>The town of Bouton is very populous, and beside it runs a fine +river, said to come from ten miles up the country. The tide ebbs +and flows a considerable way up this river, which has a bar at +its mouth, so that boats cannot go in or come out at low water. +At least 1500 boats belong to this river, fifty of which are war +proas, armed with pattereroes, and carrying forty or fifty men +each. Fifty islands are said to be tributary to this king, who +sends his proas once a year to gather their stated tribute, which +consists in slaves, every island giving him ten inhabitants out +of every hundred. There is one mosque, in Boutan, which is +supplied with priests from Mocha, the people being Mahometans. +They are great admirers of music, their houses are built on +posts, and their current money is Dutch coins and Spanish +dollars. On the 7th our pinnace returned with Mr Vanburgh and all +our people, having parted from his majesty on friendly terms, but +could not procure a pilot. We resolved, however, not to stay any +longer, but to trust to Providence for our future preservation: +wherefore we began to unmoor our ships, and dismissed our +Portuguese linguist.</p> + +<p>Next day, the 8th June, we made three islands to the north of +<i>Salayer.</i> On the 10th our pinnace came up with a small +vessel, the people on board of which said they were bound for the +Dutch factory of Macasser on the S.W. coast of Celebes. The +pinnace brought away the master of this vessel, who engaged to +pilot us through the Straits of Salayer and all the way to +Batavia, if we would keep it secret from the Dutch, and he sent +his vessel to lie in the narrowest part of the passage between +the islands, till such time as our ships came up. On the 14th we +passed the island of Madura, and on the 17th we made the high +land of Cheribon, which bore S.W. from us. This morning we saw a +great ship right ahead, to which I sent our pinnace for news. She +was a ship of Batavia of 600 tons and fifty guns, plying to some +of the Dutch factories for timber. Her people told us that we +were still thirty Dutch leagues from Batavia, but there was no +danger by the way, and they even supplied us with a large chart, +which proved of great use to us. Towards noon we made the land, +which was very low, but had regular soundings, by which we knew +how to sail in the night by means of the lead; in the afternoon +we saw the ships in the road of Batavia, being between thirty and +forty sail great and small; and at six in the evening we came to +anchor, in between six and seven fathoms, in the long-desired +port of Batavia, in lat 6° 10' S. and long. 252° 51' W. +from London.[231] We had here to alter our account of time, +having lost almost a day in going round the world so far in a +western course.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 231: The latitude in the text is +sufficiently accurate, but the longitude is about a degree short. +It ought to have been 253° 54' W. from +Greenwich--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After coming in sight of Batavia, and more especially after +some sloops or small vessels had been aboard of us, I found that +I was quite a stranger to the dispositions and humours of our +people, though I had sailed so long with them. A few days before +they were perpetually quarrelling, and a disputed lump of sugar +was quite sufficient to have occasioned a dispute. But now, there +was-nothing but hugging and shaking of hands, blessing their good +stars, and questioning if such a paradise existed on earth; and +all because they had arrack for eight-pence a gallon, and sugar +for a penny a pound. Yet next minute they were all by the ears, +disputing about who should put the ingredients together; for the +weather was so hot, and the ingredients so excessively cheap, +that a little labour was now a matter of great importance among +them.</p> + +<p>Soon after our arrival at Batavia we proceeded to refit our +ships, beginning with the Marquis; but on coming down to her +bends, we found both these and the stern and stern-port so rotten +and worm-eaten, that on a survey of carpenters she was found +incapable of being rendered fit for proceeding round the Cape of +Good Hope, on which we had to hire a vessel to take in her +loading. We then applied ourselves to refit the other ships, +which we did at the island of Horn, not being allowed to do so at +<i>Onrust</i>, where the Dutch clean and careen all their ships. +We hove down the Duke and Duchess and Bachelor, the sheathing of +which ships were very much worm-eaten in several places. In +heaving down, the Duchess sprung her fore-mast, which we replaced +by a new one. When the ships were refitted, we returned to +Batavia road, where we rigged three of them, and sold the +Marquis, after taking out all her goods and stores, and +distributing her officers and men into the others. During our +stay at Batavia, the weather was exceedingly hot, and many of our +officers and men fell sick, among whom I was one, the prevalent +disease being the flux, of which the master of the Duke and +gunner of the Duchess died, and several of our men. A young man +belonging to the Duchess, having ventured into the sea to swim, +had both his legs snapped off by a shark, and while endeavouring +to take him on board, the shark bit off the lower part of his +belly. We were allowed free access to the town and markets, yet +found it difficult to procure salt-meat, so that we had to kill +bullocks for ourselves, and pickled the flesh, taking out all the +bones. Arrack, rice, and fowls were very cheap, and we bought +beef for two <i>stivers</i>, or two-pence a pound.</p> + +<p>There are various descriptions of this famous city, yet, as +what I have to say may serve to exhibit a state of things as they +were when we were there, I flatter myself that the following +succinct account may neither be found useless nor disagreeable. +The city of Batavia is situated on the N.W. side of the famous +island of Java, in lat. 5° 50' S.[232] During the whole year +the east and west monsoons, or trade-winds, blow along shore; +besides which it is refreshed by the ordinary land and sea +breezes, which greatly cool the air, otherwise it would be +intolerably hot. The summer begins here in May, and continues +till the end of October, or beginning of November, during all +which period there is a constant breeze from the east, with a +clear serene sky. The winter commences in the end of October, or +beginning of November, with excessive rains, which sometimes +continue for three or four days without intermission. In December +the west-wind blows with such violence as to stop all navigation +on the coast of Java. In February the weather is changeable, with +frequent sudden thunder-gusts. They begin to sow in March; June +is the pleasantest month; and in September they gather in their +rice, and cut the sugar-canes. In October they have abundance of +fruits and flowers, together with plants and herbs in great +variety. Around the city there is an extensive fenny plain, which +has been greatly improved and cultivated by the Dutch; but to the +east it still remains encumbered by woods and marshes. The city +of Batavia is of a square form, surrounded by a strong wall, on +which are twenty-two bastions, and has a river running through it +into the sea. About the year 1700 there was a great earthquake in +Java, which overturned some part of the mountains in the interior +of the island, by which the course of the river was altered; and +since then the canals in Batavia and the neighbourhood have not +been nearly so commodious as formerly, nor has the entrance of +the river been so deep; and for want of a strong current to keep +it open, the Dutch have been obliged to employ a great machine to +preserve the navigation of the mouth of the river, so as to admit +small vessels into the canals which pervade the city. Batavia +lies in a bay in which there are seventeen or eighteen islands, +which so effectually protect it from the sea, that though large, +the road is very safe. The banks of the canals are raced on both +sides with stone quays, as far as the boom, which is shut up +every night, and guarded by soldiers. All the streets are in +straight lines, most of them being, above thirty feet broad on +both sides, besides the canals, and they are all paved with +bricks next the houses. All the streets are well-built and fully +inhabited, fifteen of them having canals for small vessels, +communicating with the main river, and shut up by booms, at which +they pay certain tolls for admission; and these canals are +crossed by fifty-six bridges, mostly of stone. There are numerous +country-seats around the city, most of them neat and well +contrived, with handsome fruit and flower gardens, ornamented +with fountains and statues; and vast quantities of cocoa-nut +trees planted in numerous groves, every where afford delightful +shade. Batavia has many fine buildings, particularly the +Cross-church, which is handsomely built of stone, and very neatly +fitted up within. There are two or three other churches for the +Dutch presbyterians, and two for the Portuguese catholics, who +are a mixed race, besides one church for the Malay protestants. +In the centre of the city is the town-house, handsomely built of +brick in form of a square, and two stories high. In this all the +courts are held, and all matters respecting the civil government +of the city are determined. There are also hospitals, +speir-houses, and rasp-houses, as in Amsterdam, with many other +public buildings, not inferior to those of most European +cities.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 232: The latitude of Batavia is 6° 15' +S. and its longitude 106° 7' E. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Chinese are very numerous, and carry on the greatest trade +here, farming most of the excise and customs, being allowed to +live according to their own laws, and to exercise their +idolatrous worship. They have a chief of their own nation, who +manages their affairs with the company, by which they are allowed +great privileges, having even a representative in the council, +who has a vote when any of their nation is tried for his life. +These high privileges are only allowed to such of the Chinese as +are domicilled here, all others being only permitted to remain +six months in the city, or on the island of Java. The Chinese +have also a large hospital for their sick and aged, and manage +its funds so well, that a destitute person of that nation is +never to be seen on the streets.</p> + +<p>The Dutch women have here much greater privileges than in +Holland, or any where else; as on even slight occasions they can +procure divorces from their husbands, sharing the estate between +them. A lawyer at this place told me, that he has known, out of +fifty-eight causes depending at one time before the +council-chamber, fifty-two of them for divorces. Great numbers of +native criminals are chained in pairs, and kept to hard labour +under a guard, in cleaning the canals and ditches of the city, or +in other public works. The castle of Batavia is quadrangular, +having four bastions connected by curtains, all faced with white +stone, and provided with watch-houses. Here the Dutch +governor-general of India, and most of the members of the council +of the Indies reside, the governor's palace being large, and +well-built of brick. In this palace is the council-chamber, with +the secretary's office, and chamber of accounts. The garrison +usually consists of 1000 men; but the soldiers are generally but +poorly appointed, except the governor's guards, who have large +privileges, and make a fine appearance.</p> + +<p>The governor-general lives in as great splendour as if he were +a king, being attended by a troop of horse-guards, and a company +of halberdeers, in uniforms of yellow sattin, richly adorned with +silver-lace and fringes, which attend his coach when he appears +abroad. His lady also is attended by guards and a splendid +retinue. The governor is chosen only for three years, from the +twenty-four counsellors, called the <i>Radts</i> of India, twelve +of whom must always reside in Batavia. Their soldiers are well +trained, and a company is always on duty at each of the gates of +the city and citadel; and there are between seven and eight +thousand disciplined Europeans in and about the city, who can be +assembled in readiness for action on a short warning.</p> + +<p>Besides Europeans and Chinese, there are many Malays in +Batavia, and other strangers from almost every country in, India. +The Javanese, or ancient natives, are very numerous, and are said +to be a proud barbarous people. They are of dark complexions, +with flat faces, thin, short, black hair, large eyebrows, and +prominent cheeks. The men are strong-limbed, but the women small. +The men wear a calico wrapper, three or four times folded round +their bodies; and the women are clothed from their arm-pits to +their knees. They usually have two or three wives, besides +concubines; and the Dutch say that they are much addicted to +lying and stealing. The Javans who inhabit the coast are mostly +Mahometans; but those living in the interior are still pagans. +The women are not so tawny as the men, and many of them are +handsome; but they are generally amorous, and unfaithful to their +husbands, and are apt to deal in poisoning, which they manage +with much art.</p> + +<p>Batavia is very populous, but not above a sixth part of the +inhabitants are Dutch. The Chinese here are very numerous; and +the Dutch acknowledge that they are more industrious and acute +traders than themselves. They are much, encouraged, because of +the great trade carried on by them, and the great rents they pay +for their shops, besides large taxes, and from sixteen to thirty +per cent. interest for money, which they frequently borrow from +the Dutch. I was told, that there were about 80,000 Chinese in +and about Batavia, who pay a capitation-tax of a dollar each per +month for liberty to wear their hair, which is not permitted in +their own country ever since the Tartar conquest. There generally +come here every year from China, fourteen or sixteen large +flat-bottomed junks, of from three to five hundred tons burden. +The merchants come along with their goods, which are lodged in +different partitions in the vessels, as in separate warehouses, +for each of which they pay a certain price, and not for the +weight or measure of the cargo, as with us, so that each merchant +fills up his own division as they please. They come here with the +easterly monsoon, usually arriving in November or December, and +go away again for China in the beginning of June. By means of +these junks the Dutch have all kinds of Chinese commodities +brought to them, and at a cheaper rate than they could bring them +in their own vessels.</p> + +<p>Batavia is the metropolis of the Dutch trade and settlements +in India, and is well situated for the spice trade, which they +have entirely in their own hands. There are seldom less than +twenty sail of Dutch ships at Batavia, carrying from thirty to +fifty and sixty guns each. Abraham van Ribeck was +governor-general when we were there. His predecessor, as I was +informed, had war with the natives of the island, who had like to +have ruined the settlement; but, by sowing divisions among the +native princes, he at length procured peace upon advantageous +conditions. This is one of the pleasantest cities I ever saw, +being more populous than Bristol, but not so large. They have +schools for teaching all necessary education, even for Latin and +Greek, and have a printing-house. There are many pleasant villas, +or country seats, about the city; and the adjacent country +abounds in rice, sugar-plantations, gardens, and orchards, with +corn and sugar-mills, and mills for making gunpowder. They have +also begun to plant coffee, which thrives well, so that they will +shortly be able to load a ship or two; but I was told it is not +so good as what comes from Arabia.</p> + +<p>We sailed from Batavia on the 11th October, 1710, and on the +19th came to anchor in a bay about a league W. from Java head, +and remained till the 28th, laying in wood and water. The 15th +December we made the land of southern Africa, in lat 34° 2' +S. And on the 18th we anchored in Table Bay in six fathoms, about +a mile from shore. We remained here till the 5th April, waiting +to go home with the Dutch fleet, and on that day fell down to +Penguin Island, whence we sailed on the 5th for Europe. On the +14th July we spoke a Dane bound for Ireland, who informed us that +a Dutch fleet of ten sail was cruizing for us off Shetland, which +squadron we joined next day. On the 28d we got sight of the coast +of Holland, and about eight p. m. came all safe to anchor in the +Texel, in six fathoms, about two miles off shore. In the +afternoon of the 24th I went up to Amsterdam, where I found +letters from our owners, directing us how to act as to our +passage from thence home. On the 30th we got some provisions from +Amsterdam. On the 22d August we weighed from the Texel, but the +wind being contrary, had to return next morning. We weighed again +on the 30th, and on the 1st October came to anchor in the Downs, +and on the 14th of that month got safe to <i>Eriff</i>, where we +ended our long and fatiguing voyage.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>It appears, by incidental information in Harris, I. 198, That +the outfit of this voyage did not exceed £14,000 or +£15,000, and that its gross profits amounted to +£170,000, half of which belonged to the owners; so that +they had £85,000 to divide, or a clear profit of £466 +13s. 4d. <i>per centum,</i> besides the value of the ships and +stores.--E.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-11" id="chapter4-11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY CAPTAIN JOHN CLIPPERTON, IN +1719-1722.[233]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>About the beginning of 1718, some English merchants resolved +to fit out two ships for a cruizing voyage to the South Sea, in +hopes of having equal success with the expedition under Woods +Rogers, and provided two fine ships, the Speedwell and Success, +every way fit for the purpose. But as the war which was expected +between Great Britain and Spain did not take place so soon as was +expected, they applied for commissions from the Emperor Charles +VI. who was then at war with Philip V. King of Spain. Captain +George Shelvocke, who had served as a lieutenant in the royal +navy, was accordingly sent with the Speedwell to Ostend, there to +wait for the imperial commissions, and to receive certain Flemish +officers and seamen, together with as much wine and brandy as +might serve both ships during their long voyage, being cheaper +there than in England. This was in November 1718, and both to +shew respect to the imperial court, and to have the appearance of +a German expedition, the names of the ships were changed to the +Prince Eugene and the Staremberg.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 233: Harris, I. 184.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having taken on board six Flemish officers and ninety men, +Captain Shelvocke sailed from Ostend for the Downs, where the +other ship had waited for him some time. War having begun between +Great Britain and Spain, and finding that the Flemings and +Englishmen did not agree, the owners laid aside all thoughts of +using the imperial commission, and to send back all their Flemish +officers and men to Flanders, with an allowance of two months +wages, and procured a commission from George I. restoring the +original names of their ships. The Speedwell carried twenty-four +guns and 106 men, and the Success thirty-six guns and 180 men; +the former commanded by Captain George Shelvocke, who was to have +had the chief command in the expedition, and the other by Captain +John Clipperton, who had formerly sailed with Dampier as mate, +and of whose adventures after his separation from Dampier, an +account has been already given.</p> + +<p>In consequence of some change of circumstances, perhaps owing +to some improper conduct when in Flanders, the proprietors now +took the chief command from Shelvocke, and conferred it upon +Clipperton, a man of a blunt, rough, and free-speaking +disposition, but of a strict regard to his duty and rigid +honesty. Though somewhat passionate, he was soon appeased, and +ever ready to repair any injury he had done when heated with +anger, and had much justice and humanity in his nature. Under +Captain Shelvocke in the Speedwell, Simon Hately was appointed +second captain; he who had formerly lost company with Woods +Rogers among the Gallapagos islands, and had remained a +considerable time prisoner among the Spaniards.</p> + +<p>The instructions for this voyage from the owners were, that +they were to proceed in the first place for Plymouth, whence they +were to sail with the first fair wind for Cape Horn or the +Straits of Magellan, as was found most convenient for their +passage into the South Sea. They were then to cruize on the +coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, and to endeavour, if possible, +to meet and capture the Manilla ship. To prevent all disputes and +disorders, they were enjoined to be careful above all things not +to separate from each other, and to undertake nothing of +importance without holding a council of officers, stating the +question to be debated in writing, and drawing up the resolution +in writing, with the reasons on which they were grounded, which +were to be signed by all the officers. All these precautions +proved in a great measure useless, as the expedition wore an +unfortunate aspect from the very beginning. The ships were forced +to remain three months at Plymouth, waiting for a wind; in which +time every thing fell into confusion, and factions were formed, +in which the crews of both ships were involved, from the captains +down to the cabin boys. Captain Shelvocke highly resented the +affront offered him in being deprived of the chief command; and +Captain Clipperton, knowing the other's resentment, and being a +boisterous man of strong passions which he could not conceal, +there was nothing but debates and disputes. Every post carried +complaints to the proprietors, and brought down instructions, +reproofs, and exhortations to concord. It had been fortunate for +the proprietors, if they had removed one or both of the +commanders; but every one had too much concern to retain his +friend in post, so that private views proved the cause of public +ruin.--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage, from England to Juan +Fernandez</i>.</p> + +<p>Having at length a fair wind, the two ships sailed in company +from Plymouth on the 13th February, 1719. It singularly happened +that the Speedwell had still on board the whole stock of wine, +brandy, and other liquors, designed for the supply of both ships. +On the 19th at night, there arose a violent storm, and on the +20th the storm abated about two in the afternoon, when Captain +Clipperton in the Success made sail, steering S. by E. while +Captain Shelvocke in the Speedwell bore away N.W. So that they +never again saw each other, till they afterwards met by mere +accident in the South Sea.</p> + +<p>Being now at sea without his consort, and very indifferently +provided, Captain Clipperton found himself under the necessity of +using a discretionary power of dispensing in some respect from +his instructions; but which freedom he rarely exercised, and then +with the utmost caution. In all essential points he carefully +complied with the instructions, constantly consulting with his +officers, and doing his utmost to prosecute his voyage with +effect. The first place of rendezvous appointed in case of +separation was the Canaries, for which he sailed with such +expedition that he arrived there on the 6th of March. Having +taken in refreshments there, for which he had much occasion, as +all his liquors were in the Speedwell, Clipperton cruized on that +station for ten days, as directed by his instructions, but not +meeting his consort, he resolved to proceed to the next place +appointed for that purpose, the Cape de Verd islands.</p> + +<p>The Canary Islands, or <i>Islands of Dogs</i>, so named by the +Spaniards when discovered by them in 1402, because they found +here a great number of these animals, were known to the ancients +by the name of the Fortunate Islands, because of their fertility +and the excellent temperature of their air. They are seven in +number, Lancerota, Fuerteventura, Grand Canary, Teneriffe, +Geomero, Hiero or Ferro, and Palma. <i>Grand Canary</i> is far +distant from the others, and contains 9000 inhabitants, being the +seat of the bishop, the inquisition, and the royal council which +governs all the seven islands. In Teneriffe is the famous +mountain called <i>Terraira,</i> or the Peak of Teneriff, +supposed to be the highest in the world, and which may be +distinctly seen at the distance of sixty leagues. There is no +reaching the top of this mountain except in July and August, +because covered at all other times with snow, which is never to +be seen at other places of that island, nor in the other six, at +any season of the year. It requires three days journey to reach +the summit of the peak, whence all the Canary islands may be +seen, though some of them are sixty leagues distant. <i>Hiero</i> +or <i>Ferro</i> is one of the largest islands in this group, but +is very barren, and so dry that no fresh water is to be found in +it, except in some few places by the sea, very troublesome and +even dangerous to get it from. "But, to remedy this +inconvenience, Providence as supplied a most extraordinary +substitute, as there grows almost in every place a sort of tree +of considerable size, incomparably thick of branches and leaves, +the latter being long and narrow, always green and lively. This +tree is always covered by a little cloud hanging over it, which +wets the leaves as if by a perpetual dew, so that fine clear +water continually trickles down from them into little pails set +below to catch it as it falls, and which is in such abundant +quantity as amply to supply the inhabitants and their +cattle."[234]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 234: This strange story seems entirely +fabulous.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>These islands are generally fertile, and abound with all kinds +of provisions, as cattle, grain, honey, wax, sugar, cheese, and +skins. The wine of this country is strong and well-flavoured, and +is exported to most parts of the world; and the Spanish ships +bound for America usually stop at these islands to lay in a stock +of provisions. About 100 leagues to the west of these islands, +mariners are said to have frequently seen an island named <i>St +Baranura,</i> which they allege is all over green and very +pleasant, full of trees, and abounding in provisions, as also +that it is inhabited by Christians; but no person can tell what +sect or denomination they are of, nor what language they speak. +The Spanish inhabitants of the Canaries have often attempted to +go there, but could never find the way; whence some believe that +it is only an illusion or enchanted island, seen only at certain +times. Others allege a better reason, saying that it is small and +almost always concealed by clouds, and that ships are prevented +from coming near it by the strength of the currents. It is +certain however, that there is such an island, and at the +distance from the Canaries already mentioned.[235]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 235: This island of St Baranora, or St +Brandon, is merely imaginary.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Leaving Gomera on the 15th March, Clipperton came in sight of +St Vincent, one of the Cape de Verd islands, in the evening of +the 21st, and came to anchor in the bay next morning. He here +found a French ship, and the Diamond belonging to Bristol, taking +in a cargo of asses for Jamaica. Continuing here for ten days, in +hopes of meeting the Speedwell, but in vain, the crew of the +Success became much disheartened, so that Clipperton had much +difficulty in persuading them to persist in the enterprize. The +<i>Cape de Verd islands,</i> called <i>Salt islands</i> by the +Dutch, derive their name from Cape de Verd on the coast of +Africa. The sea which surrounds them is covered by a green herb, +called <i>Sergalso</i> or cresses by the Portuguese, resembling +water-cresses, and so thickly that hardly can the water be seen, +neither can ships make their way through it but with a stiff +gale. This herb produces berries, resembling white gooseberries, +but entirely tasteless. No one knows how this herb grows, as +there is no ground or land about the place where it is found +floating on the water, neither can it be supposed to come from +the bottom, as the sea is very deep, and is in many places quite +unfathomable. This sea-weed begins to be seen in the lat. of +34° N. where it is so thick that it seems as if islands, but +is not to be met with in any other part of the ocean.</p> + +<p>The <i>Cape de Verd islands</i>, when first discovered by the +Portuguese in 1572, were all desert and uninhabited, but they now +inhabit several of them. They are ten in number, St Jago, St +Lucia, St Vincent, St Antonio, St Nicolas, Ilha Blanca, Ilha de +Sal, Ilha de Maio, Ilha de Fogo, and Bonavista. They now afford +plenty of rice, flour, Tartarian wheat, oranges, lemons, citrons, +bananas, ananas or pine-apples, ignames, batatas, melons, +cucumbers, pompions, garden and wild figs, and several other +sorts of fruits. They have vineyards also, which produce ripe +grapes twice a year; and have abundance of cattle, both great and +small, but especially goats. The capital city is St Jago, in the +island of that name, in which resides the governor who commands +over all these islands under the King of Portugal. It is also the +residence of an archbishop, whose see extends over all these +islands, and over all the conquests of the Portuguese on this +side of the Cape of Good Hope. These islands afford good +convenience for ships on long voyages procuring a supply of fresh +water. On the east side of Maio there is a little river, and as +the island is uninhabited, there is nobody to hinder one from +taking it: There is also water to be had on St Antonio, where +also good refreshments may be had, of oranges, lemons, and other +fruits; and the Portuguese on this island are so few in number, +that they cannot prevent one from taking what they please.</p> + +<p>May the 29th having an observation, Clipperton found his +latitude to be 52° 15' S. being then off Cape <i>Virgin +Mary</i>, the northern point at the eastern entrance into the +straits of Magellan, distant from <i>Fuego</i>, one of the Cape +de Verd islands, 1580 leagues, the meridional distance being +36° 4' W.[236] Next day they entered the straits. Proceeding +onwards to Queen Elizabeth's island, the pinnace was sent off to +a fresh-water river on the main, which was found frozen up. They +saw large flocks of geese and ducks at this place, but they were +very shy. By some accident the surgeon's mate was left ashore at +this place by the boat, and when brought on board next morning he +was almost dead with the cold. They remained some time at Queen +Elizabeth's island, which is dry and mostly barren, yet they +found plenty of sallad herbs, which were of infinite service, the +crew being much afflicted by the scurvy. The principal herb was +<i>smallage</i> of extraordinary size, which they eat raw, or +boiled in their broth, and of which they brought away a +considerable quantity of juice in bottles. On the 14th June, the +empty water casks were sent ashore to be filled, and the +carpenters went to look out for a proper piece of timber for a +mizen-mast. They found abundance of wild fowl and shell fish on +shore, which were most welcome to all the company, as they found +their appetites to increase, while the necessity compelled the +enforcement of short allowance. They anchored on the 22d in a +fine bay, which they named <i>No-bottom Bay</i>, because of its +great depth of water. The trees here are lofty, and so loaded +with snow as to be a most astonishing sight. On the 29th there +came to them a canoe in which were two men, a woman, and a boy. +These were of middle stature, with dark complexions, broad, round +faces, and low features, with low foreheads, lank short black +hair, and no clothing except a piece of skin to cover their +middles. The most extraordinary circumstance about them, was a +fine streak round their wrists of an azure colour. They seem to +be very jealous of their women, as they would on no account +permit the woman who was along with them to come on board. +Clipperton ordered them bread and cheese, and a dram of brandy, +which last they refused to take, but they eat the bread and +cheese voraciously. They had a fire in the middle of their canoe, +which was made of the bark of trees sewed together, and they +brought with them some wild geese and ducks, which they exchanged +for knives. They had bows and arrows, together with some fishing +tackle, and went away after two hours stay, making signs that +they would return.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 236: The meridional distance between these +two stations is 49° 25' W. Mayo being in long. 28° 15', +and Cape Virgin Mary in long. 72° 40' both W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Next day the pinnace went ashore, and returned in the evening +with the Indian canoe filled with large muscles, which our people +bought from the Indians, for knives, bread, and other trifles. In +the beginning of July the weather was very moderate. Clipperton +found the savages in these straits by no means so mischievous as +they are usually represented, of which they had two remarkable +instances: As, on one occasion, one of the crew was on shore two +nights and a day, and was well used by the natives; and, on +another occasion, one of the natives being left accidentally all +night in the ship, the natives came for him next day without +fear; so that, if well treated, they do not seem to be +treacherous. In another canoe which came to the ship there were +several women, each having a necklace of five or six rows of +small shining shells, very nicely strung, resembling +mother-of-pearl. All this time the crew was very sickly, scarcely +a day passing in which one or more did not die, which was +generally attributed to the want of something comfortable to +drink in this rigorous climate, all the liquors intended for the +voyage having been left in the Speedwell. The weather was +sometimes fair and moderate for two or three days together, but +was continually varying, and perhaps for two or three days +following they had continual snow, rain, and sleet, with frequent +great flows of wind that were intolerably sharp and piercing. +William Pridham, the master-gunner, died on the 7th July, and was +buried ashore next day, having a strong, plank with an +inscription driven into the ground at the head of his grave.</p> + +<p>On the 20th July, Captain Mitchell and Lieutenant Davidson +went in the pinnace, furnished with all necessaries, in order to +make a discovery of a passage on the southern side of the +straits, through which a French tartan is said to have gone into +the South Sea in May, 1713, and to examine if there were any +anchorage beyond Cape <i>Quad</i>. The pinnace returned on the +29th, having found the passage, but so narrow that it was deemed +too hazardous. Their provisions falling short, they were forced +to return before they had satisfied themselves sufficiently; yet +they found several good bays for anchoring in, to the N.W. of +Cape <i>Quad</i>. They got a seal from some Indians, which they +broiled and eat, and said that it was as good as venison. On the +1st of August, Captain Mitchell and three other officers went a +second time to examine to look for the new passage. But, after +the strictest examination, they could not find that it led into +the South Sea, but only into an icy bay, and at all events was +too narrow for their ship. On the return of Captain Mitchell, it +was resolved to prosecute their way through the straits, which +they did with much difficulty, getting into the South Sea on the +18th of August, but in so weak and sickly a condition as to be +utterly incapable of attempting any enterprize for some time, +having been long on short allowance of only one piece of beef or +pork to a mess of six men. In pursuance, therefore, of his +instructions, Captain Clipperton bore away for the island of Juan +Fernandez, the third and last appointed place of rendezvous with +the Speedwell.</p> + +<p>The Success accordingly anchored at Juan Fernandez on the 7th +September, and search was made for any testimony of the Speedwell +having been there, but to no purpose. Captain Clipperton +resolved, in compliance with his instructions, to remain here, or +cruizing in the neighbourhood, for a month; and also had an +inscription cut on a conspicuous tree fronting the landing-place, +to the following purport: "<i>Captain John---- W. Magee, +1719</i>." This William Magee was surgeon of the Success, and +well known to Captain Shelvocke and all his company; and +Clipperton omitted his own name in the inscription, because he +had been formerly in the South Sea, and had been long a prisoner +among the Spaniards, for which reason he did not wish to give +them notice of his return into this sea. The sick were all landed +on the 8th, and every convenience afforded by the island made use +of to promote their recovery. The weather was very changeable all +the time of the Success continuing here, with much rain, and some +hard gales of wind. They took, however, a considerable number of +goats, which not only served them for present subsistence, but +enabled them to increase their sea store, as they had an +opportunity of salting a good many; for some French ships, that +had been at the island, had left a considerable quantity of salt +ready made. They likewise cleaned the ship's bottom, and took on +board a supply of wood and water. It was now evident that the +Success would have to act singly in these seas, as Clipperton was +fully of opinion that the Speedwell was lost, or at least gave +out so among the company, to prevent them from continually +cursing Shelvocke for running away with their liquors, which some +of the sick men did with their dying breaths.</p> + +<p>The beauty and fertility of this island, compared with the +dangers and difficulties unavoidable in the South Sea, tempted +four of the men to remain in the island, and they actually ran +away into the mountains. As it was very inconvenient to lose so +many good hands, Captain Clipperton took measures for recovering +them, but ineffectually. At last, a fortnight after their +desertion, and only the day before the ship was to leave the +island, two of them were caught by the goat-hunters and brought +aboard. They confessed that they had been hard put to it for the +first five days, being forced to subsist entirely on the +cabbage-trees, which are here in great plenty; but having +accidentally found some fire, left by the goat-hunters, it served +them in good stead, as it enabled them to cook their victuals. +That same evening they brought on board all the goats-flesh they +had salted, together with four casks of seal-oil, and every thing +else they had on shore. A cross was set up on shore, at the foot +of which a bottle was buried, containing a letter for Captain +Shelvocke, appointing another place of rendezvous, with certain +signals by which to know each other if they happened to meet at +sea.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings of the Success in the South Seas</i>.</p> + +<p>Clipperton left Juan Fernandez on the 7th October, leaving two +men behind, as successors to Governor Selkirk, but of whose +adventures we have no mention. He now steered his course to the +northwards, till in the parallel of Lima, where he proposed to +commence operations, though in a very indifferent condition, +having lost thirty men since passing the equator. On the 25th, +being in the latitude of Lima, they captured a snow of forty +tons, laden with sand and rubbish for manure, on board of which +were seven Indians and two negroes, their master having been left +sick on shore. The only thing she contained worth taking were two +jars full of eggs, two jars of treacle, and two dollars. Next day +they captured a ship of 150 tons, laden with timber from +Guayaquil, in which were two friars, sixteen Indians, and four +Negroes. On the 30th they took a ship of 400 tons, bound from +Panama to Lima, which had been taken by Captain Rogers at +Guayaquil ten years before. She had many passengers on board, and +a loading of considerable value. Another prize was taken on the +2d of November, being a vessel of seventy tons, on board of which +was the Countess of <i>Laguna</i> and several other passengers, +with a great sum of money, and 400 jars of wine and brandy, which +was very acceptable. Captain Clipperton desired the countess to +inform him, whether she thought proper to remain in the prize, or +to accept of such accommodations as he was able to give her in +the Success. She chose to continue in the prize, on which he sent +an officer of marines with a guard, to prevent her from being +molested, and with strict orders not to allow any person to enter +her cabin, except her own domestics. He also sent part of the +wine and brandy on board the other prizes, for the use of his +seamen who had charge of them.</p> + +<p>Although Captain Clipperton had now so many prizes, that above +a third of his company was detached to take charge of them, he +was still as eager to take more as if he had commanded a squadron +of men of war, instead of a single privateer weakly manned. On +the 12th November, a London-built pink of about 200 tons was +discovered at some distance, bound from Panama to Lima with a +cargo of woad, of very little value to Clipperton, yet he added +this to the number of his prizes. The master of this vessel, +being a shrewd fellow, soon saw the error Clipperton had fallen +into, and resolved to turn it to his advantage. Guessing by the +number of prizes already attending the English ship, that he +could not spare many men to take possession of his ship, and +having above a dozen passengers, he directed them to hide +themselves in the hold, along with a Frenchman who served as +boatswain, with orders to seize as many of the English as went +down below, assuring them that he with the ship's company would +be able to manage the rest. When this ship struck, Clipperton +sent Lieutenant Sergeantson with eight men to take possession of +her; who, on coming on board, ordered all he saw on deck into the +great cabin, at the door of which he placed a sentinel. Thinking +every thing was now secure, he ordered the topsails to be +hoisted, in order to stand down towards the Success; after which, +the men went down into the hold, to see what loading was in the +ship. On this the concealed passengers sallied out, knocked most +of them down, and the boatswain came behind Mr Sergeantson, whom +he knocked down likewise, and then bound all the Englishmen in +the hold. In the mean time, the crew in the great cabin, +Spaniards, Indians, and Negroes, secured the sentinel. Having +thus recovered possession of the ship, the Spanish captain +resolved on getting ashore at all events, in which design he ran +his ship among the rocks, where he with his crew and prisoners +were all in considerable danger. He then ordered all the English +prisoners to be unbound, and all got safe on shore, after which +Lieutenant Sergeantson and his men were all sent prisoners to +Lima.</p> + +<p>The viceroy was so much pleased with this hardy action of the +Spanish shipmaster, that he ordered a new vessel to be built for +him at Guayaquil, ordering all the traders in Peru to be taxed +for defraying the expence, as a reward for the service rendered +on this occasion to the public, and an encouragement for others +to behave in like manner. On the arrival of the prisoners at +Lima, they were all strictly examined, when one of them gave a +full account of every thing he knew, particularly of the two men +who remained on the island of Juan Fernandez, and of the letter +left in a bottle for the Speedwell, the consort of the Success. +On this information, a small vessel was fitted out and sent to +Juan Fernandez, with orders to fetch away the two men and the +bottle containing the signals, which was accordingly done.</p> + +<p>Perceiving on the 20th November, that the last-taken, prize +had been recovered by her crew, as on making the signal to tack, +she was seen to make all possible sail towards the land, Captain +Clipperton immediately suspected what had happened; and finding +it impossible to get up with her, he began to consider what was +best for him to do, to prevent the bad effects which might +reasonably be expected from her crew getting on shore and +communicating the alarm. Wherefore, he very prudently determined +to set all his Spanish prisoners at liberty, as well to save +provisions, which he could not very well spare, as that their +good usage from him might be speedily known, in hopes of the same +being returned to those of his men who had fallen into the hands +of the Spaniards.</p> + +<p>On the 24th we took another prize of about 200 tons, laden +with timber from Panama to Lima, having on board forty negroes +and thirty Spaniards, most of the last being passengers. On the +27th he came to anchor with all his prizes at the island of +Plata, where he began seriously to reflect how best to turn the +expedition to the profit of the owners, as well as of himself and +crew. He knew well that all the coast was now alarmed, and that +two men-of-war were fitting out on purpose to take him, one of +fifty and the other of thirty guns. He had no expectations of the +ships and goods he had taken being ransomed in that pan of the +world, and believed they would prove of little value if brought +home; and reflecting on what had formerly been proposed by +Captain Woods Rogers on a similar occasion, of sending a cargo of +such prize goods to Brazil, he resolved to try that experiment. +Accordingly, he fitted out the bark in which he had taken the +Countess de Laguna, armed her with eight guns, and gave her a +crew of thirteen Englishmen and ten negroes, with what provisions +and stores he could spare, calling her the <i>Chickly</i>. Into +this vessel he put a cargo of European commodities, valued at +upwards of ten thousand pounds, and on the 27th November, 1719, +he sailed for Brazil under the command of Captain Mitchell. As +soon as she was gone, he gave up his other prizes to the +Spaniards, taking out of them whatever he thought worth keeping, +and detaining one of the Spanish masters to serve him as pilot, +with all the negroes; after which he sailed from La Plata to +resume his cruize on his former station.</p> + +<p>The 12th December he took a vessel bound from Cherisse for +Panama with provisions, which employed the launch and pinnace of +the Success a whole day in bringing on board the flour and other +provisions out of the prize. Having got as much flour out of her +as they could well stow away in the Success, Clipperton ordered +the main-mast of the prize to be cut away, lest she should +overset, and then dismissed her. From the people of this prize, +they learnt that Lieutenant Sergeantson and his men had been +carried prisoners to Lima. On the 27th they anchored in +<i>Guanchaco</i> bay, where they found two ships at anchor, which +had been abandoned by their crews, and every thing taken out of +them, except some bread and a few jars of water. These ships were +set on fire. It was now resolved to bear away for the Gallapagos +islands for refreshments, and accordingly anchored in York road, +on the north side of the Duke of York's island, on the 9th +January, 1720, immediately under the equinoctial line. They here +found good water, scrubbed and cleaned their ship's bottom, and +after ten days proceeded to the northwards, in order to cruize on +the coast of Mexico. The circumstance of finding good water at +this place, sufficiently justifies Captain Cowley from the +aspersions thrown upon him by later writers, who allege that he +gave a fanciful and untrue account of these islands, as they had +not been able to find water or anchorage at such of them as they +tried.</p> + +<p>Having returned to the American coast, they fell in with a +ship on the 21st of January, which they took after a long chase. +This proved to be the Prince Eugene, on board of which was the +Marquis of <i>Villa Roche</i> and all his family, bound from +Panama, where he had been president, to Lima. This was the very +ship in which Captain Clipperton had been circumvented and taken +in his last voyage in these seas,[237] when he had been very +indifferently used by the marquis, who was now at his mercy, and +whom he used, notwithstanding, with all civility. On the 8th +March, a priest who was on board the prize, and the boatswain of +that ship, desired leave to go on shore at the island of +<i>Velas</i>,[238] which was granted on condition that they would +induce the inhabitants to bring some bullocks to the shore, to +exchange them for such goods as they might think proper to accept +in payment. This they promised, and on the 16th they returned +with four bullocks, together with some fowls and fruit as a +present to the marquis, but said their alcalde, or governor, +would on no account permit them to trade with the English. They +also learnt that Captain Mitchell had been ashore at this place, +and had shot some of their cattle, but on 200 men appearing under +arms, had been forced to retire. This story seemed the more +probable, as these people had some linen and other articles of +clothing belonging to Captain Mitchell's men. Next day some +letters from the marquis were intercepted, which were by no means +conformable to the strict honour to which the Spanish nobility +usually pretend, as they were meant to stir up the inhabitants of +Velas to surprise the men belonging to Captain Clipperton, and to +seize his boat when it went ashore for water. Upon this Captain +Clipperton confined the marquis for some days; yet allowed him +and his lady to go ashore on the 20th, leaving their only child +as an hostage; and soon after the prize was restored to her +captain.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 237: The circumstance here alluded to no +where appears in the narratives of any of the former +circumnavigations.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 238: Perhaps Velas point is here meant, in +lat. 10° 9' N. on the coast of that province of Mexico called +<i>Corta Rica</i>.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 14th April, the marquis and his lady came on board, +accompanied by the alcalde, and an agreement being made for their +ransom, the lady and child were sent ashore, and the marquis +remained as sole hostage. In the whole of this transaction, +Clipperton seems to have been outwitted by the marquis, who +lately broke his word, and by this the crew of the Success were +provoked to murmur against their captain for trusting him. On the +20th of April, the Success anchored in the Gulf of Amapala, or +Fouseca, in lat. 13° N. and not being able to water there, +repaired to the <i>Island of Tigers</i>,[239] where they procured +water with great ease. They went to the island of Gorgona, in +lat. 2° 53' N. for the same purpose, on the 4th June. On the +24th of that month they took a prize which had once been in their +hands before, now laden with timber and cocoa-nuts; and on the +11th August, anchored with their prize at the island of <i>Lobor +de la Mar</i>, in lat. 6° 95' S. where they set up tents on +shore, scrubbed and cleaned their ship's bottom, and took +whatever seemed of any value out of the prize.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 239: Perhaps the Isla del Cana, in lat. +8° 46' N. is here meant, or it may have been one of the +islands in the Gulf of Amapala.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>While here, a plot was entered into by the crew, for seizing +the captain and officers, whom they proposed to leave on the +island of Lobos, and then to run away with the ship; but this was +happily discovered on the 6th September, the two principal +ringleaders severely punished, and the rest pardoned. On the +17th, they took a fishing-boat with a considerable quantity of +well-cured and salt fish. On the 1st November they went into the +Bay of Conception, on the coast of Chili, in lat. 36° 35' S. +in chace of a vessel which outsailed them and escaped; whence +they bore away for Coquimbo, in lat. 29° 50' S. and took a +ship laden with sugar, tobacco, and cloth, on their passage +between these two places. On the 6th in the afternoon, on opening +the harbour of Coquimbo, they saw three men-of-war at anchor with +their topsails loose, which immediately slipped their cables and +stood after them. The Success hauled close upon a wind, as the +prize did likewise, on which the best sailing Spanish man-of-war +gave chase to the prize, which she soon came up with and took. +The two other ships crowded all sail after the Success, till +afternoon, when the biggest carried away her mizen-mast, on which +she fired a gun and stood in for the shore, which favoured the +escape of the Success.</p> + +<p>In the re-captured prize, they lost their third lieutenant, Mr +James Milne, with twelve men. The captain of the Spanish +man-of-war which took him, was the famous Don Blas de Lesso, who +was governor of Carthagena when that place was attacked by +Admiral Vernon. At first Don Blas treated Mr Milne very roughly, +being enraged at having missed taking the English privateer, and +had only retaken a Spanish prize, and in the first transport of +his passion struck Mr Milne over the head with the flat of his +sword. But on coming to himself he sent for Mr Milne, and +generously asked his pardon, and finding he had been stripped by +the soldiers, ordered him a new suit of clothes, and kept him +some time in his own ship. He afterwards procured his liberty at +Lima, paid his passage to Panama, giving him a jar of wine and +another of brandy for his sea-store, and put 200 dollars in his +pocket to carry him to England. This unlucky accident of losing +the prize revived the ill-humour among the crew of the Success, +who did not indeed enter into any new plot, but became much +dejected.</p> + +<p>On the 16th they gave chase to another ship, which, after +exchanging a few shots, bore away and left them. This was a +fortunate escape, as she was a ship of force commanded by one +Fitzgerald, which had been fitted out on purpose to take Captain +Shelvocke; but knowing this not to be the ship he was in search +of, and doubting her strength, had no great stomach to engage. +These repeated disappointments, as they broke the spirit of the +crew, had a very bad effect on Captain Clipperton, who now began +to take to drinking, which grew at last to such a pitch that he +was hardly ever quite sober; owing to which unhappy propensity he +committed many errors in his future proceedings.</p> + +<p>It was now determined to proceed to the northward in search of +plunder, as also to procure a supply of provisions, especially +flour, having expended all their stock of that article, and being +now reduced to three pounds of Indian corn for a mess of six men +per day. Having but indifferent fortune, and being in sight of +point <i>Helena</i> in lat. 2° 10' S. they resolved to bear +away for the Gallapagos islands, on the 27th November, having in +the first place set ashore the prisoners belonging to the vessel +in which Mr Milne was taken. In their passage to these islands, +they suspected an error in their log-line, which was found three +fathoms too short, making an error in their computation on this +run of about fifty-two miles. On the 4th of December they lost +their purser, Mr Fairman, and the same day found themselves near +the Gallapagos, being in lat. 0° 36' N. with a strong current +running to the S.W. against which they had to contend. On the 6th +the pinnace was sent to look out for an anchorage at one of the +islands, but returned without finding any, having seen many +tortoises on shore. Upon this the pinnace and yawl were sent out +to bring off some of these animals, and returned with sufficient +fish to serve the whole company for a day, but had been unable to +land for turtle, in consequence of a prodigious surf on the +shore. This island was a mere rock in lat. 0° 9' N. and the +ground all about it was foul, with soundings from fifty to eighty +fathoms. Leaving this island, they proceeded to another in the +S.W. but could find no anchorage. Being unwilling to lose more +time, they made the best of their way for the island of +<i>Cocos</i>,[240] where they hoped to procure fish, fowls, and +cocoa-nuts. On the 7th they saw several islands in the N.E. +through which they passed, and got clear of them all by the +9th,[241] but as the people daily fell sick, they grew very +apprehensive of the dangerous situation they might incur in case +of missing the island of which they were now in search. On the +17th they had the satisfaction of seeing the long-wished for +island in the N.W. at the distance of nine leagues; and on the +18th, after coming to anchor, all of them went on shore that +could be spared from the necessary duty of the ship, in order to +build a hut for the reception of the sick, who were then carried +on shore and comfortably lodged. They here had plenty of fish, +fowls, eggs, and cocoa-nuts, with other refreshments. The captain +here opened the last hogshead of brandy for the use of the +company, giving every man a dram daily as long as it lasted; and +on new-year's-day 1721, he allowed a gallon of strong beer to +every mess. By means of abundant nourishing food and much ease, +the crew began to recover their health and spirits, and were soon +able to take on board wood and water, though with considerable +difficulty, as a very heavy swell set in from the northwards at +the full and change of the moon, so that they had to wait till +after the spring-tides were over, before they were able to get +any thing off.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 240: The island of Cocos, nearly north from +the Gallapagos, is in lat. 5° 20' N. and long. 87° 53' W. +from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 241: These were probably some of the most +northerly of the Gallapagos.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 17th January, 1721, Captain Clipperton made the +necessary dispositions for sailing, but it was three days before +he could get his people on board, and then no less than eleven of +them were missing, three Englishmen and eight negroes. It is not +easy to conceive what could have induced the former to hazard +themselves at this island, so far removed from the continent, and +so little likely to be frequented by ships, and whence they had +so very small a chance of ever getting off. It must be attributed +to their dread of the dangers and fatigues to which they had been +continually exposed, and to their living almost continually on +short allowance, whereas they were here sure of plenty of +provisions, with no other fatigue but the trouble of procuring +and dressing them. Perhaps they might have received some +assurance from the marquis, of having a ship sent for them when +he obtained his liberty, which was at least a hazardous +contingency; and there is great reason to doubt was never +performed.</p> + +<p>Leaving the island of Cocos on the 20th, they arrived on the +coast of Mexico on the 25th, when they met with an extraordinary +adventure. Discovering a sail about seven in the evening, they +gave chase and sent their pinnace to board, which came up with +the chase about eleven. On the return of the pinnace, her people +reported that this was a Spanish ship named the Jesu Maria, but +now in possession of Captain Shelvocke, who had now only forty of +his men remaining, all the rest being dead or dispersed. He said +that he had lost the Speedwell at the island of Juan Fernandez, +where he staid five months, and built a bark out of the wreck of +the Speedwell. Putting to sea in this bark, he had coasted along +Chili and Peru, meeting several ships, but could not take any, +till at length he captured the Jesu Maria at Pisco near Lima. +Shelvocke's people differed much in their stories, but it +appeared that there was no regular command among them; and, as +used to be the practice in the buccaneers, they had chosen a +quarter-master, every thing being carried by a majority of votes, +being all equal, and snared every thing among themselves, +contrary to the articles of agreement with their owners.</p> + +<p>On the 27th, Mr Clipperton sent for the purser of the Jesu +Maria, who gave but a dark account of their proceedings, only +that he was not allowed to take any account of the treasure for +the owners. Captain Shelvocke afterwards came on board the +Success, accompanied by Mr Dod, his lieutenant of marines, who +proposed to remain in the Success, having been very ill used by +the other crew for his attachment to the interest of the owners, +at least so he said, and was credited by Captain Clipperton and +his officers. Next day, Shelvocke sent on board the Success six +chests of pitch and <i>dammer</i>, two barrels of tar, and six +slabs of copper; and Captain Clipperton gave him +<i>twenty-four</i> quarter deck guns,[242] some round shot, a +compass, and a few other necessaries. Shelvocke's people laid out +a great deal of money with the crew of the Success, in the +purchase of clothes, shoes, hats, and other necessaries; and +there remained with them two of Shelvocke's officers, Mr Hendric +the purser, and Mr Dod the lieutenant of marines.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 242: This must be a gross error, as the +Success originally carried only <i>twenty-four</i> guns; and +accordingly, in the subsequent account of the circumnavigation of +Shelvocke, only two quarter-deck guns are +mentioned.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Still keeping to the northward on the coast of Mexico, the +Success afterwards saw the Jesu Maria several times; and at +length, in the beginning of March, it was resolved to propose a +conjunct attempt on the Manilla ship on her way to Acapulco. +Accordingly on the 13th March, in a general consultation by the +officers of both ships, it was agreed to make the attempt +jointly, both ships boarding her at once, as the only chance of +taking her. On the 15th, in another consultation, Captain +Clipperton and his officers agreed to certain articles, which +were sent to Captain Shelvocke, proposing, if he and his crew +would refund all the money they had shared among themselves, +contrary to the articles agreed upon with the owners, and put the +whole into a joint stock, thus all their faults should be +forgiven, both companies uniting, and should then proceed +together to cruise for the Acapulco ship. This proposal was very +indifferently received by Shelvocke and his men, who did not care +to part with what they possessed, and declined to give any answer +to this proposal. Perceiving, therefore, that nothing good was to +be expected from their quondam consort, considering also that the +usual time of the Manilla ship arriving at Acapulco was already +elapsed, that most of their remaining men were weak and sickly, +and that they were only victualled for five months at their +present short allowance, Captain Clipperton and his men thought +it was now proper for them to proceed for the East Indies without +loss of time, in order to preserve what little they had got for +their owners and themselves. It was therefore resolved upon to +put this plan into immediate execution, without any farther +consultation with Shelvocke, and to leave the coast of America +directly. They were now to the S.S.E. of Port Marquis, in lat. +16°50'N. and accordingly on the 18th March shaped their +course for crossing the Pacific ocean towards the Ladrone +islands.</p> + +<p>The Manilla ships usually leave the Philippine islands about +the beginning of July, and arrive at the Ladrones about the +beginning of September, whence they proceed for Acapulco, where +they are expected to arrive about the middle of January. They +generally remain at Acapulco, till towards the latter end of +April, and then sail for Manilla. This, though the general rule, +is liable to some alterations, according as the trade-winds set +in earlier or later. From this account, it is plain that the ship +they had now proposed to wait for must have been the galleon on +her passage from Acapulco for Manilla, which always has a +prodigious quantity of silver on board.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Voyage of the Success from the Coast of Mexico to +China.</i></p> + +<p>The Success performed the voyage from the coast of Mexico to +the Ladrones in fifty-three days, arriving in sight of the island +of Serpana on the 10th May, 1721. This island is in lat. +13°42'N. though usually laid down in the Spanish maps in +14°.[243] In this passage they lost six of their men, and the +rest were reduced to so weak and low a state, that the sight of +this island gave them great joy. They determined however to +proceed to Guam, as best known to Europeans, and where they were +most likely to procure provisions; but in their present weakly +condition it might have been better to have gone to Serpana, +where the Spaniards have not so great a force as at Guam. They +anchored in the road at this island on the 13th May, and sent +their pinnace ashore with a flag of truce to obtain provisions. +But the people informed them that, without leave of the governor, +they could not trade with them. Application was therefore made to +the governor for this purpose, which was favourably received for +the present; and Mr Godfrey, the owners agent, who had been sent +up to the governor at Umatta, returned on the 16th to the Success +in one of the country proas, with a message from the governor, +intimating, that they should be furnished with provisions, if +they behaved civilly and paid honestly. The launch arrived soon +after, bringing on board some cattle, bread, sugar, brandy, +fruit, and vegetables; and on the 17th the governor sent a +handsome present of palm-wine, sugar, and brandy, with a large +quantity of chocolate.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 243: Serpana is probably some small island +close to Guam, not inserted in general maps. The centre of Guam +is in 13°30'N.]</blockquote> + +<p>The <i>Island of Guam</i>, in lat. 13°30'N. long +145°30'E. from Greenwich, is nearly ten leagues long from N. +to S. and five leagues from E. to W. It has several villages, the +most remarkable being Amatta, Atry, Agana, Anigua, Asa, Hugatee, +and Rigues. The natives are formerly said to have amounted to +150,000 souls, but at this time did not exceed a tenth of the +number, of which a few hundreds remained independent in the +mountains, in spite of every effort to reduce them under the +Spanish dominion. The natives are strong, active, vigorous, and +war-like, but are represented as cruel, vindictive, and +treacherous, though perhaps the Spaniards have exaggerated their +bad qualities, to extenuate their own tyranny and oppression. The +Spanish garrison at this island at this time consisted of 300, +relieved from time to time from Manilla, and the King of Spain is +said to have allowed 30,000 dollars yearly for the maintenance of +this port, the only use of which is to give refreshments to the +annual ship which goes between Manilla and Acapulco.</p> + +<p>Having agreed with the governor of Guam for the ransom of the +Marquis de Villa Roche, that nobleman went ashore on the 18th +May, accompanied by the agent, the first lieutenant, and the +doctor; and the Success gave him a salute of five guns at +parting. For six days after, the launch was continually employed +in bringing wood, water, and provisions on board, during which +time the governor requested to be supplied with some arms and +ammunition in exchange, and accordingly Captain Clipperton sent +him twelve fuzees, three jars of gunpowder, sixty rounds of shot, +four pair of pistols, and several cutlasses, swords, and daggers. +On the 25th a letter was sent on board, demanding the jewels +belonging to the marquis, some consecrated plate, and two +negroes, who were Christians; as also requiring to have a +certificate signed by the captain and officers of the Success, +that peace had been proclaimed between Britain and Spain; besides +which, this letter intimated that Mr Godfrey and Mr Pritty were +detained till all these demands were complied with. In reply, +Captain Clipperton sent a letter, containing a certificate, that +he had been informed by the Solidad, the last prize taken on the +coast of Chili, that peace had been concluded between Britain and +Spain; but threatning, if the agreed ransom for the marquis, and +the two gentlemen now detained, were not sent off in twenty-four +hours, that he would demolish all the houses on shore, burn the +ship in the harbour, and do all the mischief he could at the +Philippine Islands.</p> + +<p>Soon after, a letter was received from the governor, saying +that he would pay for the consecrated plate, and desiring to have +more powder and shot; to which Clipperton made answer that he +could not spare any more. The yawl went ashore on the 28th for +more provisions; but the people were told that no more could be +had, unless they sent more powder and shot. Upon this Clipperton +weighed anchor, and stood in for the harbour, sending the pinnace +a-head to sound. The people on shore had raised a battery during +the sham treaty about the ransom of the marquis, from which they +fired on the pinnace. The pinnace now returned to Clipperton, and +reported that the only channel they could find lay within +pistol-shot of the shore; yet at six in the afternoon Clipperton +persisted to carry the Success into the harbour, making directly +for the ship that lay there at anchor. The <i>Spaniards</i> +carried her into shoal-water,[244] where she was exposed to two +fires, one from the new battery on land, almost directly over +head, and the other from the ship. At nine she got foul of the +rocks, when they had to cut away two of their anchors, +endeavouring to get her off, all the while the enemy plying them +warmly with shot and stones from the new battery on the hill, so +that they suffered severely in the hull and rigging of the ship. +They also had three men wounded, besides losing the first +lieutenant, Mr Davidson, an honest man and a good officer. Thus +the Success had to remain in a miserable situation, exposed +during the whole night to the continual fire of the enemy; and +the surface of the water being as smooth as a mill-pond, the ship +was easily seen in the night, while her unfortunate crew had no +other mark to fire at but the flashes of the enemy's guns.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 244: This unexplained circumstance probably +meant, that the Success had at this time <i>Spanish</i> pilots, +who betrayed her.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this dangerous emergency, Captain Clipperton being overcome +with liquor, and quite unable to command, the officers came to +the resolution of running clear from the enemy as soon as they +could get the ship afloat, and signed a paper to indemnify Mr +Cook if he would assume the command. By four in the afternoon of +the 29th they got the ship afloat, and cut away their small bower +anchor, but ran aground again in ten minutes. At nine they +carried out the kedge-anchor, but the hawser broke in heaving. +They now carried out another hawser, having a lower-deck gun +fixed to it, as they had now lost all their anchors, and were +still aground. At two in the morning of the 30th the enemy +repeatedly called upon them to surrender, or they might expect no +quarter. At five they carried out the main-top-mast shrowd +hawser, with another gun, still plying the enemy with their great +guns and small-arms, though they were able to do little harm; +while the enemy never missed them, especially directing their +shot at the boats of the Success, whenever they saw them in +motion. At eleven in the forenoon of the 30th they carried out +the remains of their best bower-cable, with two lower-deck guns, +which they dropped right a-head in five fathoms water. They now +cleared the hold, ready to start their water to lighten the ship; +got their upper and lower-deck guns forwards, to bring her by the +head as she hung abaft on the rocks, and kept two guns constantly +firing from the stern-ports at the enemy's battery, but could not +get them to bear. During the last twenty-four hours they had +fortunately only one man wounded; but the ship was wretchedly +injured between wind and water, and her rigging torn to +pieces.</p> + +<p>At six in the afternoon of the 30th the ship floated, when +they cut away their yawl, having been sunk by a shot. They hove +taught their cable, and then cut it away, together with the two +hawsers, and sent the pinnace a-head to tow the ship off. Just as +the ship got afloat, the enemy fired with great briskness from +their new battery, their shot raking through the Success between +wind and water, killed one of her men, and wounded two +others.</p> + +<p>The Success had now remained fifty hours as a fair mark for +the enemy to fire at, during which they lost both their +bower-anchors and cables, with the stern and kedge-anchors, four +hawsers, four lower-deck guns, nineteen barrels of powder, two +men killed and six wounded; and had they not now got off, it was +believed they must have been sunk before morning. At ten in the +forenoon of the 31st they hove to, and began to splice their +rigging, not a rope of which had escaped the shot of the enemy. +The masts and yards were all sore wounded; and the carpenters had +to work during the whole night, stopping-the shot-holes in the +hull. They stowed away most of their guns in the hold, barred up +the ports, hoisted in the launch and pinnace, and at noon steered +away west under an easy sail, hoping to save their passage before +the western monsoon set in; the carpenters being fully occupied +in fishing the masts and yards, and the rest of the crew in +mending the rigging. At six in the evening of the 31st May, 1721, +the body of the island of Guam bore E. seven leagues distant, and +they then took their departure; being in 15° 20' N. designing +now for China.</p> + +<p>The conduct of Captain Clipperton at Guam was certainly +exceedingly erroneous. He ought on no account to have permitted +the marquis to go on shore till he had received the money for his +ransom, and all the provisions of which he stood in need. The +marquis had before behaved very ill to him, and had no title to +any favour; and if he had kept the marquis, the governor of Guam +would not have had any opportunity of putting his schemes in +execution. Clipperton committed also an egregious error in +pretending to attack the town, and the ship in the harbour. +Though drunkenness is rather an aggravation than an excuse for +misconduct, yet it is to be considered that Clipperton was a mere +sailor, who had not the benefit of a liberal education, and that +he fell into this sad vice from disappointment and despair. On +all occasions he had shewn a humane and even generous +disposition, with the most inflexible honesty, and a constant +regard to the interest of his owners. He is therefore much to be +pitied, for having fled to the bottle under a load of misfortunes +too heavy for him to bear.</p> + +<p>The voyage upon which they had now to enter was very +dangerous, the run from Manilla to China being estimated at 400 +leagues; besides that the distance they had now to sail was much +greater. They had only received a very moderate addition to their +former scanty stock of provisions; and their vessel had been so +roughly handled in the late unfortunate affair, that they were +very apprehensive she would not last out the voyage. On careful +examination, she was found to be in a very shattered condition, +having scarcely a whole timber in her upper works, and one of her +<i>fashion pieces</i> being shot through, which is a principal +support of the after-part of the ship, they were obliged to strap +her, to keep her together. As it blew pretty fresh, they durst +not carry sail, and for nearly a week together had to scud almost +under bare poles, through variable winds, bad weather, and a +rough sea. This was a melancholy situation for the people, in +seas with which they were little acquainted, and sailing by +charts on which they could not depend. Yet they found the +accounts and charts of Dampier much superior to those laid down +by persons of much greater figure, so that without these they had +hardly been able to have extricated themselves from their +difficulties. The 24th June they were in sight of the +<i>Bashee</i> Islands, in lat. 20° 45' N. long. 121° 40' +E. On the 31st they saw the <i>island-shoals</i> of +<i>Pralas</i>, in lat. 21° N. long. 116° 20' E. The 1st +July they fell in with other islands, not laid down in any of +their charts, which perplexed them sadly, not being able to form +any certain judgment of their true course. They anchored under +one of these islands in thirteen fathoms, and sent away one of +their boats to endeavour to procure intelligence how Macao bore +from them, that being the port to which they were bound. The +pinnace returned on the 2d July, bringing a boat in which were +three Chinese sailors, or fishermen, whom they could not +understand, and all they could learn from them was, that Canton +bore from them to the S.W.</p> + +<p>On the 3d July, finding they had got too far to leeward of +Macao, and being unable to procure a pilot, they resolved to sail +for <i>Amoy</i>, as the only course that was left them, and +accordingly arrived before that port in the evening of the 5th; +but being afraid to enter it in the night, they plied off and on +till daybreak of the 6th. They here noticed great numbers of +snakes in the sea, brought down by the rivers that empty +themselves upon that coast. The entrance into the port of +<i>Amoy</i> is sufficiently conspicuous, in consequence of a high +mountain, on the top of which is a tower, or pagoda, which may be +seen at the distance of twenty leagues out to sea, and has a +small island immediately before the mouth of the bay. The river +<i>Change-neu</i>[245] discharges itself here into the sea, +forming a spacious bay about eight leagues in circuit, where +ships may ride at anchor in great safety, the only difficulty +being in getting into port, which they happily accomplished in +the evening of the 6th July, being well pleased to find +themselves once more in a place where they might hope to procure +refreshments, and be able to repair their ship; or if that were +impracticable, whence they might procure a passage home. +Clipperton was as much rejoiced as the rest; for, having had his +full share of afflictions and misfortunes at sea, he was happy in +the prospect of securing a small sum of money for his own use, +and sending home what belonged to the owners, if the ship were +really past repairing, as his people reported.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 245: No name resembling <i>Amoy</i> is to +be found on the coast of China in any of our best maps, and the +text gives no distinct indication of its situation. The river +<i>Changeneu</i> of the text, perhaps refers to +<i>Tchang-tcheou</i>, a city in the province of Fokien, having a +large bay in lat. 24° 30' N. long. 118° 15' E. and +<i>Amoy</i> may have been some corruption of the port of +discharge at the mouth of the river which passes +Tchang-tcheou.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They had no sooner anchored in the port than ten custom-house +officers were placed on board. At Amoy, as in most other ports in +China, the customs are under the direction of a single mandarin, +called the Hoppo, or Hoppou. The Chinese are justly reputed the +craftiest people in the world; and it is their invariable maxim +to appoint the cunningest man they can find to the office of +hoppo. It may be added, that the people of Amoy are reputed to be +less nice in the principles of honour and honesty even than any +others in China. The first thing demanded by these custom-house +officers was, what the ship was, and what was her business at +this port. Clipperton made answer, that the ship belonged to the +King of Great Britain, and had put in there from stress of +weather, in order to obtain a supply of provisions and other +necessaries. The officers now demanded an exact account of the +number of men and guns, the nature and amount of the cargo, and +the time they intended to stay, all of which they set down in +writing, and then departed.</p> + +<p>Next morning the men mutinied, and insisted that Clipperton +should pay them their prize-money immediately, as the Success was +in no condition to proceed to sea. The man who made this demand +was one John Dennison; and when Mr Taylor interposed in behalf of +the captain, one Edward Boreman told him he had better desist, +unless he had a mind to have a brace of bullets through his head. +There was now an end of all regularity on board, the authority of +the captain being completely overthrown. The country people +supplied the ship with abundance of rice, with some cattle and +fowls, together with wood and water, for which they were paid. On +the 12th the officers went ashore to wait upon the hoppo, who had +a fine palace. He treated them with great civility, giving them +leave to anchor in the harbour, and to remain there till the +adverse monsoon was over; but for this he demanded 1700 dollars +as port-charges, equal to near £400 sterling, and soon +afterward received that sum in ready money.</p> + +<p>It may be remembered that Mr Mitchell went out from. England +as second captain under Clipperton. On his going to Brazil, he +was succeeded by Mr Davidson, who was slain in the unfortunate +affair at Guam; to whom Mr Cook succeeded as second captain. He +now demanded to receive thirty shares of the prize-money in that +capacity, in which he was supported by the men, whom he courted +by a continual compliance with all their humours. Captain +Clipperton and the rest of the officers, seeing the turn matters +were likely to take, were very desirous that some allowance +should be reserved for the officers who were absent, and had been +taken prisoners, and for Mr Hendrie and Mr Dod, who had joined +them from the Speedwell: but all their endeavours were fruitless, +as the men would not listen to any such allowances. While these +disputes were going on, the men went ashore as they pleased, +without asking leave; and when the captain endeavoured to correct +this licence, the whole company stood out, and would not submit +to controul. After this every thing fell into confusion, and the +men refused to work till they should receive their prize-money. +They even applied to the chief mandarin of the place, styled +<i>Hyhuug</i> by the Chinese, to interpose his authority for +obliging their captain to comply with their demands. This +magistrate then summoned Captain Clipperton to appear before him, +and demanded to know the reason why he refused to give the men +satisfaction; on which the captain produced the articles, which +contained expressly that they were not to receive their +prize-money till their return to London. But Captain Cook, as he +was now styled, gave quite a different account of this matter to +the mandarin; on which a guard of soldiers was sent aboard the +Success, with a peremptory order to Captain Clipperton +immediately to settle the shares, and to pay them to the men, +with which he was forced to comply.</p> + +<p>This distribution was accordingly made on the 16th September, +pursuant to the order of the chief mandarin; and as no allowance +was reserved for those who had been made prisoners, or for the +representatives of those who had died, or the two gentlemen who +formerly served in the Speedwell, the prize-money stood thus:</p> + +<pre> + The share of money and silver plate, dollars 280 + The share of gold, 100 + The share of jewels, 39 + ----- + Total share of a foremast-man, 419 +</pre> + +<p>Which, at 4s. 8d. the dollar, amounted to £97:15:4 +sterling. According to this distribution: The share of the +captain amounted to £1466, 10s. The second captain had +£733, 5s. The captain of marines, the lieutenants of the +ship, and the surgeon, had each £488:16:8. Although Captain +Cook and his associates were thus able to carry their point, yet +Captain Clipperton prevailed on the mandarin to set apart one +half of the cargo for the benefit of the owners; which amounted, +in money, silver, gold, and jewels, to between six and seven +thousand pounds. This was afterwards shipped at Macao in a +Portuguese ship, called the Queen of Angels, commanded by Don +Francisco de la Vero. This ship was unfortunately burnt at Rio de +Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, on the 6th June, 1722; so that +the owners, after deducting salvage, only received +£1800.</p> + +<p>The people and mandarins at Amoy have so conducted themselves +for a long time, that, even among their own countrymen, this port +has the appellation of <i>Hiamuin booz</i>, or Amoy the roguish. +The fishermen on the coast, when they meet any European ship that +seems intended for that port, pronounce these words with a very +significant air; but, for want of understanding the language, or +perhaps from confidence in their own prudence, this warning is +seldom attended to. The custom of this port is to disarm every +ship that enters it, sending two frigates or armed vessels, +called <i>chan-pans</i>, full of men, to ride close by the +vessel, to ensure the execution of all orders from the +<i>hoppo</i> and chief mandarin. Besides the enormous imposition +under the name of port charges, already mentioned, they have +other strange methods of getting money. Thus, though the small +craft of the country are at liberty to carry all sorts of +provisions on board for sale, yet every one of these must in the +first place go to one of the <i>chan-pans</i>, and pay there a +tax or consideration for leave to go to the strange vessel. By +this means, though provisions are here very plentiful, and ought +therefore to be cheap, the price is enhanced at least a third. +The mandarins have also a practice of sending presents of wine, +provisions, and expensive curiosities, to the captain and other +officers; of all which, when the ship is ready to sail, they send +an exact memorial with the prices charged, the last article being +so much for the clerk drawing up the account; and all this must +be discharged in money or commodities, before their arms and +ammunition are returned.</p> + +<p>During a stay of ten weeks at this port, they sufficiently +experienced all the artifices of this covetous and fraudulent +people, from whom Captain Clipperton had no way to defend +himself, and was therefore obliged to submit to all their +demands. Towards the end of September, the season and their +inclinations concurred to deliver them from this place; for by +this time, even the common men began to be weary of the people, +who shewed themselves finished cheats in every thing. On the 25th +September, their arms and ammunition were restored, and that same +day the Success weighed from the harbour, going out into the road +or gulf, in order to proceed for Macao, to have the ship +surveyed, as the men insisted she was not in a condition for the +voyage home. Captain Clipperton affirmed the contrary, well +knowing that the men insisted on this point merely to justify +their own conduct, and to avoid being punished in England for +their misbehaviour in China.</p> + +<p>They weighed anchor from the Bay of Amoy, in the province of +<i>Tonkin</i>,[246] on the 30th September, and anchored in the +road of <i>Macao</i> on the 4th October. This place had been an +hundred and fifty years in the hands of the Portuguese, and had +formerly been one of the most considerable places of trade in all +China, but has now fallen much into decay. The way in which the +Portuguese became possessed of this place gives a good specimen +of Chinese generosity. In prosecuting their trade with China from +India and Malacca, being often overtaken by storms, many of their +ships had been cast away for want of a harbour, among the islands +about Macao, on which they requested to have some place of safety +allowed them in which to winter. The Chinese accordingly gave +them this rocky island, then inhabited by robbers, whom they +expelled. At first they were only allowed to build thatched +cottages; but, by bribing the mandarins, they were permitted in +the sequel to erect stone houses, and even to build forts. One of +these, called <i>the Fort of the Bar</i>, is at the mouth of the +harbour, and terminates at a rock called <i>Appenka</i>, where +there is a hermitage of the order of St Augustine. There is +another fort on the top of a hill, called the Fort of the +Mountain; also another high fort, called <i>Nuestra Senhora de +Guia</i>. The city of Macao stands on a peninsula, having a +strong wall built across the isthmus, with a gate in the middle, +through which the Chinese pass out and in at pleasure, but it is +death for a Portuguese to pass that way.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 246: This surely is an error for Fo-kien. +Amoy has been before stated in the text as N.E. from Macao, +whereas the <i>kingdom</i> of Tonquin is S.W. from that +port.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Some travellers have reported that the Portuguese were +sovereigns of Macao, as of other places in India: But they never +were, and the Chinese are too wise a people to suffer any thing +of the kind. Macao certainly is as fine a city, and even finer, +than could be expected, considering its untoward situation: It is +also regularly and strongly fortified, having upwards of 200 +pieces of brass cannon upon its walls. Yet, with all these, it +can only defend itself against strangers. The Chinese ever were, +and ever will be, masters of Macao, and that without firing a gun +or striking a blow. They have only to shut up that gate and place +a guard there, and Macao is undone; and this they have actually +done frequently. Without receiving provisions from the adjacent +country, the inhabitants of this city cannot subsist for a day; +and besides, it is so surrounded by populous islands, and the +Chinese are here so completely masters of the sea, that the +Portuguese at Macao might be completely starved on the slightest +difference with the Chinese. The Portuguese have indeed the +government over their own people within the walls of this city; +yet Macao is strictly and properly a Chinese city: For there is a +Chinese governor resident on the spot, together with a hoppo or +commissioner of the customs; and these Chinese mandarins, with +all their officers and servants, are maintained at the expence of +the city, which has also to bear the charges of the Portuguese +government.[247]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 247: The East India Company found all this +to be true a few years ago, when its Indian government thought to +have taken Macao from the Portuguese. Had this account of the +matter been read and understood, they would not have +unnecessarily incurred a vast expence, and suffered no small +disgrace at Canton.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In spite of all this, the Portuguese inhabitants were formerly +very rich, owing to the great trade they carried on with Japan, +which is now in a great measure lost. Yet, being so near Canton, +and allowed to frequent the two annual fairs at that place, and +to make trading voyages at other times, they still find a way to +subsist, and that is all, as the prodigious presents they have to +make on all occasions to the Chinese mandarins, consume the far +greater part of their profits. Each of their vessels, on going up +to Canton, has in the first place to pay £100 sterling for +leave to trade. They are next obliged to make a considerable +present, for permission to have their goods brought on board by +the Chinese, to whom they must not only pay ready money for all +they buy, but have sometimes to advance the price beforehand for +a year. After all this, they have to make another present for +leave to depart, at least double the amount of what they formerly +paid for liberty to trade; and they have to pay heavy duties to +the emperor for every thing they buy or sell, besides their +enormous presents to his ministers.</p> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Residence of Captain Clipperton at Macao, and Returns from +thence to England.</i></p> + +<p>On entering the port of Macao in the Success, Captain +Clipperton saluted the fortress, which compliment was returned. +He then went on shore, where he prevailed on the captain of a +Portuguese ship of war, formerly mentioned, to carry the property +belonging to his owners to Brazil. At this place, the crew of the +Success found themselves considerably at a loss, as the +Portuguese commander declared himself entirely in favour of +Captain Clipperton. Captain Cook, therefore, and another of the +officers of the Success, went up to Canton, to consult with Mr +Winder, supercargo of an English East Indiaman, and son to one of +the principal owners, as to what should be done with, the +Success. On their return, the ship was surveyed, condemned, and +sold for 4000 dollars, which was much less than her worth. This +was, however, no fault in Captain Clipperton, who, to shew that +he still adhered to his former opinion, that the ship was fit to +proceed to England, agreed with the persons who purchased her for +a passage to Batavia, a convincing proof that he did not believe +her in any danger of foundering at sea.</p> + +<p>The ship being sold, the crew naturally considered themselves +at liberty to shift for themselves, and to use their best +endeavours each to save what little remained to him, after their +unfortunate expedition. All were satisfied that Captain Mitchell, +with his crew and cargo, had either gone to the bottom or fallen +into the hands of the Spaniards, so that they had no hopes of any +farther dividend from that quarter; yet it was some consolation +that they were so near the English factory at Canton, and as six +dollars were required for a passage to that place in one of the +Chinese boats, twenty of them agreed to go there immediately, in +hopes of getting a passage from thence to England. Mr Taylor, one +of the mates of the Success, was of the number: But before the +boat set sail, he had some presentiment of danger, and chose +rather to lose his money, by waiting for another opportunity. He +had reason to be satisfied with himself for this conduct; as he +soon learnt that the boat tad been taken by a pirate, and the +people stript of all their property. After a short stay at Macao, +Mr Taylor had an opportunity of going up to Canton in an armed +boat along with a mandarin, for which he and the rest of the crew +belonging to the Success, who went along with him, paid twenty +dollars each. In their passage up, they had satisfactory proof +that in some cases there may be frugality in expence, as they saw +a pirate take a boat in sight of that in which was the mandarin. +This plainly shewed that the government winks at these things, +perhaps deeming it good policy to raise thereby a considerable +revenue, partly by presents from the pirates, and partly by sums +paid by merchants and passengers for protection. From this, and +many other circumstances which might be adduced, the boasted +wisdom of the Chinese is nothing more than the science of +dexterously hiding their robberies from the inspection of the +law: In which, perhaps, they are as much exceeded by some +northern nations as in the use of the compass, of which they +pretend to be the original inventors, and perhaps with justice; +but both in the management of the compass, and in this political +trade of pirating, they are equally clumsy.</p> + +<p>Mr Taylor and his company arrived at the English factory in +Canton on the 4th November, where they were well received, and +promised all assistance for getting home. There were at this time +ships ready to sail, first for several ports in India and then +for Europe. The captains of these vessels, on being solicited by +the gentlemen of the factory to take Captain Clipperton's men on +board, agreed to carry them for five pounds a man, which they all +accordingly paid, esteeming it a very great favour. Mr Taylor and +two or three more embarked in the Maurice, Captain Peacock, then +riding at Wanapo, [Wampoa,] about three leagues below Canton, the +place where European ships lie; and the rest of the company were +distributed among the other ships. They sailed on the 9th, in +company with the Macclesfield, an English East-Indiaman, and the +House-of-Austria, belonging to Ostend. Mr Taylor arrived safely +at Batavia in the month of December; sailed thence by the Cape +and St Helena, and arrived in London in May 1722. The rest of the +company returned also, some sooner and some later.</p> + +<p>As for Captain Mitchell, who was sent to Brazil with a small +crew, he was never more heard of, having probably been destroyed +at the island of Velas, where he went ashore to procure fresh +provisions. This has generally been considered as the greatest +blemish in the management of Captain Clipperton, but I confess +without just cause, in my opinion; as the great stress laid on +that measure by Captain Rogers, might very well have induced +Captain Clipperton to try what might be done in this way, +especially as his owners had very strongly recommended the +account of Captain Rogers to be his rule and guide. I also think +the proposal in itself was very reasonable, and such as an +officer who had the good of the expedition at heart had good +grounds for trying. It was well known that the prize goods could +produce little or nothing in the South Sea, as the Spanish +governors demanded such exorbitant sums for liberty to trade, +that no advantage could be derived from such a commerce, either +in buying or selling. He knew also that it was to little purpose +carrying these goods to Europe; and it was certainly much +preferable to send them to a place where they might sell to +advantage, and where the produce might be so invested as to +procure a considerable profit on the voyage from Brazil to +London. The vessel in which Captain Mitchell sailed was very fit +for the purpose, and every way well provided; and having a crew +of thirteen English and ten negroes, was quite sufficient for the +navigation.</p> + +<p>Captain Clipperton sailed from Macao to Batavia, in his own +ship the Success, after she was sold; and got a passage to Europe +in a Dutch ship. He arrived at Galway in Ireland, where he left +his family, in June, 1722; being then in a very bad state of +health, partly occasioned by his great fatigues, but chiefly +through the concern he was under for the loss sustained by his +owners in this unfortunate enterprize. It may be objected, that +he ought to have returned from Holland to England, to give his +owners the best account in his power respecting the events of the +voyage. But, as he sent home their moiety of the profits in the +Portugueze ship, which, had it not been destroyed by the way, had +nearly covered the expence of fitting out the Success, taking in +the money she sold for; and if we consider the reduced state of +his health when he went to Galway, where he did not live above a +week, he may well be excused for this step.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4-12" id="chapter4-12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h2> + +<p>VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD BY CAPTAIN GEORGE SHELVOCKE, IN +1719-1722.[248]</p> + +<p>INTRODUCTION.</p> + +<p>In the introduction to the former voyage, a sufficient account +has been given of the motives on which the expedition was +founded, and the original plan of acting under an imperial +commission; together with motives for changing this plan, and the +reason of advancing Captain Clipperton to the chief command. In +the new scheme of the voyage, Captain Shelvocke retained the +command of the Speedwell, carrying twenty-four guns and 106 men, +Mr Simon Hately being his second captain, an officer who has a +good character given of him in the account of the former voyage +by Captain Rogers. The marines were under the command of Captain +William Betagh. Captain Shelvocke has himself written an account +of the expedition, and another was published by Captain Betagh, +so that the following narrative is composed from both. +Shelvocke's narrative is, strictly speaking, an apology for his +own conduct, yet contains abundance of curious particulars, +written in an entertaining style, and with an agreeable spirit; +while the other is written with much acrimony, and contains heavy +charges against Captain Shelvocke, yet contains many curious +circumstances.--<i>Harris</i>.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 248: Harris, I. 198. Callender, III. +502.]</blockquote> + +<p>This is one of the best written voyages we have hitherto met +with, yet extends rather to considerable length, considering its +relative importance. On the present occasion, therefore, it has +been endeavoured to lop off as many of its redundances as could +be conveniently done without injury, yet leaving every +circumstance of any interest or importance. The principal +omission, or abbreviation rather, on the present occasion, is the +leaving out several controversial matters, inserted by Harris +from the account of this voyage by Betagh; which might have +sufficient interest among contemporaries, a few years after the +unfortunate issue of this misconducted enterprise, but are now of +no importance, near a century later.--Ed.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Narrative of the Voyage from England to the South +Sea.</i></p> + +<p>Sailing from Plymouth on the 13th February, 1719, in company +with the Success, we kept company no longer than to the 19th, +when, between nine and ten at night, we had a violent storm at +S.W. which increased so, that by eleven we were under bare poles. +At midnight a sea struck us on our quarter, which stove in one of +our dead lights on the quarter and another on our stern, by which +we shipped a vast quantity of water before we could get them +again fastened up, and we were a considerable time under great +apprehension of foundering. On the 20th we could not see the +Success; and this storm so terrified the greatest part of the +crew, that seventy of them were resolved to bear away for +England, alleging that the ship was so very crank she would never +be able to carry us to the South Sea. But by the resolution of +the officers they were brought back to their duty.</p> + +<p>As the Canaries were the first place of rendezvous, we +continued our course for these islands, where we arrived on the +17th March, and cruised there the time appointed by our +instructions.[249] We next sailed for the Cape de Verde Islands, +and arrived at Maio on the 14th April.[250] A little before +arriving here, Turner Stevens[251] the gunner very gravely +proposed to me and the rest of the officers to cruize in the Red +Sea; as there could be no harm in robbing the Mahometans, whereas +the Spaniards were good Christians, and it was a sin to injure +them. I ordered him immediately into confinement, after which he +became outrageous, threatening to blow up the ship. Wherefore I +discharged him at his own request, and left also here on shore my +chief mate, who had challenged and fought with Mr Brooks, my +first lieutenant.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 249: Clipperton arrived there on the 5th, +and sailed thence on the 15th of March.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 250: Clipperton came to St Vincent on the +24th March, and cruized in that neighbourhood for ten days, so +that he must have sailed about the 31st, at least a fortnight +before the arrival of Shelvocke.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 251: Called Charles Turner by +Betagh.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 18th, we went to <i>Port Praya</i>, in the island of St +Jago, but finding nothing here but fair promises, I resolved to +proceed to the island of St Catharine on the coast of Brazil, in +lat. 20° 30' S.[252] in hopes of obtaining every thing +necessary for our passage into the South Sea, as, according to +the account of it by Frezier, it abounds in all the necessaries +of life, such especially as are requisite in long voyages. We +sailed therefore from Port Praya on the 20th of April, and had a +very bad passage, as we were twenty-one days before we could pass +the equinoctial. White between the two tradewinds, we had usually +slight breezes, varying all round the compass, and sometimes +heavy squalls of wind, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In +short, the most variable weather that can be conceived, insomuch +that we were fifty-five days between St Jago and St Catharines. +On the 4th June we made Cape Frio, bearing W. seven leagues off +our lat. by observation, 23° 41' S.[253] On the 5th we met +and spoke a ship, to which I sent Captain Hately to enquire the +news on the coast, and gave him money to buy tobacco, as the +Success had our stock on board. She was a Portuguese from Rio de +Janeiro bound to Pernambuco, and had no tobacco; but Hately had +laid out my money in unnecessary trifles, alleging they would +sell for double the money at the next port.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 252: This island is in 27° 10' +S.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 253: Cape Frio is in 22° 33' +S.]</blockquote> + +<p>[Captain Betagh gives a very different account of this matter, +asserting that Shelvocke hoisted imperial colours and made the +Portuguese ship bring to, on which Hately went aboard with a +boat's crew well armed, and put the Portuguese captain in such a +fright, that he not only sent all sorts of refreshments on board +the Speedwell, but a dozen pieces of silk flowered with gold and +silver, worth about three pounds a yard, several dozens of China +plates and basons, a Japan cabinet, and three hundred moidores in +gold; ninety-six of which were afterwards found on Hately, when +made prisoner by the Spaniards, when he had nearly been put to +death for piracy on their account.][254]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 254: It is almost unnecessary to point out, +that this paragraph is an addition by Harris to the narrative of +Shelvocke, extracted from the journal of +Betagh.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We anchored at the island of St Catharine on the 23d June, +where the carpenter went ashore with a gang to fell trees, and +saw them into planks. The captain and inhabitants of the island +came off to us daily with fresh provisions, which saved our +sea-stores while we lay here. I also bought twenty-one beeves, +200 salted drom-fish of large size, and 150 bushels of cassado +meal, called by the Portuguese <i>farina de fao</i>. This is +about as fine as our oatmeal, and from it a very hearty food is +prepared with little trouble. I also bought 160 bushels of +<i>calavances</i>, partly for money at a dollar the bushel, and +partly in exchange for salt, measure for measure; and likewise +provided a quantity of tobacco for the crew.</p> + +<p>The account given of this island by Frezier is very exact, +only that he takes no notice of an island between the island of +<i>Gall</i> and the continent of Brazil, nor of a reef of rocks. +To arrive at the proper anchoring place at this island of St +Catharine, it is necessary to proceed in the channel between that +island and the continent till within or near two small nameless +islands, over against the northernmost of which is the watering +place on the island of St Catharine, near the entrance of a +salt-water creek, opposite to which you may safely anchor in six +or seven fathoms on fine grey sand. The isle of St Catharine is +about eight leagues and a half long, but no where exceeds two +leagues broad; and at one place the channel between it and the +continent is only a quarter of a mile broad. The island is +covered all over with impassable woods, except where cleared for +the plantations. Even the smallest island about it is covered in +like manner with a great variety of trees, between which the +ground is entirely covered with thorns and brambles, which hinder +all access; and the main land of Brazil may be justly termed a +vast continued wilderness. Sassafras, so much valued in Europe, +is so common here that we laid in a good quantity for fuel. It +has great abundance of oranges, both China and Seville, lemons, +citrons, limes, bananas, cabbage-palms, melons of all sorts, and +potatoes. It has also very large and good sugar-canes, of which +they make little use for want of utensils, so that the little +sugar, molasses and rum they have is very dear. They have very +little game, though the woods are full of parrots, which are good +eating. These birds always fly in pairs, though often several +hundreds in a flock. Maccaos, cockatoes, plovers, and a variety +of other birds of curious colours and various shapes, are to be +seen in abundance; particularly one somewhat larger than a +thrush, having a spur on the joint of each wing. Flamingoes are +often seen here in great numbers, of a fine scarlet colour, and +appear very beautiful while flying. This bird is about the size +of a heron, and not unlike it in shape.</p> + +<p>The fishery is here abundant, as fish of several excellent +sorts are in great plenty, and there is the best convenience +almost everywhere for hauling the seine. All the creeks and bays +are well stocked with mullets, large rays, grantors, cavallies, +and drum-fish, so named from the noise they make when followed +into shallow water, and there taken. Some of them weigh twenty or +thirty pounds each, their scales being as large as crown pieces. +The Portuguese call them <i>moroes</i>. The salt-water creek +formerly mentioned may be gone up three or four miles, to be near +the watering-place; and every rock or stone, even the roots of +the mangrove trees, afford a delicious small green oyster. +Likewise on the rocks at the sea-side there are <i>sea-eggs</i>, +which resemble <i>dock-burrs</i>, but usually three or four times +as large, of a sea-green or purple colour. In the inside they are +divided into partitions, like oranges, each cell containing a +yellow substance, which is eaten raw, and exceeds, in my opinion, +all the shell-fish I ever tasted. They have prawns of +extraordinary size, and we sometimes caught the <i>sea-horse</i> +in our nets. On the savannahs of Areziliba, on the continent +opposite the southern end of St Catharine, they have great +numbers of black cattle, some of which we had from thence at a +very reasonable price.</p> + +<p>The Portuguese on this island are a parcel of banditti, who +have taken refuge here from the more strictly governed parts of +Brazil. Emanuel Mansa, who was captain of the island in the time +of Frezier, was still their chief. They enjoy the blessings of a +fertile country and wholesome air, and stand in need of nothing +from other countries except clothing. They have fire-arms +sufficient for their use, and have often need of them, being +greatly infected with tigers; for which reason every house has +many dogs to destroy these ravenous animals, which yet often make +great havock. I have been told that a tiger has killed eight or +ten dogs in a night: But when any make their appearance in the +day, they seldom escape, as the inhabitants are fond of the +diversion of hunting them. These animals are so numerous, that it +is quite common to see the prints of their paws on the sandy +beach. We could not see any of the fine dwelling-houses mentioned +by Frezier; neither have they any place that can be called a +town, nor any kind of fortification, except the woods, which are +a secure retreat from any enemy that may attack them. I cannot +say much about the Indians of those parts, as I never saw above +two or three of them.</p> + +<p>On the 2d July we saw a large ship at anchor, under Parrots +Island, about five miles from where we lay. After securing the +watering-place, and what we had there ashore, I sent the launch, +well manned and armed, under a lieutenant, to see what she was. +The launch returned about noon, reporting that she was the +<i>Ruby</i>, formerly an English man-of-war, but now one of the +squadron under Martinet, and commanded by Mons. La Jonqniere. She +was in, the Spanish service, but most of her officers and crew +were French, to the number of about 420. Yet they had no +intention to molest us, having quitted the South Sea on report of +a rupture between France and Spain. M. La Jonquiere was a man of +strict honour, and sent me intimation of his good intentions, +with an invitation to dinner, which I accepted, and was well +entertained. About this time I heard that Hately had plundered +the Portuguese ship, formerly mentioned, of 100 moidores, and had +distributed part of the money among the boat's crew, to engage +them to secrecy. I examined into this as strictly as possible, +intending, if found guilty, to have delivered him up to the +captain of St Catharine's, but I could not get sufficient proof. +This man also committed so many vile actions in the island of St +Catharine, that oar people were often in the utmost danger, from +the resentment of the Portuguese; which bad conduct I could +neither prevent nor punish, as he had become a great favourite +with my mutinous crew.</p> + +<p>M. La Jonquiere, with several of his officers and passengers, +came on board the Speedwell to dine with me, on the 6th July. +While they were on board, Hudson my boatswain raised a mutiny, +which was easily quelled by the assistance of the French +gentlemen: But the boatswain was sent home in the French ship. On +the 15th July, we saw a large ship bearing in for the harbour; +but on discovering us, she turned out again. This circumstance +alarmed M. La Jonquiere, suspecting she might be our consort, so +that he put to sea next morning. The large ship appeared again on +the 25th under French colours, being the Solomon of St Malo of +forty guns and 160 men, commanded by M. Dumain Girard, bound for +Peru and Chili.</p> + +<p>At this time great heart-burnings arose in my crew: for, +having heard that the people on board the Duke and Duchess had +been indifferently treated in regard to their prize-money when +they got home, they resolved to secure themselves in time. With +this view, and by the advice of Matthew Stewart, chief-mate, they +drew up a paper of articles respecting plunder, and sent me a +letter insisting on these articles being made the rule of our +voyage; to which at last I was obliged to agree, rather than +suffer them to proceed in a piratical manner.</p> + +<p>On the 3d August the St Francisco Zavier came into the +harbour, a Portuguese man of war of forty guns and 300 men, bound +from Lisbon for Macao in China, commanded by Mons. Riviere, a +Frenchman. We departed from the island of St Catharine on the 9th +August. Its northern point being in lat. 27° 20' S. and long. +50° W. from the Lizard.[255] I kept the lead constantly +sounding all along the coast of Patagonia, and had regular +soundings. From the lat. of 40° to 30° 38' both S. we +frequently saw great shoals of seals and penguins, which were +always attended by flocks of pintadoes, birds about the size of +pigeons. The French call these birds <i>damiers</i>, as their +black and white feathers on their back and wings are disposed +like the squares of a draught-board. These were also attended by +albatrosses, the largest of all sea-fowl, some of them extending +their wings twelve or thirteen feet from tip to tip. While +passing the mouth of the Rio. Plata, the sea was covered with +prodigious quantities of large seaweed, which often greatly +incommoded us and deadened our way. On getting farther south we +were freed from this inconvenience; after which we saw abundance +of things floating on the surface of the sea, like white snakes. +We took some of these up, but could not perceive them to have any +appearance of life, neither had they the shape of any kind of +animal, being only a long cylinder of a white jelly-like +substance, perhaps the spawn of some large fish.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 255: Only 27° S. and 48° 30' W. +from Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As we advanced to the southward, the appetites of our people +increased with the cold, which occasioned disputes in the ship. +Even at my own table, Captain Betagh of the marines insisted on a +larger allowance in such coarse terms, that I confined him till +he wrote me a submissive letter, on which I restored him. But +this squabble constrained me to allow an extraordinary meal to +the people daily, either of flour or calavances; which reduced +our stock of provisions, and consumed our wood and water, proving +afterwards of great inconvenience. Whales, grampuses, and other +fish of monstrous size, are in such vast numbers on the coast of +Patagonia, that they were often offensive to us, coming so close +to us that it seemed impossible to avoid striking them on every +scud of a sea, and almost stifling us with the stench of their +breaths, when they blew close to windward. Being ignorant of the +Greenland fishery, I cannot pretend to say whether that trade +might not be carried on here; but this I may venture to affirm, +that the navigation here is safer, and I am apt to believe it has +a greater chance of being successful.[256]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 256: This southern whale-fishery is now +carried on to a considerable extent.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 19th September, about midnight, perceiving the water +all at once to be discoloured, we sounded, and had 25 fathoms, on +which we stood out from the land, but did not deepen our water in +five leagues. This bank must lie very near the entrance into the +Straits of Magellan. On this bank we saw great numbers of +blubbers, appearing like the tops of umbrellas, curiously +streaked with all sorts of colours, being an entirely different +species from any I had ever seen before. We now steered for the +Straits of <i>Le Maire</i>, and met with very foggy weather on +approaching the coast of <i>Terra del Fuego</i>. The fog cleared +up on the 23d September, when we had sight of stupendous +mountains on that southern land, entirely covered with snow. The +nearest point of land was at least eight leagues from us, in the +S.W. but before we could ascertain our situation the mist +returned. At four next morning, proceeding under easy sail to the +S.E. it proved very clear at day-break, and I found we had fallen +in with the land about five leagues N.W. from the straits of Le +Maire. We had now a full, but melancholy prospect of the most +desolate country that can well be conceived, appearing a +congeries of chains of mountains in succession, one behind the +other, perpetually cloathed in snow.</p> + +<p>Hitherto we had not been sensible of any current, either +favourable or adverse, after getting to the south of the Rio +Plata. But this afternoon we were hurried with incredible +rapidity into the straits of Le Maire; and when we had gained +about the middle of the passage, the tide slackened. On sounding +we had twenty-seven fathoms on a rocky bottom. We had a dear view +of <i>Staten-land</i>, which yields a most uncomfortable prospect +of a surprising height, quite covered with snow to the very wash +of the sea, so that it seems more like a white cloud than firm +land. These straits seemed to answer well to the map of Frezier; +being about seven leagues through and six wide, and extend almost +due north and south. Now the return tide rushed upon us with a +violence equal to that which brought us in, and it was +astonishing with what rapidity we were driven again to the north, +though we had a fresh gale at N.W. so that we seemed to advance +six knots by the log; whence I judged this tide ran not less than +ten knots. In short, we were carried quite out of the straits to +the north in about an hour. Upon this shift of tide there arose +such a short sea, and so lofty at the same time, that we +alternately dipped our bowsprit and poop-lanterns into the water; +our ship all the while labouring most violently, and refusing to +answer the helm. The tide shifted again at midnight, and we shot +through the straits, steering S. with a brisk gale at N.W. +without seeing the land distinctly on either side: And, in the +morning, had a good offing to the southward.</p> + +<p>We found it very cold before we got thus far; but now we began +to feel the utmost extremity of coldness. The bleak western winds +had of themselves been sufficiently piercing; but these were +always accompanied by snow or sleet, which beat continually on +our sails and rigging, cased all our masts, yards, and ropes with +ice, and rendered our sails almost useless. We had been so much +accustomed to most severe storms, that we thought the weather +tolerable when we could carry a reefed main-sail; as we were +often for two or three days together lying-to under bare poles, +exposed to the shocks of prodigious waves, more mountainous than +any I had ever seen. We now sensibly felt the benefit of our +awning, without which we could scarcely have lived. The wind +continued to rage without intermission from the westward, by +which we were driven to the latitude of 61° 30' S. and had +such continued misty weather, that we were under perpetual +apprehension of running foul of ice islands: But, thank God, we +escaped that danger, though under frequent alarms from fog banks +and other false appearances. Though the days were long, we could +seldom get sight of the sun, so that we had only one observation +for the variation in all this passage, which was in lat. 60° +37' S. 5° W. of the straits of Le Maire, when we found it +22° 6' E. On the 1st October, as we were furling the +main-sail, one William Camell, cried out that his hands and +fingers were so benumbed that he could not hold himself: And, +before those near could assist him, he fell down and was drowned. +On the 22d October, our fore-top-mast was carried away, and we +rigged another next day. Having contrary winds from the time we +passed the straits of Le Maire, with the most uncomfortable +weather, we made our way very slowly to the west and northwards, +the hopes of getting soon into a wanner and better climate +supporting us under our many miseries.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings in the South Sea, till Ship-wrecked on the +Island of Juan Fernandez.</i></p> + +<p>At length, on the 14th November at noon, our spirits were +cheared by seeing the coast of Chili; yet here we found ourselves +under very great difficulties. Our tedious passage and +extraordinary consumption of provisions, had so reduced our wood +and water, and even our food, that it was necessary to repair to +some place where our wants might be supplied; but it was +difficult to resolve where that might be done. We first tried +Narborough island, but finding the road unsafe, sailed for the +mouth of St Domingo river on the continent, where we had +twenty-eight fathoms, shoaling as we advanced from eighteen to +less than five as fast as a man could heave the lead. Finding +this place too hazardous, we stood out to sea, and were blown +farther north than we designed. Being greatly at a loss where to +procure wood and water, one Joseph de la Fontaine, a Frenchman, +proposed going to the island of Chiloe, assuring us that the +towns of <i>Chaiao</i> and <i>Calibuco</i>, the former on the +island and the latter on the continent, were rich places, where +we could not fail of procuring whatever we wanted. Cliacao was, +he said, the usual residence of the governor, and at Calibuco was +a wealthy college of Jesuits, having considerable magazines, +always well stocked with provisions of all kinds. This person at +the same time insinuated among the people, that our expedition +would probably turn out unfortunate, if we passed this place, as +Captain Clipperton must by this time have alarmed the coast, in +consequence of which there would be an embargo on all ships +trading to leeward.</p> + +<p>My chief inducement for making an attempt on Chiloe was to +procure such additional supply of provisions, as might enable us, +in case the coast were already alarmed, to retire to some +unfrequented island, to remain till the Spaniards should suppose +we had abandoned the South Sea; after which we could resume our +cruize, when they were under no apprehensions of being molested. +Accordingly, on the 30th November, we entered the channel which +divides the island of Chiloe from the main land of Chili, and +stood in for the harbour of Chacao under French colours, +intending to have attacked the towns of Chacao and Calibuco by +surprise. Our pilot, however, seemed as much a stranger to the +navigation here as I was, and as the wind began to blow fresh +with thick weather, I came to anchor in thirteen fathoms, at ten +in the morning, between the point of <i>Carelampo</i> and the +small island of Pedro Nunez. Soon after coming to anchor, the +tide made outwards with prodigious rapidity, and the wind +increased greatly, between which the sea became very boisterous, +all the channel in which we lay appearing one continued breach or +surf. Our ship consequently made a vast strain on her cable, +which parted at two in the afternoon, and we could have no hopes +to recover our anchor, as the buoy had been staved and sunk about +an hour before we were thus set adrift. I did not think it +adviseable to risk another anchor, and therefore immediately +crossed over for the island of Chiloe, in a boisterous gale with +thick rainy weather, surrounded on all hands with seeming shoals, +and in a manner bewildered in an unknown navigation. When within +a mile of Chiloe, we ranged along shore to the southward,[257] in +hope of discovering the town of Chacao. We passed two commodious +bays, which had no appearance of any town, and came to a point of +land marked by a high pyramidal rock. After getting round this +point, we found ourselves entirely out of the tideway, and quite +sheltered from all other inconveniences, and came therefore to +anchor opposite a cross on the north side of the harbour, having +just sufficient day-light to enable us to get into this place of +shelter.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 257: The direction was more probably to the +eastward--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Next morning, I sent the second lieutenant, in the pinnace +well manned and armed, to look out for the two towns; and sent at +the same time Mr Hately in the launch, to endeavour to find a +watering-place. He soon returned, accompanied by an Indian, who +had shewn him a very convenient place where we could at once +procure both wood and water, even under the command of our guns +from the ship, and free from all danger of being surprised. I +accordingly sent back the launch with casks to be filled, and +several people to cut wood, all well armed, together with an +officer of marines and ten men to keep guard. The Indians gave us +hopes of a sufficient supply of provisions; but came in the +evening to our people who were on shore, to acquaint them that +the natives were forbidden to bring any thing to us. As the +pinnace had not yet returned, this information gave me much +concern, fearing that the enemy had taken her, and had by that +means learnt what we were. On the 3d December, about seven in the +evening, a Spanish officer came to us, in a boat rowed by eight +Indians, being sent by the governor of Chiloe to enquire what we +were. Meaning to pass upon him for a French captain well known in +these seas, I ordered none of my people to appear on deck but +such as could speak French or Spanish, and hoisted French +colours. When the officer came on board, I told him my ship was +the St Rose, homeward-bound, that my name was <i>Janis le +Breton</i>, and that I entreated the governor to spare me what +provisions he could conveniently afford, that being my only +business on the coast. The officer heard me with much civility, +seeming to give implicit credit to all I said; even staid on +board all night, and went away next morning, to all appearance +well satisfied.</p> + +<p>On the 5th in the morning, two boats came towards us full of +armed men; but, after taking a view of us, went to a small island +in the mouth of the harbour. On the 6th we saw a white flag +hoisted on shore, to which I sent my launch completely manned and +armed, but they found no person near the flag, to the shaft of +which a letter was fastened, and a dozen hams lying close by. The +letter was from <i>Don Nicholas Salvo</i>, governor of Chiloe, +intimating strong doubts of our ship being the St Rose, +complaining of the behaviour of the people in our pinnace, and +desiring me to leave the coast. I returned an answer in as proper +terms as I could devise, and next morning had another letter, +couched in the utmost civility, but absolutely refusing me any +refreshments, and demanding the restitution of the Indians said +to have been made prisoners by our pinnace. In fact I knew less +of our pinnace than he did, and believed that he actually had the +people in his hands of whom he now complained.</p> + +<p>Despairing of ever seeing my people, and still ignorant where +Chacao was situated, having no chart of the island on which I +could depend, I determined to change my style of writing to the +governor, and try what could be done by threatening to use force. +I therefore wrote, that I was determined to have provisions by +fair means or foul. Next day I sent my first lieutenant, Mr +Brooks, with twenty-nine men well armed in the launch, ordering +him to bring off all the provisions he could find. Shortly after, +a boat came with a message from the governor, offering to treat +with me, if I would send an officer to Chacao: But I answered, +that I would treat no where but on board, and that he was now too +late, as I had already sent eighty men on shore to take all they +could find.</p> + +<p>In the evening the launch returned, accompanied by a large +piragua, and both were completely laden with sheep, hogs, fowls, +barley, and green peas and beans. Soon afterwards, the pinnace +arrived with all her crew, but so terrified that I did not expect +them to be again fit for service for one while. The officer told +me, that he had been forced to fight his way through several +canoes, filled with armed Indians, from whom he got clear with +the utmost difficulty, and had been under the necessity of making +his passage quite round the island, a course of not less than +seventy leagues.[258] This proceeded only from excess of terror, +as they only met one boat with unarmed Indians and a Spanish +sergeant, who came off to them without the least shew of +violence, as some of them afterwards confessed, but with this +addition, that there were great numbers of people on shore, who +they were apprehensive would come off to them. The only excuse +the officer could allege was, that the tide had hurried him away, +and he forgot in his fright that he had a grappling in the boat, +with which he might have anchored till the tide turned.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 258: The circuit of the island of Chiloe by +sea, could hardly be less than 350 English miles; an arduous +navigation in an open boat upon an utterly unknown +coast.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>By this strange mismanagement, I missed a favourable +opportunity of seizing the town of Chacao, which I might easily +have done if I had appeared before it within forty-eight hours +after our arrival, when the governor was totally unprovided for +resistance. But now, having a whole week allowed for mustering +the force of the island, he had collected near a thousand armed +Spaniards, as I learnt from the Indian prisoners in the pinnace. +I therefore laid aside all thoughts of going to the towns, in the +hopes of furnishing ourselves from the Indian farms and +plantations, in which I kept one of our boats constantly +employed. By the 16th, our decks were full of live cattle, +together with poultry and hams in abundance, and such quantities +of wheat, barley, potatoes, and maize, that I was quite +satisfied. On a moderate computation, we had added four months +provisions to the stock we brought from England, so that I was +well pleased with the effects of our stay at Chiloe, and prepared +to depart. I might certainly have done much more for my own +credit and the profit of my owners, had if not been for the +mismanagement of the officer in the pinnace.</p> + +<p><i>Chiloe</i> is the first of the Spanish possessions on the +coast of Chili, reckoning from the south; and, though it produces +neither gold nor silver, is a fine island, and is considered as +of great consequence; insomuch that the Spaniards would be under +great apprehensions when strange ships enter its ports, did they +not confide in the number of its inhabitants, which is +extraordinary for this part of the world. The body of this island +is in lat. 42° 4' S. being about thirty leagues in length +from N. to S. and not above six or seven leagues from E. to +W.[259] It is watered by several rivers, and produces many kinds +of useful trees, yielding an agreeable prospect, by the great +number of Indian farms and plantations dispersed at small +distances from each other, on rising grounds among the woods. +Within this great island there is an archipelago or cluster of +smaller islands, the number of which is not well known; yet the +smallest of these is said to be well inhabited, and to abound in +cattle. Among these islands there are very uncertain and violent +currents, which are by no means safe. I would recommend all +strangers to go in at the north end of the great island, giving +the northern point of the island a good birth, and then to keep +the island side of the channel on board, running along shore to +the southward (eastward). Passing two bays, which seem +commodious, you come to a point, almost contiguous to which is a +high rock, somewhat like a pyramid; and passing between that rock +and a small high island near it, you run directly into a harbour +resembling the mouth of a river, which forms a safe anchorage. In +going in, take care not to come nearer shore than having the +depth of five fathoms, as the nearer to the small island the less +water; wherefore keep the lead going, and be bold with the shore +towards the north side of the harbour, which has the greatest +depth, while the south side is shoaly.[260]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 259: Chiloe reaches from lat. 41° 50' +to 43° 50', both S. and from long. 73° 18' to 74° +24', both W. extending 135 English miles in extreme length, by 35 +in medium breadth. See vol. V. p. 592, for an account of the +Archipelago of Chiloe.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 260: Shelvocke seems here to describe the +harbour leading to the town or village of San +Carlos.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>My pilot carried me the contrary way to that here directed, +advising me to keep near the main land of Chili, which I did till +I got to <i>Carelampo</i> Point, having several small islands to +the southward of my course, which proved unfortunate for me by +the loss of my anchor. The soil of Chiloe is very fertile, +producing all sorts of European fruits and grains, and has fine +pasture lands, in which great numbers of cattle are grazed, +particularly sheep. The air is wholesome and temperate; yet I +suspect the winter may be rigorous, being bounded on the west by +an immense ocean, without any land to screen it from the cold +moist vapours brought thither by the tempestuous westerly winds, +which generally reign in these latitudes, and which must render +it uncomfortable in the winter months, as the parallels of +latitude to the south of the equator are much colder than those +in the same degrees to the northwards.</p> + +<p>In this island they have abundance of very handsome +middle-sized horses, which the natives are said to manage with +great dexterity. They have also an animal, called <i>guanaco</i> +or <i>carneso de tierra</i>, that is, sheep of the country, which +very much resembles a camel, but not nearly so large. They have +long necks, and I have seen one of them between five and six feet +high. Their wool or soft hair is very fine. They smell very rank, +and move with a very slow majestic pace, which hardly any +violence can make them quicken; yet they are of great service at +the mines in Peru, where they are employed in carrying the ore +and other things. Their flesh is very coarse, as we experienced, +having salted some of them for our future use. Besides these, the +inhabitants have European sheep and great numbers of hogs, but +not many black cattle. The island has plenty of fowls, both wild +and tame. Among the former is a small species of goose, found on +the banks of the rivers, which are beautifully white, and of an +excellent taste. The tame poultry are of the same kinds with our +own.</p> + +<p>The natives are almost in all respects the same with those on +the continent of Chili, of moderate stature, with deep olive +complexions, and coarse shaggy black hair, some of them having by +no means disagreeable features. They seem naturally of fierce and +warlike dispositions; but the oppressions of the Spaniards, and +the artifices of the jesuits, who are the missionaries in these +parts, have curbed and broken their spirits. Frezier says, that +the Indians on the continent, to the southward of this island, +are called <i>Chonos</i>, who go quite naked; and that there is a +race of men of extraordinary size in the inland parts of the +country, called <i>Cacahues</i>,[261] who are in amity with the +<i>Chonos</i>, and sometimes accompany them to the Spanish +settlements in Chiloe. Frezier says, that he has been credibly +informed by eye-witnesses, that some of these were about nine or +ten feet high. I had sight of two of these Indians, who came from +the southward of St Domingo river, one of whom was a cacique, who +did not seem to me to differ in their persons from the ordinary +natives of Chiloe. They were decently clothed in <i>ponchos, +monteras</i>, and <i>poulains</i>. The <i>poncho</i> is a sort of +square carpet, having a slit or hole cut in the middle, wide +enough to slip over the head, so that it hangs down over the +shoulders, half before and half behind, under which they +generally wear a short doublet. On their heads they have a +<i>montera</i>, or cap nearly like those of our postillions, and +their legs are covered by the <i>poulains</i>, a kind of knit +buskins, or hose without feet. In short, their appearance has +little or none of the savage. Their habitations are firmly built +of planks, but have no chimneys, so that they are very black and +sooty within.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 261: See an account of the native tribes, +inhabiting the southern extremity of South America, vol. V. p. +401.]</blockquote> + +<p>They inclose some of their land for cultivation, by means of +rails or paling; and although they have plenty of every thing +necessary to a comfortable subsistence, they have no bread, from +wanting mills in which to grind and prepare their wheat They use +a miserable substitute, making a kind of cakes of sea-weeds, +which from use is much esteemed by them, and was not even +disliked by some of our men. Besides this, they prepare their +maize in several manners to answer the purpose of bread, and they +use potatoes and other roots with the same intention. They +prepare a liquor called <i>chicha</i> from their Indian corn, in +imitation of their neighbours on the continent of Chili; but the +Spaniards endeavor to curb their propensity to the use of this +liquor, as their drinking bouts have often occasioned seditions +and revolts. Such of the natives as have no European weapons, use +pikes, darts, and other arms of the country. Among these is a +running noose on a long leathern thong, called a <i>lays</i>, +which they use with surprising dexterity for catching cattle, +horses, or other animals, even when at full career. From all that +I could see of the natives of Chiloe, or hear respecting the +Chilese, they seem to resemble each other in all things, which is +not wonderful, considering the near neighbourhood of this island +to the continent of Chili. They use small drums, the heads of +which are made of goats skins with the hair on, and give a very +dull sound.</p> + +<p>The natives of Chiloe carry on a small woollen manufacture, +consisting of <i>ponchoes</i> and other articles of clothing, +formerly mentioned. They also export considerable quantities of +cedar, both in plank, and wrought up into boxes, chests, desks, +and the like, with which they supply all Chili and Peru. They +have no European trade; but the Spaniard who came to me from the +governor expressed his astonishment that no trading ships ever +put in there, saying they had plenty of money among them, with a +safe port, free from the danger of going to the northward among +the Spanish ships of war; as a great deal of business might be +done here, before intelligence could be sent as far as Lima, and +the ships could be fitted out and sent so great a way to +wind-ward. It is observed of the Chilese, that, differing from +all other nations ever heard of, they have no notion of a Supreme +Being, and consequently have no kind of worship; and they are +such enemies to civil society that they never live together in +towns and villages, so that their country seems thinly inhabited, +though very populous, the whole nation being dispersed in farms +at a good distance, every family having its own plantation, and +raising its own necessaries.</p> + +<p>Though thus scattered, they are not wholly independent, each +tribe being subject to a chief, called a cacique, whose dwelling +is conveniently situated among them, for the more speedy +summoning them together on affairs of importance. This is done by +the sound of a sort of horn, on hearing which all his vassals +repair to him without delay. The chief commands them in war, and +has an absolute power of dispensing justice among his subjects, +who all consider themselves as his relations, he being as it were +the head of his family, and his authority hereditary. In all +these respects the inhabitants of Chiloe resemble their +neighbours on the continent, excepting that their caciques are +stript in a great measure of their power and influence, by the +tyranny of the Spaniards, who keep them under the most servile +slavery, while the missionaries blind them by a superstitious and +imperfect conversion to Christianity, of which not one of these +natives know any thing more than merely that they were baptized; +all their devotion consisting of mere idolatry of the cross, or +the images of saints; for the Spanish clergy use no manner of +pains to enlighten their minds, but probably think it better, by +keeping them in ignorance, to make them more contented under the +rigorous government of the Spaniards. Under this delusion, the +caciques have changed their lawful prerogatives for the vain +ostentation of being allowed to wear a silver-headed cane, which +places them on a footing outwardly with a Spanish captain. Yet +have they sometimes rebelled against their proud oppressors, +deeming death preferable to slavery, as may be seen in the +account of Frezier's voyage.</p> + +<p>The vessels used in Chiloe are peculiarly constructed, as, for +want of nails and other articles of iron, the planks of which +their boats are constructed are sewed together very ingeniously +with oziers. These boats are all constructed of three pieces +only, the keel or bottom being one piece, and the sides two +others; and they are rowed with oars, in the same manner as with +us, more or fewer according to their size.</p> + +<p>Having nothing farther to detain us in Chiloe, I determined +upon proceeding to the island of Juan Fernandez, as directed in +my instructions; but my men took it into their heads that great +things might be done by a short trip to the Bay of Conception, to +which also they were induced by the Frenchman who persuaded us to +come to Chiloe. He pretended that there were always five or six +ships in the road of Conception, besides others daily coming in +or going out, and that these had often both ways considerable +sums of money or silver, with other valuable things, on board; +and, though large ships, they were of little or no force, neither +were there any fortifications at that place to protect them; so +that we could not meet any opposition in taking them, even if +there were twenty sail. He said their, cargoes consisted chiefly +of corn, wine, brandy, flour, and jerked beef; and that the ships +bound for Conception always brought money to purchase their +cargoes; besides that considerable booty might be made for rich +trading passengers, who carry on a considerable trade over land +between Conception and Buenos Ayres. He also alleged, that we +could not fail of having any ships we might take ransomed; and +that we should certainly make our fortunes, if we could only +reach Conception before they had notice of our being in these +seas. This man therefore advised my people to endeavour to +prevail on me to make the best of my way to Conception, before +the governor of Chiloe could send our deserter thither; after +which all the coast would be alarmed, and we should have no +opportunity of meeting with any thing till the Spaniards had +imagined we were gone from the South Sea.</p> + +<p>In similar cases, all are fond of delivering their sentiments; +and, as it is impossible to keep a ship's company in so much awe +in so remote a part as in short voyages, my men did not fail to +speak their minds somewhat insolently. One William Morphew, who +had been in these seas several years, took upon him to tell me, +that it did not signify much if we arrived two or three days +sooner or later at Juan Fernandez. He said also, that I was a +stranger here, but the Frenchman and he were well acquainted with +these seas, and every body hoped I would be advised to go to +Conception; hoping I would not put a mere punctilious adherence +to orders in balance against so fair a prospect, or almost +certainty of success, if we arrived there in time. In short, they +all assured me that they had the interest of the proprietors in +view, as much as their own, and that they would perish sooner +than injure them in any respect. They said at the same time, if I +had not success in my proceedings nobody could be blamed but +myself, and entreated me not to let slip this opportunity, in +which they would stand by me with all fidelity.</p> + +<p>On our way to Conception, we made the islands of Mocha and St +Mary on the 23d December, and arrived that same evening in the +Bay of Conception, but could not be certain whether there were +any ships in the road. I immediately gave orders to man and arm +our boats and sent them up that same night, in order to surprise +any ships that might be there; and with strict orders, if they +found them too strong, to endeavour to prevent them from sending +any thing on shore till I were able to work the ship up to them. +This I endeavoured to do all night, but to very little purpose; +for at day-light next morning I could not discern any thing above +us. Captain Hately returned about noon of the 24th, informing me +that he had taken a ship of about 150 tons, lately arrived from +Baldivia, and having only a few cedar plants on board, with no +person in her but the boatswain, an old negro, and two Indian +boys. He had left her in the charge of Mr Brooks, my first +lieutenant, with orders to bring her down the first opportunity; +and had taken, while on his return, a small vessel, of about +twenty-five tons, near the island <i>Quiri-quinie</i>, which lies +in the harbour or bay of Conception, where this small vessel had +been taking in pears, cherries, and other fruits, to sell at +Conception. Immediately after taking this small vessel, I could +perceive with my glass another small boat come in between the +islands of <i>Quiri-quinie</i> and <i>Talgaguana</i>, passing +within pistol-shot of my pinnace, and yet Captain Hately did not +engage her. For this his only excuse, after he came on board, +was, that he did not mind her; though our boat's crew said she +was full of men.</p> + +<p>On the 26th about noon, Mr Brooks brought down the prize, and +anchored about half a mile short of us. The boatswain of this +prize had not been two hours in the Speed-well, till he told us +of a vessel, laden with wine, brandy, and other valuable things, +riding at anchor in the Bay of Herradura, about two leagues to +the north of us, and bound for Chiloe. On receiving this +information, I ordered Mr Randal, my second lieutenant, with +twenty five men, to go in the Mercury, which name we gave to the +captured flour bark, and, accompanied by the Spanish boatswain of +the other prize, to go in search of the vessel in the Bay of +Herradura, with positive orders not to land or to make any other +hazardous attempt. But they returned next evening with the +following melancholy story.</p> + +<p>On getting into the bay, they found the vessel hauled dry +ashore, when Randal ordered his people to land and bring away +what they could find in her, while he and three or four more kept +the bark afloat. The people found the bark empty, but seeing a +small house hard by, they suspected her cargo might be lodged +there, and the inferior officer along with them ordered them to +examine that house. The poor fellows went accordingly, without +any officer at their head, and without any regard to order, every +one endeavouring to be foremost. Their career was soon stopped, +as they had hardly got beyond the top of the bank when they +discovered the enemy coming furiously towards them. Some of the +seamen were of opinion they might have retreated at this time in +safety, if they had not been astonished at the strange manner in +which they were attacked, by a number of horses galloping up to +them without riders, which caused them for some time to stand +amazed, not knowing what way to proceed; but on a little +reflection they bestirred themselves to make the best of their +way to the Mercury, in which they all succeeded except five, who +were made prisoners. Fortunately for them, the Mercury had by +some accident got aground, or they must all have been cut off, as +the Spaniards thought fit to retire on getting within musket-shot +of the Mercury. They now got the bark afloat, but as the water +was still very low, and they were obliged in going out of the bay +to keep very near to a point of land, the Spaniards galled them +from that point, under the shelter of the wood. They soon passed +this point, having a fair wind, all lying close in the bottom of +the bark, so that on this occasion only one man was wounded, who +was shot through the thigh. The Spaniards came down upon them in +this affair after the following singular manner. They were +preceded by twenty or more horses abreast, two deep, and linked +together, behind which extraordinary van-guard came the enemy on +horseback, lying on the necks of their horses, and driving the +others before them, never seen to sit up on their saddles, except +to fire their muskets, or when there was no danger. When they got +near our people, they threw their <i>lays</i> or running nooses +to catch them, and accordingly ensnared James Daniel, one of my +foremast-men, who was a good way into the water, and whom they +dragged out again at the rate of ten knots. The Spaniards in +Chili are universally dexterous in the use of this running noose, +for I have seen a Spaniard bring a man up by the foot as he ran +along the deck, and they are sure of any thing they fling at, at +the distance of several fathoms.</p> + +<p>These misfortunes and disappointments made my crew extremely +uneasy, and might have had bad consequences, if we had not been +agreeably surprised by seeing a large ship coming round the +northern point of the island of <i>Quiri-quinie</i>.[262] It was +at this time almost dark, so that her people could not perceive +what we were, and stood on therefore without fear, so that she +came towards us, and was taken without resistance. This ship +proved to be the St Fermin, of about 300 tons, last from +<i>Cadaco</i>,[263] having only a small cargo, consisting of +sugar, molasses, rice, coarse French linen, some woollen cloth +and bays of Quito, a small quantity of chocolate, and about five +or six thousand dollars in money and wrought plate. I sent Mr +Hendric, the owners agent, to inspect her cargo, and to order +every thing of value out of her into the Speedwell, and the +ship's company sent their agent likewise. They returned in the +afternoon, bringing all the bales, boxes, chests, portmanteaus, +and other packages, with a large quantity of sugar, molasses, and +chocolate, and about seventy hundred weight of good rusk, with +all her other stores and eatables. Don Francisco Larragan, the +captain of this ship, begged to be allowed to ransom her, which I +willingly consented to, and allowed him to go in his own launch +to Conception to raise the money, accompanied by a merchant, one +of the prisoners.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 262: A small island in the entrance of the +Bay of Conception.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 263: Callao, or the port of Lima, is +perhaps here meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the mean time we were very busy in searching the prize, +lest any thing might have been concealed; and every one who came +at any time from the St Fermin was strictly searched by some of +our people appointed for the purpose, that they might not +appropriate any thing of value. Our carpenter also was employed +in making a slight spar-deck over the Mercury, as she might be of +great use while cruizing along the coast. On the 30th December a +boat came off to us with a flag of truce from the governor of +Conception, and an officer, who acquainted us that two of our +people, taken in the late skirmish, were still alive, but very +much wounded. He brought also a present of seven jars of very +good wine, and a letter from Don Gabriel Cano, the governor, in +which he demanded to see my commission, as also that I should +send ashore Joseph de la Fontaine, who had been servant to one of +the mates belonging to Captain La Jonquiere, and some other +things that I thought unreasonable, engaging to enter into a +treaty, if I would comply with these requisitions. At length a +formal treaty was begun, in which I demanded 16,000 dollars for +the ransom of the St Fermin alone, while they offered only 12,000 +for both the ships and the bark. Finding all his Spanish +<i>puncto</i> tended only to entrap us, I set fire to the +Solidad, one of our prizes; and, giving them time to comply with +my proposals it they would, I set the St Fermin also on fire.</p> + +<p>We sailed from the bay of Conception on the 7th January, 1720, +intending for Juan Fernandez; and on the 8th we observed the sea +to be entirely of a red colour, occasioned, as the Spaniards say, +by the spawn of the <i>camarones</i>, or pracous. On the 9th, the +plunder taken in the St Fermin was sold by the ship's agent at +the mart, and brought extravagant prices. The account being +taken, and the shares calculated, the people insisted for an +immediate distribution, which was made accordingly, and each +foremast-man had after the rate of ten dollars a share, in money +and goods. On the 11th we saw the island of Juan Fernandez; and +at noon it bore from us five leagues W.S.W. the meridional +distance from Conception being 275 miles[264] W. From that day to +the 15th, I stood off and on, waiting for my boats which were +employed in fishing. In this time I sent the Mercury ashore to +stop her leaks, while the boats caught so many fish, that we +salted the fill of five puncheons. I could find no marks of +Captain Clipperton having been here for a long time; but at +length some of my men saw accidentally the words <i>Magee</i> and +Captain John cut upon a tree. Magee was the name of Clipperton's +surgeon, but no directions were left, as agreed upon in his +instructions to me, so that it was evident he never meant I +should keep him company, or ever join him again.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 264: The difference of longitude between +Conception and Juan Fernandez is six degrees of longitude W. and, +consequently, 360 minutes or marine miles.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Being by this certified of the arrival of Clipperton in the +South Sea, I directly made the best of my way from Juan +Fernandez, being in a pretty good condition as to provisions, by +the additional stock of fish caught here, all our casks being +filled. On the 21st, while sailing along there with the design of +looking into <i>Copiapo</i>, I put Mr Dodd, second lieutenant of +marines, into the Mercury, with a reinforcement of eight men, and +sent her next evening to cruize close in with the land, while I +kept with the Speedwell in the offing, to prevent being +discovered from the land. On this occasion I took care to give +the officer commanding the Mercury a copy of my commission, with +all necessary instructions how to proceed, appointing the +<i>Moro</i>, or head-land of Copiapo, to be our place of meeting. +The business of the Mercury was to look into the port of Copiapo, +called <i>Caldera</i>,[265] near which there are some gold-mines, +and from whence considerable quantities of gold are exported in +small vessels; and our bark had the advantage of being of that +country build, so that she could not excite suspicion. Next day I +hove in sight of the head-land of Copiapo, and lay to the +southward, that I might not be seen from that port, which is to +the northward of the <i>Moro de Copiapo</i>. While here, opposite +a small island which lies athwart the mouth of Copiapo river, I +sent the pinnace to fish between that isle and the main, and soon +after saw a vessel crowding all sail towards us. She at first +seemed too large for the Mercury, yet turned out to be her; when +the officer told me he had looked into the port, but could see no +shipping; but he had looked into a wrong place, and having made +him sensible of his error, I sent him again to the right place, +which was about six leagues farther north.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 265: The port of Caldera, or English +harbour, is about twelve or fifteen miles to the N. of Copiapo +river, having a considerable interposed +promontory.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Next morning our pinnace returned, bringing only a few +penguins which she had taken on the island in the bay of Copiapo. +The Mercury had looked into Caldera, but saw nothing; and instead +of making use of the land-wind to come off to me, had kept along +shore in the bottom of the bay till the land-wind came in so +strong that she was nearly lost on the lee-shore. On the 27th, I +sent Mr Brooks, my first lieutenant, and Mr Rainor, first +lieutenant of marines, to relieve Mr Randal and Mr Dodd in the +Mercury, which I had fitted with a gang of oars, and, upon trial, +she was found to make way at the rate of three knots, which might +render her extremely useful in a calm. The 5th February, I +dispatched Mr Brooks ahead in the Mercury, to see if there were +any ships in the harbour of Arica, in lat. 18° 26' S. and +next day, at one p.m. having ranged along shore, by the breakers +of <i>Pisagua, Camarones</i>, and <i>Victor</i>, I got sight of +the head-land of Arica, with a ship at anchor on its northern +side, and saw the Mercury standing out of the bay, by which I +judged the ship was too warm for her, and therefore made all +haste to get up to her with the Speedwell. On coming up, we found +that the ship was already taken, and the Mercury only +accidentally adrift. This prize was called the Rosario, of 100 +tons, laden with cormorants dung, which they use for manuring the +land which produces the cod-pepper, or <i>Capsicum</i>, from the +cultivation of which they make a vast profit in the vale of +Arica. The only white face in this ship was the pilot, whom I +sent ashore to see if the owner would ransom his ship, the cargo +being worth gold to them, but entirely useless to us. Next +morning I received a letter from Miguel Diaz Gonzale, the owner +of the ship, insisting pitifully on his poverty and distress, +having a large family to provide for, and promising to meet me at +Hilo or Quaco, to treat for a ransom.</p> + +<p>We soon after took a small bark of ten tons, laden with +<i>guana</i>, or cormorants dung, and having also some dried +fish, which lay within a mile of Arica. By this time all the +adjacent country was up in arms, and great numbers had come down +to the coast, well mounted and armed, and seemingly well +disciplined. To try their courage, I ordered the Mercury and +launch to draw near the shore, as if we had really intended to +land, though the landing-place here is altogether impracticable +for European boats; and I also cannonaded the town briskly. Our +balls made no execution, yet ploughed up the sand in front of the +Spanish horse, throwing it all over them: But neither this, nor +the approach of my small craft, made any impression, for they +stood firm, and at least shewed the countenance of as good troops +as could be wished. This much disappointed me, as it shewed my +men that the Spaniards were far from being cowards, as they had +been represented. As soon as it was dark, Gonzales came off to +me, and I agreed to let him have back his ship and six negroes on +receiving 1500 dollars, reserving right to take any thing out of +her that might be useful to us; and at ten next night he brought +me the agreed sum, being the weight of 1300 dollars in ingots of +virgin silver, called <i>pinnas</i> by the Spaniards, and the +rest in coined dollars. He also made great enquiry for English +commodities, for which he offered high prices, complaining that +the French only supplied them with paltry goods and mere trifles, +for which they carried off vast sums. He added, that he supposed +the English merchants were all asleep, or too rich, as they did +not come near them: And, although their ports were not so open as +in other parts of the world, they yet know how to manage matters +tolerably well; and that their governors, being generally +Europeans, who seldom remained above three years in the country, +used any means to improve their time, and could easily be gained +so as to act very obligingly. He said much more as to the +blindness of the English, in suffering the French pedlars to +carry on, uninterruptedly, the most considerable branch of +traffic in the world. Before leaving me, he desired me to carry +his ship two or three leagues out to sea, and then to turn her +adrift, on purpose to deceive the governor and the king's +officers; and, if I would meet him at <i>Hilo</i> (<i>Ilo</i>,) +about twenty-five leagues to the north-westwards, he would +purchase from me any coarse goods I had to dispose of, which +might be done there with all imaginable secrecy. At this time +also, the master of the small bark came off in a <i>balsa</i>. +This is an odd sort of an embarkation, consisting of two large +seal skins, separately blown up, like bladders, and made fast to +pieces of wood. On this he brought off two jars of brandy and +forty dollars; which, considering his mean appearance, was as +much as I could expect. One part of his cargo was valuable, being +a considerable quantity of excellent dried fish.</p> + +<p>The port of <i>Arica</i>, formerly so famous for the great +quantities of silver shipped from thence, is now much diminished +in its riches, and appears mostly a heap of ruins, except the +church of St Mark, and two or three more, which still look +tolerably well. What helps to give it a very desolate appearance +is, that the houses near the sea are only covered with mats. +Being situated on the sea-shore, in an open roadstead, it has no +fortifications of any kind to defend or command the anchorage, +the Spaniards thinking it sufficiently secured by the heavy surf, +and the rocky bottom near the shore, which threaten inevitable +destruction to any European boats, or other embarkation, except +what is expressly contrived for the purpose, being the +<i>balsas</i> already mentioned. To obstruct the landing of an +enemy, the Spaniards had formerly a fort and entrenchments, +flanking the storecreeks; but being built of unburnt bricks, it +is now fallen to ruins. In 1680, when Dampier was here, being +repulsed before the town, the English landed at the creek of +<i>Chacota,</i> to the south of the head-land, whence they +marched over the mountain <i>(Gordo)</i> to plunder Arica. +Earthquakes also, which are frequent here, have at last ruined +the town, and Arica is now no more than a little village of about +150 families, most of them negroes, mulattoes, and Indians, with +very few whites. On the 26th November, 1605,[266] the sea, +violently agitated by an earthquake, suddenly overflowed, and +broke down the greatest part of the town, and the ruins of its +streets are to be seen at this day. What remains of Arica is not +now liable to such an accident, being situated on a little rising +ground at the foot of the head-land. Most of the houses are only +constructed of a sort of fascines, made of flags or sedges, bound +together, called <i>totora</i>, set up on end, crossed by canes +and leather thongs; or are made of canes set on end, having the +intervals filled with earth. The use of unburnt bricks is +reserved for churches and the stateliest houses; and as no rain +ever falls here, they are only covered with mats, so that the +houses seem all in ruins when seen from the sea. The parish +church, dedicated to St Mark, is handsome enough. There are also +three religious houses, one a monastery of seven or eight +<i>mercenarians</i>, a second is an hospital of the brothers of +<i>St John of God</i>, and the third a monastery of Franciscans, +who formerly had a house a short way from town, in the +pleasantest part of the vale, near the sea.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 266: Perhaps this date ought to have been +1705.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The vale of Arica is about a league wide next the sea, all +barren ground except where the old town stood, which is divided +into small fields of clover, some small plantations of +sugar-canes, with olive-trees and cotton-trees intermixed, and +several intervening marshes, full of the sedges of which they +build their houses. Growing narrower about a league eastward at +the village of <i>St Michael de Sapa</i>, they begin to cultivate +the <i>agi</i>, or Guinea pepper, which culture extends over all +the rest of the vale, in which there are several detached farms +exclusively devoted to its culture. In that part of the vale, +which is very narrow, and about six leagues long, they raise +yearly to the value of above 80,000 crowns. The Spaniards of Peru +are so much addicted to this spice, that they dress no meat +without it, although so hot and biting that no one can endure it, +unless accustomed to its use; and, as it cannot grow in the +<i>Puna</i>, or mountainous country, many merchants come down +every year, who carry away all the Guinea pepper that grows in +the districts of <i>Arica, Sama, Taena, Locumba</i>, and others, +ten leagues around, from all of which it is reckoned they export +yearly to the value of 600,000 dollars, though sold cheap. It is +hard to credit that such vast quantities should go from hence, as +the country is so parched up, except the vales, that nothing +green is to be seen. This wonderful fertility is produced by the +dung of fowls, which is brought from <i>Iquique</i>, and which +fertilizes the soil in a wonderful manner, making it produce four +or five hundred for one of all sorts of grain, as wheat, maize, +and so forth, but particularly of this <i>agi</i>, or Guinea +pepper, when rightly managed. When the plants are sufficiently +grown in the seed-bed to be fit for transplanting, they are set +out in winding lines like the letter S, that the furrows for +conveying the water may distribute it equally to the roots of the +plants. They then lay about the root of each plant of Guinea +pepper as much <i>guana</i>, or bird's dung formerly mentioned, +as will lie in the hollow of the hand. When in blossom, they add +a little more; and, lastly, when the pods are completely formed, +they add a good handful more to each plant, always taking care to +supply them with water, as it never rains in this country; +otherwise, the salts contained in the manure, not being +dissolved, would burn the plants, as has been found by +experience. It is also for this reason that this manure is laid +on at different times, as already explained, the necessity of +which has been found by long use, and by the superior value of +the crops thus produced.</p> + +<p>For the carriage of this <i>guana</i>, or fowl's dung, the +people at Arica generally use that sort of little camels which +the Indians of Bern call <i>Llamas</i>, the Chilese, +<i>Chilihneque</i>, and the Spaniards, <i>Carneros de la +tierra</i>, or native sheep. The heads of these animals are small +in proportion to their bodies, and are somewhat in shape between +the head of a horse and that of a sheep, the upper lips being +cleft like that of a hare, through which they can spit to the +distance of ten paces against any one who offends them, and if +the spittle happens to fall on the face of a person, it causes a +red itchy spot. Their necks are long, and concavely bent +downwards, like that of a camel, which animal they greatly +resemble, except in having no hunch on their backs, and in being +much smaller. Their ordinary height is from four feet to four and +a half; and their ordinary burden does not exceed an +hundred-weight. They walk, holding up their heads with wonderful +gravity, and at so regular a pace as no beating can quicken. At +night it is impossible to make them move with their loads, for +they lie down till these are taken off, and then go to graze. +Their ordinary food is a sort of grass called <i>yeho</i>, +somewhat like a small rush, but finer, and has a sharp point, +with which all the mountains are covered exclusively. They eat +little, and never drink, so that they are very easily maintained. +They have cloven feet like sheep, and are used at the mines to +carry ore to the mills; and, as soon as loaded, they set off +without any guide to the place where they are usually unloaded. +They have a sort of spur above the foot, which renders them +sure-footed among the rocks, as it serves as a kind of hook to +hold by. Their hair, or wool rather, is long, white, grey, and +russet, in spots, and fine, but much inferior to that of the +Vicunna, and has a strong and disagreeable scent.</p> + +<p>The <i>Vicunna</i> is shaped much like the Llama, but much +smaller and lighter, their wool being extraordinarily fine and +much valued. These animals are often hunted after the following +manner: Many Indians gather together, and drive them into some +narrow pass, across which they have previously extended cords +about four feet from the ground, having bits of wool or cloth +hanging to them at small distances. This so frightens them that +they dare not pass, and gather together in a string, when the +Indians kill them with stones tied to the ends of leather thongs. +Should any <i>quanacos</i> happen to be among the flock, these +leap over the cords, and are followed by all the <i>vicunnas</i>. +These <i>quanacos</i> are larger and more corpulent, and are also +called <i>viscachas</i>. There is yet another animal of this +kind, called <i>alpagnes</i>, having wool of extraordinary +fineness, but their legs are shorter, and their snouts contracted +in such a manner as to give them some resemblance to the human +countenance. The Indians make several uses of these creatures, +some of which carry burdens of about an hundred-weight. Their +wool serves to make stuffs, cords, and sacks. Their bones are +used for the construction of weavers utensils; and their dung is +employed as fuel for dressing meat, and warming their huts.</p> + +<p>Before the last war, a small fleet called the <i>armadilla</i> +used to resort yearly to Arica, partly composed of kings ships, +and partly those of private persons. By this fleet, European +commodities were brought from Panama, together with quicksilver +for the mines of <i>La Paz, Oruro La Plata,</i> or <i>Chuguizaca, +Potosi</i>, and <i>Lipes</i>; and in return carried to Lima the +king's fifth of the silver drawn from the mines. Since the +galleons have ceased going to Porto-Bello, and the French have +carried on the trade of supplying the coast of the South Sea with +European commodities, Arica has been the most considerable mart +of all this coast, and to which the merchants of the five +above-mentioned rich, towns resort. It is true that the port of +<i>Cobija</i> is nearer <i>Lipes</i> and <i>Potosi</i>; but being +situated in a barren and desert country, where nothing can be +procured for the subsistence of man or beast, the merchants chuse +rather to go to Arica, though more distant, as they are sure to +find at that place every thing they need. Besides, they find no +great difficulty in bringing there their silver privately in a +mass, and compounding with the corregidores or chief magistrates +to avoid paying the royal fifth.</p> + +<p>On leaving Arica, we sailed for the road of Ilo, about 75 +miles to the N.W. where we arrived that same afternoon, and saw a +large ship with three small ones at anchor. The great ship +immediately hoisted French colours, being the <i>Wise Solomon</i> +of 40 guns, commanded by Mons. Dumain, who was resolved to +protect the vessels that were beside him, and to oppose my coming +into the road. As it grew dark before I could get into the road, +I sent my third lieutenant, Mr La Porte, a Frenchman, to inform +Mr Dumain who we were: But my officer no sooner got on board than +he was tumbled out again, the Frenchman calling him a renegado; +and Mr Dumain sent me word he would sink me if I offered to +anchor there. La Porte also told me, that to his knowledge the +French ships often accepted Spanish commissions, when there were +English cruizers on this coast, having great privileges in trade +allowed them for this service; and he could plainly see that the +French ship was double manned, by means of inhabitants from the +town, who were partly French; and, as he supposed, would come to +attack me as soon as the wind was off shore. While thus talking, +the French ship fired several guns at us, as if to shew that they +were ready, and meant shortly to be with us. At first, this +bravado heated me not a little, and I had some design of turning +the Mercury into a fire-ship, by the help of which I might have +roasted this insolent Frenchman: But, having reflected on the +situation of affairs at home, and fearing my attacking him might +be deemed unjustifiable, notwithstanding his unwarranted conduct, +I thought it best to stand out of the harbour.</p> + +<p>On the 12th February, the moiety of the money taken at Arica +was divided among the company according to their shares. On the +22d we found ourselves in the heights of <i>Calao,</i> the port +of Lima; on which I furled all my sails, resolving to get away in +the night; knowing, if we were discovered from thence, that we +should certainly be pursued by some Spanish men of war, as there +are always some in that port. On the 26th, the officers in the +Mercury desired to be relieved, and I spoke to Captain Hately, +whose turn it was to take the command of that bark. This +gentleman had been long a prisoner among the Spaniards in this +country, which he was well acquainted with, having travelled +between Payta and Lima by land, on which occasion he had observed +several rich towns, which made him conceive we might do something +to purpose, by cruizing along the coast, as far as the island of +Lobos, in lat. 7° S. I approved of this, as it was probable +we might meet some of the Panama ships, which always keep well in +with the land, in order to have the benefit of the land-breezes. +As the company of the Mercury seemed delighted with this project, +I augmented their complement, giving them a month's provisions on +board. I also lent Captain Hately my pinnace, mounted his bark +with two of our quarter-deck guns, and gave him a copy of my +commission, although it was very likely we should have frequent +sight of the Mercury, between our present intended separation, +and our intended rendezvous at the island of Lobos, not above +sixty leagues from where we then were.</p> + +<p>When every thing was ready for their departure, Captain +Betagh, whose turn it was to relieve the marine officer in the +Mercury, being unwilling to go, went among our people with a +terrified countenance, saying, that he and those with him in the +Mercury were going to be sacrificed. Hearing this, I addressed my +ship's company, telling them I could not conceive what this +pestilent fellow meant by making such an uproar. I appealed to +them all, if it had not been customary to relieve the officers in +this manner, ever since we had this vessel in company, and asked +them if ever they knew me select any man for going upon an +enterprise, and had not, on the contrary, left it always to their +own choice to go on any particular service out of the ship. I +then desired to know who among them were of Betagh's opinion? +Upon this, they all declared with one voice, that they had never +entertained any such opinion; but, on the contrary, that I should +always find them obedient to my commands. In the next place, I +ordered the Mercury along side, and acquainted her crew with the +speech Betagh had made in the Speedwell, and desired to know if +any of them were apprehensive of being sold or sacrificed. At +this they all set up a loud huzza, and requested they might go on +the intended cruize in the Mercury. Accordingly Hately and Betagh +went on board that bark, and put off from us, giving us three +cheers, and stood right in for the land.</p> + +<p>It may be proper to take some notice of the proceedings of the +Mercury after she left me, as I have been informed from some of +themselves and some prisoners. The very next day they took a +small bark laden with rice, chocolate, wheat, flour, and the +like; and the day following, another. On the 4th day, they took a +ship of near 200 tons, in which were 150,000 dollars. Flushed +with this success, Betagh prevailed upon Hately, and most of the +people in the Mercury, not to rejoin me, saying, they had now +enough to appear like gentlemen as long as they lived, but it +would be a mere nothing when the owner's part was taken out, and +the rest divided into 500 shares. He therefore thought, since +fortune had been so kind to them, they ought to make the best of +their way to India, as they had sufficient provisions and all +other requisites for the voyage, and Captain. Hately was well +able to conduct them to some port in the East Indies. This plan +was accordingly resolved on, and they fell to leeward of the +place of rendezvous. But, weighing with himself the prodigious +extent of the run, and its many hazards, and well knowing the +treatment he might expect in India, if his treachery were +discovered, Captain Hately became irresolute, and could not +determine what was best to be done, so that he kept hovering on +the coast. In the mean time, some of his crew went away in his +boat to surrender themselves to the enemy, rather than be +concerned in such a piratical undertaking. Betagh and his +accomplices still kept Hately warm with liquor, and at length +brought him to the resolution of leaving the South Sea. But they +had no sooner clapped their helm a-weather for this purpose than +they saw a sail standing towards them, which proved to be a +Spanish man of war, which caught them, and spoilt their India +voyage. The English prisoners were very indifferently used; but +Betagh, being a Roman Catholic, and of a nation which the +Spaniards are very fond of,[267] was treated with much respect, +and was even made an officer.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 267: He seems to have been a Fleming, taken +on board at Ostend, when the voyage was originally intended to +have proceeded under an imperial commission.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the morning of the 29th February, we saw a vessel at anchor +in the road of <i>Guanchaeo</i>, and anchored alongside of her at +eleven a.m. She was called the Carmasita, of about 100 tons, +having only two Indian men and a boy on board, and her only +loading was a small quantity of timber from Guayaquil. From these +prisoners, I was informed of a rich ship being in the cove of +Payta, having put in there to repair some damage she had +sustained in a gale of wind. On this information I put +immediately to sea, but in purchasing our anchor, the cable +parted, and we lost our anchor. Our prize being new and likely to +sail well, I took her with us, naming her the St David, designing +to have made her a complete fire-ship as soon as we should be +rejoined by the Mercury, in which there were materials for that +purpose. Next day we looked into Cheripe, whence we chased a +small vessel, which ran on shore to avoid us. Next morning, being +near Lobos, our appointed rendezvous with the Mercury, I sent +ashore my second lieutenant, Mr Randal, with two letters in +separate bottles, directing Captain Hately to follow me to Payta, +to which port I now made the best of my way, and arrived before +it on the 18th of March, and sent Mr Randal to look into the +cove, to bring me an account of what ships were there, that I +might know what to think of the information we had received from +our prisoners.</p> + +<p>On the 21st, I steered directly in for the cove of Payta, +which I entered under French colours about four in the afternoon. +We found only a small ship there, of which Mr Brooks took +possession in the launch. About seven p.m. we came to anchor +within three quarters of a mile of the town. The town seemed to +be moderately large and populous, and there might probably be +some land-forces for its defence, being the rendezvous of the +ships which trade between Panama and Caloa; yet, as the taking of +this place was treated in our instructions as a matter of +importance, I consulted with my officers as to the best manner of +making the attempt. Leaving the charge of the ship with the +master, Mr Coldsea, and a few hands, to look after the negroes we +had on board, and with orders to bring the ship nearer to the +town, for the more expeditiously embarking any plunder we might +make; I landed with forty-six men, well armed, about two in the +morning of the 22d, and marched directly up to the great church +without the slightest opposition, for we found the town entirely +deserted by the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>At day-light, we observed large bodies of men on the hills, on +both sides of the town, which we expected would have come down to +attack us; but, on marching up towards them, they retired before +us. Hitherto we had taken no prisoners, except an old Indian and +a boy, who told us that Captain Clipperton had been here some +time before, and had set some prisoners ashore, who assured them +he meant not to do them any injury; but that the inhabitants, not +thinking fit to trust him, had removed all their valuable effects +into the mountains, among which were 400,000 dollars belonging to +the king, which had been a fine prize for Clipperton, who +certainly would have found no greater difficulty in taking this +town than I did.</p> + +<p>I was constrained suddenly to halt, in consequence of hearing +a gun fired from the ship, soon after which word was brought me +that she was ashore. I hurried off as fast as I could, carrying +with us the union-flag, which I had planted in the church-yard; +and, as we were re-embarking, the enemy came running down the +hill, hallooing after us. When I got on board, I found the ship +entirely afloat, but within her own breadth of the rocks; and, as +the water was quite smooth, we soon warped her off again. We then +returned to the town, whence the Spaniards retired as peaceably +as before. The remainder of the day was employed in shipping off +what plunder we could find, which consisted of hogs, brown and +white <i>calavances</i>, beans, Indian corn, wheat, flour, sugar, +and as many <i>cocoa nuts</i>[268] as we were able to stow away, +together with pans and other conveniences for preparing it, so +that we were now amply provided with excellent breakfast meat for +the rest of our voyage, and were, besides, full of other +provisions.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 268: Cacao, chocolate-nuts, are almost +certainly here meant.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At eight in the morning of the 23d, a messenger came in to +know what ransom I would take for the town and the ship, for +which I demanded 10,000 dollars in twenty-four hours. At eight +next morning, I had a letter from the governor, signifying, that +as I wrote in French, neither he nor any one about him could +understand its contents; but if I would write in Latin or +Spanish, I might depend on a satisfactory answer. In the +afternoon, I sent for one of our quarter-deck guns on shore, +which was mounted at our guard, and was fired at sun-set, +midnight, and break of day. The messenger returned in the morning +of the 24th, accompanied by the master of the ship we had taken, +and on hearing of their arrival, I went on shore to know what +they had to propose. I understood from them that the governor was +determined not to ransom the town, and did not care what become +of it, provided the churches were not burnt. Though I never had +any intention to destroy any place devoted to divine worship, I +answered that I should have no regard to the churches, or +anything else, when I set the town on fire; and I told the master +of the vessel, he might expect to see her in flames immediately, +if not ransomed without delay. This seemed to make a great +impression, and he promised to return in three hours with the +money. I then caused every thing to be taken out of the town that +could be of any use to us, after which I ordered the town to be +set on fire in several places; and, as the houses were old and +dry, it instantly became a bonfire.</p> + +<p>In the midst of this conflagration, the people in the +Speedwell made many signals for me to come on board, and kept +continually firing towards the mouths of the harbour. As I could +only guess the meaning of all this, I went on board as soon as +possible in a canoe, having only three men along with me. Before +I could reach the ship, I could distinctly see a large ship, with +a Spanish flag at her fore-topmast-head, and her fore-topsail +a-back. At this sight, two of my three men were ready to faint, +and if it had not been for my boatswain, I doubt if I should have +got on board; and if the Spanish admiral had acted with vigour, +he might have taken the ship long enough before I got to her. It +is bare justice to Mr Coldsea to say, that he fired so smartly on +the Spaniard as to induce him to act with great precaution, which +had been quite unnecessary if he had known our weakness. His +caution, however, gave me the opportunity of getting on board: +and, in the mean time, my officers were so unwilling to leave our +guard-gun ashore, that they spent a great while in getting it +into the boat, so that I was afraid the enemy would attack us +before our people could get on board. The Spaniard was, however, +in no hurry, thinking, no doubt, that we could not well escape +him, yet was within pistol-shot of us before the last of our men +got on board, being about fifty in all. We now cut our cable, but +our ship fell round the wrong way, so that I had just room enough +to fall clear of the enemy. Being now close together, the +formidable appearance of the enemy struck an universal damp on +the spirits of my people; some of whom, in coming off from the +shore, were for jumping into the water and swimming on shore, +which a few actually did.</p> + +<p>The enemy was a fine European-built ship, of 50 guns, and the +disproportion was so great between us, that there seemed no hopes +of escaping, as we were under his lee. I endeavoured to get into +shoal water, but he becalmed me with his sails, and confined us +for the best part of an hour, during which he handled us very +roughly with his cannon, making very little use of his +small-arms, never allowing us a moment's ease, but as soon as his +broadside was ready, he gave his ship the starboard helm, +bringing as many of his guns to bear as possible, and at the same +time kept me from the wind. We returned his fire as briskly as we +could; but, in our precipitate retreat from the town, most of our +small arms were wetted, so that it was long before they were of +any use. During this action, there was a strange contusion on +shore, where the people had flocked down from the hills to +extinguish the fire in Payta, in which some of them were busily +employed, while others stood on the shore, spectators of our +engagement. I was long in despair of getting away from the +Spaniard, expecting nothing less than to be torn in pieces by his +superior fire, unless we could have an opportunity of trying our +heels with him while our masts remained standing. I expected +every minute that he would board us, and hearing a hallooing +among them, and seeing their forecastle full of men, I concluded +that they had come to this resolution; but soon saw that it +proceeded from our ensign being shot down, on which I made +another be displayed in the mizen-shrouds, on sight of which they +lay snug as before, keeping close upon our quarter. Intending at +length to do our business at once, they clapped their helm hard +a-starboard, in order to bring their whole broadside to bear, but +their fire had little effect, and it muzzled themselves, which +gave us an opportunity to get away from them.</p> + +<p>This certainly was a lucky escape, after an engagement of +three glasses with an enemy so much our superior; for he had 56 +guns and 450 men, while we had only 20 guns mounted and only 73 +men, of whom 11 were negroes and two Indians. He had farther the +vast advantage over us of being in perfect readiness, while we +were in the utmost confusion; and in the middle of the +engagement, a third of my people, instead of fighting, were hard +at work in preparing for an obstinate resistance; particularly +the carpenter and his crew, who were busy in making port-holes +for stern-chase guns, which, as it happened, we made no use of. +Yet were we not unhurt, as the loss of my boat and anchor were +irreparable, and may be said to have been the cause of that scene +of trouble which fell upon us soon after; as we had now only one +anchor remaining, that lost at Payta being the third, and we had +not now a boat of any kind. I have since learnt that some of our +shots in the engagement were well directed, and that we killed +and wounded several of the enemy.</p> + +<p>Having thus got away from the <i>Peregrine</i>, I slipped off +in the evening with much ado from the Brilliant, her consort, on +board of which Betagh now was, and even desired to be the first +to board me. I was now in a very uncomfortable situation, not +having the smallest hope of meeting with the Success; and I had +learned at Payta, that the Spaniards had laid on an embargo for +six months, so that we had nothing to expect in the way of +prizes; and, having seen our prize taken, we had reason to expect +that all our designs were discovered by the enemy. Having now +only one anchor and no boat, it is not to be wondered that I gave +up all idea of making an attempt on Guayaquil, which I at first +proposed, having intelligence that there were several ships of +considerable value in that river, in consequence of the embargo, +which might have done me some service, if I had been better +provided. In this situation, it was resolved, in a committee of +my officers, to return to the southwards, or to windward, as the +Spaniards must necessarily continue their trade with Chili, in +spite of their embargo; after which we proposed to water at Juan +Fernandez, and then to cruize on the coast of Conception, +Valparaiso, and Coquimbo, for the coasting traders, among whom we +might supply ourselves with anchors, cables, and boats, and a +vessel to fit out as a fire-ship. I also proposed, before leaving +the coast of Chili, to make an attempt on La Serena or Coquimbo. +After all this, I proposed to proceed for the coast of Mexico, +and thence to the <i>Tres Marias</i> and California, as the most +likely means of meeting with the Success; besides which, the +former of these places might be commodious for salting turtle, to +serve as sea stores, and the latter for laying in a stock of wood +and water; after which we might lie in the track of the Manilla +ship. But if we could not succeed in that attempt, we might then +satisfy ourselves with cruizing for the Peruvian ships, which +bring silver to Acapulco for purchasing the Indian and Chinese +commodities.</p> + +<p>My plan being approved, we proceeded to windward, having +secured our masts and bent a new set of sails on the 26th, after +which we stood to the southward, expecting to make our passage in +about five weeks. The carpenters were now set to work to build a +new boat that we might have the means of watering our ship. On +the 31st, while working the pumps, the water not only came in in +greater quantity than usual, but was as black as ink, which made +me suspect some water had got at our powder; and on going into +the powder-room, I found the water rushing in like a little +sluice, which had already spoiled the greatest part of our +powder, only six barrels remaining uninjured, which I immediately +had stowed away in the bread-room. It pleased God that we now had +fair weather, as otherwise we might have had much difficulty to +keep our ship afloat. We found the leak on the larboard side, +under the lower cheek of the head, where a shot had lodged and +afterwards dropt out, leaving room for a stream of water. We +accordingly brought down our ship by the stern, and secured the +leak effectually. At this time we had an abundant stock of +provisions. Each man had a quart of chocolate and three ounces of +rusk for breakfast; and had fresh meat or fresh fish every day +for dinner, having plenty of the latter about the ship, so that +we could almost always make our choice between dolphin and +albicore.</p> + +<p>On the 6th May we made the westermost of the islands of Juan +Fernandez, otherwise called <i>Mas a Fuero</i>, distant twelve +leagues N.E. by N. and the day after, our carpenters had +completed our new boat, which could carry three hogsheads. On the +12th we saw the great island of Juan Fernandez, bearing E. 1/2 S. +being in latitude, by observation, 33° 40' S. a joyful sight +at the time, though so unfortunate to us in the sequel. We plied +off and on till the 21st, but could not get as much water on +board daily in that time as supplied our daily expenditure, owing +to the smallness of our boat, which made it necessary for us to +anchor in the roads till that purpose was accomplished, in order +for which I prepared to raft twenty tons of casks on shore. We +worked in and anchored in forty fathoms, carrying a warp on +shore, which we fastened to the rocks, of three hawsers and a +half in length, which both steadied the ship, and enabled us to +haul our cask-raft ashore and aboard. By this means we were ready +to go to sea again next morning, having filled all our water +casks; but had no opportunity of so doing for four days, during +which we continued to anchor in the same manner.</p> + +<p>On the 25th May, a hard gale came upon us from seaward, +bringing with it a great tumbling swell, by which at length our +cable parted. This was a dismal accident, as we had no means +whatever by which to avoid the prospect of immediate destruction. +But Providence interposed in our behalf: For had we struck only a +cable's length to the east or west of where we did, we must all +have inevitably perished. When our ill-fated ship touched the +rock, we had all to hold fast by some part of the ship or +rigging, otherwise the violence of her shock in striking must +have tossed us all into the sea. Our three masts went all away +together by the board. In short, words are wanting to express the +wretched condition in which we now were, or our astonishment at +our unexpected and unfortunate shipwreck.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Residence on the Island of Juan Fernandez.</i></p> + +<p>Having all got on shore in the evening, my officers gathered +around me to bear me company, and to devise measures for +procuring necessaries out of the wreck; and having lighted a +fire, wrapped themselves up in what they could get, and slept +very soundly, notwithstanding the coldness of the weather, and +our hopeless situation. I would have set the people to work that +very night, in endeavouring to save what we could from the wreck, +but they were so dispersed that we could not gather them +together, and all opportunity was lost of saving any thing, +except some of our fire-arms. But while the people were employed +in building tents, and making other preparations for their +residence on the island, the wreck was entirely destroyed, and +every thing in her was lost, except one cask of beef and one of +<i>farina de pao</i>, which were washed on shore. Thus all our +provisions were gone, and every thing else that might have been +useful. I had saved 1100 dollars belonging to the owners, which +happened to be in my chest in the great cabin, all the rest of +their treasure being in the bottom of the bread-room for +security, which consequently could not be come at.</p> + +<p>I now took some pains to find out a convenient place in which +to set up my tent, and at length found a commodious spot of +ground not half a mile from the sea, having a fine stream of +water on each side, with trees close at hand for firing, and +building our huts. The people settled around me as well as they +could, and as the cold season was coming on, some thatched their +huts, while others covered theirs with the skins of seals and +sea-lions. Others again satisfied themselves with water-butts, in +which they slept under cover of trees. Having thus secured +ourselves from the weather, we used to pass our time in the +evenings around a great fire before my tent, where my officers +usually assembled, employing themselves in roasting cray-fish in +the embers; sometimes bewailing our unhappy fate, and sinking +into despondency; and at other times feeding ourselves with hopes +that something might yet be done to set us again afloat. On this +subject I first consulted with the carpenter, who answered, that +he could not make bricks without straw, and then walked from me +in a surly humour. From him I went to the armourer, and asked +what he could do for us in his way that might contribute to build +a small vessel. To this he answered, that he hoped he could do +all the iron work, as he had fortunately saved his bellows from +the wreck, with four or five <i>spadoes</i> or Spanish swords, +which would afford him steel, and there could be no want of iron +along shore; besides, that we should doubtless find many useful +things when we came to work in good earnest. He desired +therefore, that I would get some charcoal made for him, while he +set up his forge.</p> + +<p>Upon this encouragement, I called all hands together, and +explained to them the great probability there was of our being +able to build a vessel sufficient to transport us from this +island; but that it would be a laborious task, and must require +their united best endeavours. To this they all consented, and +promised to work with great diligence, begging me to give them +directions how to proceed. I then ordered the men who had axes on +shore, before the wreck, to cut wood for making charcoal, while +the rest went down to the wreck to get the boltsprit ashore, of +which I proposed to make the keel of our intended vessel; and I +prevailed on the carpenter to go with me, to fix upon the +properest place for building. The people found a great many +useful materials about the wreck; and among the rest the topmast, +which had been washed on shore, and was of the greatest +importance.</p> + +<p>We laid the blocks for building upon on the 8th June, and had +the boltsprit ready at hand to lay down as the keel; when the +carpenter turned short round upon me, and swore an oath that he +would not strike another stroke on the work, for he would be +slave to nobody, and thought himself now on a footing with +myself. I was at first angry, but came at length to an agreement +with him, to give him a four-pistole piece as soon as the stern +and stern-posts were up, and 100 dollars when the bark was +finished, and the money to be committed to the keeping of any one +he chose to name. This being settled, he went to work upon the +keel, which was to be thirty feet long; the breadth of our bark, +by the beam, sixteen feet, and her hold seven feet deep. In two +months we made a tolerable shew, owing in a great measure to the +ingenuity of Poppleston, our armourer, who never lost a minute in +working with his hands, or contriving in his head. He made us a +small double-headed maul, hammers, chisels, and a sort of +gimblets or wimbles, which performed very well. He even made a +bullet-mould, and an instrument to bore cartouch-boxes, which he +made from the trucks of our gun-carriages, covering them with +seal-skins, and contrived to make them not only convenient, but +neat. He contrived to execute any iron-work wanted by the +carpenter, and even finished a large serviceable boat, of which +we stood much in need.</p> + +<p>In the beginning of this great work the people behaved +themselves very well, half of them working regularly one day, and +the other half the next, seeming every day to grow easier under +our misfortunes. They treated me with as much respect as I could +wish, and even in a body thanked me for the prospect of their +deliverance; while I never failed to encourage them by telling +them stories of the great things that had been accomplished by +the united efforts of men in similar distresses. I always pressed +them to stick close to the work, that we might get our bark ready +in time; and told them that we fortunately had three of the best +ports in Chili within 120 leagues of us. This inspired them with +life and vigour, and they often declared that they would exert +their utmost endeavours to finish her with all expedition. At +last, however, we became a prey to faction, so that it was a +miracle we ever got off from this place. For, after completing +the most laborious part of the work, they entirely neglected it; +and many of my officers, deserting my society, herded with the +meanest of the ship's company. I was now convinced in a suspicion +I had long entertained, that some black design was in embryo; for +when I met any of my officers, and asked what they were about, +and the reason of their acting so contrary to their duty, by +diverting the people from their work, some used even to tell me +they knew not whether they would leave the island or not, when my +bundle of sticks was ready; that they cared not how matters went, +for they could shift for themselves as well as the rest. When I +spoke with the common men, some were surly, and others said they +would be slaves no longer, but would do as the rest did. In the +midst of these confusions, I ordered my son to secure my +commission in some dry place among the woods or rocks, +remembering how Captain Dampier had been served in these +seas.</p> + +<p>At length, I one afternoon missed all the people, except Mr +Adamson the surgeon, Mr Hendric the agent, my son, and Mr Dodd, +lieutenant of marines, which last feigned lunacy, for some reason +best known to himself. I learnt at night that they had been all +day assembled at the great tree, in deep consultation, and had +framed a new set of regulations and articles, by which the owners +in England were excluded from any share in what we might take for +the future, divested me of all authority as captain, and +regulated themselves according to the <i>Jamaica +discipline</i>.[269] Even the chief officers, among the rest, had +concurred in electing one Morphew to be their champion and +speaker, who addressed the assembly to the following purport: +"That they were now their own masters, and servants to none: and +as Mr Shelvocke, their former captain, took upon him still to +command, he ought to be informed, that whoever was now to be +their commander, must be so through their own courtesy. However, +that Mr Shelvocke might have the first offer of the command, if +the majority thought fit, but not otherwise. That Mr Shelvocke +carried himself too lofty and arbitrarily for the command of a +privateer, and ought to have continued in men-of-war, where the +people were obliged to bear all hardships quietly, whether right +or wrong."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 269: This expression is not explained, but +seems to have been, according to the model of the Buccaneers, all +prizes to be divided among the captors.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Some persons present, who had a regard for me, represented, +"That they had never seen or known me treat any one unjustly or +severely; and that however strict I might be, they had no one +else to depend upon, and that they ought all to consider how many +difficulties I had already brought them through. That, although +they were not now in the hands of our enemies, no one could tell +how soon others might come upon them: and, if they ever looked to +get back to England, there was no other way but by going round +the world, for which there was no one capable of undertaking the +charge except Captain Shelvocke. They ought also to consider his +commission, and the respect due to him on that account; besides +the protection that would afford them, should they happen to fall +into the hands of the Spaniards."</p> + +<p>This remonstrance had some effect on the common men, but they +were diverted from the thoughts of returning to obedience by no +less a person than my first lieutenant, Mr Brooks, who had made +Morphew his confidant even on board ship: for having served +before the mast before he was made my lieutenant, he had +contracted a liking for forecastle conversation. They were also +supported and encouraged by Mr Randal, my second lieutenant, who +was brother-in-law to Brooks, and by others. The first remarkable +outrage committed by this gang of levellers was to Mr La Porte, +my third lieutenant, whom Morphew knocked down on the beach, +while Brooks stood by and witnessed this brutality. This affair +came soon after to be fully explained; for the men framed a new +set of articles, putting themselves upon the Jamaica discipline, +and declaring, as I had been their captain, I might be so still; +and that they were willing to allow me six shares, as a mark of +their regard, though I ought only to have four, according to the +Jamaica articles. Most of the officers were reduced, according to +the same plan: for instance, Mr La Porte, Mr Dodu, and Mr Hendrie +were declared midshipmen; and as the superior officers consented +to this scheme, it could not be prevented from being carried into +execution. Mr Coldsea the master was the only person who +preserved a kind of neutrality, neither promoting nor opposing +their designs. In this distressed emergency, I thought it lawful, +and even necessary, to submit to their demands, and therefore +signed their articles, in conjunction with the rest of my +officers.</p> + +<p>I now thought to have got them to work on our bark; but, +instead of listening to me, they demanded what little money I had +saved belonging to the owners, with which I was obliged to +comply, being 750 dollars in virgin silver, a silver dish +weighing 75 ounces, and 250 dollars in coin. Even after this I +was treated worse than ever, having only the refuse of the fish +allowed me, after they had chosen the best, being glad, after a +hard day's work, to dine upon seal; while Morphew and his +associates feasted on the best fish the sea afforded. They next +took the arms out of my custody, of which hitherto I had taken +great care; because, having only one flint to each musket, and +very little ammunition, I foresaw that we would be undone if this +were wasted. I represented all this to them, yet they squandered +away the small remainder of powder and bullets in killing cats, +or any thing else they could get to fire at.--This is a concise +history of our transactions in the island of Juan Fernandez, from +the 24th May to the 15th August, during which no person could +suffer more than I did, or have a more uncomfortable +prospect.</p> + +<p>On the 15th of August we were put into great confusion by the +sight of a large ship, on which, before she crossed the bay, I +ordered all the fires to be put out, and the negroes and Indians +to be confined, lest the ship might be becalmed under the land, +and any of them should attempt to swim off to her, as I conceived +she might possibly be a man-of-war come to seek us, having +received advice of our shipwreck; yet I knew, if she discovered +what we were about, we should soon have the whole force of the +kingdom of Chili upon us. Our apprehensions were soon over, as +the ship bore away large, and kept at too great a distance to see +any thing of us. On this occasion I got most of our people under +arms, and was glad to see them in some measure obedient to +command; telling them that I was pleased to see their arms in +such good order, I was impertinently answered, that this was for +their own sakes. Before they dispersed, I represented to them the +necessity of using their best endeavour to get our bark afloat, +instead of caballing against their captain, which, in the end, +might be very prejudicial to them all; as, if discovered by the +Spaniards, we might expect to be all made slaves in the mines. I +told them we still had a great deal of work to do, and had never +above ten of the most considerate to labour, and seldom above six +or seven; while they knew I was always one of the number, to shew +a good example. But the more I tried to reclaim them, the more +obstinately they ran into confusion, interrupting every thing +that tended to do them service.</p> + +<p>Next day they divided among themselves on a new scheme, being +no less than to burn our bark, and to build two large shallops, +or pinnaces, in lieu of her. Morphew and his friend Brooks were +the favourers of this new design, aiming doubtless at a +separation by this means: but as this must be determined by a +majority, they assembled to debate this matter in front of my +tent, carrying on their deliberations with much clamour on both +sides. In order to put them off this ruinous plan, I represented +to them the impracticability of building the boats, as our tools +and other materials were already worn out and expended. The +workmen, and a considerable majority of the rest, sided with me: +but at night the carpenter sent me word, if I did not pay him the +money agreed upon at first, I should never see his face again; +wherefore, although his terms had not been implemented, I was +obliged to raise the money for him. The most provoking part of +this proposal about the boats was, that the fellows who chiefly +promoted it were those who had never done an hour's work since we +were cast away. Not gaining this point, they openly declared I +should not be their captain, and that none but Brooks should +command them, which was probably what that young man aspired to +from the commencement of the mutiny; and had undoubtedly +succeeded, had it not been for the people in the boatswain's +tent, who still refused their consent to my being left on the +island, though fond of thinking themselves their own masters, and +of refusing to submit to regular command.</p> + +<p>To complete our confusion, there arose a third party, who +resolved to have nothing to do with the rest, proposing to remain +on the island. There were twelve of these, who separated from the +rest, and never made their appearance except at night, when they +used to come about the tents to steal powder, lead, and axes, and +any thing else they could lay their hands, on. But in a little +time I found means to manage them, and took from them all their +arms, ammunition, axes, and other plunder, and threatened to have +them treated as enemies, if they came within musket-shot of our +tents. These divisions so weakened the whole body, that they +began to listen to me, so that I got most of them into a working +humour. Even Brooks came to me with a feigned submission, +desiring to eat with me again, yet in the main did not lessen his +esteem for Morphew. His dissimulation, however, proved of +infinite service in contributing to the finishing of our bark, +which required the united efforts of all our heads and hands. +For, when we came to plank the bottom, we had very vexatious +difficulties to encounter, as our only plank consisted in pieces +from the deck of our wreck, which was so dry and stubborn that +fire and water had hardly any effect in making it pliable, as it +rent, split, and flew in pieces like glass; so that I now began +to fear that all our labour was in vain, and we must quietly wait +to be taken off by some Spanish ship, and be led quietly to +prison after all our troubles.</p> + +<p>By constant labour, and using a variety of contrivances, we at +length finished our bark, but in such a manner that I may safely +assert, a similar bottom never before swam on the sea. Our boat +also was launched on the 9th September; and our bark being now in +a fair way of being completed, it remained to consider what +provisions we could get to support us during our voyage, all our +stock being one cask of beef, five or six bushels of <i>farina de +poa</i>, or cassada flour, and four or five live hogs. I made +several experiments to preserve both fish and seal, but found +that this could not be done without salt. At length we fell upon +a contrivance for curing conger eels, by splitting them, taking +out their backbones, dipping them in sea-water, and then drying +them in a great smoke; but as no other fish could be cured in a +similar manner, our fishers were directed to catch as many +congers as they could. At this time several of our people who had +not hitherto done any work, began to repent of their folly, as +they grew weary of living on this island, and now offered their +services to go a-fishing, making some idle excuses for being so +long idle, asking my pardon, and promising not to lose a moment +in future. The new boat was sent to try her fortune, and returned +at night with a great parcel of various kinds of fish, among +which were about 200 congers, which was a good beginning, and +which were divided among the tents to be cured. Our boat was +carefully hauled on shore every night, and strictly guarded, to +prevent any of our people from stealing her, and making their +escape. By her means also, Mr Brooks, our only diver, tried what +could be recovered from that part of the wreck which had not been +drifted on shore; but could only weigh one small gun, and two +pieces of a large church candlestick, belonging to our +owners.</p> + +<p>Our boat was daily employed in fishing, for which purpose the +armourer supplied hooks; and our men made abundance of lines of +twisted ribbons, a great quantity of which had been driven on +shore. Others of the men were employed in making twine stuff for +rigging, patching up old canvass for sails, and a variety of +other necessary contrivances to enable us to put to sea; and our +cooper put our casks in order; and at length we set up our masts, +which were tolerably well rigged, and our bark made a decent +figure. My spirits were however much damped, by the extreme +difficulty of caulking her tight, as her seams were bad, our +tools wretched, and our artists very indifferent. When this was +done, so as we could, our bark was put into the water to try her +fitness, on which there was an outcry of, A sieve! a sieve! Every +one now seemed melancholy and dispirited, insomuch that I was +afraid they would use no farther means; but in a little time, by +incessant labour, we brought her into a tolerable condition. +Having repaired the ship's pumps, and fitted them to the bark, +the people exclaimed that this was only a poor dependence; but I +exhorted them to have patience, and continue their assistance in +doing every thing that could be thought of for her security. The +cooper also made a set of buckets, one for every man, to serve to +bale her, in case of necessity. Next spring-tide, which was on +the 5th October, 1720, we put her again into the water, naming +her the <i>Recovery</i>, when she answered tolerably well, when +we resolved to run the hazard of going to sea in her, and made +all possible dispatch in getting our things on board. Yet, after +all, a dozen of our people chose to remain on shore, together +with as many negroes and Indians.</p> + +<p>Our sea-stock, besides the small quantity of beef and cassada +flour formerly mentioned, consisted of 2300 eels cured in smoke, +weighing one with another about a pound each, together with about +sixty gallons of seal-oil, in which to fry them. On our first +landing, as the weather was then too coarse for fishing, we had +to live on seals, the entrails of which are tolerable food; but +the constant and prodigious slaughter we made among them, +frightened them from our side of the island. Some of the people +eat cats, which I could not bring myself to, and declared they +were sweet nourishing food. When the weather allowed us to fish, +we were delivered from these hardships; but some of our +mischievous crew set the boat a-drift, so that she was lost: +after which we contrived wicker boats, covered with sea-lions +skins, which did well enough near shore, but we durst not venture +in them out into the bay, and consequently were worse provided +with fish than we might otherwise have been. We fried our fish in +seal-oil, and eat it without bread or salt, or any other relish, +except some wild sorrel. Our habitations were very wretched, +being only covered by boughs of trees, with the skins of seals +and sea-lions, which were often torn off in the night, by sudden +flaws of wind from the mountains.</p> + +<p>The island of Juan Fernandez is in lat 33° 40' S. and +long. 79° W. being at the distance of about 150 marine +leagues, or 7° 30' from the coast of Chili. It is about +fifteen English miles long from E. to W. and five miles at the +broadest, from N to S. entirely composed of mountains and +valleys, so that there is no walking a quarter of a mile on a +flat. The anchoring place is on the north side of the island, and +is distinguished by a little mountain, with a high peak on each +side. It is not safe to anchor in less than forty fathoms, and +even there, ships are very much exposed to sharp gales from the +north, which blow frequently. There cannot well be a more +unpleasant place to anchor in, as the bay is surrounded by high +mountains, and is subject to alternate dead calms and sudden +stormy gusts of wind. This island enjoys a fine wholesome air, +insomuch that out of seventy of us, who remained here five months +and eleven days, not one among us had an hour's sickness, though +we fed upon such foul diet, without bread or salt; so that we had +no complaints among us, except an incessant craving appetite, and +the want of our former strength and vigour. As for myself, from +being corpulent, and almost crippled by the gout, I lost much of +my flesh, but became one of the strongest and most active men on +the island, walking much about, working hard, and never in the +least afflicted with that distemper. The soil is fertile, and +abounds with many large and beautiful trees, most of them +aromatic. The names of such as we knew were the <i>Pimento</i>, +which bears a leaf like a myrtle, but somewhat larger, with a +blue blossom, the trunks being short and thick, and the heads +bushy and round, as if trained by art. There is another tree, +much larger, which I think resembles that which produces the +jesuit bark. There are plains on the tops of some of the +mountains, on which are groves of the <i>Indian laurel</i>, +mentioned by Frezier in his description of Chili. These have a +straight slender body, from which sprout small irregular branches +all the way from the root to the top, bearing leaves like the +laurel, but smaller. <i>Palm-trees</i> are found in most parts of +the island, growing in smooth joints, like canes, some thirty and +some forty feet high. Their heads resemble the cocoa-nut tree, +except that their leaves are of a paler green, and bear large +bunches of red berries, bigger than sloes, which taste like haws, +and have stones as large as those of heart-cherries. That which +we call the <i>palm-cabbage</i> is the very substance of the head +of the tree; which being cut off and divested of its great +spreading leaves, and all that is hard and tough, consists of a +white and tender young shoot or head, having its leaves and +berries perfectly formed, and ready to replace the old one. When +in search of these, we were forced to cut down a lofty tree for +each individual cabbage.</p> + +<p>One good property of the woods which cover this island is, +that they are every where of easy access, as there is no +undergrowth, except in some of the deepest valleys, where the +fern grows exceedingly high, and of which there are very large +trees, with trunks of considerable solidity.[270] Some of the +English who had been formerly here, had sowed turnips, which have +spread much, as have also two or three plantations of small +pompions; but my men never had patience to let any of these come +to maturity. We found also plenty of water-cresses and wild +sorrel. Some of the hills are remarkable for a fine red earth, +which I take to be the same with that of which the inhabitants of +Chili make their earthenware, which is almost as beautiful as the +red porcelain of China. The northern part of the island is well +watered by a great many streams which flow down the narrow +valleys; and we found the water to keep well at sea, and to be as +good as any in the world. Down the western peak, contiguous to +the Table Mountain, there fall two cascades from a perpendicular +height of not less than 500 feet. These are close together, and +about 12 feet broad. What with the rapid descent of these +streams, and the numerous palm-trees growing close beside them, +adorned with vast clusters of red berries, the prospect is really +beautiful. We should have had no want of goats, could we have +conveniently followed them in the mountains. The Spaniards, +before they settled in Chili, left a breed of goats here, and +have since endeavoured to destroy them, by leaving a breed of +dogs, but without effect. Cats are also very numerous, exactly +resembling our household cats in size and colour; and those of +our men who eat of them, assured me they found more substantial +relief from one meal of their flesh, than from four or five of +seal or fish; and, to their great satisfaction, we had a small +bitch, which, could catch almost any number they wanted in an +hour. There are not many sorts of birds; but the sea on the coast +abounds with a greater variety of fish than almost any place I +was ever in.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 270: These must have been some species of +palm, having palmatad leaves resembling ferns.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Seals and sea-lions also abound; called <i>lobos de la mar</i> +by the Spaniards, from their resemblance to wolves. They have a +fine iron-grey fur, and when full grown are as big as a large +mastiff. They are naturally surly, and snarl at the approach of +any one. Instead of tails, they have two fins behind, with which +they make shift to get on much faster than the sea-lions, which +are large unwieldy creatures, and prodigiously full of oil.</p> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Farther Proceedings in the South Sea, after leaving Juan +Fernandez.</i></p> + +<p>We departed from Juan Fernandez on the evening of the 6th +October, having nothing to subsist upon except the smoked +congers, one of which was allowed to each man for twenty-four +hours; together with one cask of beef, four live hogs, which had +fed all the time we were ashore on the putrid carcases of seals, +and three or four bushels of cassada meal. We were upwards of +forty men, crowded together, and lying on the bundles of eels, +with no means of keeping ourselves clean, so that all our senses +were offended as greatly as possible. The only way we had of +procuring water, was by sucking it from the cask with a +gun-barrel, used promiscuously by every one. The little unsavoury +morsels we daily eat, created incessant quarrels, every one +contending for the frying-pan; and our only convenience for a +fire, was a tub half filled with earth, which made cooking so +tedious, that we had the continual noise of frying from morning +to night. I proposed that we should stand for the Bay of +Conception, as being the nearest to us; and we were hard put to +it every day, while the sea-breeze continued; for, not having +above sixteen inches free board, and our bark tumbling +prodigiously, the water ran over us perpetually; and having only +a grating deck, and no tarpaulin to cover it but the top-sail of +our bark, our pomps were barely sufficient to keep us free.</p> + +<p>At four in the morning of the 10th, we fell in with a large +ship, and I could see by moon-light that she was Europe-built. +Our case being desperate, we stood towards her, and being rigged +after the fashion of the South Seas, they did not regard us till +day-light. Not being then quite up with her, they suspected us by +the brownness of our canvas, wore ship, hauled close upon the +wind, fired a gun, and crowded sail away from us, leaving us at a +great rate. It fell calm two hours after, when we had recourse to +our oars, and neared her with tolerable speed. In the mean time, +we overhauled our arms, which we found in bad condition, a third +of them wanting flints, and we had only three cutlasses, so that +we were by no means prepared for boarding, which yet was the only +means we had of taking the ship. We had only one small cannon, +which we could not mount, and were therefore obliged to fire it +as it lay along the deck; and we had only two round shot, a few +chain-bolts, the clapper of the Speedwell's bell, and some bags +of stones. We came up with her in four hours; but I now saw that +she had guns and pattereroes, with a considerable number of men, +whose arms glittered in the sun. The enemy defied us to board +them, and at the same time gave us a volley of great and small +shot, which killed our gunner, and almost brought our foremast by +the board. This unexpected reception staggered many of my people, +who before seemed most forward, so that they lay on their oars +for some time, though I urged them to keep their way. Recovering +again, we rowed quite up to them, and continued to engage till +all our small shot was expended, which obliged us to fall astern +to make some slugs, and in this manner we made three attacks +without success. All night we were busied in making slugs, and +provided a large quantity before morning, when we came to the +determined resolution either to carry her by boarding, or to +submit to her. At day-break, I accordingly ordered twenty men in +our yawl to lay her athwart hawse, while I proposed to board her +from the bark; but, just as we were on the point of making the +attempt, a gale sprung up, and she went away from us. We learnt +afterwards that she was the <i>Margaretta</i>, having formerly +been a privateer from St Malo, mounting forty guns. In the +several skirmishes, we had none killed, except Gilbert Henderson +our gunner. Three were wounded, Mr Brooks being shot through the +thigh, Mr Coldsea in the groin, and one of the crew in the small +of the back. Mr Coldsea lingered in a miserable condition for +nine or ten months, but at length recovered.</p> + +<p>We were now in a worse condition than ever, and the sea being +too rough for our uncomfortable vessel, I proposed to stand to +the north to get into fairer weather, but to take Coquimbo in our +way, to try what might be done there. This was agreed to; but the +very morning in which we expected to have got into Coquimbo, a +hard gale of wind sprung up, which lasted four days, during which +we every hour expected to founder, being obliged to scud under +bare poles, with our yawl in tow, and having only a very short +rope for her. This storm so frightened many of our people, that +they resolved to go ashore at the first place they could find. At +length, calling to mind the account given by Frezier of the +island of <i>Iquique</i>, I mentioned the surprisal of that +place, being but a small lieutenancy, where we might probably get +some wholesome provisions, and a better vessel. This was +approved, and the sun again shining, so that we lay dry, we +acquired fresh vigour, and directed our course for that island. +Next evening we saw the island, which seemed merely a high white +rock, at the foot of the high land of <i>Carapucho</i>. Our boat +set off for the island about sun-set, and had like to have been +lost among the breakers. At length they heard the barking of +dogs, and saw the light of some candles; but, aware of the danger +of landing in the dark, they made fast their boat to a float of +weeds for want of a grapnel, and waited till day-light. They then +rowed in between the rocks, and were ignorantly welcomed on shore +by some Indians. Going to the house of the lieutenant, they broke +open the door, and rummaged it and the village, finding a booty +more valuable to us in our present situation than gold or silver. +This consisted of 60 bushels of wheat flour, 120 of calavanses +and corn, some jerked beef, mutton, and pork, a thousand weight +of well-cured fish, four or five days eating of soft bread, and +five or six jars of Peruvian wine and brandy, besides a good +number of fowls and some rusk. They had also the good fortune to +find a boat to bring off their plunder, which otherwise had been +of little use to us, as our own boat was fully laden with +men.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, we in the bark were carried away by the +current to the northward, out of sight of the island; and as they +had not loaded their boats till the height of the day, they had a +laborious task to row off, being very heavily laden. We were +under melancholy apprehensions, fearing that our people might +have remained on shore and deserted us; but towards evening we +perceived two boats coming fast towards us, as heavily laden as +they could be with safety. Words cannot express our joy when they +came aboard. The scene was now changed from famine to plenty. The +loaves of soft bread were distributed, and the jars of wine +broached: But I took care they should drink of it moderately, +allowing each man no more than half a pint a-day. After living a +day or two on wholesome food, we wondered how our stomachs could +receive and digest the rank nauseous congers fried in train-oil, +and could hardly believe we had lived on nothing else for a month +past. I was assured by my second lieutenant, who commanded the +boat on this occasion, that the Indians seemed rather pleased at +our plundering the Spaniards; so natural is it for bad masters to +find enemies in their servants.</p> + +<p>The <i>island of Iquique</i> is in the lat. of 19° 50' +S.[271] about a mile from the main land, and only about a mile +and a half in circuit, the channel between it and the coast of +Peru being full of rocks. It is of moderate height, and the +surface consists mostly of cormorant's dung, which is so very +white that places covered with it appear at a distance like chalk +cliffs. Its smell is very offensive, yet it produces considerable +gain, as several ships load here with it every year for Arica, +where it is used as manure for growing capsicums. The only +inhabitants of this island are negro slaves, who gather this dung +into large heaps near the shore, ready for boats to take it off. +The village where the lieutenant resides, and which our people +plundered, is on the main land close by the sea, and consists of +about sixty scattered ill-built houses, or huts rather, and a +small church. There is not the smallest verdure to be seen about +it, neither does its neighbourhood afford even the smallest +necessary of life, not even water, which the inhabitants have to +bring in boats from the <i>Quebrada</i>, or breach of +<i>Pisagua</i>, ten leagues to the northward; wherefore, being so +miserable a place, the advantage derived from the <i>guana</i> or +cormorant's dung seems the only inducement for its being +inhabited. To be at some distance from the excessively offensive +stench of the dung, they have built their wretched habitations on +the main, in a most hideous situation, and still even too near +the guana, the vapours from which are even there very bad, yet +not quite so suffocating as on the island. The sea here affords +abundance of excellent fish, some kinds of which I had never +before seen; one of them resembling a large silver eel, but much +thicker in proportion. The inhabitants of this desolate and +forbidding place cure these fish in a very cleanly manner, and +export large quantities of them by the vessels which come for the +guana.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 271: There is no island on the coast of +Peru in that latitude. Iquique is a town on the main land, about +thirty miles from the sea. The islands called <i>los +Patillos</i>, or the Claws, are near the coast, in lat. 20° +45' S. and probably one of these may have got the name of +<i>Iquique</i>, as being under the jurisdiction of that town. The +mountain Carapacha of the text, is probably the hills of Tarapaca +of our maps.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We were informed by two Indian prisoners, that the lieutenant +of Iquique had a boat at Pisagua for water, of which we began to +be in need, for which reason I sent Mr Randal in search of her. +He failed in this object, but brought off a few bladders full of +water, and three or four <i>balsas</i>, very artificially sewed +and filled with wind, which are used for landing on this +dangerous coast. On these the rower sits across, using a double +paddle; and as the wind escapes from the skin bags, he has a +contrivance for supplying the deficiency. These are the chief +embarkations used by the fishermen, and are found very +serviceable for landing on this coast, which has hardly a smooth +beach from one end of it to the other. We intended to have looked +into the port of Arica, but heard there was a ship there of +force, on which we continued our course to the northwards to La +Nasca. Off that port we met a large ship about two hours before +day, and though we rowed very hard, it was ten o'clock before we +got up with her. After a brisk dispute of six or seven hours, we +were obliged to leave her, in consequence of the sea-breeze +coming in very strong. She was called the Francisco Palacio, of +700 tons, 8 guns, and 10 patereroes, with a great number of men, +and well provided with small arms; but was so deeply laden that, +in rolling, the water ran over her deck and out at her scuppers; +indeed she had more the appearance of an ill-contrived floating +castle, than of a ship, according to the present fashion of +Europe. Thus we had the misfortune, on this forlorn voyage, to +meet with the two best equipped and armed private ships at that +time in the South Sea. In this action we had not above twenty +fire-arms that were of any use, owing to the improvidence of our +people at Juan Fernandez; yet were they so impatient of this +disappointment, that some of them were for immediately +surrendering to the enemy. To prevent this, I ordered four men +whom I thought I could trust to take the charge of our two boats; +but two of these went away with the best boat, and my first +lieutenant and Morphew plotted to have gone away with the other, +but were hindered by blowing weather, and so weak was my +authority that I was forced to dissemble.</p> + +<p>Next day we stood into the road of Pisco, where we saw a very +fine ship, and resolved immediately to board her; and to our +great satisfaction, the captain and his people met us with their +hats off, beseeching us to give them quarter. This was a good +ship, of about 200 tons, called the Jesu Maria, almost laden with +pitch, tar, copper, and plank, but nothing else. The captain +offered 16,000 dollars for her ransom, but I could not comply, as +the Recovery was disabled in her masts in boarding, and also we +had now a vessel in which we could at least enjoy cleanliness, +which we had been entire strangers to ever since our departure +from Juan Fernandez; wherefore we made all dispatch in getting +every thing out of the bark. The Spanish captain of the Jesu +Maria informed me, that the Margaretta had arrived some time +before at Calao, where she had given a full account of her +rencounter with us; her captain and three men having been killed +in the action, and a priest with several others wounded. She was +now ready to put to sea again to cruize for us, with the addition +of ten guns and fifty men. A frigate of twenty-eight guns, called +the Flying-fish, was already out with the same intention; and +advice had been sent respecting us along the coast, both to the +north and south, with orders to equip what strength there was to +catch us. All night, the people of Pisco were on the alert, +continually firing guns, to give us an earnest of what we were to +expect if we attempted to land, but we had no such intention.</p> + +<p>Having cleared our bark next morning, we gave her to the +Spanish captain of the Jesu Maria; and as soon as the breeze +sprung up, we weighed and stood to sea. While going out, we met +our own boat with the two men who had deserted us, and who now +edged down upon us, imagining we had been Spaniards. The two +fellows were almost dead, having neither eat nor drank for three +days, and had just been ashore on a small island near the harbour +of Pisco, to kill some seals that they might drink their blood. +Their only excuse for leaving us was, that they had fallen +asleep, during which the breeze had wafted our bark away from +them. We had only a transient view of Pisco, which seemed +pleasantly situated among orchards and vineyards. We proceeded +along the coast very cautiously, knowing that we were almost in +the mouths of our enemies, and that the least act of indiscretion +might throw us into their hands. We ventured, however, to look +into the roads of Guanchaco, Malabriga, and Cheripe, where we saw +no shipping, after which we passed through between the island of +<i>Lobos de Tierra</i> and the continent.</p> + +<p>Being near the <i>Saddle</i> of Payta on the 25th November, I +thought of surprising that place in the night, though our force +was much diminished since our last attack; but as it grew calm +while we were endeavouring to get into the harbour, we thought it +better to delay till morning, as our vessel being Spanish would +deceive the inhabitants, and prevent them from suspecting us. In +the morning, being observed from the shore making many short +trips to gain ground to windward, the Spaniards sent off a large +boat full of men to assist in bringing in our ship, and to +enquire the news. Seeing them making towards us, I ordered none +of our men to appear but such as had dark complexions and wore +Spanish dresses, standing ready to answer such questions as they +might ask in hailing, and to give them a rope when they clapped +us on board. Some of our men also were concealed under our +gunwales, with their muskets ready to point into the boat, to +command them to make her fast, and this stratagem succeeded. I +examined the prisoners as to the condition of the town, which +they assured me was then extremely poor, having neither money nor +provisions, and shewed me a small bark on shore, lately sent in +by Captain Clipperton with some of his prisoners, on the arrival +of which every thing of value had been removed into the country. +Yet we held on our way with Spanish colours flying, and came to +the anchorage.</p> + +<p>As soon as we were anchored, I sent Mr Brooks to attack the +town with twenty-four men, only those who rowed appearing, and +the rest with their arms lying in the bottom of the boats; so +that when they landed, they even found the children playing on +the beach. These took the alarm immediately, and ran away on +seeing our armed men. In an instant the whole place was in +confusion, and happy were they who could escape, the town being +left destitute, and they were too nimble to be overtaken. Our +party ransacked Payta, but found it as poor as our prisoners +reported; so that they only found a few bales of coarse cloth, +about five hundred-weight of dried dog-fish, two or three pedlars +packs, and an inconsiderable quantity of bread and sweetmeats. We +had better fortune while at anchor, as we took a vessel in which +were about fifty jars of Peruvian wine and brandy; her master +having come by stealth from Calao, where orders had been given, +that none but ships of force should venture to sea. My people in +the town were in no haste to re-embark, and when it grew dark, +some of the Spaniards began to assemble, and learning that there +were only eighteen English in the town, came down the hills with +great boldness. At first our people took refuge in the largest +church, meaning to have defended themselves there; but at length +they marched out, formed in a line, and kept beating their drum; +and one of them having fired a musket, the Spaniards hastily +retreated, and our men embarked without any more alarm.</p> + +<p>From Payta we directed our course for the island of Gorgona, +in the bay of Panama, and in our passage to that place built a +tank or wooden cistern in our vessel, sufficient to contain ten +tons of water. In our way we made the island of Plata, Cape St +Francisco, Gorgonella, or Little Gorgona, and on the 2d of +December arrived at the island of Gorgona. We had here the +advantage of being able to fill our watercasks in the boat, the +water running in small streams from the rocks into the sea, and +we cut our wood for fuel close to high-water mark; so that in +less than forty-eight hours we completed our business, and +hurried away for fear of those vessels which we understood had +been sent in search of us. Having got out of the track of the +enemy's ships, we consulted as to the properest manner of +proceeding, when the majority were for going directly for India. +Upon this we changed the name of our vessel, from the Jesu Maria +to the Happy-Return, and used our best endeavours to get off from +the coast of America. The winds and currents were however +contrary, and some of our people who were adverse to this plan +did some secret damage to our tank, so that the greatest part of +our water leaked out. Owing to this, and our provisions being +much exhausted by long delays from contrary winds or dead calms, +we were incapable of attempting so long a run: Wherefore, on +purpose to procure what we wanted, I proposed making a descent on +Realejo, on the coast of Mexico, in 11° 50' [12° 28' N.] +In our way thither, we fell in with Cape Burica, in 8° 20' +[<i>exactly</i> 8° N.] and then, on second thoughts, I judged +it might be safer to make an attempt on the island of Quibo, in +lat. 7° 30' N. where, according to the account given by +Captain Rogers. I guessed there were inhabitants, who lived +plentifully on the produce of their island.</p> + +<p>On the 31st January, 1721, we entered the channel between the +islands of <i>Quibo</i> and <i>Quivetta</i>, in lat. 7° 18' +N. in twenty fathoms water, and anchored opposite a sandy bay, +which promised to afford convenience for wooding and watering. +Sending our boat to view the bay, my people reported that there +was a good close harbour a little to the south, but no signs of +inhabitants, except three or four huts by the shore, which they +supposed had formerly been used by pearl-fishers, as there were +great quantities of mother-of-pearl-shells scattered about these +huts. On attentive consideration, I resolved not to shut up our +vessel in a close harbour, for fear of bad consequences, and +remained therefore at anchor in the open channel. At day-break +next morning, we saw two large boats under Spanish colours, +rowing in for Quivetta, which gave me some apprehensions they had +some intelligence of us, and intended an attack. The mulattoes on +the coast of Mexico are remarkable for their courage, and have +sometimes done very bold actions, even in such paltry vessels as +these we now saw: These, however, steered into a small cove on +the island of Quivetta, which satisfied us they had no intentions +to attack us. I now sent Mr Brooks in our yawl to attack them, +when he found them all ashore, and brought away their piraguas +with two prisoners, a negro and a mulatto, the rest taking refuge +in the woods. We took all their provisions, consisting of a small +quantity of pork, with plantains, some green, some ripe, and some +dried. Of this last there was a considerable quantity, which, on +being pounded, made a pleasant-tasted flour, indifferently white, +and supplied us with bread for a month. The mulatto mortified us +greatly by telling us that a vessel laden with provisions had +passed near us in the night, but promised to bring us to a place +where we might supply ourselves without hazard, provided we were +not above two or three days about it, wherefore we made all +possible dispatch in getting in our wood and water.</p> + +<p>We weighed from this place on the 16th January, steering for +<i>Mariato</i>, being the westernmost point of the gulf of St +Martin. In going out from the channel of Quibo, we were in +imminent danger of being forced by the current upon two rocks at +a small distance from each other, off the northern point of +Quivetta; but having cleared them, we steered through <i>Canal +bueno</i>, or the good channel, so called from its safety, being +free from rocks or shoals. Over against the south entrance of +these straits, at the distance of a league from point Mariato, is +the island of Cebaco, in my opinion about ten leagues in +circumference. I ran along the south end of that island, and in +the evening of the 19th got safe in between it and point Mariato, +and anchored in six fathoms, over against a green field, being +the only clear spot thereabout. Our pilot advised us to land +about three hours before day, when we should be in good time for +the plantations. Accordingly, I went at two in the morning in our +own boat, the two lieutenants being in the two piraguas, and left +my son with a few hands to take care of the ship. Our pilot +carried us a little way up the river of St Martin, and out of +that through several branches or narrow creeks, among groves of +trees, so close that we had not room to row. Not approving of +this navigation, I kept a watchful eye on our guide, suspecting +he had no good design in his head. We landed just at day-break, +in a fine plain, or savannah; and, after a march of three miles, +came to two farm-houses, whence the inhabitants made their +escape, except the wife and children belonging to one of them. We +had the satisfaction of seeing that this place answered the +description given by our guide, being surrounded by numerous +flocks of black cattle, with plenty of hogs, and fowls of several +sorts, together with some dried beef; plantains, and maize; and, +in the mean time, we had a breakfast of hot cakes and milk.</p> + +<p>When it was broad day, I saw our ship close by us, on which I +asked our guide, why he had brought us so far about? when he said +there was a river between us and the shore, and he was not sure +if it were fordable. I therefore sent some to try, who found it +only knee deep, on which, to avoid carrying our plunder so far by +land, I ordered our boats to leave the river of St Martin, and to +row to the beach over against the ship. We had not been long at +the farmhouse till the master of the family came to us, bringing +several horses with him, and offering to serve us as far as he +could. This offer we kindly accepted, and we employed him to +carry every thing we thought fit to our boats. He then went among +his black cattle, and brought us as many as we thought we could +cure, as we had but little salt, and could not afford water to +keep them alive at sea, so that we killed them as soon as they +came on board. We preserved them by cutting their flesh into long +slips, about the thickness of one's finger, and then sprinkled +them with a small quantity of salt, not using more than four or +five pounds to the hundred-weight. After lying two or three hours +in the salt, we hung it up to dry in the sun for two or three +days, which perfectly cured it, much better than could have been +done by any quantity of the best salt.</p> + +<p>Having thus procured all we proposed at this place, we +departed from thence nest morning, having our decks full of fowls +and hogs, among the latter of which was one having its navel on +its back.[272] The Spaniards say that this animal, although but +small even at its full growth, is a terrible creature to meet +wild in the woods. Returning through the <i>Canal bueno</i>, we +stopt at Quibo to complete our water; and on leaving that island, +gave the largest piragua to our two prisoners, to enable those +who were on the island of Quivetta to return home. The wine and +brandy we had lately taken had the effect of dividing my ship's +company into two parties, those who were formerly so firmly +united being now inveterate enemies; insomuch, that in one night +the ringleaders of both have solicited me to espouse their cause, +assuring me that the other party had a design on my life, and +urging me to murder those who were of the opposite faction. It is +wonderful how this evil was diverted, as I could use no other +means than calm advice on both sides, and it was utterly out of +my power to hinder them from getting drunk as often as they +pleased; in which condition they often fell all to skirmishing +with each other, and I had more than once my clothes almost torn +off my back in endeavouring to part them. It was happy this trade +of drinking did not last long, as, while the liquor lasted, I +found it was unsafe to lay my head on my pillow, which almost +wearied me out of my life. Their free access to the liquor +shortened the term of this miserable folly, by soon expending the +baneful cause. The necessities of hunger obliged them to act +jointly and vigorously at Mariato; but they soon relapsed again, +and were as distracted as ever so long as the liquor lasted. My +land as well as sea-officers were now obliged to learn to steer, +and to take their turns at the helm with the seamen, such being +the pass to which they had brought themselves by sinking my +authority, that they had lost their own, and were even in a worse +condition than I; as the crew had, for their own sakes, to have +recourse to me on all emergencies, obeying me punctually while +these lasted, and abusing me plentifully when these were +over.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 272: The Pecary, Tajacu, or Mexican hog, +the Sus Tajapin of naturalists, is here meant, which is an +indigenous animal of the warmer parts of America, and is found in +one of the West India islands. It has no tail, and is +particularly distinguished by an open glandular orifice on the +hinder part of the back, which discharges a fetid unctuous +liquid; and which orifice has been vulgarly mistaken for the +navel.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 25th January, we discovered a sail in the morning, +about two leagues to leeward, to which we gave chase for some +time; but seeing she was Europe-built, and fearing she might be a +man of war belonging to the enemy, I hauled on a wind, and in +half an hour it fell dead calm. We soon after saw a boat rowing +towards us, which proved the pinnace of our consort the Success, +commanded by her first lieutenant, Mr Davison. This was a most +unexpected meeting to us both, Mr Davison being surprised to find +me in such a condition, and I no less so to find the Success in +these seas. I gave him an account of our misfortunes, and of all +that had befallen us during the long interval of our separation, +and he related all the remarkable incidents that had befallen +them. A breeze of wind springing up, I bore down upon the +Success, and went aboard of her; when I gave Captain Clipperton, +and Mr Godfrey, our agent-general, the whole history of my +voyage, expecting to have been treated by them as belonging to +the same interest, but found them unwilling to have any thing to +do with me, now that my ship was lost. I trusted, however, that +Captain Clipperton would let me have such necessaries as he could +spare, on which he said, I should know more of his mind next day. +Among other discourses, he told me that he was just come from the +island of <i>Cocos</i>, his people very sickly, and on short +allowance. I then offered my service to pilot him to Mariato, +which was not above thirty leagues distant, where he might have +refreshed his company, and supplied his wants; but he was +resolved to make the best of his way for the <i>Tres Marias</i>, +where he said there was plenty of turtle to be had, and so I left +him for the night.</p> + +<p>Next morning, as I was going again on board the Success with +some of my officers, Captain Clipperton spread all his canvass, +and crowded away from us. On this I returned to my ship, fired +several guns, and made signals of distress, which were not +regarded by him, till his officers exclaimed against his +barbarity, and at last he brought to. When I had again got up +with him, I sent Mr Brooks to know the reason of his abrupt +departure, and to request the supply of several necessaries, +which I was willing to pay for. On these terms, he spared me two +of his quarter-deck guns, sixty round shot, some musket-balls and +flints, a Spanish chart of the coast of Mexico, with part of +China and India, a half-hour glass and half-minute glass, a +compass, and about three hundred-weight of salt: But all my +arguments could not prevail with him to let me have any thing out +of his medicine-chest for Mr Coldsea, who was still very ill of +his wound. For what we now had from the Success, we returned some +bales of coarse broad-cloth, as much pitch and tar as he would +have, and some pigs of copper: I gave him also a large +silver-ladle for a dozen <i>spadoen</i>, or Spanish swords. This +being concluded, I offered my services, assuring him I had a +pretty good ship, and that our cargo was of some value: To this +he answered, if my cargo were gold, he had no business with me, +and I must take care of myself. Mr Hendric, our agent, Mr Rainer, +and Mr Dodd, our lieutenant of marines, weary of the hard work +imposed upon them, desired my leave to go on board the Success, +which I consented to, and Captain Clipperton left us to shift for +ourselves, being now near the island of Cano.</p> + +<p>I was now for returning southwards, to try our fortunes in the +bay of Panama, but the majority opposed me through fear, +insisting to go to the Tres Marias, to salt turtle at these +islands, and then to stretch over for India. We accordingly +directed our coarse that way, but as the wind near the land +continued in the west, and the coast of Mexico trended nearly +N.W. by W. we crept so slowly to windward, that we began to be +very short of provisions before we got the length of Realijo, on +which our design of landing there was renewed; but this intention +was soon frustrated, as we were blown past that place by a +<i>tequante peque</i>, for so the Spaniards on this coast call a +violent gale at N.E. As we continued our voyage along shore, we +again fell in with the Success, then in quest of +<i>Sonsonate</i>, expecting there to receive the ransom of the +Marquis of <i>Villa Roche</i> who had been some time a prisoner +on board. We ranged close under her stern, and asked how Captain +Clipperton and the rest of the gentlemen did, but received no +answer, and the Success steered one way, while we went another. +After this, calms, contrary winds, and unaccountable currents, so +delayed our proceedings, that were reduced to a very short +allowance, which we were forced to diminish daily, and had been +reduced to very great distress, had we not from time to time +found turtle floating on the surface of the sea, for which we +kept a good look-out, being able to discover them even at great +distances, by the sea-birds perching on their backs. On sight of +these, we were forced often to forego taking advantage of the +wind; and, besides often losing some of our way in pursuit of +them, they had still a worse effect, as dressing them occasioned +a great consumption of our water.</p> + +<p>Being now threatened with almost certain perdition if means +were not fallen upon to avoid a state of absolute famine, I +proposed that we should attempt to plunder some small town as we +coasted along shore. At this time <i>Guotalco</i> was the nearest +port; but, as we were standing in for it, we saw a sail a +considerable way to leeward, which we considered more proper for +us to endeavour to capture than to venture on shore, for which +purpose we bore down upon her, which proved to be the Success. +When sufficiently near, I made the private signal formerly +concerted between us, but Captain Clipperton hauled his wind, and +did not lie by a moment for us to get up with him. We were now so +for to leeward of Guatalco, that it was in vain to beat up for +that port, especially on an uncertainty. We were now reduced to a +small daily allowance of calavances, which not being sufficient +to keep us alive, we had recourse to the remainder of our smoked +congers which had been neglected for some months, and had been +soaking and rotting in the bilge-water, so that they were now as +disgusting food as could be. Under these calamitous +circumstances, we again met the Success near port <i>Angels</i>, +in lat. 15° 50' N. long. 96° 25' W. Having exchanged +signals, we stood so near each other that a biscuit might have +been chucked aboard, yet did not exchange a word, as Clipperton +had ordered his officers and ship's company to take no notice of +us: Yet was Captain Clipperton so sensible of the difficulties +and hazards we had to encounter in our design of going for India, +that he said the child just born would be grey-haired before we +should arrive there. We were now in a most miserable situation, +wandering upon an inhospitable coast in want of every thing, and +all the land we had seen was so wild and open to the sea, that it +would have been impossible for us to have landed any where, and +nothing could have urged us to make the attempt but the extreme +want we were now in.</p> + +<p>On the 12th March, being off the port of Acapulco towards +evening, we saw a ship between us and the shore, which turned out +to be the Success, when Clipperton not only answered my private +signal, but also that for speaking with me. After his late +inhumane behaviour, I would hardly have trusted him, had we not +been so near Acapulco, where I thought he meant to cruize for the +Manilla ships, and now wished to have our assistance, wherefore I +bore down alongside. He now sent his second lieutenant, Captain +Cooke, with a very obliging letter to me, stating that he was +cruizing for the homeward-bound Manilla ships, and desired me to +assist him in the enterprise, with which view he desired me to +come on board next morning, to consult on the best plan of +attacking her, and proposed an union of the two companies. I was +well pleased at this offer, and returned an answer that I should +be with him early. I then read his letter to my people, who all +expressed their readiness to join in the enterprise; but, as +Clipperton had used us so unhandsomely, they desired me to have +some security for their shares, signed by Clipperton, Godfrey the +agent, and the rest of the officers in the Success.</p> + +<p>I went aboard the Success next morning, accompanied by Brooks +and Randal, my lieutenants, and was received with much apparent +civility, all animosities being forgotten, and we seemed now in +the most perfect harmony. I first told Captain Clipperton and Mr +Godfrey of the paper expected by my officers and men, entitling +them to such shares as were allowed by the original articles, to +which they readily consented, and drew up an instrument fully +answerable to what my people desired. We then proceeded to our +consultation, when it was agreed that I should send most of my +people on board the Success as soon as the Manilla ship appeared, +leaving only a boat's crew with me to bring me away in case I +should have an opportunity to use my vessel as a fire-ship, or +smoker, in case she should prove too hard for the Success. We +also determined to board her at once, as otherwise we should have +much the worst of the contest, owing to her superior weight of +metal, and her better ability to bear a cannonade. Clipperton +assured me he was certain of the time this ship was to sail from +Acapulco, being always within a day or two after Passion-week, of +which time a fortnight was yet to come. Before returning to my +own ship, I informed Captain Clipperton of our scarcity of water, +when he told me he had eighty tons, and would spare me as much as +I wanted, or any thing else his ship afforded. I had now the +pleasure of enjoying my command as fully as ever, and my whole +remaining crew, from the highest to the lowest, expressed their +satisfaction at our present prospects. Morphew, the ringleader of +all our disorders, fearing my resentment might fall heavily on +him, contrived to insinuate himself into the favour of the +captain and officers of the Success, by a submissive deportment, +and presents, and, in the end, left me on the 14th March, being +received on board that ship. On the 15th, Mr Rainer came on board +my ship, to visit his old ship-mates, and staid all night. I +constantly reminded Clipperton of our want of water, and he as +often promised to supply us with a large quantity at once.</p> + +<p>We thus continued to cruize in good order, and with great +hopes, till the 27th March, when I had to suffer the most +prodigious piece of treachery that could be imagined. We used to +cruize off and on, at a convenient distance from the shore, so as +not to be discovered from the land, yet so that it was impossible +for any ship to leave the port of Acapulco without being seen by +us. As my ship did not sail so well as the Success, Clipperton +used to shorten sail, particularly at night, and shewed us lights +on all necessary occasions. Towards evening of that day, he +stretched about two leagues a-head of us, and I could not see +that he lowered even a topgallant-sail for us to come up with +him. I kept standing after him however, till almost a-shore on +the breakers, when I had to tack and stand out to sea. Next +morning no ship was to be seen, which reduced us to the most +terrible apprehensions, considering our sad situation for want of +water, and our vast distance from any place where we could expect +to procure any, as we had now no other choice but either to beat +up 220 leagues to the <i>Tres Marias</i>, or to bear away for the +gulf of Amapala, at a much greater distance. I was afterwards +informed, by some of Clipperton's officers, whom I met with in +China, that he had done this cruel action absolutely against the +repeated remonstrances of his officers, who abhorred such an act +of barbarity. I also learnt afterwards, by some Spaniards from +Manilla, that the Acapulco ship sailed about a week after we +desisted from cruizing for her. This ship was the <i>Santo +Christo</i>, carrying upwards of forty brass guns, and was +exceedingly rich.</p> + +<p>In the sad situation we were now reduced to, every thing was +to be hazarded, and any experiment tried that promised the +smallest chance of success. We continued our course therefore, +under terrible inconveniences, distressed for water and +provisions, and weak in point of number; yet so far from being +united by our common danger, that our people could not be +restrained within the bounds of common civility. The winds and +weather being favourable, we found ourselves before the port of +<i>Sansonate</i> [273] on the 30th March, about sun-set, when we +discovered a ship of good size at anchor in the harbour. Being a +fine moonlight evening, I sent my first lieutenant in the yawl, +with some of our best hands, to see what she was. Soon afterwards +we heard some guns fired, and on the return of the lieutenant, he +reported that she was a stout ship, having at least one tier of +guns. Little regarding her apparent strength, or our own +weakness, as we thought our necessities made us a match for her, +we continued plying in all night, and prepared to engage her. At +sun-rise the land-breeze blew so fresh from the shore, that we +worked in but slowly; and in the mean time we received all their +fire on every board we made, but without returning a single shot. +Their boat also was employed in bringing off soldiers from the +shore, to reinforce their ship; and they hung up a jar of about +ten gallons of powder, with a match, at each main and +fore-yard-arm, and at the bowsprit end, to let fall on our deck, +in case we boarded them, which contrivance, if it had taken +effect, would have made an end of both ships, and all that were +in them. Seeing them so desperate in their preparations, I could +not but expect a warm reception; but as our case would not admit +of delay, at ever so hazardous a rate, we were not to be +dismayed. About eleven in the forenoon the sea-breeze set in, +and, to make our small force as available as might be, I ordered +all our three guns to be placed on that side from which we were +likely to engage. As the sea-breeze freshened we ran fast towards +them, during which our small arms were effectually employed to +break their powder-jars before we should board them, which we did +without delay, and they submitted after exchanging a few +shots.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 273: The port of Aeazualte, at the mouth of +the river Samsonate, in the province of that +name.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This ship was named the <i>Sacra Familia</i>, of 300 tons, six +guns, and seventy men, having a great many small arms, shot, and +hand-granades. She had arrived some time before from Calao, with +wine and brandy; but had now nothing on board except fifty jars +of gunpowder, a small quantity of rusk, and some jerked beef; so +that she was hardly worth the risk and trouble of capture. But as +she had the character of sailing better, and was much better +fitted than our ship, I resolved to exchange ships, and we all +went aboard the prize, which had been fitted out in warlike +manner, and commissioned, for the express purpose of taking us, +if we chanced to fall in her way. To do justice to my people, our +small arms were handled with much dexterity on this occasion; +but, having been chiefly directed at the powder-jars, the only +person killed on board the prize was the boatswain, and one +person slightly wounded; while on our side no damage was +sustained. A merchant, made prisoner at this time, seemed +inclined to purchase the <i>Jesu Maria</i>, which we had quitted; +and hearing her cargo consisted of pitch, tar, and copper, he +consented to my demands, and went ashore to raise the sum agreed +upon. We had so few provisions, that we could not afford to keep +any prisoners, and therefore dismissed all the whites, Indians, +and others, except some negroes, whom we detained to assist in +working the ship: and, that we might lose as little time as +possible, we set immediately to work, overhauling our sails and +rigging, that we might get our new ship ready for sea.</p> + +<p>While thus employed, I received a letter from the governor of +the place, which none of us could understand; but learnt by the +messenger, that it intimated some account of a truce concluded +between the crowns of Britain and Spain, and that the governor +requested me to stay five days, that he might satisfy me by +shewing me the articles of accommodation. I thought this odd, +telling the Spanish gentleman I had not met with a friendly or +peaceable reception; asking him why they had thus armed +themselves in so desperate a manner, and why the governor had not +rather sent me a flag of truce in the morning before we engaged, +giving me this intimation? Saying also, if this story were true, +we ought to have found the alleged intelligence on board the +prize, as she came from Lima, whence they pretended the news +came. It was likewise extraordinary, that none of the officers in +the prize should know any thing of the matter: yet I had so great +a regard for even the name of peace, that I would wait fifteen +days, if the governor would supply us with provisions and water, +otherwise I would not consent to stay twenty-four hours. I sent +also a short answer to the governor, excusing our imperfect +knowledge of the Spanish language. In this letter I stated if +peace were actually concluded between our sovereigns, that I was +ready to act as he desired, on due proof; and hoped, as we were +now friends, that he would allow us to have refreshments from his +port. On receipt of this, the governor expressed great +satisfaction, and seemed to make no difficulty in complying with +my request. Our boats went therefore ashore every morning, under +a flag of truce, and we received for the first four days eight +small jars of water daily. On the fifth day they reduced us to +five jars, and during the whole time only one small cow was sent +us.</p> + +<p>On this occasion a boat came off full of men, among whom were +two priests, who brought with them a paper in Spanish, which they +called the articles of peace; but so wretchedly written and +blotted, that we should have been puzzled to read it, had it even +been in English. I therefore desired the priests to translate it +into Latin, which they promised to do, and took the paper with +them. They also told me, that the governor meant to send for some +Englishmen who lived at Guatimala, if I would continue three days +longer in the road; to which I answered, that he might take his +own time. Two days after, on our boat going ashore as usual, the +governor ordered her and her crew to be seized. I was all day in +suspence, not imagining the governor would make such a breach of +the law of nations; but in the evening two of the boat's crew +came off in an old leaky canoe, bringing a letter from the +governor, and another from Mr Brooks, my first lieutenant, who +was one of the prisoners. The governor required me to deliver up +the <i>Sacra Familia</i>, and that we should all surrender, +otherwise he would declare us pirates; and Mr Brooks told me he +believed the governor meant to bully me. The governor proposed +two ways for conveying us from the Spanish dominions, one of +which was by Vera Cruz overland, and the other by sea to Lima. +But I liked neither of these, not chusing a journey of 1300 miles +at least through a country inhabited by a barbarous people, nor +yet a voyage to Lima under their guidance. My two men told me, +that Frederick Mackenzie had let the governor into the secret of +our necessities, and of my design of procuring water at the +island of Tigers, in the gulf of Amapala, which he said he would +take care to prevent, and believed he now had us safe enough, +knowing our only boat remaining was a small canoe. My two men who +brought these letters offering their service, and a third +volunteering to accompany them, to bale out the water from their +wretched canoe, I sent a letter in French to the governor, +offering, if I could be assured of a safe conduct for ourselves +and effects to Panama, and thence by way of Portobello to one of +the British colonies, we would enter into a farther treaty, which +he might signify, if he meant to comply, by firing two guns, and +by sending off my people with the usual supply; otherwise +necessity would compel us to sail that night. Receiving no reply +whatever, I weighed before day next morning, and made sail, +leaving the Jesu Maria behind, a much more valuable ship than the +one I took away.</p> + +<p>On going to sea, we reduced ourselves to a pint of-water in +the twenty-four hours, and directed our course for the gulf of +Amapala, about thirty-five leagues S.S.E. [274] meaning to water +there on the island of Tigers. The loss of my officer and boat's +crew sensibly diminished the number of white faces among us, and +so lessened our strength, that we should never have been able to +manage this great ship, with her heavy cotton sails, but for our +negro prisoners, who proved to be very good sailors. The loss of +our boat was a great inconvenience to us; but as I meant only to +provide water enough to serve us to Panama, where we were +determined to surrender ourselves, if it were really peace, I +thought we might contrive to get such a quantity of water as +might suffice, in two or three days, by means of our canoe. The +winds being favourable, we reached the gulf in ten days, but we +could find no water, after an anxious and hazardous search. +Surrounded on all sides with the most discouraging difficulties, +we weighed anchor again on the 13th of April, when I brought our +people to a resolution not to surrender on any account, let the +consequence be what it might. We had not now forty gallons of +water in the ship, and no other liquids, when we came to an +allowance of half a pint each for twenty-four hours, even this +being too large, considering we could get none nearer than the +island of Quibo, which was about 160 leagues from the gulf of +Amapala, and we were forty-three in number, including our +negroes.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 274: About forty-two marine leagues +E.S.E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We accordingly steered for Quibo, having very uncertain winds +and variable weather, and were thirteen days on this short +allowance. No one who has not experienced it can conceive our +sufferings in this sultry climate, by the perpetual extremity of +thirst, which would not permit us to eat an ounce of victuals in +a day. We even drank our urine, which moistened our mouths +indeed, but excited our thirst the more. Some even drank large +draughts of sea-water, which had like to have killed them. [275] +On the 25th April we came to the island of <i>Cano</i>, in lat. +8° 47' N. which, by the verdure, promised to yield us water, +if our canoe could get on shore. In this hope we came to anchor +off the north-west side of this island, when it was as much as we +could do to hand our sails, stop our cable, and execute the other +necessary labours, so greatly were we reduced. We imagined we +could see a run of water, yet dreaded the dangerous surf which +broke all round those parts of the island we could see. Mr Randal +was sent with some jars, to try what could be done; and as he did +not appear again when very late at night, I became apprehensive +he was either lost, or, not finding water on the island, had gone +in search of it to the continent. At length he came back, with +his jars filled, and any one may guess our unspeakable joy on +being thus opportunely delivered from the jaws of death. He did +not bring above sixty or seventy gallons, and I was at great +pains to restrain my men from using it immoderately, allowing +only a quart to be distributed immediately to each man. What made +me the more strict on this occasion was, that Mr Randal assured +me we should hardly get any more, the breakers were so very +dangerous. That very night we chanced to have a shower of rain, +on which we used every expedient for catching it, in sheets, +blankets, and sails. During our long thirst we had continually +wished for rainy weather, and had often good reason to expect it, +by seeing many louring black clouds, which seemed every minute +ready to discharge their burdens, yet never did before to any +purpose. Next day I sent our boatswain to make another essay; but +after going round the whole island, and wasting the entire day in +search of a smooth beach, he could not see a single spot where he +might venture on shore. Thinking we had a sufficient stock to +carry us to Quibo, we weighed next day; and while ranging near +the island, we saw a smooth beach, on which I sent our canoe +again, which brought back nine jars full of water.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 275: It may not be improper to state, that +in such extremity for want of water, great relief has been +experienced by remaining immersed for some time in the sea; the +lymphatics of the skin absorbing water to supply and relieve the +system very materially.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We now pursued our course to the S.E. and arrived in a few +days at Quibo, anchoring at the same place where we had been +formerly. We pursued our business of wooding and watering at this +island with tolerable chearfulness, yet without any great hurry; +chiefly because we were now within eighty leagues of Panama, and +it was requisite for us to deliberate very seriously on our +scheme of surrendering to the Spaniards. We considered Panama as +well calculated for treating on this subject, not being any way +strong towards the sea; and as we had a good ship, we thought it +no difficult matter to settle the terms of our surrender, before +giving ourselves into their hands. We also reckoned on some +assistance from the factors of the South Sea company, resident +there, who, in case a peace were actually concluded in Europe, +might intercede for us, and procure us a passage for Europe. Yet +as there was something extremely disagreeable in the idea of a +surrender, especially to such enemies as the Spaniards, we were +in no great hurry, particularly as we were here somewhat at our +ease, enjoying many conveniences to which we had long been +strangers. The free use we made of the excellent fruits growing +on this island brought the flux among us, which weakened us very +much, and interrupted our work for some days, yet in the main did +us little hurt, or rather tended to preserve us from the scurvy. +We deliberated and consulted as to our future conduct; but our +views were so discordant, and our minds so distracted, that we +could come to no resolution, except that of continuing here, in +hopes of something happening to our advantage.</p> + +<p>The island of <i>Quibo</i> or <i>Coibo</i> is almost in the +same parallel with Panama, [276] being about twenty-four English +miles from N. to S. and twelve from E. to W. It is of moderate +height, covered all over with inaccessible woods, always green; +and, though never inhabited, abounds with papaws and limes, and +some other fruits I never saw before, which are nearly as good, +though wholly neglected, as those that are most carefully +attended to in other islands in similar latitudes, whence it may +be inferred that the soil is fertile; and, if ever inhabited and +cleared, it promises to be as productive as the best of our +West-India islands. The pearl-fishers, not being able to follow +their occupation during the <i>vandevals</i>, or black stormy +months, from the beginning of June to the end of November, have a +few scattered huts in several parts of this island and of +<i>Quivetta</i>, used by the divers during their season, in which +they sleep and open their oysters, so that the sandy beach is +covered with fine mother-of-pearl shells. In wading only to the +middle, we could reach large pearl oysters with our hands, which +at first pleased us much; but we found them as tough as leather, +and quite unpalatable. Having no seyne, I can say little about +other kinds of fish. We occasionally observed a large kind of +flat fish, which often sprung a great way out of the water, which +are said to be very destructive to the divers; for, when these +return to the surface, unless they take great care, these fish +wrap themselves round the divers, and hold them fast till +drowned. To guard against this, the divers always carry a +sharp-pointed knife, and on seeing any of these fish above them, +present the point over their heads, and stick it into the fish's +belly. They are also subject to great danger from alligators, +which swarm in this part of the sea; and some of us fancied we +saw one swimming below the surface near Mariato Point, only a few +leagues from hence. This island has a great variety of birds, +also great numbers of black monkeys and guanoes, which last +mostly frequent the streams of fresh water. Some of these guanoes +are of extraordinary size, being of a grey colour with black +streaks, those about the head being brown. Quibo is a most +convenient place for procuring wood and water, as the wood grows +in abundance within twenty yards of the sea, and there are +several streams of fresh water crossing the beach.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 276: This is a material error. Panama is in +lat. 9° N. long. 80° 21' W. while the centre of Quibo is +in lat. 7° 28' N. and long. 82° 17' W. from +Greenwich.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having got clear of this place, and nothing thought of but our +speedy return to Europe by surrendering at Panama, we met with +strong adverse currents, together with calms and contrary winds, +by which we were detained for several days under the mountains of +<i>Guanachu</i>. [277] On the 15th. May, a small bark bore down +upon us, mistaking us for Spaniards. She was called the Holy +Sacrament, and came last from Cheriqui, laden with dried beef, +pork; and live hogs. Her master was much surprised at first, but +soon recovered on being told we were bound for Panama, and +readily offered to pilot us thither, as he was bound for that +port; and begged us to take his bark in tow, as he could not +fetch the land, and his hogs were almost dead for want of water, +while his vessel was ready to sink, being so leaky that his +people were no longer able to stand to the pumps. I took her in +tow, sending some of my people to assist in pumping the bark, and +even spared some water and maize for supplying the hogs. The +master came on board of my ship, but had heard no news of any +peace or truce between Britain and Spain.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 277: Perhaps the Sierra de Canataqua are +here meant, which pervade the country between Montijo Bay and the +Bay of Panama, ending in Point Mariato, of which they seem to +have been detained.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It may seem strange that this opportunity of supplying +ourselves with provisions made no change in our plans; but every +one of us was so worn out by a continual want of all necessaries, +and so disheartened by a perpetual succession of misfortunes, +that we were tired of the sea, and willing to embrace any +opportunity of getting ashore, almost at any rate. I was rejoiced +at this bark having fallen into our hands; because, if we found +the story of the governor of Sansonate false, we might be +thoroughly enabled to go to India, with this help. To ascertain +this, I meant to anchor a great way short of Panama, keeping +possession of the bark, in case the president might not agree to +safe and honourable terms, when we still had it in our power to +redress ourselves, by keeping out of his hands. All this while, +however, we had not determined who should be the bearer of the +flag of truce; for my people, after so much treachery among them, +feared that the messenger might only make terms for himself with +the governor, and not return again: Wherefore, my son was chosen +as the fittest person for the purpose, as being sure of his +return, for my sake.</p> + +<p>On the 17th another bark came down upon us, but after coming +pretty near, sheared off; on which I sent Mr Randal in our canoe, +to inform them of our design, but they hoisted Spanish colours on +his approach, and fired at him. Next morning we looked into the +bay, where we found this bark at anchor, but she renewed her fire +on our approach. On this, at his own request, I sent the master +of the Holy Sacrament in a canoe, with four negroes and a flag of +truce, to inform the people in the other bark of our intentions. +A gale of wind interrupted this plan, and forced the canoe on +shore, I dare say without danger to their lives, as they seemed +to land of choice. On the 19th we saw a sail ahead of us standing +along shore, on which we let go the bark we had in tow, in which +were four of our own people and five Spaniards, spreading all the +sail we could, so that by night we were at a considerable +distance from the bark. I was for lying-to all night, for the +bark to come up, but the majority insisted we should crowd sail +all night, so that by day-break of the 20th we were within less +than gun-shot of the chase. I immediately hoisted our colours, +fired a gun to leeward, and sent a man to wave a white flag on +our poop, in token of truce: But they continually fired at us, +having their decks full of men, who kept hallooing and abusing us +with the grossest epithets. Still I made no return, till I came +close on their quarter, and then sent one of their countrymen to +our boltsprit-end, to inform them we were bound for Panama, and +wished to treat with them peaceably: But the only reply they made +was by continuing their fire, calling us <i>borachos</i> and +<i>peros Ingleses</i>, drunkards and English dogs; so that at +length I thought it full time to begin with them. I therefore met +them with the helm, and soon convinced them of their error, +giving them so warm a reception that they soon sheered-off. We +just missed catching hold of them, and as it fell calm, we +continued to engage her for two or three hours at the distance of +musket-shot. A breeze at length sprung up, when we neared them, +and their courage subsided in proportion as we approached. Their +captain still encouraged them to fight, bravely exposing himself +in an open manner, till he was at length shot through the body, +and dropt down dead; on which they immediately called out for +quarter, and thus ended the dispute.</p> + +<p>We now commanded them to hoist out their launch; but they +answered, that their tackle and rigging were so shattered that +they could not possibly comply; wherefore I sent Mr Randall and +two or three more in our canoe, who found all her people most +submissively asking mercy. Mr Randall sent the most considerable +of the prisoners on board my ship, who informed me their vessel +was <i>La Conception de Receva</i>, belonging to Calao, but last +from Guanchaco, of 200 tons burden, laden with flour, loaves of +sugar, boxes of marmalade, and jars of preserved peaches, grapes, +limes, and such like. She mounted six guns, and carried above +seventy men, being one of the ships that had been fitted out and +commissioned purposely to take us; so that she was the second of +these armed merchantmen we had taken. In this engagement, the +Spanish captain and one negro were killed, and one or two +slightly wounded; but their masts, sails, and rigging were much +shattered. On our part, the gunner only was slightly wounded, and +a small piece was carried out of the side of our main-mast. We +had now above eighty prisoners of all sorts, and not exceeding +twenty-six of ourselves. When the Spanish gentlemen came off +board, they would not give me time to ask the reason of not +hearkening to our peaceable offers; but immediately laid the +whole blame on their dead captain, Don Joseph Desorio, who vowed +he would listen to no terms but his own, and was resolved to take +us by force. There were several persons of note among our +prisoners, particularly Don Baltazzar de Abarca, Conde de la +Rosa, an European nobleman, who had been governor of Pisco on the +coast of Peru, and was now on his return for Spain; also a +Captain Morell, who had been formerly taken by Captain Rogers; +and several others. We treated them all with the utmost civility, +at which they wondered; because, from prejudice against our +cruizers, and conviction of their own harsh behaviour towards +their prisoners, they expected to have been dealt with very +roughly.</p> + +<p>In the situation where we now lay, we were in the track of all +the ships bound for Panama, not above thirty miles from that +place, our numbers being very few, and even part of our crew +sick. For these reasons we were as expeditious as possible in +examining the contents of our new prize, and removing them into +our own ship; and, though the far greater part of the work was +done by our prisoners, it took us full two days. Owing to this, +and to faint winds and calms, we did not rejoin our bark till the +22d. As we bore down towards her, and came pretty near, we were +astonished to see her broach to and fall off again, though all +her sails were set; and, what amazed us still more, we could not +see any person on her deck. I sent the boat on board, and the +officer immediately called out to me, that there was not a man on +board, but that all her decks and quarters were covered with +blood. By this melancholy appearance, it seemed evident that the +Spaniards had overpowered and murdered my four men who were sent +to assist them, doubtless taking the opportunity of my men being +asleep: Yet it is probable the murderers lost their own lives; +for, being four leagues from land, and having no boat, they +probably jumped into the sea on the re-appearance of our ship, +thinking to swim to land, and met the death they so justly +merited.</p> + +<p>This tragical affair spoiled the satisfaction we had enjoyed +for two days past, on account of our prize, and raised an +universal melancholy among us. On seeing this sudden change, our +prisoners became much alarmed, looking at each other, as if +fearful we might revenge on them the fate of our unhappy +companions: And, on my side, I became alarmed lest their dreadful +apprehensions might stir them up to some desperate attempt, they +being eighty in number, while we were not at this time above +seventeen on board, and when altogether only twenty-five that +could stand on our legs. I was therefore compelled to appear +somewhat stern, in ordering all our prisoners into the stern +gallery, except the nobleman and a few of the chiefs, while we +kept a strict guard in the great cabin. The Spanish gentlemen +lamented the murder of our men, and their own hard fate, in +having been in some measure witnesses, and let fall some +expressions, by which I perceived they were afraid I meant to +shew some severities to their people on this occasion. Having a +good interpreter between us, I assured them I was not of any such +revengeful disposition, and besides, that the laws of my country +would restrain me, if I were, as I acted by my king's commission, +whose orders strictly forbid all acts of inhumanity or oppression +towards our prisoners; on which assurance they might rest +satisfied of their safety. In reply to this, they begged me to +think myself secure, as to themselves and countrymen, now my +prisoners, declaring on their honour that they would make no +attempt against us, and that they could never make a sufficient +return for the generous treatment I had given them. +Notwithstanding this declaration, I took measures to secure our +numerous prisoners of the meaner sort; for which purpose, after +taking out of the Holy Sacrament all her jerked beef that +remained fit for use, I placed them in that vessel, under the +command of Espina, former commander of the Conception after the +death of Desorio.</p> + +<p>Next day, being as willing to get rid of them, as they were to +get back their own ship, I took every thing out of the Conception +that could be of use to us, sufficient for twelve months +provisions of bread, flour, sugar, and sweetmeats,[278] both for +ourselves and the Success, which we expected to meet with at the +Tres Marias. I took also away her launch and negroes, the latter +to assist us in working our ship, not having sufficient strength +to manage her in the long run before us of 175 degrees. I then +delivered up the Conception to Espina and the rest, after being +three days in our possession: which was not only an act of +generosity to our prisoners, but an act of prudence with regard +to ourselves. The next great point to be managed, was to get our +people to consent to sail so far north as California, previous to +our intended voyage to the East Indies, for which we were not in +so good a condition as we could wish, though much better than +before, and even than we had any reason to have expected, every +thing considered. We had a good ship, with fifteen guns and +sufficient ammunition, together with a reasonable quantity of +provisions; but we still wanted to complete our wood and water +for so long a voyage, the procuring of which was necessarily our +first care. The ship's company were for going to Quibo for this +purpose, as nearest us, but that place was attended by two +important inconveniences. The first was the danger of the road, +as the stormy season was coming on, and we were but indifferently +provided with ground tackle, which must expose us to many +dangers. The second was, that Quibo was but at a small distance +from Panama, and we had reason to fear the Spaniards might send a +ship of war from thence in search of us; as we had now no hopes +that peace had taken place, and had consequently laid aside all +thoughts of surrendering. On these considerations, we plied up to +the island of Cano, where we soon did our business, having a good +boat.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 278: Betagh charges Shelvocke on this +occasion, with the concealment of a considerable treasure, taken +in the Conception, of which some account will be given at the +conclusion of the voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On our passage to that island, the sweetmeats of all kinds +were divided among our messes; and one day a man complained that +he had got a box of marmalade into which his knife could not +penetrate, and desired therefore to have it changed. On opening +it, I found it to contain a cake of virgin silver, moulded on +purpose to fill the box, weighing 200 dollars; and on examining +the rest, we found five more of the same kind. These cakes of +silver, being very porous, were nearly of the some weight with so +much marmalade, and were evidently contrived for the purpose of +defrauding the king of Spain of his fifths, which he exacts from +all silver procured in the mines of Peru. We doubtless left many +such cakes behind in the Conception, so that this contrivance +served them both to wrong their king, and to deceive their +enemies. A similarly vexatious affair occurred in a prize taken +by the Success, in which there was a considerable quantity of +<i>pinos</i>, or masses of virgin silver, in the form of bricks, +artfully plaistered over with clay, and dried in the sun. As the +Spaniards in Peru never burn their bricks, Clipperton and his +people took these for real bricks, and threw a great number of +them overboard as so much rubbish, and did not discover the +deception until four or five only remained. Every thing taken in +the Conception, was divided according to the articles settled at +Juan Fernandez, which gave me only six shares, instead of sixty; +and the people refused to allow me an hundred pounds, which I had +laid out of my own money, for necessary supplies at the island of +St Catharines.</p> + +<p>I now found myself under many difficulties as to the course we +were to pursue, because the company knew well enough that there +was no necessity of going farther than the lat. of 13° N. for +going to the East Indies. I had therefore to represent the +advantage of cleaning and repairing our ship at Porto Segnro, in +California, and I had much difficulty to persuade them. I at last +brought them to my purpose, when we sailed from Cano northwards. +Having inconstant gales and bad weather, we went between seventy +and eighty leagues out to sea, in hopes of meeting more settled +weather. When at sixty leagues from the land, the winds still +continued variable, but at between seventy and eighty, they +settled at E.N.E. and N.E. at which distance we continued till in +lat. 20° N. not being sensible of any currents in all that +distance, and being also entirely out of the way of the frightful +ripplings and overfalls of water which we used frequently to meet +with nearer the land. These used often to alarm us when becalmed +in deep water, hearing a noise as of the fall of water in passing +through a bridge, a considerable time before it came up to us, +and which afterwards passed us at a very great rate. All the +effect this had on the ship, was to make her answer the helm +wildly, if we had any wind; and when we happened to meet any of +these moving waters very near the shore, we could not perceive +that we either gained or lost ground, though we sometimes +continued in them for a quarter of an hour. I have seen these +overfalls to come both from the eastward and the westward. By +getting well out to sea, we not only got clear of these +inconveniences, but also were out of the way of the +<i>vandevals</i>, or black season, which had already begun on the +coast; for at Cano, and in going there, we felt very hard gusts, +with black rolling water, frequent and violent thunder and +lightning, and heavy showers of rain.</p> + +<p>In this passage we were continually accompanied by vast shoals +of fish, as dolphins, bonitas, albicores, and angel-fish. These +last are shaped like salmon, and have scales like them, but have +tails like dolphins, and nearly resemble them when, in the water, +appearing in all the beautiful colours displayed by the dolphin. +Besides, they are the best for eating of any fish that swim near +the surface. We were continually pestered with flocks of the +birds called boobies, and their intolerably stinking dung proved +an indescribable nuisance, in spite of all the pains that could +be taken to clean our decks, yards, and tops. We reached the +islands of <i>Tres Marias</i> in the beginning of August, but +could see no signs of Captain Clipperton having been there. We +were also disappointed in our expectation of procuring water; as, +after the strictest search we could make in all the three +islands, nothing like a spring could be found, though former +writers mention their having found water in abundance. After +spending three days in our ineffectual search for water in these +islands, I thought it best to stand over for the main land of +California, as well for procuring what was wanting to our ship, +as in hopes of meeting once more with the Success.</p> + +<h2>END OF VOLUME TENTH.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<pre> +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Volume X, by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, VOLUME X *** + +***** This file should be named 13130-8.txt or 13130-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/1/3/13130/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Graeme Mackreth and PG Distributed +Proofreaders. 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