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+Project Gutenberg's Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic, by George Moore
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic
+
+Author: George Moore
+
+Release Date: August 7, 2004 [EBook #13095]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Karen Dalrymple and PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+JOURNAL
+OF A
+VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC:
+
+WITH NOTES ON
+CANADA & THE UNITED STATES;
+AND
+RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN,
+IN 1844
+
+
+BY GEORGE MOORE, ESQ.
+
+
+LONDON:
+PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION
+1845.
+
+
+Printed by Palmer and Clayton, Crane-court, Fleet-street.
+
+
+
+
+TO
+ELIZA MOORE
+
+THIS LITTLE VOLUME
+IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
+
+BY
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Having a large circle of friends who feel interested in my American
+trip, the propriety of publishing my observations, to avoid going over
+the same ground again and again, was suggested by one of them--a hint
+with which I have complied.
+
+I can say, with the strictest truth, that I have not revised or altered
+any impression formed at the moment. Indeed, I never saw these Notes
+from the time they were written till they passed through the press.
+
+Change of scene, and a new current of thoughts, with the blessing of
+Providence, have worked a considerable improvement in my health--a mercy
+for which I shall ever feel grateful; and while I prize the high
+privileges of the land of my birth, and feel proud to be an Englishman,
+I hope ever to regard our Transatlantic brethren with respect, and do
+full justice to the extensive wonders of America.
+
+_London, April 30, 1845._
+
+
+
+
+LOG, &c.
+
+
+_Saturday, 17th August, 1844_, One o'clock, P.M.--Left Liverpool in the
+_Great Western_ steamship, Captain Mathews, for New York, with 138
+passengers. Wind N.W., blowing a strong gale. In two hours very few
+passengers on deck, the ship rolling heavily. At four discharged the
+pilot. At half-past twelve passed Holyhead. Went to bed rather squeamish
+at seven.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--Rose at seven; was awakened by the stopping of the
+engine, from breaking a new wheel which had been put up to work the
+blowers for the fires. Detained an hour and half in consequence. Passed
+Tuskar at ten. Had public worship at one: the Church of England service,
+in which the name of the President of the United States was introduced:
+about seventy attended. No sermon, there being no minister on board, and
+the Captain not prepared.
+
+The routine of each day appears to be this:--The gong sounds at
+half-past seven to rise; breakfast at nine; at twelve lunch; at
+half-past three dress for dinner; at four dine; half-past seven tea;
+very few take supper at ten; lights put out at eleven punctually.
+
+At seven P.M. passed Cork; at nine Kinsale. 165 miles. Latitude,
+51 deg. 58' N.: Longitude, 6 deg. 34'.
+
+
+At three o'clock on _Monday_ morning, the 19th, passed Cape Clear; and
+when I got on deck only a distant view of the most rugged part of
+Ireland to be seen. It is now eight o'clock, and the passengers are
+beginning to show themselves, the sea having gone down, and the ship
+going on smoothly 9-3/4 knots. Laid down the following rules, which I
+hope to be able to keep:--Rise at half-past seven; walk on deck till
+breakfast; read at least six chapters in the Bible the first thing after
+breakfast; then walk on deck for an hour till lunch; afterwards write
+for an hour; then walk on deck for another hour; then read any books I
+have till dinner; between dinner and tea walk and talk, and take stock
+of the passengers, being some of all sorts here; after tea whist till
+ten, and then turn in.
+
+The weather continues very calm, and the sea smooth. This steamer,
+without exception, the easiest and most comfortable I have ever sailed
+in. About 100 dined to-day, and the general appetite appeared to be in
+a satisfactory state.
+
+211 miles. Lat. 51 deg. 32' N.; Long. 11 deg. 59'.
+
+
+_Tuesday_, the 20th, seven A.M.--A most beautiful morning. Spent the day
+as usual. During dinner the wind changed to E.N.E. Set all sail below
+and aloft, and the engine made 12 revolutions in the minute. It was now
+that I became acquainted with our worthy Captain, whom I found to be a
+gentlemanly, courteous, obliging little fellow. Heard some German,
+Irish, English, and Yankee songs; and turned in at half-past ten.
+
+193 miles. Lat. 51 deg. 26' N.; Long. 17 deg. 3'.
+
+
+_Wednesday_, the 21st.--Rose at my usual time. Fine weather. For the
+first time saw a sail, a brig, standing to the south, but too distant to
+exchange signals. The wind fair, but very light: the engine making
+12-1/2 revolutions a minute, or 94 knots an hour. Spent the day as
+usual.
+
+228 miles. Lat. 51 deg. 24' N.; Long. 23 deg. 6'.
+
+
+_Thursday_, the 22nd.--The wind changed to south; and the passengers all
+on deck. The sea smooth; and the engine, after being well coaled, made
+14 revolutions per minute. Some heavy card-playing on board, and
+imprudent losses, which I much regretted to see.
+
+220 miles. Lat. 51 deg. 5' N.; Long. 28 deg. 54'.
+
+
+_Friday_, the 23rd.--The ship rolling from a south swell; and a very
+small muster at breakfast. The ladies generally ill. The wind S.E., and
+the ship covered with canvas. Rate 11 knots by the Log. Wind freshened
+up to a sharp breeze from the West; and it is now nearly three days
+since I have been able to put pen to paper. During dinner all the sails
+taken in; and the heavy pitching of the ship sent all the grumblers from
+the table.
+
+259 miles. Lat. 50 deg. 33' N.; Long. 34 deg. 59'.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning, the 24th.--Read; talked; walked; lunched; walked and
+read again. At nine drank "wives and sweethearts;" and then to bed.
+
+239 miles. Lat. 49 deg. 27' N.; Long. 40 deg. 55'.
+
+
+_Sunday_, the 25th.--A beautiful morning, but rather foggy, as we began
+to approach the Banks of Newfoundland. Had a very pleasant day of
+reading. Had public service at one: sang the hymn of "Greenland's rocky
+mountain;" and Mr. Dodge, of New York, read a sermon of the Rev. Thos.
+Spencer's, written when he was sixteen years old, from the text "God is
+love." The sea calm, but very damp.
+
+211 miles. Lat. 48 deg. 15' N.; Long. 45 deg. 51'.
+
+
+_Monday_, the 26th.--A dense fog about the middle of the banks. Sea
+smooth. Going 9-1/2 knots. Spent the day as usual.
+
+212 miles. Lat. 47 deg. 5' N.; Long. 50 deg. 44'.
+
+
+_Tuesday_, the 27th.--Still foggy and dark, cold and comfortless. Saw
+lots of porpoises and whales, who walked away from us at their leisure,
+the steamer making miserable progress from want of steam, though wind
+and sea were favourable. Spent the day as usual.
+
+209 miles. Lat. 45 deg. 43' N.; Long. 55 deg. 10'.
+
+
+_Wednesday_, the 28th.--Sky beautifully clear; but the usual fog came on
+at ten, and the engines were stopped for soundings: 77 fathoms, white
+sand. Cape Race distant 60 miles.
+
+229 miles. Lat. 44 deg. 44' N.; Long. 60 deg. 25'.
+
+
+_Thursday_, the 29th.--Wind dead a-head, with a heavy sea. Only 7 knots;
+and many passengers in bed. At four o'clock the wind changed round, the
+sea smoothed down, and we had the most brilliant sunset I ever saw: it
+was past all description! It gave me a good impression of an American
+sun. The Yankees broke out into applause, and welcomed the face of Sol
+as that of an old and tried friend. Had a grand state-dinner to-day; and
+the passengers appeared to do ample justice to the viands. Passed a
+pleasant evening.
+
+200 miles. Lat. 43 deg. 4' N.; Long. 64 deg. 14'.
+
+We presented Captain Mathews with a memorial, signed by all the
+passengers, on his first trip as commander, he having been first mate to
+Capt. Hoskin in the _Great Western_ ever since she was launched. He
+richly deserved a more substantial mark of our regard for his
+unremitting attentions.
+
+The following was the Bill of Fare:--
+
+
+                              BREAKFAST.
+
+                        Dishes.                         Dishes.
+  Beefsteaks               4        Omelets                 8
+  Mutton Chops            --        Boiled Eggs           100
+  Pork Chops               4        Homony                  6
+  Ham and Eggs            10        Hash                   --
+  Fried Bacon              6        Mush                   --
+  Fricasee Chicken        --        Fried Fish (Soles)      5
+  Veal Cutlets             4        Do. Potatoes           --
+  Stews                    6
+
+
+                               DINNER.
+
+  Soup--Mock Turtle        6        Boiled Fowls            3 pair
+  Boiled Fish--Salmon               Corned Beef             1
+    and Lobster Sauce      4        Corned Pork            --
+  Baked Fish              --        Ham                     1
+  Roast Beef               3        Tongues                 2
+  Saddles of Mutton        2        Fricandeau             --
+  Roast Lamb               2        Mutton Cutlets          8
+  Roast Turkey             2        Macaroni                4
+  Roast Veal              --        Curry                  --
+  Roast Pig                1        Irish Stew             --
+  Olive Ducks              3 pair   Calf's Head             2
+  Roast Fowls             --        Roast Hare              5
+  Roast Geese              1        Lobster Patties         6
+  Boiled Mutton            2        Chicken Salad           8
+  Gullenteen Turkeys       4
+
+
+                               PASTRY.
+
+  Plum Pudding             5        Mince Pies              6
+  Apple Dumpling           8        Damson Pies            --
+  Raspberry Rollers        2        Cherry Pies             4
+  Baked Apple Pudding      5        Rice Pudding            8
+  Apple Pies               7        Orange ditto            5
+  Cranberry Pies           7        Custard ditto          --
+  Raspberry Puffs          8        Bergnets               --
+  Plum Pies                7        Brandy Fruits           8
+
+                 WINES, JELLIES, AND BLANCHEMANGE.
+
+August 29th, 1844.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Friday._--Saw land to-day for the first time since we left Cape Clear;
+and heartily sick of the Atlantic. Saw Lantucket at two P.M. The
+atmosphere mild and warm. Paid my wine-bill to Crawford, the head
+steward, a black; who, by the way, had got well threshed for
+nigger-driving the second steward. Finished my letters for England in
+hopes of catching the Boston steamer, which leaves New York at five P.M.
+on Saturday.
+
+210 miles. Lat. 41 deg. 18' N.; Long. 68 deg. 18'.
+
+
+_Saturday._--A beautiful morning. The wind changed. All the passengers
+on deck. The pilot (who had come out 160 miles to get the job, a very
+intelligent fellow) lent me a New York paper. A good many vessels in
+sight. Came close to Long Island. All bustle and confusion packing. Our
+boat did her best, but we saw we should be too late for the mail. Got to
+Sandy Hook at five; the Narrows at six; and up the East River at seven.
+Passed Fort Hamilton; and at half-past seven landed in New York.
+
+The confusion on landing baffled all description. Hundreds of
+pickpockets were on the look-out. We sojourned at the Astor House Hotel.
+Had a warm-bath, and retired to rest grateful that I was once more on
+_Terra firma_.
+
+265 miles. Passage altogether 3022 miles in fourteen days.
+
+
+_Sunday_, 1st September.--Rose at six. Took a car with my companion, Mr.
+K----, of Liverpool, and went down to the _Great Western_ for our
+luggage. We met with great civility from the Custom-house officers.
+They would not allow luggage to pass after sunset the previous evening.
+After breakfast we heard service at Dr. Spring's Chapel, a Presbyterian:
+a beautiful chapel, and a respectable congregation, and all in their
+pews before the minister ascended the pulpit: the text was, "The Lord
+reigneth:" the singing was good: the service terminated at twelve. The
+weather awfully hot: the thermometer stood at 92 deg. in the shade. Dined at
+half-past two: 300 sat down to a splendid dinner, everything that could
+tempt the appetite or please the epicure. Tea at seven; and supper at
+ten, if required.
+
+I may here remark that Astor House is the largest hotel in the world.
+They make up five hundred beds regularly, but could make up eight
+hundred: about sixty waiters; five regular clerks; twenty-one
+washerwomen; five manglers (all of which is done by steam); twelve
+cooks. Take it for all in all,
+
+     "I ne'er shall see its like again."
+
+Their system is as much carried out as Morrison's, Fore-street. You
+never have occasion to ring the bell twice: they have twenty rotunda men
+who do nothing else but answer bells and carry out parcels. My first
+impression of New York on the Sunday morning was that it resembled
+Paris.
+
+Population, 350,000. Lat. 40 deg. 42' N.; Long. 74 deg. 2-1/2'.
+
+I here subjoin the Bill of Fare. For eating and bed two dollars per
+day, including servants.
+
+_GENTLEMEN'S ORDINARY._
+
+
+                          SOUP.
+
+Mock Turtle Soup.
+
+
+                          FISH.
+
+Baked Black Fish, Claret sauce,           Clam Chowder.
+
+
+                         BOILED.
+
+Corned Beef,                        Chickens and Pork,
+Ham,                                Smoked Corned Beef,
+Tongue,                             Leg of Mutton.
+                       ----------
+Cold Pressed Corned Beef,         Cold Corned Leg of Pork,
+Cold Roast Beef,                  Cold Roast Lamb.
+
+
+                       SIDE DISHES.
+
+Lobster Salad,                  Small Birds, Port Wine sauce,
+Mutton Chops, breaded,          Small Oyster Pies,
+Rib of Beef, Champagne sauce,   Ducks, Spanish sauce,
+Pigeons with fine Herbs,        Veal, Tomato sauce,
+Broiled Chickens, Steward's     Macaroni,
+  sauce                         Eels, Cold Sauce,
+Calf's Head, Brain sauce,       Beans and Pork.
+
+
+                       VEGETABLES.
+
+Boiled Potatoes,       Onions,         Boiled Rice,
+Corn,                  Turnips,        Beets,
+                       Tomatoes,       Cabbage,
+         Fried Egg Plants,        Shelled Beans.
+
+
+                         ROAST.
+
+Beef,     Chicken,
+Pig,      Geese,         Lamb and Mint sauce.
+
+
+                        PASTRY.
+
+Peach Pie,        Kisses,            Lemon Pudding,
+          Custard Pie,   Fruit Jelly.
+
+
+                      DESSERT.
+
+  Filberts, Almonds, Raisins, Oranges, Figs, Plums,
+       Apples, Pears, Melons, Peaches, &c.
+
+                     ICE CREAM.
+
+
+
+                                                         D. C.
+                      MOSELLE.
+
+Seister Water                         Price per bottle,  0  75
+Moselle, 1831                                            1  50
+
+
+                     SAUTERNE.
+
+Sauterne                                                 1  00
+Morton's Y. Chem                                         2  00
+Pints                                                    1  00
+
+
+                      HOCK.
+
+Markgraefer, delicate                                    1  00
+Rudeshoimer, 1834, pints                                 1  50
+Marcobrunner                                             2  00
+Steinberger Cabinet, 1831                                2  50
+Sparkling Hock                                           2  00
+Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenberg of 1831                      3  00
+Ausbruck Cabinet Graffenburg, 1831                       4  00
+Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenburg, 1822                        4  00
+Cabinet Schloss Johannisberger, 1822                     5  00
+Prince Metternich's Castle, bottled, yellow seal, 1831   5  00
+Metternich's Castle, bottled, red seal, 1822             5  00
+Prince Metternich's celebrated Castle, bottled, gold
+ seal, Johannisberger vintage 1822                       8  00
+
+
+                  CHAMPAGNE.
+
+Schreider                                                2  00
+Napoleon                                                 2  00
+Cliquot                                                  2  00
+Heidsieck                                                2  00
+Ruinart                                                  2  00
+Perriot                                                  2  00
+Star                                                     2  00
+Venoge, J.T.B.                                           2  00
+Duc de Montabello, dry                                   2  00
+Do.        do.     sweet                                 2  00
+Do.        do.     Ladies' wine                          2  00
+Pints              do.    do.                            1  00
+
+
+                   CLARET.
+
+Table Claret                                             0  50
+Do.    do.                                               0  75
+Pints of Barsolou                                        1  00
+St. Estephe, V. Barsalou                                 1  00
+St. Julien,       do.                                    1  25
+Leoville,         do.                                    1  50
+Pontet Canet,     do.                                    1  50
+Chateau Latour,   do.                                    1  75
+Battailly, Barton, and Guestier, 1834                    1  50
+Chateau Beychevelle,      do.    1834                    2  00
+Mouton,                   do.    1834                    2  50
+Latour,                   do.    1834                    3  00
+Chateau Lafitte,          do.    1834                    3  00
+Chateau Margeaux,         do.    1834                    3  00
+St. Julien, in pint bottles, V.B.                        0  75
+Leoville          do.        do.                         0  75
+Pontet Canet,     do.        do.                         0  75
+Latour,           do.        do.                         1  00
+Lafitte                                                  1  00
+
+
+                    PORT.
+
+Particular                                               2  00
+Tower                                                    2  50
+Brazil                                                   2  50
+
+
+                  BURGUNDY.
+
+Macon                                                    1  50
+  Do.   pints                                            0  75
+Pouilly, White Burgundy                                  1  50
+  Do.     do.          pints                             0  75
+Pomard                                                   2  50
+Chambertin                                               3  00
+Romanee                                                  3  00
+Vosne                                                    3  00
+
+
+                  SHERRY.
+
+Harmony, Amontillado, delicious                          3  00
+Sherry, Pale, N.O.                                       1  00
+Sherry, S.S.                                             1  00
+Yriarte, Pale, delicate                                  2  00
+Yriarte, Gold G.                                         2  00
+Crowley (Sayres) Gold                                    2  50
+  Do.     do.    Brown, extra                            2  50
+  Do.     do.    Amontillado                             3  00
+Imperial, Pale                                           4  00
+Brown, imported in glass                                 4  00
+Romano, do. very old                                     3  00
+Romano, Pale, very old                                   3  00
+Lobo, Brown, FO, long bottled                            3  50
+Ne Plus Ultra                                            4  00
+
+
+                         MADEIRA.
+
+Henry Clay, imported into Boston in 1826.                3  00
+Madeira, F.B.                                            1  00
+Madera Oliveiro                                          1  50
+L.P. Madeira                                             2  00
+Blackburne's                                             2  00
+Blackburne's Reserve                                     2  50
+Howard, March, and Co.'s Madeira, imported for the
+  Astor House, F.                                        2  00
+Newton, Gordon, and Murdock's (GM)                       2  00
+Oliveires Reserve, 17 years old                          2  50
+E.I. Leacock, old, dry                                   2  50
+Leacock, M.L., imported, 1826, into New Orleans          3  00
+Murdock, Yuille, and Woodrope, MY                        3  00
+Yellow Seal, original N.G.M. delicate                    3  00
+D.V. Sercial, very delicate                              3  00
+Brazil, V.I. very old, a favourite wine                  3  00
+Brown Seal, old Monteiras, 'superior'                    3  00
+Nabob                                                    3  50
+Red Seal, old, bottled, East India                       3  50
+Eclipse Madeira                                          4  00
+Rapid, imported 1818                                     4  00
+Green Seal, Virginia Madeira, light and very delicate    4  00
+White Top, very old and delicate                         4  00
+Thorndike, very old and 'superior'                       4  50
+Edward Tuckerman, Esq., Scott, Laughnan, Penfold,
+  and Co.'s, imported 1820, P.M.                         5  00
+Gratz, yellow seal, 1806                                 5  00
+  Do. green seal, 1806                                   5  00
+  Do. black seal, 1806                                   5  00
+  Do. red seal, bottled 1806                             5  00
+Wanton, exceedingly delicate, thirty years in wood, W.   5  00
+John A. Gordon's Madeira, imported into Philadelphia
+  1798                                                   5  00
+Caroline, an old family-wine                             5  00
+Gordon, Buff, Inglis, and Co.'s, imported by H.G.
+  Otis and Edward Tuckerman, Esq., 1811, G.              5  00
+Stalk's Madeira, bottled in Calcutta, imported 1825      6  00
+Hurd's Madeira, bottled in 1822 in Calcutta              5  00
+Essex, Jr., imported 1819                                6  00
+Smith and Huggins, Dyker's White top, bottled in
+  1800 in St. Eustatia                                   7  00
+Tuckerman's B., 1810                                     7  00
+Thorndike's A., 1809                                     8  00
+Wedding Wine                                             8  00
+Gov. Philip's Wine                                       9  00
+Gov. Kirby's original bottles, OO                       12  00
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Monday_ morning, the 2nd.--After breakfast despatched three-quarters of
+a hundred newspapers to my old and valued friends in England. They keep
+no stock on hand for promiscuous sale: they printed them on purpose for
+me. After which I visited the business parts. All the streets filled
+with empty cases, which they had just cleared for the Fall trade:
+auctioneers hammering away in all corners, knocking goods about as if
+they cost nothing. In the stores there appears no system--all is
+confusion. The heat was awful till seven P.M., when the rain came down
+in torrents: at the same time the atmosphere was brilliantly lighted by
+flashes of electric fire. Took Mr. and Mrs. Green to the Park Theatre,
+to patronize Anderson as _Othello_, Miss Clara Ellis as _Desdemona_, and
+a Mr. Dowsett as _Iago_, all of whom crossed with us. A poor set out.
+Theatrical property in the States, I understand, is at a greater
+discount than in England. Poor Mr. Simpson, whom I sat next to in my
+passage, is the proprietor--a worthy man, and much esteemed. To bed at
+eleven.
+
+
+_Tuesday._--A long day of business. Observed with regret their loose
+mode. All busy; and they appear to think good times will last for ever.
+Nearly all have failed at one time or the other. Bankers discounting
+liberally at present; and all appear to be trying who can sell cheapest.
+Retired to rest at eleven, lost in amazement, and the reflection that
+this state of things cannot last long.
+
+
+_Wednesday._--Ascertained the geography of the town pretty well; and so
+I ought, for I walked till I was nearly red in the face, and my shirt
+wet through. Engaged at the present moment, ten P.M., writing this, with
+all my bedroom windows open, and in my shirt. _Hot!_ HOT!! VERY HOT!!!
+
+
+_Thursday._--Called upon Mr. J.J. Echalaz, at Goodhue and Co.'s, where I
+received marked attention from both Mr. E. and his employers. When I
+introduced my letters from E.B. Webb, at Baring's, got some valuable
+information, and letters of introduction to Philadelphia, Boston,
+Baltimore, Washington, and Canada. Afterwards took a turn amongst the
+retail-shops, to see their system. Mr. Stewart, Broadway, and a few
+others, are done upon the London style, but the lower class take any
+price they can get. Disco-
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: One page of text is missing here (page 15 in the
+original work).]
+
+
+superintendent has a higher object than his pay. God grant that he may
+long be spared!--We then saw the avenues; and, as "variety is charming,"
+we then visited Niblo's Theatre--something like what Vauxhall was: lots
+of handsome girls performing nonsense; and two or three men, more
+particularly one named Mitchell, kept us in roars of laughter. Bussed it
+home: no conductor: the driver has a strap with which he shuts and opens
+the door, and you pay him through a hole in the roof. To bed at eleven.
+Began to like my companion very much: found him a sober, religious,
+industrious man, who studies to make himself agreeable.
+
+
+_Friday_ morning.--Bought a lot of books, new publications, at
+desperately low prices: bought also a capital map of the United States
+and Canada for 10 dollars to send to Bow Churchyard, to show my
+_journey_ when I return to Europe. Afterwards had a long consultation
+with my old friend and fellow-apprentice, Joseph Blane, who is in
+prosperity, esteemed by all who know him, and in possession of the best
+information about the standing of the different parties in the dry-goods
+trade. Spent the remainder of the day with George Pearce, and was rather
+favourably impressed with the object I had in view in taking this
+voyage. It is now ten, and I smoke my solitary cigar, having confined
+myself to one since my arrival.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning.--Full of business all day. Had interviews with
+Brown Brothers, (the Rothschilds of America,) from whom I received
+marked kindness and attention, and most liberal offers to transact our
+money operations. Also spent an hour with Pickersgill and partners, who
+had been doing our business, and was much pleased with their
+straightforward manner. Also saw Mr. Ebbets, at the Union Bank, whom I
+found a business man. Heard all their propositions, and reflected upon
+them. Dined with Mr. Pearce, and stuck to my writing till seven o'clock.
+Then called upon Mr. Green; and he came and had an oyster supper with
+me. And I may here observe, they beat us altogether in cooking oysters:
+they fry, stew, roast, boil, and have every imaginable way of cooking
+them. Took a warm-bath to finish the week, and not before I required it,
+as I have been wet through every day with perspiration since I came
+here. To bed at ten.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--Rose fresh. Had my head shampooed and cleaned in a
+most extraordinary manner. Breakfasted, and to St. John's Episcopal
+Church, and heard a very good sermon by Dr. Milliner: I forget the text,
+although I was much impressed with the discourse. Returned to the Astor,
+where my old friend, Joseph Blane, was waiting to take me to his house
+to dine. He has the best house I had been in yet--774, Broadway; not
+living, like most of the New York merchants, at hotels, lodgings, or
+boarding-houses. Introduced to his wife, whom I found a delightful
+woman--of French extraction, but Yankee-born. Was introduced to Mr.
+Deseze, Mrs. B.'s brother-in-law, a Frenchman, who fought under Napoleon
+at Waterloo, and was offered to retain his commission by Louis XVIII.,
+but he declined it. This was one of the pleasantest days I had spent
+since I left my own fireside. It brought old recollections to my memory
+that had long been buried--scenes of my boyhood, when Blane and I were
+serving our apprenticeship in Wigton. In the evening we went to Palmo's
+Opera-house, to hear Dr. Lardner, of Heaviside notoriety. It was his
+second lecture on the "Evidences of Religion afforded by the Phenomena
+of Nature, and the Consistency of Science with Divine Revelation." We
+were much pleased. He is the most complete elocutionist I ever heard,
+and impressed a crowded audience with his sublime subject. What a
+melancholy loss to England by his one false step, that degraded him in
+moral society! Walked to the Astor, and took one cigar each, when Mr. B.
+told me he was collecting charity for the poor widow of H. W----s, who
+had left her without a shilling to support four helpless children. He
+had 6000 dollars a year, and Mr. F. discharged him for intemperance. He
+took to his bed, and died of a broken heart. I envied this man, when I
+lived with him at F.'s, for his position. Gave his widow 50 dollars;
+and to bed.
+
+
+_Monday_ morning.--Had a long interview with Prime, Ward, and King, the
+first house here whom I had letters to from Barings and Overend, and
+Gurney. They gave me all the information in their power, and introduced
+me to Mr. Halford's agent, a bill-broker, 46, Wall-street. Was occupied
+till dinner writing to Bow Churchyard, and had Mr. Pearce to dine with
+me. Dr. Keene called in the evening, and we took steam-boat (as large as
+six of the Margate boats) to Holboken. Had a delightful walk by the
+Hudson River, and saw some Indians, real Natives, with whom I was much
+struck. Returned by a steam-boat, still larger and more crammed: I
+should think there must have been 2000 souls, with lots of
+trotting-horses, and gigs from 70 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight each,
+returning from a trotting-match. Heard some extraordinary grasshoppers,
+which repeated "Kate she did!" and "Kate she didn't!" quite distinctly.
+Thence, for the first time, to a mobocracy meeting, where they expressed
+awfully Liberal opinions--"Polk and Dallas for ever!" The room, a very
+large one, was crammed to suffocation: I should think there were 5000
+wedged in, and I should say the thermometer stood at 106 deg.. Liberal as I
+am, I went no length to them. Beat all the speeches I ever heard. Dan.
+O'Connell, Tom Duncombe, and the late Hunt and Cobbett were fools to
+them. Home again with a wet shirt, and to bed.
+
+
+_Tuesday_ morning.--Received letters of introduction from Goodhue and
+Co. to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore, Canada, and Washington. Had a
+long talk with Mr. M., 60, Cedar-street. Introduced by Pearce, about my
+intended trip: found him very useful. Received an order from a good
+house, without soliciting them. Wrote and finished my letters home per
+_Great Western_. Mr. Blane, and my old friend Brough, the performer,
+dined with me. Was introduced to Capt. M'Lean, of the _Swallow_, running
+to Albany; and then walked with Mr. R., of Manchester, down to the
+Battery: a beautiful walk. To the Castle Garden, where there was another
+Polk meeting, which I should think 10,000 people attended. Lots of
+Liberality again. The Fort close to this is a splendid affair. Came by
+White Hall back to the Astor, and wrote a long letter to my wife; and,
+as it is just now ten o'clock, good night!
+
+
+_Wednesday_ morning.--Bought three splendid racoon skins--one each for
+Mr. Groucock, Mr. J. of Liverpool, and self, for our carriage
+driving-boxes (Mr. J. having put upon my finger a magnificent diamond
+ring very unexpectedly when I was leaving my native shore, as a mark of
+gratitude for a disinterested act on my part towards him long, long ago,
+which he considered had been the groundwork of his fortune:) also some
+tobacco to pack in them, to prevent them spoiling. Then saw over the
+Custom-house, which is a very fine building; and the Exchange. Business
+is not done here as it is in London. Mr. Vyse, Mr. Palin, and I then
+visited the Tombs. Prisoners do not remain here long. If the sentence is
+long, they are sent to Blackwood's Island. The prisoners here are kept
+clean, have well-aired cells, and are allowed to walk about at their
+pleasure. They get only two meals a day: a quart of coffee or more, and
+as much bread as they can eat. Dinner at three, with plenty of beef and
+bread. For very long sentences they are sent to Sing-Sing, up the North
+River, and Auburn state-prisons. We then visited the Sessions-house,
+where there is no distinction between judges, counsel, or prisoners--all
+are in plain dress, spitting about in all corners. Heard an eloquent
+counsel defending a prisoner. Saw the lock-up, the warder's and grand
+jury rooms. Altogether the Tombs is a very fine building. Saw where the
+memorable J.C. Colt destroyed himself immediately after he was married,
+and two hours before he would have been hanged. We passed Washington
+Hall, where many a fine fellow has been ruined by gaming and drinking;
+and dined at Astor House, where I was told it for a positive fact they
+take 500 dollars a day ready money for drinks of brandy by people
+standing. They pay 40,000 dollars a year rent. We then took a drive,
+saw Mr. Vyse's fine horse and sulky, and spent an hour at his
+apartments, which are first-rate: then to Trenton Hall to see a Mr.
+Green, a reformed gambler, who exposed the rascality of gaming of all
+sorts, and taught me how to know the cards by their backs. I was much
+interested, and bought his "Life," with its scandalous exposures. Saw
+Captain M'Arthey, who shot his brother in a duel, and has been
+distracted ever since. To bed at eleven o'clock.
+
+
+_Thursday_ morning.--Called upon Prime, Ward, and King, for letters of
+introduction for my future route. Read P. and S.'s articles of
+partnership. Wrote another long letter to my wife. Put Mr. Dowden's
+commission into Mr. Pearce's hands, and Mr. Carrick's into Mr. Brough's,
+who has friends at Vicksburgh. Bought my wife a handsome rocking-chair.
+Then walked down to see the _Queen of the West_, the finest packet-ship
+I ever saw. Visited the different markets: saw lots of fruit, but do not
+think they touch us in anything but apples; tasted a large pumpkin, but
+did not like it. Dined at the Astor; paid my bill, and packed up. To bed
+at ten.
+
+
+
+MY JOURNEY SOUTH.
+
+
+_Friday_ morning, the 13th October.--I left New York at nine A.M., and
+crossed the North River per steam-boat to New Jerseytown, to the
+Philadelphian railway. Each carriage held about eighty; still they were
+comfortable with the windows up; and cheap--four dollars for 100 miles.
+No second or third class. Six carriages, all crammed. The first station
+we stopped at was Rohaio; thence to Elizabethtown; thence to New
+Brunswick; then crossed the Delaware to Trenton, Pennsylvania state, and
+to Bristol ferry, to the new Philadelphia steam-boat, waiting to take us
+down the Delaware to Philadelphia. The country is fertile, capable, with
+good farming, of producing good crops, which it has, of buckwheat,
+Indian corn, and peaches--any quantity. We passed the seat of Joseph
+Bonaparte; and also the notorious Nicholas Biddle's, who was President
+of the United States Bank for twenty years, whose stock is now worth L5
+that sold once for L140. I was much interested on my journey with a
+gentleman from Heilderberg region, in the Rensselaer country, where the
+native Indians, as they call themselves, assemble masked; and on one
+occasion tarred and feathered the sheriff for attempting to enforce the
+rents of the Van Rensselaer family estates, the deluded beings having
+persuaded themselves they had as much right to the property as the
+family that had it confirmed to them by the law of the land. When will
+the _Locofocos_ be satisfied? Nearly opposite Philadelphia is a smart
+town called Camden, where the wealthy merchants reside. We saw lots of
+people shooting reed-birds on the banks of the Delaware. This is about
+ninety miles from Cape Mare: then it is open sea to England. I was
+struck with the town of Philadelphia. The streets all run in triangular
+directions, and, as in New York, are called First, Second, and so on;
+and many by such names as Cedar, Pine, Walnut, Chestnut, Mulberry, &c.
+The ruined United States Bank is really a fine building of marble,
+uninhabited. The Exchange is worthy of remark. The receiving-room, where
+the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, is magnificent. It
+has a statue of Washington, and a portrait of William Penn, the first
+white man as a settler in 1661. This building was erected in 1733. The
+Pennsylvanian Bank is a fine building. The Post-office small and
+inconvenient. I then visited the Sessions-house, and heard them trying
+the rioters. Home to bed at eight, tired out.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning.--Walked the Market-street, being the market-day. Was
+much gratified with the immense quantity of domestic articles of every
+description, particularly fruit: water-melons as big as 16 lbs. or 20
+lbs. weight, and the finest of peaches selling at 1 s. per bushel. I
+then called upon all the commercial people I wished to see, and found
+they depended upon New York for supply. Found an old neighbour, Lewis
+Brown, from Rose Castle, Cumberland, who arrived here without a penny,
+and is now worth 150,000 dollars. Returned to Jones's Union Hotel to
+dinner. I may observe, it is the best-conducted house I ever saw, and
+the cleanest, situated in Chestnut-street, opposite the Arcade. After
+dinner, Matthew Williams drove me to the water-works, Fairmount, where
+there is a magnificent view of the town. Philadelphia is most
+bountifully provided with fresh water, which is showered and jerked
+about in all directions. The Water-works are no less ornamental than
+useful, being tastefully laid out as a public garden, and kept in the
+best order. The river is dammed and forced by its own powers into
+certain high tanks or reservoirs, whence the whole city, to the top
+stories, is supplied at 5 dollars a tap. It was a fine evening, and we
+took a long drive, always passing everything on the wrong side. Very bad
+roads, and quite new scenery to me. Returned over a wooden bridge,
+covered, as they all are; and crossed the Schuylkill river, which runs
+parallel with the Delaware, distant about seven miles, and joins it
+there, which makes Philadelphia, like New York, almost an island.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--Heard a splendid sermon from Mr. Barnes, at his
+Presbyterian chapel, Washington-square; text 4th chap. of Philippians,
+and 8th verse: "Finally, brethren, whatsoever things are true,
+whatsoever things are honest, whatsoever things are pure, whatsoever
+things are lovely, whatsoever things are of good report; if there be any
+virtue, and if there be any praise, think on these things." We then
+walked to Christ Church burying-ground, and saw the grave of the
+immortal Franklin. George III. built Christ Church. After dinner took
+another drive to Girard College, a splendid unfinished marble structure:
+when completed will be the richest edifice of modern times. Girard was a
+banker, and died worth 10,700,000 dollars, two millions of which were
+left to educate and provide for orphans of all classes. He was a poor
+French tobacconist, and rose through trading with the West Indies. We
+then drove to the Laurel Hill Cemetery, a beautifully situated place or
+plot of ground, by the Schuylkill river: there is the figure of Sir
+Walter Scott's Old Mortality cut out of solid stone. The cost for
+interment is 3s. 6d. per square foot. We then drove up the
+Wissiocou-road to German Town, where they beat us in making woollen
+drawers, stockings, &c., owing to our laws and the American high tariff.
+Came home by the West, having now driven all round--East, North, and
+South. Had tea; and went to St. John's Episcopal Church, and heard a
+good sermon from the rector, the Rev. Mr. Newton; text, Hebrews i. 11:
+"They shall perish, but thou remainest; and they all shall wax old as
+doth a garment." It was most eloquent. With a population of 250,000,
+they have 250 churches of different sects, and nearly all talented men
+for preachers--indeed, Philadelphia has ever been known for its learning
+and benevolence since its rise. I forgot to say we crossed a _wire
+bridge_, the only one in the world that would bear 80 tons. Home, and to
+bed.
+
+
+_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through all the commercial houses
+again, and like their system better than New York. Lunched off peaches,
+and then drove off to the Mint--not worth seeing. Thence to the Eastern
+Penitentiary, where they have 360 prisoners. The solitary system is
+abominable. I could not walk a happy man beneath the open sky by day, or
+lay me down upon my bed at night, with the consciousness that one human
+creature, for any length of time, lay suffering this unknown punishment,
+and I the cause, or consenting to it in the least degree. The building
+is very large, and kept in perfect order: it cannot be praised too
+highly. We entered into a large chamber, from which seven long passages
+radiate; on either side of which is a long row of low cell-doors,
+numbered. Standing at the central point, and looking down these dreary
+passages, the dull repose and quiet that prevails is awful. I was much
+interested with one prisoner that had nearly completed his seven years,
+who stated that he had been guilty of stealing 100 dollars, and that,
+his conscience upbraiding him, he took them back previous to being found
+out: still he was sentenced. He had a loom, had extracted some colours
+from the yarn, and painted his room all over. But enough. I left it
+labouring under a feeling of melancholy, and visited the Blind Asylum,
+where we saw the system of reading by raised letters beautifully carried
+out. A little girl and boy, about nine, who had been there only one
+year, could read the Bible well: a young lady from Gloucester (England)
+could tell you the latitude and longitude of any place upon a raised
+map; and two others could sing and play well, thoroughly understanding
+music. They take thirty boys and thirty girls upon the charity, and
+educate them so that they can get a living in after-life; and others
+they take at 200 dollars a-year for any period. Strange to say, they
+sometimes get married. I bought some of their work, and printed some of
+the raised letters. Contributed to the charity, and left much pleased.
+And I may here observe--Jones's, the Union Hotel, is very first-rate. He
+is from Warwickshire: all black servants, with a first-rate system. Got
+a good dinner; and then saw the process of hatching chickens by steam. I
+regretted I saw this, as I think I shall never like eggs again. We ought
+to have visited the City Almshouse, Navy Yard, Marine Hospital, Widows'
+Asylum, and many more places, but had not time. We then visited the
+Pennsylvania Hospital, established by William Penn. His statue is
+erected in the front, where he is represented as treating with the
+Indians, after his mission from Charles II. After seeing the patients,
+which are taken free to the number of 200, (others are paid for by
+different institutions,) we saw the splendid painting by West, "Christ
+healing the Sick." We then visited the Musical Fund Hall, and heard the
+far-famed Ethiopian serenaders, Messrs. German, Hanwood, Harrington,
+Warren, and Pelham, upon the accordion, banjo, congo-tambo, and
+bone-castanets, in all of which they stand unrivalled in the world. They
+were representing Niggers' lives, with songs, &c. Home and to bed, tired
+out.
+
+
+_Tuesday._--Started for Baltimore at eight, per rail: crowded as usual.
+Horses drag you out of the different towns: thence steam. The first
+station was Chester: thence across the Schuylkill and Potomac to
+Wilmington; and crossed the Delaware and Susquehanna into Maryland--the
+first _slave_ state I had been in. A shudder involuntarily came over me.
+Having worked up my imagination, I fancied every black I saw was a
+slave. We crossed Havre de Gras, and two or three other beautiful lakes,
+with bridges of wood over, to save us some miles round, exclusively for
+the rail, and arrived at Baltimore Exchange Hotel to dinner. Afterwards
+strolled about the town; and passed the house of Jerome Bonaparte, who
+lives in the park quite retired. All the houses here appear as if built
+within the last few years: the bricks are quite red, and apparently new.
+The women, as in Philadelphia, are very handsome, except their bosoms,
+which are quite flat. I climbed to the top of Washington's Monument. It
+is 180 feet high. The enclosure is flagged with white marble. It was
+erected by the slave state of Maryland. The inscriptions are: "Born 22nd
+Feb., 1732. Died 14th Dec., 1799, aged 67. Commander-in-chief of the
+American army 15th June, 1775. Commission resigned at Annapolis 23rd
+Dec., 1783. Victorious at Trenton 25th Dec., 1776; and conquered Lord
+Cornwallis at York Town Oct., 1781. President of the United States 4th
+March, 1789. Retired to Mount Vernon 4th March, 1797, and died as
+above." It cost half a million dollars. Home and to-bed, tired as
+usual.--Population, 125,000.
+
+
+_Wednesday_ morning, the 18th Sept.--Satisfied myself about business,
+which appears to be in a thriving state. I then visited the Catholic
+Cathedral, which cost 300,000 dollars; St. Paul's Church; and several
+other public buildings; the City Fountain, which supplies the town
+plentifully with spring water; the Battle Monument, erected to the
+memory of those who fell in the defence of Baltimore in 1814--James
+Madison president at the time. Gen. Jackson conquered Sir Henry
+Pakenham at New Orleans in the same year. Jackson was president in 1832,
+and re-elected. This battle took place in the 39th year of Independence.
+General Ross was killed in 1816, at North Point battle, after bombarding
+Fort M'Henry. The army in the United States is only 6000, commanded by
+Major-Gen. Scott. The President is the nominal Commander-in-chief. We
+visited the Race-course, and saw a couple of bad races: it is a
+burlesque after England. After dinner we proceeded per rail to
+Washington City, through Delaware, another slave state; but am happy to
+say both this and Maryland are wearing out--that is, they will soon be
+free. The market-price in these two states is, for men, from 5 to 10
+dollars; and women about half the price. The contrast is great between
+the States and England in regard to windows. Here they cram as many
+windows into a house as it will hold, as there is no duty or tax upon
+anything but business or real property--very wise and just tax. Retired,
+at Brown's Hotel, Washington, at ten, used up, as usual, with the heat.
+
+
+
+THE CAPITOL.
+
+
+_Thursday._--Rose early, much refreshed--as I forgot to mention that,
+although our beds at Baltimore were entirely covered with net, I was
+afraid I should have been eaten alive with mosquitoes. Washington is
+called a capital, having a portion taken from Virginia and Maryland for
+the senators' use. It is a long straggling town, with very wide streets;
+called by some the city of magnificent distances, but, more properly
+speaking, it might be called the city of magnificent intentions. It is
+located in the district of Colombia--a territory of ten miles square,
+formed into a separate and detached jurisdiction by the constitution of
+the United States. The city was laid out by General Washington, and
+Congress took up its abode there in 1800. The Capitol is situated in an
+area of twenty-two and a half acres; is a splendid building, on an
+eminence close to the Potomac river. The Hall of Representatives is in
+the second story of the south wing, and is of the form of the ancient
+Grecian theatre. There are twenty-four columns of variegated native
+marble from the banks of the Potomac. There is a splendid portrait of
+Lafayette, and another of Washington, by Vanderlyn. Their present
+speaker is Mr. White--elected the same as ours. The rotunda is very
+imposing. In its centre stands the great statue, by Greenough, of
+Washington; and around the walls are the various pictures ordered by
+Congress--"The Declaration of Independence," "The Surrender at
+Saratoga," "The Surrender and Capitulation at York Town," and
+"Washington resigning his Sword at Annapolis," all by Trumbull. I was
+much struck with Chapman's great picture of "The Baptism of the Indian
+Princess Pocahontas, before her Marriage with Rolph, the Englishman."
+The Vice-President of the United States presides in the Senate-house:
+his salary is only 5000 dollars, and the President's 25,000 dollars. In
+the library are portraits of Tyler, Adams, Jefferson, Washington,
+Madison, Munro, and Peyton; also Randolph, the first president in 1774
+and 1775, and Hancock, the second. Congress meets on the 1st December,
+and sits till June. Representatives are paid two dollars a-day. The
+rotunda has been the inaugural scene of General Jackson, Van Buren, and
+General Harrison. It was here Lawrence, the maniac, attempted the life
+of General Jackson. The statuary in the rotunda is, "William Penn's
+Treaty with the Indians:" he is in the act of delivering the treaty to a
+couple of chiefs. There is "The Indian Princess Pocahontas rescuing
+Capt. Smith from the Indians." There is "Boone's Combat with the
+Indians;" and over the eastern door is represented "The Landing of the
+Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth." They were persecuted in England, and fled
+to New England, amongst wild savages, enemies to civilization and
+Christianity. The Puritans landed at Plymouth (Massachusetts), and
+commenced the first English settlement. The Capitol cost 3,000,000
+dollars. There are fifty-two senators, and twenty-two representatives.
+
+The President's house is in the western part of the city; and stands on
+a plot of twenty acres, forty-four feet above the Potomac. It is 170
+feet front, and eighty-six deep; built of freestone, with Ionic
+pilasters. It was shown to us by one Martin Renehan, an Irishman; and as
+the President was absent, we visited all the rooms, which were meanly
+furnished--indeed, carpets and chair-bottoms worn out; a common pine
+dining-table, which the Prince de Joinville, Lord Ashburton, Lord
+Morpeth, Mr. Fox, and Mr. Pakenham, our present minister, with others,
+to the number of forty-four (they never have more), dined off. My house
+is much better furnished; and the President only keeps eighteen
+servants, including master of the household, &c. The private
+drawing-room is the best, but that is bad. We saw the bed General
+Harrison died in. We visited the Treasury department: this is a noble
+structure, 457 feet in length, and after the architecture of the temple
+of Minerva, at Athens. There are 250 rooms. It is adjoining the
+department of state. The Post-office is of the Corinthian style, marble
+front. The plan is a parallelogram, 204 feet in extent, and sixty-five
+wide. The Patent-office is 280 feet in length, and seventy in depth,
+where patents are taken out at the cost of 30 dollars. We saw one that
+astonished us not a little--a machine for making railways, called a
+Pile-driver, which makes a railway over a lake, swamp, or forest, and
+finishes it straight away. It is in operation in the southern states,
+and found to answer, at one-tenth the cost in England. It is so
+incredible, I will not describe it. There is another, called the
+Excavator, that bores through hills, &c. and quickens the work fiftyfold
+to manual labour. Both these are worked by steam, and the most
+incredible inventions I ever saw. Otis is the inventor of the latter.
+There is also a screw-patent in operation in Rhode Island. In the
+spacious room above are preserved Washington's equipments in war-time.
+They are uncostly, plain, and humble, showing the unostentatious mind of
+the great man. Here are all the presents from different courts: members
+of the United States Government are not allowed to keep them. There is a
+costly diamond snuffbox from the Emperor of Russia; and a large bottle
+of pure attar of roses, three times the price of gold. There are
+portraits of Gortez, conqueror of Mexico in 1521; of Columbus, the
+discoverer of America; of Cuvier, the French naturalist; and one I was
+much struck with, by Spagnoletti, of Job and his three friends (see Job
+xiv.): also one of Wat Tyler!
+
+We visited the old departments of Government, State, War, and General
+Government. The rooms of the various secretaries are furnished plainly.
+We were disappointed at the Navy Yard--no appearance like England. The
+first object introduced was a piece of cannon taken from the English
+fleet when Sir George Cockburn came up the Potomac. The sight of this
+gave me a chill, as it was the first time I had ever seen England's arms
+in other powers' possession. The name of Sir George Cockburn is hated,
+as he would have destroyed recklessly, had not Ross, a Fifeshire man,
+restrained him. Ross's memory is as much loved as the other's is hated.
+This was in 1814. On the left is the house of the commandant of the
+yard--a captain in the navy. They make anchors, blocks, and tackle of
+all sorts for ships' use. There are several hundred men usually employed
+at the yard. Several first-rate vessels have been built here. They told
+us that they sunk several of their vessels here when they heard of their
+defeat at Bladensburg; but I guess it was the English that sunk them.
+There are many more sights, but our time would not allow us to tarry.
+
+I had much wished to have gone down to Charlestown, and then into the
+far West; but the contemplation of slavery, the pain of living in the
+constant intercourse with slave servants, and the awfully hot weather,
+which might have caused me to take the fever--added to all, my great
+anxiety to receive letters from England--particularly from my wife,
+from whom I had now been absent five weeks without hearing--the
+pleasures of memory having almost kindled into the charming
+reminiscences of my first love--decided me to take my course North
+again; and I must acknowledge I left Washington with regret, and the
+contemplation that, ere many years roll over, it will be a magnificent
+city. I may here remark there is a telegraph, or galvanic power, fixed
+between the Capitol and Baltimore, that takes the news forty miles in a
+second. This is a good line of single rails, which they all are. At
+Baltimore we took steam up the Pennsylvanian states to Frenchtown--about
+sixty miles; and thence rail twenty miles to Newcastle; thence steam up
+the Delaware to Philadelphia; thence rail to Amboy, through Burlington,
+Bordingtown, and Hidestown. Amboy is only five miles from the Atlantic,
+where we came in from England. We came up Staten Island Sound, with New
+Jersey on the left, and passed Elizabeth Port and Payrosville, and saw
+Newark and the Pacific river about eight miles in the distance: then
+passed the Narrows, Governor's Island, Ellis and Gibbet Islands, and
+arrived at the Battery at seven, after travelling 400 miles in
+twenty-seven hours. Received my letters at the Astor, and was pleased
+with their news: retired to rest very tired, after my companion had read
+two chapters in the Bible to me, which has been our custom since we
+came together.
+
+I have now seen enough of the independent states of America to convince
+me that Henry Clay is the proper man for President. The whole tenor of
+his life has been for his country's good. He feels the moral degradation
+the states of Pennsylvania, Indiana, Illinois, and Mississippi have
+brought upon his country by repudiation; and he would, if returned,
+advocate appropriating the waste lands to paying their debts. He would
+also _veto_ annexing Texas and the Oregon territory, and by such means
+keep the southern and northern states from collision. My humble opinion
+is, if the southern states get hold of Texas, as their interests are
+diametrically opposed to the interests of the North, all they require is
+a little more strength to set about a separation.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning.--Rose dissatisfied with the Astor, they having
+placed us four stories high to sleep. Called upon several friends in the
+course of the day. Nothing particular in view. In the evening visited
+the Chatham Theatre, a regular Yankee place, to see the original Mr.
+Rice perform a burlesque _Othello_!! and the farce _Here's a Go_! He
+acted to admiration, and sang lots of Nigger songs, amongst which his
+masterpiece, "Jump Jim Crow," was encored three times. He placed us in a
+private box, and we spent half an hour with him. A more gentlemanly man
+I never met. He is retiring upon a fortune made of L10,000. Home and to
+bed at eleven.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--Mr. Pearce called for me to go and spend the day at
+Staten Island, at the Pavilion, where, he was stopping. We took a long
+drive past the Quarantine, where the doctor boarded the _Western_. Saw
+the Hospitals, Fort George, the Telegraph, and the very handsome
+buildings of Mr. Goodue and Mr. Brown, and a magnificent marble building
+called "The Sailor's Snug Home:" an Englishman left the money to build
+it. And I was then introduced to the Flandens, Mr. Pearce's family, and
+Mr. De la Forest, the French consul, a relative. Dined, and returned to
+the Astor. Paid my bill, and ready to start up the North River for
+Albany in the morning.
+
+
+
+
+VISIT TO THE CANADAS;
+NIAGARA;
+RETURN TO NEW YORK & BOSTON;
+AND
+VOYAGE HOME.
+
+
+_Monday, September 24, 1843._--We proceeded on board the _Empire_, Capt.
+S.K. Roe, bound to Troy and Albany. Her length is 330 feet,
+one-sixteenth of a mile; breadth of beam, 30 feet; extreme width, 62
+feet; burden, 1040 tons; and 600-horse power: only draws 4 ft. 10 in.
+water. She is past all description. The Hudson River, the sources of
+which are in 44 deg. N. lat., was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609. We
+passed Jersey City and Stevens's Seat, celebrated for American
+steam-boats. The mantle of Fulton may be said to have fallen upon him.
+We then passed West Hoboken and the Beacon Race-course. Seventeen miles
+down we passed Philipsburgh, an old Dutch settlement. At the Tappan Sea
+the river is three miles broad. The Sing-Sing state-prison is in view at
+Nyack; and the Croton River comes in about two miles from here. Thence
+Vrededicker Hook, on the top of which there is a clear crystal lake of
+three or four miles circumference. Thence we pass Stony Point. It really
+is past description, and would occupy a book to do justice to the
+magnificent scenery. Passed Anthony's Nose, Buttermilk Falls, Sugar
+Loaf, West Point scenery, and the Capitol Hotel. There is a public
+edifice for 250 cadets. The academy was built in 1802. We then pass West
+Point Foundry. The highland scenery is sublime. We then pass Newburgh,
+and come in sight of the Catskill mountains, the highest (say 3000 feet)
+in the States: we did not ascend them, although report says we should
+have been repaid. We arrived at Albany at six o'clock. Population of
+Albany, 25,000; the capital of New York State.
+
+
+_Tuesday_ morning.--Looked through the State House--a fine building. The
+Congress Hotel we found comfortable. Nothing worth noticing in the town.
+We took stage and passed Rensselaer's Estate all the way to Troy. The
+cause of dispute is the doubt the farmers have that one of the Dutch
+kings did not give and covenant the seestates, which the Van Rensselaer
+can prove by parchment: thus the tarring and feathering is done. Troy
+population is 40,000: a nice town, with a splendid arsenal, 156 miles
+from New York. The Hudson is navigable no farther. We took a chaise to
+the Shaker Village of Watervleit, where we found a Shaker settlement of
+about 120 people: there are three more in the neighbourhood; in all
+about 400. At this place they have 2000 acres of good land, their own:
+they grow everything they eat, and are all teetotallers. We entered the
+house where the Shaker manufactures are sold. We purchased a few
+dollars' worth, and they politely presented my friend and I with a book
+each. The old gentleman and lady were very civil, and showed us over the
+gardens, where they grow seed for sale, which is sold by Wilcox, London.
+They are famed for it all over the world. Pine-apples are growing in
+abundance; also water-melons, tomatoes, &c. The place was in beautiful
+order, and they appeared happy. They declined to show us the chapel, or
+the lady Shakers. They all live in single blessedness, and devoted to a
+life of celibacy. They are called Shakers from their peculiar form of
+adoration, which consists of a dance, performed by the men and women of
+all ages, advancing and retiring in a preposterous sort of trot. All the
+possessions and revenues of the settlement are thrown into a common
+stock, which is managed by the elders. They are capital farmers, and
+good breeders of cattle; honest and just in their transactions; and are
+the only class of people, either gentle or simple, that can resist
+_thievish_ tendencies in horse-dealing. We returned to Lansingburgh,
+where packers of beef live, or rather butchers, where they kill and cut
+bullocks up by steam, as many as 20,000 in the season. At Cincinnati in
+the West they kill 3000 pigs a-day, or 1,000,000 a-year, in the same
+way. Back to Troy to dinner, and took railway to Saratoga Springs. This
+is a beautiful place, and the water is most beautiful. From every part
+of the states they flock here for three months in the Summer. Population
+of residents, 2500. New York drapers open stores here. I tasted the
+Congress spring, Colombian, the Putnam, and one other, all of which
+tasted very much like German Seltzer water, but very purgative. The
+United States Inn was our quarters, kept by Mr. Murvin and Judge Murvin.
+They dine in the season 1000 and 1100 a-day, and lodge regularly between
+600 and 700. I cannot speak too highly of this house. Mr. Murvin
+accompanied us next morning by stage to White Hall, along with Mr.
+Blanchard, the proprietor of all the stages on this line--a fine fellow.
+We went along the Champlain Canal, which connects the Hudson River and
+Lake Champlain, past Glen's Falls. We passed through the region of
+Burgoyne's operations, near the place of his surrender; Fort Miller, and
+Fort Edward, where Miss M'Crea was murdered; and the tree to which
+General Putnam was bound in 1757. This fifty miles was the most
+frightful travelling I ever had. Great black bears prowl here. Trees and
+planks were frequently laid across the road to fill up holes; and
+frequently there would be openings in bridges that a horse could have
+gone slap into. After many, as I supposed, hairbreadth escapes, going
+two or three feet into holes, &c., we arrived at White Hall--at the
+junction of the canal and lake navigation--a place of business before
+the revolution. Major Skeen lived here. We took the steam-boat
+_Saranac_, Capt. Lathorp, who politely gave my companion and I a
+state-cabin. This lake, for beauty of scenery and historical incident,
+is one of the most interesting in America. It is close to Lake George,
+which lake, I regret to say, the boats were taken off for the winter.
+Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in 1609, and extends
+to St. John's, Canada, 120 miles. We passed Ticonderoga, which was an
+important military post during the colonial wars. General Abercrombie
+was defeated here, with the loss of 1941 men, in 1758. Burgoyne was
+here. We then passed Crown Point, where the British Government expended
+two millions sterling. We met the Burlington steamer, the most neat and
+beautiful boat in the United States: were introduced to Captain R.W.
+Sharman, the beloved commander. This is halfway--an important town of
+3000 people. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, as we are now
+in that state. We then passed Port Kent, Valcour Island, and
+Plattsburgh, which is situated at both sides of the Saranac River. It is
+a military post. Here there was a great battle both by land and water:
+the British land-force was commanded by Sir George Prevost, and the
+naval by Commodore Downie; the Americans by land General Macomb, and
+water Commodore M'Donough. They fought two hours and twenty minutes, and
+the British surrendered. We passed Cumberland-house to the United States
+line, which has recently been settled by treaty by Lord Ashburton and
+Mr. Webster.
+
+We here entered Canada, and laid quiet till morning, it being foggy. The
+Isle Aux Noix is the first military post of the English. We arrived at
+St. John's at seven. This is the extremity of Lake Champlain, which is
+here checked by the commencement of the Chambly Rapids to the St.
+Lawrence. We visited the British barracks. The 81st Regiment was
+stationed here. This fort sustained a siege of six weeks before it
+surrendered to General Montgomery in November, 1775. We breakfasted, and
+proceeded to Montreal by railway, or rather to Laprairie, a dirty town,
+and crossed the St. Lawrence in a steam-boat. Montreal has 40,000
+inhabitants, and is the seat of the Provincial Government. It looks like
+an old English town.
+
+I may observe that the thermometer stands here to-day at 50 deg., and was a
+week ago at 94 deg.. The sudden change has nearly knocked me up. Starved to
+death, and no fires, except on the floor. Not much comfort in the
+Exchange Hotel; dirty bedrooms and small. Admired the Roman cathedral:
+the bell is seven tons weight: it is one of the finest in the world. And
+the docks are first-rate, with lots of shipping. All bustle and
+business. Walked about the town. Saw the Courthouse, the Parade-ground,
+and all the principal buildings. To bed--tired, cold, and weary.
+
+
+_Friday_ morning, September 27th.--This being mail-day, wrote several
+letters to England, and forwarded some newspapers. In the afternoon
+called upon several customers, and found out the stores of all. Rickards
+and Leeming dined with me. To bed early. Still a bad cold.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning.--A regular day of business. Called upon every
+customer, and found them most civil and polite. I may mention Mr.
+Cuvillier, sen.; Mr. Masson, of Robertson and Co.'s; Mr. Colquhoun, of
+Scott, Tyer, and Co.'s; and Mr. Paterson, of Gillespie, Moffat, and
+Co.'s--four of the largest houses;--indeed, I cannot speak too highly
+of all. Dined, and took steam-vessel, _The Queen_, to Quebec. A cold,
+foggy night. Turned in at seven.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--Found we had lain-to since one o'clock on account of
+the fog. Had a most refreshing sleep, and rose at seven to breakfast. I
+could not but admire the St. Lawrence River--the beauty of this noble
+stream at all points is enchanting. We passed Richelieu, where the corn
+is grown, in part, that is sent into England. We passed the lovely
+island of St. Helen's, and over the rapids of St. Mavey, Richelieu, 45
+miles from Montreal. Thence Lake St. Peter, nine miles wide. The St.
+Lawrence does not average more than one mile. We then approach the
+Richelieu Rapids. The river again becomes interesting. The churches
+appear with their tin domes and spires. The rafts, with houses built
+upon them, are floating down the river like some moving world. We left
+the eastern townships on the right, south of the St. Lawrence, which
+join the State of Maine and Vermont on the left, or north. We pass Cape
+Health River, thirty miles behind which is Jackcartier, a settlement for
+the Irish. At Chasidiere, six miles from Quebec, we pass some great
+lumber or wood establishments, where ships load for England. We pass
+Daleam's Island and Point Levi, and approach the harbour, where forests
+of British shipmasts are seen along the shore, with Orleans Island
+a-head. Lumber coves abound here. The grim and powerful batteries, where
+all the ingenuity of military skill has been exhausted to produce
+another Gibraltar, are seen on the left.
+
+Two o'clock, P.M.--We sojourned at Payne's Hotel. He is an Uxbridge man,
+and most attentive. We took a carriage to Montmorence Falls, and were
+much pleased. Straggling, snow-white cottages abound here for miles.
+Quebec, lat. 46 deg. 59' 15"; long. 71 deg. 13'.
+
+I may here observe, that Lower Canada, embracing and including Montreal
+to the Gulf, about 400 miles down, has a population of from 600,000 to
+700,000: Quebec and its suburbs has about 30,000. The vessels resorting
+to this port are about 1000 during the short season of five months.
+Quebec is situated on the north-west side of the St. Lawrence, with the
+River St. Charles on the north. The volume and depth of the St. Lawrence
+is unequalled: it moves with a speed of three or four miles an hour. The
+oceanic influence is great. To-day it is 30 deg. below zero, and in the
+summer it is sometimes 100 deg. above (Fahrenheit's scale).
+
+We returned to the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell, and a paltry
+monument is erected. This is a fine view. Near this is the cove where
+General Wolfe and the British troops crept and scrambled up to the
+summit of the heights, which resulted in the defeat of Montcalm in 1759,
+and the prostration of French power in Canada.
+
+
+_Monday_ morning.--Attended to business till one. Then took a drive to
+see the Indian village of Lorette. The squaws are not to my mind,
+although admired by others. The men get their living by hunting racoons,
+&c. They make beautiful work, some of which we bought, and returned. I
+had a beautiful drive on the St. Foy Road; quite in the English
+style--both houses, fields, gardens, and stables; decidedly the
+prettiest drive since I left England. I observed all the windows were
+double, and double doors, as the snow remains on the ground for six
+months together. To the Exchange and Library, where we had free access.
+The inclined plane leading to the citadel is 500 feet. On the top of the
+bastion is a covered way and gravel walk, with cannon pointing in every
+direction. Here is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding panorama.
+Within the citadel are the magazines, armoury, storehouses, &c., and the
+messrooms and barracks for the officers, covered with tin. This fortress
+combines every invention of science and precaution of art that
+consummate skill and ingenuity could suggest, for the protection and
+security of the city and garrison; and I should say the D---l could not
+force it. The area of the space and works within is forty acres. The
+fortifications are continued all round the upper town, in bastions and
+solid masonry, and ramparts from 25 to 30 feet high, and of equal
+thickness, bristling with heavy cannon. There is a beautiful esplanade,
+or public promenade, which is much frequented. The guard are very
+strict, owing to Americans prying about very suspiciously at times.
+
+
+_Tuesday_ morning.--Finished my business satisfactorily. We visited the
+old Parliament-house, now a library and museum. There is also the French
+Roman Catholic cathedral in the Marketplace, and the English cathedral.
+The monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, the most noble general France ever
+had,--
+
+      Mortem virtus communem;
+          Famam historia;
+    Monumentum posteritas dedit.
+
+or--
+
+     Valour gave a common death;
+       History a common fame;
+    Posterity a common monument.
+
+is situated on the west side of Des Carriere's-street, leading from the
+Place d'Armes to the glacis of Cape Diamond. In front is a broad walk
+overlooking the Castle-gardens, the harbour, and the shore of Orleans.
+We had not time to visit the Chaudiere Falls, but took the fine steamer
+_Montreal_, and found ourselves at Montreal at seven on Wednesday
+morning, where we sojourned Tetue's Hotel, being sickened of the
+Exchange, at as they wanted to rob us. Attended to business all day, and
+had Mr. Kidson (Glasgow), Mr. Redpath, Mr. Hall, Mr. Easton, and Mr. A.
+M'Farlane to dinner.
+
+
+_Thursday._--At business all day. Rained incessantly. Dined with Mr.
+Geddes, who treated me like a prince. He has a nice wife and an amiable
+family. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Leeming, and
+appointed him our agent for the retail trade. Home, and to bed, and had
+a good night's rest.
+
+
+_Friday._--Rained incessantly. Found the benefit of my new rig-out of
+flannel and India-rubber boots. Visited the House of Assembly. The
+Speaker, my kind friend Mr. Cuvillier, had given me an order. He has
+L1000 a year, and the representatives two dollars a day. The Legislative
+Council Chamber is worth seeing. I spent the evening with Mr. Rickards.
+I finished up the most satisfactory business I had done in any town
+since I left home. Montreal is very flourishing--the metropolis of
+Canada--and will double its population, now 50,000, ere long, if Sir
+Charles Metcalfe is supported; but the French Canadians, and the Irish,
+who abound, led by their priests, are brewing dissatisfaction and
+discord. His councillors have just resigned, and a general election is
+taking place. May he succeed is my earnest wish!
+
+
+_Saturday_, 6th.--We left Montreal at twelve at noon per stage to
+Lachine. We passed the mountains and Sir C. Metcalfe's private house on
+the road. We took a steamer (the _Chieftain_) here to Dickenson's
+Landing, thirty-eight miles. We passed on the left, at starting, an
+Indian village, called Cachnawago, where the Ojibbeway tribe live. We
+saw several in their canoes. On the left, just before we landed, we saw
+the Beauharnois Canal, of E.G. Wakefield notoriety. He must either have
+been bought, or, if not, he certainly must have been a fool to allow the
+canal to be cut on the American side of the St. Lawrence. The Yankees
+are thirsting for British blood; and, should they be successful in
+Canada, this costly canal goes. We now took stage for sixteen miles, on
+a planked road, and with a first-rate team. On the left were the rapids
+of the St. Lawrence, or Cascades. I would not have believed had I not
+seen a small steamer, drawing about four feet of water, going down at an
+awful rate. I expected every minute it would have been dashed to atoms.
+How they escape, eight or ten a day, as they go up the canal and return
+that day, is astonishing. This is the most incredible sight I have
+witnessed. Roebuck, the Member for Bath, was born here. On arriving at
+Chateau-du-Luc we got on board a very fine boat, the _Highlander_,
+Captain Stearns--a fine fellow. After proceeding forty-one miles, we
+reached the Cornwall Canal, where we were much impeded by seven locks.
+This splendid canal, the finest in the world, is one hundred feet wide,
+and the locks fifty-two: it is twelve miles long, and about fourteen
+feet deep. We now pass from Lower to Upper Canada, direct from east to
+west; and about six miles forward we find the State of New York on the
+left. About thirty miles farther we call at Ogdensburgh, on the American
+side, and Prescott right opposite, where the windmill stands dilapidated
+from the skirmish the patriots had here, when the English demolished the
+lot. We called at Maitland for wood, and thence to Brockville, and
+glided up the Thousand Islands: there really are a thousand islands
+between here and Kingston. The foliage on the trees was grand--all
+colours. It passed all description; and the trees actually grow out of
+the rocks with which all the islands are covered. About ten miles from
+Kingston, on one of the islands, lives the notorious Bill Johnston, the
+patriot. We arrived at Kingston at four P.M., 216 miles in twenty-eight
+hours.
+
+
+_Sunday._--Sojourned at Lambton-house for the sake of its name, and
+walked about this very poor town. It is a straggling place. The late
+Government-house is neither elegant nor commodious, and is now a
+Sunday-school: still it is the only house of any importance in the
+neighbourhood. We walked down to a spring of mineral water, resembling
+Harrogate, and one spring much stronger--kept by a hearty couple, Bone
+and his wife, from Plymouth. They propose getting a large hotel built by
+next year, to vie with Saratoga. I wish them success. They were very
+kind. Mr. King came and spent the evening with me.
+
+
+_Monday._--Found the tradesmen of the right sort: still their operations
+are confined. They bitterly complain, and I think _justly_, of Lord
+Stanley removing the seat of government. Rents are reduced half, and
+many houses are standing empty, and are likely to remain so. Many had
+built and enlarged their premises, through the assurance of Sir C.
+Metcalfe that the Government would not be removed. Perhaps it was not
+his fault: his councillors became, or rather wished to become, his
+masters; and the removal took place during the illness of Sir C. Bagot.
+There is a faction in these provinces who will bring about rebellion and
+an outbreak worse than those of 1837 and 1838. I hope I may be deceived.
+One thing is certain, the Governor will not get a majority, he having
+dissolved his Parliament; and if he continues to govern it must be with
+his Council, without representatives. My warm-hearted Herefordshire
+friend, Mr. Wilson, drove me to see the gaol, which is well and wisely
+governed, and excellently regulated in every respect. The men are
+employed as shoemakers, ropemakers, blacksmiths, tailors, carpenters,
+and stonecutters, and are building the prison, which is far advanced.
+The net profits the last year were L3000, after paying all expenses. The
+female prisoners are occupied in needlework. Among them was a beautiful
+girl of twenty, who had been there nearly three years. She acted as
+bearer of secret despatches for the self-styled patriots on Navy Island
+during the Canadian insurrection; sometimes dressed as a girl, and
+carrying them in her stays; sometimes attired as a boy, and secreting
+them in the lining of her hat. In the latter character she always rode
+as a boy. She could govern any horse that any man could ride, and could
+drive four in hand with the best whip in those parts. Setting forth on
+one of her patriotic missions, she appropriated to herself the first
+horse she could lay her hands on; and this offence had brought her where
+I saw her. She had a lovely face, though there was a lurking devil in
+her bright eye. I dined with my friend, and went on board the steamer
+_Princess Royal_, for Toronto, at eight.
+
+
+_Tuesday_ morning, six o'clock.--We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving
+town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It
+is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper
+Canada. We passed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right
+Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed--216 miles long,
+and 90 miles wide--a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at
+times. We arrived at Stone's Hotel, Toronto, at three o'clock, P.M. The
+country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself
+is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well
+paved and lighted with gas--the only place in Canada, except Montreal,
+where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops
+excellent--many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving
+country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and
+public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of
+regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the
+Reform Association, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and
+preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This
+body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where
+it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest
+tired, at eleven o'clock.
+
+Population of Toronto, 20,000.
+
+
+_Wednesday._--This town must rise in commerce, and must stand second to
+Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to
+depend upon--good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The
+women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in
+consequence of the climate. At two o'clock I took the _Eclipse_
+mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all
+these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well
+paid--salary not more than L300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario,
+and passed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right:
+healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of
+wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom
+of the lake we passed through a short canal into Burlington Bay--a
+beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of
+the navigation.
+
+
+_Thursday_ morning.--Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000
+inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is
+the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a
+partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty
+branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased
+me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There
+is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the
+distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab,
+who made such a formidable stand for the constitution against the rebels
+L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.
+
+
+_Friday._--Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my
+business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new
+college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the
+Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did
+not like, as there is no work for the prisoners--all lying idly
+about--great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating
+the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood,
+which is very comfortable to walk upon.
+
+
+_Saturday._--Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that
+town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000
+inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where
+their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort
+at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were
+now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place
+right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and
+blown up. We then took rail seven miles, passed Drummondsville
+battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.
+
+
+
+
+THE FALLS.
+
+
+Oh my God! how I was stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of
+the scene! It was not until I reached Table Rock, and looked upon the
+fall of bright green water, that it came upon me in its full might and
+majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart an image of beauty,
+to remain there changeless and indelible until it ceases to beat. It is
+overpowering to think that the outpourings of lakes Superior, Huron,
+Erie, Michigan, and St. Clare, covering a surface of 150,000 square
+miles, all roll down this 157 feet fall, with, it is said, sixteen times
+the power, deducting one-third for waste, of all the water-power used in
+Great Britain. I wandered to and fro, and saw the cataracts from all
+points of view. At the Great Horseshoe is decidedly the best view, near
+Table Rock: you can see the rapids approaching the verge as if gathering
+strength to take the giant leap. When the sun shines the rainbow appears
+like molten gold upon the spray; and when the day is gloomy it crumbles
+away like snow, or like the front of a great chalk cliff. But always
+does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down. The rise of spray
+is great at times. But enough.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning, very early, I went down a spiral staircase leading to
+the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, where I could have passed 153 feet
+behind the falling sheet, but I soon got wet, and returned. Table Rock
+projects out many feet above this place, and will come down ere long, as
+it is much cracked. I then visited an Episcopal church at
+Drummondsville, where the desperate battle was fought--a beautiful
+village above the Falls--and heard a good sermon. Returned to
+Clifton-house, and ascended to the promenade on the top, which is very
+commanding. After dinner, with Mr. Parker, from the Caledonia Springs,
+on the Ottaway River--with whom, and his lovely daughter, I had
+travelled from Toronto--I started by the ferry-boat for the American
+side. This gave me another fine view, as we went close under them. On
+landing at the other side, we had to ascend a ladder about 200 feet
+high. We ordered a carriage at the Cataract Hotel, and drove to the
+whirlpool, four miles down the Rapids. This is an awful place, and
+indescribable. We then walked over Bath Island and Iris (or Goat)
+Island: here again is a splendid view. We saw Gull Island, where man has
+never been; and in the Rapids we saw the hull of the ship Detroit,
+fitted up in 1841 for the purpose of being sent over the Falls, but she
+went to pieces before she got over the Rapids. It got dark, and
+descending those long stairs, and crossing the Niagara River, was not to
+my mind. However, we landed safe. Tired, and to bed.
+
+
+_Monday_ morning.--Visited Mr. Barnett's Museum. Bought some sticks
+peculiar to Niagara, and Indian curiosities; and looked into the large
+camera obscura, which reproduced every sight at the Falls. Ascertained
+from Mr. B. that the Canada Fall is half a mile in circumference, and
+the American a quarter of a mile. The depth of the water on the verge of
+the Horseshoe Fall is twenty feet. The Falls can be heard from five to
+twenty miles, according to wind and atmosphere: it is said they have
+been heard at Toronto, forty miles. The quantity of water supposed to go
+over the Falls in one hour is 102,093,750 tuns. I must now take my leave
+of the Falls with regret, as my friend Mr. Stephenson called, and drove
+me to see a Canadian farmer. I was much pleased with his farm and
+husbandry, and his domestic fireside. He makes L50 a year by his bees,
+and grows almost everything that the family eats. We then drove to the
+burning springs in the Niagara River, and over to Chippeway, where Mr.
+S. has a saw-mill, of twenty-horse power, that will cut up 11,000
+superficial feet of wood a day. Chippeway has 700 inhabitants. We left
+it per steamer, and saw the Rapids to great advantage before they dashed
+over the Falls. Here, to the right, is Navy Island, of 304 acres, which
+was occupied by Mackenzie, Van Ransselaer, and about 400 Patriots, in
+1837-8, for five weeks. Their object was to collect recruits to
+revolutionize Canada. On the American shore, on the left, is Schlosser
+landing and wharf, where the _Caroline_ was moored when Capt. Drew, the
+commander of a squadron of five steamers, cut her out, towed her into
+the stream, set fire to her, and sent her over the Falls blazing. The
+patriots fled after this. M'Leod was tried by the Americans, and
+acquitted. Opposite Navy Island was the place where poor Usher lived
+that was shot by two Yankees, who suspected he knew of the _Caroline_
+affair. About thirty miles up the Niagara River we got into Lake Erie,
+300 miles long; and on the right (Canada side) is the Welland Canal,
+which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, a splendid undertaking by
+Government, 32 miles long. Here you can see the mist that is caused, or
+spray rising from the chasm of the Falls, at this distance. On the left
+is the Erie Canal, which conveys all traffic to and from New York; and a
+little farther we arrive in the busy, bustling harbour of Buffalo,
+whence ships and steamers sail for all parts of the far West and
+Southern states. We drove to the United States Hotel, and to bed.
+
+Population of Buffalo, 25,000.
+
+
+_Tuesday_, the 15th.--This is the queen of the lake cities, admirably
+situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, and the head of the Niagara River.
+All produce and traffic of every description for the Western country
+must go here, to be reshipped from the canal boats. The Erie Canal is
+eighty feet wide, and thirteen deep. The streets are broad, and
+intersect at right angles. The buildings are in general decent--some are
+splendid: the stores recently erected are four and five stories high;
+and, strange to say, not a single dry-goods importer in the town. We
+drove round the neighbourhood, and examined a poor-house of paupers and
+lunatics. I left at four, East for Rochester--population, 23,000: 75
+miles; and Auburn, 78 farther--population, 7000. Visited the New York
+State Prison, the largest in the world: they make here, as at Kingston,
+every description of article: about 800 convicts at work daily. Lett,
+who blew up Brock's monument, is here: I saw him daily. I was really
+more pleased here than at any previous sight. The discipline,
+cleanliness, and behaviour were astonishing. At twelve they marched to
+dinner in Indian files, with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their
+overseer, head erect. The muffled bell strikes at four, and labour is
+suspended. I bought some very good cutlery manufactured by the convicts.
+Auburn is two miles from Lake Cuyaga. Left here at two for Syracuse--26
+miles: population, 8000. Thence to Utica--53 miles: population, 14,000.
+Broke down on the road, and, detained three hours, was obliged to stop
+till four in the morning. Thence for Schenectady--78 miles: population,
+5000; and to Albany--16 miles (326 miles). The most tedious journey I
+ever had in my life. I had a long talk on the way with a very
+intelligent farmer, who told me the best breed of sheep they get from
+England are called esquirol or merino; mugs do not answer; and that best
+parts of mutton were sold at 3 cents per lb. Cattle, the short-horned,
+they imported, and the meat sold at 2-1/2 cents; pork, 4 cents; cheese,
+6-1/2 cents; and butter, 11 cents. They are far behind us in horses. In
+Long Island and Rhode Island they are improving the breed. Arrived at
+Albany at eleven, A.M. Found there were no lace-importers here--all buy
+in New York. Saw the State-house--a noble building, where the
+representatives and state senators deliberate. Also was shown over the
+Government buildings for the management of the state; and took my
+departure on board the _Knickerbocker_, a new steamer, most
+magnificently fitted up, 325 feet long, and painted in the most superb
+style. We had about 700 passengers, and plenty of berths for all.
+Arrived at the Globe Hotel at seven.
+
+
+_Friday_ morning.--A regular wet day. Got a bad cold. Made several
+calls. Visited the American Institution or Exposition in the evening,
+where all descriptions of domestic manufacture, implements, &c., are
+exposed for inspection and prizes: also cattle, horses, and a ploughing
+match: 30,000 people had attended during the week. Such expositions are
+very desirable. Spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Green, and retired
+to rest at eleven.
+
+
+_Saturday_, the 19th.--No mail, although fifteen days out. Took leave of
+all customers, finished my business, and satisfied myself that there are
+not more than six lace-importers in New York whom I would trust, most of
+whom we shall have arranged with Mr. S. Pickersgill for our future
+journey. Visited Barnham Museum, the owner of Tom Thumb; and found out
+he is an English-bred boy, and no American giant. Spent a quiet evening
+with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Retired to bed early: could not sleep for
+reflecting.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning.--No mail. Most anxious for my despatches. Dr. Keen
+called, and had a walk. Paid a visit to Dr. Dewey's handsome Unitarian
+chapel, and heard an excellent sermon. Spent an hour more with Dr. Keen,
+and dined with W.C. Pickersgill, Esq., our banker, a most intelligent,
+well-informed man. He is the partner of Fielding Brothers, Liverpool,
+and married Miss Riggs of Baltimore. Took tea and spent the evening with
+A.T. Stewart and his wife, my fellow-passengers out, and first-rate
+people; and retired to my bedroom to read the Bible at nine.
+
+
+_Monday._--A most unpleasant journey. Took the Philadelphia rail to
+Elizabethtown. Thence to Sommerville, and to Clover-hill per waggon, in
+search of Mr. D----'s brother. Arrived at three o'clock, and found he
+was from home: waited at a farmhouse till ten, when he arrived, and I
+soon found out that the American atmosphere had contaminated him. A
+regular thief!--would not pay his brothers (B---- and D----) a cent out
+of L300 he owes them. Although I was miserable both in body and mind, I
+benefited by what I saw at this humble place. I saw happiness without
+ostentation: a good husband and amiable wife. They strove to make me
+comfortable. I had mush and milk for supper, lapped myself up in a
+blanket, and laid down till five in the morning. Moses M. Bateman drove
+me back 16 miles, and I returned to New York (70 miles) after a
+fruitless journey.
+
+
+_Tuesday._--Found my letters per _Acadia_: they gave me much domestic
+gratification. Two I had from my wife, and one from Bow Churchyard.
+These were in answer to my first despatches. I dined and spent a quiet
+evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce and Mr. Flanden, and retired to bed
+early.
+
+
+_Wednesday._--A great Clay and Frelinghuysen day. A grand procession of
+the Whigs of many thousands. Mr. Pearce and I visited the Creton
+Aqueduct for supplying New York with water. It is 1826 feet long, and
+836 feet wide, and covers 35 acres. It comes down a tunnel of 35 miles,
+part of which distance is an aqueduct. We walked to the East River and
+Astoria, and returned to meet Mr. Blane, Mr. Brough, Mr. C. Vyse, and
+Mr. Palin, whom I had asked to dine with me at five. We had one of Mr.
+Blankard's best dinners, and spent a pleasant evening: were joined by
+Dr. Keen and Mr. Green. Brough sang us three excellent songs. They left
+at ten; and I to bed.
+
+
+_Thursday._--I finally finished my mission with Mr. Pearce most
+satisfactorily. Visited Mr. Bach, distiller, Brooklyn--my first time
+there. Dined with C. Vyse, at Dalmonico's. Met Mr. Blane, Palin, and
+Bund. A most sumptuous dinner: would cost at least 50 dollars. Left at
+nine, and spent my last evening at New York with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce.
+Paid my bill at the Globe, 49 dollars, 75 cents for the week; and to
+bed. Could not sleep: a restless, disagreeable night.
+
+
+_Friday._--Started at eight per Long Island Rail-way to Boston,
+Brooklyn, and Greenport, ninety-five miles; per rail thence to
+Stonington, thirty-two miles; per steamer in the Bay Sounds thence to
+Providence--a town of 15,000 inhabitants, where H.W. Doe is confined;
+and to Boston, forty-four miles: in all 218 in ten hours--the quickest
+travelling I have had; and proceeded to the Tremont-house. Read the
+English papers; and saw the account of my old friend T. Sidney being
+made sheriff and alderman in the same week, with the likelihood of his
+being Sir Thomas before I return. "Some men are born great, and others
+have greatness thrust upon them."
+
+Population of Boston, 50,000.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning.--I visited the Custom-house, by previous
+arrangement, to clear some pattern-cards. I could not help being
+strongly impressed with the contrast their Custom-house presented, when
+compared with some I could mention, and the attention, politeness, and
+good-humour with which its officers discharged their duties. They saw
+the force of my arguments at once, and let me have the books free of
+duty; and at their particular request I promised the Custom-house
+examiners one. They offered me any amount of money for it, which I
+declined to take. They are building a new Custom-house upon a large
+scale. The air here is very piercing--easterly winds prevail a great
+deal. The houses are bright, and have a gay appearance, the signboards
+are painted in such gaudy colours; the gilded letters are so very
+golden; the bricks so very red; the blinds and area-railings so very
+green; the plates upon the street-doors so marvellously bright and
+twinkling--and all so slight and unsubstantial in appearance. The
+suburbs are, if possible, more unsubstantial-looking than the city. The
+city is a beautiful one, and cannot fail to impress all strangers very
+favourably. The State-house is built upon the summit of a hill, which
+rises gradually by a steep ascent almost from the water's edge--a fine
+building, where all government operations are carried on, as at Albany,
+and elsewhere in the different states. From the top there is a charming
+panoramic view of the whole town and neighbourhood. In front is a green
+inclosure called the Common, a great benefit to the town. The docks are
+not very good: a great many ships lay over at East Boston. The Exchange
+is a very fine building, where the merchants congregate; but in fair
+weather a great deal of business is done in the streets. I wrote about
+thirty circulars to St. John's and Halifax, instead of going myself; and
+retired to rest at eleven.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning, October 27th.--Attended the Trinity church, and heard
+a most impressive sermon by Bishop Eastburn, Ephesians iv. 17: "This I
+say therefore, and testify in the Lord, that ye henceforth walk not as
+other Gentiles walk, in the vanity of their minds." A wet, nasty day;
+read the Bible till dinner-time; thence to St. Paul's church to hear Dr.
+Vinton: he spoke so Yankee-like, I could not understand him at the
+distance I was. Very handsome churches they have here. Took a long walk
+all round the city; admired the neat houses they are building in all
+directions; and felt that the State of Massachusetts stood the highest
+in my estimation of any of the states I had yet visited. Spent the
+evening with Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester--the most
+decided man of business I had met with for many a long day. It had been
+previously arranged that he should carry our patterns through all the
+states and Canada.
+
+
+_Monday_ morning.--Took a regular turn through amongst the importers of
+lace, and was thunderstruck at the enormous quantity of
+highly-respectable importers, certainly far exceeding New York and
+Philadelphia. They are first-rate business men: _no auctions_, which I
+detest: no overstocks, which will be the ruin of New York; well
+assorted, and in good condition. In fact, I felt as if I had been in an
+English town, for the men of business are more like English than
+Americans. They nearly all import--at least thirty first-rate men
+import--our goods. I experienced a great deal of civility from Mr. W.
+Appleton, and Mr. Ward, Barings' agent; and altogether was much pleased
+with my reception. Had not Mr. Schofield undertaken to receive our
+orders, I could have done a very large trade. I may here observe, the
+Tremont is one of the best houses in the states in every respect.
+Buckwheat cakes to breakfast; and they use the incredibly large quantity
+of 45 tons of butter per year.
+
+
+_Tuesday_ morning, the 29th.--A regular wet day; rained incessantly.
+Called upon all the lace-importers, and found them thorough men of
+business--very prompt: came to an understanding with nearly all that
+they would order through Mr. Schofield, of Henry and Co.'s, Manchester.
+
+
+_Wednesday_ morning.--Received my despatches per _Great Western_, and
+proceeded to Lowell per rail. I forget whether I described an American
+railroad before. There are no first and second class carriages, as with
+us, but gentlemen's cars and ladies' cars; and, as a black man never
+travels with a white one, there is a negro car. Each car holds from
+thirty to fifty. There is a stove blazing hot. Except where a
+branch-road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of
+rails. They rush across the turnpike-road, where there is no gate, no
+policeman, no signal. There is painted up, "When the bell rings, look
+out for the locomotive." I was met at Lowell by my fellow-passenger in
+the _Western_, Royal Southwick, intimately connected with the factories
+there. The first we visited was a cotton cloth and drill factory, where
+they make about 50,000 yards per day, all by water-power (the
+Merrimack), and have a couple of hundred girls employed. The good order
+and clean appearance of both factory and girls contrasted greatly with
+both in Lancashire. There are twenty-five mills here. We then visited a
+carpet manufactory, by machinery that reduces labour 75 per cent., and
+where some of the many girls employed make a dollar a-day. There is no
+manufactory like this in the world: there is a patent taken out by E.B.
+Bigelow to protect the carpet power-loom manufactory. They must be
+making money fast here. We then visited a cloth manufactory upon a large
+scale, where they employ about 800 hands; and the excellency of the
+cloth surprized me. They will have no occasion for English cloths much
+longer. All by water-power. The last place was a large cylinder
+print-works, where they produce some first-rate goods, and, I think, as
+cheap as ours. There are several factories in Lowell, each of which they
+call a corporation, as they are chartered. They employ about 8000 girls,
+who make 3-1/2 dollars per week, or 14 s. Their neat, clean, and healthy
+appearance pleased me much: they are well dressed; and, meeting them
+out, you would take them to be of a higher grade. They pay 1-1/2 dollar
+per week for lodgings, which are situated near, and belong to the
+different corporations. They are strictly moral and virtuous, and all
+contribute to a monthly publication called "The Lowell Offering," well
+worth reading. I saw the principal editors (young ladies), and ordered
+it for next year. The rooms in which they work are well arranged; and
+green plants are trained to shade the glass windows. The laws of the
+state forbid their working more than nine months in the year, and
+require that they shall be educated during the other three. There is a
+hospital or boarding-house for the sick, at 3 dollars per week: they do
+not often require its assistance, for in 1841 they had 100,000 dollars
+in the savings-bank. We visited the Mechanics' Reading-room--a large
+building, with papers from all parts.
+
+The population of Lowell is 25,000; one of the most rising towns in the
+states. There are also Fall River, Taunton, Manchester, Great Falls,
+Dover, New Hampshire--all rising manufacturing places. In New England
+state there is no coal, which is a great drawback. I returned to Boston,
+and spent the evening with some friends.
+
+
+_Thursday._--Mr. Hanson drove me to Cambridge, to see the Universities.
+This is a clean, well-built town, with 8000 or 9000 inhabitants. The
+expense of education is 300 dollars; and if that cannot be paid, the
+students are educated free, subject to instructing others a little.
+There is no barrier here to the poorest man's son becoming the
+President, as free-schools abound. We then drove to Mount Auburn, a
+cemetery delightfully situated about five miles from Boston. They pay
+4000 dollars for a lot for a family burying-place. Here some eminent men
+are interred. There are some beautiful walks over this one-hundred-acres
+plot of ground. We then drove round by Charlestown, a place of 10,000
+inhabitants, where the Bostonians reside, well-situated; and so on to
+Bunker-hill Monument, where the battle was fought in 1775, when General
+James Warren fell: it is a very substantial mark of Jonathan conquering
+John. Bull. I then visited the Massachusetts State-house: the
+Congress-house and Representatives are very commodious. I ascended the
+top, which gives a most commanding view of the whole city: it was very
+clear, and the view was most extensive. Like New York, it is upon an
+island, surrounded (except a few yards) with the River Charles and the
+Ocean. Home to dinner, and gave my friends T. Cochrane and Mr. Schofield
+two bottles of champagne, it being my last day in the States. We then
+proceeded to Perkins's Institution for the Blind, managed by my
+fellow-passenger, Dr. Howe. We saw the gifted Laura Bridgman, whose
+biography I give elsewhere.[A] She is an interesting-looking girl,
+fifteen years old, deaf, dumb, blind, and no smell: still Providence
+makes her contented and happy: she can read and write, and understand
+geography with her fingers, and is blessed with the knowledge of Divine
+grace. It was truly interesting and gratifying to see the blind girls
+read and write and work, all so clean and neat in their persons, and
+apparently happy. Also the boys are instructed in a similar way, and,
+when ready, put out to some trade; and, if no master can be found, they
+instruct them in the institution to make mattresses, chair-bottoms, &c.,
+several of whom I saw working. We then visited South Boston State
+Hospital for the Insane, at the head of which is Dr. Stedman, who
+conducts it admirably on the enlightened principles of conciliation and
+kindness, and evinces a confidence and apparent trust even in mad
+people. Each ward in this institution is shaped like a long gallery or
+hall; and, as we walked along, the patients flocked round us
+unrestrained, with all sorts of stories. I had ten minutes' talk with an
+elderly lady, who had a great many scraps of finery, of gauze, &c.,
+which gave her a strange appearance: she fancied she was the hostess of
+the mansion. Another I talked to said she was Queen of the States.
+Another poor fellow, gentlemanly in appearance, said it was a hard run
+between him and Prince Albert who should have the Queen of England. He
+had written and received several letters from her. I discovered they had
+all some weak point, and the doctor gave me the cue. I felt quite at
+ease amongst them: nearly all are unrestrained; and, strange to say,
+they never talk to each other, or molest each other in any way. We then
+visited the House of Correction for the State, where about three-fourths
+of the expenses are paid by the prisoners' industry. It is a
+well-managed prison, with strict discipline: no conversation allowed,
+and all kept at work, both men and women: the latter are very bad to
+manage. Comfort and cleanliness are very apparent. We then visited the
+Orphan Asylum and House of Reformation for young offenders, and for
+neglected and indigent boys who have committed no crimes, but perhaps
+soon would if they were not taken from the hungry streets and sent
+here: this is called the Boylston School. There is the House of
+Industry for old, helpless paupers: these words are painted on the
+walls--"Self-government, quietude, and peace are blessings." This was a
+clean, neat place, with a plant or two on the window-sill, a row of
+crockery upon the shelf, or small display of coloured prints upon the
+whitewashed wall. We have no such sights in our unions.
+
+[Footnote A: See Appendix.]
+
+I left South Boston much gratified with all I had seen; but pleasure
+must have an alloy. My companion drove up against a cart in the dark,
+broke both shafts, the horse kicked the vehicle all to pieces, and how
+we escaped is wonderful. I got my knee bruised, and that was all. I
+retired to rest, grateful to Providence for my narrow escape.
+
+
+_Friday, and last day in America._--Saw the famed Dr. Channing's
+Unitarian chapel; and witnessed such a demonstration the previous night,
+with at least 10,000 boys, non-electors, parading the streets with
+torches, crying "Clay, of Ashland, near Lexington, Kentucky!" I really
+feel that I am leaving Boston with regret: I never was more pleased with
+any town, both in a business and social point of view. I have many kind
+and intelligent friends that I shall leave with regret. The Bostonians
+are more English in idea, smart to a degree, and well situated for
+commerce. The town and suburbs abound with charitable institutions of
+every description; and every article of living is half the price it is
+in England. I visited Famenil Hall, the oldest building in the town, and
+famed in American history.
+
+In conclusion, my feelings prompt me to acknowledge, with a deep sense
+of gratitude to Messrs. Overend and Gurney, the very sympathetic and
+high-character letter they gave me to Messrs. Prime, Ward, and King, of
+New York, as I had taken the journey to recruit my health. From that
+letter emanated others to every town I visited, which at once placed me
+in communication with the most intelligent of men. I am further bound to
+add, contrary to the general opinion formed in England, that I met with
+the most open, frank, communicative people I ever came in contact with;
+and further I am bound to add, I frequently had occasion to blush for my
+own ignorance, both about Europe and America. To use a vulgar
+expression, they are a wide-awake people. Their cheap publications,
+their thirst for knowledge, and their naturally quick perceptions, place
+them above the level in society. That America must rise, and become a
+great country, is my earnest wish and belief. I do not like to
+individualize, but I feel an inward gratitude to many kind and dear
+friends whom T made in my short sojourn, whose study it was to make me
+happy, and my journey a pleasing one.
+
+At one o'clock I paid my bill, and proceeded to East Boston, on board
+the _Acadia_; and set sail exactly at two o'clock, P.M., for England,
+with 25 passengers.
+
+On leaving the harbour, on the right, we passed several small islands,
+and the Liverpool light and Dorchester heights, where the Orphan Asylum
+is situated on a lofty eminence. On the left we passed Lynn and Salem,
+and steamed it along in good style during the night.
+
+
+_Saturday_ morning, the _2nd November_.--Spoke the _Hibernia_ at eight
+o'clock, A.M.: about 130 passengers, all on deck, with whom we exchanged
+cheers as she passed. I was struck with the warlike appearance she had:
+whether it has been contemplated or not, I discovered that all these
+mailsteamers are admirably adapted for war: all they require are
+port-holes for cannon. They are made to Admiralty order, and cost
+L60,000 each. At six P.M. we passed the Devil's Limb, a rock close by
+Seal Island, where the _Colombia_ was lost. The coast is dangerous
+between Boston and Halifax. The captain was up both nights.
+
+
+_Sunday_ morning, at seven.--I was aroused by the discharge of a brace
+of cannon, and on coming on deck I found we were in Halifax harbour.
+Population of this place is 20,000. Governed by Lord Falkland. Nova
+Scotia is about 300 miles in circumference. Staple of the town, fish: I
+should have thought dogs, for I saw some hundreds. It is a mean-looking
+town: nearly all wood houses: a very good fort and government-house. St.
+John's, New Brunswick, is 250 miles from here: population, 35,000:
+governed by Sir W. Colebrooke: staple, timber and deals, and
+whale-fishing. I intended visiting St. John's, but had not time. It was
+fortunate, as I should have been left behind. Owing to some breakdown,
+the mail did not arrive in Halifax in time for us: neither did the
+Quebec mail, by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from Quebec, _via_ Picton, 120
+miles from Halifax, arrive; and, because Captain Harrison would not wait
+for these mails, the Governor would not allow him the Halifax: so we
+started at half-past ten, leaving them all behind. At Halifax I made the
+acquaintance of Mr. Howe, late of the Executive Council, and Collector
+of Excise, which he resigned: salary, L700 a year. He is now editor of
+the Nova Scotia newspaper. I shall not forget his politeness, although
+he is a red-hot Radical. They send whalers from Halifax to the South
+Seas. Opposite Halifax is Dartmouth, a town of 15,000 inhabitants,
+whence they send plaster and rum to the States. We passed St. George's
+Island, a battery, and the Thumb Cap, where the _Tribune_ was lost. We
+also passed the Curzon and Devil's Island Beacon, and were much
+gratified by passing a fleet of men-of-war, the largest of which, the
+_Illustrious_, 74 guns, 700 hands, was in full sail, with a band of
+music playing and singing "_Home, sweet home_," which went to my very
+soul. They were bound for Bermuda, West India Islands. Their Admiral,
+Sir C. Adam, was on board, with sixteen officers. At five P.M. we were
+out of sight of land, steaming it along at ten knots.
+
+
+
+PASSAGE HOME PER ACADIA.
+
+
+Nov. 1st.--Light westerly winds, with fine clear weather. All sails set.
+
+Lat. 42 deg. 57'; Long. 66 deg. 57' 87".
+
+
+2nd.--Westerly winds, steady, with clear weather, and smooth water.
+Passed the _Hibernia_ at eight A.M., from Liverpool, bound to Boston. At
+four saw Seal Island, bearing north: distance about seven miles. At
+daylight made Halifax harbour.
+
+Lat. 42 deg. 20'; Long. 71 deg. 4'.
+
+
+3rd.--At seven landed the mails. At eleven cast off from the wharf, and
+proceeded to sea. Light winds, westerly, with smooth water. All sails
+set.
+
+394 miles. Lat. 44 deg. 39-1/2'; Long. 62 deg. 33-3/4'.
+
+
+4th.--Winds from S.W. to N.W., light, with hazy weather, and small rain.
+
+231 miles. Lat. 45 deg. 17'; Long. 58 deg. 0'.
+
+
+5th.--Wind N.E., light, with fine clear weather, and smooth water. At
+eleven Cape Race, 10 miles distance, bearing to the east. At four
+exchanged signals with the brig _Mary and Martha_. Wind standing to the
+southward.
+
+241 miles. Lat. 46 deg. 30'; Long. 52 deg. 47'.
+
+
+6th.--Strong easterly gales, with dark cloudy weather, and a heavy sea
+running.
+
+202 miles. Lat. 47 deg. 10'; Long. 47 deg. 56'.
+
+
+7th.--Moderate breeze, and clear weather: wind easterly, with a head
+sea.
+
+178 miles. Lat. 48 deg. 12'; Long. 44 deg. 17'.
+
+
+8th.--Strong S.E. gales: dark gloomy weather, and heavy N.E. swell.
+
+214 miles. Lat. 49 deg. 0'; Long. 39 deg. 0'.
+
+
+9th.--Winds strong N.E. breezes, with drizzly rains: dark cloudy
+weather: heavy northerly swell running.
+
+238 miles. Lat. 50 deg. 19'; Long. 33 deg. 12'.
+
+
+10th, _Sunday_.--Light baffling winds, and clear weather, with a heavy
+northerly swell or sea. Performed Divine service at eleven A.M. This
+put me in mind of the pilot's song--
+
+    "Fear not, but trust in Providence,
+      Wherever you may be."
+
+256 miles. Lat. 50 deg. 31'; Long. 26 deg. 30'.
+
+
+11th.--Strong southerly winds, with dark hazy weather, and a heavy sea
+running. Saw a vessel in distress. Hove-to, and found she was the _John
+and Mary_ of Dublin, a perfect wreck, and deserted, the sea running over
+her, and for some minutes out of sight, except the masts.
+
+244 miles. Lat. 50 deg. 30'; Long. 20 deg. 10'.
+
+
+12th.--Strong breezes from the west: dark cloudy weather and rain, and
+heavy sea running.
+
+280 miles. Lat. 50 deg. 54'; Long. 12 deg. 44'.
+
+
+13th.--Strong breezes: thick hazy weather, with rain. At six A.M. made
+the land (Irish). Kinsale Light bearing North: distance, 10 miles. Noon,
+fine clear weather, with heavy southerly swell. Waterford Harbour Light
+bearing north: distance, 12 miles. At four P.M. spoke the _Alexander
+Grant_, from Quebec. Passed the _Coningsby_ light-ship and Saltee
+Islands. Thence Cansore Point, county of Wexford, and Holyhead at
+eleven.
+
+243 miles.
+
+
+14th.--At seven A.M. arrived in Liverpool, and made the town echo with
+our cannon.
+
+180 miles.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDICES.
+
+
+I.
+
+BIOGRAPHY OF LAURA BRIDGMAN.
+
+
+She was born in Hanover, New Hampshire, on the 21st December, 1829. She
+is described as having been a very spritely and pretty infant, with
+bright blue eyes. She was, however, so puny and feeble until she was a
+year and a half old, that her parents hardly hoped to rear her. She was
+subject to severe fits, which seemed to rack her frame almost beyond her
+power of endurance, and life was held by the feeblest tenure; but when a
+year and a half old she seemed to rally, the dangerous symptoms
+subsided, and at twenty months old she was perfectly well. Then her
+mental powers, hitherto stinted in their growth, rapidly developed
+themselves; and during the four months of health which she enjoyed she
+appears (making due allowance for a fond mother's account) to have
+displayed a considerable degree of intelligence. But suddenly she
+sickened again: her disease raged with great violence during five weeks,
+when her eyes and ears were inflamed, suppurated, and their contents
+were discharged. But, though sight and hearing were gone for ever, the
+poor child's sufferings were not ended. The fever raged during seven
+weeks: for five months she was kept in bed in a darkened room. It was a
+year before she could walk unsupported, and two years before she could
+sit up all day. It was now observed that her sense of smell was almost
+entirely destroyed, and consequently that her taste was much blunted.
+
+It was not until four years of age that the poor child's bodily health
+seemed restored, and she was able to enter upon her apprenticeship of
+life and the world. But what a situation was hers! The darkness and the
+silence of the tomb were around her;--no mother's smile called forth her
+answering smile; no father's voice taught her to imitate his sounds:
+brothers and sisters were but forms of matter which resisted not her
+touch, but which differed not from the furniture of the house save in
+warmth and in the power of locomotion, and not even in these respects
+from the dog and the cat.
+
+But the immortal spirit which had been implanted within her could not
+die, nor be maimed, nor mutilated; and, though most of its avenues of
+communication with the world were cut off, it began to manifest itself
+through the others. As soon, as she could walk she began to explore the
+room, and then the house. She became familiar with the form, density,
+weight, and heat of every article she could lay her hands upon. She
+followed her mother, and felt her hands and arms as she was occupied
+about the house; and her disposition to imitate led her to do everything
+herself. She even learned to sew a little, and knit. The reader need
+scarcely be told, however, that the opportunities of communicating with
+her were very, very limited, and that the moral effects of her wretched
+state soon began to appear. Those who cannot be enlightened by reason
+can only be controlled by force; and this, coupled with her great
+privations, must soon have reduced her to a worse condition than that of
+the beasts that perish, but for timely and unhoped-for aid. At this time
+I was so fortunate as to hear of the child, and immediately hastened to
+Hanover to see her. I found her with a well-formed figure, a
+strongly-marked, nervous-sanguine temperament, a large and
+beautifully-shaped head, and the whole system in healthy action. The
+parents were easily induced to consent to her coming to Boston; and on
+the 4th October, 1837, they brought her to the Institution. For a while
+she was much bewildered; and after waiting about two weeks, until she
+became acquainted with her new locality and somewhat familiar with the
+inmates, the attempt was made to give her knowledge of arbitrary signs,
+by which she could interchange thoughts with others. There was one of
+two ways to be adopted--either to go on to build up a language of signs
+on the basis of the natural language which she had already commenced
+herself, or to teach her the purely arbitrary language in common use:
+that is, to give her a sign for every individual thing, or to give her a
+knowledge of letters, by combination of which she might express her idea
+of the existence, and the mode and condition of existence, of anything.
+The former would have been easy, but very ineffectual: the latter seemed
+very difficult, but, if accomplished, very effectual. I determined,
+therefore, to try the latter.
+
+The first experiments were made by taking articles in common use, such
+as knives, forks, spoons, keys, &c., and pasting upon them labels with
+their names printed in raised letters. These she felt very carefully,
+and soon, of course, distinguished that the crooked lines _spoon_
+differed as much from the crooked lines _key_ as the spoon differed from
+the key in form. Then small detached labels, with the same words printed
+upon them, were put into her hands, and she soon observed that they were
+similar to the ones pasted on the articles. She showed her perception
+of this similarity by laying the label _key_ upon the key, and the label
+_spoon_ upon the spoon. She was encouraged here by the natural sign of
+approbation--patting on the head. The same process was then repeated
+with all the articles she could handle, and she very easily learned to
+place the proper labels upon them. It was evident, however, that the
+only intellectual exercise was that of imitation and memory. She
+recollected that the label _book_ was placed upon a book; and she
+repeated the process first from imitation, next from memory, with only
+the motive of love of approbation, but apparently without the
+intellectual perception of any relation between the things. After a
+while, instead of labels, the individual letters were given to her on
+detached bits of paper: they were arranged, side by side so as to spell
+_book, key_, &c.; then they were mixed up in a heap, and a sign was made
+for her to arrange them herself, so as to express the words _book, key_,
+&c., and she did so. Hitherto the process had been mechanical, and the
+success about as great as teaching a very knowing dog a variety of
+tricks. The poor child had sat in mute amazement, and patiently imitated
+everything her teacher did; but now the truth began to flash upon
+her--her intellect began to work. She perceived that here was a way by
+which she could herself make up a sign of anything that was in her own
+mind, and show it to another mind; and at once her countenance lighted
+up with a human expression: it was no longer a dog or parrot: it was an
+immortal spirit eagerly seizing upon a new link of union with other
+spirits! I could almost fix upon the moment when this truth dawned upon
+her mind. I saw that the great obstacle was overcome, and that
+henceforward nothing but plain and straightforward efforts were to be
+used. The next step was to procure a set of metal types, with the
+different letters of the alphabet cast upon their ends: also a board in
+which were square holes, into which holes she could set the types, so
+that the letters on their ends could alone be felt above the surface.
+She was exercised for several weeks in this way; and then the important
+step was taken of teaching her how to represent the different letters by
+the position of her fingers, instead of the cumbrous apparatus of the
+board and types. This was the period, about three months after she had
+commenced, that the first report of her case was made, in which it is
+stated "that she has just learned the manual alphabet as used by the
+deaf mutes; and it is a subject of delight and wonder to see how
+rapidly, correctly, and eagerly she goes on her with labours." At the
+end of the year a second report of her case was made, from which the
+following is an extract:--"It has been ascertained, beyond the
+possibility of doubt, that she cannot see a ray of light--cannot hear
+the least sound--and never exercises her sense of smell, if she have
+any. Of beautiful sights, and sweet sounds, and pleasant odours she has
+no conception: nevertheless, she seems as happy and as playful as a bird
+or a lamb; and the employment of her intellectual faculties, or the
+acquirement of a new idea, gives her a vivid pleasure, which is plainly
+marked in her expressive features."
+
+She chooses for her friends and companions those children who are
+intelligent, and can talk best with her; and she evidently dislikes to
+be with those who are deficient in intellect, unless, indeed, she can
+make them serve her purposes, which she is evidently inclined to do. She
+takes advantage of them, and makes them wait upon her in a manner which
+she knows she could not exact from others; and in various ways she shows
+her Saxon blood.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Such are a few fragments from the simple, but most interesting and
+instructive, history of Laura Bridgman. The name of her great benefactor
+and friend who writes it is Dr. Howe. There are not many persons, I hope
+and believe, who, after reading these passages, can ever hear that name
+with indifference.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+MEMORANDA.
+
+
+Indian corn--58 lbs. to the bushel: price, 49 c.
+
+
+Columbus discovered America in 1492.
+
+
+Mr. Rathbourn projected the City of the Falls, and built Buffalo; and
+was confined afterwards seven years for forgery.
+
+
+Sir C. Metcalfe, Governor of Canada.
+Lord Falkland,      "   "   Nova Scotia.
+Sir W. Colebrooke,  "   "   New Brunswick.
+Sir John Harvey,    "   "   Newfoundland.
+Captain Fitzroy,    "   "   Prince Edward Isld.
+
+
+_Latitude_ is North and South: _Longitude_ East and West.
+
+
+A _Geographical Mile_ is one-seventh more than a statute mile.
+
+
+A _Knot_ is a geographical mile.
+
+
+Price of Negroes, 8 dollars to 1200 dollars.
+         Females, 4 dollars to 600 dollars.
+
+
+Negroes--Mulattoes--Quadroon--Creole--European--Georgian (Asia).
+
+
+Tobacco is grown at--
+  New Orleans.
+  Petersburg }
+  Richmond   }  Virginia.
+  Maryland and Kentucky.
+
+
+Lower and Upper Canada were united three years ago into one province.
+There are also St. John's, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island,
+Newfoundland, and Nova Scotia.
+
+
+In Lower Canada eight-tenths are French, and in Upper Canada about
+equal.
+
+
+500 bales of cotton are said to be used in New York yearly for ladies'
+fronts and bustles.
+
+
+Soldiers in the States enlist for five years only.
+
+
+G.M. weighed to-day, October 9, 149 lbs., or 10 st. 9 lbs.
+
+
+Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and Superior contain half the fresh water in
+the world.
+
+
+Taxes on good land, say 50 dollars per acre, are as follows: State-tax,
+15 cents per acre; county, 15 c.; road, 7 c. to 15 c.; horse, 30 c,.
+cow, 15 c. each; servant-man, 1 d. 50 c.; waggon, 2 d. 50 c.; dog, 50 c.
+If sheep are killed the State pays.
+
+
+Representatives are for four years; get 4 dollars per day: State
+Senators for one year, 6 d.: Representatives to Congress, four years,
+8 d.: Congressional Senators, four years, 12 d.: Governor of a State,
+two years, 5000 d. a year: has power of pardoning criminals, calling
+military out, &c.; Lieut.-Governor, two years, 2500 d. a year: he is
+Chairman of State Senators. Each State has a state attorney, secretary
+of state, treasurer, &c.
+
+
+              DUTIES.
+Barrel of wheat flour into Canada   2 s. for 196 lbs.
+Thence into England                 7-1/2 d. for do.
+
+
+Price of Wheat in the States  3 d. 75 c. per 60 lbs.
+         Barley               3 d. 75 c.      "
+         Oats                 3 d. 75 c.      "
+
+Wheat from Canada pays 3 s. per qr. (stationary).
+
+Price in
+Kingston,                           Price in    Price in
+Upp. Can.                            Canada.      U.S.
+ s. d.                                s. d.       s. d.
+ 3  6     Wheat, 60 lbs. or 32 qts.   3  9        3  0
+ 1  6     Barley, 48 lbs. or 32 qts.  2  4        2  0
+ 0 10-1/2 Oats, 36 lbs. or 32 qts.    1  3        1  0
+          Rye,  56 lbs. or 32 qts.    2  9        2  3
+
+Flour, 196 lbs., 15 s., 18 s. 9 d., 2 1 s. 3 d., Montreal: 17 s.,
+States.
+
+
+A Cord of Wood is eight feet long, four wide, and four high, or 128
+square feet: worth at Brockville, 1 d.; at Montreal, 3 d.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+POPULATION OF THE STATES.
+
+
+                EASTERN STATES.
+
+           _Free, or New England._
+
+                      Number of
+                      Counties.    Population.
+
+Maine                     13         501,793
+New Hampshire              8         284,547
+Vermont                   14         291,948
+Massachusetts             14         737,699
+Rhode Island               5         108,830
+Connecticut                8         309,978
+North, New York           58       2,428,921
+New Jersey                18         373,306
+Pennsylvania              54       1,724,033
+Delaware                   3         780,085
+Michigan                  32         212,267
+
+
+               WESTERN STATES.
+
+Ohio                      79       1,519,467
+Indiana                   87         686,866
+Illinois                  87         476,183
+Missouri                  62         383,702
+
+
+           SOUTHERN SLAVE STATES.
+
+Maryland                  20         469,232
+Virginia                 119       1,239,797
+North Carolina            68         753,419
+South Carolina            29         594,398
+Kentucky (S.W.)           90         779,828
+Tennessee                 72         829,210
+Georgia                   83         691,392
+Alabama                   79         590,756
+Mississippi               56         375,651
+Louisiana                 39         352,411
+Arkansas                  39          97,574
+               ----------
+District Columbia (Slave)  2          43,712
+Iowa Territory            18          43,112
+Wisconsin Territory       22          30,945
+Florida Territory (Slave) 20          54,447
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+CERTIFICATE OF NATURALIZATION.
+
+
+"Be it remembered, that at a Nisi Prius, holden by one of the Justices
+of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania, at Philadelphia, in the
+Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, in and for the Eastern District, a Court
+of Record, on the tenth day of October, in the year of Our Lord One
+thousand eight hundred and forty-two, Edwin Williams, a native of
+England, exhibited a petition, praying to be admitted to become a
+Citizen of the United States; and it appearing to the said Court that he
+had declared on oath, before the Prothonotary of the Supreme Court of
+Pennsylvania for the Eastern District, on this day, that it was _bona
+fide_ his intention to become a Citizen of the United States, and to
+renounce for ever all allegiance and fidelity to any foreign prince,
+potentate, state, or sovereignty whatsoever, and particularly to the
+Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, of whom he was
+at that time a subject; and the said Edwin. Williams having on his
+solemn oath declared, and also made proof thereof according to law, to
+the satisfaction of the Court, that he had resided within the limits and
+under the jurisdiction of the United States of America three years next
+preceding his arriving at the age of twenty-one years, and continued to
+reside therein to the time of making his application; that, including
+the three years of his minority, he had resided one year and upwards,
+last past, within the State of Pennsylvania, and within the limits and
+under the jurisdiction of the United States five years and upwards; and
+that during the three years next preceding it had been _bona fide_ his
+intention to become a Citizen of the United States, and that during that
+time he had behaved as a man of good moral character, attached to the
+principles of the Constitution of the United States, and well disposed
+to the good order and happiness of the same; and having declared on his
+solemn oath, before the said Court, that he would support the
+Constitution of the United States, and that he did absolutely and
+entirely renounce and abjure all allegiance and fidelity to every
+foreign prince, potentate, state, and sovereignty whatsoever, and
+particularly to the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
+Ireland, of whom he was before a subject; and having in all respects
+complied with the laws in regard to Naturalization, thereupon the Court
+admitted the said Edwin Williams to become a Citizen of the United
+States, and ordered all the proceedings aforesaid to be recorded by the
+Prothonotary of the said Court, which was done accordingly.
+
+"In witness whereof I have hereunto affixed the seal of the said Court
+at Philadelphia, this tenth day of October, in the year One thousand
+eight hundred and forty-two, and of the Sovereignty and Independence of
+the United States of America the sixty-seventh.
+
+"J. SIMON COHEN, _Prothonotary_."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Palmer and Clayton. Crane-court, Fleet-street.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of a Voyage across the Atlantic
+by George Moore
+
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