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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:41:16 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:41:16 -0700
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs, by J. M. W. Silver</title>
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13051 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs, by
+J. M. W. Silver</h1>
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr class="full" />
+<br />
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image012.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i12"
+ id="i12"><img width="400"
+ src="images/image012.jpg"
+ alt="Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs" /></a>
+ </div><br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+
+
+ <h1>SKETCHES</h1>
+
+ <h5>OF</h5>
+
+ <h1>JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</h1>
+
+ <h5>BY</h5>
+
+ <h3>J.M.W. SILVER,</h3>
+
+ <h4>LIEUTENANT ROYAL MARINES, LIGHT INFANTRY.</h4>
+
+ <h5>(LATE OF THE ROYAL MARINE BATTALION FOR SERVICE IN
+ JAPAN)</h5><br />
+ <br />
+
+ <h4>Illustrated by Native Drawings,</h4>
+
+ <h5>REPRODUCED IN FAC-SIMILE BY MEANS OF
+ CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHY.</h5><br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+
+ <h3>LONDON:</h3>
+
+ <h4>1867</h4>
+
+ <br />
+ <hr class="short" />
+
+ <h4>TO</h4>
+
+ <h3>COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX,</h3>
+
+ <h4>BART.</h4>
+ <hr class="short" />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+
+ <p>DEAR SIR EDMUND,</p>
+
+ <p>These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs' were
+ collected during the years 1864-5, at which time I was attached
+ to the Battalion of Royal Marines for service in Japan, and it
+ is now very pleasing to have the privilege of dedicating them
+ to one who was the friend and companion-in-arms of my late
+ Father.</p>
+
+ <p>In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful
+ acknowledgment of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this
+ Dedication of my humble efforts to assist in the elucidation of
+ the social condition of a distant and comparatively unknown
+ race, affords me deep gratification.</p>
+
+ <div class="poem"
+ style="margin-left:40%">
+ <div class="stanza">
+ <p>With much respect and esteem, I am,</p>
+
+ <p class="i6">Dear Sir Edmund,</p>
+
+ <p class="i8">Very faithfully yours,</p>
+
+ <p class="i10">J.M.W. SILVER.</p>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+
+ <p><i>Royal Marine Barracks, Forton,<br />
+ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;January 29th,
+ 1867.</i></p>
+ <hr />
+
+ <h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+ <ol>
+ <li><a href="#page1">FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page6">FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page10">DOMESTIC LIFE</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page14">THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND
+ ARISTOCRACY</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page20">THE COURT OF THE MIKADO</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page24">THE 'HARA KIRU'</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page29">NATIONAL GAMES AND
+ AMUSEMENTS</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page34">CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page39">SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS
+ OBSERVANCES</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page43">ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE
+ TEA-HOUSES</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page46">THE SPY SYSTEM&mdash;THE
+ BATH-HOUSE</a></li>
+
+ <li><a href="#page49">LOVE OF FLOWERS</a></li>
+ </ol><br />
+ <br />
+
+
+ <h2>LIST OF PLATES.</h2>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i12">TITLE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i53">FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF
+ THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i54">MERCHANTS' GREAT
+ FESTIVAL.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i2">OTINTA LAMA.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i4">A FIRE-BRIGADE ON ITS
+ WAY TO A FIRE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i6">A JAPANESE
+ WEDDING.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i9">A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE
+ VISIT.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i13">A DAIMIO AND FAMILY
+ WITNESSING FIREWORKS.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i15">A MINISTER OF THE
+ MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i17">THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE
+ IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i18">LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S
+ COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i20">THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS
+ READING THE SENTENCE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i21">THE SACRIFICE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i22">A DAIMIO'S
+ FUNERAL.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i24">CREMATION OF THE
+ BODY.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i25">RELATIVES COLLECTING
+ ASHES.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i26">PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE
+ GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i28">INTERIOR OF A
+ THEATRE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i30">MODE OF CONDUCTING A
+ CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i31">LONINS, OR OUTLAWS,
+ ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i32">EXPOSURE FOR
+ INFIDELITY.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i35">SELLING INDULGENCES BY
+ PUBLIC AUCTION.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i36">PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF
+ PURGATORY.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i38">SUDANGEE, OR LAST
+ OFFICES.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i41">A BAKER'S SHOP.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i42">A TEA-HOUSE
+ MERRY-MAKING.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i44">UYA, OR
+ BATH-HOUSE.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i47">A FLOWER SHOW.</a></p>
+
+ <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i1">BOOK
+ COVER.</a></p><br />
+ <br />
+ <hr />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+
+
+ <div class="figleft">
+ <a href="images/image053.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i53"
+ id="i53"><img width="306"
+ border="none"
+ src="images/image053S.jpg"
+ alt="FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN." />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <div class="figright">
+ <a href="images/image054.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i54"
+ id="i54"><img width="315"
+ border="none"
+ src="images/image054S.jpg"
+ alt="MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL." /></a>
+
+ <p>MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL</p>
+ </div><br clear="all" />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <br />
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page1"
+ id="page1"></a>[pg 1]</span>
+
+ <h1>JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</h1>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+ <h3>FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS.</h3>
+
+ <p>The first feature of Japanese life that prominently presents
+ itself to the notice of the stranger, is the number of
+ festivals and holidays held in honour of the various deities,
+ warriors, and sages, or in accordance with some ancient custom
+ of the county, which is as paramount an authority as the most
+ stringent of its laws. Of these festivals, the 'Oki-don-tako,'
+ or 'Great Holiday,' which takes place about Christmas, and
+ lasts a fortnight, is the most important. Previous to its
+ celebration, it is customary with the people to settle
+ accounts, and amicably adjust any quarrels or estrangements
+ that may happen to exist; and they evince the same spirit that
+ actuates Christian nations at this season, by a general
+ interchange of presents and complimentary visits with their
+ friends and acquaintance. So anxious are the merchants to take
+ this opportunity of settling with their creditors, that, when
+ the dealers have deficiencies to make up, articles are
+ frequently pressed on foreign residents at the Treaty Ports at
+ prices previously refused.</p>
+
+ <p>The 'Gogata Seku,' the emblems of which form the first
+ subject of illustration, is also a festival of great
+ importance: it takes place about the middle of June, which is
+ the fifth month of the Japanese calendar, from which it derives
+ its designation, and is kept up with more than ordinary spirit
+ during the three days of its continuance. It is held in
+ commemoration <span class="pagenum"><a name="page2"
+ id="page2"></a>[pg 2]</span> of Gongen Sama, the great
+ general to whom the present dynasty owes its existence; and
+ the Japanese date their births from this festival, even if
+ born the day after its last celebration.</p>
+
+ <p>It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge
+ aerial fishes, in imitation of the 'koi,' or 'carp;' large
+ crimson streamers, representations of Gongen Sama crushing a
+ demon; and the heads and tails of crayfish, with which they
+ decorate their dishes and the entrances of their houses. The
+ floating fish flag is hoisted over every house in which a boy
+ has been born during the preceding twelve months, and is
+ emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or 'carp,'
+ which is very plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and
+ rivers, surmounting all obstacles in its way, and rendering
+ itself by its fecundity and edible qualities useful to the
+ whole country, so the child is to make his way through life,
+ boldly fulfilling his destiny, and proving himself a useful and
+ beneficial member of the community. In the same way, the
+ scarlet streamer indicates the birth of a female child, and the
+ domestic nature of her duties. The crayfish are used to remind
+ the people of their humble origin (it being traditionary that
+ the empire originated from a race of poor fishermen), and the
+ consequent necessity of humility, temperance, and frugality, in
+ their different stations in life.<a id="footnotetag1"
+ name="footnotetag1"></a><a href="#footnote1"><sup>1</sup></a></p>
+
+ <p>Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival:
+ he is considered the especial champion of women, for whose
+ protection he instituted several laws and regulations; among
+ others, making it obligatory on them to blacken their teeth on
+ entering into the married state. He is believed to be able to
+ charm away fevers, to alleviate suffering, and to prevent the
+ lives of his <i>prot&eacute;g&eacute;es</i> from being
+ embittered by jealousy. During the celebration of this festival
+ the whole country presents an extraordinary appearance; aerial
+ fishes, streamers, and bamboo decorations,
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page3"
+ id="page3"></a>[pg 3]</span> meet the eye in every
+ direction; and the people in gala costume which is always
+ worn on holidays, greatly enhance the brilliancy of the
+ scene.</p>
+
+ <p>The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but
+ there is little difference in the material, the dress of every
+ class being regulated by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and
+ purples predominate in winter, the lighter and more varied
+ colours being generally confined to materials only adapted for
+ summer use. The ladies have a great partiality for crimson
+ crape, which is generally worn as an under-robe, and peeps
+ daintily out at the bottom of the dress, and at the wide open
+ sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with the girdle,
+ at the back of which it is allowed to droop in full, graceful
+ folds. The men do not affect such bright colours as the women
+ and children, although their robes are often fantastically
+ embroidered with various strange devices, such as shell-fish,
+ frogs, flowers and landscapes, some of which are beautifully
+ worked.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image055.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image055.jpg"
+ alt="Mother and Child.[From Photograph.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Mother and Child.[From Photograph.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The whole populace on these occasions seem determined to
+ enjoy themselves; the air of good-natured contentment, which
+ characterises them at all times, taking a more exuberant tone
+ as they stroll about the streets, visit in family parties, or
+ make excursions to the neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly
+ domestic in their tastes and habits, it is a pleasing sight to
+ watch the family groups. Here a grand-dame is carefully
+ assisted along by her son and daughter-in-law, preceded by
+ chattering grandchildren in the gayest of dresses, tugging at
+ extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of his house,
+ nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admiration
+ of sympathizing friends another infant&mdash;probably one of
+ the unconscious objects of all this rejoicing.</p>
+
+ <p>Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on
+ these <span class="pagenum"><a name="page4"
+ id="page4"></a>[pg 4]</span> festivals and holidays, they
+ rarely become quarrelsome. It is, however, by no means
+ unusual for them to keep in a state of intoxication for
+ days; alleging this, with perfect <i>sang froid</i>, as an
+ excuse for any neglected promise or unfinished job.</p>
+
+ <p>The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is
+ only celebrated in the principal towns, takes place about the
+ middle of July, and may be considered to be an exhibition of
+ the different trades, as the merchants and craftsmen of the
+ country show the choicest specimens of their wares and
+ handicraft in a kind of trades' procession. Like all the rest
+ of their festivals it has a religious signification, the people
+ believing that misfortunes in business are warded off by it.
+ Upwards of five hundred trade trophies figure in one of these
+ processions, the imposing nature of which may be imagined from
+ the gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses depicted in the
+ illustration. The car in the foreground bears the trophy of the
+ wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of the most lucrative in
+ Japan, as the Japanese not only perpetuate their celebrities by
+ wax-work effigies, but the majority of the people, being
+ professors of the Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of
+ the same material, called 'Kamis,' which are supposed to
+ intercede on their behalf with the Supreme Being. And this is
+ in addition to regular wax-work exhibitions, which are very
+ popular, and the sale of toys which are hawked about the
+ country by travelling dealers.</p>
+
+ <div align="center">
+ <a href="images/image002.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i2"
+ id="i2"><img width="318"
+ src="images/image002s.jpg"
+ alt="OTINTA LAMA" /></a>
+ </div>
+
+ <p class="center">OTINTA LAMA</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image056.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image056.jpg"
+ alt="Travelling Merchant [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Travelling Merchant [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The merchants have a general right of <i>entr&eacute;e</i>
+ to all parts of the town on these occasions. In the
+ illustration, the procession is passing through the official
+ quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace forming the subject of
+ the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page5"
+ id="page5"></a>[pg 5]</span> background. They halt from time
+ to time in their progress, which is enlivened by songs
+ descriptive of their various callings, and the beating of
+ huge drums, and blowing of strange discordant instruments.
+ There is a kind of analogy between our industrial
+ exhibitions and these festivals; and, whatever the purpose
+ may be for which they were originated, it is plain that they
+ admirably represent the industry, wealth, and resources of
+ the country.</p>
+
+ <p>'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is laughed at by
+ some, and believed by others to inhabit certain miniature
+ temples, which are crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as
+ that bird is supposed to be his favourite incarnation. On
+ holidays and festivals, his temples are frequently carried
+ about on the shoulders of his votaries, who are generally the
+ most ignorant and superstitious of the people. This is always a
+ subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who crowd round the
+ temples and oppose their progress, and indulge in witticisms at
+ the expense of the divinity and his bearers. This sometimes
+ leads to a disturbance, but only when the parties concerned
+ have been indulging too freely in their favourite saki.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image003.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image003.jpg"
+ alt="Saki-drunk. [Native drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Saki-drunk. [Native drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in
+ times of drought or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case
+ being brought out and exposed to the sun, and in the other
+ sprinkled with water, by way of intimating the immediate
+ necessity for his good
+ offices.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page6"
+ id="page6"></a>[pg 6]</span> <br clear="all" />
+
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+ <h3>FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES</h3>
+
+ <p>Fires are necessarily frequent, as the majority of the
+ houses are constructed of wood; and such dangerous articles as
+ paper-lanterns, small charcoal fire-boxes, and movable open
+ stoves, for household purposes, are in common use. The candles
+ burnt in the paper-lanterns render them extremely dangerous, as
+ they are fixed by a socket inside the lower end of the candle,
+ which fits on a peg in the lantern&mdash;generally very
+ loosely; and as they flare a great deal, very little wind or
+ motion will cause a conflagration. Fires are, mostly
+ attributed, however, to the 'chebache,' or small charcoal
+ fire-box, which is used for smoking purposes. It is placed on a
+ small stand in the middle of the thickly-matted rooms, the
+ smokers sitting round drinking saki, and occasionally filling
+ their small pipes. Their method of smoking, like all the rest
+ of their habits, is remarkably peculiar; for, after inhaling a
+ few whiffs, the smoker invariably knocks out the half-consumed
+ remnant on the 'chebache,' and, presently refilling, commences
+ another pipe, and so on, two or three times in succession,
+ rarely troubling himself about the ashes of the last, which the
+ slightest current of air may carry unperceived to smoulder in
+ the combustible flooring.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image004.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i4"
+ id="i4"><img width="318"
+ src="images/image004s.jpg"
+ alt="A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE" /></a>
+
+ <p>A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Fires occur frequently, notwithstanding the great
+ precautions which are taken for their prevention. Town and
+ country are divided into districts, for which certain of the
+ inhabitants are responsible. Each of these has its alarum, with
+ observatory and regular watchers; while every
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page7"
+ id="page7"></a>[pg 7]</span> guard-house is provided with a
+ supply of ladders, buckets, and other necessary implements.
+ Whenever a gale is coming on, the 'Yoshongyee and Kanabo,'
+ or 'watch and fire look-outs,' who on ordinary occasions
+ only go their rounds by night, parade the towns with rattles
+ and clanking iron instruments, as a warning to the people to
+ keep their fires low.</p>
+
+ <p>They have numerous fire-brigades, which are well organized,
+ and remarkably efficient. In the illustration one of them is
+ seen hurrying along the street to the place of action. On the
+ right, a watchman is striking an alarum, and another may be
+ noticed, half-way up an observatory in the distance, pointing
+ out the direction of the fire. The white building on the other
+ side of the street is a fire-proof storehouse, in which the
+ public documents and valuables of the district are deposited
+ whenever a fire breaks out in it.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:30%">
+ <a href="images/image005.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image005.jpg"
+ alt="Yoshongyee and Kanabo. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Yoshongyee and Kanabo. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>A Japanese 'Shecase,' or fire-brigade, passing silently
+ along the streets, lighted by its weird red-and-black
+ distinguishing lanterns, is a strange sight. Some of its
+ members wear armour, with helmets and black-lacquered iron
+ visors, and carry 'martoe,' or 'fire-charms,' and various
+ necessary implements; others are clad in head-and-shoulder
+ pieces and gauntlets of light chain-armour, to protect them
+ while pulling down and unroofing houses, which is their
+ especial duty. All have a regular fire costume, from the 'Oki
+ Yaconin,' or 'head man,' to the bare-legged coolie, who carries
+ the badge of the brigade in large red characters on his back.
+ On arriving at a fire, a <i>point de t&ecirc;te</i> is
+ selected&mdash;generally a house, on the roof of which the
+ fire-charms are immediately fixed, as if to forbid its further
+ advance. These charms (the circular white objects with black
+ mouldings) have, of course, as little effect on one element as
+ Canute's <span class="pagenum"><a name="page8"
+ id="page8"></a>[pg 8]</span> celebrated command had on
+ another; but the people put such faith in their virtue that
+ their presence is a powerful auxiliary in prescribing the
+ limits of fires, which are rarely allowed to pass the bounds
+ marked out by them. The firemen fight with the flames as
+ they close on the charms, like men determined to stand by
+ their colours to the last, rushing into the burning houses,
+ pulling them down, and drenching the blazing thatch, with
+ great courage and endurance. When, by thus putting their
+ shoulder to the wheel, the fire is fairly subdued, they turn
+ round and point exultingly to the martoe as the Hercules
+ that has procured the result. On one occasion, at a fire in
+ the village of Omura, adjoining Yokahama, the charms and
+ their supporters were actually licked by the flames from the
+ house opposite to that on which they were fixed, whose
+ thatched roof was pulled off while in a state of rampant
+ ignition by fire-coolies, who with bare hands, and no other
+ protection than their saturated clothing, fought with the
+ actual fire. One plucky fellow fell through the roof while
+ thus employed, and, as the spectators still shuddered at his
+ anticipated fate, rushed out apparently uninjured, and,
+ re-ascending, resumed his fiery task with unabated vigour.
+ Although the fire-charms were triumphant on this occasion,
+ they did not escape unscorched, and several engines had to
+ be kept in constant play upon them and their supporters, to
+ prevent the one from ignition, and the other from being
+ baked in their armour like crabs in their shells.</p>
+
+ <p>The engines in present use are made of wood, and, though
+ simple, are efficient in damping the roofs of houses (which,
+ being tiled with thin squares of wood, are very inflammable),
+ putting out embers, and playing upon the firemen, who, as
+ already indicated, prefer being stewed to being roasted. The
+ Japanese, however, are thoroughly aware of the superiority of
+ our engines, which will probably soon take the place of their
+ own, as the people are singularly quick in availing themselves
+ of anything useful.</p>
+
+ <p>The townspeople generally calculate on being burnt out once
+ in every seven years, and whenever this calamity falls upon
+ them, no time is lost in rebuilding. For instance, in December,
+ 1864, a fragment of blazing wood,
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page9"
+ id="page9"></a>[pg 9]</span> from a fire which destroyed the
+ United Service Club at Yokohama, was blown across to the
+ village of Omura before alluded to, which was half burnt
+ down, greatly endangering the General Small-Pox Hospital and
+ the huts of the Royal Marine Battalion in its rear. But
+ early next morning, while the embers of the old houses were
+ still smoking, new ones were in course of erection, and
+ before night some of the industrious occupants were fairly
+ roofed in afresh.<a id="footnotetag2"
+ name="footnotetag2"></a><a href="#footnote2"><sup>2</sup></a></p><span class="pagenum">
+ <a name="page10"
+ id="page10"></a>[pg 10]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+ <h3>DOMESTIC LIFE.</h3>
+
+ <p>It is impossible to mark the even and peaceable tenor of
+ Japanese life, the politeness, industry, respect for superiors,
+ and general air of cheerfulness and content, that pervades all
+ classes, without admiration of the wise regulations which
+ preserve such order amongst them as a people. Quarrels and
+ blows are almost unknown in families; the husband is gentle,
+ the wife exemplary and affectionate, and the children
+ singularly obedient and reverent to their parents: yet 'Spare
+ the rod and spoil the child' is a precept totally disregarded.
+ The children are never beaten, nor do the parents allow
+ themselves to lose their tempers in rebuking them, however
+ great the provocation may be&mdash;one remarkable result of the
+ complete self-abnegation inculcated by their social system.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image006.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i6"
+ id="i6"><img width="315"
+ src="images/image006s.jpg"
+ alt="" /></a>
+
+ <p>A JAPANESE WEDDING</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The relative position of father and son is very striking.
+ From an early age the latter enjoys the entire confidence of
+ the former, who not only treats him as a grown-up person, but
+ frequently refers disputed matters to his arbitration,
+ invariably abiding by his decision. Again, on a son's arriving
+ at manhood, the parents often resign their property in his
+ favour, relying on him, with a confidence rarely misplaced, for
+ maintenance during the remainder of their lives; and so sacred
+ is this trust considered, that in case of the son's demise it
+ devolves indisputably on his wife and children. So far, what
+ could be more promising? But, alas! like everything else,
+ Japanese life has a dark side, and in this case it consists of
+ a repulsive custom, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page11"
+ id="page11"></a>[pg 11]</span> which permits indigent
+ parents to sell their daughters for a term of years into a
+ state of bondage, for purposes of the most degrading nature.
+ This possibility more than counterbalances all the brighter
+ features of their domestic economy. Generally speaking, when
+ young girls find themselves a burden to their parents, they
+ seek employment in the tea-houses, where they are well
+ looked after and instructed in various accomplishments, for
+ which they serve a certain apprenticeship, and at its
+ expiration generally marry, as girls so educated are eagerly
+ sought after.</p>
+
+ <p>There are two forms of marriage, either of which is legally
+ binding. One is a religious, and the other a civil contract,
+ not very dissimilar from our marriage by the registrar, saving
+ that the bride's parents sign for her. Whichever form is used,
+ the parents receive a sum of money from the bridegroom; but in
+ neither case is the husband supposed to see the face of his
+ bride until all due formalities have been performed. The
+ religious ceremony takes place in a temple: the pair, after
+ listening to a lengthy harangue from one of the attendant
+ priests, approach the altar, where large tapers are presented
+ to them; the bride, instructed by the priest, lights her taper
+ at the sacred censer on the altar, and the bridegroom, igniting
+ his from hers, allows the two flames to combine, and burn
+ steadily together, thus symbolizing the perfect unity of the
+ marriage state; and this completes the ceremonial.</p>
+
+ <p>The illustration represents the private ratification of the
+ civil contract, which is a simple form, by which the parties
+ take upon themselves the respective duties of husband and wife.
+ The veiled figure in white is the 'hanna-yomie,' or 'bride,' in
+ the act of acknowledging the 'hanna-moko,' or 'bridegroom' (who
+ sits opposite to her in an official dress), by partaking of the
+ nuptial saki. This 'saki,' or 'wine,' is prepared by two
+ intimate female friends of the bride, who first pour it into
+ the gold and silver lacquer vessels on the stand, which
+ respectively represent the husband and wife, and then, taking
+ the vessels in hand, mix the contents in a cup, and deliver it
+ to the 'shewarin,' or 'master of the ceremonies,' who hands it
+ to the bride, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page12"
+ id="page12"></a>[pg 12]</span> then to the bridegroom, and
+ both partake of the contents, which act constitutes the
+ marriage.</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:30%">
+ <a href="images/image007.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image007.jpg"
+ alt="A Dose of Moxa. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>A Dose of Moxa. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki
+ they do not attend on the bride. Such offices as are required
+ are performed by a married couple, the shewarin and his wife.
+ It is they who make the necessary arrangements, and provide the
+ pheasants that appear in the recess; which signify that the
+ hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant, will always jealously guard
+ his charmer, who, like the shy hen-bird, will readily respond
+ to the call of her mate.</p>
+
+ <p>A more practical idea of the requirements of married life
+ may be deduced from the annexed woodcut, representing the
+ application of moxa, which is very commonly used as a remedy
+ for rheumatism, and to promote circulation.</p>
+
+ <p>Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in
+ their houses; and when other occupations fail them, the
+ spinning-wheel, or loom, is brought out, and materials for
+ clothing their families are prepared. In the country, the women
+ share equally with their husbands and children in agricultural
+ labours; early and late whole families may be seen in the
+ paddy-fields transplanting rice, or superintending its
+ irrigation, for which the undulating nature of the country
+ affords great facility.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:35%">
+ <a href="images/image008.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image008.jpg"
+ alt="Transplanting Rice. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Transplanting Rice. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they
+ have always a cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under
+ extremely irritating <span class="pagenum"><a name="page13"
+ id="page13"></a>[pg 13]</span> circumstances, as they are
+ greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in the
+ paddy-fields.</p>
+
+ <p>The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation
+ of the soil is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with
+ surprise on the luxuriant crops of cereals, roots, and
+ vegetables; and this is solely owing to the care taken in
+ preparing the soil, which is not naturally productive. Weeds
+ are never to be met with in the fields, which, however, from
+ the constant manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet fresh
+ smell of our own.</p>
+
+ <p>With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese
+ who cannot read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling
+ they use computing slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which
+ they quickly settle the amount to be paid. They do not, except
+ in the higher classes, receive what we understand by a general
+ or scientific education, the members of each trade or
+ profession being only instructed in what pertains to their own
+ affairs&mdash;a fact the inquiring stranger soon
+ discovers.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page14"
+ id="page14"></a>[pg 14]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+ <h3>THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY.</h3>
+
+ <p>The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal
+ princes, called Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their
+ respective provinces, but subject to the general control of one
+ of their number, (selected from one of three great families),
+ called the 'Tycoon,' who, assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great
+ Council,' presides over the affairs of the state in the name of
+ the 'Mikado,' or 'Spiritual Emperor,' its supreme head.</p>
+
+ <p>The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the
+ disturbances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance
+ lies in possessing the power of issuing decrees, bestowing
+ titles, and delegating authority to others; and princes
+ discontented with the Tycoon are constantly intriguing against
+ his legitimate influence with the Mikado. For instance: an
+ attempt was made in 1864 by a powerful coalition, headed by
+ Choisiu, prince of Nangato, to obtain possession of the
+ Mikado's person. This was only prevented after a severe
+ struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose care
+ the palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict
+ a large portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image009.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i9"
+ id="i9"><img width="310"
+ src="images/image009s.jpg"
+ alt="A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT" /></a>
+
+ <p>A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require
+ his presence elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of
+ the city, and is surrounded by grounds several miles in
+ circumference, and enclosed by a deep moat. It is there that he
+ receives the compulsory visits of the grandees of the empire,
+ one of whom, on the point of being ushered into the
+ audience-chamber, is <span class="pagenum"><a name="page15"
+ id="page15"></a>[pg 15]</span> shown opposite, in his robes
+ of ceremony, and attended by a sword-bearer, in token of his
+ high rank. The bonze, or priest, who precedes him, does not
+ impart any religious signification to the visit, as priests
+ commonly act in the double capacity of spy and master of the
+ ceremonies. The screen, which forms the background of the
+ illustration is worthy of attention, as its subject is taken
+ from the Japanese mythology, and represents the great
+ sun-god from whom Ten-zio-dai-zin, the patron goddess of the
+ empire, sprang.</p>
+
+ <p>In public, these oligarchical princes are invariably
+ surrounded by all the pomp of feudal state, and when they
+ travel are escorted by large bodies of retainers. At Kanagawa,
+ which adjoins the settlement of Yokohama, the foreigner has
+ frequent opportunities of witnessing their processions as they
+ pass to and fro along the 'tokaido,' or 'great public road,'
+ when they are going on their compulsory visits to Yeddo from
+ their own country palaces. Nor is much danger attached to this,
+ as the passing of Daimios whom it would be dangerous to meet on
+ the tokaido, is always notified by the authorities to the
+ consul. On witnessing a Daimio's procession for the first time,
+ it is hard to realise that it is not a scene from some gorgeous
+ pantomime, ao brilliant and varied are the costumes of the
+ retainers, and so totally different is it from anything which
+ European eyes are accustomed to gaze upon. But should anything
+ excite the risible faculties of the observer, his
+ hallucinations are likely to be quickly scattered by the scowls
+ of the resolute-looking fellows passing by with 'hand on
+ sword,' needing but little encouragement to 'set a glory' to
+ it, 'by giving it the worship of revenge,' as they are
+ extremely jealous of the honour of their prince, and regard the
+ presence of foreigners on the tokaido at such times as an
+ insult. This circumstance is also rendered more galling by
+ foreigners sitting coolly on their horses by the road-side as
+ the great man passes, generally in a low norimon, on which they
+ must necessarily look down&mdash;in contradiction to Japanese
+ etiquette, which permits no inferior to look down upon a
+ superior&mdash;while the people of the country are either
+ abjectly kowtowing to him or patiently waiting in their closed
+ houses until his passing shall set them once more at
+ liberty.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page16"
+ id="page16"></a>[pg 16]</span>
+
+ <p>A review given the by two ministers for foreign affairs to
+ Sir Rutherford Alcock, shortly before his departure, was a very
+ imposing spectacle. The approach of the ministers was announced
+ by the beating of drums (which are sometimes carried on the
+ shoulder and struck by the palm of the hand) and the blowing of
+ conch-shells, each instrument being sounded three times in
+ succession, at short intervals. Men in armour carrying banners,
+ bearing the Tycoon's crest, headed the procession. They were
+ followed by a large drum in a square case, carried by two men,
+ and the conch-blowers; then came a number of spearmen in
+ armour; officers on horseback immediately preceding the
+ ministers. On arriving at the ground they dismounted, and were
+ received by Sir Rutherford Alcock, the remainder of their
+ retinue passing on and forming in rear of the others, to the
+ left of the English garrison, consisting of the second
+ battalion of the 20th Regiment, the Royal Marine battalion, and
+ detachments of Royal Artillery, of the 67th Regiment, and
+ Beloochees, who were drawn up in brigade in honour of the
+ occasion. At the request of the ministers the garrison marched
+ past and performed a few manoeuvres, concluding with
+ discharging blank cartridge in squares and in skirmishing
+ order. The rapidity of the fire appeared to make a great
+ impression on them. This over, the Japanese performance
+ commenced; which was a representation of their ancient order of
+ battle, the retainers dividing and forming in lines opposite
+ one another, and about one hundred yards apart. The proceedings
+ were conducted by two marshals on foot; they began by forming
+ the spearmen in line, with emphatic guttural commands, stamping
+ of the feet, and flourishing of gilt batons, to the end of
+ which wisps of paper were attached. All were habited in
+ magnificent armour: some wore complete suits of mail; others
+ chain armour, lined with gorgeous silks. Broad lacquered hats
+ were here and there substituted for helmets; or both were
+ dispensed with, and the temples of the combatants bound with
+ linen cloth, which is their usual headdress in action.
+ Presently a signal was given, on which the opposing lines
+ commenced simultaneously to 'mark line double.' At a second
+ signal they faced into Indian file, and the marshals, placing
+ themselves at their head,
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page17"
+ id="page17"></a>[pg 17]</span> led them off at a swinging
+ trot, the whole party flinging up their heels like boys
+ playing at 'follow my leader,' until startling guttural
+ shouts from the marshals caused the glittering lines to halt
+ and face each other. The horsemen, who had hitherto taken no
+ part in the pageant, were now stationed in rear of the
+ centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the
+ effect by their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour,
+ and the heraldic banners, which were attached to the back of
+ the cuirass and floated about two feet over their heads. As
+ soon as the horsemen were stationed the exciting part of the
+ sham-fight began, by the lines being wheeled backwards and
+ forwards in wings from the centre, and into zigzag
+ formations from central points, with a slow 'stamp-and-go'
+ march, the spears being flourished with each motion and
+ pointed high and low, and right and left, as in our bayonet
+ exercise. The marshals regulated the movements of their
+ respective lines with great accuracy, the one being retired
+ directly the other advanced, so that the relative distance
+ was never altered. After a time both parties suddenly
+ assumed a sitting posture and exchanged howls of defiance,
+ which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a simultaneous rush,
+ as if to engage, finished the performance from which the
+ representatives of barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty
+ cheers of the representatives of the bayonet and rifle.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:25%">
+ <a href="images/image010.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image010.jpg"
+ alt="A Daimio Retainer. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>A Daimio Retainer. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are
+ surrounded by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the
+ country so trammels their actions with formalities and
+ espionage as to keep them in considerable subjection to the
+ Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of their houses respected,
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page18"
+ id="page18"></a>[pg 18]</span> for their families are
+ retained in Yeddo, as hostages for their good behaviour,
+ while they are absent in their principalities. As an
+ occasional relaxation from the cares attendant on their high
+ position, they avail themselves of a privilege called
+ 'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the
+ pleasures and amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings
+ and coloured representations of scenes connected with the
+ higher classes which so largely engross the attention of
+ Japanese artists, generally depict naiboen intrigues and
+ adventures: these convey, however, a very exaggerated idea
+ of the manner in which the Daimios conduct themselves on
+ these occasions.</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:25%">
+ <a href="images/image011.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image011.jpg"
+ alt="Coolies carrying Norimon. [From Native Drawing.]" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>Coolies carrying Norimon. [From Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The family in the house-boat witnessing a pyrotechnic
+ display in the bay of Yeddo, may be regarded as a faithful
+ representation of a Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen. The
+ great man in his light summer robe has apparently cast aside
+ the cares of office, and seems thoroughly to enjoy the cool
+ evening breeze and the society of his wives, only one of whom
+ has a legal claim to that title, by right of which she takes
+ precedence of the others. Of the two bonzes, or priests, in the
+ stem of the boat, one, probably, is a member of the family, and
+ the other its spy, for even naiboen excursions are not exempted
+ from espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this
+ custom that they generally regard it as a necessary check upon
+ themselves. Naiboen excursions to the tea-houses are very
+ frequent, notice being sent previously in order to insure
+ proper accommodation and privacy: the latter precaution being
+ principally taken on account of the ladies of the family, who
+ never go beyond the palace except in a norimon guarded by armed
+ retainers.</p><br clear="all" />
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image013.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i13"
+ id="i13"><img width="308"
+ src="images/image013s.jpg"
+ alt="A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS" /></a>
+
+ <p>A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their
+ habits as the rest of <span class="pagenum"><a name="page19"
+ id="page19"></a>[pg 19]</span> the people. They are much
+ given to study, the favourite subjects being
+ poetry,<a id="footnotetag3"
+ name="footnotetag3"></a><a href="#footnote3"><sup>3</sup></a>
+ history, astronomy, and logic. The children are usually
+ taught the rudiments of education by their mothers, and as
+ they advance in years, are either privately instructed by
+ masters or sent to the great schools at Miako, which are
+ said to be attended by upwards of four thousand
+ scholars.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page20"
+ id="page20"></a>[pg 20]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+ <h3>THE COURT OF THE MIKADO.</h3>
+
+ <p>The spiritual Emperor of Japan is supposed to be a direct
+ descendant of the gods, and as such enjoys the adoration, as
+ well as the fealty of his subjects. Unfortunately, his divine
+ attributes deprive him of the free exercise of his human
+ functions, as his feet are never permitted to touch the ground
+ out of doors; nor is he allowed to cut his hair, beard, or
+ nails, or to expose himself to the rays of the sun, which,
+ would detract from the excellency of his person. His principal
+ titles are, 'Zen Zi'&mdash;'Son of Heaven;'
+ 'Mikado,'&mdash;'Emperor;' and 'Dairi,' or
+ 'Kinrai,'&mdash;'Grand Interior:' the latter denoting the
+ perpetual seclusion of his person. It is said that his ancestry
+ can be traced in an unbroken line from nearly 700 years before
+ the Christian era.</p>
+
+ <p>The Mikado never goes beyond the precincts of the Imperial
+ residence, which occupies a large portion of the city of Miako,
+ comprising numerous palaces and gardens; and connected with it
+ are the schools alluded to in the last chapter, which are
+ established on the plan of a university, and are much resorted
+ to by the children of the nobility.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image015.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i15"
+ id="i15"><img width="313"
+ src="images/image015S.jpg"
+ alt=" A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Whenever this great personage wishes to take an airing, he
+ is carried by fourteen men in a large norimon with latticed
+ windows, through which he is able to see without being seen;
+ and even when granting an audience he is said to be concealed
+ from view by bamboo screen-work. His court consists of the
+ members of his own family and certain great officers of State
+ appointed <span class="pagenum"><a name="page21"
+ id="page21"></a>[pg 21]</span> by the Tycoon, who nominally
+ receive and promulgate his commands; but, in ordinary times,
+ he has no real power in the temporal affairs of the empire,
+ and only refuses to confer legality on the acts of his
+ lieutenant under the pressure of intrigue, or of undue
+ family influence.</p>
+
+ <p>To relieve the wearisome monotony of his life, as well as to
+ prevent the possibility of the sacred race becoming extinct, he
+ is allowed twelve wives, who are chosen from the most beautiful
+ daughters of the chief princes of the empire. These ladies
+ occupy separate palaces in the immediate vicinity of his, where
+ they are attended by their own retainers; but only one of them
+ enjoys the rank of empress, although they are all treated with
+ the deference due to royalty. He is also said to have an
+ unlimited number of concubines, who reside within the bounds of
+ the Imperial establishment.</p>
+
+ <p>The distinctive mark of the members of the Mikado's court
+ and of the ladies of his family consists of two black patches
+ placed on the forehead, and in the arrangement of the hair,
+ which is gathered up in a long cue and curved over the head by
+ one sex, and worn dishevelled and without any kind of ornament
+ by the other. Though the Mikado has little influence in the
+ secular affairs of state, his authority in religious questions
+ is supreme; but it is doubtful if he personally takes any part
+ in the solemnities which are constantly occurring at Miako.</p>
+
+ <p>The subject of illustration represents one of these sacred
+ observances: the procession is coming from the Mikado's palace,
+ which, properly speaking, is a temple, being full of idols and
+ effigies of the 'Kamis,' or 'canonised saints.' The principal
+ figure is the third minister of state, and from this
+ circumstance the white dresses worn by the 'Kargardhee,' or
+ 'fire-bearers,' and the presence of some of the Imperial
+ children, it is probably a midnight pilgrimage to some
+ neighbouring shrine, in honour of the manes of a departed
+ member of the family.</p>
+
+ <p>The early education of the Mikado's children is entrusted to
+ the ladies of the court: the sons, while still young, are sent
+ to different religious fraternities; and the daughters, on
+ attaining a suitable age, are bestowed in
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page22"
+ id="page22"></a>[pg 22]</span> marriage on the nobles of the
+ country, except the eldest, who is appointed chief priestess
+ of the temple of the Sun at Issie, which contains the shrine
+ of Ten-zio-dai-zin, to which all Japanese are supposed to
+ make a pilgrimage once in their lifetime.</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image016.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image016.jpg"
+ alt="A Begging Criminal. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>A Begging Criminal. (Native Drawing.)</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The Mikado is said to spend the greatest portion of his time
+ in the society of his wives, who contribute to his amusement by
+ singing, dancing, and theatrical entertainments. The latter
+ sometimes take place in the open air, as in the scene depicted
+ opposite; on which the 'Grand Interior' and a select party are
+ supposed to be looking down through the jalousies of the
+ palace. The vocal, instrumental, and theatrical talents of the
+ performers, are here called into play, the arena for the latter
+ being the 'Mekoshee,' or movable stage, in which a female
+ figure may be noticed declaiming her part. The long-handled,
+ fantastically-coloured umbrellas, belong to the Imperial
+ attendants taking part in the theatricals, whose hair, it will
+ be noticed, is arranged according to court etiquette.</p>
+
+ <p>The men whose features are concealed by their broad hats are
+ 'Ninsokee,' or 'public singers.' Generally speaking they belong
+ to the aristocratic class, and are reduced to earn their
+ livelihood in this manner in consequence of some misdemeanour,
+ on account of which their property has been forfeited to the
+ state. Their occupation is in itself a punishment, as Japanese
+ gentlemen never sing, regarding that accomplishment as
+ derogatory to their dignity. A certain class of criminals also
+ wear a disguise of this nature, as shown in the woodcut.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image017.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i17"
+ id="i17"><img width="313"
+ src="images/image017s.jpg"
+ alt="THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE&lt;/div&gt; " />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S
+ PALACE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image018.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i18"
+ id="i18"><img width="313"
+ src="images/image018S.jpg"
+ alt="LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY
+ DANCE</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page23"
+ id="page23"></a>[pg 23]</span>
+
+ <p>The band here represented is much stronger than those that
+ generally figure in Japanese orchestral and theatrical
+ entertainments. Music is not used, as with us, to fill the
+ interval between the pieces, but accompanies the performers
+ throughout; the louder instruments being energetically struck
+ as the singing becomes impassioned or the actors
+ declamatory.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image019.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image019.jpg"
+ alt="Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The butterfly dance is another specimen of the amusements
+ with which the ladies of the Mikado's court while away their
+ monotonous existence. As here shown, it is a private
+ performance, of which the Empress and her principal attendants
+ are the only spectators. The insects are personated by two of
+ her ladies, who mimic their motions and sing praises of the
+ different flowers they pretend to alight upon, to the
+ accompaniment of a band of fair musicians. But the most
+ interesting part of the affair is a spirited dialogue, in which
+ they cleverly criticise, under floral appellations, the
+ different ladies of the court, in a manner equally gratifying
+ and flattering to their royal mistress.</p>
+
+ <p>The Mikado is always waited upon by the ladies of his court,
+ and is said never to eat twice from the same vessels, which are
+ broken to pieces as they are removed. An intelligent yaconin,
+ however, on being questioned about this point, was much amused;
+ and, though he professed ignorance of the subject, was
+ evidently very sceptical on the matter of the
+ dishes.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page24"
+ id="page24"></a>[pg 24]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+ <h3>The 'HARA KIRU.'</h3>
+
+ <p>Although we have long been aware of the existence of this
+ peculiar mode of suicide, the exclusive policy of the Japanese
+ has placed insuperable difficulties in the way of obtaining
+ accurate information concerning it.</p>
+
+ <p>A more enlightened policy is now gaining ground in the
+ country. The chromo-lithographs that illustrate these
+ 'Sketches' are fac-similes of paintings by native artists,
+ selected from a series lately published at Yeddo, and sold to
+ foreigners with the connivance, if not by permission, of the
+ authorities; for the spy system in Japan is so perfect, that
+ illicit dealings are next to impossible.</p>
+
+ <p>As Japanese punishments entail disgrace on every member of
+ the culprit's family, the 'Hara Kiru,' or 'happy dispatch,'
+ which is the only exception, is regarded as a great privilege
+ by the classes entitled to avail themselves of it These consist
+ of the nobility, military, and official of a certain rank
+ holding civil appointments.</p>
+
+ <p>It seems to be a prevalent idea that this sacrifice is
+ reserved for political offences; but this is not the case, as
+ crimes of all descriptions are condoned by it.</p>
+
+ <p>A simple act of suicide does not constitute the 'Hara Kiru.'
+ To render the act legal, and to ensure the heir and family of
+ the person performing it against disgrace and loss of property,
+ an order for its performance must be issued by the Tycoon, or
+ by the suzerain prince of the
+ culprit.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page25"
+ id="page25"></a>[pg 25]</span>
+
+ <p>The Japanese, being a high-spirited and patriotic people,
+ consider that death under any circumstances is preferable to
+ dishonour; and the privileged classes always carry about with
+ them when they travel the paraphernalia used at the performance
+ of the 'Hara Kiru,' in token of their readiness to prove their
+ patriotism, or to die rather than disgrace their family.</p>
+
+ <p>The dress consists of a robe and 'harakama,' or 'winged
+ official dress,' of coarse white cloth&mdash;white being the
+ funeral colour of the country&mdash;which is undistinguished by
+ the crest or any sign of the rank of the owner. There is also
+ the disembowelling knife, the blade of which is about eight
+ inches long, and very sharp.</p>
+
+ <p>When the sentence of the 'Hara Kiru' is awarded, or the
+ humble request of a defeated politician to perform it is
+ acceded to, a formal document is made out and duly signed by
+ the competent authorities. It is then delivered to two
+ commissioners, by whom it is conveyed to the culprit.</p>
+
+ <p>Should the proposed victim be a Daimio of importance, and
+ sufficiently powerful to set the Tycoon at defiance, the
+ delivery of the imperial mandate is likely to be attended with
+ unpleasant results, as the bearers are sometimes waylaid and
+ murdered by retainers of the doomed prince, and have frequently
+ to resort to stratagem to accomplish their task. But when once
+ the mandate is delivered, the prince must submit, or he would
+ lose caste even with his own followers, so strongly are the
+ Japanese imbued with respect for the ancient customs of their
+ country.</p>
+
+ <p>The accompanying illustrations represent the different
+ formalities that are observed at the performance of the 'Hara
+ Kiru' by a Daimio.</p>
+
+ <p>On receiving the official intimation of his sentence, he
+ orders the necessary preparations to be made, and informs his
+ friends and relatives of it, inviting them to share in a
+ parting carouse with him.</p>
+
+ <p>On the appointed day, after taking a private farewell of his
+ family, he receives his friends. He is habited in his white
+ robes, and supported by two of his relatives or ministers,
+ similarly attired. When the time arrives (which is previously
+ arranged with the commissioners) he takes leave of the guests,
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page26"
+ id="page26"></a>[pg 26]</span> as on any ordinary occasion,
+ and enters the screened enclosure, accompanied by his
+ supporters. It will be noticed, that the retainers guarding
+ the exterior and entrance are barefooted, which is a mark of
+ respect in honour of the rank of the culprit, and of the
+ solemnity of the occasion.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image020.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i20"
+ id="i20"><img width="302"
+ src="images/image020s.jpg"
+ alt="THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The Tycoon's messengers then read the imperial mandate,
+ which proclaims that, in accordance with the ancient custom of
+ the country, the Daimio is permitted honourably to sacrifice
+ himself for its benefit, and thus to expiate in his own person
+ the crime or offence he has committed against the welfare of
+ the state. In the illustration, the two officials charged with
+ this disagreeable office are sitting opposite the Daimio and
+ his friends, reading the fatal document, their suite
+ surrounding them in respectful attitudes.</p>
+
+ <p>The whole party wear the official dress, which intimates at
+ once the respect due to the victim and the official nature of
+ the ceremony.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image021.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i21"
+ id="i21"><img width="314"
+ src="images/image021s.jpg"
+ alt="THE SACRIFICE" /></a>
+
+ <p>THE SACRIFICE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The second scene shows the Daimio on the point of performing
+ the sacrificial ceremony. His forelock is reversed, as a sign
+ of submission to his fate, and to assist the executioner, who,
+ as soon as his master goes through the form of disembowelling
+ himself with the knife on the stand, will, with one blow of his
+ razor-edged sword, complete the sacrifice by decapitation. Only
+ the two chief commissioners appointed by the Tycoon, and the
+ sorely-tasked supporters of the victim, remain to witness the
+ last act of the drama. The rest of the party await its
+ completion in the adjoining compartment of the enclosure, which
+ is expressly constructed for that purpose.</p>
+
+ <p>The funeral procession, which is the subject of the next
+ scene, is accompanied by all the pomp indicative of the high
+ position of the deceased. The mourners wear robes of white
+ cloth, and all the feudal paraphernalia are draped with the
+ same material; which, as before mentioned, is used in Japanese
+ mourning. The coffin is carried near the head of the
+ procession; it is a square box of resinous wood, covered over
+ with white, and the body is placed in it in a sitting
+ posture.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image022.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i22"
+ id="i22"><img width="315"
+ src="images/image022s.jpg"
+ alt="A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL" /></a>
+
+ <p>A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page27"
+ id="page27"></a>[pg 27]</span>
+
+ <p>All the members of the family attend the funeral, either on
+ foot or in norimons. If the wife and the heir be absent in
+ Yeddo, they are represented by the nearest relations. In this
+ instance both are present, from which it may be inferred that
+ the sacrificial act has taken place in the neighbourhood of
+ Yeddo.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image024.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i24"
+ id="i24"><img width="312"
+ src="images/image024s.jpg"
+ alt="CREMATION OF THE BODY" /></a>
+
+ <p>CREMATION OF THE BODY</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Although the Japanese sometimes bury their dead, they
+ generally practise cremation. Repulsive as this custom is to
+ European ideas, it must be remembered that the Japanese are not
+ singular in preferring it, as several of the most civilised
+ nations of antiquity considered it the most honourable mode of
+ disposing of the bodies of the dead. While the body is being
+ reduced to ashes the priests tell their beads and chant prayers
+ for the soul of the departed, as the followers of almost every
+ religious sect in Japan believe in a state of purgatory.</p>
+
+ <p>The last scene shows the wife and son of the victim of the
+ 'Hara Kiru' collecting his ashes and depositing them in an
+ earthenware jar. This is afterwards sealed down and conveyed to
+ the cemetery, or temple, which contains the remains of his
+ ancestors.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image025.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i25"
+ id="i25"><img width="312"
+ src="images/image025s.jpg"
+ alt="RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES" /></a>
+
+ <p>RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Some of the Japanese cemeteries are very extensive; and they
+ are generally situated in secluded, picturesque spots, in the
+ neighbourhood of the towns and villages.</p>
+
+ <p>The graves are small, round, cemented receptacles; just
+ large enough to receive the jar containing the ashes. If the
+ body is buried (which only happens when the deceased is
+ friendless, or too poor to pay the expenses of cremation), the
+ head is always placed pointing to the north. The tombstones are
+ ordinarily about three feet high; and are either square or
+ circular in shape, resting on square pedestals, in which small
+ holes are cut to contain rice and water. The supplies of these
+ are replenished from time to time, generally by the women of
+ the family, lest the spirit of the deceased should revisit its
+ grave and imagine itself neglected. Sometimes flowers are
+ placed before the graves, and flowering sprigs of peach and
+ plum are stuck in the ground about
+ them.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page28"
+ id="page28"></a>[pg 28]</span>
+
+ <p>Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to
+ propitiate the deities in favour of their departed relatives;
+ and the neighbourhood of a graveyard may generally he detected
+ by the peculiar aromatic odour emitted during the burning of
+ these. For some time after a funeral the relatives daily visit
+ the tomb and intercede for the dead, holding their hands up in
+ the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the palms together as they
+ mutter their monotonous
+ orisons.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page29"
+ id="page29"></a>[pg 29]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+ <h3>NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.</h3>
+
+ <p>Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they
+ are great lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to
+ sight-seeing; theatres and wax-work exhibitions are very
+ numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and tumblers, are regular
+ <i>habitu&eacute;s</i> of the streets.</p>
+
+ <p>Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business,
+ they do not hesitate to associate it with religious
+ observances; and on solemn festival occasions, the vicinity of
+ even the most sacred temples is occupied by a variety of shows
+ and common stalls, for the sale of sweetmeats, toys, and
+ coloured pictures.</p>
+
+ <p>Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may
+ he regarded as the national game of the country. It is very
+ generally practised, and pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be
+ frequently met with of an evening in the outskirts of towns and
+ villages, either crouched down in the preliminary attitude,
+ which resembles that of angry fighting-cocks, or dragging one
+ another to and fro like frogs struggling over a choice morsel.
+ The game is necessarily a dragging and pulling one, its grand
+ object being to force the opponent beyond a certain
+ boundary.</p>
+
+ <p>So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who
+ travel about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios
+ keep private bands: each district has some especial champion;
+ and every Japanese a favourite '<i>smoo</i>' as they term the
+ wrestlers, whose exploits are canvassed with an
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page30"
+ id="page30"></a>[pg 30]</span> enthusiasm totally at
+ variance with the stolid indifference which usually
+ characterises the people, when any subject is broached that
+ does not directly concern their ordinary vocations.</p>
+
+ <p>The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean
+ proportions. From constant practice they attain a muscular
+ development that would eclipse that of our prize-ring
+ champions; but their paunchy figures and sluggish movements
+ render any further comparison impossible, as they neither
+ practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and weight
+ are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which
+ their performances are confined: so, instead of walking down
+ superabundant flesh, they endeavour to increase it, dieting
+ themselves on rice and fish, which is far from productive of
+ any Bantingite result. The illustration of the Great Wrestling
+ Amphitheatre at Yeddo conveys a fair idea of the estimation in
+ which athletic games are held by the Japanese. The enclosure is
+ capable of containing several thousand spectators, and is
+ always filled when a match of importance takes place.</p>
+
+ <p>In the centre is the '<i>docho</i>,' or 'boundary-ring,'
+ which is about eighteen feet in diameter. The game is generally
+ decided by one or other of the combatants being forced against
+ this boundary; for, although a fair throw counts, it rarely
+ decides the mastery, as the great weight and the crouching
+ position of the wrestlers necessitate dragging, pushing, and
+ even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp is such, that
+ any other results are almost impossible.</p>
+
+ <p>The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low;
+ and, like everything else of a public nature, is regulated by
+ the government Officials are appointed to superintend the
+ arrangements, and to see that no accidents arise from
+ overcrowding. For this purpose they are provided with a box
+ that overlooks the whole building.</p>
+
+ <p>The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage,
+ from which the commencement and duration of each match are
+ intimated to the audience by a certain number of strokes on the
+ drum that surmounts it.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image026.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i26"
+ id="i26"><img width="312"
+ src="images/image026s.jpg"
+ alt="PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page31"
+ id="page31"></a>[pg 31]</span>
+
+ <p>Before each wrestling-match commences, the 'geogee,' or
+ 'judge,' who superintends it, shouts out the names and exploits
+ of the contenders, who, after kowtowing very ceremoniously to
+ one another, rise to the preliminary attitude.</p>
+
+ <p>At a signal from the judge the combatants commence. At first
+ they move cautiously about the centre of the ring, watching a
+ favourable opportunity to close, which they presently do with
+ deep guttural exclamations. Then great working of muscle and
+ tugging and straining follow, the spectators cheering on their
+ respective favourites, until the fall of the geogee's
+ fan&mdash;which is the moment depicted by the
+ artist&mdash;proclaims the victor.</p>
+
+ <p>Thundering plaudits greet the hero of the occasion, who
+ presently strolls about among the assembled multitude, attended
+ by his 'coegi,' or 'servant,' who collects the offerings with
+ which they liberally reward his exertions. When money fails,
+ articles of clothing are frequently bestowed&mdash;and
+ sometimes too freely, as it is by no means unusual for both
+ sexes to half denude themselves at these exhibitions; and it is
+ a favourite joke with the women to send their male friends to
+ redeem the articles from the wrestler.</p>
+
+ <p>Although fencing is a military exercise, it is so commonly
+ practised by the Japanese 'yaconinierie,' or 'soldiery,' who
+ comprise a large portion of the population, and is entered into
+ by them in so spirited a manner, that it deserves to be classed
+ as an amusement.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image027.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image027.jpg"
+ alt="Yaconins fencing." /></a>
+
+ <p>Yaconins fencing.</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The woodcut is a very faithful representation of yaconins
+ fencing. The masks cover the whole of the head; and the arms,
+ breast, and hips, are protected by cuirass, petticoat, &amp;c.
+ of leather ribbed with bamboo.</p>
+
+ <p>The fencing sticks are of the same length as the
+ 'obi-todee-auf-catana,' <span class="pagenum"><a name="page32"
+ id="page32"></a>[pg 32]</span> or 'great fighting-sword.'
+ They are made of split canes, bound tightly together, and
+ are used with both hands.</p>
+
+ <p>The Japanese fence well, and deliver their points with great
+ precision, especially an awkward downward thrust at the
+ breast.</p>
+
+ <p>They deliver their cuts and points with fierce guttural
+ exclamations, which are peculiarly disagreeable to European
+ ears; especially when the listener is located in the vicinity
+ of a guard-house, whose occupants notify their employment at
+ daybreak with such cries as 'Hie-e! Ah-h! Atturah-h!' ('That's
+ at! that's into you!') and continue this information,
+ accompanied by the clashing of their sticks, and occasional
+ chuckles, until late in the afternoon.</p>
+
+ <p>The Japanese are great frequenters of the theatres, of the
+ interior of one of which the illustration is a very good
+ representation&mdash;the exterior is generally very like that
+ of the temples; and in some, the ground-floor is laid out with
+ miniature lakes and bridges, the audience looking down on the
+ performance from lateral and opposite galleries.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image028.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i28"
+ id="i28"><img width="318"
+ src="images/image028s.jpg"
+ alt="INTERIOR OF A THEATRE" /></a>
+
+ <p>INTERIOR OF A THEATRE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The stage is a little smaller than ours, but sometimes has a
+ promenade through the centre of the theatre, which facilitates
+ by-play, to which the Japanese attach great importance. The
+ body of the house is divided into boxes, which are generally
+ taken by family parties, who bring their provisions with them
+ and remain all day, as the performances begin about 10 A.M. and
+ last until late in the evening. Their plays are very tedious,
+ although enlivened by a good deal of smart
+ <i>repart&eacute;e</i> and telling jokes, but the morality even
+ of the most correct is very questionable. Love, of course, is
+ the prevailing feature; and the adventures of the principal
+ heroes contain enough bloodshed and murder to satisfy the most
+ ardent admirer of sensation dramas. In their hand-to-hand
+ encounters they cut and slash at one another with naked swords,
+ which they manage very skilfully, never permitting the blades
+ to come into contact. The female parts are performed by boys
+ and young men, who, with the assistance of paint and powder,
+ make admirable <span class="pagenum"><a name="page33"
+ id="page33"></a>[pg 33]</span> substitutes for women, though
+ singing and dancing-girls are frequently introduced as
+ divertissements.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter"
+ style="width:40%">
+ <a href="images/image029.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image029.jpg"
+ alt="Getting ready to go to the Theatre." /></a>
+ Getting ready to go to the Theatre.
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and
+ childhood may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at
+ soaring monsters, in the construction of which great ingenuity
+ is displayed.</p>
+
+ <p>The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a
+ quarter of the size of ours; and they are much given to
+ gambling, although it is strictly prohibited, and, when
+ detected, severely punished. But the most popular in-door game
+ is &amp; sort of combination of draughts and chess, which
+ frequently engrosses the players for hours at a
+ time.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page34"
+ id="page34"></a>[pg 34]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+ <h3>CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS.</h3>
+
+ <p>Crimes against property are rare in Japan, which is owing to
+ the high-spirited and honourable feelings that actuate all
+ classes of the community; but from the feudal nature of the
+ government, the small value attached to life, and the deadly
+ weapons constantly carried, by the military classes, who are
+ notoriously proud and revengeful, crimes against the person are
+ very frequent.</p>
+
+ <p>A great check upon criminal offences is the severity of the
+ punishments inflicted, and the disgrace entailed upon the
+ culprit's family.</p>
+
+ <p>Although the laws are extremely severe, and in their
+ administration there is neither jury nor counsel, justice is
+ delivered with great impartiality; and the judge, who is
+ generally the governor of the town or district in which the
+ offence has been committed, is entrusted with considerable
+ discretionary power.</p>
+
+ <p>When a prisoner is being examined his arms are bound to his
+ sides by a rope, which also passes round his neck, the end of
+ which is held by an official, who, if his charge prove unruly,
+ manages him by pulls and jerks.</p>
+
+ <p>'Thrashemono,' or 'public exposure,' is associated with all
+ Japanese punishments, and is said to be in itself a great
+ preventive of crime, as the spirited Japanese dread being held
+ up to the reprobation of their acquaintance more than they fear
+ the extreme penalty of the law.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image030.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i30"
+ id="i30"><img width="310"
+ src="images/image030s.jpg"
+ alt="MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The illustration, showing the mode of conducting a criminal
+ to execution, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page35"
+ id="page35"></a>[pg 35]</span> is an instance of
+ 'thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a horse, and is
+ preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or neighbours,
+ and indicating his crime. In this manner he is conducted
+ through the town to the place of execution, where his
+ sentence is read to him. He is then placed (with his limbs
+ still bound) over a freshly-dug hole, where he is supported
+ by his relatives till the executioner's sword performs its
+ task.</p>
+
+ <p>After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally
+ exposed: that of Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in
+ the presence of the British garrison of Yokohama, for being the
+ organizer of the assassination of Major Baldwin and Lieutenant
+ Bird of Her Majesty's 20th Regiment) was exhibited on the
+ public stand at the guard-house at the entrance of the
+ town.</p>
+
+ <p>This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a
+ most determined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of
+ crime.</p>
+
+ <p>When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding
+ his execution, he conducted himself with great bravado,
+ remarking on the improvements in the town since he last visited
+ it, and expressing his regret that he had not killed a
+ consul.</p>
+
+ <p>At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in
+ which he declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had
+ studied the arts and sciences, and never believed the
+ government would sacrifice a Japanese for the death of a
+ foreigner. He said that the days would come when they would
+ repent the encouragement they were now giving to strangers; and
+ ended by complimenting the executioner on his well-known
+ skill.</p>
+
+ <p>The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus
+ ably described by the highest authority on Japanese
+ matters:<a id="footnotetag4"
+ name="footnotetag4"></a><a href="#footnote4"><sup>4</sup></a>&mdash;</p>
+
+ <p>'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who
+ are of his family, or claim his protection, when any of his
+ people are resolved upon a desperate enterprise they formally
+ renounce the protection and declare themselves
+ "lonins;"&mdash;in other words, outlaws, or friendless men:
+ after <span class="pagenum"><a name="page36"
+ id="page36"></a>[pg 36]</span> which no one is responsible
+ for their acts, and this is considered a highly honourable
+ and proper thing to do.</p>
+
+ <p>The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or
+ assisting a lonin endangers his head; and such men are,
+ therefore, compelled to resort to robbery and extortion as
+ means of supporting themselves. It generally happens that this
+ legalised method of taking the law into their own hands drives
+ those who avail themselves of it into a series of crimes, and
+ frequently they become the associates of common thieves.</p>
+
+ <p>Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a
+ rich merchant's house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest
+ being thieves in disguise.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image031.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i31"
+ id="i31"><img width="325"
+ src="images/image031s.jpg"
+ alt="LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords
+ plainly intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm,
+ or to offer resistance to their demands, have apparently been
+ collecting all the money in the house and are laying it before
+ the thieves. The oblong boxes are iron safes, in which the
+ Japanese keep their money.</p>
+
+ <p>From the position of the other members of the gang, it is
+ evident that they have not got all they require, and are
+ watching something going on in the interior of the house. They
+ have probably learnt that the merchant has to forward some
+ money for the purchase of goods by a certain date, and know
+ exactly how much to expect.</p>
+
+ <p>In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the
+ Yeddo merchants, congratulated them on the fact that the
+ portion of the country under his immediate control was exempt
+ from the depredations of lonins; but notwithstanding this
+ statement, a robbery of the nature described took place in the
+ capital immediately after the issue of the Tycoon's manifesto,
+ and a lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for his conduct,
+ that he had learnt that the money was intended for foreigners,
+ who were settled in the country in opposition to the laws of
+ Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked.</p>
+
+ <p>With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant
+ classes, that it frequently happens that one or two will go
+ into a village and extort what they require without the
+ slightest resistance being
+ offered.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page37"
+ id="page37"></a>[pg 37]</span>
+
+ <p>As a rule, Japanese punishments resemble those inflicted by
+ the Chinese, and seem to be based on the Mosaic principle of
+ 'an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth.' Arson, for
+ instance, is punished at the stake; and a thief who endeavours
+ to conceal the results of his robberies by burying them, has
+ the disadvantages of that mode of concealment impressed upon
+ him, by being himself embedded for a day or two in the ground,
+ with only his head out&mdash;a mode of instruction that rarely
+ requires a repetition of the lesson.</p>
+
+ <p><i>Apropos</i> of this punishment is the testimony of an
+ eye-witness, who, in passing the public execution place at
+ Yeddo, noticed a head on the ground, which he supposed to have
+ been recently struck off. He had turned away with a shudder,
+ when a laugh from the bystanders caused him to look again,
+ when, to his great astonishment, the head was vigorously
+ puffing at a pipe which the facetious executioner had a few
+ moments before been smoking himself.</p>
+
+ <p>The last illustration shows a man and woman undergoing
+ public exposure for adultery&mdash;a crime which is rare in
+ Japan and which is punished with great severity.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image032.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i32"
+ id="i32"><img width="318"
+ src="images/image032s.jpg"
+ alt="EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY" /></a>
+
+ <p>EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>With such detestation is it regarded, that, in addition to
+ all legal cognizance, the husband is permitted, in certain
+ instances, to avenge himself by taking the lives of the
+ offenders upon the spot.</p>
+
+ <p>The board on the right contains the official intimation of
+ the crime.</p>
+
+ <p>The curious instruments depicted in the woodcut are Japanese
+ emblems of justice and are to be seen at all the guard-houses;
+ they are used to catch runaway offenders or to pin a drunken
+ yaconin against a wall or house, and so facilitate the task of
+ disarming him without danger to the captors.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:30%">
+ <a href="images/image033.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image033.jpg"
+ alt="Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo." /></a>
+
+ <p>Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo.</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Although the Japanese use torture to extract information
+ from obstinate criminals, they employ all necessary caution to
+ preserve life; and a doctor and responsible officer are always
+ present when it is employed, as representatives
+ <span class="pagenum"><a name="page38"
+ id="page38"></a>[pg 38]</span> of the respective claims of
+ humanity and justice. A singular punishment, to which only
+ the nobles of the country are liable, is secret banishment
+ to the island of *Fatzisiu, which is situated on the
+ northern coast of the empire. It is small and barren, rising
+ perpendicularly from the sea. The only communication with it
+ is by means of a basket, which is lowered from an
+ overhanging tree to the water, a distance of about fifty
+ feet.<a id="footnotetag5"
+ name="footnotetag5"></a><a href="#footnote5"><sup>5</sup></a>
+ From this island there is no return, and the unhappy,
+ incarcerated nobles, are compelled to support themselves by
+ weaving silks, which are the most beautiful the country
+ produces. A junk visits the island once a-year, when the
+ silks are exchanged for
+ provisions.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page39"
+ id="page39"></a>[pg 39]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+ <h3>SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES.</h3>
+
+ <p>The Sintoo faith and Buddhism are the prevalent religions of
+ the Japanese. The teaching of the other sects is modelled more
+ or less on the tenets inculcated by these two. Some, however,
+ hold a philosophic doctrine, which recognises a Supreme Being
+ but denies a future state, holding that happiness is only to be
+ insured by a virtuous life.</p>
+
+ <p>Sintooism may be regarded as the national religion of the
+ country. It inculcates a high moral standard; and its chief
+ personage is the Mikado, or spiritual emperor, who is
+ considered to be a mediator between his subjects and the
+ inhabitants of the other world.</p>
+
+ <p>Every Sintoo has the image of a patron 'kami,' or 'saint,'
+ enshrined in his house, to which he lays open his necessities
+ and confesses his shortcomings, and by whose intercession with
+ the Supreme Being he trusts at his death to be translated to
+ the regions of the 'kamis,' as they designate their heaven.</p>
+
+ <p>The wicked are supposed to be consigned to the abodes of the
+ disembodied spirits, who are punished according to the nature
+ of their crimes. For instance, saki merchants who have sold bad
+ spirit are believed to be confined in stagnant pools; and
+ murderers are supposed to haunt the graves of their victims,
+ until the prayers of their relatives release them. Purity of
+ life and body is the leading feature of the Sintoo faith. As an
+ emblem of the natural purity of the soul, mirrors are hung up
+ in the temples; and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page40"
+ id="page40"></a>[pg 40]</span> the more ignorant people (who
+ in Japan, like every other country, are most influenced by
+ superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror, that
+ the Supreme Being sees their past lives as easily as they do
+ their own faces. The value attached to indulgences and
+ charms is very great, and the sale of them contributes
+ largely to the revenues of the Mikado. Charms are eagerly
+ purchased by the lower orders, who carry them about their
+ persons, and never let anybody touch them except
+ themselves.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image035.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i35"
+ id="i35"><img width="318"
+ src="images/image035s.jpg"
+ alt="SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION" /></a>
+
+ <p>SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was
+ accidentally dropped by a lively little 'moosmie,' or 'girl,'
+ who was waiting on a party of foreigners. One of them picked it
+ up, and was on the point of opening the small box in which it
+ is placed for safety when she discovered the loss, and made a
+ desperate rush for its recovery. On finding the importance
+ attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, was handed
+ round the group as she eagerly darted after it; and on one of
+ the party pretending to light a cigar with it she burst into
+ tears, and was not to be pacified until it was restored.</p>
+
+ <p>A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese
+ is 'Osurasma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they
+ wisely consider that even the most holy must have some small
+ peccadilloes to answer for.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image036.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i36"
+ id="i36"><img width="312"
+ src="images/image036s.jpg"
+ alt="PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY" /></a>
+
+ <p>PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death:
+ a white lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of
+ the mourners' houses, while they offer oblations and burn
+ joss-sticks. Food is also prepared and laid out, in case the
+ spirit of the departed, finding the journey to the regions of
+ the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should need
+ refreshment.</p>
+
+ <p>No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the
+ white lamp is hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy
+ of a family engaged in these solemn duties, as the spirits of
+ the departed are firmly believed to revisit their former
+ dwellings at such times, if they have not already entered into
+ a state of bliss.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page41"
+ id="page41"></a>[pg 41]</span>
+
+ <p>In one of their festivals they make pilgrimages at night to
+ the graves of their friends, on which they place food and hang
+ lamps. It is said they believe their ancestors to come from
+ heaven to them on these occasions, and imagine that they return
+ again in small boats, to which they attach lanterns, and which
+ they place on the water at ebb-tide, on the evening of the last
+ day of the festival, and eagerly watch, out of sight. An old
+ fisherman, however, who was observed intently watching his
+ frail bark floating out to sea, explained, on being questioned,
+ that he whose lamp burnt longest caught most fish; and judging
+ from the old man's solemn manner there was no doubt he had
+ perfect faith in the truth of his statement.</p>
+
+ <p>However gross their superstitions may he, there is no doubt
+ that they affectionately revere the memory of their dead, and
+ treat them with quite as much respect as the most civilised
+ nation in Christendom.</p>
+
+ <p>In battle the Japanese always carry off the fallen.</p>
+
+ <p>At the bombardment of the Simono-seki forts, at the entrance
+ of the Suwo-Nada, or 'Inland Sea,' in September 1864, Prince
+ Choisiu's loss, according to one of his own officers, amounted
+ to upwards of 500 killed and wounded; but all had been removed
+ when the brigade of English, French, and Dutch, under the
+ command of Colonel Suther, C.B., Royal Marines, took possession
+ of the forts early next day. At the storming of a stockade
+ (which was pluckily defended) by two battalions of Royal
+ Marines and the light-armed companies of the British squadron,
+ the Japanese were noticed carrying away their dead and wounded,
+ and several were unfortunately shot while thus
+ employed.<a id="footnotetag6"
+ name="footnotetag6"></a><a href="#footnote6"><sup>6</sup></a></p>
+
+ <p>A few nights afterwards large fires were noticed in the
+ interior, which were said to be the funeral pyres of those who
+ had fallen in the defence of the forts and
+ stockade.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page42"
+ id="page42"></a>[pg 42]</span>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image038.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i38"
+ id="i38"><img width="321"
+ src="images/image038s.jpg"
+ alt="SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES" /></a>
+
+ <p>SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a
+ custom of Buddhist origin which is generally adopted by the
+ Japanese. They believe that shaving the head of the dead
+ propitiates the deities in their favour. It is also considered
+ to be an emblem of sanctity, and the bonzes, or priests, always
+ keep their heads clean-shaved. Even children intended for the
+ priesthood, as well as certain religious societies of both
+ sexes, are similarly distinguished. Odder-looking creatures
+ than these bald-headed specimens of humanity can hardly be
+ imagined.</p>
+
+ <p>The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a
+ specimen of the class of Japanese most prone to superstition.
+ The lantern he carries serves not only to light his way but to
+ advertise his wares: it also bears his name, no Japanese of the
+ lower orders being allowed to stroll about at night without a
+ lantern so distinguished.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter"
+ style="width:35%">
+ <a href="images/image037.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image037.jpg"
+ alt="Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. [Native Drawing.]" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page43"
+ id="page43"></a>[pg 43]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+ <h3>ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES.</h3>
+
+ <p>Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries
+ connecting it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or
+ 'Imperial High Road,' to which occasional reference has been
+ made.</p>
+
+ <p>Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of
+ more than ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care
+ bestowed upon it for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to
+ keep that portion of it which passes through his dominions in
+ repair), become a broad and well-graduated highway.</p>
+
+ <p>It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines,
+ cryptomerias, and other lofty trees; and small plantations of
+ the graceful bamboo are generally to be seen in the
+ neighbourhood of the roadside houses.</p>
+
+ <p>The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to
+ be observed rising one above another, in that wild
+ conglomeration peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the
+ Island of Nipon the snowy cone of Fusiyama is almost always
+ visible from the higher ground.</p>
+
+ <p>The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields
+ are sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the
+ ground permits. The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered
+ with rich crops of cereals, which are watered by natural or
+ artificial streams.</p>
+
+ <p>As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional
+ glimpses of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page44"
+ id="page44"></a>[pg 44]</span> sea meet the eye, often with
+ a series of headlands jutting one beyond another into it,
+ and distant islands dotting the horizon.</p>
+
+ <p>By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen;
+ and in their seasons, the large white lilies of the country,
+ hydrangeas, violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild
+ flowers.</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:35%">
+ <a href="images/image040.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image040.jpg"
+ alt="Carpenters at work. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Carpenters at work. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and
+ their hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims,
+ and a large portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the
+ Tokaido passes through most of the principal towns, the
+ traveller has frequent opportunities of observing the various
+ avocations of the people; for mechanics commonly work in front
+ of their doors, as shown in the woodcut; and in fine weather,
+ the sliding windows through which the Japanese enter their
+ houses are always drawn back, leaving the interior and its
+ occupants open to the road.</p><br clear="all" />
+
+ <p>The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the
+ wayside scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese
+ house. It will be noticed that the puppies in the foreground,
+ as well as the cat in the girl's arms, are very differently
+ delineated; but such animals are the especial stumbling-blocks
+ of the native artists, although they faithfully represent
+ birds, fishes, and reptiles.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image041.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i41"
+ id="i41"><img width="315"
+ src="images/image041s.jpg"
+ alt="" /></a>
+
+ <p>A BAKER'S SHOP</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys
+ (who, by the way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses
+ officially set apart for their use), for the mass of the people
+ to be seen on the Tokaido belong to the lower classes&mdash;the
+ aristocracy considering it beneath their dignity to travel for
+ pleasure, or to make
+ pilgrimages.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page45"
+ id="page45"></a>[pg 45]</span>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:30%">
+ <a href="images/image043.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image043.jpg"
+ alt="Tea-house Girl waiting. [Native Drawing.]" /></a>
+
+ <p>Tea-house Girl waiting. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly
+ to enjoy travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks.
+ It is true that the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down
+ upon your knees,' at the approach of one of their oligarchical
+ rulers, would be objectionable to Europeans; but the Japanese
+ are accustomed to this, and proceed with their journey after
+ half-an-hour's detention without being in any way put out by
+ it.</p>
+
+ <p>The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido
+ have a great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A
+ smiling welcome from the pretty waitresses employed at these
+ places may always be anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and,
+ however slight their requirements may be, they are certain to
+ be promptly and courteously attended to.</p>
+
+ <p>If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to
+ the tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along
+ the road, where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a
+ trifling cost.</p>
+
+ <p>Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are
+ much frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on
+ account of the beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph
+ opposite represents one of these parties, some of whom appear
+ to have been indulging too freely in saki. The fellow dancing
+ and waving the fan about is apparently addressing a love-song
+ to the lady opposite, whose husband is evidently desirous of
+ putting a stop to the flirtation.</p><br clear="all" />
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image042.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i42"
+ id="i42"><img width="314"
+ src="images/image042s.jpg"
+ alt="A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING" /></a>
+
+ <p>A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page46"
+ id="page46"></a>[pg 46]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+ <h3>THE SPY SYSTEM&mdash;THE BATH-HOUSE.</h3>
+
+ <p>There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to
+ English ideas, and so materially affecting the national
+ character, that it is necessary to call special attention to
+ them.</p>
+
+ <p>The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one
+ in the country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon,
+ or spiritual and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the
+ people.</p>
+
+ <p>All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every
+ governor of a town or district is associated with a
+ vice-governor, who is an 'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is
+ in turn spied upon by others. In this way a constant check is
+ kept upon the executive of the empire.</p>
+
+ <p>In addition to this acknowledged system, government
+ officials are frequently watched by secret spies, who, for
+ aught they know, may be some apparently trusty friend: so that,
+ even in the absence of their double, they can never be certain
+ that they are free from supervision.</p>
+
+ <p>In private life families spy on each other, for which
+ purpose they are divided into coteries of five households, the
+ heads of which are not only responsible for themselves, their
+ families and servants, but also for the other members of the
+ coterie; and any wrong-doing in one household must be
+ immediately reported to the proper authorities, to secure the
+ rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence.</p>
+
+ <p>To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried,
+ that a whole <span class="pagenum"><a name="page47"
+ id="page47"></a>[pg 47]</span> district sometimes suffers
+ for the offence of one of its residents. In the towns where
+ the streets are intersected with barriers a few hundred
+ yards apart, which are always closed at night, the people
+ living within these enclosures are often under the ban of
+ the officials for some irregularity which has occurred
+ within the limits. This constant espionage has, of course a
+ very pernicious effect upon the character of the people, as
+ it necessarily instils feelings of distrust and suspicion
+ among near neighbours. Yet it is marvellous how well their
+ social system works, and still more marvellous that the
+ officials, who in public life practise every kind of
+ deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts
+ deservedly so, distinguished in private life for their
+ truthfulness, candour, and hospitality.</p>
+
+ <p>The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner
+ in which the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All
+ Japanese perform their ablutions once or twice a-day; for which
+ purpose the poorer classes resort to the bath-houses, which are
+ generally open to the road or street.</p>
+
+ <p>Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one
+ of these is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement,
+ however, is more for convenience than in compliance with the
+ demands of modesty as is evidenced by the fact that a male
+ attendant is supplying water; and that his presence is plainly
+ a matter of perfect indifference to the women bathing, with
+ their children, in his immediate vicinity.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image044.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i44"
+ id="i44"><img width="321"
+ src="images/image044s.jpg"
+ alt="UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE" /></a>
+
+ <p>UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary
+ feature of Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There
+ men, women and children, perform their ablutions together, with
+ all the apparent innocency of our first parents. The
+ proceedings are conducted with perfect order and good-nature.
+ The steaming occupants make way for one another with ball-room
+ politeness; they laugh and chat over their tubs, discuss the
+ public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter occasionally to
+ the open door or window, to look at something which has
+ attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a
+ passing friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for
+ itself of their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in
+ their conduct.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page48"
+ id="page48"></a>[pg 48]</span>
+
+ <p>Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the
+ cleansing process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial
+ compliment, as regular bathing-men are employed for the
+ convenience of those who require such attention.</p>
+
+ <p>The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day
+ and the evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always
+ full.</p>
+
+ <div class="figleft"
+ style="width:30%">
+ <a href="images/image046.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image046.jpg"
+ alt="Going home from the Bath-house. [Native Drawing.]" />
+ </a>
+
+ <p>Going home from the Bath-house. [Native Drawing.]</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The <i>modus operandi</i> is very simple. The bather, after
+ duly depositing his straw shoes at the door and paying a few
+ cash for admittance, at once proceeds to disrobe himself,
+ placing his garments in an allotted compartment. He then
+ secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm water, and,
+ squatting down before it, lathers himself with a vegetable,
+ soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this stage
+ of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with
+ his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until
+ the remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be
+ possessor of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions.</p>
+
+ <p>It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must
+ have immoral effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil
+ consequences to it. They say that, being accustomed to it from
+ childhood, it only enables them to carry out those habits of
+ cleanliness which distinguish alike their persons and their
+ homes.</p>
+
+ <p>It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to
+ protect themselves from a second bath on returning from the
+ bath-houses to their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with
+ the umbrella (which bears his name and direction, by the way)
+ is an instance of
+ this.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page49"
+ id="page49"></a>[pg 49]</span>
+
+ <h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+ <h3>LOVE OF FLOWERS.</h3>
+
+ <p>One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises
+ all classes of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the
+ singularly rich and varied nature of the flora of the country,
+ aided by the magnificent climate, enables them to cultivate
+ with great success.</p>
+
+ <p>Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening;
+ and, however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted
+ flower or dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a
+ flowering branch of peach or cherry, placed in water.</p>
+
+ <p>Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and
+ grafting trees and plants, and of laying out miniature
+ landscapes, into which artificial mountains and valleys are
+ introduced, and very frequently lakes, studded with lilliputian
+ fern-covered islands, around which gold and silver fish may be
+ seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, taking refuge under
+ curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of the lotus,
+ which usually cover a portion of the surface&mdash;the only
+ thing out of proportion, probably, in the details of the
+ miniature landscape.</p>
+
+ <p>The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally
+ situated at the sides or back; and either open upon
+ flower-beds, grounds of the above description, or some kind of
+ enclosure, shaded by peach or pear-trees, trained
+ trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one solitary bough
+ twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its
+ unnatural contortions, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page50"
+ id="page50"></a>[pg 50]</span> the skill of the artist, the
+ other branches having been lopped off, or stunted, to
+ facilitate the growth and training of this one.</p>
+
+ <p>Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also
+ very common. Some are perfect <i>bijoux</i>. As a rule the
+ varied collections of flowers, planted in coloured china pots,
+ are arranged, with very agreeable effect, in tiers of shelves
+ round the sides, and on stands about the gardens.</p>
+
+ <p>Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great
+ variety of foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an
+ extent is this practised, that it is rare to find pure
+ botanical specimens in a Japanese garden. Plants are sometimes
+ cultivated for their berries as well as for their variegated
+ foliage. One very beautiful specimen, producing at the same
+ time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is believed by many to
+ have been obtained from cuttings of an exquisite shrub, which
+ is said to be the principal ornament of the regions of the
+ 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven.</p>
+
+ <p>Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at
+ the hands of Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are
+ artificially variegated; and others, on reaching maturity, have
+ a curious crumpled appearance. Again, the roots of certain
+ small species are frequently twisted into curious devices, and
+ hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect of these,
+ when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young fronds,
+ is very pretty.</p>
+
+ <p>Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and
+ is in great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily
+ paid for fine specimens.</p>
+
+ <p>The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain
+ their livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy
+ them not only to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to
+ their Lares and Penates&mdash;patron 'Kamis;' or to decorate
+ the tombs of departed relatives&mdash;a religious ceremony
+ which is strictly observed.</p>
+
+ <p>Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much
+ frequented by the people.</p>
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image047.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i47"
+ id="i47"><img width="321"
+ src="images/image047s.jpg"
+ alt="A FLOWER SHOW" /></a>
+
+ <p>A FLOWER SHOW</p>
+ </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page51"
+ id="page51"></a>[pg 51]</span>
+
+ <p>The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These
+ flowers are much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more
+ attention to size and brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The
+ stone in the centre is called a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in
+ praise of flowers is inscribed. This is a custom of very
+ ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on stones and rocks
+ are to be often seen in public places. The piece of ornamental
+ stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp,' which is very
+ common in gardens, and is much prized on account of the
+ historical associations connected with it.</p>
+
+ <div class="figright"
+ style="width:20%">
+ <a href="images/image048.jpg"
+ target="blank"><img width="100%"
+ src="images/image048.jpg"
+ alt="Girl with Flowers." /></a>
+
+ <p>Girl with Flowers.</p>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>The Japanese have many floral compliments. A very pretty one
+ is intimated by a present of seeds (especially if presented to
+ a foreigner returning to his own country), the purport
+ being&mdash;'Plant these seeds about your home, and, when you
+ see them growing, think of me.'</p>
+
+ <p>As an instance of the influence which flowers have upon the
+ Japanese character, the word 'hanna,' or flower, is commonly
+ used as a term of endearment: it is usually applied by parents
+ to a favourite daughter, or by a lover to his mistress; it is
+ also used to distinguish the bride and the bridegroom, as
+ 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral love-tokens (although they
+ only consist of a single sprig) are as much prized among the
+ Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, sometimes</p>
+
+ <div class="poem">
+ <div class="stanza">
+ <p class="i10">"Treasured in their fading,"</p>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+
+ <p>as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to
+ sentimental reflections.</p><br clear="all" />
+ <hr class="full" />
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote1"
+ name="footnote1"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag1">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese
+ letters is an exhortation to the same effect.</p>
+ </blockquote>
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote2"
+ name="footnote2"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag2">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>As an illustration of the spirit which characterises
+ British merchants in their intercourse with the Japanese,
+ it may be mentioned that a liberal subscription was
+ promptly got up for the re-establishment of these burnt-out
+ villagers; but, although the Japanese Government seemed
+ thoroughly to appreciate the kindly spirit in which it was
+ offered, national pride came in the way of its acceptance,
+ and the people were only induced to waive their objection
+ on its being urgently pressed upon them that the fire which
+ destroyed the Foreigners' Club was the cause of the
+ calamity.</p>
+ </blockquote>
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote3"
+ name="footnote3"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag3">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>A very interesting volume of translations of Japanese
+ Lyrical Odes has lately been published by F.V. Dickins,
+ Esq. M.B.: Smith, Elder, &amp; Co.</p>
+ </blockquote>
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote4"
+ name="footnote4"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag4">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>Sir Rutherford Alcock. See 'Capital of the Tycoon.'</p>
+ </blockquote>
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote5"
+ name="footnote5"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag5">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>In 1853 an English man-of-war visited this island, and
+ two of the officers were hoisted up in the basket for the
+ purpose of taking sights. One of them, who was my
+ informant, describes it as a walled-in barren island, with
+ no other mode of ingress or egress than that described.</p>
+ </blockquote>
+
+ <blockquote class="footnote">
+ <a id="footnote6"
+ name="footnote6"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b>
+ <a href="#footnotetag6">(return)</a>
+
+ <p>The whole of the operations, with the exception of the
+ storming of the stockade, which took place late in the day
+ after the French and Dutch had embarked, were under the
+ personal superintendence of the English and French
+ admirals.</p>
+ </blockquote>
+ <hr class="full" />
+
+ <div class="figcenter">
+ <a href="images/image001.jpg"
+ target="blank"
+ name="i1"
+ id="i1"><img width="300"
+ src="images/image001.jpg"
+ alt="Book Cover." /></a>
+ </div>
+<br />
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13051 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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