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diff --git a/old/13033-0.txt b/old/13033-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e86ac3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13033-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16128 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Expeditions into the Interior of +Eastern Australia, Vol 2 (of 2), by Thomas Mitchell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia, Vol 2 (of 2) + +Author: Thomas Mitchell + +Release Date: July 27, 2004 [EBook #13033] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EASTERN AUSTRALIA, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + + + + +THREE EXPEDITIONS + +INTO THE INTERIOR OF + +EASTERN AUSTRALIA; + +WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE RECENTLY EXPLORED REGION OF + +AUSTRALIA FELIX, + +AND OF THE PRESENT COLONY OF + +NEW SOUTH WALES: + +BY MAJOR T.L. MITCHELL, F.G.S. & M.R.G.S. + +SURVEYOR-GENERAL. + + + +SECOND EDITION, CAREFULLY REVISED. + +... + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOLUME 2. + + +LONDON: +T. & W. BOONE, NEW BOND STREET. + + +... + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME 2. + + +EXPEDITION TO THE RIVERS DARLING AND MURRAY, IN THE YEAR 1836. + + +CHAPTER 3.1. + +Route proposed. +Equipment. +List of the Men. +Agreement with a native guide. +Livestock. +Corrobory-dance of the natives. +Visit to the Limestone caves. +Osseous breccia. +Mount Granard, first point to be attained. +Halt on a dry creek. +Break a wheel. +Attempt to ascend Marga. +Snakes. +View from Marga. +Reach the Lachlan. +Find its channel dry. + + +CHAPTER 3.2. + +Continue the journey. +Acacia pendula. +Ascend Mount Amyot. +Field's Plains. +Cracks in the surface. +Ascend Mount Cunningham. +Mr. Oxley's tree. +Rain. +Goobang Creek. +Large fishes. +Heavy rain. +Ascend Mount Allan. +Natives from the Bogan. +Prophecy of a Coradje. +Poisoned waterhole. +Ascend Hurd's Peak. +Snake and bird. +Ride to Mount Granard. +Scarcity of water there. +View from the summit. +Encamp there. +Ascend Bolloon, a hill beyond the Lachlan. +Natives refuse to eat emu. +Native dog. +Kalingalungaguy. +Mr. Stapylton overtakes the party. +Of the plains in general. +Character of the Goobang and Bogan. +Cudjallagong or Regent's Lake. +Nearly dry. +Dead trees in it. +Rocks near it. +Trap and tuff. +Natives there. +Women. +Men. +Their account of the country lower down. +Oolawambiloa. +Gaiety of the natives. +Colour light. +Mr. Stapylton surveys the lake. +Campbell's Lake. +Piper obtains a gin. +Ascend Goulburn range. +View from the summit. +Warranary. +A new Correa. + + +CHAPTER 3.3. + +North arm of the Lachlan. +Quawys. +Wallangome. +Wild cattle. +Ascend Moriattu. +Leave the Lachlan to travel westward. +No water. +Natives from Warranary. +Course down the Lachlan resumed. +Extensive ride to the westward. +Night without water. +Continue westward, and south-west. +Sandhills. +Atriplex. +Deep cracks in the earth. +Search for the Lachlan. +Cross various dry channels. +Graves. +Second night without water. +Native tumulus. +Reedy swamp with dead trees. +Route of Mr. Oxley. +Dry bed of the Lachlan. +Find at length a large pool. +Food of the natives discovered. +Horses knock up. +Scenery on the Lachlan. +Character of the different kinds of trees. +Return to the party. +Dead body found in the water. +Ascend Burradorgang. +A rainy night without shelter. +A new guide. +Native dog. +Branches of the Lachlan. +A native camp. +Children. +A widow joins the party as guide. +Horse killed. +The Balyan root. +How gathered. +Reach the united channel of the Lachlan. +No water. +Natives' account of the rivers lower down. +Mr. Oxley's lowest camp on the Lachlan. +Slow growth of trees. +A tribe of natives come to us. +Mr. Oxley's bottle. +Waljeers Lake. +Trigonella suavissima. +Barney in disgrace. +A family of natives from the Murrumbidgee. +Inconvenient formality of natives meeting. +Rich tints on the surface. +Improved appearance of the river. +Inhabited tomb. +Dead trees among the reeds. +Visit some rising ground. +View northward. +Difficulties in finding either of the rivers or any water. +Search for the Murrumbidgee. +A night without water. +Heavy fall of rain. +Two men missing. +Reach the Murrumbidgee. +Natives on the opposite bank. +They swim across. +Afraid of the sheep. +Their reports about the junction of the Darling. +Search up the river for junction of Lachlan. +Course of the Murrumbidgee. +Tribe from Cudjallagong visits the camp in my absence. +Caught following my steps. +Piper questions them. + + +CHAPTER 3.4. + +The Murrumbidgee compared with other rivers. +Heaps of stones used in cooking. +High reeds on the riverbank. +Lake Weromba. +Native encampment. +Riverbanks of difficult access. +Best horse drowned. +Cross a country subject to inundations. +Traverse a barren region at some distance from the river. +Kangaroos there. +Another horse in the river. +Lagoons preferable to the river for watering cattle. +High wind, dangerous in a camp under trees. +Serious accident; a cartwheel passes over The Widow's child. +Graves of the natives. +Choose a position for the depot. +My horse killed by the kick of a mare. +Proceed to the Darling with a portion of the party. +Reach the Murray. +Its breadth at our camp. +Meet with a tribe. +Lake Benanee. +Discover the natives to be those last seen on the Darling. +Harassing night in their presence. +Piper alarmed. +Rockets fired to scare them away. +They again advance in the morning. +Men advance towards them holding up their firearms. +They retire, and we continue our journey. +Again followed by the natives. +Danger of the party. +Long march through a scrubby country. +Dismal prospect. +Night without water or grass. +Heavy rain. +Again make the Murray. +Strange natives visit the camp at dusk. + + +CHAPTER 3.5. + +New and remarkable shrub. +Darling tribe again. +Their dispersion by the party. +Cross a tract intersected by deep lagoons. +Huts over tombs. +Another division of the Darling tribe. +Barren sands and the Eucalyptus dumosa. +Plants which grow on the sand and bind it down. +Fish caught. +Aspect of the country to the northward. +Strange natives from beyond the Murray. +They decamp during the night. +Reach the Darling and surprise a numerous tribe of natives. +Piper and his gin explain. +Search for the junction with the Murray. +Return by night. +Followed by the natives. +Horses take fright. +Break loose and run back. +Narrow escape of some men from natives. +Failure of their intended attack. +Different modes of interment. +Reduced appearance of the Darling. +Desert character of the country. +Rainy morning. +Return of the party. +Surprise the females of the tribe. +Junction of the Darling and Murray. +Effect of alternate floods there. + + +CHAPTER 3.6. + +Return along the bank of the Murray. +Mount Lookout. +Appearance of rain. +Chance of being cut off from the depot by the river floods. +A savage man at home. +Tributaries of the Murray. +A storm in the night. +Traverse the land of lagoons before the floods come down. +Traces of many naked feet along our old track. +Camp of 400 natives. +Narrow escape from the floods of the river. +Piper overtakes two youths fishing in Lake Benanee. +Description of the lake. +Great rise in the waters of the Murray. +Security of the depot. +Surrounded by inundations. +Cross to it in a bark canoe made by Tommy Came-last. +Search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee and Murray. +Mr. Stapylton reaches the junction of the rivers. +Reception by the natives of the left bank. +Passage of the Murray. +Heavy rains set in. +Row up the Murray to the junction of the Murrumbidgee. +Commence the journey upwards, along the left bank. +Strange animal. +Picturesque scenery on the river. +Kangaroos numerous. +Country improves as we ascend the river. +A region of reeds. +The water inaccessible from soft and muddy banks. +Habits of our native guides. +Natives very shy. +Piper speaks to natives on the river. +Good land on the Murray. +Wood and water scarce. +Junction of two branches. +Swan Hill. + + +CHAPTER 3.7. + +Exploring through a fog. +Lakes. +Circular Lake of Boga. +Clear grassy hills. +Natives on the lake. +Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river. +Different character of two rivers. +Unfortunate result of Piper's interview with the natives of the lake. +Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia. +Different habits of the savage and civilized. +A range visible in the south. +Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river. +Water of the lakes brackish, or salt. +Natives fly at our approach. +Arrival in the dark, on the bank of a watercourse. +Dead saplings of ten years growth in the ponds. +Discovery of Mount Hope. +Enter a much better country. +Limestone. +Curious character of an original surface. +Native weirs for fish. +Their nets for catching ducks. +Remarkable character of the lakes. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion in search of the main stream. +My ride to Mount Hope. +White Anguillaria. +View from Mount Hope. +Return of Mr. Stapylton. + + +CHAPTER 3.8. + +The Party quits the Murray. +Pyramid Hill. +Beautiful country seen from it. +Discovery of the river Yarrayne. +A bridge made across it. +Covered by a sudden rise of the river. +Then cross it in boats. +Useful assistance of Piper. +Our female guide departs. +Enter a hilly country. +Ascend Barrabungalo. +Rainy weather. +Excursion southward. +The widow returns to the party. +Natives of Tarray. +Their description of the country. +Discover the Loddon. +The woods. +Cross a range. +Kangaroos numerous. +The earth becomes soft and impassable, even on the sides of hills. +Discover a noble range of mountains. +Cross another stream. +Another. +General character of the country. +Proposed excursion to the mountains. +Richardson's creek. +Cross a fine stream flowing in three separate channels. +A ridge of poor sandy soil. +Cross another stream. +Trap-hills and good soil. +Ascend the mountain. +Clouds cover it. +A night on the summit. +No fuel. +View from it at sunrise. +Descend with difficulty. +Men taken ill. +New plants found there. +Repose in the valley. +Night's rest. +Natives at the camp during my absence. + + +CHAPTER 3.9. + +Plains of stiff clay. +The Wimmera. +Difficult passage of its five branches. +Ascend Mount Zero. +Circular lake, brackish water. +The Wimmera in a united channel. +Lose this river. +Ascend Mount Arapiles. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion northward. +Salt lakes. +Green Hill lake. +Mitre lake. +Relinquish the pursuit of the Wimmera. +The party travels to the south-west. +Red lake. +Small lakes of fresh water. +White lake. +Basketwork of the natives. +Muddy state of the surface. +Mr. Stapylton's ride southward. +Disastrous encounter of one man with a native. +A tribe makes its appearance. +More lakes of brackish water. +Escape at last from the mud. +Encamp on a running stream. +Fine country. +Discovery of a good river. +Granitic soil. +Passage of the Glenelg. +Country well watered. +Pigeon ponds. +Soft soil again impedes the party. +Halt to repair the carts and harness. +Natives very shy. +Chetwynd rivulet. +Slow progress over the soft surface. +Excursion into the country before us. +Beautiful region discovered. +The party extricated with difficulty from the mud. + + +CHAPTER 3.10. + +Cross various rivulets. +Enter the valley of Nangeela. +Native female and child. +Encamp on the Glenelg. +Cross the Wannon. +Rifle range. +Mount Gambier first seen from it. +Sterile moors crossed by the party. +Natives numerous but not accessible. +Again arrive on the Glenelg. +Indifferent country on its banks. +Breadth and velocity of the river. +Encamp on a tributary. +Difficult passage. +The expedition brought to a stand in soft ground. +Excursion beyond. +Reach a fine point on the river. +The carts extricated. +The whole equipment reaches the river. +The boats launched on the Glenelg. +Mr. Stapylton left with a depot at Fort O'Hare. +Character of the river. +Ornithorynchus paradoxus. +Black swans. +Water brackish. +Isle of Bags. +Arrival at the seacoast. +Discovery bay. +Mouth of the Glenelg. +Waterholes dug in the beach. +Remarkable hollow. +Limestone cavern. +One fish caught in the Glenelg. +Stormy weather. +Return to the depot. +Difference in longitude. + + +CHAPTER 3.11. + +Leave the Glenelg and travel eastward. +Cross the Crawford. +Boggy character of its sources. +Recross the Rifle range. +Heavy timber the chief impediment. +Travelling also difficult from the softness of the ground. +Excursion southward to Portland Bay. +Mount Eckersley. +Cross the Fitzroy. +Cross the Surry. +Lady Julia Percy's Isle. +Beach of Portland Bay. +A vessel at anchor. +House and farming establishment there. +Whale fishery. +Excursion to Cape Nelson. +Mount Kincaid. +A whale chase. +Sagacity of the natives on the coast. +Mount Clay. +Return to the camp. +Still retarded by the soft soil. +Leave one of the boats, and reduce the size of the boat carriage. +Excursion to Mount Napier. +Cross some fine streams. +Natives very timid. +Crater of Mount Napier or Murroa. +View from the summit. +Return to the Camp. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion to the north-west. +The Shaw. +Conduct the carts along the highest ground. +Again ascend Murroa and partially clear the summit. +Mount Rouse. +Australian Pyrenees. +Swamps harder than the ground around them. +Again reach the good country. +Mounts Bainbrigge and Pierrepoint. +Mount Sturgeon. +Ascend Mount Abrupt. +View of the Grampians from the summit. +Victoria range and the Serra. +Mud again, and a broken axle. +Mr. Stapylton examines the country before us. +At length get through the soft region. +Cattle quite exhausted. +Determine to leave them in a depot to refresh while I proceed forward. +Specimens of natural history. +Situation of depot camp at Lake Repose. + + +CHAPTER 3.12. + +Parting of The Widow and her child. +We at length emerge on much firmer ground. +River Hopkins. +Mount Nicholson. +Cockajemmy salt lakes. +Natives ill disposed. +Singular weapon. +Treacherous concealment of a native. +Contents of a native's basket and store. +A tribe comes forward. +Fine country for colonisation. +Hollows in the downs. +Snakes numerous. +Native females. +Cattle tracks. +Ascend Mount Cole. +Enter on a granite country. +Many rivulets. +Mammeloid hills. +Lava, the surface rock. +Snakes eaten by the natives. +Ascend Mount Byng. +Rich grass. +Expedition pass. +Excursion towards Port Phillip. +Discover and cross the river Barnard. +Emus numerous and tame. +The river Campaspe. +Effects of a storm in the woods. +Ascend Mount Macedon. +Port Phillip dimly seen from it. +Return to the camp. +Continue our homeward journey. +Waterfall of Cobaw. +Singular country on the Barnard. +Cross the Campaspe. +An English razor found. +Ascend Mount Campbell. +Native beverage. +Valley of the Deegay. +Natives exchange baskets for axes. +They linger about our camp. +Effect of fireworks, etc. +Arrival at, and passage of, the Goulburn. +Fish caught. + + +CHAPTER 3.13. + +Continue through a level forest country. +Ascend a height near the camp, and obtain a sight of snowy summits + to the eastward. +Reach a swampy river. +A man drowned. +Pass through Futter's range. +Impeded by a swamp among reeds. +Junction of the rivers Ovens and King. +Ascend granitic ranges. +Lofty mass named Mount Aberdeen. +Reach the Murray. +The river very difficult of access. +A carriage track discovered. +Passage of the river. +Cattle. +Horses. +Party returning to meet Mr. Stapylton. +A creek terminating in a swamp. +Mount Trafalgar. +Rugged country still before us. +Provisions nearly exhausted. +Cattle tracks found. +At length reach a valley leading in the desired direction. +Cattle seen. +Obliged to kill one of our working bullocks. +By following the valley downwards, we arrive on the Murrumbidgee. +Write my despatch. +Piper meets his friends. +Native names of rivers. + + +CHAPTER 3.14. + +Agreeable travelling. +Appearance of the country on the Murrumbidgee. +Jugion Creek. +Brunonia abundant. +Yass plains. +The Gap, an inn. +Bredalbane plains. +Lake George. +Soil and rocks. +The Wollondilly. +Goulburn plains. +A garden. +Public works. +Shoalhaven river. +Limestone caverns there. +County of St. Vincent. +Upper Shoalhaven. +Carwary. +Vast subsidence on a mountain there. +Goulburn township. +Great road. +Towrang hill. +The Wollondilly. +Wild country through which it flows. +The Nattai. +Moyengully. +Arrive at the line of great road. +Convict workmen. +Berrima bridge. +Berrima. +Trap range. +Sandstone country. +The Illawarra. +Lupton's inn. +The Razorback. +Ford of the Nepean. +Campbelltown. +Liverpool. +Lansdowne bridge. +Arrive at Sydney. +General remarks on the character of the settled country. +Fires in the woods. +Necessity for cutting roads. +Proportion of good and bad land. +Description of Australia Felix. +Woods. +Harbours. +The Murray. +Mr. Stapylton's report. +The aboriginal natives. +Turandurey. +My mode of communicating with Mr. Stapylton. +Survey of the Murrumbidgee. +Meteorological journal. +Arrival of the exploring party at Sydney. +Piper. +The two Tommies. +Ballandella. +Character of the natives of the interior. +Language. +Habits of those of Van Diemen's Land the same. +Temporary huts. +Mode of climbing trees. +Remarkable customs. +Charmed stones. +Females excluded from superstitious rites. +Bandage or fillet around the temples. +Striking out the tooth. +Painting with red. +Raised scars on arms and breast. +Cutting themselves in mourning. +Authority of old men. +Native dogs. +Females carrying children. +Weapons. +Spear. +Woomera. +Boomerang. +Its probable origin. +Shield or Hieleman. +Skill in approaching the kangaroo. +Modes of cooking. +Opossum. +Singeing. +Vegetable food. +The shovel. +General observations. + + +CHAPTER 3.15. + +Geological specimens collected. +Connection between soil and rocks. +Limestone. +Granite. +Trap-rocks. +Sandstone. +Geological structure and physical outline. +Valleys of excavation. +Extent of that of the Cox. +Quantity of rock removed. +Valley of the Grose. +Wellington Valley. +Limestone caverns. +Description and view of the largest. +Of that containing osseous breccia. +First discovery of bones. +Small cavity and stalagmitic crust. +Teeth found in the floor. +A third cavern. +Breccia on the surface. +Similar caverns in other parts of the country. +At Buree. +At Molong. +Shattered state of the bones. +Important discoveries by Professor Owen. +Gigantic fossil kangaroos. +Macropus atlas. +Macropus titan. +Macropus indeterminate. +Genus Hypsiprymnus, new species, indeterminate. +Genus Phalangista. +Genus Phascolomys. +Ph. mitchellii, a new species. +New Genus Diprotodon. +Dasyurus laniarius, a new species. +General results of Professor Owen's researches. +Age of the breccia considered. +State of the caverns. +Traces of inundation. +Stalagmitic crust. +State of the bones. +Putrefaction had only commenced when first deposited. +Accompanying marks of disruption. +Earthy deposits. +These phenomena compared with other evidence of inundation. +Salt lakes in the interior. +Changes on the seacoast. +Proofs that the coast was once higher above the sea than it is at +present. +Proofs that it was once lower. +And of violent action of the sea. +At Wollongong. +Cape Solander. +Port Jackson. +Broken Bay. +Newcastle. +Tuggerah Beach. +Bass Strait. + +... + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME 2. + + +PLATE 22: CRATER OF MURROA, OR MOUNT NAPIER, IN AUSTRALIA FELIX +(DESCRIBED IN THE TEXT). +Major T.L. Mitchell del. A. Picken Lith. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the +Queen. + +CORROBORY-DANCE OF THE NATIVES, AS DESCRIBED IN THE TEXT. + +MOUNT MELVILLE (OF OXLEY), FROM MERUMBA. + +MOUNT CUNNINGHAM, OR BEERY BIRREE. + +NYORORONG FROM MOUNT CUNNINGHAM. + +OXLEY'S TREE ON THE LACHLAN (OR KALARE) RIVER. + +PLATE 23: Plyctolophus leadbeateri, COCKATOO OF THE INTERIOR. + +PLATE 24: PORTRAITS OF TURANDUREY (THE FEMALE GUIDE) AND HER CHILD +BALLANDELLA, WITH THE SCENERY ON THE LACHLAN (10TH OF MAY 1836). +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Foggo & G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to +Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLAN OF AN INHABITED TOMB. + +PLATE 25: PIPER WATCHING THE CART AT BENANEE. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. Waldeck Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +A NEW SHRUB, THE Eucarya murrayana (MIHI) AND YOUNG FRUIT. + +PLATE 26: THE RIVER MURRAY, AND DISPERSION OF NATIVES, 27TH MAY, 1836. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. J. Brandord & G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer +to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 27: Choeropus ecaudatus (OGILBY), A NEW AND SINGULAR ANIMAL. +Fore foot, natural size. +T.L.M. del. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 28: BACKWATER, OR FLOOD-BRANCH OF THE MURRAY, WITH THE SCENERY +COMMON ON ITS BANK. +Acacia exudans. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 29: Dipus mitchellii (OGILBY), A NEW ANIMAL RESEMBLING THE JERBOA. +T.L.M. del. A. Picken Lith. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. + +MOUNT HOPE FROM THE NORTH. + +PYRAMID HILL. + +PLATE 30: THE RIVER YARRAYNE, WITH THE SHEEP OF THE PARTY FIRST +APPROACHING IT. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLAN OF TEMPORARY BRIDGE ACROSS THE YARRAYNE. + +PLATE 31: MITRE ROCK AND LAKE, FROM MOUNT ARAPILES. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 32: PLAN OF HILLS BESIDE GREENHILL LAKE (INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA, +ENGRAVED FROM A MODEL). +Bate's Patent Anaglyptograph. Freebairn. +Published by T. & W. Boone. + +MOUNT ARAPILES FROM MITRE LAKE. + +PLATE 33: WESTERN EXTREMITY OF MOUNT ARAPILES. +Left: Casuarinae. Right: an altered Sandstone. Right foreground: Banksia. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +BARBED SPEARS OF THE NATIVES. + +PLATE 34: FEMALE AND CHILD OF AUSTRALIA FELIX. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. Waldeck Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 35: BOAT ON THE RIVER GLENELG. +Left foreground: Banksia. Middle distance: Limestone. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. + +YELLOW FLOWER ABUNDANT ON THE PLAINS OF AUSTRALIA FELIX. + +GENERAL VIEW OVER THE GRAMPIANS FROM THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT ABRUPT. +Left: Victoria Range. Right: Mount William distant 21 1/2 miles. + +MOUNT ABRUPT FROM THE SOUTH. +Williams. + +PLATE 36: Aquilla fucosa ? AUSTRALIAN EAGLE. PORTRAIT OF AN EAGLE THAT +HAD BEEN WINGED (NATURAL SIZE). +From Nature and on Stone by Major T.L. Mitchell. J. Graf Printer to Her +Majesty. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +MOUNT WILLIAM FROM MOUNT STAVELY. +Foreground: Forest Hills. Middle Distance: Plains. + +WEAPONS OF THE NATIVES. +Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. + +HILLS OF LAVA, OR MAMMELOID HILLS, FROM MOUNT GREENOCK. +Horizon: Mount Byng Pass. + +PORT PHILLIP, 50 MILES DISTANT, AS SEEN THROUGH A GLASS FROM MOUNT +MACEDON. +Left to right: B, River, Indented Head, A, Woody Hill. + +PLATE 37: COBAW WATERFALL, WITH NATIVES FISHING. +All granite. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 38: GENERAL VIEW OF THE SANDSTONE DISTRICTS, FROM THE SUMMIT OF +JELLORE. +Left to right: Bonnum Pic, Gnowogang, Valley of Cox River, King's +Tableland, King George's Mount, Mount Hay, Tomah. +On Zinc by Major Mitchell (a Page of his Field Book). Day & Haghe +Lithographers to the Queen. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone. + +PLATE 39: PORTRAIT OF MOYENGULLY, CHIEF OF NATTAI. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Foggo Lith. +Published by T. and W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 40: MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA, AND NATURAL LIMITS OF THE COLONY OF +NEW SOUTH WALES. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone. Engraved by J. Dower, Pentonville. + +THE BOOMERANG, A SINGULAR MISSILE. + +NARROW SHIELD, OR HIELEMAN. + +PLATE 41: SCENERY AROUND THE ENTRANCE OF THE LARGEST CAVERN IN THE +LIMESTONE AT WELLINGTON VALLEY. +T.L.M. del. A. Picken Lith. + +PLATE 42: GEOLOGICAL MAP OF WELLINGTON VALLEY. +From Nature and on Stone by Major T.L. Mitchell. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 43: INTERIOR OF THE LARGEST CAVERN AT WELLINGTON VALLEY. +Major T.L. Mitchell. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone. + +PLATE 44: VERTICAL SECTION AND GROUND-PLOT OF TWO CAVERNS AT WELLINGTON +VALLEY. +From Nature and on Stone by Major T.L. Mitchell. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 45: INTERIOR OF THE CAVERN CONTAINING OSSEOUS BRECCIA AT WELLINGTON +VALLEY. +Major T.L. Mitchell. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone. + +PLATE 46: ROCK OF BRECCIA FOUND ON THE SURFACE ABOVE THE LARGEST CAVERN +AT WELLINGTON VALLEY. +T.L.M. del. A. Picken Lith. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. + +PLATE 47: FOSSIL REMAINS AND RECENT SPECIMENS, EACH OF THE NATURAL SIZE: +FIGURE 1, BELONGING TO Macropus atlas, AND +FIGURE 2, TO THE LARGEST RECENT SPECIMEN. +FIGURES 3, 4, AND 5, TO Macropus titan. +FIGURE 6, THE INCISOR OF A FOSSIL KANGAROO. +FIGURE 7, THE INCISOR OF THE LARGEST NOW KNOWN. +FIGURE 8, FOSSIL LUMBAR VERTEBRA. +From Nature and on Stone by Major T.L. Mitchell. J. Graf Printer to Her +Majesty. + +PLATE 48: +FIGURES 1, 2, AND 3: FOSSIL REMAINS OF A NEW SPECIES OF HYPSIPRYMNUS. +FIGURES 4, 5, AND 6: OF Phascolomys mitchellii. +FIGURE 7: A SECTION OF THE TEETH OF THE SAME FOSSIL SPECIES OF WOMBAT. +From Nature and on Zinc by Major T.L. Mitchell. Day & Haghe Lithographers +to the Queen. +London, Published by T. & W. Boone. + +PLATE 49: +FIGURES 1 AND 2: FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE DIPROTODON. +FIGURES 3, 4, 5, 6, AND 7: FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE Dasyurus laniarius. + +PLATE 50: MARKS OF SUBSIDENCE IN AN INNER PORTION OF THE BRECCIA CAVERN. +Major T.L. Mitchell del. Scherf Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. +Published by T. & W. Boone, London. + +PLATE 51: +FIGURE 1: FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE RADIUS AND ULNA OF A KANGAROO. +FIGURE 2: OF THE FOOT OF A DASYURUS. +FIGURES 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, AND 11: VARIOUS TEETH OF ANIMALS +UNKNOWN. +ALL THESE DRAWINGS BEING OF THE NATURAL SIZE. +FIGURES 12 AND 13, REPRESENT, ON A REDUCED SCALE, THE LARGE BONE WHICH M. +CUVIER SUPPOSED TO HAVE BELONGED TO A YOUNG ELEPHANT. + +ROCKS IN BASS STRAIT: +1. PYRAMID ROCK BEARING EAST DISTANT 3 MILES. +2. ROCK OF GRANITE BEARING EAST BY NORTH. + +... + +(APPENDIX 2.1. + +VOCABULARY OF WORDS HAVING THE SAME MEANING IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF +AUSTRALIA. + +APPENDIX 2.2. + +METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT DURING THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW +SOUTH WALES IN 1836.) + +APPENDIX 2.3. + +EXTRACT FROM THE SYDNEY HERALD OF MAY 21, 1838. + +APPENDIX 2.4. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF POUNDS OF WOOL IMPORTED FROM NEW SOUTH WALES +AND FROM VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, DISTINGUISHING EACH YEAR. + +APPENDIX 2.5. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF SHIPS, AND THEIR TONNAGE, CLEARED OUT TO NEW +SOUTH WALES AND VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, DISTINGUISHING EACH +YEAR. + +APPENDIX 2.6. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF SHIPS, AND THEIR TONNAGE, REPORTED INWARDS +FROM NEW SOUTH WALES AND VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, +DISTINGUISHING EACH YEAR. + +... + + + +JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE RIVERS DARLING AND MURRAY, IN THE YEAR +1836. + + +CHAPTER 3.1. + +Route proposed. +Equipment. +List of the Men. +Agreement with a native guide. +Livestock. +Corrobory-dance of the natives. +Visit to the Limestone caves. +Osseous breccia. +Mount Granard, first point to be attained. +Halt on a dry creek. +Break a wheel. +Attempt to ascend Marga. +Snakes. +View from Marga. +Reach the Lachlan. +Find its channel dry. + +ROUTE PROPOSED. + +Towards the end of the year 1835 I was apprised that the governor of New +South Wales was desirous of having the survey of the Darling completed +with the least possible delay. His excellency proposed that I should +return for this purpose to the extreme point on the Darling where my last +journey terminated and that, after having traced the Darling into the +Murray, I should embark on the latter river and, passing the carts and +oxen to the left bank at the first convenient opportunity, proceed +upwards by water as far as practicable and regain the colony somewhere +about Yass Plains. + +EQUIPMENT. + +The preparations for this journey were made, as on the former occasion, +chiefly in the lumber-yard at Parramatta, and under the superintendence +of the same officer, Mr. Simpson. Much of the equipment used for the last +expedition was available for this occasion. The boats and boat-carriage +were as serviceable as ever, with the advantage of being better seasoned; +and we could now, having had so much experience, prepare with less +difficulty for such an undertaking. + +In consequence of a long-continued drought serviceable horses and +bullocks were at that time scarce, and could only be obtained at high +prices; but no expense was spared by the government in providing the +animals required. + +The party having preceded me by some weeks on the road, I at length +overtook it on the 15th of March in a valley near the Canobolas which I +had fixed as the place of rendezvous, and where, from the great +elevation, I hoped still to find some grass. How we were to proceed +however without water was the question I was frequently asked; and I was +informed at Bathurst that even the Lachlan was dried up. + +On the following day I organised the party, and armed the men. I +distributed to each a suit of new clothing; consisting of grey trousers +and a red woollen shirt, the latter article, when crossed by white +braces, giving the men somewhat of a military appearance. + +Their names and designation were as follows: + +LIST OF THE MEN. + +LIST OF THE PARTY PROCEEDING TO THE DARLING IN MARCH 1836.* + +(*Footnote. The men whose names are printed in uppercase had obtained +their freedom as a reward for past services in the interior. The +asterisks distinguish the names of men who had been with me on one or +both the former expeditions. Those to whose names the letter T is also +prefixed having previously obtained a ticket of leave releasing them from +a state of servitude. Each man was also furnished with a small case +containing six cartridges which he was ordered always to wear about his +waist.) + +COLUMN 1: NAMES. +COLUMN 2: OCCUPATION IN THE EXPLORING PARTY. +COLUMN 3: OCCASIONAL EMPLOYMENT. +COLUMN 4: ARMS AND ACCOUTREMENTS. + +Major T.L. Mitchell: Chief of the party : - : Rifle and pistols. +G.C. Stapylton, Esquire : Second in command : - : Carabine and pistol. +**ALEXANDER BURNETT : Overseer : Storekeeper : Carabine and pistol. +**ROBERT MUIRHEAD : Bullock-driver : Soldier and lance-corporal : Musket, +bayonet and pistol. +T*Charles Hammond : Bullock-driver : - : Musket, bayonet and pistol. +T*William Thomas : Bullock-driver : Butcher : Musket, bayonet and pistol. +Richard Lane : Bullock-driver : - : Carabine and pistol. +James McLellan : Bullock-driver : - : Musket, bayonet and pistol. +Charles Webb : Bullock-driver : - : Musket, bayonet and pistol. +T*John Johnston : Blacksmith : - : Carabine. +T Walter Blanchard : Blacksmith : Measurer : Carabine and pistol. +**WILLIAM WOODS : Horse carter : Sailor : Carabine and pistol. +*Charles King : Horse carter : Measurer : Musket, bayonet and pistol. +*John Gayton : Horse carter : Cook : Carabine. +John Drysdale : Medical attendant : Barometer-carrier : Carabine. +John Roach : Collector of birds : - : Pistol (fowling-piece). +John Richardson : Collector of plants : Shepherd : Two pistols. +**JOHN PALMER : Sailor : Sailmaker : Carabine and pistol. +John Douglas : Sailor : - : Carabine. +T**Joseph Jones : Shepherd : - : Carabine. +James Taylor : Groom : Trumpeter : Carabine and pistol. +Edward Pickering : Carpenter : Barometer-carrier : Carabine. +Archibald McKean : Carpenter : Barometer-carrier : Carabine. +James Field : Shoemaker : - : Carabine. +**Anthony Brown : Cook : - : Carabine and pistol. + +This was the army with which I was to traverse unexplored regions +peopled, as far as we knew, by hostile tribes. But I could depend upon a +great portion of the men, and amongst them were some who had been with me +on the two former expeditions and who, although they had obtained their +emancipation as the well merited reward of their past services in the +interior, were nevertheless willing to accompany me once more. I accepted +their services on obtaining a promise from the governor that if the +expedition was successful their conditional pardons might be converted +into absolute pardons, a boon on which even some wealthy men in the +colony would probably have set a high value. + +One of the most devoted of these followers was William Woods who, having +long toiled carrying my theodolite to the summits of the highest +mountains, was at length more comfortably situated than he had ever been +in his life before as overseer of a road party. This poor fellow +relinquished his place of authority over other men and in which he +received 1 shilling per diem, again put on the grey jacket, and set a +valuable example as the most willing of my followers, wherever drudgery +or difficulty were most discouraging. + +LIVESTOCK. + +Our cattle were lean but I took a greater number in consequence. The +pasturage was still meagre and scarcely any water remained on the face of +the earth. It was unusually low in the holes last year, but this season +very few indeed contained any. The equinox however was at hand, and I +could not suppose that it was never to rain again, however hopeless the +aspect of the country appeared at that time. + +AGREEMENT WITH A NATIVE GUIDE. + +In this camp of preparation I was visited by our old friends the natives; +and one who called himself John Piper and spoke English tolerably well +agreed to accompany me as far as I should go, provided he was allowed a +horse and was clothed, fed, etc.; all which I immediately agreed to. I +had not however forgotten Mr. Brown, and I reminded Burnett of that +native's desertion; but Burnett, who seemed to be on excellent terms with +Piper, assured me that after he should be some weeks' journey in the +interior dread of the savage natives would prevent him from leaving our +party, and so it turned out. + +But in breaking on our stock of provisions, we commenced with due regard +to their importance on an interior journey by so reducing the weight of +our steel-yard that a five months' stock should last nearly seven months. +This arrangement was however a secret known only to Burnett and myself. + +The plan of encampment was to be the same as on the former journey, only +that a greater number of carts stood in the line parallel to the +boat-carriage. + +March 17. + +I put the party in movement towards Buree and rode across the country on +our right with Piper. We found the earth parched and bare but, as we +bounded over hill and dale a fine cool breeze whispered through the open +forest, and felt most refreshing after the hot winds of Sydney. Dr. +Johnson's Obidah was not more free from care on the morning of his +journey than I was on this, the first morning of mine. It was also St. +Patrick's day, and in riding through the bush I had leisure to recall +past scenes and times connected with the anniversary. I remembered that +exactly on that morning, twenty-four years before, I marched down the +glacis of Elvas to the tune of St. Patrick's Day in the Morning as the +sun rose over the beleaguered towers of Badajoz. Now, without any of the +pride, pomp, and circumstance of glorious war, I was proceeding on a +service not very likely to be peaceful, for the natives here assured me +that the Myalls were coming up murry coola, i.e. very angry, to meet us. +At Buree I rejoined my friend Rankin who had accompanied me from Bathurst +to the camp, and Captain Raine who occupied this place with his cattle. A +hundred sheep and five fat oxen were to be furnished by this gentlemen to +complete my commissariat supplies. + +CORROBORY-DANCE OF THE NATIVES. + +In the evening the blacks, having assembled in some numbers, entertained +us with a corrobory, their universal and highly original dance. (See +Plate.) Like all the rest of the habits and customs of this singular race +of wild men, the corrobory is peculiar and, from its uniformity on every +shore, a very striking feature in their character. The dance always takes +place at night, by the light of blazing boughs, and to time beaten on +stretched skins, accompanied by a song.* The dancers paint themselves +white, and in such remarkably varied ways that no two individuals are at +all alike. Darkness seems essential to the effect of the whole; and the +painted figures coming forward in mystic order from the obscurity of the +background, while the singers and beaters of time are invisible, have a +highly theatrical effect. Each dance seems most tastefully progressive; +the movement being at first slow, and introduced by two persons +displaying graceful motions both of arms and legs, others one by one join +in, each imperceptibly warming into the truly savage attitude of the +corrobory jump; the legs then stride to the utmost, the head is turned +over one shoulder, the eyes glare and are fixed with savage energy all in +one direction, the arms also are raised and inclined towards the head, +the hands usually grasping waddies, boomerangs, or other warlike weapons. +The jump now keeps time with each beat, the dancers at every movement +taking six inches to one side, all being in a connected line, led by the +first. The line however is sometimes doubled or tripled according to +space and numbers; and this gives great effect, for when the front line +jumps to the LEFT, the second jumps to the RIGHT, the third to the LEFT +again, and so on; until the action acquires due intensity, when all +simultaneously and suddenly stop. The excitement which this dance +produces in the savage is very remarkable. However listless the +individual may be, laying perhaps, as usual, half asleep; set him to this +dance, and he is fired with sudden energy, and every nerve is strung to +such a degree that he is no longer to be recognised as the same person +until he ceases to dance, and comes to you again. There can be little +doubt that the corrobory is the medium through which the delights of +poetry are enjoyed, in a limited degree, even by these primitive savages +of New Holland. + +(*Footnote. To this end they stretch a skin very tight over the knees, +and thus may be said to use the tympanum in its rudest form, this being +the only instance of a musical instrument that I have seen among them. +Burder says: "By the timbrels which Miriam and the other women played +upon when dancing, we are to understand the tympanum of the ancient +Greeks and Romans, which instrument still bears in the East the name that +it is in Hebrew, namely, doff or diff, whence is derived the Spanish +adufe, the name of the Biscayan tabor. Niebuhr describes this instrument +in his Travels Part 1 page 181. It is a broad hoop, with a skin stretched +over it; on the edge there are generally thin round plates of metal, +which also make some noise when this instrument is held up in one hand +and struck with the fingers of the other hand. Probably no musical +instrument is so common in Turkey as this; for when the women dance in +the harem the time is always beat on this instrument. We find the same +instrument on all the monuments in the hands of the Bacchante. It is also +common among the negroes of the Gold Coast and Slave Coast." Oriental +Customs Volume 1.) + +VISIT TO THE LIMESTONE CAVES. + +March 18. + +As it was necessary to grind some wheat with hand-mills to make up our +supply of flour, I was obliged to remain a day at Buree; and I therefore +determined on a visit to the limestone caves, by no means the least +remarkable feature in that country. The whole district consists of trap +and limestone, the former appearing in ridges, which belong to the lofty +mass of Canobolas. The limestone occurs chiefly in the sides of valleys +in different places, and contains probably many unexplored caves. The +orifices are small fissures in the rock, and they have escaped the +attention of the white people who have hitherto wandered there. I had +long been anxious to extend my researches for fossil bones among these +caves, having discovered during a cursory visit to them some years before +that many interesting remains of the early races of animals in Australia +were to be found in the deep crevices and caverns of the limestone rock. +How they got there was a question which had often puzzled me; but having +at length arrived at some conclusions on the subject, I was now desirous +to ascertain, by a more extensive examination of the limestone country, +whether the caves containing the osseous breccia presented here similar +characteristics to those I had observed in Wellington Valley. + +OSSEOUS BRECCIA. + +The first limestone we examined had no crevices sufficiently large to +admit our bodies; but on riding five miles southward to Oakey creek we +found a low ridge extending some miles on its left bank which promised +many openings. We soon found one which I considered to be of the right +sort, namely a perpendicular crevice with red tuff about the sides. Being +provided with candles and ropes we descended perpendicularly first, about +six fathoms to one stage, then obliquely, about half as far to a sort of +floor of red earth; Mr. Rankin, although a large man, always leading the +way into the smallest openings. By these means and by crawling through +narrow crevices we penetrated to several recesses, until Mr. Rankin found +some masses of osseous breccia beneath the limestone rock but so wedged +in that they could be extracted only by digging. Unlike the same red +substance at Wellington Valley where it was nearly as hard as the +limestone, the red calcareous tuff found here was so loose that the mass +of bones was easily detached from it; but none of them were perfect, +except one or two vertebrae of a very large species of kangaroo. Pursuing +this lode of osseous earth we traced it to several other recesses and in +the lower side of an indurated mass (the upper part having been the floor +of our first landing place) we found two imperfect skulls of Dasyuri, the +teeth being however very well preserved. This was, doubtless, an +unvisited cave; for the natives have an instinctive or superstitious +dread of all such places, and it is not therefore probable that man had +ever before visited that cavern. With all our ropes it cost some of us +trouble to get out of it, after passing two hours in candle-light. It may +thus be imagined what a vast field for such interesting researches +remains still unexplored in that district where limestone occurs in such +abundance. + +The objects of my journey did not admit of further indulgence in the +pursuit at that time; and I was content with drawing the attention of one +of the party, a young gentleman residing in the neighbourhood, to it, in +hopes he might discover some bones of importance.* + +(*Footnote. See a further account of these caves and some others in +Chapter 3.15 below.) + +MOUNT GRANARD, FIRST POINT TO BE ATTAINED. + +March 19. + +Our stores being completed we proceeded along the course of the little +rivulet of Buree, towards the Lachlan. My first object was to gain Mount +Granard, described by Mr. Oxley as the most elevated pic of a very high +range, and laid down on his map to the westward of where the Lachlan +takes a remarkable turn from its general direction towards the low +country more to the southward. I had long thought that it might be +possible to ascertain from this hill whether any range extended westward +of sufficient magnitude to separate the basins of the Murray and the +Darling. I wished to visit it last year, but the loss of Mr. Cunningham, +the consequent delay of the party, and the adverse nature of my +instructions in regard to my own views, together prevented me. I then saw +that the hills along the line I was now about to follow were favourable +for triangulation; but the greater certainty of finding water in a large +river like the Lachlan was my chief inducement for now moving towards its +banks, as the season was of such unusual drought. On this day's journey I +took for my guidance the bearing of a line drawn on the map from Buree, +as fixed by my former survey, to the mouth of Byrne's creek, as laid down +by Mr. Oxley; and which I supposed to be the same as that which descends +from Buree. + +HALT ON A DRY CREEK. + +The line guided me tolerably well to where I encamped that night. This +was on a fine-looking plain, within sight of the wooded banks of the +creek; but, on examining the bed of the latter, I could find no water, +although I followed it two miles down. There I arrived at a cattle +station named Toogang, where there was water. It was nothing to the old +hands of the Darling to go only TWO miles for water. We suffered no +inconvenience from this; but it was deplorable to see the bed of what +must in some seasons be a fine little stream so completely dry and dusty. +This day we met with a new species of Psoralea.* At the camp I +ascertained the magnetic variation to be 9 degrees 10 minutes 15 seconds +East, by an observation of the star Beta Centauri. + +(*Footnote. A genus chiefly inhabiting the Cape of Good Hope, India, the +Levant and North America, of which no species have before been published +from Australia. I was subsequently fortunate enough to discover two more +species of this genus; which with one as yet unpublished, found by Mr. +Allan Cunningham in 1818 in the rocky islands of Dampier's Archipelago on +the north-west coast, makes the number inhabiting Australia to be 4: all +of which are remarkable for their resemblance to the North American form +of the genus. The species we observed on this occasion was a small +spreading herbaceous plant. P. patens, Lindley manuscripts; herbacea, +pubescens, foliis pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis dentatis punctatis +lateralibus oblongis obtusis intermedio ovato obtuso basi cuneato, racemo +pedunculato laxo multifloro foliis multo longiore, bracteis subrotundis +striatis obscure multipunctatis, ramis divaricatis.) + +March 20. + +We proceeded, crossing the channel near the cattle station where I learnt +that it was joined immediately below by that which I had named King's +creek on my last journey; also that water was abundant in it below the +junction. Some natives joined us and Piper prevailed on one of them to be +our guide, as far as he knew the country. The use of such a guide in +following an unexplored watercourse is that bad places for the carts may +be avoided, and the doubles of the stream cut off by the easiest routes. + +BREAK A WHEEL. + +In crossing a gully which entered the creek near another station, called +Chilberengaba, we broke a wheel, and though we had travelled only about +seven miles we were obliged to encamp, and remain until the carpenter and +the smith could repair it. + +ATTEMPT TO ASCEND MARGA. + +In the meantime I set out with the native guide for the summit of Marga, +which proved to be one of my old fixed points. It was about seven miles +south-west of our camp; but after a most fatiguing ascent of two steep +and rocky ridges, during great heat, I was obliged to return without +reaching Marga. At the cattle station we heard of a bullock which had +been left by us in an exhausted state during our last expedition; and we +succeeded in bringing it in, and in laying the yoke on its neck for +another visit to the banks of the Darling; it was fitter than any other +of our working bullocks. I added a second species of Psoralea to that +discovered yesterday, a small graceful plant with racemes of purplish +minute flowers, elevated far above the leaves, and on slender stalks so +tough as to be broken only with some difficulty.* + +(*Footnote. P. tenax, Lindley manuscripts; herbacea, depressa, perennis, +glabra, foliis glandulosis palmatim 5-foliolatis, foliolis linearibus vel +lineari-oblongis obtusis, racemis cylindraceis longissime pedunculatis +erectis, leguminibus ovatis scabris glabris.) + +March 21. + +According to arrangements made with Captain King and Mr. Dunlop, the +King's astronomer at the Parramatta observatory, I halted the party this +day in order to make hourly observations of the barometer, thermometer, +the sky, etc. This plan had been strongly recommended by Sir John +Herschel; and for our present purposes it was most desirable in order +that we might ascertain how far the fluctuations of the atmosphere in two +places so distant as Parramatta and Byrne's creek corresponded in these +simultaneous observations. During our last journey some discrepancies in +the heights determined by the barometer on the Darling led to a suspicion +that the fluctuations at such great distances, in situations so +dissimilar, might vary considerably; and this was now to be ascertained. + +THE PARTY IMPEDED BY ROCKS. + +March 22. + +We continued our journey along the left bank of the creek, but with +considerable difficulty and delay occasioned by the projection of the +rocky escarpment of the above-mentioned extremities of Mount Marga; so +that we had to break away masses of rock and move the carts one by one, +all hands assisting. We at length gained a pleasant tract of land on +which the grass was green and luxuriant in consequence of some partial +rain; and on this place I encamped with the intention of next day +ascending Marga. In the creek we found ponds, deep and clear like canals; +their borders being reedy and their margins green. In these ponds the +natives speared several fishes which had however a muddy flavour. Among +them was one, apparently the eel-fish, caught during my first expedition +in the Namoi and upper Darling.* This circumstance was rather in favour +of the supposition that the streams unite; but still the fish seemed +somewhat different. + +(*Footnote. Plotosus tandanus see Volume 1.) + +SNAKES. + +On this day's journey we saw several large snakes; one, large and black, +was shot while swimming in a pond in the creek; the others were of that +kind named, from the beautifully variegated skin, the carpet snake. The +natives considered the latter very fierce and dangerous, saying it never +ran away but always faced or pursued them. It had in fact the flat broad +head and narrow neck which in general characterise the most venomous +snakes, also large fangs hooked inwards, which the natives particularly +pointed out. It had also, near the tail, two articulations with something +like a toe and joint on each, such as I had not observed before in any +other kind of snake. A smaller one of the same kind attacked one of the +party, and also a native, but the former shook it from his clothes, it +then fixed its teeth in the skin of the native who detached it with +difficulty; but as no blood came from the bite he seemed to care little +about it. The native name of this place was Cuenbla. + +VIEW FROM MARGA. + +March 23. + +I set off, accompanied by my black guide mounted, for the top of Marga, +and we reached it this time by a route in which the native displayed the +usual skill of his race. Certainly I never ascended a hill of more +perplexing features, all these heights being also of extremely difficult +access, very steep and extending in the direction of 10 and 12 degrees +East of North. They consist of the sharp edges of inclined strata of hard +purple-coloured clay-slate. I was however rewarded for the fatigues this +hill had cost me, on two different days, not with a fine view, for the +summit was too woody for that, but with a sight of some important points +determined during my late journey; and others which I had then observed +only from the Canobolas but which I was now enabled to fix by angles +observed from this station. The most important point visible besides the +Canobolas was Mount Lachlan, by means of which I determined the true +situation of Marga and the neighbouring hill Nangar; which is rather +higher but more wooded, and 2 1/2 miles distant towards the south-east. +These two form the summits of an isolated mountain mass on the left bank +of Byrne's creek, the top of Marga being about 1000 feet above our camp +on its banks. I drew outlines (according to my usual custom) of all the +hills on the horizon before us, and took angles on them with the +theodolite. Descending by a shorter route I reached the camp in time to +protract my angles, whereby I ascertained to my great satisfaction that +both Marga and Nangar had been truly fixed from the Canobolas, as well as +other points observed in my former journey, the accuracy of which, by a +good angle with Mount Lachlan, I was thus enabled to prove without going +out of my way, besides establishing there a good base for extending the +survey southward. + +March 24. + +Our guide was now joined by some older natives, and one of them had been +examining the country ahead, being anxious about the safe passage of our +carts. His reconnaissance had not been made in vain, for he led us to an +easy, open pass through a range of which we had heard much from stockmen +as likely to trouble us because, as they said, its rocky extremities +overhung the creek. We crossed it with ease however, guided by the +native. It consisted of granite and evidently belonged geologically to +the ridge traversed by us on the second day after leaving Buree during +our last journey. On the range, green pine trees (callitris) and a +luxuriant crop of grass covering the adjacent country, multitudes of fat +cattle were to be seen on all sides. I had heard that, after crossing the +burnt up surface of the colony, I should see green pastures here, beyond +its limits. + +CROSS BYRNE'S CREEK. + +We crossed Byrne's creek, near a cattle station called Lagoura, and after +keeping its banks for four miles further (having for that distance +granitic hills on our right) we finally quitted it, and passed over a +grassy plain of the same kind of soil and character as those extensive +level tracts seen during our last journey but having, what seemed +singular to our unaccustomed sight, a coating of green herbage upon it. + +NEW PLANTS. + +In our progress I found no fewer than three new species of the pretty +genus Trichinium;* a small species of Sida before undiscovered, with +minute yellow flowers,** and also a fine-looking acacia with falcate +leaves, singularly white or rather silvery, and with drooping graceful +branches.*** + +(*Footnote. + +1. Tr. alopecuroideum, Lindley manuscripts; caule ramoso glabro, foliis +lanceolatis glabris subtus scabriusculis, spicis cylindraceis elongatis, +bracteis rotundatis, calycibus herbaceis sursum calvis acutis, rachi +pilosa, cyatho staminum dentato. + +2. Tr. parviflorum, Lindley manuscripts; foliis ovatis acutis petiolatis +subtus et caule furfuraceo-tomentosis, spicis gracilibus elongatis, +bracteis acuminatis scariosis, calycibus lanatis, rachi lanata, +staminibus inaequalibus distinctis. + +3. Tr. sessilifolium, Lindley manuscripts; foliis oblongis obtusis +sessilibus et caule furfuraceo-tomentosis, spicis oblongis, bracteis +rotundatis lanatis, calycibus longe tubulosis lanatis sursum pilosis, +rachi tomentosa, staminibus inaequalibus distinctis.) + +(**Footnote. S. corrugata, Lindley manuscripts; incana, prostrata, +pusilla, foliis subrotundis angulatis cordatis palminerviis serratis, +pedunculis 2-3 filiformibus petiolis longioribus, fructu disciformi +corrugato, coccis monospermis commissuris muricatis.) + +(***Footnote. This proved to be a very distinct, undescribed species. A. +leucophylla, Lindley manuscripts; gracilis, ramulis filiformibus +angulatis albido-sericeis, phyllodiis lineari-lanceolatis falcatis apice +uncinatis obscure 2-nerviis appresse et densissime sericeis: margine +superiore basi subglanduloso, racemis umbellatis axillaribus phyllodio +multo brevioribus.) + +REACH THE LACHLAN. + +Travelling four miles more across level forest land, we reached the banks +of the Lachlan at Waagan,* a cattle station a mile and a half below the +junction of Byrne's creek of Oxley, which we had just traced in its +course from Buree. + +(*Footnote. Waagan means a crow in the native language.) + +FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY. + +I beheld in the Lachlan all the features of the Darling, but on a +somewhat smaller scale. The same sort of large gumtrees, similar steep, +soft, muddy banks; and, even in this place, a margin with an outer bank. +But its waters were gone, except in a few small ponds in the very deepest +parts of its bed. Such was now the state of that river down which my +predecessor's boats had floated. I had during the last winter drawn my +whaleboats 1600 miles overland without finding a river where I could use +them; whereas Mr. Oxley had twice retired by nearly the same routes, and +in the same season of the year, from supposed inland seas! + + +CHAPTER 3.2. + +Continue the journey. +Acacia pendula. +Ascend Mount Amyot. +Field's Plains. +Cracks in the surface. +Ascend Mount Cunningham. +Mr. Oxley's tree. +Rain. +Goobang Creek. +Large fishes. +Heavy rain. +Ascend Mount Allan. +Natives from the Bogan. +Prophecy of a Coradje. +Poisoned waterhole. +Ascend Hurd's Peak. +Snake and bird. +Ride to Mount Granard. +Scarcity of water there. +View from the summit. +Encamp there. +Ascend Bolloon, a hill beyond the Lachlan. +Natives refuse to eat emu. +Native dog. +Kalingalungaguy. +Mr. Stapylton overtakes the party. +Of the plains in general. +Character of the Goobang and Bogan. +Cudjallagong or Regent's Lake. +Nearly dry. +Dead trees in it. +Rocks near it. +Trap and tuff. +Natives there. +Women. +Men. +Their account of the country lower down. +Oolawambiloa. +Gaiety of the natives. +Colour light. +Mr. Stapylton surveys the lake. +Campbell's Lake. +Piper obtains a gin. +Ascend Goulburn range. +View from the summit. +Warranary. +A new Correa. + +CONTINUE THE JOURNEY. + +March 25. + +Following the direction of the general course of the Lachlan as laid down +by Mr. Oxley we crossed a fine tract of open forest land, and at the +distance of five miles arrived at a dry reach. Soon after we passed +Billabugan, a cattle station on the river where the dry branch joined it; +and at three miles further we traversed the southern skirts of a plain, +and finally made a bend of the Lachlan on which we encamped in latitude +33 degrees 24 minutes 28 seconds South. In the course of this day's +journey we discovered a bush resembling the European dwarf elder but with +yellow flowers, and fruit with scarcely any pulp.* + +(*Footnote. This proves to be a new genus of Caprifoliaceae, paragraph +mark Sambuceae. Tripetelus australasicus, Lindley manuscripts (tripetelos +having 3 leaves; the calyx has 3 sepals, the corolla 3 petals, the +stamens are 3, and the carpels are also 3). Calyx superus tridentatus. +Corolla rotata, tripartita, lutea, laciniis concavis conniventibus. +Antherae tres, fauce sessiles. Ovarium 3-loculare; ovulis solitariis +pendulis; stigmata 3, sessilia. Fructus subexsuccus, 3-queter, 3-pyrenus, +putamine chartaceo. Caulis herbaceus. Folia opposita, glabra, pinnata, +2-juga cum impari, laciniis lanceolatis acuminatis serratis; glandulis 2 +verruciformibus loco stipularum. Flores laxe paniculati.) + +Acacia pendula. + +March 26. + +This day at five miles further we ascended some undulating ground on +which the acacias of the interior grew. We found the same ridged and wavy +surface with the Acacia pendula and the pigeons which usually abound +about such parts of the country. Here we found also a singular species of +Jasmine, forming an upright bush not unlike a Vitex, with short axillary +panicles of white flowers. It proved to be J. lineare, R. Br. We soon +after came upon the borders of the great plain of Gullerong, which +extends about eight miles from east to west, and three northward from a +branch of the river, then quite dry. These I believe were the +Solway-flats of Mr. Oxley. We turned from them late in the afternoon, at +the suggestion of a native wearing a brass-plate like a bottle label, and +on which was engraven Billy Hawthorne. We succeeded in reaching a bend of +the river containing water only after travelling 18 1/4 miles; and in +latitude 33 degrees 23 minutes 21 seconds South. + +March 27. + +This day being Sunday I halted; especially as the cattle had made an +unusually long journey the day before. I wished to take sights for the +purpose of ascertaining the rate of my chronometer, and to lay down my +surveys. I found that Mr. Oxley's points on this river were much too far +to the westward; a circumstance to be expected as his survey could not, +at that early age of the colony, be connected with Parramatta by actual +measurement; as mine was. Our latitudes however agreed very exactly. + +ASCEND MOUNT AMYOT. + +March 28. + +Continued our journey and, at only a mile and a half from our camp, I was +surprised to find myself at the foot of Mount Amyot, better known to +stockmen by its native name of Camerberdang. I gave the party a bearing +or distant object to advance upon; and I lost no time in ascending the +hill, followed by Woods with my theodolite. From its crest, low as it +was, I still recognised the Canobolas and ascertained from my drawings +formerly made there that even on this hill (Mount Amyot) I had taken an +angle from their summit last season. It was valuable now, enabling me to +determine the true place of the hill from which I was to extend my angles +further westward. I easily recognised Marga and Nangar, and a very useful +and remarkable point of my former survey to the northward of those hills, +also several still more conspicuous ones in the country beyond the +Lachlan. + +FIELD'S PLAINS. + +To the westward I beheld the view etched in Mr. Oxley's book as Field's +Plains; and what was of much more importance to me then, Mounts +Cunningham, Melville, Allan, etc. etc. on all which, as far as I could, I +took angles, and then descending, rejoined the party about six miles on. +I met at the foot of this hill a colonist, a native of the country.* He +said he had been seventy miles down the river in search of a run for his +cattle; but had found none; and he assured me that, without the aid of +the blacks who were with him on horseback, he could not have obtained +water. + +(*Footnote. Mr. James Collits of Mount York.) + +Mount Amyot had the appearance of granite from the plains, but I found +that it consisted of the ferruginous sandstone. It is the southern +extremity of a long ridge elevated not more than 200 feet above the +plains at its base. We encamped at a bend of the river, on the border of +a small plain named Merumba in latitude 33 degrees 19 minutes 16 seconds +South. Variation 8 degrees 54 minutes 15 seconds East. + +We were here disturbed by herds of cattle running towards our spare +bullocks and mixing with them and the horses. In no district have I seen +cattle so numerous as all along the Lachlan; and notwithstanding the very +dry season, they were nearly all in good condition. We found this day, +near the river bed, a new herbaceous indigo with white flowers and pods +like those of the prickly liquorice (Glycyrrhiza echinata).* + +(*Footnote. I. acantho carpa, Lindley manuscripts; caule herbaceo erecto +ramisque angulatis scabriusculis, foliis pinnatis 5-jugis +viscido-pubescentibus; foliolis lineari-lanceolatis mucronulatis margine +scabris, racemis folio aequalibus, leguminibus subrotundo-ovalibus +compressis mucronatis echinatis monospermis.) + +March 29. + +Our next point was Mount Cunningham (Beery birree of the natives) and we +travelled towards it along the margin of Field's Plains as the angles of +the river allowed. + +CRACKS IN THE SURFACE. + +This was our straightest course, but we had to keep along the riverbank +for another reason. The plains were full of deep cracks and holes so that +the cart wheels more than once sunk into them, and thus detained us for +nearly an hour. A sagacious black advised us to keep near the riverbank, +and we found the ground better. We encamped at half-past two o'clock, +after a journey of ten miles; and I immediately set out, accompanied by a +native and a man carrying my theodolite, both on horseback, for the +highest or northern point of Mount Cunningham (a). The distance was full +five miles; yet we could not proceed direct on horseback, the scorched +plains being full of deep, wide cracks; and we were therefore compelled +to take a circuitous route nearer the river. + +ASCEND MOUNT CUNNINGHAM. + +There our guide called up three savage-looking natives with spears, whom +he described to be the natives of the hill, and they accompanied us to +the top. With some difficulty we led our horses near the crest, our new +friends always keeping the vantage ground of us, apparently from +apprehension. At length I planted my theodolite on the highest part of +the summit which commanded a fine view of the western horizon; and from +the mouths of my sable guides I obtained the native names, in all their +purity, of the various hills in sight. The most distant, named Bolloon, +were said to be near the great lake Cudjallagong--no doubt Regent's Lake +of Oxley--and a peak they called Tolga I took to be Hurd's Peak of the +same traveller. + +NYORORONG. + +Still I saw nothing on the horizon in the direction of his Mount Granard, +and in no other any hill of magnitude, except in the quarter whence I +came, where I still discerned my old friends Marga and Nangar, with +Nyororong and Berabidjal, high hills more to the southward. + +Mount Cunningham consists of ferruginous sandstone. The sun had reached +the horizon before I left the summit, which I did not until I had +obtained an angle on every visible point. We arrived at the camp soon +after seven o'clock. Latitude by an observation of Cor Leonis 33 degrees +15 minutes 27 seconds South. + +MR. OXLEY'S TREE. + +March 30. + +I ascertained accidentally this morning that we were abreast of the spot +where Mr. Oxley left the Lachlan and proceeded southward. This I learnt +from a marked tree which a native pointed out to me distant about 250 +yards south from our camp, on the opposite side of a branch of the river. +On this tree were still legible the names of Mr. Oxley and Mr. Evans; and +although the inscription had been there nineteen years the tree seemed +still in full vigour; nor could its girth have altered much, judging from +the letters which were still as sharp as when first cut, only the bark +having overgrown part of them had been recently cleared away a little as +if to render the letters more legible. I endeavoured to preserve still +longer an inscription which had withstood the fires of the bush and the +tomahawks of the natives for such a length of time by making a drawing of +it as it then appeared. + +By Mr. Oxley's journal we learn that where the river formed two branches +he, on the 17th of May, 1817, hauled up his boats, and on the following +day commenced his intended journey towards the south-east. But our +latitudes also assisted us in verifying the spot. Mr. Oxley made the +latitude of his camp (doubtless near the tree) 33 degrees 15 minutes 34 +seconds South which gives a difference of seven seconds for the 250 yards +between the tree and my camp. The variation of the needle Mr. Oxley found +to be here, in 1817, 7 degrees 0 minutes 8 seconds East and I had made it +at the last camp (Merimbah) 8 degrees 54 minutes 15 seconds East, or +nearly two degrees more, in a lapse of 19 years. The longitude of this +point as now ascertained by trigonometrical measurement from Parramatta +was 147 degrees 33 minutes 50 seconds East, or 17 minutes 50 seconds +(equal on this parallel to 17 1/4 miles) nearer to Sydney than it is laid +down by Mr. Oxley. + +We proceeded from this camp towards the southern extremity of Mount +Cunningham, under which a small branch of the Lachlan passes so close +that the party was occupied an hour and a half in removing rocks to open +a passage for the carts. We then got into an open country in which we +soon saw the same dry branch of the Lachlan before us; but we turned more +to the north-west until we reached a slightly undulated surface. No +branch of the river extends to the northward of Mount Cunningham as shown +on Mr. Oxley's map; but a small tributary watercourse, then dry, skirts +the eastern side of the hill, and enters that branch of the Lachlan which +we were upon. + +Yesterday and this day had been so excessively hot (82 degrees in the +shade) that I confidently anticipated rain, especially when the sky +became cloudy to the westward, while the wind blew steadily from the +opposite quarter. A dense body of vapour in the shape of stratus, or fall +cloud of the meteorologist, was at the same time stretching eastward +along the distant horizon on both sides of us. After crossing some sound, +open plains of stiff clay, guided by the natives, we gained an extensive +pond of muddy water and encamped on a hill of red sand on its northern +bank, and under shelter of a grove of callitris trees. + +RAIN. + +The wind now began to blow and the sky, to my great delight, being at +length overcast, promised rain enough to fill the streams and waterholes: +at twilight it began to come down. In the woods we passed through this +day we found a curious willow-like acacia with the leaves slightly +covered with bloom, and sprinkled on the underside with numerous reddish +minute drops of resin.* The Pittosporum angustifolium we also recognised +here, loaded with its singular orange-coloured bivalved fruit. + +(*Footnote. This is allied in some respects to A. verniciflua and +exudans, but is a very distinct and well-marked species. A. salicina, +Lindley manuscripts; glaucescens, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis +divaricatis lineari et oblongo-lanceolatis utrinque angustatis +obtusissimis uninerviis venulis pinnatis: ipso apice glandulosis subtus +resinoso-punctatis, capitulis 3-5 racemosis phyllodiis triplo +brevioribus.) + +March 31. + +It rained during the night and this morning the sky seemed as if it would +continue; the mercury in the barometer also falling, we halted. On a dry +sandhill, with wood and water at hand, we were well prepared to await the +results of a flood; some good grass also was found for the cattle on firm +ground at the distance of about two miles. + +GOOBANG CREEK. + +Mount Allan (Wollar of the natives) lay north-east by north, at a +distance of 3 3/4 miles. It was not a conspicuous or commanding hill, but +between it and our camp we this day discovered a feature of considerable +importance. This was the Goobang creek of our former journey, to all +appearance here as great a river as the Bogan and indeed its channel, +where we formerly saw it, contained deep ponds of clear water at a season +when the muddy holes of the Bogan had nearly failed us. Here the Goobang +much resembled that river in the depth of its bed and the character of +its banks: and its sources and tributaries must be also similar to those +of the Bogan. Hervey's range gives birth to the one, Croker's range to +the other and, their respective courses being along the opposite sides of +the higher land extending westward between the Lachlan and Macquarie, all +their tributaries must fall from the same ridge. Of these Mr. Oxley +crossed several in his route from the Lachlan to the Macquarie; +Emmeline's Valley creek belonging to the basin of the Goobang; +Coysgaine's ponds and Allan's water to that of the Bogan. It was rather +unfortunate, considering how much has been said about the Lachlan +receiving no tributaries in its long course, that Mr. Oxley left +unexplored that part where a tributary of such importance as the Goobang +joins it; especially as the floods of this stream lay the country below +Mount Cunningham under water, and are the sole cause of that swampy +appearance which Mr. Oxley observed from the hill on looking westward. It +would appear that this traveller's route northward was nearly parallel to +the general course of the Goobang. The name this stream receives from the +natives here is Billibang, Goobang being considered but one of its +tributaries. Its course completes the analogy between the rivers and +plains on each side, and the supposed disappearance of the channel of the +Lachlan seemed consequently as doubtful as the mysterious termination of +the Macquarie. + +April 1. + +The rain continuing, the party remained encamped. The barometer had +fallen since we came here from 29.442, at which it stood last night at +ten, to 29.180, which I noted this morning at six: the thermometer +continuing about 60 degrees of Fahrenheit. + +LARGE FISHES. + +On dragging our net through the muddy pond we captured two fishes, but of +monstrous size, one weighing 17 pounds, the other about 12 pounds. +Although very different in shape, I recognised in them the fish of the +perch kind with large scales* and the eel-fish** formerly caught by us in +the Namoi. But the former when taken in that river was coarse and tasted +of mud, whereas this ruffe, although so large was not coarse, but rich, +and of excellent flavour--and so fat that the flakes fell into crumbs +when fried. This day a bird of a new species was shot by Roach. It was of +a swallow kind, about the size of a snipe, of a leaden colour, with dark +head and wings. + +(*Footnote. Cernua bidyana.) + +(**Footnote. Plotosus tandanus.) + +HEAVY RAIN. + +April 2. + +The rain continued through the night and this morning it fell rather +heavily, so that enough of water could be gathered from the surface of +the plains near our camp to preclude the necessity for our having +recourse to the muddy pool. The barometer began to rise slowly from seven +in the morning, when it had reached its minimum; but the weather +continued hazy, with drizzling rain (from the south-west) until four +o'clock, when the clouds slowly drew up. The plains were not yet at all +saturated, although become too soft for our carts. The evening was +cloudy, but by ten o'clock the state of the barometer was such as to +leave little doubt about the return of fair weather. We this day found in +the woods to the northward a most beautiful species of Trichinium, with +spiky feathered pale yellow flowers, sometimes as much as six inches +long.* + +(*Footnote. Tr. nobile, Lindley manuscripts; foliis caulinis obovatis +cuspidatis subundulatis ramisque corymbosis angulatis glabris, spica +cylindracea: rachi lanata, calycis laciniis 3 acutis 2 retusis, bracteis +puberulis. Differs from Tr. densum, Cunningham in the bracts not being +villous at the base, and from T. macrocephalum, R. Br. in having much +larger flowers, which are yellow not lilac, and in three of the segments +of the calyx being acute.) + +ASCEND MOUNT ALLAN. + +April 3. + +Thick fog in the morning. The day being Sunday the party remained in the +camp; but I do not think we could have left it from the soft state of the +plains, however desirable it might have been to proceed. After twelve I +rode to Wollar (Mount Allan) with the theodolite, and from its summit I +intersected most of the hills seen from Mounts Amyot and Cunningham. A +small wart on the eastern horizon, very distant yet conspicuous, I found +to be Mount Juson, the hill on which I had stood with the brother of the +botanist whose name had been given to this hill by Mr. Oxley. + +The sameness in the surface of this country is apparently owing to the +simplicity of its geological composition. All the hills I ascended below +the junction of Byrne's creek consist of ferruginous sandstone, similar +to that which constitutes all the hills I saw on, and even beyond, the +Darling. + +On passing to and from Mount Allan we crossed, at three-quarters of a +mile from the camp, Goobang creek, the bed of which exactly resembles +that of the Bogan. The remains of drifted weeds on the trees and the +uniformity of its channel showed that it is a considerable tributary of +the Lachlan. At length the stars appeared in the evening, and I could +once more see my unerring guides, the faithful Little Dog, and the mighty +Hercules,* whereby our latitude seemed to be 33 degrees 8 minutes 55 +seconds South. + +(*Footnote. Procyon, in Canis Minor and Regulus in Leo. The latter being +also called Hercules and Cor Leonis.) + +NATIVES FROM THE BOGAN. + +At the camp we recognised among the natives seated at our fire two of our +friends from the Bogan. Their little shovel of hard wood (not used on the +Lachlan) and one of the tomahawks formerly distributed by us left no room +to doubt whether we were right about their features. + +PROPHECY OF A CORADJE. + +One was an old man and a Coradje, the other was a boy. They disappeared +in the evening, but the Coradje was so far civil as to tell the men that, +having heard The Major was praying for rain, he had caused the late fall. +This priest had also prophesied a little for our information, telling the +men that a day was at hand when two of them would go out to watch the +bullocks and would never return. + +April 4. + +The surface being sufficiently dry to enable us to travel we accordingly +continued our journey and, crossing the Goobang at 5 1/4 miles, we kept +the right bank of it during the day. The surface on that side was dry and +firm; and it may be remarked that if ever it becomes desirable to open a +line of communication from Sydney towards the country on the lower part +of the Murray, the right bank of the Goobang will probably be found the +best direction as the adjacent valley affords both grass and water for +the passage of cattle, and the doubtful plains of the Lachlan may be thus +avoided. + +POISONED WATERHOLE. + +We finally encamped on the Lachlan at the junction of the Goobang, in +latitude 33 degrees 5 minutes 20 seconds; longitude East 147 degrees 13 +minutes 10 seconds. There the river contained some deep pools and we +expected to catch fish; but Piper told us that the holes had been +recently poisoned, a process adopted by the natives in dry seasons, when +the river no longer flows, for bringing the fish to the surface of deep +ponds and thus killing the whole; I need not add that none of us got a +bite. All these holes were full of recently cut boughs of the eucalyptus, +so that the water was tinged black. + +ASCEND HURD'S PEAK. + +April 5. + +As soon as the party had started I gave the overseer the bearings and +distances to be pursued; while I proceeded to the cone named Hurd's peak +by Oxley, but by the natives Tolga. It was distant about four miles from +our line of route. A low ridge of quartz rock extends from the Goobang to +this peak the base of which consists of chlorite slate, and its summit of +squarish pebbles of quartz, with the angles rounded, associated with +fragments of chlorite slate. There was just convenient room on it for the +theodolite and, as it afforded a most satisfactory and commanding view, +well suited for the purpose of surveying, it seemed to have been aptly +named after a distinguished geographer. Many points of a distant range +now appeared on the north-western horizon in the direction of Oxley's +Mount Granard, and the ridge of Bolloon (towards the great lake +Cudjallagong) seemed not very distant. I took angles on all the points +and then hastened to overtake the party, which I did after they had +travelled about nine miles. At fourteen miles we made the banks of the +Lachlan, and encamped by the side of it on the edge of a plain in +latitude 33 degrees 4 minutes 38 seconds South, longitude 147 degrees +East. Judging by the relative position of Hurd's peak etc., I supposed it +might have been about this place that Oxley's party crossed to the right +bank of the river on his return towards Wellington valley. No traces +however were discovered by us here of the first explorers of the Lachlan. + +April 6. + +The night had been mild and clear and the sun rose in a cloudless sky. We +traversed plains of firmer surface than those crossed on the previous +day. So early even as nine o'clock the heat was oppressive. + +SNAKE AND BIRD. + +On one of these plains I witnessed an instance of the peculiar +fascination attributed to the serpent race. A large snake, lying at full +length, attracted our attention and I wished to take it alive, but as +Roach, the collector, was at a distance, some time elapsed before +preparations were made for that purpose. The ground was soft and full of +holes, into one of which it would doubtless have disappeared as soon as +it was alarmed. The rest of the party came up yet, unlike snakes in +general, who glide rapidly off, this creature lay apparently regardless +of noise, or even of the approach of the man, who went slowly behind it +and seized its head. At that moment a little bird fluttered from beside a +small tuft within a few feet of the snake and, it seemed, as the men +believed, scarcely able to make its escape. + +When we were near the spot on which we intended to encamp a native +pointed out to me a small hill beyond the river where, as he informed me, +Mr. Oxley and his party had encamped before he crossed the Lachlan. It +was called by this native Gobberguyn. We pitched our tents a little +higher than that hill where a favourable bend of the river met my line of +route. The cattle were much fatigued with the day's work although the +distance did not exceed eleven miles. It was in my power however to give +them rest for a day or two as the grass was tolerably good on that part +of the riverbank, and I was within reach of Mount Granard, a height which +I had long been anxious to examine, as well as the country to be seen +from it. Among the usual grasses we found one which I had not previously +seen and which proved to be a new species of Danthonia.* + +(*Footnote. Danthonia pectinata, Lindley manuscripts; spica simplici +secunda pleiostachya pectinata foliis multo longiore, palea inferiore +villosissima; laciniis lateralibus membranaceis aristae aequalibus.) + +RIDE TO MOUNT GRANARD. + +April 7. + +I set off early for Mount Granard, followed by six men on horseback and a +native named Barney who was also mounted. We rode at a smart pace on a +bearing of 280 degrees across thirty miles of soft red sand in which the +horses sank up to their fetlocks, and we reached the foot of the hill a +little before sunset. + +SCARCITY OF WATER THERE. + +Throughout that extent we neither saw a single watercourse nor discovered +the least indication of water having lodged there during any season. At +eleven miles from the camp we crossed a low ridge of granite (named +Tarratta) a hopeful circumstance to us as promising a primitive range of +hills between the Darling and Lachlan, and because in a crevice of this +granite our aboriginal guide found some water. The desert tract we +crossed was in other respects unvaried except that, in one place, we +passed through four miles of a kind of scrub which presented difficulties +of a new character. The whole of it consisted of bushes of a dwarf +species of eucalyptus, doubtless E. dumosa (A. Cunningham) which grew in +a manner that rendered it impossible to proceed, except in a very sinuous +direction, and then with difficulty by pushing our horses between stiffly +grown branches. Where no bushes grew the earth was naked, except where +some tufts of a coarse matted weed resembling Spinifex impeded the +horses, but seemed to be intended by Providence to bind down these desert +sands. We saw blue ranges on our right, and I hoped that before we +ascended Mount Granard we should cross some watercourse coming from them; +but nothing of the kind appeared and, after traversing a dry sandy flat, +we began to ascend. Finding myself separated from the summit, after we +had climbed some way, by a deep rocky ravine, and being in doubt about +obtaining water, I sent the people with the horses to encamp in the +valley to which that ravine opened, with directions to look for water +while daylight lasted. + +VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. + +Meanwhile I proceeded to the summit with one of the men and the native. I +arrived there and, just before the sun went down, obtained an +uninterrupted view of the western horizon; but the scene was inconclusive +as to the existence of such a dividing range as I hoped to see. Ridges +and summits appeared abundantly enough, but they were not of a bold or +connected character, and I did not obtain upon the whole a better idea +than I previously had respecting the extension of that singular group of +hills to the westward. I stood upon the best height however for carrying +on my angles in that direction. To the eastward I saw Hurd's Peak and +Bolloon, also Goulburn's and Macquarie's ranges, Mount Torrens, and Mount +Aiton of Oxley. The last hill appeared alone on the horizon, in a +south-south-east direction as shown in his map. But the most commanding +point was Yerrarar, the highest apex of Goulburn range, forming with +Bolloon and this station an almost equilateral triangle of about 30 miles +a side. + +The features before us terminated rather abruptly towards the south like +cliffs of tableland, and seemed to mark out the basin of the Lachlan; but +beyond those parts overlooking Mr. Oxley's route I could obtain no view, +although I perceived that I might from Yerrarar. + +ENCAMP THERE. + +Having completed my work as the sun was setting I hastened to the valley, +and learnt that the party had discovered neither water nor grass. Barney +the native had nevertheless obtained both when with me at the top of the +mountain; and therefore, although it was dark and we were all fatigued, +yet up that rocky mountain we were compelled to go with the horses, and +encamp near the summit beside a little pool of water which had been +well-known to Barney at other times. On this elevated crest the air was +surprisingly mild during the night for, although I slept in my clothes +and on the ground, I enjoyed its freshness as a great relief from the +oppressive heat of the day. Our singular bivouac on the summit, which I +had so long wished to visit, was adorned with a strange-looking tree, +probably Casuarina glauca. + +April 8. + +Next morning I had an opportunity of surveying the hills around me more +at leisure, and I noted down their various names from the lips of Barney +for that desolate region, where neither a kangaroo nor a bird was to be +seen or heard, was poor Barney's country, that lonely mountain his home! + +I learned that the only water in these deserts was to be found in the +crevices of rocks on such hills as this; and I thus understood the cause +of the smoke I observed last year arising from so many summits when I +looked over the same region from a hill on its northern limits. Perhaps +within thirty miles around there was no other water, and the bare top of +a mountain was certainly one of the last situations where I should have +thought of seeking for it. + +We descended after I had completed my survey from a hill which perhaps no +white man will again ascend; I may however add, for the information of +those who may be disposed to do so, that the well is on the crest of a +ridge extending north-west from the principal summit, and distant +therefrom about 200 yards. I had brought provisions for another day as I +originally intended to examine the course of the Lachlan above Mount +Torrens; but having seen enough from this hill to satisfy me on that +point we retraced our steps to the camp. + +April 9. + +This day I halted as well to rest the horses as for the purpose of +observing equal altitudes of the sun and protracting my survey. + +ASCEND BOLLOON, A HILL BEYOND THE LACHLAN. + +April 10. + +Leaving the party encamped I crossed the Lachlan and rode eight miles due +south to Bolloon which proved to be the highest cone of a low ridge +situated within the great bend of this river. I found it a valuable +station for continuing my chain of triangles downwards, as from it Mounts +Cunningham and Allan, Hurd's Peak, Peel's and Goulburn ranges, Mount +Granard, etc. are all visible. We passed some lower hills belonging to +the same chain, and of which the basis seemed to be the prevailing +ferruginous sandstone. In my return to the camp I found the dogs had +killed an emu. + +NATIVES REFUSE TO EAT EMU. + +It is singular that none of the natives would eat of this bird; and the +reasons they gave were that they were young men, and that none but older +men who had gins were allowed to eat it; adding that it would make young +men all over boils or eruptions. This rule of abstinence was also rigidly +observed by our interpreter Piper. + +NATIVE DOG. + +Late in the night I was awoke by one of the watch firing a pistol at a +native dog which had got close to the sheepfold. At the same moment a +sheep leaped out and, having been at the first alarm pursued by our dogs, +it was worried in the bed of the river. The native dog having howled as +it escaped was supposed to have been wounded. To prevent such occurrences +in future and as this arose from a neglect of my original plan, the two +fires of the men's tents were ordered to be again placed in such +positions as threw light around the sheepfold, which was of canvas +fastened to portable stakes and pegs. (See plan of camp, Volume 1.) + +KALINGALUNGAGUY. + +April 11. + +We left this camp (named Camarba) and continued our journey around the +great bend of the Lachlan at which point (4 1/2 miles from our camp) the +low ridge of Kalingalungaguy closed on the river. This ridge is a +remarkable feature, extending north and south, and I expected to see some +tributary from the north entering the river here; but we crossed on the +east side of the ridge only a wide, dry and grassy hollow, which was +however evidently the channel of a considerable body of water in times of +flood, as appeared by marks on the trees which grew along the banks. All +were of the dwarf box kind, named goborro by the natives, a sort of +eucalyptus which usually grows by itself on the lower margins of the +Darling and Lachlan, and other parts subject to inundation, and on which +the occasional rise of the waters is marked by the dark colour remaining +on the lower part of the trunk. In the bed of the Lachlan at the junction +of the channel near Kalingalungaguy I found quartz rock. + +MR. STAPYLTON OVERTAKES THE PARTY. + +We had not proceeded far beyond that ridge when Mr. Stapylton overtook +the party, having travelled in great haste from Sydney to join us as +second in command, in compliance with my letter of instructions sent from +Buree. Mr. Stapylton was accompanied by two stockmen, having left his own +light equipments at Cordowe, a station above Mount Cunningham. On the +plains which we crossed this day grew in great abundance that beautiful +species of lily found in the expedition of 1831, and already mentioned +under the name of Calostemma candidum,* also the Calostemma luteum of Ker +with yellow flowers. + +(*Footnote. Volume 1. C. candidum; floribus centralibus subsessilibus, +articulo infra medium in pedicellis longioribus, corona integerrima.) + +At nine miles we crossed some granite rocks, evidently a part of the +ridge of Tarratta, thus exhibiting a uniformity in the granite with the +general direction of other ridges, which is about north-north-east. The +strike is between north and north-east; the dip in some places being to +the west, and in others to the east, at great inclinations. The ridge of +Kalingalungaguy consists of quartz, clay-slate, and the ferruginous +sandstone, but I observed in the bed of the river a trap-dyke extending +to the Bolloon ridge. Of the few low hills about the Lachlan it may be +observed that they generally range in lines crossing the bed of that +river. Mount Amyot is a ridge of this sort, being connected to the +southward with Mount Stewart and Nyororong; and to the northward with the +high ground separating the Bogan from the Goobang; the latter creek also +forcing its way through the same chain on its course westward. Mounts +Cunningham, Melville, and the small hills about them on each bank belong +to another system of ridges of similar character, but more broken up; and +the range of Kalingalungaguy with that of Bolloon form a third, also +intersected by the river. + +OF THE PLAINS IN GENERAL. + +The plains appear to be divided into several stages by these cross +ridges, which may have shut up the water of high floods in extensive +lakes during the existence of which the deposits formed the surface of +the present plains. Loose red sand also constantly forms low hills on the +borders of these plains; and it seems to have been derived from the +decomposition of the sandstone, and may be a diluvial or lacustrine +deposit. Blue clay appears in the lowest parts of the basin, and forms +the level parts of the plain, with concretions of marl in thin layers. +This has every appearance of a mud deposit; but its depth is greater than +the lowest part visible in the channel of the river. The parallel course +of small tributaries joining rivers, which seem to be the middle drain of +extensive plains, may have been marked out during the deposition of the +sedimentary matter as tributaries, on entering the channel of greater +streams, immediately become a portion of them; hence it is, the general +inclination being common to both, that such tributaries do not cross +these sediments of floods now termed plains in order to join the main +channel or river now remaining. + +CHARACTER OF THE GOOBANG AND BOGAN. + +Thus the Goobang, on entering the valley of the Lachlan, pursues a +parallel course until the ridge from Hurd's peak confines the plain on +the west and turns the Goobang into the main channel. The Bogan, on the +opposite side of the high land, may be said to belong to the basin of the +Macquarie, although it never joins that river, but merely skirts the +plains which, below Cambelego, may be all supposed to belong to the +original bed of the Macquarie. Throughout its whole course of 250 miles +the left bank of the Bogan is close to low hills, while the right adjoins +the plains of the Macquarie. The basin of the Macquarie, as shown by its +course near Mount Harris and Morrisset's ponds, falls northward, but that +of the Darling to the south-west. It is not at all surprising therefore +that the course of a tributary so much opposed, as the Macquarie is, to +that of the main stream, should spread into marshes: still less that, on +being at length choked with the deposit filling up these marshes, it +should work out for itself a channel less opposed to the course of the +main stream. Duck creek appears to be now the channel by which the floods +of the Macquarie join the Darling, and in a course much more direct than +that through the marshes. Hence the Bogan also, being still less opposed +to that of the Darling, finally enters that river without presenting the +anomaly of an invisible channel. In like manner, at a much lower point on +the Darling, the course of the little stream named Shamrock ponds, so +remarkable in this respect, may be understood. This forms a chain of +ponds, or a flowing stream, according to the seasons, between the plains +on the left bank of the Darling, and the rising grounds further to the +eastward: but instead of crossing the plains to join the main channel +this supposed tributary, after approaching within one or two miles of the +Darling where its plains were narrow, again receded from it as they +widened, and finally disappeared to the left where the plains were broad, +so that its junction with the Darling has not even yet been discovered. +On this principle the channel of the Lachlan, as soon as it enters the +plains belonging to the basin of the Murrumbidgee, may be sought for on +the northern skirts of these plains, although its floods may have been +found to spread in different channels more directly towards the main +stream. + +At 12 1/4 miles we crossed a dry and shallow branch of the river, and at +14 1/2 miles we at length reached the main channel, and encamped where a +considerable pond of water remained in it, surrounded by abundance of +good grass. In this hole we caught some cod-perch (Gristes peelii). + +April 12. + +I sent back three men with two horses to bring on the light cart of Mr. +Stapylton, intending to await its arrival (which I expected would be in +five days) at the end of this day's journey. It was my object to encamp +as near as possible to Regent's Lake without diverging from the route +which I wished to follow with the carts, along the bank of the Lachlan. + +WANT OF WATER IN THE RIVER. + +For this purpose it was desirable to gain a bend of that river at least +as far west as the most western portion of the lake, according to Mr. +Oxley's survey. This distance we accomplished and more; for we were +obliged to proceed several miles further than I intended, and along the +bank of the river, because no water remained in its bed, until Mr. +Stapylton found a good pond where we encamped after a journey of 16 1/4 +miles. Notwithstanding such an alarming want of water in the river, we +saw during this day's journey abundance in hollows on the surface of the +plains; a circumstance clearly evincing that this river, as Mr. Oxley has +truly stated, is not at all dependent for its supply on the rains falling +here. The deep cracks on the plains, so abundant as to impede the +traveller, seemed capable of absorbing not only the water which falls +upon them, but also any which may descend from the low hills around. +During our day's journey I found grey porphyry, the base consisting +apparently of granular felspar with embedded crystals of common felspar +and grains of hornblende. + +April 13. + +The night had been unusually warm, so much so that the thermometer stood +during the whole of it at 76 degrees (the usual noonday heat) and so +parching was the air that no one could sleep. A hot wind blew from the +north-east in the morning, and the barometer fell 4/10 of an inch; there +were also slight showers. + +CUDJALLAGONG OR REGENT'S LAKE. + +Leaving Mr. Stapylton in charge of the camp I went with a small mounted +party to Cudjallagong (Regent's lake) which I found to be nine miles to +the east-south-east of our tents. We passed by the place where +Cudjallagong creek first leaves the river and by which this lake is +supplied. + +NEARLY DRY. + +The uniformity of breadth and width in this streamlet and its tortuous +course were curious, especially as it must lead the floods of the Lachlan +almost directly back from the general direction of their current to +supply a lake. Thus the fluviatile process seemed to be reversed here, +the tendency of this river being not to carry surface waters off, but +rather to spread over land where none could otherwise be found, those +brought from a great distance. The particular position of this portion of +depressed surface being so far distant from the general course of the +river and the communication between it and the river by a backwater so +shallow and small, the lake can only receive a small share of the river +deposits and this only from the waters of its highest floods. We found +the "noble lake" (as it appeared when discovered by Mr. Oxley) now for +the most part a plain covered with luxuriant grass; some water, it is +true, lodged on the most eastern extremity, but nowhere to a greater +depth than a foot. Innumerable ducks took refuge there and also a great +number of black swans and pelicans, the last standing high upon their +legs above the remains of Regent's lake. We found the water perfectly +sweet even in this shallow state. It abounds with the large freshwater +mussel which was the chief food of the natives at the time we visited it. + +DEAD TREES IN IT. + +On its northern margin and a good way within the former boundary of the +lake stood dead trees of a full-grown size which had been apparently +killed by too much water, plainly showing, like the trees similarly +situated in Lake George and Lake Bathurst, to what long periods the +extremes of drought and moisture have extended, and may again extend, in +this singular country. + +ROCKS NEAR IT. + +That the lake is sometimes a splendid sheet of water was obvious in its +line of shores. These were overhung on the south-western side by rocky +eminences which in some parts consisted of a red calcareous tuff +containing fragments of schist; in others, of trap-rock or basalt which +was very hard and black. The opposite shore was lower, with water-worn +cliffs of reddish clay. By these cliffs and the beaches of drifted sand +under them, we perceived that the prevailing winds in all times of high +flood came from the south-west; the north-east side being very different +from the opposite, which was free from sand and bore no such marks of +chaffing waves. + +TRAP AND TUFF. + +At two places the banks are so low that in high floods the water must +flow over them to the westward and supply, as I supposed, Campbell's +lake, called Goorongully, and that to the north-east of Regent's lake. +Upon the whole it appeared that the trap which originally elevated the +western shore had either partially subsided, or that it was connected +with a crater or cavity of which the only vestige is this lake. The +calcareous conglomerate was unlike any rock I had seen elsewhere, +consisting in part of a tuff resembling the matrix of the fossil bones +found in limestone fissures. It is also worthy of notice that it appears +in some low undulations which extend from the lake to the river, and that +the channel conveying the waters to the lake lies in a hollow between +them. + +NATIVES THERE. + +On first approaching the lake we saw the natives in the midst of the +water, gathering the mussels (unio). I sent Piper forward to tell them +who we were, and thus, if possible, prevent any alarm at our appearance. +It began to rain heavily as we rode round; and although detached parties +of gins on the south shore had taken fright, left their huts and run to +the main camp, I was glad to find, when we rode up, that they remained +quietly there, under cover from the heavy rain. These huts or gunyas +consisted of a few green boughs which had just been put up for shelter +from the rain then falling. The tribe consisted of about a hundred. + +WOMEN. + +The females and children were in huts at some distance from those of the +men. A great number sat huddled together and cowered down under each +gunya, their skinny limbs being so folded before their bodies that the +head rested upon the knees. Among the faces were some which, being +hideously painted white (the usual badge of mourning) grinned horribly; +and the whole was so characteristic a specimen of life among the +aborigines that the heavy rain did not prevent me from making a sketch. +While I was thus employed the natives very hospitably made a fire in a +vacant gunya, evidently for the purpose of warming poor Barney, our +guide, who seemed miserably cold, having no covering except a jacket, +thoroughly wet. + +MEN. + +The men were in general strong, healthy, and muscular, and among them was +one who measured six feet four inches, as we afterwards ascertained at +our camp. My chief object in visiting the lake was to cultivate a good +understanding with these natives in the hopes that one of them might be +induced to accompany me down the Lachlan. The facility with which Piper, +then at a distance of 200 miles from his native place, Bathurst, +conversed with these people showed that their dialects are not so varied +as is commonly believed; and I had little doubt that he would be +understood, even on the banks of the Darling. + +THEIR ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY LOWER DOWN. OOLAWAMBILOA. + +He ascertained from one of these natives of Regent's lake that after +eight of our daily journeys, according to his comprehension, the bed of +the Lachlan would contain no water, and that we must go to the right +across "the middle," as Piper understood, reaching in four days more a +lagoon called Burrabidgin or Burrabadimba: that there I must leave the +carts and go with the native on horseback; and that in two days' +travelling at the rate we could then proceed, we should reach +Oolawambiloa, a very great water. They also said that water could be +found in the bush at the end of each of those four days' journey by one +of their tribe who would go with us and who had twice been at the great +water. All this news made me impatient to go on; but we had to remain a +day or two for the light cart. It rained heavily during the whole +afternoon; nevertheless a body of these natives accompanied us back, +keeping pace with our horses. + +GAIETY OF THE NATIVES. + +Each carried a burning torch of the resinous bark of the callitris, with +the blaze of which these natives seemed to keep their dripping bodies +warm, laughing heartily and passing their jokes upon us, our horses and +particularly upon our two guides of their own race, Piper and Barney, who +seemed anything but at home on horseback with wet clothes dripping about +them. + +COLOUR LIGHT. + +These natives were of a bright copper colour, so different from black +that one had painted his thighs with black chequered lines which made his +skin very much resemble the dress of a harlequin. + +MR. STAPYLTON SURVEYS THE LAKE. + +Mr. Stapylton proceeded with a party to make a survey of Cudjallagong +lake and creek, an operation which could be accomplished with less +inconvenience as that gentleman's equipment could not come up to us until +the 16th. + +CAMPBELL'S LAKE. + +He extended his survey to the small lake to the north-east, the first +discovered by Mr. Oxley and named by him Campbell's lake. Mr. Stapylton +found only a grassy plain without a drop of water. By an opening from +Cudjallagong lake he proceeded to another likewise seen by Mr. Oxley. It +had also become a verdant plain, nevertheless I thought it was necessary +to distinguish it on my map by its native name of Goorongully, as Mr. +Oxley had not supplied any to it. + +April 15. + +The sky had continued overcast although no rain fell after the evening of +the 13th. This day however the wind changed from north-west to west and +the sky became clear. + +PIPER OBTAINS A GIN. + +The surveying party returned from the lake by midday; and with it came +also Piper, my aboriginal interpreter, who had gone there chiefly with +the view of obtaining a gin, a speculation which I thought rather +hazardous on his part; yet, strange to say, a good strong woman marched +behind him into our camp, loaded with a new opossum-skin cloak, and +various presents, that had been given to Piper with her. How he contrived +to settle this important matter with a tribe to whom he was an utter +stranger could not be ascertained; for he left our party on the lake by +night, going quite alone to the natives, and returned from their camp in +the morning followed by his gin. To obtain a gin at Cudjallagong was the +great ambition of most of the natives we had left behind, among whom were +two, friends of Piper, whom I compelled to return, and who were most +anxious to accompany us that they might obtain wives at this place. + +ASCEND GOULBURN RANGE. + +April 16. + +The morning was beautifully clear and I set out for the summit of +Goulburn range, named Yerrarar, fourteen miles distant from the camp. The +country we rode over was so thinly wooded that the hill was visible +nearly the whole way. The soil was good and firmer than the common +surface of the plains, the basis being evidently different, consisting +rather of trap than of the sandstone so prevalent elsewhere. At exactly +halfway we passed a hill of trap-rock, connected with a low range +extending towards still higher ground nearer Regent's lake, on the +eastern side. This was the first trap-rock I had seen besides that of the +lake during our whole journey down the Lachlan. + +VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. + +On the summit I found hornstone and granular felspar. The whole of +Goulburn range consisted also of the same rock. It was rather +light-coloured, partially decomposed, and lay in rounded nodules and +boulders which formed however ridges across the slopes of the ground, +tending in general 12 or 14 degrees East of North. The hills were +everywhere rocky, so that the ascent cost us nearly an hour, and we were +forced to lead our horses; but it was well worth the pains for the summit +afforded a very extensive prospect. The most interesting feature in the +country was Regent's lake which, although fifteen miles distant, seemed +at our feet, reflecting like a mirror the trees on its margin; and on the +other side we looked into the unknown west, where the horizon seemed as +level as the ocean. In vain I examined it with a powerful telescope, in +search of some remote pic; only a level and thinly wooded country +extended beyond the reach even of telescopic vision. + +With the spirit-level of my theodolite I found that the most depressed +part extended about due west by compass, a circumstance which first made +me imagine the Lachlan might have some channel in that direction. + +WARRANARY. + +Of the Mount Granard range I could see and intersect only that remarkable +cape-like point which was also the high land visible to the westward from +Mount Granard itself, being named Warranary by Barney. Closer to the +summit on which I stood were various ranges besides that of which it was +the highest point, but even this was not, strictly speaking, a range, for +it consisted on the southward of different masses, separated by portions +of low, level country. + +A NEW CORREA. + +I recognised many of my stations, such as Mount Cunningham, Bolloon, +Hurd's Pic, Mount Granard, etc. and having taken all the angles I could +with the theodolite, and gathered some specimens of a curious new +correa,* and a few bulbs of a pink-coloured amaryllis which grew on the +summit,** we descended and, just as it became quite dark, reached the +camp where I found that the men had arrived with Mr. Stapylton's light +cart, although his own horse, having strayed at Cordowe, did not +accompany it. + +(*Footnote. Resembling C. rupicola of Cunningham, but with larger and +shorter flowers, and differently shaped leaves. Young shoots were covered +with a white down which easily rubbed off. C. leucoclada, Lindley +manuscripts; ramulis albo-tomentosis gracilibus, foliis ovato-oblongis +obtusissimis petiolatis supra glabris scabriusculis subtus tomentosis, +floribus subsessilibus, corolla campanulata quadrifida, calyce cupulari +truncato.) + +(**Footnote. Calostemma carneum, Lindley manuscripts; foliis...tubo +perianthii limbo subaequali, corona truncata dentibus sterilibus nullis, +umbellis densis, pedicellis articulatis exterioribus longioribus. Flowers +pink.) + + +CHAPTER 3.3. + +North arm of the Lachlan. +Quawys. +Wallangome. +Wild cattle. +Ascend Moriattu. +Leave the Lachlan to travel westward. +No water. +Natives from Warranary. +Course down the Lachlan resumed. +Extensive ride to the westward. +Night without water. +Continue westward, and south-west. +Sandhills. +Atriplex. +Deep cracks in the earth. +Search for the Lachlan. +Cross various dry channels. +Graves. +Second night without water. +Native tumulus. +Reedy swamp with dead trees. +Route of Mr. Oxley. +Dry bed of the Lachlan. +Find at length a large pool. +Food of the natives discovered. +Horses knock up. +Scenery on the Lachlan. +Character of the different kinds of trees. +Return to the party. +Dead body found in the water. +Ascend Burradorgang. +A rainy night without shelter. +A new guide. +Native dog. +Branches of the Lachlan. +A native camp. +Children. +A widow joins the party as guide. +Horse killed. +The Balyan root. +How gathered. +Reach the united channel of the Lachlan. +No water. +Natives' account of the rivers lower down. +Mr. Oxley's lowest camp on the Lachlan. +Slow growth of trees. +A tribe of natives come to us. +Mr. Oxley's bottle. +Waljeers Lake. +Trigonella suavissima. +Barney in disgrace. +A family of natives from the Murrumbidgee. +Inconvenient formality of natives meeting. +Rich tints on the surface. +Improved appearance of the river. +Inhabited tomb. +Dead trees among the reeds. +Visit some rising ground. +View northward. +Difficulties in finding either of the rivers or any water. +Search for the Murrumbidgee. +A night without water. +Heavy fall of rain. +Two men missing. +Reach the Murrumbidgee. +Natives on the opposite bank. +They swim across. +Afraid of the sheep. +Their reports about the junction of the Darling. +Search up the river for junction of Lachlan. +Course of the Murrumbidgee. +Tribe from Cudjallagong visits the camp in my absence. +Caught following my steps. +Piper questions them. + +NORTH ARM OF THE LACHLAN. + +April 17. + +We proceeded along the right bank of the Lachlan, crossing at five miles +a small arm or ana-branch* which had been seen higher up diverging from +the river, and flowing towards the north-west by Mr. Oxley. The local +name of it is Yamorrima. Beyond this watercourse Cannil plains extend and +were more grassy than plains in general. I observed a small ridge of +trap-rock near the river. We crossed soon after the base of Mount +Torrens, also a hill of trap; and a continuation on this bank of the +Lachlan of the Goulburn range. Mount Torrens is however only an elongated +hill. The trap-rock reappears in some lower hills further northward, of +which Mount Davison is the highest and most eastern. + +(*Footnote. See Footnote below.) + +QUAWYS. + +Beyond Mount Torrens we entered the region which lies to the westward of +the Macquarie range, and found several new plants, especially a very +pretty Xerotes, with sweetly perfumed flowers, being a good deal like X. +leucocephala, but with the leaves filamentous at the edges, and the male +spikes interrupted.* We encamped on a deep pond at a bend of the Lachlan +named Gonniguldury. I learnt from the old native guide who accompanied us +from Regent's lake that they call those ponds of a river which never dry +up quawy, a word which proved to be of use to us in descending the +Lachlan. At this camp I found, by a careful observation of alpha and beta +Centauri, that the magnetic variation was 8 degrees 56 minutes 15 seconds +East. + +(*Footnote. X. typhina, Lindley manuscripts; acaulis, foliis longissimis +angusto-linearibus margine laevibus filamentosis basi laceris, capitulis +omnibus cylindraceis lanatis foemincis simplicibus masculis interruptis.) + +WALLANGOME. + +April 18. + +We continued along the riverbank passing quawys of various names as they +were pointed out by our guide. We crossed the skirt of an extensive plain +(Eeoappa) which brought in view just ahead of us a low ridge named +Wallangome. At 8 1/2 miles we found the river close under the southern +extremity of this hill, and its rocks so obstructed our passage that we +were delayed an hour in clearing a way. I ascended that point nearest the +river and determined its position by taking angles on various heights +already laid down in my map such as Granard, Yarrarar, Mount Torrens, +etc. The hill itself consisted chiefly of quartz rock, but at its base +were water-worn blocks of quartzose sandstone containing pebbles of +quartz, and they seemed to be the principal rock in the bed of the +Lachlan. + +As we proceeded a low rocky ridge or extremity from Wallangome extended +upwards of a mile along the river. Soon after we had passed a bend called +Taralago we crossed the southern limits of a plain of which the local +name is Nyaindurry, being bounded on the north-west by an isolated hill +named Moriattu. After passing successively two similar points of the +river we reached that of Gooda, where we encamped, the latitude observed +being 33 degrees 23 minutes 3 seconds South. + +WILD CATTLE. + +Mr. Stapylton, with overseer Burnett and the natives, had gone forward +early in the morning towards the hills near this place in pursuit of wild +cattle, which were said to abound near it. The tracks we perceived were +old, and although the other party had found many that were newer they +returned without having seen any of these wild animals. It appeared that +a herd of such cattle had got together about Macquarie's range, then only +a short way ahead of us, and I saw no objections to the overseer's +killing one or two, as he wished to do, in order that we might feed our +native guides without drawing so largely as we were otherwise compelled +to do on our own stock of provisions. This was a fortunate day for us in +regard to plants. Besides several curious kinds of grass,* a splendid +blue Brunonia was found on Wallangome. Its colour surpassed any azure I +had ever seen in flowers, the tinge being rather deeper than that of the +turquoise. We also obtained the seed so that I hoped this plant, which +seemed hardy enough, might become a pleasing addition to our +horticultural treasures. + +The flowers are nature's jewels.** + +(*Footnote. Lappago racemosa, W. and Aristida ramosa, R. Br.) + +(**Footnote. Croly's Gems.) + +The pink lily* was also found, as on Yerrarar, amongst rocks, but growing +in rich red soil. We gathered a number of the bulbs, being very desirous +to propagate this plant, which differs from the common white amaryllis +and others belonging to the plains not only in colour, but also in the +absence from their corona of intermediate teeth. We again found here the +new Xerotes, having the flower in five or six round tufts on the blade. +The flowered blades drooped around, radiating from the centre, while +those without flowers stood upright, giving to the whole an uncommon +appearance; the flower had a very pleasant perfume. + +ASCEND MORIATTU. + +April 19. + +Mr. Stapylton conducted the party forward while I went to the summit of +Moriattu with the theodolite. Thence I saw Mount Granard, Yerrarar, and +Mount Torrens, also the various points which I had intersected from +Wallangome. A level plain appeared to extend southward in the midst of +the groups of ridges composing Macquarie and Peel's ranges. Coccaparra, a +range very abrupt on the eastern side, appeared to be Macquarie's range +of Oxley, and an elevated extremity of it, near the river, I took to be +Mount Porteous, and of which the local name is Willin.* To the northward +the most remarkable feature was a line of plains similar to those beside +the main channel of the river, and they appeared to border a branch from +it, which extended in a western direction under the base of a small hill +named Murrangong, and far beyond it. The hill on which I stood was the +most perfectly isolated that I had ever seen, low level ground +surrounding it on every side. It consisted of a variety of the same +quartz rock as Wallangome, but contained pebbles of laminated compact +felspar. This hill was abrupt and rocky on the west and north-west sides, +the best ascent being from the south-east. + +(*Footnote. Willi, an opossum) + +We overtook the party after it had crossed some extensive plains, where +we observed a species of solanum, the berries of which our native guides +gathered and ate.* Overseer Burnett made another search this day on +Coccaparra range for the wild bullocks; the party fell in with a herd but +it kept at a great distance and got off into scrubs. Their bedding places +and paths were numerous, and it thus appeared that the number of these +animals was considerable. We gathered on Coccaparra and Mount Porteous +several bulbous plants of a species quite new to me, the root being very +large. There also we found a remarkable acacia, having long upright +needle-like leaves among which a few small tufts of yellow flowers were +sparingly scattered.** We encamped on a pond of the river named +Burrabadimba, after travelling fifteen miles. + +(*Footnote. S. esuriale, Lindley manuscripts; caule humili suffruticoso, +aculcis subulatis tenuibus in apice ramulorum et costa, foliis +lineari-oblongis obtusis subrepandis utrinque cinereis stellato-pilosis, +pedunculis subtrifloris, calycibus campanulatis pentagonis 5-dentatis +stellato-pilosis corollis tomentosis multo brevioribus.) + +(**Footnote. This proved to be the rare A. quadrilateralis of De +Candolle.) + +LEAVE THE LACHLAN TO TRAVEL WESTWARD. + +April 20. + +After proceeding some miles on this day's journey our Cudjallagong guide +pointed in a west-north-west direction as the way to Oolawambiloa. +Leaving therefore the Kalare or Lachlan, near a great bend in its general +course which below this (according to Mr. Oxley's map) was south-west, we +followed the route proposed by my native friend as it was precisely in +the direction by which I wished to approach the Darling. The universal +scarcity of water had however deprived me of every hope that any could be +found in that country, at a season when we often sought it in vain, even +in the bed of one of the large rivers of the country. Our guide however +knew the nature of our wants, and also that of the country, and I eagerly +followed him towards a hill, the most distant and most westerly on the +northern horizon. + +NO WATER. + +At sunset we halted full twenty miles short of that hill, beside the bed +of a small river, resembling in capacity and the nature of its banks that +of the Bogan; but to the manifest consternation of our guide we could +find no water in it, although some ponds had been only recently dried up. +This watercourse, he informed me, was the same which I had seen passing +by Murrangong, but he said it did not return its waters to the Lachlan, a +circumstance which I could not understand. Booraran was the name he gave +it. He went with some of our people in the dark and found a few quarts of +water two miles beyond it, but our cattle were obliged to pass the night +without any. The barometer had been falling for several days and the wind +arising suddenly at 9 P.M. brought a misty mass of cloud which began most +providentially to drop upon us, to the great relief of our thirsty +cattle. This day we found on the plains a new species of Sida with small +yellow flowers, very fragrant, and on a long stalk.* In the woods I +observed a eucalyptus of a graceful drooping character, apparently +related to E. pilularis and amygdalina. + +(*Footnote. S. fibulifera, Lindley manuscripts; incano-tomentosa, +pusilla, diffusa, foliis ovato-oblongis obtusis dentatis basi cordatis, +stipulis longissimis setaceis, pedunculis axillaribus aggregatis +filiformibus petiolis longioribus, calycibus lanatis corolla parum +brevioribus, fructu disciformi convexo tomentoso, coccis monospermis.) + +NATIVES FROM WARRANARY. + +April 21. + +A rainy morning. Some strange natives approached from the woods while I +was looking at the country beyond the dry channel, in the direction in +which our guide still wished us to proceed (about west-north-west). They +were grave and important-looking old men, and each carried a light. They +called out to me in a serious tone "Weeri kally," words which I too well +understood, meaning simply no water. I took my guide to them, but he +still seemed in doubt about the scarcity. + +COURSE DOWN THE LACHLAN RESUMED. + +It was necessary not to depend on uncertainties on such a point, and I +therefore lost no time in shaping our course again towards the nearest +bend of the Lachlan, which we reached after travelling nine miles in the +rain, and we encamped beside a pond or quawy named Buree. I considered +this day's journey to be the first deviation from the most direct line of +route towards that part of the Darling where my last journey terminated. +It was evident that in common seasons the country I wished to traverse +was not without water, our guide having suggested it as the way to +Oolawambiloa (a name always referring to a great abundance of water). I +considered it necessary now to ascertain, if possible, and before the +heavy part of our equipment moved further, whether the Lachlan actually +joined the Murrumbidgee near the point where Mr. Oxley saw its waters +covering the country; or whether it pursued a course so much more to the +westward as to have been taken for the Darling by Captain Sturt. Near the +Lachlan at this place the Anthericum bulbosum occurred in abundance, and +the cattle seemed to eat it with avidity. + +On the bank of the river a new species of rosella appeared amongst the +birds, and several were shot and preserved as specimens. + +EXTENSIVE RIDE TO THE WESTWARD. + +April 22. + +I proceeded westward accompanied by five men and an aboriginal guide, all +mounted on horseback. My object was to obtain, if possible, some +knowledge of the final course of the Lachlan; and secondly to ascertain +how far the hills to the north-west of our camp ranged beyond that very +remarkable feature, resembling a cape or promontory and named Warranary, +which marked the extent of our sight and knowledge at that time. This +point was in a direct line between the camp we then occupied on the +Lachlan and the lowest part of the Darling attained during the former +journey, and we had just fallen back from want of water; a circumstance +likely to compel me to follow the Lachlan downwards, at least if it could +be ascertained thus early that this river could not possibly be the +supposed Darling of Sturt. In case it proved otherwise I thought it not +improbable that, at the end of two days' journey westward, I might fall +in with the Lachlan, and if I could find water in it at such a point +under any circumstances, I considered that a position so much advanced +would be equally favourable, either for reaching the junction of the +Murray or the upper Darling. Should I succeed in reaching the Lachlan at +about sixty miles west of my camp I might be satisfied that it was this +river which Captain Sturt took for the Darling, and then I might seek +that river by crossing the range on the north. Whereas, should I find +sufficient reason to believe that the Darling would join the Murray, I +might continue my journey down the Lachlan until I reduced the distance +across to the Darling as much as the scarcity of water might render +necessary. + +We traversed fine plains of greater extent than I had ever seen before, +and in general of more tenacious surface. They were in many parts covered +with salsolaceous plants, but I found also a kind of grass which I had +not previously noticed; and a curious woolly plant with two-spined fruit, +belonging to the genus Sclerolaena of Brown.* I looked in vain however +for the continuation of the range to the northward. The cape +before-mentioned first rose to a considerable height over the horizon, +but as we proceeded it sunk so as to be just visible behind us, bearing +at the point where we lay down for the night 31 degrees East of North. +The continuation of the range, as we now saw, receded to the north-west; +so that the horizon of these plains continued unbroken save by the +cape-like point of Warranary. + +(*Footnote. S. bicornis, Lindley manuscripts; caule lanato ramoso, foliis +linearibus succulentis glabris, calycibus solitariis bispinosis lana alba +involutis.) + +A flight of the cockatoo of the interior, with scarlet and yellow +top-knot, passed over our heads from the north-west. + +The intense interest of this day's ride into a region quite unknown urged +me forward at a good pace, having a horizon like that of the sea before +and around us, and being in constant expectation of seeing either some +distant summit or line of lofty river-trees; all the results of the +journey depending on whether it should be the one or the other. Neither +however, as already stated, appeared, and the sun went down on the +unbroken horizon; nor could the native discern from the top of the +highest tree any other objects besides the lofty yarra trees of the +Lachlan, at a vast distance to the south-west by south. During the ride +many a tree and bush rose on the horizon before us and sunk on that we +left behind. We saw five emus together which did not run so far from us +as usual but stood at a little distance to gaze on our advancing party. +In a strip of scrub consisting of Acacia longifolia and lanceolata and +some other graceful shrubs I found a new species of correa, remarkable +for its small, green, bell-shaped flowers, and the almost total absence +of hairiness from its leaves.* + +(*Footnote. C. glabra, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis incanis, foliis +ovalibus obtusis in petiolum angustatis glabris subtus punctatis, corolla +brevi campanulata tomentosa 4-dentata calyce truncato cupulari triplo +longiore.) + +NIGHT WITHOUT WATER. + +Near this scrub we saw also many pigeons and parrots; which strengthened +our hopes of finding water, which hopes however were disappointed, and we +at length tied our horses' heads to the trees in a bit of scrub, and I +lay down on a few boughs for the night under the cover of a gunya or +bower which, on such occasions, was set up by Woods in a very short time. +(See Volume 1.) + +April 23. + +Dew had providentially fallen during the night and it proved in some +measure a substitute for the want of water to our horses. It was also +highly favourable to the object of our tour in affording a refraction +when the sun rose, so that Coccaparra (Macquarie's range) appeared above +the horizon and enabled me to determine our distance from it to be sixty +miles. Still even this refractive state of the air brought no hills in +view to the north or north-west, a circumstance which surprised me and +afforded additional reason for supposing that the Lachlan might not unite +so soon as had been imagined with the Murrumbidgee. + +CONTINUE WESTWARD, AND SOUTH-WEST. + +This may require explanation. The course of rivers is in general +conformable to the direction of ranges or the position of those hills +which bound the valley or basin, however extensive, in which they flow. +As this range fell off to the north-west, opposite to where the course of +the Murrumbidgee had continued south-west, it was less probable that the +Lachlan would unite with the main stream there than if the range had +approached, or had even continued parallel to it. + +I was disappointed in not finding sufficient water for our use remaining +on the surface after the late rain; and although the country appeared +declining to the westward, and we saw more pigeons and recent marks of +natives, I was reluctantly obliged at length to bend my steps +south-westward and afterwards south. The country we traversed was one +level plain whose extent westward we neither knew nor could discover, and +for some hours during this day's ride scarcely a bush was visible. + +SAND HILLS. + +Clumps of trees of the flooded box, or marura of the natives, appeared +occasionally in and about the many hollows in the surface; and, on the +isolated eminences of red sand, callitris trees grew, always hopeless +objects to persons in want of water. These patches of sand however were +not numerous, and never rose more than a few feet above the common +surface, which in general consisted of clay more or less tenacious. Parts +of it were quite naked; but others bore a crop of grass about three years +old which probably sprang up after the last thorough drenching of the +surface. + +DEEP CRACKS IN THE EARTH. + +So parched however was the ground now, especially in those parts which +bore no vegetation, that it yawned in cracks too deep to be fathomed by +the length of my sabre and arm together. + +ATRIPLEX. + +The best ground for travelling was of a reddish colour, glossy and firm +with tufts of a species of atriplex upon it; a dwarf grass with large +seeds not seen elsewhere by me was springing up, apparently in +consequence of the late rains. This new vegetation did not grow near the +old grass, and was too thin and low to tinge the surface.* The dreary +look of the old grass in other parts, decayed and of the colour of lead, +could not be exceeded; roots and stalks being all dead and decayed like +rotten timber. + +(*Footnote. Panicum flavidum of Retz.) + +SOUTH-WEST WINDS. + +Every blade drooped towards the north-east and showed plainly how +prevalent the south-west winds were on these open wastes. In a gloomy day +a wanderer lost upon them might have known his course merely by the +uniform drooping of those blades of grass towards the north-east. + +SEARCH FOR THE LACHLAN. + +After travelling ten miles south-west without perceiving any indication +of the river I directed our course southward and, after proceeding seven +miles in that direction, we came upon a hollow of Polygonum junceum so +full of wide and deep cracks that our horses were got across with +difficulty. It extended in a south-west direction towards some flooded +box-trees. The country beyond was better wooded, and at eleven miles we +at length approached a creek, and the large trees which enveloped it +looked like those of the river itself; but we saw none of the yarra or +white-trunked trees which always accompanied such waters and, although we +certainly found the channel of a considerable current, it was shallow, +quite dry, and full of Polygonum junceum. + +I could hardly consider this a lateral branch of the river as I thought +that I had seen its head in some hollows which I crossed on the plains +the day before. After passing this channel however we descried a long +dark line of river-trees which, as our horses were getting tired, we were +now somewhat anxious to see and, the native perceiving smoke arising from +the woods there, I, at his request, altered my course to that direction +which was 30 degrees East of South. + +THIRST OF BARNEY. + +None of the party suffered so much apparently from the want of water as +Barney, our native friend. He rode foremost of the men with a tin pot in +his hand, his eyes fixed on remote distance and his mouth open, with the +lower lip projecting, as if to catch rain from the heavens. When we were +within two miles of those trees we found enough of rainwater in a shallow +hole to refresh our horses, but it was surrounded with such tempting +grass that the animals preferred the verdure to it. Barney drank as much +as he wished, and I advised the men to fill their horns, but the horses +soon trod the water into mud, and all expected to find plenty near the +smoke; a hope in which I was by no means sanguine. + +CROSS VARIOUS DRY CHANNELS. + +The first line of trees we crossed enclosed only a shallow channel, +overgrown with polygonum; and we in vain sought the natives although we +saw where portions of fire had been recently dropped. + +Three miles further we perceived a more promising line of trees and smoke +arising from them also. There we found the yarra trees growing on a flat +with a reedy channel meandering amongst them. The fire arose from some +burning trees and grass; and there were huts of natives but no +inhabitants. + +GRAVES. + +Green bushes grew luxuriantly, and amongst them, in a romantic looking +spot, three separate graves had been recently erected. Still we could +perceive neither signs of water nor any of the natives who might have +told us where to find it. Crossing another small plain of firm ground we +came upon what seemed to be the main channel of the Lachlan, pursuing a +course to the west-north-west. It had not however above one-third of the +capacity of the bed above, but in every other respect it was similar. +Having in vain looked for a waterhole we hastened towards another line of +trees which we reached by sunset. It consisted of the yarra kind also, +but overhung what was only a hollow in the midst of a plain, although +evidently subject to inundation. + +SECOND NIGHT WITHOUT WATER. + +To find water there seemed quite out of the question; but we were +nevertheless obliged to halt, for the sun had set. Late in the night, as +we lay burning with thirst and dreaming of water, a species of duck flew +over our heads which, from its peculiar note, I knew I had previously +heard on the Darling. It was flying towards the south-west. + +April 24. + +We proceeded on the bearing of 80 degrees east of south, towards the +nearest bend of a line of yarra river-trees. There we found, after riding +two miles, another diminutive Lachlan, precisely similar to the former, +but rather less: it was very sinuous in its course and full of holes, but +surrounded by green bushes with chirping birds; but it was too obvious +that these holes had been long, long dry. Thence I pursued a course 24 +degrees North of East over naked ground, evidently subject at times to +inundation, towards other large trees; being anxious to cross all the +arms of the Lachlan before taking up its general course to guide us back +to our camp which lay then, by my calculation, 43 miles in direct +distance, higher up the river. + +NATIVE TUMULUS. + +On this flat we passed a newly-raised tumulus, a remarkable circumstance +considering the situation; for I had observed that the natives of the +Darling always selected the higher ground for burying in; and it might be +presumed that, on this part of the Lachlan, the tribe (whose marks were +numerous on the trees) could find no heights within their territory. + +REEDY SWAMP WITH DEAD TREES. + +We found that this belt of river-trees enclosed a dry swamp only, covered +with dead reeds, amongst which stood a forest of dead yarra trees, +bearing well-defined marks of water in dark stained rings at the height +of about four feet on their barkless trunks. The soil was soft and rich +and, where no roots of reeds bound it together, it opened in yawning +cracks which were very deep. This dried up swamp was nearly a mile broad, +and beyond it we found firm open and good ground; some very large +eucalypti or yarra growing between it and the edge of the reeds. + +ROUTE OF MR. OXLEY. + +I was now satisfied that we had crossed the whole bed of the Lachlan; and +I thought Mr. Oxley's line of route might have passed near the spot where +I then stood; and that in a time of flood all the channels, save the one +next the firm ground, might easily have escaped his notice. Here our +horses began to be quite knocked up, chiefly from want of water; we +therefore dismounted and dragged them on, for I hoped by taking the +direction of Mr. Oxley's line of route, as shown on his map, that the +branches would soon concentrate in one united channel. + +DRY BED OF THE LACHLAN. + +At the end of four miles we found that junction had taken place, and the +bed of the river as broad and deep as usual, but it was everywhere dry. I +made the people lead the exhausted horses from point to point, while I +examined all the bends, for the course was very sinuous; still I saw no +appearance of water, nor even of any having recently dried up. + +FIND AT LENGTH A LARGE POOL. + +After proceeding thus about two miles, the chirping of birds and a tree +full of chattering parrots raised my hopes that water was near; and at a +very sharp turn of the channel, to the great delight of all, I at length +saw a large and deep pool. Our horses stood drinking a full quarter of an +hour; and during the time a duck dropped into the pond amongst them. The +poor bird appeared to have been as much overcome by thirst as ourselves +for, on the inconsiderate native throwing his boomerang, it was scarcely +able to fly to the top of the opposite bank. As the grass was good I +halted during the remainder of the day for the sake of our horses; +although the delay subjected us to another night in the bush. I made the +men sit down out of sight of the pond for a reason which I did not choose +to tell them; but it was that we might not, by our presence, deprive many +other starving creatures of a benefit which Providence had so bountifully +afforded to us. + +On a large tree overlooking the pond, and which had already been deprived +by the natives of a considerable patch of bark, I chalked the letter M, +which the men cut out of the solid wood with their tomahawks. This being +the lowest permanent pond above the separation of the river into so many +arms, I thought that by such a mark of a white man the natives would be +more ready to point out the spot to any future traveller when required. I +found about the fires of the natives a number of small balls of dry fibre +resembling hemp, and I at first supposed it to be a preparation for +making nets, having seen such on the Darling. + +FOOD OF THE NATIVES DISCOVERED. + +Barney the native however soon set me right by taking up the root of a +large reed or bulrush which grew in a dry lagoon hard by, and by showing +me how the natives extracted from the rhizoma a quantity of gluten; and +this was what they eat, obtaining it by chewing the fibre. They take up +the root of the bulrush in lengths of about eight or ten inches, peel off +the outer rind and lay it a little before the fire; then they twist and +loosen the fibres, when a quantity of gluten, exactly resembling wheaten +flour, may be shaken out, affording at all times a ready and wholesome +food. It struck me that this gluten, which they call Balyan, must be the +staff of life to the tribes inhabiting these morasses, where tumuli and +other traces of human beings were more abundant than at any part of the +Lachlan that I had visited. + +HORSES KNOCK UP. + +April 25. + +We continued our route upwards along the right bank of the Lachlan on a +bearing of 36 degrees East of North taken from Mr. Oxley's map: and +coming to the river at nine miles we again watered our horses, and rested +them for they were very weak. After travelling fifteen miles one of them +rode by Woods, who carried the theodolite, knocked up when we were far +from the Lachlan. With some difficulty we however got it on until we +reached the river and, finding water, we halted for the day after a ride +of twenty-one miles. + +SCENERY ON THE LACHLAN. + +The scenery was highly picturesque at that part of the banks of the +Lachlan notwithstanding the dreary level of the naked plains back from +them. + +CHARACTER OF THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF TREES. + +The yarra grew here, as on the Darling, to a gigantic size, the height +sometimes exceeding 100 feet; and its huge gnarled trunks, wild +romantic-formed branches often twisting in coils, shining white or light +red bark, and dark masses of foliage, with consequent streaks of shadow +below, frequently produced effects fully equal to the wildest forest +scenery of Ruysdael or Waterloo. Often as I hurried along did I take my +last look with reluctance of scenes forming the most captivating studies. +The yarra is certainly a pleasing object in various respects; its shining +bark and lofty height inform the traveller of a distant probability of +water, or at least of the bed of a river or lake; and being visible over +all other trees it usually marks the course of rivers so well that, in +travelling along the Darling and Lachlan, I could with ease trace the +general course of the river without approaching its banks until I wished +to encamp. The nature and character of several other species of the genus +eucalyptus were nevertheless very different and peculiar. The small kind, +covered with a rough bark and never exceeding the size of fruit trees in +an orchard and called, I believe, by Mr. Oxley, the dwarf-box, but by the +natives goborro, grows only on plains subject to inundation, and it +usually bears on the lower part of the trunk the mark of the water by +which it is at times surrounded. Between the goborro and the yarra there +seems this difference: the yarra grows only on the banks of rivers, +lakes, or ponds, from the water of which the roots derive nourishment; +but when the trunk itself has been too long immersed the tree dies; as +appeared on various lakes and in reedy swamps on the Lachlan. The goborro +on the contrary seldom grows on the banks of a running stream, but seems +to thrive in inundations, however long their duration. Mr. Oxley remarked +during his wet journey that there was always water where these trees +grew. We found them in most cases during a dry season, a sure indication +that none was to be discovered near them. It may be observed however that +all permanent waters are invariably surrounded by the yarra. These +peculiarities we ascertained only after examining many a hopeless hollow +where grew the goborro by itself; nor until I had found my sable guides +eagerly scanning the yarra from afar when in search of water, and +condemning any distant view of goborro trees as hopeless during that dry +season. In describing the trees which ornamented the river scenery I must +not omit to mention a long-leaved acacia whose dark stems and sombre +foliage, drooping over the bank, presented a striking and pleasing +contrast to the yarra trunks, and the light soil of the water-worn banks. +The bimbel (or spear-wood) which grows on dry forest land, the pine-like +Callitris pyramidalis on red sandhills, and a variety of acacias in the +scrubs, generally present groups of the most picturesque description. + +RETURN TO THE PARTY. + +April 26. + +We continued towards the camp which I reached at about nine miles and +found that nothing extraordinary had occurred during my absence. The +overseer had been again to Coccoparra to hunt the wild cattle (by my +orders) yet, although he found a herd and put two bullets through one +animal, all escaped. The party thought to hem them in by driving them to +the foot of the range; but as soon as the cattle found themselves beset +they climbed, apparently without much difficulty, the abrupt rocky face +of the hills, throwing down on their ascent the large fragments and loose +stones that lay in their way and which, rolling down the declivities, +checked their pursuers until the bullocks, wounded and all, escaped. + +DEAD BODY FOUND IN THE WATER. + +The working cattle had little good grass at the camp, and another reason +I had for quitting it was the state of the waterhole. Even at first it +was small and the water had a slightly putrid taste, the cause of which +having been discovered, the water had become still less palatable. Piper, +our native interpreter, in diving for fish on the previous day had, to +his horror, brought up on his spear, instead of a fish, the putrid leg of +a man! Our guide (to the Booraran) had left the camp during my absence; +and it was said that he was aware of the circumstance of the body of a +native having been thrown into the hole; for he had abstained from +drinking any of the water. + +I had still however a desire to reconnoitre the country to the southward +in hopes that I might see enough of its features to enable me to arrive +at some conclusion as to the final course of the Lachlan, and to arrange +our further journey accordingly. + +ASCEND BURRADORGANG. + +April 27. + +I rode to Burradorgang, a saddle-backed hill bearing 117 degrees from our +camp and distant 19 miles. This hill I found to be the most western and +the last between the Murrumbidgee and the Lachlan. I only reached its +base with tired horses an hour before dusk. Just as I dismounted and +began to climb the rocks a drizzling rain came on from the north-west, +and it unfortunately first obscured that portion of the horizon which I +was most anxious to see. + +VIEW FROM BURRADORGANG. + +To the northward, eastward, and southward however it continued clear, and +the points visible in those directions fully occupied my attention until +the western horizon became distinct. I was at once enabled to identify +this hill with an angle observed when on the top of Yerrarar. Granard and +the principal summits of Peel's and Macquarie's ranges were visible and, +as the sky cleared I could see Warranary, that south-western extremity of +the Mount Granard range already mentioned, and which I was enabled by my +observations here to connect with the trigonometrical survey. But even +from this summit nothing could be observed beyond besides the +continuation of the range towards the north-west at an immense distance. +The object next in importance was the country between me and the +Murrumbidgee in a south-west direction. I expected that some kind of +ridge or hills above the common level would separate that river from the +Lachlan if the courses of both rivers continued to separate to any +considerable distance westward. But although I perceived a low ridge +extending towards the west from the most southern part of Peel's range I +also saw that it terminated in the low level of the plains at about 20 +degrees West of South. + +A RAINY NIGHT WITHOUT SHELTER. + +Burradorgang, this last of hills, consisted of ferruginous sandstone like +all the others I saw further in the interior during the former journey. I +descended to its base just as darkness came on; and myself and the men +with me were forced to pass the night exposed to the wind and rain at a +place where nevertheless we could find no water for our horses. + +April 28. + +The rain ceased some time before daybreak, but the weather continued +cloudy and, fogs hanging on the distant horizon, I was not tempted again +to ascend the mountain as I certainly should have done had the morning +been clear. We mounted and retraced our steps to the camp. The country +between this hill and the river consisted chiefly of soft red soil in +which grew the cypress-like callitris, also acacia, and the bimbel or +spear-wood.* It seemed to consist of a very low undulation, extending +from the hill into the great angle formed by the Lachlan, whose general +course changes near that camp from west to south-west. There was however +a tract extending southward from the river for about three miles, on +which grew yarra trees bearing the marks of occasional floods to the +height of a foot above the common surface. This ground was probably in +part under water when Mr. Oxley passed it, as he represents a swamp or +morass in his map within this bend of the river. I found on the low +tract, between Burradorgang and our camp, a new curious species of +solanum, so completely covered with yellow prickles that its flowers and +leaves could scarcely be seen.** + +(*Footnote. The wood named bimbel by the natives grows with a shining +green lance-shaped leaf, and is in much request with them for the purpose +of making their spears, boomerangs, waddies, etc.) + +(**Footnote. S. ferocissimum, Lindl manuscripts; caule herbaceo erecto: +aculeis confertissimis pugioniformibus arcuatis, foliis linearibus +obtusis utrinque praesertim subtus furfuraceo-tomentosis aculeatissimis, +pedunculis subtrifloris foliorum longitudine, calycibus inermibus.) + +A NEW GUIDE. + +On reaching the camp I found that Piper had fallen in with some natives, +one of whom, an old man, undertook to conduct us to the Murrumbidgee in +five days, assuring us that the Lachlan entered that river. This +information, the dry state of the country, and the knowledge I had +acquired of its principal features, determined me to follow the course of +the Lachlan; and in the event of its soon uniting with the Murrumbidgee, +to continue along the right bank of that river to its junction with the +Murray, then to leave the bulk of our equipment, the carts and most of +the cattle, and complete the survey of the Darling with a lighter party. + +April 29. + +We moved down the Lachlan, travelling in my former track, and we pitched +our tents near the place where I had slept on the 26th, the cattle not +being able to go further, from the softness of the ground after the rain. + +April 30. + +Following the same track, the party reached, at the distance of twelve +miles, an angle of the river named Curwaddilly, at which there was a good +pond, and here we encamped. From this point I obtained a bearing on +Burradorgang, and it was the lowest station on the river which could be +connected with my survey of the hills for, when Burradorgang sunk below +the eastern horizon, a perfectly level line bounded our view on all +sides. + +NATIVE DOG. + +May 1. + +Just as the party was leaving the ground a noise was heard in the rear, +and two shots were fired before I could hasten to the spot. These I found +had been inconsiderately fired by Jones our shepherd at a native dog +belonging to our new guide and which had attacked the sheep. This +circumstance was rather unfortunate, for our guide soon after fell +behind, alleging to the party that he was ill. I knew however where to +find water that day; and we proceeded to the fine pond which I was so +fortunate as to discover on the 24th ultimo after our horses had suffered +thirst for three days and two nights. Two young natives who had +accompanied us for some days undertook to find water for a couple of +journeys beyond this pond. The men caught in this friendly pool several +good cod-perch (Gristes peelii) a fish surpassing, in my opinion, all +others in Australia. As we crossed the plains this day I observed the +natives eating a plant which grew in the hollows and we found it, when +boiled, a very good vegetable. + +BRANCHES OF THE LACHLAN. + +May 2. + +We pursued a course nearly west for seven miles, having the Lachlan on +our left until we were stopped by a watercourse, or branch of the river, +which crossed our intended route at rightangles. Its banks were steep and +the passage of our waggons was consequently a work of difficulty, but the +best crossing place appeared to be just where it left the main channel. +Here accordingly we cut down the bank on each side with spades and filled +up the soft lowest part of the hollow with stumps and branches of trees, +and all of which being covered with earth from the sides, the carts were +got safely across after about half an hour's work. We soon however came +to another similar watercourse, but by the advice of the natives we +followed it to the northward, and we found that at a short distance it +branched into shallow hollows of polygonum which we traversed without +delay or difficulty. Soon after we had resumed our course by crossing +these hollows, we came upon the main channel which very much resembled +other parts of the Lachlan, only that it was smaller. + +A NATIVE CAMP. + +Piper's gin came to tell us that there was water ahead, and that natives +were there. We accordingly approached with caution and having found two +ponds of water we encamped beside them, the local name of the situation +being Combedyega. + +CHILDREN. + +A fire was burning near the water and at it sat a black child about seven +or eight years old, quite blind. All the other natives had fled save one +poor little girl still younger who, notwithstanding the appearance of +such strange beings as we must have seemed to her, and the terror of +those who fled, nevertheless lingered about the bushes and at length took +her seat beside the blind boy. A large supply of the balyan root lay near +them, and a dog so lean as scarcely to be able to stand, drew his feeble +body close up beside the two children as if desirous to defend them. They +formed indeed a miserable group, exhibiting nevertheless instances of +affection and fidelity creditable both to the human and canine species. +An old man came up to the fire afterwards with other children. He told us +the name of the waterholes between that place and the Murrumbidgee, but +he could not be prevailed on to be our guide. + +A WIDOW JOINS THE PARTY AS GUIDE. + +Subsequently however a gin who was a widow, with the little girl +above-mentioned, whose age might be about four years, was persuaded by +him to accompany us. + +HORSE KILLED. + +At this camp, just after I had inspected the horses and particularly +noticed one as the second best draught animal we had, I was requested by +the overseer to look at him again, both bones of his near thigh having +been broken by an unlucky kick from a mare. The horse had been with me on +two former expeditions, and it was with great regret that I consented to +his being shot. We were enabled to regale the old native with his flesh, +the men shrewdly giving him to understand through Piper that the horse +was with us what the emu was with them, too good a thing to be eaten by +young men. He seemed to relish it much and next morning we left him +roasting a large piece. + +THE BALYAN ROOT. + +The principal food of these inhabitants of the Kalare or Lachlan appeared +to be balyan, the rhizoma, as already stated, of a monocotyledonous plant +or bulrush growing amongst the reeds. It contains so much gluten that one +of our party, Charles Webb, made in a short time some excellent cakes of +it; and they seemed to me lighter and sweeter than those prepared from +common flour. + +HOW GATHERED. + +The natives gather the roots and carry them on their heads in great +bundles within a piece of net. The old man came thus loaded to the fire +where the blind child was seated; and indeed this was obviously their +chief food among the marshes. + +May 3. + +We proceeded nearly west according to the suggestion of our female guide. +We crossed, at a few miles from Combedyega, my track in the afternoon of +April 23rd; and soon after we entered on plains similar to those which we +had traversed that day: + +The morn was wasted in the pathless grass, +And long and lonesome was the wild to pass. + +REACH THE UNITED CHANNEL OF THE LACHLAN. + +We saw however the river-line of trees on our left, and late in the day +we approached it. Here I recognised the Lachlan again united in a single +channel, which looked as capacious as it was above, the only difference +being that the yarra trees seemed low and of stunted growth. A singular +appearance on the bushes which grew on the immediate bank attracted my +attention. A paper-like substance hung over them in the manner in which +linen is sometimes thrown over a hedge; but on examination it appeared to +be the dried scum of stagnant water. This--marks of water on the trees +and the less water-worn character of the banks which were of even slope +and grassy--seemed to show that the current of the river during floods +here loses its force, and that the water is consequently slower in +subsiding than higher up the stream. + +NO WATER. + +The course of the river was very tortuous, but still I in vain traced the +channel for water, even in the sharpest of its turnings, until long after +it was quite dark. We encamped at length near a small muddy hole +discovered with the assistance of our female guide, after having +travelled nineteen miles. I found the latitude of this camp to be 33 +degrees 52 minutes 59 seconds, which was so near that of Mr. Oxley's +lowest point according to his book that I concluded we must be close to +it. Fortunately we found some natives at this waterhole who told us that +a long while ago white men had been encamped on the opposite side of the +Kalare, and that the place where they had marked a tree was not very far +distant, but that it had recently been burnt down. We saw today for the +first time on the Kalare the red-top cockatoo (Plyctolophus leadbeateri). + +NATIVES' ACCOUNT OF THE RIVERS LOWER DOWN. + +May 4. + +This morning it rained and, considering the long journey of yesterday, I +gave the cattle rest. Here the natives again told us of Oolawambiloa, +near a great river coming from the north, and only five days' journey +from where we should make the Murrumbidgee. They also told us that the +latter river was joined by another coming from the south before it +reached Oolawambiloa. + +We had now therefore the direct testimony of the natives that the Darling +(for it could be no other) joined the Murray and that the river Lachlan +did not lose its channel here as supposed by Mr. Oxley, but that in five +days' journey further we might expect to trace it into the Murrumbidgee. + +MR. OXLEY'S LOWEST CAMP ON THE LACHLAN. + +May 5. + +The ground being very heavy the cattle in the carts proceeded but slowly +along the plains to the northward of the Lachlan; and while the party +followed Mr. Stapylton I went along the bank with the natives to visit +Mr. Oxley's last camp, which was not above a mile from that we had left. +On my way I crossed a bed of fine gravel, a circumstance the more +remarkable, not only because gravel was so uncommon on these muddy +plains, but because Mr. Oxley had also remarked that no stone of any kind +could be seen within five miles of the place. This gravel consisted of +sand and pebbles of quartz about the size of a pea. Our female guide, who +appeared to be about thirty years of age, remembered the visit of the +white men; and she this day showed me the spot where Mr. Oxley's tent +stood, and the root with some remains of the branches of a tree near it +which had been burnt down very recently, and on which she said some marks +were cut. + +SLOW GROWTH OF TREES. + +Several trees around had been sawn and on two, about thirty yards west +from the burnt stump, were the letters WW and IW 1817. The tree bearing +the last letters was a goborro or dwarf box, and had been killed two +years before by the natives stripping off a sheet of bark; but from the +growth of the solid wood around the carved part it appeared that this +tree had increased in diameter about an inch and a half in seventeen +years; the whole diameter, including the bark, being sixteen inches. We +immediately dug around the burnt stump in search of the bottle deposited +there by Mr. Oxley, but without success. The gins said that he rode +forward some way beyond, and marked another tree at the furthest place he +reached. I accordingly went there with them, and they showed me a tree +marked on each side but, the cuttings being in the bark only, they were +almost grown out. It stood beside a small branch or outlet of the river, +which led into a hollow of polygonum. The natives also said that one of +Mr. Oxley's men was nearly drowned in trying to cross this but that they +got him out. They positively assured me that this was the farthest point +Mr. Oxley reached; and it seemed the more probable as during a flood the +deep and narrow gully extending between the river and the field of +polygonum must have then been under water, and a most discouraging +impediment to the traveller. I place this spot in latitude 33 degrees 45 +minutes 10 seconds South; longitude 144 degrees 56 minutes East. The +natives further informed me that three white men on horseback who had +canoes (boats) on the Murrumbidgee had visited this part of the Lachlan +since, and that after crossing it and going a little way beyond, they had +returned. + +A TRIBE OF NATIVES COME TO US. + +In the evening, while a heavy shower fell, the natives who had come with +me gave the alarm that a powerful tribe was advancing with scouts ahead, +as when they mean mischief. We were immediately under arms and soon saw a +small tribe consisting chiefly of old men, women, and children, +approaching our party. They sat down very quietly near us, lighting their +fire and making huts without saying a word; and on Piper going to them we +soon came to a good understanding. + +MR. OXLEY'S BOTTLE. + +From them we learnt that, after the tree at Oxley's camp had been burnt +down, a bottle had been found by a child who broke it, and that it +contained a letter. This information saved us all further search, +although it had been my intention to halt next day and send back six men +to dig for the bottle; I had purposed also to have promised a full one in +exchange for it, if they had found it. + +May 6. + +The chief of the new tribe had ordered a man to accompany us as guide, +but after going a mile or two he fell back and left us; and we were thus +compelled again to depend on the information of the gin for the situation +of water. I regretted exceedingly the defection of this envoy, by whose +means I hoped to have been passed from tribe to tribe. + +The grass had improved very much on the banks of the Lachlan. A vast +plain of very firm surface extended southward, but not a tree was visible +upon it, while on our side the country was wooded in long stripes of +trees. + +WALJEERS LAKE. + +About seven miles from the camp the river, the general course of which +had been for several days about south-west, turned southward; and we came +in sight of Waljeers. The natives had for some days told us of Waljeers, +which proved to be the bed of a lake nearly circular and about four miles +in circumference. It was perfectly dry, but in wet seasons it must be a +fine sheet of water. As we approached its banks I observed that the +surface, which was somewhat elevated above the country nearer the river, +consisted of firm red soil with large bushes of atriplex, +mesembryanthemum, and other shrubs peculiar to that kind of surface, +which is so common on the left bank of the Bogan. + +TRIGONELLA SUAVISSIMA. + +The whole expanse of the lake was at this time covered with the richest +verdure and the perfumed gale which: + +fanned the cheek and raised the hair, +Like a meadow breeze in spring, + +heightened the charm of a scene so novel to us. I soon discovered that +this fragrance proceeded from the plant resembling clover which we found +so excellent as a vegetable during the former journey.* A young crop of +it grew in scanty patches near the shores of the lake, and I recognised +it with delight, as it seems the most interesting of Australian plants. +The natives here called it Calomba and told us that they eat it. Barney +said it grew abundantly at Murroagin after rain. It seems to spring up +only on the richest of alluvial deposits, in the beds of lagoons during +the limited interval between the recession of the water and the +desiccation of the soil under a warm sun.** Exactly resembling new mown +hay in the perfume which it gives out even when in the freshest state of +verdure, it was indeed sweet to sense and lovely to the eye in the heart +of a desert country. When at sea off Cape Leeuwin in September 1827, +after a three months' voyage and before we made the land, I was sensible +of a perfume from the shore which this plant recalled to my recollection. + +(*Footnote. Trigonella suavissima, Volume 1.) + +(**Footnote. On leaving Sydney for this expedition I placed in charge of +Mr. McLeay, colonial secretary, the first specimen of this plant produced +by cultivation. It grew luxuriantly in a flower-pot from seeds brought +from the Darling where it was discovered. Volume 1.) + +In the bed of Waljeers we again found the Agristis virginica of +Linnaeus,* and an Echinochloa allied to E. crusgalli, two kinds of very +rich grass; but most of the verdure in the middle of the bed consisted of +a dwarf species of Psoralea which grew but thinly.** Hibiscus was also +springing very generally. The bed of this lake had been full of the +freshwater mussel; and under a canoe (which I took away in the carts) +were several large crayfish dead in their holes. Dry and parched as the +bed of the lake then was, the natives found nevertheless live freshwater +mussels by digging to a substratum of sand. I understood that they also +find this shell alive in the same manner, in the dry bed of the Lachlan. + +(*Footnote. See Volume 1.) + +(**Footnote. The third species of Psoralea before referred to (March +19th). P. cinerea, Lindley manuscripts; herbacea, incana, foliis pinnatim +trifoliolatis, foliolis dentatis punctatis ovatis acutis intermedio basi +cuneato, racemo pedunculato denso multifloro foliis triplo longiore, +bracteis minimis ovatis acuminatis, calycibus pellucide pauci-punctatis, +caule ramisque strictis.) + +This lake was surrounded by yarra trees similar to those on the banks of +the river; and within them was a narrow belt of slender reeds but no +bulrushes. On the western shore lay a small beach of sand. The banks were +in height about eight feet above the ordinary water-line of the lake; and +the greatest depth in the centre was about sixteen feet below that line. +The yarra trees distinguishing the margin continued to form a dense belt +extending westward from the northern shore; and the natives informed me +that these trees surrounded a much smaller lake named Boyonga which lay, +as they pointed, immediately to the northward of it. + +On ascending the bank overlooking the western shore of Waljeers we found +that it also consisted of firm red soil with high bushes of atriplex, +etc., as on the opposite side. We next traversed a plain of the same +elevation but of firmer texture than any we had seen nearer the Lachlan. +The grass upon it was also good and abundant; and we found ourselves upon +the whole in a better sort of country than we had seen for weeks; but +still water was, if possible, scarcer than ever. After travelling about +seven miles beyond Waljeers we regained the banks of the Lachlan; but I +pursued its channel about two miles without finding a drop, and we +encamped finally without having any for the animals after travelling +upwards of sixteen miles. + +BARNEY IN DISGRACE. + +May 7. + +The grass was green and abundant and dew had fallen upon it during the +night; our cattle therefore had not fared as badly as on other nights of +privation; and were able to proceed. After we had left our former +encampment and the envoy had deserted us it occurred to me that our +friend Barney, who had accompanied us a long way, appeared rather too +anxious to have a gin. He had been busy, as I subsequently learnt, in +raising a hue and cry on the approach of the tribe we last met, in hopes +that we might quarrel with them, and that he might get one, in +consequence, on easy terms. I recollected that he reminded me of his +wants in this respect at the very moment these people were approaching. I +foresaw the mischief likely to arise from this readiness of Barney to +insult native tribes while under the wing of our party; and the +unfavourable impression he was likely to make on them respecting us if he +were allowed to covet their gins. I therefore blamed him for causing the +return of the guide who had been sent with us by that tribe, placed him +in irons for the night and, much as I liked the poor fellow as an +intelligent native, I thought it necessary to send him back this morning +in company with a mute young savage, also from Cudjallagong, who seemed +much inclined to become a follower of the camp. Our stock of provisions +could not be too carefully preserved and such followers, when beyond +their beat, might have had claims on it not to be resisted. There then +remained with us, besides Piper and his gin, two intelligent native boys, +each being named Tommy, together with The Widow and her child. The two +Tommies obtained new chronometrical surnames, being known in the party as +Tommy Came-first and Tommy Came-last. The former had been told plainly to +go back, upon which he was heard to say he should follow the party, +notwithstanding Majy's orders, as he could always find opossums in the +trees. I was pleased with his independence on being told this, and +allowed him to accompany the party as well as his friend Tommy Came-last, +whom he had picked up somehow in the woods. + +A FAMILY OF NATIVES FROM THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +Our female guide maintained that there was a waterhole some miles onward +at Pomabil; and we accordingly proceeded in that direction, regaining +first the firm plains outside the trees growing on the river margin. We +reached the part to which she had pointed and she went forward to look +for the water but, on her calling out soon after that natives were there, +we advanced into the wood, when we observed smoke arising and natives +running away, pursued by The Widow. At length, perceiving that she stood +talking to them, we went up. The strangers consisted of a family just +come from the Murrumbidgee, and presented such a picture of the wild and +wonderful that I felt a strong desire to make a sketch of the whole +group. One man who was rather old being in mourning, as I was told, for +the death of a brother, had his face, head and breast so bedaubed with +white that he resembled a living skeleton; the others had large sticks, +snakes and other reptiles in their hands, but they were perfectly naked +and, crowding around him, presented a strange assemblage. + +INCONVENIENT FORMALITY OF NATIVES MEETING. + +I was anxious to learn from the principal personage the situation of the +water; but on this first meeting it was necessary, as usual on all such +occasions, to continue for some time patient and silent. This formality +was maintained very remarkably by the old man and Piper. In vain did I +desire the latter to ask him a question; each stood silent for a full +quarter of an hour about eight yards apart, neither looking at the other. +The female however became the intermediate channel of communication, for +both spoke alternately in a low tone to her. At length Piper addressed +the old man, raising his voice a little but with his head averted; and +the other answered him in the same way; until at length by slow degrees +they got into conversation. We were then informed that water was to be +found a mile or two on, and the old man agreed to guide overseer Burnett +and Piper to the place. I conducted the wheel-carriages along the firm +plain outside and, after proceeding more than 2 1/2 miles, I heard a shot +from Burnett, announcing his arrival at the water. I accordingly +proceeded with the party in that direction, and we encamped near the +river, amid the finest verdure that we had yet seen and after a journey +of nine miles. We were informed that the Lachlan contained water in more +abundance one or two days' journey lower down, and that the Murrumbidgee +was not far to the southward. + +May 8. + +This day being Sunday I gave the cattle rest; but Mr. Stapylton went down +the river with two men to make sure of water at our next stage. They +found a pond at the distance of about eleven miles; the way to it being +over a fine hard plain covered with mesembryanthemum and salsolae. The +party saw a large kangaroo, the first observed on the banks of the +Lachlan during this journey. The old man and his family had proceeded +across to Waljeers in order to procure mussels, the object, as I +understood, of his journey from the Murrumbidgee. + +May 9. + +We moved to the pond above-mentioned, named Yambarenga, and found near it +a number of large huts similar to those of the Darling. The water was +very green and muddy but the taste was good. The plain we traversed this +day exactly resembled the best of the ground on the Darling; and in some +places I observed the Quandang bushes,* having their branches covered +with a parasitical plant whose bright crimson flowers were very +ornamental.** + +(*Footnote. Fusanus acuminatus.) + +(**Footnote. Loranthus quandang, Lindley manuscripts; incanus, foliis +oppositis lineari-oblongis obsolete triplinerviis obtusis, pedunculis +axillaribus folio multo bevioribus apice divaricato-bifidis 6-floris, +floribus pentameris aequalibus, petalis linearibus, antheris linearibus +basi insertis. Next L. gaudichaudi.) + +THE MURRUMBIDGEE SEEN FROM THE LACHLAN. + +South of the spot where we now encamped the ground, which consisted of +firm red clay, gradually rose; and from a tree Burnett observed the tall +yarras of the Murrumbidgee at a distance of about eight miles. The +latitude observed was 34 degrees 14 minutes 37 seconds South, longitude +144 degrees 25 minutes East. + +May 10. + +A thick fog prevented the men from getting the cattle together as early +as usual. In the meantime I made a drawing of the native female and the +scenery around; and we finally left the encamping ground at a quarter +before eleven. The first part of this day's journey was over a rising +ground, on leaving which the country seemed as if it descended westward +into a lower basin, so that I took the river Lachlan which lay below to +be already the Murrumbidgee. + +RICH TINTS ON THE SURFACE. + +We next travelled over a fine hard plain covered very generally with +small bushes of a beautiful orange-flowered, spreading under-shrub, with +broad thin-winged fruit;* but the Mesembryanthemum aequilaterale grew +almost everywhere and seemed to take the place of grass. It crept over +the light red earth, ornamenting it with a rich variety of bright green, +light red, purple, and scarlet tints which, when contrasted with the dead +portions that were all of a pale grey colour, produced a fine harmonious +foreground, fit for any landscape. The plains were intersected by a small +wood of goborro (dwarf box) and after crossing this and keeping the lofty +yarra trees in view we found these trees at length growing on ground +which was intersected by hollows full of reeds, other parts of the +surface bearing a green crop of grass. + +(*Footnote. Ropera aurantiaca, Lindley manuscripts; foliolis linearibus +obtusis succulentis petiolo aequalibus, petalis obovatis obtusissimis, +fructibus orbiculatis. November 1838: This Ropera has grown in the +gardens of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick and proves a pretty new +annual flower.) + +IMPROVED APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER. + +The banks of the river bore here a very different aspect from any parts +which we had seen above; and I supposed that we were at length +approaching its junction with the Murrumbidgee. The bed was broader but +not so deep, and contained abundance of water at every turning. Ducks, +pigeons, cockatoos and parrots were numerous; and we had certainly +reached a better country than any we had yet traversed. + +INHABITED TOMB. + +On a corner of the plain, just as we approached the land of reedy +hollows, I perceived at some distance a large, lonely hut of peculiar +construction, and I accordingly rode to examine it. On approaching it I +observed that it was closed on every side, the materials consisting of +poles and large sheets of bark, and that it stood in the centre of a plot +of bare earth of considerable extent, but enclosed by three small ridges, +the surface within the area having been made very level and smooth. I had +little doubt that this was a tomb but, on looking through a crevice, I +perceived that the floor was covered with a bed of rushes which had been +recently occupied. On removing a piece of bark and lifting the rushes, I +ascertained, on thrusting my sabre into the hollow loose earth under +them, that this bed covered a grave. + +Tommy Came-first, who was with me, pronounced this to be the work of a +white man; but by the time I had finished a sketch of it The Widow had +hailed him from the woods and told him that it was a grave, after which I +could not prevail on him to approach the spot. I carefully replaced the +bark, anxious that no disturbance of the repose of the dead should +accompany the prints of the white man's feet. I afterwards learnt from +The Widow that the rushes within that solitary tomb were actually the +nightly bed of some near relative or friend of the deceased (probably a +brother) and that the body was thus watched and attended in the grave +through the process of corruption or, as Piper interpreted her account, +until no flesh remains on the bones; "and then he yan (i.e. goes) away!" +No fire, the constant concomitant of places of shelter, had ever been +made within this abode alike of the living and the dead, although remains +of several recent fires appeared on the heath outside. + +DEAD TREES AMONG THE REEDS. + +In the afternoon we came upon the river where rich weeds and lofty reeds +enveloped a soft luxuriant soil. The yarra, or bluegum, not only grew on +its banks, but spread over the flats; but I remarked that where the reeds +grew thickest most of the trees were dead; and that almost all bore on +their trunks the marks of inundation. These dead trees among reeds +suggest several questions: Were they killed by the frequent burning of +the reeds in summer? If so, how came they to grow first to such a size +among them? Or did excess of moisture or its long continuance kill them? +Are seasons now different from those which must have admitted of the +growth of these trees for half a century? Or have changes in the levels +of the deposits made by the larger rivers below, produced inundations +above, to a greater extent than they had spread formerly? + +I was returning with the overseer from examining the country some miles +in advance of the carts, and with the intention of encamping where I had +left them halted, when I found the men had followed my track into some +bad ground. After extricating them from it I proceeded three miles +further to Bidyengoga, which we did not reach until dark. Water was found +in the bed of the Lachlan on our penetrating through a broad margin of +reeds towards some lofty yarra trees. Latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes 17 +seconds South; longitude 144 degrees 18 minutes East. + +VISIT SOME RISING GROUND. + +May 11. + +Rising ground appeared on the horizon about four miles to the north-west, +and an intervening plain of firm clay covered with atriplex and salsolae +rose towards it from the very margin of the reedy basin of the river. +Although anxious to see the junction of the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee, +curiosity irresistible led me to the rising ground, while Mr. Stapylton +traced the supposed line of the Lachlan and the overseer conducted the +carts and party westward. Unlike the hills I had seen on the limits of +interior plains elsewhere, the ridge I now visited consisted of the same +rich loam as the plains themselves. + +VIEW NORTHWARD. + +It was connected with other low ridges which extended in a north-western +direction into a country finely diversified with hill, dale, and patches +of wood, but in all probability at that time entirely without water. The +dry bed of a lake lay in a valley immediately north of the hills on which +I stood. A few trees of stunted appearance alone grew in the hollow. On +the top of this ridge I ate a russet apple which had grown in my garden +at Sydney, and I planted the seeds in a spot of rich earth likely to be +saturated with water as often as it fell from the heavens. + +DIFFICULTIES IN FINDING EITHER OF THE RIVERS OR ANY WATER. + +Southward I could see no trace of the Lachlan, and I hastened towards the +highest trees where I thought it turned in that direction. I thus met the +track of the carts at rightangles and galloped after them as they were +driving through scrubs and over heaths away to the westward. When I +overtook them I found that Mr. Stapylton had crossed over to them and +told Burnett to say to me that he had not seen the Lachlan. + +SEARCH FOR THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +A row of lofty yarra trees appeared to the southward and, as I expected +to find the Murrumbidgee among them, I directed my course thither, +travelling to the westward of south as well as any appearance of water +would allow. We passed through a scrub which swarmed with kangaroos, +bronze-wing pigeons, and cockatoos; also by a rather singular hollow +resembling the bed of a dry lake, in which we found several grasses +apparently new and very beautiful,* together with a low but +wide-spreading bush which bore a fruit resembling a cherry in size and +taste, but with a more elongated stone. + +(*Footnote. A Poa near P. australis, R. Br. and Bromus australis of R. +Br.) + +After descending into what I had thought was the bed of a river we found +unequal ground and saw, at a distance, patches of reeds, also lofty yarra +trees growing all about. On reaching the reeds we found they filled only +very slight hollows in the surface and, after passing through them, we +crossed another firm plain with atriplex and salsolae. No river was to be +seen, but another line of trees bounded this plain, exactly like those on +the banks of streams, and on reaching it I felt confident of finding +water; but on the contrary there was only an open forest of goodly trees +without the least indication of it. + +A NIGHT WITHOUT WATER. + +The sun had now set and I directed the people to encamp while I rode +forward in search of this river. Passing through a thick scrub I observed +another line of river trees, but I penetrated their shades with no better +success than before. + +HEAVY FALL OF RAIN. + +A dark and stormy night of wind and rain closed over us and, +notwithstanding the want of water which we were again destined to +experience, we got wet enough before we regained the camp. Mr. Stapylton +had arrived there before me without having seen either the Lachlan or the +Murrumbidgee in the course he had taken, and as the general bearings and +directions I had given him did not admit of his deviating too far from +the route of the carts he had been obliged to return unsuccessful. After +so long a day's journey the cattle were doomed to pass another night +yoked up, although surrounded by luxuriant pasture, for thus only could +we prevent them from straying in search of water. The rain however +moistened the grass on this as on three former occasions when we had +suffered the same privation; and the cattle were ordered to be loosened +to feed at the earliest dawn. + +May 12. + +It had rained heavily during the night so that water was no longer +scarce. The canoe brought from Waljeers had been placed to receive the +rain and conduct it into a cask which was thus filled. + +TWO MEN MISSING. + +On getting up I learnt that two men had set off in quest of water and had +been absent all night. That they should have taken this step without +first asking permission was wrong, but that nobody had mentioned the +circumstance to me till then was still more vexatious as, by firing shots +and throwing up rockets, these men might have found their way back in the +dark. I was very glad however to hear them at length answer our shots, +and not at all sorry to see them come in thoroughly drenched with the +empty kettles on their shoulders. After this I learnt, when we were about +to start, that six of the bullocks had got away; Piper however managed to +trace and bring them back. The weather then cleared up and we proceeded, +in a south-west direction as nearly as patches of scrub permitted, in +search of the Murrumbidgee; for I was then convinced, from the different +appearance of the country, that we had got beyond the junction of the +Lachlan. On passing the scrubs we crossed a plain of the same kind which +we had so often met. It sloped towards a belt of large trees in a flat, +where we also saw reeds, the ground there being very soft and heavy for +the draught animals. Passing this flat we again reached firm ground with +stately yarra trees; and charming vistas through miles of open forest +scenery had indeed nearly drawn me away from the bearing which was +otherwise most likely to hit the river. + +REACH THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +I however continued to follow it and, in the midst of such scenery +without being at all aware that I was approaching a river, I suddenly saw +the water before me and stood at last on the banks of the Murrumbidgee. + +This magnificent stream was flowing within eight feet of its banks with +considerable rapidity, the water being quite clear; and it really +exceeded so much my expectations (surpassing far the Darling and all the +Australian rivers I had then seen) that I was at first inclined to think +it could be nothing less than the Murray which, like the Darling, might +have been laid down too far to the west. At all events I was delighted to +find that this corner of Australia could supply at least one river worthy +of the name. After thirsting so long amongst the muddy holes of the +Lachlan I witnessed, with no slight degree of satisfaction, the jaded +cattle drinking at this full and flowing stream, resembling a thing of +life in its deep and rippling waters. Now at length there was an end to +the privations we had so often suffered from want of water; and the bank +was also clothed with excellent grass--a pleasing sight for the cattle. +Reeds appeared in patches back from the river but, unlike the banks of +the Darling, the best and clearest ground was on the immediate margin of +the Murrumbidgee. + +NATIVES ON THE OPPOSITE BANK. + +Piper, with that keenness of vision so peculiar in savages, soon descried +some natives on the other side, and pointed out to me a tribe filing in a +straggling line through the woods at a distance. I made him cooey to +them, they answered the call, and in a short time appeared on the +opposite bank. Our first interview with these sons of the woods was +highly creditable to them. They advanced in a numerous group, but in a +silent and submissive manner, each having a green bough twined round the +waist or in his hand. They sat down on the opposite bank and The Widow, +having taken a position exactly facing them, held a parley which +commenced before I could get to the spot. It was now that we learnt the +full value of this female, for it appeared that while some diffidence or +ceremony always prevents the male natives, when strangers to each other, +from speaking at first sight, no such restraint is imposed on the gins; +who with the privilege of their sex are ever ready to speak, and the +strangers as it seemed to answer; for thus at least we held converse with +this tribe across the river. Our female guide, who had scarcely before +ventured to look up, stood now boldly forward and addressed the strange +tribe in a very animated and apparently eloquent manner; and when her +countenance was thus lighted up, displaying fine teeth and great +earnestness of manner, I was delighted to perceive what soul the woman +possessed, and could not but consider our party fortunate in having met +with such an interpreter. + +THEY SWIM ACROSS. + +At length the strangers proposed swimming over to us and we invited them +to do so. + +AFRAID OF THE SHEEP. + +They then requested that those wild animals, the sheep and horses, might +be driven away, at which The Widow and Piper's gin laughed heartily, but +they were removed accordingly. The warriors of the Murrumbidgee were +about to plunge into the angry flood, desirous, no doubt, of showing off +like so many Caesars before these females, but their fears of the sheep, +which they could not hide, must have said little for their prowess in the +eyes of the damsels on our side of the water. The weather was cold, but +the stranger who first swam across bore in one hand a piece of burning +wood and a green branch. He was no sooner landed than he converted his +embers into a fire to dry himself. Immediately after him followed a +grey-haired chief (of whom I had heard on the Lachlan) and two others. It +appeared however that Piper did not at first understand their language, +saying it was "Irish"; but it happened that there was with this tribe a +native of Cudjallagong (Regent's lake) and it was rather curious to see +him act as interpreter between Piper and the others. + +THEIR REPORTS ABOUT THE JUNCTION OF THE DARLING. + +We learnt that the Murrumbidgee joined a much larger river named the +Milliwa, a good way lower down, and that these united streams met, at a +still greater distance, the Oolawambiloa, a river from the north which +received a smaller one, bringing with it all the waters of Wamboul (the +Macquarie). These natives proposed to amuse us with a corrobory dance, to +which I did not object, but they postponed it until the following +evening. + +SEARCH UP THE RIVER FOR JUNCTION OF THE LACHLAN. + +May 13. + +Having been very anxious to complete my survey of the Kalare by +determining the true situation of its junction with the Murrumbidgee, I +set out this morning with the intention of tracing this river upwards to +that point, which I thought could not be at a greater distance than ten +or twelve miles. We sought it however in vain, until darkness put a stop +to our progress after we had measured full twenty miles. We lay down by +the riverside and, although entirely without either food or shelter, +determined to prosecute our search at daylight next morning. + +COURSE OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +May 14. + +Having laid down our work on the map last evening (by the light of the +fire) I found that we were to the eastward, not only of our late camp +where we had wanted water, but also even of our last camp on the Lachlan, +and to the southward of it thirteen miles. It thus appeared that the +river had taken a very extraordinary turn to the south or south-east, +probably near our last encampment upon it. After measuring three miles +further this morning, by which I was enabled to intersect a low hill in +the situation where I expected to find the Kalare, and being then on a +bend of the Murrumbidgee whence I could see no other indication of it +save the line of trees some miles off, in which however it no doubt was, +the whole intervening space being covered with Polygonum junceum, I was +content with intersecting the point where that line joined the +Murrumbidgee, chiefly out of consideration for the men who were with me. +It was well that I then determined to return, for one man became so +faint, when within a few miles of the camp, that the two others had to +remain with him until I rode forward to it and sent back the doctor with +something for them to eat. + +The course of the Murrumbidgee, as far as I traced it in that excursion, +appeared to be about west, and I distinctly saw, from the highest point I +attained on that river, rising ground at a great distance also bearing +east. Under these circumstances it was obvious that the long course of +the river Lachlan is in no part better defined than where it enters the +basin of the Murrumbidgee. Water, which had been so scarce in other +parts, was abundant where its channel and immediate margins assumed the +reedy character of the greater river. So far from terminating in a lagoon +or uninhabitable marsh, the banks of the Lachlan at fifty miles below the +spot where Mr. Oxley supposed he saw its termination as a river, are +backed on both sides by rising ground, until the course turns finally +southward into the Murrumbidgee. + +TRIBE FROM CUDJALLAGONG VISITS THE CAMP IN MY ABSENCE. + +On my arrival at the camp I found that six of the party mounted had set +out in search of me at midday. A strong tribe had arrived soon after my +departure and, in conjunction with those natives whom we found there, it +had been molesting the camp during the whole of the night. On first +coming up the men composing it boldly approached the fires and took their +seats, demanding something to eat. + +MOVEMENTS OF THE TRIBE. + +It appeared that they had followed our cart track downwards, having with +them a native of Cudjallagong. They inquired particularly why Majy had +gone to the junction of the Kalare with so few people; and they gave a +very unfavourable account of the tribe at that place. This alarmed Mr. +Stapylton, and when he observed the tribe set off in the morning, back +along the cart track, he despatched the party on horseback under Burnett +with orders to observe the movements of the tribe, to look for my track +and, if possible, to join me. The party returned to the camp about eight +in the evening, to my great satisfaction, for I had been apprehensive +that they might have proceeded to seek me at the junction and I had +despatched two men to recall them as soon as I returned. + +CAUGHT FOLLOWING MY STEPS. + +Burnett reported when he returned that he had found our track after +making a considerable circuit five or six miles from the camp; and as +Piper, who accompanied him, was tracing my steps homewards, on perceiving +some natives running along it, he concluded that we were just before them +and sounded the bugle, when they proved to be the tribe before mentioned, +all armed with spears. What their object was I cannot say, for three of +them had been trotting along the footmarks, while the rest of the tribe +in a body kept pace abreast of them. On hearing the bugle it appeared +that they seemed much alarmed and drew up at a distance. + +PIPER QUESTIONS THEM. + +They would not allow Piper to approach them, but one at length came +forward and informed him that Majy was gone home. Piper was so dubious +about this that he insisted on examining the points of their spears. + +During the nights passed at this camp the natives were on the alert, so +that their various movements, cooeys, and calls kept the party in a state +of watchfulness, aware, as experience had taught us, of their thieving +propensities. Some rockets sent up about the time I was expected on the +evening of our absence had however scared them a little; and it is +probable that the man from Cudjallagong had given them new ideas about +soldiers. Piper's watchword, also, when taking up his carabine, usually +was "Bell gammon soldiers."* They left the neighbourhood of our camp on +my return and we saw no more of the tribe which had followed me. + +(*Footnote. Meaning Soldiers are no joke!) + + +CHAPTER 3.4. + +The Murrumbidgee compared with other rivers. +Heaps of stones used in cooking. +High reeds on the riverbank. +Lake Weromba. +Native encampment. +Riverbanks of difficult access. +Best horse drowned. +Cross a country subject to inundations. +Traverse a barren region at some distance from the river. +Kangaroos there. +Another horse in the river. +Lagoons preferable to the river for watering cattle. +High wind, dangerous in a camp under trees. +Serious accident; a cartwheel passes over The Widow's child. +Graves of the natives. +Choose a position for the depot. +My horse killed by the kick of a mare. +Proceed to the Darling with a portion of the party. +Reach the Murray. +Its breadth at our camp. +Meet with a tribe. +Lake Benanee. +Discover the natives to be those last seen on the Darling. +Harassing night in their presence. +Piper alarmed. +Rockets fired to scare them away. +They again advance in the morning. +Men advance towards them holding up their firearms. +They retire, and we continue our journey. +Again followed by the natives. +Danger of the party. +Long march through a scrubby country. +Dismal prospect. +Night without water or grass. +Heavy rain. +Again make the Murray. +Strange natives visit the camp at dusk. + +THE MURRUMBIDGEE COMPARED WITH OTHER RIVERS. + +May 15. + +The night had been stormy with rain so that I had not been able to +ascertain the latitude of the point at which we had reached this +important river. It was Sunday and, although the two men sent after +Burnett's party had come in early enough, we remained in the same camp. I +had already been struck with the remarkable dissimilarity between the +Murrumbidgee and all the interior rivers previously seen by me, +especially the Darling. The constant fulness of its stream, its +water-worn and lightly-timbered banks, and the firm and accessible nature +of its immediate margin, unbroken by gullies, were all characters quite +the reverse of those which I had seen elsewhere. Whatever reeds or +polygonum might be outside, a certain space along the river was almost +everywhere clear, probably from its constant occupation by the natives. + +HEAPS OF STONES USED IN COOKING. + +One artificial feature not observed by me in other places distinguishes +the localities principally frequented by the natives, and consists in the +lofty mounds of burnt clay or ashes used by them in cooking. The common +process of natives in dressing their provisions is to lay the food +between layers of heated stones; but here, where there are no stones, the +calcined clay seems to answer the same purpose, and becomes better or +harder the more it is used. Hence the accumulation of heaps resembling +small hills.* Some of them were so very ancient as to be surrounded by +circles of lofty trees; others, long abandoned, were half worn away by +the river which, in the course of ages, had so far changed its bed that +the burnt ashes reached out to mid-channel; others, now very remote from +the river, had large trees growing out of them. + +(*Footnote. And Jacob said unto his brethren, Gather stones: and they +took stones, and made a heap, and they did eat there upon the heap. +Genesis 31:46. "Thevenot describes the way of roasting a sheep, practised +by the Armenians, by which also the use of smoky wood is avoided; for +having flayed it, they cover it again with the skin, and put it into an +oven upon the quick coals, covering it also with a good many of the same +coals, that it may have fire under and over to roast it well on all +sides; and the skin keeps it from being burnt." Harmer. Whoever has seen +the Australian natives cook a kangaroo must recognise in this description +the very same process.) + +HIGH REEDS ON THE RIVERBANK. + +I saw the first of these heaps when near the end of the last day's +journey along the Lachlan, where this river partook of the reedy +character of the Murrumbidgee. I understood that the balyan or +bulrush-root which is the chief food of the natives there is prepared in +those kilns when a family or tribe are together. I ascertained the name +of the place to be Weyeba; its latitude is 34 degrees 21 minutes 34 +seconds South; longitude 143 degrees 56 minutes 27 seconds East. + +May 16. + +We commenced our journey down the Murrumbidgee. Our route passed +occasionally through reeds as we cut off the bends of the river; but they +formed no serious impediment although they stood so high that we +occasionally experienced some difficulty in following each other through +them. Having found, after surveying the river a few miles down, that the +general course was about south-west, as I had also found it to be above +our camp, I followed that direction as a general line of route, leaving +the river at length at some distance to the left. The country looked +well, lofty yarra trees and luxuriant grass giving it the appearance of +fine forest land; but most of these trees bore marks of inundation, and +the water appeared to have reached several feet up their trunks. At +length I came on a native path conducting westward; but as it led to +rising ground with Atriplex halimoides, etc., I bent our course to the +south and reached the river at sunset. + +LAKE WEROMBA. + +Burnett and Piper followed the native path until they came to the bed of +a fine lake about half a mile across, and they met some natives who told +them that the name of it was Weromba. Mr. Stapylton also discovered a +small lake of the same sort near our route and south of the other. Both +sheets of water, like that of Waljeers, were surrounded by a ridge of +rising ground consisting of the red earth of the dry plains, and it was +covered with the salsolaceous shrubs peculiar to them. These lakes seem +to be supplied only from the highest floods of the river, and to +constitute a remarkable and peculiar feature in the character of the +surface. I had been informed of a very large one of the same kind named +Quawingame near the left bank of the Lachlan, and not far from its +junction with the Murrumbidgee; but the singular turn of the +first-mentioned river prevented me from seeing it. + +NATIVE ENCAMPMENT. + +As we drew near the river I perceived the huts of a tribe with a fire +smoking before each. I immediately sent back for the gins, but before +they could come up the natives whom we saw there noticed us and +immediately disappeared among the reeds, shrieking as if they had been +mad. Our females soon after approached their huts and called on them to +return, but in vain. + +RIVERBANKS OF DIFFICULT ACCESS. BEST HORSE DROWNED. + +A misfortune befel us this evening which made the party better aware of +the treacherous nature of the banks of this part of the Murrumbidgee. I +had just time before it got dark to find a place where the cattle could +approach the water, the banks being almost everywhere water-worn and +perpendicular, and consequently inaccessible and dangerous to animals in +descending to drink. To this point I had sent the sheep, and the men were +leading the horses also towards it when the foremost, which unfortunately +was the best, made a rush to the water at a steeper place, and fell into +the river. He swam however to the other side but, in returning, sank in +the middle of the stream, never to rise again. He had winkers on and I +think it probable that he had put his foot into a short rein which was +attached to the collar. This horse was of the Clydesdale breed and drew +the cart containing my instruments throughout the journey along the +Darling last year. His name was Farmer--an unfortunate appellation for +surveying horses--for Farmer's Creek, in the new road to Bathurst, was +named after another horse which fell there and broke his neck while I was +marking out the line. + +CROSS A COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATIONS. + +The land adjacent to the river was of the richest quality; and the grass +on it was luxuriant and the forest scenery fine. The lofty trees +certainly bore marks of inundation one or two feet high; but as land +still higher was not far distant it cannot be doubted, notwithstanding +its liability to become flooded, that the soil might supply the wants of +an industrious population; especially as its spontaneous productions are +the chief support of the aboriginal inhabitants. + +TRAVERSE A BARREN REGION AT SOME DISTANCE FROM THE RIVER. + +May 17. + +A beautiful morning. The latitude of this camp being exactly that of the +most southern bend of the river in Arrowsmith's map, I ventured upon a +course nearly west in order to clear the bends. The lofty trees I had +seen before me were found to be situated, not on the banks of the river, +but amongst scrubs. We afterwards came to sandhills and extensive tracts +covered with that most unpleasing of shrubs to a traveller, the +Eucalyptus dumosa, and the prickly grass mentioned by Mr. Oxley. We +traversed ridges of sand rising perhaps sixty feet above the plains, +nearer the river; and, when viewed from trees, the same kind of country +seemed unlimited in all directions. I therefore travelled +south-south-west and afterwards southward; until we once more entered +among the yarra trees on the more open ground by the river, and encamped +after a journey of about twelve miles. The country we had this day +traversed was of so unpromising a description that it was a relief to get +even amongst common scrubs, and escape from those of the Eucalyptus +dumosa. This species is not a tree but a lofty bush with a great number +of stems, each two or three inches in diameter; and the bushes grow +thickly together, having between them nothing but the prickly grass in +large tufts. This dwarf wood approached to the very river, where we +encamped without leaving an intermediate plain, as on the Lachlan. In +this country, however dreary it appeared, we found a beautiful grevillea +not previously seen by us. + +KANGAROOS THERE. + +During the day we saw also a great many kangaroos and killed two of them. + +ANOTHER HORSE IN THE RIVER. + +Notwithstanding every precaution in watering the cattle, and at a place +selected too as the best that could be found after a careful examination +of two miles of the river, one of the horses fell in; but on this +occasion it was safely got out again. The abundance of water, though a +novelty to us, was a source of new trouble and anxiety from the danger +our cattle were in of being drowned, owing to the precipitous banks and +soft mud of the river. This peril was indeed so imminent that in the +morning it was thought most prudent to water all the horses with a +bucket, and not to risk the loss of the bullocks by suffering them to +drink at all. + +May 18. + +Being determined to keep the river in sight, we this day continued our +journey along its margin. I found we could follow the general course +without entering bends by travelling at the base of a second bank, which +seemed to divide the yarra-tree flats from the scrubby ground behind. + +LAGOONS PREFERABLE TO THE RIVER FOR WATERING CATTLE. + +We came thus upon some rainwater in the clay of the plains which, being +sufficient to satisfy the bullocks, we gladly availed ourselves of the +opportunity it afforded of watering them without unyoking. After +proceeding about three miles further we saw a lagoon between us and the +Murrumbidgee. It resembled a bend of the river, and contained abundance +of water on which were three pelicans and a number of ducks. When we had +travelled nearly far enough to encamp, we came on two other lagoons of +the same kind, similarly situated and both containing water. The grass +being good, I determined to pitch our tents between them, as the cattle +might thus be watered for one night at least without the risk of being +bogged or drowned. These lagoons looked like different bends of a river, +although we saw the ends of both and passed on firm ground between them. +It was evident however that they could only be supplied by the +inundations of the river. On this day we killed a kangaroo. + +HIGH WIND, DANGEROUS IN A CAMP UNDER TREES. + +May 19. + +During the night the weather was tempestuous; at three A.M. it blew a +hurricane and the rain fell heavily afterwards. I was not sorry when the +wind abated for we were so confined for room between the two lagoons that +my tent had been pitched, and most of our encampment placed, unavoidably +under a large yarra tree, a very unsafe position during high winds, but +fortunately no branches fell. In the morning, after proceeding about a +mile, another lagoon lay before us, which was full of water and indeed +terminated in the river. We avoided it by turning to the right and +gaining the higher ground above the level of floods. We continued along +this upper land, thus crossing two small plains; but soon after, being +apprehensive of going too far from the river, we again entered the open +forest of yarra trees which marked so distinctly its immediate margin. At +3 1/2 miles we passed a bend of the river, full of dead trees, the banks +being quite perpendicular and loose. After reaching another bend three +miles further we noticed two lagoons, apparently the remains of an +ancient channel of the river; and at ten miles we came upon a creek as +capacious as the Lachlan and full of large ponds of water. Mr. Stapylton +examined this creek some way up and he found that it came from the +north-east; and on arriving at a favourable place I crossed with the +party and encamped, the day having been very rainy and cold. We soon +discovered that this channel was only a branch of one from the north and, +the latter being very deep, I determined to halt next day, that its +course might be explored while the men made a fit passage across it for +the carts. + +May 20. + +This morning the weather appeared beautifully serene; and the barometer +had risen higher than I had ever seen it on this side of the mountains. +Mr. Stapylton, who left the camp in the morning, returned about sunset +after exploring the creek through a very tortuous course, more or less to +the northward of west. He had also ascertained that it supplied a small +lake about eight miles to the westward of our camp, whence he had +perceived its course bending again towards the river, of which he in fact +considered it only a branch: and I therefore concluded that the ponds of +water so abundant in it were but the remains of a flood in the +Murrumbidgee. + +May 21. + +A good passageway having been made, we crossed the watercourse and +proceeded towards Lake Stapylton as I understood that there we might +easily recross. I was informed by Burnett that when the journey commenced +this morning the gins in the bush had not responded to Piper's call until +after such a search as convinced him that both intended to leave the +party. He said that in such cases the law of the aborigines was that the +two first attempts of a wife to leave her husband might be punished by a +beating, but that for the third offence he might put her to death. On the +way we traversed the head of a creek somewhat similar to the last, at a +place where it was nearly level with the plain although, just below, it +contained a fine reach of water obviously supplied by the river. + +SERIOUS ACCIDENT; A CARTWHEEL PASSES OVER THE WIDOW'S CHILD. + +Here an unfortunate accident befel the little native child Ballandella +who fell from a cart and, one of the wheels passing over, broke her +thigh. On riding up I found The Widow her mother in great distress, +prostrate in the dust with her head under the limb of the unfortunate +child. I made the doctor set it immediately; but the femora having been +broken very near the socket, it was found difficult to bandage the limb +so as to keep the bone in its place. Every care however was taken of the +poor little infant that circumstances would allow; and she bore the pain +with admirable patience though only four years old. In her cries on first +meeting with the accident she was heard to call for Majy, a curious +instance of this child's sense at so early an age. + +I found that the ground near the lake afforded so good a position for a +depot that I encamped upon it with the intention of ascertaining what +grass the neighbourhood afforded, and how the situation was likely to +answer this purpose in other respects. It had been latterly my intention +to leave the carts, boats, and most of the cattle in a depot at the +junction of the Murrumbidgee and Murray; and to proceed with two light +carts only and a month's provisions to complete the survey of the +Darling. We were now, I considered, within three days' journey, at most, +of that junction (according to Arrowsmith's map) and as these rivers were +dangerous to the cattle, and their banks much frequented by the natives, +such a place as this seemed more convenient and secure for a temporary +depot. + +GRAVES OF THE NATIVES. + +On the rising ground near our camp were several graves, all inclosed in +separate parterres of exactly the same remarkable double or triple ridges +as those first seen on the lower part of the Lachlan. There were three of +these parterres all lying due east and west. On one, evidently the most +recent, the ashes of a hut appeared over the grave. On another, which +contained two graves (one of a small child) logs of wood mixed with long +grass were neatly piled transversely; and in the third, which was so +ancient that the enclosing ridges were barely visible, the grave had sunk +into a grassy hollow. I understood from The Widow that such tombs were +made for men and boys only, and that the ashes over the most recent one +were the remains of the hut which had been burnt and abandoned after the +murder of the person whose body was buried beneath had been avenged by +the tribe to whom the brother or relative keeping it company above ground +had belonged. + +CHOOSE A POSITION FOR THE DEPOT. + +May 22. + +This morning the bullock-drivers gave so favourable an account of the +pasture that I determined to leave a depot there and to set out next +morning with the rest of the party for the Darling. The day was therefore +passed in making the necessary arrangements. I proposed leaving Mr. +Stapylton with eight trusty men; and to take with me the rest, consisting +of fifteen, including Burnett and Piper. I calculated on being absent +four weeks at most; and rations for the supply of the party for that time +were immediately weighed out and packed, along with our tents, in two +light carts which were to be drawn by five bullocks each. Thus I expected +to be able to travel fifteen miles a day; and to have the men in better +order for dealing with the fire-eaters of the Darling than when they were +all occupied as bullock-drivers, carters, etc. etc. + +MY HORSE KILLED BY THE KICK OF A MARE. + +May 23. + +Before I got up this morning I was informed that the same unlucky mare +which had already caused the death of one of the horses had just broken +the thigh of my own horse; and thus I was forced to have it shot when it +was in better condition than usual, having been spared from working much +for some time that it might be fresh for this excursion. Such an +inauspicious event on the morning of my intended departure for the +Darling was by no means encouraging. I left The Widow at the depot camp, +having given directions that she should have rations and that every care +should be taken of the child whose broken limb had been set and bound to +a board in such a manner that the little patient could not, by moving, +disturb the bone in healing. Mr. Stapylton was aware of the necessity for +preventing The Widow from going back just then, lest she might have +fallen into the hands of any pilfering tribe likely to follow us. The +accident which had befallen Ballandella (of whom she was very fond) was +however likely to be a tie on her, at least until our return; for it +would have been very injurious to have moved the child in less than +several weeks. A stockyard was to be erected for the cattle that they +might be brought up there every night during our absence; and the men +appointed to remain at the depot were told off in watches for the cattle +and camp. + +PROCEED TO THE DARLING WITH A PORTION OF THE PARTY. + +Mr. Stapylton and I then separated with a mutual and most sincere wish +that we should meet again as soon as possible. The position of the camp +was excellent, being on the elevated edge of a plain overlooking an +extensive reach of water, and surrounded with grass in greater abundance +and variety than we had seen in any part for some time. + +During our progress this day we were for some miles in danger of being +shut in by the creek extending from the lake, as it increased +prodigiously and at length resembled a still reach of the Murrumbidgee +itself. After crossing it several times I was fortunate enough to be able +to keep the right bank, by which we got clear, passing along the edge of +a slight fall which looked like the berg of the main stream. + +REACH THE MURRAY. + +At 7 1/2 miles we crossed ground of a more open character than any we had +seen for some days; and it appeared to belong to the river margin, as it +was marked by some yarra trees. On approaching this river I judged, from +the breadth of its channel, that we were already on the banks of the +Murray. Thus without making any detour, and much sooner than I had reason +to expect from the engraved map, we had reached the Murray, and our depot +thus proved to be in the best situation for subsequently crossing that +river at its junction with the Murrumbidgee, as originally intended. +Leaving a little plain on our right, we entered the goborro or box-forest +with the intention of keeping near the river; but from this we had to +recede on meeting with a small but deep branch of the stream with some +water in it. Proceeding next directly towards some high trees at the +western extremity of the plains, we reached a favourable bend of the +Murray and there encamped. + +ITS BREADTH AT OUR CAMP. DESCRIPTION OF ITS BANKS. + +This magnificent stream was 165 yards broad, its waters were whitish, as +if tinged with some flood; the height of the red bank, not subject to +inundation, was 25 feet and by comparing these measurements with the +Murrumbidgee, which at Weyeba was 50 yards wide, with banks 11 feet high +(and that seemed a fine river) some idea may be formed of the Murray.* At +the place where we encamped the river had no bergs, for its bank +consisted of the common red earth covered with the acacia bushes and +scrub of the interior plains. The land at the point opposite was lower +and sandy, and a slight rapid was occasioned in the stream by a ridge of +ironstone. + +(*Footnote. See comparative sections of these and other rivers to one +scale on the General Map in Volume 1.) + +May 24. + +It was quite impossible to say on what part of the Murray, as laid down +by Captain Sturt, we had arrived; and we were therefore obliged to feel +our way just as cautiously as if we had been upon a river unexplored. The +ground was indeed a tolerable guide, especially after we found that this +river also had bergs which marked the line of separation between the +desert plain or scrub and the good grassy forest-land of which the +river-margin consisted. As we proceeded I found it best to keep along the +bergs as much as possible in order to avoid ana-branches* of the river. +Where the bergs receded forest land with the goborro or dwarf-box +intervened. In travelling over ground of this description we crossed, at +two miles from the camp, a dry creek or branch, and another at a mile and +a quarter further. + +(*Footnote. Having experienced on this journey the inconvenient want of +terms relative to rivers I determined to use such of those recommended by +Colonel Jackson in his able paper on the subject, in the Journal of the +Royal Geographical Society for 1833, as I might find necessary. They are +these: +Tributary: Any stream adding to the main trunk. +Ana-branches: Such as after separation unite. +Berg, bergs: Heights now at some distance, once the immediate banks of a +river or lake. +Bank: That part washed by the existing stream. +Border: The vegetation at the water's edge, forest trees, or quays of +granite, etc. +Brink: The water's edge. +Margin: The space between the brinks and the bergs.) + +MEET WITH A TRIBE. + +Soon after we entered a small plain bounded on the west by another dry +channel, and beyond this we were prevented from continuing in the +direction in which I wished to travel by a creek full of water, obliging +us to turn northward and eastward of north until I at length found a +crossing-place, and just as we perceived smoke at some distance beyond +the other bank. To this smoke Piper had hastened, and when I reached a +plain beyond the creek I saw him carrying on a flying conversation with +an old man and several gins who were retiring in a north-west direction +to a wood about a mile distant. + +LAKE BENANEE. + +This wood we also at length reached, and we found that it encircled a +beautiful lake full sixteen miles in circumference and swarming with +natives both on the beach and in canoes. + +The alarm of our arrival was then resounding among the natives whom I saw +in great numbers along its western shores. This lake, like all those we +had previously seen, was surrounded by a ridge of red earth, rather +higher than the adjacent plains, and it was evidently fed, during high +floods, by the creek we had crossed. I travelled due west from the berg +of this lake along the plain which extended in that direction a mile and +three-quarters. We then came to another woody hollow or channel in which +I could at first see only a field of polygonum, although we soon found in +it a broad deep reach of still water. In tracing it to the left or from +the lake towards the river, we found it increased so much in width and +depth, after tracing it three-quarters of a mile, that a passage in that +direction seemed quite out of the question. Many of the natives who had +followed us in a body from the lake overtook us here. They assured Piper +that we were near the junction of this piece of water with the Millewa +(Murray) and that in the opposite direction, or towards the lake, they +could show us a ford. We accordingly turned and we came to a narrow place +where the natives had a fish-net set across. On seeing us preparing to +pass through the ford, they told Piper that, at a point still higher up, +we might cross where the channel was dry. Thither therefore we went, the +natives accompanying us in considerable numbers, but each carrying a +green bough. Among them were several old men who took the most active +part and who were very remarkable from the bushy fulness and whiteness of +their beards and hair; the latter growing thickly on the back and +shoulders gave them a very singular appearance, and accorded well with +that patriarchal authority which the old men seem to maintain to an +astonishing degree among these native tribes. The aged chiefs from time +to time beckoned to us, repeating very often and fast at the same time +"goway, goway, goway," which, strange to say, means "come, come, come." +Their gesture and action being also precisely such as we should use in +calling out "go away!" We crossed the channel at length where the bed was +quite dry, and pitched our tents on the opposite side. + +DISCOVER THE NATIVES TO BE THOSE LAST SEEN ON THE DARLING. + +It will however be readily understood with what caution we followed these +natives when we discovered, almost as soon as we fell in with them, that +they were actually our old enemies from the Darling! I had certainly +heard, when still far up on the Lachlan, that these people were coming +down to fight us; but I little expected they were to be the first natives +we should meet with on the Murray, at a distance of nearly two hundred +miles from the scene of our former encounter. There was something so +false in a forced loud laugh, without any cause, which the more plausible +among them would frequently set up, that I was quite at a loss to +conceive what they meant by all this uncommon civility. In the course of +the afternoon they assembled their women and children in groups before +our camp, exactly as they had formerly done on the Darling; and one or +two small parties came in, whose arrival they seemed to watch with +particular attention, hailing them while still at a distance as if to +prevent mistakes. We now ascertained through Piper that the tribe had +fled precipitately from the Darling last year to the country westward, +and did not return until last summer, when they found the two bullocks we +left there; which, having become fat, they had killed and eaten. We also +ascertained that some of the natives then in the camp wore the teeth of +the slaughtered animals, and that they had much trouble in killing one of +them, as it was remarkably fierce. This we knew so well to the character +of one of the animals that we had always supposed it would baffle every +attempt of these savages to take it. + +In the group before me were pointed out two daughters of the gin which +had been killed, also a little boy, a son. The girls exactly resembled +each other and reminded me of the mother. The youngest was the handsomest +female I had ever seen amongst the natives. She was so far from black +that the red colour was very apparent in her cheeks. She sat before me in +a corner of the group, nearly in the attitude of Mr. Bailey's fine statue +of Eve at the fountain; and apparently equally unconscious that she was +naked. As I looked upon her for a moment, while deeply regretting the +fate of her mother, the chief who stood by, and whose hand had more than +once been laid upon my cap, as if to feel whether it were proof against +the blow of a waddy, begged me to accept her in exchange for a tomahawk! + +HARASSING NIGHT IN THEIR PRESENCE. + +The evening was one of much anxiety to the whole party. The fiendish +expression of some of these men's eyes shone horribly, and especially +when they endeavoured to disguise it by treacherous smiles. I did not see +the tall man nor the mischievous old one of last year; but there were +here many disposed to act like them. One miserable-looking dirty aged man +was brought forward, and particularly pointed out to me by the tribe. I +accordingly showed him the usual attention of sitting down and smoothing +the ground for him.* But he soon requested me to strip, on which I arose, +mindful of a former vow, and perceiving the blacksmith washing himself, I +called him up and pointed out the muscles of his arm to the curious sage. +The successor and brother, as the natives stated, of king Peter, was also +looking on, and I made Vulcan put himself into a sparring attitude and +tip him a touch or two, which made him fall back one or two paces, and +look half angry. We distinctly recognised the man who last year threw the +two spears at Muirhead; while on their part they evidently knew again +Charles King who, on that occasion, fired at the native from whose spears +Tom Jones so narrowly escaped. + +(*Footnote. Instead of handing a chair the equivalent of politeness with +Australian natives is to smooth down or remove with the foot any sharp +spikes or rubbish on the ground where you wish your friend to be seated +before you.) + +Night had closed in and these groups hung still about us, having also +lighted up five large fires which formed a cordon around our camp. Still +I did not interfere with them, relying chiefly on the sagacity and +vigilance of Piper whom I directed to be particularly on the alert. At +length Burnett came to inform me that they had sent away all their gins, +that there was no keeping them from the carts, and that they seemed bent +on mischief. + +PIPER ALARMED. + +Piper also took alarm and came to me inquiring, apparently with a +thoughtful sense of responsibility, what the Governor had said to me +about shooting blackfellows. "These," he continued, "are only Myalls" +(wild natives). His gin had overheard them arranging that three should +seize and strip him, while others attacked the tents. I told him the +Governor had said positively that I was not to shoot blackfellows unless +our own lives were in danger. I then went out--it was about eight +o'clock--and I saw one fellow, who had always been very forward, posted +behind our carts and speaking to Piper's wife. + +ROCKETS FIRED TO SCARE THEM AWAY. + +I ordered him away, then drew up the men in line and when, as +preconcerted, I sent up a rocket and the men gave three cheers, all the +blacks ran off, with the exception of one old man who lingered behind a +tree. They hailed us afterwards from the wood at a little distance where +they made fires, saying they were preparing to corrobory and inviting us +to be present. Piper told them to go on, and we heard something like a +beginning to the dance, but the hollow sounds they made resembled groans +more than any sort of music, and we saw that they did not, in fact, +proceed with the dance. It was necessary to establish a double watch that +night and indeed none of the men would take their clothes off. The most +favourable alternative that we could venture to hope for was that a +collision might be avoided till daylight. + +THEY AGAIN ADVANCE IN THE MORNING. + +May 25. + +The night passed without further molestation on the part of the natives; +but soon after daybreak they were seen advancing towards our camp. The +foremost was a powerful fellow in a cloak, to whom I had been introduced +by king Peter last year, and who was said to be his brother. Abreast of +him, but much more to the right, two of the old men, who had reached a +fallen tree near the tents, were busy setting fire to the withering +branches. Those who were further back seemed equally alert in setting +fire to the bush and, the wind coming from that quarter, we were likely +soon to be enveloped in smoke. I was then willing that the barbarians +should come again up, and anxious to act on the defensive as long as +possible; but when I saw what the old men were about I went into my tent +for my rifle and ordered all the men under arms. The old rascals, with +the sagacity of foxes, instantly observed and understood this movement +and retired. + +MEN ADVANCE TOWARDS THEM HOLDING UP THEIR FIREARMS. + +I then ordered eight men to advance towards the native camp, and to hold +up their muskets as if to show them to the natives, but not to fire +unless attacked, and to return at the sound of the bugle. + +THEY RETIRE, AND WE CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY. + +The savages took to their heels before these men who, following the +fugitives, disappeared for a time in the woods but returned at the bugle +call. This move, which I intended as a threat and as a warning that they +should not follow us, had at least the effect of giving us time to +breakfast, as Muirhead observed on coming back to the camp. + +AGAIN FOLLOWED BY THE NATIVES. DANGER OF THE PARTY. + +We afterwards moved forward on our journey as usual; but we had scarcely +proceeded a mile before we heard the savages in our rear and, on my +regaining the Murray, which we reached at about three miles, they were +already on the bank of that river, a little way above where we had come +upon it and consequently as we proceeded along its bank they were behind +us. They kept at a considerable distance; but I perceived through my +glass that the fellow with the cloak carried a heavy bundle of spears +before him. + +He comes, not in peace, O Cairbar: +For I have seen his forward spear. Ossian. + +LONG MARCH THROUGH A SCRUBBY COUNTRY. + +We were then upon a sloping bank or berg,* which was covered backwards +with thick scrub; below it lay a broad reach of still water in an old +channel of the river and which I, for some time, took to be the river +itself. It was most painfully alarming to discover that the knowledge +these savages had acquired of the nature of our arms, by the loss of +several lives last year, did not deter them from following us now with +the most hostile intentions. + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +DISMAL PROSPECT. + +We had endeavoured to prevent them, by the demonstration of sending the +men advancing with firearms, yet they still persisted; and Piper had +gathered from them that a portion of their tribe was still before us. Our +route lay along the bank of a river, peopled by other powerful tribes; +and at the end of 200 miles we could only hope to reach the spot where +the party already following in our rear had commenced the most unprovoked +hostility last season. I had then thought it unsafe to divide my party, +it was already divided now, and the cunning foe was between the two +portions; a more desperate situation therefore than this half of my party +was then in can scarcely be imagined. To attempt to conciliate these +people had last year proved hopeless. Our gifts had only excited their +cupidity, and our uncommon forbearance had only inspired them with a poor +opinion of our courage; while their meeting us in this place was a proof +that the effect of our arms had not been sufficient to convince them of +our superior strength. A drawn battle was out of the question, but I was +assured by Piper and the other young natives that we should soon lose +some of the men in charge of the cattle. Those faithful fellows, on whose +courage my own safety depended--some of them having already but narrowly +escaped the spears of these very savages on the former journey. We soon +discovered that the piece of water was not the river, by seeing the +barbarians passing along the other side of it; and I thereupon determined +to travel on as far as I could. The river taking a great sweep to the +southward, we proceeded some miles through an open forest of box or +goborro; and when I at length met with sandhills and the Eucalyptus +dumosa I continued to travel westward, not doubting but that I should +reach the Murray by pursuing that course. We looked in vain however +during the whole day for its lofty trees, and in fact crossed one of the +most barren regions in the world. + +NIGHT WITHOUT WATER OR GRASS. + +Not a spike of grass could be seen and the soil, a loose red sand, was in +most places covered with a scrub like a thick-set hedge of Eucalyptus +dumosa. Many a tree was ascended by Burnett, but nothing was to be seen +on any side different to what we found where we were. We travelled from +an early hour in the morning until darkness and a storm appeared to be +simultaneously drawing over us. I then hastened to the top of a small +sandhill to ascertain whether there was any adjacent open space where +even our tents might be pitched, and I cannot easily describe the +dreariness of the prospect that hill afforded. No signs of the river were +visible unless it might be near a few trees which resembled the masts of +distant ships on a dark and troubled sea; and equally hazardous now was +this land navigation, from our uncertainty as to the situation of the +river on which our finding water depended, and the certainty that, +wherever it was, there were our foes before us, exulting perhaps in the +thought that we were seeking to avoid them in this vile scrub. On all +sides the flat and barren waste blended imperceptibly with a sky as +dismal and ominous as ever closed in darkness. One bleak and sterile spot +hard by afforded ample room for our camp; but the cattle had neither +water nor any grass that night. + +HEAVY RAIN. + +A heavy squall set in and such torrents of rain descended as to supply +the men with water enough; and indeed this was not the only occasion +during the journey when we had been providentially supplied under similar +circumstances. + +May 26. + +It appeared that we had not, even in that desert, escaped the vigilance +of the natives, for Piper discovered, within three hundred yards of our +camp, the track of two who, having been there on the preceding evening, +had that morning returned towards the river. At an early hour we yoked up +our groaning cattle and proceeded, although the rain continued for some +time. I pursued by compass the bearing of the high trees I had seen, +though they were somewhat to the northward of west. + +AGAIN MAKE THE MURRAY. + +Exactly at five miles a green bank and, immediately after, the broad +expanse of the Murray, with luxuriantly verdant margins, came suddenly in +view on the horizon of the barren bush in which we had travelled upwards +of twenty-three miles, and which here approached the lofty bank of the +river. The green hill I had first seen afforded an excellent position for +our camp; and as the grass was good I halted for the rest of the day to +refresh the cattle. + +STRANGE NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP AT DUSK. + +Towards evening the natives were heard advancing along our track, and +seven came near the camp but remained on the river margin below, which +from our post on the hill we completely overlooked. Piper went to these +natives to ascertain if they were our enemies from the lake. He +recognised several whom he had seen there, and he invited them to come up +the hill; but when I saw them I could not, from their apparently candid +discourse, look upon them as enemies. They said that the tribe which we +had seen at Benanee did not belong to that part of the country, but had +come there to fight us, on hearing of our approach. One of them, who had +been seen at the lake, asked Piper several times why I did not attack +them when I had so good an opportunity, and he informed us that they were +the same tribe which intended to kill another white man (Captain Sturt) +in a canoe, at the junction of the rivers lower down. They also informed +us, on the inquiry being made, that the old man who then behaved so well +to the white men was lately dead, and that he had been much esteemed by +his tribe. I desired Piper to express to them how much we white men +respected him also. I afterwards handed to these people a fire-stick and, +pointing to the flat below, gave them to understand, through Piper, that +the tribe at Benanee had behaved so ill and riotously about our camp that +I could not allow any natives to sit down beside us at night. + + +CHAPTER 3.5. + +New and remarkable shrub. +Darling tribe again. +Their dispersion by the party. +Cross a tract intersected by deep lagoons. +Huts over tombs. +Another division of the Darling tribe. +Barren sands and the Eucalyptus dumosa. +Plants which grow on the sand and bind it down. +Fish caught. +Aspect of the country to the northward. +Strange natives from beyond the Murray. +They decamp during the night. +Reach the Darling and surprise a numerous tribe of natives. +Piper and his gin explain. +Search for the junction with the Murray. +Return by night. +Followed by the natives. +Horses take fright. +Break loose and run back. +Narrow escape of some men from natives. +Failure of their intended attack. +Different modes of interment. +Reduced appearance of the Darling. +Desert character of the country. +Rainy morning. +Return of the party. +Surprise the females of the tribe. +Junction of the Darling and Murray. +Effect of alternate floods there. + +NEW AND REMARKABLE SHRUB. + +May 27. + +In the scrub adjoining our camp we found a new and remarkably beautiful +shrub bearing a fruit, the stone of which was very similar to that of the +quandang (Fusanus acuminatus) although there was no resemblance either in +the form of the tree or of the flower. This shrub was not unlike the +weeping willow in its growth, and the fruit, which grew at the +extremities of the drooping branches, had the shape of a pear and a black +ring at the broad end. The crop then on the tree was unripe, and was +probably a second one; the flower was also budding, and we hoped to see +the full blossom on our return. Only three or four of these trees were +seen, and they were all on the hill near our encampment. Here likewise +grew a new shrubby species of Xerotes, with hard rush-like leaves, but +allied to X. gracilis.* + +(*Footnote. X. effusa, Lindley manuscripts; acaulis, foliis linearibus +longissimis semiteretibus margine scabris dorso striatis: apice dentato +tabescente, panicula mascula effusa abbreviata, bracteis acuminatis +scariosis pedicello brevioribus.) + +DARLING TRIBE AGAIN. + +We proceeded on our journey as usual, but had not gone far when we heard +the voices of a vast body of blacks following our track, shouting +prodigiously, and raising war cries. It now became necessary for me to +determine whether I was to allow the party under my charge to be +perpetually subject to be cut off in detail by waiting until these +natives had again actually attacked and slain some of my people, or +whether it was not my duty, in a war which not my party, but these +savages, had virtually commenced, to anticipate the intended blow. I was +at length convinced that, unless I could check their progress in our rear +and prevent them from following us so closely, the party would be in +danger of being compelled to fight its way back against the whole savage +population, who would be assembled at that season of drought on the banks +of the large rivers. But in order to ascertain first whether this was the +hostile tribe I sent overseer Burnett with Piper and half the party into +the scrub which skirted our line of route. We were travelling along the +berg or outer bank of the river, a feature which not only afforded the +best defensive position but also guided me in tracing the river's course. +It was also in many parts the only ground clear of timber or bushes and +therefore the best for travelling upon. I directed the men to allow the +tribes to pass along our track towards me, as I intended to halt with the +carts after crossing the low hill. Piper recognised from this scrub the +same people he had seen at Benanee. + +DISPERSION OF THE DARLING TRIBE BY THE PARTY. + +The natives however having immediately discovered our ambuscade by the +howling of one of their dogs, halted and poised their spears; but a man +of our party (King) inconsiderately discharging his carabine, they fled +as usual to their citadel, the river, pursued and fired upon by the party +from the scrub. The firing had no sooner commenced than I perceived from +the top of the hill which I ascended some of the blacks, who appeared to +be a very numerous tribe, swimming across the Murray. I was not then +aware what accidental provocation had brought on this attack without my +orders, but it was not the time to inquire; for the men who were with me, +as soon as they heard the shots of their comrades and saw me ascend the +hill, ran furiously down the steep bank to the river, not a man remaining +with the carts. The hill behind which these were posted was about a +quarter of a mile from the river, and was very steep on that side, while +on the intervening space or margin below lofty gum trees grew, as in +other similar situations. By the time I had also got down, the whole +party lined the riverbank, the men with Burnett being at some distance +above the spot at which I reached it. Most of the natives were then near +the other side, and getting out while others were swimming down the +stream. The sound of so much firing must have been terrible to them and +it was not without effect, if we may credit the information of Piper who +was afterwards informed that seven had been shot in crossing the river, +and among them the fellow in the cloak, who at Benanee appeared to be the +chief. Much as I regretted the necessity for firing upon these savages, +and little as the men might have been justifiable under other +circumstances for firing upon any body of men without orders, I could not +blame them much on this occasion; for the result was the permanent +deliverance of the party from imminent danger. Our men were liable in +turn to be exposed singly while attending the cattle, which often +unavoidably strayed far from the camp during the night; and former +experience had, in my mind, rendered the death of some of these men +certain. I was indeed satisfied that this collision had been brought +about in the most providential manner; for it was probable that, from my +regard for the aborigines, I might otherwise have postponed giving orders +to fire longer than might have been consistent with the safety of my men. +Such was the fate of the barbarians who, a year before, had commenced +hostilities by attacking treacherously a small body of strangers, which, +had it been sent from heaven, could not have done more to minister to +their wants than it did then, nor endured more for the sake of peace and +goodwill. The men had then been compelled to fire in their own defence +and at the risk of my displeasure. The hostility of these savages had +also prevented me from dividing my party, and obliged me to retire from +the Darling sooner than I might otherwise have done. It now appeared that +they had discovered this, judging from their present conduct, and +unappalled by the effect of firearms, to which they were no longer +strangers, they had boastingly invaded the haunts of other tribes, more +peaceably disposed than themselves, for the avowed purpose of meeting and +attacking us. They had persisted in following us with such bundles of +spears as we had never seen on other occasions, and they were on the +alert to kill any stragglers, having already, as they acknowledged, +destroyed two of our cattle. + +This collision took place so suddenly that no man had thought of +remaining at the heads of the horses and cattle, as already stated; nor +was I aware of this until, on returning to them, I found the reins in the +hands of Piper's gin; a tall woman who, wrapped in a blanket, with +Piper's sword on her shoulder, and having a blind eye, opaque and white +like that of some Indian idol, presented rather a singular appearance as +she stood the only guardian of all we possessed. Her presence of mind in +assuming such a charge on such an occasion was very commendable, and +seemed characteristic of the female aborigines. + +I gave to the little hill which witnessed this overthrow of our enemies +and was to us the harbinger of peace and tranquillity the name of Mount +Dispersion. + +CROSS A TRACT INTERSECTED BY DEEP LAGOONS. + +The day's journey was still before us. On leaving the river we soon +encountered a small creek or ana-branch* and, though I made a practice of +avoiding all such obstructions by going round rather than crossing them, +yet in the present case I was compelled to deviate from my rule on +finding that this creek would take me too far northward. Soon after, we +approached a lagoon and during the whole day, turn wherever we would, we +were met by similar bodies of water or, as I considered them, pools left +in the turnings and windings of some ana-branch formed during high floods +of the river. Nevertheless I managed to preserve a course in the desired +direction; and at length we encamped on the bank of several deep ponds +which lay in the channel of a broad watercourse. I was anxious to avoid +if possible being shut up between ana-branches and the river lest, as the +river seemed rising, I might be at length surrounded by deep water. I was +in some uncertainty here about the actual situation of the Murray and our +position was anything but good; for it was in the midst of scrubby +ground, and did not command, in any way, the place where alone grass +enough was to be found for the cattle. The bergs of the river were not to +be seen, although the river itself could not be distant; for the whole +country traversed this day was of that description which belongs to the +margin of streams, being grassy land under an open forest containing +goborro and yarra trees. These are seldom found in that region at any +considerable distance from the banks of the river, the whole interior +country being covered with Eucalyptus dumosa and patches of the pine or +Callitris pyramidalis. + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +May 28. + +A thick fog hung over us in the morning but it did not impede our +progress. For the first three miles our way was along the banks of the +channel or lagoon beside which we had passed the night. It then crossed a +polygonum flat and several dry hollows, beyond which I at length saw the +rising ground of the river-berg and, immediately after, the river itself, +flowing by the base of a precipitous red cliff in which the scrubby flat +country we were travelling upon abruptly terminated. We had cut off a +great bend of the Murray by our intricate journey among the lagoons; and +had again reached the river precisely at the point most desirable. + +HUTS OVER TOMBS. + +On this upper ground we observed several tombs, all enclosed within +parterres of the same boat-like shape first seen by us on the day we +traced the Lachlan into the basin of the Murrumbidgee. Two of the tombs +here consisted of huts, very neatly and completely thatched over, the +straw or grass being bound down by a well-wrought net. Each hut had a +small entrance on the south-west side, and the grave within was covered +with dry grass or bedding on which lay however some pieces of wood. There +was a third grave with coverings of the same kind, but it was not so +neatly finished, nor was it covered with net.* There were also graves +without any covering; one where it appeared to have been burnt; and two +old-looking graves were open, empty, and about three feet deep. + +(*Footnote. Isaiah 45:4. Who remain among the graves.] "The old Hebrews +are charged by the prophet Isaiah with remaining among the graves and +lodging in the monuments." See Lewis' Origines Hebraeae volume 3 page +381.) + +ANOTHER DIVISION OF THE DARLING TRIBE. + +We had not proceeded far through the scrub on the top of the precipice +overhanging the river when the usual alarm term "the natives" was passed +along to me from the people in the rear of our party. Piper had been told +that we should soon see the other division of the Darling tribe, which +was still ahead of us; and I concluded that these natives belonged to it +and were awaiting us at this point where, as they had foreseen, we were +sure to come upon the river. Four or five advanced up to us while the +rest followed among the bushes behind. I recognised two men whom I saw +last year on the Darling. They begged hard for axes and held out green +boughs, but I had not forgotten the treachery of their burning boughs on +our former interview and, thinking I recognised the tall man who had been +the originator of the war, I went up to him with no very kind feeling; +but I was informed he was only that man's brother. My altered manner +however was enough for their quick glance; and indeed one of the best +proofs that these natives belonged to the Darling tribe was the attention +with which they watched me when they asked for tomahawks, and their +speaking so much to Piper about Majy. Of the evil tendency of giving +these people presents I was now convinced, and fully determined not to +give more then. This resolution the natives having discovered very +acutely, their ringleaders vanished like phantoms down the steep cliffs, +and we heard no more of the rest. It is possible that this portion of the +tribe had not then received intelligence of what had befallen the others +or they would not have advanced so boldly up. Be that as it may they +followed us no more, having probably heard in the course of the day from +the division of the tribe which we had driven across the Murray. + +BARREN SANDS AND THE EUCALYPTUS DUMOSA. PLANTS WHICH GROW ON THE SAND AND +BIND IT DOWN. + +The river taking a turn to the southward, we again entered the dumosa +scrub but it was more open than we had seen it elsewhere. The soil +consisted of barren sand; there was no grass, but there were tufts of a +prickly bush which tortured the horses and tore to rags the men's clothes +about their ankles. I observed that this bush and the Eucalyptus dumosa +grew only where the sand seemed too barren and loose for the production +of anything else; so loose indeed was it that, but for this dwarf tree +and prickly grass, the sand must have drifted so as to overwhelm the +vegetation of adjacent districts, as in other desert regions where sand +predominates. Nature appears to have provided curiously against that evil +here by the abundant distribution of two plants so singularly adapted to +such a soil. The root of the Eucalyptus dumosa resembles that of a large +tree; but instead of a trunk only a few branches rise above the ground, +forming an open kind of bush, often so low that a man on horseback may +look over it for miles. The heavy spreading roots however of this dwarf +tree and the prickly grass together occupy the ground and seem intended +to bind down the sands of the vast interior deserts of Australia. Their +disproportioned roots also prevent the bushes from growing very close +together and, the stems being leafless except at the top, this kind of +eucalyptus is almost proof against the running fires of the bush. The +prickly grass resembles at a distance, in colour and form, an overgrown +bush of lavender; but the pedestrian and the horse both soon find that it +is neither lavender nor grass, the blades consisting of sharp spikes +which shoot out in all directions, offering real annoyance to men and +horses. + +On ascending a small sandhill about three P.M. I perceived that I could +not hope to reach the river in the direction I was pursuing. Accordingly +I turned to the left and, entering a rather extensive valley which was +bounded on the south by the river-bergs at a distance of three or four +miles, we encamped on the immediate bank of the Murray shortly before +sunset. There was little grass about the river for the ferruginous +finely-grained sandstone formed still the riverbank, and was exactly +similar to the arenaceous rock on the eastern coast. + +FISH CAUGHT. + +The river had more the appearance of having a flood in it now than at the +time we first made it, and here we caught some good cod-perch (Gristes +peelii) one weighing seventeen pounds. As we came along the lagoons in +the morning of this day we shot a new kind of duck. + +May 29. + +The broad slopes of the river-berg, or second bank, were generally +distinguished by a strip of clear ground which we found the best for +travelling upon; and it afforded us also the satisfaction of overlooking +the friendly river at a greater or less distance on the left. The Murray +meandered between the opposite bergs of the valley or basin which was +here about four miles wide. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY TO THE NORTHWARD. + +From a hill situated between the river and the scrub I this day saw, for +the first time since we left the Lachlan, a ridge on the horizon. It +appeared to the northward, the west end being distant about seven miles; +and it was long, flat, and not much higher than the surrounding country. +An extensive plain reminded us of those on the Darling and in the more +hollow part of it I perceived the dry bed of a lake, bordered by some +verdure. On proceeding I observed that the bergs fell off; and we +descended into a valley where a line of yarra trees enveloped a dry +creek, very much resembling the one seen by us on the Darling and named +Clover-creek. Crossing this dry course we soon regained the berg of the +river, and found it as favourable to our progress as before but, being of +red sand, I at length led the party along the firm clay at the base of +the higher ground. + +STRANGE NATIVES FROM BEYOND THE MURRAY. + +As the dogs were chasing a kangaroo across a bit of open flat four +natives appeared at the other side. They came frankly up to us and they +were well painted, broad white patches marking out the larger muscles of +the breasts, thighs, and arms, and giving their persons exactly the +appearance of savages as I have seen them represented in theatres. Their +hair was of a reddish hue and they were altogether men of a different +make from the tribe of the Darling. We accordingly allowed them to remain +in the camp which I took up on the margin of the Murray soon after our +meeting with them. They told us that a creek named Bengallo joined the +Murray amongst the numerous lagoons where we had been encamped two days +before; and they supposed it came from the hills near the Bogan, because +natives from that river sometimes came to the Murray by the banks of the +creek. They also informed us that the name of a river to the southward +was Perrainga; and (if we understood each other rightly by Piper's +interpretation) their name for lake Alexandrina was Kayinga: a lake which +however had, according to them, a wide deep outlet to the sea. + +THEY DECAMP DURING THE NIGHT. + +During that night it rained heavily and the natives left us, without +notice, during an interval of fair weather. There was much scrub about +the river and I was not quite satisfied with the position of our camp, +but a strict watch was always kept up, and we had excellent watch-dogs, +no bad protection against the midnight treachery of the aborigines. + +REACH THE DARLING AND SURPRISE A NUMEROUS TRIBE OF NATIVES. + +May 30. + +We heard our new acquaintance cooeying in the bush but we gave no +attention to them and proceeded on our journey. The smooth and verdant +escarp of the river-berg guided us, while the river itself was sometimes +at hand and sometimes four miles off. This day I recognised several +shrubs which I had seen before only on the Darling. At length the berg +terminated altogether in a smooth round hill beyond which lay a low woody +country, intersected by lines of yarra trees in almost every direction. I +thought I perceived in one of these lines the course of the Darling +coming into the extensive valley from the northward; and the old hands +exclaimed, when they saw the bare plains to the north-west of our camp, +that we had got upon the Darling at last. Beyond this valley to the +south-westward I perceived that the bergs of the opposite bank of the +Murray were continuous and advanced to a point about west-south-west. +Upon the whole I was satisfied that we were near the junction of the two +rivers; and we encamped on the lower extremity of the point, already +mentioned, which overlooked a small lagoon and was not above three +hundred yards from an angle of the Murray. + +May 31. + +I now ventured to take a north-west course in expectation of falling in +with the supposed Darling. We crossed first a plain about two miles in +breadth, when we came to a line of yarra trees which enveloped a dry +creek from the north-east, and very like Clover-creek. We next travelled +over ground chiefly open, and at four miles crossed a sandhill on which +was a covered tomb, after the fashion of those on the Murray. On +descending from the sand-ridge we approached a line of yarra trees which +overhung a reach of green and stagnant water. I had scarcely arrived at +the bank when my attention was drawn to a fire about a hundred yards +before us and from beside which immediately sprung up a numerous tribe of +blacks who began to jump, wring their hands, and shriek, as if in a state +of utter madness or despair. + +PIPER AND HIS GIN EXPLAIN. + +These savages rapidly retired towards others who were at a fire on a +further part of the bank, but Piper and his gin, going boldly forward, +succeeded at length in getting within hail and in allaying their fears. + +SEARCH FOR THE JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY. + +While he was with these natives I had again leisure to examine the +watercourse upon which we had arrived. I could not consider it the +Darling as seen by me above, and so little did it seem the sister stream +to the Murray as described by Sturt that I at first thought it nothing +but an ana-branch of that river. Neither did these natives satisfy me +about Oolawambiloa, by which I had supposed the Darling was meant but +respecting which they still pointed westward. They however told Piper +that the channel we had reached contained all the waters of Wambool (the +Macquarie) and Callewatta (the upper Darling) and I accordingly +determined to trace it up at least far enough to identify it with the +latter. But I thought it right that we should endeavour first to +recognise the junction with the Murray as seen by Captain Sturt. The +natives said it was not far off; and I accordingly encamped at two +o'clock that I might measure back to that important point. Thirteen +natives set out as if to accompany us, for they begged that we would not +go so fast. Three of them however soon set off at full speed as if on a +message; and the remaining ten fell behind us. We had then passed the +camp of their gins and I supposed at the time that their only object was +to see us beyond these females, Piper being with us. + +RETURN BY NIGHT. + +I pursued the river through a tortuous course until sunset when I was +obliged to quit it and return to the camp by moonlight without having +seen anything of the Murray. I had however ascertained that the channel +increased very much in width lower down and, when it was filled with the +clay-coloured water of the flood then in the Murray, it certainly had the +appearance of a river of importance. + +FOLLOWED BY THE NATIVES. + +June 1. + +The country to the eastward seemed so dry and scrubby that I could not +hope in returning to join Mr. Stapylton's party or reach the Murray by +any shorter route than that of our present track; and I therefore +postponed any further survey back towards the junction of the Darling and +Murray until I should be returning this way. We accordingly proceeded +upwards and were followed by the natives. They were late in coming near +us however which Piper and his gin accounted for as follows: As soon as +it was known to them, the day before, that we were gone to the junction, +the strong men of the tribe went by a shorter route; but they were thrown +out and disappointed by our stopping short of that promising point. There +they had passed the night and, having been busy looking for our track in +the morning, the earth's surface being to them a book they always read, +they were late in following our party. + +Kangaroos were more numerous and larger here than at any other part we +had yet visited. This day one coming before me I fired at it with my +rifle; and a man beside me, after asking my permission, fired also. The +animal nevertheless ran amongst the party behind, some of whom hastily +and without permission discharged their carabines also. + +HORSES TAKE FRIGHT. + +At this four horses took fright and ran back at full speed along our +track. Several of the men who went after these horses fell in with two +large bodies of natives coming along this track, and one or two men had +nearly fallen into their hands twice. + +BREAK LOOSE AND RUN BACK. + +Tantragee (McLellan) when running at full speed pursued by bands of +savages escaped only by the opportune appearance of others of our men who +had caught the horses and happened to come up. + +NARROW ESCAPE OF SOME MEN FROM NATIVES. + +The natives then closed on our carts, and accompanied them in single +files on each side; but as they appeared to have got rid of all their +spears I saw no danger in allowing them to join us in that manner. +Chancing to look back at them however, when riding some way ahead, the +close contact of such numbers induced me to halt and call loudly, +cautioning the men, upon which I observed an old man and several others +suddenly turn and run and, on my going to the carts, the natives fell +back, those in their rear setting off at full speed. + +FAILURE OF THEIR INTENDED ATTACK. + +Soon after I perceived the whole tribe running away, as if a plan had +been suddenly frustrated. Piper and his gin, who had been watching them +attentively, now came up and explained to me these movements. It appeared +that the natives entertained the idea that our clothes were impervious to +spears, and had therefore determined on a trial of strength by suddenly +overpowering us, for which purpose they had planted (i.e. hidden) their +spears and all encumbrances, and had told off for each of us six or eight +of their number, whose attack was to be sudden and simultaneous. A +favourable moment had not occurred before they awoke my suspicions; and +thus their motives for sudden retreat were to be understood. That party +consisted of strong men, neither women nor boys being among them; and +although we had little to fear from such an attack, having arms in our +hands, the scheme was very audacious and amounted to a proof that these +savages no sooner get rid of their apprehensions than they think of +aggression. I had on several occasions noticed and frustrated +dispositions apparently intended for sudden attacks, for the natives +seemed always inclined to await favourable opportunities, and were +doubtless aware of the advantage of suddenness of attack to the +assailants.* Nothing seemed to excite the surprise of these natives, +neither horses nor bullocks, although they had never before seen such +animals, nor white men, carts, weapons, dress, or anything else we had. +All were quite new to them and equally strange, yet they looked at the +cattle as if they had been always amongst them, and they seemed to +understand at once the use of everything. + +(*Footnote. For a proof of this see extract from Sydney Herald of May +21st 1838 in Appendix 2.3.) + +We continued our journey and soon found all the usual features of the +Darling; the hills of soft red sand near the river covered with the same +kind of shrubs seen so much higher up. + +DIFFERENT MODES OF INTERMENT. + +The graves had no longer any resemblance to those on the Murrumbidgee and +Murray, but were precisely similar to the places of interment we had seen +on the Darling, being mounds surrounded by and covered with dead branches +and pieces of wood.* On these lay the same singular casts of the head in +white plaster which we had before seen only at Fort Bourke.** It is +indeed curious to observe the different modes of burying adopted by the +natives on different rivers. For instance on the Bogan they bury in +graves covered like our own and surrounded with curved walks and +ornamented ground.*** On the Lachlan under lofty mounds of earth, seats +being made around them. On the Murrumbidgee and Murray the graves are +covered with well thatched huts containing dried grass for bedding and +enclosed by a parterre of a particular shape, like the inside of a +whale-boat.**** On the Darling, as above stated, the graves are in +mounds* covered with dead branches and limbs of trees, and are surrounded +by a ditch, which here we found encircled by a fence of dead limbs and +branches. + +(*Footnote. See Plate 16 volume 1.) + +(**Footnote. See Volume 1.) + +(***Footnote. See Plate 20 volume 1.) + +(****Footnote. See above.) + +REDUCED APPEARANCE OF THE DARLING. + +As we proceeded the sandhills became more numerous and their surface +softer; while the scrub was at length so close that it was difficult to +follow any particular bearing in travelling through it. Near the river +the surface was broken up by beds of dry lagoons which evidently became +branches of the main stream in times of flood; and the intervening ground +was covered with Polygonum junceum. At length I reached an angle of the +river and encamped on a small flat beside a sandhill. Here the Darling +was only a chain of ponds and I walked across its channel dry-shod, the +bed consisting of coarse sand and angular fragments of ferruginous +sandstone. The width and depth between the immediate banks were about the +same as I had found them in the most narrow and shallow parts during my +former journey. While I stood on the adverse side or right bank of this +hopeless river I began to think I had pursued its course far enough. The +identity was no longer a question. + +DESERT CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +The country on its banks in this part presented also the same unvaried +desert features that it did in the districts examined by us during the +preceding year. The Murray, unlike the Darling, was a permanent river, +and I thought it advisable to exhaust no more of my means in the survey +of deserts but rather employ them and the time still at my disposal in +exploring the sources of that river, according to my instructions and in +hopes of discovering a better country. My anxiety about the safety of the +depot brought me more speedily to this determination. During the wet and +cold weather there might be less activity among the savage natives, but +it was not probable that the tribe which had collected 500 men to attack +Captain Sturt would be quiet in my rear after having lost some of their +number. To be in detached parties amongst a savage population was +perilous in proportion to the length of time we continued separate; and I +did not feel warranted in exhausting all my means in order to attain, by +a circuitous route, the point where my survey ought to have commenced; +while a second duty for which the means now left were scarcely adequate +remained to be performed. I had already reached a point far above where +any boat could be taken, or even any heavy carts; and nothing was to be +gained by following the river further. + +The natives were heard by Piper several times during the day's journey in +the woods beyond the river, as if moving along the right bank in a route +parallel with ours; but they did not appear near our camp, although their +smoke was seen at a distance. + +RAINY MORNING. + +June 2. + +For several days the barometer had been falling and this morning the +weather was rainy and cold. + +RETURN OF THE PARTY. + +After tracing the further course of the Darling for some distance and +obtaining, during an interval of sunshine, a view from a sandhill which +commanded a very extensive prospect to the northward, I commenced the +retrograde movement along our route, which was but too deeply visible in +the sand. From what Piper had said the men expected an engagement during +the morning; and it was doubtful, on account of the wetness of the day, +whether their pieces would go off if the natives came on; but fortunately +we continued our journey unmolested. We reached our former encampment +notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the ground, and again pitched +our tents upon it. We found among the scrubs this day a new curious +species of Baeckea with extremely small scattered leaves not larger than +grains of millet, plano-convex and covered with pellucid dots.* + +(*Footnote. B. crassifolia, Lindley manuscripts; glaberrima, foliis +subrotundis oblongisque obtusis plano-convexis crassis, floribus +solitariis axillaribus pedicellatis cernuis, laciniis calycinis +marginatis integerrimis petalis integris brevioribus.) + +SURPRISE THE FEMALES OF THE TRIBE. + +June 3. + +The natives had not again appeared, so that Piper's conjecture that they +were moving up the river by the opposite bank with a view to assemble the +tribes higher up appeared to be correct. Their gins had been left at +their old camp; for as the party crossed a flat not far from it, and I +fired at a kangaroo, their voices were immediately heard, signal columns +of smoke arose in the air, and they hurried with their children to the +opposite side of the Darling. From this astonishment on their part at our +appearance, and especially from their flight, knowing well then who we +were, it was not improbable that they knew the men were absent on some +mischievous scheme affecting us. + +JUNCTION OF THE DARLING AND MURRAY. + +I struck out of the former line of route for the purpose of extending my +measurement to the junction of the rivers, and thus at length found the +Darling within a zone of trees which I had formerly taken for the line of +the Murray. The banks were high and the channel was also much broader +here. After tracing this river about four miles I found that the still +but turbid backwater from the larger stream nearly reached the top of the +grassy bank of the other. At length I perceived the Murray before me +coming from the south-south-east, a course directly opposed to that in +which I had followed the Darling for a mile. Both rivers next turned +south-west, then westward, leaving a narrow tongue of land between, and +from the point where they both turned westward to their junction at the +extremity of this ground between them, I found that the distance was +exactly three-quarters of a mile. A bank of sand extended further and, on +standing upon this and looking back, I recognised the view given in +Captain Sturt's work and the adjacent localities described by him. The +state of the rivers was no longer however the same as when this spot was +first visited. All the water visible now belonged to the Murray, whose +course was rapid, while its turbid flood filled also the channel of the +Darling, but was there perfectly still. We were then distant about a +hundred miles from the rest of the party who, before we could join them, +might have had enough to do with the natives. I thought that in case it +might ever be necessary to look for us, this junction was the most likely +spot where traces might be sought; and I therefore buried near the point, +beside a tree marked with a large M and the word Dig, a phial in which I +placed a paper containing a brief statement of the circumstances under +which we had arrived there, and our proposed route to the depot, adding +also the names of the men with me. As the ground was soft it was not +necessary to dig but merely to drop the phial into a hole made with the +scabbard of my sabre; and I hoped that the bottle would escape in +consequence the notice of the natives. + +EFFECT OF ALTERNATE FLOODS THERE. + +The greater width and apparently important character of the Darling near +its mouth may perhaps be accounted for by supposing that floods do not +always occur in it and the Murray at the same time. The remoteness of the +sources of the two rivers and the consequent difference of climate may +occasion a flood in the one, while the waters of the other may be very +low. That this is likely to happen sometimes may be inferred from the +difference between the relative state of the atmosphere on the eastern +coast and on the Darling. This difference seems to have been so +considerable during the last journey as materially to have affected our +barometrical measurements taken simultaneously with observations at +Sydney. When the bed of the greater river is also the deepest any flood +descending by the other channel when the larger stream is low must flow +with greater force into that which is deeper, and in a soft and yielding +soil may thus increase the width of its own channel. On the contrary a +flood coming down the greater river while the minor channel may happen to +be dry must first flow upwards some miles and so fill this channel and, +being thus affected both by the rising and subsidence of the greater +stream, this process would have had a tendency to deepen and widen the +lower part of the Darling. + + +CHAPTER 3.6. + +Return along the bank of the Murray. +Mount Lookout. +Appearance of rain. +Chance of being cut off from the depot by the river floods. +A savage man at home. +Tributaries of the Murray. +A storm in the night. +Traverse the land of lagoons before the floods come down. +Traces of many naked feet along our old track. +Camp of 400 natives. +Narrow escape from the floods of the river. +Piper overtakes two youths fishing in Lake Benanee. +Description of the lake. +Great rise in the waters of the Murray. +Security of the depot. +Surrounded by inundations. +Cross to it in a bark canoe made by Tommy Came-last. +Search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee and Murray. +Mr. Stapylton reaches the junction of the rivers. +Reception by the natives of the left bank. +Passage of the Murray. +Heavy rains set in. +Row up the Murray to the junction of the Murrumbidgee. +Commence the journey upwards, along the left bank. +Strange animal. +Picturesque scenery on the river. +Kangaroos numerous. +Country improves as we ascend the river. +A region of reeds. +The water inaccessible from soft and muddy banks. +Habits of our native guides. +Natives very shy. +Piper speaks to natives on the river. +Good land on the Murray. +Wood and water scarce. +Junction of two branches. +Swan Hill. + +RETURN ALONG THE BANK OF THE MURRAY. + +Returning from the junction towards our last camp on the Murray we again +crossed, when within a mile of that position, the dry channel we had seen +on proceeding towards the north-west. It contained some deep lagoons on +which were pelicans, but we crossed it where the bed was quite dry and +where it presented, like many other parts occasionally under water, +striking proofs of the uncertainty of seasons in these parts of +Australia. Numerous dead saplings of eight or ten years growth stood +there, having evidently flourished in that situation until the water +again filled this channel, after so long an interval of drought, and +killed them. + +On reaching the firm ground beyond we came upon some old graves which had +been disturbed, as the bones protruded from the earth. Piper said that +the dead were sometimes dug up and eaten; but this I could not believe. + +MOUNT LOOKOUT. + +By three P.M. we again occupied the remarkable point where we had +formerly encamped. It is at this point (Mount Lookout on the map) that +the berg of the Murray terminates on the basin of the Darling and thus +commands, as before observed, an extensive view over the woody country to +the westward. It would be an important position in any kind of warfare, +and during my operations I felt as strong upon it with my party as if we +had been in a citadel. I had now, I hoped, again got between the junction +tribes and our old enemies, though the latter were still between us and +our depot; and thus any danger of the junction tribes uniting with those +up the Murray was less to be apprehended. Piper however discovered the +track of a considerable number who had proceeded up the river the day +before. Indeed all the tracks of natives he found led upwards and, seeing +no longer any of them there, we felt more anxious about the safety of the +depot. + +APPEARANCE OF RAIN. CHANCE OF BEING CUT OFF FROM THE DEPOT BY THE RIVER +FLOODS. + +The barometer had been falling gradually from the 1st instant, and this +was another source of anxiety to me; for we were in no small danger of +being separated from the other party by any such rise of the river as +might be expected after a heavy fall of rain. + +June 4. + +Notwithstanding the unpromising state of the mercurial column the night +had been fair, and in the morning the sky was clear. We lost no time in +moving on and we continued until we were four miles beyond our former +camp; and then crossing Golgol creek we occupied a clear point of land +between it and the Murray. + +A SAVAGE MAN AT HOME. + +As I was reconnoitring the ground for a camp I observed a native on the +opposite bank and, not being seen by him, I watched awhile the habits of +a savage man at home. His hands were ready to seize any living thing; his +step, light and noiseless as that of a shadow, gave no intimation of his +approach; and his walk suggested the idea of the prowling of a beast of +prey. Every little track or impression left on the earth by the lower +animals caught his keen eye, but the trees overhead chiefly engaged his +attention; for deep in the heart of some of the upper branches he +probably hoped to find the opossum on which he was to dine. The wind blew +cold and keenly through the lofty trees on the river margin, yet that +broad brawny savage was entirely naked. Had I been unarmed I had much +rather have met a lion than that sinewy biped; but situated as I was, +with a broad river flowing between us while I overlooked him from a high +bank, I ventured to disturb his meditations with a loud halloo: he stood +still, looked at me for about a minute, and then retired with that easy +bounding step which may be termed a running walk, and exhibits an +unrestrained facility of movement, apparently incompatible with dress of +any kind. It is in bounding lighting at such a pace that, with the +additional aid of the woomerah, an aboriginal native can throw his spear +with sufficient force and dexterity to kill the emu or kangaroo, even +when at their speed. One or two families of natives afterwards appeared +hutted on the riverbank nearly opposite to our camp, and Piper opened a +conversation with them across the river. These people had heard nothing +of what had befallen the Benanee tribe. They had some years before seen +white men go down and return up the river in a large canoe; and Piper +also learnt from them that the Millewa (Murray) had now a flood in it, +having for some time previous been much lower than it was then; but they +assured Piper, apparently with exultation, that it flowed always. + +TRIBUTARIES OF THE MURRAY. + +The name of the creek we had just crossed was Golgol, and it came from +the low range of the same name which I had observed on May 29. From what +these natives said of Bengallo creek I thought it might be that branch of +the Lachlan, already mentioned as Boororan, flowing westward under +Warranary and other hills between the Murrumbidgee and the Darling. + +A STORM IN THE NIGHT. + +June 5. + +Rain had fallen during the night but the day was favourable though +cloudy. I ventured on a straight line through the sand and bushes of +Eucalyptus dumosa in order to cut off some miles of our beaten track, +which was nearer the river and rather circuitous. We crossed some +sandhills, the loose surface of which was bound down only by the prickly +grass already described. From these hills the view was extensive and +bounded on all sides by a perfectly level horizon. On one of them a +solitary tree drew my attention and, on examining it, I discovered with +much satisfaction that it was of that singular kind I had only once or +twice seen last year in the country behind the Darling. The leaves, bark, +and wood tasted strongly of horse-radish. We now obtained specimens of +its flower and seed, both of which seemed very singular.* By the more +direct route through the scrub this day, with what we gained yesterday, +we were enabled to reach, at the usual hour for encamping, the red cliffs +near the spot where we formerly met the second division of the Darling +tribe. I took up a position on the western extremity of the broken bank, +overlooking an angle of the river, and commanding a grassy flat where our +cattle would be also secure. The weather became very boisterous after +sunset, and our tents were so much exposed to the fury of the wind that +at one time I thought they would be blown into the river. The waters +continuing to rise, the Murray now poured along nearly on a level with +its banks, and how we should cross or avoid: + +The mosses, waters, slaps, and stiles + +that lay between us and the depot, if the river rose much longer, was a +question for which I was prepared. On the other hand the very cold and +boisterous weather was in our favour as being opposed to any assembling +of the tribes at points of difficulty along the line of our track, as +they certainly ought to have done as good tacticians, for they never lost +sight of our movements while we were in that country. + +(*Footnote. A new and genuine species of Gyrostemon. Gyrostemon pungens, +Lindley manuscripts; foliis rhomboideis acutis glaucis in petiolum +angustatis. The capsules are arranged in a single verticillus and +consequently this species will belong to Gyrostemon as distinguished from +Codonocarpus by Mr. Endlicher.) + +TRAVERSE THE LAND OF LAGOONS BEFORE THE FLOODS COME DOWN. + +June 6. + +It had rained heavily during the night but the morning was clear. As we +continued our journey the natives were heard in the woods although none +appeared. Fortunately for our progress the floods had not reached the +lagoons, and we succeeded in passing the whole of this low tract, so +subject to inundations, without difficulty; and we finally encamped +within four miles of the ground where we had been obliged to disperse the +Darling tribes. We pitched our tents on the eastern side of the lagoon +where we found an agreeable shelter from the storm in some scrub which, +on former occasions, we should not have thought so comfortable a +neighbour. We could now enter such thickets with greater safety; and in +this we found a very beautiful new shrubby species of cassia, with thin +papery pods and numbers of the most brilliant yellow blossoms. On many of +the branches the leaflets had fallen off and left nothing but the flat +leafy petioles to represent them. The pods were of various sizes and +forms, on which account, if new, I would name it C. heteroloba.* + +(*Footnote. C. heteroloba, Lindley manuscripts; foliolis bijugis +linearibus carnosis cito deciduis apice mucronulatis recurvis, glandula +parva conica inter omnia, petiolo compresso herbaceo nunc aphyllo +mucronulato, racemis paucifloris folio brevioribus, leguminibus oblongis +planis obtusis papyraceis continuis aut varie strangulatis.) + +June 7. + +The ground had been so heavy for travelling during some days that the +cattle much needed rest; and as I contemplated the passage, in one day of +that dumosa scrub, occupying twenty miles along the tract before us, I +made this journey a short one, moving only to our old encampment of May +26. The scrub here seemed more than usually rich in botanical novelties +for, besides the Murrayana tree, we found a most beautiful Leucopogon +allied to L. rotundifolius of Brown, with small heart-shaped leaves +polished on the upper side and striated on the lower, so as to resemble +the most delicate shell-work.* Piper discovered, on examining the ground +where we had repulsed the Darling tribes, that they had left many of +their spears, nets, etc. on our side of the river, and had afterwards +returned for them, also that a considerable number did not swim across, +but had retired along the riverbank. Upon the whole it was estimated that +the numbers then in our rear amounted to at least one hundred and eighty. + +(*Footnote. L. cordifolius, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis pubescentibus, +foliis sessilibus subrotundis planis patentibus cordatis mucronatis +margine scabris supra laevigatis subtus striatis, floribus solitariis +sessilibus axillaribus.) + +TRACES OF MANY NAKED FEET ALONG OUR OLD TRACK. + +June 8. + +As soon as daylight appeared this morning we commenced our long journey +through the scrub; and we discovered to our surprise, by the traces of +innumerable feet along our track, that the natives had not, as I till +then supposed, come along the riverbank, but had actually followed us +through that scrub. They have nevertheless a great dislike to such parts, +not only because they cannot find any game there, but because the prickly +spinifex-looking grass is intolerable against their naked legs. While we +were encamped in the scrub on May 25 they must have also passed that +stormy night there, without either fire or water. On our way through it +now we discovered a new hoary species of Trichinium, very different from +Brown's Tr. incanum.* The cattle, though they were jaded, accomplished +the journey before sunset, and we halted beside the large lagoon adjacent +to that part of the river which was within three miles of our former +camp, being the spot where the natives, in following us from lake +Benanee, first emerged from the woods. The weather being still +boisterous, we occupied a piece of low ground where we were sheltered +from the west or stormy quarter by the river berg. + +(*Footnote. Tr. lanatum, Lindley manuscripts; incano-tomentosum, caule +corymboso, foliis obovatis cuneatisque, capitulis hemisphericis lanatis, +bracteis dorso villosis.) + +CAMP OF 400 NATIVES. + +On the brow of this height and just behind our camp I counted the remains +of one hundred and thirty-five fires at an old encampment of natives and, +as one fire is seldom lighted for less than three persons, there must +have been at least four hundred. The bushes placed around each fire +seemed to have been intended for that temporary kind of shelter required +for only one night. + +June 9. + +We proceeded this morning as silently as possible, for we were now +approaching the haunts of the enemy, and I wished to come upon them by +surprise, thinking that I might thereby sooner ascertain whether any +misfortune had befallen the depot. + +NARROW ESCAPE FROM THE FLOODS OF THE RIVER. + +Two creeks lay in our way and, from the flood then in the Murray, it was +likely that they might be full of water, and the savages prepared to take +advantage of the difficulty we should then experience in crossing them. +The first channel we arrived at, which was quite dry when we formerly +crossed, was now brimful of the muddy water of the Murray and before we +reached its banks we heard the voices of natives on our right. We forded +it however without annoyance, the water reaching only to the axles of the +carts, but the current was very strong and FROM the river, that is to +say, upwards. We next reached our old camp where we had passed that +anxious night near Benanee. Here to my great satisfaction and indeed +surprise, I found the bed of the larger creek, which occasioned us so +great a detour when we first met the natives, still quite dry at our old +crossing-place; being in the same state in which it was then, although +the flood water was now fast approaching it. We got over however with +ease and at length again traversed the plain which skirts the lake; and +we were glad to find that tranquillity prevailed along its extensive +shores. + +PIPER OVERTAKES TWO YOUTHS FISHING IN LAKE BENANEE. + +I perceived only one or two natives fishing, and I took Piper down to the +beach to speak to them, being desirous also to examine at leisure this +fine sheet of water. We found on arriving there that other natives had +run off from some huts on the shore, but Piper pursued those in the lake, +for the purpose of obtaining information about the tribe, until they ran +so far out into the water that they seemed at length up to their ears, +and I was really afraid that the poor fellows, who were found to be only +boys, would be drowned in endeavouring to avoid him. I could scarcely +distinguish them at length from the numerous waterfowl floating around. +In vain I called to their pursuer to come back, Piper was not to be +baffled by boys, and continued to walk through the water like a giant, +brandishing a short spear, or, as the boys would probably say to their +tribe; + +Black he stood as night, +Fierce as ten furies, terrible as hell, +And shook a dreadful dart. + +At length, when apparently near the centre of the lake, he overtook one; +and while leading him towards the shore he ascertained that the Darling +tribe had returned to the lake only on the day before, having been ever +since their dispersion on the 27th May until this time, on the opposite +bank of the Murray. That they were then fishing in a lagoon near the +river (where in fact we afterwards saw smoke and heard their voices) and +that they had despatched three messengers to a portion of the tribe on +the upper Darling, with the news of what had befallen them, of our +progress in that direction, and requesting them to join them as soon as +possible at the lake. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKE. + +I perceived that the depth of water in this basin did not then in any +part exceed 8 or 10 feet, although the surface was probably 20 feet below +the level of the sandy beach, thus making 28 or 30 feet the extreme depth +when full. Now that I could examine it at leisure, I found that this fine +lake was much more extensive than I had at first supposed. The breadth +was about four miles, and I could see along it in a westerly direction at +least six miles. Part of the north-western shore seemed to be clear of +trees but well covered with grass, and to slope gently towards the water. +The whole was surrounded by a beach consisting of fine clean quartzose +sand. This was an admirable station for a numerous body like that from +the Darling. The cunning old men of that tribe seemed well aware that +there they could neither be surrounded nor surprised; the approach to the +lake from the river being also covered in both directions by deep creeks, +passable only at certain places. Their choice of such a position was +creditable to their skill in strategy, and consistent with their thorough +knowledge of localities. I could spare no time to look at the country +beyond this lake (or northward) as I wished to do. From what we learnt +however we were satisfied that the depot was safe, and this fact relieved +me from much anxiety. We had still to cross that creek or ana-branch +which apparently supplies the lake, although it was then still dry. I had +observed that such ana-branches* were deepest at the lower mouths, as if +the river floods entered first there and flowed upwards; although before +the river reached its maximum a strong current would probably set +downwards in the same channel, which would thus become at last a branch +of the main stream. + +RETURN TO THE DEPOT. + +We reached our former camp on the Murray by 3 P.M., and once more pitched +our tents on the bank of this river. By comparing its height, as measured +formerly, with as much of it as remained above the waters, I found that +it had risen eight feet and a half. We were then within a short day's +journey of the depot but anxious enough still to know if it were safe. + +June 10. + +We started early and, by crossing a small plain, cut off half a mile of +our former route. When within a few miles of the camp of Mr. Stapylton we +heard a shot, and soon discovered that it was fired by one of the men +(Webb) rather a mauvais sujet, who had been transgressing rules by firing +at a duck. We learnt from him however the agreeable news that the depot +had not been disturbed. + +GREAT RISE IN THE WATERS OF THE MURRAY. + +It was now cut off from us by a deep stream which filled the creek it +overlooked and which flowed with a considerable current towards the +Murray, having also filled Lake Stapylton to the brim. + +SECURITY OF THE DEPOT. + +Mr. Stapylton and his party were well; and during the whole time that we +had been absent the natives had never approached his camp. Such singular +good fortune was more than I could reasonably have expected, and my +satisfaction was complete when I again met Stapylton and saw the party +once more united. The little native Ballandella's leg was fast uniting, +the mother having been unremitting in her care of the child. Good grass +had also been found so that the cattle had become quite fresh and indeed +looked well. + +SURROUNDED BY INUNDATIONS. CROSS TO IT IN A BARK CANOE MADE BY TOMMY +CAME-LAST. + +I was ferried over Stapylton's creek in a bark canoe by Tommy Came-last +who also, by the same simple means, soon conveyed every article of +equipment and the rest of the party across to the depot camp. + +We had now got through the most unpromising part of our task. We had +penetrated the Australian Hesperides, although the golden fruit was still +to be sought. We had accomplished so much however, with only half the +party, that nothing seemed impossible with the whole; and to trace the +Murray upwards and explore the unknown regions beyond it was a charming +undertaking when we had at length bid adieu forever to the dreary banks +of the Darling. + +SEARCH FOR THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY. + +The first object of research was the actual junction of the Murrumbidgee +with the Murray. I knew that the creek on which I had fixed the depot +camp came from the former and entered the latter; and that our depot thus +stood on a tract surrounded by water, being between the creek and the +main stream. We were already in fact on a branch-island, immediately +adjacent to the junction we were in search of and, as I intended to +across the Murray either at or below that point, I determined to make an +excursion in search of it next morning. + +June 11. + +Riding southward I reached a bend of the river about two miles from our +camp. While tracing the stream upwards from that point we saw some +natives running away from their fires. One of them however held up a +green branch in each hand and, though as he ran he answered Piper, and a +gin had left a heavy bag near us, yet he could not be prevailed on to +stop. When Piper took the bag to the tribe he was obliged to follow them +nearly a mile, when a number at length stood still together, but at a +considerable distance from us, and kept incessantly calling for +tomahawks. From the number of huts along the riverbank it was obvious +that the inhabitants were numerous, and I was therefore the more +surprised that our depot could have continued so long near them without +their discovering it. After following the river upwards of eight miles +without meeting with the Murrumbidgee I came to a place where it seemed +to have formerly had a different channel, and to have left a basin where +the banks of the stream were of easy access, the breadth being only 110 +yards. This spot was so favourable for effecting a passage that I +determined on moving the party to it at once; and to entrust to Mr. +Stapylton the further search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee, which +could not be far from it. + +MR. STAPYLTON REACHES THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVERS. + +June 12. + +While I conducted the party to the point at which I intended to cross Mr. +Stapylton returned along our old route to where we first traversed the +now flooded creek and, by tracing it downward to the Murrumbidgee, and +that river to the Murray, he ascertained the junction to be little more +than a mile from the encampment which I had taken up with the intention +of crossing the Murray. Meanwhile no time had been lost there in pitching +the boats and sinking them in the adjacent basin of still water that the +planks might swell and unite. + +June 13. + +I crossed early in the morning and found the opposite bank very +favourable for the cattle to get out; this being a object of much +importance. + +RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES OF THE LEFT BANK. + +I was met as favourably by the natives on this first passage of the +Murray as I had been on our first approach to the Murrumbidgee. A small +tribe came forward and laid a number of newly-made nets at my feet. I +declined accepting anything however save a beautifully wrought bag, +telling the owner through Piper that when the party should have passed to +that side I would give him a tomahawk in return for it. + +PASSAGE OF THE MURRAY. + +As soon as the day had become rather warm we endeavoured to swim the +bullocks across by driving them into the water at the mouth of the basin +where the river seemed most accessible. But the bank was soft and muddy, +and the animals, when driven into the water, got upon an island in a +shallow part, whence they could not be dislodged, much less compelled to +swim from it to the opposite shore. Not a little time was thus lost, +while only a few could be drawn over by ropes attached to the boats; and +by which process one was accidentally drowned. This was owing to the +injudicious conduct of one of the men (Webb) who gave the animal rope +instead of holding its head close aboard, so as to keep the mouth at +least above water. The drivers then represented that the rest of the +bullocks had been too long in the water to be able to cross before the +next day but, having first tried their plan, I now determined to try my +own; and I directed them to take the cattle to the steepest portion of +the bank, overhanging the narrow part of the river, and just opposite to +the few bullocks which had already gained the opposite shore. +Notwithstanding the weakness of the animals this measure succeeded for, +on driving them down the steep bank so that they fell into the water, the +whole at once turned their heads to the opposite shore and reached it in +safety. We next swam the horses over by dragging each separately at the +stern of a boat, taking care to hold the head above water. Thus by sunset +everything except one or two carts and the boat-carriage had been safely +got across. + +The natives beyond the Murray were differently-behaved people from those +of the Darling for, although one group sat beside that portion of our +party which was still on the right bank, another, at a point of the +opposite shore to the eastward of our new camp, and a third near my tent +in the neck of a peninsula on which I found we had landed, not one of +them caused us any anxiety or trouble. It was to the last party that I +owed the tomahawk, and I went up with it as they sat at their fires. They +were in number about twenty and unaccompanied by any gins. The man who +had given me the bag seemed to express gratitude for the tomahawk by +offering me another net, also one which he wore on his head; and he +presented to me his son. He saw the two native boys who then accompanied +me as interpreters dressed well and apparently happy, and I had no doubt +the poor man was willing to place his own son under my care. I +endeavoured to explain that we had no more tomahawks, that we had given +none to any other tribe upon the Murray, and that our men were apt to be +very saucy with their guns if too much troubled. Experience had taught me +the necessity for thus perpetually impressing on the minds, even of the +most civil of these savages that, although inoffensive, we were strong; +an idea not easily conceived by them. They however came forward and sat +down near us until very heavy rain, which fell in the night, obliged them +to seek their huts. + +HEAVY RAINS SET IN. + +June 14. + +The morning dawned under the most steady fall of rain that I had seen +during the journey; and this happened just after new moon, a time when I +had hoped for a favourable change in the weather. Everything was got +across the river this day, and we were prepared for the survey of a new +region. I was occupied with the maps of the country which we had just +left sufficiently to be regardless of the rain, even if it had continued +to fall many days; and very thankful was I that we had got thus far +without having been impeded by the weather. + +June 15. + +The rain ceased in the morning and the barometer had risen so much that +no more was to be apprehended then; yet the blacksmith had still some +work to do to the boat-carriage, and we were therefore obliged to halt +another day. + +ROW UP THE MURRAY TO THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +In the afternoon I proceeded in one of the boats up the river to the +junction of the Murrumbidgee; and I ascertained that there was a fresh in +that river also. It was certainly narrower at the mouth than at Weyeba; +and here indeed some fallen trees almost crossed the stream. There was a +hollow or break in the bank of the Murray, about 100 yards lower down, +which seemed to have been once an outlet of the Murrumbidgee. The opening +formed a deep section through a stratum of ferruginous sandstone, and was +fully equal to the present breadth of the tributary river. On pulling +higher up, the Murray seemed rather smaller above this junction, although +still a splendid stream. The natives on this side told Piper that the +Darling tribe from the other had danced a corrobory with them about six +weeks before, and promised to return in one moon. They also inquired +whether Piper had seen any of that tribe as they were waiting for us +whitefellows, to which Piper answered that he had NOT. I blamed him for +this reply, and asked why he did not say that we had been obliged to fire +upon and kill some of them: but he said he could not tell them that, +because they would hate him so. + +COMMENCE THE JOURNEY UPWARDS, ALONG THE LEFT BANK. + +June 16. + +We left our encampment and commenced our travels up the left bank of the +Murray over ground which seemed much better than any we had seen on the +right bank. We crossed grassy plains bounded by sandhills on which grew +pines (callitris); and open forests of goborro (or box-tree) prevailed +very generally nearer the river. Where this tree grew we found the ground +still good for travelling upon, notwithstanding the heavy rain, in +consequence apparently of the argillaceous character of the soil; for in +the plains of red earth, which before the last fall of rain we had found +the best, the horses now sank above their fetlocks and the carts could +scarcely be dragged along. In the course of the day we passed several +broad lagoons in channels which probably were ana-branches of the river +in high floods. On the largest plain crossed by the party four emus +appeared, and one of them was killed after a fine chase by the dogs. The +river appeared to come from the east-south-east but the course was very +tortuous, and we encamped at a reach where it seemed to come from the +south. + +STRANGE ANIMAL. + +The most remarkable incident of this days' journey was the discovery of +an animal of which I had seen only the head among the remains found in +the caves at Wellington Valley. This animal was of the size of a young +wild rabbit and of nearly the same colour, but had a broad head +terminating in a long very slender snout, like the narrow neck of a wide +bottle; and it had no tail. The forefeet were singularly formed, +resembling those of a hog; and the marsupial opening was downwards, and +not upwards as in the kangaroo and others of that class of animals. This +quadruped was discovered on the ground by our native guides, but when +pursued it took refuge in a hollow tree from which they extracted it +alive, all of them declaring that they had never before seen an animal of +that kind.* + +(*Footnote. The original has been deposited in the Sydney Museum but, +having shown my friend Mr. Ogilby a drawing of it, he has noticed the +discovery in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society for 1838 +describing the animal as "belonging to a new genus closely allied to +Perameles, but differing in the form of the forefeet, which have only two +middle toes resembling those of a hog, and in the total absence of tail. +This genus has been named by Mr. Ogilby Chaeropus ecaudatus.) + +June 17. + +The cattle were not brought up until ten o'clock, an unusual +circumstance, and one which curtailed the day's journey. The course of +the river compelled us to travel southward, and even to the westward of +south; but we found better ground by keeping on the open forest-land of +box or goborro, which in general occupied a very extensive space between +the river and the bergs of soft red sandhills on which grew the +callitris. + +SALSOLAE ON THE PLAINS. + +The plains covered with salsolae which, as I have just remarked, before +the rain, were considered to afford the best surface for travelling on, +had now become so soft as to be almost impassable, at least by our +wheels, and I this day avoided them as much as I could. The margin where +the box or goborro grew was in many parts hollowed into lagoons or +ana-branches of the river, so that it was desirable to shape our line of +route as closely by the base of these bergs or sandhills as possible. + +PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON THE RIVER. + +On crossing the point of one of them we came upon a most romantic-looking +scene where a flood branch had left a serpentine piece of water, +enclosing two wooded islands of rather picturesque character, the whole +being overhung by the steep and bushy slope of the hill. The scenery of +some lakes thus formed was very fine, especially when their rich verdure +and lofty trees were contrasted with the scrub which covered the +sandhills nearest the river, where a variety of shrubs such as we had not +previously seen formed a curious foreground. Amongst them was a creeper +with very large pods, two of which were brought to me last year, while on +the Darling, by one of the men, who could not afterwards find the tree +again, or say what it was like. We also found one Eucarya murrayana with +young unripe fruit. (See Plate 28 which represents the general character +of the scenery on the Murray.) + +KANGAROOS NUMEROUS. + +The country abounded with kangaroos. On ascending some grassy ridges I +perceived a verdant plain which extended as far as I could see to the +westward. It was bounded on the south, not by scrub, but by a forest of +large trees; and the horizon beyond presented something like an outline +of hills, a refreshing sight, accustomed as we had been for several +months to a horizon as level as that of the ocean. After travelling about +three miles we were obliged to turn westward by a creek or ana-branch of +the river, having on its banks large yarra trees resembling those in the +main stream. It prevented us from approaching the Murray during the rest +of the day, and we finally encamped on its margin having found there most +excellent grass. + +June 18. + +Continuing along the firm ground between the bergs and this creek we +pursued a course which for some miles bore to the westward of south. We +passed through forests of the box or goborro, under which grew a +luxuriant crop of grass and two of these flats (on which we saw yarra +trees also) stretched away to the westward, breaking the elsewhere +unvaried wilderness of sandhills and scrub. On crossing one of these +forest flats we heard the sound of the natives' hatchet on some hollow +trees before us; and Piper as usual hastened forward to communicate with +them, but in vain for, as soon as they saw him, they ran like kangaroos, +leaving the fortunate opossum which they had been seeking still alive in +his hole in the tree. At length we got clear of the creek on reaching a +bend of the river not far beyond the spot where we had seen the natives. + +COUNTRY IMPROVES AS WE ASCEND THE RIVER. + +The Murray was flowing rapidly in a narrower channel and within two or +three feet of the top of the banks. The country appeared on the whole +superior to any that we had seen on the other side of this river. The +grassy flats backed by hills covered with callitris seemed very eligible +for cattle runs, the chief objection to them being only that the banks of +the river were so steep and yielding that the water was in general +inaccessible. The breadth seldom exceeded 60 or 70 yards; and I suspected +that we might be already above the junction of some stream on the right +bank, especially as the course came now so much from the southward. + +A REGION OF REEDS. + +On crossing the extremity of a sandhill, about two miles from the spot +where we afterwards encamped, I perceived that reeds covered a vast +region before us. They grew everywhere, even under the trees, and +extended back from the channel of the river as far as I could see and, no +alternative presenting itself, we endeavoured to face them. The lofty +ash-hills of the natives, used chiefly for roasting the balyan (or +bulrush) a root found only in such places, again appeared in great +numbers. We soon came upon a lagoon about a mile in circumference and +surrounded on all sides by high reeds. One or two smooth grassy hills +arose among them, but the ground, even where they grew, was as firm and +good for travelling upon as any that we had recently crossed. They were +no impediment to a man or bullock in motion, but grew to the height of +about seven or eight feet. + +THE WATER INACCESSIBLE FROM SOFT AND MUDDY BANKS. + +Grass was also to be found among them and I was willing to encamp there; +but the difficulty was in finding a spot where the cattle could approach +the water. The flood ran high in the deep and rapid river; yet the margin +was covered with high reeds and, although I ultimately encamped near a +small lagoon within the reeds, the cattle would not venture to drink at +it, instinctively shrinking back from the muddy margin. In the course of +the evening one animal fell into the river and was extricated with great +difficulty and after much digging in the bank. One remarkable difference +between this river and the Murrumbidgee was that, in the latter, even +where reeds most prevailed, a certain space near the bank remained +tolerably clear: whereas on this river the reeds grew most thickly and +closely on its immediate banks, thus presenting a much less imposing +appearance than the Murrumbidgee, with its firmer banks crowned with +lofty forests of yarra. Each Australian river seems to have some peculiar +character, sustained with remarkable uniformity throughout the whole +course. + +HABITS OF OUR NATIVE GUIDES. + +June 19. + +Piper, although so far from his country, could still point directly to +it, but he had grown so homesick that he begged Burnett not to mention +Bathurst. To return except with us was quite out of the question, and as +we still receded he dragged, as the phrase is, a lengthening chain. He +studied my visage however and could read my thoughts too well to doubt +that I too hoped to return. The whole management of the chase now +devolved on him and the two boys, his humble servants; and this native +party usually explored the woods with our dogs for several miles in front +of the column. The females kept nearer the party, and often gave us +notice of obstacles in time to enable me to avoid them. My question on +such occasions was Dago nyollong yannagary? (Which way shall we go? ) to +which one would reply, pointing in the proper direction, Yalyai +nyollong-yannar! (Go that way.) Depending chiefly on the survey for my +longitude, my attention was for the most part confined to the +preservation of certain bearings in our course by frequent observations +of the pocket compass; but in conducting carts where no roads existed, +propitiating savage natives, taking bearings and angles, observing rocks, +soil and productions, so much care and anxious attention was necessary +that I believe I was indebted to the sympathy even of my aboriginal +friends for the zealous aid they at all times afforded. + +Notwithstanding the obvious necessity for closely watching the cattle, +they had been suffered to ramble nine miles up the river during the +night; and were not brought back to the camp until noon. This unusual and +untoward circumstance was the more surprising as the whole country along +the riverbank was covered with good grass. Whether they had instinctively +set off towards the upper country, where most of them were bred; or that +want of water after a hard day's work had occasioned such restlessness, +it was difficult to say; but they wandered even beyond the camp that we +reached this day in a journey commenced however only at half-past 12. + +NATIVES VERY SHY. + +The natives peeped over the reeds at us from a considerable distance; and +some of those whom Piper saw when in search of the men with the cattle, +immediately jumped into the river, carrying their spears and boomerangs +with them. We had not proceeded above a mile and a half when I perceived +among the reeds close to the berg on which we were travelling a small, +deep and still branch of the river, apparently connected with numerous +others, in all of which the water was quite still, although it had the +same muddy colour as that flowing in the river, and they seemed to be +equally deep. These still channels wound in all directions among the +reeds. Further on the water was not even confined to such canals, large +spaces between them being inundated, and lofty gum (or yarra) trees stood +even in the water. Light appeared at length through the wood before us, +which soon terminated on a sea of reeds bounded only by the horizon. On +ascending some sandhills confining this basin of reeds on our side, I +observed a low grassy ridge with pines upon it, and forming a limit to +the reedy basin, except in a part of the horizon which bore 14 degrees +South of East. A broad sheet of water (probably only an inundation +occasioned by the late rain) filled the centre of the reedy space. About +six miles from our last camp we came upon the river flowing with a strong +current; and at its full width the water not more than a foot below the +level of the right bank. Thus the Murray seemed to flow through that +reedy expanse, unmarked in its course by trees or bushes, although one or +two distant clumps of yarra probably grew on the banks of the permanent +stream. At two miles further on these trees again grew plentifully, close +under the berg along which we travelled, and where I hoped again to see +the river. We found however that the yarras only enclosed shallow +lagoons; and on a small oasis of dry ground near one of them we encamped +for the night. A species of solanum forming a very large bush was found +this day in the scrub, also several interesting shrubs, and among them +some fine specimens of that rare one, the Eucarya murrayana. But in all +these scrubs on the Murray the Fusanus acuminatus is common and produces +the quandang nut (or kernel) in such abundance that it and gum acacia may +in time become articles of commerce in Australia.* + +(*Footnote. Having brought home specimens of most of the woods of the +interior, I find that several of the acacias would be valuable for +ornamental work, having a pleasing perfume resembling that of a rose. +Some are of a dark colour of various shades and very compact; others +light-coloured and resembling in texture box or lancewood. The new caper +tree also resembles the latter so much as not to be distinguished from +it. Specimens of these woods may be seen at Hallet's, Number 83 High +Holborn.) + +June 20. + +The morning was frosty and clear. Soon after we left our encampment we +came to a ridge or berg, bare of trees with the exception of a fine clump +on the highest part; and behind it was an extensive flat which was also +destitute of wood, only a few atriplex bushes appearing upon it. I sent +the carts across this flat while I rode along the crest of the ridge. The +sea of reeds skirted this ridge on the north, and a meandro-serpentine +canal full of water intersected the reedy expanse in almost all +directions. The river flood had not reached it, at least if it had the +water continued unmoved by any current. I perceived some smoke arising +from the reeds at the distance of a mile, and at the extreme point of a +tongue of firmer ground which extended into them. + +PIPER SPEAKS TO NATIVES ON THE RIVER. + +Piper went boldly up to the fire and found three families of blacks in as +many canoes on the river. They told him there was a junction of rivers +some way ahead of us; and I understood him to say that part of these +natives had come across from Waljeers. The country opened more and more +as we proceeded, and the basin of reeds was more extensive. The bergs on +the opposite side (on which I had fixed several points) were distant on +an average about eight miles, which was the breadth therefore of that low +margin of reeds. The winding borders of this plain terminated on our side +in rich grassy flats, some of which extended back farther than I could +discover; and on two of these plains I perceived fine sheets of water, +surrounded by shining verdure and enclosed by sheltering hills clothed +with Callitris pyramidalis. + +GOOD LAND ON THE MURRAY. + +One or two spots seemed very favourable for farms or cattle stations. The +soil in these grassy flats was of the richest description: indeed the +whole of the country covered by reeds seemed capable of being converted +into good wheat land, and of being easily irrigated at any time by the +river. This stream was also navigable when we were there, and produce +might be conveyed by it at such seasons to the seashore. There was no +miasmatic savannah, nor any dense forest to be cleared; the genial +southern breeze played over these reedy flats which may one day be +converted into clover-fields. For cattle stations the land possessed +every requisite, affording excellent winter grass back among the scrubs +to which cattle usually resort at certain seasons; while at others they +could fatten on the rich grass of the plains, or during the summer heat +enjoy the reeds amid abundance of water. We found on these plains an +addition to the common grasses.* The fine open country afforded extensive +views, and to the eastward and south-east we saw hills with grassy sides +and crowned with callitris. + +(*Footnote. An Andropogon allied to A. bombycinus.) + +WOOD AND WATER SCARCE. + +Through the intervening valley flowed the Murray, the course of which was +seldom visible as no trees grew along its border. Under such +circumstances we could not encamp upon the bank, neither could it be +safely approached by cattle; and our prospect of obtaining wood and +watering our animals was this day rather uncertain. At length we came +upon a path which Mr. Stapylton pursued amongst high reeds for a mile +without reaching the river as we both expected. I continued to travel +towards four trees on the side of a green hill, still at a great distance +but in the direction in which I wished to proceed. + +JUNCTION OF TWO BRANCHES. SWAN HILL. + +When we arrived there just before sunset we had the good fortune to find +close under the hill a bend of the Murray, and to discover the junction +of another river or branch with it at this point. Within the margin we +found a small pond quite accessible to the cattle, and behind the hill +was an extensive flat covered with the richest grass. Here therefore we +could encamp most contentedly beside a clear hill, always a desirable +neighbour, and an accessible river. We were also thus enabled to +determine the junction perhaps of two rivers, an important object in +geography. The latitude was 35 degrees 19 minutes 43 seconds South. + +The lesser stream was about 50 yards wide, but below the junction the +main stream divided into two branches so that I was doubtful whether this +might not be only the termination of an ana-branch. From the falling off +of the bergs on the distant right bank, and the approach of a line of +lofty trees from the same quarter, I was almost convinced that some +junction took place thereabouts, as indeed the natives last seen had +informed us. During the day columns of smoke arose behind us in the +direction where we had seen these natives, and further eastward we +perceived a widespreading conflagration, doubtless caused by them +although this expression of ire troubled us but little so long as the +flames did not approach our route. The scrubs now receded from the river, +but the curious variety of acacias they contained still drew our +attention towards them. We found this day several which were new. One +with a rigid hard leaf, not in flower, resembled in many respects the A. +farinosa met with two days later, but it was perfectly smooth in all its +parts.* Another appeared to be related to A. hispidula, but with much +narrower leaves without the ragged cartilaginous margin of that +species.** + +(*Footnote. A. sclerophylla, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis +glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis rectiusculis linearibus apice +latioribus mucronulatis multinerviis glabris eglandulosis, capitulis 1-2 +sessilibus glaberrimis.) + +(**Footnote. A. aspera, Lindley manuscripts; phyllodiis +oblongo-linearibus uninerviis mucronatis eglandulosis ramisque angulatis +asperrimis, capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis villosis phyllodiis +duplo brevioribus.) + + +CHAPTER 3.7. + +Exploring through a fog. +Lakes. +Circular Lake of Boga. +Clear grassy hills. +Natives on the lake. +Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river. +Different character of two rivers. +Unfortunate result of Piper's interview with the natives of the lake. +Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia. +Different habits of the savage and civilized. +A range visible in the south. +Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river. +Water of the lakes brackish, or salt. +Natives fly at our approach. +Arrival in the dark, on the bank of a watercourse. +Dead saplings of ten years growth in the ponds. +Discovery of Mount Hope. +Enter a much better country. +Limestone. +Curious character of an original surface. +Native weirs for fish. +Their nets for catching ducks. +Remarkable character of the lakes. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion in search of the main stream. +My ride to Mount Hope. +White Anguillaria. +View from Mount Hope. +Return of Mr. Stapylton. + +SWAN HILL. + +June 21. + +Among the reeds on the point of ground between the two rivers was a +shallow lagoon where swans and other wild fowl so abounded that, although +half a mile from our camp, their noise disturbed us through the night. I +therefore named this somewhat remarkable and isolated feature Swan Hill, +a point which may probably be found to mark the junction of two fine +streams. + +EXPLORING THROUGH A FOG. + +I wished to devote the day to meteorological observations as prearranged +with my friends in the Colony, Mr. Dunlop and Captain King; but a thick +fog in the morning promised a day of clear settled weather, and I was +obliged to proceed; I observed the barometer however every hour during +the journey. For several miles we travelled through the mist over plains +partly covered with reeds and partly with grass. Having reconnoitred the +country on the previous evening I had no difficulty in pursuing the +direction I then chose for this day's route. + +LAKES. CIRCULAR LAKE OF BOGA. + +At eleven A.M. when the fog arose I perceived a low grassy ridge before +us; and a fine lake covered with black swans, ducks and other waterfowl +was afterwards discovered beyond it. We passed along the southern shore +of this lake, thus keeping it between us and the river. It was surrounded +with reeds and bulrushes, and appeared to be supplied by a small feeder +from the river, like other similar lakes which we had seen near rivers +elsewhere: but the water could pass by such small channels only during +the highest floods, for the lake was even then very low, although the +flood in the river was evidently high. This lake was about three miles in +circumference. + +CLEAR GRASSY HILLS. + +As I ascended a grassy hill two miles beyond it I perceived on my left +another smaller lake; with no reeds about it, but with grass growing to +the water's edge; and there we also found a curious little plant covered +with short imbricated silvery leaves, but not in flower. Behind the lake, +or away from the river, was the low scrub of the back country in which I +again saw, just coming into flower, the Cassia heteroloba discovered on +the 6th instant. On reaching the top of the hill I discovered to the +eastward a third lake, much larger than either of the others, and +apparently of a different character for its banks were higher, and it +contained one or two small islets while the surface of the water was +covered with some brown aquatic weed. It was bounded on the east by a +ridge which seemed green, smooth, and quite clear of trees. A low neck of +firm ground separated the lake first seen from this; and it was also +connected with the hill on which I then stood. + +NATIVES ON THE LAKE. + +In one place, a narrow line of high reeds appearing likely to impede us, +Mr. Stapylton rode forward to examine it. As he reached the spot much +smoke suddenly arose, evidently from natives whom he had thus +accidentally disturbed. He nevertheless pressed forward amongst the +reeds, and soon reappeared on the green hill beyond, thus showing us +there was no obstruction, and the carts proceeded through. These reeds +enveloped a small creek or hollow through which the floods of the river +supplied the lake. In one part was a pool of water, and in another the +bottom was so soft that the united strength of two teams was necessary to +draw out the wheel of a cart which sunk into it. We found there the huts +of natives who had fled on Mr. Stapylton's approach, having left their +fishing spears, skin cloaks, shields, etc. They soon appeared on the lake +in twenty-four canoes, all making for the little isle in the centre +which, being covered with reeds, was probably their stronghold according +to their modes of warfare. The aquatic tribes, as I have elsewhere +observed, invariably take to the water in times of alarm, and from among +the reeds in their little island these people could easily throw their +spears at any assailant without being themselves exposed, or even seen. +Piper found in their huts some fragments of blue earthenware, nicely +attached with gum to threads by which it would appear that the gins wore +them in their hair as ornaments. + +SCARCITY OF FUEL ON THE BANK OF A DEEP RIVER. + +Being desirous to learn the native names of these lakes, and to obtain +some information respecting the rivers, I requested Piper and the two +Tommies to remain behind for the purpose of obtaining a parley if +possible. I should indeed have encamped by this lake had not the environs +been entirely destitute of wood. Before us however, although at the +distance of some miles, was a line of majestic trees which appeared to +mark the course of a river; and I had directed Mr. Stapylton to lead the +party through the reeds along an interval which appeared to be chiefly +covered with grass, and by which I expected he would arrive at the line +of high trees. Meanwhile I was occupied alone to the southward of the +lake, surveying it. Near the margin I found a small fragment of highly +vesicular lava. + +DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER. + +The ground traversed by the party was firm and, when I overtook it within +a mile and a half of the line of trees, we came suddenly on a river full +to the very margin, and flowing slowly to the westward, its width being +about 50 yards. Not a tree grew near it, nor did I see any indication of +a river until I reached the bank. + +The ground presented an unbroken level, or declined slightly towards the +line of trees which still marked, as I supposed, the course of the +Murray. We had no means of reaching it however, nor any alternative left +but to change our route towards the east-south-east and travel along the +bank of this river, in hopes it might at last approach the trees. We +found on the contrary that it receded from them towards a country without +a single bush; and thus while the sun was setting on a raw frosty evening +we could not encamp for want of fuel, although water and grass were +abundant. One solitary group of trees seeming to be on our side of the +stream, though distant about two miles, Mr. Stapylton and myself galloped +towards them, the party following. There too we found the river, +separating us even from these trees, three very small ones only being on +our side, and likely to fall when cut into the stream. It had become +quite dark before we got to them but, by lighting some reeds, the rest of +the party found its way to us; and there we encamped, although the green +wood could not be made to burn, while the thermometer stood so low as 29 +degrees. We were perhaps more sensible of the want of fuel from the +abundance so apparent on the banks of what seemed another river at so +small a distance across the open plain. + +DIFFERENT CHARACTER OF TWO RIVERS. + +These streams flowing so near each other seemed in this respect +distinctly different: the one being edged with only reeds, the other with +lofty trees like almost every interior river of New South Wales. + +UNFORTUNATE RESULT OF PIPER'S INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES OF THE LAKE. + +Piper came in soon after the carts arrived, bringing a sad account of his +interview with the natives. It appeared that, as soon as our party had +proceeded to some distance from the lake, twelve men sprang from among +the reeds armed with spears, boomerangs, etc., and when Piper accosted +one of them, inquiring the name of the lake "I wont tell you," was the +answer (murry coolah, i.e. very angrily). They then told him there was +"too much ask" about him, and they blamed him for bringing the +whitefellows there; adding that they did not like him; and an old man +calling to the rest to kill him, for that he was no good, two spears were +immediately thrown. These Piper parried with his carabine, and then +instantly discharged it at the foremost, wounding him in the right jaw. +The rest immediately disappeared among the reeds. The wounded savage +fell, but Piper loaded again and killed him by another shot through the +body. Such was Piper's story. I blamed him very much for firing at the +wounded man, and I regretted exceedingly the result of his interview. I +was besides most anxious to maintain a good understanding with these +people. + +The spears used on this occasion were made of reed and pointed with bones +of the emu; but we saw at their huts several heavy jagged ones of very +hard wood for the purposes of fishing. The natives wore cloaks made of +kangaroo skins. + +DISCOVERY OF THE JERBOA IN AUSTRALIA. + +A very curious and rare little quadruped was this day found by the two +Tommies, who had never before seen such an animal. Its fore and hind legs +resembled in proportion those of the kangaroo; and it used the latter by +leaping on its hindquarters in the same manner as that animal. It was not +much larger than a common fieldmouse, but the tail was longer in +proportion to the rest of the body even than that of a kangaroo, and +terminated in a hairy brush about two inches long.* (Plate 29.) + +(*Footnote. This appears to be a species of Jerboa, thus for the first +time seen by us in Australia. My friend Mr. Ogilby has described this +animal in the Linnean Transactions from my drawing and descriptions; the +specimen itself having been deposited in the Australian Museum at Sydney. +Dipus mitchellii, D. plantis subpentadactylis; corpore supra +cinereo-fusco, subtus albido; auriculis magnis, cauda longissima, +floccosa. Linnean Transactions volume page 129.) + +We also discovered a beautiful new species of the Cape genus Pelargonium, +which would be an acquisition to our gardens. I named it P. rodneyanum* +in honour of Mrs. Riddell at Sydney, grand-daughter of the famous Rodney. + +(*Footnote. P. rodneyanum, Lindley manuscripts; patentim pilosum, caule +subterraneo horizontali crasso fragili ramos erectos promente apice +tantum epigaeos foliosos, ramulis herbaceis erectis, foliis +ovato-oblongis sublobatis basi cuneatis obtusis grosse crenatis tenuibus +glabriusculis longipetiolatis, pedunculis erectis foliis longioribus, +umbellis tomentosis 8-10-floris demum laxis divaricatis, petalis anguste +obovatis calyce triplo longioribus, staminum tubo obliquo: sterilium 3 +denticuliformibus, fortilium 2 sterilibus interjectis caeteris +longioribus.) + +DIFFERENT HABITS OF THE SAVAGE AND CIVILIZED. + +At this camp where we lay shivering for want of fire, the different +habits of the aborigines and us, strangers from the north, were strongly +contrasted. On that freezing night the natives, according to their usual +custom, stripped off all their clothes previous to lying down to sleep in +the open air, their bodies being doubled up around a few burning reeds. +We could not understand how they could lay thus naked when the earth was +white with hoar frost; and they were equally at a loss to know how we +could sleep in our tents without a bit of fire to keep our bodies warm. +For the support of animal heat, fire and smoke are almost as necessary to +them as clothes are to us. The naked savage however is not without some +reason on his side, for fire is the only means he possesses to warm his +body when cold, and it is therefore the only comfort he ever knows; +whereas we require both fire and clothing and have no conception of the +intensity of enjoyment imparted to the naked body of a savage by the +glowing embrace of a cloud of smoke in winter. In summer also he may +enjoy, unrestrained by dress, the luxury of a bath in any pool when not +content with the refreshing breeze that fans his sensitive body during +the intense heat. Amidst all this exposure the skin of the Australian +native remains as smooth and soft as velvet, and it is not improbable +that the obstructions of drapery would constitute the greatest of his +objections in such a climate to the permanent adoption of a civilised +life. + +A RANGE VISIBLE IN THE SOUTH. + +June 22. + +A night of hard frost was succeeded by a beautifully clear morning. The +refraction brought the summits of a distant range above the south-east +horizon; and the sight was so welcome to us, after having found Australia +a mere desert from the want of hills, that I was at a loss for a name to +give these that should sufficiently express my satisfaction. I found the +breadth of the river at our camp to be 50 yards; and the velocity 4 +chains (or 88 yards) in 127 seconds, being something less than a mile and +a half per hour; and the height of the bank above the water to be 18 +inches. + +PECULIARITIES IN THE SURFACE OF THE COUNTRY NEAR THE RIVER. + +The entirely open country through which the nearer river or branch +continued to flow, and the lofty and remarkable trees on the banks of the +other enabled me, in chaining along our route, to survey the course of +both by fixing points on the more distant, and tracing the nearer. At +length we approached a better-wooded country where clear green hills +appeared to our right. I ascended the highest of these and discovered a +vast plain beyond which appeared to be, or rather to have been, the bed +of an extensive lake. I was now struck with the uncommon regularity of +the curve described by the hill or ridge, having previously observed the +same peculiarity in that which overlooked the lake of the savage tribe. +We passed over some slight undulations covered with luxuriant grass, and +were not sorry to see a wood of pines (or callitris) on our left. Large +gumtrees (yarra) grew beyond and, the general course I wished to pursue +leading towards them, I hoped to reach there an angle of the river. We +found however that they hung over a small ana-branch only, in which the +muddy flood-water of the river was then flowing. This stream was +nevertheless exactly what we wanted, being safely accessible to our +cattle, which the river itself was not. We therefore pitched our tents on +a spot where there was excellent grass, and wood was again to be had in +great abundance. We found in the adjacent scrub a remarkably rigid bush +with stiff sickle-shaped blunt leaves and mealy balls of flowers not +quite expanded;* also an acacia resembling A. hispidula, but the leaves +were quite smooth and much smaller.** In approaching this spot we had +passed along a low sandy ridge, every way resembling a beach but covered +with pines and scrub. A bare grassy hill extended southward from each end +of it; and the intervening hollow containing some water was evidently the +bed of a lake, nearly dry. + +(*Footnote. It is found to be an acacia related to A. multinervia. A. +farinosa, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis, +phyllodiis rigidis carnosis incurvis linearibus apice latioribus +mucronatis multinerviis glabris: margine superiore infra medium +glanduloso, capitulis 2-4 axillaribus breviter pedunculatis farinosis.) + +(**Footnote. For description see 19th September.) + +June 23. + +The most eastern of these smooth bare ridges was immediately above our +camp and, observing in it the regularity of curve which I had noticed in +others, I was struck with the analogy, and in these ridges being always +on the eastern shore of hollows or lakes, while the western was +irregularly indented, and was in some parts so abrupt as to have the +character of cliffs. The southern end of the ridges was generally the +highest. + +WATER OF THE LAKES BRACKISH, OR SALT. + +Perceiving no reeds near the lake nor any birds upon it I sent Mr. +Stapylton to taste the water, which he found to be quite salt, like that +of the sea. This and several of the other basins were surrounded by high +ground and were without any communication with the river. + +NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH. + +I passed soon after another of these circular basins which, although much +smaller, presented similar features, and had some rather brackish water +in pools in the deepest part. During the day's journey we passed several +ridges connected with extensive basins in a similar manner, and in the +bottom of one of these I perceived Polygonum junceum growing amongst +yarra trees. On the western shore we saw the remains of large native +ash-hills. They were old and overgrown with bushes, but they proved that +this lake had once contained mussels and the balyan or bulrush, a root +eaten by the natives and cooked in such ovens as these. The other lake +was surrounded by a circle of yarra trees and had but recently become +dry, the earth in it being still without vegetation and covered with +innumerable native companions and white cockatoos. Finding no indication +of the river, notwithstanding the presence of so many yarra trees, I +turned to the east towards another line of them which appeared still more +promising. There however we encountered the dry bed only of a small creek +which we crossed, and continued eastward, passing over much grassy land, +and through much wood of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus. We +travelled thus upwards of seven miles beyond the dry creek without +discovering any sign of the river, although we had previously traced it +so far in pursuing a much more southerly direction. + +NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH. + +The natives were heard in this wood chopping with their stone hatchets +but they fled at our approach. On entering a small plain we saw their +deserted fire on the opposite side. Beyond this another plain, still more +extensive, appeared before us, and a few yarra trees on the horizon gave +some promise of water, though not of the river. + +ARRIVAL IN THE DARK, ON THE BANK OF A WATERCOURSE. + +Before I reached the spot and while far ahead of the party darkness had +overtaken us; but I found there a deep creek with some water in large +ponds; and by lighting a fire the carts at length came up to us, after a +journey of nineteen miles. This seemed by moonlight such a singular place +that I was anxious for daylight to see at what we had arrived. + +June 24. + +I expected to find the main stream not far from the ponds, but the +morning light shone over a plain which extended in a north-western +direction to the very horizon. It was bounded on the north by very +distant trees which had not the usual appearance of trees distinguishing +the river. The country on all sides seemed perfectly level, and if there +was any exception at all it was in the box forests to the southward +whence we had come, and where the land seemed lower than the plain on +which we had encamped. The bed of the creek was full twenty feet below +the general surface. The symmetry of the curves described by it was +remarkable, and it was rendered still more striking by a narrow line of +rushes which had grown on the margin of the water when it had stood at a +much higher level. + +DEAD SAPLINGS OF TEN YEARS GROWTH IN THE PONDS. + +A concentric border of grass of uniform breadth grew on the slope above +the rushes, and one of fragrant herbs below the line of rushes, all being +at nearly equal distances; while a single row of bare poles measuring +from three to five inches in diameter stood where a row of saplings had +grown in what had, at one time, been the very centre of the stream. These +poles were the remains of yarra trees eight or ten years old, and marked +the extent doubtless of a long period of drought which had continued +until some high flood killed them. + +DISCOVERY OF MOUNT HOPE. + +The grass was excellent over the whole of the plains on both sides and, +from a tree near the camp, Burnett descried a goodly hill bearing 36 1/2 +degrees East of South and distant, as afterwards ascertained, twenty-two +miles. + +Near our camp we found some recent fireplaces of the natives, from which +they must have hastily escaped on our approach for, in the branches of a +tree, they had left their net bags containing the stalks of a vegetable +that had apparently undergone some culinary process, which gave them the +appearance of having been half boiled. Vegetables are thus cooked, I was +told, by placing the root or plant between layers of hot embers until it +is heated and softened. The stalks found in the bag resembled those of +the potato, and they could only be chewed, such food being neither +nutritious nor palatable for it tasted only of smoke.* A very large +ash-hill, raised no doubt by repeated use in such simple culinary +operations, and probably during the course of a great many years, was +close to our camp. On its ample surface were just visible the vestiges of +a very ancient grave, once encompassed by exactly the same kind of ridges +that I had observed around the inhabited tomb near the junction of the +Lachlan and Murrumbidgee. The natives were at length seen about two miles +off on the skirts of the wood; and although I sent forward the overseer +and Piper, each carrying a large green bough, they all ran away, leaving +behind them their spears and skin cloaks. + +(*Footnote. July 17 1838. This plant has at length flowered in the +Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick and proves to be a new species of +Pieris of which Dr. Lindley has favoured me with the following +description: P. barbarorum; sparse hispida, foliis ciliatis supra nitidis +scabriusculis radicalibus spathulato-lanceolatis subdentatis caulinis +oblongis sessilibus amplexi-caulibus recurvis dentatis integrisque, caule +stricto ramoso, involucri foliolis lineari-lanceolatis acutis apice vel +secus dorsum serie simplici pilorum longorum reflexorum appendiculatis, +achaeniis badiis longe rostratis transverse rugosissimis disci +sterilibus.) + +While the party proceeded eastward along the bank of Moonlight creek, as +we named it, I sent Mr. Stapylton across the wide plain to ascertain, if +possible, whether the river flowed through it without the usual +indication of trees on its banks, as we had found to be the case below. +Mr. Stapylton found beyond the northern limits of the plain, amongst +yarra trees, an ana-branch only, but containing quite clear and still +water. + +The course of the creek which I in the meantime traced first led me to +the north-east where high trees seemed to mark its course, to the bed of +the river; but a smaller branch, still dry, extended southward from it, +which, on returning to the main party, I found it desirable that the +carts should cross. We next passed for three miles through a forest of +goborro, and then crossed a plain three miles in extent. Beyond the plain +we approached a promising line of lofty yarra trees, but found it shaded +only a hollow subject to inundations. Two miles and a half further we +came to another similar line of trees, and we found within its shade an +ana-branch full of clear water. A little in advance a much deeper branch +afforded a good spot for our camp, as I intended to cross it by some +means in the afternoon and seek for the river. + +ENTER A MUCH BETTER COUNTRY. + +The plains we had crossed this day were covered with excellent grass; and +in many places detached groups of trees gave to the country a park-like +appearance very unlike anything on the banks of the Darling. + +After crossing the creek by means of a fallen tree, I found the ground +beyond to be of the richest description, with excellent grass and lofty +yarra trees growing upon it. I passed through two separate strips of high +reeds extending north-east and south-west; but I found they only +enveloped lagoons of soft mud and, seeing no appearance of the river at +two miles from the camp, I returned. We found on the hills a little bush, +very like European heaths, having the branches covered with small +three-cornered leaves and tipped with clusters of small pink flowers.* + +(*Footnote. Baeckea micrantha.) + +LIMESTONE. + +June 25. + +The country we passed over this day was upon the whole richer in point of +grass than any we had seen since we left Sydney; I therefore suspected +that the soil had some better rock for a basis than sandstone; and I had +reason to believe that it was limestone, from indications of subsidence +which I observed on the surface. + +CURIOUS CHARACTER OF AN ORIGINAL SURFACE. + +We had discovered no similar country during either of the two former +journeys. There were none of the acacia trees we had seen on the lower +Bogan; while the grasses were also different from any of those on the +Darling. A fine new species of Daviesia, very like a Grevillea and +forming a most singular bush, grew here. It had no leaves, but green +branches formed into short, broad, thick vertical plates arranged +spirally, and much lower than the little axillary clusters of flowers +which were just beginning to open.* We also met with bushes of the rare +Trymalium majoranaefolium, a hoary bush with clusters of small grey +flowers, enclosed when young in a bright, large membranous involucre. +Once or twice distant rows of lofty gumtrees appeared to indicate the +line of the river; but on approaching them we found either dry hollows or +the same ana-branch, as it seemed, on which we last encamped. I observed +at several places that the more dense box-forests near this branch of the +river were skirted with ground broken into low undulations six or eight +feet square. These appeared where there was great depth of soil, and were +probably caused by deep rents or cracks opened at the first induration of +the deposit, and subsequently modified by rain and other atmospheric +agents. This seems to be the state of the deep deposits at the present +day where, from the absence of trees, the surface of tenacious soils +remains visible. I was first struck with this effect in the clays near +the Darling where alternate saturation and desiccation seemed to check +all vegetation. On the upper parts of the Bogan also I saw these +inequalities on a very large scale, but there the hollows still exist +under dense forests of casuarinae, and are so deep and extensive that I +for some time was induced to examine them in hopes of finding water; but +from a small hole or fissure still remaining there I soon learnt that any +such search was hopeless. + +(*Footnote. D. pectinata, Lindley manuscripts; glabra, aphylla, ramis +lateralibus ensiformibus crassis rigidis spinosis verticalibus pectinatim +spiralibus dorso decurrentibus racemulis glomeratis multo longioribus.) + +When we had travelled some miles, the hill we had seen from the camp on +Moonlight creek bore exactly south by compass, and appeared to be about +half the distance that it was from us when discovered. At 3 1/2 miles we +again came upon the ana-branch; a slight current now appeared in it and +the water was tinged with the turbid colour of the main stream. + +LAST CAMP ON THE MURRAY. + +After winding around several of its turnings we encamped at one P.M. +beside a large pool. This day's journey was nearly fourteen miles. + +June 26. + +The barometer being unusually low, and some long journeys having +prevented me from laying down my surveys of the lakes as well as having +fatigued the cattle, I halted here with the intention of filling up my +maps, refreshing the animals, and reconnoitring the country to the +south-west, in which direction a vast extent was unexplored. The river we +had endeavoured to trace thus far was now so shut in by ana-branches that +it could rarely be seen at all; but I had now brought the survey of it so +far upwards that I should be able to trace it, or its several +tributaries, downwards upon the same point when returning to the +northward, under the western extremities of the Snowy Range. I hoped then +also to obtain a better knowledge of the branches composing the Murray +than we possessed at this time. + +This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to cross the piece of water where we +had encamped, and endeavour to find the river in a north-east direction; +but he ascertained that the watercourse turned northward, and to the west +of north, without entering the river, as far as he traced it. He then +returned after having followed its course five miles without falling in +with the main stream. His party saw some of the natives who could not be +induced to stop by all the calls of Piper. + +NATIVE WEIRS FOR FISH. + +Mr. Stapylton observed in the channel he traced a net or fence of boughs +which the natives had that morning set up; and which showed not only that +they expected a flood, but also, from the manner in which it was placed, +that the water would flow first up the channel. This circumstance, as +already observed, is not unusual in ana-branches where the lower end is +naturally on a lower level, having been worn by the currents into a +deeper channel there than at the upper end, where the water not +unfrequently leaves the river by overflowing its banks in various +channels of small depth. + +THEIR NETS FOR CATCHING DUCKS. + +The natives had left in one place a net suspended across the river +between two lofty trees, evidently for the purpose of catching ducks and +other waterfowl. The meshes were about two inches wide, and the net hung +down to within five feet of the surface of the stream. In order to obtain +waterfowl with this net some of the natives proceed up, and others down, +the river to scare the birds from other places and, when any flight comes +into the net, it is suddenly lowered into the water, thus entangling the +birds beneath until the natives go into the water and secure them. Among +the first specimens of art manufactured by the primitive inhabitants of +these wilds none come so near our own as the net which, even in quality, +as well as the mode of knotting, can scarcely be distinguished from those +made in Europe. As these natives possess but little besides what was +essentially necessary to their existence, we may conclude that they have +used spears for killing the kangaroo, stone-axes for cutting out the +opossum, and nets for catching birds, or kangaroos, or fish, since their +earliest occupation of Australia.* Almost every specimen of art they +possess is the result of urgent necessity. Perhaps the iron tomahawk is +the only important addition made to their implements during many +centuries. + +(*Footnote. Isaiah 24:17 Fear, and the pit, and the snare are upon thee.] +"These images are taken from the different methods of hunting and taking +wild beasts which were anciently in use. The snare or toils were a series +of nets enclosing, at first, a great space of ground in which the wild +beasts were known to be, and drawn in by degrees into a narrower compass +till they were at last closely shut up and entangled in them." Harmer. +This is precisely the method adopted by the Australian natives at present +for the same or similar purposes.) + +REMARKABLE CHARACTER OF THE LAKES. + +On laying down my survey of the country which we had lately passed over I +found that the lakes were nearly all circular or oval, and that a very +regularly curved ridge, as before stated, bounded the eastern shore of +all of them. The number of lakes or hollows of this character already +seen by us to the south-west of the Murray amounted to eleven. In three +of them the water was salt, and the greater number had no communication +with the river; but between it and the others there was a narrow creek or +gully, but accessible only to the highest floods. The northern margin of +one of the salt lakes consisted of a bank of white sand on which grew +thickly a kind of pine, different from the trees around. The channels +between the river and the lakes seemed neither to belong to the original +arrangement of watercourses, nor to ana-branches of the rivers; for they +frequently extended upwards in directions opposed to that of the river's +course. The fact being established that some of these lakes have no +obvious connection with the river, it becomes probable that they are the +remains of what the surface was before the fluviatile process began to +carry off its waters. I had no difficulty in referring to an early system +of this kind other lakes which we had seen elsewhere, the anomalous +peculiarities of which were equally remarkable. Among these were +Cudjallagong and others adjacent; Waljeers; the two smaller on the +Murrumbidgee named Weromba; also Lake Benanee and Prooa its neighbour; in +all which the peculiarities accorded with what I had observed in those on +the left bank of the Murray. + +MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF THE MAIN STREAM. + +June 27. + +The morning was clear and Mr. Stapylton set out with a party of six men +to trace, if possible, the branch on which we were encamped into the main +stream. At ten the weather became hazy; at noon the sky was overcast; and +at two P.M. a steady rain set in which continued until six P.M. when the +barometer began to rise and, the moon soon after shining out, the sky +became once more serene. A hill apparently covered with good grass was +within sight of our present camp but inaccessible from it because a reach +of deep and still water intervened. This day I sent Burnett with Piper to +the hill, and they brought me some of the soil which I found consisted of +loose red sand. + +MY RIDE TO MOUNT HOPE. + +June 28. + +The morning being fine I at length proceeded towards the hill which we +had already twice seen from great distances. It bore 206 degrees 45 +minutes (from North) and was exactly ten miles from our camp. After +riding six miles through box-forest we crossed a dry creek, and +immediately entered upon an extensive plain beyond which I had the +satisfaction of seeing the hopeful hill straight before me. + +This hill consisted of immense blocks of common granite composed of white +felspar and quartz and black mica; and it appeared to form the western +extremity of a low range. It was indeed a welcome sight to us all after +traversing for several months so much flat country; and to me it was +particularly interesting for, from its summit, I expected to obtain an +extensive view over the unknown region between us and the southern coast. +I accordingly named the hill Mount Hope. + +WHITE ANGUILLARIA. + +On the verdant plain near its foot we found a beautiful white +anguillaria, a flower we had not seen elsewhere and which, +notwithstanding the season, was in full bloom and had a pleasing perfume. +It might indeed be called the Australian snowdrop for its hardy little +blossom seemed quite insensible to the frost. + +VIEW FROM MOUNT HOPE. + +On reaching the summit of Mount Hope I saw various higher hills extending +from south-south-west to west-south-west at a distance of about 35 miles. +They were not all quite connected, and I supposed them to be only the +northern extremities of some higher ranges still more remote. I perceived +along their base a line of lofty trees, but it was most apparent on the +horizon to the westward of the heights. The intervening country +consisted, as far as the glass enabled me to examine it, of open grassy +plains, beautifully variegated with serpentine lines of wood. In all +other directions the horizon was unbroken and, as the trees of the Murray +vanished at a point bearing 143 1/2 degrees from North on the border of a +very extensive plain, I concluded that an important change took place +there in the course of that river or the Goulburn (of Hovell and Hume); +for it was uncertain then which river we were near. The granitic range of +Mount Hope terminates in the plains, one or two bare rocks only +projecting above ground on the flats westward of the hill. On its summit +we found some plants quite new to us and, among the rocks on its sides, a +species of anguillaria different from that on the plains, being larger in +the stem and having a dark brown ring within the chalice, the edge of the +leaves being tinged with the same colour.* We found here again the +Baeckea micrantha seen on the 24th instant, also a remarkable new species +of Eriostemon forming a scrubby spiny bush, with much the appearance of a +Leptospermum,** and a new and very beautiful species of Pleurandra, with +the aspect of the yellow Cistus of the Algarves.*** A remarkable hill of +granite appeared 5 1/3 miles from Mount Hope, bearing 30 degrees 10 +minutes West of South. It is a triangular pyramid and, being quite +isolated, it closely resembles the monuments of Egypt. + +(*Footnote. Anguillaria dioica.) + +(**Footnote. E. pungens, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis teretibus +pilosulis, foliis acerosis pungentibus glandulosis, pedicellis solitariis +axillaribus brevibus unifloris, staminibus glabriusculis, antheria +inappendiculatis.) + +(***Footnote. P. incana, Lindley manuscripts; foliis linearibus obtusis +tomentosis marginibus revolutis costam tangentibus, floribus sessilibus +terminalibus, staminibus 6 ima basi monadelphis.) + +Soon after my return to the camp Mr. Stapylton came in with his party, +having succeeded in finding the river by tracing the branch upwards of +thirteen miles. This branch was connected with others on both sides, so +that Mr. Stapylton was obliged at last to cross it, and make direct for +the river which, at the point where he fell in with it, was running at +the rate of 2940 yards per hour, and was 99 yards wide, being therefore +probably still the Murray itself. + +RETURN OF MR. STAPYLTON. + +The country which I had seen this day beyond Mount Hope was too inviting +to be left behind us unexplored; and I therefore determined to turn into +it without further delay, and to pursue the bearing of 215 degrees from +North as the general direction of our route, until we should fall in with +the line of river trees before mentioned. + + +CHAPTER 3.8. + +The Party quits the Murray. +Pyramid Hill. +Beautiful country seen from it. +Discovery of the river Yarrayne. +A bridge made across it. +Covered by a sudden rise of the river. +Then cross it in boats. +Useful assistance of Piper. +Our female guide departs. +Enter a hilly country. +Ascend Barrabungalo. +Rainy weather. +Excursion southward. +The widow returns to the party. +Natives of Tarray. +Their description of the country. +Discover the Loddon. +The woods. +Cross a range. +Kangaroos numerous. +The earth becomes soft and impassable, even on the sides of hills. +Discover a noble range of mountains. +Cross another stream. +Another. +General character of the country. +Proposed excursion to the mountains. +Richardson's creek. +Cross a fine stream flowing in three separate channels. +A ridge of poor sandy soil. +Cross another stream. +Trap-hills and good soil. +Ascend the mountain. +Clouds cover it. +A night on the summit. +No fuel. +View from it at sunrise. +Descend with difficulty. +Men taken ill. +New plants found there. +Repose in the valley. +Night's rest. +Natives at the camp during my absence. + +THE PARTY QUITS THE MURRAY. + +June 29. + +The party moved forward in the direction of Mount Hope and, leaving it on +the left, we continued towards Pyramid Hill where we encamped at about +three-quarters of a mile from its base. We were under no restraint now in +selecting a camp from any scarcity of water or grass; for all hollows in +the plains contained some water and grass grew everywhere. The strips of +wood which diversified the country as seen from the hills generally +enclosed a depression with polygonum bushes, but without any marks of +having had any water in them although, in very wet seasons, some probably +lodges there, as in so many canals, and this indeed seemed to me to be a +country where canals would answer well, not so much perhaps for inland +navigation as for the better distribution of water over a fertile country +enclosed as this is by copious rivers. + +PYRAMID HILL. + +June 30. + +Having seen the party on the way and directed it to proceed on a bearing +of 215 degrees from North I ascended the rocky pyramidic hill, which I +found arose to the height of 300 feet above the plain. + +BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY SEEN FROM IT. + +Its apex consisted of a single block of granite, and the view was +exceedingly beautiful over the surrounding plains, shining fresh and +green in the light of a fine morning. The scene was different from +anything I had ever before witnessed either in New South Wales or +elsewhere. A land so inviting and still without inhabitants! As I stood, +the first European intruder on the sublime solitude of these verdant +plains as yet untouched by flocks or herds, I felt conscious of being the +harbinger of mighty changes; and that our steps would soon be followed by +the men and the animals for which it seemed to have been prepared. A +haziness in the air prevented me however from perceiving clearly the +distant horizon from that summit, but I saw and intersected those +mountains to the southward which I had observed from Mount Hope. + +The progress of the party was still visible from that hill, pursuing +their course over the distant plains like a solitary line of ants. I +overtook it when a good many miles on; and we encamped after travelling +upwards of fourteen miles in one uninterrupted straight line. Our camp +was chosen on the skirts of a forest of box, having a plain on the east +covered with rich grass, and where we found some small pools of +rainwater. + +July 1. + +Proceeding still on the bearing followed yesterday we reached at three +miles from our camp a fine chain of ponds. They were deep, full of water, +and surrounded by strong yarra trees. Passing them we met a small scrub +of casuarinae which we avoided; and we next entered on a fine plain in +which the anthisteria or oatgrass appeared. This is the same grass which +grows on the most fertile parts of the counties of Argyle and Murray and +is, I believe, the best Australian grass for cattle: it is also one of +the surest indications of a good soil and dry situation. + +DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER YARRAYNE. + +Beyond the plain the line of noble yarra trees, which I had observed from +Mount Hope, gave almost certain promise of a river; and at 6 1/2 miles +our journey was terminated by a deep running stream. The banks were steep +and about twenty feet high, but covered thickly with grass to the edge of +the water. The yarra trees grew by the brink of the stream and not on the +top of the bank. The water had a brown appearance as if it came from +melted snow but, from the equality of depth (about nine feet) and other +circumstances, I was of opinion that it was a permanent running stream. +The current ran at the rate of four chains in 122 seconds, or near 1 1/2 +mile per hour; thus it would appear from what we had seen that there is +much uniformity in the velocity of the rivers, and consequently in the +general inclination of the surface. The banks of this little river were +however very different in some respects from any we had previously seen, +being everywhere covered thickly with grass. No fallen timber impeded its +course, nor was there any indication in the banks that the course was +ever in the least degree affected by such obstructions. + +A BRIDGE MADE ACROSS IT. + +It was so narrow that I anticipated little difficulty in making a bridge +by felling some of the overhanging trees. Finding a large one already +fallen across the stream where the slopes of the banks could be most +readily made passable, we lost no time in felling another which broke +against the opposite bank and sunk into the water. No other large trees +grew near but the banks were, at that place, so favourable for the +passage of the waggons that I determined to take advantage of the large +fallen tree; and to construct a bridge by bringing others of smaller +dimensions to it, according to the accompanying plan, and not unmindful +of the useful suggestions of Sir Howard Douglas respecting temporary +bridges. + +July 2. + +Late in the evening of this day we completed a bridge formed of short but +strong sleepers, laid diagonally to the fallen tree which constituted its +main support, and the whole was covered with earth from cuttings made in +the banks to render it accessible to the carts. At length everything was +ready for crossing and we had thus a prospect of being able to advance +beyond the river into that unknown but promising land of hill and dale. + +COVERED BY A SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER. + +July 3. + +This morning our bridge was no longer to be seen, the river having risen +so much during the night that it was four feet under water. Yet no rain +had fallen for five days previous, and we could account for this +unexpected flood only by supposing that the powerful shining of the sun +during the last two days had melted the snow near the sources of the +stream. At noon the water had risen fourteen feet. A whispering sound +much resembling wind among the trees now arose from it and, however +inconvenient to us, the novelty of a sudden rise in the river was quite +refreshing, accustomed as we had been so long to wander in the beds of +rivers and to seek in vain for water. Our little bridge continued to be +passable even when covered with four feet of water but, as it had no +parapets, we could not prevent some of the bullocks from going over the +side on attempting to cross when it was thus covered. + +THEN CROSS IT IN BOATS. + +The river still continuing to rise, we were compelled at last to launch +the boats, and by this means we effected the passage of the whole party +and equipment before sunset; the boats having been also again mounted on +the carriage the same evening. The carts and boat-carriage were drawn +through the bed of the river by means of the drag-chains which reached +from the carriage on one side to a strong team of bullocks on the other. + +USEFUL ASSISTANCE OF PIPER. + +This was a very busy day for the whole party, black and white; I cannot +fairly say savage and civilised for, in most of our difficulties by flood +and field, the intelligence and skill of our sable friends made the +whitefellows appear rather stupid. They could read traces on the earth, +climb trees, or dive into the water better than the ablest of us. In +tracing lost cattle, speaking to the wild natives, hunting, or diving, +Piper was the most accomplished man in the camp. In person he was the +tallest, and in authority he was allowed to consider himself almost next +to me, the better to secure his best exertions. When Mr. Stapylton first +arrived Piper came to my tent and observed that "That fellow had TWO +coats," no doubt meaning that I ought to give one of them to him! The men +he despised, and he would only act by my orders. This day he rendered us +much useful assistance in the water; for instance, when a cart stuck in +the bottom of the river, the rope by which it was to be drawn through +having broken, Piper, by diving, attached a heavy chain to it, thereby +enabling the party to draw it out with the teams. + +OUR FEMALE GUIDE DEPARTS. + +At this place The Widow, being far beyond her own country, was inclined +to go back and, although I intended to put her on a more direct and safe +way home after we should pass the heads of the Murrumbidgee on our +return, I could not detain her longer than she wished. Her child, to whom +she appeared devotedly attached, was fast recovering the use of its +broken limb; and the mother seemed uneasy under an apprehension that I +wanted to deprive her of this child. I certainly had always wished to +take back with me to Sydney an aboriginal child with the intention of +ascertaining what might be the effect of education upon one of that race. +This little savage, who at first would prefer a snake or lizard to a +piece of bread, had become so far civilised at length as to prefer bread; +and it began to cry bitterly on leaving us. The mother however thought +nothing of swimming, even at that season, across the broad waters of the +Millewa, as she should be obliged to do, pushing the child before her, +floating on a piece of bark. + +ENTER A HILLY COUNTRY. + +July 4. + +At the distance of about a mile to the southward a line of trees marked +the course of another channel which, containing only a few ponds, we +crossed without difficulty. Beyond it we traversed a plain five miles in +extent, and backed by low grassy hills composed of grey gneiss. The most +accessible interval between these hills still appeared to be in the +direction I had chosen at Mount Hope, as leading to the lowest opening of +a range still more distant: I therefore continued on that bearing, having +the highest of those hills to our left at the distance of five or six +miles. On entering the wood skirting the wide plain, our curiosity was +rather disappointed at finding, instead of rare things, the black-butted +gum and casuarinae, trees common in the colony. The woolly gum also grew +there, a tree much resembling the box in the bark on its trunk, although +that on the branches, unlike the box, is smooth and shining. In this wood +we recognised the rosella parrot, and various plants so common near +Sydney but not before seen by us in the interior. + +At ten miles we travelled over undulating ground for the first time since +we left the banks of the Lachlan; and we crossed a chain of ponds +watering a beautiful and extensive valley covered with a luxuriant crop +of the anthisteria grass. Kangaroos were now to be seen on all sides, and +we finally encamped on a deeper chain of ponds, probably the chief +channel of the waters of that valley. A ridge of open forest-hills +appearing before us, I rode to the top of one of the highest summits +while the men pitched the tents; and from it I perceived a hilly country +through whose intricacies I at that time saw no way, and beyond it a +lofty mountain range arose in the south-west. To venture into such a +region with wheel-carriages seemed rather hazardous when I recollected +the coast ranges of the colony; and I determined to examine it further +before I decided whether we should penetrate these fastnesses, or travel +westward round them, thus to ascertain their extent in that direction and +that of the good land watered by them. + +July 5. + +I proceeded with several men mounted towards the lofty hill to the +eastward of our route, the highest of those I had intersected from Mount +Hope and the Pyramid-hill, its aboriginal name, as I afterwards learnt, +being Barrabungale.* Nearly the whole of our way was over granite rocks. +We had just reached a naked mass near the principal summit when the +clouds, which had been lowering for some time, began to descend on the +plains to the northward, and soon closing over the whole horizon +compelled me to return, without having had an opportunity of observing +more than that the whole mass of mountains in the south declined to the +westward. This was however a fact of considerable importance with respect +to our further progress; for I could enter that mountain-region with less +hesitation as I knew that I could leave it, if necessary, and proceed +westward by following down any of the valleys which declined in that +direction. + +(*Footnote. Warrabangle is a very similar name and belongs to a hill +similarly situated five degrees further to the northward. See Map.) + +ASCEND BARRABUNGALE. RAINY WEATHER. EXCURSION SOUTHWARD. + +July 6. + +The morning being rainy, I could learn nothing more by ascending +Barrabungale as I intended; but I rode into the country to the southward +in order to examine it in the direction in which I thought it most +desirable to lead the party. After passing over several well-watered +grassy flats or valleys, each bounded by open forest-hills, we crossed at +six miles from the camp a range the summit of which was covered by a low +scrub, but it did not much impede our way. Beyond this range we again +found open forest land, and we saw extensive flats still more open to our +right, in which direction all the waters seemed to fall. At length, after +travelling about twelve miles, we came upon a deep chain of ponds winding +through a flat thickly covered with anthisteria and resembling a field of +ripe grain. Smoke arose in all directions from an extensive camp of +natives but, although I cooeyed and saw them at a distance, they +continued to crouch behind trees and would not approach. I did not +disturb them further, but returned with the intention of leading the +party there the next day when I hoped to see more of these natives. An +abundance of a beautiful white or pale yellow-flowered, herbaceous plant +reminding me of the violets of Europe, to which it was nearly allied, +grew on the sides of hills.* + +(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus +Pigea. P. floribunda, Lindley manuscripts; caule erecto ramoso, foliis +alternis linearibus et lineari-lanceolatis obtusis glabris, racemulis +secundis paucifloris foliis brevioribus, sepalis petalisque glandulosis +ovatis acutis, labelli lamina obovata rotundata basi bilamellata, +antheris sessilibus syngenistis apice lamina oblonga membranacea acutis, +processibus 2 corniformibus basi staminum 2 anteriorum.) + +THE WIDOW RETURNS TO THE PARTY. + +In the evening The Widow returned with her child on her back. She stated +that after we left our late encampment a numerous tribe arrived on the +opposite bank of the river and, seeing the fires on her side, called out +very angrily, as Piper translated her tale, "murry coola" (very angry); +inquiring who had made those fires, and that, receiving no reply (for she +was afraid and had hid herself) they danced a corrobory in a furious +style during which she and the child crept away, and had passed two +nights without fire and in the rain. Piper seemed angry at her return, +but I took particular care that she should be treated with as much +kindness as before. She was a woman of good sense and had been with us +long enough to feel secure under our protection, even from the wrath of +Piper as displayed on this occasion; and I discovered that her attempted +return home had been suggested by Piper's gin who probably anticipated a +greater share of food after The Widow's departure. + +NATIVES OF TARRAY. THEIR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. + +July 7. + +The party moved to the creek where I had before seen the natives; and +Piper found at their fires an old woman and several boys. They said, +pointing far to the south-east, doubtless to Port Phillip, that a station +of whitefellows was there and that they had been themselves to the sea, +which was not very distant. The old woman spoke with expressive gestures +of a part of the coast she called Cadong, where the waves raged; and of a +river she named Woollamaee running into it. It appeared that the rest of +the tribe were at that time in search of opossums; but she promised that +when they returned in the evening or next day some of them should visit +our camp. + +July 8. + +This morning Piper prevailed on an old man with his gins and some boys to +come to us. The former pointed towards Cadong in the direction of 232 +degrees from North and, in reply to my queries through Piper, said it was +not Geelong (Port Phillip) but a water like it; and that no white men had +ever been there. On mentioning lake Alexandrina by its native name +Keyinga, he said that it was a place filled sometimes with rain (i.e. +river-) water and not like Cadong which was saltwater. He described the +whole country before us as abounding in good water and excellent grass; +and he said that in the direction I was pursuing there was no impediment +between me and the sea coast. Piper's countenance brightened up with the +good news this man gave him; assuring me that we should "find water all +about: no more want water." In return for all this intelligence I +presented the old man with an iron tomahawk which he placed under him as +he sat; and he continued to address me with great volubility for some +time. I was told by Piper that he was merely saying how glad he was, and +enumerating (apparently with a sort of poetic fervour) the various uses +to which he could apply the axe I had given him. I left these natives +with the impression on my mind that they were quiet, well-disposed +people. + +FINE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. + +Proceeding a little west of south-west we intersected this creek (Tarray) +three times, leaving it finally flowing southward and to our left, into +that of Dyoonboors which it joined at a mile and a half from where we had +been encamped. At three miles, having crossed a low ridge of forest land, +we entered a fine valley, backed on the west by romantic forest hills, +and watered by some purling brooks which united in the woods on the east. +The flat itself had a few stately trees upon it, and seemed quite ready +to receive the plough; while some round hillocks on the north were so +smooth and grassy that the men said they looked as if they had already +been depastured by sheep. From an extremity of the clear ridge I obtained +an extensive view of the mountain chain to the south-east; and I +intersected most of its summits. The whole seemed smooth (i.e. not rocky) +grassy, and thinly timbered. Crossing the lower or outer extremity of +this forest ridge, we entered another fine valley watered by a creek +which we passed at six miles from the commencement of the day's journey. +This little channel was grassy to the water's edge, and its banks were +firm and about eight feet high, the course being eastward. In the valley +I saw the Banksia for the first time since we left the Lachlan. A +calamifolia, or needle-leaved wattle, occurred also in considerable +quantity. After crossing two more brooks and some flats of fine land with +grassy forest-hills on our right, we reached the crest of a forest-range +which afforded an extensive view over the country beyond it. The surface +seemed to be low for some distance, but then to rise gradually towards +some rocky points over which were partially seen the summits of a higher +range still further southward. + +DISCOVER THE LODDON. + +The descent to the low country was easy for our carts; and we found there +a beautifully green and level flat, bounded on the south by a little +river flowing westward. The banks of this stream consisted of rounded +acclivities and were covered with excellent grass. The bed was 18 or 20 +feet below the level of the adjacent flats and, from its resemblance in +some respects to the little stream in England, I named it the Loddon. We +encamped on its bank in latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes 49 seconds South, +longitude 143 degrees 35 minutes 30 seconds East. + +July 9. + +By continuing the same line of route we crossed several minor rivulets, +all flowing through open grassy vales bounded by finely undulating hills. +At about three miles we came to a deep chain of ponds, the banks being +steep and covered with grass. Keeping a tributary to that channel on our +left, we passed some low hills of quartz; and a little beyond them we +crossed poor hills of the same rock bearing an open box-forest. + +THE WOODS. + +After travelling through a little scrub we descended on one of the most +beautiful spots I ever saw: The turf, the woods, and the banks of the +little stream which murmured through the vale had so much the appearance +of a well kept park that I felt loth to injure its surface by the passage +of our cartwheels. Proceeding for a mile and a half along the rivulet and +through a valley wholly of the same description, we at length encamped on +a flat of rich earth (nearly quite black) and where the anthisteria grew +in greater luxuriance than I had ever before witnessed in Australian +grasses. The earth indeed seemed to surpass in richness any that I had +seen in New South Wales; and I was even tempted to bring away a specimen +of it. Our dogs killed three kangaroos, and this good fortune was most +timely as I had that very morning thought it advisable to reduce the +allowance of rations. + +July 10. + +Tracing upwards the rivulet of the vale we left this morning we passed +over much excellent grassy land watered by it, the channel containing +some very deep ponds surrounded by the white-barked eucalyptus. + +CROSS A RANGE. + +A hill on its bank consisted of a conglomerate in which the ferruginous +matter predominated over the embedded fragments of quartz. The ground +beyond was hilly, and we at length ascended a ridge, apparently an +extremity of a higher range. On these hills grew the varieties of +eucalypti known in the colony, such as ironbark, bluegum, and +stringybark. The lower grounds were so wet and soft, and the watercourses +in them so numerous, that I was desirous to follow a ridge as long as it +would take us in the direction in which we were proceeding; and this +range answered well for the purpose. Its crest consisted of ferruginous +sandstone much inclined, the strike extending north-north-west. I found +the opposite side much more precipitous, and that it overlooked a much +lower country. In seeking a favourable line of descent for the carts, I +climbed a still higher forest-hill on the left, which consisted chiefly +of quartz-rock. I not only recognised from that hill some lofty points to +the eastward, and obtained angles on them, but I also perceived very +rugged summits of a range at a great distance in the south-west. Having +selected among the various hills and dales before me that line of route +which seemed the best and, having taken its bearing, I returned to +conduct the carts by a pass along one side of that hill, having found it +in a very practicable state for wheel-carriages. At three miles beyond +the pass we crossed a deep creek running westward which I named the +Avoca, and we encamped on an excellent piece of land beyond it. + +KANGAROOS NUMEROUS. + +This day we had even better fortune in our field sports than on the one +before for, besides three kangaroos, we killed two emus, one of which was +a female and esteemed a great prize, for I had discovered that the eggs +found in the ovarium were a great luxury in the bush; and afforded us a +light and palatable breakfast for several days. + +July 11. + +At the end of two miles on this day's journey we crossed a deep stream +running westward. The height of its banks above the water was twelve +feet, and they were covered with a rich sward. The land along the margins +of the stream was as good as that we were now accustomed to see +everywhere around us, so that it was no longer necessary to note the +goodness or beauty of any place in particular. At four miles we passed +over a forest-hill composed of mica-slate and, after crossing another +good valley at six miles, I saw before us, on gaining a low forest ridge, +other grassy hills of still greater height, connected by a rock that cost +us less trouble to ascend than I expected. + +THE EARTH BECOMES SOFT AND IMPASSABLE, EVEN ON THE SIDES OF HILLS. + +It was in the valleys now that we met most difficulty, the earth having +become so soft and wet that the carts could be got through some places +only by the tedious process of dragging each successively with the united +strength of several teams. + +DISCOVER A NOBLE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS. + +From a high forest-hill about a mile east of our route I first obtained a +complete view of a noble range of mountains rising in the south to a +stupendous height, and presenting as bold and picturesque an outline as +ever painter imagined. The highest and most eastern summit was hid in the +clouds although the evening was serene. It bore West of South 26 degrees +54 minutes; and the western extremity, which consisted of a remarkably +round hill, bore 16 degrees 30 minutes South of West. Having descended +from the range by an easy slope to the southward, we passed through a +beautiful valley in which we crossed, at a mile and a quarter from the +hills, a fine stream flowing also westward; and in other respects similar +to those we had already met. I named it Avon water and we encamped on its +left bank. + +CROSS ANOTHER STREAM. + +July 12. + +At two miles and a half from the spot where we had slept we crossed +another stream flowing west-north-west which I named the Small-burn. +Beyond it the ground was good and grassy, but at this season very soft, +so that the draught was most laborious for the cattle. At seven miles we +crossed a wet flat with ponds of water standing on it, and beyond we +entered on a clay soil altogether different from any hitherto passed on +this side the Yarrayne. + +ANOTHER. + +About eight miles from our camp we reached a fine running brook with +grassy banks, its course being to the north-west. The bed consisted of +red-sand and gravel, and the banks were about fourteen feet high, +presenting fine swelling slopes covered with turf. On this stream, which +I named the Dos casas, I halted, as it was doubtful whether some of the +carts could be brought even so far before night, the ground having proved +soft and rotten to such a degree, especially on the slopes of low hills, +that in some cases the united strength of three teams had been scarcely +sufficient to draw them through. It was night before the last cart +arrived, and two bullocks had been left behind in an exhausted state. + +GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +July 13. + +We had at length discovered a country ready for the immediate reception +of civilised man; and destined perhaps to become eventually a portion of +a great empire. Unencumbered by too much wood, it yet possessed enough +for all purposes; its soil was exuberant and its climate temperate; it +was bounded on three sides by the ocean; and it was traversed by mighty +rivers, and watered by streams innumerable. Of this Eden I was the first +European to explore its mountains and streams, to behold its scenery, to +investigate its geological character and, by my survey, to develop those +natural advantages certain to become, at no distant date, of vast +importance to a new people. The lofty mountain range which I had seen on +the 11th was now before us, but still distant between thirty and forty +miles; and as the cattle required rest I determined on an excursion to +its lofty eastern summit. Such a height was sure to command a view of the +country between these mountains and the sea in the direction of Lady +Julia Percy's Isles; and of that region between the range and those less +connected forest-hills I had seen to the eastward. + +PROPOSED EXCURSION TO THE MOUNTAINS. + +When I first discovered these mountains I perceived that the land +immediately to the eastward of them was very low and that, if I found it +necessary, I might conduct the party in that direction to the coast. I +was however more desirous to level my theodolite on that summit first, +and thus obtain valuable materials for the construction of an accurate +map of the whole country around it. I accordingly left the party encamped +and proceeded towards the mountain, accompanied by six men on horseback, +having previously instructed Mr. Stapylton to employ the men during my +absence in forming a way down the bank, and a good ford across the stream +in order that there might be no impediment to the immediate advance of +the party on my return. + +RICHARDSON'S CREEK. + +Pursuing the bearing of 193 degrees we crossed, at three miles from the +camp, a deep creek similar to that on which it was placed; and the first +adventure of the morning occurred here. The fordable place was so narrow +that the horse of one of the party plunged into the deep water with its +rider who, while the animal was swimming, incautiously pulled the bridle +and of course overturned it, so that they parted company in the water, +the horse reaching one bank, the rider the other. The latter, who was my +botanical collector Richardson, took his soaking on a cold frosty morning +so philosophically, talking to his comrades as he made his way to the +bank, partly swimming, partly floating on two huge portfolios, that I +gave his name to the creek, the better to reconcile him to his wet +jacket. We entered soon after upon one of the finest tracts of grassy +forest land we had ever seen. The whole country recently crossed was +good, but this was far better, having several broad and deep ponds, or +small lakes, in the woods, and all full of the clearest water. At eight +miles I perceived a forest-hill on my left (or to the eastward) and the +country before us was so open, sloping and green, that I felt certain we +were approaching a river; and we soon came upon one, which was full, +flowing and thirty feet wide, being broader than the Yarrayne but not so +uniformly deep. Unlike the latter river, reeds grew about its margin in +some places, and its banks, though grassy and fifteen feet high, were +neither so steep as those of the Yarrayne, nor so closely shut together. + +CROSS A FINE STREAM FLOWING IN THREE SEPARATE CHANNELS. + +We swam our horses across, but our progress had scarcely commenced again +on the other side when it was impeded by another similar stream or +channel. In this we managed, with Piper's assistance, to find a ford but, +at less than a quarter of a mile, we met a third channel, more resembling +the first in the height of its banks and velocity of the current, and +also from its flowing amongst bushes. This we likewise forded, and +immediately after we ascended a piece of rising ground which convinced me +that we had at length crossed all the branches of that remarkable river. +It is probable we came upon it where it received the waters of +tributaries, and some of these channels might be such. + +A RIDGE OF POOR SANDY SOIL. + +We next fell in with some undulating ground different in many respects +from any that we had traversed during the morning. The soil was poor and +sandy; and the stunted trees and shrubs of the Blue mountains grew upon +it, instead of the novelties we expected at such a great distance from +home. We also recognised the birds common about Sydney. On reaching the +higher part of this ground (at nine miles) I again saw the mountain which +then bore 196 degrees. The intervening ground seemed to consist of a low +ridge rather heavily wooded, its crest presenting a line as level as the +ocean. At eleven miles I supposed we were upon the dividing ground +between the sea-coast country and that of the interior, and on what +appeared to be the only connection between the forest mountains to the +eastward and the lofty mass then before us. We found upon this neck huge +trees of ironbark and stringybark; some fine forest-hills appeared to the +eastward and distant only a few miles. + +CROSS SEVERAL FINE STREAMS. + +At the end of sixteen, eighteen, nineteen, twenty-one, and twenty-three +miles we crossed small rivers, all flowing westward, and the third over +sandstone. After passing the last or fifth stream, we halted on a very +fine open, dry and grassy flat. We found a large fallen tree which we set +on fire and passed the night, a very mild one, most comfortably on the +ground beside it, with the intention of renewing our journey at daylight +in the morning. + +TRAP-HILLS AND GOOD SOIL. + +July 14. + +On leaving our bivouac we crossed some hills of trap-rock which were +lightly wooded and covered with the finest grass in great abundance. The +scenery around them, the excellent quality of the soil, the abundance of +water and verdure, contrasted strangely with the circumstance of their +lying waste and unoccupied. It was evident that the reign of solitude in +these beautiful vales was near a close; a reflection which, in my mind, +often sweetened the toils and inconveniences of travelling through such +houseless regions. At the foot of the last hill, and about a mile on our +way, we crossed a chain of deep ponds running to the south-west. Beyond +them was a plain of the very finest open forest-land, on which we +travelled seven miles; and then came upon a river with broad deep reaches +of very clear water, and flowing towards the north-west. We easily found +a ford and, on proceeding, entered upon a tract of white sand where +banksia and casuarinae were the chief trees. There was also some good +grass but it grew rather thinly upon it. The next water we crossed was a +small mountain-torrent hurrying along to the eastward in a deep and rocky +channel overhung with bushes. + +ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN. + +Being now close under the mountain, we dismounted and sent our horses +back for the sake of food to the bank of the last-mentioned river. The +first part of our ascent, on foot, was extremely steep and laborious, +although it was along the most favourable feature I could find. Above it +the impediments likely to obstruct our further ascent were two high and +perpendicular rocky cliffs; but I had observed before ascending those +crevices and intervals between rocks where we might most easily effect an +ascent; and through these we accordingly penetrated without much +difficulty. The upper precipice consisted of cliffs about 140 feet in +perpendicular height. Fortunately the ablest of the men with me was a +house carpenter and, being accustomed to climb roofs, he managed to get +up and then assist the rest. + +CLOUDS COVER IT. + +Having gained the top of this second precipice, we found winter and +desolation under drizzling clouds which afforded but partial and +transient glimpses of the world below. The surface at the summit of the +cliffs was broad and consisted of large blocks of sandstone, separated by +wide fissures full of dwarf bushes of banksia and casuarinae. These rocks +were inclined but slightly towards the north-west and, the bushes being +also wet and curiously encrusted with heavy icicles, it was by no means a +pleasant part of our journey to travel nearly half a mile upwards, either +on the slippery rock or between fissures among wet bushes. At length +however we reached the highest point and found that it consisted of naked +sandstone. The top block was encrusted with icicles, and had become hoary +under the beating of innumerable storms. At the very summit I found a +small heath-like bushy Leucopogon, from six inches to a foot high. It was +in flower although covered with ice.* Also a variety of Leucopogon +villosus, with rather less hair than usual, and another species of the +same genus, probably new. Near the highest parts of the plateau I found a +new species of eucalyptus with short broad viscid leaves, and +rough-warted branches.** + +(*Footnote. L. glacialis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis pubescentibus, +foliis lineari-lanceolatis erectis contortis acutis ciliatis margine +scabris, floribus terminalibus solitaririis et aggregatis, pedicellis +pubescentibus distanter squamatis, calcibus glabris.) + +(**Footnote. E. alpina, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis brevibus rigidis +angulatis, foliis alternis petiolatis ovato-oblongis viscosis basi +obliquis, umbellis axillaribus paucifloris petiolis brevioribus, operculo +hemisphaerico verrucoso inaequali tubo calycis turbinato verrucoso +breviore.) + +A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT. + +All around us was hidden in mist. It was now within half an hour of +sunset, but the ascent had cost so much trouble, and the country this +summit commanded was so interesting to us that I was unwilling to descend +without trying whether it might not be clear of clouds at sunrise. We had +not come prepared in any way to pass the night on such a wild and +desolate spot, for we had neither clothing nor food, nor was there any +shelter; but I was willing to suffer any privations for the attainment of +the object of our ascent. One man, Richardson, an old traveller, had most +wisely brought his day's provisions in his haversack, and these I divided +equally among FIVE. No rocks could be found near the summit to shelter us +from the piercing wind and sleet. + +NO FUEL. + +The thermometer stood at 29 degrees, and we strove to make a fire to +protect us from the piercing cold; but the green twigs, encrusted with +icicles, could not by our united efforts be blown into a flame sufficient +to warm us. There was abundance of good wood AT THE FOOT OF THE +CLIFFS--huge trees of ironbark, stringybark and bluegum but, had we +descended, a second ascent might have appeared too laborious on a mere +chance of finding the summit clear; so we remained above. The men managed +to manufacture some tea in a tin pot, and into the water as it boiled I +plunged a thermometer which rose to exactly 95 degrees of the centigrade +scale. We got through that night of misery as well as might have been +expected under the circumstances, and we succeeded in keeping the fire +alive although, while twigs were blown into red heat at one end, icicles +remained at the other, even within a few inches of the flame. In order to +maintain it through the night we divided, at eleven o'clock, the stock of +branches which had been gathered before dark into eight parcels, this +being the number of hours we were destined to sit shivering there; and as +each bundle was laid on the dying embers we had the pleasure at least of +knowing that it was an hour nearer daylight. I coiled myself round the +fire in all the usual attitudes of the blacks, but in vain; to get warm +was quite impossible, although I did once feel something like comfort +when one of the men gave me for a seat a flat stone on which the fire had +been blown for some hours. Partial cessations in the fall of sleet were +also cheering occasionally; but the appearance of stars two hours before +daylight promised to reward our enterprise and inspired me with hope. + +VIEW FROM IT AT SUNRISE. + +July 15. + +At six o'clock the sky became clear, the clouds had indeed left the +mountain and, as soon as it was day, I mounted the frozen rock. In the +dawn however all lower objects were blended in one grey shade, like the +dead colouring of a picture. I could distinguish only a pool of water, +apparently near the foot of the mountain. This water I afterwards found +to be a lake eight miles distant and in my map I have named it Lake +Lonsdale, in honour of the Commandant then or soon after appointed at +Port Phillip. I hastily levelled my theodolite but the scene, although +sublime enough for the theme of a poet, was not at all suited to the more +commonplace objects of a surveyor. The sun rose amid red and stormy +clouds, and vast masses of a white vapour concealed from view both sea +and land save where a few isolated hills were dimly visible. Towards the +interior the horizon was clear and, during a short interval, I took what +angles I could obtain. To the westward the view of the mountain ranges +was truly grand. Southward or towards the sea I could at intervals +perceive plains clear of timber and that the country was level, a +circumstance of great importance to us; for I was apprehensive that +between these mountains and the coast it might be broken by mountain +gullies as it is in the settled colony and all along the Eastern coast. +If such had proved to be the case the carts could not have been taken +there; and I must have altered the plan of my intended route. Before I +could observe the angles so desirable clouds again enveloped the +mountain, and I was compelled to quit its summit without completing the +work. The wind blew keenly, the thermometer stood as low as 27 degrees, +and in the morning the rocks were more thickly encrusted with ice. + +DESCEND WITH DIFFICULTY. + +The difficulty of our descent under such circumstances was therefore +increased but no impediment could have arrested us then, the lower +regions having so many attractive charms for such cold and hungry beings. + +MEN TAKEN ILL. + +That night on the summit materially injured the health of two of my best +men who had been with me on all three of my expeditions. Muirhead was +seized with ague and Woods with a pulmonary complaint; and although both +recovered in a few weeks they were never so strong afterwards. + +NEW PLANTS FOUND THERE. + +We found upon the mountain, besides those already mentioned, various +interesting plants which we had seen nowhere else. Amongst them: + +A most beautiful downy-leaved Epacris with large, curved, purple flowers, +allied to E. grandiflora but much handsomer.* + +(*Footnote. E. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; foliis ovatis acutis +planis crassis tomentosis, floribus cernuis, corolla arcuata +infundibulari laciniis obtusis apiculatis.) + +A most remarkable species of Phebalium* with holly-like leaves and bright +red flowers resembling those of a Boronia. It was related to P. +phylicifolium but quite distinct. + +(*Footnote. P. bilobum, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis tomentosis, foliis +glabris cordato-ovatis retusis bilobis dentatis margine revolutis, +pedicellis axillaribus pubescentibus folio brevioribus, ovario tricorni.) + +A new Cryptandra remarkable for its downy leaves.* + +(*Footnote. C. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; undique dense tomentosa, +ramulis racemosis, foliis fasciculatis linearibus obtusis marginibus +revolutis contiguis, capitulis terminalibus congestis, calycibus +campanulatis bracteis acutis scariosis parum longioribus. Next to C. +propinqua.) + +A beautiful species of Baeckea, with downy leaves and rose-coloured +flowers resembling those of the dwarf almond.* + +(*Footnote. B. alpina, Lindley manuscripts; tota pubescens, foliis +lineari-ovatis petiolatis obtusis concavis, pedicellis axillaribus et +terminalibus foliis longioribus supra medium bibracteatis: bracteis +oppositis obovatis cucullatis, laciniis calycinis cordatis obtusis +petalis denticulatis duplo brevioribus, antheris apice verruciferis.) + +A new Pultenaea allied to P. biloba, but more hairy and with the flowers +half concealed among the leaves.* + +(*Footnote. P. montana, Lindley manuscripts; foliis obcordatis muticis +lobis rotundatis supra scabris utrinque ramulisque hirsutis, capitulis +solitariis terminalibus sessilibus foliis parum longioribus, calycibus +villosis laciniis subulatis appressis.) + +A new species of Bossiaea which had the appearance of a rosemary bush, +and differed from all the published kinds in having linear pungent +leaves.* + +(*Footnote. B. rosmarinifolia, Lindley manuscripts; ramis teretibus +villosis, foliis linearibus pungentibus margine revolutis supra glabris +subtus pallidis pilosis, floribus solitariis axillaribus.) + +A beautiful new and very distinct species of Genetyllis, possessing +altogether the habit of a Cape Diosma, the heath-like branches being +terminated by clusters of bright pink and white flowers.* + +(*Footnote. G. alpestris, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis piloso-hispidis, +foliis linearibus tetragonis scabro-pilosis, capitulis sessilibus +terminalibus nudis rachi lanata, tubo ovarii pentagono pubescente, +sepalis petalis pluries brevioribus, stigmate glaberrimo.) + +Several species of Grevillea, particularly a remarkable kind with leaves +like those of a European holly, but downy.* + +(*Footnote. G. aquifolium, Lindley manuscripts propria; foliis oblongis +extra medium incisis: lobis triangularibus apice spinosis; adultis super +glabratis: subter mollibus pubescentibus, racemis pedunculatis, calycibus +villosis, ovario hirsutissimo, stylo glabro.) + +Another fine new species with leaves like those of a European oak.* + +(*Footnote. G. variabilis, Lindley manuscripts propria; incana, foliis +cuneatis angulatis oblogisve basi cuneatis pinnatifidis sinuatis +angulatisque subtus tomentosis lobis mucronatis triangularibus vel +rotundatis, racemis tomentosis pedunculatis.) + +And a third with brownish red flowers and hoary leaves; varying from an +erect straight-branched bush to a diffuse entangled shrub.* + +(*Footnote. G. alpina, Lindley manuscripts Ptychocarpa; foliis +lineari-oblongis tomentosis muticis margine revolutis supra subtus pilis +appressis sericeis, racemis paucifloris, pistillis basi hirsutissimis, +calycibus ferrugineis tomentosis. alpha, ramis erectis, foliis +longioribus angustioribus. beta, ramis diffusis intricatis, foliis +brevioribus nunc mollibus nunc supra scabris.) + +Lastly a new Leucopogon, besides that found on the summit as already +mentioned.* + +(*Footnote. L. rufus, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis foliis que subtus +pubescentibus, foliis ovatis acuminatis apice spinosis erectis concavis +supra laevigatis subtus striatis margine laevibus, floribus subsolitariis +sessilibus axillaribus, barba corollae cinnamomea.) + +ON THE APPLICATION OF NAMES. + +In adding this noble range of mountains to my map I felt some difficulty +in deciding on a name. To give appellations that may become current in +the mouths of future generations has often been a perplexing subject with +me, whether they have been required to distinguish new counties, towns, +or villages, or such great natural features of the earth as mountains and +rivers. I have always gladly adopted aboriginal names and, in the absence +of these, I have endeavoured to find some good reason for the application +of others, considering descriptive names the best, such being in general +the character of those used by the natives of this and other countries. +Names of individuals seem eligible enough when at all connected with the +history of the discovery or that of the nation by whom it was made. The +capes on the coast I was then approaching were chiefly distinguished with +the names of naval heroes and, as such capes were but subordinate points +of the primitive range, I ventured to connect this summit with the name +of the sovereign in whose reign the extensive, valuable, and interesting +region below was first explored; and I confess it was not without some +pride as a Briton that I more majorum* gave the name of the Grampians to +these extreme summits of the southern hemisphere. + +(*Footnote. +Procedo, et parvam Trojam, simulataque magnis +Pergama, et arentem Xanthi cognomine rivum, +Agnosco. Aen. lib 3.) + +REPOSE IN THE VALLEY. + +We reached the banks of the little river where the horses awaited us in +three hours, the distance being eight miles from the summit of Mount +William. There we found a large fire and, under a wide spreading +casuarina during a delightful interval of about twenty minutes, I enjoyed +the pleasures of eating, sleeping, resting, and warming myself, almost +all at the same time. To all who would know how to enjoy most intensely a +good fire, shelter, sunshine, and the dry soft turf I would recommend, by +way of whet, a winter night on a lofty mountain, without fire, amidst +frost-covered rocks and clouds of sleet. I shall long remember the +pleasure of those moments of repose which I enjoyed on my arrival in the +warm valley after such a night. We could afford no longer delay however, +having brought provisions only for one day with us, whereas this was the +morning of the third of our absence from the camp. Retracing our steps we +reached the little river only at eight in the evening and, as I hoped to +find a ford in it at daylight, we lay down on its bank for the night. + +NIGHT'S REST. + +July 16. + +I slept on a snug bit of turf within two feet of the stream; so that the +welcome murmur of its rippling waters assisted my dreams of undiscovered +rivers. As soon as morning dawned I succeeded in finding a ford on that +branch across which we swam our horses on the 13th. We thus met with less +cause of delay and reached the camp at an early hour, with excellent +appetites for breakfast. + +NATIVES AT THE CAMP DURING MY ABSENCE. + +Two natives had visited the party during my absence and had slept by the +fires. They had been at cattle stations and could say "milk." They +consequently approached our camp boldly, and during the night showed much +restlessness, endeavouring to decoy the gins away with them. But The +Widow gave the alarm, and very properly handed over these insidious +wooers to the especial surveillance of the man on duty. Notwithstanding +they were vigilantly watched they contrived to steal a tomahawk, and went +off leaving their wooden shovels at our camp, saying they should return. +I had now several men on the sicklist, but under the treatment of +Drysdale, our medical attendant, they speedily recovered. + + +CHAPTER 3.9. + +Plains of stiff clay. +The Wimmera. +Difficult passage of its five branches. +Ascend Mount Zero. +Circular lake, brackish water. +The Wimmera in a united channel. +Lose this river. +Ascend Mount Arapiles. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion northward. +Salt lakes. +Green Hill lake. +Mitre lake. +Relinquish the pursuit of the Wimmera. +The party travels to the south-west. +Red lake. +Small lakes of fresh water. +White lake. +Basketwork of the natives. +Muddy state of the surface. +Mr. Stapylton's ride southward. +Disastrous encounter of one man with a native. +A tribe makes its appearance. +More lakes of brackish water. +Escape at last from the mud. +Encamp on a running stream. +Fine country. +Discovery of a good river. +Granitic soil. +Passage of the Glenelg. +Country well watered. +Pigeon ponds. +Soft soil again impedes the party. +Halt to repair the carts and harness. +Natives very shy. +Chetwynd rivulet. +Slow progress over the soft surface. +Excursion into the country before us. +Beautiful region discovered. +The party extricated with difficulty from the mud. + +PLAINS OF STIFF CLAY. + +July 17. + +The ground on the sides of the low hills was still so soft (and in this +respect I had found the country we had lately crossed even worse than +that previously traversed by the carts) that the only prospect which +remained to us of being able to continue the journey was by proceeding +over the plains extending along the interior side of the Grampians of the +South. The soil of such plains consisted chiefly of clay, and we had +recently found that it bore the wheels of the waggons much better during +the winter season than the thin and loose soil on the sides of hills; +apparently because this lay on rock, or a substratum so tenacious as to +support the water in or just under the surface. The wheels and also the +feet of the cattle sunk at once to this rocky subsoil whatever its depth, +and up came the water, so that on level parts our track resembled a ditch +of mud and water, and on slopes it formed a current of water and a drain +from the sides of hills. I had observed the plains during my +reconnaissance of the interior from the side of Mount William, and I now +directed our course towards them. We crossed without difficulty the +little river by the passage Mr. Stapylton had prepared during my absence +and, after travelling about four miles first west and then north-west, we +came upon an extensive plain. The soil consisted of good strong clay on +which the cattle travelled very well, and it was covered with the best +kind of grass. On reaching it I resumed my former course which was nearly +west-south-west towards Mount Zero, a name I applied to a remarkable cone +at the western extremity of the chain of mountains. After travelling 2 +1/2 miles over the plain we again reached the banks of Richardson's +creek, and forded it after some delay and considerable difficulty on +account of the softness of the bottom. We next entered on a tract of +grassy forest land, the trees being chiefly box and casuarinae. At 2 1/2 +miles beyond Richardson's creek we crossed a small run of water flowing +west-north-west, apparently towards it. After passing over similar ground +for some miles further and having had another plain on our right, we at +length encamped near a large serpentine pond or lake which was broad, +deep, and bordered with lofty gum trees. + +July 18. + +We continued for five miles along good firm ground on which there was +open forest of box and gumtrees; and part of the bold outline of the +Grampians appeared to our left. + +THE WIMMERA. + +At nine miles we fell in with a flowing stream, the water being deep and +nearly as high as the banks. I did not doubt that this was the channel of +the waters from the north side of these mountains, and I was convinced +that it contained the water of all the streams we had crossed on our way +to Mount William, with the exception of Richardson's creek, already +crossed by the party where it was flowing to the north-west. The richness +of the soil and the verdure near the river, as well as the natural beauty +of the scenery could scarcely be surpassed in any country. The banks were +in some places open and grassy and shaded by lofty yarra trees, in others +mimosa bushes nodded over the eddying stream. + +Continuing along the right bank in a north-west direction we travelled +two miles on a grassy plain; and we then turned towards the river, +encamping on its banks in latitude 36 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds +South, longitude 142 degrees 39 minutes 25 seconds East. Magnetic +variation 5 degrees 21 minutes 45 seconds East. + +Some natives being heard on the opposite bank, Piper advanced towards +them as cautiously as possible; but he could not prevail on them to come +over, although he ascertained that the name of the river was the Wimmera. + +DIFFICULT PASSAGE OF ITS FIVE BRANCHES. + +July 19. + +On examining the Wimmera with Piper's assistance I found that it was +fordable in some places; but in order to effect a passage with greater +facility we took over several of the loads in one of the boats. Thus the +whole party had gained what I considered to be the left bank by ten A.M. +On proceeding I perceived some yarra trees before me which grew, as we +soon discovered, beside a smaller branch, the bottom of which was soft. +We had however the good fortune to pass the carts across this branch +also. At a quarter of a mile further we came upon another flowing stream, +apparently very deep and having steep but grassy banks. The passage of +this occupied the party nearly two hours, one of the carts having sunk up +to the axle in a soft bank or channel island. While the men were +releasing the cart I rode forward and found a FOURTH channel, deep, wide, +and full to the brim. In vain did Tally-ho (trumpeter, master of the +horse, etc. to the party) dash his horse into this stream in search of a +bottom; though at last one broad favourable place was found where the +whole party forded at a depth of not more than 2 1/2 feet. Beyond these +channels another similar one still obstructed our progress; but this we +also successfully forded, and at length we found rising ground before us, +consisting of an open plain which extended to the base of the mountains. +On its skirt we pitched our tents at a distance of not quite one mile and +a half from our last camp; a short journey certainly, but the passage of +the five branches of the Wimmera was nevertheless a good day's work. I +had frequently observed in the Australian rivers a uniformity of +character throughout the whole course of each, and the peculiarities of +this important stream were equally remarkable, it being obviously the +same we had crossed in three similar channels when on our way to Mount +William, twenty miles above this point. The shrubs on the banks at the +two places were also similar. + +ASCEND MOUNT ZERO. + +July 20. + +While Mr. Stapylton conducted the party across the plains in a +west-south-west direction I proceeded towards Mount Zero, the most +western extremity of the mountain range and distant from our camp 8 1/2 +miles. I found this hill consisted also of highly micaceous sandstone; +the whole being inclined towards the north-west. Having planted my +theodolite on the summit I intersected various higher points to the +eastward, and also a very remote, isolated hill on the low country far to +the northward which I had also seen from Mount William, and from several +stations on our route. Several specimens of shrubs and flowers that had +not been previously seen by us were gathered on the sides of this rocky +hill. Among them was a very singular hairy Acacia covered with a +profusion of the most brilliant yellow flowers. In some respects it +resembled A. lanigera, but it proved upon examination to be undescribed.* + +(Footnote. A. strigosa, Lindley manuscripts; glanduloso-hirsuta, +phyllodiis linearibus v. lineari-oblongis obovatisque uninerviis +eglandulosis apice rotundatis mucronatis obliquis, stipulis subulatis +villosis, capitulis solitariis sessilibus.) + +An isolated mass appeared to the westward, having near its base a most +remarkable rock resembling a mitre. Beyond this the distant horizon was +not quite so level as the plains of the interior usually are and, as far +as I could see northward with a good telescope, I perceived open forest +land and various fine sheets of water. I observed with great satisfaction +that the Grampians terminated to the westward on a comparatively low +country. This was an important object of attention to me then as it +comprised all that intervened between us and the southern coast; in which +direction I perceived only one or two groups of conical hills. I resolved +however, before turning southwards, to extend our journey to the isolated +mass already mentioned, which I afterwards named Mount Arapiles. After +descending from Mount Zero I proceeded towards the track of the carts and +found that the plains, unlike any hitherto seen, undulated so much that +in one place I could perceive only the tops of trees in the hollows. On +these plains I found small nodules of highly ferruginous sandstone, +apparently similar to that which occurs near Jervis Bay and in other +places along the eastern coast. + +CIRCULAR LAKE, BRACKISH WATER. + +Reaching at length a low green ridge of black soil very different from +that of the plains, I found it formed the eastern bank of another of +those remarkable circular lakes of which I had seen so many near the +Murray. The bed of this hollow consisted of rich black earth and was +thirty-two feet below the level of the adjacent plain. It seemed nearly +circular, the diameter being about three-quarters of a mile. One +peculiarity in this lake was a double bank on the eastern side consisting +first of a concentric break or slope from the plain, the soil not being +clay as usual, but a dry red sand; and then arose the green bank of black +earth, leaving a concentric fosse or hollow between. A belt of yarra +trees grew around the edge of this singular hollow which was so dry and +firm that the carts, in the track of which I was riding, had traversed it +without difficulty. I learnt from Mr. Stapylton, on reaching the camp, +that the party had previously passed near two other lakes, the largest +containing salt water; and in the neighbourhood of these he had also +remarked a great change of soil; so that what with the verdure upon it, +the undulating surface, and clumps of casuarinae on light soil, or lofty +yarra trees growing in black soil, that part of the country looked +tolerably well. + +THE MACKENZIE AND THE NORTON. + +July 21. + +At a quarter of a mile from the camp we crossed a running stream which +also contained deep and apparently permanent pools. Several pine or +callitris trees grew near its banks being the first we had seen for some +time. I named this mountain stream the Mackenzie. Beyond it were grassy +undulating plains with clumps of casuarinae and box trees (eucalypti). At +three miles and a half we crossed another chain of ponds, and at four +miles we came to a deep stream, running with considerable rapidity over a +bed of sandstone rock. It was overhung with mimosa-bushes; and it was not +until after considerable search that I could find a convenient place for +fording it. This I named the Norton. Good grassy hills arose beyond, and +after crossing them we found an undulating country and sandy soil where +there were shallow lagoons and but little grass. + +THE WIMMERA IN A UNITED CHANNEL. + +At nine miles I was aware, from the sloping of the ground, of the +vicinity of a river; and we soon came once more upon the Wimmera, flowing +in one deep channel nearly as broad as the Murrumbidgee, but in no other +respect at all similar. The banks of this newly discovered river were not +water-worn but characterised by verdant slopes, the borders being fringed +with bushes of mimosae. The country was indeed fine adjacent to the +Wimmera, and at the point where we came to it the river was joined by a +running creek from the south which we crossed, and at two miles and a +quarter further we encamped on a spot overlooking a reedy lagoon, from +which some long slopes descended towards the river, distant from our camp +about half a mile. When we thus again intersected the Wimmera I was +travelling due west, partly with a view to ascertain its ultimate course. + +LOSE THIS RIVER. + +The isolated hill lay before me, and it was now to be ascertained whether +the course of the stream was to the south or north of it. The appearance +of the country from Mount Zero certainly afforded no prospect of our +falling in with the river where we did, but at this camp Burnett, having +climbed to the top of a high tree, thought he could trace the course to +the southward of the hill before us, which bore nearly west. This +prospect accorded with my wishes, and I hoped to trace it to the coast +without deviating too far to the westward of my intended route. + +July 22. + +A small stream from the south crossed our way when we had proceeded about +half a mile. At six miles and a half we met with another; and three miles +beyond it I perceived a change in the appearance of the country. We had +been for some time travelling through forest land which now opened into +grassy and level plains, variegated with belts and clumps of lofty trees +giving to the whole the appearance of a park. We had now the hilly mass +of Mount Arapiles on our right, or north of us, but to my surprise there +was no river flowing between us and those heights as I had reason to +suppose from what had been seen from the tree by Burnett. Turning towards +the north-west therefore and at last northward, we finally encamped on a +spot to the westward of the hill after a journey of sixteen miles. Much +of the ground near this hill was so soft that one of the carts could not +be brought in before midnight, although assisted by several teams sent +back from the camp. We were now encamped on a dark-coloured soil from +which arose the same peculiar smell that I had remarked at Cudjallagong +(Regent's Lake of Oxley). What had become of the Wimmera I could scarcely +imagine but, anxious to ascertain its course, I hastened before sunset to +a western extremity of the hill; but instead of the river, of which I +could see no trace, I beheld the sun setting over numerous lakes: the +nearest, two miles and a half to the northward, being apparently six +miles in circumference. It seemed to be nearly circular and a group of +low grassy hills formed a concentric curve around the eastern margin, and +from the total absence of any reeds, trees, or smoke of natives, it was +too obvious that the water was salt. From the spot where I then stood I +counted twelve such lakes, most of them appearing to have a +crescent-shaped mound or bank on the eastern side. This certainly was a +remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of +the moon as seen through a telescope. The eastern and principal summit of +the hill was at some distance; and I returned to the camp in hopes of +being able to discover from that point in the morning some indication of +the further course of the Wimmera. + +ASCEND MOUNT ARAPILES. + +July 23. + +Having ascended the highest summit I counted from that height +twenty-seven circular lakes, two of the largest being about seven miles +to the north-east, the direction in which I expected to see the river. +Beyond these however I observed an extensive woody valley whence much +smoke arose, marking, to all appearance, the course of the Wimmera which +must have taken a turn in that direction, not far below the junction of +the last creek crossed by the party. Beyond that supposed bed of the +Wimmera the country appeared to be undulated, open, and grassy; and it +was probably covered with lakes similar to those on this side, for I had +observed from Mount Zero patches of water in that direction. From this +summit I had a good view of the Grampians of the South and, discovering +that a lofty range extended from them southward, I named it the Victoria +range having also recognised and intersected Mount William, distant 53 +1/2 miles. I could see no high land to the westward, and the hill on +which I stood seemed to divide the singular lacustrine country from that +where the character of the surface was fluviatile. Mount Arapiles is a +feature which may always be easily recognised both by its isolated +position and by its small companion the Mitre Rock, situated midway +between it and the lake to the northward, which I named Mitre Lake after +the little hill, its neighbour. Like the mountains in the east Mount +Arapiles consists of sandstone passing into quartz, the whole apparently +an altered sandstone, the structure being in one part almost destroyed, +in others perfectly distinct and containing pebbles of quartz. At the +western extremity this rock occurs in columns, resembling, at a distance, +those of basalt. (See Plate 31.) On the steep slopes grew pines, +casuarinae, and a variety of shrubs among which we found a new species of +Baeckea, forming a handsome evergreen bush, the ends of whose graceful +branches were closely covered with small white delicate flowers.* This +mass occupies about two square miles, its highest summit being elevated +above Mitre Lake 726 feet. I ascended this hill on the anniversary of the +battle of Salamanca and hence the name. + +(Footnote. B. calycina, Lindley manuscripts; glaberrima, foliis planis +sparse punctatis oblongo-cuneatis acutis, floribus pedicellatis +terminali-axillaribus, laciniis calycinis petaloideis petalis +longioribus. Near B. virgata.) + +MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION NORTHWARD. + +July 24. + +While Mr. Stapylton rode northward in search of the Wimmera I proceeded +to examine and survey some of these remarkable lakes. + +SALT LAKES. + +On the margin of one of them, bearing 55 1/2 degrees West of North from +our camp, a green hill of rather singular shape rose to a considerable +height above the surrounding country. I found the water in the lake +beside it shallow and quite salt. The basin was nearly circular though +partially filled with firm level earth which was water-worn at the brink, +its surface being about three feet higher than the water. This was +surrounded by a narrow beach of soft white mud or clay in which we found +no change on digging to the depth of several feet. + +GREEN HILL LAKE. + +The green hill was the highest of several semicircular ridges whose forms +may perhaps be better understood by the accompanying plan.* There was a +remarkable analogy in the form and position of all these hills; the form +being usually that of a curve, concentric with the lake, and the position +invariably on the eastern or north-eastern shores, a peculiarity I had +previously observed not only in the lakes near the banks of the Murray +but also in others on the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan where the ridge +consisted of red sand. The country on the western shore of these lakes +is, on the contrary, low and wooded like the surrounding country. In such +hills concretions of indurated marl frequently occur, but the earth they +consist of is sometimes light-coloured, in other cases very dark, like +the soil from trap-rock, and the ridges beside the lakes on the +Murrumbidgee, consisted of red sand. + +(*Footnote. Having modelled this feature I have the satisfaction of +presenting to the reader the first specimen of a plan of ground worked +from a model by the anaglyptograph, an important invention recently +perfected in this country by Mr. Bates and likely to be of very +considerable value in the representation of the earth's surface under the +skilful management of Mr. Freebairn.) + +MITRE LAKE. + +The water of Mitre Lake was also salt,* but there were numbers of ducks +and black swans upon it. The western shore was low, and the soil where it +had been thrown up in the roots of fallen trees was nearly as white as +chalk. A gray rather fine quartzose sand occurred in some places; and +along the water's edge a very minute shell had been cast up in +considerable quantities by the waves.** The hills to the eastward of this +lake were arranged in a crescent around the basin, but this being +composed of a number of hills almost separate from each other had a less +regular or uncommon appearance, although they were apparently the remains +of a curve equally as symmetrical as the others. The basin of this lake +was very extensive but partly filled on the side next the low hills by a +level tract of dry land covered with a brown bush (Salicornia arbuscula +of Brown); and the concentric curves in which it grew, as if closing on +the lake, seemed to record its progressive diminution. The breadth of +this heathy-looking flat between the water and the crescent of low hills +was nearly half a mile. A small rill of fresh water oozed into the lake +from the sides of Mount Arapiles. The bed of this watercourse was soft +and boggy near the lake, so that I could cross only by going up its +channel much nearer to the hill and at a point where some rocks protruded +and prevented our horses from sinking. + +(*Footnote. For Professor Faraday's analysis of these waters see below.) + +(**Footnote. This was a truncatella, a saltwater shell of which there are +several species on the English and French coasts. The one found here has +been named by Mr. J. De Carl Sowerby T. filosa.) + +Mr. Stapylton, in his search for the Wimmera, rode about six miles to the +northward without reaching the river, although he saw the valley through +which he thought it flowed; and where the river seemed likely to resume a +course to the southward of west. Upon the whole I think that the estuary +of the Wimmera will most probably be found either between Cape Bernouilli +and Cape Jaffa, or at some of the sandy inlets laid down by Captain +Flinders to the northward of the first of these capes. The country which +Mr. Stapylton crossed assumed the barren character of the lower parts of +the Murray. He actually passed through a low scrub of the Eucalyptus +dumosa; but I have no doubt that the country on the immediate banks of +the Wimmera continues good, whatever its course may be, even to the +sea-coast. + +RELINQUISH THE PURSUIT OF THE WIMMERA. + +At all events I here abandoned the pursuit of that river and determined +to turn towards the south-west that we might ascertain what streams fell +in that direction from the Grampians; and also the nature of the country +between these mountains and the shores of the Southern Ocean. + +THE PARTY TRAVELS TO THE SOUTH-WEST. + +July 25. + +Proceeding accordingly about south-west, we crossed at less than a mile +from our camp the dry bed of a circular lake. The ground on the eastern +shore was full of wombat holes which had been made in a stratum of +compact tuff about a foot in thickness. The tuff was irregularly +cavernous and it was loose, calcareous, or friable in the lower part +where the wombats had made their burrows. On the opposite margin of this +dry lake the surface was covered with concretions of indurated marl; and +the burrows of the wombat were even more numerous there than in the other +bank; the stratum of compact tuff occurring also and being three feet in +thickness. + +RED LAKE. + +At 2 1/4 miles we came upon the shores of Red lake which I so named from +the colour of a weed growing upon its margin. The lake was nearly a mile +in length and half a mile broad; the water was so slightly brackish that +reeds grew upon the borders which were frequented by many swans and +ducks. A very symmetrical bank overlooked the eastern shore, the ground +on the westward being low and wooded with the ordinary trees of the +country. We next crossed a flat of dry white sand on which banksia grew +thickly; and then we reached some low white sandhills on which were +stunted ironbark trees (eucalypti). In the higher part of those hills we +crossed a small dry hollow or lake which had also its bank on the eastern +side. + +SMALL LAKES OF FRESH WATER. + +At the end of 5 1/2 miles we passed two small lakes of fresh water about +half a mile to the right and, soon after, another about the same distance +to the left. On completing seven miles we crossed a low ridge of white +sand on which grew stunted trees of stringybark and black-butted gumtrees +(both belonging to the genus eucalyptus). Beyond this we crossed a +country in which wet, reedy swamps of fresh water, white sandhills, and +fine flats of good forest land occurred alternately. Towards the end of +our day's journey, the barren sandhills seemed to prevail, but at length +we descended from them rather suddenly to a smooth firm plain, clothed +with the finest grass and on the edge of this we pitched our tents for +the night. + +July 26. + +We proceeded through a thick fog and found the plain studded with clumps +of casuarinae. About a mile from the camp we came upon an extensive swamp +or lake, full of grass and rushes. Turning this by the left we crossed +some more good country, and then reached the banks of an extensive +lagoon, also full of green rushes and water. The western bank was high +and consisted of rich grassy land, very open; a small stream of water +fell into the lake on the north-west side, and another on the south-east. +It was surrounded by lofty gum trees and had a wood on the south and +east. We met with sandhills and stunted timber beyond. They enclosed a +long grassy flat covered with water, stretching away to the south-east. +We next entered on a fine flat of forest land bounded by a low ridge with +Callitris pyramidalis, or pine trees. + +WHITE LAKE. + +From this I perceived a circular lake a little to our right and on riding +to it I found the water salt and of a very white colour. No trees grew on +the margin and the surrounding scene was so dreary that it resembled a +mountain-tarn. Two solitary ducks were upon it, apparently of a species +new to us, but this I could not ascertain, having had only my rifle with +me and, the cap missing fire, I lost even that chance of killing them. +The bed of the lake also consisted of a very white marl. A high +semicircular bank swept round the eastern shore; that opposite, or +towards the west being low and swampy. On that side I saw two natives at +a distance making the best of their way to the southward. We had this day +noticed some of their huts which were of a very different construction +from those of the aborigines in general, being large, circular, and made +of straight rods meeting at an upright pole in the centre; the outside +had been first covered with bark and grass and then entirely coated over +with clay. The fire appeared to have been made nearly in the centre; and +a hole at the top had been left as a chimney. The place seemed to have +been in use for years as a casual habitation. + +BASKETWORK OF THE NATIVES. + +In this hut the natives had left various articles such as jagged spears, +some of them set with flints; and an article of their manufacture which +we had not before seen, namely, bags of the gins, very neatly wrought, +apparently made of a tough small rush. Two of these also resembled +reticules and contained balls of resin, flints for the spearheads etc. +The iron bolt of a boat was likewise found in one of these huts. The +natives invariably fled at our approach, a circumstance to be regretted +perhaps on account of the nomenclature of my map; but otherwise their +flight was preferable to the noisy familiarity of the natives of the +Darling, perplexing us between their brands of defiance and treacherous +invitations to dance. Indeed the two regions were as different in +character as the manners of their respective inhabitants. Instead of +salsolaceous deserts and mesenbryanthemum we now found a variety of +everything most interesting in a newly discovered country. Every day we +passed over land which for natural fertility and beauty could scarcely be +surpassed; over streams of unfailing abundance and plains covered with +the richest pasturage. Stately trees and majestic mountains adorned the +ever-varying scenery of this region, the most southern of all Australia +and the best. Beyond the White lake, which may be the distinguishing name +of the last mentioned, we passed over several tracts of open forest land +separated by dry sandhills, and at length encamped on a rich flat. + +MUDDY STATE OF THE SURFACE. + +The cattle were very much fatigued from the heaviness of the draught +owing to the extreme softness of the surface, especially on the more open +forest lands; and one bullock-driver remained behind with a cart until we +could send back a team by moonlight to his assistance. + +NATIVES AND THE BULLOCK-DRIVER. + +July 27. + +The cart which had fallen behind came in about three o'clock in the +morning. The natives had soon been heard about the solitary driver, and +four of them came up to him and demanded tomahawks; but being an old +bushranger, he, on their approach, laid out all his cartridges one by one +before him on a tarpaulin with his pistol and carabine, ready for action; +but fortunately his visitors did not proceed to extremities. The morning +was very foggy and, as this weather did not admit of my choosing a good +line of route, and as the surface of the country was so soft that it was +imperatively necessary to look well before us, I halted. I could thus at +least bring up my maps and journals and rest the jaded cattle after so +much long-continued toil in travelling through the mud. + +MR. STAPYLTON'S RIDE SOUTHWARD. + +I directed Mr. Stapylton to ride in the direction of 30 degrees West of +South (my intended route) and ascertain whether we were approaching any +river. The country we were in, being still lacustrine, I hoped to find +the surface more favourable for travelling upon where it was drained by +rivers; for on that amongst the salt lakes, although the land was very +good in point of fertility, there was evidently a deficiency of slope and +consequently much more water retained in the soil. Still the ground +presented undulations, being rarely quite level like the plains except +indeed in the beds of swamps. Recent experience had taught us to avoid +the very level parts and to seek any kind of rising ground. The hills we +occasionally fell in with consisted of white sand, and at first looked +like connected ridges where we might find streams; but we ascertained +that they always parted without enclosing any channels and left us in the +mud. The sand itself still consisted of the same rock (decomposed) which +appeared to be so generally spread over the country then between us and +the eastern shores of New Holland. Mr. Stapylton did not return this +evening, a circumstance which very much alarmed me as he had taken only +one man with him and was to have come back before sunset. + +July 28. + +Supposing that Mr. Stapylton had gone past our camp in returning, the +afternoon having been very rainy, I this morning sent out two parties, +the one to proceed east, the other west, in search of his track which, if +found by either, was to be followed until he was overtaken. Mr. Stapylton +returned however before midday, having ridden twenty miles in the +direction pointed out without having seen any river. He had passed a +number of circular lakes similar to those already described; the seventh +and most remote having appeared the largest. Just then as he turned his +horse he perceived that the land beyond became higher, indicating a +change of country. The party which had gone eastward heard our signal +shot on Mr. Stapylton's arrival and returned, having also seen four +similar lakes; but the party sent westward did not reach the camp until +some hours after the other. + +DISASTROUS ENCOUNTER OF ONE MAN WITH A NATIVE. + +They had unfortunately come upon some huts of the natives, where one of +them remained and who, refusing to listen to Piper's explanations, was +about to hurl his spear at Pickering, when this man, at Piper's desire, +immediately fired his carabine and wounded the native in the arm. I +regretted this unlucky collision exceedingly and blamed Pickering for +having been so precipitate; but his defence was that Piper told him +unless he fired he would be instantly speared. + +July 29. + +We endeavoured to proceed today in a direction more to the eastward than +the route of Mr. Stapylton, in the hope of finding firmer ground than he +had seen, by following that which was highest and sandy. But even in this +way we could not accomplish five miles and a half, although the last of +the carts did not arrive at the spot where we were at length compelled to +re-encamp until long after it became dark. The wheels sank up to the +axles, and the cattle from wallowing in the mud had become so weak as to +be scarcely able to go forward when unyoked, much less to draw the laden +carts. I had with difficulty found a spot of firm ground where we could +encamp, but during that evening I had reconnoitred a more +favourable-looking line which I meant to try in the morning. + +A TRIBE MAKES ITS APPEARANCE. + +Soon after we commenced this day's journey, while I was watching in some +anxiety the passage of a soft hollow by the carts, a man was sent back by +the chaining party to inform me that a number of natives had come before +them pointing their spears. On going forward I found they had retired, +having probably with their usual quickness of perception observed the +messenger sent back and guessed his errand. + +JUST REMONSTRANCE OF A TRIBE. + +But their conduct as I then explained it to the men was quite reasonable +on this occasion. One (I was told) had spoke very loud and fast, pointing +west towards where the man had been fired at the day before and then, +touching his shoulder in allusion to the wound, he finally poised his +spear at Blanchard as if in just resentment. + +PLANT OF A NEW GENUS. + +While awaiting the slow progress of the carts through the mud I found a +most curious new genus allied to Correa, with the habit of C. speciosa, +and with long tubular four-petaled green flowers. It had been previously +observed by Mr. Cunningham, who called it Sida correoides; it was however +not a Sida, nor even a Malvaceous plant, but a new form of Australasian +Rutaceae, differing from Correa in having the petals each rolled round a +pair of stamens in its quadripartite conical calyx, and in there being +constantly two seeds in each cell of the fruit.* + +(*Footnote. Didimeria aemula, Lindley manuscripts; undique pilis +stellatis lutescentibus furfuracea. Rami stricti. Folia subrotunda +cordata obtusa opposita brevi petiolata, pellucido-punctata. Pedunculi +axillares, filiformes, uniflori, supra medium bracteolis 2 subulatis +acuti. Calyx conicus, membranaceus, 4-partitus: laciniis acuminatis. +Petala 4, longissima, distincta, linearia, convoluta circa staminum +paria, extus tomentosa intus glabra. Stamina 8, hypogyna; filamentis +liberis, lineari-lanceolatis, membranaceis, alternis brevioribus; +antheris sagittatis inappendiculatis. Stylus filiformis glaber. Discus 0. +Capsula 4-cocca, villosissima, coccis dispermis, endocarpio solubili; +seminibus uno supra alterum positis.) + +MORE LAKES OF BRACKISH WATER. + +July 30. + +By pursuing a course towards the base of the friendly mountains I hoped +that we should at length intercept some stream, channel, or valley where +we might find a drier soil and so escape, if possible, from the region of +lakes. We could but follow such a course however only as far as the +ground permitted and, after travelling over the hardest that we could +this day find for a mile and a half, I discovered a spacious lake on the +left, bounded on the east by some fine-looking green hills. These +separated it from a plain where I found the ground firm, and also from +several smaller lakes to the right of my intended route. I accordingly +proceeded along the ground between them, and I found that it bore the +wheels much better than any we had recently crossed. The lakes were +however still precisely similar in character to those of which we had +already seen so many. The water in them was rather too brackish to be fit +for use, and the ridges were all still on the eastern shores. From the +highest of these ridges the pinnacled summits of the Victoria range +presented an outline of the grandest character. The noble coronet of +rocks was indeed a cheering object to us after having been so long half +immersed in mud. We had passed between the lakes and were proceeding as +lightly as we could across the plain when down went the wheel of a cart, +sinking to the axle, and the usual noise of flogging (cruelty which I had +repeatedly forbidden) and a consequent delay of several hours followed. + +ESCAPE AT LAST FROM THE MUD. + +In the meantime I rode to some grassy hills on the right, and found +behind them on the south-west another extensive lake on which I saw a +great number of ducks. Its bed consisted of dark-coloured mud and the +water was also salt. The green hills before mentioned were curiously +broken and scooped out into small cavities much resembling those on +Green-hill Lake near Mount Arapiles. The plain rose gradually towards the +east to some scrubby ground nearly as high as these hills and, in a fall +beyond this scrub, I found at length to my great delight a small hollow +sloping to the south-east and a little water running in it. + +ENCAMP ON A RUNNING STREAM. + +Following it down I almost immediately perceived a ravine before me, and +at a mile and a quarter from the first fall of the ground I crossed a +chain of fine ponds in a valley, where we finally encamped on a fine +stream flowing to the south-west over granite rocks.* + +(*Footnote. Consisting of white felspar and quartz and silvery mica.) + +FINE COUNTRY. + +Thus suddenly were we at length relieved from all the difficulties of +travelling in mud. We had solid granite beneath us; and instead of a +level horizon the finely rounded points of ground presented by the sides +of a valley thinly wooded and thickly covered with grass. This transition +from all that we sought to avoid to all we could desire in the character +of the country was so agreeable that I can record that evening as one of +the happiest of my life. Here too the doctor reported that no men +remained on the sick-list, and thus we were in all respects prepared for +going forward and making up for so much time lost. + +DISCOVERY OF A GOOD RIVER. THE GLENELG. + +July 31. + +We now moved merrily over hill and dale, but were soon however brought to +a full stop by a fine river flowing, at the point where we met it, nearly +south-west. The banks of this stream were thickly overhung with bushes of +the mimosa, which were festooned in a very picturesque manner with the +wild vine. The river was everywhere deep and full and, as no ford could +be found, we prepared to cross it with the boats. But such a passage +required at least a day and, when I saw the boats afloat, I was tempted +to consider whether I might not explore the further course of this river +in them and give the cattle some rest. It was likely, I imagined, soon to +join another where we might meet with less obstruction. During the day +everything was got across save the empty carts and the boat-carriage, our +camp being thus established on the left bank. One bullock was +unfortunately drowned in attempting to swim across, having got entangled +in the branches of a sunken tree which, notwithstanding a careful search +previously made in the bottom of the stream, had not been discovered. + +The river was here, on an average, 120 feet wide and 12 feet deep. + +GRANITIC SOIL. + +Granite* protruded in some places, but in general the bold features of +the valley through which this stream flowed were beautifully smooth and +swelling; they were not much wooded but on the contrary almost clear of +timber and accessible everywhere. The features were bold and round but +only so inclined that it was just possible to ride in any direction +without obstruction; a quality of which those who have been shut up among +the rocky gullies of New South Wales must know well the value. I named +this river the Glenelg after the Right Honourable the Secretary of State +for the Colonies, according to the usual custom. + +(*Footnote. This granite varied consequently in the size of its component +parts which sometimes, especially in quartz and felspar, exceeded a foot +square, and in this I found distinctly imbedded friable masses, +apparently of sandstone, but which proved to consist of a very +fine-grained grey granite, approaching in character to mica-slate.) + +PASSAGE OF THE GLENELG. + +August 1. + +The first part of this day was taken up in dragging the carts and +boat-carriage through the river. At one P.M. I embarked in the boats, +taking in them a fortnight's provisions and leaving Mr. Stapylton in a +strong position with nine men, the stores, and the cattle. We proceeded +for two miles without encountering much obstruction, but we found on +going further that the river ran in several channels, all of these being +overgrown with bushes, so that it was not without great difficulty that +we could penetrate about a mile farther by the time it had become nearly +quite dark. It was no easy matter to push through the opposing branches +even to reach the bank. Many similar branches had been cut during this +day's navigation, Woods, Palmer and most of the other men having been +more in the water than in the boats during the last mile. Every article +having been at length got to land, we encamped on the side of a steep +hill for the night, and I made up my mind to resume our land journey next +day unless I saw the river more favourable ahead. By the banks of the +Glenelg we found a stiff furze-like bush with small purple flowers, spiny +branches, and short stiff spiny leaves. It proved to be a new Daviesia +allied to D. colletioides.* Bossiaea cordifolia, a hairy shrub with +beautiful purple and yellow flowers, was common. + +(*Footnote. D. brevifolia, Lindley manuscripts; glabra, ramis rigidis +strictis apice spinescentibus, foliis conicis spinosis subrecurvis, +racemis foliis duplo longioribus, bracteolis obovatis cucullatis.) + +COUNTRY WELL WATERED. + +August 2. + +There was a noble reach a quarter of a mile below the point to which we +had brought the boats, and it was terminated by a rocky fall which we had +heard during the night. Beyond that point the river turned southward and, +this being the direction of our intended journey, I perceived that we +could more conveniently in less time pursue its course by land. The +country on its banks was, as far as I could see, the finest imaginable, +either for sheep and cattle or for cultivation. A little rill then +murmured through each ravine: + +Whose scattered streams from granite basins burst, +Leap into life, and sparkling woo your thirst. + +But it was in returning along a winding ridge towards the camp that I was +most struck with the beauty and substantial value of the country on the +banks of this river. It seemed that the land was everywhere alike good, +alike beautiful; all parts were verdant, whether on the finely varied +hills or in the equally romantic vales which seemed to open in endless +succession on both banks of the river. No time was lost this morning in +raising the boats out of the water and, having proceeded myself to the +camp at an early hour, and led the carts round, and the carriage to take +up the boats, the whole party was once more in movement by eleven +o'clock. As far as I had yet traced the course of the river it appeared +to flow towards the west-south-west, and it was thus doubtful, at that +stage of our progress, whether the estuary might not be to the westward +of Cape Northumberland; whereas my chief inducement in looking for a +river on this side of the Grampians was the promising situation afforded +by the great bay to the eastward of that cape for some harbour or +estuary, and this being more likely, considering the position of the +mountains. I had little doubt that under such circumstances some river +would be found to enter the sea there and, having left the Wimmera +flowing westward, and crossed as I imagined the highest ground that could +extend from the mountain range to Cape Bernouilli, I expected to meet at +length with rivers falling southward. The ultimate course of the Glenelg +could only be ascertained by following it down, and to do this by land +was not easy; first because it was joined by many small tributaries +flowing through deep valleys and from all points of the compass; and +secondly, because the general horizon was so level that no point +commanding any extensive view over the country could be found. Thus while +our main object was to pursue the river, we were obliged to grope our way +round the heads of ravines often very remote from it, but which were very +perplexing from their similarity to the ravine in which the main stream +flowed. A more bountiful distribution of the waters for the supply of a +numerous population could not be imagined, nor a soil better adapted for +cultivation. We this day crossed various small rivulets or chains of +ponds, each watering a grassy vale, sheltered by fine swelling hills. The +whole country consisted of open forest land on which grew a few gumtrees +(or eucalypti) with banksia and occasionally a few casuarinae. + +FISHES PECULIAR TO DIFFERENT PONDS. + +August 3. + +The ponds where we had encamped were large and deep, and I endeavoured to +ascertain whether the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) inhabited these waters. +Neither this fine fish nor either of the two others found in the streams +flowing towards the interior from the eastern coast range have ever been +seen in the rivers which reach the eastern shores; and I had now +ascertained that all the waters in which we had procured the fish in +question belonged to the extensive basin of the Murray. We were at length +on channels evidently distinct, both from those leading to the eastern +coast and those belonging to the basin of the Murray. The beds of the +rivers flowing to the east coast are chiefly rocky, containing much sand +but very little mud, consequently no reeds grow on their banks, nor is +the freshwater mussel found in them, as in rivers on the interior side, +which in general flow over a muddy bed and are not unfrequently +distinguished by reedy banks. Judging therefore from the nature of the +soil of this southern region, the fishes peculiar to the Murray might be +looked for in the rivers of the south, rather than those fishes known in +the rivers falling eastward. It was important to ascertain at least what +point of the coast separated the rivers containing different kinds of +fish. In these ponds we caught only some very small fry, and the question +could not be satisfactorily determined, although the natives declared +that none of them were the spawn of cod-perch. + +It was no easy matter now to ascertain in what direction the waters of +the valley ran, but by the tendency of the hollows on each side they +appeared to decline in general to the left or northward. In proceeding on +our route, the heads of other similar ravines rendered our course very +intricate: to have been shut in between any such ravine and the river +must have been rather embarrassing, and seemed then almost inevitable. We +had the good fortune however to avoid this; and at length, keeping along +dry ground, a beautiful scene appeared on the left in an open valley +about two miles in width where the hills sloped gradually to the +confluence of two streams, brimful of water, which shone through some +highly ornamental wood. Both streams came from valleys of a similar +character; and beyond them I saw hills of the finest forms, all clothed +with grass to their summits and many entirely clear of timber. + +PIGEON PONDS. + +A bronze-winged pigeon flew up just as I discovered the stream and, as +this bird had not been before seen by us on that side of the mountains, I +named the waters Pigeon ponds. we descended to that part of the valley +which lay in our proposed course and found that some of these ponds +rather deserved to be styled lakes. The soil was everywhere black and +rich. + +SOFT SOIL AGAIN IMPEDES THE PARTY. + +August 4. + +Proceeding over ground of a similar character we crossed several fine +streams, some flowing in shallow channels over rocks, others in deep +ravines. The ground on the higher parts was however still so soft as to +yield to the wheels, and very much impeded the progress of the party, +especially at one place where an extensive lake, full of reeds or rushes, +appeared to the right. The drays sunk to the axles, the whole of the soil +in our way having become so liquid that it rolled in waves around the +struggling bullocks. The passage of some of the streams could not be +accomplished until we had filled up the bed with large logs, covered them +with boughs, and strewed over the whole, the earth cut away from the +steep banks. Under such circumstances I considered six miles a good day's +journey, and indeed too much for the cattle. I halted for the night with +a small advanced party only on a fine little stream running over a rocky +bed; while the main body was compelled to remain with the carts several +miles behind, having broken, in the efforts made to extricate the carts +and boat-carriage, many of the chains, and also a shaft. The small river +I had reached ran in a bed of little width, but was withal so deep that +it seemed scarcely passable without a bridge. At the junction however of +a similar one, some rocks, favourably situated, enabled us to effect a +passage by bedding logs between them and covering the whole with branches +and earth, leaving room for the water to pass between. + +HALT TO REPAIR THE CARTS AND HARNESS. + +August 5. + +A halt was this day unavoidable, but the necessity was the less to be +regretted as the weather was very unfavourable. Indeed we had scarcely +seen one fine day for some weeks. Mr. Stapylton set out to trace the +rivulet downwards, and returned in the evening after having reached its +junction with the Glenelg at the distance of nine miles in a north-west +direction. The course of the river thus determined to that junction +appeared to be more to the westward than I had previously expected, and I +began again to think its estuary might still be to the westward of Cape +Northumberland, and this prospect induced me to alter our course. The +carts having come up about one P.M., the blacksmith was set to work and +wrought throughout the night to repair all the claw-chains. + +NATIVES VERY SHY. + +While other men were employed at the log-bridge some natives were heard +coming along the most southern of the two streams; whereupon Piper went +towards them as usual and found they were females with children; but from +the moment they discovered us until they were fairly out of hearing their +shrieks were so loud and incessant that it seemed, for once, our presence +in that country had been unknown to the surrounding natives, a proof +perhaps of the smallness of their numbers. In the evening other natives +(men) were heard approaching along the creek, and we at first supposed +they had come to that place as their rendezvous to meet the gins and +their families whom we had unwillingly scared; but Mr. Stapylton, during +his ride home along one side of the ravine, had observed four natives +very intent on following the outward track of his horses' hoofs on the +other; and these were doubtless the same men guided by his tracks to our +camp. They could not be brought to a parley however, although Piper and +Burnett at first invited them towards the camp and, when they set off, +pursued them across the opposite ridge. + +CHETWYND RIVULET. + +On the bank of this little stream I found a charming species of +Tetratheca, with large rich purple flowers and slender stems growing in +close tufts about a foot high. It was perhaps the most beautiful plant we +met with during the expedition.* + +(*Footnote. T. ciliata, Lindley manuscripts; caulibus erectis tomentosis +filiformibus, foliis oppositis verticillatisque obovatis ovatisque +ciliatis subtus glabris, pedicellis setosis, sepalis ovatis concavis +acutis, petalis obovatis.) + +August 6. + +The passage of the rivulet which I named the Chetwynd, after Stapylton +who had explored it at considerable risk, was effected with ease by the +temporary bridge and we proceeded, soon crossing by similar means two +other running streams, probably tributaries to this. + +SLOW PROGRESS OVER THE SOFT SURFACE. + +When we had travelled four miles we came to a swamp where a considerable +current of water was flowing into it through some ponds; the margin of +this running water being broad, flat, and grassy, and having also lofty +gumtrees (white bark and eucalypti) growing on it. Unfortunately it was +so soft and rotten, as the men described it, that all the wheels sunk to +the axles and, although in such cases it was usual to apply the combined +force of several teams to draw each vehicle through in turn, we found +that the rising ground opposite was equally soft and yielding, so that +the cattle could have no firm footing to enable them to pull. It was +night before we could, with the strength of all the teams united by long +chains and yoked to each vehicle successively, bring the whole through, +the broad wheels of each cart actually ploughing to the depth of the axle +in soft earth; the labour of the cattle may therefore be imagined. We +encamped on a small barren plain much resembling a heath and just beyond +the swamp which had proved so formidable an impediment. + +August 7. + +Our progress this day was still less than that made during the preceding +one for it did not much exceed a mile. To that distance we had proceeded +tolerably well, having crossed two small running brooks, and all appeared +favourable before us. But a broad piece of rising ground which, being +sandy with banksia and casuarinae trees on it, I had considered firm +proved so very soft that even my own horse went down with me and wallowed +in the mud. + +EXCURSION INTO THE COUNTRY BEFORE US. + +There was no way of avoiding this spot, at least without delay, and I +ordered the men immediately to encamp, being determined to go forward +with a party on horseback and ascertain the position of some point where +the ground was more favourable, and then to adopt such a mode of +extricating the carts and proceeding thither as circumstances permitted. +I took with me provisions for three days that I might explore the +country, if necessary, to the coast. + +BEAUTIFUL REGION DISCOVERED. + +I had not proceeded above five miles southward when I perceived before me +a ridge in bluey distance, rather an unusual object in that close +country. We soon after emerged from the wood and found that we were on a +kind of tableland and, approaching a deep ravine coming from our right +and terminating on a very fine-looking open country below, watered by a +winding river. We descended by a bold feature to the bottom of the ravine +and found there a foaming little river hurrying downwards over rocks. +After fording this stream with ascended a very steep but grassy +mountain-side, and on reaching a brow of high land, what a noble prospect +appeared! a river winding amongst meadows that were fully a mile broad +and green as an emerald. Above them rose swelling hills of fantastic +shapes, but all smooth and thickly covered with rich verdure. Behind +these were higher hills, all having grass on their sides and trees on +their summits, and extending east and west throughout the landscape as +far as I could see. I hastened to ascertain the course of the river by +riding about two miles along an entirely open grassy ridge, and then +found again the Glenelg, flowing eastward towards an apparently much +lower country. All our difficulties seemed thus already at an end, for we +had here good firm ground, clear of timber, on which we could gallop once +more. The river was making for the most promising bay on the coast (for I +saw that it turned southward some miles below the hill on which I stood) +through a country far surpassing in beauty and richness any part hitherto +discovered. I hastened back to my men in the mud and arrived before +sunset with the good news, having found most of the intervening country +fit for travelling upon. Thus the muddy hill which had before seemed +unsurmountable led to the immediate discovery of the true course of the +river, and prevented me from continuing my route into the great angle of +its course over unfavourable ground instead of thus reaching it so much +sooner by a much less deviation from the course I wished to pursue. I now +hoped to extricate the carts in the morning and henceforward to +accomplish journeys of considerable length. + +THE PARTY EXTRICATED WITH DIFFICULTY FROM THE MUD. + +August 8. + +It was in vain that I reconnoitred the environs of the hill of mud for +some portion of surface harder than the rest; and we could only extricate +ourselves by floundering through it. Patches of clay occurred but they +led only to places where the surface under the pressure of the cattle was +immediately converted into white and liquid mud. It was necessary to take +the loads from the carts and carry them by hand half a mile, and then to +remove the empty vehicles by the same means. After all this had been +accomplished the boat-carriage (a four-wheeled waggon) still remained +immovably fixed up to the axle-tree in mud in a situation where the block +and tackle used in hoisting out the boats could not be applied. Much time +was lost in our attempts to draw it through by joining all the chains we +possessed and applying the united strength of all the bullocks; but even +this was at length accomplished after the sun had set; the wheels, four +inches broad, actually cutting through to the full depth of the spokes. +On the eastern side of the hill the ground descended into a ravine where +it was grassy and firm enough; and it was a great relief to us all to +feel thus at liberty, even by sunset, to start next morning towards the +beautiful country which we now knew lay before us. + + +CHAPTER 3.10. + +Cross various rivulets. +Enter the valley of Nangeela. +Native female and child. +Encamp on the Glenelg. +Cross the Wannon. +Rifle range. +Mount Gambier first seen from it. +Sterile moors crossed by the party. +Natives numerous but not accessible. +Again arrive on the Glenelg. +Indifferent country on its banks. +Breadth and velocity of the river. +Encamp on a tributary. +Difficult passage. +The expedition brought to a stand in soft ground. +Excursion beyond. +Reach a fine point on the river. +The carts extricated. +The whole equipment reaches the river. +The boats launched on the Glenelg. +Mr. Stapylton left with a depot at Fort O'Hare. +Character of the river. +Ornithorynchus paradoxus. +Black swans. +Water brackish. +Isle of Bags. +Arrival at the seacoast. +Discovery bay. +Mouth of the Glenelg. +Waterholes dug in the beach. +Remarkable hollow. +Limestone cavern. +One fish caught in the Glenelg. +Stormy weather. +Return to the depot. +Difference in longitude. + +CROSS VARIOUS RIVULETS. + +August 9. + +Once more in a state of forward movement we crossed green hills and +running brooks until, when we had travelled nearly six miles from Muddy +Camp and had crossed six fine streams or burns, we met with a more +formidable impediment in the seventh. The sides of this ravine were so +uncommonly steep that our new difficulty was how to move the vehicles +down to the bank of the stream. In one place where a narrow point of +ground projected across, a passage seemed just possible; and after we had +made it better with spades we attempted to take a light cart over. The +acclivity was still however rather too much, and over went the cart, +carrying the shaft bullock with it, and depositing all my instruments +etc. under it in the bed of the stream. With travellers on roads this +might have been thought a serious accident, but in our case we were +prepared for joltings, and nothing was in the least degree injured; +neither was the animal hurt, and we ascertained by the experiment, +dangerous though it was, that still more was necessary to be done for the +passage of the heavy carts and boats which were still some way behind; +and I encamped on the bank beyond that the men might set about this work. +No time was lost in filling up the hollow with all the dead trees that +lay about and what others we could cut for the purpose; and thus before +sunset the three carts and one waggon were got across. The rocks in the +bed of this stream consisted of grey gneiss, and on the hills beyond it I +found nodules of highly ferruginous sandstone. + +ENTER THE VALLEY OF NANGEELA. + +August 10. + +By means of a block and tackle attached to a large tree the remaining +carts and the boat-carriage were safely lowered to the bed of the stream. +To draw them up the opposite bank was practicable only by uniting the +strength of several teams, yet this too was effected successfully and the +whole party were enabled to go forward in the morning. At a mile and a +half from the camp a scene was displayed to our view which gladdened +every heart. An open grassy country extending as far as we could +see--hills round and smooth as a carpet, meadows broad, and either green +as an emerald or of a rich golden colour from the abundance, as we soon +afterwards found, of a little ranunculus-like flower. Down into that +delightful vale our vehicles trundled over a gentle slope, the earth +being covered with a thick matted turf, apparently superior to anything +of the kind previously seen. That extensive valley was enlivened by a +winding stream, the waters of which glittered through trees fringing each +bank. + +NATIVE FEMALE AND CHILD. + +As we went on our way rejoicing I perceived at length two figures at a +distance who at first either did not see or did not mind us. They proved +to be a gin with a little boy and as soon as the female saw us she began +to run. I presently overtook her, and with the few words I knew prevailed +on her to stop until the two gins of our party could come up; for I had +long been at a loss for the names of localities. This woman was not so +much alarmed as might have been expected; and I was glad to find that she +and the gins perfectly understood each other. The difference in the +costume on the banks of the Wando immediately attracted the notice of the +females from the Lachlan. The bag usually carried by gins was neatly wove +in basketwork and composed of a wiry kind of rush. She of Wando carried +this bag fastened to her back, having under it two circular mats of the +same material, and beneath all a kangaroo cloak, so that her back at +least was sufficiently clothed, although she wore no dress in front. The +boy was supported between the mats and cloak; and his pleased and +youthful face, he being a very fine specimen of the native race, +presented a striking contrast to the miserable looks of his whining +mother. In the large bag she carried some pieces of firewood and a few +roots, apparently of tao, which she had just been digging from the earth. +Such was the only visible inhabitant of this splendid valley resembling a +nobleman's park on a gigantic scale. She stated that the main river was +called Temiangandgeen, a name unfortunately too long to be introduced +into maps. We also obtained the gratifying intelligence that the whole +country to the eastward was similar to these delightful vales and that, +in the same direction, as Piper translated her statement, "there was no +more sticking in mud." A favourable change in the weather accompanied our +fortunate transition from the land of watery soil and dark woody ravines +to an open country. The day was beautiful; and the balmy air was +sweetened by a perfume resembling hay which arose from the thick and +matted herbs and grass. Proceeding along the valley the stream on our +left vanished at an isolated rocky hill; but, on closer examination, I +found the apparent barrier cleft in two, and that the water passed +through, roaring over rocks. This was rather a singular feature in an +open valley where the ground on each side of it was almost as low as the +rocky bed of the stream itself. The hill was composed of granular felspar +in a state of decomposition; the surrounding country consisting chiefly +of very fine-grained sandstone. It is not easy to suppose that the river +could ever have watered the valley in its present state and forced its +way since through that isolated hill of hard rock; as to believe that the +rock, now isolated, originally contained a chasm, and afforded once the +lowest channel for the water before the valley now so open had been +scooped out on each side by gradual decomposition. Another rivulet +approached this hill, flowing under its eastern side and joining the +Wando just below. According to my plan of following down the main river +it was necessary to cross both these tributaries. + +ENCAMP ON THE GLENELG. + +In the open part of the valley the channels of these streams were deep +and the banks soft; but at the base of the hill of Kinganyu (for such was +its name) we found rock enough and, having effected a passage there of +both streams that afternoon, we encamped after travelling about three +miles further on the banks of the Glenelg once more. Our route lay +straight across an open grassy valley at the foot of swelling hills of +the same description. Each of these valleys presented peculiar and very +romantic features, but I could not decide which looked most beautiful. +All contained excellent soil and grass, surpassing in quality any I had +seen in the present colony of New South Wales. The chase of the emu and +kangaroo, which were both numerous, afforded us excellent sport on these +fine downs. When about to cross the Wando I took my leave of the native +woman before mentioned, that she might not have the trouble of fording +the river, and I presented her with a tomahawk of which our females +explained to her the use, although she seemed still at a loss to conceive +the meaning of a present. The use of the little hatchet would be well +enough known however to her tribe so, leaving her to return to it and +assuring her at the same time of our friendly disposition towards the +natives, we proceeded. + +The left bank of the principal stream was very bold where we reached it +on this occasion, but still open and covered with rich turf. The right +bank was woody and this was generally its character at the other points +where we had seen the Glenelg. It was flowing with considerable rapidity +amongst the same kind of bushes we had met with above, but they did not +appear so likely here to obstruct the passage of boats. + +On the plains we found a singular acacia, the leaves being covered with a +clammy exudation resembling honey-dew. It differed from A. graveolens in +its much more rigid habit, shorter and broader leaves, and much shorter +peduncles.* + +(*Footnote. A. exudans, Lindley manuscripts; ramis crassis rigidis +angulatis leviter pubescentibus, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis +mucronatis oblique binerviis viscido-punctatis basi obsolete glandulosis, +capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis lanatis, bracteolis rigidis acutis +pubescentibus alabastris longioribus (capitulis echinatis).) + +August 11. + +Passing along the bank of the river under the steep grassy hills which +consisted of very fine-grained, calcareous sandstone, we began two miles +on to ascend these heights; as well to avoid a place where they closed +precipitously on the Glenelg as to gain a point from which I hoped to +command an extensive view of its further course, and so cut off some of +the windings. From that point, or rather on riding through the woods to +some distance beyond it, I perceived that the river was joined by another +coming from the south-east through an open country of the finest +character. Below their junction the principal river disappeared on +passing through a woody range, and turned towards the south-west. + +JUNCTION OF THE WANNON. + +Nothing could be seen beyond the crest which seemed a very predominant +feature bounding the fine valley of the Wannon on the south. By turning +round the eastern brow of the high ground on which we then were we gained +a long ridge of smooth grassy land, leading by an easy descent from this +height to the junction of the rivers. This high ground was thickly wooded +with stringybark trees of large dimensions, and a few other eucalypti, +together with banksia and casuarinae. The soil there was soft and sandy +and the substratum contained masses of ironstone. The shrubs upon the +whole reminded me of those in the wooded parts of the sandhills on the +shores of Port Jackson. Smoke arose from various parts of the distant +country before us; and we perceived one native running at prodigious +speed across the plain below. + +CROSS THE WANNON. + +On reaching the banks of the Wannon we found it a deep flowing stream, +about half as large as the river itself. We succeeded in finding a ford +and crossed after cutting away some bushes and levelling the banks. +Beyond the Wannon we travelled 2 3/4 miles over a portion of very fine +country and encamped in a little vale in the bosom of a woody range, the +western side of which overhung the river at the distance of two miles. + +August 12. + +A fine clear morning gave full effect to the beauty of the country which +I now saw to the eastward from a hill near our camp. The summit of the +Victoria range crowned the distant landscape; and the whole of the +intervening territory appeared to consist of green hills, partially +wooded. We crossed a mountain-stream by filling up its bed with logs and, +as we ascended the slopes beyond, we found the country grassy until we +reached the high and wooded crest. Lofty stringybark trees and other +timber grew there on a white sandy soil; but we found among the bushes +abundance of the anthisteria or kangaroo grass. + +After travelling some miles beyond this crest we at length found the +ground sloping to the southward; and some swampy hollows with reeds in +them obliged us to turn to the right or south-west, as the water in these +depressed parts falling eastward, or to the left, showed that we were not +so very near the river, on the right, which I was endeavouring to follow. +We were delayed in several of these hollows by the sinking of the carts +and boat-carriage. + +RIFLE RANGE. + +We next traversed an extensive moor or heath on which the rising ground +was firm, and a little way beyond it some rising ground bounded our view. +On ascending this highest feature which I named the Rifle range I found +it commanded an extensive view over a low and woody country. + +MOUNT GAMBIER FIRST SEEN FROM IT. + +One peaked hill alone appeared on the otherwise level horizon and this +bore 68 degrees West of South. I supposed this to be Mount Gambier near +Cape Northumberland which, according to my survey, ought to have appeared +in that direction at a distance of forty-five miles. + +STERILE MOORS CROSSED BY THE PARTY. + +I expected to find the river on reaching the lower country beyond this +range; but instead of the Glenelg and the rich country on its banks we +entered on extensive moors of the most sterile description. They were +however firm enough for travelling upon, the surface being very level and +the soil a whitish sand. These open wastes were interrupted in some parts +by clumps of stringybark forest which entirely concealed from view the +extent of this kind of country. Swamps full of water and containing reeds +of a dark yellow colour at length became numerous; and although I +succeeded in pursuing a course clear of these obstacles, we were obliged +to encamp at twilight without having any immediate prospect of a better +country before us. There was however abundance of grass in these wet +swamps and our carts passed over one quite covered with water without +sinking. Our camp was marked out on a low hill of white sand on which +grew mahogany and stringybark trees of large dimensions. The ridge from +which we had descended now appeared continuous as far as we could see +eastward. + +NATIVES NUMEROUS BUT NOT ACCESSIBLE. + +Much smoke arose from this lower country when we entered upon it and +after sunset the incessant calls of a native were heard near our camp as +if he had lost some comrade. I sent up a rocket that he might be +convinced we had not arrived by stealth as the tribes do when they +insidiously make war on each other, but he only reiterated his calls the +more. + +August 13. + +At daybreak the cries of the native were renewed. I then made Piper cooey +to him whereupon he became silent and I heard him no more, the natives of +that country being, as Piper expressed it "still very wild." This morning +we were on the march as soon as the sun rose, all being very anxious to +see the river again and a better country. At two miles we passed along a +sandy ridge between two extensive swamps; but at a mile and a half +farther I found at length a small hollow and water running in it, a +feature which convinced me at once that the river could not be very +distant. In the bank there was a thin stratum of shelly limestone bearing +a resemblance to some of the oolitic limestones of England; and in the +bed were irregular concretions of ironstone containing grains of quartz, +some of the concretions having externally a glazed appearance arising +from a thin coating of compact brown haematite. + +AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE GLENELG. + +Casuarinae and banksia growing on grassy slopes were the next marks of a +different country from that of the swamps, and at less than a mile from +this point we came upon the river. + +INDIFFERENT COUNTRY ON ITS BANKS. + +Its banks had a different character from that which they presented above +but they were still fine. + +BREADTH AND VELOCITY OF THE RIVER. + +The river now flowed in a narrow valley, the bed being about 70 feet +below the common level of the swampy flats. At sharp bends the banks +consisted of cliffs of a soft limestone, composed in part of comminuted +fragments of corallines, the interstices being rarely filled up; the rock +contained also a few specimens of Foraminifera, most probably of recent +species. In the narrow valley all was flourishing and green, attesting +the rich luxuriance of the alluvial soil. The mimosa trees predominated, +but still the bushes of leptospermum darkened the stream which was deep, +rapid, and muddy, its breadth being about 40 yards and the bed consisting +of a friable or soft calcareous sandstone. In accompanying it in its +course downward we met with less difficulty than I had expected, but I +perceived that the barren swampy land, or more frequently the stringybark +forests, approached the higher banks on both sides the river. The few +ravines falling in our way were only the drains from swamps close at hand +and they were easily crossed by the party at the fall of the ground, +where we found rocky strata. + +ENCAMP ON A TRIBUTARY. + +After tracing the river more than four miles we encamped on an elevated +point overlooking a flat of good grass, so necessary for the cattle. + +August 14. + +Some of the bullocks were missing and we were compelled to wait an hour +or two while parties went in search of them; one party being guided by +Piper, the other by the two Tommies. I availed myself of the leisure +afforded by this delay to measure the breadth, depth, and velocity of the +river which were respectively as follows: + +Average breadth: 35 yards. +Mean depth: 17 feet. +Velocity of the current: 1,863 yards per hour; the general course, as far +as we had traced this portion being nearly South-East. + +When most of the cattle had been brought in we proceeded and, in +endeavouring to keep along the highest ground between the swamps, I +unavoidably left the river at some distance on our right, a circumstance +I considered of less consequence as the ground appeared to be falling on +my left towards some tributary; and at four miles we came upon a small +river flowing rapidly in a valley nearly as deep and wide as the main +stream. The country on its immediate bank looked better than that last +found on the main stream. Limestone rock appeared in the bank opposite +and at the foot of some cliffs we found fossil oyster-shells. Mr. +Stapylton traced this stream to its junction with the river about two +miles lower down. + +August 15. + +Two bullocks were still missing and I had recourse to compulsory measures +with Piper and the man who lost them in order to find them again: I +declared that unless they were found Piper should have no provisions for +a week; and I condemned the man who lost them to be kept every second +night on watch during the remainder of the journey. + +DIFFICULT PASSAGE OF THE STOKES. + +The passage of the little river (which named the Stokes in memory of a +brother officer who fell at Badajoz) was not to be easily accomplished, +owing to the depth and softness of the alluvial soil through which it +flowed. One place passable on horseback was found after long search by +Mr. Stapylton and myself. Out of the bed of the stream at that part we +drew some dead trees and after two hours of great exertion the passage of +the boat-carriage and carts was effected, the latter sinking deeper in +the water than they ever had done in any river which we had previously +forded. + +THE EXPEDITION BROUGHT TO A STAND IN SOFT GROUND. + +We found the country beyond very intricate, being so intersected with +swamps draining off in all directions, and so divided by stringybark +forests, that it was next to impossible to avoid the soft swampy ground +or reach the riverbank again. We headed one deep ravine falling towards +it, and had indeed travelled in the desired direction about four miles +further on dry ground, but only by winding about as the swamps permitted +when at length the ground appeared to slope towards the river, being also +covered with the fine grass and the kind of trees which usually grew near +it. But this ground notwithstanding its firm appearance proved to be as +soft as that of Mount Mud; and it spread at length around us on all sides +except that from which we had approached it by so circuitous a route. + +EXCURSION BEYOND. + +We had no alternative but to cross this bad ground and, after finding out +by careful examination the narrowest part, we prepared to puts to the +nearest firm ground beyond, an undertaking infinitely more difficult and +laborious to us than the passage of the broadest river. One of the carts +was with much labour taken across and, being anxious to know the actual +situation of the river, I rode southward into the wood taking with me the +chain or measuring men, and leaving the rest of the people at work in the +mud. I found much of the ground equally soft as I proceeded, but all +consisted of excellent open forest land covered with good grass. I found +there a woolly Correa, profusely covered with pink bell-shaped blossoms +and small round rufous leaves;* and the beautiful Kennedya prostrata was +climbing among the bushes and rendering them brilliant with its rich +crimson flowers. + +(*Footnote. C. rotundifolia, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis rufis +villosissimis, foliis subrotundis brevi-petiolatis supra scabris subtus +villosis saepius emarginatis, corollis campanulatis brevibus +subtetrapetalis, calyce truncato rufo villosissimo.) + +REACH A FINE POINT ON THE RIVER. + +At length I approached a ravine on the left which I at first took for +that of the river; but I soon perceived through the trees on my right a +still greater opening, and there I at last found the valley of the +Glenelg. In the ravine to the left ran another small stream rather larger +than that crossed yesterday. We reached the bank of this at 2 3/4 miles +from the place where we left the party and at about half a mile above its +junction with the main stream. The high ground between the two streams +terminated in a round grassy promontory overlooking one of the finest +flats imaginable. I determined to endeavour once more to explore the +river's course with the boats; provided we should succeed in transporting +them over the mud to this spot; and I returned with this intention to the +muddy scene where I had left the men. It was quite dark before I found it +again and then they had succeeded in getting through only the three light +carts. I did not despair of accomplishing the passage, at least in the +course of time; but I was indeed impatient for daylight that I might +carefully examine with that view all parts of the country between our +camp and the place where I intended to launch the boats into the Glenelg +again. + +THE CARTS EXTRICATED BY PROCEEDING WITH GREAT CAUTION. + +August 16. + +This morning it rained heavily and there was a balmy and refreshing +mildness in the air, probably owing to the vicinity of the sea. It +occurred to me that, as the ground appeared to slope towards the +south-east, we might reach some hollow on that side leading to the little +river we discovered yesterday; and that such a hollow would afford the +best chance of escape from the soft flats which now impeded us, since the +drainage they afforded to the immediate banks was likely to leave them at +least firm enough to be travelled upon. On this principle alone I +understood why the ground on the banks of the stream seen yesterday was +so firm; and I therefore hoped that the head of any ravine found near our +camp would lead by a dry though perhaps circuitous route first to the +tributary, and next by its bank to the point already mentioned where it +joined the Glenelg. I accordingly instructed Mr. Stapylton to examine the +ground in the direction proposed while I superintended the exertions of +the party to drag the boat-carriage through the mud. We finally succeeded +in this last effort and, just as I stood watching with joy the ascent of +the carriage to the firm ground beyond, Mr. Stapylton came to me with the +intelligence that he had found the head of a ravine and firm ground on +its bank in the direction where he had been. One bad place alone +intervened between our present position and the firm ground at the head +of the ravine but this Mr. Stapylton said was very bad indeed. By 10 A.M. +everything was got across the first swamp, the loads of all the carts +having been carried by the men. To the new difficulty mentioned by Mr. +Stapylton I therefore led them next, and we soon accomplished the passage +of the light carts; after which I proceeded, leaving to Mr. Stapylton the +management of the rest, having first brought the boat-carriage within +reach of the firm ground opposite by means of blocks and tackle attached +to trees and drawn by five bullocks. On going forward with the carts I +was guided altogether by the course of the ravine or gully, keeping along +the fall of the ground and so avoiding the softer soil above. Thus we +proceeded successfully for, although another ravine came in our way, I +managed to travel round its head near which I found a place where we +crossed the small watercourse it contained by filling up the chasm with +logs. On passing this we entered the stringybark forest which I had +traversed on the day previous; and I at length recognised through the +trees the hill from which I had seen the junction of the streams. A +tremendous hailstorm met us in the face just as we descended to encamp in +the valley near the bank of the river, but this troubled us but little +while we were up to the waist in the thickest crop of grass growing on +the richest black soil I had ever seen. Mr. Stapylton and Burnett came up +in the evening with the intelligence that the whole party had effected a +safe passage across the swampy ground; but that the wheels of the +boat-carriage and some of the carts had sunk deep in the earth where I +had previously crossed on horseback followed by the light carts without +leaving any impression, and that consequently they had made but little +progress beyond the camp. + +August 17. + +I sent Burnett back with some spare bullocks to assist the people in +bringing on the carts and the boat-carriage, a man having been despatched +from them early to inform me that the carriage had again stuck fast. +Piper drew my attention to the sound of a distant waterfall which he said +he had heard all night and wished now to go down the river to look at. I +directed him to do so and to examine the river also still further if he +could, that he might bring back information as to how the boats might get +down the stream. On his return in the afternoon he stated that the river +was joined just below by several large streams from the left, and by one +still larger from the right which, falling on rocks, made the noise he +had heard during the night; also that on climbing a high tree he had seen +the river very large "like the Murray," adding that it was excellent for +boats. All this news only made me the more impatient to embark in them +while they were still afar on the muddy hills. + +THE WHOLE EQUIPMENT REACHES THE RIVER. + +The whole day passed without any tidings of their approach, and another +night had closed over us before I heard the distant calls of the +bullock-drivers; but I had the satisfaction soon after of seeing the +whole party and equipment again united on the banks of this promising +stream. The barometer was rising, the spring advancing, and the +approaching warmth might be expected to harden the ground. The cattle +would be refreshed by a week's rest in the midst of the rich pasture +around us, while our labours to all appearance were on the eve of being +crowned by the discovery of some harbour which might serve as a port to +one of the finest regions upon earth. At all events if we could no longer +travel on land, we had at length arrived with two boats within reach of +the sea, and this alone was a pleasing reflection after the delays we had +lately experienced. + +THE BOATS LAUNCHED ON THE GLENELG. + +August 18. + +An uncommonly fine morning succeeded a clear frosty night. The boats were +hoisted out to be launched once on the bosom of the newly discovered +Glenelg; and they were loaded with what the party going with them might +require for ten days. I left with Mr. Stapylton instructions that the men +under his charge should move up to and occupy the round point of the +hill, a position which I named Fort O'Hare in memory of a truly brave +soldier, my commanding officer who fell at Badajoz in leading the forlorn +hope of the Light Division to the storm. + +MR. STAPYLTON LEFT WITH A DEPOT AT FORT O'HARE. + +At twelve o'clock I embarked on the river with sixteen men in two boats, +leaving eight with Mr. Stapylton in the depot. + +CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. + +We met with many dead trees for the first mile or two, but none of these +either prevented or delayed our passage; and the river then widened into +fine reaches wholly clear of timber, so that the passage further down was +quite uninterrupted. The scenery on the banks was pleasing and various: +at some points picturesque limestone cliffs overhung the river, and +cascades flowed out of caverns hung with stalactites; at others the +shores were festooned with green dripping shrubs and creepers, or +terminated in a smooth grassy bank sloping to the water's edge. But none +of the banks consisted of water-worn earth; they were in general low and +grassy, bounding the alluvial flats that lay between the higher points of +land. Within the first three or four miles from Fort O'Hare two +tributaries joined the main stream from the right or westward, and one +from the left or eastward: one of the former ending in a noisy cascade at +the junction. The river soon opened to a uniform width of sixty yards, +its waters being everywhere smooth and unruffled and the current scarcely +perceptible. + +Ornithorynchus paradoxus. + +Ducks were always to be seen in the reaches before us, and very +frequently the Ornithorynchus paradoxus, an animal which had not, I +believe, been hitherto seen so near the sea. After rowing about sixteen +miles we landed on the left bank near a cascade falling from under a +limestone cliff and there we encamped for the night. The sun was setting +in a cloudless sky while I eagerly ascended the highest cliffs in hopes +of obtaining a sight of the coast, but nothing was visible beyond a +gently undulating woody country, some swamps alone appearing in it to the +westward. The land about the cliffs of limestone was tolerably good and +grassy, but towards the end of this day's pull forests of the stringybark +sort of eucalyptus, having in them trees of large dimensions, closed on +the river. We endeavoured but in vain to catch fish, and whether the +waters contained the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) or not remained a +question. Our position and our prospects were now extremely interesting +and throughout the night I was impatient for the light of the next day. + +COURSE OF THE RIVER. + +August 19. + +I arose at three in order to determine the latitude more exactly by the +altitude of various stars then approaching the meridian. These were Aries +and Menkar; while the two feet of the Centaur, both fine circumpolar +stars, were so steadily reflected in the placid stream that I obtained by +that means the altitude of both BELOW THE POLE. It was most essential to +the accuracy of my survey of the river that I should determine the +latitude as frequently and exactly as possible. The sun afterwards rose +in a cloudless sky and I ascertained the breadth of the river by means of +a micrometer telescope to be exactly 70 yards. We continued our +interesting voyage and found the river of very uniform width and that its +depth increased. + +The current was slower but still perceptible although we found the water +had ebbed six inches during the night an indication that it was already +influenced by the tide although it tasted perfectly fresh. At a place +where I observed the sun's meridian altitude I found the breadth on +measurement to be 71 yards and the depth on sounding, 4 1/2, 3 1/2 and 3 +fathoms. The direction of the course had there however changed. To the +camp of last night it had been remarkably straight towards +south-south-east although full of turnings being what may be termed +straight serpentine,* and I had accordingly expected to find the estuary +at Portland Bay in which case it was likely to be sheltered sufficiently +by Cape Nelson to form a harbour. Now however the general course was +nearly west and it preserved the same general direction without much +winding during the progress we made throughout the day. I had therefore +every reason to suppose that it would thus terminate in the wide bay +between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater. The scenery on the long +reaches was in many places very fine from the picturesque character of +the limestone-rock and the tints and outline of the trees, shrubs, and +creepers upon the banks. In some places stalactitic grottoes covered with +red and yellow creepers overhung or enclosed cascades; at other points +casuarinae and banksia were festooned with creeping vines whose hues of +warm green or brown were relieved by the grey cliffs of more remote +reaches as they successively opened before us. + +(*Footnote. See Colonel Jackson's paper also referred to above.) + +BLACK SWANS. + +Black swans being numerous, we shot several; and found some eggs which we +thought a luxury among the bulrushes at the water's edge. But we had +left, as it seemed, all the good grassy land behind us; for the +stringybark and a species of Xanthorrhoea (grass-tree) grew to the +water's edge both where the soil looked black and rich and where it +possessed that red colour which distinguishes the best soil in the +vicinity of limestone rock. One or two small tributaries joined the river +the principal one coming from the left bank at that point or angle where +the great change takes place in its course. When the sun was near setting +we put ashore on this bank and from a tree on the highest part of the +country behind it we now once again saw Mount Gambier bearing 57 degrees +West of North. + +WATER BRACKISH. + +Here the water was slightly brackish but still very good for use; the +saltness being most perceptible when the water was used for tea. The +river had increased considerably both in width and depth; for here the +measured breadth was 101 yards and the mean depth five fathoms. (See +section on general Map.) It was upon the whole considering the permanent +fulness of its stream the character of its banks and uniformity of width +and depth the finest body of fresh water I had seen in Australia; and our +hopes were that day sanguine that we should find an outlet to the sea of +proportionate magnitude. + +August 20. + +This morning I found there was a rise of six inches in the river, +evidently the effect of tide as the water was brackish although still fit +for use. The reach on which we embarked afforded us a view for a mile +further down the river; the vista being truly picturesque and with the +interest attached to the scene it looked indeed quite enchanting. We +pulled on through the silent waters, awakening the slumbering echoes with +many a shot at the numerous swans or ducks. At length another change took +place in the general course of the river which from west turned to +east-south-east. The height of the banks appeared to diminish rapidly and +a very numerous flock of the small sea-swallow or tern indicated our +vicinity to the sea. The slow-flying pelican also with its huge bill +pursued, regardless of strangers its straight-forward course over the +waters. + +ISLE OF BAGS. + +A small bushy island next came in sight having on it some rocks +resembling what we should have thought a great treasure then, a pile of +flour-bags and we named it accordingly the Isle of Bags. + +ARRIVAL AT THE SEACOAST. + +Soon after passing the island a few low, sandy-looking hills appeared +before us; and we found ourselves between two basins where in the water +was very shallow although we had sounded just previously to entering one +of them in four fathoms. The widest lay directly before us but having no +outlet we steered into the other on the right and on rounding a low rocky +point we saw the green rolling breakers of the sea through an opening +which proved to be the mouth of the river. It consisted of two low rocky +points and as soon as we had pulled outside of them we landed on the +eastern one. In the two basins we had seen there was scarcely sufficient +water to float the boats and thus our hopes of finding a port at the +mouth of this fine river were at once at an end. The sea broke on a sandy +beach outside and on ascending one of the sandhills near it I perceived +Cape Northumberland; the rocks outside called the Carpenters bearing 7 +degrees 20 minutes South of West (variation 3 degrees 30 minutes) and +being distant, as I judged, about fifteen miles. Mount Gambier bore 23 +degrees 40 minutes North of West and a height which seemed near the +extreme point of the coast on the eastward and which I therefore took for +Cape Bridge water bore 52 degrees East of South. + +DISCOVERY BAY. + +These points seemed distant from each other about forty miles; the line +of coast between forming one grand curve or bay which received this river +at the deepest part and which I now named Discovery Bay. + +MOUTH OF THE GLENELG. + +There was no reef of rocks upon the bar; a circumstance to be regretted +in this case for it was obvious that the entrance to this fine river and +the two basins was choked merely by the sand thrown up by the sea. The +river was four fathoms deep, the water being nearly fresh enough for use +within sight of the shore. Unfortunately perhaps for navigation there is +but little tide on that coast; the greatest rise in the lower part of the +river (judging by the floating weeds) did not exceed a foot. I was too +intent on the completion of my survey to indulge much in contemplating +the welcome sight of old ocean; but when a plank was picked up by the men +on that desolate shore and we found the initials IWB and the year 1832 +carved on wood which had probably grown in old England the sea really +seemed like home to us. Although it was low water a boat might easily +have been got out and it is probable that in certain states of the tide +and sand small craft might get in; but I nevertheless consider the mouth +of this river quite unavailable as a harbour. + +WATERHOLES DUG IN THE BEACH. + +Near the beach were holes dug apparently by the natives in which we found +the water perfectly sweet. The hills sheltering the most eastern of the +two basins were well wooded as were also those behind. The line of +sandhills on the beach seemed to rise into forest hills at about five +miles further eastward and all those in the west to within a short +distance of the coast were equally woody. The day was squally with rain; +nevertheless during an interval of sunshine I obtained the sun's meridian +altitude making the latitude 38 degrees 2 minutes 58 seconds South. I +also completed by two P.M. my survey of the mouth of the river and +adjacent country; and we then again embarked to return a few miles up the +river and encamp where wood and water were at hand. On reentering the +river from the sea I presented the men with a bottle of whisky with which +it was formally named the Glenelg after the present Secretary of State +for the Colonies according to my previous intention. + +REMARKABLE HOLLOW. + +August 21. + +We had encamped in a rather remarkable hollow on the right bank at the +extreme western bend of the river. There was no modern indication that +water either lodged in or ran through that ravine although the channel +resembled in width the bed of some considerable tributary; the rock +presenting a section of cliffs on each side and the bottom being broad +but consisting of black earth only in which grew trees of eucalyptus. I +found on following it some way up that it led to a low tract of country +which I regretted much I could not then examine further. I found shells +embedded in limestone varying considerably in its hardness being +sometimes very friable and the surface in some places presenting +innumerable fragments of corallines, with pectens, spatangi, echini, +ostrea and foraminifera. + +LIMESTONE CAVERN. + +In the opposite bank of the river I found several thin strata of compact +chert containing probably fragments of corallines, not only on the +surface but embedded in the limestone. In pulling up the river this +morning we observed a cavern or opening in the side of the limestone rock +and having ascended to it by means of a rope we entered with lights. It +proved to be only a large fissure and after penetrating about 150 yards +underground we met with red earth, apparently fallen from the surface. We +found at the mouth of the fissure some fine specimens of shells, coral, +and other marine productions, embedded in several thin strata of a +coarser structure under one of very compact limestone upwards of 20 feet +thick.* + +(*Footnote. In the fragments brought home Mr. George Sowerby found a +nucula, very much resembling some species of South America although not +like any from Australia. Portions of lucinae, echinus, spatangi, and +turritella or melania, were comprised in specimens from a softer stratum +which was the lowest.) + +ONE FISH CAUGHT IN THE GLENELG. + +While the people in the boat awaited us there a fish was taken by +Muirhead who had also caught the first fish in the river Darling. That of +the Glenelg was a saltwater fish known at Sydney by the name of Snapper.* + +(*Footnote. This was the only fish caught in the Glenelg notwithstanding +the men threw in their lines whenever we encamped on its banks. The +weather was too cold for it was evident the river did contain fish from +the trellised work which the natives had set across it in the upper +parts.) + +STORMY WEATHER. + +The weather was more moderate today although still showery; and the +scenery as we proceeded upwards was very picturesque and full of variety. +At sunset we encamped about a mile and a half short of our camp of the +18th and just as the trees were groaning under a heavy squall which +obliged us to land on the first spot where sufficient room was left in +the thick woods for our tents. This spot happened to be on a steep bit of +bank; and in the evening I was called in haste to a new danger. The wind +had suddenly changed and blew with great fury filling my tent with sparks +from a large fire which burnt before it. I had placed in it according to +usual custom our stock of ammunition in a keg; and notwithstanding these +precautions its preservation now between the two elements of fire and +water was rather doubtful. We contrived however to avert the danger and +were no more disturbed during the night except by the storm. + +RETURN TO THE DEPOT. + +August 22. + +The squally weather continued until noon when sunbeams again adorned the +river-scenery. We met with no impediment in the current until within +about six miles of the depot camp when dead trees in the channel began +again to appear; but we passed them all without hindrance and reached +Fort O'Hare at two o'clock where we found all well. Mr. Stapylton had set +Vulcan to repair the broken chains etc., a ford had been cleared across +the stream from the north-east which I named the Crawford; and the cattle +being refreshed we were once more in trim to continue the land journey. +The height of the water in the river had undergone no change during our +absence and was probably about its usual level there although I observed +abundant marks of flood in the branches of trees where dry floated matter +remained at the height of fifteen feet above the water as it stood then. +The rock about this position consisted of limestone apparently similar to +that seen on its banks higher up. (See August 15.) It possessed a +stalactitic aspect by the infiltration of calcareous matter and in +crevices below I found a reddish stalagmite containing grains of sand. +Large petrified oyster shells lay loosely about the bank above these +cliffs. No natives had approached the depot during our absence and we had +indeed reason to believe that the adjacent country contained but few +inhabitants. + +DIFFERENCE IN LONGITUDE. + +During the afternoon I laid down my survey of the estuary of the Glenelg +and completed by 10 P.M., not only my plan of it but that of the river +also. I found a considerable difference between the result of my survey +and the Admiralty charts not only in the longitude but also in the +relative position of the two capes with respect to Mount Gambier a +solitary hill easily recognised.* + +(*Footnote. At that time I supposed the difference had arisen from some +error or omission in my map and took much pains to discover it; but not +having succeeded my work having also closed to a mile and three-quarters +on my return to the country connected by trigonometrical survey with +Sydney I have been obliged to represent these parts of the coast +according to this land survey.) + + +CHAPTER 3.11. + +Leave the Glenelg and travel eastward. +Cross the Crawford. +Boggy character of its sources. +Recross the Rifle range. +Heavy timber the chief impediment. +Travelling also difficult from the softness of the ground. +Excursion southward to Portland Bay. +Mount Eckersley. +Cross the Fitzroy. +Cross the Surry. +Lady Julia Percy's Isle. +Beach of Portland Bay. +A vessel at anchor. +House and farming establishment there. +Whale fishery. +Excursion to Cape Nelson. +Mount Kincaid. +A whale chase. +Sagacity of the natives on the coast. +Mount Clay. +Return to the camp. +Still retarded by the soft soil. +Leave one of the boats, and reduce the size of the boat carriage. +Excursion to Mount Napier. +Cross some fine streams. +Natives very timid. +Crater of Mount Napier or Murroa. +View from the summit. +Return to the Camp. +Mr. Stapylton's excursion to the north-west. +The Shaw. +Conduct the carts along the highest ground. +Again ascend Murroa and partially clear the summit. +Mount Rouse. +Australian Pyrenees. +Swamps harder than the ground around them. +Again reach the good country. +Mounts Bainbrigge and Pierrepoint. +Mount Sturgeon. +Ascend Mount Abrupt. +View of the Grampians from the summit. +Victoria range and the Serra. +Mud again, and a broken axle. +Mr. Stapylton examines the country before us. +At length get through the soft region. +Cattle quite exhausted. +Determine to leave them in a depot to refresh while I proceed forward. +Specimens of natural history. +Situation of depot camp at Lake Repose. + +LEAVE THE GLENELG AND TRAVEL EASTWARD. + +August 23. + +Having at length disposed of the course of the Glenelg, my next object +was to cross and examine the high ground which enclosed its basin on the +east supplying those tributaries which the river received from its left +bank, and evidently extending from the Grampians to Cape Bridgewater. I +had named this the Rifle range in crossing that branch of it extending +north-westward when I ascertained its characteristics to be lofty woods +and swamps; but its ramifications in other directions and how it was +connected backwards with the mountains still remained to be discovered; +and from what I did know of this range I apprehended considerable +difficulty in getting over it with our heavy carriages at such a season. +That we might if possible escape the bogs, I devoted the day to an +extensive reconnaissance of the country before us; my guide in this case +being the river Crawford which, flowing in deep ravines, was likely to +afford (so long as its general course continued to be nearly parallel to +our route) one means at least of avoiding those soft swampy flats which +could not possibly impede us so long as the side of such a ravine as that +of the river was within reach. I had the good fortune to find that the +range in general was firm under the hoof, and its direction precisely +such as I wished. Extensive swamps occasionally appeared on my right; but +I had on the left the deep ravines of the Crawford, and I travelled +across the highest slopes of the ground. Having thus found good sound +turf for twelve miles in the direction in which I wished to take the +carriages, I returned on descending from a trap range where the rock +consisted of granular felspar and hornblende with crystals of glassy +felspar. On this hill the soil was exceedingly rich and the grass green +and luxuriant. I obtained thence a most useful bearing on Mount Gambier, +and saw also some heights to the eastward beyond the Rifle range. The +timber grew to an enormous size on the ranges which I traversed this day; +it consisted chiefly of that species of eucalyptus known as stringybark. +Some of the trees we measured were 13 feet and one as much as 14 1/2 feet +in circumference, and 80 feet was no uncommon height. The fallen timber +was of such magnitude as to present a new impediment to our progress for +we had not previously met with such an obstruction on any journey. + +CROSS THE CRAWFORD. + +August 24. + +The carriages were taken across the Crawford without much delay +considering its depth and the softness of the banks. The carts sank at +least five feet in the water yet nothing was damaged for we had taken +care to pack the flour and other perishable articles on the tops of the +loads. We succeeded in crossing the rivulets at the heads of several +ravines by filling up their channels with logs; and thus, after crossing +the last of these, and ascending the steep bank beyond it, we encamped +after a journey of seven miles. The weather had been stormy on both days +since I crossed the Crawford, a circumstance very much against our +progress. Near this camp we found a new Correa, resembling C. virens but +having distinctly cordate toothed leaves with less down on their +underside and a much shorter calyx.* + +(*Footnote. C. cordifolia, Lindley manuscripts; stellato-tomentosa, +foliis subsessilibus cordatis ovatis denticulatis obtusis planis supra +glabris, corollis tubulosis cernuis, calyce truncato brevissimo.) + +BOGGY CHARACTER OF ITS SOURCES. + +August 25. + +In our progress eastward we were still governed by the line of the +Crawford; and the tortuous direction of the ravines connected with it +required constant attention, while the very variable character of the +swamps at the head of them was still more perplexing. We succeeded in +finding a passage between all this day also and, on again crossing a +small mountain torrent by filling up the chasm with dead timber, we +encamped after another journey of seven miles. On our left to the +northward lay a deep valley in which we found a broad sheet of water +covered with ducks, the banks being soft and overgrown with reeds. A +considerable stream flowed westward from this lake through a narrow part +of the valley, so that I concluded we were still on the principal branch +of the Crawford. Trees of large dimensions were abundant and the fallen +timber impeded our progress even more than any unusual softness of the +earth. + +August 26. + +After proceeding several miles without lett or hindrance, having +successfully crossed some swampy rivulets all flowing to the left amidst +thick scrubs, we at length arrived at a watercourse in which my horse +went down, and which filled a very wide swampy bed enclosed by a thick +growth of young mimosa trees, through which it was necessary to cut a +passage wide enough for the carts. The scrub having been thus cleared to +the extent of about 100 yards with much labour, I found only then +unfortunately that although the roots grew very closely, and that water +flowed over the surface, the earth was withal so soft that I could at +every point with ease push a stick five feet down without reaching any +firm bottom. The loose cattle were driven in, an experiment which until +then we had tried with success in doubtful places, but they with +difficulty got across this, for one of them sank and could not be +extricated without considerable delay. While the men were busily employed +there I rode to the head of the swamp which extended about a mile to the +southward. On this swampy plain I at length succeeded in finding, with +Mr. Stapylton's assistance, a line of route likely to bear the carts and +we passed safely in that direction, not one carriage having gone down. +While on this swampy surface we distinctly heard the breakers of the sea +apparently at no great distance to the south-west, and I was convinced +that the head of this swamp was about the highest ground immediately +adjacent to Discovery Bay. On travelling a mile and a half further we +reached a small rivulet, the first we had crossed flowing to the south. +Beyond it the country appeared open and good, consisting of what is +termed forest land with casuarinae and banksia growing upon it. + +RECROSS THE RIFLE RANGE. + +We had at length reached the highest parts of the range and were about to +descend into the country beyond it. We continued to travel a considerable +distance further than the rivulet flowing to the south. Crossing others +running northward or to the left, and leaving also on the same side a +swamp, we finally came to a higher range clothed with trees of gigantic +size, attesting the strength and depth of the soil, and here enormous old +trunks obstructed our passage, covering the surface so as to form an +impediment almost as great to us as the swampy ground had been; but this +large timber so near the coast was an important feature in that country. +Piper, having climbed to the top of one of these trees, perceived some +fine green hills to the south-east, saying they were very near us and +that the sea was visible beyond them. It was late in the afternoon when I +reluctantly changed my intended route, which had been until then +eastward, to proceed in the direction recommended by Piper, or to the +south-east and so to follow down a valley, instead of my proposed route +which had been along a favourable range. + +HEAVY TIMBER THE CHIEF IMPEDIMENT. + +I had still less reason to be satisfied with the change when, after +pushing my horse through thick scrubs and bogs until twilight and looking +in vain for a passage for the carts, I encountered at length bushes so +thickly set and bogs so soft that any further progress in that direction +was out of the question; and thus on the evening when I hoped to have +entered a better sort of country after so successful a passage of the +range we encamped where but little grass could be found for the cattle, +our tents being not only under lofty trees but amongst thick bushes and +bogs during very rainy weather. + +TRAVELLING ALSO DIFFICULT FROM THE SOFTNESS OF THE GROUND. + +August 27. + +I was so anxious to get into open ground again that, as soon as daylight +permitted, I carefully examined the environs of our camp, and I found +that we occupied a broad flat where the drainage from the hills met and +spread among bushes, so that at one time I almost despaired of +extricating the party otherwise than by returning to the hill at which I +had first altered my route. The track we made had been however so much +cut up by our wheels that I preferred the chance of finding a passage +northward which, of course, was also less out of our way. We reached an +extremity of the hill (the nearest to us on that side) with much less +difficulty than I had reason to apprehend and, keeping along that +feature, we soon regained a range which led us east-north-east. By +proceeding in this direction however we could not avoid the passage of a +valley where the water was not confined to any channel, but spread and +lodged on a wide tract of very soft ground, also covered with mimosa +bushes and a thick growth of young saplings of eucalyptus. The light +carts and the first heavy cart got over this soft ground or bog, but the +others and the boat carriage sank up to the axles so that we were obliged +to halt after having proceeded about five miles only. This was near a +fine forest-hill consisting of trap-rock in a state of decomposition, but +apparently similar to that of the trap-rock I had ascended on the 23rd of +August; and from a tree there Burnett thought he saw the sea to the +north-east, and even to the northward of a remarkable conical hill. The +discovery of the sea in that direction was so different from the +situation of the shore as laid down on the maps that I began to hope an +inlet might exist there as yet undiscovered, the "Cadong," perhaps, of +the native woman, "where white men had never been."* + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +EXCURSION SOUTHWARD TO PORTLAND BAY. + +I had now proceeded far enough to the eastward to be able to examine the +coast about Portland Bay and extend my survey to the capes in its +neighbourhood, the better to ascertain their longitude. I therefore +determined to make an excursion in that direction and thus afford time +not only for the extrication of the heavy carts still remaining in the +mud but also for the repose of the cattle after their labours. + +August 28. + +By the survey proposed I hoped to extend my map of the country +sufficiently in that direction to be at liberty, on my return to the +party, to pursue a route directly homeward; not doubting that at a short +distance to the northward of our camp we should again enter the beautiful +open country which, when seen from the mouth of the Wannon, seemed to +extend as far as could be seen to the eastward. In our ride to the south +we reached, at four miles from the boggy ground, a fine green hill +consisting of trap-rock and connected with a ridge of the same +description which extended about two miles further to the southward. + +MOUNT ECKERSLEY. + +There we found it to terminate abruptly in a lofty brow, quite clear of +timber and commanding an extensive view to the east and south over a much +lower country. This hill had a very remarkable feature--a deep chasm +separating it from the ridge behind, the sides being so steep as to +present a section of the trap-rock which consisted principally of compact +felspar. The hill which I named Mount Eckersley was covered, as well as +the ridge to which it belonged, with a luxuriant crop of anthisterium, or +kangaroo grass. Unfortunately the weather was squally but, by awaiting +the intervals between clouds on the horizon, I obtained angles at length +on nearly all the distant hills, the waters of Portland Bay just +appearing in the south over an intervening woody ridge. From this hill I +recognised a very conspicuous flat-topped hill to the northward which had +been previously included in a series of angles observed on the 12th +instant from the valley of the Wannon and which I now named Mount Napier. +Portland Bay was distant about fifteen miles but the intervening country +seemed so low, and swamps entirely clear of timber appeared in so many +places, that I could scarcely hope to get through it: knowing it to +contain all the water from those boggy valleys where our progress had +been already so much impeded. Smoke arose from various parts of the lower +country--a proof that at least some dry land was there. We were provided +with horses only, and therefore desperately determined to flounder +through or even to swim if necessary, we thrust them down the hill. On +its side we met an emu which stood and stared, apparently fearless as if +the strange quadrupeds had withdrawn its keen eye from the more familiar +enemies who bestrode them. In the lower country we saw also a kangaroo, +an animal that seldom frequents marshy lands. I was agreeably surprised +to find also, on descending, that the rich grass extended among the trees +across the lower country; and I was still more pleased on coming to a +fine running stream at about three miles from the hill and after crossing +a tract of land of the richest description. Reeds grew thickly amongst +the long grass, and the ground appeared to be of a different character +from any that I had previously seen. This seemed to be just such land as +would produce wheat during the driest seasons and never become sour even +in the wettest, such as this season undoubtedly was. + +CROSS THE FITZROY. + +The timber was thin and light and, with a fine deep stream flowing +through it, the tract which at first sight from Mount Eckersley I had +considered so sterile and wet proved to be one likely at no distant day +to smile under luxuriant crops of grain. We found the river (which I +named the Fitzroy) fordable, although deep at the place where we first +came upon it. Shady trees of the mimosa kind grew along the banks and the +earth was now good and firm on both sides. We heard the natives as we +approached this stream and cooeyed to them; but our calls had only the +effect, as appeared from the retiring sound of their voices, of making +them run faster away. Continuing our ride southward we entered at two +miles beyond the Fitzroy a forest of the stringybark eucalyptus; and +although the anthisterium still grew in hollows I saw swampy open flats +before us which I endeavoured to avoid, sometimes by passing between them +and finally by turning to a woody range on the left. I ascended this +range as night came on, in hopes of finding grass for our horses; but +there the mimosa and xanthorrhoea alone prevailed--the latter being a +sure indication of sterility and scanty vegetation. We found naked ground +higher up consisting of deep lagoons and swamps amongst which I was +satisfied with my success in passing through in such a direction as +enabled me to regain, in a dark and stormy night, the shelter of the +woods on the side of the range. But I sought in vain for the grass, so +abundant elsewhere on this day's ride, and we were at length under the +necessity of halting for the night where but little food could be found +for our horses, and under lofty trees that creaked and groaned to the +blast. + +August 29. + +The groaning trees had afforded us shelter without letting fall even a +single branch upon our heads,* but the morning was squally and +unfavourable for the objects of the excursion, and we had still to ride +some way before I could commence operations. Proceeding along the skirts +of the woody ridge on the left in order to avoid swamps, we at length saw +through the trees the blue waters of the sea and heard the roar of the +waves. + +(*Footnote. The Australian woods are in general very brittle, and no +experienced bushman likes to sleep under trees, especially during high +winds.) + +CROSS THE SURRY. + +My intended way towards the deepest part of the bay and the hills beyond +it did not lead directly to the shore, and I continued to pursue a course +through the woods, having the shore on our left. We thus met a deep and +rapid little river exactly resembling the Fitzroy and coming also from +the westward. Tracing this a short distance upwards we came to a place +set with a sort of trelliswork of bushes by the natives for the purpose, +no doubt, of catching fish. Here we found the stream fordable though +deep; a brownish granular limestone appearing in the bank. We crossed and +then continuing through a thick wood we came out at length on the shore +of Portland Bay at about four miles beyond the little river. + +LADY JULIA PERCY'S ISLE. + +Straight before us lay Laurence's Island, or rather, islands, there being +two small islets of rock in that situation; and, some way to the eastward +I perceived a much larger island which I concluded was one of Lady Julia +Percy's Isles. At a quarter of a mile back from the beach broad +broom-topped casuarinae were the only trees we could see; these grew on +long ridges parallel to the beach, resembling those long breakers which, +aided by winds, had probably thrown such ridges up. They were abundantly +covered with excellent grass and, as it wanted about an hour of noon, I +halted that the cattle might feed while I took some angles and +endeavoured to obtain the sun's altitude during the intervals between +heavy squalls, some of which were accompanied by hail and thunder. + +BEACH OF PORTLAND BAY. + +On reaching the seashore at this beach I turned to observe the face of +Tommy Came-last, one of my followers who, being a native from the +interior, had never before seen the sea. I could not discover in the face +of this young savage, even on his first view of the ocean, any expression +of surprise; on the contrary the placid and comprehensive gaze he cast +over it seemed fully to embrace the grand expanse then for the first time +opened to him. + +A VESSEL AT ANCHOR. HOUSE AND FARMING ESTABLISHMENT THERE. + +I was much more astonished when he soon after came to tell me of the +fresh tracks of cattle that he had found on the shore, and the shoemarks +of a white man. He also brought me portions of tobacco-pipes and a glass +bottle without a neck. That whaling vessels occasionally touched there I +was aware, as was indeed obvious from the carcasses and bones of whales +on the beach; but how cattle could have been brought there I did not +understand. Proceeding round the bay with the intention of examining the +head of an inlet and continuing along shore as far as Cape Bridgewater, I +was struck with the resemblance to houses that some supposed grey rocks +under the grassy cliffs presented; and while I directed my glass towards +them my servant Brown said he saw a brig at anchor; a fact of which I was +soon convinced and also that the grey rocks were in reality wooden +houses. The most northern part of the shore of this bay was comparatively +low, but the western consisted of bold cliffs rising to the height of 180 +feet. + +We ascended these cliffs near the wooden houses which proved to be some +deserted sheds of the whalers. One shot was heard as we drew near them +and another on our ascending the rocks. I then became somewhat +apprehensive that the parties might either be, or suppose us to be, +bushrangers and, to prevent if possible some such awkward mistake, I +ordered a man to fire a gun and the bugle to be sounded; but on reaching +the higher ground we discovered not only a beaten path but the track of +two carts, and while we were following the latter a man came towards us +from the face of the cliffs. He informed me in answer to my questions +that the vessel at anchor was the Elizabeth of Launceston; and that just +round the point there was a considerable farming establishment belonging +to Messrs. Henty, who were then at the house. It then occurred to me that +I might there procure a small additional supply of provisions, especially +of flour, as my men were on very reduced rations. I therefore approached +the house and was kindly received and entertained by the Messrs. Henty +who as I learnt had been established there during upwards of two years. +It was very obvious indeed from the magnitude and extent of the buildings +and the substantial fencing erected that both time and labour had been +expended in their construction. A good garden stocked with abundance of +vegetables already smiled on Portland Bay; the soil was very rich on the +overhanging cliffs, and the potatoes and turnips produced there surpassed +in magnitude and quality any I had ever seen elsewhere. + +WHALE FISHERY. + +I learnt that the bay was much resorted to by vessels engaged in the +whale fishery and that upwards of 700 tons of oil had been shipped that +season. I was likewise informed that only a few days before my arrival +five vessels lay at anchor together in that bay, and that a communication +was regularly kept up with Van Diemen's Land by means of vessels from +Launceston. Messrs. Henty were importing sheep and cattle as fast as +vessels could be found to bring them over, and the numerous whalers +touching at or fishing on the coast were found to be good customers for +farm produce and whatever else could be spared from the establishment. + +Portland Bay is well sheltered from all winds except the east-south-east, +and the anchorage is so good that a vessel is said to have rode out a +gale even from this quarter. The part of the western shore where the land +is highest shelters a small bay which might be made a tolerable harbour +by means of two piers or quays erected on reefs of a kind of rock +apparently very favourable for the purpose, namely amygdaloidal trap in +rounded boulders. The present anchorage in four fathoms is on the outside +of these reefs, and the water in this little bay is in general smooth +enough for the landing of boats. A fine stream falls into the bay there +and the situation seems altogether a most eligible one for the site of a +town. The rock is trap consisting principally of felspar; and the soil is +excellent as was amply testified by the luxuriant vegetation in Mr. +Henty's garden. + +EXCURSION TO CAPE NELSON. + +August 30. + +I proceeded with the theodolite to a height near Cape Nelson and from it +I intersected that cape and also Cape Bridgewater, Cape Sir William +Grant, the islands to the eastward, etc. + +MOUNT KINCAID. + +I here recognised also the high hill which appeared within these capes +when first seen from the westward. It formed the most elevated part of +the Rifle range at its termination on the coast and I was informed by Mr. +Henty that there was a fine lake at its base. I named the hill Mount +Kincaid after my old and esteemed friend of Peninsular recollections. +Returning to the party at Portland Bay where I had left my sextant, I +then obtained a good observation on the sun's meridian altitude. I was +accommodated with a small supply of flour by Messrs. Henty who, having +been themselves on short allowance, were awaiting the arrival of a vessel +then due two weeks. They also supplied us with as many vegetables as the +men could carry away on their horses. + +A WHALE CHASE. + +Just as I was about to leave the place a whale was announced and +instantly three boats well manned were seen cutting through the water, a +harpooneer standing up at the stern of each with oar in hand and +assisting the rowers by a forward movement at each stroke. It was not the +least interesting scene in these my Australian travels thus to witness +from a verandah on a beautiful afternoon at Portland Bay the humours of +the whale fishery and all those wondrous perils of harpooneers and whale +boats of which I had delighted to read as scenes of the stormy north. The +object of the present pursuit was "a hunchback" and it being likely to +occupy the boats for some time I proceeded homewards. + +SAGACITY OF THE NATIVES ON THE COAST. + +I understood it frequently happened that several parties of fishermen +left by different whaling vessels would engage in the pursuit of the same +whale, and that in the struggle for possession the whale would +occasionally escape from them all and run ashore, in which case it is of +little value to whalers as the removal, etc., would be too tedious and +they in such cases carry away part of the head matter only. The natives +never approach these whalers, nor had they ever shown themselves to the +white people of Portland Bay but, as they have taken to eat the castaway +whales, it is their custom to send up a column of smoke when a whale +appears in the bay, and the fishers understand the signal. This affords +an instance of the sagacity of the natives for they must have reflected +that, by thus giving timely notice, a greater number will become +competitors for the whale and that consequently there will be a better +chance of the whale running ashore, in which case a share must fall +finally to them. The fishers whom I saw were fine able fellows; and with +their large ships and courageous struggles with the whales they must seem +terrible men of the sea to the natives. The neat trim of their boats set +up on stanchions on the beach looked well, with oars and in perfect +readiness to dash at the moment's notice into the angry surge. Upon the +whole, what with the perils they undergo and their incessant labour in +boiling the oil, these men do not earn too cheaply the profits derived +from that kind of speculation. I saw on the shore the wreck of a fine +boat which had been cut in two by a single stroke of the tail of a whale. +The men were about to cast their net into the sea to procure a supply of +fish for us when the whale suddenly engaged all hands. + +We returned along the shore of the bay, intersecting at its estuary the +mouth of the little river last crossed and which, at the request of Mr. +Henty, I have named the Surry. This river enters Portland Bay in latitude +38 degrees 15 minutes 43 seconds South; longitude (by my survey)141 +degrees 58 minutes East. We encamped on the rich grassy land just beyond +and I occupied for the night a snug old hut of the natives. + +August 31. + +Early this morning Richardson caught a fine bream and I had indeed been +informed by Messrs. Henty that these streams abound with this fish. + +MOUNT CLAY. + +On ascending the highest point of the hill immediately behind the estuary +of the Surry and which I named Mount Clay, I found it consisted of good +forest land, and that its ramifications extended over as much as three +miles. Beyond it we descended into the valley of the Fitzroy, and at noon +I ascertained the latitude where we had before forded it to be 38 degrees +8 minutes 51 seconds South. The river had risen in the interim a foot and +a half, so that we were obliged to carry the flour across on the heads of +the men wading up to the neck. When we reached the summit of Mount +Eckersley, the horizon being clear, I completed my series of angles on +points visible from that station by observing the Julian Island and Mount +Abrupt, two of great importance in my survey which were hidden from our +sight by the squally weather when I was last on this hill. + +RETURN TO THE CAMP. + +We reached the camp about sunset and found all right there, the carts +having been drawn out of the bogs, all the claw-chains repaired by the +blacksmith, our hatchets resteeled, and two new shafts made for the heavy +carts. Piper had during our absence killed abundance of kangaroos, and I +now rejoiced at his success on account of the aboriginal portion of our +party for whose stomachs, being of savage capacity, quantity was a more +important consideration than quality in the article of food, and we were +then living on a very reduced scale of rations. On my return from such +excursions The Widow and her child frequently gave notice of our approach +long before we reached the camp: their quick ears seemed sensible of the +sound of horses' feet at an astonishing distance, for in no other way +could the men account for the notice which Turandurey and her child, +seated at their own fire, were always the first to give of my return, +sometimes long before our appearance at the camp. Piper was usually the +first to meet me and assure me of the safety of the party, as if he had +taken care of it during my absence; and I encouraged his sense of +responsibility by giving him credit for the security they had enjoyed. A +serene evening, lovely in itself, looked doubly beautiful then as our +hopes of getting home were inseparable from fine weather, for on this +chance our final escape from the mud and bogs seemed very much to depend. +The barometer however indicated rather doubtfully. + +September 1. + +Heavy rain and fog detained us in the same camp this morning and I +availed myself of the day for the purpose of laying down my recent +survey. The results satisfied me that the coastline on the engraved map +was very defective and indeed the indentations extended so much deeper +into the land that I still entertained hopes of finding some important +inlet to the eastward, analogous to that remarkable break of the mountain +chain at Mount William. + +STILL RETARDED BY THE SOFT SOIL. + +September 2. + +We travelled as much in a north-east direction as the ground permitted +but, although I should most willingly have followed the connecting +features whatever their directions, I could not avoid the passage of +various swamps or boggy soft hollows in which the carts and more +especially the boat-carriage, notwithstanding the greatest exertions on +the part of the men, again sank up to the axles. I had proceeded with the +light carts and one heavy cart nearly nine miles while the boat-carriage +fell at least six miles behind me, the other heavy carts having also been +retarded from the necessity for yoking additional teams to the cattle +drawing the boats. The weather was still unsettled and the continued +rains had at length made the surface so soft that even to ride over it +was in many places difficult. I had reached some fine forest land on the +bank of a running stream where the features were bolder, and I hoped to +arrive soon at the good country near the head of the Wannon. I encamped +without much hope that the remainder of the party could join us that +night and they in fact did remain six miles behind. I had never been more +puzzled in my travels than I was with respect to the nature of the +country before us then. Mount Napier bore 74 degrees East of North +distant about 16 miles. The little rivulet was flowing northward, and yet +we had not reached the interior side of that elevated though swampy +ground dividing the fine valleys we had seen further westward from the +country sloping towards the sea. + +LEAVE ONE OF THE BOATS, AND REDUCE THE SIZE OF THE BOAT CARRIAGE. + +September 3. + +This morning we had steady rain accompanied as usual by a north-west +wind; I remarked also that at any rise of the barometer after such rain +the wind changed to the south-east in situations near the coast, or to +the north-east when we were more inland. I sent back the cattle we had +brought forward to this camp to assist those behind, and in the meanwhile +Mr. Stapylton took a ride along the ridge on which we were encamped in +order to ascertain its direction. Towards evening Burnett returned from +the carts with the intelligence that the boat-carriage could not be got +out of the swamps and that, after the men had succeeded in raising it +with levers and had drawn it some way, it had again sunk and thus delayed +the carts, but that the latter were at length coming on, two men having +been left behind with the boat-carriage. Mr. Stapylton returned in the +afternoon having ascertained that a swamp of upwards of a mile in breadth +and extending north and south as far as he could see lay straight before +us, and he had concluded that the rivulet upon which we were then +encamped turned into it. Under such circumstances we could not hope to be +able to travel much further with the boats, nor even indeed with the +carts unless we found ground with a firmer surface in the country before +us. Ere we could reach the nearest habitations of civilised men we had +yet to traverse 400 miles of a country intersected by the highest +mountains and watered by the largest rivers known in New Holland. + +September 4. + +Although the boats and their carriage had been of late a great hindrance +to us I was very unwilling to abandon such useful appendages to an +exploring party, having already drawn them overland nearly 3000 miles. A +promising part of the coast might still be explored, large rivers were to +be crossed, and we had already found boats useful on such occasions. One +however might answer these temporary purposes, since for the main object, +the exploration of inland seas, they could not possibly be wanted. We had +two and the outer one, which was both larger and heavier than the inner, +had been shaken so much when suspended without the thwarts that she was +almost unserviceable in the water, and very leaky as we had lately found +in exploring the Glenelg. She had in fact all along served as a case for +the inner boat, which could thus be kept distended by the thwarts and was +consequently in excellent repair and in every respect the best. I +determined therefore to abandon the outer boat and shorten the carriage +so that the fore and hind wheels would be brought two feet nearer each +other. I expected from this arrangement that, instead of boats retarding +the party, this one might thus be drawn in advance with the light carts. + +EXCURSION TO MOUNT NAPIER. + +Having directed the alteration to be made during my intended absence I +set out for Mount Napier and soon found the broad swamp before me. After +riding up an arm of it to the left for a mile and a half I found it +passable and, having crossed, we proceeded towards the hill by a rather +circuitous route but over a fine tract of country although then very soft +under our horses' feet. + +CROSS SOME FINE STREAMS. + +We next reached a deeper ravine where the land on each side was more open +and also firmer, while a small rivulet flowing through it amongst bushes +was easily crossed, and we ascended some fine rising ground beyond it. +Rich flats then extended before us and we arrived at an open grassy +valley where a beautiful little stream resembling a river in miniature +was flowing rapidly. Two very substantial huts showed that even the +natives had been attracted by the beauty of the spot and, as the day was +showery, I wished to return if possible to pass the night there, for I +began to learn that such huts with a good fire before them made very +comfortable quarters in bad weather. + +NATIVES VERY TIMID. + +We had heard voices in the woods several times this day but their +inhabitants seemed as timid as kangaroos and not more likely to come near +us. The blue mass of Mount Napier was visible occasionally through the +trees, but I found as we proceeded that we were not so near it as I had +supposed, for at three miles beyond the little stream we came upon one of +greater magnitude, a small river flowing southward with open grassy banks +in which two kinds of trap-rock appeared. The edge of a thin layer of the +lowest, a nearly decomposed trap, projected over the stream; the other +lay in rounded blocks in the face of the hill above, and appeared to be +decomposed amygdaloid, principally felspar. The river ran through a +valley where the forest land was remarkably open, being sprinkled with +only a few trees as in a park, and this stream appeared to fall into the +head of the extensive swamp already mentioned. About a mile beyond the +river (which I named the Shaw) we came upon the extremities of Mount +Napier, for at least so I considered some rough sharp-pointed fragments +of rock laying about in heaps, which we found it very difficult and +tedious to ride over: indeed so sharp-edged and large were these rocks on +the slopes of the terraces they formed that we were often obliged to +dismount and lead our horses. In these fragments I recognised the +cellular character of the rocks I had noticed in the bed of the Shaw. The +rock here might have been taken for decomposed amygdaloid but, having +found the vestiges of an old crater in the summit of the hill, I was +induced to consider it an ancient lava. The reefs at Portland Bay consist +of the same rock in rounded nodules, a more compact trap-rock consisting +principally of felspar lying above them, as was observable in the section +of the coast. In some of the fragments on Mount Napier these cells or +pores were several inches in diameter and, unlike amygdaloidal rocks, all +were quite empty. The surface consisted wholly of this stone, without any +intermediate soil to soften its asperity under the feet of our horses, +and yet it was covered with a wood of eucalyptus and mimosa, growing +there as on the open forest land between which and this stony region the +chief difference consisted in the ruggedness of surface, this being +broken as already stated into irregular terraces where loose stones lay +in irregular heaps and hollows, most resembling old stone quarries. We +travelled over three miles of this rough surface before we reached the +base of the cone. + +CRATER OF MOUNT NAPIER OR MURROA. + +On the sides of it we found some soft red earth mixed with fragments of +lava and on reaching the summit I found myself on the narrow edge of a +circular crater composed wholly of lava and scoriae. Trees and bushes +grew luxuriantly everywhere except where the sharp rocks shot up almost +perpendicularly. The igneous character of these was so obvious that one +of the men thrust his hand into a chasm to ascertain whether it was warm. + +VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. + +The discovery of an extinct volcano gave additional interest to Mount +Napier, but it was by no means a better station for the theodolite on +that account; on the contrary it was the worst possible for, as the trees +grew on the edge of the crater, no one station could be found to afford a +view of the horizon until the whole circumference was cleared of the +trees, and this was too great a work for us at that visit. Mount William +and the Grampian range presented a noble outline to the northward. The +sun had set before I could recognise distant points in the highly +interesting country to be seen from this remarkable hill. The weather was +also unfavourable and I descended to pass the night at its base in hopes +that the next morning might be clear. + +RETURN TO THE CAMP. + +On reaching the spot where I had left the horses I found that our native +friend Tommy Came-last could discover no water in any of the numerous +hollows around the hill and, though the superabundance of this element +had caused the chief impediment to our progress through the country at +that time, we were obliged to pass a night most uncomfortably from the +total want of it at the base of Mount Napier. The spongy-looking rocks +were however dry enough to sleep upon, a quality of which the soil in +general had been rather deficient, as most of us felt in our muscles. I +perceived a remarkable uniformity in the size of the trees, very few of +which were dead or fallen. From this circumstance, together with the +deficiency of the soil and the sharp edge of the rock generally, some +might conclude that the volcano had been in activity at no very remote +period. + +September 5. + +A thick fog hung upon the mountain until half-past 10 A.M. and when I +ascended an extremity I could see nothing of the distance. I had however +ascertained the nature of the country thus far, this having been the +object of my visit and, as I had resolved from what I had seen to pass to +the northward at no great distance from this hill, I returned with less +reluctance, in hopes that I might have it in my power yet to revisit it +during more favourable weather. The day was squally with several very +heavy showers, the wind being from the south-west. We saw two natives at +a fire when we were returning, and our friend Tommy readily advanced +towards them but they immediately set up such loud and incessant cries +that I called to him to come away. After a ride of twenty-six miles +across swamps and many muddy hollows we reached soon after sunset the +camp which I had directed to be moved back to near where the boats lay. I +found that these had been drawn out of the swamp and one only brought +forward as I wished to this camp and where I found all the carts once +more ranged together. The alteration of the boat carriage required a +little more time, and I accordingly determined to halt one day that we +might also have our horses shod, several shoes having come off on the +rough rocks near Mount Napier. + +MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-WEST. + +September 6. + +This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to examine the country in a north-west +direction. Some of the swamps crossed by me yesterday had appeared to +fall westward and I wished to ascertain the situation and character of +the ground dividing them from those discharging their waters eastward or +towards the sea, as it was only by keeping on that dividing ground that I +could hope to avoid them. Mr. Stapylton proceeded nine miles north-west, +crossing many swampy flats, and at length a small rivulet, all falling +westward. Beyond the rivulet he got upon some good hills connected with +higher land. Our best line of route homewards was in a north-east +direction, or at rightangles to the route of Mr. Stapylton. + +THE SHAW. + +The great swamp already mentioned, being the channel and recipient of the +Shaw, was somewhat in my way, and my object now was to trace out the +dividing ground as we proceeded, so as to avoid the swamps on both sides. +By sunset the single boat was mounted in the shortened carriage, the +whole being now so manageable and light that the boat could be lifted out +by hand without block and tackle; and when on the carriage she could be +drawn with ease wherever the light carts could pass. Thus we got rid of +that heavy clog on our progress over soft ground, the boats, by reserving +but one; and we left the larger, keel upwards, at the swamp which had +occasioned so much delay. + +CONDUCT THE CARTS ALONG THE HIGHEST GROUND. + +September 7. + +Having chosen for a general line of route the bearing most likely to +avoid the swamps according to the knowledge I had gained of the country, +I proceeded as these and the soft ground permitted, and had the singular +and indeed unexpected good fortune to come upon my horse's track from +Mount Napier without having even seen the large swamp. The boat-carriage +now travelled with the light carts, and we at length reached the first +running stream at a short distance below where I had previously crossed +it. The bottom was boggy and the water flowed in two channels, the ground +between them being very soft. The whole party crossed it, with the +exception of two carts which did not arrive, and we encamped on the bank +beyond after a journey of about eight miles. Near this stream we found a +pretty new species of Dillwynia, with plain yellow flowers, clustered on +a long stalk at the end of the branches, and with curiously hairy +heath-like leaves. It resembles D. peduncularis but proved, on +examination, to be distinct.* + +(*Footnote. D. hispida, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis hispidulis, foliis +linearibus patulis verrucosis obtusis hispidulis, corymbis longe +pedunculatis terminalibus laxis paucifloris, pedunculo glaberrimo, +pedicellis calycibusque pubescentibus.) + +At this spot we found a very small bower of twigs, only large enough to +contain a child: the floor was hollowed out and filled with dry leaves +and feathers; and the ground around had been cut smooth, several boughs +having been also bent over it so as to be fixed in the ground at both +ends. The whole seemed connected with some mystic ceremony of the +aborigines, but which the male natives who were with us could not +explain. The gins however on being questioned said it was usual to +prepare such a bower for the reception of a new-born child. Kangaroos +were more numerous in this part of the country than in any other that we +had traversed. I counted twenty-three in one flock which passed before me +as I stood silently by a tree. Two of the men counted fifty-seven in +another flock, and it was not unusual for them to approach our camp as if +from curiosity, on which occasions two or three were occasionally caught +by our dogs. + +September 8. + +The remainder of the heavy carts not having come up, I left the two with +us to await their arrival that the men might assist the drivers with +their teams in crossing this stream. On proceeding then with the light +carts only I crossed several soft bad places, and one or two fine small +rivulets, encamping at last where we again fell in with my horse's track, +on an open space about eight miles from Mount Napier. During the day's +journey we traversed some fine open forest hills near the banks of +rivulets. We generally found the south-eastern slope of such heights very +indistinct, and the ground soft, boggy and covered with banksias. The +rock in such places consisted of the same cellular trap so common on this +side of the Grampians. Our camp lay between two swamps for no better +ground appeared on any side. I hoped however to obtain a more general +knowledge of the surrounding country from Mount Napier during clear +weather, and thus to discover some way by which we might make our escape +to the northward. The carts did not overtake us this day, and I +determined when they should arrive to overhaul them and throw away every +article of weight not absolutely required for the rest of the journey. + +AGAIN ASCEND MURROA AND PARTIALLY CLEAR THE SUMMIT. + +September 9. + +Once more I set out for Mount Napier, followed by a party of men with +axes to clear its summit, at least sufficiently for the purpose of taking +angles with the theodolite. The night had been clear and the morning was +fine, but as soon as I had ascended the hill rain-clouds gathered in the +south-west and obscured the horizon on all sides; I could only see some +points at intervals, but I took as many as I could after the men had +cleared a station for the theodolite. I perceived two very extensive +lakes in the low country between Mount Napier and the south-eastern +portion of the Grampian range, which terminated in the hill that I had +previously named Mount Abrupt. Between the largest of these waters +(called by me Lake Linlithgow) and the mountains there appeared an +extensive tract of open grassy land. + +MOUNT ROUSE. + +To the eastward at the distance of twelve miles I perceived a solitary +hill, somewhat resembling Mount Napier, and named it Mount Rouse; but a +haze still concealed the more distant country. On reaching the camp where +we arrived in the dark, I found that the carts had not even then +returned; but as the barometer promised better weather I did not much +regret their non-arrival as the delay would afford me another chance of +having a clear day on Mount Napier. + +September 10. + +I again proceeded to the hill and obtained at length a clear and +extensive view from it in all directions. In the north the Grampian +range, on all sides grand, presented a new and striking outline on this. +Far in the west I could recognise in slight breaks on a low horizon some +features of the valley of Nangeela (Glenelg). + +AUSTRALIAN PYRENEES. + +Eastward the summits of a range I thought of naming the Australian +Pyrenees were just visible over a woody horizon; and to the south-east +were several detached hills and some elevated ridges of forest land, +apparently near the coast. One isolated hill resembling a haystack was +very remarkable on the seashore. This I named Mount Hotspur being the +only elevation near Lady Julia Percy's Isle (not Isles as laid down on +the charts for there is but one, now called by whalers the Julian +Island). To the southward I could just distinguish the Laurence Islands +but a haze upon the coast prevented me from seeing that of Lady Julia +Percy. Smoke arose from many parts of the lower country and showed that +the inhabitants were very generally scattered over its surface. We could +now look on such fires with indifference, so harmless were these natives +compared with those on the Darling, and the smoke now ascended in equal +abundance from the furthest verge of the horizon. It was impossible to +discover the sources of streams or the direction of any ranges visible in +the surrounding country; but upon the whole I concluded that the only +practicable route for us homewards at that time would be through the +forests and by passing as near as possible to the base of Mount Abrupt, +the south-eastern extremity of the Grampians. Several forest hills stood +above the extensive level country extending from our camp to Mount +Abrupt, but I could trace no connection between these hills, and was +rather apprehensive that a soft and swampy country intervened. + +CRATER OF MOUNT NAPIER. + +I had this day leisure to examine the crater on this hill more +particularly and found its breadth to be 446 feet; its average depth 80 +feet. The cellular rocks and lava stood nearly perpendicular around one +portion of it; but there was a gap towards the west-north-west, on which +side the crater was open almost to its greatest depth. (See Plate 22.) +Several deep tongues of land descended from it to the west and +north-west, forming the base of the hill, and had somewhat of the +regularity of water-worn features. No marks of decomposition appeared in +the fragments projecting from the highest points, however much exposed. +On the contrary all the stringy twisted marks of fusion were as sharp and +fresh as if the lava had but recently cooled. One species of moss very +much resembled the Orchilla, and I thought it not impossible that this +valuable weed might be found here as it occurred on similar rocks at +Teneriffe. Just as I reached the highest summit this morning a +bronze-wing pigeon arose from it; a circumstance rather remarkable +considering that this was the only bird of that species seen on this side +the mountains besides the one we saw on Pigeon Ponds on the 3rd of +August. On returning to the camp I found that the carts had arrived soon +after my departure in the morning; but the men had the misfortune to lose +two bullocks in crossing the swampy stream where we had been previously +encamped. One was suffocated in the mud, and the other having lain down +in it could not be made to rise. By observing the stars alpha and beta +Centauri I ascertained the magnetic variation to be 3 degrees 2 minutes +45 seconds East, and by the sun's altitude observed this day at Mount +Napier I found the latitude of that hill to be 37 degrees 52 minutes 29 +seconds South. + +September 11. + +In order to lighten the carts as much as possible I caused the +packsaddles to be placed on the spare bullocks, and various articles +carried upon them; thus lightening to less than eight hundredweight each +the loads of two of the heavy carts which had narrow wheels and sunk most +in the ground. The old cover of the boat carriage was also laid aside, +and in its place some tarpaulins which had previously added to the loads +were laid across our remaining boat. A heavy jack used to raise +cartwheels was also left at this camp, and some iron bars that had been +taken from the boat-carriage when it was shortened. Thus lightened we +proceeded once more into the fields of mud, taking a northerly direction. +For several miles we encountered worse ground than we had ever crossed +before yet the carts came over it; but broad swamps still lay before us. + +SWAMPS HARDER THAN THE GROUND AROUND THEM. + +Despairing at length of being able to avoid them, I impatiently galloped +my horse into one and the carts followed, thanks to my impatience for +once, for I do not think that I should otherwise have discovered that a +swamp so uninviting could possibly have borne my horse, and still less +the carts. After this I ventured to pursue a less circuitous route. + +AGAIN REACH THE GOOD COUNTRY. + +About that time a yellow flower in the grass caught my eye and, +remembering that we had seen none of these golden flowers since we left +the beautiful valley of the Wannon, I ventured to hope that we were at +length approaching the good country at the head of that stream. Such was +my anxious wish when I perceived through the trees a glimpse of an open +grassy country, and immediately entered a fine clear valley with a lively +little stream flowing westward through it and which I named the Grange. +This was indeed one of the heads of the Wannon and we had at length +reached the good country. The contrast between it and that from which we +had emerged was obvious to all; even to the natives who for the first +time painted themselves in the evening and danced a spirited corrobory on +the occasion. This day Piper had seen two of the native inhabitants and +had endeavoured to persuade them to come to me, but all to no purpose +until at length, enraged at the unreasonable timidity of one of them, he +threw his tomahawk at him and nearly hit him as he edged off; an act of +which, as I told him in the strongest terms, I very much disapproved. + +September 12. + +The course of the little stream being to the northward, I proceeded along +its right bank this morning until it turned to the north-west; but we +soon after came to another to which the former seemed to be but a +tributary. Its course was almost due west, and the valley in which it +flowed was deep and boldly escarped. The stream thundered along with +considerable rapidity over a rocky bottom consisting of the same sort of +trap or ancient lava. I had little doubt that this was the principal head +of the Wannon, a river crossed by us on the 11th of August. Meeting next +an important branch falling into it from the south-east and being obliged +to cross this, we effected the passage even with the carts, although the +horses were nearly swimming. We proceeded next along a continuous ridge +of fine firm ground covered with excellent grass, and soon after we saw +before us a smaller stream flowing under a broad grassy vale and, having +crossed it also without difficulty, we encamped in one of the valleys +beyond, where this tributary appeared to originate. A finer country could +scarcely be imagined: enormous trees of the mimosa or wattle of which the +bark is so valuable grew almost everywhere; and several new varieties of +Caladenia were found today. The blue, yellow, pink, and brown-coloured +were all observed on these flowery plains. + +MOUNTS BAINBRIGGE AND PIERREPOINT. + +The sublime peaks of the Grampians began to appear above the trees to the +northward, and two lower hills of trap-rock arose, one to the south-west +the other north-west of our camp. That to the northward I named Mount +Bainbrigge, the other on the south Mount Pierrepoint. + +September 13. + +We broke up our camp early this morning and on reaching the highest +ground we discovered a large lake on our left: it was nearly circular, +about half a mile in circumference and surrounded by high firm banks from +which there was no visible outlet; I named it Lake Nivelle. At a few +miles beyond this lake the cheering sight of an open country extending to +the horizon first appeared through the trees; and we soon entered on +these fine downs where the gently undulating surface was firm under our +horses' feet and thickly clothed with excellent grass. + +MOUNT STURGEON. + +The cartwheels trundled merrily along, so that twelve miles were +accomplished soon after midday, and we encamped near the extreme southern +point of the Grampians, which I named Mount Sturgeon. The weather was +very wet but this troubled us the less as we had not known a day without +rain for several months. + +ASCEND MOUNT ABRUPT. + +September 14. + +I was most anxious to ascend Mount Abrupt, the first peak to the +northward of Mount Sturgeon, that I might close my survey of these +mountains and also reconnoitre the country before us. This morning clouds +hung upon the mountains however, and I could scarcely indulge a hope that +the weather would be favourable for the purposed survey; nevertheless I +bent my steps towards the mountain, having first set the carpenter to +work to make an additional width of felloe to the narrow wheels of one of +the carts, that it might pass with less difficulty over soft ground. We +soon came to a deep stream flowing not FROM but apparently TOWARDS the +mountains; its general course being westward. It was so deep that our +horses could scarcely ford it without swimming. Reeds grew about and the +bottom was soft, although two kinds of rock appeared in its banks. On the +right was trap, on the left the ferruginous sandstone of which all these +mountains consist. We soon entered on the barren and sandy but firm +ground at their base which, with its peculiar trees and shrubs, appeared +so different from the grassy plains. The banksia, the casuarina, and the +hardy xanthorrhoea reminded us of former toils on the opposite side of +these ranges. + +VIEW OF THE GRAMPIANS FROM THE SUMMIT. + +The weather turned out better than I had expected, and from the summit of +Mount Abrupt I beheld a truly sublime scene; the whole of the mountains, +quite clear of clouds, the grand outline of the more distant masses +blended with the sky, and forming a blue and purple background for the +numerous peaks of the range on which I stood, which consisted of sharp +cones and perpendicular cliffs foreshortened so as to form one grand +feature only of the extensive landscape, though composing a crescent +nearly 30 miles in extent: this range being but a branch from the still +more lofty masses of Mount William which crowned the whole. Towards the +coast there was less haze than usual, for I could distinguish Lady Julia +Percy's Isle which I had looked for in vain from Mount Napier, a point +twenty-four miles nearer to it. Here I could also trace the course of the +stream we had crossed that morning from its sources under the eastern +base of the mountains to a group of lower hills twenty-seven miles +distant to the westward; which hills, named by me Dundas group, formed a +most useful point in my trigonometrical survey. + +LAKES. + +Several extensive lakes appeared in the lowest parts adjacent; but what +interested me most after I had intersected the various summits was the +appearance of the country to the eastward, through which we were to find +our way home. There I saw a vast extent of open downs and could trace +their undulations to where they joined a range of mountains which, +judging by their outlines, appeared to be of easy access. Our straightest +way homewards passed just under a bluff head about fifty miles distant, +and so far I could easily perceive a most favourable line of route by +avoiding several large reedy lakes. Between that open country and these +lakes on one side and the coast on the other, a low woody ridge extended +eastward; and by first gaining that I hoped we should reach the open +ground in a direction which should enable us to leave all the lakes on +our left. + +The largest pieces of water I could see were Lake Linlithgow and its +companion in the open grassy plains between the range and Mount Napier, +as previously discovered from that hill. Several small and very +picturesque lakes, then as smooth as mirrors, adorned the valley +immediately to the westward of the hill I was upon. They were fringed +with luxuriant shrubs so that it was really painful to me to hurry, as I +was then compelled to do, past spots like these, involving in their +unexplored recesses so much of novelty amidst the most romantic scenery. +The rock consisted of a finely-grained sandstone as in other parts of +that mass. The Grampians of the south consist of three ranges covering a +surface which extends latitudinally 54 miles and longitudinally 20 miles. +The extreme eastern and highest summit is Mount William, in height 4,500 +feet above the sea. The northern point is Mount Zero, in latitude 36 +degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds South, and the southern is Mount Sturgeon, +in latitude 37 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds. I here again recognised the +outline of the most northern and elevated range extending from Mount +William to Mount Zero, but it was not so steep on the southern as on the +northern side. + +VICTORIA RANGE AND THE SERRA. + +From this hill two other ranges branch off to the south; the western +being marked Victoria range on the map, the eastern, the Serra, from its +serrated appearance, the broken outlines they present being highly +ornamental to the fine country around. On the northern slopes of the +range are some forests of fine timber but in general the higher summits +are bare and rocky. The chief source of the Glenelg is between the +Victoria range and the most northern, whence it soon sinks into a deep +glen or ravine, receiving numberless tributaries from other dells +intersecting the adjacent country. A considerable branch of the Glenelg +named by the natives the Wannon has its sources in the eastern and +southern rivulets from these mountains. The waters falling northward +enter the Wimmera, a different river whose estuary has not yet been +explored. Returning towards the camp, on approaching the stream, we met +with one of the most strikingly beautiful species of the common genus +Pultenaea; its narrow heath-like leaves were so closely covered with soft +silky hairs as to have quite a silvery appearance and the branches were +loaded with the heads of yellow and brown flowers now fully open. It +formed a new species of the Proliferous section, allied to Pultenaea +stipularis.* + +(*Footnote. P. mollis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis villosis, foliis +linearibus v. lineari-lanceolatis obtusis v. acuminatis subtus convexis +supra sulcatis sericeo-pilosis capitulis sessilibus longioribus, stipulis +ovato-linearibus acutis glabris badiis, calycibus villosis.) + +PARTY IMPEDED BY THE MUD AGAIN, AND A BROKEN AXLE. + +September 15. + +Pursuing an easterly course in order to avoid the Wannon we again found +the ground so soft and boggy that it was impossible to proceed; and after +advancing with incredible labour (under which one of the poor bullocks +fell to rise no more) barely four miles, I ordered the tents to be again +set up, but almost in despair for having performed during the previous +days several good journeys with perfect freedom from this species of +impediment, and having seen no indication of any change in the surface, I +had assured the men on descending from the mountains that the country +before us was favourable. We were nevertheless compelled to halt again at +this part by the breaking of the iron axle of one of the carts, for it +was necessary to endeavour to repair it before we could proceed. The +highest part of the woody ridge between us and the plains bore according +to my map due east, being distant 14 miles. + +MR. STAPYLTON EXAMINES THE COUNTRY BEFORE US. + +I gave that bearing to Mr. Stapylton who rode forward with Burnett to +ascertain how far we were from firmer ground, while I continued in my +tent occupied with the map of the mountains. It was dark before Mr. +Stapylton returned and brought the pleasing tidings that the soft ground +extended only to three or four miles from the camp, and that from beyond +that distance to the forest hills he had found the ground tolerably firm. + +September 16. + +The country which proved so soft was nevertheless stony and trap-rock +projected from every higher portion; yet such rocky eminences being +unconnected each was surrounded by softer ground. I was resolved to make +the very most of them: but an iron axle having been broken in our +struggles with the mud, the smith required more time to repair it, and I +therefore determined to proceed with but half the equipment drawn by ALL +the bullocks, leaving Burnett and the remaining portion of the party and +equipment to come on next day by the same means, as soon as the cattle +could be sent back. + +AT LENGTH GET THROUGH THE SOFT REGION. + +Having previously examined the ground and carefully traced out the +hardest parts connecting these rocky features, I led the way with the +carts and got through the first part of the journey much better than any +of us had expected. After passing over four miles of soft boggy ground we +came to a small running stream, the surface beyond it rising to a +somewhat steep ascent. On reaching that side I found myself on a good +firm ridge along which I continued for some time until we reached a +swampy lagoon, the banks of which were very firm and good. Leaving this +on our right we at length saw the darkly wooded hills of the ridge before +mentioned; and having travelled eleven miles we encamped near a small +lagoon on a spot where there was excellent grass; but it was still +necessary to send back the poor cattle with their drivers that evening to +where the other party still remained encamped. + +CATTLE QUITE EXHAUSTED. + +September 17. + +This day the rest of the party came up but the cattle seemed quite +exhausted. They had at length become so weak from the continued heavy +dragging through mud that it was obvious they could not proceed much +further until after they had enjoyed at least some weeks of repose. But +our provisions did not admit of this delay as the time had arrived when I +ought to have been at Sydney although still so far from it. + +DETERMINE TO LEAVE THEM IN A DEPOT TO REFRESH WHILE I PROCEED FORWARD. + +After mature deliberation we hit upon a plan which might as I thought +enable us to escape. The arrangement proposed was that I should go +forward with some of the freshest of the cattle drawing the light carts +and boat, with a month's provisions, and taking with me as many men as +would enable me to leave with those who should remain provisions for two +months. That the cattle should rest at the present camp two weeks and +then proceed while I, by travelling so far before them with so light a +party, could send back a supply of provisions and also the boat, to meet +this second party following in my track on the banks of the Murray. Thus +I could reach Sydney some weeks sooner, and also carry on my survey much +more conveniently; the cattle, which had been sinking almost daily, would +be thus refreshed sufficiently to be able to travel and the chance of the +whole party suffering from famine would be much diminished. Such was the +outline of the plan which our position and necessities suggested. + +September 18. + +This day was passed in making preparations for setting out tomorrow with +the light party as proposed. + +SPECIMENS OF NATURAL HISTORY. + +The catalogue of the objects of Natural History collected during the +journey included several birds and animals not hitherto mentioned in this +Journal. Amongst the most remarkable of these was the pig-footed animal +found on June 16. It measured about ten inches in length, had no tail, +and the forefeet resembled those of a pig. There was also the rat which +climbs trees like the opossum; the flat-tailed rat from the scrubs of the +Darling, where it builds an enormous nest of branches and boughs, so +interlaced as to be proof against any attacks of the native dog. The +unique specimen from the reedy country on the Murray of a very singular +animal much resembling the jerboa or desert rat of Persia; also a +rat-eared bat from the Lachlan. We had several new birds, but the most +admired of our ornithological discoveries was a white-winged superb +warbler from the junction of the Darling and the Murray, all the plumage +not white being of a bright blue colour; but of this we had obtained only +one specimen. I had not many opportunities of figuring the birds from +life, so very desirable in ornithological subjects. The eye of the eagle +and the rich crest of the cockatoo of the desert could not be preserved +in dead specimens, and were too fine to be omitted among the sketches I +endeavoured to snatch from nature.* Our herbarium had suffered from the +continued wet weather, especially in fording deep rivers; and this was +the more to be regretted as it contained many remarkable specimens. The +seeds and bulbous roots comprising varieties of Calostemma, Caladenia, +and Anguillaria, besides a number of large liliaceous bulbs, were however +preserved in a very good state.** + +(*Footnote. See Plates 23 and 36.) + +(**Footnote. The specimens of natural history were deposited in the +Museum at Sydney, according to my letter of instructions. The seeds, +amounting to 134 varieties, have been brought home and distributed, with +the obliging assistance of my friend Dr. Lindley, amongst the principal +gardens in this country. The bulbs, 62 in number, were planted soon after +my arrival in England, in the gardens of the Horticultural Society at +Chiswick. It was not without regret that I left at Sydney the single +specimens of the Chaeropus and Dipus, but I took drawings representing +each, of the natural size, and from these the figures in Plates 37 and 38 +have been very accurately reduced by Mr. Picken.) + +SITUATION OF DEPOT CAMP AT LAKE REPOSE. + +The camp in which Mr. Stapylton's party was to remain two weeks was in as +favourable a place for refreshing the cattle as could be found. The +ground undulated and was thickly clothed with fresh verdure; a grassy +swamp also, such as cattle delight in, extended northward into a lake of +fresh water which I named Lake Repose. The peaks of the Serra Range and +especially Mount Abrupt were landmarks which secured the men from even +the possibility of losing their way in looking after the cattle. + +Of the natives in our party it was arranged among themselves that Tommy +Came-first and The Widow, who most required a rest, having sore feet, +should remain with Mr. Stapylton and that Piper and Tommy Came-last +should accompany me. + + +CHAPTER 3.12. + +Parting of The Widow and her child. +We at length emerge on much firmer ground. +River Hopkins. +Mount Nicholson. +Cockajemmy salt lakes. +Natives ill disposed. +Singular weapon. +Treacherous concealment of a native. +Contents of a native's basket and store. +A tribe comes forward. +Fine country for colonisation. +Hollows in the downs. +Snakes numerous. +Native females. +Cattle tracks. +Ascend Mount Cole. +Enter on a granite country. +Many rivulets. +Mammeloid hills. +Lava, the surface rock. +Snakes eaten by the natives. +Ascend Mount Byng. +Rich grass. +Expedition pass. +Excursion towards Port Phillip. +Discover and cross the river Barnard. +Emus numerous and tame. +The river Campaspe. +Effects of a storm in the woods. +Ascend Mount Macedon. +Port Phillip dimly seen from it. +Return to the camp. +Continue our homeward journey. +Waterfall of Cobaw. +Singular country on the Barnard. +Cross the Campaspe. +An English razor found. +Ascend Mount Campbell. +Native beverage. +Valley of the Deegay. +Natives exchange baskets for axes. +They linger about our camp. +Effect of fireworks, etc. +Arrival at, and passage of, the Goulburn. +Fish caught. + +PARTING OF THE WIDOW AND HER CHILD. + +September 19. + +When about to set out I observed that The Widow Turandurey, who was to +remain with Mr. Stapylton's party and the carts, was marked with white +round the eyes (the natives' fashion of mourning) and that the face of +her child Ballandella was whitened also. This poor woman who had +cheerfully carried the child on her back when we offered to carry both on +the carts, and who was as careful and affectionate as any mother could +be, had at length determined to entrust to me the care of this infant. I +was gratified with such a proof of the mother's confidence in us, but I +should have been less willing to take charge of her child had I not been +aware of the wretched state of slavery to which the natives females are +doomed. I felt additional interest in this poor child from the +circumstance of her having suffered so much by the accident that befel +her while with our party, and which had not prevented her from now +preferring our mode of living so much that I believe the mother at length +despaired of being ever able to initiate her thoroughly in the mysteries +of killing and eating snakes, lizards, rats, and similar food. The widow +had been long enough with us to be sensible how much more her sex was +respected by civilised men than savages, and, as I conceived, it was with +such sentiments that she committed her child to my charge, under the +immediate care however of Piper's gin. + +WE AT LENGTH EMERGE ON MUCH FIRMER GROUND. + +For several miles we met with soft ground at the low connecting parts of +hills, but we at length gained the woody ridge so likely, as I had hoped, +to favour our progress. Its turnings were intricate but, by one or two +rivulets falling to my left and then by others falling to the right, I +learnt how to keep on the intermediate ground until at length, after a +journey of nine miles, we emerged from the woods on a firm open surface +and an extensive prospect was seen before us. Leaving the party to encamp +I rode to a round forest hill some miles to the eastward and obtained a +comprehensive view of the Grampians, and also of the country to the +northward which now appeared to be chiefly open; and I had little doubt +that we should find it more favourable for travelling upon. Eastward of +the forest hill the ground sank into a deep valley which turned round to +the south-east after receiving the drainage from some hollows in the open +country north of it. + +RIVER HOPKINS. + +This ravine received also the waters from the woody ridge now south of +us, where the numerous deep valleys were irrigated by streams arising in +swamps; the whole probably forming the head of some more important stream +flowing to the coast and which I here named the river Hopkins. This +eminence, which I distinguished as Mount Stavely, consisted apparently of +decomposed clay-stone or felspar, having a tendency to divide naturally +into regular prisms. A very beautiful and singular-looking shrub appeared +on the hills we crossed this day, and also on the open ground where +indeed it was most abundant. It was a species of acacia, the leaves +adhering edgeways to thorny branches; many of these shrubs were in +blossom, the flowers being yellow and as large and round as marbles, and +those growing very thickly, they gave to the branches the appearance of +garlands or festoons, the effect altogether being extremely graceful and +singular. We found also a beautiful new species of acacia looking like a +broad-leaved variety of A. armata. The branches were singularly protected +by short spiny forks which proved to be the hardened permanent stipules.* + +(*Footnote. A. furcifera, Lindley manuscripts; stipulis spinescentibus +persistentibus, phyllodiis obliquis ovato-oblongis mucronatis uninerviis +hinc venosis glabris, ramis hirsutis, capitulis solitariis foliis +brevioribus.) + +With this occurred another species with hard stiff scymetar-shaped leaves +and a profusion of balls of browner yellow flowers which had been +previously observed (on June 22) in a more vigorous condition.* By +observations from this hill I made the height of Mount William about +4,500 feet above the sea. + +(*Footnote. This was most nearly related to A. hispidula, but the leaves +were quite smooth and much smaller. A. acinacea, Lindley manuscripts; +glaberrima; ramulis alato-angulatis rigidis, phyllodiis brevibus +acinaciformibus mucronatis 1-nerviis et enerviis: margine superiore infra +medium glanduloso, capitulis geminis axillaribus, pedunculis phyllodiorum +longitudine.) + +September 20. + +Our wheels now rolled lightly over fine grassy downs and our faces were +turned towards distant home. Before us arose a low, thinly-wooded hill, +which at first bounded our view towards the north, and afterwards proved +to be the feature connecting the low woody ridge near our last camp with +the hills still further to the northward. On reaching the summit I +perceived that a considerable extent of open country intervened, being +watered in the lower parts by several lakes. + +MOUNT NICHOLSON. COCKAJEMMY SALT LAKES. + +Descending northward along an offset of the same hills which had led us +in that direction and which I now named Mount Nicholson, I observed that +the lakes occurred at intervals in a valley apparently falling from the +westward in which no stream appeared, although it was shut in by well +escarped rocky banks. We encamped after a journey of ten miles at a point +where another valley from the north joined the above, and I was somewhat +surprised to find after encamping that the water in the adjacent lakes +was extremely salt. No connection existed by means of any channel between +them although they formed together a chain of lagoons in the bed of a +deep and well defined valley. On the contrary the soil was particularly +solid and firm between them, and the margin of the most eastern of these +lakes was separated by a high bank from the bed of another valley where a +running stream of pure water flowed over a broad and swampy bed fifteen +feet higher than the adjacent valley containing the stagnant salt lakes. +The rock enclosing these singular valleys was basalt, and from these +peculiarities, considered with reference to the ancient volcano and the +dip of a mountain strata to the north-west, it was evident that some +upheaving or subsidence had materially altered the levels of the original +surface. + +I could find no brine-springs in or about these lakes, and as it was +evident that a stream had once washed the bed of the ravine now occupied +by them, I may leave the solution of the problem to geologists. + +(*Footnote. Having submitted specimens of the water from these and other +salt lakes of the interior to my friend Professor Faraday, I have been +favoured with the following particulars respecting their contents: "All +of them are solutions of common salt much surpassing the ocean or even +the Mediterranean in the quantity of salt dissolved. Besides the common +salt there are present (in comparatively small quantity) portions of +sulphates and muriates of lime and magnesia: the waters are neutral and +except in strength very much resemble those of the ocean. That labelled +Greenhill Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1049.4 and three +measured ounces gave on evaporation 97 grains of dry salts. That labelled +Mitre Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1038.6, and three measured +ounces of it yielded 77 grains of dry saline matter. The water labelled +Cockajemmy Lake Camp 20th September had a specific gravity of 1055.3 and +the amount of dry salts from three measured ounces was 113 grains.") + +NATIVES ILL DISPOSED. + +As we proceeded over the open ground before we reached the spot where we +finally encamped several natives appeared at a great distance in a valley +eastward of Mount Nicholson, and Piper went towards them supported by +Brown whom I sent after him on horseback. They proved to be three or four +gins only, but Piper continued to pursue them to the top of a hill, when +a number of men armed with spears suddenly started from behind trees and +were running furiously towards Piper when Brown rode up. On presenting +his pistol they came to a full stop, thereby showing that they had some +idea of firearms, although they refused to answer Piper's questions or to +remain longer. In the evening, four of them approaching our camp, Piper +went forward with Burnett to meet them. They advanced to the tents +apparently without fear, and I obtained from them the names of various +localities. On being questioned respecting Cadong, they told us that all +these waters ran into it, and pointed to the south-east, saying that I +should by-and-bye see it. When I found we could obtain no more +information I presented the most intelligent of them with a tomahawk, on +which they went slowly away, repeatedly turning round towards us and +saying something which, according to Piper, had reference to their tribe +coming again and dancing a corrobory, a proposal these savage tribes +often make and which the traveller who knows them well will think it +better to discourage. + +SINGULAR WEAPON. + +These men carried a singular kind of malga, of a construction different +from any Piper had ever seen. The malga is a weapon usually made in the +form of Figure 2, but that with which these natives were provided +somewhat resembled a pick-axe with one half broken off, and was of the +form of Figure 1, being made so as to be thickest at the angle. The blow +of such a formidable weapon could not be easily parried from the +uncertainty whether it would be aimed with the thick heavy corner or the +sharp point. All the weapons of this singular race are peculiar and this +one was not the least remarkable. + +TREACHEROUS CONCEALMENT OF A NATIVE. + +At dusk while Woods was looking after the cattle near the camp he +surprised a native concealed behind a small bush, who did not make his +escape until Woods was within two yards of him. + +CONTENTS OF A NATIVE'S BASKET AND STORE. + +How many more had been about we could not ascertain, but next morning we +found near the spot one of the bags usually carried by gins and +containing the following samples of their daily food: three snakes; three +rats; about 2 pounds of small fish, like white bait; crayfish; and a +quantity of the small root of the cichoraceous plant tao, usually found +growing on the plains with a bright yellow flower. There were also in the +bag various bodkins and colouring stones, and two mogos or stone hatchets +(Figure 5). It seemed that our civility had as usual inspired these +savages with a desire to beat our brains out while asleep, and we were +thankful that in effecting their cowardly designs they had been once more +unsuccessful. + +A TRIBE COMES FORWARD. + +September 21. + +Early in the morning a tribe of about forty were seen advancing toward +our camp preceded by the four men who had been previously there. Having +determined that they should not approach us again, I made Piper advance +to them and inquire what they wanted last night behind the bush, pointing +at the same time to the spot. They returned no answer to this question, +but continued to come forward until I ordered a burning bush to be waved +at them and, when they came to a stand without answering Piper's +question, I ordered a party of our men to charge them, whereupon they all +scampered off. We saw them upon our encamping ground after we had +proceeded about two miles, but they did not attempt to follow us. Whether +they would find a letter which I had buried there for Mr. Stapylton or +not, we could only hope to discover after that gentleman's return to the +colony. It was understood between us that, where a cross was cut in the +turf where my tent had stood, he would find a note under the centre of +the cross. This I buried by merely pushing a stick into the earth and +dropping into the hole thus made the note twisted up like a cigar. The +letter was written chiefly to caution him about these natives. Basalt +appeared in the sides of the ravine which contained the salt lakes and in +equal abundance and of the same quality in that which enclosed the living +stream where it lay in blocks forming small cliffs. Finding at length a +favourable place for crossing this stream, we traversed the ravine and +resumed our direct course towards the southern extremity of a distant +range named Mammala by the natives, the bluff head previously seen from +Mount Abrupt (see above). + +FINE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. + +We now travelled over a country quite open, slightly undulating, and well +covered with grass. To the westward the noble outline of the Grampians +terminated a view extending over vast plains fringed with forests and +embellished with lakes. To the northward appeared other more +accessible-looking hills, some being slightly wooded, some green and +quite clear to their summits, long grassy vales and ridges intervening: +while to the eastward the open plain extended as far as the eye could +reach. Our way lay between distant ranges which in that direction mingled +with the clouds. Thus I had both the low country, which was without +timber, and the well wooded hills within reach, and might choose either +for our route, according to the state of the ground, weather, etc. +Certainly a land more favourable for colonisation could not be found. +Flocks might be turned out upon its hills, or the plough at once set to +work in the plains. No primeval forests required to be first rooted out, +although there was enough of wood for all purposes of utility and as much +also for embellishment as even a painter could wish. + +HOLLOWS IN THE DOWNS. + +One feature peculiar to that country appeared on these open downs: it +consisted of hollows which, being usually surrounded by a line of yarra +gumtrees or whitebark eucalyptus, seemed at a distance to contain lakes, +but instead of water I found only blocks of vesicular trap, consisting +apparently of granular felspar, and hornblende rock also appeared in the +banks enclosing them. Some of these hollows were of a winding character, +as if they were the remains of ancient watercourses; but if ever currents +flowed there the surface must have undergone considerable alteration +since, for the downs where these hollows appeared were elevated at least +900 feet above the sea and surrounded on all sides by lower ground. There +was an appearance of moisture among the rocks in some of these +depressions; and whether by digging a few feet permanent wells might be +made may be a question worth attention when colonisation extends to that +country. We found on other parts of this open ground large blocks +composed of irregular concretions of ironstone, covered with a thin +coating of compact brown haematite. The purple-ringed Anguillaria dioica, +first seen on Pyramid Hill, again appeared here; and in many places the +ground was quite yellow with the flowers of the cichoraceous plant tao +whose root, small as it is, constitutes the food of the native women and +children. The cattle are very fond of the leaves of this plant and seemed +to thrive upon it. We also found a new bulbine with a delicate yellow +flower being perfectly distinct from both the species described by +Brown.* + +(*Footnote. This has been planted with the others in the Horticultural +Gardens at Chiswick and was the first to flower there, a head having been +sent to me on the 8th May last by Dr. Lindley who describes it thus: +Bulbine suavis; radice fasciculata, foliis longissimis attenuatis +semiteretibus basi canaliculatis glaucis, racemo erecto multifloro, +petalis oblongis subundulatis sepalis duplo latioribus, staminibus +ascendentibus, filamentis apice stuposis petalinis patentibus sepalinis +erectis apice incurvis brevioribus.) + +SNAKES NUMEROUS. + +The genial warmth of spring had begun to show its influence on these +plants and also brought the snakes from their holes, for on this day in +particular it was ascertained that twenty-two had been killed by the +party. These were all of that species not venomous I believe which the +natives eat. We encamped near a small clump of trees for the sake of +firewood. + +September 22. + +This day's journey lay chiefly across open downs with wooded hills +occasionally to the left. On the southward these downs extended to the +horizon: and several isolated hills at great distances, apparently of +trap, presented an outline like the volcanic Mount Napier. All the +various small rivulets we traversed in our line of route seemed to flow +in that direction. Having crossed three of these we encamped on the right +bank of the fourth. The hills on our left were of granite and as +different as possible in appearance from the mountains to the westward +which were all of red sandstone. In the afternoon there was a +thunderstorm but the sky became again perfectly serene in the evening. + +September 23. + +This morning a thick fog hung over us; but having well reconnoitred the +country beyond I knew that I might travel in a straight line over open +ground for several miles. When the fog arose some finely wooded hills +appeared on our right; but after advancing seven miles on good firm earth +we again came upon very soft ground which obliged us to turn and wind and +pick our way wherever the surface seemed most likely to bear us. + +NATIVE FEMALES. + +The fog was succeeded by a fine warm day, and as we proceeded we saw two +gins and their children at work separately on a swampy meadow; and, quick +as the sight of these natives is, we had travelled long within view +before they observed us. They were spread over the field much in the +manner in which emus and kangaroos feed on plains, and we observed them +digging in the ground for roots. All carried bags and when Piper went +towards them they ran with great speed across the vast open plains to the +southward. + +CATTLE TRACKS. + +This day we perceived the fresh track of several bullocks, a very +extraordinary circumstance in that situation. The beautiful +yellow-wreathed acacia was not to be seen after we quitted the open +country. The ground was becoming almost hopelessly soft, when we reached +a small run of water from the hills and, by keeping along its bank, we +had the good fortune to reach an extremity of the range where the solid +granite was as welcome to our feet as a dry beach is to shipwrecked +seamen. + +ASCEND MOUNT COLE. + +We had at length arrived under Mammala, the bluff hill which had been my +landmark from the time I left Mr. Stapylton. I found this was the +southern extremity of a lofty range which I lost no time in ascending +after I had fixed on a spot for the camp. It consisted of huge blocks of +granite,* and was crowned with such lofty timber that I could only catch +occasional peeps of the surrounding country: nevertheless I obtained, by +moving about among the trees with my pocket sextant, almost all the +angles I wanted; and I thus connected the survey of the region I was +leaving with that I was about to enter. My first view over this eastern +country was extensive, and when I at length descended to a projecting +rock I found the prospect extremely promising, the land being variegated +with open plains and strips of forest, and studded with smooth green +hills of the most beautiful forms. In the extreme distance a range much +resembling that on which I stood declined at its southern extremity in +the same manner as this did, and thus left me a passage precisely in the +most direct line of route homewards. + +(*Footnote. Consisting of pink felspar, white quartz and silvery mica.) + +ENTER ON A GRANITE COUNTRY. + +The carts had still however to cross the range at which we had arrived +and which, as I perceived here, not only extended southward but also +broke into bold ravines on the eastern side, being connected with some +noble hills, or rather mountains, all grassy to their summits, thinly +wooded and consisting wholly of granite. They resembled very much some +hills of the lower Pyrenees in Spain, only that they were more grassy and +less acclivitous, and I named this hill Mount Cole. To the southward the +sea-haze dimmed the horizon: but I perceived the eastern margin of a +large piece of water bearing south-south-east, and which I supposed might +be Cadong. It was sheltered on the south-east by elevated ground +apparently very distant, but no high range appeared between us and that +inlet of the sea. On the contrary the heights extending southward from +this summit, being connected with the highest and most southern hills +visible from it, seemed to be the only high land or separation of the +waters falling north and south. With such a country before us I bade +adieu to swamps and returned well pleased to the camp, being guided to it +only by the gushing torrent, for I had remained on the hill as long as +daylight lasted. + +MANY RIVULETS. + +September 24. + +The morning was rainy and our way having to be traced up the ravines and +round the hills was very tortuous for the first three miles. We then +reached the dividing part of the range and descended immediately after +into valleys of a less intricate character. Having passed over the swampy +bed of a rivulet flowing southward, and having also crossed several fine +bold ridges with good streams between them, we at length encamped near a +round hill which, being clear on the summit, was therefore a favourable +station for the theodolite. This hill also consisted of granite and +commanded an open and extensive view over the country to the eastward. + +September 25. + +One bold range of forest land appeared before us and after crossing it we +passed over several rivulets falling northward, then over a ridge of +trappean conglomerate with embedded quartz pebbles, and descended into a +valley of the finest description. Grassy hills clear of timber appeared +beyond a stream also flowing northward. These hills consisted of old +vesicular lava. We next entered a forest of very large trees of ironbark +eucalyptus, and we finally encamped in a grassy valley in the midst of +this forest. + +September 26. + +We first crossed more hills of the trappean conglomerate on which grew +ironbark eucalypti and box. The rock consisted of a base of compact +felspar with embedded grains of quartz, giving to some parts the +character of conglomerate, and there were also embedded crystals of +common felspar. By diverging a little to the right we entered upon an +open tract of the most favourable aspect, stretching away to the +south-west among similar hills until they were lost in the extreme +distance. The whole surface was green as an emerald and on our right for +some miles ran a fine rivulet between steep grassy banks and over a bed +of trap-rock. + +MAMMELOID HILLS. + +At length this stream was joined by two others coming through similar +grassy valleys from the south; and when we approached two lofty smooth +round hills, green to their summits, the united streams flowed in an open +dell which our carts rolled through without meeting any impediment. I +ascended the most western of these hills as it was a point which I had +observed from various distant stations, and I enjoyed such a charming +view eastward from the summit as can but seldom fall to the lot of the +explorers of new countries. The surface presented the forms of pristine +beauty clothed in the hues of spring; and the shining verdure of these +smooth and symmetrical hills was relieved by the darker hues of the wood +with which they were interlaced; which exhibited every variety of tint, +from a dark brown in the foreground to a light blue in extreme distance. + +LAVA, THE SURFACE ROCK. + +The hills consisted entirely of lava and I named them from their peculiar +shape the Mammeloid hills, and the station on which I stood Mount +Greenock. In travelling through this Eden no road was necessary, nor any +ingenuity in conducting wheel-carriages wherever we chose. The beautiful +little terrestrial orchidaceous plants Caladenia dilatata and Diuris +aurea were already in full bloom; and we also found on the plains this +day a most curious little bush resembling a heath in foliage, but with +solitary polypetalous flowers resembling those of Sollya.* When we had +completed fourteen miles we encamped on the edge of an open plain and +near a small rivulet, the opposite bank consisting of grassy forest land. + +(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus +Campylanthera of Hooker, or Pronaya of Baron Hugel, of which two species +were found by the latter botanist and the late Mr. Frazer at Swan River. +Campylanthera ericoides, Lindley manuscripts; erecta, fruticosa, glabra, +foliis oblongo-cuneatis mucronatis margine revolutis, floribus solitariis +terminalibus erectis, antheris subrotundis.) + +ABORIGINAL IMITATIONS. + +September 27. + +I was surprised to hear the voice of a Scotchwoman in the camp this +morning. The peculiar accent and rapid utterance could not be mistaken as +I thought, and I called to inquire who the stranger was, when I +ascertained that it was only Tommy Came-last who was imitating a Scotch +female who, as I then learnt, was at Portland Bay and had been very kind +to Tommy. The imitation was ridiculously true through all the modulations +of that peculiar accent although, strange to say, without the +pronunciation of a single intelligible word. The talent of the aborigines +for imitation seems a peculiar trait in their character. I was informed +that The Widow could also amuse the men occasionally by enacting their +leader, taking angles, drawing from nature, etc. + +While the party went forward over the open plains with Mr. Stapylton I +ascended a smooth round hill, distant about a mile to the southward of +our camp, from which I could with ease continue my survey by means of +hills on all sides, the highest of them being to the southward. I could +trace the rivulets flowing northward into one or two principal channels, +near several masses of mountain: these channels and ranges being probably +connected with those crossed by us on our route from the Murray. In these +bare hills and on the open grassy plains, old vesicular lava abounded; +small loose elongated fragments lay on the round hills, having a red +scorified appearance and being also so cellular as to be nearly as light +as pumice. We this day crossed several fine running streams and forests +of box and bluegum growing on ridges of trappean conglomerate. At length +we entered on a very level and extensive flat, exceedingly green and +resembling an English park. It was bounded on the east by a small river +flowing to the north-west (probably the Loddon) and abrupt but grassy +slopes arose beyond its right bank. After crossing this stream we +encamped, having travelled nearly fifteen miles in one straight line +bearing 60 1/2 degrees east of north. This tract was rather of a +different character from that of the fine country of which we had +previously seen so much, and we saw for the first time the Discaria +australis, a remarkable green leafless spiny bush and resembling in a +most striking manner the Colletias of Chili. Sheltered on every side by +woods or higher ground, the spring seemed more advanced there than +elsewhere, and our hard wrought cattle well deserved to be the first to +browse on that verdant plain. The stream in its course downwards vanished +amongst grassy hills to water a country apparently of the most +interesting and valuable character. + +September 28. + +The steep banks beyond the river consisted of clay-slate having under it +a conglomerate containing fragments of quartz cemented by compact +haematite. + +SNAKES EATEN BY THE NATIVES. + +The day was hot and we killed several large snakes of the species eaten +by the natives. I observed that our guides looked at the colour of the +belly when in any doubt about the sort they preferred; these were +white-bellied, whereas the belly of a very fierce one with a large head, +of which Piper and the others seemed much afraid, was yellow. On cutting +this snake open two young quails were found within: one of them not being +quite dead. The country we crossed during the early part of the day was +at least as fine as that we had left. We passed alternately through +strips of forest and over open flats well watered, the streams flowing +southward; and at nine miles we crossed a large stream also flowing in +that direction: all these being evidently tributaries to that on which we +had been encamped. Beyond the greater stream, where we last crossed it, +the country presented more of the mountain character, but good strong +grass grew among the trees, which consisted of box and lofty bluegum. +After making out upwards of eleven miles, we encamped in a valley where +water lodged in holes and where we found also abundance of grass. We were +fast approaching those summits which had guided me in my route from Mount +Cole, then more than fifty miles behind us. Like that mountain these +heights also belonged to a lofty range, and like it were beside a very +low part of it, through which I hoped to effect a passage. Leaving the +party to encamp I proceeded forward in search of the hill I had so long +seen before me, and I found that the hills immediately beyond our camp +were part of the dividing range and broken into deep ravines on the +eastern side. Pursuing the connection between them and the still higher +summits on the north-east, I came at length upon an open valley enclosed +by hills very lightly wooded. This change was evidently owing to a +difference in the rock which was a fine-grained granite, whereas the +hills we had recently crossed belonged chiefly to the volcanic class of +rocks, with the exception of the range I had traversed that evening in my +way from the camp, which consisted of ferruginous sandstone. With the +change of rock a difference was also obvious in the shape of the hills, +the quantity and quality of the water, and the character of the trees. +The hills presented a bold sweeping outline and were no longer broken by +sharp-edged strata but crowned with large round masses of rock. Running +water was gushing from every hollow in much greater abundance than +elsewhere; and lastly the timber, which on the other ranges consisted +chiefly of ironbark and stringybark, now presented the shining bark of +the bluegum or yarra and the grey hue of the box. The Anthisteria +australis, a grass which seems to delight in a granitic soil, also +appeared in great abundance, and we also found the aromatic tea, Tasmania +aromatica, which represents in New Holland the winter's bark of the +southern extremity of South America. The leaves and bark of this tree +have a hot biting cinnamon-like taste on which account it is vulgarly +called the pepper-tree. + +ASCEND MOUNT BYNG. + +I could ride with ease to the summit of the friendly hill that I had seen +from afar, and found it but thinly wooded so that I could take my angles +around the horizon without difficulty. Again reminded by the similar +aspect this region presented of the lower Pyrenees and the pass of +Orbaicetta, I named the summit Mount Byng. + +RICH GRASS. + +A country fully as promising as the fine region we had left was embraced +in my view from that point. I perceived long patches of open plain +interspersed with forest hills and low woody ranges, among which I could +trace out a good line of route for another fifty miles homewards. The +highest of the mountains lay to the south and evidently belonged to the +coast range, if it might be so called; and on that side a lofty mass +arose above the rest and promised a view towards the sea, that height +being distant from the hill on which I stood about thirty miles. A broad +chain of woody hills connected the coast range with Mount Byng, and I +could trace the general course of several important streams through the +country to the east of it. Northward I saw a little of the interior +plains and the points where the various ranges terminated upon them. The +sun was setting when I left Mount Byng but I depended on one of our +natives, Tommy Came-last, who was then with me, for finding our way to +the camp; and who on such occasions could trace my steps backwards with +wonderful facility by day or night. + +EXPEDITION PASS. + +September 29. + +The range before us was certainly rather formidable for the passage of +carts, but home lay beyond it, while delay and famine were synonymous +terms with us at that time. By following up the valley in which we had +encamped I found early on this morning an easy way through which the +carts might gain the lowest part of the range. Having conducted them to +this point without any other inconvenience besides the overturning of one +cart (from bad driving) we descended along the hollow of a ravine after +making it passable by throwing some rocks into the narrow part near its +head. The ravine at length opened, as I had expected, into a grassy +valley with a fine rivulet flowing through it, and from this valley we +debouched into the still more open granitic country at the foot of Mount +Byng. The pass thus auspiciously discovered and opened, over a neck +apparently the very lowest of the whole range, I named Expedition-pass, +confident that such a line of communication between the southern coast +and Sydney must, in the course of time, become a very considerable +thoroughfare. The change of soil however introduced us to the old +difficulty from which we had been happily relieved for some time, for we +came once more upon rotten and boggy ground. We met with this unexpected +impediment in an open-looking flat near a rivulet I was about to cross, +when I found the surface so extremely soft and yielding that from the +extreme resistance a bolt of the boat-carriage gave way, a circumstance +which obliged us immediately to encamp although we had travelled only +four miles. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS PORT PHILLIP. + +September 30. + +Compelled thus to await the repair of the boat-carriage I determined to +make an excursion to the lofty mountain mass which appeared about thirty +miles to the southward, in order that I might connect my survey with Port +Phillip, which I hoped to see thence. The horses were not found as soon +as they were required, but when we at last got upon their backs we were +therefore less disposed to spare them. + +DISCOVER AND CROSS THE RIVER BARNARD. + +We crossed some soft hollows during the first few miles, and then arrived +on the banks of a small and deep river with reeds on its borders, and +containing many broad and deep reaches. It was full and flowed, but not +rapidly, towards the north-east, and it was not until we had continued +along the left bank of this stream for a considerable way upwards that we +found a rapid where we could cross without swimming. The left bank was of +bold acclivity but grassy and clear of timber, being very level on the +summit; and I found it consisted of trap-rock of the same vesicular +character which I had observed in so many other parts of this southern +region. Beyond the river (which I then named the Barnard) we first +encountered a hilly country from which we emerged rather unexpectedly; +for after crossing a small rivulet flowing in a deep and grassy dell +where trap-rock again appeared, and ascending the opposite slope, we +found that the summit consisted of an open level country of the finest +description. It was covered with the best kind of grass and the immediate +object of our ride, the mountain, was now visible beyond these rich +plains. Some fine forest-hills arose in various directions to the right +and left, and indeed I never saw a more pleasing or promising portion of +territory. The rich open ground across which we rode was not without +slight undulations; and when we had traversed about four miles of it we +came quite unawares to a full and flowing stream, nearly on a level with +its grassy banks; the bottom being so sound that we forded it without the +least difficulty. + +EMUS NUMEROUS AND TAME. + +Emus were very numerous on the downs and their curiosity brought them to +stare at our horses, apparently unconscious of the presence of the biped +on their backs whom both birds and beasts seem instinctively to avoid. In +one flock I counted twenty-nine emus, and so near did they come to us +that, having no rifle with me, I was tempted to discharge even my pistol +at one, although without effect. Kangaroos were equally numerous. Having +proceeded three miles beyond the stream we came to another flowing to the +westward between some very deep ponds, and it was probably a tributary to +the first. + +THE RIVER CAMPASPE. + +At twenty-two miles from the camp, on descending from some finely +undulating open ground, we arrived at a stream flowing westward, which I +judged to be also a branch of that we had first crossed. Its bed +consisted of granitic rocks and on the left bank I found trap. We had +this stream afterwards in sight on our left until, at two miles further, +we again crossed it and entered a wood of eucalyptus, being then only +five miles distant from the mountain, and we subsequently found that this +wood extended to its base. + +EFFECTS OF A STORM IN THE WOODS. + +The effects of some violent hurricane from the north were visible under +every tree, the earth being covered with broken branches, some of which +were more than a foot in diameter; the withering leaves remained upon +them, and I remarked that no whole trees had been blown down, although +almost all had lost their principal limbs and not a few had been reduced +to bare poles. The havoc which the storm had made gave an unusual aspect +to the whole of the forest land, so universally was it covered with +withering branches. Whether this region is subject to frequent +visitations of a like nature I could not of course then ascertain; but I +perceived that many of the trees had lost some of their top limbs at a +much earlier period in a similar manner. Neither had this been but a +partial tempest, for to the very base of the mountain the same effects +were visible. The trees on its side were of a much grander character than +those in the forest, and consisted principally of black-butt and bluegum +eucalypti measuring from six to eight feet in diameter. The rock was +syenite, so weathered as to resemble sandstone. + +ASCEND MOUNT MACEDON. + +I ascended without having been obliged to alight from my horse, and I +found that the summit was very spacious, being covered towards the south +with tree-ferns, and the musk-plant grew in great luxuriance. I saw also +many other plants found at the Illawarra, on the eastern coast of the +colony of New South Wales. The summit was full of wombat holes and, +unlike that side by which I had ascended, it was covered with the dead +trunks of enormous trees in all stages of decay. + +PORT PHILLIP DIMLY SEEN FROM IT. + +I had two important objects in view in ascending this hill; one being to +determine its position trigonometrically as a point likely to be seen +from the country to which I was going, where it might be useful to me in +fixing other points; the other being to obtain a view of Port Phillip, +and thus to connect my survey with that harbour. But the tree-fern, +musk-plant, brush, and lofty timber together shut us up for a long time +from any prospect of the low country to the southward, and it was not +until I had nearly exhausted a fine sunny afternoon in wandering round +the broad summit that I could distinguish and recognise some of the hills +to the westward; and when I at length obtained a glimpse of the country +towards the coast the features of the earth could scarcely be +distinguished from the sky or sea, although one dark point looked more +like a cape than a cloud and seemed to remain steady. With my glass I +perceived that water lay inside of that cape and that low plains extended +northward from the water. I next discovered a hilly point outside of the +cape or towards the sea; and on descending the hill to where the trees +grew less thickly I obtained an uninterrupted view of the whole piece of +water. As the sun went down the distant horizon became clearer towards +the coast and I intersected at length the two capes; also one at the head +of the bay and several detached hills. I perceived distinctly the course +of the Exe and Arundell rivers and a line of mangrove trees along the low +shore. In short I at length recognised Port Phillip and the intervening +country around it at a distance afterwards ascertained to be upwards of +fifty miles from Indented Head, which proved to be the first cape I had +seen; that outside (at A) being Point Nepean on the east side of the +entrance to this bay. At that vast distance I could trace no signs of +life about this harbour. No stockyards, cattle, nor even smoke, although +at the highest northern point of the bay I saw a mass of white objects +which might have been either tents or vessels. I perceived a white speck, +which I took for breakers or white sand, on the projecting point of the +north-eastern shore. (B.) On that day nine years exactly I first beheld +the heads of Port Jackson, a rather singular coincidence. Thus the +mountain on which I stood became an important point in my survey, and I +gave it the name of Mount Macedon, with reference to that of Port +Phillip.* It had been long dark before I reached the base of the mountain +and picked out a dry bit of turf on which to lie down for the night. + +(*Footnote. Geboor is the native name of this hill, as since ascertained +by my friend Captain King, and it is a much better one, having fewer +letters and being aboriginal.) + +October 1. + +The morning was cloudy with drizzling rain, a circumstance which +prevented me from re-ascending a naked rock on the north-eastern summit +to extend my observations over the country we were about to traverse. I +found decomposed gneiss at the base of this hill. + +RETURN TO THE CAMP. + +While returning to the camp we saw great numbers of kangaroos but could +not add to our stock of provisions, having neither dogs nor a rifle with +us. I found on my arrival at the camp that the boat-carriage having been +made once more serviceable, the party was quite ready to move forward in +the morning. + +October 2. + +The day being Sunday and the weather unfavourable, as it rained heavily, +the barometer having also fallen more than half an inch, I made it a day +of rest for the benefit of our jaded horses, notwithstanding our own +short rations. I was also very desirous to complete some work on the map. + +CONTINUE OUR HOMEWARD JOURNEY. + +October 3. + +A clear morning: I buried another letter for Mr. Stapylton, informing him +how he might best avoid the mud; and then we proceeded along the highest +points of the ground, thus keeping clear of that which was boggy, and we +found the surface to improve much in this respect as we receded from the +base of the higher range. We crossed some fine valleys, each watered by a +running stream; and all the hills consisted of granite. The various +rivulets we crossed fell southwards into one we had seen in a valley on +our right which continued from the base of the mountain, and this rivulet +at length entered a still deeper valley in which there was very little +wood, the hills on the opposite side being uncommonly level at the top. +In this valley a fine stream ran northward, being undoubtedly the +Barnard, or first river crossed by us on our way to Mount Macedon. We +succeeded in finding a ford, but although it was deep a greater +difficulty to be overcome was the descent of our carts to it, so abrupt +and steep-sided was the ravine in which the Barnard flowed. + +WATERFALL OF COBAW. + +When we had effected at length a descent and a passage across, having +also established our camp beyond this stream, I rode up the bank towards +a noise of falling water, and thus came to a very fine cascade of upwards +of sixty feet. The river indeed fell more than double that height, but in +the lower part the water escaped unseen, flowing amongst large blocks of +granite. I had visited several waterfalls in Scotland, but this was +certainly the most picturesque I had witnessed; although the effect was +not so much in the body of water falling, or the loud noise, as in the +bold character of the rocks over and amongst which it fell. Their colour +and shape were harmonized into a more complete scene than nature usually +presents, resembling the finished subject of an artist, foreground and +all. The prevailing hues were light red and purple-grey, the rocks being +finely interlaced with a small-leaved creeper of the brightest green. A +dark-coloured moss, which presents a warm green in the sun, covered the +lower masses and relieved and supported the brighter hues, while a +brilliant iris shone steadily in the spray, and blended into perfect +harmony the lighter hues of the higher rocks and the whiteness of the +torrent rushing over them. The banks of this stream were of so bold a +character that in all probability other picturesque scenery, perhaps +finer than this, may yet be found upon it. + +SINGULAR COUNTRY ON THE BARNARD. + +The geological character of the adjacent country was sufficiently +striking--the left bank consisted of undulating hills and bold rocks of +granite; the right of trap-rock in the higher part, and presented a +remarkable contrast to the other, from the perfectly level character of +the summits of adjacent hills, as if the whole had been once in a fluid +state. Some of these table hills were separated by dry grassy vales of +excellent soil. Further back the rugged crests of a wooded range of a +different formation rendered the level character of this ancient lava or +vesicular trap more obvious. The hills behind consisted in the higher +parts of a felspathic conglomerate and clay-slate dipping to the +eastward. + +The country looked fine to the south and also northward, or down the +stream. By keeping along a winding valley we ascended without +inconvenience between these curiously scarped trap hills. + +October 5. + +We found the trees on the low range much broken like those near Mount +Macedon, and the ground strewed here also with withering boughs, the +result apparently of the same storm, the destructive effects of which we +had noticed on the trees there. + +CROSS THE CAMPASPE. + +Beyond the clay-stone range we entered on another open and grassy tract +where trap-rock again appeared; and at four miles and a half we descended +into a grassy ravine in which we found another river flowing northward; +this being apparently the second river crossed in my ride to Mount +Macedon and which I now named the Campaspe. It was difficult to find in +this stream any fordable place where the banks could be approached by the +carts, one side or the other always proving too steep; but at length we +succeeded. Strata of clay-slate inclined almost perpendicularly to the +horizon projected at parts of the left bank, and over this clay-slate I +found trap-rock. Beyond the Campaspe we crossed plains and much open +land. At length on descending a little from a sort of table the trap was +no longer to be seen, and we entered a wood where sandstone seemed to +predominate, the strata dipping to the south-west. Fine grassy slopes +extended through this forest, which was also so open that we could see +each way for several miles. A rich variety of yellow flowers adorned the +verdure among which the Caladenia and Diuris aurea, and also a large +white Anguillaria, were very abundant. + +AN ENGLISH RAZOR FOUND. + +Piper found at an old native encampment a razor, and I had the +satisfaction of reading on the blade the words "Old English" in this wild +region, still so remote from civilised man's dominion! In the afternoon a +remarkable change took place in the weather, for we had rain with an +easterly wind, the thermometer being at 68 degrees. We encamped on a +chain of deep ponds falling to the northward; reeds grew in them and we +endeavoured to catch cod-perch but without success, probably because the +natives of the country were too expert fishers to leave any in such +holes. + +ASCEND MOUNT CAMPBELL. + +October 6. + +At two miles on we reached the summit of the range near Mount Campbell +which had partly bounded my view eastward from Mount Byng. A slight scrub +grew on this range but not so thickly as to be impervious to carts; and +after crossing it, as well as a succession of lower ridges, a good valley +at length appeared on the left, while another which was very wide and +green lay before us. At the further side of this and under another range +ran a deep mountain stream which was joined a little lower down by one +from the valley on the left: thus by following this stream I might have +turned the range, but it was not too steep to be crossed, and I required +some angles with the surrounding hills and the country before us. We +ascended it therefore and comparatively with ease; and from amongst the +trees on a hill I saw and intersected more points than I expected to see; +even Mount Macedon was visible and, to the eastward, summits which I was +almost certain lay beyond the river Goulburn. The descent from this ridge +to the eastward was rather steep; but we immediately after entered an +open forest in a valley which led very nearly in the direction of my +intended route. + +NATIVE BEVERAGE. + +The adjacent forest consisted of large trees of ironbark, the first of +that species of eucalyptus that we had seen for a considerable time. This +tree was then in flower, and we found in a large canoe at an old native +encampment a considerable quantity of the blossoms, which had not been +long cut. Piper explained the purpose for which these flowers had been +gathered by informing me that, by steeping them a night in water, the +natives make a sweet beverage named bool. + +VALLEY OF THE DEEGAY. + +October 7. + +The whole of this day's journey (fourteen miles) was along the same +valley that we had entered yesterday. The deep bed of a stream, then +containing a chain of ponds only, pursued a meandering course through it. +We saw in this valley a pair of cockatoos with the scarlet and yellow +top-knot. (Plate 23.) We had not been long encamped when intelligence was +brought me by Piper that a party of natives were following our track, and +soon after, Burnett and he having gone out to encourage them to come up, +seven, including an old man and two boys, approached and I hastened out +to meet them that they might not sit down too close to our camp. They +told us the creek watering this long valley was named Deegay. + +NATIVES EXCHANGE BASKETS FOR AXES. + +Three of them carried very neatly-wrought baskets, and I gave two +tomahawks in exchange for two of the baskets, and then making signs that +it was time to sleep I returned to my tent, hoping that they would go to +their tribe. + +THEY LINGER ABOUT OUR CAMP. + +On looking out however some time after, I found that two had walked +boldly up to our fires, while the others continued to cower over a few +embers at the spot where I left them; the evening being very cold and +stormy. Piper, who at first seemed much disposed to make friends of these +people, had found that his endeavours to conciliate strange natives were +as usual in vain, and was now going about sword in hand, while three of +the strangers seemed desirous to assuage his anger by telling him a long +yarn. The other, who was the old man, was casting a covetous eye on all +things around the camp. When I went out they retired to the group, but +long after it had become quite dark there they still sat, having scarcely +any fire and evidently bent on mischief. + +EFFECT OF FIREWORKS, ETC. + +I really was not sorry then to find that they still continued, for I had +made arrangements for having a little amusement in that case, although +their object in lingering there was nothing less than to kill us when +asleep. Accordingly at a given signal Burnett suddenly sallied forth +wearing a gilt mask and holding in his hand a blue light with which he +fired a rocket.* Two men concealed behind the boat-carriage bellowed +hideously through speaking trumpets, while all the others shouted and +discharged their carabines in the air. Burnett marched solemnly towards +the astonished natives who were seen through the gloom but for an instant +as they made their escape and disappeared forever; leaving behind them +however rough-shaped heavy clubs which they had made there in the dark +with the new tomahawks we had given them, and which clubs were doubtless +made for the sole purpose of beating out our brains as soon as we fell +asleep. Thus their savage thirst for our blood only afforded us some +hearty laughing. Such an instance of ingratitude was to me however a +subject of painful reflection. The clubs made in the dark, during a very +cold night, with the tomahawks I had given them, enabled me to understand +better what the intentions of the natives had been in other similar +cases; and I was at length convinced that no kindness had the slightest +effect in altering the disposition and savage desire of these wild men to +kill white strangers on their first coming among them. That Australia can +never be explored with safety except by very powerful parties will +probably be proved by the treacherous murder of many brave white men.** + +(*Footnote. The use of these masks, which I on several occasions +displayed with success, was first suggested to me by Sir John Jamison.) + +(**Footnote. A distressing instance of this hostility towards the whites +on the part of the aborigines has since occurred not far from the very +spot where I wrote the above portion of my journal. Our line of route +soon became the high road from Sydney to Port Phillip, and it appears by +the Sydney newspapers (see Appendix 2.3) that the natives attacked a +party of fifteen men proceeding with cattle into these recently explored +regions. Although the whites had firearms the blacks killed seven of +them, leaving another so severely wounded that his recovery was deemed +hopeless. The winding swamp where this sudden attack by aboriginal +natives took place is marked Swampy River on the map, and from the +assembling of such a number at that point, exactly midway between the +Murrumbidgee and Port Phillip, therefore the most remote from settled +parts, and especially from the SUDDENNESS of that attack, the reader may +imagine the perilous situation of my party on the Darling and the lower +part of the Murray where, had any such attack but commenced successfully, +it is extremely improbable that any white man would have returned to the +settled districts.) + +October 8. + +The windings of the creek were this day more in our way as we proceeded +along the valley and, when in doubt whether it would be best for our +purpose to cross this channel or one joining it there from the south, I +perceived a small hill at no great distance beyond, upon which I halted +the party and ascended, when I saw that several ranges previously +observed were at no great distance before us. In these ranges a gap to +the south-east seemed to be the bed of the river which I knew we were +approaching, and which I therefore concluded we should find in the low +intervening country. Westward of the gap or ravine stood a large mass +which I thought might be the Mount Disappointment of Mr. Hume. + +ARRIVAL AT, AND PASSAGE OF, THE GOULBURN. + +On returning to the party we crossed the channel of the Deegay; but at +less than a mile further we were obliged to pass again to the right bank +at a point where its course tended northward. Soon after recrossing it we +met with a broad dry channel or lagoon, with lofty gum trees of the yarra +species on its borders, a proof that the river was at hand; and on +advancing three-quarters of a mile further we made the bank of the +Goulburn or Hovell, a fine river somewhat larger than the Murrumbidgee.* +Its banks and bed were firm; the breadth 60 yards; the mean depth as +ascertained by soundings being somewhat more there than two fathoms. The +velocity was at the rate of 100 yards in three minutes, or one mile and +240 yards per hour; the temperature of the water 54 degrees Fahrenheit. +After having ascertained that this river was nowhere fordable at that +time I sought an eligible place for swimming the cattle and horses across +and immediately launched the boat. All the animals reached the opposite +bank in safety; and by the evening every part of our equipment except the +boat-carriage was also across. + +(*Footnote. This river has been unfortunate in obtaining a variety of +names and therefore less objection can be made to my preference of the +aboriginal which I ascertained through Piper to be Bayunga. We already +have a river Goulburn in New South Wales.) + +FISH CAUGHT. + +In this river we caught one or two very fine cod-perch, our old friends +Gristes peelii. + + +CHAPTER 3.13. + +Continue through a level forest country. +Ascend a height near the camp, and obtain a sight of snowy summits to the +eastward. +Reach a swampy river. +A man drowned. +Pass through Futter's range. +Impeded by a swamp among reeds. +Junction of the rivers Ovens and King. +Ascend granitic ranges. +Lofty mass named Mount Aberdeen. +Reach the Murray. +The river very difficult of access. +A carriage track discovered. +Passage of the river. +Cattle. +Horses. +Party returning to meet Mr. Stapylton. +A creek terminating in a swamp. +Mount Trafalgar. +Rugged country still before us. +Provisions nearly exhausted. +Cattle tracks found. +At length reach a valley leading in the desired direction. +Cattle seen. +Obliged to kill one of our working bullocks. +By following the valley downwards, we arrive on the Murrumbidgee. +Write my despatch. +Piper meets his friends. +Native names of rivers. + +CONTINUE THROUGH A LEVEL FOREST COUNTRY. + +October 9. + +Having buried on the left bank another letter of instructions for Mr. +Stapylton according to certain marks as previously arranged with him, we +mounted our boat on the carriage (which had been brought across early in +the morning) and continued our journey. I expected to find a ford in this +river but, considering the swollen state in which it then was, I +instructed Mr. Stapylton to remain encamped on the left bank until the +boat should return from the Murray, as beyond that river we were not +likely to have further occasion for it. Our way on leaving the Bayunga +was rather intricate, being amongst lagoons left by high floods of the +river. Some of them were fine sheets of water, apparently much frequented +by ducks and other aquatic birds. + +LEVEL FOREST COUNTRY. + +At exactly 2 1/2 miles from the river we reached the outer bank or berg, +and resumed at length the straight course homewards, for I there found a +level forest country open before me, through which we travelled about +eight miles in a south-east direction. We then encamped near some +waterholes which I found on our right, in the surface of a clay soil and +close to a plain extending southward. The wood throughout the forest +consisted of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus and we crossed, +soon after first entering it, a small plain. At 3 1/2 miles from the last +camp on this line, the low alluvial bed of the river with a deep lagoon +in it as broad as the river itself appeared close to us on the left; and +as I had seen some indications of the Bayunga on the other side also, or +to our right, it was obvious that we had just met with this river at one +of its most western bends, an object I had in view in following down the +Deegay from the westward. The forest country traversed by the party this +day was in general grassy and good and, as it was open enough to afford a +prospect of about a mile around us, we travelled on in a straight line +with unwonted ease and facility. + +October 10. + +We continued our journey homeward through a country of the same character +as that seen yesterday, at least for the first five miles, when we came +at length to a chain of deep ponds, the second we had encountered that +morning. In the bank of this I found a stratum of alluvium; but beyond it +the soil was granitic, and banksia was seen there for the first time +after crossing the river. At 7 1/4 miles we met with another chain of +large ponds, and at 9 miles a running stream flowing to the north-west. +After passing over various other chains of ponds we encamped at the end +of 14 1/2 miles near the bank of a running stream in which were also some +deep pools and which, from some flowers growing there, were named by the +men Violet Ponds. + +October 11. + +Having turned my course a little more towards the east in order to keep +the hills in view, chiefly for the more convenient continuance of the +survey, we passed through a country abundantly watered at that time, the +party having crossed eight running streams besides chains of ponds in +travelling only 14 miles. Towards the end of the day's journey we found +ourselves once more on undulating ground, and I at length perceived on my +right that particular height which, at a distance of 80 miles back, I had +selected as a guiding point in the direction which then appeared the most +open part of the horizon, this being also in the best line for reaching +the Murrumbidgee below Yass. It was the elevated northern extremity of a +range connected with others still more lofty which arose to the +south-east. We crossed some undulating ground near its base on which grew +trees of stringybark, a species of eucalyptus which had not been +previously seen in the forests traversed by us in our way from the river. +We next entered a valley of a finer description of land than that of the +level forest; and we encamped on the bank of a stream which formed deep +reedy ponds, having travelled 14 miles. + +As soon as I had marked out the ground for the party I proceeded towards +a hill which bore east-south-east from our camp and was distant from it +about 5 1/2 miles. On our way an emu ran boldly up, apparently desirous +of becoming acquainted with our horses; when close to us it stood still +and began quietly to feed like a domestic fowl so that I was at first +unwilling to take a shot at the social and friendly bird. The state of +our flour however, and the recollection of our one remaining sheep +already doomed to die, at length overcame my scruples, and I fired my +carabine but missed. The bird ran only to a little distance however, and +soon returned at a rapid rate again to feed beside us when, fortunately +perhaps for the emu, I had no more time to spare for such sport and we +proceeded. + +ASCEND A HEIGHT NEAR THE CAMP, AND OBTAIN A SIGHT OF SNOWY SUMMITS TO THE +EASTWARD. + +The top of the hill was covered thickly with wood, but I saw for the +first time for some years snowy pics far in the south-east beyond +intermediate mountains also of considerable elevation. There was one low +group of heights to the northward, but these were apparently the last, +for the dead level of the interior was visible beyond them to the +north-west. Further eastward a bold range extended too far towards the +north to be turned conveniently by us in our proposed route; but under +its high southern extremity (a very remarkable point) its connection with +the mountains on the south appeared very low, and thither I determined to +proceed. One isolated hill far in the north-western interior had already +proved a useful point and was still visible here. I also saw the distant +ranges to the eastward beyond the proposed pass just mentioned, and some +of these I had no doubt lay beyond the Murray. The hill and range I had +ascended consisted of granite, and the country between it and our camp of +grassy open forest land. + +October 12. + +We passed over a country of similar description and well watered +throughout the greater portion of this day's journey. In some parts the +surface consisted of stiff clay retaining the surface water in holes, and +at ten miles we crossed an undulating ridge of quartz rock; two miles +beyond which we encamped near a stream running northward. + +REACH A SWAMPY RIVER. + +October 13. + +At 3 1/4 miles we came to a river of very irregular width and which, as I +found on further examination, spread into broad lagoons and swamps +bordered with reeds. Where we first approached it the bank was high and +firm, the water forming a broad reach evidently very deep. But both above +and below that point the stream, actually flowing, seemed fordable and we +tried it in various places, but the bottom was everywhere soft and +swampy. + +A MAN DROWNED. + +The man whom I usually employed on these occasions was James Taylor who +had charge of the horses and who, on this unfortunate morning, was fated +to lose his life in that swampy river. Taylor, or Tally-ho, as the other +men called him, had been brought up in a hunting stable in England, and +was always desirous of going further than I was willing to allow him, +relying too much, as it now appeared, on his skill in swimming his horse, +which I had often before prevented him from doing. I had on this occasion +recalled him from different parts of the river, and determined to use the +boat and swim the cattle and horses to the other side, when Tally-ho +proposed to swim over on a horse in order to ascertain where the opposite +bank was most favourable for the cattle to get out. I agreed to his +crossing thus wherever he thought he could; and he rode towards a place +which I conceived was by no means the best, and accordingly said so to +him. I did not hear his reply, for he was just then riding into the +water, and I could no longer see him from where I stood on the edge of a +swampy hole. But scarcely a minute had elapsed when Burnett, going on +foot to the spot, called out for all the men who could dive, at the same +time exclaiming "the man's gone!" The horse came out with the bridle on +his neck just as I reached the water's edge, but of poor Tally-ho I saw +only the cap floating on the river. Four persons were immediately in the +water--Piper, his gin, and two whites--and at six or eight minutes at +most Piper brought the body up from the bottom. It was quite warm and +immediately almost all the means recommended in such cases were applied +by our medical attendant (Drysdale) who, having come from +Newcastle-upon-Tyne, had seen many cases of that description. For three +hours the animal heat was preserved by chafing the body, and during the +whole of that time the lungs were alternately inflated and compressed, +but all without success. With a sincerity of grief which must always +pervade the breasts of men losing one of their number under such +circumstances, we consigned the body of poor Taylor to a deep grave, the +doctor having previously laid it out between two large sheets of bark. I +was myself confounded with the most heart-felt sorrow when I turned from +the grave of poor Tally-ho, never to hear his bugle blast again.* It was +late before we commenced the passage of this fatal river which, although +apparently narrow, we could only cross in the same manner in which we had +passed the largest, namely, by swimming the cattle and horses, and +carrying every article of equipment across in the boat. We effected even +thus however the passage of the whole party before sunset; and then +encamped on the opposite bank. + +(*Footnote. How this man could have died in the water in so short a time +we did not understand, but it was conjectured that he had received some +blow from the horse, until we were subsequently informed when on the +Murrumbidgee by a person there who knew Taylor that he was subject to +fits, a fact which satisfied us all as to the sudden manner of his +death.) + +October 14. + +As we proceeded the broad swampy bed of this river or morass appeared on +our right for a mile, the country being still covered by an open forest +of box, having also grass enough upon it. At eight miles we approached +some low hills of clay-slate, and I ascended one to the southward of our +route from which I recognised a sufficient number of previously observed +points to enable me to determine its relative position and theirs. On +this hill I found the beautiful Brownonia which we had seen before only +on Macquarie range beside the Lachlan. We here also met with the rare +Spadostylis cunninghamii, whose heart-shaped glaucous leaves so much +reminded us of the European euphorbias that it would have been mistaken +for one of them if it had not been for its shrubby habit and bright +yellow pea flowers. + +PASS THROUGH FUTTER'S RANGE. + +The country crossed beyond this hill was first undulating then hilly, and +at length became so much so that it was necessary to pick a way for the +carts with much caution. Nevertheless we at length succeeded in crossing +this range also at its lowest part where the hill to the northward of it, +already mentioned as the end of a range, bore nearly north. On reaching +the head of this pass the prospect before us, after winding through such +a labyrinth of hills, was agreeable enough. One fertile hollow led to an +open level country which appeared to be bounded at a great distance by +mountains; and I concluded that I should find in this extensive valley +the rivers King and Ovens. Keeping along the verdant flat (which was +watered by a good chain of ponds) we encamped about a mile and a half +beyond the pass, and I then named that feature above it Futter's range +after a successful and public-spirited colonist of New South Wales. + +IMPEDED BY A SWAMP AMONG REEDS. + +October 15. + +We had not proceeded more than half a mile in the general direction I +proposed for our route when a reedy swamp compelled me to turn northward +and, after travelling in that direction about a mile and a half, we found +the swamp on our right had produced a small stream running nearly on a +level with the plain. Its banks were soft and boggy, and beyond it we saw +through the trees extensive tracts covered with reeds. I was soon +compelled by the rivulet to deviate from my intended route even to the +westward of north until, at 10 1/2 miles, on meeting with a chain of +ponds falling to the eastward, I turned north-east, which bearing, at +less than a mile forward, again brought us upon the stream running from +the swamp but which was here flowing between firm banks and forming ponds +of some magnitude. We forded it with difficulty by crossing at two +points, that we might not break too much the soft earth over which it +flowed by the passage of all in one place. + +JUNCTION OF THE RIVERS OVENS AND KING. + +At two miles further on we met with another stream of less magnitude +flowing also to the north-west and at about a mile beyond it we reached +the bank of the Ovens, fortunately just below the junction of a rather +smaller stream which I took to be King's river. + +The two united formed a noble stream finely breaking up the dead levels +of the surrounding plains which indeed, where we approached it, formed +its highest bank and were there twenty-three feet above the water. + +No time was lost in launching our boat, and we effected a passage and +encamped on the opposite bank before sunset, having driven all the cattle +and horses safely across also, although with considerable difficulty from +the steepness of the banks and softness of the soil at the water's edge +on the side where they got to land. + +October 16. + +This morning the river had fallen three inches; its temperature was 59 +degrees (of Fahrenheit) the current flowing at the rate of 1 1/4 miles +per hour; the mean depth two fathoms; and the width, where measured, 47 +yards; the breadth of the river King at the junction being nearly as +much. The right bank to the distance of a mile and a half from the river +was low and alluvial, and intersected by narrow watercourses and lagoons. +On the alluvial flat where we crossed it stood a small isolated hill, +between which and the higher ground still farther back water was running, +apparently from a swamp, but as soon as we crossed this we reached firm +ground and travelled on an open forest plain for nearly eight miles. + +ASCEND GRANITIC RANGES. + +We then came upon a hill of granite, and from its summit I perceived that +we were already on the northern extremities of the high ranges we had +seen from the westward. After travelling some miles along the summits of +ridges in order to reach their connection with another range more to the +northward, I ascertained, on crossing the highest part of a second ridge, +that its northern slopes were very steep and rocky. A hill of +considerable height lay before us and therefore, as soon as I had +selected a spot for our camp in a little intervening valley, I hastened +to it, certainly in doubt how we should extricate the carts from the +rocky fastnesses before us. That summit afforded a commanding view of the +country beyond the granitic range, and I perceived that it was low to a +considerable distance northward, while the ranges beyond that extensive +basin seemed of no great elevation to the westward or north-west, and all +terminated on the level interior country where the horizon was broken by +only one remarkable hill which, as I afterwards learnt, was named Dingee. +In that direction I saw also open plains along which I thought I could +trace the line of the Ovens. In the lower country before me I hoped to +find the Murray, according to the map of Messrs. Hovell and Hume, which +in the two rivers we had recently passed seemed wonderfully correct. + +LOFTY MASS NAMED MOUNT ABERDEEN. + +I again recognised in the south and south-east some of the snowy peaks +formerly noticed, and I named the most lofty mass Mount Aberdeen. Beyond +what I considered to be the course or bed of the Murray there appeared +some steep ranges, to avoid which I chose a course more to the northward +than I should otherwise have pursued in my way towards Yass. Before I +returned to the camp I sought and succeeded in finding and marking out, a +line of route by which the carts could be conducted across these rocky +ranges and down to the lower country beyond them. On that range we found +a handsome blue flower which I had previously seen growing abundantly on +Bowral range near Mittagong within the present colony. We found in these +valleys abundance of good grass. + +October 17. + +We descended from the higher range without difficulty, and then crossed +several low ridges of quartz and clay-slate extending westward; some +flats of good land lay between these ridges and, at about 6 miles, we met +with a creek or chain of ponds. At 13 1/2 miles we entered a rich plain +terminating northward at a low but remarkable hill which I had observed +from the mountains. + +REACH THE MURRAY. + +The grass grew luxuriantly on this plain and after crossing and passing +through the forest beyond it I recognised with satisfaction the lofty +yarra trees and the low verdant alluvial flats of the Murray. No one +could have mistaken this grand feature; for the vast extent of verdant +margin with lofty trees and still lakes could belong to no other +Australian river we knew of. On descending the berg or outer bank which +was sloping and grassy, I found the still lagoons so numerous that I +could not, without very great difficulty and after a ride of nearly an +hour, obtain a sight of the flowing river. I found it at length running +bank-high and still of greater width than any other known Australian +river. + +THE RIVER VERY DIFFICULT OF ACCESS. + +The water was then just beginning to pour over its borders into the +alluvial margins by which I had approached it; and on the opposite side +the border consisted of a reedy swamp, evidently impassable and unfit for +a landing-place. In no direction could I find access for our carts to the +running stream. Deep and long winding reaches of still water shut me out, +either from the high berg or bank at one part, or from the flowing stream +at another. Returning from the river in a different direction I found, in +a situation where I had nearly gained as I imagined the high bank after +riding a mile, that a deep reach still separated me from that high bank +which I then saw was beyond it, so that in order to return to the carts I +was obliged to retrace my steps for several miles. Having got round at +length I ascended the hill before mentioned for the purpose of taking +some angles, and I found that it consisted of granite, the component +parts being white quartz and felspar and black mica. I named this +remarkable feature, probably the lowest hill of granite on the Murray, +Mount Ochtertyre. I had sufficient daylight left to conduct the party +over part of this hill to a portion of the riverbank accessible then to +carts by fording only one lagoon. The velocity of the Murray at the spot +where we could thus approach its border exceeded that of any other river +we had previously crossed, being at the rate of 2 1/2 miles per hour. + +October 18. + +At daylight this morning the boat was sent across with Burnett and Piper, +who landed to examine the ground within the reeds on that bank; and they +ascertained it was so intersected by various deep lagoons that we could +no longer hope to pass that way. I next went down the river in the boat +and found at about a mile and a half below our camp a place where I +thought we might effect a passage. This point was under a steep bank of +red earth on the opposite shore where the river seemed to be encroaching. + +A CARRIAGE TRACK DISCOVERED. + +We landed and endeavoured to ascertain by looking for cattle marks +whether any stations were near; and having heard that the flocks of the +settlers already extended to the Murray we proceeded northward, eager to +discover the tracks of civilised men. The wheels of a gig drawn by one +horse and accompanied by others were traced by Piper, but the impressions +were several months old. We walked as far as a spacious plain at some +distance from the river without seeing any more recent tracks; and we +were at length convinced that no station extended then in the immediate +neighbourhood. The left bank between the spot where our camp then was and +the crossing-place which I had selected was low though apparently firm; +but on landing and returning along it I met with several narrow channels +into which water was then flowing from the river and which afterwards +cost us considerable trouble to cross with our carts. + +PASSAGE OF THE RIVER. + +That part of the bank which I had selected for driving the cattle into +the river, that they might swim over, was soft and boggy, but in the +opposite shore where they were to go out we cut in the firm clay at the +base of the red cliff before mentioned a landing-place and path with +picks and spades, so that the cattle on reaching that side could pass +along the foot of the cliff to a lower part of the bank adjacent. After +all other obstacles had been surmounted and the best portion of the day +had been spent in conducting the party to within a short distance of this +place my horse unexpectedly sunk in what had appeared to be firm ground. + +CATTLE. + +This impediment the party however overcame by cutting down some brush and +small trees, and opening a lane through which we at length contrived to +bring the cattle forward to the bank. It was near sunset before they +could be driven into the water; yet we finally succeeded in forcing the +whole to swim to the other side that evening with the exception of one +bullock which, having got bogged, was smothered in the mud on the first +rush of the others into the water. The landing of some of these animals +on the opposite bank was attended with difficulty for they did not all +make for the proper place, some turning towards the bank they had left +and endeavouring to re-ascend it much lower down where the banks were +either too soft or inaccessible: others swimming straight down the stream +turned to parts of the opposite bank which they could not climb. With +these last I was prepared to contend, having taken my station in the boat +to watch such contingencies; and by dragging the foremost of those who +had swum back across the river by the horns, and those which had arrived +at the wrong place out with ropes; we succeeded at length in forcing all +that had floated too far down to land on the right bank. But the greater +number had got out higher up the river upon some fallen portions of the +red cliff instead of taking the path we had cut under it; and the footing +there was so slight that, as they crowded on each other, groups fell, +from time to time, back into the river. The last part of the operation +was therefore to row towards these, when Woods, who was in the boat, soon +induced one of the bullocks well-known to him to take the path, upon +which all the rest followed until they reached the grassy flat where +others more fortunate than themselves were already feeding. At the close +of this laborious day I encamped on the right bank, leaving still on the +other side however a small party in charge of the horses and carts. The +day was extremely hot and the full and flowing river gave an unusual +appearance of life and motion to the desert whose wearisome stillness was +so unvarying elsewhere. Serpents were numerous and some were seen of a +species apparently peculiar to this river. Here they invariably took to +it, and one beautiful reptile in particular, being of a golden colour +with red streaks, sprang from under my horse's feet and rode upon the +strong current of the boiling stream, keeping abreast of us and holding +his head erect, as if in defiance and without once attempting to make +off, until he died in his glory by a shot from Roach. + +HORSES. + +October 19. + +The first half of this day was required for the passage of the horses one +by one; and for taking the carts across. We left the boat carriage on the +left bank and sunk the boat in a deep lagoon on the right bank, to remain +there until the party should return to the spot with a stock of +provisions for Mr. Stapylton. Here the last mountain barometer, which had +been carried in excellent order throughout the journey, lost mercury so +copiously that I could not hope to use it any more, time being then too +valuable to admit of delay; and thus my list of observations terminated +on the Murray. I supposed that the intense heat of the sun to which the +instrument had been exposed when tied to a tree for some hours after the +tents had been struck had contracted the leathern bag so much as to +loosen it from the edges of the cylinder, and thus formed openings +through which the mercury had escaped. The breadth of the Murray was 80 +yards at the place where we crossed it and the mean depth was 3 1/2 +fathoms. At length I saw with great satisfaction my party on the right +bank of this great river; having now no other stream to cross until we +reached the Murrumbidgee where we might consider ourselves at home. + +PARTY RETURNING TO MEET MR. STAPYLTON. + +Just at this time Archibald McKane, a carpenter, came forward and +proposed to return with any two of the men and the native Tommy to meet +the party coming after us upon the Goulburn; and to construct there such +rafts of casks and other gear as might enable Mr. Stapylton to cross that +river and the Ovens and so come forward to the Murray; an arrangement +which would render it unnecessary for me to send back any cattle or the +boat as intended. I was much pleased with the proposal of McKane and, +Tommy Came-last being also willing to return, I appointed John Douglas, a +sailor and most handy man, and Charles King, a man who feared nothing, to +accompany McKane. Full rations were issued to the four and, having given +them a letter for Mr. Stapylton, the little party returned towards the +houseless wilds, when we left the Murray to continue our journey +homewards. Although we did not set off before one o'clock we this day +travelled fourteen miles, but did not encamp till long after sunset. The +scarcity of water compelled us to travel thus far, for none had been seen +except one small muddy pool until I reached the valley where we encamped, +and even there we found little more than enough for ourselves and cattle. + +October 20. + +After travelling five miles over tolerable land we crossed a range of +very fine-grained granite consisting of felspar, quartz, and small +particles of mica and having a very crystalline aspect. This range was a +branch from a higher mass on our right. At seven miles we crossed the +shoulder of a hill whence I intersected others to the right. This also +consisted of fine-grained granite, similar to that of the other hill, but +it was not so red and had fewer spangles of mica. + +A CREEK TERMINATING IN A SWAMP. + +At eight miles we came to a chain of deep ponds which seemed a tributary +to some greater water, as indicated by the yarra trees and flats before +us, apparently covered with verdure. On advancing into these flats +however we found them soft and swampy, being so very wet and so covered +with dead trees that we were obliged to retrace our steps and turn +eastward, thus crossing to a higher bank altogether east of the chain of +ponds; and along this we proceeded without seeing any further continuance +of the deep serpentine channel, full of water, which appeared to +terminate there. That woody swamp seemed very extensive and was the only +instance met with in the course of our travels of the termination of a +stream in a swamp, although I understood subsequently that this was the +fate of various minor brooks descending towards that part of the interior +plains. We found there a curious black-headed grass which proved to be of +the carex genus. At 11 1/2 miles we arrived at a running stream, its +course being northward; and at 15 1/2 miles we reached a very fine little +rivulet flowing between grassy banks twenty-five feet high, the soil +consisting of a red earth similar to that on the interior plains and the +banks of the Murray. + +MOUNT TRAFALGAR. RUGGED COUNTRY STILL BEFORE US. + +October 21. + +At five miles we were abreast of a pointed hill which I ascended and +named Mount Trafalgar in honour of that memorable day. From it I obtained +a view of the country before us, and I perceived in the direction of our +intended route some high cone-shaped hills. A ridge extended from them to +the westward, but its height seemed gradually to diminish in that +direction, although it presented two very abrupt and remarkable hills +whose steepest side being towards the north overlooked as I supposed the +spacious basin of the Murrumbidgee. One solitary mount appeared much +farther to the westward and was also steep-sided towards the north. On +descending I shaped my course towards the hollow where the ridge could be +most easily crossed. At 8 3/4 miles we met with some good ponds of water +and beyond them the winding channel of a smaller watercourse falling +southward from the range already mentioned. After crossing and recrossing +this channel and its various branches we at length gained the crest of +the range, and I directed the party to halt while I hastened to a conical +summit on the left, apparently the highest and most pointed of those +previously observed. It consisted of syenite and from it I obtained a +very extensive view to the northward, but yet could not see any +favourable opening in the direction in which I wished to reach the +Murrumbidgee: on the contrary as we reduced our distance from home the +obstacles to our reaching it seemed to increase. + +PROVISIONS NEARLY EXHAUSTED. + +Our provisions had been counted out to a day, and any delay beyond the +time required to cross that country at our usual rate of travelling might +have been attended with great inconvenience. Mr. Stapylton's party, then +so far behind, were depending upon us for supplies; while a labyrinth of +mountains, entirely without roads or inhabitants, was to be crossed in a +limited time with carts before any such supplies could be obtained and +sent back. Some high and distant mountains appeared to the eastward, and +in the west I intersected the hills I had previously seen which were now +much nearer to us. On returning from the hill to the party we descended +from the range into some flats of good open land where a solitary +kangaroo became an object of intense interest now that our provisions +were exhausted. The week was out for which the last of our stock had been +issued in very small rations; and although most of the men had +endeavoured to make this very reduced week's allowance to last them nine +days no mutton remained, nor could it well have been preserved during +such hot weather. This kangaroo would have been therefore a most welcome +addition to our store; but we had no dogs and I was so anxious as to +venture a shot at too great a distance and to our great disappointment it +escaped. We finally encamped in a valley which fell to the right or +eastward, near some good ponds, and after performing a journey of upwards +of 15 miles. I found near the hill I first ascended in the morning a new +kind of grass with large seeds.* + +(*Footnote. Danthonia eriantha, Lindley manuscripts; panicula +subcoarctata lanceolata, spiculis sub-4-floris gluma laevi multo +brevioribus, palea exteriori laevigata basi apiceque villosissima, +aristis lateralibus subulatis debilibus intermedia brevioribus, foliis +setaceis vaginisque patentim pilosis, collo barbato.) + +October 22. + +Soon after we set out this morning we approached a range of barren hills +of clay-slate on which grew the grass tree (xanthorrhoea) and stunted +eucalypti. On ascending this range I perceived before me a deep ravine, +and beyond it hills less promising than even these which were +sufficiently repulsive to travellers with wheel-carriages. Turning +therefore from that hopeless prospect towards the eastward, we crossed +the head of a valley falling to the right, and after a somewhat tortuous +course we gained the highest part of a range beyond it, from which a +grassy vale descended on the opposite side towards the north-east. This +vale turned to the left after we had followed it 2 1/4 miles and we next +crossed a ridge of quartz rock. + +CATTLE TRACKS FOUND. + +Beyond the ridge the natives found some old cattle tracks and this +intelligence very much pleased and encouraged the men. + +BURNETT'S RIVULET. + +At two miles farther on we came upon a little rivulet flowing to the +westward through a good grassy valley, and it was joined about the place +where we came upon it by one coming from the south. The stream washed the +base of a lofty mountain which I ascended while the people were passing +our carts, cattle, and equipment across the rivulet which I named after +my trusty follower Burnett.* The mountain consisted of granite and was so +smooth that I could ride to its summit. The weather was boisterous and +the country which that height presented to my view seemed quite +inaccessible, at least in the direction of the colony where: + +Hills upon hills and alps on alps arose. + +(Footnote. See figure with the fowling-piece in Plate 17 Volume 1.) + +IMPEDIMENTS IN THE ROUTE. + +The only valley of any extent which could be seen was that watered by the +rivulet below, and this extended, as I have stated, to the westward, a +direction in which we could not follow it with any prospect of either +getting nearer home or reaching a cattle station. Our provisions were +exhausted, while the rocky fastnesses of a mountain region still +threatened to shut us out from the Murrumbidgee, a river on whose banks +we hoped to meet with civilised people once more and which, according to +the map, was almost within our reach. Again and again I examined the +mountains with my glass, and only discovered that they were numerous and +all ranging towards the north-west, a direction right across our way to +the Murrumbidgee. I could indeed trace among the hills in the north the +grand valley through which the river flowed, but the intervening ranges +seemed to deny any access to it from this side. I was determined however +to find some valley likely to lead us into that of the Murrumbidgee, and +although it could only be looked for beyond that mountain range, our +route had been so good and so direct thus far, from the very shores of +the southern ocean, that I could not despair of crossing the +comparatively small space occupied by these mountains; and I descended +the hill firmly resolved to continue our course in the same direction as +we best could. I found on reaching the foot that, to the delight of the +men, more cattle marks had been discovered in the valley, and in one +place Piper pointed out a spot where a bullock had been eaten by the +natives. Following the little stream upwards I at length placed our camp +in a grassy valley near its head and then, on riding forward, I found +that no obstruction existed to our progress with the carts on the +following day for at least several miles. + +October 23. + +The hills we ascended offered much less impediment than I had reason to +apprehend when I surveyed them at a distance, but they became at length +so steep-sided and sharp-pointed that to proceed further, even by keeping +the crests of a range, seemed a very doubtful undertaking: to cross such +ranges was still more difficult while the principal chain, which led to +the south-east, appeared equally impracticable even had its direction +been more favourable. + +AT LENGTH REACH A VALLEY LEADING IN THE DESIRED DIRECTION. + +Drizzling rain came on and prevented me from seeing far beyond the point +we had reached when I at length halted the party and, taking Piper with +me, descended into a valley before us in order to ascertain its general +direction and whether the carts might not pass along it. We found in this +valley the tracks not of cattle only but of well shod horses: we also +discovered that it opened into extensive green flats and, its direction +being northerly, I hastened back and conducted the party into it by the +best line of descent I could find, although it was certainly very steep. +Having got safe down with our carts we found excellent pasturage, the +cattle marks being very numerous and at length quite fresh, even the +print of young calves' feet appeared, and all the traces of a numerous +herd. + +WILD CATTLE SEEN. + +In short cattle tracks resembling roads ran along the banks of the chain +of ponds which watered this valley; and at length the welcome sight of +the cattle themselves delighted our longing eyes, not to mention our +stomachs which were then in the best possible state to assist our +perceptions of the beauty of a foreground of fat cattle. We were soon +surrounded by a staring herd consisting of at least 800 head, and I took +a shot at one; but my ball only made him jump, upon which the whole body, +apparently very wild, made off to the mountains. + +OBLIGED TO KILL ONE OF OUR WORKING BULLOCKS. + +Symptoms of famine now began to show themselves in the sullenness of some +of the men, and I most reluctantly allowed them to kill one of our poor +working animals, which was accordingly shot as soon as we encamped and +divided amongst the party. + +BY FOLLOWING THE VALLEY DOWNWARDS, WE ARRIVE ON THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +The valley preserved a course somewhat to the westward of north, and I +now felt confident that by following it downwards we should reach the +Murrumbidgee without meeting further impediment. This unexpected relief +from the hopeless prospects of the drizzling morning was infinitely more +refreshing to me than any kind of food could possibly have been, even +under such circumstances. + +October 24. + +As we continued our journey downwards the waterholes in the chain of +ponds became small and scarce, while we found the cattle-tracks more and +more numerous. No change took place in the character of the valley for +nine miles; but I recognised then at no great distance the hills which on +the 22nd I had supposed to lie beyond the Murrumbidgee. On riding to a +small eminence on the right I perceived the dark umbrageous trees +overshadowing that noble river, and close before me the rich open flats +with tame cattle browsing upon them, or reclining in luxuriant ease, very +unlike the wild herd. The river was flowing westward over a gravelly +bottom, its scenery being highly embellished by the lofty casuarinae, +whose sombre masses of darkest green cover the water so gracefully and +afford both coolness and shade. Now we could trace the marks of horsemen +on the plain; and as we travelled up the river horses and cattle appeared +on both banks. At length we discovered a small house or station and a +stockyard. On riding up to it an old man came to the door, beating the +ashes from a loaf nearly two feet in diameter. His name was Billy Buckley +and the poor fellow received us all with the most cordial welcome, +supplying us at once with two days' provisions until we could send across +the river for a supply. Just then several drays appeared on the opposite +side, coming along the ROAD from Sydney, and these drays contained a +supply from which Mr. Tompson the owner accommodated me with enough to +send back to meet Mr. Stapylton on the banks of the Murray. + +WRITE MY DESPATCH. + +Having pitched my tent close by the house of my new friend Billy, I wrote +a brief account of our proceedings to the government while my horses were +permitted to rest two days preparatory to my long ride to Sydney. + +PIPER MEETS HIS FRIENDS. + +Piper's joy on emerging from the land of Myalls (or savages) was at least +as great as ours, especially when he met here with natives of his +acquaintance--"CIVIL blackfellows," as he styled them, bel (not) Myalls. +He was at least a Triton among the minnows, and it was pleasant to see +how much he enjoyed his lionship among his brethren. Little Ballandella +had been taken great care of by Mrs. Piper and was now feasted with milk +and seemed quite happy. + +NATIVE NAMES OF RIVERS. + +I learnt from the natives we found here their names for the greater +rivers we had passed, and of some of the isolated hills. Everywhere the +Murray was known as the Millewa; but I was not so sure about Bayunga, a +name which I had understood to apply to the Goulburn, Hovell or Ovens. + +A STOCK-KEEPER'S HOSPITALITY. + +When Billy Buckley, who was only a stockkeeper at that station, saw my +party arrive and was at length aware who we were, he came to me when +enjoying a quiet walk on the riverbank at some distance from his house, +carrying in his hand a jug of rich milk and a piece of bread which I +afterwards learnt, with dismay, had been baked in butter. I felt bound in +civility to partake of both, but the consequence was an illness which +very much interfered with my enjoyment of that luxuriant repose I had +anticipated in my tent, under the shade of the casuarinae on the brink of +the living stream. + + +CHAPTER 3.14. + +Agreeable travelling. +Appearance of the country on the Murrumbidgee. +Jugion Creek. +Brunonia abundant. +Yass plains. +The Gap, an inn. +Bredalbane plains. +Lake George. +Soil and rocks. +The Wollondilly. +Goulburn plains. +A garden. +Public works. +Shoalhaven river. +Limestone caverns there. +County of St. Vincent. +Upper Shoalhaven. +Carwary. +Vast subsidence on a mountain there. +Goulburn township. +Great road. +Towrang hill. +The Wollondilly. +Wild country through which it flows. +The Nattai. +Moyengully. +Arrive at the line of great road. +Convict workmen. +Berrima bridge. +Berrima. +Trap range. +Sandstone country. +The Illawarra. +Lupton's inn. +The Razorback. +Ford of the Nepean. +Campbelltown. +Liverpool. +Lansdowne bridge. +Arrive at Sydney. +General remarks on the character of the settled country. +Fires in the woods. +Necessity for cutting roads. +Proportion of good and bad land. +Description of Australia Felix. +Woods. +Harbours. +The Murray. +Mr. Stapylton's report. +The aboriginal natives. +Turandurey. +My mode of communicating with Mr. Stapylton. +Survey of the Murrumbidgee. +Meteorological journal. +Arrival of the exploring party at Sydney. +Piper. +The two Tommies. +Ballandella. +Character of the natives of the interior. +Language. +Habits of those of Van Diemen's Land the same. +Temporary huts. +Mode of climbing trees. +Remarkable customs. +Charmed stones. +Females excluded from superstitious rites. +Bandage or fillet around the temples. +Striking out the tooth. +Painting with red. +Raised scars on arms and breast. +Cutting themselves in mourning. +Authority of old men. +Native dogs. +Females carrying children. +Weapons. +Spear. +Woomera. +Boomerang. +Its probable origin. +Shield or Hieleman. +Skill in approaching the kangaroo. +Modes of cooking. +Opossum. +Singeing. +Vegetable food. +The shovel. +General observations. + +AGREEABLE TRAVELLING. + +October 27. + +Brightly shone the sun, the sky was dressed in blue and gold and "the +fields were full of star-like flowers, and overgrown with joy,"* on the +first day of my ride homeward along the green banks of the Murrumbidgee, +having crossed the river in a small canoe that morning. Seven months had +elapsed since I had seen either a road or a bridge although during that +time I had travelled over two thousand four hundred miles. Right glad was +I, like Gilpin's horse, "at length to miss the lumber of the wheels," the +boats, carts, specimens, and last but not least, Kater's compasses. No +care had I now whether my single step was east or north-east, nor about +the length of my day's journey, nor the hills or dales crossed, as to +their true situation, names, or number, or where I should encamp. To be +free from such cares seemed heaven itself, and I rode on without the +slightest thought about where I should pass the night, quite sure that +some friendly hut or house would receive me and afford snugger shelter +and better fare than I had seen for many a day. + +(*Footnote. Remains of Peter Corcoran. Blackwood's Magazine.) + +APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY ON THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +We had arrived on the Murrumbidgee seventy-five miles below the point +where that river quitted the settled districts and ceased to form a +county boundary. I found the upper portion of this fine stream fully +occupied as cattle-stations, which indeed extended also, as I was +informed, much lower down the river; and such was the thoroughfare in +that direction that I found a tolerable cart road from one station to +another. I passed the night at the house of a stockman in charge of the +cattle of Mr. James Macarthur, and I was very comfortably lodged. + +October 28. + +With the Murrumbidgee still occasionally in view we pursued the road +which led towards Sydney. Each meadow was already covered with the lowing +herds for which it seemed to have been prepared; and the traces of man's +industry were now obvious in fences, and in a substantial wooden house +and smoking chimney, usually built in the most inviting part of each +cattle run. All the animals looked fat and sufficiently proved the value +of the pasturage along this river. Steep and rugged ridges occasionally +approached its banks and, in following the beaten track, I this day +crossed acclivities much more difficult for the passage of +wheel-carriages than any we had traversed throughout those uncultivated +wastes, where even the pastoral age had not commenced. + +The scenery at various points of the river seen this day was very +beautiful; its chief features consisting of noble sheets of water, +umbrageous woods, flowery meadows, enlivened by those objects so +essential to the harmony of landscape, cattle of every hue. + +The gigantic and luxuriant growth of the yarra eucalyptus everywhere +produced fine effects; and one tree in particular pleased me so much that +I was tempted to draw it, although the shades of evening would scarcely +permit; but while thus engaged I sent my servant forward to look for some +hut or station that I might remain the longer to complete my drawing. + +JUGION CREEK. + +I arrived long after dark at a cattle-station occupied by a +superintendent of Mr. Henry O'Brian, near Jugion Creek on the right bank +of the Murrumbidgee, and there passed the night. Two considerable rivers +join this creek from the mountainous but fine country to the southward, +one being named the Coodradigbee, the other the Doomot. The higher +country there is granitic although, on both rivers, limestone also +abounds in which the corals seem to belong to Mr. Murchison's Silurian +system. Favosites, Stromatopora concentrica, Heliopora pyriformis, and +stems of crinoidea are found loosely about the surface. There is also a +large rock of haematite under Mount Jellula. + +BRUNONIA ABUNDANT. + +October 29. + +The road led us this day over some hilly country of a rather poor +description, but the beautiful flower Brunonia grew so abundantly that +the surface exhibited the unusual and delicate tint of ultramarine blue. +I was tempted once more to forsake the road in order to ascend a range +which it crossed in hopes of being able to see, from some lofty summit +thereof, points of the country I had left, and thus to connect them by +means of my pocket sextant with any visible points I might recognise of +my former trigonometrical survey. It was not however in my power to do +this satisfactorily, not having been able to distinguish any of the +latter. + +YASS PLAINS. + +Towards evening I drew near Yass Plains and was not a little struck with +their insignificance as compared with those of the south. A township had +been marked out here, and the comfortable establishments of various +wealthy colonists evinced, by their preference of these plains, that they +considered them the best part of a very extensive district. + +THE GAP, AN INN. + +Mr. Cornelius O'Brien had invited me to his house and afterwards +furnished me with a supply of provisions for my party; but I carried my +own despatches, and a much shorter route led to the left by which I could +divide the way better in continuing my ride to the Gap, a small inn where +I arrived at a very late hour, the road having been soft, uneven, and +wholly through a dreary wood. + +The noise and bustle of the house was quite refreshing to one who had +dwelt so long in deserts, although it seemed to promise little +accommodation, for there had been races in the neighbourhood and horses +lay about the yard. Nevertheless the waiter and his wife cleared for my +accommodation a room which had been full of noisy people, and my horses +were soon lodged snugly in the stable. There indeed I perceived more room +than the house afforded, for while the guests were regaling within their +horses were allowed to lay about to starve outside, as if so many gypsies +had been about the place; no uncommon circumstance in Australia. + +October 30. + +In the course of my ride this morning I recognised the poor scrubby land +about the southern boundary of the county of Argyle, which I had surveyed +in 1828. The wood on it is rather open, consisting of a stunted species +of eucalyptus, the grass, apparently a hard species of poa, affording but +little nourishment. Sandstone and quartz are the predominant rocks +although some of the most remarkable hills consist of trap. + +BREDALBANE PLAINS. + +Passing at length through a gap in a low ridge of granular quartz, we +entered upon Bredalbane plains, consisting of three open flats of grassy +land circumscribed by hills of little apparent height, and extending +about twelve miles in the direction of this road, their average width +being about two miles. Deringullen ponds arise in the most southern +plain, and are among the most eastern heads of the Lachlan. The plains +are situated on the high dividing ground or water shed between the +streams falling eastward and westward, and had probably once been lagoons +of the same character as those which still distinguish other portions of +this dividing ground. + +LAKE GEORGE. + +The most remarkable of these is Lake George, about fourteen miles further +to the south, and which in 1828 was a sheet of water seventeen miles in +length and seven in breadth. There is no outlet for the waters of this +lake although it receives no less than four mountain streams from the +hills north of it, namely Turallo creek, whose highest source is fourteen +miles from the lake, Butmaro creek which arises in a mountain sixteen +miles from it, Taylor's creek from the range on the east, six miles +distant, and Kenny's creek from hills five miles distant. The southern +shore of this lake presents one continuous low ridge, separating its +waters from the head of the Yass river which would otherwise receive +them. The water was slightly brackish in 1828 but quite fit for use, and +the lake was then surrounded by dead trees of the eucalyptus measuring +about two feet in diameter, which also extended into it until wholly +covered by the water. In that wide expanse we could find no fish, and an +old native female said she remembered when the whole was a forest, a +statement supported pro tanto by the dead trees in its bed as well as by +the whole of the basin being in October 1836 a grassy meadow not unlike +the plains of Bredalbane. + +It would be well worth the attention of a man of leisure to ascertain the +lowest part in the country around Lake George, at which its waters, on +reaching their maximum height, would overflow from its basin. + +Several lagoons, apparently the remains of more extensive waters, occur +between Lake George and Bredalbane plains in the line of watershed as +already observed. These are named Tarrago, Mutmutbilly, and Wallagorong, +the latter being apparently a residuum of the lake which probably once +covered the three plains of Bredalbane. + +SOIL AND ROCKS. + +The quality of the soil now found in the patches of grassy land on the +margins of these lakes and lagoons depends on the nature of the high +ground nearest to them. The hills to the eastward of Lake George are +chiefly granitic. Ondyong point on its northern shore consists of +sandstone resembling that of the coal-measures; and the rock forming the +range above the western shores is of the same quality. The hills at the +source of Kenny's creek consist of trap, of which rock there is also a +remarkable hill on the southern side of Bredalbane plains; and these +plains are bounded on the north by a ridge of syenite, which here forms +the actual division between the sources of the rivers Lachlan and +Wollondilly. + +The water in the smaller lagoons westward of Lake George is perfectly +sweet, and the pasturage on the plains adjacent being in general very +good, the land is occupied by several extensive grazing establishments. + +THE WOLLONDILLY. + +On entering the valley of the river Wollondilly which waters Goulburn +plains, I was surprised to see its waters extremely low and not even +flowing. The poor appearance of the woods also struck me, judging by +comparison with the land in the south; and although the scantiness of +grass, also observable, might be attributed to the great number of sheep +and cattle fed there, I was not the less sensible of the more parched +aspect of the country generally. + +GOULBURN PLAINS. + +Goulburn Plains consist of open downs affording excellent pasturage for +sheep and extending twenty miles southward from the township, their +breadth being about ten. + +A GARDEN. + +I reached at twilight the house of a worthy friend, Captain Rossi, who +received me with great kindness and hospitality. The substantial +improvements which he had effected on his farm since my last visit to +that part of the colony evinced his skill and industry as a colonist; +while an extensive garden and many tasteful arrangements for domestic +comfort marked the residence of a gentleman. Under that hospitable roof I +exchanged the narrative of my wanderings for the accumulated news of +seven months which, with my friend's good cheer, rendered his invitation +to rest my horses for one day quite irresistible. + +October 31. + +A walk in the garden; a visit to the shearing shed; the news of colonial +affairs in general; fat pullets cooked a la gastronome and some good +wine; had each in its turn rare charms for me. + +PUBLIC WORKS. + +I had arrived in a country which I had myself surveyed; and the roads and +towns in progress were the first fruits of these labours. I had marked +out in 1830 the road now before me, which I then considered the most +important in New South Wales as leading to the more temperate south, and +I had now completed it as a line of communication between Sydney and the +southern coasts. This important public work on which I had bestowed the +greatest pains by surveying the whole country between the Wollondilly and +Shoalhaven rivers, had been nevertheless retarded nearly two years on the +representations of some of the settlers, so that the part most essential +to be opened continued still in a half finished state.* + +(*Footnote. A petition had been got up in favour of another line said to +be more direct; and it is a remarkable fact that numerous signatures were +obtained even to such a petition, although it was found at last that the +line laid down after a careful survey was not only twelve chains shorter +than the other proposed but also avoided the steepest hills.) + +SHOALHAVEN RIVER. + +The Shoalhaven river flows in a ravine about 1500 feet below the common +level of the country between it and the Wollondilly. Precipices +consisting at one part of granite and at another of limestone give a +peculiar grandeur to the scenery of the Shoalhaven river. + +LIMESTONE CAVERNS THERE. + +The limestone is of a dark grey colour and contains very imperfect +fragments of shells. We find among the features on these lofty riverbanks +many remarkable hollows not unaptly termed hoppers by the country people, +from the water sinking into them as grain subsides in the hopper of a +mill. As each of these hollows terminates in a crevice leading to a +cavern in the limestone below, I descended into one in 1828 and +penetrated without difficulty to a considerable depth over slimy rocks, +but was forced to return because our candles were nearly exhausted. A +current of air met us as we descended and it might have come from some +crevice probably near the bed of the river. That water sometimes flowed +into these caverns was evident from pieces of decayed trees which had +been carried downwards by it to a considerable depth. I looked in vain +there for fossil bones, but I found projecting from the side of the +cavern at the lowest part I reached a very perfect specimen of coral of +the genus favosites. + +COUNTY OF ST. VINCENT. + +The country to the eastward of the Shoalhaven river, that is to say +between it and the sea-coast, is very wild and mountainous. The higher +part including Currocbilly and the Pigeon house (summits) consists of +sandstone passing from a fine to a coarse grain, occasionally containing +pebbles of quartz, and in some of the varieties numerous specks of +decomposed felspar. The lower parts of the same country, according to the +rocks seen in Yalwal creek, consist of granite, basalt, and compact +felspar. Nearer the coast a friable whitish sandstone affords but a poor +soil, except where the partial occurrence of decomposed laminated felspar +and gneiss produced one somewhat better. This country comprises the +county of St. Vincent, bounded on one side by the Shoalhaven river and on +the other by the sea-coast. The southern portion of that county affords +the greatest quantity of soil available either for cultivation or +pasture; although around Bateman Bay, which is its limit on the south, +much good land cannot be expected as Snapper Island at the entrance +consists of grey compact quartz only, with white veins of crystalline +quartz. + +UPPER SHOALHAVEN. + +The country on the upper part of the Shoalhaven river comprises much good +land. The river flows there nearly on a level with the surface and +resembles an English stream. The temperature at the elevation of about +2000 feet above the sea is so low even in summer that potatoes and +gooseberries, for both of which the climate of Sydney is too hot, grow +luxuriantly. A rich field for geological research will probably be found +in that neighbourhood. + +CARWARY. + +In a hasty ride which I took as far as Carwary in 1832, I was conducted +by my friend Mr. Ryrie to a remarkable cavern under white marble where I +found trap; a vein of ironstone of a fused appearance; a quartzose +ferruginous conglomerate; a calcareous tuff containing fragments of these +rocks; and specular iron ore in abundance near the same spot. + +But still further southward and on the range separating the country at +the head of the Shoalhaven river from the ravines on the coast, I was +shown an antre vast which, for aught I know, may involve in its recesses +more of the wild and wonderful than any of the deserts idle which I have +since explored. + +VAST SUBSIDENCE ON A MOUNTAIN THERE. + +A part of the surface of that elevated country had subsided, carrying +trees along with it to the depth of about 400 yards, and left a yawning +opening about 300 yards wide resembling a gigantic quarry, at the bottom +of which the sunken trees continued to grow. In the eastern side of the +bottom of this subsidence a large opening extended under the rock and +seemed to lead to a subterraneous cavity of great dimensions. + +GOULBURN TOWNSHIP. + +November 1. + +Taking leave of my kind host at an early hour, I continued my ride, +passing through the new township in which, although but few years had +elapsed since I had sketched its streets on paper, a number of houses had +already been built. The Mulwary Ponds scarcely afford sufficient water of +the supply of a large population there; but at the junction of this +channel with the Wollondilly there is a deep reach not likely to be ever +exhausted. + +GREAT ROAD. + +The road marked out between this township and Sydney led over a country +shut up, as already stated, between the Wollondilly and the Shoalhaven +rivers. These streams are distant from each other at the narrowest part +of the intervening surface about ten miles; and as each is bordered by +deep ravines the middle portion of the country between them is naturally +the most level, and this happens to be precisely in the direction most +desirable for a general line of communication between Sydney and the most +valuable parts of the colony to the southward. + +TOWRANG HILL. + +At a few miles from Goulburn the road passes by the foot of Towrang, a +hill whose summit I had formerly cleared of timber, leaving only one +tree. I thus obtained an uninterrupted view of the distant horizon, and +found the hill very useful afterwards in extending our survey from +Jellore into the higher country around Lake George. This hill consists +chiefly of quartz rock. At its base the new line leaves the original cart +track which here crossed the Wollondilly twice. I now found an +intermediate road in use between the old track and my half-formed road +which was still inaccessible at this point for want of a small bridge +over Towrang Creek. + +THE WOLLONDILLY. + +The Wollondilly pursues its course to the left, passing under the +southern extremity of Cockbundoon range, which extends about thirty miles +in a straight line from north to south, and consists of sandstone dipping +westward. Near the Wollondilly and a few miles from Towrang a quarry of +crystalline variegated marble has been recently wrought to a considerable +extent, and chimney-pieces, tables, etc. now ornament most good houses at +Sydney. This rock occurs in blocks over greenstone, and has hitherto been +found only in that spot. + +WILD COUNTRY THROUGH WHICH IT FLOWS. + +The channel of the Wollondilly continues open and accessible for a few +miles lower down than this, but after it is joined by the Uringalla near +Arthursleigh it sinks immediately into a deep ravine and is no longer +accessible as above, the country to the westward of it being exceedingly +wild and broken. The scene it presented when I stood on the pic of +Jellore in 1828 and commenced a general survey of this colony was of the +most discouraging description.* A flat horizon to a surface cracked and +hollowed out into the wildest ravines, deep and inaccessible; their +sides, consisting of perpendicular rocky cliffs, afforded but little +reason to suppose that it could be surveyed and divided as proposed into +counties, hundreds, and parishes; and still less was it likely ever to be +inhabited, even if such a work could be accomplished. Nevertheless it was +necessary in the performance of my duties that these rivers should be +traced, and where the surveyor pronounced them inaccessible to the chain, +I clambered over rocks and measured from cliff to cliff with the pocket +sextant. Thus had I wandered on foot by the murmuring Wollondilly, +sometimes passing the night in its deep dark bed with no other companions +than a robber and a savage. I could now look back with some satisfaction +on these labours in that barren field. I had encompassed those wild +recesses; the desired division of the rocky wastes they enclosed had +really been made; and if no other practical benefit was derived we had at +least been enabled to open ways across them to better regions beyond. + +(*Footnote. My predecessor in office had declared the operation to be +impracticable in such a country; but to this general survey I was pledged +on accepting my appointment in London. Two other commissioners for the +division of the territory were each receiving a guinea a day, but yet +could do nothing until this survey was accomplished; and I therefore set +about the work with the resolution necessary for the performance of what +was deemed almost impossible. Universal wood, impassable ravines, a total +absence of artificial objects, and the consequent necessity for clearing +summits as stations for the theodolite were great impediments; but I made +the most of each station when it had once been cleared by taking an exact +panoramic view with the theodolite of the nameless features it commanded. +The accompanying facsimile of a page of my field book includes the view +between north and north-west, taken for the above purpose from the summit +of Jellore, and extends over the ravines of the Nattai to the crest of +the Blue Mountains. Plate 38.) + +THE NATTAI. MOYENGULLY. + +In the numerous ravines surrounding Jellore the little river Nattai has +its sources, and this wild region is the haunt and secure retreat of the +Nattai tribe whose chief, Moyengully, was one of my earliest aboriginal +friends. (See Plate 39.) + +Marulan, the highest summit eastward of Jellore, consists of ferruginous +sandstone, but in the country to the northward we find syenite and +trap-rock. Of the latter, Nattary, a small hill north-east from Towrang +and distant about four miles from it, is perhaps the most remarkable. The +elevation of the country there is considerable (being about one thousand +five hundred feet above the sea on the level part) and, except near the +Shoalhaven and Wollondilly rivers, not much broken into ravines. It +contains not only fine pasture land but also much good wheat land, +especially towards the side of the Shoalhaven river. + +ARRIVE AT THE LINE OF GREAT ROAD. CONVICT WORKMEN. + +At fourteen miles from Goulburn I came upon that part of my new line of +great road where the works had not been impeded by those for whose +benefit the road was intended;* and here I found that the iron-gangs had +done some good service. I had now the satisfaction of travelling along a +road every turn of which I had studied previous to marking it out after a +most careful survey of the whole country. + +(*Footnote. One of the most palpable consequences of the interruption my +plan experienced was that it interfered with the prospects of an +innkeeper whose inn had already been half built of brick in anticipation +of the opening of the new line.) + +BERRIMA BRIDGE. + +On Crawford's creek I found that a bridge with stone buttresses had been +nearly completed. I had endeavoured to introduce permanent bridges of +stonework into this colony instead of those of wood, which were very +liable to be burnt and frequently required repair. We had among the +prisoners some tolerable stonecutters and setters but, until I had the +good fortune to find among the emigrants a person practically acquainted +with the construction of arches, their labours had never been productive +of much benefit to the public. The governor had readily complied with my +recommendation to appoint Mr. Lennox superintendent of such works; and on +entering the township of Berrima this evening I had the satisfaction at +length of crossing at least one bridge worthy of a British colony. + +BERRIMA. + +This town is situated on the little river Wingecarrabee, and was planned +by me some years before when marking out the general line of road. The +eligibility of the situation consists chiefly in the abundance and purity +of the water, and of materials for building with the vicinity of a small +agricultural population. I found here, on my return now, Mr. Lambie of +the road branch of my department, under whose immediate superintendence +the bridge had been erected. The walls of a gaol and courthouse were also +rising, and a site was ready for the church. + +TRAP RANGE. + +November 2. + +A remarkable range consisting chiefly of trap-rock traverses the whole +country between the Wollondilly and the sea in a south-east direction +extending from Bullio to Kiama. The highest part is known as the +Mittagong range and, in laying down the new line of road, it was an +object of importance to avoid this range. Bowral, the highest part, +consists of quartz or very hard sandstone. + +SANDSTONE COUNTRY. + +On leaving Berrima the road traverses several low ridges of trap-rock and +then turns to the south-east in order to avoid the ravines of the Nattai; +for we again find here that ferruginous sandstone which desolates so +large a portion of New South Wales and, to all appearance, New Holland, +presenting in the interior desert plains of red sand, and on the eastern +side of the dividing range, a world of stone quarries and sterility. It +is only where trap or granite or limestone occur that the soil is worth +possessing, and to this extent every settler is under the necessity of +becoming a geologist; he must also be a geographer, that he may find +water and not lose himself in the bush; and it must indeed be admitted +that the intelligence of the native youth in all such matters is little +inferior to that of the aborigines. + +The barren sandstone country is separated from the seashore by a lofty +range of trap-rock connected with that of Mittagong, and we accordingly +find an earthly paradise between that range and the seashore. The +Illawarra is a region in which the rich soil is buried under matted +creepers, tree-ferns and the luxuriant shade of a tropical vegetation +nourished both by streams from the lofty range and the moist breezes of +the sea. There a promising and extensive field for man's industry lies +still uncultivated, but when the roads now partially in progress shall +have connected it with the rest of the colony it must become one of the +most certain sources of agricultural produce in New South Wales. + +THE ILLAWARRA. + +The sandstone on the interior side extends to the summit of the trap +range and its numerous ravines occasion the difficulties which have +hitherto excluded wheel-carriages from access to the Illawarra. + +LUPTON'S INN. + +To cross a country so excavated is impossible except in certain +directions, but the best lines these fastnesses admit of have been +ascertained and marked out in connection with that for the great southern +road, which ought to leave the present line at Lupton's Inn. I consider +this the most important public work still necessary to complete the +system of great roads planned by me in New South Wales; but I have not +had means at my disposal hitherto for carrying into effect this portion +of the general plan. + +From Lupton's Inn Sydney bore north-east, yet I was obliged to turn with +the present road towards the north-west and to travel eleven miles over +unfavourable ground in a direction to the westward of north. + +Having been engaged this day in examining the bridges and the work done +along the whole line, Mr. Lambie accompanying me, I did not reach the +house of my friend Macalister at Clifton until it was rather late, but at +any hour I could be sure of a hearty welcome. + +THE RAZORBACK. + +November 3. + +The Razorback range is a very remarkable feature in this part of the +country. It is isolated, extending about eight miles in a general +direction between west-north-west and east-south-east, being very level +on some parts of the summit, and so very narrow in others, while the +sides are also so steep, that the name it has obtained is descriptive +enough. + +FORD OF THE NEPEAN. CAMPBELLTOWN. + +Around this trap-range lies the fertile district of the Cowpastures, +watered by the Nepean river. On proceeding along the road towards +Campbelltown we cross this river by a ford which has been paved with a +causeway, and we thus enter the county of Cumberland. Here trap-rock +still predominates, and the soil is good and appears well cultivated, but +there is a saltness in the surface water which renders it at some seasons +unfit for use. The line of great road as planned by me would pass by this +township (now containing 400 inhabitants) and the town might then +probably increase by extending towards George's river, a stream which +would afford a permanent supply of good water. + +LIVERPOOL. LANSDOWNE BRIDGE. + +Passing through Liverpool, which has a population of 600 inhabitants and +is situated on the left bank of George's river, I arrived at three miles +beyond that town at Lansdowne bridge, where the largest arch hitherto +erected in Australia had been recently built by Mr. Lennox. The necessity +for a permanent bridge over Prospect Creek arose from the failure of +several wooden structures, to the great inconvenience of the public, this +being really a creek rising and falling with the tide. The obstacle, and +the steepness of the left bank, which was considerable, have been +triumphantly surmounted by a noble arch of 110 feet span which carries +the road at a very slight inclination to the level of the opposite bank. +The bridge is wholly the work of men in irons who must have been fed, and +must consequently have cost the public just as much if they had done +nothing all the while; and it may be held up as a fair specimen of the +great advantage of convict labour in such a country when applied to +public works. The creek is navigable to this point and, stone being +abundant and of good quality on the opposite side of George's river, one +gang was advantageously employed in the quarry there while another was +building the bridge. Mr. Lennox ably seconded my views in carrying these +arrangements into effect. He contrived the cranes, superintended the +stone cutting, and even taught the workmen; planned and erected the +centres for the arches and finally completed the structure itself which +had been opened to the public on the 26th of January. + +Before venturing on so large a work I had employed Mr. Lennox on a +smaller bridge in the new pass in the ascent to the Blue Mountains, and +the manner in which he completed that work was such as to justify the +confidence with which I suggested to the government this larger +undertaking. + +ARRIVE AT SYDNEY. + +At length I arrived at Sydney and had the happiness on terminating this +long journey to find that all the members of my family were well, +although they had been much alarmed by reports of my death and the +destruction of my party by the savage natives of the interior. + +... + +GENERAL REMARKS ON THE CHARACTER OF THE SETTLED COUNTRY. + +Released from the necessity for recording each day's proceedings I may +now add a few general remarks on the character of the country traversed +in these various expeditions. + +FIRES IN THE WOODS. + +It has been observed that the soil in New South Wales is good only where +trap, limestone, or granite rocks occur. Sandstone however predominates +so much as to cover about six-sevenths of the whole surface comprised +within the boundaries of nineteen counties. Wherever this is the surface +rock little besides barren sand is found in the place of soil. Deciduous +vegetation scarcely exists there, no vegetable soil is formed for, the +trees and shrubs being very inflammable, conflagrations take place so +frequently and extensively in the woods during summer as to leave very +little vegetable matter to return to earth. On the highest mountains and +in places the most remote and desolate I have always found on every dead +trunk on the ground, and living tree of any magnitude also, the marks of +fire; and thus it appeared that these annual conflagrations extend to +every place. In the regions of sandstone the territory is, in short, good +for nothing, and is besides very generally inaccessible, thus presenting +a formidable obstruction to any communication between isolated spots of a +better description. + +Land near Sydney has always been preferred to that which is remote, +though the quality may have been equal; yet throughout the wide extent of +twenty-three millions of acres only about 4,400,000 have been found worth +5 shillings per acre, and the owners of this appropriated land within the +limits have been obliged to send their cattle beyond them for the sake of +pasturage. + +EMPLOYMENT OF CONVICTS. + +From the labour necessary to form lines of communication across such a +country, New South Wales still affords an excellent field for the +employment of convicts; and although some of the present colonists may be +against the continuance of transportation, it must be admitted that the +increase and extension of population and the future prosperity of the +country depends much on the completion of such public works. The dominion +of man cannot indeed be extended well over nature there without much +labour of this description. The prisoners should be worked in gangs and +guarded and coerced according to some well organised system. It can +require no argument to show how much more pernicious to the general +interests of mankind the amalgamation of criminals with the people of a +young colony must be than with the dense population of old countries, +where a better organised police and laws suited to the community are in +full and efficient operation, both for the prevention and detection of +crime; but the employment of convicts on public works is not inseparable +from the question of allowing such people to become colonists; and +whoever desires to see the noble harbour of Sydney made the centre of a +flourishing country, extending from the tropic to the shores of the +Southern Ocean, rather than one only of several small settlements along +the coast, will not object to relieve the mother country by employing her +convicts even at a greater expense than they cost the colonists at +present. Thus the evil would in time cure itself by preparing the country +for such accessions of honest people from home as would reduce the +tainted portion of its inhabitants to a mere caput mortuum. + +NECESSITY FOR CUTTING ROADS. + +With a well arranged system of roads radiating from such a harbour even +the sandstone wastes, extensive though they be, might be overstepped and, +the good parts being connected by roads, the produce of the tropical and +temperate regions might then be brought to one common market. + +PROPORTION OF GOOD AND BAD LAND. + +Where there is so much unproductive surface the unavoidable dispersion of +population renders good lines of communication more essentially +necessary, and these must consist of roads, for there are neither +navigable rivers nor in general the means of forming canals. This colony +might thus extend northward to the tropic of Capricorn, westward to the +145th degree of east longitude, the southern portion having for +boundaries the Darling, the Murray and the seacoast. Throughout the +extensive territory thus bounded one-third, probably, consists of desert +interior plains; one-fourth of land available for pasturage or +cultivation; and the remainder of rocky mountain or impassable or +unproductive country. Perhaps the greater portion of really good land +within the whole extent will be found to the southward of the Murray, for +there the country consists chiefly of trap, granite, or limestone. The +amount of surface comprised in European kingdoms affords no criterion of +what may be necessary for the growth of a new people in Australia. +Extreme differences of soil, climate, and seasons may indeed be usefully +reconciled and rendered available to one community there; but this must +depend on ingenious adaptations aided by all the facilities man's art can +supply in the free occupation of a very extensive region. Agricultural +resources must ever be scanty and uncertain in a country where there is +so little moisture to nourish vegetation. We have seen, from the state of +the Darling where I last saw it, that all the surface water flowing from +the vast territory west of the dividing range, and extending north and +south between the Murray and the tropic, is insufficient to support the +current of one small river. The country southward of the Murray is not so +deficient in this respect for there the mountains are higher, the rocks +more varied, and the soil consequently better; while the vast extent of +open grassy downs seems just what was most necessary for the prosperity +of the present colonists and the encouragement of a greater emigration +from Europe. + +DESCRIPTION OF AUSTRALIA FELIX. + +Every variety of feature may be seen in these southern parts, from the +lofty alpine region on the east, to the low grassy plains in which it +terminates on the west. The Murray, perhaps the largest river in all +Australia, arises amongst those mountains, and receives in its course +various other rivers of considerable magnitude. These flow over extensive +plains in directions nearly parallel to the main stream, and thus +irrigate and fertilise a large extent of rich country. Falling from +mountains of great height, the current of these rivers is perpetual, +whereas in other parts of Australia the rivers are too often dried up and +seldom indeed deserve any other name than chains of ponds. + +Hills of moderate elevation occupy the central country between the Murray +and the sea, being thinly or partially wooded and covered with the +richest pasturage. The lower country, both on the northern and southern +skirts of these hills, is chiefly open, slightly undulating towards the +coast on the south, and is in general well watered. + +The grassy plains which extend northward from these thinly wooded hills +to the banks of the Murray are chequered by the channels of many streams +falling from them, and by the more permanent and extensive waters of deep +lagoons. These are numerous on the face of the plains near the river, as +if intended by a bounteous Providence to correct the deficiencies of too +dry a climate. An industrious and increasing people may always secure an +abundant supply by adopting artificial means to preserve it and, in +acting thus, they would only extend the natural plan according to their +wants. The fine climate is worthy of a little extra toil, especially in +those parts at a distance from the surplus waters of the large rivers, +and in places considered favourable in other respects either for the +rearing of cattle or for cultivation. + +In the western portion small rivers radiate from the Grampians an +elevated and isolated mass presenting no impediment to a free +communication through the fine country around its base. Hence that +enormous labour necessary to obtain access to some parts, and for +crossing continuous ranges to reach others by passes like those so +essential to the prosperity of the present colony, might be in a great +degree dispensed with in that southern region. + +Towards the south coast on the south and adjacent to the open downs +between the Grampians and Port Phillip, there is a low tract consisting +of very rich black soil, apparently the best imaginable for the +cultivation of grain in such a climate. + +WOODS. + +On parts of the low ridges of hills near Cape Nelson and Portland Bay are +forests of very large trees of stringybark, ironbark, and other useful +species of eucalyptus, much of which are probably destined yet to float +in vessels on the adjacent sea. + +HARBOURS. + +The character of the country behind Cape Northumberland affords fair +promise of a harbour in the shore to the westward. Such a port would +probably possess advantages over any other on the southern coast; for a +railroad thence, along the skirts of the level interior country, would +require but little artificial levelling and might extend to the tropical +regions or even beyond them, thus affording the means of expeditious +communication between all the fine districts on the interior side of the +coast ranges and a sea-port to the westward of Bass Strait. + +THE MURRAY. + +The Murray, fed by the lofty mountains on the east, carries to the sea a +body of fresh water sufficient to irrigate the whole country, which is in +general so level even to a great distance from its banks that the +abundant waters of the river might probably be turned into canals for the +purpose either of supplying deficiencies of natural irrigation at +particular places, or of affording the means of transport across the wide +plains. + +The high mountains in the east have not yet been explored but their very +aspect is refreshing in a country where the summer heat is often very +oppressive. The land is in short open and available in its present state +for all the purposes of civilised man. We traversed it in two directions +with heavy carts, meeting no other obstruction than the softness of the +rich soil and, in returning over flowery plains and green hills fanned by +the breezes of early spring, I named this region Australia Felix, the +better to distinguish it from the parched deserts of the interior country +where we had wandered so unprofitably and so long. + +This territory, still for the most part in a state of nature, presents a +fair blank sheet for any geographical arrangement whether of county +divisions, lines of communication, or sites of towns etc. etc. The growth +of a colony there might be trained according to one general system with a +view to various combinations of soil and climate and not left to chance +as in old countries or, which would perhaps be worse, to the partial or +narrow views of the first settlers. The plan of a whole state might be +arranged there like that of an edifice before the foundation is laid, and +a solid one seems necessary where a large superstructure is likely to be +built. The accompanying sketch of the limits which I would propose for +the colony of New South Wales is intended to show also how the +deficiencies of such a region might be compensated and the advantages +combined for the convenience and accommodation of a civilised and +industrious people. The rich pasture land beyond the mountains is already +connected by roads with the harbour of Sydney and the system, though not +complete, has been at least sufficiently carried into effect to justify +the preference of that town and port as a capital and common centre not +only for the roads, but for steam navigation around the coasts extending +in each direction about 900 miles. The coast country affords the best +prospects for the agriculturist, but the arable spots therein, being of +difficult access by land, his success would depend much on immediate +means of communication with Sydney by water and, on the facility his +position would thus afford of shipping his produce to neighbouring +colonies.* + +(*Footnote. A new market for cattle and sheep has just opened on the +interior side by the establishment of the new colony of South Australia, +an event more fortunate for New South Wales than the most sanguine friend +of that colony could have foreseen. It is to be regretted however that +the colonists are so slow in availing themselves of such a market by the +direct line of road already traced by my wheels along the right banks of +the rivers Lachlan, Murrumbidgee and Murray, by which flocks and herds +may be driven to the new colony without any danger of their wanting water +or the necessity for their crossing any rivers of importance.) + +It would be establishing a lasting monument of the beneficial influence +of British power and colonisation thus to engraft a new and flourishing +state on a region now so desolate and unproductive; but this seems only +possible under very extensive arrangements and by such means as England +alone can supply: + +"Here the great mistress of the seas is known, +By empires founded, not by states o'erthrown." Sydney Gazette, January 1, +1831. + +MR. STAPYLTON'S REPORT. + +Mr. Stapylton met no difficulty in following my track through Australia +Felix with heavy wheel-carriages and worn out cattle, as appears by his +own account of his progress in the following report, which he forwarded +to me on his arrival at the Murrumbidgee. + +Camp near Guy's Station, + +Murrumbidgee, November 11. + +Sir, + +I have the honour to inform you that in compliance with your directions +of the 18th of September last I quitted the depot near Lake Repose on the +3rd of October, and that I arrived at this station today. Our journey +towards the located country has been most prosperous. On the 17th of +October I reached the Goulburn, the numerous streams which intercepted +our progress thither having been overcome with rapidity and excellent +management on the part of the bullock-drivers. On the 23rd of the same +month the three men whom you sent back to me from the Murray arrived at +our encampment on the left bank of the Goulburn, and on the 25th the +passage was effected across it without an accident of any kind +whatsoever. On the 30th we encamped on the right bank of the Swampy river +having been again successful in the transit of stores and cattle, and on +the 2nd of November the party was established on the right bank of the +King. Here we unfortunately lost one bullock, a weak and lame animal. On +the 4th of November I made the Murray, and on the 5th, the provision +party not being arrived, I directed that the boat, which we found in the +contiguous backwater, should be got afloat, and on the evening of that +day we took up our position on the right bank of the river; the cattle, +horses, and equipment having been passed across in safety and in a manner +highly creditable to all the men employed. The boat-carriage (which as +well as the boat appeared to have remained untouched by the natives) was +brought off on the following morning which being Sunday I halted. On the +7th I resumed our journey and arrived as above-mentioned, the cattle and +horses having been got safely over the Murrumbidgee the same afternoon. I +duly received your several communications numbers one, two, three and +four; your letter by McKane and that by Burnett. Turandurey has grown +enormously fat which should speak well of the care we had taken of her, +and to the best of my belief no improprieties with her as a female have +ever taken place. She was married last night to King Joey and she +proceeds with him to her friends. Having a superfluity of government +blankets I have taken the liberty of giving her one now and one formerly +at the last depot. + +I have to acknowledge the receipt of the letter containing your +instructions of the 26th ultimo which was delivered to me by Overseer +Burnett on the 5th of this month, who arrived at the moment the first +boatload from the camp reached the opposite bank of the Murray. By means +of casks we floated the drays over the three rivers and, after two +experiments with a raft, both partial failures, and while a third raft +was in progress, of a more solid and better construction, we discovered +that a canoe, of very large dimensions and paddled by the native boy +Tommy, would prove the most expeditious as well as a safe mode of +shipment for the boxes of value, equipment, etc. I therefore caused a +canoe to be used for this purpose and it answered admirably. I have to +mention the loss of three of the cattle. One by death at the depot in +consequence of previous over-exertion, and two by accidents of a most +provoking and unlucky nature, but which could not have been foreseen or +prevented. + +I have the honour to be, etc. + +... + +THE ABORIGINAL NATIVES. + +This was one of the best proofs how valuable the services of the +aborigines who accompanied the party were to us on some occasions. They +could strip from a tree in a very short time a sheet of bark large enough +to form a canoe; and they could propel the light bark thus made through +the water with astonishing ease and swiftness. By this means alone most +of our effects were transported across broad rivers without an accident +even to any of my papers or dried plants. + +TURANDUREY. + +I was now anxious to convince them how much I appreciated that +assistance, but felt in some degree at a loss, especially in the case of +The Widow. It was therefore not the least satisfactory part of the +intelligence subsequently received from Mr. Stapylton that she was +married on her arrival to Joey, the King of the Murrumbidgee. + +MY MODE OF COMMUNICATING WITH MR. STAPYLTON. + +Mr. Stapylton had also received my several communications Numbers 1, 2, +3, and 4, which he dug from the earth at various camps; thus we had for +once eluded the keen eye of the aborigines in this kind of +correspondence, although on my first journey we had not been so +successful. My original plan on this expedition was to bury the letter +under the ashes of my fire; cutting at the same time a cross in the turf +where my tent had stood, as the mark by which Mr. Stapylton was to know +that something was so deposited. But I subsequently improved on this plan +and buried my letter in the centre of the cross by merely making a hole +with a stick in the soft earth where the turf had been cut and dropping +the letter into it. + +SURVEY OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE. + +In my instructions to Mr. Stapylton, sent by Burnett, I directed him to +survey the course of the Murrumbidgee upwards from Guy's station until he +connected our interior survey with the map of the colony. This he +accomplished by measuring to the junction of the Doomot, a river he had +himself previously surveyed. The direct distance between that junction +and the point at which we first arrived on the Murrumbidgee was +ascertained by Mr. Stapylton's measurement to be 34 3/4 miles, but +according to my map of the interior country 36 1/2 miles; making an error +of only 1 3/4 miles + or westward in a chain-measurement continued from +the station at Buree, where the journey commenced, to the Darling, thence +to the southern coast, and back to this point on the Murrumbidgee. The +measurement was checked by latitudes determined nightly from observations +of several stars, the difference between several amounting to a few +seconds only. I availed myself of trigonometrical measurements also with +a good theodolite wherever this was possible, in which case such a survey +engaged my whole attention, and my route was often directed according to +the position of good points. + +METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. + +The meteorological journal was kept more carefully during this journey +than on the two preceding; and with the kind assistance of my friends +Captain King and Mr. Dunlop it affords, in some parts at least, materials +for comparing the atmospheric changes in the regions explored with those +occurring simultaneously on the eastern coast. + +ARRIVAL OF THE EXPLORING PARTY AT SYDNEY. + +It was long before the party arrived in Sydney for, when it reached the +Murrumbidgee and the apprehension of famine no longer existed, rest was +so necessary for the cattle that it was indulged in for their sake +chiefly, to an extent much beyond the wishes of the men. The oxen looked +tolerably well therefore when the party did reach Sydney, although from +so long a journey; and my men enjoyed at length the triumph among their +fellows, to which they had long looked forward, on conducting the boat +and boat-carriage safely once more into the yard of my office. + +PIPER AND THE MEN REWARDED. + +But Piper seemed to relish his share of triumph most, and certainly he +well deserved the kindness he met with on all sides. I clothed him in my +own red coat and I gave him also a cocked hat and feather which had once +belonged to Governor Darling. His portrait thus arrayed soon appeared in +the print shops; an ingenious artist (Mr. Fernyhough) having drawn his +likeness very accurately. Piper was just the sort of man to enjoy +superlatively all his newly acquired consequence. He carried his head +high for (as he now found) everybody knew him and not a few gave him +money. With these donations he purchased silk handkerchiefs and wore them +in his breast, gowns for his gins, for he at last had TWO, and to his +great credit he abstained from any indulgence in intoxication, looking +down, apparently with contempt, on those wretched specimens of his race +who lead a gipsy life about Sydney. + +The men, after having been examined in my presence by the Council +composed of the governor, his secretary, and the bishop, respecting the +events of 27th May, were rewarded according to the standing and condition +of each. The government granted every indulgence I asked in their behalf. +Burnett, Muirhead, Woods, and Palmer obtained absolute pardons. Woods +receiving besides a gratuity of 10 pounds, and several, specially noticed +in my report, 5 pounds each. Those who had tickets of leave were rewarded +with conditional pardons, and tickets of leave were awarded to the rest +with one or two exceptions. Among those excluded was Drysdale, a most +trustworthy man and in whose behalf I was therefore much interested. He +had not been long enough in the colony to be entitled by the regulations +to any indulgence; and all I could do was to obtain for him a very +laborious place in the general hospital by holding which he avoided the +hulk. + +Piper was impatient to return to his own country near Bathurst, and I +fulfilled all the conditions of my contract with him by allowing him an +old firelock, blankets, etc., decorating him also with a brass plate on +which he was styled not as usual "King," for he said there were "too many +kings already," but "Conqueror of the Interior"--surely a sufficient +passport for him among those most likely to read it, the good people of +Bathurst. But when he came to bid me farewell he was accompanied much +against his will by the murderer of Mr. Cunningham, Bureemal, who had +been placed under his protection by Mr. Ferguson to be conducted back to +his tribe. This fellow had grown so stout that I could perceive no +resemblance in him to the youth he appeared when captured by Lieutenant +Zouch, and he had acquired an impudent air very unlike that of other +natives. According to his own confession he had put Mr. Cunningham to +death in cold blood, and Mr. Ferguson had in return clothed and fed him +for one year, and taught him the Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments. + +THE TWO TOMMIES. + +The two Tommies still remained to be provided for, and they were both +desirous of accompanying me to England. I had seriously intended to take +one with me but, so docile and so much attached to my service were both +of these youths, that I felt much difficulty in choosing between them. +Meanwhile they remained at Sydney while official cares and troubles so +thickened about me that I at length abandoned my intention, however +reluctantly and, when they were about to return at last to their own +country, I gave to each what clothes I could spare and they both shed +tears when they left my house. They were to travel through the colony +under the protection of Charles Hammond, one of my steadiest men who, +having obtained his freedom in reward for his services with me, was +proceeding towards Bathurst in charge of the teams of a Parcel Delivery +Company. + +BALLANDELLA. + +The little Ballandella, child of The Widow, was a welcome stranger to my +children among whom she remained and seemed to adopt the habits of +domestic life con amore, evincing a degree of aptness which promised very +favourably. The great expense of the passage home of a large family +obliged me at last to leave her at Sydney under the care of my friend Dr. +Nicholson who kindly undertook the superintendence of her education +during my absence in England. + +CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES OF THE INTERIOR. + +My experience enables me to speak in the most favourable terms of the +aborigines whose degraded position in the midst of the white population +affords no just criterion of their merits. The quickness of apprehension +of those in the interior was very remarkable, for nothing in all the +complicated adaptations we carried with us either surprised or puzzled +them. They are never awkward, on the contrary in manners and general +intelligence they appear superior to any class of white rustics that I +have seen. + +LANGUAGE. + +Their powers of mimicry seem extraordinary, and their shrewdness shines +even through the medium of imperfect language and renders them in general +very agreeable companions. + +On comparing a vocabulary of the language spoken by the natives on the +Darling with other vocabularies obtained by various persons on different +parts of the coast I found a striking similarity in eight words, and it +appears singular that all these words should apply to different parts of +the human body. I could discover no term in equally general use for any +other object as common as the parts of the body, such for instance as the +sun, moon, water, earth, etc. By the accompanying list of words used at +different places to express the same meaning,* it is obvious that those +to which I have alluded are common to the natives both in the +south-eastern and south-western portions of Australia; while no such +resemblance can be traced between these words and any in the language +spoken by natives on the northern coast. Now from this greater uniformity +of language prevailing throughout the length of this large island, and +the entire difference at much less distance latitudinally, it may perhaps +be inferred that the causes of change in the dialect of the aborigines +have been more active on the northern portion of Australia than +throughout the whole extent from east to west. The uniformity of dialect +prevailing along the whole southern shore seems a fact worthy of notice +as connected with any question respecting the origin of the language, and +whether other people or dialects have been subsequently introduced from +the northern or terrestrial portion of the globe. These words although +few may be useful to philologists as specimens of the general language +and, as the names of parts of the body can be obtained by travellers from +men the most savage by only pointing to each part, comparisons may be +thus extended to the natives of other shores. + +(*Footnote. See Appendix 2.1) + +I am not aware that any affinity has been discovered, at least in single +words, between the Australian language and that of the Polynesian +people;* but with very slight means of comparison I may perhaps be +excused for noticing the resemblance of Murroa, the name of the only +volcanic crater as yet found in Australia to Mouna-roa, the volcano of +the Sandwich Islands; and that tao, the name of the small yam or root +eaten by Australians, is similar to taro, the name of thirty-three +varieties of edible root and having the same meaning in the Friendly and +Society Isles and also in the Sandwich Islands. (See Cook's Voyages and +Polynesian Researches by William Ellis.) + +(*Footnote. Mr. Threlkeld has detected in it a similarity of idiom to the +languages of the South Sea islanders and the peculiarity of a dual number +common to all. See his Australian Grammar, Sydney 1834.) + +HABITS OF THOSE OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND THE SAME. + +The natives of Van Diemen's Land, the only inhabited region south of +Australia, are said to have been as dark as the negro race and to have +had woolly hair like them. Little is known of the language and character +of the unfortunate Tasmanian aborigines, and this is the more to be +regretted considering how useful a better knowledge of either might have +been in tracing the progressive extension of the Australasian people. The +prevailing opinion at present is that the natives of Van Diemen's Land +were also much more ferocious than the natives of Australia. But, brief +as the existence of these islanders has been on the page of history, +these characteristics are very much at variance with the descriptions we +have of the savages seen by the earliest European visitors, and +especially by Captain Cook who thus describes those he saw at Adventure +Bay in 1777: "Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so deep as that +of the African negroes. It should seem also that they sometimes heighten +their black colour by smoking their bodies, as a mark was left behind on +any clean substance, such as white paper, when they handled it." Captain +Cook then proceeds to describe the hair as being woolly, but all the +other particulars of that description are identical with the +peculiarities of Australian natives; and Captain King stated, according +to the editor of the Northern Voyage of Cook, that "Captain Cook was very +unwilling to allow that the hair of the natives seen in Adventure Bay WAS +woolly." The hair of the natives we saw in the interior and especially of +the females had a very frizzled appearance and never grew long; and I +should rather consider the hair of the natives of Tasmania as differing +in degree only from the frizzled hair of those of Australia. + +HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ABORIGINES. + +Instead of the ferocious character latterly attributed to the natives of +Van Diemen's Land we find on the contrary that Captain Cook describes +them as having "little of that fierce or wild appearance common to people +in their situation;" and a historian* draws a comparison, also in their +favour, between them and the natives of Botany Bay, of whom THREE stood +forward to oppose Captain Cook at his first landing. The ferocity +subsequently displayed by natives of Van Diemen's Land cannot fairly be +attributed to them therefore as characteristic of their race, at least +until extirpation stared them in the face and excited them to acts of +desperate vengeance against all white intruders. + +(*Footnote. The History of New Holland by the Right Honourable William +Eden, 1787 page 99.) + +The habits and customs of the aboriginal inhabitants are remarkably +similar throughout the wide extent of Australia, and appear to have been +equally characteristic of those of Van Diemen's Land: geological evidence +also leads us to suppose that this island has not always been separated +from the mainland by Bass Strait. The resemblance of the natives of Van +Diemen's Land to those of Northern Australia seemed indeed so perfect +that the first discoverers considered them "as well as the kangaroo, only +stragglers from the more northern parts of the country;" and as they had +no canoes fit to cross the sea, that New Holland, as it was then termed, +"was nowhere divided into islands, as some had supposed." + +TEMPORARY HUTS. MODE OF CLIMBING TREES. + +Their mode of life, as exhibited in the temporary huts made of boughs, +bark, or grass,* and of climbing trees to procure the opossum by cutting +notches in the bark, alternately with each hand as they ascend, prevails +not only from shore to shore in Australia but is so exactly similar in +Van Diemen's Land and at the same time so uncommon elsewhere that Tasman, +the first discoverer of that island, concluded "that the natives either +were of an extraordinary size, from the steps having been five feet +asunder or THAT THEY HAD SOME METHOD which he could not conceive of +climbing trees by the help of such steps." It is strong presumptive +evidence therefore of the connection of the inhabitants of Van Diemen's +Land with the race in Australia that a method of climbing trees, now so +well known as peculiar to the natives of Australia, should have been +equally characteristic of those of Tasmania. The notches made in climbing +trees are cut by means of a small stone hatchet and, as already observed, +with each hand alternately. By long practice a native can support himself +with his toes on very small notches, not only in climbing but while he +cuts other notches, necessary for his further ascent, with one hand, the +other arm embracing the tree. The elasticity and lightness of the simple +handle of the mogo or stone hatchet employed (see Figure 5 above) are +well adapted to the weight of the head and assist the blow necessary to +cut the thick bark with an edge of stone. As the natives live chiefly on +the opossum, which they find in the hollow trunk or upper branches of +tall trees and, as they never ascend by old notches but always cut new +ones, such marks are very common in the woods; and on my journeys in the +interior I knew, by their being in a recent state, when I was approaching +a tribe; or when they were not quite recent how long it was since the +natives had been in such parts of the woods; whether they had any iron +hatchets or used still those of stone only; etc. + +(*Footnote. Many usages of these rude people much resemble those of the +wandering Arabs. Dr. Pococke mentions some open huts made of boughs +raised about three feet above the ground which he found near St. John +D'Acre. He observes: "These materials are of so perishing a nature, and +trees and reeds and bushes are so very scarce in some places that one +would wonder they should not all accommodate themselves with tents but we +find they do not in fact." Volume 2 page 158. "And that they should +publish and proclaim in all their cities and in Jerusalem saying, Go +forth unto the mount and fetch olive branches and pine branches and +myrtle branches and palm branches and branches of thick trees to make +booths as it is written." Nehemiah 8:15.) + +REMARKABLE CUSTOMS. + +The men wear girdles usually made of the wool of the opossum, and a sort +of tail of the same material is appended to this girdle, both before and +behind, and seems to be the only part of their costume suggested by any +ideas of decency. The girdle answers besides the important purpose of +supporting the lower viscera, and seems to have been found necessary for +the human frame by almost all savages. + +CHARMED STONES. FEMALES EXCLUDED FROM SUPERSTITIOUS RITES. + +In these girdles the men, and especially their coradjes or priests, +frequently carry crystals of quartz or other shining stones, which they +hold in high estimation and very unwillingly show to anyone, taking care +when they do that no woman shall see them.* + +(*Footnote. Genesis 28:18. "From this conduct of Jacob and this Hebrew +appellative, the learned Bochart, with great ingenuity and reason, +insists that the name and veneration of the sacred stones called Baetyli, +so celebrated in all Pagan antiquity, were derived. These baetyli were +stones of a round form, they were supposed to be animated, by means of +magical incantations, with a portion of the Deity; they were consulted on +occasions of great and pressing emergency, as a kind of divine oracles, +and were suspended either round the neck or some other part of the body." +Burder's Oriental Customs volume 1 page 40.) + +BANDAGE OR FILLET AROUND THE TEMPLES. + +The natives wear a neatly wrought bandage or fillet round the head and +whiten it with pipe-clay as a soldier cleans his belts.* They also wear +one of a red colour under it. The custom is so general, without obvious +utility, at least when the hair is short, that we may suppose it is also +connected with some superstition. + +(*Footnote. See illustration Cambo Volume 1.) + +STRIKING OUT THE TOOTH. + +But still more remarkable is the practice of striking out one of the +front teeth at the age of puberty, a custom observed both on the coast +and as far as I penetrated in the interior. On the western coast also +Dampier observed that the two fore-teeth were wanting in all the men and +women he saw. According to Piper certain rites belong to this strange +custom. The young men retire from the tribe to solitary places, there to +mourn and abstain from animal food for many days previous to their being +subjected to this mutilation. The tooth is not drawn but knocked out by +an old man, or coradje, with a wooden chisel, struck forcibly and so as +to break it. It would be very difficult to account for a custom so +general and also so absurd, otherwise than by supposing it a typical +sacrifice, probably derived from early sacrificial rites. The cutting off +of the last joint of the little finger of females seems a custom of the +same kind; also boring the cartilage between the nostrils in both sexes +and wearing therein, when danger is apprehended, a small bone or piece of +reed.* + +(*Footnote. The aborigines of Australia seem to resemble more, although +at so great a distance, those of the Sandwich Islands than the natives of +any other of the numerous isles so much nearer to them. According to Cook +this strange custom of striking out the teeth prevails also there. "The +knocking out their fore teeth," says that navigator, "may be, with +propriety, classed among their religious customs. Most of the common +people and many of the chiefs had lost one or more of them; and this we +understood was considered as a propitiatory sacrifice to the Eatooa to +avert his anger; and not like the cutting off a part of the finger at the +Friendly Islands to express the violence of their grief at the death of a +friend." Cook's Voyage.) + +PAINTING WITH RED. + +To paint the body red seems also a custom of the natives in all parts +that I have visited: but the most constant use of colours both white and +red appears on the narrow shield or hieleman (see below) which is seldom +to be found without some vestiges of both colours about the carving with +which they are also ornamented.* + +(*Footnote. "A German pays no attention to the ornament of his person; +his shield is the object of his care; and this he decorates with the +liveliest colours." Tacitus de Mor. Germ. c.6.) + +RAISED SCARS ON ARMS AND BREAST. + +The "large punctures or ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, +some in straight and others in curved lines" distinguish the Australian +natives wherever they have been yet seen and, in describing these raised +scars, I have quoted the words of Captain Cook as the most descriptive +although having reference to the natives of Adventure Bay, in one of the +most southern isles of Van Diemen's Land, when first seen in 1777. + +CUTTING THEMSELVES IN MOURNING. + +It is also customary for both men and women to cut themselves in mourning +for relations. I have seen old women in particular bleeding about the +temples from such self-inflicted wounds.* + +(*Footnote. "We often read of people cutting themselves, in Holy Writ, +when in great anguish; but we are not commonly told what part they +wounded. The modern Arabs, it seems, gash their arms which with them are +often bare: it appears from a passage of Jeremiah that the ancients +wounded themselves in the same part, 'Every head shall be bald, and every +beard clipt; upon all hands shall be cuttings and upon the loins +sackcloth.' Chapter 48:37." Harmer volume 4 page 436.) + +AUTHORITY OF OLD MEN. + +Respect for age is universal among the aborigines. Old men, and even old +women, exercise great authority among assembled tribes and "rule the big +war" with their voices when both spears and boomerangs are ready to be +thrown.* Young men are admitted into the order of the seniors according +to certain rites which their coradjes, or priests, have the sagacity to +keep secret and render mysterious. + +(*Footnote. Leviticus 19:32. "Thou shalt rise up before the hoary head, +and honour the face of the old man." The Lacedemonians had a law that +aged persons should be reverenced like fathers. See also Homer Iliad +15:204 et 23:788. Odyss. 13:141.) + +LAW AGAINST EATING EMU FLESH. + +No young men are allowed to eat the flesh or eggs of the emu, a kind of +luxury which is thus reserved exclusively for the old men and the women. +I understood from Piper, who abstained from eating emu when food was very +scarce, that the ceremony necessary in this case consisted chiefly in +being rubbed all over with emu fat by an old man. Richardson, one of our +party, was an old man and Piper reluctantly allowed himself to be rubbed +with emu fat by Richardson; but from that time he had no objection to eat +the flesh of that bird. The threatened penalty was that young men, after +eating it, would be afflicted with sores all over the body. + +NATIVE DOGS. + +The native dog, so common in Australia, is not found in Tasmania; while +on the other hand two animals, the Dasyurus ursinus and Thylacynus, exist +in Tasmania but have not been found hitherto in Australia. Have these +been extirpated in Australia by the dog on his introduction subsequently +to the opening of the straits? It may be observed that this is the more +likely as the above-mentioned species found in Van Diemen's Land only, +consist of those two unable to climb and avoid such an enemy. The +Australian natives evince great humanity in their behaviour to these +dogs. In the interior we saw few natives who were not followed by some of +these animals, although they did not appear of much use to them. The +women not unfrequently suckle the young pups and so bring them up, but +these are always miserably thin so that we knew a native's dog from a +wild one by the starved appearance of the former. The howl of a native +dog in the desert wilds is the most melancholy sound imaginable, much +resembling that of a tame dog when he has lost his master. We find no +remains of this genus among the fossils and it seems therefore probable +that the dog accompanied the native, wherever he came from. + +FEMALES CARRYING CHILDREN. + +We trace a further resemblance between this rude people and the orientals +in their common method of carrying children on their shoulders; and the +sketch of Turandurey with Ballandella so mounted (Plate 24) affords the +best illustration of a passage in Scripture which has very much puzzled +commentators.* But the savage tribes of mankind as they approach nearer +to the condition of animals seem to preserve a stronger resemblance to +themselves and to each other. The uniform stability of their manners +seems a natural consequence of the uncultivated state of their faculties; +and it is satisfactory to discover such direct illustrations of ancient +history among these rude and primitive specimens of our race. + +(*Footnote. "Was the custom anciently the reverse of this? So it might be +imagined from Isaiah 49:22. 'They shall bring thy sons in their arms and +thy daughters shall be carried upon their shoulders'"! Harmer's Oriental +Customs.) + +WEAPONS. THE SPEAR. WOOMERA. + +The weapons used by the natives are not more remarkable and peculiar in +their construction than general in their use on every shore of New +Holland. The spear is thrown by means of a woomera which is a slight rod +about three feet long having at one end a niche to receive the end of the +spear. The missile is shot forward by this means with great force and +accuracy of direction; for by the peculiar method of throwing the spear +the woomera affords a great additional impetus from this most ingenious +lengthening of the arm to that extent.* + +(*Footnote. For the shape of the woomera see Moyengully Plate 49 above; +and the manner of throwing the spear may be seen in Plate 8 Volume 1.) + +THE BOOMERANG. ITS PROBABLE ORIGIN. + +The boomerang, a thin curved missile, can be thrown by a skilful hand so +as to rise upon the air and thus to deviate from the ordinary path of +projectiles, its crooked course being nevertheless equally under control. +It is of the form here represented, being about two feet four inches +long. These weapons are cut according to the grain from the curved parts +of acacia or other standing trees of compact hard wood. They usually +weigh about 9 1/2 ounces. One side, which is the uppermost in throwing, +is slightly convex, and is sometimes elaborately carved. The lower side +is flat and plain. The boomerang is held, not as a sabre, but +sickle-wise, or concave towards the thrower and, as a rotatory motion is +imparted to it when sent off, the air presents so much resistance to the +flat side and so little to the sharp edge as it cuts forward, that the +long-sustained flight of the whirling missile seems independent of the +common effect of gravitation. + +The native, from long practice, can do astonishing things with this +weapon. He seems to determine with great certainty what its crooked and +distant flight shall be, and how and where it is to end. Thus he +frequently amuses himself in hurling the formidable weapon to astonishing +heights and distances from one spot to which the missile returns to fall +beside him. Sometimes the earth is made a fulcrum to which the boomerang +descends only to resume a longer and more sustained flight, or to leap, +perhaps, over a tree and strike an object behind it. + +The contrivance probably originated in the utility of such a missile for +the purpose of killing ducks where they are very numerous, as on the +interior rivers and lagoons and where, accordingly, we find it much more +in use than on the seacoast and better made, being often covered with +good carving.* (See Cambo, Volume 1, also small figures in Plate 28 +above.) + +(*Footnote. That Dampier saw this weapon also on the western coast in +latitude 16 degrees 50 minutes is evident from the following observation. +"These swords were afterwards found to be made of wood and rudely shaped +something like a cutlass.") + +SHIELD OR HIELEMAN. + +There is also much originality in the shield or hieleman of these people. +It is merely a piece of wood of little thickness and 2 feet 8 inches +long, tapering to each end, cut to an edge outwards and having a handle +or hole in the middle behind the thickest part. This is made of light +wood and affords protection from missiles, chiefly by the facility with +which it is turned round the centre or handle. + +SKILL IN APPROACHING THE KANGAROO. + +Great ingenuity is necessary and is as cleverly practised by the natives +in approaching the kangaroo. This they display in creeping, stalking with +bushes, advancing behind trees, etc. and to such a degree are their wits +sharpened by their appetites that they can even distinguish when the +kangaroo kills a fly; and they consider in their proceedings, from the +habit of the kangaroo to kill flies and smell the blood, whether the +animal may discover from the blood the fly contains that men are near. + +FOOD OF THE NATIVES. MODES OF COOKING. + +The natives are accustomed to cook such animals by digging a hole in the +ground, making a fire in it, and heating the stones found about. The +kangaroo is placed in this hole with the skin on, and is covered with +heated embers or warm stones. + +OPOSSUM. SINGEING. + +The opossum which constitutes the more ordinary food of the native is not +cooked so much, but only singed, so as to have a flavour of the singed +wool; but it is nevertheless palatable enough even to a white man. + +VEGETABLE FOOD. THE SHOVEL. + +The young natives of the interior usually carry a small wooden shovel +(see foreground figure, Plate 12 Volume 1) with one end of which they dig +up different roots, and with the other break into the large anthills for +the larvae, which they eat: the labour necessary to obtain a mouthful +even, of such indifferent food, being thus really more than would be +sufficient for the cultivation of the earth according to the more +provident arrangements of civilised men. Yet in a land affording such +meagre support the Australian savage is not a cannibal: while the New +Zealander, who inhabits a much more productive region, notoriously feasts +on human flesh. + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +Were it expedient to enter here into further details, or upon a longer +description of the natives of Australia, I might quote largely from +Captain Cook's account of those he saw at Adventure Bay, Van Diemen's +Land, as being more detailed and descriptive, both of the natives in the +interior, and of those also around the whole circumference of Australia, +than any I could give. In the descriptions by Dampier and other +navigators who have touched on any part of these shores we recognise the +same natives with all their characteristics, and are led to conclude that +they are derived from the same stock and, as the judicious compiler of +the first History of New Holland considered it most probable from this +and other circumstances "that the number is small, and that the interior +parts of the country are inhabited,"* I may observe that I have had no +reason to entertain a contrary opinion from what I saw of the interior +country beyond the Darling. The native population is very thinly spread +over the regions I have explored, amounting to nearly a seventh part of +Australia. I cannot estimate the number at more than 6000; but on the +contrary I believe it to be considerably less. They may increase rapidly +if wild cattle become numerous; and as an instance I may refer to the +number and good appearance of the Cudjallagong tribe near Macquarie range +where they occasionally fell in with a herd of wild cattle. + +(*Footnote. History of New Holland pages 31 and 232.) + +DESTRUCTION OF THE KANGAROO. + +The kangaroo disappears from cattle runs, and is also killed by stockmen +merely for the sake of the skin; but no mercy is shown to the natives who +may help themselves to a bullock or a sheep. Such a state of things must +infallibly lead to the extirpation of the aboriginal natives, as in Van +Diemen's Land, unless timely measures are taken for their civilisation +and protection. I have heard some affecting allusions made by natives to +the white men's killing the kangaroo. At present almost every stockman +has several strong kangaroo dogs; now it would be only an act of justice +towards the aborigines to prohibit white men by law from killing these +creatures which are as essential to the natives as cattle are to the +Europeans. The prohibition would be at least a proof of the disposition +of the strangers to act as humanely as they possibly could towards the +natives. If wild cattle on the contrary become numerous the natives also +might increase in number and, if not civilised and instructed now, might +become formidable and implacable enemies then, as no absolute right to +kill even wild cattle would be conceded to them. The evils likely to +result from such circumstances were apparent both in the commencement and +termination of my first journey; but although the desert character of the +interior renders such a state of things less likely to happen, at least +on a larger scale, the unfortunate race whom we have found on the shores +of Australia are not the less entitled to our protection. + +CIVILISATION OF THE ABORIGINES. + +Some adequate provision for their civilisation and maintenance is due on +our part to this race of men, were it only in return for the means of +existence of which we are depriving them. The bad example of the class of +persons sent to Australia should be counteracted by some serious efforts +to civilise and instruct these aboriginal inhabitants. That they are +capable of civilisation and instruction has been proved recently in the +case of a number who were sentenced for some offence to be confined with +a chaingang on Goat Island in Sydney harbour. By the exertions of Mr. +Ferguson, who was I believe a missionary gentleman, these men were taught +in five months to read tolerably well, and also to explain in English the +meaning of the Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments. During that time they +had been initiated in the craft of stone-cutting and building so as to +completely erect a small house. They grew fat and muscular and appeared +really stronger men, when well fed, than the white convicts. + +The natives have also proved very good shepherds when any of them have +been induced, by proper encouragement and protection, to take charge of a +flock. Tommy Came-first, one of the lads who travelled with me, had +previously tended sheep for a year and had given great satisfaction. + +My experiment with the little native girl, Ballandella, will be useful I +trust in developing hereafter the mental energies of the Australian +aborigines for, by the last accounts from Sydney, I am informed that she +reads as well as any white child of the same age. + + +CHAPTER 3.15. + +Geological specimens collected. +Connection between soil and rocks. +Limestone. +Granite. +Trap-rocks. +Sandstone. +Geological structure and physical outline. +Valleys of excavation. +Extent of that of the Cox. +Quantity of rock removed. +Valley of the Grose. +Wellington Valley. +Limestone caverns. +Description and view of the largest. +Of that containing osseous breccia. +First discovery of bones. +Small cavity and stalagmitic crust. +Teeth found in the floor. +A third cavern. +Breccia on the surface. +Similar caverns in other parts of the country. +At Buree. +At Molong. +Shattered state of the bones. +Important discoveries by Professor Owen. +Gigantic fossil kangaroos. +Macropus atlas. +Macropus titan. +Macropus indeterminate. +Genus Hypsiprymnus, new species, indeterminate. +Genus Phalangista. +Genus Phascolomys. +Ph. mitchellii, a new species. +New Genus Diprotodon. +Dasyurus laniarius, a new species. +General results of Professor Owen's researches. +Age of the breccia considered. +State of the caverns. +Traces of inundation. +Stalagmitic crust. +State of the bones. +Putrefaction had only commenced when first deposited. +Accompanying marks of disruption. +Earthy deposits. +These phenomena compared with other evidence of inundation. +Salt lakes in the interior. +Changes on the seacoast. +Proofs that the coast was once higher above the sea than it is at +present. +Proofs that it was once lower. +And of violent action of the sea. +At Wollongong. +Cape Solander. +Port Jackson. +Broken Bay. +Newcastle. +Tuggerah Beach. +Bass Strait. + +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS COLLECTED. + +As any geological information respecting a country so little known as the +eastern coast of Australia may be acceptable to the public, I venture to +subjoin a few observations on some of the more prominent subjects of my +researches, and I do so with the more confidence because it will appear +how largely I am indebted for the interest they possess to the kindness +of my scientific friends in England. + +CONNECTION BETWEEN SOIL AND ROCKS. + +During the surveys and expeditions I carefully collected specimens at +every important locality, and I have thus been enabled since my return to +England to mark upon my maps the geological structure of the country. By +this means also I have been able to determine the relative value of the +land in the districts recently explored and to compare it with that of +the country previously known. + +By a little attention to the geological structure of Australia we learn +how much the superficial qualities of soil and productions depend upon +it, and where to look for arable spots amid the general barrenness. The +most intelligent surveyors of my department have on several occasions +contributed considerably to my collection. + +Curiosity led me to investigate some of the fossil remains of those +lately discovered regions while my public duties obliged me to study also +the external features of the country; and I have thus been enabled to +draw some inferences respecting various changes which have taken place in +the surface and in the relative level of sea and land. + +The following are the principal rocks which I noticed in the country. + +LIMESTONE. + +Limestone occurs of different ages and quality presenting a considerable +variety. + +1. A light-coloured compact calcareous rock resembling mountain +limestone; at Buree and Wellington, rising, at the former place, to the +height of about 1500 feet above the sea. + +2. A dark grey limestone appears at perhaps a still greater height on the +Shoalhaven river; in immediate contact with granite. + +3. A crystalline variegated marble is found in blocks a few miles +westward of the above, near the Wollondilly. + +4. Another variety of this rock is very abundant in the neighbourhood of +Limestone plains on the interior side of the Coast ranges and near the +principal sources of the Murrumbidgee. This contains corals belonging to +the genus favosites; crinoideae are also found abundantly in the plains +and distinguish this limestone from the others above-mentioned. + +These rocks present little or no appearance of stratification. + +A remarkably projecting ridge on the banks of Peel's river contained +limestone of so peculiar an aspect as to resemble porphyry, and it was +associated with a rock having a base of chocolate-coloured granular +felspar. (See Volume 1.) + +A yellow highly calcareous sandstone, apparently stratified, occurs near +the banks of the Gwydir. Large rounded boulders of argillaceous limestone +have been denuded in the bed of Glendon brook; and an impure limestone is +found in the neighbourhood of William's river, both belonging to the +basin of the Hunter and not much elevated above the sea. Calcareous tuff +or grit may be observed in various localities, and calcareous concretions +abound in the blue clay of almost all the extensive plains on both sides +of the mountains. + +A soft shelly limestone, most probably of recent origin though slightly +resembling some of the oolites of England, occurs extensively on the +southern coast between Cape Northumberland and Portland bay where it +forms the only rock with the exception of amygdaloidal trap. + +GRANITE. + +Granite or granitic compounds are more or less apparent at or near the +sources of the principal rivers; but with the exception of the Southern +Alps and some patches in the counties of Bathurst and Murray this +fundamental rock is visible in Australia only where it appears to have +cracked a thick overlying stratum of ferruginous sandstone. Thus near the +head of the river Cox where the latter attains its greatest elevation, +and from the character of the valley has evidently been violently +disturbed, we find granite in the valley near the bed of the stream. + +Observation 1. Such is the character of the country where the waters +separate, or in the line of greatest elevation which we are accustomed to +term the Coast Range. The general direction of this range is +north-north-east and accords perfectly with the hypothesis of Dr. Fitton, +founded on the general parallelism observed in the range of the strata, +even on the north-western coast, as noticed in his interesting little +volume, the first ever devoted to Australian Geology.* The parallelism so +remarkable in the range of strata in that portion, the general tendency +of the coastlines to a course from the west of south to the east of north +on the mainland, and even in the islands west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, +and a general elevation of the strata towards the south-east, as deduced +from Flinders' remarks, are all facts which should be studied in +connection with the direction of the granite along this part of the +eastern coast. + +(*Footnote. An account of some Geological specimens from the coasts of +Australia by William Henry Fitton, M.D., F.R.S., V.P.G.S., etc. 1826.) + +Observation 2. It may be also observed that the sandstone reposing on the +rock eastward of this division or watershed is slightly inclined towards +the sea, whereas all the sandstone on the interior side, or westward of +it, dips to the north-west. + +TRAP-ROCKS. + +Trap-rocks are displayed in a great variety of situations. They often +occur connected with limestone in valleys, sometimes constitute lofty +ranges as on the north or left bank of the Hunter, and along the seashore +at the Illawarra; they likewise cap the summit of isolated hills, but no +particular place can be assigned to them with reference to the position +of any other rocks. Trap forms a good soil on decomposition as is shown +in the rich districts of the Illawarra, Cowpastures, Valley of the +Hunter, Liverpool Plains, Wellington Valley, and Buree. + +Vesicular lava and amygdaloid are the chief ingredients of some of the +best parts of Australia Felix. In that region volcanic phenomena are more +apparent than in other parts of Eastern Australia, especially where the +Grampians, consisting of a mass of sandstone 4000 feet thick, seem a +portion of the great formation covering the districts of the north. The +strata in these mountains are inclined to the north-west, as if in +obedience to the upheavings of Murroa or Mount Napier, an extinct volcano +in the very line of their outcrop. + +Observation. We found in the interior, hills of sandstone only, but at +this extremity of the great Coast range granite is extensively exposed in +ridges, between which, in one extensive district, are round heights of +mammeloid form, consisting of pure lava, and in another, tabular masses +of trap reposing on granite occupy one side of a valley. + +GRAVEL. + +Beds of gravel are not common in these parts of Australia; but occur +partially in the basins of the larger streams on the interior side of the +Coast range where the pebbles in general consist of quartz. + +SANDSTONE. + +The prevailing geological feature in all Eastern Australia is the great +abundance of a ferruginous sandstone in proportion to any other rocks. +The sterility of the country where it occurs has been frequently noticed +in these volumes. It is found on the coast at Port Jackson and it was the +furthest rock seen by me in the interior beyond the Darling. + +A deposit upwards of 1200 feet thick forms the Blue Mountains west of +Sydney, ranging thence, with the intersection of no other rock of +importance, to the Hawkesbury; and although declining towards the sea at +the rate of only 100 feet per mile, or 1 in 52, or at an angle of about 1 +degree with the horizon; yet it is traversed by ravines which increase in +depth in proportion as the sandstone attains a greater elevation, and +present perpendicular crags and cliffs of a very remarkable character. + +A region consisting of a sandstone deposit of so great thickness and so +slightly inclined necessarily presents a monotonous aspect in all +directions; and when it is compared with European countries composed of +many formations and presenting great diversity of scenery it proves how +much geological structure influences pictorial and physical outlines. +(See Plate 10 Volume 1, also Plate 38 above.) + +In the eastern part of Australia the geologist will certainly find +sections in abundance but they are nearly all of sandstone for, with few +exceptions no other rocks have been denuded in situations similarly +exposed. + +GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE AND PHYSICAL OUTLINE. VALLEYS OF EXCAVATION. EXTENT +OF THAT OF THE COX. + +The ravines which discharge their waters into the little river Cox occupy +an area of 1,212 square miles, or one-half of the county of Westmoreland +on the right or south side of that river, and one-fourth of the county of +Cook on the other. Of this area 796 square miles, equal to one-half of +the county of Westmoreland, are on the right or south side of that river, +and 416, or one-fourth of the county of Cook, on the left. The whole +extent comprises the basin of this mountain stream, and is bounded by +heights rising very gradually from about 1000 feet at the gorge or outlet +of the Cox, to 3,400 feet on the north side at Blackheath, and on the +south to Murruin and Werong, summits of still greater elevation; the +lowest part of the ridge bounding this basin on the west or interior side +being nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Cox's river flows over +a bed of water-worn rocks which, in the upper part of the valley, is +2,150 feet above the sea, and on the road to Bathurst this bed consists +of trap and granite. The river falls rapidly on leaving the granite of +the vale of Clwyd to a level not much above that of the sea, and it +escapes near its junction with the Warragamba from this spacious basin +through a gorge about 2,200 yards wide and flanked on each side by points +about 800 feet high. + +QUANTITY OF ROCK REMOVED. + +Supposing but two-thirds of the enclosed area of sandstone to have been +excavated to the depth of 880 feet only, which I allow as the mean +thickness of the stratum thus broken into, and considering the +inclination of the Cox and other valleys, then 134 CUBIC MILES of stone +must have been removed from this basin of the Cox alone. + +VALLEY OF THE GROSE. + +The valley of the Grose, whose basin is contiguous to that of the Cox on +the north, is of less extent but enclosed by cliffs of greater +perpendicular height. That river has been already described in the +journal, and the general character of the valley through which it flows +is represented in Plate 10 Volume 1.* We now perceive but slight +indications of the action by which the great area of stone in the valley +of the Cox, the Grose etc. has been removed. There are no accumulations +of sand but huge blocks of rock, scarcely worn by attrition, occur in +great abundance in the bed of the stream; neither do we find in the +larger channels of the rivers below any sand deposits, but on the +contrary the very rich alluvium which distinguishes the banks of the +Hawkesbury. + +(*Footnote. This book is already almost too full of plates and I beg to +refer the geological reader to my three-sheet map of the Colony for the +superficial forms and extent of these valleys.) + +WELLINGTON VALLEY. + +In the year 1830, after I had traced out the new line of descent from the +Blue Mountains to the interior country by the pass which I then named +Mount Victoria, I extended my survey to the heights beyond Wellington +Valley. This includes a rich alluvial tract watered by the river Bell, +one of the principal tributaries of the Macquarie, and is about 170 miles +to the westward of Newcastle. It is bounded on each side by a compact +calcareous rock resembling the mountain limestone of England and rising +on the east side to about 100 feet above the Bell. + +On the west side of this valley hills of greater elevation, consisting of +a red sandstone and conglomerate, extend parallel to the limestone; and +on the east side of it is another range composed of trap-rocks. The basis +of a tract still further eastward, dividing the watershed of the interior +from that which sends its streams to the sea is, as has been already +observed, of granite. + +The limestone presents a naked and rugged surface composed of pointed, +weather-worn blocks between which are small crevices leading to caves and +fissures. From these crevices a warm air ascends, accompanied by a smell +peculiar to the caves. The worn aspect of the external rock, resembling +half-dissolved ice, is very remarkable, particularly near the largest +caverns. + +An account of the survey of these caves was communicated to the +Geological Society in a paper read on the 13th of April 1831, of which an +abstract was published in its Proceedings, but the particulars respecting +the animal remains found by me have derived great additional importance +from the discoveries made by Professor Owen since my return to England. I +may be excused therefore for again calling attention to the situation of +those curious caves respecting which the following details are now +published with the consent of the Council of the Society. + +LIMESTONE CAVERNS. + +The entrance to the caves of Wellington Valley is in the side of a low +hill and 65 feet above the adjacent alluvial flat. It consists of two +crevices between large blocks of limestone in one side of a hollow about +12 feet deep; and which has evidently been widened by water. (Plate 41.) + +DESCRIPTION AND VIEW OF THE LARGEST. + +We first descended the fissure at the mouth of the large cave, and then +clambered over great rocks until, at 125 feet from the entrance, we found +these inequalities to be covered by a deep bed of dry, reddish dust, +forming an even floor. This red earth lay also in heaps under lateral +crevices, through which it seemed to have been washed down from above. On +digging to a considerable depth at this point, we found a few fragments +of bone, apparently of the kangaroo. At 180 feet from the mouth is the +largest part of the cavern, the breadth being 25 feet and the height +about 50 feet. The floor consisted of the same reddish earth, but a thick +stalagmitic crust extended for a short distance from a gigantic +stalactite at the further end of the cavern. On again digging several +feet deep into the red earth here we met with no lower layer of +stalagmite nor any animal remains. + +On a corner of the floor behind the stalactite and nearly under a +vertical fissure we found a heap of dry white dust into which one of the +party sunk to the waist.* (G. Plate 44.) + +(*Footnote. The dust when chemically examined by Dr. Turner was found to +consist principally of carbonate of lime with some phosphate of lime and +animal matter. Proceedings of the Geological Society for 1831.) + +Passing through an opening to the left of the stalactite we came upon an +abrupt descent into a lower cavern. Having reached the latter with some +difficulty, we found that its floor was about 20 feet below that of the +cavern above. It was equally level and covered to a great but +unascertained depth with the same dry red earth which had been worn down +about five feet in a hollow or rut. + +A considerable portion of the farthest part of the floor (at H) was +occupied with white dust or ashes similar to that found in the corner of +the upper floor (at G). + +This lower cavern terminated in a nearly vertical fissure which not only +ascended towards the external surface but descended to an unascertained +depth beneath the floor. At about 30 feet below the lowest part of the +cavern it was found to contain water, the surface of which I ascertained +was nearly on a level with that of the river Bell. Having descended by a +rope I found that the water was very transparent but unfit to drink, +having a disagreeable, brackish flavour. + +This lower cavern is much contracted by stalactites and stalagmites. +After having broken through some hollow-sounding portions (at O and N) we +entered two small lateral caverns and in one of these, after cutting +through (at I) about eight inches of stalagmitic floor, we discovered the +same reddish earth. We dug into this deposit also, but discovered no +pebbles or organic fragments; but at the depth of two and a half feet met +with another stalagmitic layer which was not penetrated. This fine red +earth or dust seems to be a sediment that was deposited from water which +stood in the caves about 40 feet below the exterior surface; for the +earth is found exactly at that height both towards the entrance of the +first cavern and in the lateral caverns. (See Plate 44.) + +That this cave had been enlarged by a partial sinking of the floor is not +improbable, as broken stalagmitic columns, and pillars like broken +shafts, once probably in contact with the roof, are still apparent. (See +the view of the largest cavern Plate 43.) + +OF THAT CONTAINING OSSEOUS BRECCIA. + +Eighty feet to the westward of this cave is the mouth of another of a +different description. Here the surface consists of a breccia full of +fragments of bones; and a similar compound, confusedly mixed with large +blocks of limestone, forms the sides of the cavity. This cave presents in +all its features a striking contrast to that already described. Its +entrance is a sort of pit, having a wide orifice nearly vertical, and its +recesses are accessible only by means of ladders and ropes. Instead of +walls and a roof of solid limestone rock we found shattered masses +apparently held together by breccia, also of a reddish colour and full of +fragments of bones. (Plate 45.) The opening in the surface appears to +have been formed by the subsidence of these rocks at the time when they +were hurled down, mixed with breccia, into the position which they still +retain. Bones were but slightly attached to the surface of this cement, +as if it had never been in a very soft state, and this we have reason to +infer also from its being the only substance supporting several large +rocks and at the same time keeping them asunder. On the other hand we +find portions of even very small bones, and also small fragments of the +limestone, dispersed through this cementing substance or breccia. + +FIRST DISCOVERY OF BONES. + +The pit had been first entered only a short time before I examined it by +Mr. Rankin, to whose assistance in these researches I am much indebted. +He went down by means of a rope to one landing-place and then, fixing the +rope to what seemed a projecting portion of rock, he let himself down to +another stage where he discovered, on the fragment giving way, that the +rope had been fastened to a very large bone, and thus these fossils were +discovered. The large bone projected from the upper part of the breccia, +the only substance which supported as well as separated several large +blocks, as shown in the accompanying view of the cave (Plate 45) and it +was covered with a rough tuffaceous encrustation resembling mortar. No +other bone of so great dimensions has since been discovered within the +breccia. (See Figures 12 and 13, Plate 51.) + +From the second landing-place we descended through a narrow passage +between the solid rock on one side and huge fragments chiefly supported +by breccia on the other, the roof being also formed of the latter and the +floor of loose earth and stones. + +SMALL CAVITY AND STALAGMITIC CRUST. + +We then reached a small cavern ending in several fissures choked up with +the breccia. One of these crevices (K. Plate 44) terminated in an +oven-shaped opening in the solid rock (Plate 50) and was completely +filled in the lower part with soft red earth which formed also the floor +in front of it and resembled that in the large cavern already described. +Osseous breccia filled the upper part of this small recess and portions +of it adhered to the sides and roof adjoining, as if this substance had +formerly filled the whole cavity. At about three feet from the floor of +this cavity (Plate 50) the breccia was separated from the loose earth +below by three layers of stalagmitic concretion, each about two inches +thick and three apart; and they appeared to be only the remains of layers +once of greater extension, as fragments of stalagmite adhered to the +sides of the cavity as shown in Plate 50. The spaces between what +remained of these layers were filled with red ochreous matter and bones +embedded partially in the stalagmite. Those in the lower sides of the +layers were most thickly encrusted with tuffaceous matter; those in the +upper surfaces on the contrary were very white and free from the red +ferruginous ochre which filled the cavities of those in the breccia, +although they contained minute transparent crystals of carbonate of lime. + +TEETH FOUND IN THE FLOOR. + +On digging (at K) into the soft red earth forming the floor of this +recess, some fragments of bone, apparently heavier than those in the +breccia, were found, and one portion seemed to have been gnawed by a +small animal. We obtained also in this earth the last phalange of the +greatest toe of a kangaroo, and a small water-worn pebble of quartz. By +creeping about 15 feet under a mass of solid rock which left an opening +less than a foot and a half above the floor, we reached a recess about 15 +feet high and 12 feet wide (L). The floor consisted of dry red earth and, +on digging some feet down, we found fragments of bones, a very large +kangaroo tooth (Figure 6 Plate 47) a large tooth of an unknown animal +(Figures 4 and 5 Plate 51) and one resembling some fragments of teeth +found in the breccia. (See Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, Plate 51.) + +A THIRD CAVERN. + +We next examined a third cave about 100 yards to the westward of the last +described. The entrance, like that of the first, was tolerably easy, but +the descent over the limestone rocks was steeper and very moist and +slimy. Our progress downwards was terminated by water which probably +communicated with the river Bell, as its level was much lower when the +cave was first visited during a dry season. I found very pure iron ochre +in some of the fissures of this cavern but not a fragment of bone. + +BRECCIA ON THE SURFACE. + +Perceiving that the breccia, where it occurred below, extended to the +surface, I directed a pit to be dug on the exterior about 20 feet from +the mouth of the cave and at a part where no rocks projected. (N, Plate +44.) we found that the hill there consisted of breccia only; which was +harder and more compact than that in the cave and abounded likewise in +organic remains. + +Finally I found on the summit of the same hill some weathered blocks of +breccia from which bones protruded, as shown in the accompanying drawing +of a large and remarkable specimen. (Plate 46.) + +SIMILAR CAVERNS IN OTHER PARTS OF THE COUNTRY. + +Other caverns containing breccia of the same description occur in various +parts within a circuit of 50 miles, and they may probably be found +throughout the limestone country not yet examined. + +AT BUREE. + +On the north bank of the Macquarie, 8 miles east from the Wellington +caves, and at Buree, about 50 miles to the south-east of them, I found +this breccia at considerable depths, having been guided to it by certain +peculiar appearances of subsidence and disruption, and by yawning holes +in the surface, which previous experience had taught me to consider as +indications of its existence. + +On entering one of these fissures from the bed of the little stream near +Buree and following, to a considerable distance, the subterraneous +channel of the rivulet, we found a red breccia containing bones as +abundantly as that of Wellington Valley. It occurred also amidst masses +of broken rocks, between which we climbed until we saw daylight above +and, being finally drawn out with ropes, we emerged near the top of a +hill from a hole very similar in appearance to the mouth of the cave at +Wellington, which it also resembled in having breccia both in the sides +of the orifice and in the surface around it. + +AT MOLONG. + +At Molong, 36 miles east of Wellington Valley, I found some concreted +matter within a small cavity of limestone rock on the surface and, when +broken, this proved to be also breccia containing fragments of bone. + +SHATTERED STATE OF THE BONES. + +It was very difficult to obtain any perfect specimens of the remains +contained in the breccia--the smallest of the various portions brought to +England have nevertheless been carefully examined by Professor Owen at +the Hunterian Museum, and I have received from that distinguished +anatomist the accompanying letter containing the result of those +researches and highly important determinations by which he has +established several points of the greatest interest as connected with the +Natural History of the Australian continent. + +IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES BY PROFESSOR OWEN. + +Royal College of Surgeons, May 8th, 1838. + +Dear Sir, + +I have examined, according to your request, the fossil remains which you +discovered in Wellington Valley, Australia, and which are now deposited +in the Museum of the Geological Society; they belong to the following +genera: + +GIGANTIC FOSSIL KANGAROOS. + +MACROPUS Shaw. + +Sp. 1. Macropus atlas. O. This must have been at least one-third larger +than Macropus major, the largest known existing species: it is chiefly +remarkable for the great size of its permanent spurious molar; in which +respect it approaches the subdivision of Shaw's genus, called +Hypsiprymnus by Illiger. The remains of this species consist of a +fragment of the right ramus of the lower jaw. (I*) Figure 1 Plate 47. + +(*Footnote. The numbers and letters within a parenthesis in this letter +refer to labels on the specimens.) + +Sp. 2. Macropus titan. O. I gave this name to an extinct species, as +large as the preceding, but differing chiefly in the smaller size of the +permanent spurious molar; which in this respect more nearly corresponds +with the existing Macropus major. The remains of this species consist of +a fragment of the right ramus of the lower jaw. (II) Figure 3 Plate 47. + +In both the above specimens the permanent false molar is concealed in its +alveolus, and was discovered by removing part of the substance of the +jaw, indicating the nonage of the individuals. + +A portion of cranium with the molar series of teeth of both sides. (II) +Figures 4 and 5 Plate 47. This specimen I believe to belong to Macropus +titan. + +The permanent false molar, which is also concealed in this upper jaw, is +larger than that of the lower jaw of Macropus titan, but I have observed +a similar discrepancy in size in the same teeth of an existing species of +Macropus. + +To one or other of the two preceding gigantic species of kangaroo must be +referred: + +II.a. Crown of right inferior incisor, Figure 6 Plate 47. + +II.b. Lower extremity of right femur. + +II.c. Lower extremity of right femur, with the epiphysis separated, +showing its correspondence in age with the animals to which the fossil +jaws belonged. + +II.d. 5th Lumbar vertebra, Figure 8 Plate 47. + +II.e. 10th or 11th Caudal vertebra. The proportion of this bone indicates +that these great kangaroos had a relatively stouter and perhaps shorter +tail than the existing species. + +Macropus sp. indeterminate. Agrees in size with Macropus major, but there +is a difference in the form of the sacrum: the second vertebra of which +is more compressed--to this species which cannot be determined till the +teeth be found, I refer the specimens marked: + +III. Sacrum. + +III.a. Proximal end of left femur. + +III.b. Proximal end of left tibia, in which the anterior spine sinks more +gradually into the shaft than in Macropus major. As this is the only +species with the skeleton of which I have been enabled to compare the +preceding fragments, I am not able to pronounce as to their specific +distinctness from other existing species of equal size with the Macropus +major. + +Macropus sp. indeterminate. From want of skeletons of existing species of +kangaroo, I must also leave doubtful the specific determination of a +species smaller than Macropus major, represented by the left ramus of the +lower jaw (IV) in which the permanent false molar is in place together +with four true molars, and which would therefore be a species of +Halmaturus of Fred. Cuvier. + +Macropus. + +(V.) Part of the left ramus of the lower jaw, with two grinders in place, +and a third which has not quite cut through the jaw. + +(V.a.) Sixth and seventh grinders according to the order of their +development, right side, upper jaw, of a kangaroo not quite so large as +Macropus major. + +Several other bones and portions of bone are referable to the genus +Macropus, but they do not afford information of sufficient interest or +importance to be specially noticed. + +GENUS HYPSIPRYMNUS. + +Hypsiprymnus, sp. indeterminate. + +(VI.) Figures 1 and 2 Plate 48. A portion of the upper jaw and palate +with the deciduous false molar and four true molars in place on each +side; the fifth or posterior molar is concealed in the alveolus, as also +the crown of the permanent false molar. + +Hypsiprymnus. + +(VI.a.) Figure 3 Plate 48. Part of the right ramus of the lower jaw, +exhibiting a corresponding stage of dentition. + +Observation. This species is rather larger than any of the three species +with the crania of which I have had the opportunity of comparing them: +there is no evidence that it agrees with any existing species. + +GENUS PHALANGISTA. + +(VII.) Cranium, coated with stalactite. + +(VII.a.) Part of right ramus, with spurious and 2nd molar. + +(VII.b.) Right ramus, lower jaw. + +Observation. The two latter specimens disagree with Phalangista vulpina +in having the spurious molar of relatively smaller size, and the 2nd +molar narrower: the symphysis of the lower jaw is also one line deeper in +the fossil. As the two latter specimens agree in size with the cranium, +they probably are all parts of the same species, of which there is no +proof that it corresponds with any existing species. But a comparison of +the fossils with the bones of these species (which are much wanted in our +osteological collections) is obviously necessary to establish the +important fact of the specific difference or otherwise of the extinct +Phalanger. + +GENUS PHASCOLOMYS. + +Sp. Phascolomys mitchellii, a new species. + +(VIII.) Figure 4 Plate 48. Mutilated cranium. + +(VIII.a.) Figure 5 Plate 48. Part of lower jaw belonging to the above. + +(VIII.b.) Figure 6 Plate 48. Right series of molar teeth in situ. + +(VIII.c.) Right ramus of the lower jaw. + +Observation. These remains come nearer to the existing species than do +those of any of the preceding genera; but after a minute comparison I +find that there is a slight difference in the form of the grinders which, +in the fossil, have the antero-posterior diameter greater in proportion +than the transverse; the first grinder also is relatively larger, and of +a more prismatic form; the upper incisors are less compressed and more +prismatic; this difference is so well marked that, once appreciated, +anyone might recognise the fossil by an incisor alone. There is a similar +difference in the shape of the lower incisor. The fossil is also a little +larger than the largest wombat's cranium in the Hunterian Collection. +From these differences I feel no hesitation in considering the species to +which these fossils belong as distinct; and propose to call it +Phascolomys mitchellii. + +NEW GENUS DIPROTODON. + +I apply this name to the genus of Mammalia represented by the anterior +extremity of the right ramus, lower jaw, with a single large procumbent +incisor. + +(IX.) Figure 1 Plate 49. This is the specimen conjectured to have +belonged to the Dugong, but the incisor resembles the corresponding tooth +of the wombat in its enamelled structure and position. See Figure 2 Plate +49 and a section of the wombat's teeth in Figure 7 Plate 48. But it +differs in the quadrilateral figure of its transverse section, in which +it corresponds with the inferior incisors of the hippopotamus. + +To this, or to some distinct species, of equal size, have belonged the +fragments of bones of extremities marked X., X.a., X.b. + +GENUS DASYURUS. + +Dasyurus laniarius, O. A new species. I apply this name to the species to +which the following remains belong. + +(XI.) Figures 3 and 4 Plate 49. Portions of the left side of the upper +jaw. + +(XI.a.) Figure 5 Plate 49. Portions of the left side of the upper jaw. + +(XI.b.) Figure 6. Left ramus lower jaw, with last grinders. + +(XI.c.) Figure 7. Anterior part of the right ramus of lower jaw. + +This species closely resembles Dasyurus ursinus, but differs in being +one-third larger, and in having the canines, or laniaries, of +proportionately larger size. + +The position of the teeth in the specimen marked XI.c. Figure 7, which +are wider apart; leads me to doubt whether it is the lower jaw of +Dasyurus laniarius, or of some extinct marsupial carnivore of an allied +but distinct species. + +GENERAL RESULTS OF PROFESSOR OWEN'S RESEARCHES. + +The general results of the above examination are: + +1. That the fossils are not referable to any known extra-Australian genus +of mammals. + +2. That the fossils are not referable, from the present evidence, to any +existing species of Australian mammal. + +3. That the greater number certainly belong to species either extinct or +not yet discovered living in Australia. + +4. That the extinct species of Macropus, Dasyurus, Phascolomys, +especially Macropus atlas and Macropus titan are larger than the largest +known existing species. + +5. That the remains of the saltatory animals, as the Macropi, Halmaturi, +and Hypsiprymni, are all of young individuals; while those of the +burrowing Wombat, the climbing Phalanger, and the ambulatory Dasyure, are +of adults. + +I remain, dear Sir, etc. + +(Signed) Richard Owen. + +AGE OF THE BRECCIA CONSIDERED. + +Nothing could be discovered in the present state of these caverns at all +likely to throw any light on the history or age of the breccia, but the +phenomena they present seem to indicate more than one change in the +physical outline of the adjacent regions, and probably of more distant +portions of Australia; at a period antecedent to the existing state of +the country. + +STATE OF THE CAVERNS. + +Dry earth occurred in the floor of both the caverns at Wellington Valley +and in the small chamber (Plate 28) of the breccia cave it was found, as +before stated, beneath the three lines of stalagmite and the osseous +breccia. It seems probable therefore that this earth once filled the cave +also to the same line, and that the stalagmite then extended over the +floor of red earth. Moreover I am of opinion that the interval between +the stalagmite and the roof was partly occupied by the bone breccia of +which portions remain attached to the roof and sides above the line of +stalagmite. It is difficult to conceive how the mass of red earth and +stalagmitic floors could be displaced, except by a subsidence in the +original floor of the cave. But the present floor contains no vestiges of +breccia fallen from the roof, nor any remains of the stalagmitic crust +once adhering to the sides, which are both therefore probably deposited +below the present floor. + +In the external or upper part of the same cave, as shown in Plate 45, the +floor consisted of the red dust, and was covered with loose fragments of +rock, apparently fallen from conglomerated masses of limestone and +breccia which also however extended under the red earth there. Thus it +would appear that traces remain in these caverns: First, of an aqueous +deposit in the red earth found below the stalagmite in one cavern, and +beneath breccia in the other. Secondly, of a long dry period, as appears +in the thick crust of stalagmite covering the lowest deposit in the +largest cavern, and during which some cavities were filled with breccia, +even with the external surface. Thirdly, of a subsidence in the breccia +and associated rocks and, lastly, of a deposit of red earth similar to +the first. + +TRACES OF INUNDATION. + +The present floor in both caves bears all the evidence of a deposition +from water which probably filled the interior of the cavern to an unknown +height. It is clear that sediment deposited in this manner would, when +the waters were drawn off, be left in the state of fine mud, and would +become, on drying, a more or less friable earth. + +STALAGMITIC CRUST. + +Any water charged with carbonate of lime which might have been +subsequently introduced would have deposited the calcareous matter in +stalactites or stalagmites; but the general absence of these is accounted +for in the dryness of the caves. This sedimentary floor contained few or +no bones except such as had previously belonged to the breccia, as was +evident from the minuter cavities having been still filled with that +substance. + +I do not pretend to account for the phenomena presented by the caverns, +yet it is evident, from the sediments of mud forming the extensive +margins of the Darling, that at one period the waters of that spacious +basin were of much greater volume than at present, and it is more than +probable that the caves of Wellington Valley were twice immersed under +temporary inundations. I may therefore be permitted to suggest, from the +evidence I am about to detail of changes of level on the coast, that the +plains of the interior were formerly arms of the sea; and that +inundations of greater height have twice penetrated into, or filled with +water, the subterraneous cavities, and probably on their recession from +higher parts of the land, parts of the surface have been altered and some +additional channels of fluviatile drainage hollowed out. The accumulation +of animal remains very much broken and filling up hollow parts of the +surface show at least that this surface has been modified since it was +first inhabited; and these operations appear to have taken place +subsequently to the extinction, in that part of Australia, of the species +whose remains are found in the breccia; and previously to the existence, +in at least the same districts, of the present species. + +STATE OF THE BONES. + +No entire skeleton has been discovered, and very rarely were any two +bones of the same animal found together. On the contrary even the +corresponding fragments of a bone were frequently detected some yards +apart (as for instance those in Figures 2 and 1 Plate 49). + +PUTREFACTION HAD ONLY COMMENCED WHEN FIRST DEPOSITED. + +On the other hand it would appear from the position of the teeth in one +skull (Figure 4 Plate 48) that they were only falling out from +putrefaction at the time the skull was finally deposited in the breccia, +and from the nearly natural position of the smaller bones in the foot of +a dasyurus (Figure 2 Plate 51) it can scarcely be doubted that this part +of the skeleton was imbedded in the cement when the ligaments still bound +the bones together. The united radius and ulna of a kangaroo (Figure 1 +Plate 51) are additional evidence of the same kind; and yet if the bones +have been so separated and dispersed and broken into minute fragments, as +they now appear in this breccia, while they were still bound together by +ligaments, it is difficult to imagine how that could take place under any +natural process with which we are acquainted. + +ACCOMPANYING MARKS OF DISRUPTION. EARTHY DEPOSITS. + +It may however be observed that the breccia is never found below ground +without unequivocal proofs in the rocks accompanying it of disruption and +subsidence, and that the best specimens of single bones have been found +wedged between huge rocks, where the breccia occurs like mortar between +them, in situations eight or ten fathoms underground. + +THESE PHENOMENA COMPARED WITH OTHER EVIDENCE OF INUNDATION. + +That changes have taken place in the relative level of land and sea is +evident from the channel of the Glenelg which is worn in the rock to a +depth of five fathoms below the sea level. The sea must have either +risen, or the earth must have subsided, since that channel was worn by +any current of water for it is now as still as a canal, the tide making a +difference of only a few inches. + +The features on the shores of Port Jackson extend underwater, preserving +the same forms as they have above it; while the bays and coves now +subject only to the ebb and flow of a tide present extensive +ramifications, and can only be considered the submerged valleys of a +surface originally scooped out by erosion at a period when the land stood +higher above the sea. + +SALT LAKES IN THE INTERIOR. + +The hills on the margins of the Australian salt lakes are always on the +north-east side, or opposite that of the prevailing south-west winds. The +formation of these hills is probably due to the action of the wind, the +growth and decomposition of small shells, the carbonate of lime +disengaged by evaporation, and the concretion of calcareous matter and +friable tuff so common in these ridges. + +In two of the most remarkable, Mitre Lake and Greenhill Lake, a portion +of the basin of each, between the hilly curves and the water, was filled +by a dark-coloured perfectly level deposit, apparently of vegetable +mould. This being of a quality different from that of the hills, it would +appear that any process by which these heights may have originated +through the agency of the water adjacent and the wind could not continue +after this different formation had accumulated between them. Accordingly +where this dark-coloured deposit is most extensive the curved hill +concentric with the outer margin seems less perfect; but whether worn by +time or sweeping inundations I cannot pretend to say. + +That some affinity exists between such accumulations and the salt water +in the lakes is the more probable from the present state of those of +Cockajemmy, which occur in the bed of a former current, and between the +rocky sides of a kind of ravine. Even in such a situation a mound of very +firm ground has been formed on the eastern bank of each, and was found +very convenient for the passage of the ravine by the carts of the party. +(See above.) + +In those hills beside salt lakes on the plains a tendency to regular +curvature was the chief feature: the relative situation with respect to +the water and the wind was always the same; while in some cases, where +grassy flats had once been lakes, crescent-shaped green mounds were still +apparent on the north-eastern sides of each. If these remains of salt +water are of less volume than they have been formerly, as may be presumed +from these circumstances; and if the waters according to Professor +Faraday's analysis "are solutions of common salt and, except in strength, +very much resemble those of the ocean,"* we cannot have much difficulty +in believing that the sea deposited the water in these situations at no +very remote period. + +As a dark-coloured soil is also found in the ridges about some of these +lakes we must look deeper for the original cause of such depressions in +those extensive plains; and may attribute them either to cavities or +protuberances in the lower rocks, which may not have been sufficiently +filled or covered by the superincumbent deposits: or they may be due to +partial subsidences in a thin stratum of limestone. + +CHANGES ON THE SEACOAST. PROOFS THAT THE COAST WAS ONCE HIGHER ABOVE THE +SEA THAN IT IS AT PRESENT. PROOFS THAT IT WAS ONCE LOWER. AND OF VIOLENT +ACTION OF THE SEA. + +The sea, probably when higher relatively to the land than it is at +present, appears to have acted with some violence in isolating various +points along the eastern coast; most of which we now find curiously +analogous, in their situation on the southern sides of inlets, and in +being now united to the mainland by mounds of sand. + +AT WOLLONGONG. + +The point of Wollongong was formerly an island and is now only connected +by drifted sandhills with the site of the township. + +CAPE SOLANDER. + +Cape Solander, the south head of Botany Bay, on which Captain Cook first +landed, was evidently once an island though at present connected with the +mainland by the neck of sand which separates Botany Bay from Port +Hacking. + +PORT JACKSON. + +The south head of Port Jackson has also been isolated but is again +connected with the shore of Bellevue between Bondi Bay and Rose Bay, by +drifted hills of sand. The north head appears to have been likewise +isolated. + +BROKEN BAY. + +Barrenjoey, the south head of Broken Bay, is connected only by a low +beach of sand. + +NEWCASTLE. + +The Beacon head of Newcastle was once an island; and the drifted sand +forming the hills on which the town is built has since been thrown up by +the sea. + +TUGGERAH BEACH. + +Brisbane Water, Tuggerah beach, and Lake Macquarie are also striking +proofs of change of the same character as those at Port Jackson, +especially as they occur in a country possessing no inland lakes, and +along a coastline which is very even and straight in other respects. + +BASS STRAIT. + +The line of rocky islets extending across Bass Strait seems to be the +remains of land once continuous between the two shores, probably when the +current was still active in the channel of the Glenelg, and before the +sea had penetrated far within the heads of Port Jackson. + +Thus it would appear that the Australian continent bears marks of various +changes in the relative height of the sea; on its shores and in the +interior; and that the waters have been at some periods much higher and +at another period lower with respect to the land than they are at +present. + +... + + +(APPENDIX 2.1. + +VOCABULARY OF WORDS HAVING THE SAME MEANING IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF +AUSTRALIA. + +APPENDIX 2.2. + +METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT DURING THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW +SOUTH WALES IN 1836.) + +... + + +APPENDIX 2.3. + +EXTRACT FROM THE SYDNEY HERALD OF MAY 21, 1838. + +The murder of Mr. Faithful's servants by the blacks having created a more +than ordinary sensation among the settlers in the interior, we have +obtained the following authentic particulars of that desperate outrage. +It appears that on the morning of the 11th ultimo, a party of men in +charge of Mr. Faithful's sheep on the route to Port Phillip were +preparing to proceed from the Winding Swamp, about 30 miles beyond the +Ovens River, on their way to the Goulburn, where it was understood that +good sheep stations might be had; and while the bullocks were being yoked +the men with the drays heard the shouts of the shepherds crying out for +help. These men, who were at a short distance from the encampment +collecting the sheep, were presently seen running with great speed +towards the dray, pursued by a body of blacks throwing spears after them. +Their companions near the encampment, three of whom were armed with guns, +immediately ran to their assistance, and if possible to drive off the +blacks, who by that time were within 300 or 400 yards of the camp. One of +these men, named Bentley, fired his gun in the air, thinking that such a +display would intimidate them, but it had no effect. The blacks still +came forward, cautiously sheltering themselves behind the trees in their +path until, when within near approach of the adverse party, one came +forward and was in the act of deliberately poising his spear when Bentley +shot him dead and was himself immediately after pierced with three +spears. This unfortunate man was last seen desperately fighting with the +butt-end of his musket. The combat now became general--spears flew in all +directions and several shots were fired without effect, owing to the +caution exercised by the blacks of interposing the trees between +themselves and the defensive party, but still gradually closing upon the +latter. It was now seen that further resistance would be of no avail, and +that in flight lay the only chance of safety, as the blacks continued to +increase in numbers as they advanced. There was fifteen in all of Mr. +Faithful's servants, out of which seven in number were killed by the +blacks, and one other so severely wounded that his recovery is considered +hopeless. When attempting to make their escape a line was opened by the +blacks, consisting of about 150 in number, who thus appeared at the +fugitives' right and left as they passed. At about 100 yards distance +from the scene of this outrage, another strong party of armed blacks was +drawn up, doubtless as a reserve, but they took no part in the contest. +There could not, we are assured, have been fewer than 300 fighting men +present--not an old man was seen among them. The party in charge of the +sheep and cattle had remained at this particular place from the Saturday +previous, waiting the arrival of Mr. George Faithful, who was only a +day's stage behind, and was then momentarily expected. During their stay +every precaution was taken by the overseer and the rest to keep on +friendly terms with the natives, who constantly hovered about the +encampment in groups of 10 or 20 at a time. So friendly did they appear, +that neither the overseer nor any of the men, save Bentley, anticipated +any hostile intention; but his suspicion was excited by the fact of no +women appearing at any time among the blacks, and by finding, while going +his rounds as guard, the night preceding the attack, a large number of +spears, at a short distance from the camp, which he concealed. All the +sheep, except 130, we understand, have been recovered, and some of the +cattle; the remainder, it is expected, may also be recovered when a party +sufficiently strong to protect themselves from the blacks can be formed +to go in search of them. + +... + +(APPENDIX 2.4. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF POUNDS OF WOOL IMPORTED FROM NEW SOUTH WALES +AND FROM VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, DISTINGUISHING EACH YEAR. + +APPENDIX 2.5. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF SHIPS, AND THEIR TONNAGE, CLEARED OUT TO NEW +SOUTH WALES AND VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, DISTINGUISHING EACH +YEAR. + +APPENDIX 2.6. + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE NUMBER OF SHIPS, AND THEIR TONNAGE, REPORTED INWARDS +FROM NEW SOUTH WALES AND VAN DIEMEN'S LAND FROM 1820 TO 1837, +DISTINGUISHING EACH YEAR.) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Expeditions into the Interior of +Eastern Australia, Vol 2 (of 2), by Thomas Mitchell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EASTERN AUSTRALIA, VOL. 2 *** + +***** This file should be named 13033-0.txt or 13033-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/3/13033/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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