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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Pioneers in Canada, by Sir Harry Johnston</title>
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13003 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Pioneers in Canada, by Sir Harry Johnston,
+Illustrated by E. Wallcousins</h1>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<a name="image-0001"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc01.jpg" width="282" height="450"
+alt="Type of Ship Sailed in by the English Or French
+Pioneers in the Sixteenth Century
+">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>TYPE OF SHIP SAILED IN BY THE ENGLISH OR FRENCH
+PIONEERS<br>
+IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY</h5>
+<hr>
+<a name="top"></a>
+<h1>
+ PIONEERS IN CANADA
+</h1>
+<br>
+<h2>
+ By SIR HARRY JOHNSTON
+</h2>
+<p class="note">
+ G.C.M.G., K.C.B.
+</p>
+<br>
+<p class="note">
+ <i>WITH EIGHT COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS<br> BY E. WALLCOUSINS</i>
+</p>
+<center>
+<img src="images/tp.jpg" width="130" height="150"
+alt="title page decoration">
+</center>
+<h5>1912</h5>
+<hr>
+<p class="note3">
+ <big><b>The Pioneer Library</b></big><br><br>
+
+ A standard series by Sir Harry<br>
+ Johnston. Tastefully bound.<br><br>
+
+ <b>Pioneers in Australasia</b>.<br>
+ <b>Pioneers in Canada</b>. <br>
+ <b>Pioneers in South Africa</b>. <br>
+ <b>Pioneers in West Africa</b>. <br>
+ <b>Pioneers in Tropical America</b>. <br>
+ <b>Pioneers in India</b>.
+</p>
+<br>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2H_PREF"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ PREFACE
+</h2>
+<br>
+<p>
+ I have been asked to write a series of works which should deal with
+ "real adventures", in parts of the world either wild and uncontrolled
+ by any civilized government, or at any rate regions full of dangers,
+ of wonderful discoveries; in which the daring and heroism of white men
+ (and sometimes of white women) stood out clearly against backgrounds
+ of unfamiliar landscapes, peopled with strange nations, savage tribes,
+ dangerous beasts, or wonderful birds. These books would again and
+ again illustrate the first coming of the white race into regions
+ inhabited by people of a different type, with brown, black, or yellow
+ skins; how the European was received, and how he treated these races
+ of the soil which gradually came under his rule owing to his superior
+ knowledge, weapons, wealth, or powers of persuasion. The books were to
+ tell the plain truth, even if here and there they showed the white man
+ to have behaved badly, or if they revealed the fact that the American
+ Indian, the Negro, the Malay, the black Australian was sometimes cruel
+ and treacherous.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A request thus framed was almost equivalent to asking me to write
+ stories of those pioneers who founded the British Empire; in any case,
+ the first volumes of this series do relate the adventures of those who
+ created the greater part of the British Dominions beyond the Seas, by
+ their perilous explorations of unknown lands and waters. In many
+ instances the travellers were all unconscious of their destinies, of
+ the results which would arise from their actions. In some cases they
+ would have bitterly railed at Fate had they known that the result of
+ their splendid efforts was to be the enlargement of an empire under
+ the British flag. Perhaps if they could know by now that we are
+ striving under that flag to be just and generous to all types of men,
+ and not to use our empire solely for the benefit of English-speaking
+ men and women, the French who founded the Canadian nation, the Germans
+ and Dutch who helped to create British Africa, Malaysia, and
+ Australia, the Spaniards who preceded us in the West Indies, and the
+ Portuguese in West, Central, and East Africa, in Newfoundland and
+ Ceylon, might&mdash;if they have any consciousness or care for things in
+ this world&mdash;be not so sorry after all that we are reaping where they
+ sowed.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It is (as you will see) impossible to tell the tale of these early
+ days in the British Dominions beyond the Seas, without describing here
+ and there the adventures of men of enterprise and daring who were not
+ of our own nationality. The majority, nevertheless, were of British
+ stock; that is to say, they were English, Welsh, Scots, Irish, perhaps
+ here and there a Channel Islander and a Manxman; or Nova Scotians,
+ Canadians, and New Englanders. The bulk of them were good fellows, a
+ few were saints, a few were ruffians with redeeming features.
+ Sometimes they were common men who blundered into great discoveries
+ which will for ever preserve their names from perishing; occasionally
+ they were men of Fate, predestined, one might say, to change the
+ history of the world by their revelations of new peoples, new lands,
+ new rivers, new lakes, snow mountains, and gold mines. Here and there
+ is a martyr like Marquette, or Livingstone, or Gordon, dying for the
+ cause of a race not his own. And others again are mere boys, whose
+ adventures come to them because they are adventurous, and whose feats
+ of arms, escapes, perils, and successes are quite as wonderful as
+ those attributed to the juvenile heroes of Marryat, Stevenson, and the
+ author of <i>The Swiss Family Robinson</i>.
+</p>
+<p>
+ I have tried, in describing these adventures, to give my readers some
+ idea of the scenery, animals, and vegetation of the new lands through
+ which these pioneers passed on their great and small purposes; as well
+ as of the people, native to the soil, with whom they came in contact.
+ And in treating of these subjects I have thought it best to give the
+ scientific names of the plant or animal which was of importance in my
+ story, so that any of my readers who were really interested in natural
+ history could at once ascertain for themselves the exact type alluded
+ to, and, if they wished, look it up in a museum, a garden, or a
+ natural history book.
+</p>
+<p>
+ I hope this attempt at scientific accuracy will not frighten away
+ readers young and old; and, if you can have patience with the author,
+ you will, by reading this series of books on the great pioneers of
+ British West Africa, Canada, Malaysia, West Indies, South Africa, and
+ Australasia, get a clear idea of how the British Colonial Empire came
+ to be founded.
+</p>
+<p>
+ You will find that I have often tried to tell the story in the words
+ of the pioneers, but in these quotations I have adopted the modern
+ spelling, not only in my transcript of the English original or
+ translation, but also in the place and tribal names, so as not to
+ puzzle or delay the reader. Otherwise, if you were to look out some of
+ the geographical names of the old writers, you might not be able to
+ recognize them on the modern atlas. The pronunciation of this modern
+ geographical spelling is very simple and clear: the vowels are
+ pronounced <i>a</i> = ah, <i>e</i> = eh, <i>i</i> = ee, <i>o</i> = o, <i>ô</i> = oh,
+ <i>&#333;</i> = aw, <i>ö</i> = u in 'hurt', and <i>u</i> = oo, as in German, Italian, or
+ most other European languages; and the consonants as in English.
+</p>
+<p class="ar">
+ <big>H. H. J</big>OHNSTON.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+
+
+<div style="height: 3em;"><br><br><br></div>
+
+<a name="contents"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+ <h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_PREF">Preface</a>
+</p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_LIST">
+List of Illustrations
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2H_AUTH">
+List of the Chief Authorities
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0001">
+I. THE WHITE MAN'S DISCOVERY OF NORTH AMERICA
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0002">
+II. JACQUES CARTIER
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0003">
+III. ELIZABETHAN PIONEERS IN NORTH AMERICA
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0004">
+IV. CHAMPLAIN AND THE FOUNDATION OF CANADA
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0005">
+V. AFTER CHAMPLAIN: FROM MONTREAL TO THE MISSISSIPPI
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0006">
+VI. THE GEOGRAPHICAL CONDITIONS OF THE CANADIAN DOMINION
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0007">
+VII. THE AMERINDIANS AND ESKIMO: THE ABORIGINES OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0008">
+VIII. THE HUDSON BAY EXPLORERS AND THE BRITISH CONQUEST OF ALL CANADA
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0009">
+IX. THE PIONEERS FROM MONTREAL: ALEXANDER HENRY THE ELDER
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0010">
+X. SAMUEL HEARNE
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0011">
+XI. ALEXANDER MACKENZIE'S JOURNEYS
+</a></p>
+<p class="toc"><a href="#2HCH0012">
+XII. MACKENZIE'S SUCCESSORS
+</a></p>
+
+<div style="height: 3em;"><br><br><br></div>
+
+
+<a name="2H_LIST"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+<h3>
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+</h3>
+<center><small>
+ COLOURED PLATES</small>
+</center>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0001">
+ Type of Ship sailed in by the English or French Pioneers in the
+ Sixteenth Century</a> <small><i>Frontispiece</i></small>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0003">
+ Icebergs and Polar Bears</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0005">
+ Indians hunting Bison</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0007">
+ Indians lying in wait for Moose</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0009">
+ Caribou swimming a River</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0011">
+ Great Auks, Gannets, Puffins, and Guillemots</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0013">
+ Scene on Canadian River: Wild Swans flying up, disturbed by Bear</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0016">
+ Big-horned Sheep of Rocky Mountains</a>
+</p>
+<br>
+<center>
+ <small>BLACK-AND-WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS</small>
+</center>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0002">
+ Jacques Cartier</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0004">
+ Samuel de Champlain and Alexander Henry the Elder</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0008">
+ An Amerindian Type of British Columbia</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0014">
+ Lake Louise, the Rocky Mountains</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0015">
+ Samuel Hearne and Alexander Mackenzie</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0017">
+ The Upper Waters of the Fraser River</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0019">
+ The Kootenay or Head Stream of the Columbia River</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0020">
+ A Hunter's "Shack" in British Columbia: After a successful Shoot of
+ Blue Grouse</a>
+</p>
+<br>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0006">
+ Map of Canada</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0012">
+ Map of Eastern Canada and Newfoundland</a>
+</p>
+<p class="itoc"><a href="#image-0018">
+ Map of Part of the Coast Region of British Columbia</a>
+</p>
+<br>
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="2H_AUTH"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ List of the Chief Authorities
+</h2>
+<p class="note2">
+ FROM WHOM THE PRINCIPAL FACTS AND INCIDENTS OF THIS BOOK HAVE BEEN
+ DERIVED, IN ADDITION TO THE AUTHOR'S OWN RESEARCHES AND EXPERIENCES,
+ AND INFORMATION SUPPLIED BY PROFESSOR R. RAMSAY WRIGHT, OF TORONTO
+ UNIVERSITY
+</p>
+<br>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>The Saint Lawrence Basin</b>. By Dr. S.E. DAWSON. London. 1905.
+ Lawrence &amp; Bullen.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier au Canada en
+ 1534</b>; Documents inédits, &amp;c. Publiés par H. MICHELANT et A. RAME.
+ Paris. Librairie Tross. 1867.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Voyage de Jacques Cartier au Canada en 1534</b>, &amp;c. Par H.
+ MICHELANT. Paris. 1865.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Champlain's Voyages</b>: The Publications of the Prince Society.
+ Boston. 1878. Three volumes.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Voyage of Verrazano</b>, &amp;c. By HENRY C. MURPHY. New York. 1875.
+ (Also the Essay on the Journeys of Verrazano, by Alessandro Bacchiani,
+ in the Bollettino della Societá Geografica Italiana. Rome. November,
+ 1909.)
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Volume IX of the Proceedings and Transactions of the Royal Society of
+ Canada</b>. (For the History of Cape Breton and of the Beothiks of
+ Newfoundland.)
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>The Search for the Western Sea</b>. By Lawrence J. Burpee. London.
+ Alston Rivers. 1908.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Travels and Explorations of the Jesuit Missionaries in New
+ France</b>, &amp;c. Edited by REUBEN GOLD THWAITES. Vol. LIX. Cleveland,
+ U.S.A. Burrows Bros. 1900.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Travels and Explorations in Canada and the Indian Territories between
+ the years 1760 and 1776</b>. By ALEXANDER HENRY, Esq. New York. 1809.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Voyages from Montreal on the River St. Lawrence through the Continent
+ of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, in the years 1789
+ and 1793</b>, &amp;c. &amp;c. By ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, Esq. London. 1801.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>A Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort in Hudson's Bay to the Northern
+ Ocean</b>, &amp;c. By SAMUEL HEARNE. London. 1795.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Les Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord-Ouest</b>. By L.R. MASSON.
+ Quebec. 1890. Two volumes.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>New Light on the Early History of the Greater North-West</b>: The
+ Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry, Jun., and of David Thompson.
+ Edited by ELLIOTT COUES. Three Volumes. New York. Harper. 1897.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada</b>. By DAVID T. HANBURY.
+ London. Edward Arnold. 1904.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>Henry Hudson the Navigator</b>, &amp;c. By G.M. ASHER. London. Hakluyt
+ Society, 1860.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>The Three Voyages of Martin Frobisher</b>. By Rear-Admiral RICHARD
+ COLLINSON. London. Hakluyt Society. 1867.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>The Voyages and Works of John Davis the Navigator</b>. By Admiral Sir
+ ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM. London. Hakluyt Society. 1880.
+</p>
+<p class="ref">
+ <b>The Voyages of William Baffin, 1612-1622</b>. By Sir CLEMENTS R.
+ MARKHAM. London. 1881.
+</p>
+<br>
+<hr>
+<a name="2HCH0001"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER I
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ The White Man's Discovery of North America
+</h3>
+<p>
+ So far as our knowledge goes, it is almost a matter of certainty that
+ Man originated in the Old World&mdash;in Asia possibly. Long after this
+ wonderful event in the Earth's history, when the human species was
+ spread over a good deal of Asia, Europe, and Africa, migration to the
+ American continents began in attempts to find new feeding grounds and
+ unoccupied areas for hunting and fishing. How many thousands or
+ hundreds of thousands of years ago it was since the first men entered
+ America we do not yet know, any more than we can determine the route
+ by which they travelled from Asia. Curiously enough, the oldest traces
+ of man as yet discovered in the New World are not only in South
+ America, but in the south-eastern parts of South America. Although the
+ most obvious recent land connection between the Old and New Worlds is
+ the Aleutian chain of islands connecting Kamschatka with Alaska, the
+ ethnologist is occasionally led to think by certain evidence that
+ there may, both earlier and later, have existed another way of
+ reaching western America from south-eastern Asia through Pacific
+ archipelagoes and islets now sunk below the sea. In any case it seems
+ quite probable that men of Mongolian or Polynesian type reached
+ America on its western coasts long before the European came from the
+ north-east and east, and that they were helped on this long journey by
+ touching at islands since submerged by earthquake shocks or tidal
+ waves.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The aboriginal natives of North and South America seem to be of
+ entirely Asiatic origin; and such resemblances as there are between
+ the North-American Indians and the peoples of northern Europe do not
+ arise (we believe) from any ancient colonization of America from
+ western or northern Europe, but mainly from the fact that the
+ North-American Indians and the Eskimo (two distinct types of people)
+ are descended from the same human stocks as the ancient populations of
+ the northern part of Europe and Asia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It was&mdash;we think&mdash;from the far <i>north-west</i> of Europe that America was
+ first visited by the true White man, though there has been an ancient
+ immigration of imperfect "White" men (Ainu) from Kamschatka. Three or
+ four hundred years after the birth of Christ there were great race
+ movements in northern and central Europe, due to an increase of
+ population and insufficiency of food. Not only did these white
+ barbarians (though they were not as barbarous as we were led to think
+ by Greek and Roman literature) invade southern Europe, North Africa,
+ and Asia Minor, but from the fourth century of the Christian era
+ onwards they began to cross over to England and Scotland. At the same
+ time they took more complete possession of Scandinavia, driving north
+ before their advance the more primitive peoples like the Lapps and
+ Finns, who were allied to the stock from which arose both the Eskimo
+ and the Amerindian.<a name="1-1"></a><a href="#note-1-1"><small>[1]</small></a> All this time the Goths and Scandinavians
+ were either learning ideas of navigation from the Romans of the
+ Mediterranean or the Greeks of the Black Sea, or they were inventing
+ for themselves better ways of constructing ships; and although they
+ propelled them mainly by oars, they used masts and sails as well.<a name="1-2"></a><a href="#note-1-2"><small>[2]</small></a>
+ Having got over the fear of the sea sufficiently to reach the coasts
+ of England and Scotland, the Hebrides, Orkneys, and Shetlands, they
+ became still more venturesome in their voyages from Norway, until they
+ discovered the Faroe Archipelago (which tradition says they found
+ inhabited by wild sheep), and then the large island of Iceland, which
+ had, however, already been reached and settled by the northern Irish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Iceland, though it lies so far to the north that it is partly within
+ the Arctic Circle, is, like Norway, Scotland, and Ireland, affected by
+ the Gulf Stream, so that considerable portions of it are quite
+ habitable. It is not almost entirely covered with ice, as Greenland
+ is; in fact, Iceland should be called Greenland (from the large extent
+ of its grassy pastures), and Greenland should be called Iceland.
+ Instead of this, however, the early Norwegian explorers called these
+ countries by the names they still bear.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Norse rovers from Norway and the Hebrides colonized Iceland from
+ the year 850; and about a hundred and thirty-six years afterwards, in
+ their venturesome journeys in search of new lands, they reached the
+ south-east and south-west coasts of Greenland. Owing to the glacial
+ conditions and elevated character of this vast continental island
+ (more than 500,000 sq. miles in area)&mdash;for the whole interior of
+ Greenland rises abruptly from the sea-coast to altitudes of from 5000
+ to 11,000 ft.&mdash;this discovery was of small use to the early Norwegians
+ or their Iceland colony. After it was governed by the kingdom of
+ Norway in the thirteenth century, the Norse colonization of south-west
+ Greenland faded away under the attacks of the Eskimo, <a name="p18"></a>until it ceased
+ completely in the fifteenth century. When Denmark united herself with
+ the kingdom of Norway in 1397, the Danish king became also the ruler
+ of Iceland. In the eighteenth century the Norwegian and Danish
+ settlements were re-established along the south-east and south-west
+ coasts of Greenland, mainly on account of the value of the whale,
+ seal, and cod fisheries in the seas around this enormous frozen
+ island; and all Greenland is now regarded as a Danish possession.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the adventurous Norsemen who first reached Greenland from Iceland
+ attempted to push their investigations farther to the south-west, in
+ the hope of discovering more habitable lands; and in this way it was
+ supposed that their voyages extended as far as Massachusetts and Rhode
+ Island, but in all probability they reached no farther than
+ Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. This portion of North America they
+ called "Vinland", more from the abundance of cranberries (<i>vinbær</i>) on
+ the open spaces than the few vines to be found in the woods of Nova
+ Scotia.<a name="1-3"></a><a href="#note-1-3"><small>[3]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ This brings us down to the year 1008. The Icelandic Norsemen then
+ ceased their investigations of the North-American Continent, and were
+ too ignorant to realize the value of their discoveries. Their colonies
+ on the coasts of Nova Scotia ("Vinland") and Newfoundland
+ ("Estotiland") were attacked probably by Eskimos, at any rate by a
+ short, thick-set, yellow-skinned ugly people whom the Norsemen called
+ "Skræling",<a name="1-4"></a><a href="#note-1-4"><small>[4]</small></a> who overcame the unfortunate settlers, murdered some,
+ and carried off others into the interior.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But about this period, when Europe was going through that dismal era,
+ the Dark Age which followed the downfall of the Roman Empire of the
+ west, various impulses were already directing the attention of
+ European adventurers to the Western Ocean, the Atlantic. One cause was
+ the increased hold of Roman and Greek Christianity over the peoples of
+ Europe. These Churches imposed fasts either for single days or for
+ continuous periods. When people fasted it meant that they were chiefly
+ denied any form of meat, and therefore must eat fish if they were not
+ content with oil, bread, or vegetables. So that there was an enormous
+ and increasing demand for fish, not only amongst those fortunate
+ people who lived by the seashore, and could get it fresh whenever they
+ liked, but among those who lived at a distance inland, and were still
+ required to fast when the Church so directed. Of course in many parts
+ of Europe they could get freshwater fish from the rivers or lakes. But
+ the supply was not equal to the demand; and fish sent up from the
+ seacoast soon went bad, so that the plan of salting and curing fish
+ was adopted. The Norsemen found it a paying business to fish
+ industriously in the seas round Iceland, Norway, Scotland, and
+ Ireland, salt and cure the fish, and then carry it to more southern
+ countries, where they exchanged it against wine, oil, clothing
+ materials, and other goods. This led to the Venetians (who had
+ absorbed so much of the carrying trade of the Mediterranean) sending
+ their ships through the Straits of Gibraltar into the northern seas
+ and trading with the Baltic for amber and salt fish. In the course of
+ this trade some Venetians, such as Antonio Zeno, found their way to
+ Norway and Iceland.<a name="1-5"></a><a href="#note-1-5"><small>[5]</small></a> It is thought that by this means Venice became
+ acquainted with the records of the Icelandic voyages to North
+ America, and that her explorers thus grew to entertain the idea of a
+ sea journey westward, or north-westward, of Britain, bringing mariners
+ to a New World represented by the far-eastern extension of Asia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Christopher Columbus, the Genoese, conceived a similar idea, which
+ also may have owed something to the tradition of the Norsemen's
+ discovery of Vinland. But Columbus's theories were based on better
+ evidence, such as the discovery on the coasts of the Azores
+ archipelago, Madeira, and Portugal of strange seeds, tree trunks,
+ objects of human workmanship, and even (it is said) the bodies of
+ drowned savages&mdash;Amerindians&mdash;which had somehow drifted across, borne
+ by the current of the Gulf Stream, and escaping the notice of the
+ sharks.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Whilst Columbus was bestirring himself to find Asia across the
+ Atlantic, a sea pilot, JOHN CABOT (Zuan Cabota)&mdash;Genoese by birth, but
+ a naturalized subject of Venice&mdash;came to England and offered himself
+ to King Henry VII as a discoverer of new lands across the ocean. At
+ first he was employed at Copenhagen to settle fishery quarrels about
+ Iceland, and probably Cabota, or Cabot, visited Iceland in King
+ Henry's service, and there heard of the Icelandic colonies on the
+ other side of the Atlantic, only recently abandoned.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1496 King Henry VII provided money to cover some of the expense of
+ a voyage of discovery to search for the rumoured island across the
+ ocean. The people of Bristol were ordered to assist John Cabot, and by
+ them he was furnished with a small sailing ship, the <i>Matthew</i>, and a
+ crew of fifteen mariners. Cabot, with his two sons, Luis and Sancio,
+ sailed for Ireland and the unknown West in May, 1497, and, after a sea
+ voyage quite as wonderful as that of Columbus, reached the coast of
+ Cape Breton Island (or "the New Isle", as it was first named<a name="1-6"></a><a href="#note-1-6"><small>[6]</small></a>) on
+ June 24, 1497. They found "the land excellent, and the climate
+ temperate". The sea was so full of fish along these coasts that the
+ mariners opined (truly) that henceforth Bristol need not trouble about
+ the Iceland trade. Here along this "new isle" were the predestined
+ fisheries of Britain.<a name="1-7"></a><a href="#note-1-7"><small>[7]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ They encountered no inhabitants, though they found numerous traces of
+ their existence in the form of snares, notched trees, and bone netting
+ needles. John Cabot hoisted the English flag of St. George and the
+ Venetian standard of St. Mark; then&mdash;perhaps after coasting a little
+ along Nova Scotia&mdash;fearful that a longer stay might cause them to run
+ short of provisions, he turned the prow of the <i>Matthew</i> eastward, and
+ reached Bristol once more about August 6, and London on August 10,
+ 1497, with his report to King Henry VII, who rewarded him with a
+ donation of £10. He was further granted a pension of £20 a year (which
+ he only drew for two years, probably because he died after returning
+ from a second voyage to the North-American coast), and he received a
+ renewal of his patent of discovery in February, 1498. In this patent
+ it is evidently inferred that King Henry VII assumed a sovereignty
+ over these distant regions because of John Cabot's hoisting of the
+ English flag on "the new Isle" (Cape Breton Island) in the preceding
+ year.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The new expedition of 1498 was a relatively important affair. The
+ king assisted to finance the ventures of the Bristol captains, and
+ five of his ships formed part of the little fleet. It is probable that
+ John Cabot was in command, and almost certain that his young son
+ Sebastian was a passenger, possibly an assistant pilot. The course
+ followed lay much farther to the north, and brought the little sailing
+ vessels amongst the icebergs, ice floes, polar bears, and stormy seas
+ of Greenland and Labrador. Commercially the voyage was a failure,
+ almost a disaster. The ships returned singly, and after a considerable
+ interval of time. Nevertheless, some of the king's loans were repaid
+ to him; and in 1501 a regular chartered company was formed (perhaps at
+ Bristol), with three Bristolians and three Portuguese as directors.
+ Henry VII not only gave a royal patent to this association, but lent
+ more money to enable it to explore and colonize these new lands across
+ the western sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ There can be little doubt that between 1498 and 1505 these Bristol
+ ships, directed by Italian, English, and Portuguese pilots, first
+ revealed to the civilized world of western Europe the coasts of
+ Newfoundland, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Massachusetts, and
+ Delaware. They must have got as far south as the State of Delaware
+ (according to Sebastian Cabot, their southern limit was lat. 38°),
+ because in 1505 they were able to bring back parrots ("popyngays"), as
+ well as hawks and lynxes ("catts of the mountaigne"), for the
+ delectation of King Henry; and parrots even at that period could not
+ have been obtained from farther north than the latitude of New
+ York.<a name="1-8"></a><a href="#note-1-8"><small>[8]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ But after 1505 English interest in "the Newe founde launde" and the
+ "Newe Isle" languished; the exploration of North America was taken up
+ and carried farther by Portuguese, Bretons and Normans of France,
+ Italians, and Spaniards.<a name="1-9"></a><a href="#note-1-9"><small>[9]</small></a> It revived again under Henry VIII, owing
+ to the irresistible attraction of the Newfoundland fisheries and the
+ knowledge that the ships from France were returning every autumn with
+ great supplies of fish cured and salted; for an adequate supply of
+ salt fish was becoming a matter of great importance to the markets of
+ western Europe. In 1527 Henry VIII sent two ships under the command of
+ John Rut to explore the North-American coast, and Captain Rut seems
+ to have reached the Straits of Belle Isle between Newfoundland
+ and Labrador (then blocked with ice so that he took them for
+ a bay), and afterwards to have passed along the east coast of
+ Newfoundland&mdash;already much frequented by the Bretons, Normans, and
+ Portuguese&mdash;and to have stopped at the harbour of St. John's, thence
+ sailing as far south as Massachusetts.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Portuguese monarchy had begun to take possession of the Azores
+ archipelago from the year 1432. These islands were probably known to
+ the Phoenicians, and even to the Arabs of the Middle Ages; between the
+ fourteenth and fifteenth centuries they had been rediscovered by
+ Catalans, Genoese, Flemings, and Portuguese; and after 1444 the Azores
+ began to prove very useful to the sea adventurers of this wonderful
+ fifteenth century, as they became a shelter and a place of call for
+ fresh water and provisions almost in the middle of the Atlantic, 800
+ to 1000 miles due west of Portugal. Portuguese vessels sailed
+ northwards from the Azores in search of fishing grounds, and thus
+ reached Iceland, which they called Terra do Bacalhao.<a name="1-10"></a><a href="#note-1-10"><small>[10]</small></a> They may
+ even before Cabot have visited in an unrecorded fashion the wonderful
+ banks of Newfoundland&mdash;an immense area of shallow sea swarming with
+ codfish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As soon as the news of the Cabot voyages reached the King of Portugal
+ he arranged to send an expedition of discovery to the far north-west,
+ perhaps to find a northern sea route to Eastern Asia. He gave the
+ command to Gaspar Corte-Real, a Portuguese noble connected through
+ family property with the Azores. Starting from the Azores in the
+ summer of 1500, Corte-Real discovered Newfoundland, and called it
+ "Terra Verde" from its dense woods of fir trees, which are now being
+ churned into wood pulp to make paper for British books and newspapers.
+ He then sailed along the coast of Labrador,<a name="1-11"></a><a href="#note-1-11"><small>[11]</small></a> and thence crossed
+ over to Greenland, the southern half of which he mapped with fair
+ accuracy. His records of this voyage take particular note of the great
+ icebergs off the coast of Greenland. His men were surprised to find
+ that sea water frozen becomes perfectly fresh&mdash;all the salt is left
+ out in the process. So that his two ships could supply themselves
+ with fresh water of the purest, by hacking ice from the masses
+ floating in these Greenland summer seas. The next year he started
+ again, but on a more westerly course. His two ships reached the coasts
+ of New Jersey and Massachusetts, and sailed north once more to
+ Labrador. They captured a number of Amerindian aborigines, but only
+ one of the two ships (with seven of these savages on board) reached
+ Portugal; Gaspar Corte-Real was never heard of again. His brother
+ Miguel went out in search of him, but he likewise disappeared without
+ a trace.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nevertheless these Portuguese expeditions to North America have left
+ ineffaceable traces in the geography of the Newfoundland coast, of
+ which (under the name of Terra Nova<a name="1-12"></a><a href="#note-1-12"><small>[12]</small></a>) the governorship was made
+ hereditary in the Corte-Real family. Cape Race for example&mdash;the most
+ prominent point of the island&mdash;is really the Portuguese <i>Cabo
+ Raso</i>&mdash;the bare or "shaved" cape&mdash;and this was by the Spaniards
+ regarded as the westernmost limit of Portuguese sovereignty in that
+ direction. For the Spaniards were by no means pleased at the intrusion
+ of other nations into a New World which they desired to monopolize
+ entirely for the Spanish Crown. They did not so much mind sharing it,
+ along the line agreed upon in the Treaty of Tordesillas, with the
+ Portuguese, but the ingress of the English and French infuriated them.
+ The Basque people of the north-east corner of Spain were a hardy
+ seafaring folk, especially bold in the pursuit of whales in the Bay of
+ Biscay, and eager to take a share in the salt-fish trade. This desire
+ took them in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries to Ireland and
+ Iceland. They began to fish off the Newfoundland coasts perhaps as
+ early as 1525. About this time also the Emperor Charles V, King of
+ Spain, having through one great Portuguese sea captain&mdash;Magalhães
+ (Magellan)&mdash;discovered the passage from Atlantic to Pacific across
+ the extremity of South America, thought by employing another
+ Portuguese&mdash;Estevão Gomez&mdash;to find a similar sea route through North
+ America, which would prove a short cut from Europe to China. This was
+ the famous "North-west Passage" the search for which drew so many
+ great and brave adventurers into the Arctic sea of America between
+ 1500 and 1853, to be revealed at last by our fellow countrymen, but to
+ prove useless to navigation on account of the enormous accumulation of
+ ice.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Gomez left Corunna in the winter of 1524-5, and reached the
+ North-American coast somewhere about Florida. He probably only began
+ to investigate closely after he passed into the broad gulf of Maine,
+ between Cape Cod and Nova Scotia. Here he sighted from the sea the
+ lofty mountains of New Hampshire, and steered for the mouth of the
+ Penobscot River (which he named the River of Deer), a title which
+ sticks to the locality&mdash;in Deer Island&mdash;at the present day. But this
+ being no opening of a broad strait, he passed on into the Bay of Fundy
+ (from Portuguese word, <i>Fundo</i>, the bottom of a sack or passage),
+ explored its two terminal gulfs, then returned along the coast of Nova
+ Scotia,<a name="1-13"></a><a href="#note-1-13"><small>[13]</small></a> past Cape Sable, and so to the "gut" or Canal of Canso.
+ Gomez realized that Cape Breton was an island (we now know that it is
+ two islands separated by a narrow watercourse), but thought that Cabot
+ Strait was a great bay, and guessed nothing of the Gulf of St.
+ Lawrence, and the chance of securing for Spain the possession of this
+ mighty waterway into the heart of North America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From Cape North he crossed over to the south coast of Newfoundland,
+ and followed this more or less till he came to Cape Race. Newfoundland
+ was a "very cold and savage land", and Gomez decided it was no use
+ prosecuting any farther his enquiry as to a water passage across North
+ America, because, if it existed, it must lie in latitudes of frozen
+ sea and be unnavigable.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At different places along the east coast of North America he kidnapped
+ natives, and eventually returned to Spain (via Florida and Cuba) with
+ a cargo of Amerindian slaves.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He had been preceded, by seven or eight months, in his explorations
+ along the same coast by GIOVANNI DA VERRAZANO, a native of Florence,
+ who as a navigator and explorer had visited the East, and had
+ associated himself a good deal with the shipowners of Dieppe. Ever
+ since the issue of Cabot's voyages was known&mdash;at any rate from
+ 1504&mdash;ships from Brittany and Normandy had made their way to Cape
+ Breton Island and Newfoundland for the cod fisheries. In 1508 a Norman
+ named Aubert was sent out by Jean Ango&mdash;a great merchant of Dieppe of
+ that day&mdash;to found a colony in Newfoundland. Aubert failed to do this,
+ but he captured and brought away at least seven of the natives, no
+ doubt of the Beothik tribe, from Newfoundland to Rouen, with their
+ canoe, clothing, and weapons. A good many ships also went out from La
+ Rochelle on the west coast of France, and took part in the fishing off
+ the coast of Newfoundland: together with the ships of Brittany and
+ Dieppe there may have been a French fishing fleet of seventy to eighty
+ ships plying every summer season between France, Newfoundland, and
+ Cape Breton. So that when "John from Verrazano" offered his services
+ to Francis I to make discoveries across the ocean, which should become
+ possessions of the French Crown, he was quickly provided with the
+ requisite funds and ships.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Verrazano started on the 17th of January, 1524, for the coast of
+ North America, but I shall say little about his expedition here,
+ because it resulted chiefly in the discovery and mapping of what is
+ now the east coast of the United States. He reached as far as the
+ south coast of Newfoundland, it is true; he also gave the names of
+ Nova Gallia and Francesca to the coast regions of eastern North
+ America, and distinctly intended to take possession of these on behalf
+ of the French Crown. But his work in this direction did not lead
+ directly to the creation of the French colony of Canada, because, when
+ he returned from America, Francis I was at war with Spain, and could
+ pay no attention to Verrazano's projects. His voyage is worth
+ recording in the present volume only for these two reasons: he
+ certainly put it into the minds of French people that they might found
+ an empire in North America; and he inspired geographers for another
+ hundred years with the false idea that the great North American
+ Continent had a very narrow waist, like the Isthmus of Panama, and
+ that the Pacific Ocean covered the greater part of what is now called
+ the United States. This mistake arose from his looking across the
+ narrow belts or peninsulas of sand in North Carolina and Virginia, and
+ seeing vast stretches of open water to the west. These were found, a
+ hundred years afterwards, to be merely large shallow lagoons of sea
+ water, but Verrazano thought they were an extension of the Pacific
+ Ocean.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nevertheless, Verrazano's voyage developed into the French
+ colonization of Canada, just as Cabot drew the British to
+ Newfoundland, Columbus the Spaniards to Central and South America, and
+ Amerigo Vespucci showed the Portuguese the way to Brazil. The modern
+ nations of western Europe owe the inception of their great colonies in
+ America to four Italians.
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="note-1-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-1"><u>1</u></a> This is a convenient name for the race formerly called
+ "American Indian". They are not Indians (i.e. natives of India), and
+ they are not the only Americans, since there are now about 110,000,000
+ white Americans of European origin and 24,000,000 negroes and
+ negroids. The total approximate "Amerindian" or aboriginal population
+ of the New World at the present day is 16,000,000, of whom about
+ 111,000 live in the Canadian Dominion, and 300,000 in the United
+ States, the remainder in Central and South America.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-2">
+<u>2</u></a> It is doubtful whether actual masts and sails were known
+ in America till the coming of Europeans, though the ancient Peruvians
+ are said to have used mat sails in their canoes. But the northern
+ Amerindians had got as far as placing bushes or branches of fir trees
+ upright in their canoes to catch the force of the wind.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-3"><u>3</u></a> The grapes and vines so often alluded to by the early
+ explorers of North America ripened, according to the species, between
+ August and October. They belong to the same genus&mdash;<i>Vitis</i>&mdash;as that of
+ the grape vines of the Old World, but they were quite distinct in
+ species. Nowadays they are known as the Fox Grapes (<i>Vitis vulpina</i>),
+ the Frost Grape (<i>V. cordifolia</i>), the <i>V. aestivalis</i>, the <i>V.
+ labruska</i>, &amp;c. The fruit of the Fox Grape is dark purple, with a very
+ dusky skin and a musky flavour. The Frost Grape has a very small
+ berry, which is black or leaden-blue when covered with bloom. It is
+ very acid to the taste, but from all these grapes it is easy to make a
+ delicious, refreshing drink. Champlain, however, says that the wild
+ grapes were often quite large in size, and his men found them
+ delicious to eat.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-4"><u>4</u></a> Perhaps from the Eastern Eskimo national name <i>Karalit</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-5"><u>5</u></a> Antonio Zeno served as pilot to Earl Sinclair of the
+ Faeroe Islands and of Roslyn, a Norman-Scottish nobleman who owed
+ joint fealty to the kings of Norway and Scotland. Sinclair was so
+ impressed with the stories of a "Newland" beyond Greenland that he
+ sailed to find it about 1390, but only reached Greenland.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-6"><u>6</u></a> Cape Breton was not then, or for nearly two hundred years
+ afterwards, known to be an island. It was thought to be part of the
+ "island" (peninsula) of what we now call Nova Scotia, and the whole of
+ this region which advances so prominently into the Atlantic was
+ believed to be at first the great unknown "New Island" of Irish and
+ English legends&mdash;legends based on the Norse discoveries of the
+ eleventh century. Cape Breton was thus named by the Breton seaman who
+ came thither soon after the Cabot expeditions to fish for cod. This
+ large island is separated from Nova Scotia by the Gut of Canso, a
+ strait no broader than a river.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-7"><u>7</u></a> Dr. S.E. DAWSON (<i>The St. Lawrence Basin</i>) says of this
+ voyage: "When the forest wilderness of Cape Breton listened to the
+ voices of Cabot's little company (of Bristol mariners) it was the
+ first faint whisper of the mighty flood of English speech which was
+ destined to overflow the continent to the shores of another
+ ocean...."
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-8"><u>8</u></a> Almost certainly this was <i>Conurus carolinensis</i>, a green
+ and orange parrakeet still found in the south-eastern States of North
+ America, but formerly met with as far north as New York and Boston.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-9"><u>9</u></a> The name <i>America</i> probably appears for the first time in
+ English print in the old play or masque the <i>Four Elements</i>, which was
+ published about 1518. In a review of the geography of the Earth, as
+ known at that period, a description is given of this vast New World
+ across the Ocean: "But these new landys found lately, been called
+ America, because only Americus did find them first". Americus was a
+ Florentine bank clerk&mdash;Amerigo Vespucci&mdash;at Seville who gave up the
+ counting-house for adventure, sailed with a Spanish captain to the
+ West Indies and the mainland of Venezuela (off which he notes that he
+ met an English sailing vessel, and this as early as 1499!), and then
+ joined the first exploring voyage of the Portuguese to Brazil. He
+ returned to Europe, and in a letter to a fellow countryman at Paris,
+ written in the late autumn of 1502, he claimed to have discovered a
+ New World across the Ocean. His clear statement about what was really
+ the South American Continent aroused so much enthusiasm in civilized
+ Europe that five years afterwards the New World was called after him
+ by a German printer (Walzmüller) at the little Alsatian University of
+ St. Dié. By 1518 the English writers and mariners were probably aware
+ that the discoveries of Cabot, Columbus, and the Portuguese indicated
+ the extension of "America" from the Arctic to the Antarctic, but not
+ till about 1553 did the scholars and adventurers of England show
+ themselves fully alive to the gigantic importance of this New World.
+ Between 1530 and 1553 their attention was distracted from geography
+ and over-sea adventure by the religious troubles of the Reformation.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-10"><u>10</u></a> <i>Bacalhao</i> in Portuguese (and a similar word in Spanish,
+ old French, and Italian) means dried, salted fish. It comes from a
+ Latin word meaning "a small stick", because the fish were split open
+ and held up flat to dry by means of a cross or framework of small
+ sticks, the Norse name "stokfiske" meant the same: stockfish or
+ stickfish.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-11"><u>11</u></a> <i>Labrador</i> (<i>Lavrador</i> in Portuguese) means a labourer,
+ a serf. The Portuguese are supposed to have brought some Red Indians
+ from this coast to be sold as slaves.
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-12"><u>12</u></a> Corte-Real's name of Terra Verde ("Greenland") was soon
+ dropped in favour of the older English name "New Land" (Newfoundland,
+ Terra Nova). This was at once adopted by the French seamen as "Terre
+ Neuve".
+</p>
+<a name="note-1-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#1-13"><u>13</u></a> The name Nova Scotia was not applied to this peninsula
+ until 1621, by the British Government. It was at first included with
+ New Brunswick under the Spanish name of Norumbega, and after 1603 was
+ called by the French "Acadie".
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0002"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER II
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Jacques Cartier
+</h3>
+<p>
+ Verrazano and Gomez, and probably the English captain, John Rut, had
+ all sought for the opening of a strait of salt water&mdash;like Magellan's
+ Straits in the far south&mdash;which should lead them through the great
+ North-American continent to the regions of China and Japan. Yet in
+ some incomprehensible way they overlooked the two broad passages to
+ the north and south of Newfoundland&mdash;the Straits of Belle Isle and of
+ Cabot&mdash;which would at any rate lead them into the vast Gulf of St.
+ Lawrence, and thence to the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes; a
+ natural system of waterways connected each with the other and all with
+ the Mississippi and Missouri, the Arctic Ocean, and Hudson's Bay; nay,
+ more, with the North Pacific also; so that with a few "portages", or
+ carryings of canoes from one watershed to another, a traveller of any
+ enterprise, accompanied by a sturdy crew, can cross the broad
+ continent of North America at its broadest from sea to sea without
+ much walking.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Estevão Gomez noticed Cabot Straits between Cape Breton and
+ Newfoundland, but thought them only a very deep bay. John Rut and
+ others discerned the Straits of Belle Isle as a wide recess in the
+ coast rather than the mouth of a channel leading far inland. And yet,
+ after thirty years of Breton, English, and Portuguese fishing
+ operations in these waters, there must have been glimmerings of the
+ existence of the great Gulf of St. Lawrence behind Newfoundland: and
+ JACQUES CARTIER (or Quartier), who had probably made already one
+ voyage to Newfoundland (besides a visit to Brazil), suspected that
+ between Newfoundland and Labrador there lay the opening of the great
+ sea passage "leading to China". He proposed himself to Philippe de
+ Chabot, the Admiral of France, as the leader of a new French adventure
+ to find the North-west Passage, was accepted by King Francis, and at
+ the age of forty-three years set out, with two ships, from St. Malo in
+ Brittany, on April 20, 1534, ten years after Verrazano's voyage, and
+ reached the coast of Newfoundland after a voyage of only twenty days.
+ As he sailed northwards, past the deeply indented fiords and bays of
+ eastern Newfoundland (the shores of which were still hugged by the
+ winter ice), he and his men were much impressed with the incredible
+ numbers of the sea fowl settled for nesting purposes on the rocky
+ islands, especially on Funk Island.<a name="2-1"></a><a href="#note-2-1"><small>[1]</small></a> These birds were guillemots,
+ puffins, great auks,<a name="2-2"></a><a href="#note-2-2"><small>[2]</small></a> gannets (called by Cartier <i>margaulx</i>), and
+ probably gulls and eider duck. To his sailors&mdash;always hungry and
+ partly fed on salted provisions, as seamen were down to a few years
+ ago&mdash;this inexhaustible supply of fresh food was a source of great
+ enjoyment. They were indifferent, no doubt, to the fishy flavour of
+ the auks and the guillemots, and only noticed that they were
+ splendidly fat. Moreover, the birds attracted Polar bears "as large as
+ cows and as white as swans". The bears would swim off from the shore
+ to the islands (unless they could reach them by crossing the ice), and
+ the sailors occasionally killed the bears and ate their flesh, which
+ they compared in excellence and taste to veal.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Passing through the Straits of Belle Isle, Cartier's ships entered
+ the Gulf of St. Lawrence. They had previously visited the adjoining
+ coast of Labrador, and there had encountered their first "natives",
+ members of some Algonkin tribe from Canada, who had come north for
+ seal fishing (Cartier is clever enough to notice and describe their
+ birch-bark canoes). After examining the west coast of Newfoundland,
+ Cartier's ships sailed on past the Magdalen Islands (stopping every
+ now and then off some islet to collect supplies of sea birds, for the
+ rocky ground was covered with them as thickly as a meadow with
+ grass).<a name="2-3"></a><a href="#note-2-3"><small>[3]</small></a> He reached the north coast of Prince Edward Island, and
+ this lovely country received from him an enthusiastic description. The
+ pine trees, the junipers, yews, elms, poplars, ash, and willows, the
+ beeches and the maples, made the forest not only full of delicious and
+ stimulating odours, but lovely in its varied tints of green. In the
+ natural meadows and forest clearings there were red and white
+ currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, a vetch which
+ produced edible peas, and a grass with a grain like rye. The forest
+ abounded in pigeons, and the climate was pleasant and warm.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Later on he coasted New Brunswick, and paused for a time over Chaleur
+ Bay, hoping it might be the opening to the strait across the continent
+ of which he was in search; but finding it was not, he continued
+ northwards till he had almost rounded the Gaspé Peninsula, a course
+ which would have led him straight away into the wonderful discovery of
+ the St. Lawrence River, but that, being forced by bad weather into
+ Gaspé Bay, and perhaps hindered by fog, instead of entering the St.
+ Lawrence he sailed right across to Anticosti Island. After that,
+ being baffled by bad weather and doubtful as to his resources lasting
+ out, he decided to return to France through the Strait of Belle Isle.
+</p>
+<p>
+ So far he had failed to realize two of the most important things in
+ the geography of this region: the broad southern entrance into the
+ Gulf of St. Lawrence (subsequently called Cabot Strait), which
+ separates Newfoundland on the north from Cape Breton Island on the
+ south, and the broad entrance into the River St. Lawrence between
+ Anticosti Island and the Gaspé Peninsula.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Yet, whilst staying in Gaspé Bay, he had a very important meeting with
+ Amerindian natives of the Huron-Iroquois stock, who had come down the
+ River St. Lawrence from the neighbourhood of Quebec, fishing for
+ mackerel. These bold, friendly people welcomed the French heartily,
+ greeting them with songs and dances. But when they saw Cartier erect a
+ great cross on the land at the entrance to Gaspé Bay (a cross bearing
+ a shield with the arms of France and the letters "Vive le Roi de
+ France"), they were ill at ease. It is certain that not one word could
+ be understood in language between the two parties, for there were as
+ yet no interpreters; but the Amerindians were probably shrewd enough
+ to perceive that Cartier was making some claim on the land, and they
+ explained by signs that they considered all this country belonged to
+ themselves. Nevertheless, Cartier persuaded two youths, the sons of
+ one of the chiefs, to go back with him to France on his ship, to learn
+ the French language, to see what France looked like, and to return
+ afterwards as interpreters. The boys, though they were practically
+ kidnapped at first, were soon reconciled to going, especially when
+ they were dressed in French clothes!
+</p>
+<a name="image-0002"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc02.jpg" width="268" height="425"
+alt="Jacques Cartier">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>JACQUES CARTIER</h5>
+<p>
+ When Cartier was on his way home he sailed in a north-easterly
+ direction in such a way as to overlook the broad channel between the
+ Gaspé Peninsula and Anticosti Island, but having rounded the
+ easternmost extremity of that large island, he coasted along its
+ northern shores until he caught sight of the opening of the Canadian
+ channel to the west. He believed then that he had discovered the
+ long-looked-for opening of the trans-continental passage, and sailed
+ for France with his wonderful news.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 19th of May, 1535, Cartier started again from St. Malo with
+ three ships, the biggest of which was only 120 tons, while the others
+ were respectively 60 and 40 tons capacity. The crew consisted of about
+ 112 persons, and in addition there were the two Indian youths who had
+ been kidnapped on the previous voyage, and were now returning as
+ interpreters. Instead, however, of reaching Newfoundland in twenty
+ days, he spent five weeks crossing the Atlantic before he reached his
+ rendezvous with the other ships at Blanc Sablon, on the south coast of
+ Labrador; for the easy access to the Gulf of St. Lawrence through
+ Cabot Strait (between Newfoundland and Cape Breton) was not yet
+ realized. Once past Anticosti Island, the two Huron interpreters began
+ to recognize the scenery.<a name="2-4"></a><a href="#note-2-4"><small>[4]</small></a> They now explained to Cartier that he had
+ entered the estuary of a vast river. This they said he had only to
+ pursue in ships and boats and he would reach "Canada" (which was the
+ name they gave to the district round about Quebec), and that beyond
+ "Canada" no man had ever been known to reach the end of this great
+ water; but, they added, it was fresh water, not salt, and this last
+ piece of information much disheartened Cartier, who feared that he had
+ not, after all, discovered the water route across North America to the
+ Pacific Ocean. He therefore turned about and once more searched the
+ opposite coast of Labrador most minutely, displaying, as he did so, a
+ seamanship which was little else than marvellous, for it is a very
+ dangerous coast, the seas are very stormy, and the look-out often
+ hampered by a sudden rising of dense fog; there are islands and rocks
+ (some of them almost hidden by the water) and sandbanks; but Cartier
+ made this survey of southern Labrador without an accident.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At this period, some three hundred and seventy-five years ago, the
+ northern coasts of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and of Anticosti Island
+ swarmed with huge walruses, which were described by Cartier as sea
+ horses that spent the night on land and the day in the water. They
+ have long since been exterminated by the English and French seamen and
+ settlers.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last Cartier set sail for the south-west, intending to explore this
+ wonderful river and to reach the kingdom of Canada. According to his
+ understanding of the Amerindian interpreters, the waters of the St.
+ Lawrence flowed through three great states: <i>Saguenay</i>, which was the
+ mountainous Gaspé Peninsula and the opposite coast; <i>Canada</i>, Quebec
+ and its neighbourhood; and <i>Hochelaga</i>, the region between Montreal
+ and Lake Ontario. At the mouth of the Saguenay River, where Tadoussac
+ is now situated, he encountered large numbers of white whales&mdash;the
+ Beluga. These are really huge porpoises, allied to the narwhals, but
+ without the narwhal's exaggerated tusk. When he reached the vicinity
+ of the modern Quebec,<a name="2-5"></a><a href="#note-2-5"><small>[5]</small></a> and his Amerindian interpreters found
+ themselves at their actual home (for they were far away from home on a
+ fishing expedition when he caught them in Gaspé Bay) there was great
+ rejoicing; for they were able to tell their relations of the wonderful
+ country to which they had been across the ocean. Cartier was delighted
+ with the surroundings of "Canada" (Quebec), near which at that time
+ was a large settlement (Stadacona) of Huron Indians under a chief
+ named Donnacona. He decided to lay up his ships here for the winter,
+ and to pursue the rest of his western explorations in his boats.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the Amerindians for some reason were not willing that he should go
+ any farther, and attempted to scare him from his projects by arranging
+ for three of their number to come down river in a canoe, dressed in
+ dogs' skins, with their faces blackened, and with bisons' horns
+ fastened to their heads. These devils pretended to take no notice of
+ the French, but to die suddenly as they reached the shore, while the
+ rest of the natives gave vent to howlings of despair and
+ consternation. The three devils were pretending to have brought a
+ message from a god to these Hurons of "Canada" that the country up
+ river (Hochelaga) was so full of ice and snow that it would be death
+ for anyone to go there.
+</p>
+<p>
+ However, this made little or no impression on Cartier; but he consented
+ to leave a proportion of his party behind with the chief Donnacona as
+ hostages, and then started up country in his boats with about seventy
+ picked officers and men. On the 2nd of October, 1535, they reached the
+ vicinity of the modern Montreal, the chief settlement of Hochelaga.
+ The Huron town at the foot of the hills was circular in outline,
+ surrounded by a stockade of three rows of upright tree trunks, which
+ rose to its highest point in the middle, where the timbers of the
+ inner and outward sides sloped to meet one another, the height of the
+ central row being about 8 feet above the ground. All round the inside
+ there was a platform or rampart on which were stored heavy stones to
+ be hurled at any enemy who should attempt to scale the fence. The town
+ was entered by only one doorway, and contained about fifty houses
+ surrounding an open space whereon the towns-people made their
+ bonfires. Each house was about 50 feet long by 12 to 15 feet wide.
+ They were roofed with bark, and usually had attics which were
+ storerooms for food. In the centre of each of these long houses there
+ was a fireplace where the cooking for the whole of the house
+ inhabitants was done. Each family had its own room, but each house
+ probably contained five families. Almost the only furniture, except
+ cooking pots, was mats on which the people sat and slept. The food of
+ the people consisted, besides fish and the flesh of beavers and deer,
+ of maize and beans. Cartier at once recognized the maize or Indian
+ corn as the same grain ("a large millet") as that which he had seen in
+ Brazil.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He gives a description of how they made the maize into bread (or
+ rather "dampers", "ashcakes"); but as this is not altogether clear, it
+ is better to combine it with Champlain's description, written a good
+ many years later, but still at a time when the Hurons were unaffected
+ by the white man's civilization. According to both Cartier and
+ Champlain, the women pounded the corn to meal in a wooden mortar, and
+ removed the bran by means of fans made of the bark of trees. From this
+ meal they made bread, sometimes mixing with the meal the beans
+ (<i>Phaseolus vulgaris</i>), which had been boiled and mashed. Or they
+ would boil both Indian corn and beans into a thick soup, adding to the
+ soup blueberries,<a name="2-6"></a><a href="#note-2-6"><small>[6]</small></a> dried raspberries, or pieces of deer's fat. The
+ meal derived from the corn and beans they would make into bread,
+ baking it in the ashes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Or they would take the pounded Indian corn without removing the bran,
+ and put two or three handfuls of it into an earthen pot full of water,
+ stirring it from time to time, when it boiled, so that it might not
+ adhere to the pot. To this was added a small quantity of fish, fresh
+ or dry, according to the season, to give a flavour to the <i>migane</i> or
+ porridge. When the dried fish was used the porridge smelt very badly
+ in the nostrils of Europeans, but worst of all when the porridge was
+ mixed with dried venison, which was sometimes nearly putrid! If fish
+ was put into this porridge it was boiled whole in the mealy water,
+ then taken out without any attempt to remove the fins, scales, or
+ entrails, and the whole of the boiled fish was pounded up and put back
+ into the porridge. Sometimes a great birch-bark "kettle" would be
+ filled with water, fish, and meat, and red-hot stones be dropped in
+ till it boiled. Then with a spoon they would collect from the surface
+ the fat and oil arising from the fish or meat. This they afterwards
+ mixed with the meal of roasted Indian corn, stirring it with this fat
+ till they had made a thick soup. Sometimes, however, they were content
+ to eat the young corn-cobs freshly roasted, which as a matter of fact
+ (with a little salt) is one of the most delicious things in the world.
+ Or they would take ears of Indian corn and bury them in wet mud,
+ leaving them thus for two or three months; then the cobs would be
+ removed and the rotted grain eaten with meat and fish, though it was
+ all muddy and smelt horribly. Cartier also noticed that these Huron
+ Indians had melons and pumpkins, and described their wampum or shell
+ money.<a name="2-7"></a><a href="#note-2-7"><small>[7]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ From the eminence on which the Huron city stood, Cartier obtained a
+ splendid view of rivers and mountains and magnificent forests, and
+ called the place then and there, in his Norman French, Mont Real, or
+ Royal Eminence, a name which it will probably bear for all time,
+ though the actual city of Montreal lies a few miles below.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Montreal was the limit of Cartier's explorations on this journey. He
+ returned thence to "Canada" or Stadacona, where his men built a fort
+ armed with artillery, and where his ships were anchored. Here he had
+ to stay from the middle of November, 1535, to the middle of April,
+ 1536, his ships being shut in by the ice. The experiences of the
+ French during these five months were mostly unhappy. At first Cartier
+ gave himself up to the collecting of information. He noticed for the
+ first time the smoking of tobacco,<a name="2-8"></a><a href="#note-2-8"><small>[8]</small></a> and collected information about
+ the products and features of "Canada". The Indians told him of great
+ lakes in the far west, one of which was so vast that no man had seen
+ the end of it. They told him that anyone travelling up the Richelieu
+ River (as it was called sixty years later) would eventually reach a
+ land in the south where in the winter there was no ice or snow, and
+ where fruit and nut trees grew in abundance. Cartier thought that they
+ were talking to him of Florida, but their geographical information can
+ scarcely have stretched so far; they probably referred to the milder
+ regions of New Jersey and Virginia, which would be reached by
+ following southwards the valley of the Hudson and keeping to the
+ lowlands of the eastern United States.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As the winter set in with its customary Canadian severity the real
+ trouble of the French began. They did not suffer from the cold, but
+ they were dying of scurvy. This disease, from which the natives also
+ suffered to some extent, was due to their eating nothing but salt or
+ smoked provisions&mdash;forms of meat or fish. They lived, of course, shut
+ up in the fort, and Cartier's fixed idea was to keep the Hurons from
+ the knowledge of his misfortune, fearing lest, if they realized how
+ the garrison was reduced, they might treacherously attack and massacre
+ the rest; for in spite of the extravagant joy with which their arrival
+ had been greeted, the Amerindians&mdash;notably the two interpreters who
+ had been to France and returned&mdash;showed at intervals signs of disquiet
+ and a longing to be rid of these mysterious white men, whose coming
+ might involve the country in unknown misfortunes. In January and
+ February, also, Donnacona and these two interpreters and many of the
+ Huron men had been absent hunting in the forests, so that there was no
+ one among the Amerindians to whom the French could turn for
+ information regarding this strange disease. At last 25 out of the 112
+ who had left France were dead, and of the remainder only 10 men,
+ including Cartier, were not grievously ill. Those who were living
+ found it sometimes beyond their strength to bury the dead in the
+ frozen ground, and simply placed their bodies in deep snow. Once or
+ twice, when Cartier left the fort to go out to the ships, he met
+ Domagaya, one of the two interpreters, and found that he also was
+ suffering from this mysterious disease, though not nearly so badly as
+ the French people. On the body of one young man who died of scurvy
+ Cartier and his officers, shuddering, made investigations, opening the
+ corpse and examining the organs to try and find the cause of death.
+ This was on the afternoon of a day on which they had held a solemn
+ service before a statue erected to the Virgin Mary on the shore
+ opposite to the ships. All who were fit to walk went in procession
+ from the fort to the statue, singing penitential psalms and the Litany
+ and celebrating Mass.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Some days after this religious service Cartier met the interpreter,
+ Domagaya, and to his surprise found him perfectly well and strong. He
+ asked him for an explanation, and was told that the medicine which
+ cured this disease was made from the leaves and bark of a tree called
+ ameda.<a name="2-9"></a><a href="#note-2-9"><small>[9]</small></a> Cartier then ventured to say that one of his servants was
+ sick of this unknown disease, and Domagaya sent for two women, who
+ taught the French people how to make an extract from the balsam fir
+ for drinking, and how to apply the same liquid to the inflamed skin.
+ The effect on the crews was miraculous. In six days all the sick were
+ well and strong.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Then came the sudden spring. Between April 15th and May 1st the ice on
+ the river was all melted, and on the 6th May, 1536, Cartier started
+ from the vicinity of Quebec to return to France. But before leaving he
+ had managed to kidnap Donnacona, the chief of the Huron settlement,
+ and six or seven other Amerindians, amongst them Tainyoanyi, one of
+ the two interpreters who had already been to France. He seized these
+ men, it appears, partly because he wanted hostages and had good reason
+ to fear that the Indians meditated a treacherous attack on his ships
+ before they could get away. He also wished for native witnesses at
+ Court, when he reached France, to testify to the truth of his
+ discoveries, and even more to convince the King of France that there
+ was great profit to be obtained from giving effect to Cartier's
+ explorations. The chief, Donnacona, was full of wonderful stories of
+ the Saguenay region, and of the great lakes to the northwards of
+ Quebec. Probably he was only alluding to the wealth of copper now
+ known to exist in northern Canada, but to Cartier and the other
+ Frenchmen it seemed as though he spoke of gold and silver, rubies, and
+ other precious stones.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Donnacona's people howled and wept when their chief was seized; but
+ Cartier obliged the chief to reassure them, and to say that the French
+ had promised to bring him back after he had paid a visit to their
+ great king, who would return him to his country with great presents.
+ As a matter of fact, not one of these Indians rapt away by Cartier
+ ever saw Canada again. But this was not the fault of Cartier, but of
+ the distractions of the times which turned away the thoughts of King
+ Francis I from American adventures. The Indians were well and kindly
+ treated in France, but all of them died there before Cartier left St.
+ Malo to return to Canada in 1541.
+</p>
+<p>
+ One advantage he derived from sailing away with these hostages was (no
+ doubt) that they could give him geographical information of importance
+ which materially shortened the return journey. For the first time he
+ made use of the broad strait between Anticosti Island and Gaspé
+ Peninsula, and, better still, entered the Atlantic, not by the
+ dangerous northern route through the straits of Belle Isle, but by
+ means of Cabot Strait, between Newfoundland and Cape Breton Island. Of
+ these discoveries he availed himself on his third and last voyage in
+ 1541.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When in that year he once more anchored his ships near Quebec he found
+ the attitude of the Hurons changed. They enquired about their friends
+ and relations who had been carried off five years before, and although
+ they pretended to be reconciled to their fate when they heard (not
+ altogether truly) that one or two were dead, and the others had become
+ great lords in France and had married French women, they really felt a
+ disappointment so bitter and a hostility so great that Cartier guessed
+ their expressions of welcome to be false. However, he sent back to
+ France two of the ships under his command and beached the other three,
+ landed his stores, built two forts at Cap Rouge, above and below, and
+ then started off with a few of his men and two boats to revisit the
+ country of Hochelaga. Here he intended to examine the three rapids or
+ "saults"&mdash;interruptions to the navigation of the St. Lawrence&mdash;which
+ he had observed on his previous journey, and which were later named
+ the La Chine Rapids (in the belief that they were obstacles on the
+ river route to China). But these falls proved insuperable obstacles to
+ his boats, and he gave up any further idea of westward exploration,
+ returned to his forts and ships near Quebec, and there laid the
+ foundations of a fortified town, which he called Charlesbourg Royal.
+ Here he spent a very difficult winter, the Hurons in the neighbourhood
+ becoming increasingly hostile, and at last, when the spring came, as
+ he had received no relief from France, he took to his three ships,
+ abandoned Charlesbourg Royal (having probably to do some fighting
+ before he could get safely away) and thence sailed for France. Off the
+ Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland he met the other ships of the
+ expedition which was to have occupied Canada for France. These were
+ under the command of the Sieur de Roberval, a French nobleman, who had
+ really been made head of the whole enterprise, with Cartier as a
+ subordinate officer, but who, the year before, had allowed Cartier to
+ go off to Canada and prepare the way, promising to follow immediately.
+ The interview between Cartier and Roberval, near where the capital of
+ Newfoundland (St. John's) now stands, was a stormy one. Roberval
+ ordered Cartier to return at once to Charlesbourg and await his
+ arrival. However, in the middle of the night which followed this
+ interview, Cartier took advantage of a favourable wind and set sail
+ for France, arriving soon afterwards at St. Malo.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But Roberval arrived at Charlesbourg (going the roundabout way through
+ the straits of Belle Isle, for Cartier had told him nothing of the
+ convenient passage through Cabot Strait), and there spent the winter
+ of 1542-3, sending his ships back to France. This winter was one of
+ horrors. Roberval was a headstrong, passionate man, perfectly reckless
+ of human life. He maintained discipline by ferocious sentences,
+ putting many of his men in irons, whipping others cruelly, women as
+ well as men, and shooting those who seemed the most rebellious. Even
+ the Indians were moved to pity, and wept at the sight of the woes of
+ these unhappy French men and women under the control of a bloodthirsty
+ tyrant, and many of them dying of scurvy, or miserably weak from that
+ disease.<a name="2-10"></a><a href="#note-2-10"><small>[10]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ However, when the weather was warm again, in June, 1543, Roberval
+ started up the St. Lawrence River in boats to reach the wonderful
+ country of Saguenay. Apparently he met with little success, and, being
+ relieved by French ships in the late summer of 1543, he returned to
+ France.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Thus the splendid work achieved by Cartier seemed to have come to
+ nothing, for neither he nor Roberval revisited America. The French
+ settlement near Quebec was abandoned, so far as the officers of the
+ French king were concerned, and between 1545 and about 1583, if any
+ other Frenchman or European visited Canada it was some private
+ adventurer who traded with the natives in furs, or Basques from France
+ and Spain who frequented the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence on
+ account of the abundance of whales, walruses, and seals. In fact, at
+ the close of the sixteenth century, the Spanish Basques had
+ established themselves on shore at Tadoussac and other places, and
+ seemed likely to colonize the country.
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="note-2-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-1"><u>1</u></a> Funk Island&mdash;called by Cartier "the Island of Birds"&mdash;is
+ only about 3 miles round, and 46 feet above the sea level. It is 3
+ miles distant from the coast.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-2"><u>2</u></a> The Great Auk (<i>Alca impennis</i>), extinct since about 1844
+ in Europe and 1870 in Labrador, once had in ancient times a
+ geographical range from Massachusetts and Newfoundland to Iceland,
+ Ireland, Scotland, N.E. England, and Denmark. Perhaps nowhere was it
+ found so abundantly as on the coasts of Eastern Newfoundland and on
+ Funk Island hard by. The Great Auk was in such numbers on the
+ north-east coast of Newfoundland that the Amerindians of that country
+ and of southern Labrador used it as fuel in the winter time, its body
+ being very full of oil and burning with a splendid flame. The French
+ seamen called it <i>pingouin</i> ("penguin") from its fatness, and this
+ name was much later transferred to the real penguins of the southern
+ seas which are quite unrelated to the auks.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-3"><u>3</u></a> On the shores of these islands they noticed "several
+ great beasts like oxen, which have two tusks in the mouth similar to
+ those of the elephant". These were walruses.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-4"><u>4</u></a> Anticosti Island received from Cartier the name of "the
+ Island of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin", in consequence of his
+ having discovered it to be an island on the feast day of that name. It
+ did not receive its present title until the late seventeenth century.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-5"><u>5</u></a> Then called "Canada". The word Quebec (pronounced
+ <i>Kebek</i>) means the narrow part of a river.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-6"><u>6</u></a> The Canada Blueberry (<i>Vaccinium canadense</i>), called by
+ the French <i>bluës</i> or <i>bluëts</i>. These bluës were collected and dried
+ by the Amerindians, and made a sweet nutriment for eating in the
+ winter.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-7"><u>7</u></a> Cartier, in Hakluyt's translation, is made to say (I
+ modernize the spelling): "They dig their grounds with certain pieces
+ of wood as big as half a sword, on which ground groweth their corn,
+ which they call 'offici'; it is as big as our small peason.... They
+ have also great store of musk melons, pompions, gourds, cucumbers,
+ peas, and beans of every colour, yet differing from ours."<br><br>
+
+ Wampum, or shell money (which recalls the shell money of the Pacific
+ Islands), consisted either of beads made from the interior parts of
+ sea shells or land shells, or of strings of perforated sea shells. The
+ most elaborate kind of wampum was that of the Amerindians of Canada
+ and the eastern United States, the shell beads of which were generally
+ white. The commoner wampum beads were black and violet. Wampum belts
+ were made which illustrated events, dates, treaties of peace, &amp;c, by a
+ rude symbolism (figures of men and animals, upright lines, &amp;c), and
+ these were worked neatly on string by employing different-coloured
+ beads.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-8"><u>8</u></a> "There groweth also a certain kind of herb whereof in
+ summer they make a great provision for all the year, making great
+ account of it, and only men use it; and first they cause it to be
+ dried in the sun, then wear it about their necks wrapped in a little
+ beast's skin made like a bag, together with a hollow piece of stone or
+ wood like a pipe. Then when they please they make powder of it and put
+ it in one of the ends of the said cornet or pipe, and laying a coal of
+ fire upon it at the other end, suck so long that they fill their
+ bodies full of smoke, till that it cometh out of their mouth and
+ nostrils, even as out of the tunnel of a chimney. They say that this
+ doth keep them warm and in health: they never go without some of it
+ about them. We ourselves have tried the same smoke, and having put it
+ in our mouths, it seemed almost as hot as pepper." The foregoing is
+ one of the earliest descriptions of tobacco smoking in any European
+ language, the original words being in Cartier's Norman French.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-9"><u>9</u></a> This tree was the balsam fir, <i>Abies balsamea</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-2-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#2-10"><u>10</u></a> A story was subsequently told of Roberval's stern
+ treatment which had a germ of truth in it, though it has since been
+ the foundation of many a romance. On the journey out from France it is
+ said that Roberval took with him his niece Marguerite, a high-born
+ lady, who was accompanied by an old companion or nurse. Marguerite was
+ travelling with her uncle because, unknown to him, she had a lover who
+ had sailed with him on this expedition and whom she hoped to marry. As
+ they crossed the Atlantic these facts leaked out, and Roberval
+ resolved to bide his time and punish his niece for her deception. As
+ they passed the coast of Southern Labrador Marguerite and her old
+ nurse were seized and put into a boat, Roberval ordering his sailors
+ to row them ashore to an island, and leave them to their fate. They
+ were given four guns with ammunition and a small supply of provisions.
+ But, as the boat was leaving the ship, Marguerite's lover threw
+ himself into the sea and swam to the island. Here, according to the
+ story which Marguerite is supposed to have told afterwards, they
+ endeavoured to live by killing the wild animals and eating their
+ flesh; but her lover-husband died, so also did her child soon after it
+ was born, and then the old nurse, and the unhappy Marguerite was left
+ alone with the wild beasts, especially the white Polar bears, who
+ thronged round her hut. Nevertheless she kept them at bay with her
+ arquebus, and managed somehow to support an existence, until after
+ nineteen months' isolation the ascending smoke of her fire was seen by
+ people on one of the many fishing vessels which, by this time,
+ frequented the coasts of Newfoundland. She was taken off the island
+ and restored to her home in France. The island to which this tradition
+ more especially relates is now called Grand Meccatina.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0003"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER III
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Elizabethan Pioneers in North America
+</h3>
+<p>
+ Except that the ships of Bristol still no doubt continued to resort to
+ the banks of Newfoundland for fishing, and that even the captains of
+ these ships were occasionally elected admirals of the French, Basque,
+ Portuguese, and English fishing fleets during the summer, the English,
+ as a nation, took no part in claiming political dominion over North
+ America after the voyage of Captain John Rut in 1527. This was the
+ fault of Sebastian Cabot, the son of the man who founded British
+ America, and who had returned to England long afterwards as the Grand
+ Pilot appointed by Edward VI to further the discovery of a northern
+ sea passage to China. Through him the attention of adventurers for a
+ time was diverted from America to the "discovery" of Russia (as it has
+ been called). The efforts of Sebastion Cabot were directed towards the
+ revelation of a north-east passage by way of Arctic Russia to the
+ Pacific, rather than past Newfoundland and Labrador and across Arctic
+ America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But as soon as Elizabeth came to the throne the sea adventurers of
+ Britain, freed from any subservience to Spanish wishes, developed
+ maritime intercourse between England, Morocco, and West Africa on the
+ one hand, and Tropical and North America on the other. Once more the
+ discovery of the North-west Passage across America to China came into
+ favour. MARTIN FROBISHER<a name="3-1"></a><a href="#note-3-1"><small>[1]</small></a> offered himself as a discoverer, and the
+ Earl of Warwick found the means which provided him with two small
+ sailing vessels of 25 and 20 tons each, besides a pinnace of 10
+ tons.<a name="3-2"></a><a href="#note-3-2"><small>[2]</small></a> Queen Elizabeth confined herself, in the way of
+ encouragement, to waving her lily hand from her palace of Greenwich as
+ these three little boats dropped down the Thames on the 8th of June,
+ 1576. She also sent them "an honourable message", which no doubt
+ reached them at Tilbury.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the pinnace was soon swallowed up in the high seas; the seamen in
+ the vessel of 20 tons lost heart and turned their ship homewards.
+ Frobisher alone, in his 25-ton bark, sailed on and on across the
+ stormy Atlantic, past the south end of Greenland, and over the great
+ gulf that separates Greenland from Labrador. He missed the entrance to
+ Hudson's Bay, but reached a great "island" which he named Meta
+ Incognita<a name="3-3"></a><a href="#note-3-3"><small>[3]</small></a>. Here he gathered up stones and, as he believed,
+ minerals, besides capturing at least one Eskimo, and then returned.
+</p>
+<p>
+ One of his stones was declared by the refiners of London to contain
+ gold. There was at once&mdash;as we should say in modern slang&mdash;a boom for
+ these Arctic regions. Queen Elizabeth took part in it, and on the 27th
+ of May, 1577, a considerable fleet, under the command of Frobisher,
+ sailed past the Orkneys for the south end of Greenland. It did not
+ reach as far as Meta Incognita, but it brought back large heaps of
+ earth and pieces of rock, probably from northern Labrador, which
+ almost certainly contained mica schist, and were therefore believed
+ to be full of gold. The following year 1578, Frobisher started on his
+ third American voyage with a fleet of fifteen vessels, mainly financed
+ by Queen Elizabeth, and manned to a great extent by the sons of the
+ aristocracy, besides a hundred persons who were going out as
+ colonists. For this region of ice and snow which was believed to be a
+ mass of gold-bearing rocks! But the result was one of bitter
+ disappointment. The captains were bewildered by the immense icebergs,
+ "so vast that, as they melted, torrents poured from them in sparkling
+ waterfalls". One iceberg toppled over on to a ship and crushed it,
+ though most of the sailors were picked up in the sea and saved. In the
+ thick mists the greater part of the fleet blundered into Hudson's
+ Straits, yet did not realize that they had found a passage into the
+ heart of Canada. At last, disgusted with this land of bare rocks, ice,
+ and snow, they filled up the ships with cargoes of stones supposed to
+ contain gold, and straggled back to England. No gold was extracted,
+ however, from these cargoes, and much discouragement ensued.
+</p>
+<p>
+ SIR HUMPHREY GILBERT, one of the brilliant figures of Elizabeth's
+ reign&mdash;scholar, poet, courageous adventurer, and man of
+ chivalry&mdash;stimulated by the discoveries of Frobisher, obtained a
+ patent or charter in 1578, and, after several unsuccessful attempts,
+ led an expedition of small sailing ships to Newfoundland, where he
+ entered St. John's Bay, and in the presence of the Basque, Portuguese,
+ and Breton fishermen took formal possession of the country for Queen
+ Elizabeth, raising a pillar on which the arms of England were engraved
+ as a token. He then proceeded to grant lands to the fishermen to
+ reassure them, and loaded his ships with rocks brought from the
+ interior mountains and supposed to contain minerals. But in his
+ further explorations of the southern coast of Newfoundland one of the
+ ships was lost and nearly a hundred men intended as colonists were
+ drowned.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Gilbert then determined to return to England in his small frigate of
+ 10 tons named the <i>Squirrel</i>. He was accompanied by a larger vessel,
+ the <i>Golden Hinde</i>, but refused to leave the men on the <i>Squirrel</i> to
+ their fate. Consequently, between the Azores and the north coast of
+ Spain, when the <i>Squirrel</i> was overwhelmed by the heavy seas, Sir
+ Humphrey Gilbert perished together with all on board.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In spite, however, of the disappointing results of Gilbert's attempt
+ to found a colony in Newfoundland, the importance of the cod fishery
+ and the ivory tusks and oil of the walruses drew ever more and more
+ ships from Bristol and Devonshire to the coasts of that great island
+ and to the Gulf of St. Lawrence beyond. In 1592 the English
+ adventurers got as far west as Anticosti Island (in a ship from
+ Bristol), and in 1597 there is the first record of English ships (from
+ London&mdash;the <i>Hopewell</i> and the <i>Chancewell</i>) sailing up the St.
+ Lawrence River, perhaps as far west as Quebec.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1602, stimulated by Sir Walter Raleigh,<a name="3-4"></a><a href="#note-3-4"><small>[4]</small></a> Bartholomew Gosnold
+ sailed direct to the coast of North America south of the Newfoundland
+ latitudes, and anchored his bark off the coast of Massachusetts on the
+ 26th of March, 1602. Failing to find a good harbour here, he stood out
+ for the south and definitely discovered and named Cape Cod, not far
+ from the modern city of Boston. From Cape Cod he made his way to the
+ Elizabeth Islands in Buzzard's Bay, and here he built a storehouse and
+ fort, and may be said to have laid the foundations of the future
+ colony of New England. He brought back with him a cargo of sassafras
+ root, which was then much esteemed as a valuable medicine and a remedy
+ for almost all diseases.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Subsequent expeditions of English ships explored and mapped the coast
+ of Maine, and took on board Amerindians for exhibition in England.
+ Their adventures, together with those of the colonists farther south,
+ led to the creation of chartered companies, and to the great British
+ colonies of New England, New York, Virginia, the Carolinas, and
+ Georgia, which were to become in time the United States of America&mdash;a
+ vast field of adventure which we cannot follow farther in this book.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As regards Newfoundland, James I, in 1610, granted a patent to a
+ Bristol merchant for the foundation there of a colony, and although
+ this attempt, and another under Sir George Calvert (Lord Baltimore) in
+ 1616, came almost to nothing through the attacks of the French and the
+ dislike of the crews of the fishing vessels to permanent settlers who
+ might interfere with the fishing industry, the English colonization of
+ Newfoundland to some extent caught hold, so that in 1650 there were
+ about two thousand colonists of English descent along the east and
+ south-east coasts of the island. But settlement was prohibited within
+ six miles of the shore, to please the fishermen, and this regulation
+ checked for more than two hundred years the colonization of
+ Newfoundland.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nova Scotia as a British colony also came into being as another result
+ of these adventurous British expeditions to North America in the reign
+ of James I. Under the name of Acadie this region had been declared to
+ be a portion of New France by De Monts and Champlain in 1604-14. But
+ the English colonists in 1614 drove the French out of the peninsula of
+ Nova Scotia on the plea that it was a part of the discoveries made by
+ the Cabots on behalf of the British Crown. In 1621 James I gave a
+ grant of all this territory to Sir William Alexander under the name of
+ Nova Scotia, and both Charles I and Cromwell encouraged settlement in
+ this beautiful region. When Charles II ceded it to France in 1667 the
+ English and Scottish colonists who were residing there, and the
+ English settlers of New England, refused to recognize the effects of
+ the Treaty of Bréda, and so harassed the French in the years which
+ followed that in 1713 Nova Scotia was, together with Newfoundland,
+ recognized as belonging to Great Britain. The French colonists were
+ allowed to remain, but during the course of the eighteenth century
+ they combined with the Amerindians (who liked the French and disliked
+ the British) and made the position of the British colonists so
+ precarious that they were finally expelled and obliged to transfer
+ themselves to Louisiana and Canada. This was the departure of the
+ Acadians so touchingly described by Longfellow.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The British had become tenacious of their rights over the east coast
+ of Newfoundland, because from the middle of the seventeenth century
+ onwards they were becoming increasingly interested in the whale
+ fisheries and the fur trade of the lands bordering on Hudson's Bay,
+ and would not tolerate any blocking of the sea route thither by the
+ French.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the explorations of Arctic America, Frobisher's expeditions had
+ been succeeded by those of JOHN DAVIS, who in the course of three
+ voyages, beginning in June, 1585, passed the entrance of Hudson's
+ Straits and reached a point as far north as 72° 41', a lofty granite
+ island, which he named Sanderson's Hope. He saw beyond him a great
+ sea, free, large, very salt, and blue, unobstructed by ice and of an
+ unsearchable depth, and believed that he had completely discovered the
+ eastern entrance of the North-West Passage.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0003"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc03.jpg" width="283" height="450"
+alt="Icebergs and Polar Bears">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>ICEBERGS AND POLAR BEARS</h5>
+<p>
+ HENRY HUDSON, the great English navigator, who had made two voyages
+ (1607-8) for the English-Moscovy Company to discover a north-east
+ passage to India, past Siberia, commanded a third experiment in 1609
+ at the expense of the Dutch East India Company. He was to discover the
+ North-West Passage. For this purpose he entered the river now named
+ the Hudson, but soon found it was only a river; though he returned to
+ Holland with such an encouraging account of the surrounding country
+ that the Dutch a little later on, founded on the banks of the Hudson
+ River their colony of New Amsterdam (afterwards the State of New
+ York). In 1610 Hudson accepted a British commission to sail beyond
+ where Davis and Frobisher had passed, and once more seek for the
+ north-west passage to China. Instead he found the way into Hudson's
+ Bay. Here his men, alarmed at the idea of being lost in these regions
+ of ice and snow, mutinied against him, placed him and those who were
+ faithful to him in a boat, and cast them off, themselves returning to
+ England with the news of his discovery. Hudson was never heard of
+ again, and, strange to say, the mutineers apparently received no
+ punishment.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Between 1602 and 1668, English adventurers from London and Bristol,
+ notable amongst whom were WILLIAM BAFFIN, LUKE FOX, and CAPTAIN JAMES,
+ mapped the coasts of Hudson's Bay and Baffin's Bay and brought to the
+ notice of merchants in England the abundance of whales in these Arctic
+ waters, and of fur-bearing beasts and fur-trading Indians in the
+ region of Hudson's Bay.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This last point was most forcibly presented to Charles II and his
+ Government by a disappointed French Canadian, Pierre Esprit Radisson,
+ whose adventures will later on be described. Radisson, conceiving
+ himself to be badly treated by the French Governor of Canada, crossed
+ over to England with his brother-in-law, Chouart, and the two were
+ warmly taken up by Prince Rupert of Bavaria, the cousin of Charles II.
+ They were sent out by Prince Rupert in command of an expedition
+ financed by him and a number of London merchants, and in 1669 the New
+ England captain, Gillam, returned to England with Chouart and the
+ first cargo of furs from Hudson's Bay. This cargo so completely met
+ the expectations of those who had promoted the venture that it led in
+ 1670 to the foundation of the Governor and Company of Adventurers of
+ England trading into Hudson's Bay, a company chartered by Charles II
+ and presided over by Prince Rupert, and an association which proved to
+ be the germ of British North America, of the vast three-quarters of
+ the present Dominion of Canada.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-3-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#3-1"><u>1</u></a> The name was also spelt Furbusher, and in other ways. He
+ became Sir Martin Frobisher over the wars of the Armada, and died Lord
+ High Admiral of England in 1592.
+</p>
+<a name="note-3-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#3-2"><u>2</u></a> It may be of interest to set forth the kind of rations
+ shipped in those Elizabethan times for the food of the sailors.
+ According to Frobisher's accounts these consisted of salted beef, salt
+ pork, salt fish, biscuit, meal for making bread, dried peas, oatmeal,
+ rice, cheese, butter, beer, and wine, with brandy for emergencies. As
+ regards beer, the men were to have a ration of 1 gallon a day each.
+ Altogether it may be said that these rations were superior in
+ variety&mdash;and no doubt in quality&mdash;to the food given to seamen in the
+ British merchant marine in the nineteenth century.
+</p>
+<a name="note-3-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#3-3"><u>3</u></a> We now know Meta Incognita to be the southernmost
+ peninsula of the vast Baffin Island.
+</p>
+<a name="note-3-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#3-4"><u>4</u></a> In 1584, Sir Walter Raleigh, the half-brother of Sir
+ Humphrey Gilbert, financed an expedition to sail to the coast of North
+ America in a more southerly direction. In this way was founded the
+ (afterwards abandoned) colony of Roanoke, in North Carolina. It was to
+ this region that Queen Elizabeth applied the title of Virginia, which
+ some years afterwards was transferred to the first English colony on
+ the James River.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0004"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER IV
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Champlain and the Foundation of Canada
+</h3>
+<p>
+ From the first voyage of Cartier onwards, Canada was called
+ intermittently New France, and its possibilities were not lost sight
+ of by a few intelligent Frenchmen on account of the fur trade. Amongst
+ these was Amyard de Chastes, at one time Governor of Dieppe, who got
+ into correspondence with the adventurers who had settled as fur
+ traders at Tadoussac, prominent amongst whom was Du Pont-Gravé. De
+ Chastes dispatched with Pont-Gravé a young man whose acquaintance he
+ had just made, SAMUEL CHAMPLAIN.<a name="4-1"></a><a href="#note-4-1"><small>[1]</small></a> This was the man who, more than
+ any other, created French Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain had had already a most adventurous life. He was born about
+ 1567, at Brouage, in the Saintonge, opposite to the Island of Héron,
+ on the coast of western France. From his earliest years he had a
+ passion for the sea, but he also served as a soldier for six years.
+ His father had been a sea captain, and his uncle as an experienced
+ navigator was commissioned by the King of Spain to transport by sea to
+ that country the remainder of the Spanish soldiers who had been
+ serving in Brittany. The uncle took his nephew with him. Young
+ Champlain when in Spain managed to ingratiate himself so much with the
+ Spanish authorities that he was actually commissioned as a captain to
+ take a king's ship out to the West Indies. No sooner did he reach
+ Spanish America than he availed himself of the first chance to
+ explore it. For two years he travelled over Cuba, and above all
+ Mexico. He visited the narrowest part of Central America and conceived
+ the possibility of making a trans-oceanic canal across the Panama
+ isthmus.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When he got back to France he placed before Henry IV a report on
+ Spanish Central America, together with a project for making a canal at
+ Panama. Henry IV was so pleased with his work and enterprise that he
+ gave him a pension and the title of Geographer to the King. Shortly
+ afterwards he met Governor de Chastes at Dieppe, and was by him sent
+ out to Canada. The ship which carried Champlain, PONT-GRAVÉ,<a name="4-2"></a><a href="#note-4-2"><small>[2]</small></a> the
+ SIEUR DE MONTS,<a name="4-3"></a><a href="#note-4-3"><small>[3]</small></a> and other French adventurers (together with two
+ Amerindian interpreters whom Pont-Gravé had brought from Canada to
+ learn French) arrived at Tadoussac on May 24, 1603.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain lost no time in commencing his explorations. Tadoussac was
+ at the mouth of an important river, called by the French the Saguenay,
+ a name which they also applied to the mysterious and wonderful country
+ through which it flowed in the far north; a country rich in copper and
+ possibly other precious metals. Champlain ascended the Saguenay River
+ for sixty miles as far as the rapids of Chicoutima. The Amerindians
+ whom he met here told him of Lake St. John, lying at a short distance
+ to the west, and that beyond this lake and the many streams which
+ entered it there lay a region of uplands strewn with other lakes and
+ pools; and farther away still began the sloping of the land to the
+ north till the traveller sighted a great arm of the salt sea, and
+ found himself amongst tribes (probably the Eskimo) who ate raw flesh,
+ and to the Indians appeared absolute savages.<a name="4-4"></a><a href="#note-4-4"><small>[4]</small></a> This was probably
+ the first allusion, recorded by a European, to the existence of
+ Hudson's Bay, that huge inlet of the sea, which is one of the leading
+ features in the geography of British North America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Montagnais Indians round about Tadoussac received Champlain with
+ great protestations of friendship, and at the headquarters of their
+ principal chief or "Sagamore" celebrated this new friendship and
+ alliance with a feast in a very large hut. The banquet, as usual, was
+ preceded by a long address from the Sagamore in answer to the
+ description of France, given by one of the Indian interpreters. The
+ address was accompanied by the solemn smoking of tobacco, and at every
+ pause in this grave oration the natives present shouted with one
+ voice: "Ho! ho! ho!" The repast consisted of elk's meat (which struck
+ the Frenchmen as being like beef), also the flesh of bear, seal,
+ beaver, and wild fowl. There were eight or ten stone boilers or
+ cauldrons full of meats in the middle of the great hut, separated each
+ six feet from each other, and each one having its own fire. Every
+ native used a porringer or vessel made of birch bark. When the meat
+ was cooked a man in authority distributed it to each person. But
+ Champlain thought the Indians ate in a very filthy manner. When their
+ hands were covered with fat or grease they would rub them on their own
+ heads or on the hair of their dogs. Before the meat was cooked each
+ guest arose, took a dog, and hopped round the boilers from one end of
+ the great hut to the other. Arriving in front of the chief, the
+ Montagnais Indian feaster would throw his dog violently to the ground,
+ exclaiming: "Ho! ho! ho!" after which he returned to his place.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At the close of the banquet every one danced, with the skulls of
+ their Iroquois enemies slung over their backs. As they danced they
+ slapped their knees with their hands, and shouted: "Ho! ho! ho!" till
+ they were out of breath.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The huts of these Indians were low and made like tents, being covered
+ with the bark of the birch tree. An opening about a foot of the top
+ was left uncovered to admit light and to allow the smoke to escape.
+ Though low, the huts were sometimes quite large, and would accommodate
+ ten families. These slept higgledy-piggledy on skins, with their dogs
+ amongst them. The dogs in appearance were something like what we know
+ as Eskimo dogs, and also rather resembled the Chinese chow, with broad
+ heads and rather short muzzles, prick ears, and a tail inclined to
+ curl over the back. "All these people have a very cheerful
+ disposition, laughing often, yet at the same time they are somewhat
+ phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as if desiring to make
+ themselves well understood, and, stopping suddenly, they reflect for a
+ long time, when they resume their discourse."
+</p>
+<p>
+ They were agile, well-proportioned people, who in the summertime went
+ about nearly naked, but in the winter were covered with good furs of
+ elk, otter, beaver, bear, seal, and deer. The colour of their skin was
+ usually a pale olive, but the women for some reason made themselves
+ much darker-skinned than the men by rubbing their bodies with pigments
+ which turned them to a dark brown. At times they suffered very much
+ from lack of food, being obliged then to frequent the shore of the
+ river or gulf to obtain shellfish. When pressed very hard by famine
+ they would eat their dogs (their only domestic animal) and even the
+ leather of the skins with which they clothed themselves. In the autumn
+ they were much given to fishing for eels, and they dried a good deal
+ of eel flesh, to last them through the winter. During the height of
+ the winter they hunted the beaver, and later on the elk. Though they
+ ate wild roots and fruits whenever they could obtain them, they do
+ not seem to have cultivated any grain or vegetables. In the early
+ spring they were sometimes dying of hunger, and looked so thin and
+ haggard that they were mere walking skeletons. They were then ready to
+ eat carrion that was putrid, so that it is little wonder that they
+ suffered much from scurvy.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Yet the rivers and the gulf abounded in fish, and as soon as the
+ waters were unlocked by the melting of the ice in April, the surviving
+ Indians rapidly grew fat and well, and of course the late summer and
+ the autumn brought them nuts (hickory and other kinds of walnut, and
+ hazel nuts), wild cherries, wild plums, raspberries, strawberries,
+ gooseberries, blackberries, currants,<a name="4-5"></a><a href="#note-4-5"><small>[5]</small></a> cranberries, and grapes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain observed amongst them for the first time the far-famed
+ Amerindian snowshoes, which he compares very aptly for shape to a
+ racquet used in tennis.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain next visited the site of Stadacona, but there was no longer
+ any settlement of Europeans at that place, nor were the native
+ Amerindians the descendants of the Hurons that had received Jacques
+ Cartier. For the first time the name Quebec (pronounced Kebek) is
+ applied to this point where the great River St. Lawrence narrows
+ before dividing to encircle the Isle of Orleans. In fact, Quebec meant
+ in the Algonkin speech a place where a river narrows; for a tribe of
+ the great Algonkin family, <i>the</i> Algonkins, allied to the tribes of
+ Maine and New Brunswick, had replaced the Hurons as the native
+ inhabitants of this region.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the shore of Quebec he noticed "diamonds" in some slate rocks&mdash;no
+ doubt quartz crystals. Proceeding on up the River St. Lawrence he
+ observed the extensive woods of fir and cypress (some kind of <i>Thuja</i>
+ or <i>Juniper</i>), the undergrowth of vines, "wild pears", hazel nuts,
+ cherries, red currants and green currants, and "certain little
+ radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles in taste,
+ which are very good when roasted or boiled". As they advanced towards
+ the interior the country became increasingly mountainous on the south
+ (the green mountains of New Hampshire), and was more and more
+ beautiful&mdash;"the pleasantest land yet seen". Landing on the south bank
+ of the St. Lawrence, west of the entrance of the river of the Iroquois
+ (the Richelieu), he found magnificent forests, which, besides the
+ trees already mentioned, included oaks, chestnuts, maples, pines,
+ walnut-like nut trees,<a name="4-6"></a><a href="#note-4-6"><small>[6]</small></a> aspens, poplars, and beeches; with climbing
+ hops and vines, strawberries trailing over the ground, and raspberry
+ canes and currant bushes "growing in the thick grass". These splendid
+ woods on the islands and banks of the broad river were full of game:
+ elks,<a name="4-7"></a><a href="#note-4-7"><small>[7]</small></a> wapiti deer, Virginian deer, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes,
+ beavers, otters, and musk rats, besides many animals he could not
+ recognize.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last his little expedition in "a skiff and canoe" had to draw into
+ the bank, warned by the noise that they were approaching a great fall
+ of water&mdash;the La Chine or St. Louis Rapids. Champlain wrote: "I saw,
+ to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity
+ such as I have never before witnessed.... It descends as if in steps,
+ and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to the force
+ and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is about
+ a league in length.... The territory on the side of the fall where we
+ went overland consists, so far as we saw it, of very open wood, where
+ one can go with his armour without much difficulty."
+</p>
+<p>
+ From the Algonkin Indians in the neighbourhood of these St. Louis
+ Rapids, and also from those living near Quebec, Champlain obtained a
+ good deal of geographical information to add to his own observations.
+ He was given an idea, more or less correct, of Lake Ontario, the Falls
+ of Niagara, Lake Erie and Lake Huron, and perhaps also of Lake
+ Superior, a sea so vast, said the Amerindians, that the sun set on its
+ horizon. This sheet of water, Champlain calculated, must be 1200 miles
+ distant to the west, and therefore identical with the "Mer du sud"
+ (Pacific Ocean), which all North-American explorers for three
+ centuries wished to reach.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After collecting much information about possible copper mines in the
+ regions north and south of the Lower St. Lawrence, and of silver<a name="4-8"></a><a href="#note-4-8"><small>[8]</small></a> in
+ New Brunswick or Nova Scotia, and a terrible story which he more than
+ half believed about a monster of prodigious size, the <i>Gougou</i>,<a name="4-9"></a><a href="#note-4-9"><small>[9]</small></a>
+ Champlain set sail for France at the end of August, 1603.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In April, 1604, Champlain accompanied the Sieur de Monts (who had
+ succeeded the dead Amyard de Chastes as head of a chartered
+ fur-trading association) in a fresh expedition to North America,
+ together with a hundred and twenty artisans and several noblemen.
+ They were to occupy the lands of "Cadie" (Acadia, Nova Scotia),
+ Canada, and other places in New France. De Monts thought Tadoussac and
+ Quebec too cold in wintertime, and preferred the sunnier east coast
+ regions. He aimed indeed at colonizing what is now New England.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the way to Nova Scotia, the expedition was nearly wrecked on Sable
+ Island, about one hundred and twenty miles south of Cape Breton
+ Island, and noticed there the large red cattle run wild from the bulls
+ and cows landed on Sable Island by the Portuguese some sixty years
+ earlier. (The Portuguese of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
+ deserved well of humanity for the generous way in which they left
+ cattle, goats, pigs, and rabbits to run wild on desert islands and
+ serve as provender for shipwrecked mariners like Robinson Crusoe.)
+ Champlain also speaks of the "fine large black foxes" which he and
+ other voyagers noticed on Sable Island. How they came there is a
+ mystery, unless the island had once been part of the mainland.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This same Sable Island had been the scene of an extraordinary
+ experiment at the end of the previous century. In 1598 the Marquis de
+ la Roche, given a commission to colonize New France, sailed in a small
+ ship for North America with sixty convicts from French prisons as
+ colonists. He landed them on Sable Island, and went away to look for
+ some good site for his colony. But then a storm arose, and his little
+ ship was literally blown back to France. The convicts, abandoned thus,
+ built themselves shelters out of the driftwood of wrecks; killed and
+ ate the cattle and caught fish. They made themselves warm clothes out
+ of the skins of the seals which frequented the island coast in
+ thousands. But these convicts quarrelled and fought among themselves
+ so fiercely that when at last a ship from Normandy came to take them
+ away, there were only twelve left&mdash;twelve shaggy men with long tangled
+ hair and beards; and, a legend says, in addition a Franciscan monk
+ who had been landed on the island with them as a kind of missionary or
+ chaplain, and who had been so heartbroken at their bloody quarrels and
+ horrible deeds that when the Norman ship arrived to take the castaways
+ back to France, the Franciscan refused to go with them, believing
+ himself to be dying and wishing to end his life undisturbed. So he was
+ left behind. But after the ship had sailed away he slowly mended, grew
+ well and strong, and cultivated eagerly his little garden. For food he
+ ate the whelks, mussels, and oysters that were so abundant on the
+ shore. Occasionally ships (then as now) were wrecked on Sable Island
+ in stormy weather, and the good monk ministered to the mariners who
+ reached the shore. Also he was visited, ever and again, by the Breton
+ fishing boats, which brought him supplies of necessaries and the bread
+ and wine for celebrating Mass. Long after his death his spirit was
+ thought to haunt the desolate island.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain and his companions passed on from Sable Island to the
+ south-east coast of Nova Scotia, noticing as they landed here and
+ there the abundance of rabbits<a name="4-10"></a><a href="#note-4-10"><small>[10]</small></a> and sea birds, especially the Great
+ Auk, of which they killed numbers with sticks, cormorants (whose fishy
+ eggs they ate with enjoyment), puffins, guillemots, gulls, terns,
+ scissorbills, divers, ospreys, buzzards, and falcons; and no doubt the
+ typical American white-tailed sea eagles, ravens, ducks, geese,
+ curlews, herons, and cranes. Here and there they found the shore
+ "completely covered with sea wolves"&mdash;seals, of course, probably the
+ common seal and the grey seal. Of these they captured as many as they
+ wanted, for the seals, like most of the birds, were quite unafraid of
+ man.
+</p>
+<p>
+ They then explored the Bay of Fundy, and, after zig-zagging about,
+ decided to fix on the harbour of St. John's (New Brunswick) as the
+ site for their colony. The future capital of New France, therefore,
+ was begun on La Sainte Croix (Dochet) Island, near the mouth of the
+ wonderful tidal estuary of the Uigudi (Ouygoudy) River.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here they passed the winter, but suffered so badly from scurvy<a name="4-11"></a><a href="#note-4-11"><small>[11]</small></a>
+ that, when in the spring of 1605 Du Pont Gravé arrived from Brittany
+ with supplies, the remnant of the colony was removed to the opposite
+ coast of Nova Scotia to Port Royal (afterwards named by the English
+ Annapolis<a name="4-12"></a><a href="#note-4-12"><small>[12]</small></a>). The French seem to have fallen in love with this place
+ from the very first. Nevertheless here they suffered from scurvy
+ during the winter as elsewhere. Before moving over here, however,
+ Champlain, together with De Monts, had explored the west of New
+ England south of New Brunswick as far as Plymouth, just south of
+ Boston.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Off the coast of Maine (Richmond's Island) they encountered
+ agricultural Amerindians of a new tribe, the Penobskot probably, who
+ cultivated a form of rank narcotic tobacco (<i>Nicotiana rustica</i>),
+ which they called <i>Petun</i>. (A variety of this has produced the
+ handsome garden flower <i>Petunia</i>, whose Latin name is derived from
+ this native word Petun.) They also grew maize or Indian corn, planting
+ very carefully three or four seeds in little mounds three feet apart
+ one from the other, the soil in between being kept clear of weeds. The
+ American farmers of to-day cannot adopt any better method.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The islands round about Portland (Maine) were matted all over with
+ wild red currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern anything
+ else. Attracted by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons had
+ assembled<a name="4-13"></a><a href="#note-4-13"><small>[13]</small></a>. They manifested hardly any fear of the French, who
+ captured large numbers of them in snares, or killed them with guns.
+ The natives of southern Maine fled with dismay on sighting the French
+ ships, for they had never before seen sailing vessels, but later on
+ they timidly approached the French ships in a canoe, then landed and
+ went through a wild dance on the shore to typify friendliness.
+ Champlain took with him some drawing paper and a pencil or crayon,
+ together with a quantity of knives and ship's biscuit. Landing alone,
+ he attracted the natives towards him by offering them biscuits, and
+ having gathered them round him (being of course as much unable to
+ understand their speech as they were French), he proceeded to ask
+ questions by means of certain drawings, chiefly the outlines of the
+ coast. The savages at once seized his idea, and taking up his pencil
+ drew on the paper an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, adding
+ also rivers and islands unknown to the French. They went on by further
+ intelligent signs to supply information. For instance, they placed six
+ pebbles at equal distances to intimate that Massachusetts Bay was
+ occupied by six tribes and governed by as many chiefs. By drawings of
+ growing maize and other plants they intimated that all these people
+ lived by agriculture.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain thought Massachusetts (in his first voyage) a most
+ attractive region in the summer, what with the blue water of the
+ enclosed arms of the sea, the lofty forest trees, and the fields of
+ Indian corn and other crops.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When these French explorers reached the harbour of Boston, the islands
+ and mainland were swarming with the native population. The Amerindians
+ were intensely interested in the arrival of the first sailing vessel
+ they had ever seen. Although it was only a small barque, its size was
+ greater than any canoe known to them. As it seemed to spread huge
+ white wings and to glide silently through the water without the use of
+ paddles or oars, it filled them with surprise and admiration. They
+ manned all their canoes<a name="4-14"></a><a href="#note-4-14"><small>[14]</small></a> and came out in a flotilla to express
+ their honour and reverence for the wonderful white men. But when the
+ French took their leave, it was equally obvious that the natives
+ experienced a sense of relief, for they were disquieted as well as
+ filled with admiration at the arrival of these wonderful beings from
+ an unknown world.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain describes the wigwams or native huts as being cone-shaped,
+ heavily thatched with reeds, with an opening at the top of the roof
+ for the smoke to escape. Inside the huts was a low bed raised a foot
+ from the ground and made of short posts driven into the ground, with a
+ surface made of boards split from trees. On these boards were laid
+ either the dressed skins of deer or bear, or thick mattresses made of
+ reeds or rushes. The beds were large enough for several people to lie
+ on. Champlain describes the huts as being full of fleas, and likewise
+ the persons of the nearly naked Indians, who carried these fleas out
+ with them into the fields when they were working, so that the
+ Frenchmen by stopping to talk to the natives became covered with
+ fleas to such an extent that they were obliged to change their
+ clothes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the fields were cultivated not only maize, but beans similar to the
+ beans grown by the natives of Brazil, vegetable marrows or pumpkins,
+ Jerusalem artichokes<a name="4-15"></a><a href="#note-4-15"><small>[15]</small></a>, radishes, and tobacco. The woods were filled
+ with oaks, walnut trees<a name="4-16"></a><a href="#note-4-16"><small>[16]</small></a>, and the red "cedar" of North America,
+ really a very large juniper, the foliage of which in the summertime
+ often assumes a reddish colour, together with the trunk. This
+ Virginian juniper or "red cedar" is now quite a common tree in
+ England. In warm weather it exhales a delicious aromatic scent.
+</p>
+<p>
+ All these natives of the Massachusetts coast were described by
+ Champlain as being almost naked in the summertime, wearing at most a
+ small piece of leather round the waist, and a short robe of spun hemp
+ which hung down over the shoulders. Their faces were painted red,
+ black and yellow. The men pulled out any hairs which might come on the
+ chin, and thus were beardless. They were armed with pikes, clubs,
+ bows, and arrows. The pikes were probably made of wood with the ends
+ hardened by being burnt to a point in the fire, and the arrow tips
+ were made of the sharp termination of the tail of the great
+ king-crab<a name="4-17"></a><a href="#note-4-17"><small>[17]</small></a>.
+</p>
+<p>
+ These Massachusetts "Indians" described to Champlain a wonderful bird
+ which at some seasons of the year they caught in snares and ate. This
+ Champlain at once guessed was the wild turkey, now, of course, quite
+ extinct in that region. This wild turkey of the eastern half of North
+ America (including southern Canada) was quite a distinct form from the
+ Mexican bird, which last is the origin of our domestic turkey.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In July, 1606, as De Monts had not returned from France, and the
+ little colony at Port Royal was without supplies, they decided to
+ leave two Frenchmen in charge of the local chief of the Mikmak
+ Indians, and find their way along the coast to Cape Breton, where they
+ might get a fishing vessel to take them back to France. But after
+ travelling in an open boat&mdash;a chaloupe&mdash;round the coast of Nova Scotia
+ they met another small boat off Cape Sable, under the charge of the
+ secretary of De Monts, and learnt that Lieutenant-General DE
+ POUTRINCOURT<a name="4-18"></a><a href="#note-4-18"><small>[18]</small></a> (one of the great names amongst the pioneers of
+ Canada, and the man who had really chosen Port Royal for the French
+ headquarters at Nova Scotia) had already returned from France with
+ fresh supplies. Consequently, Champlain and his companions returned to
+ Port Royal, and all set to work with eagerness to develop the
+ settlement. Champlain relates in his book how he created vegetable
+ gardens, trout streams and ponds, and a reservoir of salt water for
+ sea fish; but he was soon off again on a fresh journey of exploration,
+ because De Monts was not satisfied with Nova Scotia on account of the
+ cold in winter. Accordingly Champlain examined the whole coast round
+ the Bay of Fundy, and down to Cape Cod, and the islands of Martha's
+ Vineyard and Nantucket. But in this region, already visited in past
+ times by French, Spanish, and English ships, they found the natives
+ treacherous and hostile. An unprovoked attack was made on the French
+ after they landed, and several of the seamen were killed with arrows.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 24th of May, 1607, a small barque of six or seven tons burden
+ (fancy crossing the wide Atlantic from Brittany to Nova Scotia in a
+ ship of that size at the present day!) arrived outside Port Royal from
+ France, with an abrupt notification that De Monts' ten years' monopoly
+ and charter were <i>cancelled</i> by Henry IV, and that all the colony was
+ to be withdrawn and brought back to France. Henry IV took this action
+ simply because De Monts attempted to make his monopoly a real one,<a name="4-19"></a><a href="#note-4-19"><small>[19]</small></a>
+ and stop the ships of fur traders who were trading with the
+ Amerindians of Cape Breton without his licence. These fur traders of
+ Normandy then complained bitterly that because De Monts was a
+ Protestant he was allowed not only to have this monopoly, but to
+ endanger the spiritual welfare of the savages by spreading his false
+ doctrines! So King Henry IV, volatile and capricious, like most of the
+ French kings, cancelled a charter which had led to such heroic and
+ remarkable results.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The greater part of the little colony had to leave Port Royal and make
+ its way in small boats along the Nova Scotia coasts till they reached
+ Cape Breton Island. Here fishing vessels conveyed them back to
+ Brittany. It was in this boat journeying along the coast of Nova
+ Scotia that Champlain discovered Halifax Harbour, then called by the
+ Indian name of Shebuktu. As they passed along this coast with its many
+ islands, they feasted on ripe raspberries, which grew everywhere "in
+ the greatest possible quantity".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Poutrincourt, however, had succeeded in taking back with him samples
+ of the corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats which had been so
+ successfully grown on the island of Sainte Croix and at Port Royal,
+ and also presented to that monarch five brent-geese<a name="4-20"></a><a href="#note-4-20"><small>[20]</small></a> which he had
+ reared up from eggs hatched under a hen. The king was so delighted at
+ these presents that he once more veered about and gave to De Monts the
+ monopoly of the fur trade for one more year, in order to enable him to
+ renew his colonies in New France.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Sieur de Monts was again appointed by Henry IV Lieutenant-General
+ in New France. The latter engaged Champlain as his lieutenant, and
+ also sent out Du Pont Gravé in command of the second vessel, as head
+ of the trading operations. This time, on the advice of Champlain, the
+ expedition made its way directly to the St. Lawrence River, stopping
+ first at Tadoussac, where Du Pont Gravé proceeded to take very strong
+ measures with the Basque seamen, who were infringing his monopoly by
+ trading with the natives in furs. Apparently they were still allowed
+ to continue their whale fishery.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Once more Champlain heard from the Montagnais Indians of the great
+ Salt Sea to the north of Saguenay, in other words, the southern
+ extension of Hudson's Bay; and in his book he notes that the English
+ in these latter years "had gone thither to find their way to China".
+ However, he kept his intent fixed on the establishment of a French
+ colony along the St. Lawrence, and may be said to have founded the
+ city of Quebec (the site of which was then covered with nut trees) on
+ the 4th of July, 1608. Then his enterprise was near being wrecked by a
+ base conspiracy got up between a surgeon and a number of French
+ artisans, who believed that by seizing and killing Champlain, and then
+ handing over the infant settlement to the Spanish <a name="p69"></a>Basques, they might
+ enable these traders and fishermen with their good strong ships to
+ overcome Du Pont Gravé, and seize the whole country. Naturally (they
+ believed) the Basques would reward the conspirators, who would thus at
+ a stroke become rich men. They none of them wished to go to France,
+ but would live here independent of outside interference. A
+ conspirator, however, revealed the plot to Champlain as he was
+ planting one of the little gardens which he started as soon as he had
+ been in a place a few days. He went about his business very
+ discreetly, arrested all the leading conspirators, gave them a fair
+ trial, had the ringleader executed by Pont Gravé, and sent three
+ others back to France. After this he settled down at Quebec for the
+ winter, taking care, however, in the month of October, to plant seeds
+ and vines for coming up in the spring.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the summer of 1609 Champlain, apparently with the idea of thus
+ exploring the country south of the St. Lawrence, decided to accompany
+ a party of Algonkins and Hurons from Georgian Bay and the
+ neighbourhood of Montreal, who were bent on attacking the Iroquois
+ confederacy in the Mohawk country at the headwaters of the Hudson
+ River. He was accompanied by two French soldiers&mdash;Des Marais and La
+ Routte&mdash;and by a few Montagnais Indians from Tadoussac.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Hurons<a name="4-21"></a><a href="#note-4-21"><small>[21]</small></a> were really of the same group (as regards language and
+ descent) as the Iroquois (Irokwá), but in those days held aloof from
+ the five other tribes who had formed a confederacy<a name="4-22"></a><a href="#note-4-22"><small>[22]</small></a> and alliance
+ under the name of <i>Ongwehonwe</i>&mdash;"Superior Men". The Iroquois
+ (Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Kayugas, and Senekas) dominated much of
+ what is now New York State, and from the mountain country of the
+ Adirondaks and Catskills descended on the St. Lawrence valley and the
+ shores of Lakes Ontario and Huron to rob and massacre.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The route into the enemy's country lay along the Richelieu River and
+ across Lake Champlain to its southern end, in sight of the majestic
+ snow-crowned Adirondak Mountains. On the way the allies stopped at an
+ island, held a kind of review, and explained their tactics to
+ Champlain. They set no sentries and kept no strict watch at night,
+ being too tired; but during the daytime the army advanced as follows:
+ The main body marched in the centre along the warpath; a portion of
+ the troops diverged on either side to hunt up food for the expedition;
+ and a third section was told off for "intelligence" work, namely, they
+ ran on ahead and roundabout to locate the enemy, looking out
+ especially along the rivers for marks or signals showing whether
+ friends or enemies had passed that way. These marks were devised by
+ the chiefs of the different tribes, and were duly communicated to the
+ war leaders of tribes in friendship or alliance, like our cipher
+ codes; and equally they were changed from time to time to baffle the
+ enemy. Neither hunters nor main body ever got in front of the advance
+ guard, lest they should give an alarm. Thus they travelled until they
+ got within two days or so of the enemies' headquarters; thenceforward
+ they only marched by night, and hid in the woods by day, making no
+ fires or noise, and subsisting only on cooked maize meal.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At intervals the soothsayers accompanying the army were consulted for
+ signs and omens; and when the war-chiefs decided on their plan of
+ campaign they summoned all the fighting men to a smooth place in a
+ wood, cut sticks a foot long (as many as there were warriors), and
+ each leader of a division "put the sticks in such order as seemed to
+ him best, indicating to his followers the rank and order they were to
+ observe in battle. The warriors watched carefully this proceeding,
+ observing attentively the outline which their chief had made with the
+ sticks. Then they would go away and set to placing themselves in such
+ order as the sticks were in. This manoeuvre they repeated several
+ times, and at all their encampments, without needing a sergeant to
+ maintain them in the proper order they were able to keep accurately
+ the positions assigned to them" (Champlain).
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Hurons who were accompanying Champlain frequently questioned him
+ as to his dreams, they themselves having a great belief in the value
+ of dreams as omens and indications of future events. One day, when
+ they were approaching the country of the Iroquois, Champlain actually
+ did have a dream. In this he imagined that he saw the Iroquois enemies
+ drowning in a lake near a mountain. Moved to pity in his dream he
+ wished to help them, but his savage allies insisted that they must be
+ allowed to die. When he awoke he told the Amerindians of his dream,
+ and they were greatly impressed, as they regarded it as a good omen.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Near the modern town of Ticonderoga the Hurons and Algonkins of
+ Georgian Bay and Ottawa met a party of Iroquois, probably of the
+ Mohawk tribe. The Iroquois had built rapidly a stockade in which to
+ retreat if things should go badly with them, but the battle at first
+ began in the old heroic style with as much ceremony as a French duel.
+ First the allies from the St. Lawrence asked the Iroquois what time it
+ would suit them to begin fighting the next day; then the latter
+ replied: "When the sun is well up, if you don't mind? We can see
+ better then to kill you all." Accordingly in the bright morning the
+ Hurons and Algonkins advanced against the circular stockade of the
+ Iroquois, and the Iroquois marched out to fight in great pomp, their
+ leaders wearing plumed headdresses. With this exception both parties
+ fought quite naked, and armed only with bows and arrows.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I marched twenty paces in advance of the rest" (wrote Champlain)
+ "till I was within about thirty paces of the Iroquois.... I rested my
+ musket against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three
+ chiefs. With the same shot two fell to the ground, and one of their
+ men was so wounded that he died some time afterwards. I had loaded my
+ musket with four balls. When they saw I had shot so favourably for
+ them, they (the Algonkins and Hurons) raised such loud cries that one
+ could not have heard it thunder.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Meantime the arrows flew on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly
+ astonished that two men had been so quickly killed, though they were
+ equipped with armour woven from copper thread and with wood, which was
+ proof against their arrows."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Whilst Champlain was loading to fire again one of his two companions
+ fired a shot from the woods, whereupon the Iroquois took to flight,
+ abandoning their camp and fort. As they fled they threw off their
+ armour of wooden boards and cotton cloth.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As to the way in which the Hurons tortured their Iroquois prisoners,
+ Champlain writes of one instance.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "They commanded him (the prisoner) to sing, if he had courage, which
+ he did, but it was a very sad song." The Hurons kindled a fire, and
+ when it was well alight they each took a brand from the blaze, the end
+ of which was red-hot, and with this burnt the bodies of their
+ prisoners tied to stakes. Every now and then they stopped and threw
+ water over them to restore them from fainting. Then they tore out
+ their finger nails and applied fire to the extremities of the fingers.
+ After that they tore the scalps off their heads, and poured over the
+ raw and bleeding flesh a kind of hot gum. Then they pierced the arms
+ of the prisoners near the wrists, and drew up their sinews with sticks
+ inserted underneath, trying to tear them out by force, and, if
+ failing, cutting them. One poor wretch "uttered such terrible cries
+ that it excited my pity to see him treated in this manner, yet at
+ other times he showed such firmness that one would have said he
+ suffered scarcely any pain at all".
+</p>
+<p>
+ In this case Champlain, seeing that the man could not recover from his
+ injuries, drew apart and shot him dead, "thus putting an end to all
+ the tortures he would have suffered".
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the savage Hurons were not yet satisfied. They opened the corpse
+ and threw its entrails into the lake. Then they cut off head, arms,
+ and legs, and cut out the heart; this they minced up, and endeavoured
+ to force the other prisoners to eat it.
+</p>
+<p>
+ With those of his allies who were Montagnais Indians from Tadoussac,
+ Champlain returned to that place. As they neared the shore the
+ Montagnais women undressed themselves, jumped into the river, and swam
+ to the prows of the canoes, from which they took the heads of the
+ slain Iroquois. These they hung about their necks as if they had been
+ some costly chain, singing and dancing meanwhile.
+</p>
+<p>
+ However, in spite of these and other horrors, Champlain had "separated
+ from his Upper Canadian allies with loud protestations of mutual
+ friendship", promising to go again into their country and assist them
+ with continued "fraternal" relations.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From this expedition Champlain learned much regarding the geography of
+ eastern North America, and he brought back with him to France, to
+ present to King Henry IV, two scarlet tanagers&mdash;one of the commonest
+ and most beautiful birds of the eastern United States&mdash;a girdle of
+ porcupine quills made from the Canadian <a name="p74"></a>porcupine, and the head of a
+ gar-pike caught in Lake Champlain.<a name="4-23"></a><a href="#note-4-23"><small>[23]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ On Champlain's return from France in 1610 (he and other Frenchmen and
+ Englishmen of the time made surprisingly little fuss about crossing
+ the North Atlantic in small sailing vessels, in spite of the storms of
+ spring and autumn) he found the Iroquois question still agitating the
+ minds of the Algonkins, Montagnais, and Hurons. Representatives of
+ these tribes were ready to meet this great captain of the <i>Mistigosh</i>
+ or <i>Matigosh</i><a name="4-24"></a><a href="#note-4-24"><small>[24]</small></a> (as they called the French), and implored him to
+ keep his promise to take part in another attack on the dreaded enemy
+ of the Adirondak heights. Apparently the Iroquois (Mohawks) this time
+ had advanced to meet the attack, and were ensconced in a round
+ fortress of logs built near the Richelieu River.<a name="4-25"></a><a href="#note-4-25"><small>[25]</small></a> The Algonkins and
+ their allies on this expedition were armed with clubs, swords, and
+ shields, as well as bows and arrows. The swords of copper(?) were
+ really knife blades attached to long sticks like billhooks. Before the
+ barricade, as usual, both parties commenced the fight by hurling
+ insults at each other till they were out of breath, and shouting "till
+ one could not have heard it thunder". The circular log barricade,
+ however, would never have been taken by the Algonkins and their
+ allies but for the assistance of Champlain and three or four
+ Frenchmen, who with their musketry fire at short range paralysed the
+ Iroquois. Champlain and one other Frenchman were wounded with arrows
+ in the neck and arm, but not seriously. The victory of the allies was
+ followed by the usual torture of prisoners, which Champlain made a
+ slight&mdash;only slight&mdash;attempt to prevent.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But results far more serious arose from these two skirmishes with the
+ Iroquois in 1609 and 1610. The Confederacy of the Five Nations
+ (afterwards six) realized that they had been attacked unprovoked by
+ the dominant white men of the St. Lawrence, called by the Montagnais
+ <i>Mistigosh</i>, and by the Iroquois <i>Adoreset&#363;i</i> ("men of iron", from
+ their armour). They became the bitter enemies of the French, and
+ tendered help first to the Dutch to establish themselves in the valley
+ of the Hudson, and secondly to the English. In the great Colonial wars
+ of the early eighteenth century the Iroquois were invaluable allies to
+ the British forces, Colonial and Imperial, and counted for much in the
+ struggle which eventually cost France Nova Scotia, New Brunswick,
+ Maine, the two Canadas, and Louisiana. On the other hand, the French
+ alliance with the Hurons, Algonkins, and Montagnais, begun by this
+ brotherhood-in-arms with Champlain, secured for France and the French
+ such widespread liking among the tribes of Algonkin speech, and their
+ allies and friends, that the two Canadas and much of the Middle West,
+ together with Michigan, Wisconsin, and Illinois, became French in
+ sympathy without any war of conquest. When the French dominion over
+ North America fell, in 1759, with the capture of Quebec by Wolfe's
+ army, tribes of Amerindians went on fighting for five years afterwards
+ to uphold the banner and the rule of the beloved French king.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On Champlain's next visit to Canada, in 1610, he handed over to the
+ Algonkin Indians a French youth named Étienne Brulé (see p. <a href="#p88">88</a>), to
+ be taught the Algonkin language (the use of which was spread far and
+ wide over north-east America), and, further, sent a Huron youth to
+ France to be taught French. Between 1611 and 1616 he had explored much
+ of the country between Montreal (the foundations of which city he may
+ be said to have laid on May 29, 1611, for his stockaded camp is now in
+ the centre of it) and Lakes Huron and Ontario, especially along the
+ Ottawa River, that convenient short cut (as a water route) between the
+ St. Lawrence at Sault St. Louis (Montreal) and Lakes Huron and
+ Superior. With short portages you can get in canoes from Montreal to
+ the waters of Hudson Bay, or to Lake Winnipeg and the base of the
+ Rocky Mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In exploring this "River of the Algonkins" (as he called it),
+ Champlain was nearly drowned between two rocks, and much hurt, from
+ over bravery and want of knowledge of how to deal with a canoe on
+ troubled water; but on June 4, 1613, he stood on the site of the
+ modern city of Ottawa&mdash;the capital of the vast Canadian Dominion&mdash;and
+ gazed at the marvellous Rideau or Curtain Fall, where the Rideau River
+ enters the Ottawa. But the air was resonant with the sound of falling
+ water. Three miles above the falls of the Gatineau and the Rideau, the
+ main Ottawa River descended with a roar and a whirl of white foam and
+ rainbow-tinted mist into the chasm called the Chaudière or Kettle. On
+ a later occasion he describes the way in which the Algonkins
+ propitiated the Spirit of the Chasm:
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Continuing our way, we came to the Chaudière Falls, where the savages
+ carried out their customary ceremony. After transporting their canoes
+ to the foot of the fall they assemble in one spot, where one of them
+ takes up a collection on a wooden platter, into which each person puts
+ a bit of tobacco. The collection having been made, the plate is placed
+ in the midst of the troop, and all dance about it, singing after
+ their style. Then one of the captains makes an harangue, setting forth
+ that for a long time they have been accustomed to make this offering,
+ by which means they are ensured protection against their enemies, that
+ otherwise misfortune would befall them from the evil spirit. This
+ done, the maker of the harangue takes the plate and throws the tobacco
+ into the midst of the cauldron (the chasm of foaming water), whereupon
+ they all together raise a loud cry. These poor people are so
+ superstitious, that they would not believe it possible for them to
+ make a prosperous journey without observing this ceremony at this
+ place; for sometimes their enemies (Iroquois) await them at this
+ portage, not venturing to go any farther on account of the difficulty
+ of the journey. Consequently they are occasionally surprised and
+ killed by the Iroquois at this place (the south bank of the Ottawa)."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Above the Chaudière Champlain met the Algonkin chief, Tessouat, and
+ thus described the burial places of his tribe:
+</p>
+<p>
+ "On visiting the island I observed their cemeteries, and was struck
+ with wonder as I saw sepulchres of a shape like shrines, made of
+ pieces of wood fixed in the ground at a distance of about three feet
+ from each other, and intersecting at the upper end. On the
+ intersections above they place a large piece of wood, and in front
+ another upright piece on which is carved roughly, as would be
+ expected, the figure of the male or female interred. If it is a man,
+ they add a shield, a sword attached to a handle after their manner, a
+ mace, and bow and arrows. If it is a chief, there is a plume on his
+ head, and some other <i>matachia</i> or embellishment. If it is a child,
+ they give it a bow and arrow, if a woman or girl, a boiler, an earthen
+ vessel, a wooden spoon, and an oar. The entire sepulchre is six or
+ seven feet long at most, and four wide; others are smaller. They are
+ painted yellow and red, with various ornaments as neatly done as the
+ carving. The deceased is buried with his dress of beaver or other
+ skins which he wore when living, and they lay by his side all his
+ possessions, as hatchets, knives, boilers, and awls, so that these
+ things may serve him in the land whither he goes; for they believe in
+ the immortality of the soul, as I have elsewhere observed. These
+ carved sepulchres are only made for the warriors, for in respect to
+ others they add no more than in the case of women, who are considered
+ a useless class, accordingly but little is added in their case."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the summer of 1615 Champlain, returning from France, made his way
+ up the Ottawa River, and, by a short portage, to Lake Nipissing,
+ thence down French River to the waters of Lake Huron. On the banks of
+ the French River he met a detachment of the Ottawa tribe (of the
+ Algonkin family). These people he styled the <i>Cheveux Relevés</i>,
+ because the men's hair was gathered up and dressed more carefully and
+ becomingly on the top of the head than (he says) could at that time be
+ done by a hairdresser in France. This arrangement of the hair gave the
+ men a very handsome appearance, but here their toilet ended, for they
+ wore no clothes whatever (in the summertime), making up for this
+ simplicity by painting their faces in different colours, piercing
+ their ears and nostrils and decorating them with shell beads, and
+ tattooing their bodies and limbs with elaborate patterns.
+</p>
+<p>
+ These Ottawas carried a club, a long bow and arrows, and a round
+ shield of dressed leather, made (wrote Champlain) "from the skin of an
+ animal like the buffalo".<a name="4-26"></a><a href="#note-4-26"><small>[26]</small></a> The chief of the party explained many
+ things to the white man by drawing with a piece of charcoal on the
+ white bark of the birch tree. He gave him to understand that the
+ present occupation of his band of warriors was the gathering of
+ blueberries, which would be dried in the sun, and could then be
+ preserved for eating during the winter.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From French River, Champlain passed southwards to the homeland of the
+ Hurons, which lay to the east of what Champlain called "the Fresh
+ Water Sea" (Lake Huron). This country he describes in enthusiastic
+ terms. The Hurons, like the other Iroquois tribes (and unlike the
+ hunting races to the north of them), were agriculturists, and
+ cultivated pumpkins, sunflowers,<a name="4-27"></a><a href="#note-4-27"><small>[27]</small></a> beans and Indian corn.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Hurons persuaded Champlain to go with them to attack the Iroquois
+ tribe of the Senekas (Entuhónorons) on the south shores of Lake
+ Ontario. On the way thither he noticed the abundance of stags and
+ bears, and, near the lake, of cranes, white and purple-brown.<a name="4-28"></a><a href="#note-4-28"><small>[28]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the southern shores of the lake<a name="4-29"></a><a href="#note-4-29"><small>[29]</small></a> were large numbers <a name="p80"></a>of chestnut
+ trees, "whose fruit was still in the burr. The chestnuts are small but
+ of a good flavour." The southern country was covered with forests,
+ with very few clearings. After crossing the Oneida River the Hurons
+ captured eleven of the Senekas, four women, one girl, three boys, and
+ three men. The people had left the stockade in which their relations
+ were living to go and fish by the lake shore. One of the Huron
+ chiefs&mdash;the celebrated Iroquet, who had been so much associated with
+ Champlain from the time of his arrival&mdash;proceeded at once to cut off
+ the finger of one of these women prisoners. Whereupon Champlain,
+ firmer than in years gone by, interposed and reprimanded him, pointing
+ out that it was not the act of a warrior such as he declared himself
+ to be, to conduct himself with cruelty towards women "who had no
+ defence but their tears, so that one should treat them with humanity
+ on account of their helplessness and weakness". Champlain went on to
+ say that this act was base and brutal, and that if he committed any
+ more of such cruelties he, Champlain, "would have no heart to assist
+ or favour them in the war". To this Iroquet replied that their enemies
+ treated them in the same manner, but that since this was displeasing
+ to the Frenchmen he would not do anything more to women, but he would
+ not promise to refrain from torturing the men.
+</p>
+<p>
+ However, in the subsequent fighting which occurred when they reached
+ the six-sided stockade of the Senekas (a strong fortification which
+ faced a large pond on one side, and was surrounded by a moat
+ everywhere else except at the entrance), the Hurons and Algonkins
+ showed a great lack of discipline. Champlain and the few Frenchmen
+ with him, by using their arquebuses, drove the enemy back into the
+ fort, but not without having some of their Indian allies wounded or
+ killed. Champlain proposed to the Hurons that they should erect what
+ was styled in French a <i>cavalier</i>&mdash;a kind of box, with high, loopholed
+ sides, which was erected on a tall scaffolding of stout timbers. This
+ was to be carried by the Hurons to within a pike's length of the
+ stockade. Four French arquebusiers then scrambled up into the
+ <i>cavalier</i> and fired through the loopholes into the huts of the Seneka
+ town. Meantime the Hurons were to set fire, if possible, to the wooden
+ stockade. They managed the whole business so stupidly that the fire
+ produced no effect, the flames being blown in the opposite direction
+ to that which was desired. The brave Senekas threw water on to the
+ blazing sticks and put out the fire. Champlain was wounded by an arrow
+ in the leg and knee. The reinforcement of the five hundred Hurons
+ expected by the allies did not turn up. The Hurons with Champlain lost
+ heart, and insisted on retreating. Only the dread of the French
+ firearms prevented the retreat being converted into a complete
+ disaster. Whenever the Senekas came near enough to get speech with the
+ French they asked them "why they interfered with native quarrels".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain being unable to walk, the Hurons made a kind of basket,
+ similar to that in which they carried their wounded. In this he was so
+ crowded into a heap, and bound and pinioned, that it was as impossible
+ for him to move "as it would be for an infant in his swaddling
+ clothes". This treatment caused him considerable pain after he had
+ been carried for some days; in fact he suffered agonies while fastened
+ in this way on to the back of a savage.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He was afterwards obliged to pass the winter of 1615-6 in the Huron
+ country. At that time it swarmed with game. Amongst birds, there were
+ swans, white cranes, brent-geese, ducks, teal, the redbreasted thrush
+ (which the Americans call "robin"), brown larks (<i>Anthus</i>), snipe, and
+ other birds too numerous to mention, which Champlain seems to have
+ brought down with his fowling-piece in sufficient quantities to feed
+ the whole party whilst waiting for the capture of deer on a large
+ scale.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Meanwhile, many of the Indians were catching fish, "trout and pike of
+ prodigious size". When they desired to secure a large number of deer,
+ they would make an enclosure in a fir forest in the form of the two
+ converging sides of a triangle, with an open base. The two sides of
+ these traps were made of great stakes of wood closely pressed
+ together, from 8 to 9 feet high; and each of the sides was 1000 yards
+ long. At the point of the triangle there was a little enclosure. The
+ Hurons were so expeditious in this work that in less than ten days
+ these long fences and the "pound" or enclosure at their convergence
+ were finished. They then started before daybreak and scattered
+ themselves in the woods at a considerable distance behind the
+ commencement of these fences, each man separated from his fellow by
+ about 80 yards. Every Huron carried two pieces of wood, one like a
+ drumstick and the other like a flat, resonant board. They struck the
+ flat piece of wood with the drumstick and it made a loud clanging
+ sound. The deer who swarmed in the forest, hearing this noise, fled
+ before the savages, who drove them steadily towards the converging
+ fences. As they closed up, the Hurons imitated very cleverly the
+ yapping of wolves. This frightened the deer still more, so that they
+ huddled at last into the final enclosure, where they were so tightly
+ packed that they were completely at the men's mercy. "I assure you,"
+ writes Champlain, "there is a singular pleasure in this chase, which
+ takes place every two days, and has been so successful that in
+ thirty-eight days one hundred and twenty deer were captured. These
+ were made good use of, the fat being kept for the winter to be used as
+ we do butter, and some of the flesh to be taken to their homes for
+ their festivities."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Champlain himself, in the winter of 1615, pursuing one day a
+ remarkable bird "which was the size of a hen, had a beak like a parrot
+ and was entirely yellow, except for a red head and blue wings, and
+ which had the flight of the partridge"&mdash;a bird I cannot
+ identify&mdash;lost his way in the woods. For two days he wandered in the
+ wilderness, sustaining himself by shooting birds and roasting them.
+ But at last he found his way back to a river which he recognized, and
+ reached the camp of the Hurons, who were extremely delighted at his
+ return. Had they not found him, or had he not come back of himself,
+ they told him that they could never again have visited the French for
+ fear of being held responsible for his death.
+</p>
+<p>
+ By the month of December of this year (1615) the rivers, lakes, and
+ ponds were all frozen. Hitherto, Champlain had had to walk when he
+ could not travel in a canoe, and carry a load of twenty pounds, while
+ the Indians carried a hundred pounds each. But now the water was
+ frozen the Hurons set to work and made their sledges. These were
+ constructed of two pieces of board, manufactured from the trunks of
+ trees by the patient use of a stone axe and by the application of
+ fire. These boards were about 6 inches wide, and 6 or 7 feet long,
+ curved upwards at the forward end and bound together by cross pieces.
+ The sides were bordered with strips of wood, which served as brackets
+ to which was fastened the strap that bound the baggage upon the
+ sledge. The load was dragged by a rope or strap of leather passing
+ round the breast of the Indian, and attached to the end of the sledge.
+ The sledge was so narrow that it could be drawn easily without
+ impediment wherever an Indian could thread his way over the snow
+ through the pathless forests.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The rest of the winter and early spring Champlain spent alone, or in
+ company with Father Joseph Le Caron (one of the Recollet
+ missionaries), visiting the Algonkin and Huron tribes in the region
+ east of Lake Huron. He has left this description of the modern country
+ of Simcoe, the home, three hundred years ago, of the long-vanished
+ Hurons<a name="4-30"></a><a href="#note-4-30"><small>[30]</small></a>; and gives us the following particulars of their home
+ life. The Huron country was a pleasant land, most of it cleared of
+ forest. It contained eighteen villages, six of which were enclosed and
+ fortified by palisades of wood in triple rows, bound together, on the
+ top of which were galleries provided with stores of stones, and
+ birch-bark buckets of water; the stones to throw at an enemy, and the
+ water to extinguish any fire which might be put to the palisades.
+ These eighteen villages contained about two thousand warriors, and
+ about thirty thousand people in all. The houses were in the shape of
+ tunnels, and were thatched with the bark of trees. Each lodge or house
+ would be about 120 feet long, more or less, and 36 feet wide, with a
+ 10-foot passage-way through the middle from one end to the other. On
+ either side of the tunnel were placed benches 4 feet high, on which
+ the people slept in summer in order to avoid the annoyance of the
+ fleas which swarmed in these habitations. In winter time they slept on
+ the ground on mats near the fire. In the summer the cabins were filled
+ with stocks of wood to dry and be ready for burning in winter. At the
+ end of each of these long houses was a space in which the Indian corn
+ was preserved in great casks made of the bark of trees. Inside the
+ long houses pieces of wood were suspended from the roof, on to which
+ were fastened the clothes, provisions, and other things of the
+ inmates, to keep them from the attacks of the mice which swarmed in
+ these villages. Each hut might be inhabited by twenty-four families,
+ who would maintain twelve fires. The smoke, having no proper means of
+ egress except at either end of the long dwelling, and through the
+ chinks of the roof, so injured their eyes during the winter season
+ that many people lost their sight as they grew old.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their life", writes Champlain, "is a miserable one in comparison
+ with our own, but they are happy amongst themselves, not having
+ experienced anything better, nor imagining that anything more
+ excellent could be found."
+</p>
+<p>
+ These Amerindians ordinarily ate two meals a day, and although
+ Champlain and his men fasted all through Lent, "in order to influence
+ them by our example", that was one of the practices they did <i>not</i>
+ copy from the French.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Hurons of this period painted their faces black and red, mixing
+ the colours with oil made from sunflower seed, or with bears' fat. The
+ hair was carefully combed and oiled, and sometimes dyed a reddish
+ colour; it might be worn long or short, or only on one side of the
+ head. The women usually dressed theirs in one long plait. Sometimes it
+ was done up into a knot at the back of the head, bound with eelskin.
+ The men were usually dressed in deerskin breeches, with gaiters of
+ soft leather. The shoes ("Moccasins") were made of the skin of deer,
+ bears, or beavers. In addition to this the men in cold weather wore a
+ great cloak. The edges of these cloaks would often be decorated with
+ bands of brown and red colour alternating with strips of a
+ whitish-blue, and ornamented with bands of porcupine quills. These,
+ which were originally white or grey in colour, had been previously
+ dyed a fine scarlet with colouring matter from the root of the
+ bed-straw (<i>Galium tinctorum</i>). The women were loaded with necklaces
+ of violet or white shell beads, bracelets, ear-rings, and great
+ strings of beads falling below the waist. Sometimes they would have
+ plates of leather studded with shell beads and hanging over the back.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0004"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc04.jpg" width="270" height="425"
+alt="Samuel de Champlain; Alexander Henry the Elder">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN and ALEXANDER HENRY THE ELDER</h5>
+<p>
+ In 1616 Champlain returned to France, but visited Quebec in 1617 and
+ 1618. During the years spent at Quebec, which followed his
+ explorations of 1616, he was greatly impeded in his work of
+ consolidating Canada as a French colony by the religious strife
+ between the Catholics and Huguenots, and the narrow-minded greed of
+ the Chartered company of fur-trading merchants for whom he worked. But
+ in 1620 he came back to Canada as Lieutenant-Governor (bringing his
+ wife with him), and after attending to the settlement of a violent
+ commercial dispute between fur-trading companies he tried to compose
+ the quarrel between the Iroquois and the Algonkins, and brought about
+ a truce which lasted till 1627.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1628 came the first English attack on Canada. A French fleet was
+ defeated and captured in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and in the
+ following year Champlain, having been obliged to surrender Quebec (he
+ had only sixteen soldiers as a garrison, owing to lack of food),
+ voyaged to England more or less as a prisoner of state in the summer
+ of 1629. He found, on arriving there, that the cession of Quebec was
+ null and void, peace having been concluded between Britain and France
+ two months before the cession. Charles I remained true to his compact
+ with Louis XIII, and Quebec and Nova Scotia were restored to French
+ keeping. In 1633 Champlain returned to Canada as Governor, bringing
+ with him a considerable number of French colonists. <i>It is from 1633
+ that the real French colonization of Canada begins</i>: hitherto there
+ had been only one family of settlers in the fixed sense of the word;
+ the other Frenchmen were fur traders, soldiers, and missionaries. But
+ Champlain only lived two years after his triumphant return, and died
+ at Quebec on Christmas Day, 1635.
+</p>
+<p>
+ His character has been so well summed up by Dr. S.E. Dawson, in his
+ admirable book on the <i>Story of the St. Lawrence Basin</i>, that I cannot
+ do better than quote his words:
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Champlain was as much at home in the brilliant court of France as in
+ a wigwam on a Canadian lake, as patient and politic with a wild band
+ of savages on Lake Huron as with a crowd of grasping traders in St.
+ Malo or Dieppe. Always calm, always unselfish, always depending on
+ God, in whom he believed and trusted, and thinking of France, which he
+ loved, this single-hearted man resolutely followed the path of his
+ duty under all circumstances; never looking for ease or asking for
+ profit, loved by the wild people of the forest, respected by the
+ courtiers of the king, and trusted by the close-fisted merchants of
+ the maritime cities of France."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-4-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-1"><u>1</u></a> Afterwards the Sieur de Champlain. The title of <i>Sieur</i>
+ (from the Latin <i>Senior</i>) is the origin of the English "sir", and is
+ about equivalent to an English baronetcy.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-2"><u>2</u></a> Correctly written this was François Gravé, Sieur du
+ Pont.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-3"><u>3</u></a> The full name was Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts.
+ Including de Champlain and de Poutrincourt, who will be described
+ later, we have here the four great heroes who founded French Canada.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-4"><u>4</u></a> The real name for this remarkable people, the Eskimo, is,
+ in Alaska and Arctic North America, <i>Innuit</i>, and in Labrador and
+ Greenland, <i>Karalit</i>. Eskimo (in French, <i>Esquimaux</i>) is said to be a
+ corruption of the Montagnais-Indian word, Eskimantsik, meaning "eaters
+ of raw flesh".
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-5"><u>5</u></a> The wild currants so often mentioned by the early
+ explorers of Canada are often referred to as red, green, and blue. The
+ blue currants are really the black currant, now so familiar to our
+ kitchen gardens (<i>Ribes nigrum</i>). This, together with the red currant
+ (<i>Ribes rubrum</i>), grows throughout North America, Siberia, and eastern
+ Europe. The unripe fruit may have been the green currants alluded to
+ by Champlain, or these may have been the white variety of our gardens.
+ The two species of wild strawberry which figure so frequently in the
+ stories of these early explorers are <i>Fragaria vesca</i> and <i>F.
+ virginiana</i>. From the last-named is derived the cultivated strawberry
+ of Europe. The wild strawberries of North America were larger than
+ those of Europe. Champlain does not himself allude to gooseberries
+ (unless they are his <i>groseilles vertes</i>), but later travellers do.
+ Three or more kinds of gooseberry grow wild in Canada, but they are
+ different from the European species. The blueberry so often Mentioned
+ by Champlain (bluëts or bluës) was <i>Vaccinium canadense</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-6"><u>6</u></a> Of the genera <i>Juglans</i> and <i>Carya</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-7"><u>7</u></a> The huge deer of the genus <i>Alces</i>. Elk is the old
+ Scandinavian name. <i>Moose</i>, derived from the Kri language, is the
+ Canadian term, "Elk" being misapplied to the wapiti (red) deer.
+ Champlain calls the elk <i>orignac</i>, its name in Algonkin.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-8"><u>8</u></a> Or lead mixed with silver. The local natives used this
+ ore, which was white when beaten, for their arrowheads.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-9"><u>9</u></a> The Gougou dwelt on the small island of Miscon, to the
+ east of the Bay of Chaleurs. It had the form of a woman but was about
+ a hundred feet high. Its habit was to catch and devour men and women,
+ whom it first placed in a pocket capacious enough to hold a small
+ ship. Its roarings and hissings could be heard at times coming from
+ the island of Miscon, where the Gougou lay concealed. Even a
+ Frenchman, the Sieur Prévert, had heard these noises. Probably this
+ islet had a whirlpool communicating with a cavern into which fishermen
+ were sucked by the current.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-10"><u>10</u></a> There are no real rabbits in America. This was probably
+ the Polar Hare (<i>Lepus timidus glacialis</i>), or the common small
+ varying hare (<i>L. americanus</i>).
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-11"><u>11</u></a> How awful was this "mal de terre" or scurvy amongst the
+ French settlers may be seen from this description of Champlain: "There
+ were produced in the mouths of those who had it great pieces of
+ superfluous and drivelling flesh, which got the upper hand to such an
+ extent that scarcely anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth
+ became very loose and could be pulled out with the fingers without its
+ causing them pain.... Afterwards a violent pain seized their arms and
+ legs, which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with
+ fleabites; and they could not walk on account of the contraction of
+ the muscles.... They suffered intolerable pains in the loins, stomach,
+ and bowels, and had a very bad cough and short breath.... Out of
+ seventy-nine who composed our party, thirty-five died and twenty were
+ on the point of death (when spring began in May)."<br><br>
+
+ Scurvy is said to be a disease of the blood caused by a damp, cold,
+ and impure atmosphere combined with absence of vegetable food and a
+ diet of salted or semi-putrid meat or fish, such as was so often the
+ winter food of Amerindians and of the early French pioneers in Canada.
+ We have already noted Cartier's discovery of the balsam remedy.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-12"><u>12</u></a> From Queen Anne.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-13"><u>13</u></a> The pigeons referred to by Champlain were probably the
+ Passenger pigeon (<i>Ectopistes</i>) which at one time was extraordinarily
+ abundant in parts of North America, though it has now been nearly
+ killed out by man. It would arrive in flocks of millions on its
+ migratory journeys in search of food.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-14"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-14"><u>14</u></a> It is interesting to learn from his accurate notes that
+ in Massachusetts (and from thence southwards) there were no more bark
+ canoes, but that the canoes were "dug-outs"&mdash;trunks of tall trees
+ burnt and chipped till they were hollowed into a narrow vessel of
+ considerable length.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-15"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-15"><u>15</u></a> This tuber, which is a well-known and very useful
+ vegetable in England, comes from the root of a species of sunflower
+ (<i>Helianthus tuberosus</i>). It has nothing to do with the real
+ artichoke, which is a huge and gorgeous thistle, and it has equally
+ nothing to do with Jerusalem. The English people have always taken a
+ special delight in mispronouncing and corrupting words in order to
+ produce as much confusion as possible in their names for things.
+ Jerusalem is a corruption of <i>Girasole</i>, which is the Italian name
+ given to this sunflower with the edible roots, because its flower is
+ supposed always to turn towards the sun. The Jerusalem artichoke was
+ originally a native of North America.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-16"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-16"><u>16</u></a> These walnut trees were afterwards known in modern
+ American speech as hickories, butter-nuts, and pig-nuts, all of which
+ are allied to, but distinct from, the European walnut.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-17"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-17"><u>17</u></a> <i>Limulus polyphemus</i>. This extraordinary crustacean is
+ one of the oldest of living animals in its history, as it is closely
+ related to the Xiphosura and even the Trilobites of the Primary Epoch,
+ which existed millions of years ago. In a rough way it is a kind of
+ connecting link between the Crustacea, or crabs and lobsters, and the
+ Scorpions and spiders.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-18"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-18"><u>18</u></a> Jean de Biencourt, the Sieur de Poutrincourt and Baron
+ de Saint-Just, were his full titles.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-19"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-19"><u>19</u></a> You will observe that neither the French nor the English
+ sovereigns of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries went to much
+ personal expense over the creation of colonies. They simply gave a
+ charter or a monopoly, which cost them nothing, but which made other
+ people pay.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-20"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-20"><u>20</u></a> <i>Branta canadensis</i>, a handsome black-and-brown goose
+ with white markings, which the French pioneers in Canada styled
+ "outarde" or "bustard", and whose eggs were considered very good
+ eating.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-21"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-21"><u>21</u></a> Huron was a French name given to the westernmost group
+ of the Iroquois family (see p. <a href="#p159">159</a>). The Huron group included the
+ Waiandots, the Eries or Erigas, the Arendáronons, and the Atiwándoronk
+ or "neutral" nation. The French sometimes called all these Huron
+ tribes "the good Iroquois". Iroquois was probably pronounced "Irokwá",
+ and seems to have been derived from a word like Irokosia, the name of
+ the Adirondack mountain country.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-22"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-22"><u>22</u></a> The confederacy was founded about 1450 by the great
+ Hiawatha (of Longfellow's Poem), himself an Onondaga from south of
+ Lake Ontario, but backed by the Mohawks only, in the beginning of his
+ work.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-23"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-23"><u>23</u></a> Unconsciously, no doubt, he brought away with him to the
+ King of France one of the most remarkable freshwater fish living on
+ the North-American continent, for the gar-pike belongs, together with
+ the sturgeon and its allies, to an ancient type of fish the
+ representatives of which are found in rock formations as ancient as
+ those of the Secondary and Early Tertiary periods. Champlain may be
+ said to have discovered this remarkable gar-pike (<i>Lepidosteus
+ osseus</i>), which is covered with bony scales "so strong that a poniard
+ could not pierce them". The colour he describes as silver-grey. The
+ head has a snout two feet and a half long, and the jaws possess double
+ rows of sharp and dangerous teeth. These teeth were used by the
+ natives as lancets with which to bleed themselves when they suffered
+ from inflammation or headache. Champlain declares that the gar-pike
+ often captures and eats water birds. It would swim in and among rushes
+ or reeds and then raise its snout out of the water and keep perfectly
+ still. Birds would mistake this snout for the stump of a tree and
+ would attempt to alight on it; whereupon the fish would seize them by
+ the legs and pull them down under the water.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-24"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-24"><u>24</u></a> Spelt by Champlain with a "ch" instead of <i>sh</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-25"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-25"><u>25</u></a> Then called the Rivière des Iroquois.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-26"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-26"><u>26</u></a> This was the first intimation probably that any European
+ sent home for publication regarding the existence of the bison in
+ North America, though the Spanish explorers nearly a hundred years
+ before Champlain must have met with it in travelling through
+ Louisiana, Texas, and northern Mexico. The bison is not known ever to
+ have existed near Hudson Bay, or in Canada proper (basin of the St.
+ Lawrence). South of Canada it penetrated to Pennsylvania and the
+ Susquehanna River, but not farther eastward.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-27"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-27"><u>27</u></a> The Amerindians of the Lake regions made much use of the
+ sunflowers of the region (<i>Helianthus multiflorus</i>). Besides this
+ species of sunflower already mentioned, which furnishes tubers from
+ its roots (the "Jerusalem" artichoke) others were valued for their
+ seeds, and some or all of these are probably the originals of the
+ cultivated sunflower in European gardens. The largest of these was
+ called <i>Soleille</i> by the French Canadians. It grew in the cultivated
+ fields of the Amerindians to seven or eight feet in height, with an
+ enormous flower. The seeds were carefully collected and boiled. Their
+ oil was collected then from the water and was used to grease the hair.
+ This same Huron country (the Simcoe country of modern times) was
+ remarkable for its wild fruits. There was the Canada plum (<i>Prunus
+ americana</i>), the wild black cherry (<i>Prunus serotina</i>), the red
+ cherries (<i>P. pennsylvanica</i>), the choke cherry (<i>P. virginiana</i>),
+ wild apples (<i>Pyrus coronaria</i>), wild pears (a small berry-like pear
+ called "poire" by the French: <i>Pyrus canadensis</i>), and the may-apple
+ (<i>Podophyllum peltatum</i>). Champlain describes this may-apple as of the
+ form and colour of a small lemon with a similar taste, but having an
+ interior which is very good and almost like that of figs. The
+ may-apples grow on a plant which is two and a half feet high, with not
+ more than three or four leaves like those of the fig tree, and only
+ two fruits on each plant.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-28"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-28"><u>28</u></a> The cranes of Canada&mdash;so often alluded to by the French
+ explorers as "Grues"&mdash;are of two species, <i>Grus canadensis</i>, with its
+ plumage of a purple-grey, and <i>Grus americanus</i>, which is pure white
+ (see p. <a href="#p139">139</a>).
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-29"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-29"><u>29</u></a> Lakes Ontario and Huron were probably first actually
+ reached by Father Le Caron, a Recollett missionary who came out with
+ Champlain in 1615 (see p. <a href="#p90">90</a>), and by Étienne Brulé, Champlain's
+ interpreter.
+</p>
+<a name="note-4-30"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#4-30"><u>30</u></a> They were almost completely exterminated by the Iroquois
+ confederacy between thirty and forty years after Champlain's visit.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0005"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+<a name="p88"></a>
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER V
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ After Champlain: from Montreal to the Mississippi
+</h3>
+<p>
+ A very remarkable series of further explorations were carried out as
+ the indirect result of Champlain's work. In 1610 he had allowed a
+ French boy of about eighteen years of age, named ÉTIENNE BRULÉ, to
+ volunteer to go away with the Algonkins, in order to learn their
+ language. Brulé was taken in hand by Iroquet,<a name="5-1"></a><a href="#note-5-1"><small>[1]</small></a> a chief of the
+ "Little Algonkins", whose people were then occupying the lands on
+ either side of the Ottawa River, including the site of the now great
+ city of Ottawa. After four years of roaming with the Indians, Brulé
+ was dispatched by Champlain with an escort of twelve Algonkins to the
+ headwaters of the Suskuehanna, far to the south of Lake Ontario, in
+ order to warn the Andastes<a name="5-2"></a><a href="#note-5-2"><small>[2]</small></a> tribe of military operations to be
+ undertaken by the allied French, Hurons, and Algonkins against the
+ Iroquois. This enabled Brulé to explore Lake Ontario and to descend
+ the River Suskuehanna as far south as Chesapeake Bay, a truly
+ extraordinary journey at the period. This region of northern Virginia
+ had just been surveyed by the English, and was soon to be the site of
+ the first English colony in North America.<a name="5-3"></a><a href="#note-5-3"><small>[3]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ In attempting to return to the valley of the St. Lawrence in 1616,
+ with his Andaste guides, Brulé lost his way, and to avoid starvation
+ surrendered himself to the Seneka Indians (the westernmost clan of the
+ Iroquois) against whom the recent warlike operations of the French
+ were being directed. Discovering his nationality, the Senekas decided
+ to torture him before burning him to death at the stake. As they tore
+ off his clothes they found that he was wearing an <i>Agnus Dei</i> medal
+ next his skin. Brulé told them to be careful, as it was a medicine of
+ great power which would certainly kill them. By a coincidence, at that
+ very moment a terrific thunderstorm burst from a sky which until
+ recently had been all sunshine. The Senekas were so scared by the
+ thunder and lightning that they believed Brulé to be a person of
+ supernatural powers. They therefore released him, strove to heal such
+ slight wounds as he had incurred, and carried him off to their
+ principal town, where he became a great favourite. After a while they
+ gave him guides to take him north into the country of the Hurons.
+</p>
+<p>
+ His further adventures led him to discover Lake Superior and the way
+ thither through the Sault Ste. Marie, and to reach a place probably
+ not far from the south coast of Hudson Bay, in which there was a
+ copper mine. Then he explored the Montagnais country north of Quebec,
+ and even at one time (in 1629) entered the service of the English, who
+ had captured Quebec and Tadoussac from the French. When the English
+ left this region Brulé travelled again to the west and joined the
+ Hurons once more.
+</p>
+<p>
+ <a name="p90"></a>His licentious conduct amongst his Indian friends seems to have
+ roused them to such a pitch of anger that in 1632 they murdered him,
+ then boiled and ate his body. But immediately afterwards misfortune
+ seemed to fall on the place. The Hurons were terrified at what they
+ had done, and thought they heard or saw in the sky the spirits of the
+ white relations of Brulé&mdash;some said the sister, some the
+ uncle&mdash;threatening their town (Toanche), which they soon afterwards
+ burnt and deserted.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1615 Champlain, returning from France, had brought out with him
+ friars of the Récollet order.<a name="5-4"></a><a href="#note-5-4"><small>[4]</small></a> These were the pioneer missionaries
+ of Canada, prominent amongst whom was FATHER LE CARON, and these
+ Récollets traversed the countries in the basin of the St. Lawrence
+ between Lake Huron and Cape Breton Island, preaching Christianity to
+ the Amerindians as well as ministering to the French colonists and fur
+ traders. One of these Récollet missionaries died of cold and hunger in
+ attempting to cross New Brunswick from the St. Lawrence to the Bay of
+ Fundy, and another&mdash;Nicholas Viel&mdash;was the first martyr in Canada in
+ the spread of Christianity, for when travelling down the Ottawa River
+ to Montreal he was thrown by the pagan Hurons (together with one of
+ his converts) into the waters of a rapid since christened Sault le
+ Récollet. Another Récollet, Father d'Aillon, prompted by Brulé,
+ explored the richly fertile, beautiful country known then as the
+ territory of the Neutral nation, that group of Huron-Iroquois
+ Amerindians who strove to keep aloof from the fierce struggles between
+ the Algonkins and Hurons on the one hand and the eastern Iroquois
+ clans on the other. This region, which lies between the Lakes
+ Ontario, Erie, and Huron, is the most attractive portion of western
+ Canada. Lying in the southernmost parts of the Dominion, and nearly
+ surrounded by sheets of open water, it has a far milder climate than
+ the rest of eastern Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1626 the Jesuit order supplanted the Récollets, and commenced a
+ campaign both of Christian propaganda and of geographical exploration
+ which has scarcely finished in the Canada of to-day.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1627 the war between the Iroquois Confederacy and the Huron and
+ Algonkin tribes recommenced, and this, together with the British
+ capture of Quebec and other portions of Canada, put a stop for several
+ years to the work of exploration. This was not resumed on an advanced
+ scale till 1634, when Champlain, unable himself, from failing health,
+ to carry out his original commission of seeking a direct passage to
+ China and India across the North-American continent, dispatched a
+ Norman Frenchman named JEAN NICOLLET to find a way to the Western Sea.
+ Nicollet, as a very young man, had lived for years amongst the
+ Amerindian tribes, especially amongst the Nipissings near the lake of
+ that name. Being charged, amongst other things, with the task of
+ making peace between the Hurons and the tribes dwelling to the west of
+ the great lakes, Nicollet discovered Lake Michigan. He was so
+ convinced of the possibility of arriving at the Pacific Ocean, and
+ thence making his way to China, that in the luggage which he carried
+ in his birch-bark canoe was a dress of ceremony made of Chinese damask
+ silk embroidered richly with birds and flowers. He was on his way to
+ discover the Winnebago Indians, or "Men of the Sea", of whom Champlain
+ had heard from the Hurons, with whom they were at war. But the great
+ water from which they derived their name was not in this instance a
+ sea, but the Mississippi River. The Winnebago Indians were totally
+ distinct from the Algonkins or the Iroquois, and belonged to the
+ Dakota stock, from which the great Siou confederation<a name="5-5"></a><a href="#note-5-5"><small>[5]</small></a> was also
+ derived.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nicollet advanced to meet the Winnebagos clad in his Chinese robe and
+ with a pistol in each hand. As he drew near he discharged his pistols,
+ and the women and children fled in terror, for all believed him to be
+ a supernatural being, a spirit wielding thunder and lightning.
+ However, when they recovered from their terror the Winnebagos gave him
+ a hearty welcome, and got up such lavish feasts in his honour, that
+ one chief alone cooked 120 beavers at a single banquet.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nicollet certainly reached the water-parting between the systems
+ of the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, and under that
+ name&mdash;Misi-sipi&mdash;"great water"&mdash;he heard through the Algonkin Indians
+ of a mighty river lying three days' journey westward from his last
+ camp. Winnebago (from which root is also derived the names of the
+ Lakes Winnipeg and Winnipegosis much farther to the north-west) meant
+ "salt" or "foul" water. Both terms might therefore be applied to the
+ sea, and also to the lakes and rivers which, in the minds of the
+ Amerindians, were equally vast in length or breadth.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From 1648 to 1653 the whole of the Canada known to the French settlers
+ and explorers was convulsed by the devastating warfare carried on by
+ the Iroquois, who during that period destroyed the greater part of the
+ Algonkin and Huron clans. The neutral nation of Lake Erie (the Erigas)
+ was scattered, and between the shores of Lakes Michigan and Huron and
+ Montreal the country was practically depopulated, except for the
+ handfuls of French settlers and traders who trembled behind their
+ fortifications. Then, to the relief and astonishment of the French,
+ one of the Iroquois clans&mdash;the Onondaga&mdash;proposed terms of peace,
+ probably because they had no more enemies to fight of their own
+ colour, and wished to trade with the French.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The fur trade of the Quebec province had attracted an increasing
+ number of French people (men bringing their wives) to such settlements
+ as Tadoussac and Three Rivers. Amongst these were the parents of
+ PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON. This young man went hunting near Three Rivers
+ station and was captured in the woods by Mohawks (Iroquois) who
+ carried him off to one of their towns and intended to burn him alive.
+ Having bound him at a stake, they proceeded to tear out some of his
+ finger nails and shoot arrows at the less vital parts of his body. But
+ a Mohawk woman was looking on and was filled with pity at the
+ sufferings of this handsome boy. She announced her intention of
+ adopting him as a member of her family, and by sheer force of will she
+ compelled the men to release him. After staying for some time amongst
+ the Mohawks he escaped, but was again captured just as he was nearing
+ Three Rivers. Once more he was spared from torture at the intercession
+ of his adopted relations. He then made an even bolder bid for freedom,
+ and fled to the south, up the valley of the Richelieu and the Hudson,
+ and thus reached the most advanced inland post of Dutch America&mdash;then
+ called Orange, now Albany&mdash;on the Hudson River. From this point he was
+ conveyed to Holland, and from Holland he returned to Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Soon after his return he joined two Jesuit fathers who were to visit a
+ mission station of the Jesuits amongst the Onondagas (Iroquois) on a
+ lakelet about thirty miles south-east of the present city of
+ Rochester. The Iroquois (whose language Radisson had learnt to speak)
+ received them with apparent friendliness, and there they passed the
+ winter. But in the spring Radisson found out that the Onondaga
+ Iroquois were intending to massacre the whole of the mission.
+ Instructed by him, the Jesuits pretended to have no suspicions of the
+ coming attack, but all the while they were secretly building canoes at
+ their fort. As soon as they were ready for flight, and the sun of
+ April had completely melted the ice in the River Oswego, the French
+ missionaries invited the Onondagas to a great feast, no doubt making
+ out that it was part of the Easter festivities sanctioned by the
+ Church. They pointed out to their guests that from religious motives
+ as well as those of politeness it was essential that the <i>whole</i> of
+ the food provided should be eaten, "nothing was to be left on the
+ plate". They set before their savage guests an enormous banquet of
+ maize puddings, roast pigs, roast ducks, game birds, and fish of many
+ kinds, even terrapins, or freshwater turtles. The Iroquois ate and ate
+ until even <i>their</i> appetites were satisfied. Then they began to cry
+ off; but the missionaries politely insisted, and even told them that
+ in failing to eat they were neglecting their religious duties. To help
+ them in this respect they played hymn and psalm tunes on musical
+ instruments. At last the Onondagas were gorged to repletion, and sank
+ into a stertorous slumber at sunset. Whilst they slept, the Jesuits,
+ their converts, and Radisson got into the already prepared canoes and
+ paddled quickly down the Oswego River far beyond pursuit.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Radisson next joined his brother-in-law, Medard Chouart, and after
+ narrowly escaping massacre by the Iroquois (once more on the warpath
+ along the Ottawa River) reached the northern part of Lake Huron, and
+ Green Bay on the north-west of Lake Michigan. From Green Bay they
+ travelled up the Fox River and across a portage to the Wisconsin,
+ which flows into the Mississippi. Down this river they sped, meeting
+ people of the great Siou confederation and Kri (Cree) Indians, these
+ last an Algonkin nation roaming in the summertime as far north as
+ Hudson's Bay, until at length they reached the actual waters of the
+ Mississippi, first of all white men. Returning then to Lake Michigan,
+ the shores of which seemed to them an earthly paradise with a climate
+ finer than Italy, they journeyed northwards into Lake Huron, and
+ thence north-westwards through the narrow passages of St. Mary's River
+ into Lake Superior. The southern coast of Lake Superior was followed
+ to its westernmost point, where they made a camp, and from which they
+ explored during the winter (in snowshoes) the Wisconsin country and
+ collected information regarding the Mississippi and its great western
+ affluent the Missouri. The Mississippi, they declared, led to Mexico,
+ while the other great forked river in the far west was a pathway,
+ perhaps, to the Southern Sea (Pacific).
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Jesuits, on the other hand, were convinced that Hudson's Bay (or
+ the "Bay of the North") was at no great distance from Lake Superior
+ (which was true) and that it must communicate to the north-west with
+ the Pacific Ocean or the sea that led to China.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1661, without the leave of the French Governor of Canada, who
+ wanted them to take two servants of his own with them and to give him
+ half the profits of the venture, Chouart and Radisson hurried away to
+ the west, picked up large bodies of natives who were returning to the
+ regions north of Lake Huron, with them fought their way through the
+ ambushed Iroquois, and once more navigated the waters of Lake
+ Superior. Once again they started for the Mississippi basin and
+ explored the country of Minnesota, coming thus into contact with
+ native tribes which lived on the flesh of the bison. In Minnesota they
+ met a second time the Kri or Kinistino Indians of north-central
+ Canada, and joined one of their camps in the spring of 1662, somewhere
+ to the west of Lake Superior. With Kri guides they started away to the
+ north and north-east, no doubt by way of the Lake of the Woods, the
+ English River, Lake St. Joseph, and the Albany River, thus reaching
+ the salt sea at James Bay, the southernmost extension of Hudson Bay.
+ Or they may have proceeded by an even shorter route, though with
+ longer portages for canoes, through Lake Nipigon to the Albany.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The summer of 1662 they passed on the islands and shores of James Bay
+ hunting "buffalo"<a name="5-6"></a><a href="#note-5-6"><small>[6]</small></a> with the Indians. Then, in 1663, travelling back
+ along the same route they had followed in the previous year, they
+ regained Lake Superior, and so passed by the north of Lake Huron to
+ the Ottawa River and the St. Lawrence. But on their return to Three
+ Rivers they were arrested by the French Governor, D'Avaugour, who
+ condemned them to imprisonment and severe fines. The courts of France
+ gave them no redress, and in their furious anger Chouart and Radisson
+ went over to the English, offered their services to England, and so
+ brought about the creation of the Hudson Bay Company.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Radisson's journey from England to Hudson Bay has been treated of in
+ an earlier chapter: it is preferable to follow out to its finish the
+ great, western impulse of the French, which led them to neglect for a
+ time the doings of the British on the east coast of North America and
+ in the sub-Arctic regions of Hudson Bay.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From 1660 onwards the Jesuit missionaries again took up vigorously
+ that work of Christianizing the Amerindians which had been so
+ completely checked by the frightful ravages of the Iroquois between
+ 1648 and 1654.
+</p>
+<p>
+ By 1669 the Jesuits had three permanent stations in western Canada.
+ The first was the mission station at Sault Ste. Marie, the second was
+ the station of Ste. Esprit, on Lake Superior (not far from the modern
+ town of Ashland), and the third was the station of St. François Xavier
+ at the mouth of the Fox River, on Green Bay, Lake Michigan.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As regards some of the sufferings which these missionaries had to go
+ through when travelling across Canada in the winter, I quote the
+ following from <i>The Relations of the Jesuits</i> (p. 35):&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I [Father de Crépieul] set out on the 16th of January, 1674, from the
+ vicinity of Lake St. John, near the Saguenay River, with an Algonkin
+ captain and two Frenchmen. We started after Mass, and walked five long
+ leagues on snowshoes with much trouble, because the snow was soft and
+ made our snowshoes very heavy. At the end of five leagues, we found
+ ourselves on a lake four or five leagues long all frozen over, on
+ which the wind caused great quantities of snow to drift, obscuring the
+ air and preventing us from seeing where we are going. After walking
+ another league and a half with great difficulty our strength began to
+ fail. The wind, cold, and snow were so intolerable that they compelled
+ us to retrace our steps a little, to cut some branches of fir which
+ might in default of bark serve to build a cabin. After this we tried
+ to light a fire, but were unable to do so. We were thus reduced to a
+ most pitiful condition. The cold was beginning to seize us to an
+ extraordinary degree, the darkness was great, and the wind blew
+ fearfully. In order to keep ourselves from dying with cold, we resumed
+ our march on the lake in spite of our fatigue, without knowing whither
+ we were going, and all were greatly impeded with the wind and snow.
+ After walking a league and a half we had to succumb in spite of
+ ourselves and stop where we were. The danger we ran of dying from cold
+ caused me to remember the charitable Father de Noue, who in a similar
+ occasion was found dead in the snow, kneeling and with clasped
+ hands.... We therefore remained awake during the rest of the night....
+ On the following morning two Frenchmen arrived from Father Albanel's
+ cabin very opportunely, and kindled a great fire on the snow.... After
+ this we resumed our journey on the same lake, and at last reached the
+ spot where Father Albanel was.... A serious injury, caused by the fall
+ of a heavy load upon his loins, prevented him from moving, and still
+ more, from performing a missionary's duties."
+</p>
+<p>
+ One of the Jesuit fathers, Allouez, in founding the station of St.
+ François Xavier on Green Bay, Lake Michigan, had gained further
+ information about the wonderful Mississippi, which he called "Messi
+ Sipi". He also thoroughly explored Lake Nipigon, to the north of Lake
+ Superior. In 1669 two missionaries, named Dollier de Casson and
+ Galinée, started from the seminary of St. Sulpice (Montreal) to reach
+ the great tribes of the far west, supposed to be eager to learn of
+ Christianity and known to be much more tractable than the Iroquois.
+ These two missionaries, in their expedition of seven canoes and
+ twenty-one Amerindians, were accompanied by a remarkable young man
+ commonly known as La Salle, but whose real name was Robert
+ Cavalier.<a name="5-7"></a><a href="#note-5-7"><small>[7]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ Before leaving Lake Ontario, they actually passed the mouth of the
+ Niagara River and heard the falls, but had not sufficient curiosity to
+ leave their canoes and walk a short distance to see them. The
+ wonderful cascades of Niagara, where the St. Lawrence leaving Lake
+ Erie plunges 328 feet down into Lake Ontario (which is not much above
+ sea level), remained nearly undiscovered and undescribed until the
+ year 1678, when they were visited by Father Hennepin. Near the western
+ end of Lake Ontario the two Sulpician missionaries met another
+ Frenchman, Jolliet, who had come down to Lake Superior by way of the
+ Detroit passage, which is really the portion of the St. Lawrence
+ connecting Lake Huron with Lake Erie. Jolliet told the missionary de
+ Casson of a great tribe in the far west, the Pottawatomies, who had
+ asked for missionaries, and who were of Algonkin stock. La Salle, on
+ the other hand, was determined to make for the rumoured Ohio River,
+ which lay somewhere to the south-west of Lake Erie.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The two Sulpicians wintered in "the earthly paradise" to the north of
+ Lake Erie, passing a delightful six months there in the amazing
+ abundance of game and fish. They then met with various disasters to
+ their canoes, and consequently gave up their western journey, passing
+ northwards through Detroit and Lake St. Clair into Lake Huron, and
+ thence to the Jesuit mission station of the Sault Ste. Marie. Here
+ they were received rather coldly, as being rivals in the mission field
+ and in exploration. They in their turn accused the Jesuits of thinking
+ mainly, if not entirely, of the foundation of French colonies, and
+ very little of evangelizing the natives.
+</p>
+<p>
+ JOLLIET, a Canadian by birth,<a name="5-8"></a><a href="#note-5-8"><small>[8]</small></a> was dispatched by the Viceroy of
+ Canada in 1672 to explore the far west. Two years&mdash;1670&mdash;previously
+ the French Government had for the first time adopted a really definite
+ policy about Canada, and had taken formal possession of the Lake
+ region and of all the territories lying between the lakes and the
+ Mississippi. A great assembly of Indians was held at Sault Ste. Marie,
+ near the east end of Lake Superior; and here a representative of the
+ French Government, accompanied by numerous missionaries and by
+ Jolliet, read a proclamation of the sovereignty of King Louis XIV of
+ France and Navarre. Below a tall cross was erected a great shield
+ bearing the arms of France. Father Allouez addressed the Indians in
+ the Algonkin language, and told them of the all-powerful Louis XIV,
+ who "had ten thousand commanders and captains, each as great as the
+ Governor of Quebec". He reminded them how the troops of this king had
+ beaten the unconquerable Iroquois, of how he possessed innumerable
+ soldiers and uncountable ships; that at times the ground of France
+ shook with the discharge of cannon, while the blaze of musketry was
+ like the lightning. He pictured the king covered with the blood of his
+ enemies and riding in the middle of his cavalry, and ordering so many
+ of his enemies to be slain that no account could be kept of the number
+ of their scalps, whilst their blood flowed in rivers. The Amerindians
+ being what they were, addicted to warfare, and only recognizing the
+ right of the strongest, it may be that this gospel of force was not
+ quite so shocking and unchristian as it reads to us nearly 250 years
+ afterwards, though it jars very much as coming from the lips of a
+ missionary of Christianity. However, it must be remembered that but
+ for the valour of the French soldiers in the awful period between 1648
+ and 1666 (when the Mohawks received a thorough and well-deserved
+ thrashing) many of the tribes addressed on this occasion by the Jesuit
+ missionaries would have been completely exterminated; the Iroquois
+ would have depopulated much of north-eastern America. It is obvious,
+ indeed, from our study of the conditions of life amongst the
+ Amerindians, that one reason why the New World was so poorly populated
+ at the time of its discovery by Europeans was the wars of
+ extermination between tribe and tribe; for America between the Arctic
+ regions and Tierra del Fuego is marvellously well supplied with
+ natural food products&mdash;game, fish, fruits, nuts, roots, and
+ grain&mdash;much more so than any area of similar extent in the Old World.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Jolliet was to be accompanied on his westward expedition by Father
+ JACQUES MARQUETTE,<a name="5-9"></a><a href="#note-5-9"><small>[9]</small></a> a Jesuit missionary who had become well
+ acquainted with the tribes visiting Lake Superior, and had learnt the
+ Siou dialect of the Illinois people. On May 17, 1673, Jolliet and
+ Marquette started from the Straits of Michili-Makinak with only two
+ bark canoes and five Amerindians. They coasted along the north coast
+ of Lake Michigan, passed into Green Bay, and thence up the River Fox.
+ They were assisted by the Maskutins, or Fire Indians, and were given
+ Miami guides. Thence the natives assisted them to transport their
+ canoes and baggage over the very short distance that separates the
+ upper waters of the Fox River from the Wisconsin River, and down the
+ Wisconsin they glided till they reached the great Mississippi. The
+ Governor of Quebec, who had sent Jolliet on this mission, believed
+ that the Great River of the west would lead them to the Gulf of
+ California, which was then called the Vermilion Sea by the Spaniards,
+ because it resembled in shape and colour the Red Sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "On the 17th of June (1673)", writes Father Marquette, "we safely
+ entered the Mississippi with a joy that I cannot express. Its current
+ is slow and gentle, the width very unequal. On its banks there are
+ hardly any woods or mountains. The islands are most beautiful, and
+ they are covered with fine trees. We saw deer and cattle (bison),
+ geese, and swans. From time to time we came upon monstrous fish, one
+ of which struck our canoe with such violence that I thought it was a
+ great tree. On another occasion we saw on the water a monster with the
+ head of a tiger, a sharp nose like that of a wild cat, with whiskers
+ and straight erect ears. The head was grey, and the neck quite black
+ (possibly a lynx).... We found that turkeys had taken the place of
+ game, and the <i>pisikiou</i>, or wild cattle, that of the other animals."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Father Marquette, of course, by his wild cattle means the bison, of
+ which he proceeds to give an excellent description. He adds: "They are
+ very fierce, and not a year passes without their killing some savages.
+ When attacked, they catch a man on their horns if they can, toss him
+ in the air, throw him on the ground, then trample him under foot and
+ kill him. If a person fires at them from a distance with either a bow
+ or a gun, he must immediately after the shot throw himself down and
+ hide in the grass, for if they perceive him who has fired they run at
+ him and attack him."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Soon after entering the Mississippi, Marquette noticed some rocks
+ which by their height and length inspired awe. "We saw upon one of
+ them two painted monsters which at first made us afraid, and upon
+ which the boldest savages dare not long rest their eyes. They are as
+ large as a calf; they have horns on their heads like those of deer, a
+ horrible look, red eyes, a beard like a tiger's, a face somewhat like
+ a man's, a body covered with scales, and so long a tail that it winds
+ all round the body and ends like that of a fish. Green, red, and black
+ are the three colours composing the picture. Moreover, these two
+ monsters are so well painted that we cannot believe that any savage is
+ their author, for good painters in France would find it difficult to
+ paint so well, and, besides, they are so high up on the rock that it
+ is difficult to reach that place conveniently to paint them."<a name="5-10"></a><a href="#note-5-10"><small>[10]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ As the Jolliet expedition paddled down the Mississippi&mdash;ever so easily
+ and swiftly&mdash;a marvellous panorama unfolded itself before the
+ Frenchmen's fascinated gaze. Immense herds of bison occasionally
+ appeared on the river banks, flocks of turkeys flew up from the glades
+ and roosted in the trees and on the river bank. Everywhere the natives
+ seemed friendly, and Father Marquette was usually able to communicate
+ with them through his knowledge of the Illinois Algonkin dialect,
+ which the Siou understood.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0005"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc05.jpg" width="450" height="284"
+alt="Indians Hunting Bison">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>INDIANS HUNTING BISON</h5>
+<p>
+ On their first meeting with the Mississippi Indians, the French
+ explorers were not only offered the natives' pipes to smoke in token
+ of peace, but an old man amongst the latter uttered these words to
+ Jolliet: "How beautiful the sun is, O Frenchman, when thou comest to
+ visit us. Our village awaits thee, and thou shalt enter all our cabins
+ in peace."... "There was a crowd of people," writes Marquette; "they
+ devoured us with their eyes, but nevertheless preserved profound
+ silence. We could, however, hear these words addressed to us from time
+ to time in a low voice: 'How good it is, my brothers, that you should
+ visit us'.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "... The council was followed by a great feast, consisting of four
+ dishes, which had to be partaken of in accordance with all their
+ fashions. The first course was a great wooden platter full of
+ sagamité, that is to say, meal of Indian corn boiled in water, and
+ seasoned with fat. The Master of the Ceremonies filled a spoon with
+ sagamité three or four times, and put it to my mouth as if I were a
+ little child. He did the same to Monsieur Jollyet. As a second course
+ he caused a second platter to be brought, on which were three fish. He
+ took some pieces of them, removed the bones therefrom, and, after
+ blowing upon them to cool them, he put them in our mouths as one would
+ give food to a bird. For the third course, they brought a large dog
+ that had just been killed, but, when they learned that we did not eat
+ this meat, they removed it from before us. Finally, the fourth course
+ was a piece of wild ox, the fattest morsels of which were placed in
+ our mouths.... We thus pushed forward and no longer saw so many
+ prairies, because both shores of the river are bordered with lofty
+ trees. The cotton wood, elm and bass wood are admirable for their
+ height and thickness. There are great numbers of wild cattle whom we
+ hear bellowing. We killed a little parroquet, with a red and yellow
+ head and green body.... We have got down to near the 33° of
+ latitude.... We heard from afar savages who were inciting one another
+ to attack us by their continual yelling. They were armed with bows and
+ arrows, hatchets, clubs, and shields.... Part of them embarked in
+ great wooden canoes, some to ascend, others to descend the river in
+ order to surround us on all sides.... Some young men threw themselves
+ into the water and seized my canoe, but the current compelled them to
+ return to land. One of them hurled his club, which passed over without
+ striking us. In vain I showed the calumet (pipe of peace), and made
+ them signs that we were not coming to war against them. The alarm
+ continued; they were already preparing to pierce us with arrows from
+ all sides when God suddenly touched the hearts of the old men who were
+ standing at the water's edge, who checked the ardour of their young
+ men.... Whereon we landed, not without fear on our part. First we had
+ to speak by signs, because none of them understood the six languages
+ which I spoke. At last we found an old man who could speak a little
+ Illinois. We informed them that we were going to the sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The next day was spent in feasting on Indian corn and dogs' flesh.
+ The people here had an abundance of Indian corn, which they sowed at
+ all seasons. They cook it in great earthen jars which are very well
+ made, and also have plates of baked earth. The men go naked and wear
+ their hair short; they pierce their noses, from which, as well as from
+ their ears, hang beads.... Their cabins are made of bark, and are long
+ and wide. They sleep at the two ends, which are raised two feet above
+ the ground. They know nothing of the beaver, and their wealth consists
+ in the skins of wild cattle. They never see snow in their country, and
+ recognize the winter only through the rains."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The expedition had passed the confluence of the Missouri and that of
+ the Ohio, and had finally reached the place where the Arkansas River
+ enters the Mississippi. Here the Frenchmen gathered from the natives
+ that the sea was only ten days distant, and this sea they knew (for
+ Jolliet was able to take astronomical observations and to make a rough
+ survey) could only be the Gulf of Mexico. Jolliet feared if he
+ prosecuted his journey any farther, he and his people would fall into
+ the hands of the Spaniards and be imprisoned, if not killed.
+ Therefore, at this point on the Lower Mississippi, the expedition
+ turned back. Its return journey was a weary business, for the current
+ was against the canoes as they were propelled northwards up the Great
+ River. But Jolliet learnt from the natives of a better homeward route,
+ that of following the Illinois River upstream until the expedition
+ came within a very short distance of Lake Michigan, near where Chicago
+ now stands. The canoes were carried over a low ridge of ground,
+ launched again in the Chicago River, and so passed into Lake Michigan.
+ (There is, in fact, at this point the remains of an ancient water
+ connection between Lake Michigan and the Illinois River, and a canal
+ now connects the two systems.) Jolliet, in describing this region,
+ realized that by cutting a canal through two miles of prairie it would
+ be possible to go "in a small ship" from Lake Erie or Lake Superior
+ "to Florida".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Father Marquette remained at his new mission on the Fox River (he died
+ two years afterwards on the shores of the Straits of Michili-makinak).
+ Jolliet, on returning by way of the Ottawa River to Quebec, was nearly
+ drowned in the La Chine Rapids (Montreal), and all his papers and maps
+ were lost. The natives with him also perished, but he struggled to
+ shore with difficulty, and went on his way to Quebec to report his
+ wonderful discoveries to the Governor, Frontenac. Fortunately Father
+ Marquette had also kept a journal and had made maps, and these
+ reaching the superior of his mission arrived in time to confirm
+ Jolliet's statements.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Jolliet married at Quebec, and proceeded to explore and develop the
+ regions along the north coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, travelling
+ in this work as far as Hudson's Bay. He was given by the French
+ Government the Island of Anticosti as a reward for his achievements,
+ but the work and capital which he put into the development of this
+ long-neglected island came to nothing; for it was captured by the
+ English, and Jolliet died a poor man whilst attempting to explore the
+ coast of Labrador.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As to ROBERT CAVALIER DE LA SALLE, he had, after all, discovered the
+ Ohio, and had descended that river as far as the site of the present
+ town of Louisville. Then he interested the Governor (Frontenac) of
+ Canada in his enterprises. A fort, called Fort Frontenac, was built at
+ what is now Kingston, at the point where the St. Lawrence leaves Lake
+ Ontario. La Salle returned to France, and obtained the grant of the
+ lordship of this fort and the surrounding country on conditions of
+ maintaining the whole cost of the establishment, and making a
+ settlement of colonists. Another visit to France in 1677-8 secured him
+ further support and capital, and he returned from France with a
+ companion, Henry de Tonty.
+</p>
+<p>
+ La Salle, with de Tonty, started from Fort Frontenac in September,
+ 1678, so intensely anxious to commence his discoveries that he
+ disregarded the difficulties of the winter season. On his way to
+ Niagara he paid a visit to the Iroquois to conciliate them, and
+ cleverly got from them permission to build a vessel on Lake Erie and
+ also to erect a blacksmith's forge, near where Niagara now stands. The
+ blacksmith's forge grew rapidly into a fort before the Indians were
+ aware of what was being done. By August, 1679, he had built and
+ launched (in spite of extraordinary calamities and misfortunes) on the
+ Upper Niagara River the first sailing boat which ever appeared on the
+ four great upper lakes of the St. Lawrence basin.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In this ship he sailed through Lake Erie and past Detroit into Lake
+ Huron, and thence to Green Bay (Lake Michigan), stopping at intervals
+ amongst the canoes of the amazed natives, who for the first time heard
+ the sound of cannon, for he had armed his vessel with guns. At Green
+ Bay he collected a large quantity of furs, which had been obtained in
+ trade by the men he had sent on in advance. He loaded up his sailing
+ boat, the <i>Griffon</i>, and sent her on a voyage back to the east to
+ transport this splendid load of furs to the merchants with whom he had
+ become deeply indebted. Unhappily the <i>Griffon</i> foundered in a storm
+ on Lake Michigan, and was never heard of again. Meantime La Salle,
+ with de Tonty and Father HENNEPIN, the discoverer of Niagara, had
+ travelled in canoes to the south-east end of Lake Michigan, had passed
+ up the Joseph River, and thence by portage into the Kankaki, which
+ flows into the Illinois. This river he descended till he stopped near
+ the site of the modern Peoria. Below this place he built a fort&mdash;for
+ it was winter time&mdash;and although the natives were not very friendly he
+ collected enough information from them to satisfy himself that he
+ could easily pass down the Illinois to the Mississippi.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He sent one of the Frenchmen, Michel Accault, together with Father
+ Hennepin, to explore the Illinois down to the Mississippi; de Tonty he
+ placed in charge of the fort with a small garrison; and then himself,
+ on the last day of February, 1680, started to walk overland from Lake
+ Michigan to Detroit. Eventually, by means of a canoe, which he
+ constructed himself, he regained Fort Frontenac and Montreal. When he
+ returned to Fort Crèvecoeur, on the Illinois River,<a name="5-11"></a><a href="#note-5-11"><small>[11]</small></a> it was to meet
+ with the signs of a horrible disaster. The Iroquois in his absence had
+ descended on the place with a great war party. They had massacred the
+ Illinois people dwelling in a big settlement near the fort, and the
+ remains of their mutilated bodies were scattered all over the place.
+ Their town had been burnt; the fort was empty and abandoned. There
+ were no traces of the Frenchmen, however, amongst the skulls and
+ skeletons lying around him; for the skulls retained sufficient hair to
+ show that they belonged to Amerindians. Nevertheless, he deposited his
+ new stock of goods and most of his men in the ruins of the Fort
+ Crèvecoeur, and descended the River Illinois to the Mississippi. But
+ he was obliged to turn back. On the west bank of the river were the
+ scared Illinois Indians, on the east the raging Iroquois. Whenever La
+ Salle could safely visit a deserted camp he would examine the remains
+ of the tortured men tied to stakes to see if amongst them there was a
+ Frenchman.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But de Tonty was not dead. After incredible adventures he had escaped
+ the raids of the Iroquois and had reached the Straits of
+ Michili-makinak, between Lakes Michigan and Huron, and there met La
+ Salle, who was once more on his way to Montreal.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Again de La Salle and de Tonty, in the winter of 1681, returned to the
+ south end of Lake Michigan, and made their way over the snow to the
+ Illinois River. On the 6th February, 1682, they left the junction of
+ the Illinois and the Mississippi to trace that great river to its
+ outlet in the sea. La Salle reached the delta on the 6th April, 1682,
+ having on the way taken possession of the country in the name of the
+ King of France. Accault and Father Hennepin had meantime paddled up
+ the Northern Mississippi as far as its junction with the Wisconsin. At
+ this place their party was surrounded and captured by a large band of
+ Siou warriors.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Frenchmen were at first in danger of being killed, as the Sious
+ refused to smoke with them the pipe of peace. But being much less
+ bloodthirsty than the Iroquois, they soon calmed down and treated
+ their captives with a certain rough friendliness. All their goods were
+ taken from them, even the vestments worn by Father Hennepin. But they
+ were well supplied with food such as the country produced&mdash;bison,
+ beef, fish, wild turkeys, and the grain of the wild rice, which made
+ such excellent flour. They were gradually conveyed by the Siou<a name="5-12"></a><a href="#note-5-12"><small>[12]</small></a> to
+ a large settlement of that tribe on the shore of Mille Lacs, a sheet
+ of water not far distant from the westernmost extremity of Lake
+ Superior. Whilst staying at this Siou town Hennepin conversed with
+ Indians from the far north and north-west, and from what they told him
+ came to the conclusion that there was no continuous waterway or
+ "Strait of Anian" across the North-American continent, but that
+ the land extended to the north-west till it finally joined the
+ north-eastern part of Asia&mdash;a guess that was not very far wrong. But
+ he also surmised that there were rivers in the far west which led to
+ an ocean&mdash;the Pacific&mdash;across which ships might go to Japan and China
+ without passing to the southward of the Equator.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Whilst moving up and down the northern Mississippi, bison-hunting with
+ the Indians, the Frenchmen were met near the site of St. Paul by one
+ of the great French pioneers of the seventeenth century, the Sieur
+ DANIEL DE GREYSOLON DU L'HUT. This remarkable man, who was an officer
+ of the French army, had already planted the French arms at the
+ Amerindian settlement of Mille Lacs in 1679, and had established
+ himself as a powerful authority at the west end of Lake Superior. He
+ had also summoned a great council of Amerindian tribes&mdash;the Siou from
+ the Upper Mississippi, the Assiniboins from the Lake of the Woods
+ (between Lake Superior and Lake Winnipeg), and the Kri Indians from
+ Lake Nipigon. He had further discovered, in 1679, the water route of
+ the St. Croix River from near Lake Superior to the Mississippi.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Du L'Hut soon persuaded the Siou to let his fellow countrymen return
+ with him to Lake Superior. Accault remained behind with the Siou,
+ delighted with their wild, roving life, and no doubt married an Indian
+ wife and became the father of some of those bold half-breeds who
+ played such a great part in the subsequent history of innermost
+ Canada. But Father Hennepin returned to Montreal, and made his way
+ eventually to France, where he fell into great disgrace and was
+ unfrocked. He had richly merited this treatment, for after he heard of
+ the death of La Salle he impudently claimed the discovery of the whole
+ course of the Mississippi River for himself, and for a long time was
+ believed. He will certainly go down in history as the man who
+ discovered and described Niagara Falls (in 1678), and he also assisted
+ greatly to clear up the geography of the time by the information he
+ collected from the Amerindians as to the vast extent of the
+ North-American continent; but he was a boastful, unscrupulous man.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Du L'Hut, who came to the rescue of Accault and Hennepin, was of noble
+ family, and a member of the king's bodyguard. He decided, however, to
+ seek his fortune in Canada, and obtained a commission as captain. It
+ was his cousin, Henri de Tonty, who had accompanied La Salle. After
+ returning to France to fight in the wars then going on, he came back
+ to Canada with a younger brother, Claude. He had in him the spirit of
+ great adventurers, and longed to visit the unknown countries of the
+ upper Mississippi. In the early part of these journeys he rescued his
+ fellow countrymen from the keeping of the Sious in the manner
+ described. After that he spent <i>thirty</i> years travelling and trading
+ about North America, from the northern Mississippi into what we
+ should now call Manitoba, and from the vicinity of Lake Winnipeg to
+ Hudson Bay. He brought the great Amerindian nation of the Dakotas into
+ direct relations with the French. He was absolutely fearless, and in
+ no period of Canadian history has France been more splendidly
+ represented in the personality of any of her officers than she was by
+ Daniel de Greysolon du L'Hut. His was a tiresome name for English
+ scribes and speakers. It was therefore written by them "Duluth" and
+ pronounced D&#259;l&#259;th (instead of "Dülüt"). It is the name given to
+ the township near the southernmost extremity of Lake Superior.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When the journeys of du L'Hut came to an end&mdash;he died at Montreal in
+ 1710&mdash;and after the era of great French explorations in North America
+ drew to a close, the French power was beginning to be eclipsed by that
+ of the British, who were building up the foundations of a colony on
+ the shores of Hudson's Bay, and were taking steps to acquire
+ Newfoundland and to colonize New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nevertheless, in 1720, the King of France, or rather the regent acting
+ for the king, decided that a serious attempt must be made to discover
+ the Western Sea, or Pacific Ocean, from the French posts which had
+ been established in what is now known as Manitoba. The French had
+ already discovered the Missouri, and had heard from several Indian
+ tribes that it was possible to cross the Rocky Mountains and descend
+ by other rivers to the waters of a great ocean, the coasts of which
+ were visited by Spaniards. Several expeditions were sent out, more or
+ less under the control of Jesuits, but did not accomplish much.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The really great discoveries which link the "Great North-West" for all
+ time in history with France and French names were initiated by PIERRE
+ GAULTIER DE LA VÉRENDRYE, who was born in 1685 at the town of Three
+ Rivers, in Lower Canada, where his father was Governor. He entered
+ the army at the age of twelve, and took part in the French campaigns
+ in Flanders, winning the rank of lieutenant at the battle of
+ Malplaquet, where he received nine wounds and was left for dead on the
+ field. He then returned to Canada, not having the necessary means with
+ which to support the position of a lieutenant; and then, as France
+ seemed to have entered upon a period of protracted peace, he
+ determined to become an explorer. In 1728, when he was commandant of
+ the trading post of Nipigon, to the north of Lake Superior, he heard
+ from an Indian that there was a great lake beyond Lake Superior, out
+ of which flowed a river towards the west, which ultimately led to a
+ great salt lake where the water ebbed and flowed. As a matter of fact,
+ these stories simply referred to Lake Winnipeg, but the importance of
+ them lay in the fact that they acted as a powerful incentive to La
+ Vérendrye to push his explorations westwards, and perhaps discover a
+ route to the Pacific Ocean.<a name="5-13"></a><a href="#note-5-13"><small>[13]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ La Vérendrye afterwards went to Quebec, where he discussed his plans
+ for Western exploration with the Governor of New France, the Marquis
+ de Beauharnais, who was a distant connection of the Beauharnais family
+ from which sprang the first husband of the Empress Joséphine, the
+ grandfather of Napoleon III.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This Governor entered into his scheme with enthusiasm, though he could
+ obtain little or no money from the ministers of Louis XVI. But a way
+ out of the difficulty was found by the Governor giving La Vérendrye
+ the monopoly of the fur trade in the far North-West.<a name="5-14"></a><a href="#note-5-14"><small>[14]</small></a> This
+ monopoly enabled La Vérendrye to obtain the funds for his expenditure
+ from the merchants of Montreal, and in the summer of 1731 he started
+ out on his explorations, accompanied by three of his sons, his nephew,
+ fifty soldiers and French Canadian canoe men, and a Jesuit missionary.
+ For a guide they had the Indian, Oshagash, who had first told La
+ Vérendrye of the western river and the salt water. After many delays,
+ necessitated by the need for trading in furs to satisfy the merchants
+ of Montreal, La Vérendrye and his expedition skated on snowshoes down
+ the ice of the Winnipeg River and reached the shores of Lake Winnipeg.
+ They were probably the first white men to arrive there. La Vérendrye
+ established forts and posts along his route from Lake Nipigon, but his
+ expedition had not been a commercial success. There was a deficit of
+ £1700 between the amount realized in furs and the cost of the
+ equipment and wages of the French and French Canadians. De Beauharnais
+ made a fresh appeal to the French Court; he urged that the expenditure
+ to convey La Vérendrye's expedition to the Pacific Ocean would not be
+ a large one&mdash;perhaps only £1500.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the French Court was obdurate; it would not furnish a penny. Thus
+ La Vérendrye, in all probability, was prevented from forestalling the
+ British explorers of sixty and seventy years later, besides the
+ expeditions of Captain Cook and Captain Vancouver, which secured for
+ Great Britain a foothold on the Pacific seaboard of British Columbia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ La Vérendrye in his fort on Lake Winnipeg was in a desperate position.
+ He made a hasty journey back to Montreal and even Quebec, to beat up
+ funds and to pacify the capitalists of his fur-trading monopoly. He
+ painted in glowing colours the prospects of cutting off the trade of
+ the Hudson's Bay Company and the building up of an immense commerce in
+ valuable furs, and these men agreed once again to furnish the funds
+ for the extension of the expedition. On his return he took back with
+ him his youngest son, Louis, a boy of eighteen. Whilst he had been
+ absent from Fort St. Charles (a post which he had built on the Lake of
+ the Woods, in communication by water with the Winnipeg River), on Lake
+ Winnipeg, that place was visited by a party of Siou Indians. They
+ found the fort occupied in the absence of the French by a number of
+ Kri or "Knistino" Indians in French service. These Kris were
+ frightened at the arrival of the Sious and fired guns at them. "Who
+ fired on us?" demanded these haughty Indians from Dakota, and the Kris
+ replied, "The French". Then the Sious withdrew, but vowed to be
+ completely revenged on the treacherous white man.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When La Vérendrye reached Fort St. Charles its little garrison was
+ almost at the point of starvation. He had travelled himself ahead of
+ his party, and the immense stock of supplies and provisions he was
+ bringing up country were a long way behind him when he reached the
+ fort. He therefore sent back his son Jean, together with the most
+ active of his Canadian voyageurs and the Jesuit missionary, in order
+ that they might meet the heavily laden canoes and hurry them up
+ country as fast as possible. But this party was met by the Sious on
+ Rainy River, who massacred them to a man. They were afterwards found
+ lying in a circle on the beach, decapitated and mutilated. The heads
+ of most of them were wrapped ironically in beaver skins, and La
+ Vérendrye's son, Jean, was horribly cut and slashed, and his
+ mutilated, naked body decorated with garters and bracelets of
+ porcupine quills.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Meantime, during his absence in Lower Canada, two of his sons in
+ charge of Fort Maurepas, on Lake Winnipeg, had been very active. They
+ had discovered the great size of this lake, and also the entrance of
+ the Red River on the south. They then proceeded to explore both the
+ Red River and its western tributary the Assiniboin. On the Assiniboin
+ was afterwards built the post of Fort La Reine, and from this place in
+ 1738 La Vérendrye started with two of his sons, several other
+ Frenchmen, a few Canadian voyageurs, and twenty-five Assiniboin
+ Indians. Leaving the Assiniboin River, they crossed the North Dakota
+ prairies on foot. Owing to the timidity of his Indian guides, La
+ Vérendrye was not led direct to the Missouri River, the "Great River
+ of the West", but along a zigzag route which permitted his guides to
+ reinforce their numbers at Assiniboin villages, and every now and then
+ join in a bison hunt. All the party were on foot, horses not then
+ having reached the Assiniboin tribe. But on the 28th of November,
+ 1738, they drew near to the Missouri and were met by a chief of the
+ great Mandan tribe, who was accompanied by thirty of his warriors, and
+ who presented La Vérendrye with young maize cobs and leaves of native
+ tobacco, these being regarded as emblems of peace and friendship.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Mandan tribe differed materially in its habits and customs from
+ the Indians to the north, who supported themselves mainly, if not
+ entirely, by hunting, who cared very little for agriculture, and moved
+ continually like nomads over great stretches of country, living
+ chiefly in tents or temporary villages. The Mandans, on the other
+ hand, were a people who practised agriculture, and had permanent and
+ well-constructed towns. In fact, their civilization and demeanour made
+ such an impression on the Assiniboin and other northern tribes that
+ they had been considered a sort of "white people", somewhat akin to
+ Europeans, and La Vérendrye was a little disappointed to find them
+ only Amerindians in race and colour.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The six hundred Assiniboins who had gathered about La Vérendrye's
+ expedition proved to be a great trouble to him, as they were
+ constantly picking quarrels with the Mandans, who were very dishonest.
+ Accordingly, La Vérendrye arranged with the Mandans to frighten them
+ away by pretending that the Siou Indians were on the warpath. The six
+ hundred Assiniboins bolted, but took with them La Vérendrye's
+ interpreter, so that he was henceforth obliged to communicate with the
+ Mandans by means of signs and gestures. This and other reasons decided
+ him to return&mdash;even though it was the depth of winter, to Fort La
+ Reine, but not before he had given the head chief of the Mandans a
+ flag and a leaden plate which (unknown to the Mandans) meant taking
+ possession of their country in the name of the French king.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The journey back to Fort La Reine, over the plains of the Assiniboin,
+ was a terrible experience. The party had to travel in the teeth of an
+ almost unceasing north-east wind which was freezingly cold. Night
+ after night they were obliged to dig deep holes in the snow for their
+ sleeping places. La Vérendrye nearly died of agonizing pain and
+ fatigue during this journey, and was a long time recovering from its
+ effects.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they continued to receive friendly messages from the Mandans,
+ inviting them to make further discoveries, LA VÉRENDRYE'S sons, PIERRE
+ and FRANCOIS, set out in the spring of 1742, and, after some checks
+ and disappointments, managed with a single Mandan guide to reach Broad
+ Lands on the Little Missouri River, where they noticed the earths of
+ different colours, blue, green, red, black, white, and yellow, which
+ are so characteristic of this region. They reached the village of the
+ Crow Indians, passed through a portion of the friendly tribe, the
+ Cheyennes (the name was probably pronounced Shian) and got into the
+ country which was constantly being ravaged by the Snake Indians, or
+ Shoshones. Here, on the 1st of January, 1743, when the mists of
+ morning cleared away, they saw upon the horizon the outline of huge
+ mountains. As they travelled westwards or south-westwards, day after
+ day, the jagged blue wall resolved itself into towering snow-capped
+ peaks, glittering in the sun and provoking the appellation of "the
+ Mountains of Bright Stones", a name probably given to the Rocky
+ Mountains by the Amerindians, but used in all the earlier French and
+ English maps until the end of the eighteenth century.<a name="5-15"></a><a href="#note-5-15"><small>[15]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 12th of January they reached the very foot of the mountains,
+ the slopes of which they saw were thickly covered with magnificent
+ forests of pine and fir&mdash;forests, that have since suffered to an
+ appalling extent from annual bush fires, which so far the United
+ States Government seems unable to check. Here they were to meet with a
+ bitter disappointment. They were travelling with a very large war
+ party of the Bow Indians for the purpose, if need be, of attacking and
+ routing the Shoshones; but a Shoshone camp at the base of the
+ mountains was found to be deserted, and the Bow Indians jumped to the
+ conclusion that the Shoshones had turned back through the forest
+ unseen, and were now making with all speed for the principal war camp
+ of the Bow Indians, where they would massacre the women and children.
+ They would listen to no remonstrances from the two Frenchmen, who
+ perforce had also to travel back, either alone or with the Bow
+ Indians, in the direction of their war camp, where the idea of a
+ Shoshone attack was found to be baseless. Eventually, the two La
+ Vérendrye brothers were obliged to make their way to the Missouri
+ River, and abandon any idea of finding a way to the Western Ocean
+ across the Rocky Mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The French pioneers had already heard of the Spaniards in California,
+ and the possibility of getting into touch with them. They had now
+ discovered, first of all Europeans, the Rocky Mountains&mdash;that great
+ snowy range of North America which extends from Robson Peak on the
+ eastern borders of British Columbia to Baldy Peak in New Mexico.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Afterwards the La Vérendryes directed their attention more to the
+ opportunities of reaching the Far West through the streams that flowed
+ into the system of Lake Winnipeg, and in this way discovered, in or
+ about 1743, the great River Saskatchewan. This river La Vérendrye's
+ sons followed up till they reached the junction between the North and
+ the South Rivers, and then they probably learnt a good deal more of
+ the Southern Saskatchewan, on which they may have built one or two
+ posts. La Vérendrye himself thought that this would prove to be the
+ best route by which the French could reach the Western Sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ By this time the French Government was becoming alive to the
+ importance of these discoveries, and it conferred a decoration on La
+ Vérendrye, and allowed him to hope that he might be furnished with
+ means for further exploration. But he died soon afterwards, at the
+ close of 1749, and after his death his sons were treated with gross
+ ingratitude and neglect. The self-seeking Governor of New France
+ endeavoured to secure the fur trade for his own friends, and sent an
+ officer with a terribly long name&mdash;Captain Jacques Répentigny Le
+ Gardeur de Saint Pierre&mdash;to continue the exploration towards the
+ Pacific. From 1750 to 1763 the French occupation of this region of the
+ two Saskatchewan Rivers was extended till in all probability the
+ French got within sight of the northern Rocky Mountains in the
+ vicinity of Calgary. Then came the English conquest of Canada to stop
+ all further enterprise in this direction, and the story was next to be
+ taken up by English, Scottish, and Canadian explorers.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It will be men with English and Scottish names, mainly, who will
+ henceforth complete the work begun and established so magnificently by
+ Cartier, Brulé, Nicollet, Jolliet, La Salle, du L'Hut, and La
+ Vérendrye, though the French Canadians will also play a notable part,
+ together with "Americans", from New England.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-5-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-1"><u>1</u></a> Mentioned on p. <a href="#p80">80</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-2"><u>2</u></a> The Andastes were akin to the Iroquois, but did not
+ belong to their confederacy; they lived in Pennsylvania.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-3"><u>3</u></a> The inaccurate statement has frequently been written
+ about Newfoundland being "the first British American colony".
+ Newfoundland was reached by the ship in which John Cabot sailed on his
+ 1497 voyage of discovery, and a few years afterwards its shores were
+ sought by the English in common with the French and the Portuguese,
+ and later on the Spaniards and Basques, for the cod fishery. But no
+ definite British settlement, such as subsequently grew into an actual
+ colony, was founded in Newfoundland until the year 1624; the island
+ was not recognized as definitely British till 1713, and no governor
+ was appointed till 1728. The first permanent English colonial
+ settlement in America was founded at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607; and
+ in the Bermudas and Barbados (West Indies) soon afterwards.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-4"><u>4</u></a> The Récollet (properly Recollect) friars were a strict
+ branch of the Franciscan order that were sometimes called the
+ Observantines. They were also known as "Recollects" (pronounced in
+ French <i>récollet</i>) because they were required to be constantly keeping
+ guard over their thoughts. This development of the Franciscan order of
+ preaching missionary friars was originally a Spanish one, founded
+ early in the sixteenth century, and becoming well established in the
+ Spanish Netherlands. Many of them were Flemings or Walloons.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-5"><u>5</u></a> See p. <a href="#p160">160</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-6"><u>6</u></a> More probably musk oxen.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-7"><u>7</u></a> La Salle was the name of his property in France.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-8"><u>8</u></a> Born at Quebec in 1645.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-9"><u>9</u></a> Father Jacques Marquette was born in the province of
+ Champagne, eastern France. He came to Canada when he was twenty-nine
+ years old, having already been prepared by the Jesuits for priesthood
+ and missionary work since his seventeenth year. He spent nine years in
+ Canada, and died at the age of thirty-eight. He has left an enduring
+ memory for goodness, courage, and purity of life.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-10"><u>10</u></a> These remarkable rock pictures were situated immediately
+ above the present city of Alton, Illinois. In 1812 they still remained
+ in a good state of preservation, but the thoughtless Americans had
+ gradually destroyed them by 1867 in quarrying the rock for building
+ stone.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-11"><u>11</u></a> He had named this place "Heartbreak" because when
+ building it he had learnt of the loss of his sailing ship <i>Griffon</i>,
+ with the splendid supply of furs which was to have paid off his debts,
+ with all his reserve supplies and his men. This was not the limit of
+ his troubles; for, after the overland journey of appalling hardships
+ through a country of melting ice, flood, swamp, and hostile
+ Iroquois&mdash;the Iroquois being furious with La Salle for having
+ outwitted them in the building of this fort, and seeking him
+ everywhere to destroy him&mdash;when he got to Montreal it was only to
+ learn that a ship, coming from France with further supplies for his
+ great journey had been wrecked at the mouth of the St. Lawrence!
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-12"><u>12</u></a> The real name of the Siou, as far as we can arrive at it
+ through the records of the French pioneers, was Issati or Naduessiu.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-13"><u>13</u></a> The water of Lake Winnipeg&mdash;whatever it may be now&mdash;was
+ frequently stated by Amerindians in earlier days to be "stinking
+ water", or salt, brackish water, disagreeable to drink, and this lake
+ exhibits a curious phenomenon of a regular rise and fall, reminding
+ the observer of a tide, a phenomenon by no means confined to Lake
+ Winnipeg, but occurring on sheets of water of much smaller extent.
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-14"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-14"><u>14</u></a> What we should call to-day a "concession".
+</p>
+<a name="note-5-15"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#5-15"><u>15</u></a> The term Rocky Mountains was probably first officially
+ applied by the American expedition, under Lewis and Clarke, sent out
+ by the United States Government in 1804 to take possession of the
+ coast of Oregon, but it was used twenty or thirty years earlier by
+ British explorers of Western Canada.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0006"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER VI
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ The Geographical Conditions of the Canadian Dominion
+</h3>
+<p>
+ Before we continue to follow the adventures of the pioneers of British
+ North America, I think&mdash;even if it seems wearisome and discursive&mdash;my
+ readers would better understand this story if I placed before them a
+ general description of what is now the Dominion of Canada, more
+ particularly as it was seen and discovered by the earliest European
+ explorers.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The most prominent feature on the east, and that which was nearest to
+ Europe, was the large island of NEWFOUNDLAND, 42,000 square miles in
+ extent, that is to say, nearly as large as England without Wales. It
+ seems to bar the way of the direct sea access by the Gulf of St.
+ Lawrence to the very heart of North America; and, until the Straits of
+ Belle Isle and of Cabot were discovered, did certainly arrest the
+ voyages of the earliest pioneers. Newfoundland, as you can see on the
+ map, has been cut into and carved by the forces of nature until it has
+ a most fantastic outline. Long peninsulas of hills alternate with
+ deep, narrow gulfs, and about the south-east and east coasts there are
+ innumerable islets, most of which in the days of the early discoverers
+ were the haunt of millions of sea birds who resorted there for
+ breeding purposes. The heart of Newfoundland, so to speak, is an
+ elevated country with hills and mountains rising to a little over 2000
+ feet. A great deal of the country is, or was, dense forests, chiefly
+ consisting of fir trees. As numerous almost as the sea birds were the
+ seals and walruses which frequented the Newfoundland coasts. Inland
+ there were very large numbers of reindeer, generally styled nowadays
+ by the French-Canadian name of <i>Caribou</i><a name="6-1"></a><a href="#note-6-1"><small>[1]</small></a>. Besides reindeer there
+ were wolves, apparently of a smaller size than those of the mainland.
+ There were also lynxes and foxes, besides polar bears, martens,
+ squirrels, &amp;c. The human inhabitants of Newfoundland, whom I shall
+ describe in the next chapter, were known subsequently by the name of
+ Beothuk, or Beothik, a nickname of no particular meaning. They had
+ evidently been separated for many centuries from contact with the
+ Amerindians of the mainland, though they may have been visited
+ occasionally on the north by the Eskimo. They had in fact been so long
+ separated from the other Amerindians of North America that they were
+ strikingly different from them in their habits, customs, and language.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The climate of Newfoundland is not nearly so cold as that of the
+ mainland, nor so hot in summer, but it is spoilt at times by fogs and
+ sea mists which conceal the landscape for days together. In the
+ wintertime, and quite late in the spring, quantities of ice hang about
+ the shores of the islands, and when the warm weather comes, these
+ accumulations of ice slip away into the Atlantic in the form of
+ icebergs and are most dangerous to shipping.
+</p>
+<p>
+ To the south-east of Newfoundland the sea is very shallow for hundreds
+ of miles, the remains no doubt of a great extension of North America
+ in the direction of Europe which had sunk below the surface ages ago.
+ In this shallow water&mdash;the "Banks" of Newfoundland&mdash;fish, especially
+ codfish, swarmed in millions, and still continue to swarm with little,
+ if any, diminution from the constant toll of the fishing fleets.
+ Another creature found in great abundance on these coasts is the true
+ lobster,<a name="6-2"></a><a href="#note-6-2"><small>[2]</small></a> which filled as important a part in the diet of the
+ Beothuk natives, before the European occupation, as the salmon did in
+ the dietary of the British Columbian tribes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next most striking feature in the geography of Eastern North
+ America is NOVA SCOTIA. AS you look at it on the map this province
+ seems to be a long peninsula connected with the mainland by the narrow
+ isthmus of Chignecto; but its northernmost portion&mdash;Cape
+ Breton&mdash;really consists of two big and two little islands, only
+ separated from Nova Scotia by a very narrow strait&mdash;the Gut of Canso.
+ On the north of Nova Scotia lies the large Prince Edward Island, and
+ north of this again the small group of the Magdalen Islands,
+ discovered by Cartier, the resort of herds of immense walruses at one
+ time. Due west of Nova Scotia the country, first flat (like Nova
+ Scotia itself) and at one time covered with magnificent forests, rises
+ into a very hilly region which culminates on the north in the Shikshok
+ Mountains of the Gaspé Peninsula (nearly 4000 feet in height) and the
+ White Mountains (over 6000 feet) and the Adirondak Mountains (over
+ 5000 feet). The White, the Green, and the Adirondak Mountains lie just
+ within the limits of the United States.
+</p>
+<p>
+ North of the Gaspé Peninsula, in the great Gulf of St. Lawrence, is
+ Anticosti Island, which rises on the south in a series of terraces
+ until it reaches an altitude of about 2000 feet. This island, which is
+ well wooded, was said to have swarmed with reindeer at one time, and
+ perhaps other forms of deer also, and to have possessed grizzly bears
+ which fed on the deer, besides Polar bears visiting it in the winter.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0006"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<a href="images/map06-large.jpg"> <img src="images/map06-small.jpg" width="606" height="400" alt="Map of Canada"></a>
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<p class="ar"> [<a href="images/map06-large.jpg"><small>LARGER MAP</small></a>]</p>
+
+<p>
+ Newfoundland is separated from the mainland of LABRADOR on the north
+ by the Strait of Belle Isle, and from Cape Breton Island on the south
+ by Cabot Strait. Labrador is an immense region on the continent, where
+ the coast (except for the deep inlet of Melville Lake) soon rises into
+ an elevated plateau 2000 feet in height, which is strewn with almost
+ uncountable lakes, out of which rivers flow north, south, east, and
+ west. On the north-east corner of Labrador there are mountains from
+ 3000 to 4000 feet, overlooking the sea. The whole of this vast
+ Labrador or Ungava Peninsula, which is bounded on the south by the
+ River and Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the north by Hudson's Bay and
+ Hudson's Straits, is an inhospitable land, at no time with much
+ population.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The winter of Labrador is long and severe; one would need to have
+ blood like brandy, a skin of brass, and an eye of glass not to suffer
+ from the rigours of a Labrador winter. In the summer the frequent fogs
+ render the air damp, and the constant breezes from the immense fields
+ of ice floating in the gulf keep the land very cool, and make any
+ alteration in the winter dress almost unnecessary" (James M'Kenzie).
+ Labrador and the lands farther north on the continent of North America
+ are separated from Greenland on the east by the broad straits&mdash;a great
+ branch of the Atlantic&mdash;named after Davis and Baffin, who first
+ explored them. Passing up Davis Strait, along the coast of Labrador to
+ beyond 60° N. lat., the voyager comes to Hudson's Straits, which, if
+ followed up first to the northwards and then to the south-west, would
+ lead him into the great expanse of Hudson's Bay, one of the most
+ important features in the geography of North America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ HUDSON'S BAY, which is a great inland sea with an area of about
+ 315,000 square miles, has a southern loop or extension called James
+ Bay, the shores of which are not at a very great distance either from
+ Lake Superior to the south-west, or from the source of the River
+ Saguenay on the south. The Saguenay flows into the Lower St. Lawrence
+ River. It is therefore not surprising that as soon as the French began
+ to settle in Lower Canada they heard of a vast northern inland sea of
+ salt water&mdash;Hudson's Bay. But the people who discovered and surveyed
+ Hudson's Bay during the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth
+ centuries were always on the search for a passage out of its waters
+ into the Arctic Sea, which would enable them to get right round
+ America into the Pacific Ocean.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In Arctic North America Nature really seems to have been preparing
+ during millions of years a grim joke with which to baffle exploring
+ humanity! It is easy enough to pass from Davis Straits into Hudson's
+ Bay, but to get out of Hudson's Bay in the direction of the Arctic
+ Ocean is like getting out of a very cleverly arranged maze. There are
+ innumerable false exits, which have disappointed one Arctic explorer
+ after another. When they had discovered that Hudson's Bay to the south
+ was only like a great bottle, and had no outlet, they explored its
+ northern waters; and when they found Chesterfield Inlet on the
+ north-west, which leads into Baker Lake, they thought perhaps here was
+ the passage through into the Arctic Sea. But no; that was no good. To
+ the north of Chesterfield Inlet was a broad channel called Roe's
+ Welcome, which led into Wager Bay and through frozen straits into
+ Fox's Channel, and this again into Ross Bay. Here only a very narrow
+ isthmus separates Hudson's Bay from the Arctic Sea; but still it is an
+ isthmus of solid land. Turning to the north-east and north there are
+ the broad waters of Fox's Channel leading into Fox's Basin; but the
+ north-west corner of this inland sea was so blocked with ice and
+ islands that it was not until the year 1822 that the <i>real</i> northern
+ outlet of Hudson's Bay was discovered by Captain EDWARD PARRY to be
+ the narrow Fury and Hecla Straits (the discovery was not completed
+ until 1839 <a name="p125"></a>by the Hudson's Bay Company's explorers T. SIMPSON and W.
+ DEASE).
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here you have found the way out into the Gulf of Boothia, which
+ communicates in the north with Barrow Strait and Baffin's Bay. But
+ across the supposed peninsula of Boothia there were discovered, in
+ 1847, by Dr. JOHN RAE (also an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company)
+ the narrow Bellot Straits, which lead into Franklin Straits and so
+ into M'Clintock Channel and the Arctic Ocean. After this you might
+ theoretically (if the ice permitted it) sail or steam your ship
+ through Victoria Straits and Coronation Gulf till you got into
+ Beaufort Sea (part of the open Arctic Ocean), or, by turning round
+ Prince Albert Land, pass through the Prince of Wales' Straits or
+ M'Clure Straits into the same Beaufort Sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The North-West Passage across the Arctic extremity of North America,
+ therefore, <i>did</i> exist after all, and the directest route would be up
+ Davis Straits, through Hudson's Straits into Fox's Basin, then through
+ the Fury and Hecla Straits into the Gulf of Boothia, then through the
+ Bellot Straits and Franklin Straits (past Victorialand and Kemp
+ Peninsula) and out through the Dolphin and Union Straits into the
+ Arctic Ocean, and so on round the north coast of Alaska, past Bering's
+ Straits into Bering Sea and the Pacific. But of course the
+ accumulations of ice completely block continuous navigation.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The huge jagged island of BAFFIN'S LAND differs from much of Arctic
+ America in that it has high land rising into mountains. This is so
+ completely covered with ice that it is of little interest under
+ present circumstances to the world of civilization, though the large
+ herds of musk oxen which it once supported were of much use to Arctic
+ explorers as a food supply in winter. The coasts are inhabited by a
+ few thousand Eskimo, and Davis Straits and Baffin's Bay possess a
+ certain amount of commercial importance owing to the whale fisheries
+ which are carried on there by the British, the Danes, the Americans,
+ and the Eskimo. In fact the importance of these whale fisheries have
+ of late made the Americans of the United States a little inclined to
+ challenge the British possession of these great Arctic islands. North
+ Devon, North Somerset, Prince of Wales' Land, Melville Island, Banks
+ Land, Prince Albert Land, &amp;c. &amp;c, are names of other great Arctic
+ islands completely within the grip of the ice. The nature of their
+ interior is almost unknown. They are at present of use to no form of
+ man unless it be to a few wandering Eskimo, who come to their coasts
+ in the summer to kill seals.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The great NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES of the Canadian Dominion extend from
+ the American frontier of Alaska (which is the 141° of W. long.) to the
+ Ungava Peninsula, which abuts on Labrador. Where this vast region
+ slopes to the Arctic Ocean and Hudson's Bay it is rather low and flat,
+ except between Alaska and the Mackenzie River, and between the
+ Mackenzie and the watershed of Hudson's Bay. The principal river
+ system in the far North-West is that of the great Mackenzie River,
+ which flows into the Arctic Ocean (Beaufort Sea) through an immense
+ delta, and is one of the longest rivers in the world. The southernmost
+ sources of the Mackenzie (such as the Peace River and the Athabaska
+ River) rise in the Rocky Mountains to the east of British Columbia.
+ These waters are stored for a time in Lake Athabaska, and then under
+ the name of Slave River flow northwards into the Great Slave Lake, and
+ out of this, under the name of Mackenzie River, into Beaufort Sea,
+ through an immense delta. The Great Bear Lake is also a feeder of the
+ Mackenzie.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Two other Arctic rivers at one time thought to be of great importance
+ as means of communication with the Arctic Ocean, are the Great Fish
+ River, which flows into Elliot Bay, and the Coppermine River, which
+ enters Coronation Gulf. The other northward-flowing rivers (passing
+ through innumerable lakes and lakelets) enter Hudson's Bay.
+</p>
+<p>
+ West of the great Mackenzie River rises the northernmost extension of
+ the Rocky Mountains. All this easternmost part of Alaska, which is
+ under British control, is a region of great elevation, something like
+ parts of Central Asia. The streams which rise here unite in the great
+ Yukon River, and this has its outlet in Bering's Sea. Some points of
+ the great mountains within the limits of British territory in this
+ direction reach to nearly 20,000 feet (Mount Logan).
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the climate of the northern parts of the Canadian Dominion differs
+ very greatly in the west as compared to the east. For instance, the
+ northern parts of Labrador are cruelly Arctic, hopelessly frozen,
+ though they are in the same latitude as St. Petersburg (the capital of
+ European Russia) and as the splendidly forested northern parts of
+ British Columbia. Eastern Labrador is a region in which explorers have
+ frequently perished from cold and starvation. Although in the lofty
+ parts of the Yukon country (three hundred and fifty miles north of
+ treeless Labrador) the winter is intensely cold, and the ground is
+ frozen for a considerable depth downwards, all the year round, there
+ are still great forests; and a white and Amerindian population find it
+ possible to live there all the year round, while animal life is
+ extremely abundant. On the other hand, a good deal of the territory
+ between Mackenzie River and Hudson's Bay is almost uninhabitable,
+ except during the summertime, owing to the depth of the snow and the
+ bare rocky nature of the ground.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The treeless area north of Lake Athabaska (the "barren lands" of the
+ Canadian Dominion) seems to consist of nothing but slabs of rock and
+ loose stones. Yet this region is far from being without vegetation.
+ The rock is often covered with a thin or thick sod of lichen
+ <a name="p128"></a>("reindeer moss", in some districts three feet deep) intermixed with
+ the roots of the wishakapakka herb (<i>Ledum palustre</i>, from which
+ Labrador tea is made), of cranberries, gooseberries, heather (with
+ white bell flowers), and a dwarf birch. This last, in sheltered places
+ where a little vegetable soil has been formed, grows into a low
+ scrubby bush. As to the gooseberries&mdash;here and farther south&mdash;Hearne
+ describes them as "thriving best on the stony or rocky ground, open
+ and much exposed to the sun". They spread along the ground like vines.
+ The small red fruit is always most plentiful and fine on the under
+ side of the branches, probably owing to the reflected heat of the
+ stones. In the bleaker places a hard, black, crumply lichen&mdash;the
+ "Tripe de roche" of the French Canadians (<i>Gyrophoreus</i>) grows on the
+ rocks and stones, and is of great service to the Amerindians, as it
+ furnishes them with a temporary subsistence when no animal food can be
+ procured. This lichen, when boiled, turns to a gummy consistence
+ something like sago. Hearne describes it as being remarkably good when
+ used to thicken broth; but some other pioneers complained that it made
+ them and their Indians seriously ill. Another lichen, "reindeer moss"
+ (<i>Cladina</i>), is also eaten by men as well as deer. The <i>muskegs</i>, or
+ bogs and marshes, produce in the summertime a very rapid growth of
+ grass (as well as breeding swarms of mosquitoes!), and thus furnish
+ food for the geese and swans which throng them between June and
+ October.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the summertime all these northern territories of Canada&mdash;from the
+ basin of Lake Winnipeg, with its white pelicans, to the Arctic
+ circle&mdash;swarm with birds, wild swans, geese, ducks, plovers, grouse,
+ cranes, eagles, owls of several kinds&mdash;especially the great snowy
+ eagle-owl&mdash;red-breasted thrushes, black and white snow-buntings,
+ scarlet grosbeaks (the female green and grey), crested jays, and
+ ravens "of a beautiful glossy black, richly tinged with purple", but
+ smaller in size than those of Europe.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This is also the country for bears. Some grizzlies still linger here.
+ Their range at one time extended to near the Arctic circle. In
+ Alaska (British as well as United States) there is an enormous
+ chocolate-coloured bear, the biggest in the world. The Polar bear,
+ usually creamy white along the seacoast, is stated to range inland
+ during the summer over the "barren grounds", and to develop either a
+ permanent local variety or a seasonal change of coat, which is
+ greyish-brown or blue-grey.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The black bear in northern Canada is said to give birth at times to
+ cubs which are cinnamon-brown in colour.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "In the early summer the black bears swim up and down the northern
+ rivers with their mouths open, swallowing the immense number of water
+ insects which have come into being at that season." Hearne goes on to
+ state that bears which have subsisted on this food for some days, when
+ cut open emit a stench that is intolerable, and which taints their
+ flesh to a sickening degree. The insects on which they feed are mostly
+ of two kinds: one a sort of grasshopper with a hard black skin, and
+ the other a soft, brown, sluggish fly. "This last is the most
+ numerous. In some of the lakes such quantities are forced into the
+ bays when the wind blows hard, that they are pressed together in dead
+ multitudes and remain a great nuisance. I have several times, in my
+ inland voyages from York Fort (Hudson's Bay), found it scarcely
+ possible to land in some of those bays for the intolerable stench of
+ those insects, which in some places were lying in putrid masses to the
+ depth of two or three feet." It is more than probable that the bears
+ occasionally feed on these dead insects. After the middle of July,
+ when they take to a diet of berries, they are excellent eating, and
+ continue to be so to the end of the winter.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Arctic foxes of this region when young are sooty black all over,
+ and gradually change to a light ash-grey in colour, with a dark,
+ almost blue, tint on the head, legs, and back. In winter they usually
+ become white all over, with or without a black tip to the tail; but it
+ is recorded by some travellers that not all the foxes of the <i>Canis
+ lagopus</i> species turn white; some keep their dark-grey colour all the
+ year round. The common fox (<i>C. vulpes fulvus</i>) in Northern Canada is
+ sometimes black, with white-tipped hairs. Wolves in these far northern
+ regions do not seem to have been so abundant as farther south.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The deer tribe are represented (north of the Athabaska region) by the
+ reindeer and the elk (called by the Canadians "Moose"). The wapiti or
+ red deer (for which the common Amerindian name in the north was
+ <i>Waskesiu</i>) seldom ranged farther north than the vicinity of Lake
+ Winnipeg. The reindeer of the "barren ground" sub-species extended to
+ the Arctic seacoast, and were at one time especially abundant in
+ Labrador. Here they were so tame, down to a hundred years ago, that
+ fishermen were often known to shoot many of them from the windows of
+ their huts near the seashore. This type (<i>Rangifer tarandus arcticus</i>)
+ might possibly be domesticated; not so the larger and much wilder
+ Caribou woodland reindeer of the more southern and western parts of
+ the Dominion, which dislikes the neighbourhood of man. The elk or
+ moose, east of the Rocky Mountains, was not found northward of about
+ 50° to 55°; but west of that range extended over all British Columbia
+ and Alaska, in which latter country it grows to a giant size and
+ develops enormous antlers.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hearne says of the elk in northern Canada: "In summer, when they
+ frequent the margins of rivers and lakes, they are often killed by the
+ Indians in the water while they are crossing rivers or swimming from
+ the mainland to islands, &amp;c. When pursued in this manner, they are
+ the most inoffensive of all animals, never making any resistance; and
+ the young ones are so simple that I remember to have seen an Indian
+ paddle his canoe up to one of them and take it by the poll without the
+ least opposition; the poor, harmless animal seeming at the same time
+ as contented alongside the canoe as if swimming by the side of its
+ dam, and looking up in our faces with the same fearless innocence that
+ a house lamb would; making use of its fore foot almost every instant
+ to clear its eyes of mosquitoes, which at that time were remarkably
+ numerous.... The moose are also the easiest to tame and domesticate of
+ any of the deer kind. I have repeatedly seen them at Churchill as tame
+ as sheep, and even more so; for they would follow their keeper any
+ distance from home, and at his call return with him without the least
+ trouble, or ever offering to deviate from the path."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The most northern range of the elk would seem to be the region round
+ Lake Athabaska.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The musk ox (<i>Ovibos</i>) is perhaps the most remarkable beast of Arctic
+ Canada.<a name="6-3"></a><a href="#note-6-3"><small>[3]</small></a> Samuel Hearne is my principal source for the following
+ notes as to its habits and appearance: The number of bulls is very few
+ in proportion to the cows, for it is rare to see more than two or
+ three full-grown bulls with the largest herd; and from the number of
+ the males that are found dead, the Indians are of opinion that they
+ kill each other in contending for the females. In the rutting season
+ they are so jealous of the cows that they run at either man or beast
+ who offers to approach them, and have been observed to run and bellow
+ even at ravens and other large birds which chanced to alight near
+ them. They delight in the most stony and mountainous parts of the
+ "barren ground", but are seldom found at any great distance from the
+ woods. Though they are a beast of great magnitude, and apparently of a
+ very unwieldy inactive structure, yet they climb the rocks with ease
+ and agility, and are nearly as surefooted as a goat. Like it, too,
+ they will feed on anything; and though they seem fondest of grass, yet
+ in winter, when grass cannot be had in sufficient quantity, they will
+ eat moss or any other herbage they can find, as also the tops of
+ willows and the tender branches of the pine tree.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The musk ox, when full grown, is as large as the generality of
+ English black cattle; but their legs, though thick, are not so long,
+ nor is their tail longer than that of a bear; and, like the tail of
+ that animal, it always bends downward and inward, so that it is
+ entirely hid by the long hair of the rump and hind quarters. The hunch
+ on their shoulders is not large, being little more in proportion than
+ that of a deer. Their hair is in some parts very long, particularly on
+ the belly, sides, and hind quarters; but the longest hair about them,
+ particularly the bulls, is under the throat, extending from the chin
+ to the lower part of the chest between the fore legs. It there hangs
+ down like a horse's mane inverted, and is fully as long, which gives
+ the animal a most formidable appearance. It is of the hair from this
+ part that the Eskimo make their mosquito wigs (face screens or masks).
+ In winter the musk oxen are provided with a thick fine wool or fur
+ that grows at the root of the long hair, and shields them from the
+ intense cold to which they are exposed during that season; but as the
+ summer advances this fur loosens from the skin, and by frequently
+ rolling themselves on the ground it works out to the end of the hair,
+ and in time drops off, leaving little for their summer clothing except
+ the long hair. This season is so short in these high latitudes, that
+ the new fleece begins to appear almost as soon as the old one drops
+ off, so that by the time the cold becomes severe they are again
+ provided with a winter dress."
+</p>
+<p>
+ According to Hearne, the flesh of the musk ox does not resemble that
+ of the bison, but is more like the meat of the moose or wapiti. The
+ fat is of a clear white, "slightly tinged with a light azure". The
+ calves and young heifers are good eating, but the flesh of the bulls
+ both smells and tastes so strongly of musk as to be very disagreeable;
+ "even the knife that cuts the flesh of an old bull will smell so
+ strongly of musk that nothing but scouring the blade quite bright can
+ remove it, and the handle will retain the scent for a long time".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Bisons of the "wood" variety are (or were) found far up the heights of
+ the Rocky Mountains and in the regions south-west of the Great Slave
+ Lake. These "wood buffaloes" delight in mountain valleys, and never
+ resort to the plains. And higher than anything, of course, range the
+ great white mountain goat-antelopes (<i>Oreamnus montanus</i>) from
+ northern Alaska to the Columbia River.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The north and the north-west were, of course, pre-eminently the great
+ fur-trading regions, though all parts of the vast Dominion have at one
+ time or another yielded furs for commerce with the white man. The
+ principal fur-bearing smaller mammals of the north and north-west were
+ wolves, foxes, lynxes, gluttons (wolverene), otters, martens (sables)
+ and black fishing martens, mink (a kind of polecat), ermine-stoats,
+ weasels, polar hares (<i>Lepus timidus</i>), beavers, musquash, lemming,
+ gopher or pouched ground-squirrels, and the common red squirrel of
+ North America. The grey squirrel and striped chipmunk are only found
+ in southern Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The musquash (<i>Fiber zibethicus</i>) is such a characteristic animal of
+ northern Canada that it is worth while to give Hearne's description of
+ it (I would mention it is really a huge <i>vole</i>, and no relation of the
+ beaver):&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The musk rat or musquash builds a dwelling near the banks of ponds or
+ swamps to shelter it from the bitter cold of the winter, but never on
+ land, always on the ice, as soon as it is firm enough, taking care to
+ keep a hole open to admit it to dive for its food, which chiefly
+ consists of the roots of grass or arums. It sometimes happens in very
+ cold winters that the holes communicating with their dwellings under
+ the water are so blocked by ice that they cannot break through them.
+ When this is the case, and they have no provisions left in the house,
+ they begin to eat one another. At last there may be only one rat left
+ out of a whole lodge. They occasionally eat fish, but in general feed
+ very cleanly, and when fat are good eating. They are easily tamed and
+ soon grow fond of their owner. They are very cleanly and playful, and
+ 'smell exceedingly pleasant of musk', but their resemblance to the rat
+ is so great that few are partial to them, though of course they are
+ much larger in size, and have webbed hind feet and a flat scaly tail.
+ In Canadian regions farther south the musquash no longer builds on the
+ ice, but in swamps, where it raises heaps of mud like islands in the
+ surrounding water. On the top of these mounds they build their nests,
+ and on the top of the musquash nest, or 'lodge', wild geese frequently
+ lay their eggs and bring forth their young brood without any fear of
+ being molested by foxes."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The YUKON territories of the Dominion, and above all the State of
+ BRITISH COLUMBIA, constitute a very distinct region from the rest of
+ British North America, not only in their tribes of Amerindians but in
+ their fauna, flora, and climate. British Columbia is one of the most
+ beautiful and richly endowed countries in the world. Here, in spite
+ of northern latitudes, the warm airs coming up from the Pacific Ocean
+ act somewhat in the same way as the Gulf Stream on north-west Europe,
+ and favour the growth of magnificent forests.
+</p>
+<p>
+ All this north-western part of British Columbia is very mountainous,
+ and the rocks are rich in minerals, especially gold in the Fraser and
+ Columbia Rivers, far north in the upper valley of the Yukon, and
+ copper and coal in Vancouver Island.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The rainfall in British Columbia is considerable, and the
+ flora&mdash;trees, plants, ferns&mdash;richer than anywhere else in North
+ America, with many resemblances to the trees and plants of Japan and
+ northern China. In British Columbia more than in any other part of the
+ world are found the noblest developments of the pines, firs, and
+ junipers (<i>Coniferæ</i>).
+</p>
+<p>
+ The coast rivers swarm with salmon, and perhaps because of the
+ abundance of sea fish close in shore there have been developed in the
+ course of ages those remarkable aquatic mammals, the sea lions or fur
+ seals (<i>Otaria</i>), whose relationship to the true seals is a very
+ distant one. On the Alaskan coasts and islands is <i>Otaria ursina</i>, the
+ creature which provides the sealskin fur of commerce. There is also
+ the much larger sea lion (<i>Otaria stelleri</i>), on the coasts of British
+ Columbia and Vancouver Island. Alexander Henry, jun., gives some
+ interesting facts about this remarkable beast.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The natives at Oak Point, during the time Mr. Keith was there, killed
+ five very large sea lions by spearing them at night. Two canoes being
+ lashed together, they approach very softly, and throw their spears,
+ which are fastened by a long, strong cord, with a barb so fixed in a
+ socket that, when it strikes the animal and pierces the flesh, it is
+ detached from the shaft of the spear, but remains fastened to the
+ cord. This is instantly made fast between the canoes; the animal
+ dives and swims down river, dragging the canoes with such velocity
+ that they may be in danger of filling, and require great skill in
+ steering. In this manner they are carried down some miles before the
+ animal becomes exhausted with loss of blood, makes for the shore, and
+ lies on the beach, where they dispatch it and cut it up. The price of
+ a sea lion among the natives is one slave and an assortment of other
+ articles. Mr. Keith bought the flesh of one of these animals, and we
+ had some roasted; it resembles bear's meat. The hair is like that of a
+ horse, in summer of a chestnut colour. The natives, and also the
+ Russians, are particularly fond of marine animals, such as whales,
+ &amp;c.; they drink the oil like milk."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Another notable water beast of the British Columbia coast was the sea
+ otter (<i>Enhydris</i>), described on p. <a href="#p305">305</a>. Such an immense value was set
+ on its fur that it is now nearly extinct within British limits.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The huge chocolate-coloured bear of the Yukon valley has already been
+ mentioned; also the very large, blackish-brown wild dog (<i>Canis
+ pambasileus</i>), which from one or two passages in the writings of
+ Canadian pioneers may also be found as far south as the British
+ Columbian Rocky Mountains. In the Yukon country the elk (which was
+ formerly very common in British Columbia) grows to gigantic
+ proportions with longer and larger antlers than elsewhere. In the
+ forested mountains of British Columbia (as well as farther north) are
+ the wood bison, the white mountain goat, grizzly bears, black bears,
+ two kinds of lynx, the wapiti red deer, and the large bighorn sheep.
+</p>
+<p>
+ These (<i>Ovis montana</i>) sheep are of a grey or leaden colour; the rump
+ and the inner side of the legs are white; the hoofs black, about one
+ inch long. "The hair is rather soft, and at the roots is mixed with
+ exceedingly fine white wool, which seems to grow only in certain
+ patches. The neck is relatively much thicker than that of other
+ animals of the same size; the legs and hoofs are also strongly built,
+ like the neck." The horns of the female are comparatively small,
+ flat, and have only a small bend backward; they are of a
+ dirty-yellowish white, marked with closely connected annulations to
+ the very tip. The legs are brown, as are also the ends of the hairs
+ about the neck; the hoofs are black. "A ewe will weigh about 100 lb.
+ when in full flesh, with only the entrails taken out. The head bears
+ every resemblance to that of our European sheep." The colour of the
+ males is nearly the same as that of the females, only rather browner;
+ they are much larger and more strongly built, with a pair of enormous
+ horns, which incline backward. As they grow they bend downward, and in
+ the course of time form a complete curve and project forward. At the
+ root the horns are nearly three inches square, the flat sides
+ opposite; they are marked with closely connected ridges and end in a
+ tapering flat point.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When the horns grow to a great length, forming a complete curve, the
+ tips project on both sides of the head so as to prevent the ram from
+ feeding. This, with their great weight, causes the sheep to dwindle to
+ a mere skeleton and die. The bighorn sheep feed much in the caverns of
+ the Rocky Mountains, eating a kind of moss and grass growing on the
+ floors of these caves, and also a peculiar soft, sweet-tasting "clay",
+ of which the natives also are fond.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The southern part of British Columbia contains the mule deer of
+ western North America (<i>Mazama macrotis</i>), and a very strange rodent,
+ the sewellel or mountain beaver (<i>Haplodon</i>), a creature distantly
+ allied to squirrels, marmots, and beavers, but restricted in its
+ distribution to a few parts of California, Oregon, and British
+ Columbia. Amongst the birds noteworthy in the landscape are the
+ white-headed sea eagles and Californian condors (<i>Pseudogryphus
+ californianus</i>). Humming-birds range through British Columbia and
+ Vancouver Island between mid-April and October.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the regions about the upper Kootenay River (Eastern British
+ Columbia), before the railway was constructed, there were wild horses,
+ descended, no doubt, from those which had escaped from the Spaniards
+ in New Mexico and California. They went in large herds, and in the
+ winter when the snow was deep the natives would try to catch them by
+ running them down with relays of fresh horses, or driving them up the
+ mountains into the deepest snow or some narrow pass. A noose would
+ then be thrown about the exhausted animal, which would be instantly
+ mounted by an Indian and broken immediately to the saddle. Some of
+ these wild horses were exceedingly swift, well-proportioned, and
+ handsome in shape, but they seldom proved as docile as those born in
+ captivity. When in a wild condition they would snort so loudly through
+ the nostrils on descrying an enemy that they could be heard at a
+ distance of five hundred yards.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba&mdash;the MIDDLE
+ WEST&mdash;represent mainly the great prairie region of the Canadian
+ Dominion. Nearly all the streams here flow from the eastern side of
+ the Rocky Mountains and direct their course to the basin of Lake
+ Winnipeg and to Hudson's Bay. A few turn south-west to the Missouri
+ and Mississippi. The landscapes here remind one more of the middle
+ part of the United States. The climate is severe in winter but very
+ warm and dry in summer. In the extreme south, within the basin of the
+ upper Missouri, the "prickly pear" (<i>Opuntia</i>) cactus grows in
+ sheltered places, and suggests affinities with distant Colorado and
+ California.
+</p>
+<p>
+ These great plains and river courses of the middle West were, until
+ about fifty years ago, one of the world's great natural parks or
+ zoological gardens. Large numbers of wapiti deer, of the smaller
+ Virginian deer,<a name="6-4"></a><a href="#note-6-4"><small>[4]</small></a> and of the <a name="p139"></a>prongbuck "antelope"<a name="6-5"></a> <a href="#note-6-5"><small>[5]</small></a> thronged the
+ grassy flats, and elk browsed on the foliage of the thickets along the
+ river banks. Grizzly bears and black bears,<a name="6-6"></a><a href="#note-6-6"><small>[6]</small></a> large grey wolves, the
+ small coyote wolf, the pretty little kit fox and large red fox preyed
+ on these herbivores, as did also pumas and lynxes. Marmots and prairie
+ hares (<i>Lepus campestris</i>)&mdash;often called rabbits by the pioneers, who
+ also named the marmots "wood-chucks"&mdash;frolicked in the herbage, and
+ formed the principal prey of the numerous rattlesnakes. By the shores
+ of streams and lakes stood rows of stately cranes: the whooping crane,
+ of large size, pure white, with black quill feathers, the crown of the
+ head crimson scarlet and the long legs black; and the purple-brown
+ crane, somewhat smaller in size. On hot, calm days in the region of
+ Lake Winnipeg the cranes soar to an amazing height, flying in circles,
+ till by degrees they are almost out of sight. Yet their loud note
+ sounds so distinct and near that the spectator might fancy they were
+ close to him.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The air at this season is full of great birds&mdash;eagles, buzzards,
+ hawks, and falcons&mdash;soaring in circles to look out for prey among the
+ flocks of wild swans, white geese, bernicle geese and brent geese,
+ duck and teal, which cover the backwaters and the marshes and shallow
+ lagoons. Turkey buzzards, coming up from the south, act as scavengers
+ during the summer months. Immense flocks of passenger pigeons,
+ buntings, grosbeaks, attack the ripening fruits and the wild rice of
+ the swamps. Grouse in uncountable numbers inhabit the drier tablelands
+ and open moors.<a name="6-7"></a><a href="#note-6-7"><small>[7]</small></a>
+</p>
+<a name="image-0007"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc07.jpg" width="281" height="450"
+alt="Indians Lying in Wait for Moose">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>INDIANS LYING IN WAIT FOR MOOSE</h5>
+<p>
+ But&mdash;a hundred years ago and more&mdash;the dominant features in the
+ fauna of the Middle West was the bison. Between the Athabaska and
+ Saskatchewan Rivers on the north, the Rocky Mountains on the west, and
+ Lake Superior on the east the bison passed backwards and forwards over
+ the great plains and prairies in millions, when white explorers first
+ penetrated these lands. They moved in herds which concealed the ground
+ from sight for miles. Here are some word pictures selected from the
+ writings of the pioneers between 1770 and 1810:
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The buffaloes chiefly delight in wide open plains, which in those
+ parts produce very long coarse grass, or rather a kind of small flags
+ and rushes, upon which they feed; but when pursued they always take to
+ the woods. They are of such an amazing strength, that when they fly
+ through the woods from a pursuer, they frequently brush down trees as
+ thick as a man's arm; and be the snow ever so deep, such is their
+ strength and agility, that they are enabled to plunge through it
+ faster than the swiftest Indian can run in snowshoes. To this I have
+ been an eyewitness many times, and once had the vanity to think that I
+ could have kept pace with them; but though I was at that time
+ celebrated for being particularly fleet of foot in snowshoes, I soon
+ found that I was no match for the buffaloes, notwithstanding they were
+ then plunging through such deep snow, that their bellies made a
+ trench in it as large as if many sacks had been hauled through it. Of
+ all the large beasts in those parts the buffalo is easiest to kill,
+ and the moose are the most difficult; neither are the (red) deer very
+ easy to come at, except in windy weather: indeed it requires much
+ practice and a great deal of patience to slay any of them, as they
+ will by no means suffer a direct approach, unless the hunter be
+ entirely sheltered by woods or willows.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The flesh of the buffalo is exceedingly good eating, and so entirely
+ free from any disagreeable smell or taste, that it resembles beef as
+ nearly as possible."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The spots of wood along the Park River are ravaged by buffaloes
+ (bison); none but the large trees are standing, the bark of which is
+ rubbed perfectly smooth, and heaps of hair and wool lie at the bottom
+ of the trees ... and even the grass is not permitted to grow.... The
+ ground is trampled more by these cattle than about the gate of a
+ farmyard."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The Kris informed me they had seen a calf as white as snow in a herd
+ of buffalo. White buffalo are very scarce. They are of inestimable
+ value among the nations of the Missouri.... There were also some of a
+ dirty-grey colour, but these are very rare."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I brought home two buffalo calves alive; they no sooner lost sight of
+ the herd than they followed my horse like dogs, directly into the
+ fort. On chasing a herd at this season the calves follow it until they
+ are fatigued, when they throw themselves down in high grass and lie
+ still, hiding their heads if possible. But seeing only a man and his
+ horse they remain quiet and allow themselves to be taken. Having been
+ a little handled, they follow like dogs."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the spring, when the ice melted, innumerable buffaloes were killed
+ through attempting to cross the rivers on the melting ice. They would
+ drift by an observer (such as Alexander Henry, jun.) in entire herds
+ of drowned corpses. Vast numbers perished. They formed one continuous
+ line on the current for two days and two nights.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "By this time the river was crowded with them, swimming across,
+ bellowing and grunting terribly. The bulls really looked fierce; all
+ had their tails up, and each appeared eager to land first. The scene
+ would have struck terror to one unaccustomed to such innumerable
+ herds. From out in the plains, as far as the eye could reach, to the
+ middle of the river, they were rushing toward us, and soon began to
+ land about ten yards off. I shot one dead on the spot, my ball having
+ broken his neck; my hunter and guide only wounded theirs. This
+ discharge suddenly halted those on the south side, and turned those
+ that were still in the water."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the autumn:&mdash;"Plains burned in every direction and blind buffalo
+ seen every moment wandering about. The poor beasts have all the hair
+ singed off; even the skin in many places is shrivelled up and terribly
+ burned, and their eyes are swollen and closed fast. It was really
+ pitiful to see them staggering about, sometimes running afoul of a
+ large stone, at other times tumbling down hill and falling into creeks
+ not yet frozen over. In one spot we found a whole herd lying dead."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Throughout British North America, from the Yukon to Newfoundland, and
+ from Labrador to Vancouver's Island, the rivers and freshwater lakes
+ swarm with fish, and fish that in most cases is exceedingly good to
+ eat. Salmon are most strikingly abundant in the rivers of British
+ Columbia and Newfoundland, but they also ascend most of the rivers
+ flowing into the Atlantic and Hudson's Bay. In the great lakes of
+ Canada and of the middle west there are trout and white fish
+ (<i>Coregonus</i>), pike, bass, chub, barbel, and five species of sturgeon.
+ In the rivers and lakes of the far north-west is found the blackfish
+ (<i>Dallia</i>).
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hearne writes of Lake Athabasca that it swarms with fish, such as
+ pike, trout, perch, barbel, and other kinds not easily identified.
+ Apparently there is also a form of gar-pike found here (see p. <a href="#p74">74</a>);
+ this is described as having scales of a very large and stiff kind, and
+ being a beautiful bright silver in colour. The size of these gar-pike
+ range from two feet to four feet in length. Their flesh was delicately
+ white and soft, but so foul and rank in taste that even the Indians
+ would not eat it. The trout in Lake Athabaska seem to have been
+ enormous, weighing from 35 to 40 pounds, while pike were of about the
+ same weight.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindian tribes and the early European explorers lived mainly on
+ fish, which was a palatable and easily obtained food. Yet it must be
+ admitted that they had a splendid array of large and small game from
+ which to take their toll.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nor was the whole Dominion, from west to east and up to the Arctic
+ zone, wanting in wild vegetable produce fit for man's consumption. The
+ sugar maple (<i>Acer saccharinum</i>) and its ally the <i>Negundo</i> maple
+ provided a delicious syrup; the bark of certain poplars and the bast
+ of the sugar pine were chewed for their well-flavoured sweetness; the
+ wild rice of the marshes will be further described in the next
+ chapter. The wild fruits included delicious strawberries, cherries,
+ gooseberries, currants, black currants, grapes (in the south only),
+ blackberries of many kinds, whortleberries, cranberries, pears of the
+ service tree (<i>Pyrus canadensis</i><a name="6-8"></a><a href="#note-6-8"><small>[8]</small></a>), and raspberries of various
+ types&mdash;red, yellow, and black. Southern Canada and Nova Scotia
+ contained various nut trees of the walnut order (hickories,
+ butter-nuts, &amp;c.), and hazel nuts were found everywhere except in the
+ north.
+</p>
+<p>
+ We have left undescribed what is still politically the most important
+ part of the whole of British North America&mdash;UPPER and LOWER CANADA.
+ These regions lie within the basin of the great St. Lawrence River,
+ beyond all doubt the most important waterway of North America, more
+ important even than the Mississippi. The main origin of the St.
+ Lawrence in the west is Lake Superior, the largest sea of fresh water
+ in the world, which is connected with Lake Nipigon on the north. The
+ waters of Lake Superior are carried over the Sault Ste. Marie rapids
+ into Lake Huron and find a huge backwater in Lake Michigan.<a name="6-9"></a><a href="#note-6-9"><small>[9]</small></a> Out of
+ Lake Huron again they flow past Detroit into Lake Erie. From Duluth,
+ at the westernmost extremity of Lake Superior, to Buffalo, on the
+ easternmost point of Lake Erie, including all Lake Michigan and Lake
+ Huron, with its bays and channels, a steamer can pass with just the
+ one difficulty (easily surmounted) of the rapids at Sault Ste. Marie
+ between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. But after you have left Lake
+ Erie on the east you find yourself in the Niagara River, which at the
+ Niagara Falls plunges several hundred feet downwards into Lake
+ Ontario. From Lake Ontario to the sea along the St. Lawrence there is
+ uninterrupted navigation, though there are rapids that require careful
+ steering both with steamers and boats. Quebec marks the place where
+ the St. Lawrence River suddenly broadens from a river into a tidal
+ gulf of brackish or salt water. Ocean steamers from all over the world
+ can come (except during the height of the winter, when the water
+ freezes) to Quebec. But for the ice in wintertime Quebec would be
+ <i>the</i> great sea-port of eastern Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "If pitiless rock is commonly understood by an 'iron-bound shore',
+ then the coasts of the River St. Lawrence along the northern side of
+ the Gulf may truly be so styled, as nothing scarcely is to be seen
+ for hundreds of leagues but bare rocky mountains, capes and cliffs in
+ various shapes and figures, some of which are dotted with a few spruce
+ firs, while others present their bald pates deprived of covering by
+ the unmerciful hand of time." (James M'Kenzie).
+</p>
+<p>
+ The winters of the Quebec province are extremely cold, but the summer
+ and autumn are warm and sunny. The best winter climate, possibly, in
+ all Canada (though not as good as that of Vancouver Island, British
+ Columbia) is to be found in the small peninsula region, on the shores
+ of Lakes Erie and Huron, between Toronto and Detroit. This is the
+ district which the Jesuit missionaries described as "an earthly
+ paradise" even during the winter-time.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The following extracts, mostly from the journals of Alex. Henry, jun.,
+ give a good idea of the difference in climate and temperature between
+ the western and the central parts of the Canadian Dominion.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The late spring of northern Canada (Lake Nipigon, 50° N. lat.):&mdash;About
+ May 15, the tops of the poplars begin to appear green, with fresh
+ buds; the hills are changing their hue from a dry straw colour to a
+ delightful verdure, and fragrant odours greet us.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Early in March, 1800, in the Assiniboin country (Manitoba, about 29°
+ N. lat.) the snow was entirely gone, for this winter had been an
+ abnormally mild one for central Canada. The birds soon realized the
+ openness of the season, for, on the 7th of March, turkey-buzzards
+ began to arrive from the south, and cormorants, ducks, swans, and
+ other spring birds; indeed, by the 24th of March not only had the snow
+ quite melted, but the meadows had grown so dry with the hot sun that
+ some accidents set them on fire. By April the 11th the weather had
+ become excessively hot, and immense flocks of the traveller-pigeon
+ (<i>Ectopistes</i>) flew northwards over the country."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In somewhat similar latitudes (50°) the spring bursts on the Pacific
+ coast region of British Columbia towards the end of February. "The
+ tall raspberry bushes were in blossom with a beautiful red flower,
+ which appeared more forward than the leaf (<i>Rubus spectabilis</i>). The
+ elder had sprouts an inch long, the alder was also beginning to
+ sprout, and willows were budding."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Although nowhere in Upper and Lower Canada (or in the maritime
+ provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia) are the forests so
+ splendid as in parts of British Columbia, yet nevertheless when this
+ region was first discovered the magnificence of its woodlands greatly
+ impressed even the explorers of the sixteenth and seventeenth
+ centuries, who were not as much given to praise of landscape beauty as
+ are we of later times. These Canadian forests include oaks, elms,
+ pines and firs, chestnuts and beeches, birch trees and sycamores,
+ maples and poplars, willows, alders, and hazelnuts (these last
+ sometimes growing into tall trees with thick trunks). The trees and
+ low-growing plants are partly like those of the north-eastern United
+ States, and partly resemble those of northern and central Europe.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nowadays, owing to two centuries of incessant killing, the beasts and
+ birds of Upper and Lower Canada are not nearly so abundant as they
+ were a hundred years ago. When Canada proper was first discovered, the
+ wapiti red deer was still found in the basin of the St. Lawrence; it
+ has long since been extinct. There are, however, still lingering,
+ reindeer in the north, and elk in the forests of the east. There are
+ also Virginian deer (<i>Mazama</i>), but there is no bison (and, so far as
+ we know, never has been). There is no prongbuck, and many other
+ creatures characteristic of the United States and British Columbia are
+ not found in Upper and Lower Canada or in the maritime provinces. The
+ tree porcupine (<i>Erethizon dorsatus</i>), which the Canadians call
+ "Urson", or "Little Bear" is found still in the well-wooded regions
+ of eastern and southern Canada, as well as in British Columbia and
+ Alaska. In southern Canada there is the wood hare (<i>Lepus
+ sylvaticus</i>), and in the east and north the varying hare (<i>L.
+ americanus</i>) which turns white in winter.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Perhaps the most characteristic animal of this region was and is still
+ the beaver, though the beaver is found all over British North America
+ as far north as the Saskatchewan province and westwards into British
+ Columbia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It is curious that the Indians of central Canada had a belief
+ (recorded by French and English pioneers) that occasionally in the
+ dusk, or at night, they have seen an enormously large beaver in the
+ water, so large that at first sight they have taken it for a moose.
+ Travellers who have related this have surmised that the Indian perhaps
+ saw a bear swimming, or a female moose, and in the dim light mistook
+ it for a giant beaver. But as we know that there were once giant
+ beavers (<i>Trogontherium</i>) as large as a bear, existing in England, it
+ is just possible there may have been a gigantic type of beaver
+ lingering in Canada before the opening up of the country by Europeans.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The beaver of North America is a very similar animal to the beaver
+ which used to exist wild in Wales, England, France, Germany, and
+ central Europe, and which still lingers in some parts of the Rhine
+ valley, Poland, Russia, and Siberia; but the American form is
+ classified as a separate species&mdash;<i>Castor canadensis</i>.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Beavers were sometimes exterminated or diminished in numbers by an
+ epidemic disease, which, according to JAMES TANNER<a name="6-10"></a><a href="#note-6-10"><small>[10]</small></a>, destroyed vast
+ quantities of them.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I found them dead or dying in the water, on the ice, and on the land;
+ sometimes I found one that, having cut a tree half down, had died at
+ its roots; sometimes one who had drawn a stick of timber halfway to
+ his lodge was lying dead by his burthen. Many of them which I opened
+ were red and bloody about the heart. Those in large rivers and running
+ water suffered less; almost all of those that lived in ponds and
+ stagnant water, died. Since that year the beaver have never been so
+ plentiful in the country of Red River and Hudson's Bay as they used
+ formerly to be."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The great attraction which Canada offered to France and England as a
+ field of adventure lay in its wonderful supply of furs. The beaver
+ skins were perhaps the commonest article of export, and were generally
+ regarded as a unit of value, such as a shilling might be. Other skins
+ were valued at "so many beavers," or the smaller ones at half or a
+ quarter of a beaver each. Besides beaver skins, which were used for
+ making hats, as well as capes and coats, the following furs and skins
+ were formerly, or are still, exported from Canada. "Buffalo"
+ robes&mdash;the carefully rubbed-down hides of the bison, rendered, by
+ shaving and rubbing, so thin and supple that they could be easily
+ folded; reindeer and musk-ox skins treated in the same way; marten or
+ sable skins; mink (a kind of polecat); ermine (the white winter dress
+ of the stoat); the fishing marten, or pekan; otter skins; black bear
+ and white polar bear skins; raccoon, muskwash, squirrel, suslik, and
+ marmot skins, and the soft white fur of the polar hare; the white
+ skins of the Arctic fox, the skins of the blue fox, black fox, and red
+ fox;<a name="6-11"></a><a href="#note-6-11"><small>[11]</small></a> wolf skins, and the furs of the wolverene or glutton, and of
+ the skunk&mdash;a handsome black-and-white creature of the weasel family,
+ which emits a most disgusting smell from a gland in its body. (The
+ skunk only comes from the south-central parts of the Canadian
+ Dominion). At one time a good many swans' skins were exported for the
+ sake of the down between the feathers, also the skins of grebes.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ A general fact that must not be forgotten in studying the adventures
+ of the pioneers of Canada was the means which Nature and savage man
+ had provided or invented for quickly traversing in all directions this
+ enormous area of nearly half North America. These means consisted (1)
+ of the distribution of salt and fresh water in such a way that by
+ means of ocean-sailing ships explorers coming from the east could
+ enter through straits and bays of the sea into the heart of Canada;
+ and (2) the facility, on quitting the seashore, of passing up
+ navigable rivers in boats or canoes into big lakes, and from these
+ lakes into other rivers leading to other lakes. Moreover, the
+ different river systems approached so closely to one another that even
+ the Amerindians and the Eskimo, long before the white man, had
+ realized that they had only to pick up their light canoes and carry
+ them a few miles, to launch them on fresh waters which might provide
+ hundreds or even thousands of miles of continuous travel. These are
+ the celebrated "portages" of Canadian history, from the French word
+ <i>porter</i>, to carry, transport. Sometimes the portages were made still
+ easier for loaded canoes by a road being cleared through the scrub and
+ over the rocks, and wooden rollers placed across it. Strong men could
+ then easily haul a loaded canoe over these wooden rollers until it
+ could be launched again in the water. Often these portages were made
+ to circumvent dangerous rapids or waterfalls. The Indians and the
+ French Canadians soon learnt how to steer canoes down rushes of
+ water&mdash;rapids&mdash;which we should think very dangerous on an English
+ river; but of course many of the rivers were obstructed <a name="p150"></a>at intervals
+ by descents of water which no canoe could traverse up or down, and in
+ these cases a path was cut from one smooth part of the river to
+ another, and the canoe carried or hauled overland.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In this way the great French and British explorers found it possible
+ to travel by water from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean across a
+ width of land of something like 2500 miles. The only serious walking
+ that had to be done was the crossing somewhere or other of the Rocky
+ Mountains, where the streams, of course, were far too precipitate in
+ descent to be navigable. In the hot, dusty plains of Assiniboia and
+ the upper Missouri region the Amerindians had introduced horses,
+ obtained indirectly from Spanish Mexico, and these were of great
+ service to the white pioneers, especially in their pursuit of the
+ bison.
+</p>
+<p>
+ So much for the summer season, when the rivers were full and
+ overflowing, and the ground consisted of bare rock, sand, or soil
+ covered with vegetation; the abundance of navigable streams and the
+ suitability of the country to horses rendered very little walking
+ necessary for those who wished to traverse the Canadian Dominion from
+ end to end.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the winter changed these conditions, the rivers became coated with
+ thick ice, and the ground was covered, except in steep places, with an
+ unvarying mantle of snow. Yet transport became just as easy as in the
+ summertime, though perhaps a trifle more fatiguing. Men and women put
+ on snowshoes shaped like tennis rackets, and flew over the hard snow
+ quicker than a canoe could travel, dragging after them small sledges
+ on which their luggage was packed; or, if they had not much luggage,
+ carrying it slung round the shoulders and scurrying away on their
+ snowshoes even swifter for the weight they carried; or they travelled
+ over the smooth ice of the rivers and lakes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Winter travellers, however, were sometimes troubled with a disorder
+ known as the snowshoe evil. This arose from the placing of an unusual
+ strain on the tendons of the leg, occasioned by the weight of the
+ snowshoe. It often resulted in severe inflammation of the lower leg.
+ The local remedy was a drastic one: it was to place a piece of lighted
+ touchwood on the most inflamed part, and to leave it there till the
+ flesh was burnt to the nerve!
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the north and the regions round Hudson's Bay, and also in the far
+ west&mdash;British Columbia and Alaska&mdash;there were dogs, more or less of
+ the Eskimo breed, trained by Eskimo or by Amerindians to drag the
+ sledges. In the months of December and January it is true that the
+ daylight in Arctic Canada (north of Lake Athapaska) became so short
+ that the sun at its greatest altitude only appeared for two or three
+ hours a short distance above the horizon. But there were
+ compensations. The brilliancy of the Aurora Borealis, even without the
+ assistance of the moon and the stars, made some amends for that
+ deficiency, for it was frequently so light all night that travellers
+ could see to read a very small print (Samuel Hearne). The importance
+ of these "Northern lights" must not be overlooked in forming an
+ opinion on the habitability of the far north in the "dark" winter
+ months. The display was frequent and brilliant.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Athapaskan Indians called this phenomenon <i>Edthin</i>, that is to
+ say, "reindeer". When the Aurora Borealis was particularly bright in
+ the sky they would say that deer were plentiful in that part of the
+ heavens. Their fancy in this respect was not quite so silly as one
+ might think. They had learnt from experience that the Aurora Borealis
+ was in some way connected with electricity, and experience had equally
+ shown them that the skin of the reindeer, if briskly stroked by the
+ hand on a dark night, would emit as many electric sparks as the back
+ of a cat. On the other hand, the Amerindians in the southern and more
+ temperate regions thought the Aurora Borealis was a vast concourse of
+ "spirits of the happy day" dancing in the clouds.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Thus there were no climatic reasons why, both in summer and in winter,
+ immense distances should not be quickly covered in Canada between the
+ Rocky Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. This is how a mere hundred of
+ white pioneers opened up Canada to the knowledge of the civilized
+ world far quicker than the same area could have been discovered in
+ Africa or Asia. Sometimes, for about a month, between the melting of
+ the snow and ice and the steady flowing of the rivers in the late
+ spring, or between the uncertain autumn of November and the confirmed
+ winter of December, there might be an interval of a few weeks in which
+ journeys had to be made on foot under conditions of great hardship,
+ through mud, swamp, and over sharp stones or slippery rocks.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The plains are covered with water from the melting of the snow so
+ suddenly, and our men suffer much, as they are continually on the
+ march, looking after Indians in every creek and little river. The
+ water is commonly knee deep, in some places up to the middle, and in
+ the morning is usually covered with ice, which makes it tedious and
+ even dangerous travelling. Some of our men lose the use of their legs
+ while still in the prime of life", wrote one eighteenth-century
+ pioneer, in the Canadian spring.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Severe as were the winter conditions of climate, the explorers were
+ just as willing to travel through the winter as the summer, because in
+ the winter they were spared the awful plague of mosquitoes and midges
+ which still renders summer and early-autumn travel throughout the
+ whole of Canada, from the United States borders on the south to the
+ Arctic Ocean on the north, a severe trial, and even an unbearable
+ degree of physical suffering.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-6-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-1"><u>1</u></a> The first Frenchmen visiting North America, and seeing
+ the caribou without their horns, thought they were a kind of wild ass.
+ The reindeer of Newfoundland is a sub-species peculiar to this
+ island.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-2"><u>2</u></a> <i>Homarus americanus</i>. The lobster of Newfoundland and the
+ coasts of North-east America is closely related to the common lobster
+ of British waters. These true lobsters resemble the freshwater
+ crayfish in having their foremost pair of legs modified into large,
+ unequal-sized claws. The European rock-lobster of the Mediterranean
+ and French coasts (the <i>langouste</i> of the French) has no large claws.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-3"><u>3</u></a> The musk ox, which is not an ox, but a creature about
+ midway in structure and affinities between cattle on the one hand and
+ sheep and goats on the other, is a large beast comparatively, being
+ the size of a small ox, but appearing very much larger than it is on
+ account of the extremely thick coat of hair and wool. Both sexes have
+ horns, and the horns, after meeting in the middle and making more or
+ less of a boss over the forehead, droop down at the sides of the
+ cheeks and then turn up with sharp points. The musk ox once ranged
+ right across the northern world, from England and Scandinavia, through
+ Germany, Russia, and Siberia, to Alaska and North America. Many
+ thousands of years ago, during one of the Glacial periods, it
+ inhabited southern England. At the present day it is extinct
+ everywhere, excepting in the eastern parts of Arctic America, not
+ going west of the Mackenzie River nor south of Labrador. It is also
+ found in Greenland.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-4"><u>4</u></a> <i>Mazama americana</i>, similar to, but quite distinct from,
+ the larger mule deer of British Columbia.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-5"><u>5</u></a> The prongbuck (<i>Antilocapra americana</i>) is not a true
+ antelope, though in outward appearance it resembles a large gazelle.
+ It was called "cabri" by the French Canadians.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-6"><u>6</u></a> "Bears make prodigious ravages in the brush and willows;
+ the plum trees, and every tree that bears fruit share the same fate.
+ The tops of the oaks are also very roughly handled, broken, and torn
+ down, to get the acorns. The havoc they commit is astonishing...."
+ &mdash;Alex. Henry, jun.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-7"><u>7</u></a> Nowhere in the world are there so many kinds of grouse as
+ in North America. In the more northern regions are several species of
+ ptarmigan or snow partridges (<i>Lagopus</i>), which turn white in winter,
+ and the spruce partridges (<i>Canachites</i>); in the more genial climate
+ of the great plains of eastern Canada and in the Far West the ruffled
+ grouse and hazel grouse (<i>Bonasa</i>), the sage cocks (<i>Centrocercus</i>),
+ the prairie hens (<i>Tympanuchus</i>), and the blue or pine grouse
+ (<i>Dendrapagus</i>).<br><br>
+
+ "To snare grouse requires no other process than making a few little
+ hedges across a creek, or a few short hedges projecting at right
+ angles from the side of an island of willows, which those birds are
+ found to frequent. Several openings must be left in each hedge, to
+ admit the birds to pass through, and in each of them a snare must be
+ set; so that when the grouse are hopping along the edge of the willows
+ to feed, which is their usual custom, some of them soon get into the
+ snares, where they are confined till they are taken out. I have caught
+ from three to ten grouse in a day by this simple contrivance, which
+ requires no further attendance than going round them night and
+ morning" (Hearne).
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-8"><u>8</u></a> Sometimes called <i>Amelanchier canadensis</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-9"><u>9</u></a> The south shore of Lake Superior, the whole of Lake
+ Michigan, the west shore of Lake Huron, and the south coasts of Lake
+ Erie and Lake Ontario are within the territories of the United
+ States.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-10"><u>10</u></a> A remarkable eighteenth-century pioneer who joined the
+ Indians when a boy and lived as one of them.
+</p>
+<a name="note-6-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#6-11"><u>11</u></a> The blue fox is the Arctic fox (<i>Canis lagopus</i>) in its
+ summer dress; the black fox is a beautiful variety or sub-species of
+ the common fox (<i>C. vulpes</i>); so also is the red or "cross" fox. There
+ is also common throughout the Canadian Dominion the pretty little kit
+ fox (<i>Canis velox</i>).
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0007"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER VII
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ The Amerindians and Eskimo: the Aborigines of British North America
+</h3>
+<p>
+ I have already attempted to describe in the first chapter the ancient
+ peopling of America from north-eastern Asia, but it might be useful if
+ I gave here some description of the Eskimo and Amerindian tribes of
+ the Canadian Dominion at the time of its gradual discovery by
+ Europeans, especially during the great explorations of the eighteenth
+ and early nineteenth centuries.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It is evident that the ESKIMO&mdash;who are quite distinct from the
+ Amerindians in physical type, language, customs, and industries&mdash;have
+ been for thousands of years the only inhabitants of Arctic America.
+ When the Norsemen came to the New World they seem to have met with
+ Eskimo as far south as New England, but in more recent times the
+ Eskimo have only been found inhabiting the extreme north and
+ north-east: in Greenland, on the Labrador coast, on Baffin's Land, and
+ along the Arctic coast of the North-American continent, between the
+ Coppermine River and the westernmost extremity of Alaska, as well as
+ on the opposite islands and promontories of Asia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Their name for themselves as a people is usually "Innuit" (in
+ Greenland, "Karalit"). Eskimo is a corruption of <i>Eskimantsik</i>, a
+ northern Algonkin word meaning "eaters of raw flesh". Although their
+ geographical range extends over a distance of about three thousand
+ five hundred miles&mdash;from north-easternmost Asia to the east coast of
+ Greenland&mdash;the difference in their dialects is little more than that
+ between French and Italian; whereas the difference between the speech
+ of one Amerindian tribe and another&mdash;even where they belong to the
+ same language group&mdash;is very great&mdash;not less than that between German
+ and Latin, or English and French, or even between Russian and
+ Hindustani. This fact&mdash;of the widespread Eskimo language&mdash;makes some
+ authorities suppose that the presence of the Eskimo in Arctic America
+ cannot be such a very ancient event as, from other evidence, one might
+ believe. Perhaps the bold travelling habits of the Eskimo&mdash;which makes
+ them range over vast distances of ice and snow when hunting seals,
+ walruses, whales, musk ox, or reindeer&mdash;enables them to keep in touch
+ with their far-away relations.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The canoes or <i>kayaks</i> in which they travel (first described by the
+ Norsemen in the tenth century) are made out of the hide of the seal or
+ walrus. The leather is stretched over a framework constructed from
+ driftwood or whales' bones. There is a hole in the middle for the man
+ or woman to insert their legs. This hole they fill up with their
+ bodies. If the canoe capsizes, the Eskimo cannot fall out, but bobs up
+ immediately. He and the canoe are really "one-and-indivisible" when he
+ is navigating the seas and lakes, plying deftly a large paddle.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In regard to food they were certainly not particular or squeamish.
+ They loved best of all whales' blubber, or to drink the fishy-tasting
+ oil from bodies of whales, seals, or walruses. Besides the meat of
+ Polar bears and of any fur animals they could catch, or the musky beef
+ of the musk ox, they devoured eagerly sea birds' eggs, Iceland moss,
+ and even the parasitic insects of their own heads and bodies! Hearne
+ relates that they will eat with a relish whole handfuls of maggots
+ that have been produced in meat by the eggs of the bluebottle fly! On
+ the other hand, they held cannibalism in horror, whereas for two-two's
+ their Amerindian neighbours on the west and south would eat human
+ flesh without repugnance.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Eskimo, though occasionally tall, are as a rule stumpy and
+ thickset, with very small hands and feet, broad faces, and projecting
+ cheekbones, a narrow nose without the aquiline bridge of the
+ Amerindian, slanting narrow eyes, and long heads containing large
+ well-developed brains. In disposition the Eskimo are nearly always
+ merry, affectionate to one another, honest, and modest. Modern
+ travellers in the Arctic regions give them invariably a high
+ character; but Frobisher, Davis, and the explorers of the sixteenth
+ and seventeenth centuries accused them of treachery and an inclination
+ to steal. Iron in any shape or form they could hardly resist taking.
+ Moreover, if they are the same people as the Skraellings of the Norse
+ traditions they must have been of a fiercer disposition a thousand
+ years ago.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians who inhabited (more or less) the rest of the Canadian
+ Dominion, and the whole remainder of the New World, differed in
+ physical appearance from the Eskimo mainly in being taller and better
+ proportioned, with shorter and rounder heads, larger, fuller eyes, a
+ bigger nose, and a handsomer personal appearance. The skin colour, as
+ a rule, was darker and browner than the greyish- or pinkish-yellow of
+ the Eskimo.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The various human types that went to form the Amerindian race (beside
+ the Eskimo element in them) seem to have entered north-west America
+ from Asia, and first to have peopled the Pacific slopes of the Rocky
+ Mountains, after which they wandered farther and farther south till
+ they got into a warmer climate. Then they crossed the Rocky Mountains
+ and peopled the centre and east of what is now the United States. As
+ they pushed their way north up the valleys of the great rivers, they
+ no doubt killed, mingled with, or pushed back the Eskimo. At last
+ their northernmost extensions reached to the Mackenzie River, the
+ vicinity of Hudson's Bay, Labrador, and Newfoundland. But in all the
+ middle, west, and <a name="p156"></a>even east of Canada they seem to have been
+ <i>relatively recent arrivals</i>,<a name="7-1"></a><a href="#note-7-1"><small>[1]</small></a> not to have inhabited the country for
+ a great many centuries before the white man came, and all their
+ recorded and legendary movements in North America have been from the
+ south-west towards the north-east (after they had got across the Rocky
+ Mountains). The few cultivated plants they had, such as maize (Indian
+ corn), tobacco, and pumpkins, they brought with them or received from
+ the south.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The only domestic animal possessed by either Eskimo or Amerindian was
+ the dog. We are most of us by now familiar with the type of the Eskimo
+ dog&mdash;a large, wolf-like animal with prick ears and a bushy tail curled
+ over its back. In this carriage of the tail the Eskimo and most other
+ true dogs differ from wolves, with whom the tail droops between the
+ hind quarters. But there is a small wild American wolf&mdash;the
+ coyote&mdash;which carries its tail more upright, like that of the true
+ dog; and the coyote seems indeed an intermediate form between the wolf
+ and the original wild dog. Most of the domestic dogs of the
+ Amerindians<a name="7-2"></a><a href="#note-7-2"><small>[2]</small></a> (as distinguished from those of the Eskimo) seem to
+ have been derived from the coyote or small wolf of central North
+ America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the Pacific coast there were other types of domestic dog,
+ resembling greatly breeds that are found in eastern Asia and the
+ Pacific islands. Some of these were naked, and others grew silky hair,
+ which was woven by the natives into cloth (see p. <a href="#p323">323</a>). The Eskimo dog
+ almost certainly has been derived from northern Asia, and is closely
+ related to the well-known Chinese breed&mdash;the chow dog&mdash;and the
+ domestic breeds of ancient Europe. Even the commonest type of house
+ dog in the Roman Empire was very much like an Eskimo or a chow in
+ appearance. There is a true wild dog, however, in the Yukon province
+ of the Canadian Dominion and in Alaska&mdash;<i>Canis pambasileus</i>&mdash;a dark,
+ blackish-brown in colour. This may have been a parent of the Eskimo
+ dog, but it is also doubtless closely allied to the original (extinct)
+ wild dog of northern Asia, from which the chow and many other breeds
+ are directly descended. The Eskimo never under ordinary circumstances
+ ate their dogs; on the other hand, the Amerindians were fond of dog's
+ flesh, and in some tribes simply bred dogs for the table.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When Europeans first reached America all these Amerindian tribes, and
+ also the Eskimo, were still, for all practical purposes, in the Stone
+ Age. Those who lived in the north had discovered the use of copper and
+ had shaped for themselves knives and spear blades out of copper, but
+ not even this metal was in use to any great extent, and for the most
+ part they relied, down to the end of the eighteenth century, for their
+ implements and weapons, on polished and sharpened stones, on deer's
+ antlers, buffalo horns, sticks, sharp shells, beavers' incisor
+ teeth,<a name="7-3"></a><a href="#note-7-3"><small>[3]</small></a> the claws or spines of crustaceans, flints, and suchlike
+ substances&mdash;in short, they were leading the same life and using almost
+ exactly the same tools as the long-since-vanished hunter races of
+ Europe of five thousand to one hundred thousand years ago&mdash;the people
+ who pursued the mammoth, the bison, the Irish "elk", and the other
+ great beasts of prehistoric Europe. Indeed, North America represented
+ to some extent, as late as a hundred years ago, what Europe must have
+ looked like in the days of palæolithic Man.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ The AMERINDIANS of the Canadian Dominion (when the country first
+ became known to Europeans) belonged to the following groups and
+ tribes. The order of enumeration begins in the east and proceeds
+ westwards. I have already mentioned the peculiar <i>Beothiks</i> of
+ Newfoundland.<a name="7-4"></a><a href="#note-7-4"><small>[4]</small></a> In Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick,
+ and the Gaspé Peninsula there were the <i>Mikmak</i> Indians belonging to
+ the widespread ALGONKIN family or stock. West and south of the
+ Mikmaks, in New Brunswick and along the borders of New England, were
+ other tribes of the Algonkin group: the Etchemins, Abenakis,
+ Tarratines, Penobscots, <i>Mohikans</i>, and Adirondacks. North of these,
+ in the eastern part of the Quebec province, on either side of the Gulf
+ of St. Lawrence, were the <i>Montagnais</i>. This name, though it looks
+ like a French word meaning "mountaineers", was also spellt Montagnet,
+ and in various other ways, showing that it was originally a native
+ name, pronounced Montanyé. The Montagnais in various clans extended
+ northwards across Labrador until they touched the Eskimo, with whom
+ they constantly fought. The interior of Labrador was inhabited by
+ another Algonkin tribe, the <i>Naskwapi</i>, living in a state of rude
+ <a name="p159"></a>savagery. The <i>Algonkins</i> proper, whose tribe gave their name to the
+ whole stock because the French first became acquainted with them as a
+ type, dwelt in the vicinity of Montreal, Lake Ontario, and the valley
+ of the St. Lawrence. In upper Canada, about the great lakes and the
+ St. Lawrence valley, were the Chippeways, or <i>Ojibwés</i>, and the
+ Ottawas. West and north of Lake Michigan were the Miamis, the
+ Potawátomis, and the Fox Indians (the Saks or Sawkis). Between Lake
+ Winnipeg and Lake Superior were the <i>Cheyennes</i> (Shians); between
+ North and South Saskatchewan, the <i>Blackfeet</i> or Siksika Indians
+ (sections of which were also called Bloods, Paigans, Piegans, &amp;c).
+ North of Lake Winnipeg, as far as Lake Athabaska, and almost from the
+ Rocky Mountains to the shores of Hudson's Bay, were the widespread
+ tribe of the <i>Kris</i>, or <i>Knistino</i>.<a name="7-5"></a><a href="#note-7-5"><small>[5]</small></a> The Gros Ventres or Big
+ Bellies&mdash;properly called <i>Atsina</i>&mdash;inhabited the southern part of the
+ middle west, between the Saskatchewan and the Missouri basins; and the
+ Monsoni or Maskegon were found in eastern Rupert Land.
+</p>
+<p>
+ All the above-enumerated tribes, except the Beothik indigenes of
+ Newfoundland, belong to the great and widespread ALGONKIN group.
+ (Algonkin is a word derived from the "Algommequin" of Champlain.) In
+ the valley of the St. Lawrence the French first encountered those
+ Indians whom they called <i>Huron</i>. This was a French word meaning
+ "crested", because these people wore their hair in a great crest over
+ the top and back of the head, which reminded the French of the
+ appearance of a wild boar (<i>Hure</i>). The real name of the Hurons, who
+ dwelt at a later date between Lakes Huron, Erie, Ontario, and the
+ neighbourhood of Montreal, was <i>Waiandot</i> (Wyandot); but they went
+ under a variety of other names, according to the clans, such as the
+ Eries and the Atiwándoran or Neutral Nation. They were also called the
+ "Good" <a name="p160"></a>Iroquois, to distinguish them from the six other nations, the
+ IROQUOIS proper of the French Canadians, who signalized themselves by
+ fiendish and frightful warfare against the French and the various
+ tribes of Algonkin Indians. The Hurons and the rest of the six tribes
+ grouped under the name of IROQUOIS <a name="7-6"></a><a href="#note-7-6"><small>[6]</small></a> were of the same stock
+ originally, forming a separate group like that of the Algonkins,
+ though they are supposed to be related distantly to the Dakota or
+ Siou. Amongst the "Six Nations" or tribes banded together in warfare
+ and policy were the celebrated "Mohawks" who dwelt on the southern
+ borders of the St. Lawrence basin and near Lake Champlain. As the
+ others of the six nations (including the Senekas and Onondagas)
+ inhabited the eastern United States, well outside the limits of
+ Canada, they need not be referred to here.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Between the South Saskatchewan, the Rocky Mountains, and Lake
+ Superior, nearly outside the limits of the Canadian Dominion, was the
+ great DAKOTA, or Siou group,<a name="7-7"></a><a href="#note-7-7"><small>[7]</small></a> divided into the distinct tribe of
+ <i>Assiniboin</i> or "Stone" Indians (because they used hot stones in
+ cooking), the "Crows" or Absaroka, the Hidatsa or Minitari (also
+ called Big Bellies, like the quite distinct Atsina of the Algonkin
+ family), the Menómini (the most north-eastern amongst the Siouan
+ tribes, and the first met with by the British and French Canadians
+ south-west of Lake Superior), the Winnebagos on the southern borders
+ of Manitoba, the Yanktons or Yanktonnais, the "<i>Santi Siou</i>"
+ proper&mdash;generally calling themselves <i>Dakota</i> or Mdewakanton&mdash;and the
+ "Tétons" along the northern Dakota frontier and into the Rocky
+ Mountains&mdash;also known as <i>Blackfeet</i>, Sans Arcs ("without bows"),
+ "Two-kettles", "Brulés" or "Burnt" Indians, &amp;c.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Next must be mentioned the very important and widespread ATHAPASKAN or
+ Déné (Tinné) group, named after Lake Athapaska (or Athabaska), because
+ that sheet of water became a great rallying place for these northern
+ tribes. The Athapaskan group of Indians indeed represents the
+ "Northern Indians" of the Hudson's Bay Company's reports and
+ explorers. They drew a great distinction between the Northern Indians
+ (the Athapaskan tribes) and the Southern Indians, which included all
+ the other Amerindian groups dwelling to the south of the Athapaskan
+ domain. But although nowadays so much associated with the far north
+ and north-west of America, the Athabaskan group evidently came from a
+ region much farther south, and has been cut in half by other tribal
+ movements, wars, and migrations; for the Athapaskan family also
+ includes the Apaches and the Navaho of the south-western portions of
+ the United States and the adjoining territories of Mexico. The
+ northern and southern divisions of the Athapaskan group are separated
+ by something like twelve hundred miles. The following are the
+ principal tribes into which the Northern ATHAPASKAN group was divided
+ at the time of the first explorations of the north-west. There were
+ the <i>Chippewayan</i> Indians<a name="7-8"></a><a href="#note-7-8"><small>[8]</small></a> round about Lake Athapaska, and the
+ Caribou Eaters or Ethen-eldeli between Lake Athapaska and Reindeer
+ Lake. The "<i>Slaves</i>", or Slave Indians of the Great Slave Lake and the
+ upper Mackenzie River; the Beaver and Sarsi Indians (known also as the
+ Tsékehn), about the Peace River and the northern part of Alberta
+ province; and the <i>Yellow Knives</i>, or Totsan-ottine (so called from
+ their being found with light-coloured copper knives when first
+ discovered by Europeans), north-east of the Great Slave Lake and along
+ the Coppermine River: the <i>Dogribs</i> between the Great Slave Lake and
+ Great Bear Lake, perhaps (except in Alaska) the most northern
+ extension of the Amerindian type towards the Arctic regions. West of
+ the Dogribs dwelt&mdash;and still dwell&mdash;the interesting tribe of <i>Hare</i>
+ Indians, or Kawcho-Tinné. They extend northwards to the Anderson
+ River, on the verge of the Arctic Ocean. West of the lower Mackenzie
+ River, and stretching thence to the Porcupine or Yukon Rivers, are the
+ Squinting Indians ("Loucheux", or Kuchin), who in former times were
+ met with much farther to the south-east than at the present day.
+ Finally, there are the Nahani Indians, who have penetrated through the
+ Rocky Mountains to the Stikine River, reaching thus quite close to the
+ Pacific Ocean. This penetration northwards of groups of Athapaskan
+ Indians into districts inhabited for the most part by Amerindian
+ tribes differing widely in language and customs from all those <i>east</i>
+ of the Rocky Mountains, explains the way in which stories of the great
+ western sea&mdash;the Pacific&mdash;reached, by means of trading intercourse,
+ those Amerindian tribes of the middle-west and upper Canada, and so
+ stirred up the French and English explorers of the seventeenth and
+ eighteenth centuries to make the marvellous journeys which are
+ recounted in this book.
+</p>
+<p>
+ <i>West</i> of the Rocky Mountains, in British Columbia and Vancouver
+ Island (besides southern Alaska), the Amerindian tribes form the
+ N&#363;tka-Columbian group, which is markedly distinct from the
+ Amerindians <i>east</i> of the Rocky Mountains, from whom they differ
+ <i>widely</i> in language, type, and culture. They are divided into quite a
+ large number of small separate groups&mdash;the Wakashan or <i>N&#363;tkas</i> of
+ Vancouver Island and south-western British Columbia, the Shahaptian or
+ "Nez percés" Indians of the Columbia basin, and the Chin&#363;ks of
+ the lower Columbia River, the <i>Salishan</i> or "Flathead" group
+ (including the Atn&#257;s) of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers and central
+ British Columbia; and the <i>Haida</i> Indians of Queen Charlotte's Islands
+ and the north-west coast of British Columbia. It must be remembered
+ that these different groups are only based on the relationships of
+ their component tribes in language or dialect, and do not always imply
+ that the tribes belonging to them had the same customs and
+ dispositions; but they were generally able to communicate with one
+ another in speech, whereas if they met the Indians of another group
+ the language might be so totally different that they could only
+ communicate by means of signs.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0008"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc08.jpg" width="274" height="425"
+alt="An Amerindian Type of British Columbia">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>AN AMERINDIAN TYPE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA</h5>
+<p>
+ Sign and gesture language<a name="7-9"></a><a href="#note-7-9"><small>[9]</small></a> was extraordinarily developed amongst all
+ the Amerindian races from the Arctic Ocean to the Antarctic. Not only
+ that, but they were quick to understand the purpose of pictures. They
+ could draw maps in the sand to explain the geography of their country,
+ and Europeans could often make them understand what they required by
+ rough drawings. They themselves related many events by means of a
+ picture language&mdash;the beginning of hieroglyphics; and in the
+ south-eastern parts of Canada, as in the United States, these signs or
+ pictographs were recorded in bead-shell work&mdash;the celebrated "wampum".
+</p>
+<p>
+ All these tribes, of course, varied very much in personal appearance,
+ though not in disposition. The vanished <a name="p164"></a>Beothiks of Newfoundland are
+ described as having been a good-looking tall people, with large black
+ eyes and a skin so light, when washed free from dirt or paint, that
+ the Portuguese compared them to gipsies; and the writer of Fabian's
+ <i>Chronicle</i>, who saw two of them (brought back by Cabot) at Henry
+ VII's Court, in 1499, took them for Englishmen when they were dressed
+ in English clothes. It was these people&mdash;subsequently killed out by
+ the British settlers on Newfoundland&mdash;who originated the term "Red
+ Indians", or, in French, <i>Peaux Rouges</i>, because their skins, like
+ those of so many other Amerindians, were painted with red ochre.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Many of the British Columbian peoples made themselves artificially
+ ugly by flattening the sides of the head. To press the skull whilst it
+ was soft, they squeezed the heads of their children between boards;
+ others, such as the warlike tribes of the upper Missouri, had a
+ passion for submitting themselves to mutilation by the medicine man of
+ the clan, in order to please the sun god. Such would submit to large
+ strips being cut from the flesh of their shoulders, arms, or legs, or
+ having their cheeks slashed. The result, of course, was to leave their
+ limbs and features horribly scarred when they healed up. In some
+ tribes, however, a young man could not obtain&mdash;or retain&mdash;a wife
+ unless he had shown his bravery by submitting to this mutilation.
+ Women often cut off one or more joints of their fingers to show their
+ grief for the death of children.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In some tribes, especially of the far north-west and of the Rocky
+ Mountains, the personal habits of men and women, or of the women only,
+ were so filthy, and their dislike to bathing so pronounced, that they
+ became objects of loathing to white men; in other tribes personal
+ cleanliness was highly esteemed, especially on the seacoast of British
+ Columbia or along the banks of the great rivers. Usually the men were
+ better looking and better developed than the women&mdash;for one reason,
+ because they were better fed.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here is a description by PETER GRANT&mdash;a pioneer of the North-West
+ Company&mdash;of the Ojibwé Indians dwelling near the east end of Lake
+ Superior at the beginning of the nineteenth century:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their complexion is a whitish cast of copper colour, their hair
+ black, long, straight, and of a very strong texture. The young men
+ allow several locks of the hair to fall down over the face, ornamented
+ with ribbons, silver brooches, &amp;c. They gather up another lock from
+ behind the head into a small clump, and wrap it up with very thin
+ plates of silver, in which they fix the tail feathers of the eagle or
+ any other favourite bird with the wearing of which they have
+ distinguished themselves in war. They are very careful with their
+ hair, anointing it with bears' oil, which gives it a smooth and glossy
+ appearance. The teeth are of a beautiful ivory white, the cheeks
+ rather high and prominent, the eyes black and lively. Their
+ countenances are generally pleasant, and they might often be called
+ handsome. The ears are pierced in infancy, and the lobe is extended to
+ an unnatural size by suspending lead or any other heavy metal from the
+ outer rim, which in time brings them down near the shoulder. The nose
+ ornaments hang down half an inch, and nearly touch the upper lip.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The men are bold, manly, and graceful in their gait, always carrying
+ their bodies erect and easy. On the other hand, the women, by walking
+ with the toes of their feet turned inwards, have a disagreeable and
+ lame appearance. The men are specially fond of painting their faces
+ and bodies with vermilion, white and blue clay, charcoal or soot mixed
+ with a little grease or water. With this colour they daub the body,
+ legs, and thighs in bars and patches, and take the greatest pains
+ about painting the face, usually with red and black. Their skins are
+ generally tattooed <a name="p166"></a>with figures representing the sun, stars, eagles,
+ serpents, &amp;c, especially objects which have appeared to them in their
+ dreams. The women's faces are much less painted, usually a spot of red
+ on each cheek and a circle of red round the roots of the hair or
+ eyes."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here is a summary of what Alexander Henry, sen., wrote of the <i>Kri</i> or
+ <i>Knistino</i> Indians of Lake Athabaska about 1770:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The men in general tattoo their bodies and arms very much. The women
+ confine this ornamentation to the chin, having three perpendicular
+ lines from the middle of the chin to the lip, and one or more running
+ on each side, nearly parallel with the corner of the mouth. Their
+ dress consists of leather; that of the men is a pair of leggings,
+ reaching up to the hip and fastened to the girdle. Between the legs is
+ passed a strip of woollen stuff, but when this cannot be procured they
+ use a piece of dressed leather about nine inches broad and four feet
+ long, whose ends are drawn through the girdle and hang down before and
+ behind about a foot.... The shirt is of soft dressed leather, either
+ from the prong-buck or young red deer, close about the neck and
+ hanging to the middle of the thigh; the sleeves are of the same, loose
+ and open under the arms to the elbows, but thence to the wrist sewed
+ tight. The cap is commonly a piece of leather, or skin with the hair
+ on, shaped to fit the head, and tied under the chin; the top is
+ usually decorated with feathers or other ornament. Shoes are made of
+ buffalo (bison) hide, dressed in the hair, and mittens of the same.
+ Over the whole a buffalo robe is thrown, which serves as covering day
+ and night.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Such is their common dress, but on particular occasions they appear
+ to greater advantage, having their cap, shirt, leggings, and shoes
+ perfectly clean and white, trimmed with porcupine quills and other
+ ingenious work of their women, who are supposed to be the most skilful
+ hands in the country at decorations of this kind. The women's dress
+ consists of the same materials as the men's. Their leggings do not
+ reach above the knee, and are gathered below that joint; their shoes
+ always lack decoration. The shift or body garment reaches down to the
+ calf, where it is generally fringed and trimmed with quillwork; the
+ upper part is fastened over the shoulders by strips of leather; a flap
+ or cape hangs down about a foot before and behind, and is ornamented
+ with quillwork and fringe. This covering is quite loose, but tied
+ around the waist with a belt of stiff parchment fastened on the side,
+ where also some ornaments are suspended. The sleeves are detached from
+ the body garment; from the wrist to the elbow they are sewed, but
+ thence to the shoulder they are open underneath and drawn up to the
+ neck, where they are fastened across the breast and back.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their ornaments are two or three coils of brass wire twisted around
+ the rim of each ear, in which incisions are made for that purpose;
+ blue beads, brass rings, quillwork, and fringe occasionally answer.
+ Vermilion (a red clay) is much used by the women to paint the face.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their hair is generally parted on the crown and fastened behind each
+ ear in large knots, from which are suspended bunches of blue beads or
+ other ingenious work of their own. The men adjust their hair in
+ various forms; some have it parted on top and tied in a tail on each
+ side, while others make one long <i>queue</i> which hangs down behind, and
+ around which is twisted a strip of otter skin or dressed buffalo
+ entrails. This tail is frequently increased in thickness and length by
+ adding false hair, but others allow it to flow loose naturally. Combs
+ are seldom used by the men, and they never smear the hair with grease,
+ but red earth is sometimes put upon it. White earth daubed over the
+ hair generally denotes mourning. The young men sometimes have a bunch
+ of hair on the crown, about the size of a small teacup, and nearly in
+ the shape of that vessel upside down, to which they fasten various
+ ornaments of feathers, quillwork, ermine tails, &amp;c. Red and white
+ earth and charcoal are much used in their toilets; with the former
+ they usually daub their robes and other garments, some red and others
+ white. The women comb their hair and use grease on it."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Slave Indians (a tribe of the Athapaskan family) tattooed their
+ cheeks with charcoal inserted under the skin, also daubed their
+ bodies, robes, and garments profusely with red earth (generally
+ called, in the text of travellers, vermilion), but they had another
+ favourite pigment, procured from the regions on the west of the Rocky
+ Mountains, some kind of graphite, like the lead of lead pencils. With
+ this they marked their faces in black lead after red earth has been
+ applied, and thus gave themselves a ghastly and savage appearance.
+ Their dress consists of a leather shirt trimmed with human hair and
+ porcupine-quill work, and leggings of leather. Their shoes and caps
+ were made of bison leather, with the hair outside. Their necklaces
+ were strings of grizzly-bear claws, and a "buffalo" robe was thrown
+ over all occasionally. Some of them occasionally had quite light
+ skins&mdash;when free of dirt or paint&mdash;and grey eyes, and their hair,
+ instead of being black, was greyish-brown. These last features (grey
+ eyes and brown hair) characterized many individuals among the northern
+ British-Columbian tribes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Naskwapis of inland Labrador&mdash;allied in speech to the Kris and the
+ Montagnais, but in blood to the Eskimo&mdash;are described as above the
+ middle size in height, slender, and long-legged, their cheeks being
+ very prominent, eyes black, nose rather flat, mouth large, lips thick,
+ teeth white, hair rough and black, and the complexion a yellowish
+ "frog" colour. They were dressed in elaborate and warm garments made
+ of reindeer skin. The ordinary covering for the head of the men was
+ the skin of a bear's head. "Thus accoutred, with the addition of a
+ bow and quiver, a stone axe, and a bone knife, a Naskwapi man
+ possessed no small degree of pride and self-importance" (James
+ M'Kenzie).
+</p>
+<p>
+ The handsomest tribes of Amerindians encountered by the Canadian
+ pioneers seem to have been the Ojibwés of Lake Superior, the Iroquois
+ south of the St. Lawrence, and the Mandans of the upper Missouri.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Until well on in the nineteenth century none of the Canadian
+ Amerindians were particular about wearing clothes if the weather was
+ hot. The men, especially, were either quite oblivious of what was
+ seemly in clothing (except perhaps the Iroquois) or thought it
+ necessary to go naked into battle, or to remove all clothing before
+ taking part in religious ceremonies.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It is commonly supposed that the Red Man was a rather glum person,
+ seldom seen to smile and averse to showing any emotion. That is not
+ the impression one derives from the many pen portraits of Amerindians
+ in the journals of the great pioneers. Here, on the contrary, you see
+ the natives laughing, smiling, kissing eagerly their wives and
+ children after an absence, displaying exuberant and cordial friendship
+ towards the white man who treated them well, having love quarrels and
+ fits of raging jealousy, moods of deep remorse after a fight, touching
+ devotion to their comrades or chiefs, and above all to their children.
+ They are most emotional, indeed, and, apart from this chapter you will
+ find frequent descriptions of how they wept at times over the
+ remembrance of their dead relations and friends.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hearne remarked, in 1772, that when two parties of Athapaska Indians
+ met, the ceremonies which passed between them were very formal. They
+ would advance within twenty or thirty yards of each other, make a full
+ halt, and then sit or lie down on the ground, not speaking for some
+ minutes. At length one of them, generally an elderly man, broke
+ silence by acquainting the other party with every misfortune that had
+ befallen him and his companions from the last time they had seen or
+ heard of each other, including all deaths and other calamities which
+ had happened to any other Indians during the same period. When he
+ finished, another orator, belonging to the other party, related in
+ like manner all the bad news that had come to <i>his</i> knowledge. If
+ these orations contained any news that in the least affected either
+ party, it would not be long before some of them began to sigh and sob,
+ and soon after to break out into a loud cry, which was generally
+ accompanied by most of the grown persons of both sexes; and sometimes
+ it was common to hear them all&mdash;men, women, and children&mdash;joining in
+ one universal howl. When the first transports of grief had subsided,
+ they advanced by degrees, and both parties mixed with each other, the
+ men with the men, the women with the women. They then passed round
+ tobacco pipes very freely, and the conversation became general. They
+ had now nothing but good news left to tell, and in less than half an
+ hour probably nothing but smiles and cheerfulness would be seen on
+ every face.
+</p>
+<p>
+ One direction in which the Amerindians did not shine was in their
+ treatment of women. This perhaps was worse than in other uncivilized
+ races. Woman was very badly used, except perhaps for the first year of
+ courtship and marriage. Courtship began by the young man throwing
+ sticks at the girl<a name="7-10"></a><a href="#note-7-10"><small>[10]</small></a> who pleased his fancy, and if she responded he
+ asked her in marriage. But not long after she had become a mother she
+ sank into the position of a household drudge and beast of burden. For
+ example, amongst the Beaver Indians, an Athapaskan tribe of the <a name="p171"></a>far
+ north-west, it is related by Alexander Mackenzie that the women are
+ permanently crippled and injured in physique by the hardships they
+ have to undergo. "Having few dogs for transport in that country, the
+ women alone perform that labour which is allotted to beasts of burden
+ in other countries. It is not uncommon whilst the men carry nothing
+ but a gun, that their wives and daughters follow with such weighty
+ burdens that if they lay them down they cannot replace them; nor will
+ the men deign to perform the service of hoisting them on to their
+ backs. So that during their journeys they are frequently obliged to
+ lean against a tree for a small degree of temporary relief. When they
+ arrive at the place which their tyrants have chosen for their
+ encampment, they arrange the tent in a few minutes by forming a curve
+ of poles meeting at the top and expanding into a circle of twelve or
+ fifteen feet in diameter at the bottom, covered with dressed skins of
+ the moose sewn together. During these preparations the men sit down
+ quietly to the enjoyment of their pipes, if they happen to have any
+ tobacco."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Among the Ojibwé and Huron Indians of the Great Lakes the men
+ sometimes obliged their wives to bring up and nourish young bears
+ instead of their own children, so that the bears might eventually be
+ fattened for eating. If food was scarce, the women went without before
+ even the male slaves of the tribe were unprovided with food. Women
+ might never eat in the society of males, not even if these males were
+ slaves or prisoners of war. If food was very scarce, the husband as
+ likely as not killed and ate a wife; perhaps did this before slaying
+ and eating a valuable dog. (On the other hand, Mackenzie instances the
+ case of a woman among the Slave Indians who, in a winter of great
+ scarcity, managed to kill and devour her husband and several
+ relations.) So terrible was the ill-treatment of the women in some
+ tribes that these wretched beings sometimes committed suicide to end
+ their tortures. Even in this, however, they were not let off lightly,
+ for the Siou men invented as a tenet of their religion the saying that
+ "Women who hang themselves are the most miserable of all wretches in
+ the other world".
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the other hand, the kind treatment of children by fathers as well
+ as mothers is an "Indian" trait commented on by writer after writer.
+ Here is a typical description by Alexander Henry the Elder, concerning
+ the children of the Ojibwé tribe:
+</p>
+<p>
+ "As soon as the boys begin to run about, they are provided with bows
+ and arrows, and acquire, as it were 'by instinct', an astonishing
+ dexterity in shooting birds, squirrels, butterflies, &amp;c. Hunting in
+ miniature may be justly said to comprise the whole of their education
+ and childish diversion. Such as excel in this kind of exercise are
+ sure of being particularly distinguished by their parents, and seldom
+ punished for any misbehaviour, but, on the contrary, indulged in every
+ degree of excess and caprice. I have often seen grown-up boys of this
+ description, when punished for some serious fault, strike their father
+ and spit in his face, calling him 'bad dog', or 'old woman', and,
+ sometimes, carrying their insolence so far as to threaten to stab or
+ shoot him, and, what is rather singular, these too-indulgent parents
+ seem to encourage such unnatural liberties, and even glory in such
+ conduct from their favourite children. I heard them boast of having
+ sons who promised at an early age to inherit such bold and independent
+ sentiments.... Children of nine or ten years of age not only enjoy
+ the confidence of the men, but are generally considered as companions
+ and very deliberately join in their conversations."
+</p>
+<p>
+ When death overtook anybody the grief of the female relations was
+ carried to great excess. They not only cut their hair, cried and
+ howled, but they would sometimes, with the utmost deliberation,
+ employ some sharp instrument to separate the nail from the finger and
+ then force back the flesh beyond the first joint, which they
+ immediately amputated. "Many of the old women have so often repeated
+ this ceremony that they have not a complete finger remaining on either
+ hand" (Mackenzie).
+</p>
+<a name="image-0009"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc09.jpg" width="281" height="450"
+alt="Caribou Swimming a River">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>CARIBOU SWIMMING A RIVER</h5>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians of North America were religious and superstitious, and
+ had a firm faith in a world of spiritual agencies within or outside
+ the material world around us. Most of them believed in the existence
+ of "fairies",&mdash;woodland, earth, mountain, or water spirits&mdash;whom they
+ declared they could see from time to time in human semblance. Or such
+ spirit or demi-god might assume for a time or permanently the form of
+ an animal. To all such spirits of earth, air, and water, or to the
+ sacred animals they inhabited, sacrifices would be offered and prayers
+ made. Great importance was attributed to dreams and visions. They
+ accustomed themselves to make long fasts, so that they might become
+ light-headed and see visions, or hear spirit voices in a trance. To
+ prepare their minds for this state they would go four or five days
+ without food, and even abstain from drinking.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Undoubtedly their "medicine men" developed great mesmeric powers, and
+ this force, combined with rather clumsy juggling and ventriloquism,
+ enabled them to perform a semblance of "miracles". The Iroquois
+ offered much opposition to Christianity, thinking it would tame their
+ warriors too quickly and affect their national independence; but by
+ the greater part of the Amerindians the message of the Gospel brought
+ by the French priests was eagerly received, and the converts became
+ many and most sincere. Their reverence for the missionaries and belief
+ in them was increased when they saw how effectually they were able to
+ protect them from too-rapacious white adventurers, fierce soldiers,
+ and unscrupulous traders.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Miamis of Lake Michigan held the symbol of the cross in great
+ respect. A young Frenchman who was trading with them got into a
+ passion and drew his sword to avenge himself for a theft committed on
+ his goods. The Miama chieftain, to appease him, showed him the cross,
+ which was planted in the ground at the end of his lodge, and said to
+ him: "Behold the tree of the Black Gown; he teaches us to pray and not
+ to lose our temper,"&mdash;of course, referring to the missionary in the
+ black gown who had been amongst them. Before the cross was planted
+ here these Miamis kept in their houses one or more bogies, to which
+ they appealed in times of distress or sickness. One of these was the
+ skull of the bison with its horns. Another was the skin of the bear
+ raised on a pole in the middle of the hut and retaining the head,
+ which was usually painted green. The women sometimes died of terror
+ from the stories told them by the men about these idols, and the
+ Jesuits did a great deal of good by getting them abolished in many
+ places.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Supreme Being of the Eskimos was a goddess rather than a god: a
+ mother of all things who lived under the sea. On the other hand, most
+ of the Amerindian tribes believed in one great God of the Sky&mdash;Manito,
+ as He was called by the peoples of Algonkin stock, Nainubushan by the
+ Siou and their kindred. This Being was usually kindly disposed towards
+ man; but they also (in most cases) believed in a <i>bad</i> Manito, who was
+ responsible for most of the harm in the world. But sometimes the Great
+ Manito was capricious, or apparently made many mistakes which he had
+ afterwards to rectify. Thus the Siou tribes of Assiniboia believed
+ that the Supreme Being (whom they called Eth-tom-é) first created
+ mankind and all living things, and then, through some oversight or
+ mistake, caused a great flood to cover the earth's surface. So in a
+ hurry he was obliged to make a very large canoe of twigs and
+ branches, and into this he put a pair of every kind of bird and beast,
+ besides a family of human beings, who were thus saved from drowning,
+ and began the world afresh when the waters subsided. This legend was
+ something like the story of Noah's ark, but seems in some form or
+ another to have existed in the mind of all the North-American peoples
+ before the arrival of Christian missionaries. Much the same story was
+ told by the Ojibwés about the Great Hare-God, Nainiboju.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Siou and the Ojibwé (and other tribes also) believed that after
+ death the soul lay for a time in a trance, and then found itself
+ floating towards a River which must be crossed. Beyond the River lay
+ the Happy Hunting Grounds, the Elysian fields; but to oppose the weary
+ soul anxious to reach this paradise there ramped on the other side a
+ huge, flaming-red bison bull, if it had been ordained by the Great
+ Spirit that the soul's time was not yet come, this red bison pushed it
+ back, and the soul was obliged to re-enter the body, which then awoke
+ from its trance or swoon and resumed its worldly activities.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Suicide was regarded as the most heinous of crimes. Any man killing
+ himself deliberately, fell into the river of the ghost world and was
+ never heard of again, while women who hanged themselves "were regarded
+ as the most miserable of all wretches in the other world".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Their belief in spirits&mdash;even ancestral spirits&mdash;taking up an abode in
+ the bodies of beasts, birds, or reptiles, or even in plants or stones,
+ caused them to view with respect of a superstitious kind many natural
+ objects. Some one thing&mdash;a beast, bird, reptile, fish, plant, or
+ strange stone had been fixed on as the abode of his tutelary spirit by
+ some father of a family. The family grew into a clan, and the clan to
+ a tribe, and the object sacred in the eyes of its father and founder
+ became its "totem", crest, or symbol. As a rule, whatever thing was
+ the <i>totem</i> of the individual or the clan was held sacred in their
+ eyes, and, if it was an animal, was not killed, or, if killed, not
+ eaten. Many of the northern Indians would refrain from killing the
+ wolf or the glutton, or if they did so, or did it by accident, they
+ would refuse to skin the animal. The elder people amongst the
+ Athapaskan Indians, in Hearne's day, would reprove the young folk for
+ "speaking disrespectfully" of different beasts and birds.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Their ideas of medicine and surgery were much mixed up with a belief
+ in magic and in the mysterious powers of their "medicine men". This
+ person, who might be of either sex, certainly knew a few simple
+ medicines to be made from herbs or decoctions of bark, but for the
+ most part he attempted to cure the sick or injured by blowing lustily
+ on the part affected or, more wisely, by massage. A universal cure,
+ however, for all fevers and mild ailments was sweating. Sweating huts
+ were built in nearly every settlement. They were covered over in a way
+ to exclude air as much as possible. The inside was heated with red-hot
+ stones and glowing embers, on to which from time to time water was
+ poured to fill the place with steam. The Amerindians not only went
+ through these Turkish baths to cure small ailments but also with the
+ idea of clearing the intelligence and as a fitting preliminary to
+ negotiations&mdash;for peace, or alliance, or even for courtship. In many
+ tribes if a young "brave" arrived with proposals of marriage for a
+ man's daughter he was invited to enter the sweating house with her
+ father, and discuss the bargain calmly over perspiration and the
+ tobacco pipe.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Tobacco smoking indeed was almost a religious ceremony, as well as a
+ remedy for certain maladies or states of mind. The "pipe of peace" has
+ become proverbial. Nevertheless tobacco was still unknown in the
+ eighteenth century to many of the Pacific-coast and far-north-west
+ tribes, as to the primitive Eskimo. It was not a very old practice in
+ the Canadian Dominion when Europeans first arrived there, though it
+ appeared to be one of the most characteristic actions of these
+ red-skinned savages in the astonished eyes of the first pioneers. They
+ used pipes for smoking, however, long before tobacco came among them,
+ certain berries taking the place of tobacco.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians of the southern parts of Canada and British Columbia
+ were more or less settled peoples of towns or villages, of fixed homes
+ to which they returned at all seasons of the year, however far afield
+ they might range for warfare, trade, or hunting. But the more northern
+ tribes were nomads: people shifting their abode from place to place in
+ pursuit of game or trade. Unlike the people of the south and west
+ (though these only grew potatoes) they were not agriculturists: the
+ only vegetable element in their food was the wild rice of the marshes,
+ the sweet-tasting layer between the bark and the wood of certain
+ trees, and the fruits or fungi of the forest or the lichen growing on
+ the rocks. Though these people might in summertime build some hasty
+ wigwam of boughs and moss, their ordinary dwelling place was a tent.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Wood Indians, or Opimitish Ininiwak, of the Athapaskan group
+ (writes Alexander Henry, sen.) had no fixed villages; and their lodges
+ or huts were so rudely fashioned as to afford them very inadequate
+ protection against the weather. The greater part of their year was
+ spent in travelling from place to place in search of food. The animal
+ on which they chiefly depended was the <i>hare</i>&mdash;a most prominent animal
+ in Amerindian economy and tradition. This they took in springes. From
+ its skin they made coverings with much ingenuity, cutting it into
+ narrow strips and weaving this into the shape of a blanket, which was
+ of a very warm and agreeable quality.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Naskwapi Algonkins of inland Labrador were savages that led a
+ wandering life through the bare, flat parts of that country,
+ subsisting chiefly upon flesh, and clothing themselves with the skin
+ of the caribou, which they caught in pitfalls or shot with the bow
+ and arrow. "Very few sights, I believe, can be more distressing to the
+ feelings of humanity than a Labrador savage, surrounded by his wife
+ and five or six small children, half-famished with cold and hunger in
+ a hole dug out of the snow and screened from the inclemency of the
+ weather by the branches of the trees. Their whole furniture is a
+ kettle hung over the fire, not for the purpose of cooking victuals,
+ but for melting snow" (James M'Kenzie).
+</p>
+<p>
+ A description of the tents of the Kris or Knistino (Algonkins of the
+ Athabaska region), written by Alexander Henry, sen., applies with very
+ little difference to all the other tribes dwelling to the east of the
+ Rocky Mountains.<a name="7-11"></a><a href="#note-7-11"><small>[11]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ These tents were of dressed leather, erected with poles, generally
+ seventeen in number, of which two were tied together about three feet
+ from the top. The first two poles being erected and set apart at the
+ base, the others were placed against them in a slanting position,
+ meeting at the top, so that they all formed nearly a circle, which was
+ then covered with the leather. This consisted of ten to fifteen
+ dressed skins of the bison, moose, or red deer, well sewed together
+ and nicely cut to fit the conical figure of the poles, with an opening
+ above, to let out smoke and admit the light. From this opening down to
+ the door the two edges of the tent were brought close together and
+ well secured with wooden pegs about six inches long, leaving for the
+ door an oval aperture about two feet wide and three feet high, below
+ which the edges were secured with similar pegs. This small entrance
+ did well enough for the natives, who would be brought up to it from
+ infancy, but a European might be puzzled to get through, as a piece of
+ hide stretched upon a frame of the same shape as the door, but
+ somewhat larger, hung outside, and must be first raised by the hand of
+ the incomer.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Such tents were usually spacious, measuring twenty feet in diameter.
+ The fire was always made in the centre, around which the occupants
+ generally placed a range of stones to prevent the ashes from
+ scattering and to keep the fire compact. New tents were perfectly
+ white; some of them were painted with red and black figures. These
+ devices were generally derived from the dreams of the Amerindians,
+ being some mythical monster or other hideous animal, whose description
+ had been handed down from their ancestors. A large camp of such tents,
+ pitched regularly on a level plain, had a fine effect at a distance,
+ especially when numerous bands of horses were seen feeding in all
+ directions.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The "lodges" or long houses made of poles, fir branches, moss, &amp;c.,
+ wherein, among the Iroquois, Algonkin, and Siou peoples, several
+ families made a common habitation, are described here and there in the
+ course of the narrative. The houses of the coast tribes of British
+ Columbia were bigger, more elaborate, and permanent, and in this
+ region the natives had acquired some idea of carpentry, and had learnt
+ to make planks of wood by splitting with wedges or hewing with adzes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ One of these British Columbian houses was measured, and found to be
+ seventy feet long by twenty-five feet wide; the entrance in the gable
+ end was cut through a plank five and a half feet wide, and nearly
+ oval. A board suspended on the outside answered for a door; on the
+ other side of the broad plank was rudely carved a large painted figure
+ of a man, between whose legs was the passage. But other houses on the
+ Pacific coast, visited by Cook or Vancouver, are said to have been
+ large enough to accommodate seven hundred people. These houses of the
+ Pacific coast region were exceedingly filthy, sturgeon and salmon
+ being strewn about in every direction. The men inhabiting them were
+ often disgusting in their behaviour, while the women are declared to
+ have been "devoid of shame or decency".
+</p>
+<p>
+ According to Mackenzie, such habitations swarmed with fleas, and even
+ the ground round about them "was alive with this vermin". The
+ Alexander Henrys, both uncle and nephew, complain of the flea plague
+ (partly due to the multitude of dogs) in every Indian village or
+ encampment.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The domestic implements of the Amerindians were few. Pottery seems to
+ have been unknown amongst the northern tribes to the east and north of
+ the Mississippi valley, but earthen jars and vessels were made by the
+ Dakota-Siou group in the valley of the Mississippi. Amongst these
+ agricultural Indians the hoe was made of a buffalo's blade bone
+ fastened to a crooked wooden handle. The Ojibwés manufactured chisels
+ out of beavers' teeth. The Eskimo and some of the neighbouring
+ Amerindian tribes used oblong "kettles" of stone&mdash;simply great blocks
+ of stone chipped, rubbed, and hollowed out into receptacles, with
+ handles at both ends. (It is suggested that they borrowed the idea of
+ these stone vessels for cooking from the early Norse settlers of
+ Greenland; see p. <a href="#p18">18</a>.)
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains made
+ kettles or cooking vessels out of blocks of "cedar" (<i>Juniper</i>) wood;
+ east of the Rocky Mountains the birch-bark kettle was universal. Of
+ course these vessels of wood or bark could not be placed on the fire
+ or embers to heat or boil the contents, as was possible with the
+ "kettles" of stone or the cooking pots of clay. So the people using
+ them heated the water in which the food or the soup was boiled by
+ making stones red-hot in the fire and then dropping them into the
+ birch-bark or cedar-wood tubs. Many of the northern Indians got into
+ the way of eating their food raw because of the difficulty of making a
+ fire away from home.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In regard to food, neither Amerindian nor Eskimo was squeamish. They
+ were almost omnivorous, and specially delighted in putrid or noisome
+ substances from which a European would turn in loathing, and from the
+ eating of which he might conceivably die.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It was only in the extreme south of Canada or in British Columbia
+ (potatoes only) that any agriculture was carried on and that the
+ natives had maize, pumpkins, and pease to add to their dietary; but
+ (as compared to the temperate regions of Europe and Asia) Nature was
+ generous in providing wild fruits and grain without trouble of
+ husbandry. The fruits and nuts have been enumerated elsewhere, but a
+ description might be given here of the "wild oats" (<i>Avena fatua</i>) and
+ the "wild rice" of the regions of central Canada and the middle west.
+ The wild oats made a rough kind of porridge, but were not so important
+ and so nourishing as the wild rice which is so often mentioned in the
+ stories of the pioneers, who liked this wild grain as much as the
+ Indians did.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This wild rice (<i>Zizania aquatica</i>) grew naturally in small rivers and
+ swampy places. The stems were hollow, jointed at intervals, and the
+ grain appeared at the extremity of the stalk. By the month of June
+ they had grown two feet above the surface of the shallow water, and
+ were ripe for harvesting in September. At this period the Amerindians
+ passed in canoes through the water-fields of wild rice, shaking the
+ ears into the canoes as they swept by. The grain fell out easily when
+ ripe, but in order to clean it from the husk it was dried over a slow
+ fire on a wooden grating. After being winnowed it was pounded to flour
+ in a mortar, or else boiled like rice, and seasoned with fat. "It had
+ a most delicate taste", wrote Alexander Henry the Elder.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Fish was perhaps the staple of Amerindian diet, because in scarcely
+ any part of the Canadian Dominion is a lake, river, or brook far away.
+ In the region of the Great Lakes fish were caught in large quantities
+ in October, and exposed to the weather to be frozen at nighttime. They
+ were then stored away in this congealed state, and lasted good&mdash;more
+ or less&mdash;till the following April.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Pemmican&mdash;that early form of potted meat so familiar to the readers of
+ Red-Indian romances&mdash;was made of the lean meat of the bison. The
+ strips of meat were dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded in a
+ mortar and mixed with an equal quantity of bison fat. Fish "pemmican"
+ was sun-dried fish ground to powder.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A favourite dish among the northern Indians was blood mixed with the
+ half-digested food found in the stomach of a deer, boiled up with a
+ sufficient quantity of water to make it of the consistency of pease
+ porridge. Some scraps of fat or tender flesh were shredded small and
+ boiled with it. To render this dish more palatable they had a method
+ of mixing the blood with the contents of the stomach in the paunch
+ itself, and hanging it up in the heat and smoke of the fire for
+ several days&mdash;in other words, the Scotch haggis. The kidneys of both
+ moose and buffalo were usually eaten <i>raw</i> by the southern Indians,
+ for no sooner was one of those beasts killed than the hunter ripped up
+ its belly, snatched out the kidneys, and ate them warm, before the
+ animal was quite dead. They also at times put their mouths to the
+ wound the ball or the arrow had made, and sucked the blood; this, they
+ said, quenched thirst, and was very nourishing.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The favourite drink of the Ojibwé Indians in the wintertime was hot
+ broth poured over a dishful of pure snow.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians of the Nipigon country (north of Lake Superior) and
+ the Ojibwés and Kris often relapsed into cannibalism when hard up for
+ food. Indeed some of them became so addicted to this practice that
+ they simply went about stalking their fellow Indians with as much
+ industry as if they were hunting animals. "These prowling ogres caused
+ such terror that to sight the track of one of them was sufficient to
+ make twenty families decamp in all the speed of their terror"
+ (Alexander Henry). It was deemed useless to attempt any resistance
+ when these monsters were coming to kill and eat. The people would even
+ make them presents of clothes and provisions to allow them and their
+ children to live. There were women cannibals as well as men (see p.
+ <a href="#p171">171</a>).
+</p>
+<p>
+ As the greater part of their food came from the chase, and their only
+ articles of commerce likewise, they devoted themselves more entirely
+ to hunting and fishing than to any other pursuit. The women did most
+ of the fishing (and all the skin-curing for the fur market and for
+ their own dress), while the men pursued with weapons the beasts of the
+ chase, trapped them in pitfalls or snares, or drove them into "pounds"
+ (excavated enclosures).
+</p>
+<p>
+ Illustrating the wonderful sagacity of the Amerindians as game
+ trackers, Alexander Henry the Elder tells the following story in the
+ autumn of 1799:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "We had not gone far from the house before we fell upon the fresh
+ tracks of some red deer (wapiti), and soon after discovered the herd
+ in a thicket of willows and poplars; we both fired, and the deer
+ disappeared in different directions. We pursued them, but to no
+ purpose, as the country was unfavourable. We then returned to the spot
+ where we had fired, as the Indian suspected that we had wounded some
+ of them. We searched to see if we could find any blood; on my part, I
+ could find tracks, but no blood. The Indian soon called out, and I
+ went to him, but could see no blood, nor any sign that an animal had
+ been wounded. However, he pointed out the track of a large buck among
+ the many others, and told me that from the manner in which this buck
+ had started off he was certain the animal had been wounded. As the
+ ground was beaten in every direction by animals, it was only after a
+ tedious search that we found where the buck had struck off. But no
+ blood was seen until, passing through a thicket of willows, he
+ observed a drop upon a leaf, and next a little more. He then began to
+ examine more strictly, to find out in what part of the body the
+ animal had been wounded; and, judging by the height and other signs,
+ he told me the wound must have been somewhere between the shoulder and
+ neck. We advanced about a mile, but saw nothing of the deer, and no
+ more blood. I was for giving up the chase; but he assured me the wound
+ was mortal, and that if the animal should lie down he could not rise
+ again. We proceeded two miles farther, when, coming out upon a small
+ open space, he told me the animal was at no great distance, and very
+ probably in this meadow. We accordingly advanced a few yards, and
+ there we found the deer lying at the last gasp. The wound was exactly
+ as I had been told. The sagacity of the Saulteurs [Ojibwés] in tracing
+ big wood animals is astonishing. I have frequently witnessed
+ occurrences of this nature; the bend of a leaf or blade of grass is
+ enough to show the hunter the direction the game has taken. Their
+ ability is of equally great service to war parties, when they discover
+ the footsteps of their enemies."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Assiniboin Indians (a branch of the Sious) down to about fifty
+ years ago captured the bison of the plains in hundreds at a time by
+ driving them into large excavated areas below the level of the ground.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Alexander Henry, jun., gives the following description of this
+ procedure in 1810:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The pounds are of different dimensions, according to the number of
+ tents in one camp. The common size is from sixty to one hundred paces
+ or yards in circumference, and about five feet in height. Trees are
+ cut down, laid upon one another, and interwoven with branches and
+ green twigs; small openings are left to admit the dogs to feed upon
+ the carcasses of the (old) bulls, which are generally left as useless.
+ This enclosure is commonly made between two hummocks, on the declivity
+ or at the foot of rising ground. The entrance is about ten paces wide,
+ and always fronts the plains. On each side of this entrance commences
+ a thick range of fascines, the two ranges spreading asunder as they
+ extend to the distance of one hundred yards, beyond which openings are
+ left at intervals; but the fascines soon become more thinly planted,
+ and continue to spread apart to the right and left until each range
+ has been extended about three hundred yards from the pound. The labour
+ is then diminished by only placing at intervals three or four cross
+ sticks, in imitation of a dog or other animal (sometimes called 'dead
+ men'); these extend on the plain for about two miles, and double rows
+ of them are planted in several other directions to a still greater
+ distance. Young men are usually sent out to collect and bring in the
+ buffalo&mdash;a tedious task, which requires great patience, for the herd
+ must be started by slow degrees. This is done by setting fire to dung
+ or grass. Three young men will bring in a herd of several hundred from
+ a great distance. When the wind is aft it is most favourable, as they
+ can then direct the buffalo with great ease. Having come in sight of
+ the ranges, they generally drive the herd faster, until it begins to
+ enter the ranges, where a swift-footed person has been stationed with
+ a buffalo robe over his head, to imitate that animal; but sometimes a
+ horse performs this business. When he sees buffaloes approaching he
+ moves slowly toward the pound until they appear to follow him; then he
+ sets off at full speed, imitating a buffalo as well as he can, with
+ the herd after him. The young men in the rear now discover themselves,
+ and drive the herd on with all possible speed. There is always a
+ sentinel on some elevated spot to notify the camp when the buffalo
+ appear; and this intelligence is no sooner given than every man,
+ woman, and child runs to the ranges that lead to the pound to prevent
+ the buffalo from taking a wrong direction. Then they lie down between
+ the fascines and cross sticks, and, if the buffalo attempt to break
+ through, the people wave their robes, which causes the herd to keep
+ on, or turn to the opposite <a name="p186"></a>side, where other persons do the same.
+ When the buffalo have been thus directed to the entrance of the pound,
+ the Indian who leads them rushes into it and out at the other side,
+ either by jumping over the enclosure or creeping through an opening
+ left for that purpose. The buffalo tumble in pell-mell at his heels,
+ almost exhausted, but keep moving around the enclosure from east to
+ west, and never in a direction against the sun. What appeared
+ extraordinary to me on those occasions was that, when word was given
+ to the camp of the near approach of the buffalo, the dogs would skulk
+ away from the pound and not approach until the herd entered. Many
+ buffaloes break their legs and some their necks in jumping into the
+ pound, as the descent is generally six or eight feet, and stumps are
+ left standing there. The buffalo being caught, the men assembled at
+ the enclosure, armed with bows and arrows; every arrow has a
+ particular mark of the owner, and they are let fly until the whole
+ herd is killed. Then the men enter the pound, and each claims his own;
+ but commonly there is what they term the master of the pound, who
+ divides the animals and gives each tent an equal share, reserving
+ nothing for himself. But in the end he is always the best provided
+ for; everyone is obliged to send him a certain portion, as it is in
+ his tent that the numerous ceremonies relating to the pound are
+ observed. There the young men are always welcome to feast and smoke,
+ and no women are allowed to enter, as that tent is set apart for the
+ affairs of the pound. Horses are sometimes used to collect and bring
+ in buffalo, but this method is less effectual than the other; besides,
+ it frightens the herds and soon causes them to withdraw to a great
+ distance. When horses are used the buffalo are absolutely driven into
+ the pound, but when the other method is pursued they are in a manner
+ enticed to their destruction."
+</p>
+<p>
+ A somewhat similar method was adopted by the northern Kris and
+ Athapascans for the capture of reindeer.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As regards means of transport, the use of dogs as draught animals was
+ by no means confined to the Eskimo: they were used in wintertime to
+ draw sledges over the snow or ice by nearly all the northern Indian
+ tribes, and by the people of the Rocky Mountains and Pacific coast.
+ After the Amerindians of the prairies and plains received horses
+ (indirectly through the Spaniards of Mexico)<a name="7-12"></a><a href="#note-7-12"><small>[12]</small></a> they sometimes
+ employed the smaller and poorer kind of ponies as pack animals; but
+ for the most part throughout the summer season of the Canadian
+ Dominion&mdash;from May to October&mdash;transport and travel by canoe was the
+ favourite method.
+</p>
+<p>
+ There were four very well marked types of canoe or boat in British
+ North America. There was the already-described Eskimo <i>kayak</i>, made of
+ leather stretched over a framework of wood or bone; the Amerindians of
+ the Dominion, south of the Eskimo and east of the Rocky Mountains,
+ used the familiar "birch-bark" canoe;<a name="7-13"></a><a href="#note-7-13"><small>[13]</small></a> the peoples of the Pacific
+ coast belt possessed something more like a boat, made out of a
+ hollowed tree trunk and built up with planks; and the tribes of the
+ Upper Mississippi used round coracles. Here are descriptions of all
+ three kinds of Amerindian canoe from the pens of eighteenth-century
+ pioneers: The birch-bark canoe used on the Great Lakes was about
+ thirty-three feet long by four and a half feet broad, and formed of
+ the smooth rind or bark of the birch tree fastened outside a wooden
+ framework. It was lined with small splints of juniper cedar, and the
+ vessel was further strengthened with ribs of the same wood, of which
+ the two ends were fastened to the gunwales. Several bars rather than
+ seats were laid across the canoe from gunwale to gunwale, the small
+ roots of the spruce fir afforded the fibre with which the bark was
+ sewn or stitched, and the gum of the pine tree supplied the place of
+ tar and oakum. Bark, some spare fibre, and gum were always carried in
+ each canoe for repairs, which were constantly necessary (one
+ continually reads in the diaries of the pioneers of "stopping to gum
+ the canoe"). The canoes were propelled with paddles, and occasionally
+ a sail.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The aborigines of Newfoundland&mdash;the Beothiks&mdash;are said to have known
+ the birch-bark canoe, framework canoe, but to have employed
+ "dug-outs"&mdash;hollowed tree trunks. The canoes of the Mandans of the
+ upper Missouri basin were like coracles, of circular form, made of a
+ framework of bent willow branches over which was stretched a raw
+ bison-hide with the hair inside. This was sewn tightly round the
+ willow rim. In lieu of a paddle they use a pole about five feet long,
+ split at one end to admit a piece of board about two feet long and
+ half a foot broad, which was lashed to the pole and so formed a kind
+ of cross. There was but one for each canoe. The paddler of this
+ coracle made directly for the opposite shore; every stroke he gave
+ turned his "dish" almost entirely round; to recover his position and
+ go on his intended route, he must give a stroke on the other side,
+ which brought him up again; and so on till he got over, not without
+ drifting down sometimes nearly a mile.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Alexander Henry, jun., thus describes a canoe of the Clatsop people on
+ the Lower Columbia (Pacific coast, opposite Vancouver Island): "This
+ was a war canoe&mdash;the first of the kind I had seen. She was about
+ thirty-six feet long and wide in proportion, the stem rising upright
+ about six feet, on top of which was a figure of some imaginary monster
+ of uncouth sculpture, having the head of a carnivorous animal with
+ large erect ears but no body, clinging by arms and legs to the upper
+ end of the canoe, and grinning horribly. The ears were painted green,
+ the other parts red and black. The stern also rose about five feet in
+ height, but had no figure carved on it. On each side of both stem and
+ stern broad strips of wood rose about four feet, having holes cut in
+ them to shoot arrows through. She had a high sprit-sail made of
+ handkerchiefs and pieces of gunny-cloth or jute, forming irregular
+ stripes, I am told these Indians commonly have pieces of squared
+ timber, not unlike a three-inch plank, high and broad, perforated to
+ shoot arrows through; this is fixed on the bow of the war canoe to
+ serve as bulwarks in battle."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Canoe voyages were mainly embarked on for trading; but in all
+ probability before the coming of the European there was little trading
+ done between one tribe and another, except in the region <i>west</i> of the
+ Rocky Mountains, in which&mdash;especially to the north&mdash;the Amerindians
+ were so different in their habits and customs from those dwelling east
+ of the mountains as to suggest that they must very occasionally have
+ been in touch with some world outside America, such as Hawaii,
+ Kamschatka, or Japan. In these Pacific coastlands they used a white
+ seashell as a currency and a medium of exchange. So also did the
+ Iroquois people and the southern Algonkin tribes, in the form of
+ "wampum". The principal articles of barter were skins of fur animals,
+ porcupine quills, dogs, slaves, and women.
+</p>
+<p>
+ First Hunting (to supply food), then Trading in the products of the
+ chase, and lastly War were the main subjects which occupied the
+ Amerindian's thoughts before the middle of the nineteenth century.
+ They usually went to war to turn other tribes out of profitable
+ hunting grounds or productive fisheries; or because they wanted slaves
+ or more wives; or because a chief or a medicine man had a dream; or
+ because some other notability felt he had given way too much to tears
+ over some personal or public sorrow, and must show his manliness by
+ killing the people of another tribe. In their wars they knew no mercy
+ when their blood was up, and frequently perpetrated frightful
+ cruelties for the sheer pleasure of seeing human suffering. Yet these
+ devilish moods would alternate with fits of sentimentality. A man or a
+ woman would suddenly take a war prisoner, or a person who was wounded
+ or half-tortured to death, under their protection, and a short time
+ afterwards the whole war party would be greeting this rescued wretch
+ (usually a man&mdash;they were far more pitiless towards women) as brother,
+ son, or friend, and even become quite maudlin over a scratch or a
+ bruise; whereas an hour or so before they were on the point of
+ disembowelling, or of driving splinters up the nails and setting them
+ on fire. In warfare they often gave way to cannibalism.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Though extremely fond of singing&mdash;they sang when they were merry; when
+ they thought they were going to die; when they were victorious in
+ hunting, love, or war; when they were defeated; when they were
+ paddling a canoe or sewing a moccasin&mdash;they had but a poor range of
+ musical instruments. Most of the tribes used flutes made out of the
+ wing bones of cranes or out of reeds, and some had small trumpets of
+ wood, bark, or buffalo horn. The Pacific coast Indians made gongs or
+ "xylophones" out of blocks or slabs of resonant wood.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here is a specimen of Amerindian singing. It is the song which
+ accompanied the famous Calumet dance in celebration of the peacemaking
+ qualities of tobacco-smoking. It was taken down by the Jesuit
+ missionaries in the seventeenth century from the Ilinwa (Illinois)
+ Algonkin Indians of the middle west, and its notation reminds one of
+ Japanese music.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0010"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/music.jpg" width="450" height="685"
+alt="The Calumet Or Tobacco-pipe Dance">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<p class="block">
+ Ninahani, &amp;c, ongo; ninahani, &amp;c, hoho; ninahani, &amp;c.,<br>
+ Kawa bannoge atchicha Koge ake aw&#257;;<br>
+ Banoge atchicha shagobe hé hé hé! Mintingo mitade<br>
+ Pini pini hé! Atchicha lé machi mi nam ba miktande,<br>
+ Miktande pini pini hé!
+</p>
+<p>
+ Dancing was little else than posturing and jumping in masks&mdash;usually
+ made to look like the head of a wild beast. But the men were usually
+ very athletic. Wrestling competitions were almost universal,
+ especially as a means of winning a wife. The conqueror in a wrestling
+ match took the wife or wives of the defeated man. Their running powers
+ for endurance and speed became justly celebrated.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their principal and most inveterate game is that of the hoop," writes
+ Alexander Henry, sen., "which proves as ruinous to them as the platter
+ does to the Saulteurs (Ojibwé)." This game was played in the following
+ manner. A hoop was made about two feet in diameter, nearly covered
+ with dressed leather, and trimmed with quillwork, feathers, bits of
+ metal, and other trinkets, on which were certain particular marks. Two
+ persons played at the same time, by rolling the hoop and accompanying
+ it, one on each side; when it was about to fall, each gently threw one
+ arrow in such a manner that the hoop might fall upon it, and according
+ to that mark on the hoop which rested on the arrows they reckoned the
+ game. They also played another game by holding some article in one
+ hand, or putting it into one of two shoes, the other hand or shoe
+ being empty. They had another game which required forty to fifty small
+ sticks, as thick as a goose quill and about a foot long; these were
+ all shuffled together and then divided into two bunches, and according
+ to the even or odd numbers of sticks in the bunch chosen, the players
+ lost or won.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A favourite game amongst the Ojibwé is described as "the hurdle",
+ which is another name for the Canadian national game of La Crosse.
+ When about to play, the men, of all ages, would strip themselves
+ almost naked, but dress their hair in great style, put ornaments on
+ their arms, and belts round their waists, and paint their faces and
+ bodies in the most elaborate style. Each man was provided with "a
+ hurdle", an instrument made of a small stick of wood about three feet
+ long, bent at the end to a small circle, in which a loose piece of
+ network is fixed, forming a cavity big enough to receive a leather
+ ball about the size of a man's fist. Everything being prepared, a
+ level plain about half a mile long was chosen, with proper barriers or
+ goals at each end. Having previously formed into two equal parts, they
+ assembled in the very middle of the field, and the game began by
+ throwing up the ball perpendicularly in the air, when instantly both
+ parties (writes an eyewitness) "formed a singular group of naked men,
+ painted in different colours and in the most comical attitudes
+ imaginable, holding their rackets elevated in the air to catch the
+ ball". Whoever was so fortunate as to catch it in his net ran with it
+ to the barrier with all his might, supported by his party; whilst the
+ opponents were pursuing and endeavouring to knock the ball out of the
+ net. He who succeeded in doing so ran in the same manner towards the
+ opposite barrier, and was, of course, pursued in his turn. If in
+ danger of being overtaken, he might throw it with his hurdle towards
+ any of his associates who happened to be nearer the barrier than
+ himself. They had a particular knack of throwing it a great distance
+ in this manner, so that the best runners had not always the advantage;
+ and, by a peculiar way of working their hands and arms while running,
+ the ball never dropped out of their "hurdle".
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The best of three heats wins the game, and, besides the honour
+ acquired on such occasions, a considerable prize is adjudged to the
+ victors. The vanquished, however, generally challenge their
+ adversaries to renew the game the next day, which is seldom refused.
+ The game then becomes more important, as the honour of the whole
+ village is at stake, and it is carried on with redoubled impetuosity,
+ every object which might impede them in their career is knocked down
+ and trodden under foot without mercy, and before the game is decided,
+ it is a common thing to see numbers sprawling on the ground with
+ wounded legs and broken heads, yet this never creates any disputes or
+ ill-will after the play is decided" (Alexander Henry, sen.).
+</p>
+<p>
+ It has been computed that in the middle of the eighteenth century the
+ Amerindian population of the vast territories now known as the
+ Dominion of Canada numbered about 300,000. It now stands at an
+ approximate 110,000. The chief diminution has taken place in
+ Newfoundland, Lower and Upper Canada, New Brunswick, Assiniboia, and
+ British Columbia. There may even have been an increase in the north
+ and north-west. The first great blow to the Amerindians of these
+ regions was the smallpox epidemic of 1780. The next was the effect of
+ the strong drink<a name="7-14"></a><a href="#note-7-14"><small>[14]</small></a> introduced by the agents of the Hudson's Bay and,
+ still more, the two North-west Companies. Phthisis or pulmonary
+ consumption also seems to have been introduced from Europe (though
+ Hearne thought that the Northern Indians had it before the white man
+ came). In fact, before the European invaded America neither Eskimo nor
+ Amerindian seem to have had many diseases. They suffered from ulcers,
+ scurvy, digestive troubles, rheumatism, headache, bronchitis, and
+ heart complaints, but from few, if any, "germ" diseases.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Some of the agents of the North-west Company apologize in their
+ writings for the amount of rum that was circulated among the
+ Amerindians at the orders of that company to stimulate trade, by
+ saying that it was seven parts water. Nevertheless it excited them to
+ madness, as the following extracts show. These are mostly taken from
+ the journals of Alexander Henry the Younger, but they are typical of
+ what was recorded by many other writers who describe the far interior
+ of British North America between 1775 and 1835.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "To see a house full of drunken Indians, consisting of men, women, and
+ children, is a most unpleasant sight; for, in that condition, they
+ often wrangle, pull each other by the hair, and fight. At times, ten
+ or twelve of both sexes may be seen fighting each other promiscuously,
+ until at last they all fall on the floor, one upon another, some
+ spilling rum out of a small kettle or dish which they hold in their
+ hands, while others are throwing up what they have just drunk. To
+ add to this uproar, a number of children, some on their mothers'
+ shoulders, and others running about and taking hold of their clothes,
+ are constantly bawling, the elder ones, through fear that their
+ parents may be stabbed, or that some other misfortune may befal them
+ in the fray. These shrieks of the children form a very unpleasant
+ chorus to the brutal noise kept up by their drunken parents."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "In a drinking match at the Hills yesterday, Gros Bras (Thick Arms) in
+ a fit of jealousy stabbed Aupusoi to death with a hand-dague (dagger);
+ the first stroke opened his left side, the second his belly, and the
+ third his breast; he never stirred, although he had a knife in his
+ belt, and died instantly. Soon after this Aupusoi's brother, a boy
+ about ten years of age, took the deceased's gun, loaded it with two
+ balls, and approached Gros Bras's tent. Putting the muzzle of the gun
+ through the door the boy fired the two balls into his breast and
+ killed him dead, just as he was reproaching his wife for her affection
+ for Aupusoi, and boasting of the revenge he had taken. The little
+ fellow ran into the woods and hid. Little Shell (Petite Coquille)
+ found the old woman, Aupusoi's mother, in her tent; he instantly
+ stabbed her. Ondainoiache then came in, took the knife, and gave her a
+ second stab. Little Shell, in his turn taking the knife, gave a third
+ blow. In this manner did these two rascals continue to murder the old
+ woman, as long as there was any life in her. The boy escaped into
+ Langlois' house, and was kept hid until they were all sober. Next
+ morning a hole was dug in the ground, and all three were buried
+ together. This affair kept the Indians from hunting, as Gros Bras was
+ nearly related to the principal hunters."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "Grand' Gueule stabbed Perdrix Blanche with a knife in six places.
+ Perdrix Blanche fighting with his wife, fell in the fire and almost
+ roasted, but had strength enough left notwithstanding his wounds to
+ bite her nose off."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "In the first drinking match a murder was committed in an Assiniboine
+ tent, but fortunately it was done by an Ojibwé. L'Hiver stabbed
+ Mishewashence to the heart three times, and killed him instantly. The
+ wife and children cried out, and some of my people ran to the tent
+ just as L'Hiver came out with the bloody knife in his hand, expecting
+ we would lay hold of him. The first person he met was William Henry,
+ whom he attempted to stab in the breast; but Henry avoided the stroke,
+ and returned the compliment with a blow of his cudgel on the fellow's
+ head. This staggered him; but instantly recovering he made another
+ attempt to stab Henry. Foiled in this design, and observing several
+ coming out of the fort, he took to his heels and ran into the woods
+ like a deer. I chased him with some of my people, but he was too fleet
+ for us. We buried the murdered man, who left a widow and five
+ helpless orphans, having no relations on this river. The behaviour of
+ two of the youngest was really piteous while we were burying the body;
+ they called upon their deceased father not to leave them, but to
+ return to the tent, and tried to prevent the men from covering the
+ corpse with earth, screaming in a terrible manner; the mother was
+ obliged to take them away."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "Men and women have been drinking a match for three days and nights,
+ during which it has been drink, fight&mdash;drink, fight&mdash;drink, and fight
+ again&mdash;guns, axes, and knives being their weapons&mdash;very disagreeable."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "Mithanasconce was so troublesome (in drink) that we were obliged to
+ tie him with ropes to prevent his doing mischief. He was stabbed in
+ the back in three different places about a month ago. His wounds were
+ still open, and had an ugly appearance; in his struggling to get loose
+ they burst out afresh and bled a great deal. We had much trouble to
+ stop the blood, as the fellow was insensible to pain or danger; his
+ only aim was to bite us. We had some narrow escapes, until we secured
+ his mouth, and then he fell asleep."
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ "Some Red Lake Indians having traded here for liquor which they took
+ to their camp, quarrelled amongst themselves. One jumped on another
+ and bit his nose off. It was some time before the piece could be
+ found; but, at last, by tumbling and tossing the straw about, it was
+ recovered, stuck on, and bandaged, as best the drunken people could,
+ in hopes it would grow again" (Alexander Henry, jun.).
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<p>
+ As regards drunkenness, several authors among the early explorers
+ declared that the French Canadian voyageurs were more disagreeable
+ when drunk even than the Amerindians, for their quarrels were noisier
+ and more deadly. "Indeed I had rather have fifty drunken Indians in
+ the fort than sixty-five drunken Canadians", writes Alexander Henry in
+ 1810. And yet the extracts I have given from his journal show that it
+ would be hard to beat the Amerindians for disagreeable ferocity when
+ intoxicated.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry, summing up his experiences before leaving for the Pacific coast
+ in 1811, writes these remarks in his diary:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "What a different set of people they would be, were there not a drop
+ of liquor in the country! If a murder is committed among the Saulteurs
+ (Ojibwés), it is always in a drinking match. We may truly say that
+ liquor is the root of all evil in the north-west. Great bawling and
+ lamentation went on, and I was troubled most of the night for liquor
+ to wash away grief."
+</p>
+<p>
+ As a rule, the treatment of the Amerindians by the British and French
+ settlers was good, except the thrusting of alcohol on them. But in
+ Newfoundland a great crime was perpetrated. Between the middle of the
+ seventeenth and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries the British
+ fishermen and settlers on the coasts of Newfoundland had <i>destroyed</i>
+ the native population of Beothik Indians.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Before the English arrived on the coasts of Newfoundland the Beothiks
+ lived an ideal life for savages. They were well clothed with beasts'
+ skins, and in the winter these were supplemented by heavy fur robes.
+ Countless herds of reindeer roamed through the interior, passing from
+ north to south in the autumn and returning in the spring. Vast flocks
+ of willow grouse (like ptarmigan) were everywhere to be met with; the
+ many lakes were covered with geese, swans, and ducks. The woods were
+ full of pigeons; the salmon swarmed up the rivers to <a name="p199"></a>breed; the sea
+ round the coasts was&mdash;except in the wintertime&mdash;the richest fishery in
+ the world. They caught lobsters in the rock pools, and speared or
+ clubbed seals and great walruses for their flesh and oil. An
+ occasional whale provided them with oil, blubber, and meat. The Great
+ Auk&mdash;which could not fly&mdash;swarmed in millions on the cliffs and
+ islets. So abundant was this bird, and so fat, that its body was
+ sometimes used as fuel, or as a lamp. In the summertime their fish and
+ flesh diet could be varied by the innumerable berries growing
+ wild&mdash;strawberries, raspberries, currants, cranberries, and
+ whortleberries. The <i>capillaire</i> plant yielded a lusciously sweet,
+ sugary substance.<a name="7-15"></a><a href="#note-7-15"><small>[15]</small></a>
+</p>
+<a name="image-0011"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc11.jpg" width="283" height="450"
+alt="Great Auks, Gannets, Puffins, and Guillemots">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>GREAT AUKS, GANNETS, PUFFINS, AND GUILLEMOTS</h5>
+<p>
+ The Beothiks were a tall, good-looking people, with large black eyes
+ and a light-coloured skin. The early French and Biscayan seamen, who
+ resorted to the coasts of Newfoundland for the whale fisheries,
+ reported these "Red Indians" to be "an ingenious and tractable people,
+ if well used, who were ready to help the white men with great labour
+ and patience in the killing, cutting-up, and boiling of whales, and
+ the making of train oil, without other expectation of reward than a
+ little bread or some such small hire".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Yet from the beginning of the seventeenth century the Beothiks&mdash;then
+ about four thousand in number&mdash;were ill-treated by the European
+ fishermen who frequented the Newfoundland coasts. They soon greatly
+ decreased in numbers, and became very shy of white men. The French,
+ when they occupied the south coast of Newfoundland, brought over
+ Mikmak Indians to chase and kill the Beothiks or "Red" Indians. The
+ Eskimo attacked them from Labrador. Finally, when Newfoundland became
+ British in the eighteenth century, the English fishermen settlers and
+ fur hunters attacked and slew the harmless Beothiks with a wanton
+ ferocity (described by horror-struck officers of the British navy)
+ which is as bad as anything attributed to the Spaniards in Cuba and
+ Hispaniola. By about 1830 they were all extinct. As late as 1823 the
+ following anecdote is recorded of two English settlers whose names are
+ hidden behind the initials C and A. "When near Badger Bay they fell in
+ with an Indian man and woman, who approached, apparently soliciting
+ food. The man was first killed, and the woman, who was afterwards
+ found to be his daughter, in despair remained calmly to be fired at,
+ when she was also shot through the chest and immediately expired. This
+ was told Mr. Cormack by the man who did the deed." Even English women
+ in the late eighteenth century were celebrated for their skill "in
+ shooting Red Indians and seals".
+</p>
+<p>
+ "For a period of nearly two hundred years this barbarity had
+ continued, and it was considered meritorious to shoot a Red Indian.
+ 'To go to look for Indians' came to be as much a phrase as to look for
+ partridges (ptarmigan). They were harassed from post to post, from
+ island to island; their hunting and fishing stations were
+ unscrupulously seized by the invading English. They were shot down
+ without the least provocation, or captured to be exposed as
+ curiosities to the rabble at the fairs of the western towns of
+ Christian England at twopence a piece."<a name="7-16"></a><a href="#note-7-16"><small>[16]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ Too late&mdash;when the worry and anxiety of the Napoleonic wars were
+ over&mdash;the British Government sent a commission of naval officers to
+ enquire into the treatment of the Beothiks by the settlers. One woman
+ alone remained, as a frightened semi-captive, to be consoled and
+ soothed. There are Indians in the south of Newfoundland at the present
+ day, but they are Mikmaks who come over from the adjoining regions of
+ Cape Breton and Nova Scotia. So tender, indeed, is the modern
+ government of the island towards these (out of compunction for the
+ past) that they are allowed to kill the reindeer and other wild
+ animals without the licence which is exacted from white people, and so
+ are actually injuring Newfoundland's resources!
+</p>
+<p>
+ Since the great Dominion of Canada was brought into existence in 1871
+ as a unified, responsible government, the treatment of the remaining
+ Amerindian natives of British North America has been admirable; and
+ splendid work has been done in reclaiming them to a wholesome
+ civilization by the Moravian, Roman Catholic, and Church of England
+ missionaries.
+</p>
+
+<a name="note-7-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-1"><u>1</u></a> There may have been an earlier race inhabiting north-east
+ America which was killed out or driven away by the last Glacial
+ period.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-2"><u>2</u></a> "The dogs of the Northern Indians are of various sizes
+ and colours, but all of them have a foxy or wolf-like appearance,
+ sharp noses, bushy tails, and sharp ears standing erect." (Samuel
+ Hearne).<br><br>
+
+ Hearne also remarks that the northern Indians had a superstitious
+ reverence and liking for the wolf. They would frequently go to the
+ mouth of the burrows where the female wolves lived with their young,
+ take out the puppies and play with them, and even paint the faces of
+ the young wolves with vermilion or red ochre.<br><br>
+
+ When first observed by Europeans the unhappy Beothiks (of
+ Newfoundland) had apparently no domestic dogs, only "tame wolves",
+ whom they distinguished from the wild wolves by marking their ears.
+ They were made more angry by the European seamen attacking and killing
+ the wolves than by anything else they did. Apparently some kind of
+ alliance had been struck up between the Beothiks&mdash;a nation of
+ hunters&mdash;and the wolf packs which followed in their tracks; and the
+ Newfoundland wolves were on the way to becoming domesticated "dogs".
+ Later on it was realized that the island <i>did</i> produce a special
+ breed&mdash;the celebrated Newfoundland dog&mdash;the original type of which was
+ much smaller than the modern type, nearly or entirely black in colour,
+ with a sharper muzzle and less pendulous ears. But its feet were as
+ strongly webbed and its habits as aquatic as those of the
+ "Newfoundland" of the modern breed. Some people have noticed the
+ resemblance between the farmers' dogs in Norway and the Newfoundland
+ type, and have thought that the latter may not be altogether of wolf
+ extraction, but be descended from the dogs brought from Norway and
+ Iceland by the Norse adventurers who visited Newfoundland in the tenth
+ and eleventh centuries.
+</p>
+
+
+<a name="note-7-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-3"><u>3</u></a> Of which they made very serviceable chisels.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-4"><u>4</u></a> See also pp. <a href="#p156">156</a>, <a href="#p164">164</a>, <a href="#p186">186</a>, and <a href="#p199">199</a>. In this list I have
+ put in italics the names of the tribes more important in history, and
+ in capitals the principal group names.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-5"><u>5</u></a> Kinistino, Kiristineaux, Kilistino; called "Crees" or
+ "Kris" for short.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-6"><u>6</u></a> "Iroquois" was a name invented by Champlain (see p. <a href="#p69">69</a>).
+ Apparently this confederation called themselves <i>Hodenosauni</i>. The
+ termination "ois" in all French-American names is pronounced
+ "wa"&mdash;Irokwá.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-7"><u>7</u></a> The far-famed term <i>Siou</i> is said to have been an
+ abbreviation of one of the original French names for this type of
+ Amerindian, <i>Nadouessiou</i>. In early books they are often called the
+ Nadouessies.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-8"><u>8</u></a> These northern Indians are described by Hearne as having
+ very low foreheads, small eyes, high cheekbones, Roman noses, broad
+ cheeks, and long, broad chins. Their skins were soft, smooth and
+ polished, somewhat copper-coloured, and inclining towards a dingy
+ brown. The hair of the head was black, strong, and straight. They were
+ not in general above middle size, though well proportioned.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-9"><u>9</u></a> "It is surprising how dexterous all these natives of the
+ plains are in communicating their ideas by signs. They hold
+ conferences for several hours, upon different subjects, during the
+ whole of which time not a single word is pronounced upon either side,
+ and still they appear to comprehend each other perfectly well. This
+ mode of communication is natural to them; their gestures are made with
+ the greatest ease, and they never seem to be at a loss for a sign to
+ express their meaning" (Alex. Henry the Younger, 1800). But it should
+ also be noted that during the last hundred years the peoples belonging
+ to the N&#363;tka-Columbian group have developed a trade language which
+ they use in common. This is a mixture of Chin&#363;k, English, French,
+ Chinese, and Hawaaian.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-10"><u>10</u></a> The manner of courtship among the Ojibwés seemed to
+ Peter Grant not only singular, but rude. "The lover begins his first
+ addresses by gently pelting his mistress with bits of clay, snowballs,
+ small sticks, or anything he may happen to have in his hand. If she
+ returns the compliment, he is encouraged to continue the farce, and
+ repeat it for a considerable time, after which more direct proposals
+ of marriage are made by word of mouth."
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-11"><u>11</u></a> See also p. <a href="#p249">249</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-12"><u>12</u></a> See p. <a href="#p150">150</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-13"><u>13</u></a> In the far north-west, on the rivers of the Pacific
+ slope, the natives used spruce-fir bark instead of birch.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-14"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-14"><u>14</u></a> Before the white man came to <i>North</i> America the natives
+ had no form of intoxicating drink.
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-15"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-15"><u>15</u></a> This was the Moxie plum or creeping snowberry
+ (<i>Chiogenes hispidula</i>).
+</p>
+<a name="note-7-16"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#7-16"><u>16</u></a> These are the remarks of an English chaplain in the
+ island, quoted by the Rev. George Patterson, who contributed a most
+ interesting article on the vanished Beothiks of Newfoundland to the
+ Royal Society of Canada in 1891.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0008"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER VIII
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ The Hudson Bay Explorers and the British Conquest of all Canada
+</h3>
+<p>
+ In a general way the discovery of the main features of the vast
+ Canadian Dominion may be thus apportioned amongst the different
+ European nations. First came the British, led by an Italian pilot.
+ They discovered Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland.
+ Then came the Portuguese, who discovered the north-east of
+ Newfoundland and the coast of Labrador, while a French expedition
+ under an Italian captain reached to Nova Scotia and southern
+ Newfoundland. A Spanish expedition under a Portuguese leader shortly
+ afterwards reached the coast of New Brunswick. After that the French
+ from Brittany, Normandy, and the west coast of France laid bare the
+ <i>west</i> coast of Newfoundland, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the River St.
+ Lawrence, and the Great Lakes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Sir Francis Drake led the way in the exploration of the north-west
+ coast of North America. He reached, in 1579, as far north on that side
+ as the country of Oregon, which he christened New Albion. This action
+ stirred up the Spaniards, who explored the coast of California, and in
+ 1591-2 sent an Ionian Island pilot, Apostolos Valeriano (commonly
+ called Juan de Fuca), in charge of an expedition to discover the
+ imagined Straits of Anian. He gave strength to this idea of a
+ continuous water route across temperate North America by entering (in
+ 1592) the straits, since called Juan de Fuca, between Vancouver Island
+ and the modern State of Washington, and passing thence into the
+ Straits of Georgia, which bear a striking resemblance in their
+ features to the Straits of Magellan.
+</p>
+<p>
+ French explorers and adventurers, as we have seen, penetrated from the
+ basin of the St. Lawrence to the north and west until they touched the
+ southern extension of Hudson Bay (James's Bay), discovered Lake
+ Winnipeg and the Saskatchewan Rivers, the upper Missouri and the whole
+ course of the Mississippi, and finally recorded the existence of the
+ Rocky Mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Parallel with these movements the British discovered the broad belt of
+ sea between Greenland and North America and the whole area of Hudson
+ Bay. After the French had ceased to reign in North America, the
+ British were to reveal the great rivers flowing into the Arctic Ocean,
+ the coasts and islands of the Arctic Ocean, the Yukon River, and the
+ coasts and islands of British Columbia and Alaska.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The first Europeans, however, to reach Alaska were Russians led by
+ Vitus Bering, a great Danish sea captain in the Russian service.
+ Bering was born in 1680 at Horsens, in the province of Aarhuus, E.
+ Denmark, and entered the service of Peter the Great, who was desirous
+ of knowing where Asia terminated and America began. Bering discovered
+ the straits which bear his name in 1728, and in 1741 was wrecked and
+ died on Bering's Island. Captain James Cook, the British discoverer of
+ Australia and of so many Pacific islands, completed the work of Bering
+ in 1788 in charting the north-west American coast right into the
+ Arctic Ocean.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It has already been related in Chapter III how the Hudson's Bay
+ Chartered Company came to be founded. Soon after their first pioneers
+ were established, in 1670, at Fort Nelson, on the west coast of Hudson
+ Bay, near where York Factory now stands, there was born&mdash;or brought
+ out from England as an infant&mdash;a little boy named Henry Kellsey, who
+ as a child took a great fancy to the Amerindians who came to trade at
+ Fort Nelson. As he played with them, and they returned his affection,
+ he learnt their language, and&mdash;for some inconceivable reason&mdash;this
+ gave great offence to the stupid governor of the fort (indeed, when
+ Kellsey as a grown man, some years afterwards, compiled a vocabulary
+ of the Kri language for the use of traders, the Hudson's Bay Company
+ ordered it to be suppressed). Stupid Governor Geyer not only objected
+ to Kellsey picking up the Kri language, but punished him most severely
+ for that and for his boyish tricks and jokes; so much so, that
+ Kellsey, when he was about ten years old, ran away with the returning
+ Indians, some of whom had grown very fond of him whilst they stayed at
+ Fort Nelson.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Six years afterwards an Indian brought to the governor of the fort a
+ letter written by Kellsey in charcoal on a piece of white birch bark.
+ In this he asked the governor's pardon for running away, and his
+ permission to return to the fort. As a kind reply was sent, Kellsey
+ appeared not long afterwards grown into a young man, accompanied by an
+ Indian wife and attended by a party of Indians. He was dressed exactly
+ like them, but differed from them in the respect which he showed to
+ his native wife. She attempted to accompany her husband into the
+ factory or place of business, and the governor stopped her; but
+ Kellsey at once told him in English that he would not enter himself if
+ his wife was not suffered to go with him, and so the governor
+ relented. After this Kellsey (who must then have been about seventeen)
+ seems to have regularly enrolled himself in 1688 in the service of the
+ Company, and he was employed as a kind of commercial traveller who
+ made long journeys to the north-west to beat up a fur trade for the
+ Company and induce tribes of Indians to make long journeys every
+ summer to the Company's factory with the skins they had secured
+ between the autumn and the spring. In this way Kellsey penetrated
+ into the country of the Assiniboines, and he finally reached a more
+ distant tribe or nation called by the long name of Néwátamipoet.<a name="8-1"></a><a href="#note-8-1"><small>[1]</small></a>
+ Kellsey first of all made for Split Lake, up the Nelson River, and
+ thence paddled westwards in his canoe for a distance of 71 miles. Here
+ he abandoned the canoe, and, for what he estimated as 316 miles, he
+ tramped through a wooded country, first covered with fir and pine
+ trees, and farther on with poplar and birch. Apparently he then
+ reached a river flowing into Reindeer Lake. In a general way his steps
+ must have taken him in the direction of Lake Athapaska.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the way he had much trouble with the Assiniboin Indians and Kris,
+ with whom he had caught up, and with whom he was to travel in the
+ direction of these mysterious Néwátamipoets. The last-named tribe, who
+ were probably of the Athapaskan group, had killed, a few months
+ previously, three of the Kri women, and the Kri Indians who belonged
+ to Kellsey's party were bent, above all things, on attacking the
+ Néwátamipoets and punishing them for this outrage. Kellsey only wished
+ to open up peaceful relations with them and create a great trade in
+ furs with the Hudson's Bay Company, so he kept pleading with the
+ Indians not to go to war with the Néwátamipoets. On this journey,
+ however, one of the Kri Indians fell ill and died. The next day the
+ body was burnt with much ceremony&mdash;first the flesh, and then the
+ bones&mdash;and after this funeral the companions of the dead man began to
+ reason as to the cause of his death, and suddenly blamed Kellsey.
+ Kellsey had obstructed them from their purpose of avenging their slain
+ women, therefore the gods of the tribe were angry and claimed this
+ victim in the man who had died. Kellsey was very near being sent to
+ the other world to complete the sacrifice; but he arranged for "a
+ feast of tobacco"&mdash;in other words, a calm deliberation and the smoking
+ of the pipe of peace. He explained to the angry Indians that his
+ Company had not supplied him with guns and ammunition with which to go
+ to war, but to induce them to embark on the fur trade and to kill wild
+ animals for their skins. If, instead of this, they went to war, or
+ injured him, they need never again go down to Fort Nelson for any
+ further trade or supplies. Four days afterwards, however, the
+ attention of the whole party was concentrated on bison.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Bison could now be seen in abundance. Kellsey was already acquainted
+ with the musk ox, which he had seen in the colder regions near to
+ Hudson Bay; but the bison seemed to him quite different, with horns
+ growing like those of an English ox, black and short. In the middle of
+ September he reached the country of the Néwátamipoets, and presented
+ to their chief, on behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company, a present of
+ clothes, knives, awls, tobacco, and a gun, gunpowder, and shot. On
+ this journey Kellsey encountered the grizzly bear, a more common
+ denizen of the western regions of North America. According to his own
+ account, he and one of the Indians with him were attacked by two
+ grizzly bears and obliged to climb into the branches of trees. The
+ bears followed them; but Kellsey fired and killed one, and later on
+ the other also. For this feat he was greatly reverenced by the
+ Indians, and received the name of Mistopashish, or "little giant".
+ Kellsey afterwards rose to be governor of York Fort, on the west coast
+ of Hudson Bay.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next great explorer ranging westward from Hudson Bay was Anthony
+ Hendry.<a name="8-2"></a><a href="#note-8-2"><small>[2]</small></a> Anthony Hendry left York factory in 1754, with a company of
+ Kri Indians, to make a great journey of exploration to the west, and
+ with the deliberate intention of wintering with the natives and not
+ returning for that purpose to Hudson Bay. By means of canoe travel and
+ portages he reached Oxford Lake. From here he gained Moose Lake, and
+ soon afterwards "the broad waters of the Saskatchewan&mdash;the first
+ Englishman to see this great river of the western plains".<a name="8-3"></a><a href="#note-8-3"><small>[3]</small></a>
+ Twenty-two miles upstream from the point where it reached the
+ Saskatchewan he came to a French fort which had only been standing for
+ a year, and which represented probably the farthest advance northwards
+ of the French Canadians.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0012"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<a href="images/map12-large.jpg"> <img src="images/map12-small.jpg" width="610" height="400"
+alt="Map of Eastern Canada and Newfoundland"></a>
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<p class="ar"> [<a href="images/map12-large.jpg"><small>LARGER MAP</small></a>]</p>
+
+<p>
+ The situation was a rather delicate one, for the Hudson's Bay Company
+ was a thorn in the side of French Canada. However, in this
+ year&mdash;1754&mdash;the two nations were not actually at war, and the two
+ Frenchmen in charge of the fort received him "in a very genteel
+ manner", and invited him into their home, where he readily accepted
+ their hospitality. At first they spoke of detaining him till the
+ commandant of the fort returned, but abandoned this idea after
+ reflection, and Hendry continued his journey up the Saskatchewan. He
+ then left the river and marched on foot over the plains which separate
+ the North and the South Saskatchewan Rivers. The South Saskatchewan
+ was found to be a high stream covered with birch, poplar, elder, and2
+ fir. He and his Indian guides were searching for the horse-riding
+ Blackfeet Indians.<a name="8-4"></a><a href="#note-8-4"><small>[4]</small></a> All the Amerindians known to the Hudson's Bay
+ Company hitherto travelled on foot, using snowshoes in the winter; but
+ vague rumours had reached the Company that in the far south-west there
+ were great nations of Indians which did all their hunting on
+ horseback.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hendry had now found them, and he also met a small tribe of
+ Assiniboins&mdash;the Mekesue or Eagle Indians&mdash;who differed from the
+ surrounding tribes by going about, at any rate in the summertime,
+ absolutely naked. Here, too, between the two Saskatchewans, they saw
+ herds of bison on the plains grazing like English cattle. But they
+ also found elk (moose), wapiti or red deer, hares, grouse, geese, and
+ ducks. He records in his journal: "I went with the young men
+ a-buffalo-hunting, all armed with bows and arrows; killed several;
+ fine sport. We beat them about, lodging twenty arrows in one beast. So
+ expert were the natives that they will take the arrows out of the
+ buffalo when they are foaming and raging with pain and tearing up the
+ ground with their feet and horns until they fall down." The
+ Amerindians killed far more of these splendid beasts than they could
+ eat, and from these carcasses they merely took the tongues and a few
+ choice pieces, leaving the remainder to the wolves and the grizzly
+ bears.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last they arrived at the temporary village of the Blackfeet. Two
+ hundred tents or <i>tipis</i> were pitched in two parallel rows, and down
+ this avenue marched Anthony Hendry, gazed at silently by many
+ Blackfeet Indians until he reached the large house or lodge of their
+ great chief, at the end of the avenue of tents. This lodge was large
+ enough to contain fifty persons. The chief received him seated on the
+ sacred skin of a white buffalo. The pipe of peace was then produced
+ and passed round in silence, each person taking a ceremonial puff.
+ Boiled bison beef was then brought to the guests in baskets made of
+ willow branches. Hendry told the great chief of the Blackfeet that he
+ had been sent by the great leader of the white men at Hudson Bay to
+ invite the Blackfeet Indians to come to these eastern waters in the
+ summertime, and bring with them beaver and wolf skins, for which they
+ would get, in return, guns, ammunition, cloth, beads, and other trade
+ goods. But this chief, though he listened patiently, pointed out that
+ this fort on Hudson Bay was situated at a very great distance, that
+ his men only knew how to ride horses, and not how to paddle canoes.
+ Moreover, they could not live without bison beef, and disliked fish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After leaving the headquarters of the Blackfeet, Hendry rambled over
+ the beautiful country of fir woods and pine woods until he must have
+ got within sight of the Rocky Mountains, though these are not
+ mentioned in his journal. Then, after passing the winter (which did
+ not begin as regards cold weather till the 2nd of December, and was
+ over at the end of March) he returned to the French fort on the
+ Saskatchewan, where he was received by the Commandant, de La Corne,
+ with great kindness and hospitality. These Frenchmen, he found, were
+ able to speak in great perfection several Indian languages; they were
+ well dressed, and courtly in manners, and led a civilized life in
+ these distant wilds. They had excellent trade goods and were sincerely
+ liked by the Indians, but for some reason or other they lacked
+ Brazilian tobacco, which seems to have been a commodity much in favour
+ amongst the Indians. With this the Hudson's Bay Company were kept well
+ supplied, and that alone enabled them in any degree to compete with
+ the French. But in ten years more this French fort would be abandoned
+ owing to the cession of Canada to Britain.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The British, in fact, all through the first half of the eighteenth
+ century, by their superiority in sea power, were steadily strangling
+ the French empire in North America. Acadia, or Nova Scotia, and New
+ Brunswick had been, as we have seen, recognized as British in 1713,
+ and Newfoundland, also, subject to certain conditions, giving France
+ the exclusive right to fish on the <i>western</i> and <i>northern</i> coasts of
+ Newfoundland. The result was that when "New France", or Canada and
+ Louisiana combined, was at its greatest extent of conquered and
+ administered territory, France held but a very limited seacoast from
+ which to approach it&mdash;just the mouth of the Mississippi, and a little
+ bit of Alabama on the south and Cape Breton Island on the east. Cape
+ Breton Island was commanded by the immensely strong fortress of
+ Louisburg, and the possession of this place gave the French some
+ security in entering the Gulf of St. Lawrence through Cabot Straits.
+ But Louisburg was captured by the British colonists of New England
+ (United States) in 1745; and although it was given back to France
+ again, it was reoccupied in 1758, and served as a basis for the
+ armaments which were directed against Quebec in 1759, and which
+ resulted at the close of that year in the surrender of that important
+ city. In 1763 all Canada was ceded to the British, and Louisiana
+ (which had become the western barrier of the about-to-be-born United
+ States) was ceded to Spain; the French flag flew no more on the
+ Continent of North America, save in the two little islands of St.
+ Pierre and Miquelon adjoining Newfoundland, wherein it still remains
+ as a reminder of the splendid achievements of Frenchmen in America.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-8-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#8-1"><u>1</u></a> Spelt in the documents of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+ Naywatame-poet.
+</p>
+<a name="note-8-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#8-2"><u>2</u></a> The young or old reader of this and other books dealing
+ with the exploration of the Canadian Dominion will be indeed puzzled
+ between the various Hendrys and Henrys. The last-named was a prolific
+ stock, from which several notable explorers and servants of the
+ fur-trading companies were drawn. In this book a careful distinction
+ must be made between the <i>Anthony</i> Hendrey or Hendey, who commenced
+ his exploration of the west in 1754; the unrelated <i>Alexander</i> Henry
+ the Elder, who journeyed between 1761 and 1776; and the nephew of the
+ last-named, Alexander Henry the Younger, whose pioneering explorations
+ occurred between 1799 and 1814.
+</p>
+
+<a name="note-8-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#8-3"><u>3</u></a> <i>The Search for the Western Sea</i>, by Lawrence J. Burpee.
+</p>
+<a name="note-8-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#8-4"><u>4</u></a> See p. <a href="#p159">159</a>.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0009"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER IX
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ The Pioneers from Montreal: Alexander Henry the Elder
+</h3>
+<p>
+ After 1763, when the two provinces of Canada were definitely ceded to
+ Great Britain, the exploring energies of the Hudson's Bay Fur-trading
+ Company revived. But before this rather sluggish organization could
+ take full advantage of the cessation of French opposition, independent
+ British pioneers were on their way to explore the vast north-west and
+ west, soon carrying their marvellous journeys beyond the utmost limits
+ reached by La Vérendrye and his sons. Eventually these pioneers, who
+ had Montreal for their base and who wisely associated themselves in
+ business and exploration with French Canadians, founded in 1784 a
+ great trading association known as the North-west Trading Company. A
+ few years later certain Scottish pioneers brought a rival exploration
+ and trading corporation into existence and called it the "X.Y.
+ Company". In 1804 these rival Montreal fur-trading associations were
+ fused into a new North-west Trading Company. Between this and the old
+ Hudson's Bay Company an intensely bitter rivalry and enmity&mdash;almost at
+ times a state of war&mdash;arose, and continued until 1821, when the
+ North-west Company and that of Hudson's Bay amalgamated. It is
+ necessary that these dry details should be understood in order that
+ the reader may comprehend the motives and reasons which prompted the
+ journeys which are about to be described.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Jonathan Carver, of Boston, U.S.A., was perhaps the pioneer of all
+ the British traders into the far west of Canada, beyond Lake Superior,
+ after Canada had been handed over to the British.<a name="9-1"></a><a href="#note-9-1"><small>[1]</small></a> In 1766-7 he
+ reached the Mississippi at its junction with the St. Peter or
+ Minnesota River, and journeyed up it to the land of the Dakota. Thomas
+ Currie, of Montreal, in 1770 travelled as far as Cedar Lake,<a name="9-2"></a><a href="#note-9-2"><small>[2]</small></a> where
+ there had been established the French post of Fort Bourbon. He was
+ succeeded the next year by James Finlay, who extended his explorations
+ to the Saskatchewan, whither he was followed by Alexander Henry the
+ Elder in 1775.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Alexander Henry (styled The Elder to distinguish him from his famous
+ nephew of the same name) was a native of New Jersey (U.S.A.), where he
+ was born in 1739. His parents were well-to-do people of the middle
+ class who are believed to have emigrated at the beginning of the
+ eighteenth century from the West of England, and to have been related
+ to Matthew Henry, the Bible commentator. Their son, Alexander,
+ received a good education, and after some commercial apprenticeship at
+ Albany (New York) came to Quebec when Canada was occupied by the
+ British in 1760; at which period he was about twenty-one years old. He
+ was in such a hurry to try a trading adventure in the country of the
+ great lakes that he ventured into central Canada before it was
+ sufficiently calmed down and reconciled to British rule. The
+ hostility, curiously enough, manifested itself much more among the
+ Amerindians than the settlers of French blood. These white men had not
+ been so well treated by the arrogant French officers and officials as
+ much to mind the change to the greater freedom of British government.
+ But the Indian chiefs and people loved the French, largely owing to
+ the goodness and solicitude of the missionaries.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The hostility of the Indians", wrote Henry in his journal, travelling
+ along the coast of Lake Huron, "was exclusively against the English.
+ Between them and my Canadian attendants, there appeared the most
+ cordial goodwill. This circumstance suggested one means of escape, of
+ which, by the advice of my friend, Campion, I resolved to attempt
+ availing myself; namely, that of putting on the dress usually worn by
+ such of the Canadians as pursue the trade into which I had entered,
+ and assimilating myself, as much as I was able, to their appearance
+ and manners. To this end I laid aside my English clothes and covered
+ myself only with a cloth passed about the middle; a shirt, hanging
+ loose; a 'molton', or blanket coat, and a large, red worsted cap. The
+ next thing was to smear my face and hands with dirt and grease; and,
+ this done, I took the place of one of my men, and, when the Indians
+ approached, used the paddle with as much skill as I possessed. I had
+ the satisfaction to find, that my disguise enabled me to pass several
+ canoes without attracting the smallest notice."
+</p>
+<p>
+ When he reached Fort Michili-makinak<a name="9-3"></a><a href="#note-9-3"><small>[3]</small></a> he wrote: "At two o'clock in
+ the afternoon, the Chipeways came to my house, about sixty in number,
+ and headed by Minaváváná, their chief. They walked in single file,
+ each with his tomahawk in one hand and scalping knife in the other.
+ Their bodies were naked from the waist upward, except in a few
+ examples, where blankets were thrown loosely over the shoulders. Their
+ faces were painted with charcoal, worked up with grease; their bodies,
+ with white clay, in patterns of various fancies. Some had feathers
+ thrust through their noses, and their heads decorated with the
+ same.... It is unnecessary to dwell on the sensations with which I
+ beheld the approach of this uncouth, if not frightful assemblage.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The chief entered first, and the rest followed without noise. On
+ receiving a sign from the former, the latter seated themselves on the
+ floor.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Minaváváná appeared to be about fifty years of age. He was six feet
+ in height, and had, in his countenance, an indescribable mixture of
+ good and evil.... Looking steadfastly at me, where I sat in ceremony,
+ with an interpreter on either hand and several Canadians behind me, he
+ entered at the same time into conversation with Campion, enquiring how
+ long it was since I left Montreal, and observing that the English, as
+ it would seem, were brave men, and not afraid of death, since they
+ dared to come, as I had done, fearlessly among their enemies."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Indians now gravely smoked their pipes, whilst Henry inwardly
+ endured tortures of suspense. At length, the pipes being finished, a
+ long pause of silence followed. Then Minaváváná, taking a few strings
+ of wampum in his hand, began a long speech, of which it is only
+ necessary to give a few extracts:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Englishman, it is to you that I speak, and I demand your attention!
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Englishman, although you have conquered the French, you have not yet
+ conquered us! We are not your slaves. These lakes, these woods and
+ mountains, were left to us by our ancestors. They are our inheritance,
+ and we will part with them to none. Your nation supposes that we, like
+ the white people, cannot live without bread&mdash;and pork&mdash;and beef! But,
+ you ought to know, that He, the Great Spirit and Master of Life, has
+ provided food for us in these spacious lakes, and on these woody
+ mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Englishman, our father, the King of France, employed our young men to
+ make war upon your nation. In this warfare many of them have been
+ killed, and it is our custom to retaliate, until such time as the
+ spirits of the slain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain are
+ to be satisfied in either of two ways. The first is by the spilling of
+ the blood of the nation by which they fell; the other by covering the
+ bodies of the dead, and thus allaying the resentment of their
+ relations. This is done by making presents.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Englishman, your king has never sent us any presents, nor entered
+ into any treaty with us, wherefore he and we are still at war; and,
+ until he does these things, we must consider that we have no other
+ father, nor friend, among the white men, than the King of France; but,
+ for you, we have taken into consideration, that you have ventured your
+ life among us in the expectation that we should not molest you. You do
+ not come armed with an intention to make war; you come in peace, to
+ trade with us, and supply us with necessaries, of which we are in
+ want. We shall regard you, therefore, as a brother, and you may sleep
+ tranquilly, without fear of the Chipeways.... As a token of our
+ friendship, we present you with this pipe to smoke."
+</p>
+<p>
+ When Minaváváná had finished his harangue, an Indian presented Henry
+ with a pipe, the which, after he had drawn smoke through it three
+ times, was carried back to the chief, and after him to every person in
+ the room. This ceremony ended, the chief arose, and gave the
+ Englishman his hand, in which he was followed by all the rest.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At the Sault Ste Marie, on the river connecting Lake Superior and
+ Huron, Henry spent part of the spring of 1763-4, and engaged with a
+ few French Canadians and Indians in making maple sugar, the season for
+ which&mdash;April&mdash;was now at hand.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A temporary house for eight persons was built in a convenient part of
+ the maple woods, distant about three miles from the fort. The men
+ then gathered the bark of white birch trees, and made out of it
+ vessels to hold the sap which was to flow from the incisions they cut
+ in the bark of the maple trees. Into these cuts they introduced wooden
+ spouts or ducts, and under them were placed the birch-bark vessels.
+ When these were filled, the sweet liquid was poured into larger
+ buckets, and the buckets were emptied into bags of elkskin containing
+ perhaps a hundred gallons. Boilers (probably of metal, introduced by
+ the French) were next set up in the camp over fires kept burning day
+ and night, and the maple sap thus boiled became, by concentration,
+ maple sugar.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The women attended to all the business of sugar manufacture, while the
+ men cut wood and went out hunting and fishing to secure food for the
+ community; though, as a matter of fact, sugar and syrup were their
+ main sustenance during all this absence from home. "I have known
+ Indians", wrote Henry, "to live for a time wholly on maple sugar and
+ syrup and become fat." The sap of the maple had certain medicinal
+ qualities which were exceedingly good for persons who had previously
+ been eating little else than meat and fish, so that the three weeks of
+ sugar-boiling in Canada was, no doubt, a splendid assistance to the
+ health of the natives. On this particular occasion described by Henry,
+ the party returned, after three weeks' absence, to the Sault Ste Marie
+ with 1600 lb. of maple sugar, and 36 gallons of syrup.<a name="9-4"></a><a href="#note-9-4"><small>[4]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry returned in the summer of 1763 to Fort Michili-makinak. The
+ place was then held by a British garrison under Major Etherington.
+ Shortly after Henry's arrival, an Ojibwé chief named Wáwátam came
+ often to his lodgings, and, taking a great fancy to the Englishman,
+ asked leave to become his blood brother. He was about forty-five
+ years of age, and of an excellent character amongst his nation. He
+ warned Henry that he, Wáwátam, had had bad dreams during the winter,
+ in which he had been disturbed "by the noises of evil birds", and gave
+ him other roundabout warnings that the Indians of different tribes
+ were going to attack the British garrison at Michili-Makinak, and
+ endeavour to destroy all the English in Upper Canada. Henry did not
+ pay over much attention to this warning, because "the Indian manner of
+ speech is so extravagantly figurative".
+</p>
+<p>
+ The King's birthday was celebrated with, no doubt, somewhat tipsy
+ rejoicings in the summer of 1763. The Ojibwé Indians outside the fort
+ pretended they were going to have a great game of La Crosse with the
+ S&#257;ki or "Fox" Indians. This game was got up to find a pretext for
+ entering the fort and taking the British officers and garrison at a
+ disadvantage. Some of the officers and soldiers, suspecting nothing in
+ the way of danger, were outside the fort by the waterside. However,
+ the sport commenced, and suddenly the ball was struck over the pickets
+ of the fort. At once the Ojibwés, pretending great ardour in their
+ game, came leaping, struggling and shouting over the defences into the
+ fort as though "in the unrestrained pursuit of a rude, athletic
+ exercise". Once inside the fortifications, they attacked the
+ unsuspicious and unarmed soldiers and officers, of whom they killed
+ seventy out of ninety.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry had not gone with the others, but had stayed in his room writing
+ letters. Suddenly he heard the Indian warcry and a noise of general
+ confusion. Looking out of his window he saw a crowd of Indians inside
+ the fort furiously cutting down and scalping every Englishman they
+ could reach. Meantime, the French Canadian inhabitants of the fort
+ looked on calmly, neither intervening to stop the Indians, nor
+ suffering any injury from them. Realizing that all his fellow
+ countrymen were practically destroyed, Henry endeavoured to hide
+ himself. He entered the house of his next-door neighbour, a Frenchman,
+ and found the whole family at the windows gazing at the scene of blood
+ before them. He implored this Frenchman to put him into some place of
+ safety until the massacre was over. The latter merely shrugged his
+ shoulders and intimated that he could do nothing for him; but a Pani
+ Indian woman, a slave of this Frenchman, beckoned to Henry to follow
+ her, and hid him in a garret. Then the Indians burst into the house
+ and asked the Frenchman if he had got any Englishmen concealed, the
+ latter returned an evasive answer, telling them to search for
+ themselves. Henry hid himself under a heap of birch-bark vessels,
+ which were used in maple-sugar manufacture. The door was unlocked, the
+ four Indians dashed in, their bodies covered with blood, and armed
+ with tomahawks. The hidden man thought that the throbbing of his heart
+ must make a noise loud enough to betray him. The Indians searched the
+ garret, and one of them approached Henry so closely as almost to touch
+ him; yet he remained undiscovered, possibly owing to the dark colour
+ of his clothes and the dim light in the room. Then the Indians, after
+ describing to the Frenchman how many they had killed and scalped,
+ returned downstairs, and the door was locked behind them.
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the next day the Indians insisted on a further search, and,
+ regarding every attempt at concealment as vain, Henry, by a desperate
+ resolve, rose from his bed and presented himself in full view to the
+ Indians as they entered the room. They were all in a state of
+ intoxication and entirely naked. One of them, upwards of six feet in
+ height, had all his face and body covered with charcoal and grease,
+ but with a large white ring encircling each of his eyes. This man,
+ walking up to Henry, seized him with one hand by the collar of his
+ coat, and in the other held up a large carving knife, making a feint
+ as if to plunge it into his breast, his eyes meanwhile fixed
+ steadfastly on those of the Englishman. At length, after some seconds
+ of the most anxious suspense, he dropped Henry's arm, saying: "I won't
+ kill you," adding that he had often fought in war with the English and
+ brought away many scalps, but that on a certain occasion he had lost a
+ brother whose name was Musinigon, and that he would adopt Henry in his
+ place.
+</p>
+<p>
+ One would like the story to have stopped here at this happy turn of
+ events, but Wenniway (as this saviour of Henry was called) entertained
+ a very fickle regard for his adopted brother, and, though he once or
+ twice intervened, subsequently took no great pains to see that his
+ life was spared. However, for the time being he was reprieved, and
+ regarded Wenniway as his "master". Nevertheless, he was soon haled out
+ of the house by another Indian, apparently coming with Wenniway's
+ authority. This man ordered him to undress, and then took away all his
+ clothes, giving him such dirty rags or strips of leather as he
+ possessed himself. He frankly owned that his motive for stripping him
+ was that, as he wished afterwards to kill him, Henry's clothes might
+ not be stained with blood! With the intention of assassinating him, in
+ fact, he dragged Henry along to a region of bushes and sandhills, and
+ then produced a knife and attempted to execute his purpose. But with
+ the rage and strength of absolute despair Henry wrenched himself free,
+ pushed his would-be murderer on one side, and ran for his life towards
+ the fort.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here Wenniway rather indifferently helped him to take refuge in the
+ house of the Frenchman in which he had formerly hidden, but the same
+ night he was roused from sleep and ordered to come below, where to his
+ surprise he found himself in the presence of three of the British
+ officers who had formerly commanded in this fort, and who were now
+ prisoners of the Ojibwés. The Indian chiefs for the time being had
+ handed these men over to the surveillance of the French Canadians,
+ together with the seventeen surviving English soldiers and traders.
+ Henry, like the others, was almost without clothes. The French
+ Canadian in whose house he had taken refuge refused to give him as
+ much as a blanket, but another Canadian, less indifferent to the
+ sufferings of a fellow white man, did give him a blanket, but for
+ which he would certainly have perished from cold.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next day he and the other English prisoners were embarked in
+ canoes and taken away to Lake Michigan. On reaching the mouth of that
+ lake, at the Beaver Islands, the Ojibwé canoes, on account of the fog,
+ were obliged to approach the lands of the Ottawa Indians. These last
+ suddenly seized the canoes as they entered shallow water, and
+ professed great indignation at the capture of Fort Michili-Makinak and
+ the slaughter of the Englishmen. They declared their intention of
+ saving the survivors, and charged the Ojibwés with being about to kill
+ and eat them. By the Ottawa Indians, therefore, the twenty Englishmen
+ were carried back again and deposited in Fort Michili-Makinak, which
+ was now taken possession of by the Ottawas. The English were still
+ held as prisoners. After hearing all the Ojibwés had to say, and
+ receiving from them large presents, the Ottawas finally decided to
+ restore their English prisoners to the Ojibwés, who consequently took
+ them away with ropes tied round their necks, and put them into an
+ Indian habitation. Here, as they were starving, they were offered
+ loaves of bread, but with the horrible accompaniment of seeing the
+ slices cut with knives still covered with the blood of the murdered
+ English. The Ojibwés moistened this blood on the knife blades with
+ their spittle, and rubbed it on the slices of bread, offering this
+ food then to their prisoners, so that they might force them to eat the
+ blood of their countrymen.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next morning, however, there appeared before Ménéhewéhná, the
+ great war chief of the Ojibwés, Henry's friend and adopted brother,
+ Wáwátam. This man made an earnest speech to the council of Ojibwé
+ chiefs and braves, in which he pleaded hard for the Englishman's life,
+ at the same time tendering from out of his own goods a considerable
+ ransom. After much pipe-smoking and an embarrassing silence, the war
+ chief rose to his feet and accepted the ransom, giving Wáwátam
+ permission to take away into safety his adopted brother. "Wáwátam led
+ me to his lodge, which was at the distance of a few yards only from
+ the prison lodge. My entrance appeared to give joy to the whole
+ family; food was immediately prepared for me; and I now ate the first
+ hearty meal which I had made since my capture. I found myself one of
+ the family; and, but that I had still my fears as to the other
+ Indians, I felt as happy as the situation could allow."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next day seven of the English prisoners were killed by the
+ Ojibwés, and Henry actually saw their dead bodies being dragged out
+ into the open. They had been killed in cold blood by an Indian chief
+ who had just arrived from a hunting expedition, and who, not having
+ been present at the attack on the fort, now desired to satisfy his
+ warlike instincts and his agreement with the policy of the Ojibwés by
+ going into the lodge where the English officers and men were tied up,
+ and slaughtering seven of them in cold blood.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Shortly afterwards two of the Ojibwés took the fattest amongst the
+ dead men, cut off his head, and divided his body into five parts, one
+ of which was put into each of five kettles hung over as many fires,
+ which were kindled for this purpose at the door of the house in which
+ the other prisoners were tied up. They then sent to insist on the
+ attendance at their cannibal feast of Wáwátam, the adopted brother and
+ protector of Henry. The invitation was delivered after the Amerindian
+ fashion. A small cutting of cedar wood about four inches in length
+ supplies the place of the written or printed invitation to dinner of
+ European civilization, and the man who bore the slip of cedar wood
+ gave particulars as to place and time by word of mouth. Guests on
+ these occasions were expected to bring their own dish and spoon.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In spite of repugnance, Wáwátam, to save his life and that of Henry,
+ was obliged to go. He returned after an absence of half an hour,
+ bringing back in his dish the portion given to him&mdash;a human hand and a
+ large piece of flesh. His objection to eat this gruesome food was
+ apparently not very deep or persistent. He excused the custom by
+ saying that amongst all Amerindian nations there existed this practice
+ of making a war feast from out of the bodies of the slain after a
+ successful battle.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Soon after this episode of horror the Ojibwés abandoned Fort
+ Michili-Makinak, for fear the English should come to attack it. Henry
+ was hidden by his adopted brother, Wáwátam, in a cave, where he found
+ himself by the light of the next morning sleeping on a bed of human
+ bones, which the night before he had taken to be twigs and boughs. The
+ whole of the cave was, in fact, filled with these human remains. No
+ one knew or remembered the reason. Henry thought that the cave had
+ been an ancient receptacle for the bones of persons who had been
+ sacrificed and devoured at war feasts; for, however contemptuous they
+ may be of the flesh, the Amerindians paid particular attention
+ to the bones of human beings&mdash;whether friends, relations, or
+ enemies&mdash;preserving them unbroken, and depositing them in some
+ place kept exclusively for that purpose.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The great chief of the Ojibwés, however, advised that Henry, who had
+ rejoined Wáwátam, should be dressed in disguise as an Indian to save
+ him from any further harm, for the natives all round about were
+ preparing for what they believed to be an inevitable war with the
+ English.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I could not but consent to the proposal, and the chief was so kind as
+ to assist my friend and his family in effecting that very day the
+ desired metamorphosis. My hair was cut off, and my head shaved, with
+ the exception of a spot on the crown, of about twice the diameter of a
+ crown piece. My face was painted with three or four different colours;
+ some parts of it red, and others black. A shirt was provided for me,
+ painted with vermilion, mixed with grease. A large collar of wampum<a name="9-5"></a><a href="#note-9-5"><small>[5]</small></a>
+ was put round my neck, and another suspended on my breast. Both my
+ arms were decorated with large bands of silver above the elbow,
+ besides several smaller ones on the wrists; and my legs were covered
+ with <i>mitasses</i>, a kind of hose, made, as is the favourite fashion, of
+ scarlet cloth. Over all I was to wear a scarlet blanket or mantle, and
+ on my head a large bunch of feathers. I parted, not without some
+ regret, with the long hair which was natural to it, and which I
+ fancied to be ornamental; but the ladies of the family, and of the
+ village in general, appeared to think my person improved, and now
+ condescended to call me handsome, even among Indians."
+</p>
+<p>
+ He then went away to live with his protectors, and with them passed a
+ by no means unhappy autumn, winter, and spring, hunting and fishing.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here are some of his adventures at this period.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "To kill beaver, we used to go several miles up the rivers, before the
+ approach of night, and after the dusk came on, suffer the canoe to
+ drift gently down the current, without noise. The beavers, in this
+ part of the evening, come abroad to procure food, or materials for
+ repairing their habitations, and as they are not alarmed by the canoe,
+ they often pass it within gunshot.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "On entering the River Aux Sables, Wáwátam took a dog, tied its feet
+ together, and threw it into the stream, uttering, at the same time, a
+ long prayer, which he addressed to the Great Spirit, supplicating his
+ blessing on the chase, and his aid in the support of the family,
+ through the dangers of a long winter. Our 'lodge' was fifteen miles
+ above the mouth of the stream. The principal animals, which the
+ country afforded, were red deer (wapiti), the common American deer,
+ the bear, racoon, beaver, and marten.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The beaver feeds in preference on young wood of the birch, aspen, and
+ poplar tree<a name="9-6"></a><a href="#note-9-6"><small>[6]</small></a>; but, in defect of these, on any other tree, those of
+ the pine and fir kinds excepted. These latter it employs only for
+ building its dams and houses. In wide meadows, where no wood is to be
+ found, it resorts, for all its purposes, to the roots of the rush and
+ water lily. It consumes great quantities of food, whether of roots or
+ wood; and hence often reduces itself to the necessity of removing into
+ a new quarter. Its house has an arched dome-like roof, of an
+ elliptical figure, and rises from three to four feet above the surface
+ of the water. It is always entirely surrounded by water; but, in the
+ banks adjacent, the animal provides holes or <i>washes</i>, of which the
+ entrance is below the surface, and to which it retreats on the first
+ alarm.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The female beaver usually produces two young at a time, but not
+ unfrequently more. During the first year, the young remain with their
+ parents. In the second, they occupy an adjoining apartment, and assist
+ in building, and in procuring food. At two years old, they part, and
+ build houses of their own; but often rove about for a considerable
+ time before they fix upon a spot. There are beavers, called, by the
+ Indians, <i>old bachelors</i>, who live by themselves, build no houses, and
+ work at no dams, but shelter themselves in holes. The usual method of
+ taking these is by traps, formed of iron, or logs, and baited with
+ branches of poplar.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "According to the Indians, the beaver is much given to jealousy. If a
+ strange male approaches the cabin, a battle immediately ensues. Of
+ this the female remains an unconcerned spectator, careless as to which
+ party the law of conquest may assign her. The Indians add that the
+ male is as constant as he is jealous, never attaching himself to more
+ than one female.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The most common way of taking the beaver is that of breaking up its
+ house, which is done with trenching tools, during the winter, when the
+ ice is strong enough to allow of approaching them; and when, also, the
+ fur is in its most valuable state.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Breaking up the house, however, is only a preparatory step. During
+ this operation, the family make their escape to one or more of their
+ <i>washes</i>. These are to be discovered by striking the ice along the
+ bank, and where the holes are, a hollow sound is returned. After
+ discovering and searching many of these in vain, we often heard the
+ whole family together in the same wash. I was taught occasionally to
+ distinguish a full wash from an empty one, by the motion of the water
+ above its entrance, occasioned by the breathing of the animals
+ concealed in it. From the washes, they must be taken out with the
+ hands; and in doing this, the hunter sometimes receives severe wounds
+ from their teeth. Whilst I was a hunter with the Indians, I thought
+ beaver flesh was very good; but after that of the ox was again within
+ my reach, I could not relish it. The tail is accounted a luxurious
+ morsel.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "One evening, on my return from hunting, I found the fire put out, and
+ the opening in the top of the lodge covered over with skins&mdash;by this
+ means excluding, as much as possible, external light. I further
+ observed that the ashes were removed from the fireplace, and that dry
+ sand was spread where they had been. Soon after, a fire was made
+ withoutside the cabin, in the open air, and a kettle hung over it to
+ boil.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I now supposed that a feast was in preparation. I supposed so only,
+ for it would have been indecorous to enquire into the meaning of what
+ I saw. No person, among the Indians themselves, would use this
+ freedom. Good breeding requires that the spectator should patiently
+ wait the result.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "As soon as the darkness of night had arrived, the family, including
+ myself, were invited into the lodge. I was now requested not to speak,
+ as a feast was about to be given to the dead, whose spirits delight in
+ uninterrupted silence.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "As we entered, each was presented with his wooden dish and spoon,
+ after receiving which we seated ourselves. The door was next shut, and
+ we remained in perfect darkness.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The master of the family was the master of the feast. Still in the
+ dark, he asked everyone, by turn, for his dish, and put into each two
+ boiled ears of maize. The whole being served, he began to speak. In
+ his discourse, which lasted half an hour, he called upon the manes of
+ his deceased relations and friends, beseeching them to be present, to
+ assist him in the chase, and to partake of the food which he had
+ prepared for them. When he had ended, we proceeded to eat our maize,
+ which we did without other noise than what was occasioned by our
+ teeth. The maize was not half boiled, and it took me an hour to
+ consume my share. I was requested not to break the spikes,<a name="9-7"></a><a href="#note-9-7"><small>[7]</small></a> as this
+ would be displeasing to the departed spirits of their friends.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When all was eaten, Wáwátam made another speech, with which the
+ ceremony ended. A new fire was kindled, with fresh sparks, from flint
+ and steel; and the pipes being smoked, the spikes were carefully
+ buried, in a hole made in the ground for that purpose, within the
+ lodge. This done, the whole family began a dance, Wáwátam singing, and
+ beating a drum. The dance continued the greater part of the night, to
+ the great pleasure of the lodge. The night of the feast was that of
+ the first day of November."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the month of January, Henry happened to observe that the trunk of a
+ very large pine tree was much torn by the claws of a bear, made both
+ in going up and down. On further examination he saw there was a large
+ opening, in the upper part, near which the smaller branches were
+ broken. From these marks, and from the additional circumstances that
+ there were no tracks on the snow, there was reason to believe that a
+ bear lay concealed in the tree.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He communicated his discovery to his Indian friends, and it was agreed
+ that all the family should go together in the morning to cut down the
+ tree, the girth of which was not less than eighteen feet! This task
+ occupied them for one and a half days with their poor little axes,
+ till about two o'clock in the second afternoon the tree fell to the
+ ground. For a few minutes everything remained quiet, and Henry feared
+ that all his expectations would be disappointed; but, as he advanced
+ to the opening, there came out a female bear of extraordinary size,
+ which he had shot and killed before she had proceeded many yards.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The bear being dead, all my assistants approached, and all, but more
+ particularly my old mother, (as I was won't to call her), took the
+ bear's head in their hands, stroking and kissing it several times;
+ begging a thousand pardons for taking away her life; calling her their
+ relation and grandmother; and requesting her not to lay the fault upon
+ them, since it was truly an Englishman that had put her to death.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "This ceremony was not of long duration; and if it was I that killed
+ their grandmother, they were not themselves behindhand in what
+ remained to be performed. The skin being taken off, we found the fat
+ in several places six inches deep. This, being divided into two parts,
+ loaded two persons; and the flesh parts were as much as four persons
+ could carry. In all, the carcass must have exceeded five
+ hundredweight.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "As soon as we reached the lodge, the bear's head was adorned with all
+ the trinkets in the possession of the family, such as silver armbands
+ and wristbands, and belts of wampum; and then laid upon a scaffold,
+ set up for its reception, within the lodge. Near the nose was placed a
+ large quantity of tobacco.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The next morning no sooner appeared, than preparations were made for
+ a feast to the manes. The lodge was cleaned and swept; and the head of
+ the bear lifted up, and a new Stroud blanket, which had never been
+ used before, spread under it. The pipes were now lit; and Wáwátam blew
+ tobacco smoke into the nostrils of the bear, telling me to do the
+ same, and thus appease the anger of the bear, on account of my having
+ killed her.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "At length, the feast being ready, Wáwátam commenced a speech,
+ resembling, in many things, his address to the manes of his relations
+ and departed companions; but, having this peculiarity, that he here
+ deplored the necessity under which men laboured, thus to destroy their
+ <i>friends</i>. He represented, however, that the misfortune was
+ unavoidable, since without doing so, they could by no means subsist.
+ The speech ended, we all ate heartily of the bear's flesh; and even
+ the head itself, after remaining three days on the scaffold, was put
+ into the kettle. The fat of our bear was melted down, and the oil
+ filled six porcupine-skin bags. A part of the meat was cut into
+ strips, and fire-dried, after which it was put into the vessels
+ containing the oil, where it remained in perfect preservation, until
+ the middle of summer."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the spring of 1762 Henry once more returned to Fort
+ Michili-Makinak, and went sugar-making with his Indian companions.
+ Whilst engaged in this agreeable task, a child belonging to one of the
+ party fell into a kettle of boiling syrup. It was instantly snatched
+ out, but with little hope of its recovery. So long, however, as it
+ lived, a continual feast was observed; and this was made "to the Great
+ Spirit and Master of Life", that he might be pleased to save and heal
+ the child. At this feast Henry was a constant guest; and often found
+ some difficulty in eating the large quantity of food which, on such
+ occasions as these, was put upon his dish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Several sacrifices were also offered; among which were dogs, killed
+ and hung upon the tops of poles, with the addition of blankets and
+ other articles. These, also, were yielded to the Great Spirit, in the
+ humble hope that he would give efficacy to the medicines employed. But
+ the child died. To preserve the body from the wolves it was placed
+ upon a scaffold, and then later carried to the borders of a lake, on
+ the border of which was the burial ground of the family.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "On our arrival there, which happened in the beginning of April, I did
+ not fail to attend the funeral. The grave was made of a large size,
+ and the whole of the inside lined with birch bark. On the bark was
+ laid the body of the child, accompanied with an axe, a pair of
+ snowshoes, a small kettle, several pairs of common shoes, its own
+ strings of beads, and&mdash;because it was a girl&mdash;a carrying belt and a
+ paddle. The kettle was filled with meat. All this was again covered
+ with bark; and at about two feet nearer the surface logs were laid
+ across, and these again covered with bark, so that the earth might by
+ no means fall upon the corpse.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The last act before the burial, performed by the mother, crying over
+ the dead body of her child, was that of taking from it a lock of hair
+ for a memorial. While <a name="p230"></a>she did this, I endeavoured to console her by
+ offering the usual arguments: that the child was happy in being
+ released from the miseries of this present life, and that she should
+ forbear to grieve, because it would be restored to her in another
+ world, happy and everlasting. She answered that she knew it, and that
+ by the lock of hair she should discover her daughter; for she would
+ take it with her. In this she alluded to the day when some pious hand
+ would place in her own grave, along with the carrying belt and paddle,
+ this little relic, hallowed by maternal tears."
+</p>
+<p>
+ After many ups and downs of hope and despair, and many narrow escapes
+ of being killed and made into broth for warlike Ojibwés, Henry at
+ length obtained permission to travel with a party of Ojibwé Indians
+ who were invited to visited Sir William Johnson at Niagara. This
+ British Governor of Canada was attempting to enter into friendly
+ relations with the Amerindian tribes, and induce them to accept
+ quietly the transference of Canada from French to English control.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0013"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc13.jpg" width="450" height="286"
+alt="Scene on Canadian River: Wild Swans Flying up Disturbed
+By Bear">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>SCENE ON CANADIAN RIVER: WILD SWANS FLYING UP DISTURBED BY BEAR</h5>
+<p>
+ Before starting, however, to interview this great White Governor, the
+ Ojibwés decided to consult their oracle, the Great Turtle, after which
+ Fort Michili-Makinak was named.<a name="9-8"></a><a href="#note-9-8"><small>[8]</small></a> Behind Fort Michili-Makinak is an
+ extraordinary mound or hill of stone supposed to resemble this reptile
+ exactly, and in fact to be in some way the residence of a supernatural
+ giant turtle.
+</p>
+<p>
+ For invoking and consulting the Great Turtle, the first thing to be
+ done was to build a large house, within which was placed a kind of
+ tent, for the use of the priest and reception of the spirit. The tent
+ was formed of moose skins, hung over a framework of wood made out of
+ five pillars of five different species of timber, about ten feet in
+ height and eight inches in diameter, set up in a circle of four feet
+ in diameter, with their bases two feet deep in the soil. At the top
+ the pillars were bound together by a circular hoop of withies. Over
+ the whole of this edifice were spread the moose skins, covering it at
+ top and round the sides, and made fast with thongs of the same, except
+ that on one side a part was left unfastened, to admit of the entrance
+ of the priest.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The ceremonies did not commence till the approach of night. To give
+ light inside the house several fires were kindled round the tent.
+ Nearly the whole village assembled in the house, Alexander Henry among
+ the rest. It was not long before the priest appeared, almost in a
+ state of nakedness. As he approached the tent the skins were lifted
+ up, as much as was necessary to allow of his creeping under them on
+ his hands and knees. His head was scarcely within side when the
+ edifice, massive as it has been described, began to shake; and the
+ skins were no sooner let fall than the sounds of numerous voices were
+ heard beneath them&mdash;some yelling, some barking as dogs, some howling
+ like wolves; and in this horrible concert were mingled screams and
+ sobs of despair, anguish, and the sharpest pain. Articulate speech was
+ also uttered, as if from human lips, but in a tongue unknown to any of
+ the audience.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After some time these confused and frightful noises were succeeded by
+ a perfect silence; and now a voice, not heard before, seemed to
+ manifest the arrival of a new character in the tent. This was low and
+ feeble, resembling the cry of a young puppy. The sound was no sooner
+ distinguished than all the Indians clapped their hands for joy,
+ exclaiming that this was the Chief Spirit, the Turtle, the Spirit that
+ never lied! Other voices, which they had distinguished from time to
+ time, they had previously hissed, as recognizing them to belong to
+ evil and lying spirits, the deceivers of mankind.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Then came from the tent a succession of songs, in which a diversity
+ of voices met the ear. From his first entrance, till these songs were
+ finished, we heard nothing in the proper voice of the priest. But now
+ he addressed the multitude, declaring the presence of the Great
+ Turtle, and the spirit's readiness to answer such questions as should
+ be proposed. The questions were to come from the chief of the village,
+ who was silent, however, till after he had put a large quantity of
+ tobacco into the tent, introducing it at the aperture. This was a
+ sacrifice offered to the spirit; for the spirits were supposed by the
+ Indians to be as fond of tobacco as themselves. This done, the chief
+ desired the priest to enquire: Whether or not the English were
+ preparing to make war upon the Indians? and whether or not there were
+ at Fort Niagara a large number of English troops?
+</p>
+<p>
+ The priest was heard to put the questions, and then the tent shook and
+ rocked so violently that Henry expected to see it levelled with the
+ ground. But apparently answers were given, after which a terrific cry
+ announced, with sufficient intelligibility, the departure of the
+ Turtle. Subsequently the priest interpreted the Great Turtle's
+ answers, which gave a great deal of information regarding the
+ disposition and numbers of the English soldiers, and the presents
+ which Sir William Johnson was preparing for the Ojibwés; and which
+ finally approved the wisdom of the embassy proceeding on its way.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Journeying along the shores of Lake Huron, they stopped to avoid a
+ gale of wind and to rest. Henry, gathering firewood, disturbed a
+ rattlesnake which manifested hostile intentions. He went back to the
+ canoe to fetch his gun; but upon telling the Ojibwés that he was about
+ to kill a rattlesnake they begged him to desist. They then seized
+ their pipes and tobacco pouches and returned with him to the place
+ where he had left the rattlesnake, which was still coiled up and
+ angry.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The Indians, on their part, surrounded it, all addressing it by
+ turns, and calling it their <i>grandfather</i>; but yet keeping at some
+ distance. During this part of the ceremony they filled their pipes;
+ and now each blew the smoke towards the snake, who, as it appeared to
+ me, really received it with pleasure. In a word, after remaining
+ coiled, and receiving incense for the space of half an hour, it
+ stretched itself along the ground, in visible good humour. Its length
+ was between four and five feet. Having remained outstretched for some
+ time, at last it moved slowly away, the Indians following it, and
+ still addressing it by the title of grandfather, beseeching it to take
+ care of their families during their absence, and to be pleased to open
+ the heart of Sir William Johnson, so that he might <i>show them
+ charity</i>, and fill their canoe with rum.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "One of the chiefs added a petition, that the snake would take no
+ notice of the insult which had been offered him by the Englishman, who
+ would even have put him to death, but for the interference of the
+ Indians, to whom it was hoped he would impute no part of the offence."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Early the next morning they proceeded on their way, with a serene sky
+ and very little wind, so that to shorten the journey they determined
+ to steer across the lake to an island which just appeared on the
+ horizon. But after hoisting a sail the wind increased, and the
+ Indians, beginning to be alarmed, frequently called on the rattlesnake
+ to come to their assistance. By degrees the waves grew high, and at
+ last it blew a hurricane, Henry and his companions expecting every
+ moment to be swallowed up. From prayers the Indians now proceeded to
+ sacrifices, both alike offered to the god-rattlesnake, or
+ <i>manito-kinibik</i>. One of the chiefs took a dog, and, after tying its
+ fore legs together, threw it overboard, at the same time calling on
+ the snake to preserve the party from being drowned, and desiring him
+ to satisfy his hunger with the carcass of the dog. The snake was
+ unpropitious, and the wind increased. Another chief sacrificed
+ another dog, with the addition of some tobacco. In the prayer which
+ accompanied these gifts he besought the snake, as before, not to
+ avenge upon the Indians the insult which he had received from the
+ Englishman. "He assured the snake that I was <i>absolutely</i> an
+ Englishman, and of kin neither to him nor to them."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "At the conclusion of this speech, an Indian, who sat near me,
+ observed, that if we were drowned it would be for my fault alone, and
+ that I ought myself to be sacrificed, to appease the angry manito; nor
+ was I without apprehensions, that in case of extremity this would be
+ my fate; but, happily for me, the storm at length abated, and we
+ reached the island safely."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next day they arrived at the shore of Lake Ontario. Here they
+ remained two days to make canoes out of the bark of the elm tree, in
+ which they might travel to Niagara. For this purpose the Indians first
+ cut down a tree, then stripped off the bark in one entire sheet of
+ about eighteen feet in length, the incision being lengthwise. The
+ canoe was now complete as to its bottom and sides. Its ends were next
+ closed, by sewing the bark together; and a few ribs and bars being
+ introduced, the architecture was finished. In this manner they made
+ two canoes; of which one carried eight men, and the other nine.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A few days later Henry was handed over safe and sound to Sir William
+ Johnson at Niagara. He was then given the command of a corps of Indian
+ allies which was to accompany the expedition under General Bradstreet
+ to raise the siege of Detroit, which important place had been long
+ invested by a great Indian chief, Pontiac, who still carried on the
+ war on behalf of King Louis XV. This enterprise was successful, and
+ British control was extended to many places in central Canada. Henry
+ returned to Fort Michili-Makinak and regained much of the property
+ which he had lost in the Indian attacks. As some compensation for his
+ former sufferings he received from the British commandant of
+ Michili-Makinak the exclusive fur trade of Lake Superior.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The currency at that period, and long before, in Canadian history, was
+ in beaver skins, which were approximately valued at the price of two
+ shillings and sixpence a pound. Otter skins were valued at six
+ shillings each, and marten skins at one shilling and sixpence, and
+ others in proportion; but all these things were classed at being worth
+ so many beaver skins or proportion of beaver skins. Thus, for example,
+ the native canoemen and porters engaged by Henry for his winter hunts
+ were paid each at the rate of a hundred pounds weight of beaver
+ skins.<a name="9-9"></a><a href="#note-9-9"><small>[9]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ At various places on the River Ontonagan, which flows into Lake
+ Superior, Henry was shown the extraordinary deposits of copper, which
+ presented itself to the eye in masses of various weight. The natives
+ smelted the copper and beat it into spoons and bracelets. It was so
+ absolutely pure of any alloy that it required nothing but to be beaten
+ into shape. In one place Henry saw a mass of copper weighing not less
+ than five tons, pure and malleable, so that with an axe he was able to
+ cut off a portion weighing a hundred pounds. He conjectured that this
+ huge mass of copper had at some time been dislodged from the side of a
+ lofty hill and thence rolled into the position where he found it.
+ Farther to the north of Lake Superior he found pieces of virgin copper
+ remarkable for their form, some resembling leaves of vegetables, and
+ others the shapes of animals.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In these journeys he collected some of the native traditions, amongst
+ others that of the Great Hare, Naniboju, who was represented to him as
+ the founder or creator of the Amerindian peoples. An island in Lake
+ Superior was called Naniboju's burial place. Henry landed there, and
+ "found on the projecting rocks a quantity of tobacco, rotting in the
+ rain; together with kettles, broken guns, and a variety of other
+ articles. His spirit is supposed to make this its constant residence;
+ and here to preside over the lake, and over the Indians, in their
+ navigation and fishing."
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the spring of the following year (1768), whilst the snow still lay
+ many feet thick on the ground, he and his men made sugar from the
+ maple trees on a mountain, and for nearly three weeks none of them ate
+ anything but maple sugar, consuming a pound a day, desiring no other
+ food, and waxing fat and strong on this diet. Then they returned to
+ the banks of the Ontonagan River, where the wild fowl appeared in such
+ abundance that one man, with a muzzle-loading gun, could kill in a day
+ sufficient birds for the sustenance of fifty men. As soon as the ice
+ and snow had melted, parties of Indians came in from their winter's
+ hunt, bringing to Henry furs to pay him for all the goods he had
+ advanced. In this way the whole of his outstanding credit was
+ satisfied, with the exception of thirty skins, which represented the
+ contribution due from one Indian who had died. In this case even, the
+ man's family had sent all the skins they could gather together, and
+ gradually acquitted themselves of the amount due, in order that the
+ spirit of the dead man might rest in peace, which it could not do if
+ his debts were not acquitted.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the following autumn he had an experience which showed him how near
+ famine was to great abundance, and how ready the Amerindians were in
+ cases of even slight privation to turn cannibal, kill and eat the
+ weaker members of the party. He was making an excursion to the Sault
+ de Sainte Marie, and took with him three half-breed Canadians and a
+ young Indian woman who was journeying in that direction to see her
+ relations. As the distance was short, and they expected to obtain much
+ fish by the way, they only took with them as provisions a quart of
+ maize for each person. On the first night of their journey they
+ encamped on the island of Naniboju and set their net to catch fish.
+ But there arose a violent storm, which continued for three days,
+ during which it was impossible for them to take up the net or to leave
+ the island. In consequence of this they ate up all their maize. On the
+ evening of the third day the storm abated, and they rushed to examine
+ the net. It was gone! It was impossible to return to the point of
+ their departure, where there would have been plenty of food, on
+ account of the strong wind against them. They therefore steered for
+ the Sault de Sainte Marie. But the wind veered round, and for nine
+ days blew a strong gale against their progress in this direction,
+ making the waves of the lake so high that they were obliged to take
+ refuge on the shore.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry went out perpetually to hunt, but all he got during those nine
+ days were two small snow-buntings. The Canadian half-breeds with him
+ then calmly proposed to kill and feed upon the young woman. One of
+ these men, indeed, admitted that he had had recourse to
+ this expedient for sustaining life when wintering in the north-west
+ and running out of food. But Henry indignantly repudiated the
+ suggestion. Though very weak, he searched everywhere desperately for
+ food, and at last found on a very high rock a thick lichen, called by
+ the French Canadians <i>tripe de roche</i>,<a name="9-10"></a><a href="#note-9-10"><small>[10]</small></a> looking, in fact, very much
+ like slices of tripe. Henry fetched the men and the Indian woman, and
+ they set to work gathering quantities of this lichen. The woman was
+ well acquainted with the mode of preparing it, which was done by
+ boiling it into a thick mucilage, looking rather like the white of an
+ egg. On this they made hearty meals, though it had a bitter and
+ disagreeable taste. After the ninth day of their sufferings the wind
+ fell, they continued their journey, and met with kindly Indians, who
+ supplied them with as many fish as they wanted. Nevertheless, they all
+ were so ill afterwards that they nearly died, from the effects of the
+ lichen diet.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Some time after this Henry resolved to search for the marvellous
+ island of Yellow Sands,<a name="9-11"></a><a href="#note-9-11"><small>[11]</small></a> an island of Lake Superior which, it is
+ true, the French had discovered, but about which they kept up a good
+ deal of mystery. The Indian legend was that the sands of this small
+ island consisted of gold dust, and the Ojibwé Indians, having
+ discovered this, and attempting to bring some away, they were
+ disturbed by a supernatural being of amazing size, sixty feet in
+ height, which strode into the water and commanded them to deliver back
+ what they had taken away. Terrified at his gigantic stature, they
+ complied with his request, since which time no Indian has ever dared
+ to approach the haunted coast. Henry, however, with his men, finally
+ discovered this Island of Yellow Sands in 1771, in the north-east part
+ of Lake Superior. It was much smaller than he had been led to expect,
+ and very low and studded with small lakes, probably made by the action
+ of beavers damming up the little streams. He found no supernatural
+ monster to dispute the island with him, but a number of large
+ reindeer, so unused to the sight of man that they scarcely got out of
+ his way, so that he was able to shoot as many as he wanted. The
+ ancestors of these reindeer may have reached the island either by
+ floating ice or by swimming. They seem, with the birds, to have been
+ the island's only inhabitants, and to have increased and multiplied to
+ a remarkable extent, small portions of the island's surface being
+ actually formed of immense accumulations of reindeer bones.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Amongst the birds of the island, besides geese and pigeons, were
+ hawks. No serpents whatever were seen by the party, but Henry remarks
+ that the hawks nearly made up for them in abundance and ferocity. They
+ appeared very angry at the intrusion of these strangers on the sacred
+ island, and hovered round perpetually, swooping at their faces and
+ even carrying off their caps.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1775 Henry, having been greatly disappointed over an attempt to
+ work the copper of Lake Superior, entered with vigour into a fur trade
+ with the north-west. He penetrated from Lake Superior to the Lake of
+ the Woods and reached the great Lake Winnipeg. Here he encountered the
+ Kristino,<a name="9-12"></a><a href="#note-9-12"><small>[12]</small></a> Knistino, or Kri Indians. He found these people very
+ different in appearance from the other Amerindian tribes farther
+ south. The men were almost entirely naked in spite of the much colder
+ climate. Their bodies were painted with an ochre or clay so red that
+ it was locally known by the French Canadians as vermilion. Every man
+ and boy had his bow strung and in his hand, with the arrow, ready to
+ attack in case of need. Their heads were shaved all over except for a
+ large spot on the crown. Here the hair grew very long, and was rolled
+ and gathered into a tuft; and this tuft, which was the object of the
+ greatest care, was covered with a piece of skin. The lobes of their
+ ears were pierced, and through the opening was inserted the bones of
+ fish or small beasts. The women wore their hair in great length all
+ over the head. It was divided by a parting, and on each side was
+ collected into a roll fastened above the ear and covered with a piece
+ of painted skin or ornamented with beads. The clothing of the women
+ was of leather, the dressed skins of buffalo or deer. This cloak was
+ fastened round the waist by a girdle, and the legs were covered with
+ leather gaiters. The Kristino men were eager that their women should
+ marry Europeans, because the half-breed children proved to be bolder
+ warriors and better hunters than themselves. Henry found that although
+ the Kris were much addicted to drunkenness they were peaceable when
+ inebriated, and, moreover, detached two of their number, who refused
+ ever to touch the liquor under such circumstances, in order that they
+ might guard the white men, and not allow any drunken Indian to
+ approach their camp.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry and his party, after crossing Lake Winnipeg, ascended the
+ Saskatchewan (in the autumn of 1775). On their way up this river they
+ came to a village of Paskwaya Indians, which consisted of thirty
+ families, who were lodged in tents of a circular form, composed of
+ dressed bison skins stretched upon poles twelve feet in length. On
+ their arrival the chief of this village, named Chatik, which name
+ meant Pelican,<a name="9-13"></a><a href="#note-9-13"><small>[13]</small></a> called the party rather imperiously into his lodge
+ or meeting house, and then told them very plainly that his armed men
+ exceeded theirs in number, and that he would put the whole of the
+ party to death unless they were very liberal in their presents. To
+ avoid misunderstanding, he added that he would inform them exactly
+ what it was that he required: Three casks of gunpowder, four bags of
+ shot and ball, two bales of tobacco, three kegs of rum, and three
+ guns, together with knives, flints, and other articles. He went on to
+ say that he had already seen white men, and knew that they promised
+ more than they performed. He, personally, was a peaceful man, who
+ contented himself with moderate views in order to avoid quarrels;
+ nevertheless, he desired that an immediate answer should be given
+ before the strangers quitted his lodge. A hurried consultation took
+ place, and Henry could do nothing but comply with the chief's demands,
+ for he was powerless to resist. Having, therefore, intimated his
+ acceptance of these demands, he was invited to smoke the pipe of
+ peace, and then obtained permission to depart. After this the goods
+ demanded were handed over, but Chatik managed to snatch more rum from
+ them before they got safely away.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In the winter of 1776 Henry, who, together with his party, had
+ received welcome hospitality from the Hudson's Bay Company's station
+ at Cumberland House, resolved to reach the western region known as the
+ Great Plains, or Prairies&mdash;that immense tract of country through which
+ flow the Athabaska, the Saskatchewan, the Red River, and the Missouri.
+ He and his party, of course, travelled on snowshoes, and their goods
+ were packed on sledges made of thin boards, and drawn after them by
+ the men. The cold was intense, so that, besides wearing very warm
+ woollen clothes, they were obliged to wrap themselves in blankets of
+ beaver skin and huge bison robes. On these plains there were
+ occasional knolls covered with trees, which were usually called
+ "islands". These provided the precious fuel which alone enabled the
+ travellers to support the intense cold of the nights.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After fifteen days of very difficult travel, during which it had been
+ impossible to kill any game, as the beasts were mostly hidden in the
+ dense woods on these rare hillocks, the situation of his party became
+ alarming. They were now on the borders of the plains, and the trees
+ were getting small and scanty. On the twentieth day of their journey
+ they had finished the last remains of their provisions. But Henry had
+ taken the precaution of concealing a large cake of chocolate<a name="9-14"></a><a href="#note-9-14"><small>[14]</small></a> as a
+ reserve in case of great need. His men had walked till they were
+ exhausted, and had lost both strength and hope, when Henry informed
+ them of the treasure which was still in store. They filled the big
+ kettle with snow. It held two gallons of water, and into this was put
+ one square of the chocolate. The quantity was scarcely sufficient to
+ give colour to the water, but each man drank off a gallon of this hot
+ liquor and felt much refreshed. The next day they marched vigorously
+ for six hours on another two gallons of chocolate and water. For five
+ days the chocolate kept them going, though more by faith than by any
+ actual nourishment that it imparted. They now began to be surrounded
+ by large herds of wolves, who seemed to be conscious of their dire
+ extremity and the probability that they would soon fall an easy prey,
+ yet were cunning enough to keep out of gunshot. At last, however, at
+ sunset on the fifth day, they discovered on the ice the remains of an
+ elk's carcass on which the wolves had left a little flesh. From these
+ elk bones a meal of strong and excellent soup was soon prepared, and
+ the men's bodies thrilled with new life.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Want had lost his dominion over us. At noon we saw the horns of a red
+ deer, standing in the snow, on the river. On examination we found that
+ the whole carcass was with them, the animal having broken through the
+ ice in the beginning of the winter, in attempting to cross the river,
+ too early in the season; while his horns, fastening themselves in the
+ ice, had prevented him from sinking. By cutting away the ice we were
+ enabled to lay bare a part of the back and shoulders, and thus procure
+ a stock of food amply sufficient for the rest of our journey. We
+ accordingly encamped, and employed our kettle to good purpose, forgot
+ all our misfortunes, and prepared to walk with cheerfulness the twenty
+ leagues which, as we reckoned, still lay between ourselves and Fort
+ des Prairies. Though the deer must have been in this situation ever
+ since the month of November, yet its flesh was perfectly good. Its
+ horns alone were five feet high or more, and it will therefore not
+ appear extraordinary that they should be seen above the snow."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The next day they reached the Fort des Prairies, established by the
+ Hudson's Bay people, on the verge of the Assiniboin country. The
+ journey was resumed in company with Messrs. Patterson and Holmes, and
+ accompanied by a band of natives. They had entered the bison country,
+ and were regaled by the Indians with bison tongue and beef.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Soon after sunrise we descried a herd of oxen (bison) extending a
+ mile and a half in length, and too numerous to be counted. They
+ travelled, not one after another, as, in the snow, other animals
+ usually do, but, in a broad phalanx, slowly, and sometimes stopping to
+ feed.... Their numbers were so great that we dreaded lest they should
+ fairly trample down the camp; nor could it have happened otherwise,
+ but for the dogs, almost as numerous as they, who were able to keep
+ them in check. The Indians killed several when close upon their tents,
+ but neither the fire of the Indians nor the noise of the dogs could
+ soon drive them away." The poor animals were more frightened of the
+ frightful snowstorm which was raging than of what man or dog might do
+ to them in the shelter of the woods.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last the party reached the residence of the great chief of the
+ Assiniboins, whose name was "Great Road". These Amerindians received
+ Henry and his people with the greatest respect, giving them a
+ bodyguard, armed with bows and spears, who escorted them to the lodge
+ or tent prepared for their reception. This was of circular form,
+ covered with leather, and not less than twenty feet in diameter. On
+ the ground within, bison skins were spread for beds and seats.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "One-half of the tent was appropriated to our use. Several women
+ waited upon us, to make a fire and bring water, which latter they
+ fetched from a neighbouring tent. Shortly after our arrival these
+ women brought us water, unasked for, saying that it was for washing.
+ The refreshment was exceedingly acceptable, for on our march we had
+ become so dirty that our complexions were not very distinguishable
+ from those of the Indians themselves."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Invited to feast with the great chief, they proceeded to the tent of
+ "Great Road", which they found neither more ornamented nor better
+ furnished than the rest. At their entrance the chief arose from his
+ seat, saluted them in the Indian manner by shaking hands, and
+ addressed them in a few words, in which he offered his thanks for the
+ confidence which they had reposed in him in trusting themselves so far
+ from their own country. After all were seated, on bearskins spread on
+ the ground, the pipe, as usual, was introduced, and presented in
+ succession to each person present. Each took his whiff, and then let
+ it pass to his neighbour. The stem, which was four feet in length, was
+ held by an officer attendant on the chief. The bowl was of red marble
+ or pipe stone.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When the pipe had gone its round, the chief, without rising from his
+ seat, delivered a speech of some length, after which several of the
+ Indians began to weep, and they were soon joined by the whole party.
+ "Had I not previously been witness" (writes Henry) "to a weeping scene
+ of this description, I should certainly have been apprehensive of some
+ disastrous catastrophe; but, as it was, I listened to it with
+ tranquillity. It lasted for about ten minutes, after which all tears
+ were dried away, and the honours of the feast were performed by the
+ attending chiefs." This consisted in giving to every guest a dish
+ containing a boiled bison's tongue. Henry having enquired why these
+ people always wept at their feasts, and sometimes at their councils,
+ he was answered that their tears flowed to the memory of their
+ deceased relations, who were formerly present on these occasions, and
+ whom they remembered as soon as they saw the feast or the conference
+ being got ready.<a name="9-15"></a><a href="#note-9-15"><small>[15]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ The chief to whose kindly reception they were so much indebted was
+ about five feet ten inches high, and of a complexion rather darker
+ than that of the Indians in general. His appearance was greatly
+ injured by the condition of his head of hair, and this was the result
+ of an extraordinary superstition.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The Indians universally fix upon a particular object, as sacred to
+ themselves; as the giver of their prosperity, and as their preserver
+ from evil. The choice is determined either by a dream, or by some
+ strong predilection of fancy; and usually falls upon an animal, or
+ part of an animal, or something else which is to be met with, by land,
+ or by water; but 'Great Road' had made choice of his <i>hair</i>&mdash;placing,
+ like Samson, all his safety in this portion of his proper substance!
+ His hair was the fountain of all his happiness; it was his strength
+ and his weapon, his spear and his shield. It preserved him in battle,
+ directed him in the chase, watched over him on the march, and gave
+ length of days to his wife and children. Hair, of a quality like this,
+ was not to be profaned by the touch of human hands. I was assured that
+ it had never been cut nor combed from his childhood upward, and, that
+ when any part of it fell from his head, he treasured up that part with
+ care: meanwhile, it did not escape all care, even while growing on the
+ head; but was in the special charge of a spirit, who dressed it while
+ the owner slept. All this might be; but the spirit's style of
+ hairdressing was at least peculiar; the hair being suffered to remain
+ very much as if it received no dressing at all, and matted into ropes,
+ which spread themselves in all directions."
+</p>
+<p>
+ From this Assiniboin village Henry saw, for the first time, one of
+ those herds of horses which the Assiniboins possessed in numbers. The
+ herd was feeding on the skirts of the plain. The horses were provided
+ with no fodder, but were left to find food for themselves, which they
+ did in winter by removing the snow with their feet till they reach
+ the grass. This was everywhere on the ground in plenty.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Amongst these people they saw the paunch or stomach of a bison
+ employed as a kettle. This was hung in the smoke of a fire and filled
+ with snow. As the snow melted, more was added, till the paunch was
+ full of water. The lower orifice of the organ was used for drawing off
+ the water, and stopped with a plug and string.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry also noticed amongst the Assiniboins the celebrated lariat. This
+ is formed of a stone of about two pounds weight, which is sewed up in
+ leather and made fast to a wooden handle two feet long. In using it
+ the stone is whirled round the handle by a warrior sitting on
+ horseback and riding at full speed. Every stroke which takes effect
+ brings down a man, a horse, or a bison. To prevent the weapon from
+ slipping out of the hand, a string, which is tied to the handle, is
+ also passed round the wrist of the wearer.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Alexander Henry extended his travels in the north-west within four
+ hundred and fifty miles of Lake Athabaska. He met at this point some
+ Chipewayan slaves in the possession of the Assiniboins, and heard from
+ them (1) of the Peace River in the far west which led one through the
+ Rocky Mountains (he uses that name) to a region descending towards a
+ great sea (the Pacific Ocean); and (2) of the Slave River which, after
+ passing through several lakes, also reached a great sea on the north.
+ This, of course, was an allusion to the Mackenzie River. Here were
+ given and recorded the chief hints at possible lines of exploration
+ which afterwards sent Alexander Mackenzie and other explorers on the
+ journeys that carried British-Canadian enterprise and administration
+ to the shores of the Pacific and Arctic Oceans.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After 1776 Alexander Henry ceased his notable explorations of the far
+ west. In that year he paid a visit to England and France, returning to
+ Canada in 1777. Whilst in France he was received at the French Court
+ and had the privilege of relating to Queen Marie Antoinette some of
+ his wonderful adventures and experiences. After two more visits to
+ England he settled down at Montreal as a merchant (autumn of 1780),
+ and in 1784 he joined with other great pioneers in founding, at
+ Montreal, The North-west Trading Company. Eventually he handed over
+ his share in this enterprise to his nephew, Alexander Henry the
+ Younger, and established himself completely in a life of ease and
+ quiet. He died at Montreal in 1824, aged eighty-five years.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-9-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-1"><u>1</u></a> Carver was not so remarkable for his actual journeys as
+ for his confident predictions of a feasible transcontinental route
+ being found to the Pacific coast.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-2"><u>2</u></a> The white-barked conifer, which gives its name to this
+ lake, is <i>Thuja occidentalis</i>. There are no real "cedars" in America.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-3"><u>3</u></a> The famous place of call (the name means "Turtle Island")
+ in the narrow strait between Lakes Huron and Michigan, and near Lake
+ Superior. (See p. <a href="#p230">230</a>.) But some authorities declare that
+ Michili-makinak means "Island of the great wounded person".
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-4"><u>4</u></a> There are at least two species of maple in Canada
+ yielding sugar from their sap; but the best is <i>Acer saccharinum</i>. The
+ maple leaf is the national emblem of Canada.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-5"><u>5</u></a> Shell beads.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-6"><u>6</u></a> <i>Populus nigra</i>, called by the French Canadians <i>liard</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-7"><u>7</u></a> The grains of maize (Indian corn) grow in compact cells,
+ round a pithy core.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-8"><u>8</u></a> Michili, pronounced "Mishili", means "great", and
+ Makinak, "turtle", in the translation of some Canadian writers. The
+ turtle in question is, of course, not the turtle of sea waters, but
+ the Snapping Turtle (<i>Chelydra serpentina</i>) found in most Canadian
+ lakes and the big rivers of North America, east of the Rocky
+ Mountains.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-9"><u>9</u></a> The smallest change, so to speak, was the skin of a
+ marten, worth one shilling and sixpence. If you went to a canteen for
+ a drink you paid your score with a marten skin, unless the value of
+ your refreshment exceeded the sum of eighteen pence.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-10"><u>10</u></a> See p. <a href="#p128">128</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-11"><u>11</u></a> The Isle of Yellow Sands, famed in legend for its
+ terrible serpents and ogre sixty feet high, was subsequently
+ identified with the Ile de Pont Chartrain, which is distant sixty
+ miles from the north shore of Lake Superior.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-12"><u>12</u></a> See p. <a href="#p166">166</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-13"><u>13</u></a> Elsewhere Henry observes the great numbers of pelicans
+ to be seen on Lake Winnipeg.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-14"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-14"><u>14</u></a> Chocolate from St. Domingue (Haiti) was a favourite form
+ of portable nutriment among the French Canadians, who also provided a
+ means of subsistence for long journeys called <i>praline</i>. This was made
+ of roasted Indian corn on which sugar had been sprinkled. It was a
+ most nourishing food, as well as being an agreeable sweet-meat.
+</p>
+<a name="note-9-15"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#9-15"><u>15</u></a> The Assiniboins (whom Henry calls the Osinipoilles) are
+ the Issati of older travellers, and have sometimes been called the
+ Weeper Indians, from their tendency to tears.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0010"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER X
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Samuel Hearne
+</h3>
+<p>
+ The first noteworthy explorer of the far north was SAMUEL HEARNE,
+<a name="10-1"></a><a href="#note-10-1"><small>[1]</small></a>
+ who had been mate of a vessel in the employ of the whale fishery of
+ Hudson Bay. He entered the service of the Hudson's Bay Company about
+ 1765, and was selected four years afterwards by the Governor of Prince
+ of Wales's Fort (a certain Moses Norton, a half-breed) to lead an
+ expedition of discovery in search of a mighty river flowing
+ northwards, which was rumoured to exist by the Eskimo. This
+ "Coppermine" River was said to flow through a region rich in deposits
+ of copper. From this district the northern tribes of Indians derived
+ their copper ornaments and axeheads.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Samuel Hearne started on the 6th of November, 1769, from Prince of
+ Wales's Fort at the mouth of the Churchill River, on the north-west
+ coast of Hudson Bay. Presumably he and the two "common white men" who
+ were with him travelled on snowshoes and hauled small sledges after
+ them. Travelling westward they passed over bleak hills with very
+ little vegetation&mdash;"the barren grounds, where, in general, we thought
+ ourselves well off if we could scrape together as many shrubs as would
+ make a fire; but it was scarcely ever in our power to make any <a name="p249"></a>other
+ defence against the weather than by digging a hole in the snow down to
+ the moss, wrapping ourselves up in our clothing, and lying down in it,
+ with our sledges set up edgeways to windward". But the principal
+ Indian guide that he engaged was so obviously determined to make the
+ expedition a failure that Hearne returned to his base, Prince of
+ Wales's Fort, and made a second start on the 23rd of February, 1770,
+ this time taking care not to be accompanied by any other white men,
+ and insisting that the Indians who accompanied him should be more
+ carefully chosen.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It must be remembered that in all these early expeditions, French and
+ English, the explorers relied for their food almost entirely on what
+ could be obtained as they went along, in the way of venison, grouse,
+ geese, fish, and wild fruits. In the springtime they would probably
+ get goose eggs and some form of maple sugar through the Indians. From
+ the summer to the autumn there would be an abundance of wild fruits
+ and nuts, but for the rest of the year it would be a diet almost
+ entirely of flesh or fish. As a stand-by there was probably
+ <i>pemmican</i>, made in times of plenty from fish, from bison meat and
+ fat, or from the dried flesh of deer or musk oxen; but tea, coffee,
+ bread, biscuits, and such like accessories were absolutely unknown to
+ them, in fact they lived exactly as the Amerindians did. Their
+ habitations, of course, were the tents or houses of the natives, or
+ what they made for themselves.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In order to pitch an Indian tent in winter it was first necessary to
+ search for a level piece of dry ground, and this could only be
+ ascertained by thrusting a stick through the snow, down to the ground,
+ all over the proposed plot. When a suitable site had been found the
+ snow was then cleared away down to the very moss, in the shape of a
+ circle. When a prolonged stay was contemplated, even the moss was cut
+ up and removed, as it was very liable when dry to catch fire. A
+ quantity of poles were then procured, proportionate in number and
+ length to the size of the tent cloth and the number of persons the
+ tent was intended to contain. Two of the longest poles were tied
+ together at the top and raised to an angle of about 45 degrees from
+ the ground, so that the lower ends extended on either side as widely
+ as the proposed diameter of the tent. The other poles were then
+ arranged on either side of the first two, so that they formed a
+ complete circle round the bottom, and their points were tied together
+ at the top. The tent cloth was usually of thin moose leather, and in
+ shape resembled the vane of a fan, so that the large outer curve
+ enclosed the bottom of the poles, and the smaller one fitted round the
+ apex of the poles at the top, leaving an open space which let out the
+ smoke and let in air and light. The fire was made on the ground in the
+ centre of the floor, which floor was covered all over with small
+ branches of firs and pines serving as seats and beds. Pine foliage and
+ branches were laid round the bottom of the poles on the outside, and a
+ quantity of snow was packed all round the exterior of the tent, thus
+ excluding a great part of the external air, and contributing much to
+ the warmth within.
+</p>
+<p>
+ For a month or more Hearne camped in this fashion by the side of a
+ lake, waiting till the season was sufficiently open for him to
+ continue his journey by water. He and his party of Indians lived
+ mainly on fish, but when these became scarce they attempted to snare
+ grouse or kill deer. In the intervals of rare meals all the party
+ smoked or slept, unless they were obliged to go out to hunt and fish.
+ They would delight, after killing deer, in securing as much as
+ possible of the blood and turning it into broth by boiling it in a
+ kettle with fat and scraps of meat. This was reckoned a dainty dish.
+ Their spoons, dishes, and other necessary household furniture were cut
+ out of birch bark.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0014"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc14.jpg" width="425" height="268"
+alt="Lake Louise, the Rocky Mountains">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>LAKE LOUISE, THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS</h5>
+<p>
+ By the 19th of May, geese, swans, ducks, gulls, and other birds of
+ passage were so plentiful, flying from south to north, and halting to
+ rest at the lake, that Hearne felt the time had come to resume his
+ journey, provisions being now very plentiful and the worst of the thaw
+ over. The weather was remarkably fine and pleasant as the party
+ travelled northwards.
+</p>
+<p>
+ There must have been good patent medicines even in those days. Of
+ these Hearne possessed "Turlington's Drops" and "Yellow Basilicon",
+ and with these he not only healed the terrible wounds of a valuable
+ Indian who had cut his leg most severely (when making birch-bark
+ dishes, spoons, &amp;c), but also the hand of another Indian, which was
+ shattered with the bursting of a gun. These medicines soon restored
+ the use of his hand, so that in a short time he was out of danger,
+ while the carver of birch-bark spoons was able to walk. Nevertheless,
+ although they were to the south of the 60th degree of latitude, the
+ snow was not completely melted until the end of June.
+</p>
+<p>
+ All at once the weather became exceedingly hot, the sledges had to be
+ thrown away, and each man had to carry on his back a heavy load. For
+ instance, Hearne was obliged to carry his quadrant for taking
+ astronomical observations, and its stand; a trunk containing books and
+ papers, &amp;c.; a large compass; and a bag containing all his wearing
+ apparel; also a hatchet, a number of knives, files, &amp;c., and several
+ small articles intended for presents to the natives&mdash;in short, a
+ weight of <i>sixty pounds</i>. Moreover, the barren ground was quite
+ unsuited to the pitching of the southern type of tent, the poles of
+ which obviously could not be driven into the bare rock, so that Hearne
+ was obliged to sleep in the open air in all weathers. Very often he
+ was unable to make a fire, and was constantly reduced to eating his
+ meat quite raw. "Notwithstanding these accumulated and complicated
+ hardships, we continued in perfect health and good spirits." The
+ average day's walk was twenty miles, sometimes without any other
+ subsistence than a pipe of tobacco and a drink of water.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last they saw three musk oxen grazing by the side of a small lake.
+ This seemed a splendid piece of fortune, but, to their mortification,
+ before they could get one of them skinned, a tremendous downpour of
+ rain ensued, so as to make it out of their power to have a fire, for
+ their only form of fuel was moss. And the flesh of the musk ox eaten
+ raw was disgusting; it was coarse and tough, and tasted so strongly of
+ musk that Hearne could hardly swallow it. "None of our natural wants,"
+ he writes, "except thirst, are so distressing or hard to endure as
+ hunger.... For want of action, the stomach so far loses its digestive
+ powers that, after long fasting, it resumes its office with pain and
+ reluctance." After these prolonged fasts, his stomach was scarcely
+ able to contain two or three ounces of food without producing the most
+ agonizing pain. "We fasted many times two whole days and nights, and
+ twice for three days; once for nearly seven days, during which we
+ tasted not a mouthful of anything, except a few cranberries, water,
+ scraps of old leather, and burnt bones."
+</p>
+<p>
+ At a place 63° north latitude he bought a canoe for a single knife
+ "the full value of which did not exceed one penny", having been told
+ that they would soon reach rivers through which they could not wade.
+ And, moreover, they found an Indian who was willing to carry it. In
+ July his guide persuaded him to join an encampment of natives&mdash;about
+ six hundred persons living in seventy tents&mdash;asserting that, as it was
+ no use proceeding much farther north in their search for the
+ Coppermine River that season, it would be well to winter to the west,
+ and resume their northern journey in the spring. The country, though
+ quite devoid of trees, and mostly barren rock, was covered with a herb
+ or shrub called by the Indian name of Wishakapakka, <a name="10-2"></a><a href="#note-10-2"><small>[2]</small></a> from which the
+ European servants of the Hudson's Bay Company had long been used to
+ prepare a kind of tea by steeping it in boiling water. Here there were
+ multitudes of reindeer feeding on the <i>Cladina</i> lichen and the Indians
+ with Hearne killed large numbers for the food of the party, and also
+ for their skins and the marrow in their bones.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Indian who had volunteered to carry the canoe proved unequal to
+ his task. But Hearne found another of his carriers who was willing to
+ take the burden. In order, therefore, to be readier with his gun to
+ shoot deer, he transferred a portion of his own load to the ex-canoe
+ carrier. This portion consisted of the invaluable quadrant and its
+ stand, and a bag of gunpowder. The gunpowder was of such importance to
+ Hearne and his party that one wonders he made this exchange; for if he
+ lost this powder he had no means of killing game, and was entirely
+ dependent for food on the troop of Indians with whom he was
+ travelling, and whom he knew to be most niggardly and inhospitable.
+ Judge, therefore, of his horror when, at the end of a day's march,
+ this weakly Indian porter was missing with his load. All night Hearne
+ was unable to sleep with anxiety, and the whole of the next day he
+ spent searching the rocky ground for miles to discover some sign of
+ the missing man. At that season of the year it was like looking for a
+ needle in a pottle of hay, for there was no snow, and equally no
+ herbage, on which a man's foot could leave traces. However, at last,
+ by some miracle, they discovered the load by the banks of a little
+ river where a party of Indians had crossed.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Shortly afterwards, leaving his quadrant on its stand for a few
+ minutes, whilst he went to eat his dinner, a violent wind arose and
+ blew the whole thing on to the rocks, so that the quadrant was
+ smashed and rendered useless. On this account he determined once more
+ to return to Fort Prince of Wales. The Northern Indians<a name="10-3"></a><a href="#note-10-3"><small>[3]</small></a> with whom
+ Hearne travelled backwards towards the fort were most inhospitable,
+ not to say dangerous. They robbed him of most of his goods, and
+ refused to allow their women to assist his people to dress the
+ reindeer skins out of which it would be necessary shortly to make
+ coverings to protect them from the severe cold of the autumn. In fact
+ Hearne was in rather a desperate condition by September, 1770, when he
+ was joined by a party of Indians under a famous leader, whom he calls
+ Matonabi.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Matonabi, though of Athapaskan stock, had, when a boy, resided several
+ years at Prince of Wales's Fort, and learnt a little English, and,
+ above all, was a master of several Algonkin dialects or languages, so
+ that he could discourse with the Southern Indians. As soon as he heard
+ of Hearne's distress he furnished him with a good, warm suit of skins,
+ and had the reindeer skins dressed for the Indian carriers who
+ accompanied Hearne. In journeying together, Matonabi invited him to
+ return once more, with himself as guide, to discover the copper mines.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "He attributed all our misfortunes to the misconduct of my guides, and
+ the very plan we pursued, by the desire of the Governor, in not taking
+ any women with us on this journey, was, he said, the principal thing
+ that occasioned all our wants. 'For,' said he, 'when all the men are
+ heavy laden, they can neither hunt nor travel to any considerable
+ distance; and in case they meet with success in hunting, who is to
+ carry the produce of their labour?' 'Women,' added he, 'were made for
+ labour; one of them can carry, or haul, as much as two men can do.
+ They also pitch our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at
+ night; and, in fact, there is no such thing as travelling any
+ considerable distance, or for any length of time, in this country,
+ without their assistance.' 'Women,' said he again, 'though they do
+ everything, are maintained at a trifling expense; for as they always
+ stand cook, the very licking of their fingers in scarce times is
+ sufficient for their subsistence.'
+</p>
+<p>
+ "This," added Hearne, "however odd it may appear, is but too true a
+ description of the situation of women in this country: it is at least
+ so in appearance; for the women always carry the provisions, though it
+ is more than probable they help themselves when the men are not
+ present."
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 7th of December, 1770, Samuel Hearne started again
+ from Prince of Wales's Fort, Hudsons Bay, but under very much happier
+ circumstances, Matonabi being practically in charge of the expedition.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Unfortunately, on reaching the Egg River, where Matonabi's people had
+ made a <i>cache</i> or hiding place in which they had stored a quantity of
+ provisions and implements, they found that other Indians had
+ discovered this hiding place and robbed it of nearly every article.
+ This was a great disappointment to Matonabi's people; but Hearne
+ remarks the fortitude with which they bore this, nor did one of them
+ ever speak of revenge. But the expedition's scarcity of food obliged
+ them to push on from morning till night, day after day; yet the road
+ being very bad, and their sledges heavy, they were seldom able to do
+ more than eighteen miles a day. Hearne himself writes that he never
+ spent so dull a Christmas. For the last three days he had not tasted a
+ morsel of anything, except a pipe of tobacco and a drink of snow
+ water, yet he had to walk daily from morning till night heavily laden.
+ However, at the end of December they reached Island Lake, where they
+ entered a camp of Matonabi's people, and here they found a little
+ food in the way of fish and dried venison. From Island Lake they made
+ their way in a zigzag fashion, stopping often to drive reindeer into
+ pounds to secure large supplies of venison and of skins, till, in the
+ month of April, 1771, they reached a small lake with an almost
+ unpronounceable name, which meant "Little Fish Hill", from a high hill
+ which stood at the west end of this sheet of water.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On an island in this lake they pitched their tents, as deer were very
+ numerous. During this time also they were busily employed in preparing
+ staves of birch wood, about seven or eight feet long, to serve as tent
+ poles in the summer, and in the winter to be converted into snowshoe
+ frames. Here also Chief Matonabi purchased another wife. He had now
+ with him no less than seven, most of whom would for size have made
+ good grenadiers. He prided himself much on the height and strength of
+ his wives, and would frequently say few women could carry off heavier
+ loads. In fact in this country wives were very seldom selected for
+ their beauty, but rather for their strength.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Ask a Northern Indian," wrote Hearne, "'What is beauty?' He will
+ answer: 'A broad, flat face, small eyes, high cheekbones, three or
+ four broad black lines across each cheek, a low forehead, a broad
+ chin, a clumsy hook nose, and a tawny hide.'"
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the model woman amongst these Indians was one who was capable of
+ dressing all kinds of skins and making them into clothing, and who was
+ strong enough to carry a load of about a hundred pounds in weight in
+ summer, and to haul perhaps double that weight on a sledge in winter.
+ "As to their temper, it is of little consequence; for the men have a
+ wonderful facility in making the most stubborn comply with as much
+ alacrity as could possibly be expected." When the men kill any large
+ beast the women are always sent to bring it to the tent. When it is
+ brought there, every operation it undergoes, such as splitting,
+ drying, pounding, is performed by the women. When anything is prepared
+ for eating it is the women who cook it; and when it is done, not even
+ the wives and daughters of the greatest chiefs in the country are
+ served until all the males&mdash;even the male slaves&mdash;have eaten what they
+ think proper. In times of scarcity it was frequently the lot of the
+ women to be left without a single mouthful; though, no doubt, they
+ took good care to help themselves in secret.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0015"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc15.jpg" width="273" height="425"
+alt="Samuel Hearne; Alexander Mackenzie">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>SAMUEL HEARNE and ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</h5>
+<p>
+ Hearne mentions that in this country among the Northern Indians the
+ names of the boys were various and generally derived from some place,
+ or season of the year, or animal; whilst the names of the girls were
+ chiefly taken from some part or property of a marten, <a name="10-4"></a><a href="#note-10-4"><small>[4]</small></a> such as the
+ white marten, the black marten, the summer marten, the marten's head,
+ foot, heart, or tail.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From the Lake of Little Fish Hill the party moved on to Lake Clowey,
+ and here the Northern Indians set to work to build their canoes in the
+ warm and dry weather, which was about to come in at the end of May.
+ These canoes were very slight and simple in construction and
+ wonderfully light, which was necessary, for some of the northern
+ portages might be a hundred to one hundred and fifty miles in length,
+ over which the canoes would have to be carried by the Indians. All the
+ tools employed in those days, in building such canoes and making
+ snowshoes and all the other furniture and utensils of Indian life,
+ consisted of a <i>hatchet</i>, a <i>knife</i>, a <i>file</i>, and an <i>awl</i> obtained
+ from the stores of the Hudson's Bay Company. In the use of these tools
+ they were so dexterous that everything they manufactured was done with
+ a neatness which could not be excelled by the most expert mechanic.
+ These northern canoes were flat-bottomed, with straight, upright
+ sides, and sharp prow and peak. The stern part of the canoe was wider
+ than the rest in order to receive the baggage. The average length of
+ the canoe would be from twelve to thirteen feet, and the breadth in
+ the widest part about two feet. Generally but a single paddle was
+ used, and that rather attenuated. When transporting the canoes from
+ one river to another, a strong band of bark or fibre would be fastened
+ round the thwarts of the canoe, and then slung over the breast and
+ shoulders of the Indian that was carrying it.
+</p>
+<p>
+ From Lake Clowey the northern progress was made on foot, steady and
+ fatiguing walking over the barren grounds. The wooded region had been
+ left behind to the south; but for a distance of about twenty miles
+ outside the living woods there was a belt of dry stumps more or less
+ ancient. According to Hearne, these vestiges of trees to the north of
+ the present forest limit were an indication that the climate had grown
+ colder during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, because,
+ according to the traditions of the Indians and the remembrances of
+ their old people, the forest had formerly extended much farther to the
+ north.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Whilst they were staying for the canoe building at Lake Clowey, Hearne
+ was a great deal bothered by the domestic troubles of his Indian
+ friend Matonabi. This man had been constantly trying to add to his
+ stock of wives as he passed up country, and at Clowey he had met the
+ former husband of one of these women whom he had carried off by force.
+ The man ventured to reproach him, whereupon Matonabi went into his
+ tent, opened one of his wives' bundles, and with the greatest
+ composure took out a new, long, box-handled knife; then proceeded to
+ the tent of the man who had complained, and without any parley
+ whatever took him by the collar and attempted to stab him to death.
+ The man had already received three bad knife wounds in the back before
+ other people, rushing in to his assistance, prevented Matonabi from
+ finishing him. After this, Matonabi returned to his tent as though
+ nothing had happened, called for water, washed the blood off his hands
+ and knife, and smoked his pipe as usual, asking Hearne if he did not
+ think he had done quite right!
+</p>
+<p>
+ "It has ever been the custom among those people for the men to wrestle
+ for any woman to whom they are attached; and of course the strongest
+ party always carries off the prize. A weak man, unless he be a good
+ hunter and well beloved, is seldom permitted to keep a wife that a
+ stronger man thinks worth his notice; for at any time when the wives
+ of those strong wrestlers are heavy laden either with furs or
+ provisions, they make no scruple of tearing any other man's wife from
+ his bosom and making her bear a part of his luggage. This custom
+ prevails throughout all their tribes, and causes a great spirit of
+ emulation among their youth, who are upon all occasions, from their
+ childhood, trying their strength and skill in wrestling. This enables
+ them to protect their property, and particularly their wives, from the
+ hands of those powerful ravishers, some of whom make almost a
+ livelihood by taking what they please from the weaker parties without
+ making them any return. Indeed it is represented as an act of great
+ generosity if they condescend to make an unequal exchange, as, in
+ general, abuse and insult are the only return for the loss which is
+ sustained.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The way in which they tear the women and other property from one
+ another, though it has the appearance of the greatest brutality, can
+ scarcely be called fighting. I never knew any of them receive the
+ least hurt in these <i>rencontres</i>; the whole business consists in
+ hauling each other about by the hair of the head; they are seldom
+ known either to strike or kick one another. It is not uncommon for one
+ of them to cut off his hair and to grease his ears immediately before
+ the contest begins. This, however, is done privately; and it is
+ sometimes truly laughable to see one of the parties strutting about
+ with an air of great importance, and calling out: 'Where is he? Why
+ does he not come out?' when the other will bolt out with a clean-shorn
+ head and greased ears, rush on his antagonist, seize him by the hair,
+ and, though perhaps a much weaker man, soon drag him to the ground,
+ while the stronger is not able to lay hold of him. It is very frequent
+ on those occasions for each party to have spies, to watch the other's
+ motions, which puts them more on a footing of equality. For want of
+ hair to pull, they seize each other about the waist, with legs wide
+ extended, and try their strength by endeavouring to vie who can first
+ throw the other down."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Early in the morning of the twenty-ninth 'Captain' Keelshies (an
+ Indian) joined us. He delivered to me a packet of letters and a
+ two-quart keg of French brandy, but assured me that the powder, shot,
+ tobacco, knives, &amp;c, which he received at the fort for me, were all
+ expended. He endeavoured to make some apology for this by saying that
+ some of his relations died in the winter, and that he had, according
+ to native custom, thrown all his own things away; after which he was
+ obliged to have recourse to my ammunition and other goods to support
+ himself and a numerous family. The very affecting manner in which he
+ related this story, often crying like a child, was a great proof of
+ his extreme sorrow, which he wished to persuade me arose from the
+ recollection of his having embezzled so much of my property; but I was
+ of a different opinion, and attributed his grief to arise from the
+ remembrance of his deceased relations. However, as a small recompense
+ for my loss, he presented me with four ready-dressed moose skins,
+ which was, he said, the only retribution he could then make. The moose
+ skins, though not the twentieth part of the value of the goods which
+ he had embezzled, were in reality more acceptable to me than the
+ ammunition and the other articles would have been, on account of their
+ great use as shoe leather, which at that time was a very scarce
+ article with us, whereas we had plenty of powder and shot."
+</p>
+<p>
+ During Hearne's stay at Lake Clowey a great number of Indians entered
+ into a combination with those of his party to travel together to the
+ Coppermine River, with no other intent than to murder the Eskimo who
+ frequented that river in considerable numbers. Before leaving Lake
+ Clowey all the Northern Indians who had assembled there prepared their
+ arms for the encounter, and did not forget to make shields before they
+ left the woods of Clowey. These shields were composed of thin boards
+ about three-quarters of an inch thick, two feet broad, and three feet
+ long, and were intended to ward off the arrows of the Eskimo.
+</p>
+<p>
+ When the now large expedition reached a river with the fearful name of
+ Congecathawhachaga, they found a portion of the tribe known as Copper
+ Indians,<a name="10-5"></a><a href="#note-10-5"><small>[5]</small></a> and these had never before seen a white man. They gave a
+ very friendly reception to Hearne on account of Matonabi.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "They expressed as much desire to examine me from top to toe as a
+ European naturalist would a nondescript animal. They, however, found
+ and pronounced me to be a perfect human being, except in the colour of
+ my hair and eyes; the former, they said, was like the stained hair of
+ a buffalo's tail, and the latter, being light, were like those of a
+ gull. The whiteness of my skin also was, in their opinion, no
+ ornament, as they said it resembled meat which had been sodden in
+ water till all the blood was extracted. On the whole I was viewed as
+ so great a curiosity in this part of the world that during my stay
+ there, whenever I combed my head, some or other of them never failed
+ to ask for the hairs that came off, which they carefully wrapped up,
+ saying: 'When I see you again, you shall again see your hair'."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Copper Indians sent a detachment of their men in the double
+ capacity of guides and warriors, and the whole party now turned
+ towards the north-west, and after some days' walking reached the Stony
+ Mountains. "Surely no part of the world better deserves that name",
+ wrote, Hearne. They appeared to be a confused heap of stones quite
+ inaccessible to the foot of man. Nevertheless, with the Copper Indians
+ as guides, they got over this range, though not without being obliged
+ frequently to crawl on hands and knees. This range, however, had been
+ so often crossed by Indians coming to and fro that there was a very
+ visible path the whole way, the rocks, even in the most difficult
+ places, being worn quite smooth. By the side of the path there were
+ several large, flat stones covered with thousands of small pebbles.
+ These marks had been gradually built up by passengers going to and fro
+ from the copper mines in the far north. The weather all this time,
+ although the month was July, was very bad&mdash;constant snow, sleet, and
+ rain. Hearne seldom had a dry garment of any kind, and in the caves
+ where they lodged at night the water was constantly dropping from the
+ roof. Their food all this time was raw venison. One snowstorm which
+ fell on them was heavier than was customary even in the winter, but at
+ last the weather cleared up and sunshine made the journey far more
+ tolerable.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they descended the northern side of the Stony Mountains they
+ crossed a large lake, passing over its unmelted ice, and called it
+ Musk-ox Lake, from the number of these creatures which they found
+ grazing on the margin of it.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This was not the first time that Hearne had seen the musk ox. These
+ animals were wont to come down as far south as the shores of Hudson
+ Bay.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the northern side of the Stony Mountains Hearne was taken by the
+ Indians to see a place which he called Grizzly-bear Hill, which took
+ its name from the numbers of those animals (presumably what we call
+ grizzly bears) which resorted here for the purpose of bringing forth
+ their young in a cave in this hill. On the east side of the adjoining
+ marsh Hearne was amazed at the sight of the many hills and dry ridges,
+ which were turned over like ploughed land by the long claws of these
+ bears in searching for the ground squirrels and mice which constitute
+ a favourite part of their food. It was surprising to see the enormous
+ stones rolled out of their beds by the bears on these occasions.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they neared the Coppermine River the weather became very warm, and
+ the country had a good supply of firewood. Reindeer were abundant,
+ and, the Indians having killed some of these, Hearne sat down to the
+ most comfortable meal he had had for some months.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It was a kind of haggis, called by the Amerindians "biati", made with
+ the blood of the reindeer, a good quantity of fat shredded small, some
+ of the tenderest of the flesh, together with the heart and lungs, cut,
+ or more commonly torn, into small slivers&mdash;all which would be put into
+ the stomach, and roasted by being suspended before the fire by a
+ string. Care had to be taken that it did not get too much heat at
+ first, as the bag would thereby be liable to be burnt and the contents
+ be let out. When it was sufficiently done it emitted steam, "which",
+ writes Hearne, "is as much as to say: 'Come, eat me now'; and if it be
+ taken in time, before the blood and other contents are too much done,
+ it is certainly a most delicious morsel, even without pepper, salt, or
+ any other seasoning."
+</p>
+<p>
+ It was now almost impossible to sleep at night for the mosquitoes,
+ which swarmed in myriads as soon as the warmth of the sun melted the
+ ice and snow. When Hearne actually reached the banks of the Coppermine
+ River he was a little disappointed at its appearance, as it seemed to
+ be only one hundred and eighty yards wide, shallow, and full of
+ shoals. The Chipewayan Amerindians with him now sent out their spies
+ to try and locate the Eskimo. Presently they found that there were
+ five tents of them on the west side of the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When the Indians received this intelligence no further attendance or
+ attention was paid to my survey, but their whole thoughts were
+ immediately engaged in planning the best method of attack, and how
+ they might steal on the poor Eskimo the ensuing night and kill them
+ all when asleep. To accomplish this bloody design more effectually the
+ Indians thought it necessary to cross the river as soon as possible;
+ and, by the account of the spies, it appeared that no part was more
+ convenient for the purpose than that where we had met them, it being
+ there very smooth, and at a considerable distance from any fall.
+ Accordingly, after the Indians had put all their guns, spears,
+ shields, &amp;c, in good order, we crossed the river....
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When we arrived on the west side of the river, each painted the front
+ of his shield; some with the figure of the sun, others with that of
+ the moon, several with different kinds of birds and beasts of prey,
+ and many with the images of imaginary beings, which, according to
+ their silly notions, are the inhabitants of the different elements,
+ Earth, Sea, Air, &amp;c. On enquiring the reason of their doing so, I
+ learned that each man painted his shield with the image of that being
+ on which he relied most for success in the intended engagement. Some
+ were content with a single representation; while others, doubtful, as
+ I suppose, of the quality and power of any single being, had their
+ shields covered to the very margin with a group of hieroglyphics quite
+ unintelligible to everyone except the painter. Indeed, from the hurry
+ in which this business was necessarily done, the want of every colour
+ but red and black, and the deficiency of skill in the artist, most of
+ those paintings had more the appearance of a number of accidental
+ blotches, than 'of anything that is on the earth, or in the water
+ under the earth'....
+</p>
+<p>
+ "After this piece of superstition was completed, we began to advance
+ towards the Eskimo tents; but were very careful to avoid crossing any
+ hills, or talking loud, for fear of being seen or overheard by the
+ inhabitants."
+</p>
+<p>
+ When the attacking party was within two hundred yards of the Eskimo
+ tents, they lay in ambush for some time, watching the motions of their
+ intended victims; and here the Indians wanted Hearne (for whom they
+ had a sincere affection) to stay till the fight was over; but to this
+ he would not consent, lest, when the Eskimo came to be surprised, they
+ should try every way to escape, and, finding him alone, kill him in
+ their desperation.
+</p>
+<p>
+ While they lay in ambush the Northern Indians performed the last
+ ceremonies which were thought necessary before the engagement. These
+ chiefly consisted in painting their faces: some all black, some all
+ red, and others with a mixture of the two; and to prevent their hair
+ from blowing into their eyes, it was either tied before or behind, and
+ on both sides, or else cut short all round. The next thing they
+ considered was to make themselves as light as possible for running,
+ which they did by pulling off their stockings, and either cutting off
+ the sleeves of their jackets, or rolling them up close to their
+ armpits; and though the mosquitoes at that time "were so numerous as
+ to surpass all credibility", yet some of the Indians actually pulled
+ off their jackets and entered the lists nearly or quite naked. Hearne,
+ fearing he might have occasion to run with the rest, thought it also
+ advisable to pull off his stockings and cap, and to tie his hair as
+ close up as possible.
+</p>
+<p>
+ By the time the Indians had made themselves thus "completely
+ frightful", it was nearly one in the morning. Then, finding all the
+ Eskimo quiet in their tents, they rushed forth from their ambuscade,
+ and fell on the poor, unsuspecting creatures, unperceived till they
+ were close to the very eaves of the tents. A horrible massacre
+ forthwith took place, while Hearne stood neutral in the rear.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The scene was shocking beyond description. The poor unhappy victims
+ were surprised in the midst of their sleep, and had neither time nor
+ power to make any resistance; men, women, and children, in all upward
+ of twenty, ran out of their tents stark naked, and endeavoured to make
+ their escape; but the Indians having possession of all the landside,
+ to no place could they fly for shelter. One alternative only remained,
+ that of jumping into the river; but, as none of them attempted it,
+ they all fell a sacrifice to Indian barbarity!
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches were truly
+ dreadful; and my horror was much increased at seeing a young girl,
+ seemingly about eighteen years of age, killed so near me, that when
+ the first spear was stuck into her side she fell down at my feet, and
+ twisted round my legs, so that it was with difficulty that I could
+ disengage myself from her dying grasp. As two Indian men pursued this
+ unfortunate victim, I solicited very hard for her life; but the
+ murderers made no reply till they had stuck both their spears through
+ her body, and transfixed her to the ground. They then looked me
+ sternly in the face, and began to ridicule me by asking if I wanted an
+ Eskimo wife; and paid not the smallest regard to the shrieks and agony
+ of the poor wretch, who was twining round their spears like an eel!"
+</p>
+<p>
+ On his requesting that they would at least put the woman out of her
+ misery, one of the Indians hastily drew his spear from the place where
+ it was first lodged, and pierced it through her breast near the heart.
+ The love of life, however, even in this most miserable state, was so
+ predominant, that "though this might justly be called the most
+ merciful act that could be done for the poor creature, it seemed to be
+ unwelcome, for, though much exhausted by pain and loss of blood, she
+ made several efforts to ward off the friendly blow."... "My own
+ situation and the terror of my mind at beholding this butchery,
+ cannot easily be conceived, much less described; though I summed up
+ all the fortitude I was master of on the occasion, it was with
+ difficulty that I could refrain from tears; and I am confident that my
+ features must have feelingly expressed how sincerely I was affected at
+ the barbarous scene I then witnessed; even at this hour I cannot
+ reflect on the transactions of that horrid day without shedding
+ tears."
+</p>
+<p>
+ There were other Eskimo on the opposite shore of the river. Though
+ they took up their arms to defend themselves, they did not attempt to
+ abandon their tents, for they were utterly unacquainted with the
+ nature of firearms; so much so that when the bullets struck the
+ ground, they ran in crowds to see what was sent them, and seemed
+ anxious to examine all the pieces of lead which they found flattened
+ against the rocks. At length one of the Eskimo men was shot in the
+ calf of his leg, which put them in great confusion. They all
+ immediately embarked in their little canoes, and paddled to a shoal in
+ the middle of the river, which being somewhat more than a gunshot from
+ any part of the shore, put them out of the reach of our barbarians.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When the savages discovered that the surviving Eskimo had gained the
+ shore above-mentioned, the Northern Indians began to plunder the
+ tents of the deceased of all the copper utensils they could find; such
+ as hatchets, bayonets, knives, &amp;c, after which they assembled on the
+ top of an adjacent hill, and, standing all in a cluster, so as to form
+ a solid circle, with their spears erect in the air, gave many shouts
+ of victory, constantly clashing their spears against each other, and
+ frequently calling out <i>tima! tima!<a name="10-6"></a></i><a href="#note-10-6"><small>[6]</small></a> by way of derision to the poor
+ surviving Eskimo, who were standing on the shoal almost knee deep in
+ water."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "It ought to have been mentioned in its proper place," writes Hearne,
+ after describing further atrocities, "that in making our retreat up
+ the river, after killing the Eskimo on the west side, we saw an old
+ woman sitting by the side of the water killing salmon, which lay at
+ the foot of the fall as thick as a shoal of herrings. Whether from the
+ noise of the fall, or a natural defect in the old woman's hearing, it
+ is hard to determine, but certain it is, she had no knowledge of the
+ tragical scene which had been so lately transacted at the tents,
+ though she was not more than two hundred yards from the place. When we
+ first perceived her she seemed perfectly at ease, and was entirely
+ surrounded with the produce of her labour. From her manner of
+ behaviour, and the appearance of her eyes, which were as red as blood,
+ it is more than probable that her sight was not very good; for she
+ scarcely discerned that the Indians were enemies, till they were
+ within twice the length of their spears of her. It was in vain that
+ she attempted to fly, for the wretches of my crew transfixed her to
+ the ground in a few seconds, and butchered her in the most savage
+ manner. There was scarcely a man among them who had not a thrust at
+ her with his spear; and many in doing this aimed at torture rather
+ than immediate death, as they not only poked out her eyes, but stabbed
+ her in many parts very remote from those which are vital.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "It may appear strange that a person supposed to be almost blind
+ should be employed in the business of fishing, and particularly with
+ any degree of success; but when the multitude of the fish is taken
+ into the account, the wonder will cease. Indeed they were so numerous
+ at the foot of the fall, that when a light pole, armed with a few
+ spikes, which was the instrument the old woman used, was put under
+ water, and hauled up with a jerk, it was scarcely possible to miss
+ them. Some of my Indians tried the method, for curiosity, with the old
+ woman's staff, and seldom got less than two at a jerk, sometimes
+ three or four. Those fish, though very fine, and beautifully red, are
+ but small, seldom weighing more (as near as I could judge) than six or
+ seven pounds, and in general much less. Their numbers at this place
+ were almost incredible, perhaps equal to anything that is related of
+ the salmon in Kamschatka, or any other part of the world."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hearne seems to have been so intent on geographical discovery that he
+ did not allow his feelings to influence him very long against the
+ society of his Amerindian companions, who apparently sat down and ate
+ a dish of salmon with him an hour or so after they had killed this
+ last old woman! The Indians now told him that they were ready again to
+ assist him in making an end of his survey, and apparently on foot, for
+ the Coppermine River was not navigable here, even for a boat.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Thus, first of all white men coming overland, he reached the sea coast
+ of the Arctic Ocean. The tide was then out, and a good deal of the sea
+ surface was covered with ice, on which he observed many seals lying
+ about. Along the sea coast and river banks were many birds; gulls,
+ divers or loons, golden plovers, green plovers, curlews, geese, and
+ swans. The country a little way inland was obviously inhabited by
+ numbers of musk oxen, reindeer, bears, wolves, gluttons, foxes, polar
+ hares, snowy owls, ravens, ptarmigans, gopher ground-squirrels, stoats
+ (ermines), and mice. In this region also he saw a bird which the
+ Copper Indians called the Alarm Bird. He tells us that in size and
+ colour it resembles a "Cobadekoock"; but as none of us know what that
+ is, we can only go on to imagine that the Alarm Bird was a kind of
+ owl, as Hearne says it was "of the owl genus". When it perceived
+ people or beasts it directed its way towards them immediately, and,
+ after hovering over them for some time, flew over them in circles or
+ went away with them in the same direction as they walked. All this
+ time the bird made a loud screaming noise like the cry of a child.
+ These owls were sometimes accustomed to follow the Indians for a whole
+ day, and the Copper Indians believed that they would in some way
+ conduct them to herds of deer and musk oxen, which without the birds'
+ assistance might never be found. They also warned Indians of the
+ arrival of strangers. The Eskimo, according to Hearne, paid no heed to
+ these birds, and it was thus that they allowed themselves to be
+ surprised and massacred, for if they had looked out from the direction
+ in which the Chipewayans were lying in ambush, they would have seen a
+ large flock of these owls continually flying about and making
+ sufficient noise to awaken any man out of the soundest sleep.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The country on either side of the estuary of the Coppermine River was
+ not without vegetation. There were stunted pines and tufts of dwarf
+ willows, and the ground was covered with a lichen or herb, which the
+ English of the Hudson's Bay Company knew by the name of
+ Wishakapaka,<a name="10-7"></a><a href="#note-10-7"><small>[7]</small></a> and which they dried and used instead of tea. There
+ were also cranberry and heathberry bushes, but without fruit. The
+ scrub grew gradually thinner and smaller as one approached the sea,
+ and at the mouth of the river there was nothing but barren hills and
+ marsh.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The unfortunate Eskimo of this region, judging by the examples seen by
+ Hearne, were of low stature, with broad thickset bodies. Their
+ complexion was a dirty copper colour, but some of the women were
+ almost fair and ruddy. Their dress, their arms and fishing tackle were
+ precisely similar to those of the Greenland Eskimo. Their tents were
+ made of deerskins, and were pitched in a circular form. But these were
+ only their summer habitations, those for the winter being partly
+ underground, with a roof framework of poles, over which skins were
+ stretched; and of course Nature did the rest, covering the roof with
+ several feet of snow. Owing to being almost entirely surrounded by
+ snow, these winter houses were very warm. Their household furniture
+ consisted of stone kettles and wooden troughs of various sizes, also
+ dishes, scoops, and spoons made of musk-ox horns. The stone kettles
+ (which some people think they borrowed from the Norse discoverers of
+ America in the eleventh century) were as large as to be capable of
+ containing five or six gallons. They were, of course, carved out of
+ solid blocks of stone, every one of them being ornamented with neat
+ moulding round the rims, and some of the large ones with fluted work
+ at each corner. In shape they were oblong, wider at the top than the
+ bottom, and strong handles of solid stone were left at each end to
+ lift them up.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Eskimo hatchets were made of a thick lump of copper about five or
+ six inches long, and one and a half to two inches broad. They were
+ bevelled away at one end like a chisel. This piece of copper was
+ lashed into the end of a piece of wood about twelve or fourteen inches
+ long. The men's daggers and the women's knives were also made of
+ copper. The former were in shape like the ace of spades, and the
+ handle was made of reindeer antler.
+</p>
+<p>
+ With the Eskimo was a fine breed of dogs, with erect ears, sharp
+ noses, bushy tails. They were all tethered to stones to prevent them
+ from eating the flesh that was spread all over the rocks to dry.
+ Apparently, these beautiful dogs were left behind still tethered by
+ the wicked Amerindians, after the massacre of their owners. Hearne,
+ however, noticed with these Coppermine River Eskimo that the men were
+ entirely bald, having all their head hair pulled out by the roots. The
+ women wore their hair at the usual length.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Before leaving this region to return southwards, Hearne was led by the
+ Indians to one of the copper mines about thirty miles south-east of
+ the river mouth. It was no more than a jumble of rocks and gravel,
+ which had been rent in many ways, apparently by an earthquake shock.
+ This mine was at the time of Hearne's visit very poor in copper, much
+ of the metal having already been removed.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Copper Indians set a great value on this native metal even at the
+ present day, and prefer it to iron for almost every use except that of
+ a hatchet, a knife, and an awl. "For these three necessary
+ implements", writes Hearne, "copper makes but a very poor substitute."
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the return journey, in the course of which the Great Slave
+ Lake&mdash;which Hearne calls "Lake Athapuscow"&mdash;was discovered and crossed
+ on the ice, the party travelled so hard and stayed so seldom to rest
+ that Hearne suffered terribly with his legs and feet. "I had so little
+ power to direct my feet when walking, that I frequently knocked them
+ against the stones with such force, as not only to jar and disorder
+ them, but my legs also; and the nails of my toes were bruised to such
+ a degree, that several of them festered and dropped off. To add to
+ this mishap, the skin was entirely chafed off from the tops of both my
+ feet, and between every toe; so that the sand and gravel, which I
+ could by no means exclude, irritated the raw parts so much, that for a
+ whole day before we arrived at the women's tents, I left the print of
+ my feet in blood almost at every step I took. Several of the Indians
+ began to complain that their feet also were sore; but, on examination,
+ not one of them was the twentieth part in so bad a state as mine. This
+ being the first time I had been in such a situation, or seen anybody
+ foot-foundered, I was much alarmed, and under great apprehensions for
+ the consequences. Though I was but little fatigued in body, yet the
+ excruciating pain I suffered when walking had such an effect on my
+ spirits, that if the Indians had continued to travel two or three days
+ longer at that unmerciful rate, I must unavoidably have been left
+ behind; for my feet were in many places quite honeycombed by the dirt
+ and gravel eating into the raw flesh."
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Among the various superstitious customs of those people, it is worth
+ remarking, and ought to have been mentioned in its proper place, that
+ immediately after my companions had killed the Eskimo at the Copper
+ River, they considered themselves in a state of uncleanness, which
+ induced them to practise some very curious unusual ceremonies. In the
+ first place, all who were absolutely concerned in the murder were
+ prohibited from cooking any kind of victuals, either for themselves or
+ others. As luckily there were two in company who had not shed blood,
+ they were employed always as cooks till we joined the women. This
+ circumstance was exceedingly favourable on my side; for had there been
+ no persons of the above description in company, that task, I was told,
+ would have fallen on me; which would have been no less fatiguing and
+ troublesome, than humiliating and vexatious.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When the victuals were cooked, all the murderers took a kind of red
+ earth, or ochre, and painted all the space between the nose and chin,
+ as well as the greater part of their cheeks, almost to the ears,
+ before they would taste a bit, and would not drink out of any other
+ dish, or smoke out of any other pipe, but their own; and none of the
+ others seemed willing to drink or smoke out of theirs."
+</p>
+<p>
+ He goes on to relate that they practised the custom of painting the
+ mouth and part of the cheeks before each meal, and drinking and
+ smoking out of their own utensils, till the winter began to set in,
+ and during the whole of that time they would never kiss any of their
+ wives or children. They refrained also from eating many parts of the
+ deer and other animals, particularly the head, entrails, and blood;
+ and during their "uncleanness" their food was never cooked in water,
+ but dried in the sun, eaten quite raw, or broiled. When the time
+ arrived that was to put an end to these ceremonies, the men, without a
+ female being present, made a fire at some distance from the tents,
+ into which they threw all their ornaments, pipe stems, and dishes,
+ which were soon consumed to ashes; after which a feast was prepared,
+ consisting of such articles as they had long been prohibited from
+ eating, and when all was over each man was at liberty to eat, drink,
+ and smoke as he pleased, "and also to kiss his wives and children at
+ discretion, which they seemed to do with more raptures than I had ever
+ known them to do it either before or since".
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 11th of January, as some of Hearne's companions were hunting,
+ they saw the track of a strange snowshoe, which they followed, and at
+ a considerable distance came to a little hut, where they discovered a
+ young woman sitting alone. As they found that she understood their
+ language, they brought her with them to the tents. On examination she
+ proved to be one of the Western Dog-rib Indians, who had been taken
+ prisoner by the Athapaska Indians in the summer of 1770. From these,
+ in the following summer, she had escaped, with the intention of
+ returning to her own country, but the distance being so great, and the
+ way being unknown to her, she forgot the track, so she built the hut
+ in which they found her, to protect her from the weather during the
+ winter, and here she had resided from the first setting in of the cold
+ weather. For seven months she had seen no human face. During all this
+ time she had supported herself in comparative comfort by snaring
+ grouse, rabbits, and squirrels; she had also killed two or three
+ beaver, and some porcupines. That she did not seem to have been in
+ want was evident, as she had a small stock of provisions by her when
+ she was discovered, and was in good health and condition; and Hearne
+ thought her "one of the finest women", of the real Indian type, that
+ he had seen in any part of North America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The methods practised by this poor creature to procure a livelihood
+ were truly admirable, and are great proofs that necessity is the real
+ mother of invention. When the few deer sinews that she had an
+ opportunity of taking with her were all expended in making snares and
+ sewing her clothing, she had nothing to supply their place but the
+ sinews of the rabbits' [he means hares'] legs and feet; these she
+ twisted together for that purpose with great dexterity and success.
+ The rabbits, &amp;c, which she caught in those snares, not only furnished
+ her with a comfortable subsistence, but of the skins she made a suit
+ of neat and warm clothing for the winter. It is scarcely possible to
+ conceive that a person in her forlorn situation could be so composed
+ as to be capable of contriving or executing anything that was not
+ absolutely necessary to her existence; but there were sufficient
+ proofs that she had extended her care much farther, as all her
+ clothing, beside being calculated for real service, showed great taste
+ and exhibited no little variety of ornament. The materials, though
+ rude, were very curiously wrought and so judiciously placed as to make
+ the whole of her garb have a very pleasing, though rather romantic,
+ appearance.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Her leisure hours from hunting had been employed in twisting the
+ inner rind or bark of willows into small lines, like net twine, of
+ which she had some hundred fathoms by her; with this she intended to
+ make a fishing net as soon as the spring advanced. It is of the inner
+ bark of willows, twisted in this manner, that the Dog-rib Indians make
+ their fishing nets, and they are much preferable to those made by the
+ Northern Indians.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Five or six inches of an iron hoop, made into a knife, and the shank
+ of an arrowhead of iron, which served her as an awl, were all the
+ metals this poor woman had with her when she eloped, and with these
+ implements she had made herself complete snowshoes, and several other
+ useful articles.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Her method of making a fire was equally singular and curious, having
+ no other materials for that purpose than two hard sulphurous stones.
+ These, by long friction and hard knocking, produced a few sparks,
+ which at length communicated to some touchwood (a species of fungus
+ which grew on decayed poplars); but as this method was attended with
+ great trouble, and not always with success, she did not suffer her
+ fire to go out all the winter...."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Hearne regained Prince of Wales's Fort on Hudson Bay in June, 1772.
+ Subsequently he was dispatched, in the year 1774, to found the first
+ great inland trading station and fort of the Hudson's Bay Company
+ which was established at any considerable distance westward of Hudson
+ Bay&mdash;the first step, in fact, which led to this chartered company
+ becoming in time the ruler and colonizing agent of Alberta and British
+ Columbia. Hearne chose for his station of "Cumberland House" a site at
+ the entrance to Pine Island Lake on the lower Saskatchewan River.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1775 he became Governor of his old starting-point on Hudson
+ Bay&mdash;Fort Prince of Wales. During the American war with France, the
+ French admiral, La Pérouse, made a daring excursion into Hudson Bay
+ (1782), and summoned Hearne to surrender his fort. This he felt
+ obliged to do, not deeming his small garrison strong enough to resist
+ the French force.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Samuel Hearne returned to England in 1787, and died (probably in
+ London) in 1792.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="note-10-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-1"><u>1</u></a> Hearne was born in London in 1745. He entered the Royal
+ Navy as a midshipman at the tender age of eleven, and remained in the
+ Navy till about 1765, when he went out to Hudson Bay with the rank of
+ quartermaster. He must have acquired a considerable education, even in
+ botany and zoology. He not only wrote well, and was a good surveyor
+ for rough map making, but he had a considerable talent as a
+ draughtsman.
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-2"><u>2</u></a> This word is said to be a corruption or altered form of
+ <i>Wishakagami&#363;</i>, a liquid or broth (Kri language). The drink made
+ from this shrub or herb (<i>Ledum palustre</i>) is now known as Labrador
+ tea. It is a bitter aromatic infusion.
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-3"><u>3</u></a> The Indians of the Athapaskan or Déné group were usually
+ called the <i>Northern Indians</i> by the Hudson Bay people, in comparison
+ to all the other tribes of the more temperate regions farther south,
+ who were known as the <i>Southern Indians</i> (Algonkins, &amp;c.).
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-4"><u>4</u></a> A fur-bearing animal (<i>Mustela americana</i>), very like the
+ British pine marten.
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-5"><u>5</u></a> Or "Tantsawh&#363;ts". Like the "Dog-rib" Indians,
+ mentioned farther on, they belonged to the "Northern", Tinné,
+ Athabaskan type.
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-6"><u>6</u></a> "<i>Tima</i> in the Eskimo language is a friendly word similar
+ to <i>what cheer</i>?"&mdash;Hearne.
+</p>
+<a name="note-10-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#10-7"><u>7</u></a> <i>Ledum palustre</i>.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="2HCH0011"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER XI
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Alexander Mackenzie's Journeys
+</h3>
+<p>
+ It has been already mentioned that the conquest of Canada by the
+ British led to a great increase in travel for the development of the
+ fur trade. Previously, under the French, permission was only granted
+ to a few persons to penetrate into the interior to trade with the
+ natives, commerce being regarded as a special privilege or monopoly to
+ be sold or granted by the Crown. But after the British had completely
+ assumed control, nothing was done to bar access to the interior. So
+ long as the Catholic missionaries had been practically placed in
+ charge of the Amerindians, and had served as buffers between them and
+ unscrupulous traders, they&mdash;the Amerindians&mdash;had been saved from two
+ scourges, smallpox and strong drink.<a name="11-1"></a><a href="#note-11-1"><small>[1]</small></a> But now, unhappily, all
+ restrictions about trade in alcohol were removed. In their eagerness
+ to obtain ardent spirits and "high" wine, the Indians eagerly welcomed
+ British traders and French Canadians in their midst. The fur trade
+ developed fast. The Hudson's Bay Company had established its trading
+ stations only in the vicinity or on the coasts of that inland sea, far
+ away from the two Canadas, from the Middle West and the vast North
+ West. After a little reluctance and suspicion, most of the northern
+ Amerindian tribes were persuaded to deflect their caravans from the
+ routes leading to Hudson Bay, and to meet the British, the New
+ Englander ("Bostonian"), and the French Canadian traders at various
+ rendezvous on <a name="p278"></a>Lake Winnipeg and its tributary lakes and rivers. The
+ principal depot and starting-point for the north-west traders was
+ <i>Grand Portage</i>, on the north-west coast of Lake Superior, whence
+ canoes and goods were transferred by a nine-mile portage to the waters
+ flowing to Rainy Lake, and so onwards to the Winnipeg River and the
+ vast system of the Saskatchewan, the Red River, and the Assiniboine.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Amongst the pioneers in this new development of the fur trade, who
+ became also the great explorers of northernmost America, was Alexander
+ Henry (already described), THOMAS CURRIE, JAMES FINLAY, PETER POND,<a name="11-2"></a><a href="#note-11-2"><small>[2]</small></a>
+ JOSEPH and BENJAMIN FROBISHER, and SIMON M'TAVISH. These and some of
+ their supporting merchants in Montreal resolved to form a great
+ fur-trading association, the celebrated North-west Trading Company,
+ and did so in 1784.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Two of the Montreal merchant firms participating in this confederation
+ (Gregory and M'Leod) were inclined to play a somewhat independent
+ part, and called themselves the New North-west Trading Company. They
+ had the foresight to engage as their principal agents in the
+ north-west (Sir) ALEXANDER MACKENZIE and his cousin RODERICK
+ MACKENZIE. Both these young men were Highlanders, probably of Norse
+ origin. Alexander Mackenzie was born at Stornoway, in the Island of
+ Lewis (Hebrides), in 1763. He was only sixteen when he started for
+ Canada to take up a position as clerk in the partnership concern of
+ Gregory &amp; M'Leod at Montreal.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It may be said here briefly that this "New North-west Company" went at
+ first by the nickname of "The Little Company" or "The Potties", this
+ last being an Amerindian corruption of the French <i>Les Petits</i>. Later
+ it developed into the "X.Y. Company", or "Sir Alexander Mackenzie &amp;
+ Co.". Although much in rivalry with the original "Nor'-westers", the
+ rivalry never degenerated into the actual warfare, the indefensible
+ deeds of violence and treachery, which later on were perpetrated by
+ the Hudson's Bay Company on the agents of the North-west, and returned
+ with interest by the latter. Often the New North-west agents and the
+ original Nor'-westers would camp or build side by side, and share
+ equably in the fur trade with the natives; their canoemen and
+ French-Canadian <i>voyageurs</i> would sing their boating songs in chorus
+ as they paddled side by side across the lakes and down the rivers, or
+ marched with their heavy loads over the portages and along the trails.
+ Eventually, in 1804, the X.Y. Company and the North-west fused into
+ the North-west Trading Company, which until 1821 fought a hard fight
+ against the encroachments and jealousy of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+</p>
+<p>
+ During the period, however, from 1785 to 1812 the men of the
+ north-west, of Montreal, and Grand Portage (as contrasted with those
+ of Hudson Bay) effected a revolution in Canadian geography. They
+ played the rôle of imperial pioneers with a stubborn heroism, with
+ little thought of personal gain, and in most cases with full
+ foreknowledge and appreciation of what would accrue to the British
+ Empire through their success. It is impossible to relate the
+ adventures of all of them within the space of any one book, or even of
+ several volumes. Moreover, this has been done already, not only in
+ their own published journals and books, but in the admirable works of
+ Elliot Coues, Dr. George Bryce, Dr. S.J. Dawson, Alexander Ross, and
+ others. I must confine myself here to a description of the adventures
+ of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, with a glance at incidents recorded by
+ Simon Fraser and by Alexander Henry the Younger.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie, having been appointed at the age of twenty-two a partner in
+ the New North-west Company, proceeded to Grand Portage in 1785, and
+ by the year 1788 (after founding Fort Chipewayan on Lake Athabaska)
+ conceived the idea of following the mysterious Slave River to its
+ ultimate outlet into the Arctic or the Pacific Ocean. He left Fort
+ Chipewayan on June 3, 1789, accompanied by four French-Canadian
+ <i>voyageurs</i>, two French-Canadian women (wives of two <i>voyageurs</i>), a
+ young German named John Steinbruck, and an Amerindian guide known as
+ "English Chief". This last was a follower and pupil of the Matonabi
+ who had guided Hearne to the Coppermine River and the eastern end of
+ the Great Slave Lake. The party of eight whites packed themselves and
+ their goods into one birch-bark canoe. English Chief and his two
+ wives, together with an additional Amerindian guide and a hunter,
+ travelled in a second and smaller canoe. The expedition, moreover, was
+ accompanied as far as Slave River by LE ROUX, a celebrated
+ French-Canadian exploring trader who worked for the X.Y. Company. The
+ journey down the Slave River was rendered difficult and dangerous by
+ the rapids. Several times the canoes and their loads had to be lugged
+ past these falls by an overland portage. Mosquitoes tortured the whole
+ party almost past bearance. The leaders of the expedition and their
+ Indian hunter had to be busily engaged (the Indian women also) in
+ hunting and fishing in order to get food for the support of the party,
+ who seemed to have had little reserve provisions with them. Pemmican
+ was made of fish dried in the sun and rubbed to powder. Swans, geese,
+ cranes, and ducks fell to the guns; an occasional beaver was also
+ added to the pot. When they reached the Great Slave Lake they found
+ its islands&mdash;notwithstanding their barren appearance&mdash;covered with
+ bushes producing a great variety of palatable fruits&mdash;cranberries,
+ juniper berries, raspberries, partridge berries, gooseberries, and the
+ "pathogomenan", a fruit like a raspberry.
+</p>
+<p>
+ <a name="p281"></a>Slave Lake, however, was still, in mid-June, under the spell of
+ winter, its surface obstructed with drifting ice. In attempting to
+ cross the lake the frail birch-bark canoes ran a great risk of being
+ crushed between the ice floes. However, at length, after halting at
+ several islands and leaving Le Roux to go to the trading station he
+ had founded on the shores of Slave Lake, Mackenzie and his two canoes
+ found their way to the river outlet of Slave Lake, that river which
+ was henceforth to be called by his name. Great mountains approached
+ near to the west of their course. They appeared to be sprinkled with
+ white stones, called by the natives "spirit stones"&mdash;indeed over a
+ great part of North America the Rocky Mountains were called "the
+ Mountains of Bright Stones"&mdash;yet these brilliant patches were nothing
+ more wonderful than unmelted snow.
+</p>
+<p>
+ A few days later the party encountered Amerindians of the Slave and
+ Dog-rib tribes, who were so aloof from even "Indian" civilization that
+ they did not know the use of tobacco, and were still in the Stone Age
+ as regards their weapons and implements. These people, though they
+ furnished a guide, foretold disaster and famine to the expedition, and
+ greatly exaggerated the obstacles which would be met with&mdash;rapids near
+ the entrance of the tributary from Great Bear Lake&mdash;before the salt
+ water was reached.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The canoes of these Slave and Dog-rib tribes of the Athapaskan (Tinné)
+ group were covered, not with birch bark, but with the bark of the
+ spruce fir.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The lodges of the Slave Indians were of very simple structure: a few
+ poles supported by a fork and forming a semicircle at the bottom, with
+ some branches or a piece of bark as a covering. They built two of
+ these huts facing each other, and made a fire between them. The
+ furniture consisted of a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn. The
+ vessels in which they cooked their victuals were in the shape of a
+ gourd, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, and made of <i>wátápé</i>.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This was the name given to the divided roots of the spruce fir, which
+ the natives wove into a degree of compactness that rendered it capable
+ of containing a fluid. Wátápé fibre was also used to sew together
+ different parts of the bark canoes. They also made fibre or thread
+ from willow bark. Their cooking vessels made of this wátápé not only
+ contained water, but water which was made to boil by putting a
+ succession of hot stones into it. It would, of course, be impossible
+ to place these vessels of fibre on a fire, and apparently none of the
+ Amerindians of temperate North America knew anything about pottery.
+ Those that were in some degree in touch with the Eskimo used kettles
+ or cauldrons of stone. Elsewhere the vessels for boiling water and
+ cooking were made of bark or fibre, and the water therein was made to
+ boil by the dropping in of red-hot stones. The arrows of these Slave
+ Indians were two and a half feet long, and the barb was made of bone,
+ horn, flint, or copper. Iron had been quite lately introduced,
+ indirectly obtained from the Russians in Alaska. Their spears were
+ pointed with barbed bone, and their daggers were made of horn or bone.
+ Their great club, the <i>pógamagán</i>, was made of a reindeer's antler.
+ Axes were manufactured out of a piece of brown or grey stone, six to
+ eight inches long and two inches thick. They kindled fire by striking
+ together a piece of iron pyrites and touchwood, and never travelled
+ without a small bag containing such materials.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians along the lower Mackenzie had heard vague and terrible
+ legends about the Russians, far, far away on the coast of Alaska; they
+ were represented as beings of gigantic stature, and adorned with
+ wings; which, however, they never employed in flying (possibly the
+ sails of their ships). They fed on large birds, and killed them with
+ the greatest ease. They also possessed the extraordinary power of
+ killing with their eyes (no doubt putting up a gun to aim), and they
+ travelled in canoes of very large dimensions.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0016"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc16.jpg" width="285" height="450"
+alt="Big-horned Sheep of Rocky Mountains">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>BIG-HORNED SHEEP OF ROCKY MOUNTAINS</h5>
+<p>
+ "I engaged one of these Indians," writes Mackenzie, "by a bribe of
+ some beads, to describe the surrounding country upon the sand. This
+ singular map he immediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly
+ traced out a very long point of land between the rivers ... which he
+ represented as running into the great lake, at the extremity of which
+ he had been told by Indians of other nations there was a white man's
+ fort." The same people described plainly the Yukon River westward of
+ the mountains, and told Mackenzie it was a far greater stream than the
+ one he was exploring. This was the first "hint" of the existence of
+ the great Alaskan river which was ever recorded. They also spoke to
+ Mackenzie of "small white buffaloes" (?the mountain goat), which they
+ found in the mountains west of the Mackenzie.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Whenever and wherever Mackenzie's party met these northernmost tribes
+ of Athapascan Indians they were always ready to dance in between short
+ spells of talking. This dancing and jumping was their only amusement,
+ and in it old and young, male and female, went to such exertions that
+ their strength was exhausted. As they jumped up and down they imitated
+ the various noises produced by the reindeer, the bear, and the wolf.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In descending the Mackenzie River, and again on the return journey
+ upstream, Mackenzie notices the abundance of berries on the banks of
+ the river, especially the kind which was called "pears" by the French
+ Canadians. These were of a purple hue, rather bigger than a pea, and
+ of a luscious taste. There were also gooseberries and a few
+ strawberries. Quantities of berries were collected and dried, but
+ while on the lower Mackenzie the expedition fed mainly on fat geese.
+ On the beach of the great river they found an abundance of a sweet
+ fragrant root which Mackenzie calls "liquorice".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie seemed to think that along the lower Mackenzie River, near
+ the sea, there were not only reindeer, bears, wolverines, martens,
+ foxes, and hares, but a species of white buffalo or white musk ox,
+ which may have been the mountain goat above referred to. He noted, in
+ the cliffs or banks of the lower Mackenzie, pieces of "petroleum"
+ which bore a resemblance to yellow wax but was more friable. His
+ Indian guide informed him that rocks of a similar kind were scattered
+ about the country at the back of the Slave Lake, near where the
+ Chipewayans collected copper. If so, there may be a great oilfield yet
+ to be discovered in Arctic Canada.
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the river coming out of the Bear Lake Mackenzie discovered coal;
+ the whole beach was strewn with it. He was attracted towards it by
+ seeing smoke and noticing a strong sulphurous smell. The whole bank of
+ the river was on fire for a considerable distance, and he thought this
+ was due to the natives having camped there and set fire to the coal in
+ the bank from their hearths. But subsequent travellers have also found
+ this lignite coal burning to waste, and imagine that, being full of
+ gas, it catches fire spontaneously if any landslip or other accident
+ exposes it to moist air. In 1906 it was still burning!
+</p>
+<p>
+ According to Mackenzie, the ground in the regions about the lower
+ reaches of the Mackenzie River is always frozen at least five inches
+ down from the surface, yet he found small spruce trees growing in
+ patches near the delta of this river, besides pale-yellow raspberries
+ of an agreeable flavour, and a great variety of other plants and
+ herbs.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As the expedition drew near to the estuary of the great Mackenzie
+ River a range of lofty snowy mountains rose into sight on the west.
+ These mountains were said by the natives to swarm with large
+ bears&mdash;probably of the huge chocolate-coloured Alaska type; and again
+ a mention was made of "small white buffaloes", which were in all
+ probability the large white mountain goat (<i>Oreamnus</i>). The
+ Amerindians along the river greatly magnified the dangers, predicting
+ impassable rapids between the confluence of the Great Bear River and
+ the sea. But these stories were greatly exaggerated. Every now and
+ then the river would narrow and flow between white precipitous
+ limestone walls of rock, but there was no obstacle to navigation,
+ though it was very deep and the current fast.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The travellers now began to get within touch of the Eskimo and to hear
+ of their occasional raids up the river from the sea. They were said to
+ use slings, from which they flung stones with such dexterity as to
+ prove formidable in their fights with the Amerindians, who regarded
+ them with great respect, the more so because of their intercourse with
+ the mysterious white people (Russians) from whom they obtained iron.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie just managed to reach within sight of the sea, beyond the
+ delta of the river, his most northern point being about 69° 14" north
+ latitude. Hence he gazed out northwards over a vast expanse of
+ piled-up ice in which several small islands were embedded. In the
+ spaces of open water whales were visible (the small white whale,
+ <i>Beluga</i>). The water in between the islands was affected by the tide.
+ The travellers had, in fact, reached the Arctic ocean. But, owing to
+ the fickleness of their guides, and the danger of being detained by
+ some obstacle in these northern latitudes without proper supplies for
+ the winter, Mackenzie was afraid to stay for further investigations,
+ and on July 16, 1789, turned his back on the sea and commenced his
+ return journey up the stream of the great river which was henceforth
+ to bear his name.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The strength of the current made the homeward travel much more
+ lengthy and tedious. The Indians of the party were troublesome, and
+ the principal guide, English Chief, was sulky and disobedient. This
+ man had insisted on being accompanied by two of his wives, of whom he
+ was so morbidly jealous that he could scarcely bring himself to leave
+ them for an hour in order to go hunting or to prospect the country;
+ consequently he did little or nothing in the killing of game, and this
+ kept the expedition on very small rations. Mackenzie got wroth with
+ him, and so gave him a sound rating. This irritated English Chief to a
+ high degree, and after a long and vehement harangue he burst into
+ tears and loud and bitter lamentations. Thereat his friends and wives
+ commenced crying and wailing vociferously, though they declared that
+ their tears were shed, not for any trouble between the white man and
+ English Chief, but because they suddenly recollected all the friends
+ and relations they had lost within the last few years! "I did not
+ interrupt their grief for two hours, but as I could not well do
+ without them, I was at length obliged to sooth it and induce the chief
+ to change his resolution (to leave me), which he did with great
+ apparent reluctance."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Later on English Chief told Mackenzie that he feared he might have to
+ go to war, because it was a custom amongst the Athapaskan chiefs to
+ make war after they had given way to the disgrace attached to such a
+ feminine weakness as shedding tears. Therefore he would undertake a
+ warlike expedition in the following spring, but in the meantime he
+ would continue with Mackenzie as long as he wanted him.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie, rejoining Le Roux at the Slave Lake, safely reached his
+ station at Fort Chipewayan on September 12, 1789, just as the approach
+ of winter was making travel in these northern regions dangerous to
+ those who relied on unfrozen water as a means of transit.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie seems to have been a little disappointed with the results
+ of his northward journey; perhaps he had thought that the outlet of
+ Slave Lake and the Mackenzie River would be into the Pacific, the <i>Mer
+ de l'Ouest</i> of his Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>. Yet he must have realized
+ that he had discovered something very wonderful after all: the
+ beginning of Alaska, the approach to a region which, though lying
+ within the Arctic circle, has climatic conditions permitting the
+ existence of trees, abundant vegetation, and large, strange beasts,
+ and which, moreover, is highly mineralized. His work in this
+ direction, however (and that of Hearne), was to be completed in the
+ next century by SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, SIR GEORGE BACK, SIR JOHN
+ RICHARDSON, and SIR JOHN ROSS&mdash;all knighthoods earned by magnificent
+ services in geographical exploration&mdash;and by THOMAS SIMPSON, Dr. John
+ Rae,<a name="11-3"></a><a href="#note-11-3"><small>[3]</small></a> WARREN DEASE, JOHN M'LEOD, ROBERT CAMPBELL, and other servants
+ of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In October, 1792, Mackenzie had determined to make a great attempt to
+ reach the Pacific Ocean. By this time he and his colleagues had
+ explored the Peace River (the main tributary of Slave Lake), and had
+ realized that they could travel up it into the heart of the Rocky
+ Mountains. He wintered and traded at a place which he called "New
+ Establishment", on the banks of the Peace River, near the foothills of
+ the Rocky Mountains. He left this station on May 9, 1793, accompanied
+ by ALEXANDER MACKAY,<a name="11-4"></a><a href="#note-11-4"><small>[4]</small></a> six French Canadians, and two Indian guides.
+ They travelled up the Peace River in a twenty-five-foot canoe, and at
+ first passed through scenery the most beautiful Mackenzie had ever
+ beheld. He describes it as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height, and
+ stretching inwards to a considerable distance: at every interval or
+ pause in the rise, there is a very gently ascending space or lawn,
+ which is alternate with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole,
+ or at least as far as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent
+ theatre of nature has all the decorations which the trees and animals
+ of the country can afford it: groves of poplars in every shape vary
+ the scene; and their intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks
+ and buffaloes: the former choosing the steeps and uplands and the
+ latter preferring the plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended
+ with their young ones, who were striking about them; and it appeared
+ that the elks would soon exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The
+ whole country displayed an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a
+ blossom were advancing fast to that delightful appearance, and the
+ velvet rind of their branches reflecting the oblique rays of a rising
+ or setting sun, added a splendid gaiety to the scene which no
+ expressions of mine are qualified to describe."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Of course, as they neared the Rocky Mountains the navigation of the
+ Peace River became more and more difficult. At last they left the
+ river to find their way across the mountains till they should reach
+ the headwaters of a stream flowing towards the Pacific Ocean.
+ Sometimes they only accomplished three miles a day, having to carry
+ all their goods and their canoe. The mountainous country was covered
+ with splendid forests of spruce, pine, cypress, poplar, birch, willow,
+ and many other kinds of trees, with an undergrowth of gooseberries,
+ currants, and briar roses. The travellers generally followed paths
+ made by the elk,<a name="11-5"></a><a href="#note-11-5"><small>[5]</small></a> just as in the dense forests of Africa the way
+ sometimes is cleared for human travellers by the elephant. Every now
+ and again they resumed their journey on the river between the falls
+ and cascades. The mountains seemed to be a solid mass of limestone, in
+ some places without any covering of foliage.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "In no part of the north-west", writes Mackenzie, "did I see so much
+ beaver work" (along the eastern branch of the Peace River). In some
+ places the beavers had cut down acres of large poplars, and were
+ busily at work on their labours of dam-making during the night,
+ between the setting and the rising sun.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Gnats and mosquitoes came with the intense heat of June to make life
+ almost unbearable. As they got close to the Rocky Mountains they
+ encountered Amerindians who had never seen a white man before, and who
+ at first received them with demonstrations of great hostility and
+ fright. But owing to the diplomatic skill of Mackenzie they gradually
+ yielded to a more friendly attitude, and here he decided to camp until
+ the natives had become familiarized with him and his party, and could
+ give them information as to his route. But they could only tell that,
+ away to the west beyond the mountains, a month's travel, there was a
+ vast "lake of stinking water", to which came, for purposes of trade,
+ other white men with vessels as big as islands.
+</p>
+<p>
+ These Rocky Mountain Indians made their canoes from spruce bark<a name="11-6"></a><a href="#note-11-6"><small>[6]</small></a> in
+ the following manner: The bark is taken off the spruce fir to the
+ whole length of the intended canoe, only about eighteen feet, and is
+ sewed with <i>wátápé</i> at both ends. Two laths are then laid across the
+ end of the gunwale. In these are fixed the bars, and against them the
+ ribs or timbers, that are cut to the length to which the bark can be
+ stretched; and to give additional strength, strips of wood are laid
+ between them. To make the whole water-tight, gum is abundantly
+ employed.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Obtaining a guide from these people, Mackenzie continued his journey
+ along the Parsnip, or southern branch of the upper Peace River,
+ partly by water, partly by land till he reached its source,<a name="11-7"></a><a href="#note-11-7"><small>[7]</small></a> a lake,
+ on the banks of which he saw innumerable swans, geese, and ducks. Wild
+ parsnips grew here in abundance, and were a grateful addition to the
+ diet of the travellers. As to birds, they not only saw blue jays and
+ yellow birds, but the first humming bird which Mackenzie had ever
+ beheld in the north-west.<a name="11-8"></a><a href="#note-11-8"><small>[8]</small></a>
+</p>
+<p>
+ From this tiny lake he made his way over lofty mountains to another
+ lake at no great distance, and from this a small stream called the Bad
+ River flowed southwards to join a still bigger stream, which Mackenzie
+ thought might prove to be one of the branches of the mighty Columbia
+ River that flows out into the Pacific through the State of Oregon. It
+ really was the Fraser River, and of the upper waters of the Fraser
+ Mackenzie was the discoverer.<a name="11-9"></a><a href="#note-11-9"><small>[9]</small></a>
+</p>
+<a name="image-0017"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc17.jpg" width="268" height="425"
+alt="The Upper Waters of the Fraser River">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>THE UPPER WATERS OF THE FRASER RIVER</h5>
+<p>
+ Their experiences down the little mountain stream which was to take
+ them into the Fraser nearly ended in complete disaster. "The violence
+ of the current being so great as to drive the canoe sideways down the
+ river, and break her by the first bar, I instantly jumped into the
+ water and the men followed my example; but before we could set her
+ straight, or stop her, we came to deeper water, so that we were
+ obliged to re-embark with the utmost precipitation.... We had hardly
+ regained our situations when we drove against a rock which shattered
+ the stern of the canoe in such a manner, that it held only by the
+ gunwales, so that the steersman could no longer keep his place. The
+ violence of this stroke drove us to the opposite side of the river,
+ which is but narrow, when the bow met with the same fate as the
+ stern.... In a few moments, we came across a cascade which broke
+ several large holes in the bottom of the canoe, and started all the
+ bars.... The wreck becoming flat on the water, we all jumped out ...
+ and held fast to the wreck; to which fortunate resolution we owed our
+ safety, as we should otherwise have been dashed against the rocks by
+ the force of the water, or driven over the cascades.... At length we
+ most fortunately arrived in shallow water, and at a small eddy, where
+ we were enabled to make a stand, from the weight of the canoe resting
+ on the stones, rather than from any exertions of our exhausted
+ strength.... The Indians, when they saw our deplorable situation,
+ instead of making the least effort to help us, sat down and gave vent
+ to their tears."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Nobody, however, had been killed, though much of the luggage was lost,
+ and what remained had to be spread out to dry. Many of Mackenzie's
+ people, however, when they took stock of their misfortunes, were
+ rather pleased than otherwise, as they thought the disaster would stop
+ him from any further attempt to reach the Western Sea. He wisely
+ listened to their observations without replying, till their panic was
+ dispelled, and they had got themselves warm and comfortable with a
+ hearty meal and a glass of rum; though a little later only by their
+ indifferent carelessness they nearly exploded the whole of the
+ expedition's stock of gunpowder.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Fortunately the weather was fine. Mackenzie and his fellow
+ countryman, Mackay, allowed nothing to dismay them or damp their
+ spirits. Bark was obtained from the forest, the canoe was repaired,
+ and they heard from their guide that this violent little stream
+ would before long join a great and much smoother river. But they
+ were tormented with sandflies and mosquitoes, and a day or two
+ afterwards the guide bolted, while the expedition had to cross
+ morasses in which they were nearly engulfed, and the water journey
+ was constantly obstructed by driftwood. Nevertheless, at last they
+ had "the inexpressible satisfaction of finding themselves on the
+ bank of a navigable river on the western side of the first great
+ range of mountains". Here they re-embarked, and were cheerful in
+ spite of heavy rain.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they paddled down this great stream, more than two hundred yards
+ wide, snow-capped mountains rose immediately above the river. The
+ current was strong, but perfectly safe. Flocks of ducks, entirely
+ white, except the bill and a part of the wing, rose before them. Smoke
+ ascending in columns from many parts of the woods showed that the
+ country was well inhabited, and the air was fragrant with the strong
+ odour of the gum of cypress and spruce fir.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Then came a series of cascades and falls and a most arduous portage
+ of the heavy canoe. These labours were somewhat lightened by the
+ discovery of quantities of wild onions growing on the banks; but
+ these, when mixed with the pemmican, on which the party was
+ subsisting, stimulated their appetites to an inconvenient degree,
+ seeing that they were on short commons. Meeting with strange Indians
+ they found no one to interpret, and had to use signs. But on the banks
+ of the Fraser they were lucky enough to find the "real red deer", the
+ great wapiti stag, which is absent from the far north-west, beyond the
+ region of the Saskatchewan. The canoe was loaded with venison. The
+ banks of the Fraser River sank to a moderate height and were covered
+ with poplars and cypresses, birch trees, junipers, alders, and
+ willows. The deserted house or lodge of some Amerindian tribe was
+ visited on the banks. It was a finer structure than anything that
+ Mackenzie had seen since he left Fort Michili-Makinak in upper
+ Canada. It had been constructed for three families. There were three
+ fireplaces and three beds and a kind of larder for the purpose of
+ keeping fish. The whole "lodge" was twenty feet long by three wide,
+ and had three doors. The walls were formed of straight spruce timbers
+ with some skill of carpentry. The roof was covered with bark, and
+ large rods were fixed across the upper part of the building, where
+ fish might hang and dry.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they continued to descend the Fraser River, with here and there a
+ rapid which nearly swamped the canoe, and lofty cliffs of red and
+ white clay like the ruins of ancient castles (stopping on their way to
+ bury supplies of pemmican against their return, and to light a fire on
+ the top of the burial place so as to mislead bears or other animals
+ that might dig it up), they were more or less compelled to seek
+ intercourse with the new tribes of Amerindians, whose presence on the
+ river banks was obvious. As usual, Mackenzie had to exercise great
+ bravery, tact, and guile to get into peaceful conversation with these
+ half-frightened, half-angry people. The peacemaking generally
+ concluded with the distribution of trinkets amongst the men and women,
+ and presents of sugar to the children. Talking with these folk,
+ however, through such interpreters as there were amongst the Indians
+ of his crew, he learnt that lower down on the Fraser River there was a
+ peculiarly fierce, malignant race, living in vast caves or
+ subterranean dwellings, who would certainly massacre the Europeans if
+ they attempted to pass through their country on their way to the sea.
+ He therefore stopped and set some of his men to work to make a new
+ canoe. He noticed, by the by, that these Amerindians of the Fraser had
+ small pointed canoes, "made after the fashion of the Eskimo".
+</p>
+<p>
+ Renewing their voyage, they reached a house the roof of which just
+ appeared above the ground. It was deserted by its inhabitants, who had
+ been alarmed at the approach of the white men, but in the
+ neighbourhood appeared gesticulating warriors with bows and arrows.
+ Yet these people of underground houses turned out to be friendly and
+ very ready to give information, partly because they were in
+ communication with the Amerindian tribes to the east of the Rocky
+ Mountains. From the elderly men of this tribe Mackenzie ascertained
+ that the Fraser River flowed south by east, was often obstructed by
+ rapids, and, though it would finally bring them to a salt lake or
+ inlet, and then to the sea, it would cause them to travel for a great
+ distance to the south. He noticed the complete difference in the
+ language of these Atna or Carrier Indians<a name="11-10"></a><a href="#note-11-10"><small>[10]</small></a> and that of the Nagailer
+ or Chin Indians of the Athapaskan group on the eastern side of the
+ Rocky Mountains.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He, however, learnt from these Atna Indians that although the Fraser
+ was out of the question as a quick route to the sea, if he retraced
+ his journey a little up this river he would find another stream
+ entering it from the west, and along this they could travel upstream.
+ And then the route to the water "which was unfit to drink", and the
+ region to which came people with large ships, would be of no great
+ length. Accordingly, after having had a tree engraved with Mackenzie's
+ name and the date, by the bank of the Fraser River, the expedition
+ returned to the subterranean house which they had seen the day before.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "We were in our canoe by four this morning, and passed by the Indian
+ hut, which appeared in a state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came
+ in sight of the point where we first saw the natives, and at eight
+ were much surprised and disappointed at seeing Mr. Mackay and our two
+ Indians coming alone from the ruins of a house that had been partly
+ carried away by the ice and water, at a short distance below the place
+ where we had appointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and apprehension
+ diminished by the alarm which was painted in their countenances....
+ They informed me they had taken refuge in that place, with the
+ determination to sell their lives ... as dear as possible. In a very
+ short time after we had separated, they met a party of the Indians,
+ whom we had known at this place, and were probably those whom we had
+ seen landing from their canoe. These Indians appeared to be in a state
+ of extreme rage, and had their bows bent, with their arrows across
+ them. The guide stopped to ask them some questions, which our people
+ did not understand, and then set off with his utmost speed. Mr.
+ Mackay, however, followed, and did not leave him till they were both
+ exhausted with running.... The guide then said that some treacherous
+ design was meditated against them, ... and conducted them through very
+ bad ways as fast as they could run. When he was desired to slacken his
+ pace, he answered that they might follow him in any manner they
+ pleased, but that he was impatient to get to his family, in order to
+ prepare shoes and other necessaries for his journey. They did not,
+ however, think it prudent to quit him, and he would not stop till ten
+ at night. On passing a track that was but lately made, they began to
+ be seriously alarmed, and on enquiring of the guide where they were,
+ he pretended not to understand. Then they all laid down, exhausted
+ with fatigue, and without any kind of covering; they were cold, wet,
+ and hungry, but dared not light a fire, from the apprehension of an
+ enemy. This comfortless spot they left at the dawn of day, and, on
+ their arrival at the lodges, found them deserted; the property of the
+ Indians being scattered about, as if abandoned for ever. The guide
+ then made two or three trips into the woods, calling aloud, and
+ bellowing like a madman. At length he set off in the same direction as
+ they had come, and had not since appeared. To heighten their misery,
+ as they did not find us at the place appointed, they concluded that
+ we were all destroyed, and had already formed their plan to take to
+ the woods, and cross in as direct a line as they could proceed, to the
+ waters of the Peace River, a scheme which could only be suggested by
+ despair. They intended to have waited for us till noon, and if we did
+ not appear by that time, to have entered without further delay on
+ their desperate expedition."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Making preparations for warfare, if necessary, yet neglecting no
+ chance of re-entering into friendly relations with the natives,
+ Mackenzie set to work to repair the wretched canoe, which was
+ constantly having holes knocked through her. He dealt tactfully with
+ the almost open mutiny of his French Canadians and Indians. At last
+ everyone settled down to the making of a new canoe, on an island in
+ the river where there were plenty of spruce firs to provide the
+ necessary bark. Even here they were plagued with thunderstorms.
+ Nevertheless, the men set to work, and as they worked Mackenzie
+ addressed them with simple fervour, saying he knew of their plans to
+ desert him, but, come what might, <i>he</i> was resolved to travel on to
+ the westwards until he reached the waters of the Pacific.
+</p>
+<p>
+ This calmed down the mutineers, and, to the great relief of all
+ concerned, that very afternoon the runaway guide of the Atna people
+ returned and apologized for having deserted them. He then offered once
+ again to conduct them to the seacoast. Nevertheless, again he fled,
+ and Mackenzie was obliged to guide the expedition, according to the
+ information he had gathered from the natives, up the small western
+ affluent of the upper Fraser, which he called the West Road River (now
+ known as the Blackwater).
+</p>
+<p>
+ His perseverance was rewarded, for after proceeding up this river for
+ some distance he saw two canoes coming towards them containing the
+ runaway guide and six of his relations. The guide was dressed in a
+ painted beaver robe, and looked so splendid that they scarcely knew
+ him again. Once more he declared it really was his intention not to
+ disappoint them. Soon afterwards they landed, buried their property
+ and provisions, and placed their canoe on a stage, shaded by a
+ covering of small trees and branches from the sun. Each man carried on
+ his back four bags and a half of pemmican, of an average weight of
+ eighty-five pounds, or other loads (instruments, goods for presents,
+ ammunition, &amp;c.) of ninety pounds in weight. Moreover, each of the
+ Canadians carried a gun. The Amerindian servants of the expedition
+ were only asked to carry loads of forty-five pounds in weight.
+ Mackenzie's pack, and that of his companion, Mackay, amounted to about
+ seventy pounds. Loaded like this they had to scramble up the wooded
+ mountains, first soaked in perspiration from the heat and then
+ drenched with heavy rain. Nevertheless they walked for about thirteen
+ miles the first day. Now they began to meet natives who were closely
+ in touch with the seacoast, which lay to the west at a distance of
+ about six days' journey.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "We had no sooner laid ourselves down to rest last night than the
+ natives began to sing, in a manner very different from what I had been
+ accustomed to hear among savages. It was not accompanied either with
+ dancing, drum, or rattle; but consisted of soft, plaintive tones, and
+ a modulation that was rather agreeable: it had somewhat the air of
+ church music." The country through which they travelled abounded in
+ beavers. It was the month of July, however, and they were harassed
+ with thunderstorms, some of which were followed by hailstones as big
+ as musket balls. After one such storm the ground was whitened for two
+ miles with these balls of ice.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In order not to be deserted by all of their new guides, Mackenzie was
+ obliged to insist on one of them sharing his hut. This young
+ Amerindian was dressed in beaver garments which were a nest of
+ vermin. His hair was greased with fish oil, and his body smeared with
+ red earth, so that at first Mackenzie thought he would never be able
+ to sleep; but such was his fatigue that he passed a night of profound
+ repose, and found the guide still there in the morning. In this region
+ he notes that the balsam fir of Canada was abundant, the tree which
+ provided the gum that cured Cartier's expedition of scurvy. Some of
+ the natives with whom they now came into contact were remarkable for
+ their grey eyes, a feature often observed amongst the Amerindians of
+ the North Pacific coast.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "On observing some people before us, our guides hastened to meet them,
+ and, on their approach, one of them stepped forward with an axe in his
+ hand. This party consisted only of a man, two women, and the same
+ number of children. The eldest of the women, who probably was the
+ man's mother, was engaged, when we joined them, in clearing a circular
+ spot, of about five feet in diameter, of the weeds that infested it;
+ nor did our arrival interrupt her employment, which was sacred to the
+ memory of the dead. The spot to which her pious care was devoted
+ contained the grave of a husband and a son, and whenever she passed
+ this way she always stopped to pay this tribute of affection."
+</p>
+<p>
+ By this time, exposure to wind and sun, the attacks of mosquitoes and
+ flies, the difficulty of washing or of changing their clothes, had
+ made all the Europeans of the party as dark in skin colour as the
+ Amerindians, so that such natives as they met who had the courage to
+ examine them, did so with the intention of discovering whether they
+ had any white skin left. The natives whom they now encountered
+ (belonging to the maritime tribes) were comely in appearance, and far
+ more cleanly than the tribes of the north-west. As already mentioned,
+ they had grey eyes, sometimes tinged with hazel. Their stature was
+ noble, one man measuring at least six feet four inches. They were
+ clothed in leather, and their hair was nicely combed and dressed with
+ beads. One of a travelling band of these Indians, finding that
+ Mackenzie's party was on short rations and very hungry, offered to
+ boil them a kettle of fish roes.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "He took the roes out of a bag, and having bruised them between two
+ stones, put them in water to soak. His wife then took an handful of
+ dry grass in her hand, with which she squeezed them through her
+ fingers. In the meantime her husband was employed in gathering wood to
+ make a fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When she had finished
+ her operation, she filled a <i>wátápé</i> kettle nearly full of water, and
+ poured the roes into it. When the stones were sufficiently heated,
+ some of them were put into the kettle, and others were thrown in from
+ time to time, till the water was in a state of boiling. The woman also
+ continued stirring the contents of the kettle, till they were brought
+ to a thick consistency; the stones were then taken out, and the whole
+ was seasoned with about a pint of strong rancid oil. The smell of this
+ curious dish was sufficient to sicken me without tasting it, but the
+ hunger of my people surmounted the nauseous meal. When unadulterated
+ by the stinking oil these boiled roes are not unpalatable food."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Farther on their journey their hunger was alleviated by wild parsnips,
+ also roots which appeared, when pulled up, like a bunch of white peas,
+ with the colour and taste of a potato. On their way they were obliged
+ to cross snow mountains, where the snow was so compact that their feet
+ hardly made any perceptible impression. "Before us appeared a
+ stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was lost in the clouds."
+ These mountains, according to the Indians, abounded in white
+ goats.<a name="11-11"></a><a href="#note-11-11"><small>[11]</small></a> Emerging from the mountains on to the lower ground, sloping
+ towards the sea, at nightfall they came upon a native village in the
+ thickness of the woods. Desperate with his fatigue, and risking any
+ danger to obtain rest, Mackenzie walked straight into one of the
+ houses, where people were busily employed in cooking fish, threw down
+ his burden, shook hands with the people, and sat down.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "They received me without the least appearance of surprise, but soon
+ made signs for me to go up to the large house, which was erected, on
+ upright posts, at some distance from the ground. A broad piece of
+ timber with steps cut in it led to the scaffolding even with the
+ floor, and by this curious kind of ladder I entered the house at one
+ end; and having passed three fires, at equal distances in the middle
+ of the building, I was received by several people, sitting upon a very
+ wide board, at the upper end of it. I shook hands with them, and
+ seated myself beside a man, the dignity of whose countenance induced
+ me to give him that preference...."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Later on, this man, seeing Mackenzie's people arriving tired and
+ hungry, rose and fetched from behind a plank, four feet wide, a
+ quantity of roasted salmon. A whole salmon was offered to Mackenzie,
+ and another to Mackay; half a salmon was given to each of the French
+ Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>. Their host further invited them to sleep in the
+ house, but, Mackenzie thinking it preferable to camp outside, a fire
+ was lit to warm the weary travellers, and each was lent a thick board
+ on which to sleep, so that he might not lie on the bare ground.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "We had not long been seated round the fire when we received a dish of
+ salmon roes, pounded fine and beat up with water so as to have the
+ appearance of a cream. Nor was it without some kind of seasoning that
+ gave it a bitter taste. Another dish soon followed, the principal
+ article of which was also salmon roes, with a large proportion of
+ gooseberries, and an herb that appeared to be sorrel. Its acidity
+ rendered it more agreeable to my taste than the former preparation.
+ Having been regaled with these delicacies, for such they were
+ considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them, we laid
+ ourselves down to rest with no other canopy than the sky. But I never
+ enjoyed a more sound and refreshing rest, though I had a board for my
+ bed and a billet for my pillow."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The gooseberries, wortleberries, and raspberries which Mackenzie ate
+ at this hospitable village were the finest he ever saw or tasted of
+ their respective kinds. They were generally eaten together with the
+ dry roes of salmon. Salmon was the staple food of the country, and
+ very abundant in the river which Mackenzie was following down to the
+ Pacific shore. The fish were usually caught in weirs, and also by
+ dipping nets. The natives were so superstitious about the salmon, that
+ they believed they would give offence to the spirits if they ate any
+ other animal food, especially meat. They would scarcely allow
+ Mackenzie to carry venison in his canoe, in case the salmon should
+ smell it and abandon the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After this welcome rest they embarked in two canoes on the stream
+ which Mackenzie calls the Salmon River. The stream was rapid, and they
+ proceeded at a great rate, stopping every now and then to get out and
+ walk round salmon weirs. Nevertheless, although other Indians ran
+ before them announcing their approach towards a village, the noise of
+ which was apparent in the distance, they were received at this place
+ in a very hostile way, the men rapidly arming themselves with bows and
+ arrows, spears, and axes. But Mackenzie walked on alone to greet them,
+ and shook hands with the nearest man. Thereupon an elderly man broke
+ from the crowd and took Mackenzie in his arms. Another then came and
+ paid him the same compliment. One man to whom he presented his hand
+ broke the string of a handsome robe of sea-otter skin and threw it
+ over Mackenzie.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The chief made signs to the white men to follow him to his house,
+ which Mackenzie found to be of larger dimensions and better materials
+ than any he had yet seen. "Very clean mats" were spread in this house
+ for the chief, his counsellors, and the two white men. A small roasted
+ salmon was then placed before each person.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "When we had satisfied ourselves with the fish, one of the people who
+ came with us from the last village approached, with a kind of ladle in
+ one hand, containing oil, and in the other something that resembled
+ the inner rind of the cocoanut, but of a lighter colour. This he
+ dipped in the oil, and, having eaten it, indicated by his gestures how
+ palatable he thought it. He then presented me with a small piece of
+ it, which I chose to taste in its dry state, though the oil was free
+ from any unpleasant smell. A square cake of this was next produced,
+ when a man took it to the water near the house, and having thoroughly
+ soaked it, he returned, and, after he had pulled it to pieces like
+ oakum, put it into a well-made trough, about three feet long, nine
+ inches wide, and five deep. He then plentifully sprinkled it with
+ salmon oil, and manifested by his own example that we were to eat of
+ it. I just tasted it, and found the oil perfectly sweet, without which
+ the other ingredient would have been very insipid. The chief partook
+ of it with great avidity after it had received an additional quantity
+ of oil. This dish is considered by these people as a great delicacy;
+ and on examination, I discovered it to consist of the inner rind of
+ the hemlock pine tree, taken off early in summer, and put into a
+ frame, which shapes it into cakes of fifteen inches long, ten broad,
+ and half an inch thick; and in this form I should suppose it may be
+ preserved for a great length of time. This discovery satisfied me
+ respecting the many hemlock trees which I had observed stripped of
+ their bark."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie found some of the older men here with long beards, and to
+ one of them he presented a pair of scissors for clipping his beard.
+</p>
+<p>
+ After describing some remarkable oblong "tables" (as they might be
+ called) of cedar wood&mdash;twenty feet long by eight feet broad&mdash;made of
+ thick cedar boards joined together with the utmost neatness, and
+ painted with hieroglyphics and the figures of animals; and his visit
+ to a kind of temple in the village, into the architecture of which
+ strangely carved and painted figures were interwoven; Mackenzie
+ goes on to relate an episode giving one a very vivid idea of the
+ helplessness of "native" medicine in many diseases.
+</p>
+<p>
+ He was taken to see a son of the chief, who was suffering from a
+ terrible ulcer in the small of his back, round which the flesh was
+ gangrened, one of his knees being afflicted in the same way. The poor
+ fellow was reduced to a skeleton, and apparently drawing very near to
+ death.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "I found the native physicians busy in practising their skill and art
+ on the patient. They blew on him, and then whistled; at times they
+ pressed their extended fingers with all their strength on his stomach;
+ they also put their forefingers doubled into his mouth, and spouted
+ water from their own with great violence into his face. To support
+ these operations the wretched sufferer was held up in a sitting
+ posture, and when they were concluded he was laid down and covered
+ with a new robe made of the skin of a lynx. I had observed that his
+ belly and breast were covered with scars, and I understood that they
+ were caused by a custom prevalent among them of applying pieces of
+ lighted touchwood to their flesh, in order to relieve pain or
+ demonstrate their courage. He was now placed on a broad plank, and
+ carried by six men into the woods, where I was invited to accompany
+ them. I could not conjecture what would be the end of this ceremony,
+ particularly as I saw one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third
+ dry wood. I was, indeed, disposed to suspect that, as it was their
+ custom to burn the dead, they intended to relieve the poor man from
+ his pain, and perform the last sad duty of surviving affection. When
+ they had advanced a short distance into the wood, they laid him upon a
+ clear spot, and kindled a fire against his back, when the physician
+ began to scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instrument, the cruel
+ pain of which operation the patient bore with incredible resolution.
+ The scene afflicted me, and I left it."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The chief of this village had probably met Captain Cook about ten
+ years before. He had been down in a large canoe<a name="11-12"></a><a href="#note-11-12"><small>[12]</small></a> with forty of his
+ people to the seacoast, where he saw two large vessels.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Farther down the river the natives, instead of regaling them with
+ fish, placed before them a long, clean, and well-made trough full of
+ berries, most of them resembling blackberries, though white in colour,
+ and others similar to huckleberries. In this region the women were
+ employed in beating and preparing the inner rind of the juniper bark,
+ to which they gave the appearance of flax, and others were spinning
+ with a distaff; again, others were weaving robes of this fibrous
+ thread, intermixed with strips of sea-otter skin. The men were fishing
+ on the river with drag nets between two canoes, thus intercepting the
+ salmon coming up the river.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At last, on Saturday, the 20th of July, 1793, they emerged from the
+ Salmon River into an arm of the sea (probably near King Island). The
+ tide was out, and had <a name="p305"></a>left a large space covered with seaweed. The
+ surrounding hills were involved in fog.... The bay appeared to be some
+ three miles in breadth, and on the coast the travellers saw a great
+ number of sea otters.<a name="11-13"></a><a href="#note-11-13"><small>[13]</small></a> At two in the afternoon the swell was so
+ high, and the wind, which was against them, so boisterous, that they
+ could not proceed along the seacoast in their leaky canoe. A young
+ chief who had come with them as one of their guides, and who had been
+ allowed to leave when the seacoast was reached, returned bearing a
+ large porcupine on his back. He first cut the animal open and threw
+ its entrails into the sea, then singed the skin and boiled it in
+ separate pieces; nor did he go to rest till, with the assistance of
+ two others who happened to be awake, every morsel of it had been
+ devoured. This was fortunate, because their stock of provisions was
+ reduced to twenty pounds' weight of pemmican, sixteen pounds of rice,
+ and six pounds of flour amongst ten men, "in a leaky vessel, and on a
+ barbarous coast".
+</p>
+<p>
+ The rise and fall of the tide here was noted at fifteen feet in
+ height. Mr. Mackay collected a quantity of small mussels, which were
+ boiled and eaten by the two Scotchmen, but not by the Canadians, who
+ were quite unacquainted with sea shellfish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Near Point Menzies, which had already been reached and named by
+ Captain VANCOUVER in the spring of 1793 on his great voyage of
+ discovery up the North American coast,<a name="11-14"></a><a href="#note-11-14"><small>[14]</small></a> Alexander Mackenzie met a
+ party of Amerindians, amongst whom was a man of insolent aspect, who,
+ by means of signs and exclamations, made him understand that he and
+ his friends had been fired at by a white man named Makuba (Vancouver),
+ and that another white man, called "Bensins", had struck him on the
+ back with the flat of his sword. This man more or less compelled
+ Mackenzie to accompany him in the direction of his village, and on the
+ way explained that "Makuba" had come there with his "big boat".
+ Indeed, Mackenzie's party perceived the remains of sheds or buildings
+ on the shore where Europeans had probably made a camp, and here they
+ established themselves, taking up a position of defence, because the
+ attitude of the natives was rather threatening.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At this camp there was a rock, and on this Alexander Mackenzie, mixing
+ up some vermilion or red clay in melted grease, inscribed in large
+ characters the following words: "Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by
+ land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and
+ ninety-three". He then shifted his camp to a place three miles to the
+ north-east, below a precipice from which issued streams of fine water
+ as cold as ice. And here he took careful observations with his
+ astronomical and surveying instruments, in order to fix his position.
+ Fortunately the day was one of bright sunshine. Otherwise, had there
+ been a long persistence of cloud, he might have been obliged to leave
+ the Pacific coast without being able to fix precisely the place where
+ he had reached the sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Then he yielded to the passionate desire of his people to withdraw
+ inland from the possibly dangerous inhabitants of the coast, and
+ returned with them to the encampment where the porcupine had been
+ eaten. Here the guide made off into the woods. Mackenzie followed him,
+ and thus reached a village from which two men issued armed with
+ daggers and intending to attack him. While stopping to defend himself,
+ many other people assembled, and amongst them he recognized the
+ irritating person who incessantly repeated the names "Makuba" and
+ "Benzins". However, this threatened danger was narrowly averted, and
+ eventually they left the village with a supply of food; but also in a
+ state of considerable irritation with&mdash;fleas! For some of the houses
+ of these Pacific coast villages swarmed with fleas to such an extent
+ that Mackenzie and his men were obliged to take to the water to rid
+ themselves of these vermin, which swarmed also on the ground that was
+ bare of grass.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The return journey up the Salmon River was a series of bewildering
+ vicissitudes. Sometimes Mackenzie and his party were received in the
+ most threatening way by persons who had been warm friends on their
+ downward journey, then seemingly inevitable war was transformed into
+ peace, but guides deserted, or the Amerindians from across the Rocky
+ Mountains attempted to mutiny. However, they struggled through all
+ their difficulties, till at last they reached the place known as the
+ Friendly Village, and were here fortunately received with great
+ kindness, being once more entertained "with the most respectful
+ hospitality". "In short, the chief behaved to us with so much
+ attention and kindness that I did not withhold anything in my power to
+ give which might afford him satisfaction.... I presented him with two
+ yards of blue cloth, an axe, knives, and various other articles. He
+ gave me in return a large shell which resembled the under shell of a
+ Guernsey oyster, but was somewhat larger. Where they procure them I
+ could not discover, but they cut and polish them for bracelets,
+ ear-rings, and other personal ornaments...."
+</p>
+<p>
+ The women of this place were employed in boiling sorrel and different
+ kinds of berries in large square kettles made of cedar wood. This
+ pottage, when it had attained a certain consistency, they took out
+ with ladles, and poured it into frames about twelve inches square.
+ These were then exposed to the sun, until their contents became so
+ many dried cakes. This was their principal article of food, and
+ probably of traffic. These people had also made portable chests of
+ cedar, in which they packed these cakes, as well as their salmon, both
+ dried and roasted. The only flesh they ate in addition to the salmon
+ was that of the sea otter and the seal; except that one instance
+ already mentioned of the young Indian who feasted on the flesh of the
+ porcupine.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Their faces are round, with high cheekbones, and their complexion
+ between olive and copper. They have small grey eyes with a tinge of
+ red,... their hair is of a dark-brown colour." The men wore their hair
+ long, and either kept it well combed and hanging loose over the
+ shoulders, or plaited it and bedaubed it with brown earth so as to
+ make it quite impervious to the comb. Those who adopted this fashion
+ had to carry a bone bodkin about with them to ease the frequent
+ irritation which arose from the excessive abundance of vermin in their
+ hair.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The women, on the other hand, usually wore their hair short. Mackenzie
+ noticed that the infants had their heads enclosed with boards covered
+ with leather, to press the skull into the shape of a wedge. The women
+ wore a fringed apron, and over that a long robe made of skins or
+ leather, either loose or tied round the middle with a girdle. Over
+ these in wet weather was worn a cap in the shape of an inverted bowl
+ or dish. The men also wore this cap, and in cold weather used the
+ robe, but in warm weather went about in no clothing at all, except
+ that their feet were protected with shoes made of dressed elks' skins.
+ In wet weather, over their robe they wore a circular mat with an
+ opening in the middle sufficiently large to admit the head. This,
+ spreading over the shoulders, threw off the wet. As compared with the
+ Indians of the Rocky Mountains and the great plains, the men and boys
+ were very cleanly, being constantly in the water. The women, however,
+ were dirty.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At the end of July, 1793, Mackenzie left what he calls the Friendly
+ Village, and prepared to return to the east across the Rocky
+ Mountains, having distributed to each man about twenty pounds weight
+ of smoked salmon, flour, and pemmican. The fatigue of ascending the
+ precipices of the mountains was past description. When they arrived at
+ a spot where water could be obtained, and a camp made, they were in
+ such an extremity of weariness they could hardly crawl about to gather
+ wood for the purpose of making a fire; but two hours afterwards the
+ Amerindians of their party arrived and came to their assistance. Then
+ when they were sitting round a blazing fire, and some of their fatigue
+ had lessened, they could sit and talk of past dangers, and indulge in
+ the delightful reflection that they were thus far advanced on their
+ homeward journey. "Nor was it possible to be in this situation without
+ contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the depth of the precipices
+ below, and the height of the mountains above, with the rude and wild
+ magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not attempt to
+ describe such an astonishing and awful combination of objects.... Even
+ at this place, which is only, as it were, the first step towards
+ gaining the summit of the mountains, the climate was very sensibly
+ changed. The air that fanned the village which we left at noon, was
+ mild and cheering; the grass was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe
+ around it. But here the snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was
+ still bound by the frost, the herbage had scarce begun to spring, and
+ the crowberry bushes were just beginning to blossom."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Eventually they found their canoe, and the property which they had
+ left behind, in perfect safety. At this camp, where the canoe had been
+ left behind, many natives arrived both from the upper and lower parts
+ of the river, all of them dressed in beaver robes, which they were
+ ready enough to sell for large knives. It struck Alexander Mackenzie
+ as being very extraordinary that these people, who had left absolutely
+ untouched the property stored at this place&mdash;when anyone passing by
+ could have stolen it and never have been detected&mdash;should now be so
+ ready to pilfer articles and utensils from the camp. So many small
+ things had been picked up and taken away by them, when coming to sell
+ their beaver robes, that he was obliged to take some action. So,
+ before all these beaver-clad Amerindians had departed on their
+ westward journey, he told the rearguard that he had noticed the
+ thefts, and scarcely thought their relations who were guilty of
+ stealing realized the awful mischief that would result from this
+ dishonesty; that they were on their way now to the sea to procure
+ large quantities of salmon from the rivers, but the salmon, which was
+ absolutely necessary to their existence, came from the sea which
+ belonged to the white men, and it only needed a message from the white
+ men to the powers of nature to prevent the fish coming up from the sea
+ into the rivers; and if this word were spoken they and their children
+ might starve. He consequently advised them to hurry after their
+ friends, and see that all the stolen articles were sent back. This
+ plan succeeded. The stolen articles were restored, and then Mackenzie
+ purchased from these people several large salmon, and his party
+ enjoyed a delicious meal.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Mackenzie declared that there were no bison to be found on the west
+ side of the Rocky Mountains<a name="11-15"></a><a href="#note-11-15"><small>[15]</small></a> (British Columbia), and no wolves.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Resuming their journey up the Fraser River, they passed through the
+ narrow gut between mountainous rocks, which on the outward journey had
+ been a passage of some risk. But now the state of the water was such
+ that, they got up without difficulty, and had more time to examine
+ these extraordinary rocks, which were as perpendicular as a wall, and
+ gave the traveller the idea of a succession of enormous Gothic
+ cathedrals. With little difficulty they transported their canoe across
+ the water parting to the Peace River.
+</p>
+<p>
+ As they began to glide down this stream, homeward bound, they noticed
+ at the entrance of a small tributary an object which proved to be four
+ beaver skins hung up to attract their attention. These were the skins
+ which had been given to Mackenzie as a present by a native as he
+ travelled westwards. Not wishing to add to his loads, he had left the
+ skins behind, saying he would call for them on his return. Mackenzie
+ imagined, therefore, that, being under the necessity of leaving the
+ river, this Indian had hung up the skins in the hope that they would
+ attract the attention of the travellers on their return. "To reward
+ his honesty, I left three times the value of the skins in trade goods
+ in their place." As the Peace River carried them away from the great
+ mountains, and the plains extended before their sight, they stopped to
+ repair the canoe and to get in supplies of food from the herds of game
+ that were visible. They began with a hearty meal of bison beef. "Every
+ fear of future want was removed." Soon afterwards they killed an elk,
+ the carcass of which weighed over two hundred and fifty pounds. "As we
+ had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock, it might naturally be
+ supposed that we should not be very voracious at supper; nevertheless,
+ a kettleful of elk flesh was boiled and eaten, and that vessel
+ replenished with more meat and put on the fire. All that remained of
+ the bones, &amp;c, were placed after the Indian fashion round the fire to
+ roast, and at ten the next morning the whole was consumed by ten
+ persons and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the banquet. Nor
+ did any inconvenience result from what may be considered as an
+ inordinate indulgence."
+</p>
+<p>
+ On the 24th of August, 1793, Mackenzie was back again at Fort
+ Chipewayan, after an absence of eleven months, having been the first
+ white man to cross the broad continent of North America from the
+ Atlantic to the Pacific, north of Mexico.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="note-11-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-1"><u>1</u></a> See Sir Alexander Mackenzie's <i>Travels</i>, p. 5.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-2"><u>2</u></a> Peter Pond was a native of Connecticut, and in the
+ opinion of his trading associates rather a ruffian. He was strongly
+ suspected of having murdered an amiable Swiss fur trader named Wadin,
+ and at a later date he actually did kill his trading partner, Ross.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-3"><u>3</u></a> See p. <a href="#p125">125</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-4"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-4"><u>4</u></a> Alexander Mackay long afterwards left the service of the
+ North-west Company, and was killed by savages on the Alaska coast,
+ near Nutka Sound.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-5"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-5"><u>5</u></a> For the word "elk" Mackenzie uses "moose deer". "Elk" in
+ the Canadian Dominion is misapplied to the great Wapiti red deer.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-6"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-6"><u>6</u></a> See p. <a href="#p281">281</a>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-7"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-7"><u>7</u></a> Mr. Burpee points out that this was really the
+ southernmost source of the mighty congeries of streams which flowed
+ northwards to form the Mackenzie River system. Having traced the
+ Mackenzie to the sea, its discoverer now stood four years afterwards
+ at its most remote source, 2420 miles from its mouth at which he had
+ seen the ice floes and the whales.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-8"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-8"><u>8</u></a> Humming birds arrive annually in British Columbia between
+ April and May, and stay there till the autumn. They winter in the
+ warmer parts of California.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-9"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-9"><u>9</u></a> The great surveyor and map maker, David Thompson, was the
+ first white man to reach the upper waters of the <i>Columbia</i> River. The
+ Fraser River was afterwards followed to its outlet in the Straits of
+ Georgia (opposite Vancouver Island) by Simon Fraser.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-10"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-10"><u>10</u></a> Apparently these were of the Sikanni tribe, and only
+ another branch of the great Tinné (Athapaskan) stock.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-11"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-11"><u>11</u></a> <i>Oreamnus</i>.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-12"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-12"><u>12</u></a> Mackenzie thus describes one of the large sea-going
+ canoes of the coast natives: "This canoe was built of cedar,
+ forty-five feet long, four feet broad, and three and a half in depth.
+ It was painted black and decorated with white figures of different
+ kinds. The gunwale fore and aft was inlaid with the teeth of the sea
+ otter." He adds that "these coast tribes (north of Vancouver Island
+ and of Queen Charlotte Sound) had been in indirect contact with the
+ Spaniards since the middle of the sixteenth century, and with the
+ Russians from the middle of the eighteenth century. Therefore, from
+ these two directions they had learnt the use of metal, and had
+ obtained copper, brass, and iron. They may possibly have had copper
+ earlier still from the Northern Indians on the other side of the Rocky
+ Mountains; but brass and iron they could, of course, only have
+ obtained from Europeans. They had already become very deft at dealing
+ with these metals, and twisted the iron into collars which weighed
+ upwards of twelve pounds, also beating it into plates for their
+ daggers and knives."
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-13"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-13"><u>13</u></a> These <i>may</i> have been small seals, but the sea otter
+ (<i>Enhydris lutris</i>), now nearly extinct, was at one time found in
+ numbers along the north-west American coast, from the Aleutian Islands
+ and Alaska to Oregon. Owing to persecution it now leads an almost
+ entirely aquatic life, resting at times on the masses of floating
+ seaweed.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-14"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-14"><u>14</u></a> GEORGE VANCOUVER (born about 1758, and probably
+ descended from Dutch or Flemish ancestors) was one of the great
+ pioneers of the British Empire. His name is commemorated in
+ Vancouver's Island, an important portion of British Columbia.
+ Vancouver entered the navy when only thirteen, sailed with Captain
+ Cook, and eventually was appointed to command a naval expedition sent
+ out in 1791 to survey and take over from the Spaniards the north-west
+ American coast north of Oregon. It is remarkable that he should only
+ have missed Mackenzie's arrival at Point Menzies by about two months.
+ With what amazed rejoicing would these two heroic explorers have
+ greeted one another had they met on this remote point of the Pacific
+ coast, the one coming overland (so to speak) from Quebec and the
+ Atlantic, and the other all the way by sea from Falmouth via the Cape
+ of Good Hope, Australia, New Zealand, Tahiti, and Hawaii.
+</p>
+<a name="note-11-15"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#11-15"><u>15</u></a> He was not quite accurate: there were a few "wood" bison
+ in the north and east of British Columbia.
+</p>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a>]
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+<a name="2HCH0012"><!-- H2 anchor --></a>
+
+<div style="height: 4em;"><br><br><br><br></div>
+
+<h2>
+ CHAPTER XII
+</h2>
+<h3>
+ Mackenzie's Successors
+</h3>
+<p>
+ The Spaniards of California had been aware in the middle of the
+ eighteenth century that there was a big river entering the sea to the
+ north of the savage country known as Oregon. The estuary of this river
+ was reached in May, 1792, by an American sea captain of a whaling
+ ship&mdash;ROBERT GRAY, of Boston. He crossed the bar, and named the great
+ stream after his own ship, the <i>Columbia</i>. Five months afterwards
+ (October, 1792) Lieutenant BROUGHTON, of the Vancouver expedition,
+ entered the Columbia from the sea, explored it upstream for a hundred
+ miles, and formally took possession of it for the King of Great
+ Britain. The news of this discovery reached Alexander Mackenzie (no
+ doubt after his return from his overland journey to the Pacific
+ coast), and he at once jumped to the conclusion that the powerful
+ stream he had discovered in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, and had
+ partially followed on its way to the Pacific, must be the Columbia. As
+ a matter of fact it was the river afterwards called Fraser.
+</p>
+<p>
+ If you look at the map of British North America, and then at the map
+ of Russian Asia&mdash;Siberia&mdash;you will notice a marked difference in the
+ arrangement of the waterways. Those of the Canadian Dominion, on the
+ whole, flow more eastwards and westwards, or at any rate radiate in
+ all directions, so as to constitute the most wonderful system of
+ natural canals possessed by any country or continent. On the contrary,
+ the rivers of Siberia flow usually in somewhat parallel lines from
+ south to north. Siberia also is far less well provided than British
+ North America with an abundance of navigable rivers, streams, and
+ great lakes. Therefore the traveller in pre-railway days wishing to
+ cross Siberia from west to east or east to west was obliged to have
+ recourse to wheeled traffic, to ride, or to walk. Consequently, until
+ the beginning of the twentieth century, the "exploitation" (or turning
+ to useful account) of Siberia was a far more difficult process than
+ the development of North America, once the question of British
+ <i>versus</i> French or Spanish was settled. Siberia at one time was almost
+ as rich in fur-bearing animals as British North America; yet so
+ difficult was transport (and so severe were the rigours of the
+ climate) that the Russians, once they reached the shores of the
+ Pacific at the beginning of the eighteenth century, began to stretch
+ out their influence to the opposite peninsula of Alaska mainly on
+ account of the fur trade. For it was easier and less expensive to
+ bring furs from Alaska round Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, to
+ Europe than to convey them overland from eastern Siberia. Then, also,
+ the Chinese market was becoming of importance to the fur trade.
+ Already Mackenzie, at the end of the eighteenth century, is found
+ considering whether a sea trade between China and a British port on
+ the North Pacific coast could not be arranged so as to develop a
+ profitable market among the mandarins and grandees of the Celestial
+ Empire for a good proportion of the North-west Company's skins.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0018"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<a href="images/map18-large.jpg"><img src="images/map18-small.jpg" width="400" height="600" alt="Map of Part Of the Coast Region Of British Columbia"></a>
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<p class="ar"> [<a href="images/map18-large.jpg"><small>LARGER MAP</small></a>]
+<p>
+ Peter Pond, already referred to on p. <a href="#p278">278</a>, is said to have expressed
+ his intention (in 1788) of going to treat with the Empress Catherine
+ II for a Russian occupation of the Alaskan and Columbian coasts. For
+ this reason, or the mere desire to have a proportion of this
+ fur-producing country, the Emperor Paul, in 1799, created a Russian
+ Chartered Company to occupy the Alaska and north Columbian coasts.
+ Great Britain offered no objection&mdash;in spite of having acquired some
+ rights here by an agreement with Spain&mdash;and that is why, when you look
+ at the map of the vast Canadian Dominion, you find with surprise that
+ it has been robbed (one might almost say) of at least half of its
+ legitimate Pacific seaboard. The Russian Company was allowed to claim
+ the north Columbian coast between Alaska proper and Queen Charlotte
+ Islands.
+</p>
+<p>
+ In 1867 the Russian Government sold all Alaska and the north Columbian
+ coast to the United States, partly to annoy Great Britain, whom it had
+ not forgiven for the Crimean War.
+</p>
+<p>
+ You will have noticed that quite a number of United States citizens
+ (mostly born British subjects in New England) had taken part in the
+ north-west fur trade immediately after the British conquest of Canada
+ disposed of French monopolies. There were Jonathan Carver and Peter
+ Pond, for example; and a much more worthy person than the last
+ named&mdash;Daniel W. Harmon, a New Englander, who entered the service of
+ the North-west Company in 1800, and followed in Mackenzie's footsteps
+ to the upper Fraser River and the vicinity of the Skeena. Simon Fraser
+ also, whose tracing of the Fraser River from its upper waters to the
+ Pacific coast we shall presently deal with, was a native of Vermont,
+ though his father came from Scotland. The furs which began to
+ penetrate into the United States by way of Detroit and Niagara, the
+ rising scale of luxury in dress in the towns of the eastern seaboard
+ of the United States, the voyages of American whalers up the west
+ coast of North America (including the discovery of the Columbia River
+ in 1792 by Captain Robert Gray), the purchase of Louisiana from the
+ Emperor Napoleon in 1804&mdash;with the vague claim it gave to the coast
+ line of Oregon on the Pacific: all these circumstances inspired
+ far-sighted persons in the United States at the beginning of the
+ nineteenth century with a wish to secure for their Government and
+ commerce a share in the fur trade and in these wonderful new lands of
+ the Pacific watershed. American ships (whaling ships) had already
+ become accustomed to sail round Cape Horn and to visit the Oregon and
+ Alaskan coasts. The American Government therefore, immediately after
+ the Louisiana purchase, dispatched an American expedition under
+ Captains Meriwether Lewis and Jonathan Clarke to travel up the
+ Missouri River and so across the mountains to the coast of Oregon, a
+ wonderful expedition, which they carried out with great success in two
+ years (1804-6), reaching the lower Columbia River and following it
+ down to the sea.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Consequently, with all this in the air, it is not very surprising that
+ the far-sighted John Jacob Astor, a wealthy German merchant of New
+ York, should have conceived the idea of founding a great American
+ fur-trading company and of establishing it at the mouth of the
+ Columbia River.
+</p>
+<p>
+ At the beginning of the nineteenth century he had entered into
+ arrangements with an Anglo-Canadian Company (the Mackinaw), which
+ worked the southernmost part of Canada, to fuse its enterprise with
+ his, and thus founded the <i>South-west Company</i>, the name of which (at
+ any rate in current speech) was afterwards changed into the Pacific
+ Fur-trading Company. After attempting in vain to come to a working
+ arrangement with the great North-west Company, he decided to act quite
+ independently and to establish the headquarters of his new concern at
+ the mouth of the Columbia River. Accordingly, the expedition was sent
+ out in duplicate to the mouth of the Columbia River, one-half going a
+ six-months' voyage round Cape Horn in a sailing ship, the <i>Tonquin</i>,
+ and the other marching overland or canoeing on lakes and rivers in
+ eighteen months from Montreal via the Mississippi and Missouri. These
+ two parties together founded "Astoria", at the mouth of the Columbia.
+ But most of Astor's employees were British subjects derived from men
+ of the North-west and Mackinaw Companies; and when, in 1812, war
+ broke out between the United States and Great Britain, a British war
+ vessel came up the Pacific coast to Astoria and promptly turned it
+ into "Fort George". Forthwith the North-west Company bought up the
+ derelict property of Mr. Astor's Company from his not very honest
+ British employees, and the few Americans in the concern retreated
+ inland, and, after almost incredible sufferings from the attacks of
+ unfriendly Indians, succeeded in reaching the Mississippi.
+</p>
+<a name="image-0019"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc19.jpg" width="425" height="271"
+alt="The Kootenay Or Head Stream of the Columbia River">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>THE KOOTENAY OR HEAD STREAM OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER</h5>
+<p>
+ This Columbia River had in reality been discovered at its sources, and
+ traced down to the sea, between 1807 and 1811 by DAVID THOMPSON (once
+ a Blue-coat boy in London; from 1784 to 1792 in the service of the
+ Hudson's Bay Company, and after that one of the most famous of the
+ Nor'-westers). The upper course of this river and its northern
+ affluents were annexed as British by David Thompson; the lower course
+ did not at once become the political property of the United States,
+ but was considered vaguely to be the joint property of both nations,
+ till the Oregon settlement of 1846. By the treaty of 1792, the
+ southern boundary of central Canada was agreed upon as being the 49th
+ degree of north latitude, but only between the Lake of the Woods and
+ the Rocky Mountains. The agreement of 1846 continued the 49th degree
+ boundary to the shore of the Pacific opposite Vancouver Island.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Prominent among the agents of the North-western Company who followed
+ Sir Alexander Mackenzie as a pioneer towards the Pacific shores was
+ ALEXANDER HENRY THE YOUNGER,<a name="12-1"></a><a href="#note-12-1"><small>[1]</small></a> regarding whose journeys some extracts
+ may be given.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The first entry in his diary of 1799 is not particularly romantic, but
+ shows some of the unexpected dangers attending the life of an
+ adventurer in the far north-west. He had been riding through the
+ Assiniboin country in the autumn of 1799, probably after one of the
+ very indigestible meals which he describes here and there in his
+ pages. Alone, and crossing an open plain swarming with wolves, he was
+ seized suddenly with a violent colic, the pain of which was so
+ terrible that he could not remain in the saddle. He dismounted,
+ hobbled his horse, and threw himself on the grass, where he lay in
+ agony for two hours, expecting every moment would be his last, till,
+ quite exhausted, he fell asleep. He was awakened, however, by the
+ howling of the wolves advancing to tear him to pieces; yet he was so
+ weak that he was scarcely able to mount his horse, and then could only
+ proceed at a slow walk, with the wolves snapping at his horse's heels.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Near the site of the present city of Winnipeg, in the late summer of
+ 1800, he and his expedition were much troubled by swarms of water
+ snakes. They were harmless but not pleasant in their familiarity, for
+ they entered the tents and took refuge in the explorers' beds; and as
+ they apparently came from their breeding places in Amerindian graves
+ which covered the remains of people who had died of smallpox in a
+ recent epidemic, they were additionally loathsome.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Smallpox indeed played a very important part in the historical
+ development of western North America. Prior to 1780 the Amerindian
+ tribes between the upper Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and
+ between the Saskatchewans and the Missouri, were numerous and warlike.
+ At first, about 1765, they received in very friendly fashion the
+ pioneer British traders and French Canadians who attempted to resume
+ the fur trade where it had been dropped by the French monopolists in
+ 1760. But fifteen years afterwards, enraged at the violence and
+ wrongdoing of the British and Canadian traders, and maddened by strong
+ drink, they were planning a universal massacre of the whites, when
+ suddenly smallpox (introduced by the Spaniards into New Mexico) came
+ on them as a scourge, which destroyed whole tribes, and depopulated
+ much of western North America.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Alexander Henry had many adventures with the bison of the plains. Here
+ is one of them.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "Just as I came up to him at full speed and prepared to fire, my horse
+ suddenly stopped. The bull had turned about to face my horse, which
+ was naturally afraid of buffaloes, and startled at such a frightful
+ object; he leaped to one side to avoid the bull. As I was not prepared
+ for this I was pitched over his head, and fell within a few yards of
+ the bull's nose; but fortunately for me he paid no more attention to
+ my horse than to me. The grass was long, and I lay quiet until a
+ favourable opportunity offered as he presented his placotte. I
+ discharged both barrels of my double gun at him; he turned and made
+ one plunge toward me, but had not time to repeat it before he fell,
+ with his nose not more than three paces off.... I had to return on
+ foot as my horse had bolted."
+</p>
+<p>
+ At this place&mdash;near the Red River (the season September)&mdash;the country
+ swarmed with big game such as North America will never see any more:
+ enormous numbers of bison, of wapiti or Canadian red deer, moose or
+ elk, prong-buck, and of grizzly bears and black bears who followed the
+ herds to attack them. The rivers swarmed with otters and beavers. The
+ ground along the banks of the river was worn into a smooth, hard
+ pavement by the hoofs of the thousands of buffaloes. Racoons, red
+ foxes, wolves, and pumas frequented the bush country and the chumps of
+ forest. A large white wolf, prowling rather imprudently, came within a
+ few yards of Henry, and was shot dead. "We observed on the opposite
+ beach no fewer than seven bears drinking all at the same time. Red
+ deer were whistling in every direction, but our minds were not
+ sufficiently at ease to enjoy our situation." Large flocks of swans
+ (<i>Cygnus columbianus</i>) rose out of the Red River apparently in a state
+ of alarm and confusion, possibly caused by the many herds of buffaloes
+ rushing down to the river to drink. At night everything was quiet
+ except the bellowing of buffaloes and the whistling of red deer. "I
+ climbed up a tall oak at the entrance of the plain, from the top of
+ which I had an extensive view of the country. Buffalo and red deer
+ were everywhere in sight passing to and fro."
+</p>
+<p>
+ But the prairie had its nuisances as well as its wonders of animal
+ life. From the end of April to the end of July the woods and grass
+ swarmed with ticks (<i>Ixodes</i>), which covered the clothes of the
+ Europeans and entered their ears and there caused serious
+ inflammations. They would in time get such a firm hold by the
+ insertion of their heads into the skin that they could not be removed
+ without pulling the body from the head, which caused a terrible
+ itching lasting for months. If left alone they adhered to the flesh
+ until they swelled to the size of a musket ball, when they fell off of
+ themselves. In the summertime gadflies were exasperating in their
+ attacks on men and cattle. Mosquitoes were a veritable plague, and
+ midges also, between June and the end of September.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Not the least of the terrors of life in the far north-west in those
+ days was the vermin that collected in the houses or huts built for a
+ winter sojourn. It is frequently mentioned, in the records of the
+ pioneers, how the lodges or tents of the Amerindians swarmed with
+ fleas and lice. Henry notes on the 19th of April, 1803: "The men began
+ to demolish our dwelling houses, which were built of bad wood, and to
+ build new ones of oak. The nests of mice we found, and the swarms of
+ fleas hopping in every direction, were astonishing."
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry reached the Pacific coast in 1814, by way of the Kootenay,
+ Spokane, and Columbia River route, which had been discovered by David
+ Thompson. He describes well the forests of remarkable trees on this
+ portion of the Pacific coast, opposite the south end of Vancouver
+ Island: the crooked oaks loaded with mistletoe, the tall wild cherry
+ trees, the hazels with trunks thicker than a man's thigh, the
+ evergreen arbutus, the bracken fern, blackberries, and black
+ raspberries; and the game in these glades of trees and fern: small
+ Columbian <i>Mazama</i> deer, large lynxes, bears, gluttons, wolves, foxes,
+ racoons, and squirrels. Overhead soared huge Californian condors
+ (<i>Pseudogryphus</i>).
+</p>
+<p>
+ Henry was drowned in 1812 in the estuary of the Columbia River,
+ through the capsizing of a boat.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The question of the identity of the great river flowing to the Pacific
+ from near the headwaters of the Peace&mdash;the river which Mackenzie had
+ discovered and been forced to leave&mdash;was finally decided by SIMON
+ FRASER, one of the most celebrated among the North-west Company's
+ pioneers. Like Mackenzie, he believed this stream to be the upper
+ Columbia.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Accompanied by John Stuart and Jules Quesnel, he left the Fraser River
+ at its junction with the Nechaco on May 22, 1807, and, keeping as near
+ as he could to the course of the river, found himself in the country
+ of the Atna tribe, Amerindians of a diminutive size but active
+ appearance, from whom he obtained an invaluable guide and faithful
+ interpreter, Little Fellow, but for whose bravery, wise advice, and
+ clever diplomacy the journey must have ended in disaster or
+ disappointment&mdash;a remark which might be made about nearly all the
+ Amerindian guides of the pioneers.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Atna Indians were dressed in skins with the hair outside, and were
+ armed with bows and arrows. They besmeared their bodies with fish oil
+ and red earth, and painted their faces in different colours. Bison
+ were quite unknown to them, being very seldom found in those latitudes
+ on the western side of the Rocky Mountains. The country of the Atna
+ Indians on the upper Fraser abounded in elk, wapiti, reindeer, bighorn
+ sheep, mountain goats,<a name="12-2"></a><a href="#note-12-2"><small>[2]</small></a> and beaver.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Here is a description by Fraser of some of the rapids in the upper
+ part of the river named after him.
+</p>
+<p>
+ "The channel contracts to about forty yards, and is enclosed by two
+ precipices of immense height, which bending towards each other make it
+ narrower above than below. The water which rolls down this
+ extraordinary passage in tumultuous waves and with great velocity has
+ a frightful appearance. However, it being impossible to carry canoes
+ by land, all hands without hesitation embarked, as it were, <i>à corps
+ perdu</i> upon the mercy of this awful tide. Once engaged, the die was
+ cast. Our great difficulty consisted in keeping the canoes in the
+ middle of the stream, that is, clear of the precipice on the one side,
+ and of the gulfs formed by the waves on the other. Thus, skimming
+ along as fast as lightning, the crews, cool and determined, followed
+ each other in awful silence, and when we arrived at the end we stood
+ gazing at each other in silent gratification at our narrow escape from
+ total destruction.... I scarcely ever saw anything so dreary and
+ dangerous in any country (such precipices, mountains, and rapids), and
+ I still seem to see, whichever way I turn my eyes, mountains upon
+ mountains whose summits are covered with eternal snow."
+</p>
+<a name="image-0020"><!--IMG--></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/pc20.jpg" width="425" height="271"
+alt="A Hunter's 'shack' in British Columbia: After A
+Successful Shoot of Blue Grouse">
+</center>
+<!--IMAGE END-->
+<h5>A HUNTER'S 'SHACK' IN BRITISH COLUMBIA: AFTER A SUCCESSFUL SHOOT OF BLUE GROUSE</h5>
+<p>
+ They had to take to these same mountains, the river being unnavigable.
+ The Asketti Indians brought them different kinds of roots, especially
+ wild onions boiled into a syrup, excellent dried salmon, and some
+ berries. These Indians had visited the seacoast, and had seen ships of
+ war come there with white men, "very well dressed, and very proud,
+ for," continued the chief, getting up and clapping his two hands upon
+ his hips, and then striding <a name="p323"></a>about the place with an air of
+ importance, "this is the way they go". In this country of the Hakamaw
+ and Asketti Indians, dogs were much in use for carrying purposes, and
+ could draw from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds. They were
+ considered by the French Canadians very good eating, though only the
+ smaller kinds were eaten, the large dogs being of another race and
+ having a rank taste. They also shaved these dogs in the summer time,
+ and wove rugs from their hair. These rugs were striped in different
+ colours, crossing at right angles, and resembling at a distance a
+ Highland plaid.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The tombs of the Indian villages on this western side of the Rocky
+ Mountains were superior to anything that Fraser had ever seen amongst
+ savages. They were about fifteen feet long, and of the form of a chest
+ of drawers. Upon the boards and posts, beasts and birds were carved in
+ a curious but crude manner, and pretty well proportioned. Returning to
+ the river, when the worst of the rapids were passed, they descended it
+ rapidly, helped by a strong current, and at length entered a lake
+ where they saw seals, which showed that they had got near to the
+ Pacific Ocean. They also beheld a round mountain, the now celebrated
+ Mount Baker, which is visible from so much of the surrounding country
+ of British Columbia and Vancouver Island. The trees were splendid,
+ junipers thirty feet in circumference in their trunks and two or three
+ hundred feet high. Mosquitoes, however, were in clouds. Nearer to the
+ coast the Indians often appeared in the distance like white men, for
+ the very literal reason that they had covered their skins with white
+ paint. Their houses were built of cedar planks, and were six hundred
+ and forty feet long by sixty feet broad, all under one roof, but of
+ course separated into a great number of partitions for different
+ families. On the outside the boards (as Mackenzie had noticed) were
+ carved with figures of men, beasts, and birds as large as life. Simon
+ Fraser, however, when he reached sea water, near the site of New
+ Westminster, was greatly disappointed that any view of the main ocean
+ should be obstructed by distant lands. He had believed all along that
+ he was tracing the far-famed Columbia River to its entrance into the
+ Pacific Ocean; and now that, instead of this, he had discovered an
+ entirely new river, henceforth to be called after him but without so
+ long a course as the Columbia, his vanity was hurt.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Amerindians of the sea coast, opposite Vancouver Island, showed
+ hostility to Fraser's party, as they had done farther north to
+ Mackenzie. The Canadian <i>voyageurs</i> got alarmed, and told Fraser's
+ assistant, John Stuart, that they had made up their minds to return by
+ land across the Rocky Mountains. Fraser and the other officers of the
+ expedition joined in arguing with them and recalling them to their
+ senses. Finally each member of the party swore a solemn oath before
+ Almighty God that they would sooner perish than forsake in distress
+ any of the crew in the present voyage. After this ceremony was over
+ all hands dressed in their best apparel, and each took charge of his
+ own bundle. They therefore returned as much as possible by the Fraser
+ River, and only took to the mountains when obliged by the rapids. They
+ had to pass many difficult rocks, defiles, precipices, in which there
+ was a beaten path made by the natives, and made possible by means of
+ scaffolds, bridges, and ladders, so peculiarly constructed that it
+ required no small degree of necessity, dexterity, and courage in
+ strangers to undertake them. For instance, they had to ascend
+ precipices by means of ladders composed of two long poles placed
+ upright, with sticks tied crosswise with twigs; upon the end of these
+ others were placed, and so on to any height; add to this that the
+ ladders were often so slack that the smallest breeze put them in
+ motion, swinging them against the rocks, while the steps leading from
+ scaffold to scaffold were so narrow and irregular that they could
+ scarcely be traced by the feet without the greatest care and
+ circumspection; but the most perilous part was when another rock
+ projected over the one they were clearing.
+</p>
+<p>
+ The Hakamaw Indians certainly deserved Fraser's grateful remembrance
+ for their able assistance throughout these alarming situations. The
+ descents were, if possible, still more difficult; in these places the
+ white men were under the necessity of trusting their property to the
+ Indians, even the precious guns were handed from one Indian to
+ another; yet they thought nothing of it, they went up and down these
+ wild places with the same agility as sailors do on a ship. After
+ escaping innumerable perils in the course of the day, the party
+ encamped about sunset, being supplied by the natives with plenty of
+ dried fish.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Thus the main lines of the exploration of the great Canadian Dominion
+ were completed. Alexander Mackenzie went to England in 1799 and
+ received a knighthood for his remarkable achievements. On his return
+ he first definitely created the New North-west or "X.Y." Company, and
+ then brought about its fusion (after several years of bitter rivalry)
+ with the old North-west Company; and it was this united and
+ strengthened organization which, between 1804 and 1819, sent out so
+ many bold pioneers to fill in the details of the map between the
+ Columbia and Missouri on the south, and the Great Slave Lake and Liard
+ River on the north. But during these years the energies of the
+ Hudson's Bay Company were reviving under a strange personality&mdash;THOMAS
+ DOUGLAS, EARL OF SELKIRK. Lord Selkirk conceived the idea of putting
+ new life into the Hudson's Bay Company, reviving the monopolies of
+ trading granted in its old charter, and turning its vague rights to
+ land into the absolute ownership of the enormous area of North
+ America north and west of the Canadian provinces. No regard of course
+ was paid to any rights of the natives, who as a matter of fact were
+ dying out rapidly from the effects of bad alcohol and epidemic
+ diseases.
+</p>
+<p>
+ His motive was to establish large colonies of stalwart Highlanders as
+ the tenants of a Chartered Company. Alexander Mackenzie had already
+ called the north-west country "New Caledonia". Lord Selkirk wished to
+ make it so in its population.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Already he had been instrumental in establishing a Scottish colony on
+ Prince Edward's Island,<a name="12-3"></a><a href="#note-12-3"><small>[3]</small></a> which, after some difficulties at the
+ beginning, had soon begun to prosper. Two or three years later he came
+ to Montreal, and there collected all the information he could obtain
+ from the partners in the North-west Company regarding the prospects of
+ trade and colonization in the far west. In the year 1811 he had
+ managed to acquire the greater part of the shares in the Hudson's Bay
+ Company, and, placing himself at its head, he sent out his first
+ hundred Highlanders and Irish to form a feudatory colony in the Red
+ River district (the modern Manitoba). He also dispatched an official
+ to govern what might be called the Middle West on behalf of the
+ Hudson's Bay Company. This person, acting under instructions, claimed
+ the whole region beyond the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada as the
+ private property of the Hudson's Bay Company, on the strength of their
+ antiquated charter issued by Charles II. The agents of the North-west
+ Company were warned (as also the two or three thousand French
+ Canadians and half-breeds in their pay) that henceforth they must not
+ cut wood, fish or hunt, build or cultivate, save by the permission and
+ as the tenants of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+</p>
+<p>
+ It is not surprising that such an outrageous demand, when it was
+ followed up by the use of armed force, soon provoked bloodshed and a
+ state of civil war throughout the North-west Territories. Lord Selkirk
+ himself took command on the Red River, with a small army of
+ disciplined soldiers. At length, in 1817, the British Government
+ intervened through the Governor-General of Canada, and in 1818 Lord
+ Selkirk left North America disgusted, and two years afterwards died at
+ Pau, in France, from an illness brought on by grief at the failure of
+ his projects.
+</p>
+<p>
+ Sir Alexander Mackenzie also died suddenly in 1820, in Scotland. For
+ twelve years he had been member of parliament for Huntingdon, and
+ since 1812 had been the determined opponent in England of Lord
+ Selkirk's plans of forcible colonization. After his death, however, in
+ 1821, a sudden movement for reconciliation took place between the two
+ Companies. Thenceforth the Hudson's Bay Company ruled over the vast
+ regions of British North America, beyond Newfoundland, New Brunswick,
+ Nova Scotia, and the two Canadian provinces. Under their government
+ the work of geographical exploration went on apace. In 1834 one of
+ their officers, J. M'Leod, discovered the Stikine River in northern
+ British Columbia, and by 1848 J. Bell and Robert Campbell had revealed
+ the Porcupine and Yukon Rivers. By the time Thomas Simpson, Warren
+ Dease, and Dr. John Rae, on behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company; and
+ Franklin, Back, Parry, Richardson, and M'Clintock, for the Imperial
+ Government, had completed the explorations mentioned in Chapter VI,
+ all the main features of Canadian geography were made known. The next
+ series of pioneers were to be those of the mining industry&mdash;it was the
+ discovery of gold in 1856 which created British Columbia; of
+ agriculture&mdash;the wheat-growers of the Red River region made the
+ province of Manitoba; of the steamboat; and above all the railway.
+ Developments of science scarcely yet dreamt of will demand in further
+ time their pioneers, and these will not come from abroad, but will
+ assuredly be found in this splendid Canadian people, the descendants
+ of the men or of the types of men I have attempted to describe.
+</p>
+<hr class="short">
+
+<a name="note-12-1"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#12-1"><u>1</u></a> The nephew of the Alexander Henry already mentioned as an
+ explorer between 1761 and 1775.
+</p>
+<a name="note-12-2"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#12-2"><u>2</u></a> This remarkable beast (<i>Oreamnus</i>) they called "Aspai",
+ and wove from its white wool an excellent cloth for their clothing.
+</p>
+<a name="note-12-3"><!--Note--></a>
+<p class="foot">
+<a href="#12-3"><u>3</u></a> Prince Edward's Island is off the north coast of New
+ Brunswick. It was named after Queen Victoria's father, the Duke of
+ Kent.
+</p>
+<br>
+<p class="return">[<a href="#top">TOP</a>]
+</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13003 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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