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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, What I Saw in California, by Edwin Bryant
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
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+
+
+
+
+Title: What I Saw in California
+
+Author: Edwin Bryant
+
+Release Date: July 23, 2004  [eBook #13002]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team
+
+
+
+WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA
+
+A Description of Its Soil, Climate, Productions, and Gold Mines;
+with the Best Routes and Latest Information for Intending Emigrants.
+
+By
+
+EDWIN BRYANT
+
+Late Alcade of San Francisco.
+
+To which is annexed, an Appendix
+
+Containing official documents and letters authenticating the accounts
+of the quantities of gold found, with its actual value ascertained by
+chemical assay.
+
+Also late communications containing accounts of the highest interest
+and importance from the gold districts.
+
+With a Map.
+
+1849
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+"All which I saw, and part of which I was."
+    --_Dryden_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+  Geographical sketch of California
+  Its political and social institutions
+  Colorado River
+  Valley and river of San Joaquin
+  Former government
+  Presidios
+  Missions
+  Ports and commerce.
+
+
+For the general information of the reader, it will be proper to give a
+brief geographical sketch of California, and some account of its
+political and social institutions, as they have heretofore existed.
+
+The district of country known geographically as Upper California is
+bounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of north
+latitude being the boundary line between the two territories; on the
+east by the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, a
+continuation of the same range; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower
+California, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent from north
+to south is about 700 miles, and from east to west from 600 to 800
+miles, with an area of about 400,000 square miles. A small portion only
+of this extensive territory is fertile or inhabitable by civilized man,
+and this portion consists chiefly in the strip of country along the
+Pacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and from 100 to 150 in
+breadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west by
+the Pacific. In speaking of Upper California this strip of country is
+what is generally referred to.
+
+The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which has
+a course of about 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of California
+in latitude about 32 degrees north. But little is known of the region
+through which this stream flows. The report of trappers, however, is
+that the river is _canoned_ between high mountains and precipices a
+large portion of its course, and that its banks and the country
+generally through which it flows are arid, sandy, and barren. Green and
+Grand Rivers are its principal upper tributaries, both of which rise in
+the Rocky Mountains, and within the territories of the United States.
+The Gila is its lowest and largest branch, emptying into the Colorado,
+just above its mouth. Sevier and Virgin Rivers are also tributaries of
+the Colorado. Mary's River rises near latitude 42 degrees north, and
+has a course of about 400 miles, when its waters sink in the sands of
+the desert. This river is not laid down on any map which I have seen.
+The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers have each a course of from 300 to
+400 miles, the first flowing from the north and the last from the
+south, and both emptying into the Bay of St. Francisco at the same
+point. They water the large and fertile valley lying between the Sierra
+Nevada and the coast range of mountains. I subjoin a description of the
+valley and river San Joaquin, from the pen of a gentleman (Dr. Marsh)
+who has explored the river from its source to its mouth.
+
+"This noble valley is the first undoubtedly in California, and one of
+the most magnificent in the world. It is about 500 miles long, with
+an-average width of about fifty miles. It is bounded on the east by the
+great Snowy Mountains, and on the west by the low range, which in many
+places dwindles into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminus
+at the Strait of Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and its
+southern near the Colorado River.
+
+"The river of San Joaquin flows through the middle of the valley for
+about half of its extent, and thence diverges towards the eastern
+mountain, in which it has its source. About sixty miles further south
+is the northern end of the Buena Vista Lake, which is about one hundred
+miles long, and from ten to twenty wide. Still farther south, and near
+the western side of the valley, is another and much smaller lake.
+
+"The great lake receives about a dozen tributaries on its eastern side,
+which all rise in the great range of the Snowy Mountains. Some of these
+streams flow through broad and fertile valleys within the mountain's
+range, and, from thence emerging, irrigate the plains of the great
+valley for the distance of twenty or thirty miles. The largest of these
+rivers is called by the Spanish inhabitants the river Reyes, and falls
+into the lake near its northern end; it is a well-timbered stream, and
+flows through a country of great fertility and beauty. The tributaries
+of the San Joaquin are all on the east side.
+
+"On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clear
+rapid mountain stream, some forty or fifty yards wide, with a
+considerable depth of water in its lower portion. The Mormons have
+commenced a settlement, called New Hope, and built some two or three
+houses near the mouth.
+
+"There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, and the
+higher plains afford good pasturage.
+
+"Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes; it is about the
+size of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that the
+soil is somewhat better, and that it particularly abounds with salmon.
+
+"Some thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of the
+tributaries of the San Joaquin. The lands along and between the
+tributaries of the San Joaquin and the lake of Buena Vista form a fine
+pastoral region, with a good proportion of arable land, and a very
+inviting field for emigration. The whole of this region has been but
+imperfectly explored; enough, however, is known to make it certain that
+it is one of the most desirable regions on the continent.
+
+"In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the great Snowy
+Mountains are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, or cedar timber, and
+the streams afford water power to any desirable amount.
+
+"The whole country east of the San Joaquin, and the water communication
+which connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, to
+be particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must
+necessarily become one of the principal agricultural resources of
+California."
+
+The Salinas River empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles above
+Monterey. Bear River empties into the Great Salt Lake. The other
+streams of California are all small. In addition to the Great Salt Lake
+and the Utah Lake there are numerous small lakes in the Sierra Nevada.
+The San Joaquin is connected with Tule Lake, or Lake Buena Vista, a
+sheet of water about eighty miles in length and fifteen in breadth. A
+lake, not laid down in any map, and known as the _Laguna_ among the
+Californians, is situated about sixty miles north of the Bay of San
+Francisco. It is between forty and sixty miles in length. The valleys
+in its vicinity are highly fertile, and romantically beautiful. In the
+vicinity of this lake there is a mountain of pure sulphur. There are
+also soda springs, and a great variety of other mineral waters, and
+minerals.
+
+The principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of California (the
+Rocky Mountains) are the Bear River, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada,
+and the Coast range. The Wahsatch Mountains form the eastern rim of the
+"great interior basin." There are numerous ranges in this desert basin,
+all of which run north and south, and are separated from each other by
+spacious and barren valleys and plains. The Sierra Nevada range is of
+greater elevation than the Rocky Mountains. The summits of the most
+elevated peaks are covered with perpetual snow. This and the coast
+range run nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific. The first is
+from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific, and the last from forty to
+sixty miles. The valley between them is the most fertile portion of
+California.
+
+Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish
+navigator. In 1578, the northern portion of it was visited by Sir
+Francis Drake, who called it New Albion. It was first colonized by the
+Spaniards, in 1768, and formed a province of Mexico until after the
+revolution in that country. There have been numerous revolutions and
+civil wars in California within the last twenty years; but up to the
+conquest of the country by the United States in 1846, Mexican authority
+has generally been exercised over it.
+
+The following description of the political and social condition of
+Upper California in 1822 is extracted and translated from a Spanish
+writer of that date. I have thought that the extract would not be
+uninteresting:--
+
+"_Government_.--Upper California, on account of its small population,
+not being able to become a state of the great Mexican republic, takes
+the character of territory, the government of which is under the charge
+of a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superior
+political chief, whose attributes depend entirely upon the president of
+the republic and the general congress. But, to amplify the legislation
+of its centre, it has a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half of
+these individuals being removed every two years. The superior political
+chief presides at their sessions. The inhabitants of the territory are
+divided amongst the presidios, missions, and towns.
+
+"_Presidios_.--The necessity of protecting the apostolic predication
+was the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which were
+established according to circumstances. That of San Diego was the
+first; Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco were built
+afterwards. The form of all of them is nearly the same, and this is a
+square, containing about two hundred yards in each front, formed of a
+weak wall made of mud-bricks. Its height may be four yards in the
+interior of the square, and built on to the same wall. In its entire
+circumference are a chapel, storehouses, and houses for the commandant,
+officers, and troops, having at the entrance of the presidio quarters
+for a _corps-de-garde_.
+
+"These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to have
+been sufficient, the only object having been for a defence against a
+surprise from the gentiles, or wild Indians in the immediate vicinity.
+But this cause having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, as
+they are daily threatening a complete ruin, and, from the very limited
+spaces of habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabit
+them. As to the exterior of the presidios, several private individuals
+have built some very decent houses, and, having evinced great emulation
+in this branch of business, I have no doubt but in a short time we
+shall see very considerable towns in California.
+
+"At the distance of one, or at the most two miles from the presidio,
+and near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces of
+artillery of small calibre. The situation of most of them is very
+advantageous for the defence of the port, though the form of the walls,
+esplanades, and other imperfections which may be seen, make them very
+insignificant.
+
+"The battalion of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horse
+soldiers, called _cuera_; besides these, it has a number of auxiliary
+troops and a detachment of artillery. The commandant of each presidio
+is the captain of its respective company, and besides the intervention,
+military and political, he has charge of all things relating to the
+marine department.
+
+"_Missions_.--The missions contained in the territory are twenty-one.
+They were built at different epochs: that of San Diego, being the
+first, was built in 1769; its distance from the presidio of the same
+name is two leagues. The rest were built successively, according to
+circumstances and necessity. The last one was founded in the year 1822,
+under the name of San Francisco Dolores, and is the most northern of
+all.
+
+"The edifices in some of those missions are more extensive than in
+others, but in form they are all nearly equal. They are all fabricated
+of mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity. In all of
+them may be found commodious habitations for the ministers, storehouses
+to keep their goods in, proportional granaries, offices for
+soap-makers, weavers, blacksmiths, and large parterres, and horse and
+cattle pens, independent apartments for Indian youths of each sex, and
+all such offices as were necessary at the time of its institution.
+Contiguous to and communicating with the former is a church, forming a
+part of the edifices of each mission; they are all very proportionable,
+and are adorned with profusion.
+
+"The Indians reside about two hundred yards distant from the
+above-mentioned edifice. This place is called the rancheria. Most of
+the missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built with
+mud-bricks, forming streets, while in others the Indians have been
+allowed to follow their primitive customs; their dwellings being a sort
+of huts, in a conical shape, which at the most do not exceed four yards
+in diameter, and the top of the cone may be elevated three yards. They
+are built of rough sticks, covered with bulrushes or grass, in such a
+manner as to completely protect the inhabitants from all the
+inclemencies of the weather. In my opinion, these rancherias are the
+most adequate to the natural uncleanliness of the Indians, as the
+families often renew them, burning the old ones, and immediately
+building others with the greatest facility. Opposite the rancherias,
+and near to the mission, is to be found a small garrison, with
+proportionate rooms, for a corporal and five soldiers with their
+families. This small garrison is quite sufficient to prevent any
+attempt of the Indians from taking effect, there having been some
+examples made, which causes the Indians to respect this small force.
+One of these pickets in a mission has a double object; besides keeping
+the Indians in subjection, they run post with a monthly correspondence,
+or with any extraordinaries that may be necessary for government.
+
+"All the missions in this California are under the charge of religious
+men of the order of San Francisco. At the present time their number is
+twenty-seven, most of them of an advanced age. Each mission has one of
+these fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority.
+The tilling of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, the
+slaughtering of cattle, the weaving, and everything that concerns the
+mission, is under the direction of the fathers, without any other
+person interfering in any way whatever, so that, if any one mission has
+the good fortune to be superintended by an industrious and discreet
+padre, the Indians disfrute in abundance all the real necessaries of
+life; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any one mission are
+a palpable proof of the inactivity of its director. The missions extend
+their possessions from one extremity of the territory to the other, and
+have made the limits of one mission from those of another. Though they
+do not require all this land for their agriculture and the maintenance
+of their stock, they have appropriated the whole; always strongly
+opposing any individual who may wish to settle himself or his family on
+any piece of land between them. But it is to be hoped that the new
+system of illustration, and the necessity of augmenting private
+properly, and the people of reason, will cause the government to take
+such adequate measures as will conciliate the interests of all. Amongst
+all the missions there are from twenty-one to twenty-two thousand
+Catholic Indians; but each mission has not an equal or a proportionate
+part in its congregation. Some have three or four thousand, whilst
+others have scarcely four hundred; and at this difference may be
+computed the riches of the missions in proportion. Besides the number
+of Indians already spoken of, each mission has a considerable number of
+gentiles, who live chiefly on farms annexed to the missions. The number
+of these is undetermined.
+
+"The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their understanding
+is very limited. In the small arts they are not deficient in ideas of
+imitation but they never will be inventors. Their true character is
+that of being revengeful and timid, consequently they are very much
+addicted to treachery. They have no knowledge of benefits received, and
+ingratitude is common amongst them. The education they receive in their
+infancy is not the proper one to develope their reason, and, if it
+were, I do not believe them capable of any good impression. All these
+Indians, whether from the continual use of the sweat-house, or from
+their filthiness, or the little ventilation in their habitations, are
+weak and unvigorous; spasms and rheumatics, to which they are so much
+subject, are the consequences of their customs. But what most injures
+them, and prevents propagation, is the venereal disease, which most of
+them have very strongly, clearly proving that their humours are
+analogous to receiving the impressions of this contagion. From this
+reason may be deduced the enormous differences between the births and
+deaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favour of the
+latter; but the missionaries do all in their power to prevent this,
+with respect to the catechumens situated near them.
+
+"The general productions of the missions are, the breed of the larger
+class of cattle, and sheep, horses, wheat, maize or Indian corn, beans,
+peas, and other vegetables; though the productions of the missions
+situated more to the southward are more extensive, these producing the
+grape and olive in abundance. Of all these articles of production, the
+most lucrative is the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an
+active commerce with foreign vessels on this coast. This being the only
+means the inhabitants, missionaries, or private individuals have of
+supplying their actual necessities, for this reason they give this
+branch all the impulse they possibly can, and on it generally place all
+their attention.
+
+"It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow for
+commerce. Formerly they merely took care of as many or as much as they
+required for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away as
+useless; but at this time the actual number of hides sold annually on
+board of foreign vessels amounts to thirty or forty thousand, and about
+the same amount of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow; and, in
+pursuing their present method, there is no doubt but in three or four
+years the amount of the exportation of each of these articles will be
+doubled. Flax, linen, wine, olive-oil, grain, and other agricultural
+productions, would be very extensive if there were stimulants to excite
+industry; but, this not being the case, there is just grain enough sown
+and reaped for the consumption of the inhabitants in the territory.
+
+"The towns contained in this district are three; the most populous
+being that of Angeles, which has about twelve hundred souls; that of
+St. Joseph's of Guadaloupe may contain six hundred, and the village of
+Branciforte two hundred; they are all formed imperfectly and without
+order, each person having built his own house on the spot he thought
+most convenient for himself. The first of these pueblos is governed by
+its corresponding body of magistrates, composed of an alcalde or judge,
+four regidores or municipal officers, a syndic, and secretary; the
+second, of an alcalde, two regidores, a syndic, and secretary; and the
+third, on account of the smallness of its population, is subject to the
+commandancia of Monterey.
+
+"The inhabitants of the towns are white, and, to distinguish them from
+the Indians, are vulgarly called _people of reason_. The number of
+these contained in the territory may be nearly five thousand. These
+families are divided amongst the pueblos and presidios. They are nearly
+all the descendants of a small number of individuals who came from the
+Mexican country, some as settlers, others in the service of the army,
+and accompanied by their wives. In the limited space of little more
+than fifty years the present generation has been formed.
+
+"The whites are in general robust, healthy, and well made. Some of them
+are occupied in breeding and raising cattle, and cultivating small
+quantities of wheat and beans; but for want of sufficient land, for
+which they cannot obtain a rightful ownership, their labours are very
+limited. Others dedicate themselves to the service of arms. All the
+presidial companies are composed of the natives of the country, but the
+most of them are entirely indolent, it being very rare for any
+individual to strive to augment his fortune. Dancing, horse-riding, and
+gambling occupy all their time. The arts are entirely unknown, and I am
+doubtful if there is one individual who exercises any trade; very few
+who understand the first rudiments of letters, and the other sciences
+are unknown amongst them.
+
+"The fecundity of the _people of reason_ is extreme. It is very rare to
+find a married couple with less than five or six children, while there
+are hundreds who have from twelve to fifteen. Very few of them die in
+their youth, and in reaching the age of puberty are sure to see their
+grand-children. The age of eighty and one hundred has always been
+common in this climate; most infirmities are unknown here, and the
+freshness and robustness of the people show the beneficial influence of
+the climate; the women in particular have always the roses stamped on
+their cheeks. This beautiful species is without doubt the most active
+and laborious, all their vigilance in duties of the house, the
+cleanliness of their children, and attention to their husbands,
+dedicating all their leisure moments to some kind of occupation that
+may be useful towards their maintenance. Their clothing is always clean
+and decent, nakedness being entirely unknown in either sex.
+
+"_Ports and Commerce_.--There are four ports, principal bays, in this
+territory, which take the names of the corresponding presidios. The
+best guarded is that of San Diego. That of San Francisco has many
+advantages. Santa Barbara is but middling in the best part of the
+season; at other times always bad. Besides the above-mentioned places,
+vessels sometimes anchor at Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo, El Refugio,
+San Pedro, and San Juan, that they may obtain the productions of the
+missions nearest these last-mentioned places; but from an order sent by
+the minister of war, and circulated by the commandante-general, we are
+given to understand that no foreign vessel is permitted to anchor at
+any of these places, Monterey only excepted, notwithstanding the
+commandante-general has allowed the first three principal ports to
+remain open provisionally. Were it not so, there would undoubtedly be
+an end to all commerce with California, as I will quickly show.
+
+"The only motive that induces foreign vessels to visit this coast is
+for the hides and tallow which they barter for in the territory. It is
+well known, that at any of these parts there is no possibility of
+realizing any money, for here it does not circulate. The goods imported
+by foreign vessels are intended to facilitate the purchase of the
+aforesaid articles, well knowing that the missions have no interest in
+money, but rather such goods as are necessary for the Indians, so that
+several persons who have brought goods to sell for nothing but money
+have not been able to sell them. It will appear very extraordinary that
+money should not be appreciated in a country where its value is so well
+known; but the reason may be easily perceived by attending to the
+circumstances of the territory.
+
+"The quantity of hides gathered yearly is about thirty or forty
+thousand; and the arrobas of tallow, with very little difference, will
+be about the same. Averaging the price of each article at two dollars,
+we shall see that the intrinsic value in annual circulation in
+California is 140,000 dollars. This sum, divided between twenty-one
+missions, will give each one 6666 dollars. Supposing the only
+production of the country converted into money, with what would the
+Indians be clothed, and by what means would they be able to cover a
+thousand other necessaries? Money is useful in amplifying speculations;
+but in California, as yet, there are no speculations, and it
+productions are barely sufficient for the absolute necessary
+consumption. The same comparison may be made with respect to private
+individuals, who are able to gather a few hides and a few arrobas of
+tallow, these being in small quantities."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+  Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco
+  Coscumne River
+  Mickelemes River
+  Ford of the San Joaquin
+  Extensive plain
+  Tule marshes
+  Large droves of wild horses and elk
+  Arrive at Dr. Marsh's
+  Vineyard
+  Californian grape
+  Californian wine
+  Aguardiente
+  Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin
+  Californian beef
+  Cattle
+  Grasses of California
+  Horses
+  Breakfast
+  Leave Dr. Marsh's
+  Arrive at Mr. Livermore's
+  Comforts of his dwelling
+  Large herds of cattle
+  Sheep
+  Swine
+  Californian senora
+  Slaughtering of a bullock
+  Fossil oyster-shells
+  Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain
+  Arrive at mission of San Jose
+  Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission
+  Pedlars
+  Landlady
+  Filth
+  Gardens of the mission
+  Fruit orchards
+  Empty warehouses and workshops
+  Foul lodgings.
+
+
+_September 13th_.--We commenced to-day our journey from New Helvetia to
+San Francisco. Our party consisted, including myself, of Colonel
+Russell, Dr. McKee of Monterey, Mr. Pickett, a traveller in the
+country, recently from Oregon, and an Indian servant, who had been
+furnished us by Captain Sutter. Starting about 3 o'clock P.M., we
+travelled in a south course over a flat plain until sunset, and
+encamped near a small lake on the rancho of Mr. Murphy, near the
+Coscumne River, a tributary of the Sacramento, which heads near the
+foot of the Sierra Nevada. The stream is small, but the bottom-lands
+are extensive and rich. Mr. Murphy has been settled in California about
+two years, and, with his wife and several children, has resided at this
+place sixteen months, during which time he has erected a comfortable
+dwelling-house, and other necessary buildings and conveniences. His
+wheat crop was abundant this year; and he presented us with as much
+milk and fresh butter as we desired. The grass on the upland plain over
+which we have travelled is brown and crisp from the annual drought. In
+the low bottom it is still green. Distance 18 miles.
+
+_September 14_.--We crossed the Coscumne River about a mile from our
+camp, and travelled over a level plain covered with luxuriant grass,
+and timbered with the evergreen oak, until three o'clock, when we
+crossed the Mickelemes River, another tributary of the Sacramento, and
+encamped on its southern bank in a beautiful grove of live oaks. The
+Mickelemes, where we crossed it, is considerably larger than the
+Coscumnes. The soil of the bottom appears to be very rich, and produces
+the finest qualities of grasses. The grass on the upland is also
+abundant, but at this time it is brown and dead. We passed through
+large tracts of wild oats during the day; the stalks are generally from
+three to five feet in length.
+
+Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and we
+discharged him. As soon as he obtained his discharge, he was entirely
+relieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected to
+be suffering for several hours. Eating his breakfast, and mounting his
+horse, he galloped off in the direction of the fort. We overtook this
+afternoon an English sailor, named Jack, who was travelling towards
+Monterey; and we employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder of
+the journey.
+
+A variety of autumnal flowers, generally of a brilliant yellow, are in
+bloom along the beautiful and romantic bunks of the rivulet. Distance
+25 miles.
+
+_September 15_.--Our horses were frightened last night by bears, and
+this morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, had
+strayed so far that we did not recover them until ten o'clock. Our
+route has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriant
+grass, wild oats, and a variety of sparkling flowers. The soil is
+composed of a rich argillaceous loam. Large tracts of the land are
+evidently subject to annual inundations. About noon we reached a small
+lake surrounded by _tule_. There being no trail for our guidance, we
+experienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike the
+San Joaquin River at the usual fording place. Our man Jack, by some
+neglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelled
+to proceed without him. This afternoon we saw several large droves of
+antelope and deer. Game of all kinds appears to be very abundant in
+this rich valley. Passing through large tracts of _tule_, we reached
+the San Joaquin River at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank. Here
+we immediately made large fires, and discharged pistols as signals to
+our man Jack, but he did not come into camp. Distance 35 miles.
+
+_September 16_.--Jack came into camp while we were breakfasting,
+leading his tired horse. He had bivouacked on the plain, and, fearful
+that his horse would break loose if he tied him, he held the animal by
+the bridle all night.
+
+The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from its
+mouth. At this season the water is at its lowest stage. The stream at
+the ford is probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animals
+crossed it without much difficulty, the water reaching about midway of
+their bodies. Oak and small willows are the principal growth of wood
+skirting the river. Soon after we crossed the San Joaquin this morning
+we met two men, couriers, bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton,
+the governor and commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter's Fort.
+Entering upon the broad plain, we passed, in about three miles, a small
+lake, the water of which was so much impregnated with alkali as to be
+undrinkable. The grass is brown and crisp, but the seed upon it is
+evidence that it had fully matured before the drought affected it. The
+plain is furrowed with numerous deep trails, made by the droves of wild
+horses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and graze upon it. The
+hunting sportsman can here enjoy his favourite pleasure to its fullest
+extent.
+
+Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in order to visit
+the rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. McKee and Pickett about
+noon. We passed during the afternoon several _tule_ marshes, with which
+the plain of the San Joaquin is dotted. At a distance, the tule of
+these marshes presents the appearance of immense fields of ripened
+corn. The marshes are now nearly dry, and to shorten our journey we
+crossed several of them without difficulty. A month earlier, this would
+not have been practicable. I have but little doubt that these marshes
+would make fine rice plantations, and perhaps, if properly drained,
+they might produce the sugar-cane.
+
+While pursuing our journey we frequently saw large droves of wild
+horses and elk grazing quietly upon the plain. No spectacle of moving
+life can present a more animated and beautiful appearance than a herd
+of wild horses. They were divided into droves of some one or two
+hundred. When they noticed us, attracted by curiosity to discover what
+we were, they would start and run almost with the fleetness of the wind
+in the direction towards us. But, arriving within a distance of two
+hundred yards, they would suddenly halt, and after bowing their necks
+into graceful curves, and looking steadily at us a few moments, with
+loud snortings they would wheel about and bound away with the same
+lightning speed. These evolutions they would repeat several times,
+until, having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a final
+adieu, and disappear behind the undulations of the plain.
+
+The herds of elk were much more numerous. Some of them numbered at
+least two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, when
+running, a very singular and picturesque appearance. We approached some
+of these herds within fifty yards before they took the alarm. Beef in
+California is so abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is but
+little hunted, and not much prized, hence the elk, deer, and even
+antelope are comparatively very tame, and rarely run from the
+traveller, unless he rides very near them. Some of these elk are as
+large as a medium-sized Mexican mule.
+
+We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o'clock P.M., greatly
+fatigued with the day's ride. The residence of Dr. M. is romantically
+situated, near the foot of one of the most elevated mountains in the
+range separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plain
+surrounding the Bay of San Francisco. It is called "Mount Diablo," and
+may be seen in clear weather a great distance. The dwelling of Dr. M.
+is a small one-story house, rudely constructed of adobes, and divided
+into two or three apartments. The flooring is of earth, like the walls.
+A table or two, and some benches and a bed, are all the furniture it
+contains. Such are the privations to which those who settle in new
+countries must submit. Dr. M. is a native of New England, a graduate of
+Harvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural abilities and
+extensive scientific and literary acquirements. He emigrated to
+California some seven or eight years since, after having travelled
+through most of the Mexican States. He speaks the Spanish language
+fluently and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexican
+institutions, laws, and customs was fully displayed in his conversation
+in regard to them. He obtained the grant of land upon which he now
+resides, some ten or twelve miles square, four or fire years ago; and
+although he has been constantly harassed by the wild Indians, who have
+several times stolen all his horses, and sometimes numbers of his
+cattle, he has succeeded in permanently establishing himself. The
+present number of cattle on his rancho is about two thousand, and the
+increase of the present year he estimates at five hundred.
+
+I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety of
+vegetables. In another inclosure was the commencement of an extensive
+vineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavour
+any grapes which I have ever tasted. This grape is not indigenous, but
+was introduced by _the padres_, when they first established themselves
+in the country. The soil and climate of California have probably
+improved it. Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length,
+and weigh several pounds. The fruit is of medium size, and in colour a
+dark purple. The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolves
+in the mouth immediately. Although Dr. M. has just commenced his
+vineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now in
+a stale of fermentation. I tasted here, for the first time,
+_aguardiente_, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape. Its
+flavour is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render it
+equal to the brandies of France. Large quantities of wine and
+_aguardiente_ are made from the extensive vineyards farther south. Dr.
+M. informed me that his lands had produced a hundredfold of wheat
+without irrigation. This yield seems almost incredible; but, if we can
+believe the statements of men of unimpeached veracity, there have been
+numerous instances of reproduction of wheat in California equalling and
+even exceeding this.
+
+Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York,
+which had been chartered and freighted principally by a party of Mormon
+emigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and children
+included. These Mormons are about making a settlement for agricultural
+purposes on the San Joaquin River, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh. Two
+of the women and one of the men are now here, waiting for the return of
+the main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select a
+suitable site for the settlement. The women are young, neatly dressed,
+and one of them may be called good-looking. Captain Gant, formerly of
+the U.S. Army, in very bad health, is also residing here. He has
+crossed the Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trapping
+excursions, has explored nearly every river between the settlements of
+the United States and the Pacific Ocean.
+
+The house of Dr. Marsh being fully occupied, we made our beds in a
+shed, a short distance from it. Suspended from one of the poles forming
+the frame of this shed was a portion of the carcass of a recently
+slaughtered beef. The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of it
+presenting that marbled appearance, produced by a mixture of the fat
+and lean, so agreeable to the sight and palate of the epicure. The
+horned cattle of California, which I have thus far seen, are the
+largest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw. There is
+certainly no breed in the United States equalling them in size. They,
+as well as the horses, subsist entirely on the indigenous grasses, at
+all seasons of the year; and such are the nutritious qualities of the
+herbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, and
+the latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (which
+is often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied the
+privilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding. The varieties
+of grass are very numerous, and nearly all of them are heavily seeded
+when ripe, and are equal, if not superior, as food for animals, to corn
+and oats. The horses are not as large as the breeds of the United
+States, but in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity for
+endurance they are fully equal to our best breeds. The distance we have
+travelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles.
+
+_September 17_.--The temperature of the mornings is most agreeable, and
+every other phenomenon accompanying it is correspondingly delightful to
+the senses. Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of unbolted
+flour, stewed beef, seasoned with _chile colorado_, a species of red
+pepper, and _frijoles_, a dark-coloured bean, with coffee. After
+breakfast I walked with Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill,
+about a mile distant from his house, from which the view of the plain
+on the north, south, and east, and the more broken and mountainous
+country on the west, is very extensive and picturesque. The hills and
+the plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak, sometimes in clumps or
+groves, at others standing solitary. On the summits, and in the gorges
+of the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir display their tall
+symmetrical shapes; and the San Joaquin, at a distance of about ten
+miles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timber
+and shrubbery. The herds of cattle are scattered over the plain,--some
+of them grazing upon the brown but nutritious grass; others sheltering
+themselves from the sun under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks.
+The _tout ensemble_ of the landscape is charming.
+
+Leaving Dr. Marsh's about three o'clock P.M., we travelled fifteen
+miles, over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally with
+wild oats, and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore just
+before dark. We were most kindly and hospitably received, and
+entertained by Mr. L. and his interesting family. After our mules and
+baggage had been cared for, we were introduced to the principal room in
+the house, which consisted of a number of small adobe buildings,
+erected apparently at different times, and connected together. Here we
+found chairs, and, for the first time in California, saw a side-board
+set out with glass tumblers and chinaware. A decanter of _aguardiente_,
+a bowl of loaf sugar, and a pitcher of cold water from the spring, were
+set before us, and, being duly honoured, had a most reviving influence
+upon our spirits as well as our corporeal energies. Suspended from the
+walls of the room were numerous coarse engravings, highly coloured with
+green, blue, and crimson paints, representing the Virgin Mary, and many
+of the saints. These engravings are held in great veneration by the
+devout Catholics of this country. In the corners of the room were two
+comfortable-looking beds, with clean white sheets and pillow-cases, a
+sight with which my eyes have not been greeted for many months.
+
+The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowy
+whiteness, upon which were placed dishes of stewed beef, seasoned with
+_chile Colorado, frijoles_, and a plentiful supply of _tortillas_, with
+an excellent cup of tea, to the merits of which we did ample justice.
+Never were men blessed with better appetites than we are at the present
+time.
+
+Mr. Livermore has been a resident of California nearly thirty years,
+and, having married into one of the wealthy families of the country, is
+the proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing. An
+_arroyo_, or small rivulet fed by springs, runs through his rancho, in
+such a course that, if expedient, he could, without much expense,
+irrigate one or two thousand acres. Irrigation in this part of
+California, however, seems to be entirely unnecessary for the
+production of wheat or any of the small grains. To produce maize,
+potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is indispensable. Mr.
+Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle. His horses,
+during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or stolen
+by the Indians. I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering several
+hundred. They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of an
+excellent quality, but the wool is coarse. It is, however, well adapted
+to the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in the
+country,--coarse blankets and _serapes_. But little attention is paid
+to hogs here, although the breeds are as fine as I have ever seen
+elsewhere. Beef being so abundant, and of a quality so superior, pork
+is not prized by the native Californians.
+
+The Senora L. is the first Hispano-American lady I have seen since
+arriving in the country. She was dressed in a white cambric robe,
+loosely banded round the waist, and without ornament of any kind,
+except several rings on her small delicate fingers. Her complexion is
+that of a dark brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin of
+most Californian women. The dark lustrous eye, the long black and
+glossy hair, the natural ease, grace, and vivacity of manners and
+conversation, characteristic of Spanish ladies, were fully displayed by
+her from the moment of our introduction. The children, especially two
+or three little _senoritas_, were very beautiful, and manifested a
+remarkable degree of sprightliness and intelligence. One of them
+presented me with a small basket wrought from a species of tough grass,
+and ornamented with the plumage of birds of a variety of brilliant
+colours. It was a beautiful specimen of Indian ingenuity.
+
+Retiring to bed about ten o'clock, I enjoyed, the first time for four
+months, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow.
+My enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with regret, for I noticed that
+several members of the family, to accommodate us with lodgings in the
+house, slept in the piazza outside. To have objected to sleeping in the
+house, however, would have been considered discourteous and offensive.
+
+_September 18_.--Early this morning a bullock was brought up and
+slaughtered in front of the house. The process of slaughtering a beef
+is as follows: a _vaquero_, mounted on a trained horse, and provided
+with a lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing.
+Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the
+lasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of
+the saddle. During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which
+usually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and
+keeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of the
+beast are wasted without producing any other result than his own
+exhaustion. The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot release
+himself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place of
+execution. Arriving here, the vaquero winds the lasso round the legs of
+the doomed beast, and throws him to the ground, where he lies perfectly
+helpless and motionless. Dismounting from his horse, he then takes from
+his leggin the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, and
+sticks the animal in the throat. He soon bleeds to death, when, in an
+incredibly short space of time for such a performance, the carcass is
+flayed and quartered, and the meat is either roasting before the fire
+or simmering in the stew-pan. The _lassoing_ and slaughter of a bullock
+is one of the most exciting sports of the Californians; and the daring
+horsemanship and dexterous use of the lariat usually displayed on these
+occasions are worthy of admiration. I could not but notice the
+Golgotha-like aspect of the grounds surrounding the house. The bones of
+cattle were thickly strewn in all directions, showing a terrible
+slaughter of the four-footed tribe and a prodigious consumption of
+flesh.
+
+A _carretada_ of fossil oyster--shells was shown to me by Mr.
+Livermore, which had been hauled for the purpose of being manufactured
+into lime. Some of these shells were eight inches in length, and of
+corresponding breadth and thickness. They were dug from a hill two or
+three miles distant, which is composed almost entirely of this fossil.
+Several bones belonging to the skeleton of a whale, discovered by Mr.
+L. on the summit of one of the highest elevations in the vicinity of
+his residence, were shown to me. The skeleton when discovered was
+nearly perfect and entirely exposed, and its elevation above the level
+of the sea between one and two thousand feet. How the huge aquatic
+monster, of which this skeleton is the remains, managed to make his dry
+bed on the summit of an elevated mountain, more experienced geologists
+than myself will hereafter determine. I have an opinion on the subject,
+however; but it is so contrary in some respects to the received
+geological theories, that I will not now hazard it.
+
+Leaving Mr. Livermore's about nine o'clock A.M., we travelled three or
+four miles over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle were
+grazing. When we approached, they fled from us with as much alarm as
+herds of deer and elk. From this plain we entered a hilly country,
+covered to the summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts or
+hunches of a species of grass, which remains green through the whole
+season. Cattle were scattered through these hills, and more sumptuous
+grazing they could not desire. Small streams of water, fed by springs,
+flow through the hollows and ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides,
+are timbered with the evergreen oak and a variety of smaller trees.
+About two o'clock, P.M., we crossed an _arroyo_ which runs through a
+narrow gorge of the hills, and struck an artificial wagon-road,
+excavated and embanked so as to afford a passage for wheeled vehicles
+along the steep hill-side. A little farther on we crossed a very rudely
+constructed bridge. These are the first signs of road-making I have
+seen in the country. Emerging from the hills, the southern arm of the
+Bay of San Francisco came in view, separated from us by a broad and
+fertile plain, some ten or twelve miles in width, sloping gradually
+down to the shore of the bay, and watered by several small creeks and
+estuaries.
+
+We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San Jose, or St.
+Joseph. Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings once inhabited
+by thousands of busy Indians, but now deserted, roofless, and crumbling
+into ruins, we reached the plaza in front of the church, and the
+massive two-story edifices occupied by the _padres_ during the
+flourishing epoch of the establishment. These were in good repair; but
+the doors and windows, with the exception of one, were closed, and
+nothing of moving life was visible except a donkey or two, standing
+near a fountain which gushed its waters into a capacious stone trough.
+Dismounting from our mules, we entered the open door, and here we found
+two Frenchmen dressed in sailor costume, with a quantity of coarse
+shirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other small articles, together with
+_aguardiente_, which they designed retailing to such of the natives in
+the vicinity as chose to become their customers. They were itinerant
+merchants, or pedlars, and had opened their wares here for a day or two
+only, or so long as they could find purchasers.
+
+Having determined to remain here the residue of the day and the night,
+we inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place that
+could furnish us with food. They directed us to a house on the opposite
+side of the plaza, to which we immediately repaired. The senora, a
+dark-skinned and rather shrivelled and filthy specimen of the fair sex,
+but with a black, sparkling, and intelligent eye, met us at the door of
+the miserable hovel, and invited us in. In one corner of this wretched
+and foul abode was a pile of raw hides, and in another a heap of wheat.
+The only furniture it contained were two small benches, or stools, one
+of which, being higher than the other, appeared to have been
+constructed for a table. We informed the senora that we were
+travellers, and wished refreshment and lodgings for the night. "_Esta
+bueno, senores, esta bueno_," was her reply; and she immediately left
+us, and, opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the preparation of
+our dinner. The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a good view
+through the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the room in
+which we were seated. In a short time, so industrious was our hostess,
+our dinner, consisting of two plates of jerked beef, stewed, and
+seasoned with _chile colorado_, a plate of _tortillas_, and a bowl of
+coffee, was set out upon the most elevated stool. There were no knives,
+forks, or spoons, on the table. Our amiable landlady apologized for
+this deficiency of table-furniture, saying that she was "_muy pobre_"
+(very poor), and possessed none of these table implements. "Fingers
+were made before forks," and in our recent travels we had learned to
+use them as substitutes, so that we found no difficulty in conveying
+the meat from the plates to our mouths.
+
+Belonging to the mission are two gardens, inclosed by high adobe walls.
+After dinner we visited one of these. The area of the inclosure
+contains fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which was
+planted with fruit trees and grape-vines. There are about six hundred
+pear trees, and a large number of apple and peach trees, all bearing
+fruit in great abundance and in full perfection. The quality of the
+pears is excellent, but the apples and peaches are indifferent. The
+grapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I saw none upon the vines,
+which appeared healthy and vigorous. The gardens are irrigated with
+very little trouble, from large springs which flow from the hills a
+short distance above them. Numerous aqueducts, formerly conveying and
+distributing water over an extensive tract of land surrounding the
+mission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, they
+at present contain no water.
+
+The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, and
+are all constructed of adobes with tile roofs. Those houses or barracks
+which were occupied by the Indian families are built in compact
+squares, one story in height. They are generally partitioned into two
+rooms, one fronting on the street, the other upon a court or corral in
+the rear. The main buildings of the mission are two stories in height,
+with wide corridors in front and rear. The walls are massive, and, if
+protected from the winter rains, will stand for ages. But if exposed to
+the storms by the decay of the projecting roofs, or by leaks in the
+main roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into shapeless heaps of mud.
+I passed through extensive warehouses and immense rooms, once occupied
+for the manufacture of woollen blankets and other articles, with the
+rude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed. Filth and
+desolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life. The
+granary was very capacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of the
+exuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under the
+superintendence of the _padres_. The calaboose is a miserable dark room
+of two apartments, one with a small loop-hole in the wall, the other a
+dungeon without light or ventilation. The stocks, and several other
+inventions for the punishment of offenders, are still standing in this
+prison. I requested permission to examine the interior of the church,
+but it was locked up, and no person in the mission was in possession of
+the key. Its length I should suppose is from one hundred to one hundred
+and twenty feet, and its breadth between thirty and forty, with small
+exterior pretensions to architectural ornament or symmetry of
+proportions.
+
+Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our
+landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced
+as "_mi madre_," and two or three Indian _muchachas_, or girls, clad in
+a costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latter
+were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth
+standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The
+two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of
+the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework.
+
+Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she
+had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the
+night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much
+offended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweep
+out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square,
+to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge
+during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made,
+we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells"
+which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night
+augured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode
+of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with
+the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough
+to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds
+in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18
+miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+  Armies of fleas
+  Leave the mission
+  Clover
+  Wild mustard
+  A carreta
+  Family travelling
+  Arrive at Pueblo de San Jose
+  Capt. Fisher
+  Description of the Pueblo
+  The embarcadero
+  Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo
+  Absence of architectural taste in California
+  Town squirrels
+  Fruit garden
+  Grapes
+  Tropical fruits
+  Gaming rooms
+  Contrast between California and American gamesters
+  Leave San Jose
+  Beautiful avenue
+  Mission of Santa Clara
+  Rich but neglected lands
+  Effects of a bad government
+  A senora on the road-side
+  Kindness of Californian women
+  Fast riding
+  Cruel treatment of horses
+  Arrive at the mission of San Francisco
+  A poor but hospitable family
+  Arrive at the town of San Francisco
+  W.A. Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul
+  First view of the bay of San Francisco
+  Muchachos and Muchachas
+  Capt. Montgomery
+  U.S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth
+  Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population
+  Commerce of California
+  Extortion of the government and traders.
+
+
+_September 19_.--Several Californians came into the mission during the
+night or early this morning; among them the husband of our hostess, who
+was very kind and cordial in his greetings.
+
+While our man Jack was saddling and packing the mules, they gathered
+around us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous of
+trading their horses for articles of clothing; articles which many of
+them appeared to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to part
+from. Their pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as I thought;
+but I was not in a good humour, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin,
+which infested our miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night,
+by goring my body until the blood oozed from the skin in countless
+places. These ruinous missions are prolific generators, and the
+nurseries of vermin of all kinds, as the hapless traveller who tarries
+in them a few hours will learn to his sorrow. When these bloodthirsty
+assailants once make a lodgment in the clothing or bedding of the
+unfortunate victim of their attacks, such are their courage and
+perseverance, that they never capitulate. "Blood or death" is their
+motto;--the war against them, to be successful, must be a war of
+extermination.
+
+Poor as our hostess was, she nevertheless was reluctant to receive any
+compensation for her hospitality. We, however, insisted upon her
+receiving a dollar from each of us (_dos pesos_), which she finally
+accepted; and after shaking us cordially by the hand she bade us an
+affectionate _adios_, and we proceeded on our journey.
+
+From the Mission of San Jose to the Pueblo of San Jose, the distance is
+fifteen miles, for the most part over a level and highly fertile plain,
+producing a variety of indigenous grasses, among which I noticed
+several species of clover and mustard, large tracts of which we rode
+through, the stalks varying from six to ten feet in height. The plain
+is watered by several _arroyos_, skirted with timber, generally the
+evergreen oak.
+
+We met this morning a Californian _carreta_, or travelling-cart,
+freighted with women and children, bound on a pleasure excursion. The
+_carreta_ is the rudest specimen of the wheeled vehicle I have seen.
+The wheels are transverse sections of a log, and are usually about
+2-1/2 feet in diameter, and varying in thickness from the centre to the
+rim. These wheels are coupled together by an axletree, into which a
+tongue is inserted. On the axletree and tongue rests a frame,
+constructed of square pieces of timber, six or eight feet in length,
+and four or five in breadth, into which are inserted a number of stakes
+about, four feet in length. This frame-work being covered and floored
+with raw hides, the carriage is complete. The _carreta_ which we met
+was drawn by two yokes of oxen, driven by an Indian vaquero, mounted on
+a horse. In the rear were two _caballeros_, riding fine spirited
+horses, with gaudy trappings. They were dressed in steeple-crowned
+glazed _sombreros, serapes_ of fiery colours, velvet (cotton)
+_calzoneros_, white cambric _calzoncillos_, and leggins and shoes of
+undressed leather. Their spurs were of immense size.
+
+The party halted as soon as we met them, the men touching their heavy
+_sombreros_, and uttering the usual salutation of the morning, "_Buenos
+dios, senores_," and shaking hands with us very cordially. The same
+salutation was repeated by all the senoras and senoritas in the
+_carreta_. In dress and personal appearance the women of this party
+were much inferior to the men. Their skins were dark, sallow, and
+shrivelled; and their costume, a loose gown and _reboso_, were made of
+very common materials. The children, however, were all handsome, with
+sparkling eyes and ruddy complexions. Women and children were seated,
+_a la Turque_, on the bottom of the _carreta_, there being no raised
+seats in the vehicle.
+
+We arrived at the Pueblo do San Jose about twelve o'clock. There being
+no hotels in California, we were much at a loss where to apply for
+refreshments and lodgings for the night. Soon, however, we were met by
+Captain Fisher, a native of Massachusetts, but a resident of this
+country for twenty years or more, who invited us to his house. We were
+most civilly received by Senora F., who, although she did not speak
+English, seemed to understand it very well. She is a native of the
+southern Pacific coast of Mexico, and a lady of fine manners and
+personal appearance. Her oldest daughter, about thirteen years of age,
+is very beautiful. An excellent dinner was soon set out, with a variety
+of the native wines of California and other liquors. We could not have
+felt ourselves more happy and more at home, even at our own firesides
+and in the midst of our own families.
+
+The Pueblo de San Jose is a village containing some six or eight
+hundred inhabitants. It is situated in what is called the "Pueblo
+Valley," about fifteen miles south of the southern shore of the Bay of
+San Francisco. Through a navigable creek, vessels of considerable
+burden can approach the town within a distance of five or six miles.
+The _embarcadero_, or landing, I think, is six miles from the Pueblo.
+The fertile plain between this and the town, at certain seasons of the
+year, is sometimes inundated. The "Pueblo Valley," which is eighty or
+one hundred miles in length, varying from ten to twenty in breadth, is
+well watered by the Rio Santa Clara and numerous _arroyos_, and is one
+of the most fertile and picturesque plains in California. For pastoral
+charms, fertility of soil, variety of productions, and delicious
+voluptuousness of climate and scenery, it cannot be surpassed. This
+valley, if properly cultivated, would alone produce breadstuffs enough
+to supply millions of population. The buildings of the Pueblo, with few
+exceptions, are constructed of adobes, and none of them have even the
+smallest pretensions to architectural taste or beauty. The church,
+which is situated near the centre of the town, exteriorly resembles a
+huge Dutch barn. The streets are irregular, every man having erected
+his house in a position most convenient to him. Aqueducts convey water
+from the Santa Clara River to all parts of the town. In the main plaza
+hundreds, perhaps thousands, of squirrels, whose abodes are under
+ground, have their residences. They are of a brownish colour, and about
+the size of our common gray squirrel. Emerging from their subterraneous
+abodes, they skip and leap about over the plaza without the least
+concern, no one molesting them.
+
+The population of the place is composed chiefly of native Californian
+land-proprietors. Their ranchos are in the valley, but their residences
+and gardens are in the town. We visited this afternoon the garden of
+Senor Don Antonio Sugnol. He received us with much politeness, and
+conducted us through his garden. Apples, pears, peaches, figs, oranges,
+and grapes, with other fruits which I do not now recollect, were
+growing and ripening. The grape-vines were bowed to the ground with the
+luxuriance arid weight of the yield; and more delicious fruit I never
+tasted. From the garden we crossed over to a flouring-mill recently
+erected by a son-in-law of Don Antonio, a Frenchman by birth. The mill
+is a creditable enterprise to the proprietor, and he will coin money
+from its operations.
+
+The Pueblo de San Jose is one of the oldest settlements in Alta
+California. Captain Fisher pointed out to me a house built of adobes,
+which has been standing between 80 and 90 years, and no house in the
+place appeared to be more substantial or in better repair. A garrison,
+composed of marines from the United States' ships, and volunteers
+enlisted from the American settlers in the country, is now stationed
+here. The post is under the command of Purser Watmough, of the United
+States sloop-of-war Portsmouth, commanded by Captain Montgomery. During
+the evening I visited several public places (bar-rooms), where I saw
+men and women engaged promiscuously at the game of _monte_. Gambling is
+a universal vice in California. All classes and both sexes participate
+in its excitements to some extent. The games, however, while I was
+present, were conducted with great propriety and decorum so far as the
+native Californians were concerned. The loud swearing and other
+turbulent demonstrations generally proceeded from the unsuccessful
+foreigners. I could not but observe the contrast between the two races
+in this respect. The one bore their losses with stoical composure and
+indifference; the other announced each unsuccessful bet with profane
+imprecations and maledictions. Excitement prompted the hazards of the
+former, avarice the latter.
+
+_September 20_.--The morning was cloudy and cool; but the clouds broke
+away about nine o'clock, and the sun shone from a vapourless sky, as
+usual. We met, at the Pueblo, Mr. Grove Cook, a native of Gerrard
+county, Ky., but for many years a resident of California. He is the
+proprietor of a rancho in the vicinity. We determined to leave our
+mules in charge of Mr. Cook's vaquero, and proceed to San Francisco on
+hired horses. The distance from the Pueblo de San Jose to San Francisco
+is called sixty miles. The time occupied in performing the journey, on
+Californian horses at Californian speed, is generally six or seven
+hours. Procuring horses for the journey, and leaving our baggage, with
+the exception of a change of clothing, we left the Pueblo about eleven
+o'clock A.M.
+
+The mission of Santa Clara is situated about two and a half miles from
+the town. A broad _alameda_, shaded by stately trees (elms and
+willows), planted by the _padres_, extends nearly the entire distance,
+forming a most beautiful drive or walk for equestrians or pedestrians.
+The motive of the _padres_ in planting this avenue was to afford the
+devout senoras and senoritas a shade from the sun, when walking from
+the Pueblo to the church at the mission to attend mass. A few minutes
+over the smooth level road, at the rapid speed of our fresh Californian
+horses, brought us to the mission, where we halted to make our
+observations. This mission is not so extensive in its buildings as that
+of San Jose, but the houses are generally in better repair. They are
+constructed of adobes; the church was open, and, entering the interior,
+I found the walls hung with coarse paintings and engravings of the
+saints, etc., etc. The chancel decorated with numerous images, and
+symbolical ornaments used by the priests in their worship. Gold-paper,
+and tinsel, in barbaric taste, are plastered without stint upon nearly
+every object that meets the eye, so that, when on festive occasions the
+church is lighted, it must present a very glittering appearance.
+
+The rich lands surrounding the mission are entirely neglected. I did
+not notice a foot of ground under cultivation, except the garden
+inclosure, which contained a variety of fruits and plants of the
+temperate and tropical climates. From want of care these are fast
+decaying. Some excellent pears were furnished us by Mrs. Bennett, an
+American lady, of Amazonian proportions, who, with her family of sons,
+has taken up her residence in one of the buildings of the mission. The
+picture of decay and ruin presented by this once flourishing
+establishment, surrounded by a country so fertile and scenery so
+enchanting, is a most melancholy spectacle to the passing traveller,
+and speaks a language of loud condemnation against the government.
+
+Proceeding on our journey, we travelled fifteen miles over a flat
+plain, timbered with groves and parks of evergreen oaks, and covered
+with a great variety of grasses, wild oats, and mustard. So rank is the
+growth of mustard in many places, that it is with difficulty that a
+horse can penetrate through it. Numerous birds flitted from tree to
+tree, making the groves musical with their harmonious notes. The
+black-tailed deer bounded frequently across our path, and the lurking
+and stealthy _coyotes_ were continually in view. We halted at a small
+cabin, with a _corral_ near it, in order to breathe our horses, and
+refresh ourselves. Captain Fisher had kindly filled a small sack with
+bread, cheese, roasted beef, and a small jug of excellent schiedam.
+Entering the cabin, the interior of which was cleanly, we found a
+solitary woman, young, neatly dressed, and displaying many personal
+charms. With the characteristic ease and grace of a Spanish woman, she
+gave the usual salutation for the hour of the day, "_Buenas tardes,
+senores caballeros_;" to which we responded by a suitable salutation.
+We requested of our hostess some water, which she furnished us
+immediately, in an earthen bowl. Opening our sack of provisions, we
+spread them upon the table, and invited the senora to partake of them
+with us, which invitation she accepted without the slightest
+hesitation, and with much good-nature, vivacity, and even thankfulness
+for our politeness. There are no women in the world for whose manners
+nature has done so much, and for whom art and education, in this
+respect, have done so little, as these Hispano-American females on the
+coast of the Pacific. In their deportment towards strangers they are
+queens, when, in costume, they are peasants. None of them, according to
+our tastes, can be called beautiful; but what they want in complexion
+and regularity of feature is fully supplied by their kindliness, the
+soul and sympathy which beam from their dark eyes, and their grace and
+warmth of manners and expression.
+
+While enjoying the _pic-nic_ with our agreeable hostess, a _caballada_
+was driven into the _corral_ by two _vaqueros_, and two gentlemen soon
+after came into the house. They were Messrs. Lightson and Murphy, from
+the Pueblo, bound for San Francisco, and had stopped to change their
+horses. We immediately made ready to accompany them, and were soon on
+the road again, travelling at racehorse speed; these gentlemen having
+furnished us with a change of horses, in order that we might be able to
+keep up with them.
+
+To account for the fast travelling in California on horseback, it is
+necessary to explain the mode by which it is accomplished. A gentleman
+who starts upon a journey of one hundred miles, and wishes to perform
+the trip in a day, will take with him ten fresh horses and a _vaquero_.
+The eight loose horses are placed under the charge of the _vaquero_,
+and are driven in front, at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour,
+according to the speed that is required for the journey. At the end of
+twenty miles, the horses which have been rode are discharged and turned
+into the _caballada_, and horses which have not been rode, but driven
+along without weight, are saddled and mounted and rode at the same
+speed, and so on to the end of the journey. If a horse gives out from
+inability to proceed at this gait, he is left on the road. The owner's
+brand is on him, and, if of any value, he can be recovered without
+difficulty. But in California no one thinks of stopping on the road, on
+account of the loss of a horse, or his inability to travel at the rate
+of ten or twelve miles an hour. Horseflesh is cheap, and the animal
+must go as long as he can, and when he cannot travel longer he is left,
+and another horse is substituted.
+
+Twenty-five miles, at a rapid gait over a level and fertile plain,
+brought us to the rancho of Don Francisco Sanchez, where we halted to
+change horses. Breathing our animals a short time, we resumed our
+journey, and reached the mission of San Francisco Dolores, three miles
+from the town of San Francisco, just after sunset. Between the mission
+and the town the road is very sandy, and we determined to remain here
+for the night, _corraling_ the loose animals, and picketing those we
+rode. It was some time, however, before we could find a house to lodge
+in. The foreign occupants of the mission buildings, to whom we applied
+for accommodations for the night, gave us no satisfaction. After
+several applications, we were at last accommodated by an old and very
+poor Californian Spaniard, who inhabited a small house in one of the
+ruinous squares, formerly occupied by the operative Indians. All that he
+had (and it was but little) was at our disposal. A more miserable
+supper I never sat down to; but the spirit of genuine hospitality in
+which it was given imparted to the poor viands a flavour that rendered
+the entertainment almost sumptuous--in my imagination. A cup of water
+cheerfully given to the weary and thirsty traveller, by him who has no
+more to part with, is worth a cask of wine grudgingly bestowed by the
+stingy or the ostentatious churl. Notwithstanding we preferred sleeping
+on our own blankets, these poor people would not suffer us to do it,
+but spread their own pallets on the earth floor of their miserable hut,
+and insisted so strongly upon our occupying them, that we could not
+refuse.
+
+_September 21_.--We rose at daylight. The morning was clear, and our
+horses were shivering with the cold. The mission of San Francisco is
+situated at the northern terminus of the fertile plain over which we
+travelled yesterday, and at the foot, on the eastern side, of the coast
+range of mountains. These mountains are of considerable elevation. The
+shore of the Bay of San Francisco is about two miles distant from the
+mission. An _arroyo_ waters the mission lands, and empties into the
+bay. The church of the mission, and the main buildings contiguous, are
+in tolerable repair. In the latter, several Mormon families, which
+arrived in the ship Brooklyn from New York, are quartered. As in the
+other missions I have passed through, the Indian quarters are crumbling
+into shapeless heaps of mud.
+
+Our aged host, notwithstanding he is a pious Catholic, and considers us
+as heretics and heathens, gave us his benediction in a very impressive
+manner when we were about to start. Mounting our horses at sunrise, we
+travelled three miles over low ridges of sand-hills, with sufficient
+soil, however, to produce a thick growth of scrubby evergreen oak, and
+brambles of hawthorn, wild currant and gooseberry bushes, rose bushes,
+briers, etc. We reached the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Esq., late
+American vice-consul at San Francisco, when the sun was about an hour
+high. The morning was calm and beautiful. Not a ripple disturbed the
+placid and glassy surface of the magnificent bay and harbour, upon
+which rested at anchor thirty large vessels, consisting of whalemen,
+merchantmen, and the U.S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery.
+Besides these, there were numerous small craft, giving to the harbour a
+commercial air, of which some of the large cities on the Atlantic coast
+would feel vain. The bay, from the town of San Francisco due east, is
+about twelve miles in breadth. An elevated range of hills bounds the
+view on the opposite side. These slope gradually down, and between them
+and the shore there is a broad and fertile plain, which is called the
+_Contra Costa_. There are several small islands in the bay, but they do
+not present a fertile appearance to the eye.
+
+We were received with every mark of respectful attention and cordial
+hospitality by Mr. Leidesdorff. Mr. L. is a native of Denmark; was for
+some years a resident of the United States; but subsequently the
+captain of a merchant vessel, and has been established at this place as
+a merchant some five or six years. The house in which he resides, now
+under the process of completion, is the largest private building in the
+town. Being shown to a well-furnished room, we changed our
+travel-soiled clothing for a more civilized costume, by which time
+breakfast was announced, and we were ushered into a large dining-hall.
+In the centre stood a table, upon which was spread a substantial
+breakfast of stewed and fried beef, fried onions, and potatoes, bread,
+butter, and coffee. Our appetites were very sharp, and we did full
+justice to the merits of the fare before us. The servants waiting upon
+the table were an Indian _muchachito_ and _muchachita_, about ten or
+twelve years of age. They had not been long from their wild
+_rancherias_, and knew but little of civilized life. Our host, however,
+who speaks, I believe, nearly every living language, whether of
+Christian, barbarian, or savage nations, seemed determined to impress
+upon their dull intellects the forms and customs of civilization. He
+scolded them with great vivacity, sometimes in their own tongue,
+sometimes in French, Spanish, Portuguese, Danish, German, and English,
+in accordance with the language in which he was thinking at the moment.
+It seemed to me that the little fat Indians were more confused than
+enlightened by his emphatic instructions. At the table, besides
+ourselves and host, was Lieutenant W.A. Bartlett, of the U.S.
+sloop-of-war Portsmouth, now acting as Alcalde of the town and district
+of San Francisco.
+
+The Portsmouth, Commander Montgomery, is the only United States vessel
+of war now lying in the harbour. She is regarded as the finest vessel
+of her class belonging to our navy. By invitation of Lieutenant
+Bartlett, I went on board of her between ten and eleven o'clock. The
+crew and officers were assembled on deck to attend Divine service. They
+were all dressed with great neatness, and seemed to listen with deep
+attention to the Episcopal service and a sermon, which were read by
+Commander Montgomery, who is a member of the church.
+
+In the afternoon I walked to the summit of one of the elevated hills in
+the vicinity of the town, from which I had a view of the entrance to
+the bay of San Francisco and of the Pacific Ocean. A thick fog hung
+over the ocean outside of the bay. The deep roar of the eternally
+restless waves, as they broke one after another upon the beach, or
+dashed against the rock-bound shore, could be heard with great
+distinctness, although some five or six miles distant. The entrance
+from the ocean into the bay is about a mile and half in breadth. The
+waters of the bay appear to have forced a passage through the elevated
+ridge of hills next to the shore of the Pacific. These rise abruptly on
+either side of the entrance. The water at the entrance and inside is of
+sufficient depth to admit the largest ship that was ever constructed;
+and so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the
+harbour, that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety in all kinds
+of weather. The capacity of the harbour is sufficient for the
+accommodation of all the navies of the world.
+
+The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of the
+entrance, fronting on the bay, and about six miles from the ocean. The
+flow and ebb of the tide are sufficient to bring a vessel to the
+anchorage in front of the town and carry it outside, without the aid of
+wind, or even against an unfavourable wind. A more approachable
+harbour, or one of greater security, is unknown to navigators. The
+permanent population of the town is at this time between one and two
+hundred,[1] and is composed almost exclusively of foreigners. There are
+but two or three native Californian families in the place. The
+transient population, and at present it is quite numerous, consists of
+the garrison of marines stationed here, and the officers and crews
+attached to the merchant and whale ships lying in the harbour. The
+houses, with a few exceptions, are small adobes and frames, constructed
+without regard to architectural taste, convenience, or comfort. Very
+few of them have either chimneys or fire-places. The inhabitants
+contrive to live the year round without fires, except for cooking. The
+position of San Francisco for commerce is, without doubt, superior to
+any other port on the Pacific coast of North America. The country
+contiguous and contributory to it cannot be surpassed in fertility,
+healthfulness of climate, and beauty of scenery. It is capable of
+producing whatever is necessary to the sustenance of man, and many of
+the luxuries of tropical climates, not taking into the account the
+mineral wealth of the surrounding hills and mountains, which there is
+reason to believe is very great. This place is, doubtless, destined to
+become one of the largest and most opulent commercial cities in the
+world, and under American authority it will rise with astonishing
+rapidity. The principal merchants now established here are Messrs.
+Leidesdorff, Grimes and Davis, and Frank Ward, a young gentleman
+recently from New York. These houses carry on an extensive and
+profitable commerce with the interior, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon,
+and the southern coast of the Pacific. The produce of Oregon for
+exportation is flour, lumber, salmon, and cheese; of the Sandwich
+Islands, sugar, coffee, and preserved tropical fruits.
+
+California, until recently, has had no commerce, in the broad
+signification of the term. A few commercial houses of Boston and New
+York have monopolized all the trade on this coast for a number of
+years. These houses have sent out ships freighted with cargoes of dry
+goods and a variety of _knick-knacks_ saleable in the country. The
+ships are fitted up for the retail sale of these articles, and trade
+from port to port, vending their wares on board to the rancheros at
+prices that would be astonishing at home. For instance, the price of
+common brown cotton cloth is one dollar per yard, and other articles in
+this and even greater proportion of advance upon home prices. They
+receive in payment for their wares, hides and tallow. The price of a
+dry hide is ordinarily one dollar and fifty cents. The price of tallow
+I do not know. When the ship has disposed of her cargo, she is loaded
+with hides, and returns to Boston, where the hides bring about four or
+five dollars, according to the fluctuations of the market. Immense
+fortunes have been made by this trade; and between the government of
+Mexico and the traders on the coast California has been literally
+_skinned_, annually, for the last thirty years. Of natural wealth the
+population of California possess a superabundance, and are immensely
+rich; still, such have been the extortionate prices that they have been
+compelled to pay for their commonest artificial luxuries and
+wearing-apparel, that generally they are but indifferently provided
+with the ordinary necessaries of civilized life. For a suit of clothes,
+which in New York or Boston would cost seventy-five dollars, the
+Californian has been compelled to pay five times that sum in hides at
+one dollar and fifty cents; so that a _caballero_, to clothe himself
+genteelly, has been obliged, as often as he renewed his dress, to
+sacrifice about two hundred of the cattle on his rancho. No people,
+whether males or females, are more fond of display; no people have paid
+more dearly to gratify this vanity; and yet no civilized people I have
+seen are so deficient in what they most covet.
+
+  [1] This was in September, 1846. In June, 1847, when I left San
+      Francisco, on my return to the United States, the population had
+      increased to about twelve hundred, and houses were rising in all
+      directions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Climate of San Francisco
+  Periodical winds
+  Dine on board the Portsmouth
+  A supper party on shore
+  Arrival of Commodore Stockton at San Francisco
+  Rumours of rebellion from the south
+  Californian court
+  Trial by jury
+  Fandango
+  Californian belles
+  American pioneers of the Pacific
+  Reception of Commodore Stockton
+  Sitca
+  Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south
+  Offer our services as volunteers.
+
+
+From the 21st of September to the 13th of October I remained at San
+Francisco. The weather during this period was uniformly clear. The
+climate of San Francisco is peculiar and local, from its position.
+During the summer and autumnal months, the wind on this coast blows
+from the west and northwest, directly from the ocean. The mornings here
+are usually calm and pleasantly warm. About twelve o'clock M., the wind
+blows strong from the ocean, through the entrance of the bay, rendering
+the temperature cool enough for woollen clothing in midsummer. About
+sunset the wind dies away, and the evenings and nights are comparatively
+calm. In the winter months the wind blows in soft and gentle breezes
+from the south-east, and the temperature is agreeable, the thermometer
+rarely sinking below 50 deg. When the winds blow from the ocean, it
+never rains; when they blow from the land, as they do during the winter
+and spring months, the weather is showery, and resembles that of the
+month of May in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The coolness
+of the climate and briskness of the air above described are confined to
+particular positions on the coast, and the description in this respect
+is not applicable to the interior of the country, nor even to other
+localities immediately on the coast.
+
+On the 21st, by invitation of Captain Montgomery, I dined on board of
+the sloop-of-war Portsmouth. The party, including myself, consisted of
+Colonel Russell, Mr. Jacob, Lieutenant Bartlett, and a son of Captain
+M. There are few if any officers in our navy more highly and
+universally esteemed, for their moral qualities and professional
+merits, than Captain M. He is a sincere Christian, a brave officer, and
+an accomplished gentleman. Under the orders of Commodore Sloat, he
+first raised the American flag in San Francisco. We spent the afternoon
+most agreeably, and the refined hospitality, courteous manners, and
+intelligent and interesting conversation of our host made us regret the
+rapidly fleeting moments. The wines on the table were the produce of
+the vine of California, and, having attained age, were of an excellent
+quality in substance and flavour.
+
+I attended a supper-party given this evening by Mr. Frank Ward. The
+party was composed of citizens of the town, and officers of the navy
+and the merchant and whale ships in the harbour. In such a company as
+was here assembled, it was very difficult for me to realize that I was
+many thousand miles from, home, in a strange and foreign country. All
+the faces about me were American, and there was nothing in scene or
+sentiment to remind the guests of their remoteness from their native
+shores. Indeed, it seems to be a settled opinion, that California is
+henceforth to compose a part of the United States, and every American
+who is now here considers himself as treading upon his own soil, as
+much as if he were in one of the old thirteen revolutionary states.
+Song, sentiment, story, and wit heightened the enjoyments of the
+excellent entertainment of our host, and the jovial party did not
+separate until a late hour of the night. The guests, as may be
+supposed, were composed chiefly of gentlemen who had, from their
+pursuits, travelled over most of the world--had seen developments of
+human character under every variety of circumstance, and observed
+society, civilized, barbarous, and savage, in all its phases. Their
+conversation, therefore, when around the convivial board, possessed an
+unhackneyed freshness and raciness highly entertaining and instructive.
+
+On the 27th of September, the U.S. frigate Congress, Captain
+Livingston, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore Stockton, and the
+U.S. frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, anchored in the harbour, having
+sailed from Monterey a day or two previously. The arrival of these
+large men-of-war produced an increase of the bustle in the small town.
+Blue coats and bright buttons (the naval uniform) became the prevailing
+costume at the billiard-rooms and other public places, and the plain
+dress of a private citizen might be regarded as a badge of distinction.
+
+On the 1st of October a courier arrived from the south with
+intelligence that the Californians at Los Angeles had organized a force
+and rebelled against the authority of the Americans--that they had also
+captured an American merchant-vessel lying at San Pedro, the port of
+the city of Angels, about thirty miles distant, and robbed it of a
+quantity of merchandise and specie. Whether this latter report was or
+was not true, I do not know--the former was correct. The frigate
+Savannah sailed for Los Angeles immediately.
+
+Among those American naval officers whose agreeable acquaintance I made
+at San Francisco, was Mr. James F. Schenck, first-lieutenant of the
+frigate Congress, brother of the distinguished member of congress from
+Ohio of that name,--a native of Dayton, Ohio,--a gentleman of
+intelligence, keen wit, and a most accomplished officer. The officers
+of our navy are our representatives in foreign countries, and they are
+generally such representatives as their constituents have reason to
+feel proud of. Their chivalry, patriotism, gentlemanlike deportment,
+and professional skill cannot be too much admired and applauded by
+their countrymen. I shall ever feel grateful to the naval officers of
+the Pacific squadron for their numerous civilities during my sojourn on
+the Pacific coast.
+
+Among the novelties presented while at San Francisco was a trial by
+jury--the second tribunal of this kind which had been organized in
+California. The trial look place before Judge Bartlett, and the
+litigants were two Mormons. Counsel was employed on both sides. Some of
+the forms of American judicial proceedings were observed, and many of
+the legal technicalities and nice flaws, so often urged in common-law
+courts, were here argued by the learned counsel of the parties, with a
+vehemence of language and gesticulation with which I thought the legal
+learning and acumen displayed did not correspond. The proceedings were
+a mixture, made up of common law, equity, and a sprinkling of military
+despotism--which last ingredient the court was compelled to employ,
+when entangled in the intricate meshes woven by the counsel for the
+litigants, in order to extricate itself. The jury, after the case was
+referred to them, were what is called "hung;" they could not agree, and
+the matters in issue, therefore, remained exactly where they were
+before the proceedings were commenced.
+
+I attended one evening a _fandango_ given by Mr. Ridley, an English
+gentleman, whose wife is a Californian lady. Several of the senoras and
+senoritas from the ranchos of the vicinity were present. The
+Californian ladies dance with much ease and grace. The waltz appears to
+be a favourite with them. Smoking is not prohibited in these
+assemblies, nor is it confined to the gentlemen. The _cigarita_ is
+freely used by the senoras and senoritas, and they puff it with much
+gusto while threading the mazes of the cotillion or swinging in the
+waltz.
+
+I had the pleasure of being introduced, at the residence of Mr.
+Leidesdorff, to two young ladies, sisters and belles in Alta
+California. They are members of an old and numerous family on the
+Contra Costa. Their names are singular indeed, for, if I heard them
+correctly, one of them was called Donna Maria Jesus, and the other
+Donna Maria Conception. They were interesting and graceful young
+ladies, with regular features, symmetrical figures, and their dark eyes
+flashed with all the intelligence and passion characteristic of Spanish
+women.
+
+Among the gentlemen with whom I met soon after my arrival at San
+Francisco, and whoso acquaintance I afterwards cultivated, were Mr. E.
+Grimes and Mr. N. Spear, both natives of Massachusetts, but residents
+of this coast and of the Pacific Islands, for many years. They may be
+called the patriarchs of American pioneers on the Pacific. After
+forming an acquaintance with Mr. G., if any one were to say to me that
+
+    "Old Grimes is dead, that good old man,"
+
+I should not hesitate to contradict him with emphasis; for he is still
+living, and possesses all the charities and virtues which can adorn
+human nature, with some of the eccentricities of his name-sake in the
+song. By leading a life of peril and adventure on the Pacific Ocean for
+fifty years he has accumulated a large fortune, and is a man now
+proverbial for his integrity, candour, and charities. Both of these
+gentlemen have been largely engaged in the local commerce of the
+Pacific. Mr. S., some twenty-five or thirty years ago, colonized one of
+the Cannibal Islands, and remained upon it with the colony for nearly
+two years. The attempt to introduce agriculture into the island was a
+failure, and the enterprise was afterwards abandoned.
+
+On the evening of the third of October, it having been announced that
+Commodore Stockton would land on the fifth, a public meeting of the
+citizens was called by the alcalde, for the purpose of adopting
+suitable arrangements for his reception, in his civic capacity as
+governor. The meeting was convened in the _plaza_ (Portsmouth Square).
+Colonel Russell was appointed chairman, and on motion of E. Bryant a
+committee was appointed to make all necessary and suitable arrangements
+for the reception of his excellency, Governor Stockton. The following
+account of this pageant I extract from the "California" newspaper of
+October 24th, 1846.
+
+"Agreeable to public notice, a large number of the citizens of San
+Francisco and vicinity assembled in Portsmouth Square for the purpose
+of meeting his excellency Robert F. Stockton, to welcome his arrival,
+and offer him the hospitalities of the city. At ten o'clock, a
+procession was formed, led by the Chief Marshal of the day, supported
+on either hand by two aids, followed by an excellent band of music--a
+military escort, under command of Captain J. Zeilen, U.S.M.C.--Captain
+John B. Montgomery and suite--Magistracy of the District, and the
+Orator of the day--Foreign Consuls--Captain John Paty, Senior Captain
+of the Hawanian Navy--Lieutenant-Commanding Ruducoff, Russian Navy, and
+Lieutenant-Commanding Bonnett, French Navy. The procession was closed
+by the Committee of Arrangements, captains of ships in port, and a long
+line of citizens.
+
+"General Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo, with several others who had held
+office under the late government, took their appropriate place in the
+line.
+
+"The procession moved in fine style down Portsmouth Street to the
+landing, and formed a line in Water Street. The Governor-General landed
+from his barge, and was met on the wharf by Captain John B. Montgomery,
+U.S.N., Judge W.A. Bartlett, and Marshal of the day (Frank Ward), who
+conducted him to the front of the line, and presented him to the
+procession, through the orator of the day, Colonel Russell, who
+addressed the commodore."
+
+When the governor and commander-in-chief had closed his reply, the
+procession moved through the principal streets, and halted in front of
+Captain Leidesdorff's residence, where the governor and suite entered,
+and was presented to a number of ladies, who welcomed him to the shores
+of California. After which a large portion of the procession
+accompanied the governor, on horseback, to the mission of San Francisco
+Dolores, several miles in the country, and returned to an excellent
+collation prepared by the committee of arrangements, at the house of
+Captain Leidesdorff. After the cloth was removed, the usual number of
+regular toasts, prepared by the committee of arrangements, and numerous
+volunteer sentiments by the members of the company, were drunk with
+many demonstrations of enthusiasm, and several speeches were made. In
+response to a complimentary toast, Commodore Stockton made an eloquent
+address of an hour's length. The toasts given in English were
+translated into Spanish, and those given in Spanish were translated
+into English. A ball in honour of the occasion was given by the
+committee of arrangements in the evening, which was attended by all the
+ladies, native and foreign, in the town and vicinity, the naval
+officers attached to the three ships of war, and the captains of the
+merchant vessels lying in the harbour. So seductive were the
+festivities of the day and the pleasures of the dance, that they were
+not closed until a late hour of the night, or rather until an early
+hour in the morning.
+
+Among the numerous vessels of many nations at anchor in the harbour is
+a Russian brig from Sitca, the central port of the Russian-American Fur
+Company, on the northwestern coast of this continent. She is commanded
+by Lieutenant Ruducoff of the Russian navy, and is here to be freighted
+with wheat to supply that settlement with breadstuff. Sitca is situated
+in a high northern latitude, and has a population of some four or five
+thousand inhabitants. A large portion of these, I conjecture, are
+christianized natives or Indians. Many of the crew of this vessel are
+the aborigines of the country to which she belongs, and from which she
+last sailed. I noticed, however, from an inscription, that the brig was
+built at Newburyport, Massachusetts, showing that the autocrat of all
+the Russias is tributary, to some extent, to the free Yankees of New
+England for his naval equipment. On the 11th of October, by invitation
+of Lieutenant Ruducoff, in company of Mr. Jacob and Captain
+Leidesdorff, I dined on board this vessel. The Russian customs are in
+some respects peculiar. Soon after we reached the vessel and were shown
+into the cabin, a lunch was served up. This consisted of a variety of
+dried and smoked fish, pickled fish-roe, and other hyperborean pickles,
+the nature of which, whether animal or vegetable, I could not
+determine. Various wines and liquors accompanied this lunch, the
+discussion of which lasted until an Indian servant, a native of the
+north-pole, or thereabouts, announced dinner. We were then shown into a
+handsomely furnished dining-cabin, where the table was spread. The
+dinner consisted of several courses, some of which were peculiarly
+Russian or Sitcan, and I regret that my culinary knowledge is not equal
+to the task of describing them, for the benefit of epicures of a more
+southern region than the place of their invention. They were certainly
+very delightful to the palate. The afternoon glided away most
+agreeably.
+
+On the 12th of October, Captain Fremont, with a number of volunteers
+destined for the south, to co-operate with Commodore Stockton in the
+suppression of the reported rebellion at Los Angeles, arrived at San
+Francisco from the Sacramento. I had previously offered my services,
+and Mr. Jacob had done the same, to Commodore Stockton, as volunteers
+in this expedition, if they were necessary or desirable. They were now
+repeated. Although travellers in the country, we were American
+citizens, and we felt under obligation to assist in defending the flag
+of our country wherever it had been planted by proper authority. At
+this time we were given to understand that a larger force than was
+already organised was not considered necessary for the expedition.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+  Leave San Francisco for Sonoma
+  Sonoma creek
+  "Bear men."
+  Islands in the bay
+  Liberality of "Uncle Sam" to sailors
+  Sonoma
+  Beautiful country
+  General Vallejo
+  Senora Vallejo
+  Thomas O. Larkin, U.S. Consul
+  Signs of rain
+  The seasons in California
+  More warlike rumours from the south
+  Mission of San Rafael
+  An Irish ranchero
+  Sausolito
+  Return to San Francisco
+  Meet Lippincott
+  Discomfort of Californian houses.
+
+
+_October 13_.--This morning the United States frigate Congress,
+Commodore Stockton, and the merchant-ship Sterling, employed to
+transport the volunteers under the command of Captain Fremont (one
+hundred and eighty in number), sailed for the south. The destination of
+these vessels was understood to be San Pedro or San Diego. While those
+vessels were leaving the harbour, accompanied by Mr. Jacob, I took
+passage for Sonoma in a cutter belonging to the sloop-of-war
+Portsmouth. Sonoma is situated on the northern side of the Bay of San
+Francisco, about 15 miles from the shore, and about 45 miles from the
+town of San Francisco. Sonoma creek is navigable for vessels of
+considerable burden to within four miles of the town.
+
+Among the passengers in the boat were Mr. Ide, who acted so conspicuous
+a part in what is called the "Bear Revolution," and Messrs. Nash and
+Grigsby, who were likewise prominent in this movement. The boat was
+manned by six sailors and a cockswain. We passed Yerba Buena, Bird, and
+several other small islands in the bay. Some of these are white, as if
+covered with snow, from the deposit upon them of bird-manure. Tens of
+thousands of wild geese, ducks, gulls, and other water-fowls, were
+perched upon them, or sporting in the waters of the bay, making a
+prodigious cackling and clatter with their voices and wings. By the aid
+of oars and sails we reached the mouth of Sonoma creek about 9 o'clock
+at night, where we landed and encamped on the low marsh which borders
+the bay on this side. The marshes contiguous to the Bay of San
+Francisco are extensive, and with little trouble I believe they could
+be reclaimed and transformed into valuable and productive rice
+plantations. Having made our supper on raw salt pork and bread
+generously furnished by the sailors, as soon as we landed, we spread
+our blankets on the damp and rank vegetation and slept soundly until
+morning.
+
+_October 14_.--Wind and tide being favourable, at daylight we proceeded
+up the serpentine creek, which winds through a flat and fertile plain,
+sometimes marshy, at others more elevated and dry, to the
+_embarcadero_, ten or twelve miles from the bay. We landed here between
+nine and ten o'clock, A.M. All the passengers, except ourselves,
+proceeded immediately to the town. By them we sent for a cart to
+transport our saddles, bridles, blankets, and other baggage, which we
+had brought with us. While some of the sailors were preparing
+breakfast, others, with their muskets, shot wild geese, with which the
+plain was covered. An excellent breakfast was prepared in a short time
+by our sailor companions, of which we partook with them. No benevolent
+old gentleman provides more bountifully for his servants than "Uncle
+Sam." These sailors, from the regular rations served out to them from
+their ship, gave an excellent breakfast, of bread, butter, coffee, tea,
+fresh beefsteaks, fried salt pork, cheese, pickles, and a variety of
+other delicacies, to which we had been unaccustomed for several months,
+and which cannot be obtained at present in this country. They all said
+that their rations were more than ample in quantity, and excellent in
+quality, and that no government was so generous in supplying its
+sailors as the government of the United States. They appeared to be
+happy, and contented with their condition and service, and animated
+with a patriotic pride for the honour of their country, and the flag
+under which they sailed. The open frankness and honest patriotism of
+these single-hearted and weather-beaten tars gave a spice and flavour
+to our entertainment which I shall not soon forget.
+
+From the _embarcadero_ we walked, under the influence of the rays of an
+almost broiling sun, four miles to the town of Sonoma. The plain, which
+lies between the landing and Sonoma, is timbered sparsely with
+evergreen oaks. The luxuriant grass is now brown and crisp. The hills
+surrounding this beautiful valley or plain are gentle, sloping, highly
+picturesque, and covered to their tops with wild oats. Reaching Sonoma,
+we procured lodgings in a large and half-finished adobe house, erected
+by Don Salvador Vallejo, but now occupied by Mr. Griffith, an American
+emigrant, originally from North Carolina. Sonoma is one of the old
+mission establishments of California; but there is now scarcely a
+mission building standing, most of them having fallen into shapeless
+masses of mud; and a few years will prostrate the roofless walls which
+are now standing. The principal houses in the place are the residences
+of Gen. Don Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo; his brother-in-law, Mr. J.P.
+Leese, an American; and his brother, Don Salvador Vallejo. The quartel,
+a barn-like adobe house, faces the public square. The town presents a
+most dull and ruinous appearance; but the country surrounding it is
+exuberantly fertile, and romantically picturesque, and Sonoma, under
+American authority, and with an American population, will very soon
+become a secondary commercial point, and a delightful residence. Most
+of the buildings are erected around a _plaza_, about two hundred yards
+square. The only ornaments in this square are numerous skulls and
+dislocated skeletons of slaughtered beeves, with which hideous remains
+the ground is strewn. Cold and warm springs gush from the hills near
+the town, and supply, at all seasons, a sufficiency of water to
+irrigate any required extent of ground on the plain below. I noticed
+outside of the square several groves of peach and other fruit trees,
+and vineyards, which were planted here by the _padres_; but the walls
+and fences that once surrounded them are now fallen, or have been
+consumed for fuel; and they are exposed to the _mercies_ of the immense
+herds of cattle which roam over and graze upon the plain.
+
+_October 15_.--I do not like to trouble the reader with a frequent
+reference to the myriads of fleas and other vermin which infest the
+rancherias and old mission establishments in California; but, if any
+sinning soul ever suffered the punishments of purgatory before leaving
+its tenement of clay, those torments were endured by myself last night.
+When I rose from my blankets this morning, after a sleepless night, I
+do not think there was an inch square of my body that did not exhibit
+the inflammation consequent upon a puncture by a flea, or some other
+equally rabid and poisonous insect. Small-pox, erysipelas, measles, and
+scarlet-fever combined, could not have imparted to my skin a more
+inflamed and sanguineous appearance. The multitudes of these insects,
+however, have been generated by Indian filthiness. They do not disturb
+the inmates of those _casas_ where cleanliness prevails.
+
+Having letters of introduction to General Vallejo and Mr. Leese, I
+delivered them this morning. General Vallejo is a native Californian,
+and a gentleman of intelligence and taste far superior to most of his
+countrymen. The interior of his house presented a different appearance
+from any house occupied by native Californians which I have entered
+since I have been in the country. Every apartment, even the main
+entrance-hall and corridors, were scrupulously clean, and presented an
+air of comfort which I have not elsewhere seen in California. The
+parlour was furnished with handsome chairs, sofas, mirrors, and tables,
+of mahogany framework, and a fine piano, the first I have seen in the
+country. Several paintings and some superior engravings ornamented the
+walls. Senora Vallejo is a lady of charming personal appearance, and
+possesses in the highest degree that natural grace, ease, and warmth of
+manner which render Spanish ladies so attractive and fascinating to the
+stranger. The children, some five or six in number, were all beautiful
+and interesting. General V. is, I believe, strongly desirous that the
+United States shall retain and annex California. He is thoroughly
+disgusted with Mexican sway, which is fast sending his country
+backwards, instead of forwards, in the scale of civilization, and for
+years he has been desirous of the change which has now taken place.
+
+In the afternoon we visited the house of Mr. Leese, which is also
+furnished in American style. Mr. L. is the proprietor of a vineyard in
+the vicinity of the town, and we were regaled upon grapes as luscious,
+I dare say, as the forbidden fruit that provoked the first
+transgression. Nothing of the fruit kind can exceed the delicious
+richness and flavour, of the California grape.
+
+This evening Thomas O. Larkin, Esq., late United States Consul for
+California, arrived here, having left San Francisco on the same morning
+that we did, travelling by land. Mr. L. resides in Monterey, but I had
+the pleasure of an introduction to him at San Francisco several days
+previously to my leaving that place. Mr. L. is a native of Boston, and
+has been a resident in California for about fifteen years, during which
+time he has amassed a large fortune, and from the changes now taking
+place he is rapidly increasing it. He will probably be the first
+American millionnaire of California.
+
+_October 17_.--The last two mornings have been cloudy and cool. The
+rainy season, it is thought by the weather-wise in this climate, will
+set in earlier this year than usual. The periodical rains ordinarily
+commence about the middle of November. It is now a month earlier, and
+the meteorological phenomena portend "falling weather." The rains
+during the winter, in California, are not continuous, as is generally
+supposed. It sometimes rains during an entire day, without cessation,
+but most generally the weather is showery, with intervals of bright
+sunshine and a delightful temperature. The first rains of the year fall
+usually in November, and the last about the middle of May. As soon as
+the ground becomes moistened, the grass, and other hardy vegetation,
+springs up, and by the middle of December the landscape is arrayed in a
+robe of fresh verdure. The grasses grow through the entire winter, and
+most of them mature by the first of May. The season for sowing wheat
+commences as soon as the ground is sufficiently softened by moisture to
+admit of ploughing, and continues until March or April.
+
+We had made preparations this morning to visit a rancho, belonging to
+General Vallejo, in company with the general and Mr. Larkin. This
+rancho contains about eleven leagues of land, bordering upon a portion
+of the Bay of San Francisco, twenty-five or thirty miles distant from
+Sonoma. Just as we were about mounting our horses, however, a courier
+arrived from San Francisco with despatches from Captain Montgomery,
+addressed to Lieutenant Revere, the military commandant at this post,
+giving such intelligence in regard to the insurrection at the south,
+that we determined to return to San Francisco forthwith. Procuring
+horses, and accompanied by Mr. Larkin, we left Sonoma about two o'clock
+in the afternoon, riding at the usual California speed. After leaving
+Sonoma plain we crossed a ridge of hills, and entered the fertile and
+picturesque valley of Petaluma creek, which empties into the bay.
+General Vallejo has an extensive rancho in this valley, upon which he
+has recently erected, at great expense, a very large house.
+Architecture, however, in this country is in its infancy. The money
+expended in erecting this house, which presents to the eye no tasteful
+architectural attractions, would, in the United States, have raised a
+palace of symmetrical proportions, and adorned it with every requisite
+ornament. Large herds of cattle were grazing in this valley.
+
+From Petaluma valley we crossed a high rolling country, and reached the
+mission of San Rafael (forty-five miles) between seven and eight
+o'clock in the evening. San Rafael is situated two or three miles from
+the shore of the bay, and commands an extensive view of the bay and its
+islands. The mission buildings are generally in the same ruinous
+condition I have before described. We put up at the house of a Mr.
+Murphy, a scholastic Irish bachelor, who has been a resident of
+California for a number of years. His _casa_, when we arrived, was
+closed, and it was with some difficulty that we could gain admission.
+When, however, the occupant of the house had ascertained, from one of
+the loopholes of the building, who we were, the doors were soon
+unbarred and we were admitted, but not without many sallies of Irish
+wit, sometimes good-natured, and sometimes keenly caustic and ironical.
+We found a table spread with cold mutton and cold beef upon it. A cup
+of coffee was soon prepared by the Indian muchachos and muchachas, and
+our host brought out some scheidam and _aguardiente_. A draught or two
+of these liquids seemed to correct the acidity of his humour, and he
+entertained us with his jokes and conversation several hours.
+
+_October 18_.--From San Rafael to Sausolito, opposite San Francisco on
+the north side of the entrance to the bay, it is five leagues (fifteen
+miles), generally over elevated hills and through deep hollows, the
+ascents and descents being frequently steep and laborious to our
+animals. Starting at half-past seven o'clock, we reached the residence
+of Captain Richardson, the proprietor of Sausolito, about nine o'clock
+in the morning. In travelling this distance we passed some temporary
+houses, erected by American emigrants on the mission lands, and the
+rancho of Mrs. Reed, a widow. We immediately hired a whale-boat from
+one of the ships, lying here, at two dollars for each passenger, and
+between ten and eleven o'clock we landed in San Francisco.
+
+I met, soon after my arrival, Mr. Lippincott, heretofore mentioned, who
+accompanied us a portion of the distance over the mountains; and Mr.
+Hastings, who, with Mr. Hudspeth, conducted a party of the emigrants
+from fort Bridger by the new route, _via_ the south end of the Salt
+Lake, to Mary's River. From Mr. Lippincott I learned the particulars of
+an engagement between a party of the emigrants (Captain West's company)
+and the Indians on Mary's River, which resulted, as has before been
+stated, in the death of Mr. Sallee and a dangerous arrow wound to Mr.
+L. He had now, however, recovered from the effects of the wound. The
+emigrants, who accompanied Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth, or followed
+their trail, had all reached the valley of the Sacramento without any
+material loss or disaster.
+
+I remained at San Francisco from the 18th to the 22d of October. The
+weather during this time was sufficiently cool to render fires
+necessary to comfort in the houses; but fireplaces or stoves are
+luxuries which but few of the San Franciscans have any knowledge of,
+except in their kitchens. This deficiency, however, will soon be
+remedied. American settlers here will not build houses without
+chimneys. They would as soon plan a house without a door, or with the
+entrance upon its roof, in imitation of the architecture of the Pueblo
+Indians of New Mexico.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia
+  An appeal to the alcalde
+  Kanackas
+  Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro
+  Straits of Carquinez
+  Town of Francisca
+  Feather-beds furnished by nature
+  Mouth of the Sacramento
+  Islands
+  Delaware Tom
+  A man who has forgotten his mother tongue
+  Salmon of the Sacramento
+  Indian fishermen
+  Arrive at New Helvetia.
+
+_October 22_.--Having determined to make a trip to Nueva Helvetia by
+water, for the purpose of examining more particularly the upper portion
+of the bay and the Sacramento river, in conjunction with Mr. Larkin, we
+chartered a small open sail-boat for the excursion. The charter, to
+avoid disputes, was regularly drawn and signed, with all conditions
+specified. The price to be paid for a certain number of passengers was
+thirty-two dollars, and demurrage at the rate of twenty-five cents per
+hour for all delays ordered by the charter-party, on the trip upwards
+to Nueva Helvetia. The boat was to be ready at the most convenient
+landing at seven o'clock this morning, but when I called at the place
+appointed, with our baggage, the boat was not there. In an hour or two
+the skipper was found, but refused to comply with his contract. We
+immediately laid our grievance before the alcalde, who, after reading
+the papers and hearing the statements on both sides, ordered the
+skipper to perform what he had agreed to perform, to which decision he
+reluctantly assented. In order to facilitate matters, I paid the costs
+of the action myself, although the successful litigant in the suit.
+
+We left San Francisco about two o'clock P.M., and, crossing the mouth
+of the bay, boarded a Mexican schooner, a prize captured by the U.S.
+sloop-of-war Cyane, Captain Dupont, which had entered the bay this
+morning and anchored in front of Sausolito. The prize is commanded by
+Lieutenant Renshaw, a gallant officer of our navy. Our object in
+boarding the schooner was to learn the latest news, but she did not
+bring much. We met on board the schooner Lieutenant Hunter of the
+Portsmouth, a chivalrous officer, and Lieutenant Ruducoff, commanding
+the Russian brig previously mentioned, whose vessel, preparatory to
+sailing, was taking in water at Sausolito. Accepting of his pressing
+invitation, we visited the brig, and took a parting glass of wine with
+her gallant and gentlemanly commander.
+
+About five o'clock P.M., we proceeded on our voyage. At eight o'clock a
+dense fog hung over the bay, and, the ebb-tide being adverse to our
+progress, we were compelled to find a landing for our small and frail
+craft. This was not an easy matter, in the almost impenetrable
+darkness. As good-luck would have it, however, after we had groped
+about for some time, a light was discovered by our skipper. He rowed
+the boat towards it, but grounded. Hauling off, he made another attempt
+with better success, reaching within hailing distance of the shore. The
+light proceeded from a camp-fire of three Kanacka (Sandwich island)
+runaway sailors. As soon as they ascertained who we were and what we
+wanted, they stripped themselves naked, and, wading through the mud and
+water to the boat, took us on their shoulders, and carried us high and
+dry to the land. The boat, being thus lightened of her burden, was
+rowed farther up, and landed.
+
+The natives of the Sandwich islands (Kanackas, as they are called) are,
+without doubt, the most expert watermen in the world. Their
+performances in swimming and diving are so extraordinary, that they may
+almost be considered amphibious in their natures and instincts. Water
+appears to be as much their natural element as the land. They have
+straight black hair, good features, and an amiable and intelligent
+expression of countenance. Their complexion resembles that of a bright
+mulatto; and, in symmetrical proportions and muscular developments,
+they will advantageously compare with any race of men I have seen. The
+crews of many of the whale and merchant ships on this coast are partly
+composed of Kanackas, and they are justly esteemed as most valuable
+sailors.
+
+_October 23_.--The damp raw weather, auguring the near approach of the
+autumnal rains, continues. A drizzling mist fell on us during the
+night, and the clouds were not dissipated when we resumed our voyage
+this morning. Passing through the straits of San Pablo and San Pedro,
+we entered a division of the bay called the bay of San Pablo. Wind and
+tide being in our favour, we crossed this sheet of water, and
+afterwards entered and passed through the Straits of _Carquinez_. At
+these straits the waters of the bay are compressed within the breadth
+of a mile, for the distance of about two leagues. On the southern side
+the shore is hilly, and _canoned_ in some places. The northern shore is
+gentle, the hills and table-land sloping gradually down to the water.
+We landed at the bend of the Straits of _Carquinez_, and spent several
+hours in examining the country and soundings on the northern side.
+There is no timber here. The soil is covered with a growth of grass and
+white oats. The bend of the Straits of Carquinez, on the northern side,
+has been thought to be a favourable position for a commercial town. It
+has some advantages and some disadvantages, which it would be tedious
+for me now to detail.
+
+[Subsequently to this my first visit here, a town of extensive
+dimensions has been laid off by Gen. Vallejo and Mr. Semple, the
+proprietors, under the name of "Francisca." It fronts for two or three
+miles on the "_Soeson_," the upper division of the Bay of San
+Francisco, and the Straits of Carquinez. A ferry has also been
+established, which crosses regularly from shore to shore, conveying
+travellers over the bay. I crossed, myself and horses, here in June,
+1847, when on my return to the United States. Lots had then been
+offered to settlers on favourable conditions, and preparations, I
+understand, were making for the erection of a number of houses.]
+
+About sunset we resumed our voyage. The Wind having lulled, we
+attempted to stem the adverse tide by the use of oars, but the ebb of
+the tide was stronger than the propelling force of our oars. Soon, in
+spite of all our exertions, we found ourselves drifting rapidly
+backwards, and, after two or three hours of hard labour in the dark, we
+were at last so fortunate as to effect a landing in a cove on the
+southern side of the straits, having retrograded several miles. In the
+cove there is a small sandy beach, upon which the waves have drifted,
+and deposited a large quantity of oat-straw, and feathers shed by the
+millions of water-fowls which sport upon the bay. On this downy deposit
+furnished by nature we spread our blankets, and slept soundly.
+
+_October 24_.--We proceeded on our voyage at daylight, coasting along
+the southern shore of the _Soeson_. About nine o'clock we landed on a
+marshy plain, and cooked breakfast. A range of mountains bounds this
+plain, the base of which is several miles from the shore of the bay.
+These mountains, although of considerable elevation, exhibit signs of
+fertility to their summits. On the plain, numerous herds of wild cattle
+were grazing. About two o'clock, P.M., we entered the mouth of the
+Sacramento. The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers empty into the Bay of
+San Francisco at the same point, about sixty miles from the Pacific,
+and by numerous mouths or _sloughs_ as they are here called. These
+sloughs wind through an immense timbered swamp, and constitute a
+terraqueous labyrinth of such intricacy, that unskilful and
+inexperienced navigators have been lost for many days in it, and some,
+I have been told, have perished, never finding their way out. A range
+of low sloping hills approach the Sacramento a short distance above its
+mouth, on the left-hand side as you ascend, and run parallel with the
+stream several miles. The banks of the river, and several large islands
+which we passed during the day, are timbered with sycamore, oak, and a
+variety of smaller trees and shrubbery. Numerous grape-vines, climbing
+over the trees, and loaded down with a small and very acid fruit, give
+to the forest a tangled appearance. The islands of the Sacramento are
+all low, and subject to overflow in the spring of the year. The soil of
+the river bottom, including the islands, is covered with rank
+vegetation, a certain evidence of its fertility. The water, at this
+season, is perfectly limpid, and, although the tide ebbs and flows more
+than a hundred miles above the mouth of the river, it is fresh and
+sweet. The channel of the Sacramento is remarkably free from snags and
+other obstructions to navigation. A more beautiful and placid stream of
+water I never saw.
+
+At twelve o'clock at night, the ebb-tide being so strong that we found
+ourselves drifting backwards, with some difficulty we effected a
+landing on one of the islands, clearing a way through the tangled brush
+and vines with our hatchets and knives. Lighting a fire, we bivouacked
+until daylight.
+
+_October 25_.--Continuing our voyage, we landed, about nine o'clock,
+A.M., at an Indian _rancheria_, situated on the bank of the river. An
+old Indian, his wife, and two or three children, were all the present
+occupants of this _rancheria_. The woman was the most miserable and
+emaciated object I ever beheld. She was probably a victim of the
+"sweat-house." Surrounding the _rancheria_ were two or three acres of
+ground, planted with maize, beans, and melons. Purchasing a quantity of
+water and musk-melons, we re-embarked and pursued our voyage. As we
+ascended the stream, the banks became more elevated, the country on
+both sides opening into vast savannas, dotted occasionally with parks
+of evergreen oak.
+
+The tide turning against us again about eleven or twelve o'clock, we
+landed at an encampment of Walla-Walla Indians, a portion of the party
+previously referred to, and reported to have visited California for
+hostile purposes. Among them was a Delaware Indian, known as "Delaware
+Tom," who speaks English as fluently as any Anglo-Saxon, and is a most
+gallant and honourable Indian. Several of the party, a majority of whom
+were women and children, were sick with chills and fever. The men were
+engaged in hunting and jerking deer and elk meat. Throwing our hooks,
+baited with fresh meat, into the river, we soon drew out small fish
+enough for dinner.
+
+The specimens of Walla-Wallas at this encampment are far superior to
+the Indians of California in features, figure, and intelligence. Their
+complexion is much lighter, and their features more regular,
+expressive, and pleasing. Men and women were clothed in dressed skins.
+The men were armed with rifles.
+
+At sunset we put our little craft in motion again, and at one o'clock
+at night landed near the cabin of a German emigrant named Schwartz, six
+miles below the _embarcadero_ of New Helvetia. The cabin is about
+twenty feet in length by twelve in breadth, constructed of a light rude
+frame, shingled with _tule_. After gaining admission, we found a fire
+blazing in the centre of the dwelling on the earth-floor, and suspended
+over us were as many salmon, taken from the Sacramento, as could be
+placed in position to imbibe the preservative qualities of the smoke.
+
+Our host, Mr. Schwartz, is one of those eccentric human phenomena
+rarely met with, who, wandering from their own nation into foreign
+countries, forget their own language without acquiring any other. He
+speaks a tongue (language it cannot be called) peculiar to himself, and
+scarcely intelligible. It is a mixture, in about equal parts, of
+German, English, French, Spanish, and _rancheria_ Indian, a compounded
+polyglot or lingual _pi_--each syllable of a word sometimes being
+derived from a different language. Stretching ourselves on the benches
+surrounding the fire, so as to avoid the drippings from the pendent
+salmon, we slept until morning.
+
+_October 26_.--Mr. Schwartz provided us with a breakfast of fried
+salmon and some fresh milk. Coffee, sugar, and bread we brought with
+us, so that we enjoyed a luxurious repast.
+
+Near the house was a shed containing some forty or fifty barrels of
+pickled salmon, but the fish, from their having been badly put up, were
+spoiled. Mr. Schwartz attempted to explain the particular causes of
+this, but I could not understand him. The salmon are taken with seines
+dragged across the channel of the river by Indians in canoes. On the
+bank of the river the Indians were eating their breakfast, which
+consisted of a large fresh salmon, roasted in the ashes or embers, and
+a kettle of _atole_, made of acorn-meal. The salmon was four or five
+feet in length, and, when taken out of the fire and cut open, presented
+a most tempting appearance. The Indians were all nearly naked, and most
+of them, having been wading in the water at daylight to set their
+seines, were shivering with the cold whilst greedily devouring their
+morning meal.
+
+We reached the _embarcadero_ of New Helvetia about eleven o'clock,
+A.M., and, finding there a wagon, we placed our baggage in it, and
+walked to the fort, about two and a half miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Disastrous news from the south
+  Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey
+  Call for volunteers
+  Volunteer our services
+  Leave New Helvetia
+  Swimming the Sacramento
+  First fall of rain
+  Beautiful and romantic valley
+  Precipitous mountains
+  Deserted house
+  Arable land of California
+  Fattening qualities of the acorn
+  Lost in the Coast Mountains
+  Strange Indians
+  Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread
+  Indian guide
+  Laguna
+  Rough dialogue
+  Hunters' camp
+  "Old Greenwood"
+  Grisly bear meat
+  Greenwood's account of himself
+  His opinion of the Indians and Spaniards
+  Retrace our steps
+  Severe storm
+  Nappa valley
+  Arrive at Sonoma
+  More rain
+  Arrive at San Francisco
+  Return to New Helvetia.
+
+
+I remained at the fort from the 27th to the 30th of October. On the
+28th, Mr. Reed, whom I have before mentioned as belonging to the rear
+emigrating party, arrived here. He left his party on Mary's River, and
+in company with one man crossed the desert and the mountains. He was
+several days without provisions, and, when he arrived at Johnson's, was
+so much emaciated and exhausted by fatigue and famine, that he could
+scarcely walk. His object was to procure provisions immediately, and to
+transport them with pack-mules over the mountains for the relief of the
+suffering emigrants behind. He had lost all of his cattle, and had been
+compelled to _cache_ two of his wagons and most of his property.
+Captain Sutter generously furnished the requisite quantity of mules and
+horses, with Indian vaqueros, and jerked meat and flour. This is the
+second expedition for the relief of the emigrants he has fitted out
+since our arrival in the country. Ex-governor Boggs and family reached
+Sutter's Fort to-day.
+
+On the evening of the 28th, a courier arrived with letters from Colonel
+Fremont, now at Monterey. The substance of the intelligence received by
+the courier was, that a large force of Californians (varying, according
+to different reports, from five to fifteen hundred strong) had met the
+marines and sailors, four hundred strong, under the command of Captain
+Mervine, of the U.S. frigate Savannah, who had landed at San Pedro for
+the purpose of marching to Los Angeles, and had driven Captain Mervine
+and his force back to the ship, with the loss, in killed, of six men.
+That the towns of Angeles and Santa Barbara had been taken by the
+insurgents, and the American garrisons there had either been captured
+or had made their escape by retreating. What had become of them was
+unknown.[2] Colonel Fremont, who I before mentioned had sailed with a
+party of one hundred and eighty volunteers from San Francisco to San
+Pedro, or San Diego, for the purpose of co-operating with Commodore
+Stockton, after having been some time at sea, had put into Monterey and
+landed his men, and his purpose now was to increase his force and mount
+them, and to proceed by land for Los Angeles.
+
+  [2] The garrison under Captain Gillespie, at Los Angeles, capitulated.
+      The garrison at Santa Barbara, under Lieutenant Talbot, marched
+      out in defiance of the enemy, and after suffering many hardships
+      arrived in safety at Monterey.
+
+On the receipt of this intelligence, I immediately drew up a paper,
+which was signed by myself, Messrs Reed, Jacob, Lippincott, and
+Grayson, offering our services as volunteers, and our exertions to
+raise a force of emigrants and Indians which would be a sufficient
+reinforcement to Colonel Fremont. This paper was addressed to Mr. Kern,
+the commandant of Fort Sacramento, and required his sanction. The next
+morning (29th) he accepted of our proposal, and the labour of raising
+the volunteers and of procuring the necessary clothing and supplies for
+them and the Indians was apportioned.
+
+It commenced raining on the night of the twenty-eighth, and the rain
+fell heavily and steadily until twelve o'clock, P.M., on the
+twenty-ninth. This is the first fall of rain since March last. About
+one o'clock, P.M., the clouds cleared away and the weather and
+temperature were delightful.
+
+About twelve o'clock, on the 30th, accompanied by Mr. Grayson, I left
+New Helvetia. We crossed the Sacramento at the _embarcadero_, swimming
+our horses, and passing ourselves over in a small canoe. The method of
+swimming horses over so broad a stream as the Sacramento is as follows.
+A light canoe or "dug-out" is manned by three persons, one at the bow
+one at the stern and one in the centre; those at the bow and stern have
+paddles, and propel and steer the craft. The man in the centre holds
+the horses one on each side, keeping their heads out of water. When the
+horses are first forced into the deep water, they struggle
+prodigiously, and sometimes upset the canoe; but, when the canoe gets
+fairly under way, they cease their resistance, but snort loudly at
+every breath to clear their mouths and nostrils of the water.
+
+Proceeding ten miles over a level plain, we overtook a company of
+emigrants bound for Nappa valley, and encamped with them for the night
+on Puta creek, a tributary of the Sacramento. Five of the seven or
+eight men belonging to the company enrolled their names as volunteers.
+The grass on the western side of the Sacramento is very rank and of an
+excellent quality.
+
+It commenced raining about two o'clock on the morning of the 31st, and
+continued to rain and mist all day. We crossed from Puta to Cache
+creek, reaching the residence of Mr. Gordon (25 miles) about three
+o'clock P.M. Here we enrolled several additional emigrants in our list
+of volunteers, and then travelled fifteen miles up the creek to a small
+log-house, occupied temporarily by some of the younger members of the
+family of Mr. Gordon, who emigrated from Jackson county, Mo., this
+year, and by Mrs. Grayson. Here we remained during the night, glad to
+find a shelter and a fire, for we were drenched to our skins.
+
+On the morning of the 1st of November the sun shone out warm and
+pleasant. The birds were singing, chattering, and flitting from tree to
+tree, through the romantic and picturesque valley where we had slept
+during the night. The scenery and its adjuncts were so charming and
+enticing that I recommenced my travels with reluctance. No scenery can
+be more beautiful than that of the small valleys of California.
+Ascending the range of elevated mountains which border the Cache creek,
+we had a most extensive view of the broad plain of the Sacramento,
+stretching with islands and bells of limber far away to the south as
+the eye could penetrate. The gorges and summits of these mountains are
+timbered with largo pines, firs, and cedars, with a smaller growth of
+magnolias, manzanitas, hawthorns, etc., etc. Travelling several miles
+over a level plateau, we descended into a beautiful valley, richly
+carpeted with grass and timbered with evergreen oak. Proceeding across
+this three or four miles, we rose another range of mountains, and,
+travelling a league along the summit ridge, we descended through a
+crevice in a sleep rocky precipice, just sufficient in breadth to admit
+the passage of our animals. Our horses were frequently compelled to
+slide or leap down nearly perpendicular rocks or stairs, until we
+finally, just after sunset, reached the bottom of the mountain, and
+found ourselves in another level and most fertile and picturesque
+valley.
+
+We knew that in this valley, of considerable extent, there was a house
+known as "Barnett's," where we expected to find quarters for the night.
+There were numerous trails of cattle, horses, deer, and other wild
+animals, crossing each other in every direction through the live
+oak-timber. We followed on the largest of the cattle trails until it
+became so blind that we could not see it. Taking another, we did the
+same, and the result was the same; another and another with no better
+success. We then shouted so loud that our voices were echoed and
+re-echoed by the surrounding mountains, hoping, if there were any
+inhabitants in the valley, that they would respond to us. There was no
+response--all was silent when the sound of our voices died away in the
+gorges and ravines; and at ten o'clock at night we encamped under the
+wide-spreading branches of an oak, having travelled about 40 miles.
+Striking a fire and heaping upon it a large quantity of wood, which
+blazed brightly, displaying the Gothic shapes of the surrounding oaks,
+we picketed our animals, spread our blankets, and slept soundly.
+
+It rained several hours during the night, and in the morning a dense
+fog filled the valley. Saddling our animals, we searched along the foot
+of the next range of mountains for a trail, but could find none.
+Returning to our camp, we proceeded up the valley, and struck a trail,
+by following which two miles, we came to the house (Barnett's). The
+door was ajar, and entering the dwelling we found it tenantless. The
+hearth was cold, and the ashes in the jambs of the large fire-place
+were baked. In the corners of the building there were some frames, upon
+which beds had been once spread. The house evidently had been abandoned
+by its former occupants for some time. The prolific mothers of several
+families of the swinish species, with their squealing progenies,
+gathered around us, in full expectation, doubtless, of the dispensation
+of an extra ration, which we had not to give. Having eaten nothing but
+a crust of bread for 24 hours, the inclination of our appetites was
+strong to draw upon them for a ration; but for old acquaintance' sake,
+and because they were the foreshadowing of the "manifest destiny," they
+were permitted to pass without molestation. There were two or three
+small inclosures near the house, where corn and wheat had been planted
+and harvested this year; but none of the product of the harvest could
+be found in the empty house, or on the place. Dismounting from our
+horses at a limpid spring-branch near the house, we slaked our thirst,
+and made our hydropathical breakfast from its cool and delicious water.
+
+Although the trail of the valley did not run in our course, still,
+under the expectation that it would soon take another direction, we
+followed it, passing over a fertile soil, sufficiently timbered and
+watered by several small streams. The quantity of arable land in
+California, I believe, is much greater than has generally been supposed
+from the accounts of the country given by travellers who have visited
+only the parts on the Pacific, and some few of the missions. Most of
+the mountain valleys between the Sierra Nevada and the coast are
+exuberantly fertile, and finely watered, and will produce crops of all
+kinds, while the hills are covered with oats and grass of the most
+nutritious qualities, for the sustenance of cattle, horses, and hogs.
+The acorns which fall from the oaks are, of themselves, a rich annual
+product for the fattening of hogs; and during the period of transition
+(four or five weeks after the rains commence falling) from the dry
+grass to the fresh growth, horses, mules, and even horned cattle mostly
+subsist and fatten upon these large and oleaginous nuts.
+
+We left the valley in a warm and genial sunshine, about 11 o'clock, and
+commenced ascending another high mountain, timbered as those I have
+previously described. When we reached the summit, we were enveloped in
+clouds, and the rain was falling copiously, and a wintry blast drove
+the cold element to our skins. Crossing this mountain three or four
+miles, we descended its sleep sides, and entered another beautiful and
+romantic hollow, divided as it were into various apartments by short
+ranges of low conical hills, covered to their summits with grass and
+wild oats. The grass and other vegetation on the level bottom are very
+rank, indicating a soil of the most prolific qualities. In winding
+through this valley, we met four Indians on foot, armed with long bows,
+and arrows of corresponding weight and length, weapons that I have not
+previously seen among the Indians. Their complexions were lighter than
+those of the _rancheria_ Indians of California. They evidently belonged
+to some more northern tribe. We stopped them to make inquiries, but
+they seemed to know nothing of the country, nor could we learn from
+them from whence they came or where they were going. They were clothed
+in dressed skins, and two of them were highly rouged.
+
+Ascending and descending gradually over some low hills, we entered
+another circular valley, through which flows a stream, the waters of
+which, judging from its channel, at certain seasons are broad and deep.
+The ground, from the rains that have recently fallen and are now
+falling, is very soft, and we had difficulty in urging our tired
+animals across this valley. We soon discovered fresh cattle signs, and
+afterwards a large herd grazing near the stream. Farther on, we saw
+five old and miserably emaciated Indian women, gathering grass-seed for
+bread. This process is performed with two baskets, one shaped like a
+round shield, and the other having a basin and handle. With the shield
+the lop of the grass is brushed, and the seed by the motion is thrown
+into the deep basket held in the other hand. The five women appeared at
+a distance like so many mowers cutting down the grass of a meadow.
+These women could give us no satisfaction in response to inquiries, but
+pointed over the river indicating that we should there find the _casa_
+and _rancheria_. They then continued their work with as much zeal and
+industry as if their lives were dependent upon the proceeds of their
+labour, and I suppose they were.
+
+Crossing the river, we struck a trail which led us to the _casa_ and
+_rancheria_, about two miles distant. The _casa_ was a small adobe
+building, about twelve feet square, and was locked up. Finding that
+admission was not to be gained here, we hailed at the _rancheria_, and
+presently some dozen squalid and naked men, women, and children, made
+their appearance. We inquired for the _mayor domo_, or overseer. The
+chief speaker signified that he was absent, and that he did not expect
+hint to return until several suns rose and set. We then signified we
+were hungry, and very soon a loaf made of pulverized acorns, mingled
+with wild fruit of some kind, was brought to us with a basket of water.
+These Indians manufacture small baskets which are impervious to water,
+and they are used as basins to drink from, and for other purposes.
+
+I knew that we had been travelling out of our course all day, and it
+was now three o'clock, P.M. Rain and mist had succeeded each other, and
+the sun was hidden from us by dark and threatening masses of clouds. We
+had no compass with us, and could not determine the course to Nappa
+Valley or Sonoma. Believing that the Indian would have some knowledge
+of the latter place, we made him comprehend that we wished to go there,
+and inquired the route. He pointed in a direction which he signified
+would take us to Sonoma. We pointed in another course, which it seemed
+to us was the right one. But he persisted in asserting that he was
+right. After some further talk, for the shirt on my back he promised to
+guide us, and, placing a ragged skin on one of our horses, he mounted
+the animal and led the way over the next range of hills. The rain soon
+poured down so hard upon the poor fellow's bare skin, that he begged
+permission to return, to which we would not consent; but, out of
+compassion to him, I took off my over-coat, with which he covered his
+swarthy hide, and seemed highly delighted with the shelter from the
+pitiless storm it afforded him, or with the supposition that I intended
+to present it to him.
+
+Crossing several elevated and rocky hills, just before sunset, we had a
+view of a large timbered valley and a sheet of water, the extent of
+which we could not compass with the eye, on account of the thickness of
+the atmosphere. When we came in sight of the water, the Indian uttered
+various exclamations of pleasure; and, although I had felt but little
+faith in him as a pilot from the first, I began now to think that we
+were approaching the Bay of San Francisco. Descending into the valley,
+we travelled along a small stream two or three miles, and were
+continuing on in the twilight, when we heard the tinkling of a cow-bell
+on the opposite side of the stream. Certain, from this sound, that
+there must be an encampment near, I halted and hallooed at the top of
+my voice. The halloo called forth a similar response, with an
+interrogation in English, "Who the d----l are you--Spaniards or
+Americans?" "Americans." "Show yourselves, then, d----n you, and let us
+see the colour of your hide," was the answer.
+
+"Tell us where we can cross the stream, and you shall soon see us," was
+our reply.
+
+"Ride back and follow the sound of my voice, and be d----d to you, and
+you can cross the stream with a deer's jump."
+
+Accordingly, following the sound of the voice of this rough colloquist,
+who shouted repeatedly, we rode back in the dark several hundred yards,
+and, plunging into the stream, the channel of which was deep, we gained
+the other side, where we found three men standing ready to receive us.
+We soon discovered them to be a party of professional hunters, or
+trappers, at the head of which was Mr. Greenwood, a famed mountaineer,
+commonly known as "Old Greenwood." They invited us to their camp,
+situated across a small opening in the timber about half a mile
+distant. Having unsaddled our tired animals and turned them loose to
+graze for the night, we placed our baggage under the cover of a small
+tent, and, taking our seats by the huge camp fire, made known as far as
+was expedient our business. We soon ascertained that we had ridden the
+entire day (about 40 miles) directly out of our course to Nappa Valley
+and Sonoma, and that the Indian's information was all wrong. We were
+now near the shore of a large lake, called the _Laguna_ by
+Californians, some fifty or sixty miles in length, which lake is
+situated about sixty or seventy miles north of the Bay of San
+Francisco; consequently, to-morrow we shall be compelled to retrace our
+steps and find the trail that leads from Harriett's house to Nappa,
+which escaped us this morning. We received such directions, however,
+from Mr. Greenwood, that we could not fail to find it.
+
+We found in the camp, much to our gratification after a long fast, an
+abundance of fat grisly bear-meat and the most delicious and tender
+deer-meat. The camp looked like a butcher's stall. The pot filled with
+bear-flesh was boiled again and again, and the choice pieces of the
+tender venison were roasting, and disappearing with singular rapidity
+for a long time. Bread there was none of course. Such a delicacy is
+unknown to the mountain trappers, nor is it much desired by them.
+
+The hunting party consisted of Mr. Greenwood, Mr. Turner, Mr. Adams,
+and three sons of Mr. G., one grown, and the other two boys 10 or 12
+years of age, half-bred Indians, the mother being a Crow. One of these
+boys is named "Governor Boggs," after ex-governor Boggs of Missouri, an
+old friend of the father. Mr. Greenwood, or "Old Greenwood," as he is
+familiarly called, according to his own statement, is 83 years of age,
+and has been a mountain trapper between 40 and 50 years. He lived among
+the Crow Indians, where he married his wife, between thirty and forty
+years. He is about six feet in height, raw-boned and spare in flesh,
+but muscular, and, notwithstanding his old age, walks with all the
+erectness and elasticity of youth. His dress was of tanned buckskin,
+and from its appearance one would suppose its antiquity to be nearly
+equal to the age of its wearer. It had probably never been off his body
+since he first put it on. "I am," said he, "an old man--eighty-three
+years--it is a long time to live;--eighty-three years last--. I have
+seen all the Injun varmints of the Rocky Mountains,--have fout
+them--lived with them. I have many children--I don't know how many,
+they are scattered; but my wife was a Crow. The Crows are a brave
+nation,--the bravest of all the Injuns; they fight like the white man;
+they don't kill you in the dark like the Black-foot varmint, and then
+take your scalp and run, the cowardly reptiles. Eighty-three years
+last----; and yet old Greenwood could handle the rifle as well as the
+best on 'em, but for this infernal humour in my eyes, caught three
+years ago in bringing the emigrators over the _de_-sart." (A circle of
+scarlet surrounded his weeping eyeballs.) "I can't see jist now as well
+as I did fifty years ago, but I can always bring the game or the
+slinking and skulking Injun. I have jist come over the mountains from
+Sweetwater with the emigrators as pilot, living upon bacon, bread,
+milk, and sich like mushy stuff. It don't agree with me; it never will
+agree with a man of my age, eighty-three last ----; that is a long time
+to live. I thought I would take a small hunt to get a little exercise
+for my old bones, and some good fresh meat. The grisly bear, fat deer,
+and poultry and fish--them are such things as a man should eat. I came
+up here, where I knew there was plenty. I was here twenty years ago,
+before any white man see this lake and the rich land about it. It's
+filled with big fish. That's beer-springs here, better than them in the
+Rocky Mountains; thar's a mountain of solid brimstone, and thar's mines
+of gold and silver, all of which I know'd many years ago, and I can
+show them to you if you will go with me in the morning. These
+black-skinned Spaniards have rebelled again. Wall, they can make a
+fuss, d--m 'em, and have revolutions every year, but they can't fight.
+It's no use to go after 'em, unless when you ketch 'em you kill 'em.
+They won't stand an' fight like men, an' when they can't fight longer
+give up; but the skared varmints run away and then make another fuss,
+d--m 'em." Such was the discourse of our host.
+
+The camp consisted of two small tents, which had probably been obtained
+from the emigrants. They were pitched so as to face each other, and
+between them there was a large pile of blazing logs. On the trees
+surrounding the camp were stretched the skins of various animals which
+had been killed in the hunt; some preserved for their hides, others for
+the fur. Bear-meat and venison enough for a winter's supply were
+hanging from the limbs. The swearing of Turner, a man of immense frame
+and muscular power, during our evening's conversation, was almost
+terrific. I had heard mountain swearing before, but his went far beyond
+all former examples. He could do all the swearing for our army in
+Mexico, and then have a surplus.
+
+The next morning (Nov. 3rd), after partaking of a hearty breakfast, and
+suspending from our saddles a sufficient supply of venison and
+bear-meat for two days' journey, we started back on our own trail. We
+left our miserable Indian pilot at his _rancheria_. I gave him the
+shirt from my back, out of compassion for his sufferings--he well
+deserved a _dressing_ of another kind. It rained all day, and, when we
+reached Barnett's (the empty house) after four o'clock, P.M., the black
+masses of clouds which hung over the valley portended a storm so
+furious, that we thought it prudent to take shelter under a roof for
+the night. Securing our animals in one of the inclosures, we encamped
+in the deserted dwelling. The storm soon commenced, and raged and
+roared with a fierceness and strength rarely witnessed. The hogs and
+pigs came squealing about the door for admission; and the cattle and
+horses in the valley, terrified by the violence of elemental battle,
+ran backwards and forwards, bellowing and snorting. In comfortable
+quarters, we roasted and enjoyed our bear-meat and venison, and left
+the wind, rain, lightning, and thunder to play their pranks as best
+suited them, which they did all night.
+
+On the morning of the fourth, we found the trail described to us by Mr.
+Greenwood, and, crossing a ridge of mountains, descended into the
+valley of Nappa creek, which empties into the Bay of San Francisco just
+below the Straits of Carquinez. This is a most beautiful and fertile
+valley, and is already occupied by several American settlers. Among the
+first who established themselves here is Mr. Yount, who soon after
+erected a flouring-mill and saw-mill. These have been in operation
+several years. Before reaching Mr. Yount's settlement we passed a
+saw-mill more recently erected, by Dr. Bale. There seems to be an
+abundance of pine and red-wood (a species of fir), in the _canadas_. No
+lumber can be superior for building purposes than that sawed from the
+red-wood. The trees are of immense size, straight, free from knots and
+twists, and the wood is soft, and easily cut with plane and saw.
+Arriving at the residence of Dr. Bale, in Nappa Valley, we were
+hospitably entertained by him with a late breakfast of coffee, boiled
+eggs, steaks, and _tortillas_, served up in American style. Leaving
+Nappa, after travelling down it some ten or twelve miles, we crossed
+another range of hills or mountains, and reached Sonoma after dark, our
+clothing thoroughly drenched with the rain, which, with intermissions,
+had fallen the whole day. I put up at the same quarters as when here
+before. The house was covered with a dilapidated thatch, and the rain
+dripped through it, not leaving a dry spot on the floor of the room
+where we slept. But there was an advantage in this--the inundation of
+water had completely discomfited the army of fleas that infested the
+building when we were here before.
+
+It rained incessantly on the fifth. Col. Russell arrived at Sonoma
+early in the morning, having arrived from San Francisco last night.
+Procuring a boat belonging to Messrs. Howard and Mellus, lying at the
+_embarcadero_, I left for San Francisco, but, owing to the storm and
+contrary winds, did not arrive there until the morning of the seventh,
+being two nights and a day in the creek, and _churning_ on the bay.
+Purchasing a quantity of clothing, and other supplies for volunteers, I
+sailed early on the morning of the eighth for New Helvetia, in a boat
+belonging to the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, manned by U.S. sailors, under
+the command of Midshipman Byres, a native of Maysville, Ky. We encamped
+that night at the head of "Soeson," having sailed about fifty miles in
+a severe storm of wind and rain. The waves frequently dashed entirely
+over our little craft. The rain continued during the ninth, and we
+encamped at night about the mouth of the Sacramento. On the night of
+the tenth we encamped at "Meritt's camp," the rain still falling, and
+the river rising rapidly, rendering navigation up-stream impossible,
+except with the aid of the tide. On the night of the eleventh we
+encamped fifteen miles below New Helvetia, still raining. On the
+morning of the twelfth the clouds cleared away, and the sun burst out
+warm and spring-like. After having been exposed to the rain for ten or
+twelve days, without having the clothing upon me once dry, the sight of
+the sun, and the influence of his beams, were cheering and most
+agreeable. We arrived at New Helvetia about twelve o'clock.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Leave New Helvetia
+  Pleasant weather
+  Meet Indian volunteers
+  Tule boats
+  Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians
+  Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster
+  Capture of Thomas O. Larkin
+  Reconnaissance
+  San Juan Bautista
+  Neglect of the dead
+  Large herds of Cattle
+  Join Col. Fremont.
+
+
+On my arrival at New Helvetia, I found there Mr. Jacob. Mr. Reed had
+not yet returned from the mountains. Nothing had been heard from Mr.
+Lippincott, or Mr. Grayson, since I left the latter at Sonoma. An
+authorized agent of Col. Fremont had arrived at the fort the day that I
+left it, with power to take the _caballada_ of public horses, and to
+enroll volunteers for the expedition to the south. He had left two or
+three days before my arrival, taking with him all the horses and
+trappings suitable for service, and all the men who had previously
+_rendezvoused_ at the fort, numbering about sixty, as I understood. At
+my request messengers were sent by Mr. Kern, commandant of the fort,
+and by Captain Sutter, to the Indian chiefs on the San Joaquin River
+and its tributaries, to meet me at the most convenient points on the
+trail, with such warriors of their tribes as chose to volunteer as
+soldiers of the United States, and perform military service during the
+campaign. I believed that they would be useful as scouts and spies. On
+the 14th and 15th eight men (emigrants who had just arrived in the
+country, and had been enrolled at Johnson's settlement by Messrs. Reed
+and Jacob) arrived at the fort; and on the morning of the 16th, with
+these, we started to join Colonel Fremont, supposed to be at Monterey;
+and we encamped at night on the Coscumne River.
+
+The weather is now pleasant. We are occasionally drenched with a shower
+of rain, after which the sun shines warm and bright; the fresh grass is
+springing up, and the birds sing and chatter in the groves and thickets
+as we pass through them. I rode forward, on the morning of the 17th, to
+the Mickelemes River (twenty-five miles from the Coscumne), where I met
+Antonio, an Indian chief, with twelve warriors, who had assembled hero
+for the purpose of joining us. The names of the warriors were as
+follows;--Santiago, Masua, Kiubu, Tocoso, Nonelo, Michael, Weala,
+Arkell, Nicolas, Heel, Kasheano, Estephen. Our party coming up in the
+afternoon, we encamped here for the day, in order to give the Indians
+time to make further preparations for the march. On the 18th we met, at
+the ford of the San Joaquin River, another party of eighteen Indians,
+including their chiefs. Their names were--Jose Jesus, Filipe,
+Ray-mundo, and Carlos, chiefs; Huligario, Bonefasio, Francisco,
+Nicolas, Pablo, Feliciano, San Antonio, Polinario, Manuel, Graviano,
+Salinordio, Romero, and Merikeeldo, warriors. The chiefs and some of
+the warriors of these parties were partially clothed, but most of them
+were naked, except a small garment around the loins. They were armed
+with bows and arrows. We encamped with our sable companions on the east
+bank of the San Joaquin.
+
+The next morning (Nov. 19), the river being too high to ford, we
+constructed, by the aid of the Indians, tule-boats, upon which our
+baggage was ferried over the stream. The tule-boat consists of bundles
+of tule firmly hound together with willow withes. When completed, in
+shape it is not unlike a small keel-boat. The buoyancy of one of these
+craft is surprising. Six men, as many as could sit upon the deck, were
+passed over, in the largest of our three boats, at a time. The boats
+were towed backwards and forwards by Indian swimmers--one at the bow,
+and one at the stern as steersman, and two on each side as propellers.
+The poor fellows, when they came out of the cold water, trembled as if
+attacked with an ague. We encamped near the house of Mr. Livermore
+(previously described), where, after considerable difficulty, I
+obtained sufficient beef for supper, Mr. L. being absent. Most of the
+Indians did not get into camp until a late hour of the night, and some
+of them not until morning. They complained very much of sore feet, and
+wanted horses to ride, which I promised them as soon as they reached
+the Pueblo de San Jose.
+
+About ten o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we slaughtered a beef in
+the hills between Mr. Livermore's and the mission of San Jose; and,
+leaving the hungry party to regale themselves upon it and then follow
+on, I proceeded immediately to the Pueblo de San Jose to make further
+arrangements, reaching that place just after sunset. On the 21st I
+procured clothing for the Indians, which, when they arrived with Mr.
+Jacob in the afternoon, was distributed among them.
+
+On my arrival at the Pueblo, I found the American population there much
+excited by intelligence just received of the capture on the 15th,
+between Monterey and the mission of San Juan, of Thos. O. Larkin, Esq.,
+late U.S. Consul in California, by a party of Californians, and of an
+engagement between the same Californians and a party of Americans
+escorting a _caballada_ of 400 horses to Colonel Fremont's camp in
+Monterey. In this affair three Americans were killed, viz.: Capt.
+Burroughs, Capt. Foster, and Mr. Eames, late of St. Louis, Mo. The
+mission of San Juan lies on the road between the Pueblo de San Jose and
+Monterey, about fifty miles from the former place, and thirty from the
+latter. The skirmish took place ten miles south of San Juan, near the
+Monterey road. I extract the following account of this affair from a
+journal of his captivity published by Mr. Larkin:--
+
+"On the 10th of November, from information received of the sickness of
+my family in San Francisco, where they had gone to escape the expected
+revolutionary troubles in Monterey, and from letters from Captain
+Montgomery requesting my presence respecting some stores for the
+Portsmouth, I, with one servant, left Monterey for San Francisco,
+knowing that for one month no Californian forces had been within 100
+miles of us. That night I put up at the house of Don Joaquin Gomez,
+sending my servant to San Juan, six miles beyond, to request Mr. J.
+Thompson to wait for me, as he was on the road for San Francisco. About
+midnight I was aroused from my bed by the noise made by ten
+Californians (unshaved and unwashed for months, being in the mountains)
+rushing into my chamber with guns, swords, pistols, and torches in
+their hands. I needed but a moment to be fully awake and know my exact
+situation; the first cry was, 'Como estamos, Senor Consul.' 'Vamos,
+Senor Larkin.' At my bedside were several letters that I had re-read
+before going to bed. On dressing myself, while my captors were saddling
+my horse, I assorted these letters, and put them into different
+pockets. After taking my own time to dress and arrange my valise, we
+started, and rode to a camp of seventy or eighty men on the banks of
+the Monterey River; there each officer and principal person passed the
+time of night with me, and a remark or two. The commandante took me on
+one side, and informed me that his people demanded that I should write
+to San Juan, to the American captain of volunteers, saying that I had
+left Monterey to visit the distressed families of the river, and
+request or demand that twenty men should meet me before daylight, that
+I could station them, before my return to town, in a manner to protect
+these families. The natives, he said, were determined on the act being
+accomplished. I at first endeavoured to reason with him on the infamy
+and the impossibility of the deed, but to no avail; he said my life
+depended on the letter; that he was willing, nay, anxious to preserve
+my life as an old acquaintance, but could not control his people in
+this affair. From argument I came to a refusal; he advised, urged, and
+demanded. At this period an officer called out * * * * (Come here,
+those who are named.) I then said, 'In this manner you may act and
+threaten night by night; my life on such condition is of no value or
+pleasure to me. I am by accident your prisoner--make the most of
+me--write, I will not; shoot as you see fit, and I am done talking on
+the subject.' I left him, and went to the camp fire. For a half-hour or
+more there was some commotion around me, when all disturbance subsided.
+
+"At daylight we started, with a flag flying and a drum beating, and
+travelled eight or ten miles, when we camped in a low valley or hollow.
+There they caught with the lasso three or four head of cattle belonging
+to the nearest rancho, and breakfasted. The whole day their outriders
+rode in every direction, on the look-out, to see if the American
+company left the mission of San Juan, or Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont
+left Monterey; they also rode to all the neighbouring ranches, and
+forced the rancheros to join them. At one o'clock, they began their
+march with one hundred and thirty men (and two or three hundred extra
+horses); they marched in four single files, occupying four positions,
+myself under charge of an officer and five or six men in the centre.
+Their plan of operation for the night was, to rush into San Juan ten or
+fifteen men, who were to retreat, under the expectation that the
+Americans would follow them, in which case the whole party outside was
+to cut them off. I was to be retained in the centre of the party. Ten
+miles south of the mission, they encountered eight or ten Americans, a
+part of whom retreated into a low ground covered with oaks, the others
+returned to the house of Senor Gomez, to alarm their companions. For
+over one hour the hundred and thirty Californians surrounded the six or
+eight Americans, occasionally giving and receiving shots. During this
+period, I was several times requested, then commanded, to go among the
+oaks and bring out my countrymen, and offer them their lives on giving
+up their rifles and persons. I at last offered to go and call them out,
+on condition that they should return to San Juan or go to Monterey,
+with their arms; this being refused, I told the commandante to go in
+and bring them out himself. While they were consulting how this could
+be done, fifty Americans came down on them, which caused an action of
+about twenty or thirty minutes. Thirty or forty of the natives leaving
+the field at the first fire, they remained drawn off by fives and tens
+until the Americans had the field to themselves. Both parties remained
+within a mile of each other until dark. Our countrymen lost Captain
+Burroughs of St. Louis, Missouri, Captain Foster, and two others, with
+two or three wounded. The Californians lost two of their countrymen,
+and Jose Garcia, of Val., Chili, with seven wounded."
+
+The following additional particulars I extract from the "Californian"
+newspaper of November 21, 1846, published at Monterey: "Burroughs and
+Foster were killed at the first onset. The Americans fired, and then
+charged on the enemy with their empty rifles, and ran them off.
+However, they still kept rallying, and firing now and then a musket at
+the Americans until about eleven o'clock at night, when one of the
+Walla-Walla Indians offered his services to come into Monterey and give
+Colonel Fremont notice of what was passing. Soon after he started he
+was pursued by a party of the enemy. The foremost in pursuit drove a
+lance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it, received the lance
+through his hand; he immediately, with his other hand, seized his
+tomahawk, and struck his opponent, splitting his head from the crown to
+the mouth. By this time the others had come up, and, with the most
+extraordinary dexterity and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more,
+and the rest ran away. He rode on towards this town as far as his horse
+was able to carry him, and then left his horse and saddle, and came in
+on foot. He arrived here about eight o'clock on Tuesday morning,
+December 17th."
+
+The Americans engaged in this affair were principally the volunteer
+emigrants just arrived in the country, and who had left New Helvetia a
+few days in advance of me.
+
+Colonel Fremont marched from Monterey as soon as he heard of this
+skirmish, in pursuit of the Californians, but did not meet with them.
+He then encamped at the mission of San Juan, waiting there the arrival
+of the remaining volunteers from above.
+
+Leaving the Pueblo on the afternoon of the 25th, in conjunction with a
+small force commanded by Captain Weber, we made an excursion into the
+hills, near a rancho owned by Captain W., where were herded some two or
+three hundred public horses. It had been rumoured that a party of
+Californians were hovering about here, intending to capture and drive
+off these horses. The next day (November 26th), without having met any
+hostile force, driving these horses before us, we encamped at Mr.
+Murphy's rancho. Mr. Murphy is the father of a large and respectable
+family, who emigrated to this country some three or four years since
+from, the United States, being originally from Canada. His daughter,
+Miss Helen, who did the honours of the rude cabin, in manners,
+conversation, and personal charms, would grace any drawing-room. On the
+28th, we proceeded down the Pueblo valley, passing Gilroy's rancho, and
+reaching the mission of San Juan just before dark. The hills and
+valleys are becoming verdant with fresh grass and wild oats, the latter
+being, in places, two or three inches high. So tender is it, however,
+that it affords but little nourishment to our horses.
+
+The mission of San Juan Bautista has been one of the most extensive of
+these establishments. The principal buildings are more durably
+constructed than those of other missions I have visited, and they are
+in better condition. Square bricks are used in paving the corridors and
+the ground floors. During the twilight, I strayed accidentally through
+a half-opened gate into a cemetery, inclosed by a high wall in the rear
+of the church. The spectacle was ghastly enough. The exhumed skeletons
+of those who had been deposited here lay thickly strewn around, showing
+but little respect for the sanctity of the grave, or the rights of the
+dead from the living. The cool damp night-breeze sighed and moaned
+through the shrubbery and ruinous arches and corridors, planted and
+reared by those whose neglected bones were now exposed to the rude
+insults of man and beast. I could not but imagine that the voices of
+complaining spirits mingled with these dismal and mournful tones; and
+plucking a cluster of roses, the fragrance of which was delicious, I
+left the spot, to drive away the sadness and melancholy produced by the
+scene.
+
+The valley contiguous to the mission is extensive, well watered by a
+large _arroyo_, and highly fertile. The gardens and other lands for
+tillage are inclosed by willow hedges. Elevated hills, or mountains,
+bound this valley on the east and west. Large herds of cattle were
+scattered over the valley, greedily cropping the fresh green herbage,
+which now carpets mountain and plain.
+
+Colonel Fremont marched from San Juan this morning, and encamped, as we
+learned on our arrival, ten miles south. Proceeding up the _arroyo_ on
+the 29th, we reached the camp of Colonel F. about noon. I immediately
+reported, and delivered over to him the men and horses under my charge.
+The men were afterwards organized into a separate corps, of which Mr.
+R.T. Jacob, my travelling companion, was appointed the captain by
+Colonel Fremont.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+  California battalion
+  Their appearance and costume
+  List of the officers
+  Commence our march to Los Angeles
+  Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan
+  Slaughter of beeves
+  Astonishing consumption of beef by the men
+  Beautiful morning
+  Ice
+  Salinas river and valley
+  Californian prisoners
+  Horses giving out from fatigue
+  Mission of San Miguel
+  Sheep
+  Mutton
+  March on foot
+  More prisoners taken
+  Death of Mr. Stanley
+  An execution
+  Dark night
+  Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo
+  Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion.
+
+
+_November 30_.--The battalion of mounted riflemen, under the command of
+Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, numbers, rank and file, including Indians,
+and servants, 428. With the exception of the exploring party, which
+left the United States with Colonel F., they are composed of volunteers
+from the American settlers, and the emigrants who have arrived in the
+country within a few weeks. The latter have generally furnished their
+own ammunition and other equipments for the expedition. Most of these
+are practised riflemen, men of undoubted courage, and capable of
+bearing any fatigue and privations endurable by veteran troops. The
+Indians are composed of a party of Walla-Wallas from Oregon, and a
+party of native Californians. Attached to the battalion are two pieces
+of artillery, under the command of Lieutenant McLane, of the navy. In
+the appearance of our small army there is presented but little of "the
+pomp and circumstance of glorious war." There are no plumes nodding
+over brazen helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with lace and
+buttons. A broad-brimmed low-crowned hat, a shirt of blue flannel, or
+buckskin, with pantaloons and mocassins of the same, all generally much
+the worse for wear, and smeared with mud and dust, make up the costume
+of the party, officers as well as men. A leathern girdle surrounds the
+waist, from which are suspended a bowie and a hunter's knife, and
+sometimes a brace of pistols. These, with the rifle and
+holster-pistols, are the arms carried by officers and privates. A
+single bugle (and a sorry one it is) composes the band. Many an embryo
+Napoleon, in his own conceit, whose martial spirit has been excited to
+flaming intensity of heat by the peacock-plumage and gaudy trappings of
+our militia companies, when marching through the streets to the sound
+of drum, fife, and brass band, if he could have looked upon us, and
+then consulted the state of the military thermometer within him, would
+probably have discovered that the mercury of his heroism had fallen
+several degrees below zero. He might even have desired that we should
+not come
+
+    "Between the wind and his nobility."
+
+War, stripped of its pageantry, possesses but few of the attractions
+with which poetry and painting have embellished it. The following is a
+list of the officers composing the California Battalion:--Lieut.-colonel
+J.G. Fremont, commanding; A.H. Gillespie, major; P.B. Reading,
+paymaster; H. King, commissary; J.R. Snyder, quartermaster, since
+appointed a land-surveyor by Colonel Mason; Wm. H. Russell, ordnance
+officer; T. Talbot, lieutenant and adjutant; J.J. Myers, sergeant-major,
+appointed lieutenant in January, 1847.
+
+_Company A_.--Richard Owens, captain; Wm. N. Loker, 1st lieutenant,
+appointed adjutant, Feb. 10th, 1847; B.M. Hudspeth, 2d lieutenant,
+appointed captain, Feb. 1847, Wm. Findlay, 2d lieutenant, appointed
+captain, Feb. 1847.
+
+_Company B_.--Henry Ford, captain; Andrew Copeland, 1st lieutenant.
+
+_Company C_.--Granville P. Swift, captain; Wm. Baldridge, 1st
+lieutenant; Wm. Hartgrove, 2d do.
+
+_Company D_.--John Sears, captain; Wm. Bradshaw, 1st lieutenant.
+
+_Company E_.--John Grigsby, captain; Archibald Jesse, 1st lieutenant.
+
+_Company F_.--L.W. Hastings, captain (author of a work on California);
+Wornbough, 1st lieutenant; J.M. Hudspeth, 2d do.
+
+_Company G_.--Thompson, captain; Davis 1st lieutenant; Rock, 2d do.
+
+_Company H_.--R.T. Jacobs, captain; Edwin Bryant, 1st lieutenant
+(afterwards alcalde at San Francisco); Geo. M. Lippincott, 2d do., of
+New York.
+
+_Artillery Company_.--Louis McLane, captain (afterwards major); John.
+K. Wilson, 1st lieutenant, appointed captain in January, 1847; Wm.
+Blackburn, 2d do. (now alcalde of Santa Cruz).
+
+_Officers on detached Service and doing Duty at the South_.--S. Hensley,
+captain; S. Gibson, do. (lanced through the body at San Pascual);
+Miguel Pedrorena, do., Spaniard (appointed by Stockton); Stgo.
+Arguello, do., Californian (appointed by do.); Bell, do. (appointed
+by do.), old resident of California (Los Angeles); H. Rhenshaw, 1st
+lieutenant, (appointed by do.); A. Godey, do. (appointed by do.); Jas.
+Barton, do. (appointed by do.); L. Arguello, do., Californian
+(appointed by do.).
+
+After a march of six or eight hours, up the valley of the _arroyo_,
+through a heavy rain, and mud so deep that several of our horses gave
+out from exhaustion, we encamped in a circular bottom, near a deserted
+adobe house. A _caballada_, of some 500 or 600 loose horses and mules
+is driven along with us, but many of them are miserable sore-backed
+skeletons, having been exhausted with hard usage and bad fare during
+the summer campaign. Besides these, we have a large number of
+pack-mules, upon which all our baggage and provisions are transported.
+Distance 10 miles.
+
+We did not move on the 1st and 2d of December. There being no cattle in
+the vicinity of our camp, a party was sent back to the mission, on the
+morning of the 1st, who in the afternoon returned, driving before them
+about 100 head, most of them in good condition. After a sufficient
+number were slaughtered to supply the camp with meat for the day, the
+remainder were confined in a _corral_ prepared for the purpose, to be
+driven along with us, and slaughtered from day to day. The rain has
+continued, with short intermissions, since we commenced our march on
+the 30th of November. The ground has become saturated with water, and
+the small branches are swollen into large streams. Notwithstanding
+these discomforts, the men are in good spirits, and enjoy themselves in
+singing, telling stories, and playing _monte_.
+
+_December 3_.--The rain ceased falling about 8 o'clock this morning;
+and, the clouds breaking away, the sun cheered us once more with his
+pleasant beams. The battalion was formed into a hollow square, and, the
+order of the day being read, we resumed our march. Our progress,
+through the deep mud, was very slow. The horses were constantly giving
+out, and many were left behind. The young and tender grass upon which
+they feed affords but little nourishment, and hard labour soon exhausts
+them. We encamped on a low bluff, near the _arroyo_, timbered with
+evergreen oak. Distance 8 miles.
+
+_December 4_.--I was ordered with a small party in advance this
+morning. Proceeding up the valley a few miles, we left it, crossing
+several steep hills sparsely timbered with oak, from which we descended
+into another small valley, down which we continued to the point of its
+termination, near some narrow and difficult mountain gorges. In
+exploring the gorges, we discovered the trail of a party of
+Californians, which had passed south several days before us, and found
+a horse which they had left in their march. This, doubtless, was a
+portion of the party which captured Mr. Larkin, and had the engagement
+between Monterey and St. Juan, on the 17th ult. The main body coming
+up, we encamped at three o'clock. The old grass around our camp is
+abundant; but having been so much washed by the rains, and consequently
+exhausted of its nutritious qualities, the animals refused to eat it.
+The country over which we have travelled to-day, and as far as I can
+see, is mountainous and broken, little of it being adapted to other
+agricultural purposes than grazing.
+
+Thirteen beeves are slaughtered every afternoon for the consumption of
+the battalion. These beeves are generally of good size, and in fair
+condition. Other provisions being entirely exhausted, beef constitutes
+the only subsistence for the men, and most of the officers. Under these
+circumstances, the consumption of beef is astonishing. I do not know
+that I shall be believed when I state a fact, derived from observation
+and calculation, that the average consumption per man of fresh beef is
+at least ten pounds per day. Many of them, I believe, consume much
+more, and some of them less. Nor does this quantity appear to be
+injurious to health, or fully to satisfy the appetite. I have seen some
+of the men roast their meat and devour it by the fire from the hour of
+encamping until late bed-time. They would then sleep until one or two
+o'clock in the morning, when, the cravings of hunger being greater than
+the desire for repose, the same occupation would be resumed, and
+continued until the order was given to march. The Californian beef is
+generally fat, juicy, and tender, and surpasses in flavour any which I
+ever tasted elsewhere. Distance 10 miles.
+
+_December 5_.--I rose before daylight. The moon shone brightly. The
+temperature was cold. The vapour in the atmosphere had congealed and
+fallen upon the ground in feathery flakes, covering it with a white
+semi-transparent veil, or crystal sheen, sparkling in the moonbeams.
+The smoke from the numerous camp-fires soon began to curl languidly up
+in graceful wreaths, settling upon the mountain summits. The scene was
+one for the pencil and brush of the artist; but, when the envious sun
+rose, he soon stripped Madam Earth of her gauzy holiday morning-gown,
+and exposed her every-day petticoat of mud.
+
+Our march to-day has been one of great difficulty, through a deep
+brushy mountain gorge, through which it was almost impossible to force
+the field-pieces. In one place they were lowered with ropes down a
+steep and nearly perpendicular precipice of great height and depth. We
+encamped about three o'clock, P.M., in a small valley. Many of the
+horses gave out on the march, and were left behind by the men, who came
+straggling into camp until a late hour of the evening, bringing their
+saddles and baggage upon their shoulders. I noticed, while crossing an
+elevated ridge of hills, flakes of snow flying in the air, but melting
+before they reached the ground. The small spring-branch on which we
+encamped empties into the Salinas River. The country surrounding us is
+elevated and broken, and the soil sandy, with but little timber or
+grass upon it. Distance 12 miles.
+
+_December 6_.--Morning clear and cool. Crossed an undulating country,
+destitute of timber and water, and encamped in a circular valley
+surrounded by elevated hills, through which flows a small tributary of
+the Salinas. The summits of the mountains in sight are covered with
+snow, but the temperature in the valleys is pleasant. Distance 15
+miles.
+
+_December 7_.--Ice, the first I have seen since entering California,
+formed in the branch, of the thickness of window-glass. We reached the
+valley of the Salinas about eleven o'clock A.M., and encamped for the
+day. The river Salinas (laid down in some maps as Rio San Buenaventura)
+rises in the mountains to the south, and has a course of some sixty or
+eighty miles, emptying into the Pacific about twelve miles north of
+Monterey. The valley, as it approaches the ocean, is broad and fertile,
+and there are many fine ranchos upon it. But, higher up, the stream
+becomes dry in the summer, and the soil of the valley is arid and
+sandy. The width of the stream at this point is about thirty yards. Its
+banks are skirted by narrow belts of small timber. A range of elevated
+mountains rises between this valley and the coast. A court-martial was
+held to-day, for the trial of sundry offenders. Distance 8 miles.
+
+_December 8_.--Morning cool, clear, and pleasant. Two Californians were
+arrested by the rear-guard near a deserted rancho, and brought into
+camp. One of them turned out to be a person known to be friendly to the
+Americans. There has been but little variation in the soil or scenery.
+But few attempts appear to have been made to settle this portion of
+California. The thefts and hostilities of the Tular Indians are said to
+be one of the causes preventing its settlement. Distance 15 miles.
+
+_December 9_.--The mornings are cool, but the middle of the day is too
+warm to ride comfortably with our coats on. Our march has been
+fatiguing and difficult, through several brushy ravines and over steep
+and elevated hills. Many horses gave out as usual, and were left, from
+inability to travel. Our _caballada_ is diminishing rapidly. Distance
+10 miles.
+
+_December 10_.--Our march has been on the main beaten trail, dry and
+hard, and over a comparatively level country. We passed the mission of
+San Miguel about three o'clock, and encamped in a grove of large oak
+timber, three or four miles south of it. This mission is situated on
+the upper waters of the Salinas, in an extensive plain. Under the
+administration of the _padres_ it was a wealthy establishment, and
+manufactures of various kinds were carried on. They raised immense
+numbers of sheep, the fleeces of which were manufactured by the Indians
+into blankets and coarse cloths. Their granaries were filled with an
+abundance of maize and frijoles, and their store-rooms with other
+necessaries of life, from the ranchos belonging to the mission lands in
+the vicinity. Now all the buildings, except the church and the
+principal range of houses contiguous, have fallen into ruins, and an
+Englishman, his wife, and one small child, with two or three Indian
+servants, are the sole inhabitants. The church is the largest I have
+seen in the country, and its interior is in good repair, although it
+has not probably been used for the purpose of public worship for many
+years. The Englishman professes to have purchased the mission and all
+the lands belonging to it for 300 dollars.
+
+Our stock of cattle being exhausted, we feasted on Californian mutton,
+sheep being more abundant than cattle at this mission. The wool, I
+noticed, was coarse, but the mutton was of an excellent quality. The
+country over which we have travelled to-day shows the marks of long
+drought previous to the recent rains. The soil is sandy and gravelly,
+and the dead vegetation upon it is thin and stunted. About eighty of
+our horses are reported to have given out and been left behind.
+Distance 20 miles.
+
+_December 12_.--To relieve our horses, which are constantly giving out
+from exhaustion, the grass being insufficient for their sustenance
+while performing labour, the entire battalion, officers and men, were
+ordered to march on foot, turning their horses, with the saddles and
+bridles upon them, into the general _caballada_, to be driven along by
+the horse-guard. The day has been drizzly, cold, and disagreeable. The
+country has a barren and naked appearance; but this, I believe, is
+attributable to the extreme drought that has prevailed in this region
+for one or two years past. We encamped near the rancho of a friendly
+Californian--the man who was taken prisoner the other day and set at
+large. An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortoria Pico, was captured
+here by the advance party. A letter was found upon him, but the
+contents of which I never learned. This being the first foot-march,
+there were, of course, many galled and blistered feet in the battalion.
+My servant obtained, with some difficulty, from the Indians at the
+rancho, a pint-cup of _pinole_, or parched corn-meal, and a quart or
+two of wheat, which, being boiled, furnished some variety in our viands
+at supper, fresh beef having been our only subsistence since the
+commencement of the march from San Juan. Distance 12 miles.
+
+_December 13_.--A rainy disagreeable morning. Mr. Stanley, one of the
+volunteers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly supplied us with
+provisions on Mary's River, died last night. He has been suffering from
+an attack of typhoid fever since the commencement of our march, and
+unable most of the time to sit upon his horse. He was buried this
+morning in a small circular opening in the timber near our camp. The
+battalion was formed in a hollow square surrounding the grave which had
+been excavated for the final resting-place of our deceased friend and
+comrade. There was neither bier, nor coffin, nor pall--
+
+    "Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note."
+
+The cold earth was heaped upon his mortal remains in silent solemnity,
+and the ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose in the
+lonely hills of California.
+
+After the funeral the battalion was marched a short distance to witness
+another scene, not more mournful, but more harrowing than the last. The
+Indian captured at the rancho yesterday was condemned to die. He was
+brought from his place of confinement and tied to a tree. Here he stood
+some fifteen or twenty minutes, until the Indians from a neighbouring
+_rancheria_ could be brought to witness the execution. A file of
+soldiers were then ordered to fire upon him. He fell upon his knees,
+and remained in that position several minutes without uttering a groan,
+and then sank upon the earth. No human being could have met his fate
+with more composure, or with stronger manifestations of courage. It was
+a scene such as I desire never to witness again.
+
+A cold rain fell upon us during the entire day's march. We encamped at
+four o'clock, P.M.; but the rain poured down in such torrents that it
+was impossible to light our camp-fires and keep them burning. This
+continued nearly the whole night, and I have rarely passed a night more
+uncomfortably. A scouting party brought in two additional prisoners
+this evening. Another returned, and reported the capture of a number of
+horses, and the destruction of a rancho by fire. Distance 12 miles.
+
+_December 14_.--The battalion commenced its march on foot and in a
+heavy rain. The mud is very deep, and we have been compelled to wade
+several streams of considerable depth, being swollen by the recent
+rains. At one o'clock a halt was ordered, and beef slaughtered and
+cooked for dinner. The march was resumed late in the afternoon, and the
+plain surrounding the mission of San Luis Obispo was reached in the
+pitch darkness of the night, a family in the _canada_ having been taken
+prisoners by the advance party to prevent them from giving the alarm.
+The battalion was so disposed as to surround the mission and take
+prisoners all contained within it. The place was entered in great
+confusion, on account of the darkness, about nine o'clock. There was no
+military force at the mission, and the few inhabitants were greatly
+alarmed, as may well be supposed, by this sudden invasion. They made no
+resistance, and were all taken prisoners except one or two, who managed
+to escape and fled in great terror, no one knew where or how. It being
+ascertained that Tortoria Pico, a man who has figured conspicuously in
+most of the Californian revolutions, was in the neighbourhood, a party
+was despatched immediately to the place, and he was brought in a
+prisoner. The night was rainy and boisterous, and the soldiers were
+quartered to the best advantage in the miserable mud houses, and no
+acts of violence or outrage of any kind were committed.
+
+The men composing the Californian battalion, as I have before stated,
+have been drawn from many sources, and are roughly clad, and
+weather-beaten in their exterior appearance; but I feel it but justice
+here to state my belief, that no military party ever passed through an
+enemy's country and observed the same strict regard for the rights of
+its population. I never heard of an outrage, or even a trespass being
+committed by one of the American volunteers during our entire march.
+Every American appeared to understand perfectly the duty which he owed
+to himself and others in this respect, and the deportment of the
+battalion might be cited as a model for imitation. Distance 18 miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+  Tremendous rain
+  Mission of San Luis Obispo
+  Gardens
+  Various fruits
+  Farm
+  Cactus tuna
+  Calinche
+  Pumpkins
+  Trial of Tortoria Pico
+  Procession of women
+  Pico's pardon
+  Leave San Luis
+  Surf of the Pacific
+  Captain Dana
+  Tempestuous night
+  Mission of St. Ynes
+  Effects of drought
+  Horses exhausted
+  St. Ynes Mountain
+  View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific
+  A wretched Christmas-day
+  Descent of St. Ynes Mountain
+  Terrible storm
+  Frightful destruction of horses
+  Dark night
+  What we are fighting for
+  Arrive at Santa Barbara
+  Town deserted.
+
+
+_December 15_.--The rain fell in cataracts the entire day. The small
+streams which flow from the mountains through, and water the valley of,
+San Luis Obispo, are swollen by the deluge of water from the clouds
+into foaming unfordable torrents. In order not to trespass upon the
+population at the mission, in their miserable abodes of mud, the church
+was opened, and a large number of the soldiers were quartered in it. A
+guard, however, was set day and night, over the chancel and all other
+property contained in the building, to prevent its being injured or
+disturbed. The decorations of the church are much the same as I have
+before described. The edifice is large, and the interior in good
+repair. The floor is paved with square bricks. I noticed a common
+hand-organ in the church, which played the airs we usually hear from
+organ-grinders in the street.
+
+Besides the main large buildings connected with the church, there are
+standing, and partially occupied, several small squares of adobe
+houses, belonging to this mission. The heaps of mud, and crumbling
+walls outside of these, are evidence that the place was once of much
+greater extent, and probably one of the most opulent and prosperous
+establishments of the kind in the country. The lands surrounding the
+mission are finely situated for cultivation and irrigation if
+necessary. There are several large gardens, inclosed by high and
+substantial walls, which now contain a great variety of fruit-trees and
+shrubbery. I noticed the orange, fig, palm, olive, and grape. There are
+also large inclosures hedged in by the prickly-pear (cactus), which
+grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against man
+or beast. The stalks of some of these plants are of the thickness of a
+man's body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet. A juicy fruit is
+produced by the prickly-pear, named _tuna_, from which a beverage is
+sometimes made, called _calinche_. It has a pleasant flavour, as has
+also the fruit, which, when ripe, is blood-red. A small quantity of
+pounded wheat was found here, which, being purchased, was served out to
+the troops, about a pound to the man. Frijoles and pumpkins were also
+obtained, delicacies of no common order.
+
+_December 16_.--A court-martial was convened this morning for the trial
+of Pico, the principal prisoner, on the charge, I understood, of the
+forfeiture of his parole which had been taken on a former occasion. The
+sentence of the court was, that he should be shot or hung, I do not
+know which. A rumour is current among the population here, that there
+has been an engagement between a party of Americans and Californians,
+near Los Angeles, in which the former were defeated with the loss of
+thirty men killed.
+
+_December 17_.--Cool, with a hazy sky. While standing in one of the
+corridors this morning, a procession of females passed by me, headed by
+a lady of fine appearance and dressed with remarkable taste and
+neatness, compared with those who followed her. Their _rebosos_
+concealed the faces of most of them, except the leader, whose beautiful
+features, dare say, she thought (and justly) required no concealment.
+They proceeded to the quarters of Colonel Fremont, and their object, I
+understood, was to petition for the reprieve or pardon of Pico, who had
+been condemned to death by the court-martial yesterday, and whose
+execution was expected to take place this morning. Their intercession
+was successful, as no execution took place, and in a short time all the
+prisoners were discharged, and the order to saddle up and march given.
+We resumed our march at ten o'clock, and encamped just before sunset in
+a small but picturesque and fertile valley timbered with oak, so near
+the coast that the roar of the surf breaking against the shore could be
+heard distinctly. Distance seven miles.
+
+_December 18_.--Clear, with a delightful temperature. Before the sun
+rose the grass was covered with a white frost. The day throughout has
+been calm and beautiful. A march of four miles brought us to the shore
+of a small indentation in the coast of the Pacific, where vessels can
+anchor, and boats can land when the wind is not too fresh. The surf is
+now rolling and foaming with prodigious energy--breaking upon the beach
+in long lines one behind the other, and striking the shore like
+cataracts. The hills and plains are verdant with a carpet of fresh
+grass, and the scattered live-oaks on all sides, appearing like
+orchards of fruit-trees, give to the country an old and cultivated
+aspect. The mountains bench away on our left, the low hills rising in
+gentle conical forms, beyond which are the more elevated and
+precipitous peaks covered with snow. We encamped about three o'clock
+near the rancho of Captain Dana, in a large and handsome valley well
+watered by an _arroyo_.
+
+Captain Dana is a native of Massachusetts, and has resided in this
+country about thirty years. He is known and esteemed throughout
+California for his intelligence and private virtues, and his unbounded
+generosity and hospitality. I purchased here a few loaves of wheat
+bread, and distributed them among the men belonging to our company as
+far as they would go, a luxury which they have not indulged in since
+the commencement of the march. Distance 15 miles.
+
+_December 19_.--The night was cold and tempestuous, with a slight fall
+of rain. The clouds broke away after sunrise, and the day became warm
+and pleasant. We continued our march up the valley, and encamped near
+its head. The table-land and hills are generally gravelly, but appear
+to be productive of fine grass. The soil of the bottom is of the
+richest and most productive composition. We crossed in the course of
+the day a wide flat plain, upon which were grazing large herds of
+brood-mares (_manadas_) and cattle. In the distance they resembled
+large armies approaching us. The peaks of the elevated mountains in
+sight are covered with snow. A large number of horses gave out,
+strayed, and were left behind to-day, estimated at one hundred. The men
+came into camp bringing their saddles on their backs, and some of them
+arriving late in the evening. Distance 18 miles.
+
+_December 20_.--Parties were sent back this morning to gather up horses
+and baggage left on the march yesterday, and it was one o'clock before
+the rear-guard, waiting for the return of those, left camp. The main
+body made a short march and encamped early, in a small hollow near the
+rancho of Mr. Faxon, through which flows an _arroyo_, the surrounding
+hills being timbered with evergreen oaks. The men amused themselves
+during the afternoon in target-shooting. Many of the battalion are fine
+marksmen with the rifle, and the average of shots could not easily be
+surpassed. The camp spread over an undulating surface of half a mile in
+diameter, and at night, when the fires were lighted, illuminating the
+grove, with its drapery of drooping Spanish moss, it presented a most
+picturesque appearance. Distance 3 miles.
+
+_December 21_.--Clear and pleasant. A foot march was ordered, with the
+exception of the horse and baggage guard. We marched several miles
+through a winding hollow, passing a deserted rancho, and ascending with
+much labour a steep ridge of hills, descending which we entered a
+handsome valley, and encamped upon a small stream about four miles from
+the mission of St. Ynes. The banks of the _arroyo_ are strewn with dead
+and prostrate timber, the trees, large and small, having been
+overthrown by tornados. The plain has suffered, like much of the
+country we have passed through, by a long-continued drought, but the
+composition of the soil is such as indicates fertility, and from the
+effects of the late rains the grass is springing up with great
+luxuriance, from places which before were entirely denuded of
+vegetation. A party was sent from camp to inspect the mission, but
+returned without making any important discoveries. Our horses are so
+weak that many of them are unable to carry their saddles, and were left
+on the road as usual. A man had his leg broken on the march to-day, by
+the kick of a mule. He was sent back to the rancho of Mr. Faxon.
+Distance 15 miles.
+
+_December 22_.--Clear and pleasant. Being of the party which performed
+rear-guard duty to-day, with orders to bring in all stragglers, we did
+not leave camp until several hours after the main body had left. The
+horses of the _caballada_ and the pack-animals were continually giving
+out and refusing to proceed. Parties of men, exhausted, lay down upon
+the ground, and it was with much urging, and sometimes with peremptory
+commands only, that they could be prevailed upon to proceed. The
+country bears the same marks of drought heretofore described, but fresh
+vegetation is now springing up and appears vigorous. A large
+horse-trail loading into one of the _canadas_ of the mountains on our
+left was discovered by the scouts, and a party was dispatched to trace
+it. We passed one deserted rancho, and reached camp between nine and
+ten o'clock at night, having forced in all the men and most of the
+horses and pack-mules. Distance 15 miles.
+
+_December 23_.--Rain fell steadily and heavily the entire day. A small
+party of men was in advance. Discovering in a brushy valley two Indians
+armed with bows and arrows, they were taken prisoners. Learning from
+them that there was a _caballada_ of horses secreted in one of the
+_canadas_, they continued on about ten miles, and found about
+twenty-five fresh fat horses, belonging to a Californian now among the
+insurgents below. They were taken and delivered at the camp near the
+eastern base of the St. Ynes Mountain. Passed this morning a rancho
+inhabited by a foreigner, an Englishman.
+
+_December 24_.--Cloudy and cool, with an occasional sprinkling rain.
+Our route to-day lay directly over the St. Ynes Mountain, by an
+elevated and most difficult pass. The height of this mountain is
+several thousand feet. We reached the summit about twelve o'clock, and,
+our company composing the advance-guard, we encamped about a mile and a
+half in advance of the main body of the battalion, at a point which
+overlooks the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara, of which, and the ocean
+beyond, we had a most extended and interesting view. With the
+spy-glass, we could see, in the plain far below us, herds of cattle
+quietly grazing upon the green herbage that carpets its gentle
+undulations. The plain is dotted with groves, surrounding the springs
+and belting the small water-courses, of which there are many flowing
+from this range of mountains. Ranchos are scattered far up and down the
+plain, but not one human being could be seen stirring. About ten or
+twelve miles to the south, the white towers of the mission of Santa
+Barbara raise themselves. Beyond is the illimitable waste of waters. A
+more lovely and picturesque landscape I never beheld. On the summit of
+the mountain, and surrounding us, there is a growth of hawthorn,
+manzinita (in bloom), and other small shrubbery. The rock is soft
+sandstone and conglomerate, immense masses of which, piled one upon
+another, form a wall along the western brow of the mountain, through
+which there is a single pass or gateway about eight or ten feet in
+width. The descent on the western side is precipitous, and appears
+almost impassable. Distance 4 miles.
+
+_December 25_.--Christmas-day, and a memorable one to me. Owing to the
+difficulty in hauling the cannon up the steep acclivities of the
+mountain, the main body of the battalion did not come up with us until
+twelve o'clock, and before we commenced the descent of the mountain a
+furious storm commenced, raging with a violence rarely surpassed. The
+rain fell in torrents, and the wind blew almost with the force of a
+tornado. This fierce strife of the elements continued without abatement
+the entire afternoon, and until two o'clock at night. Driving our
+horses before us, we were compelled to slide down the steep and
+slippery rocks, or wade through deep gullies and ravines filled with
+mud and foaming torrents of water, that rushed downwards with such
+force as to carry along the loose rocks and tear up the trees and
+shrubbery by the roots. Many of the horses falling into the ravines
+refused to make an effort to extricate themselves, and were swept
+downwards and drowned. Others, bewildered by the fierceness and terrors
+of the storm, rushed or fell headlong over the steep precipices and
+were killed. Others obstinately refused to proceed, but stood quaking
+with fear or shivering with cold, and many of these perished in the
+night from the severity of the storm. The advance party did not reach
+the foot of the mountain and find a place to encamp until night--and a
+night of more impenetrable and terrific darkness I never witnessed. The
+ground upon which our camp was made, although sloping from the hills to
+a small stream, was so saturated with water that men as well as horses
+sunk deep at every step. The rain fell in such quantities, that fires
+with great difficulty could be lighted, and most of them were
+immediately extinguished.
+
+The officers and men belonging to the company having the cannon in
+charge laboured until nine or ten o'clock to bring them down the
+mountain, but they were finally compelled to leave them. Much of the
+baggage also remained on the side of the mountain, with the pack-mules
+and horses conveying them, all efforts to force the animals down being
+fruitless. The men continued to straggle into the camp until a late
+hour of the night;--some crept under the shelving rocks and did not
+come in until the next morning. We were so fortunate as to find our
+tent, and after much difficulty pitched it under an oak-tree. All
+efforts to light a fire and keep it blazing proving abortive, we spread
+our blankets upon the ground and endeavoured to sleep, although we
+could feel the cold streams of water running through the tent and
+between and around our bodies.
+
+In this condition we remained until about two o'clock in the morning,
+when the storm having abated I rose, and shaking from my garments the
+dripping water, after many unsuccessful efforts succeeded in kindling a
+fire. Near our tent I found three soldiers who had reached camp at a
+late hour. They were fast asleep on the ground, the water around them
+being two or three inches deep; but they had taken care to keep their
+heads above water, by using a log of wood for a pillow. The fire
+beginning to blaze freely, I dug a ditch with my hands and a sharp
+stick of wood, which drained off the pool surrounding the tent. One of
+the men, when he felt the sensation consequent upon being "high and
+dry," roused himself, and, sitting upright, looked around for some time
+with an expression of bewildered amazement. At length he seemed to
+realize the true state of the case, and exclaimed, in a tone of
+energetic soliloquy,--
+
+"Well, who _wouldn't_ be a soldier and fight for California?"
+
+"You are mistaken," I replied.
+
+Rubbing his eyes, he gazed at me with astonishment, as if having been
+entirely unconscious of my presence; but, reassuring himself, he said:
+
+"How mistaken?"
+
+"Why," I answered, "you are not fighting for California."
+
+"What the d----l, then, am I fighting for?" he inquired.
+
+"For TEXAS."
+
+"Texas be d----d; but hurrah for General Jackson!" and with this
+exclamation he threw himself back again upon his wooden pillow, and was
+soon snoring in a profound slumber.
+
+Making a platform composed of sticks of wood upon the soft mud, I
+stripped myself to the skin, wringing the water from each garment as I
+proceeded. I then commenced drying them by the fire in the order that
+they were replaced upon my body, an employment that occupied me until
+daylight, which sign, above the high mountain to the east, down which
+we had rolled rather than marched yesterday, I was truly rejoiced to
+see. Distance 3 miles.
+
+_December 26_.--Parties were detailed early this morning, and
+despatched up the mountain to bring down the cannon, and collect the
+living horses and baggage. The destruction of horse-flesh, by those who
+witnessed the scene by daylight, is described as frightful. In some
+places large numbers of dead horses were piled together. In others,
+horses half buried in the mud of the ravines, or among the rocks, were
+gasping in the agonies of death. The number of dead animals is
+variously estimated at from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty, by
+different persons. The cannon, most of the missing baggage, and the
+living horses, were all brought in by noon. The day was busily employed
+in cleansing our rifles and pistols, and drying our drenched baggage.
+
+_December 27_.--Preparations were commenced early for the resumption of
+our march; but such was the condition of everything around us, that it
+was two o'clock, P.M., before the battalion was in readiness; and then
+so great had been the loss of horses in various ways, that the number
+remaining was insufficient to mount the men. One or two companies, and
+portions of others, were compelled to march on foot. We were visited
+during the forenoon by Mr. Sparks, an American, Dr. Den, an Irishman,
+and Mr. Burton, another American, residents of Santa Barbara. They had
+been suffered by the Californians to remain in the place. Their
+information communicated to us was, that the town was deserted of
+nearly all its population. A few houses only were occupied. Passing
+down a beautiful and fertile undulating plain, we encamped just before
+sunset in a live-oak grove, about half a mile from the town of Santa
+Barbara. Strict orders were issued by Col. Fremont, that the property
+and the persons of Californians, not found in arms, should be sacredly
+respected. To prevent all collisions, no soldier was allowed to pass
+the lines of the camp without special permission, or orders from his
+officers.
+
+I visited the town before dark, but found the houses, with few
+exceptions, closed, and the streets deserted. After hunting about some
+time, we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker and
+his family, open. Entering it, we were very kindly received by its
+occupants, who, with a princely supply of civility, possessed but a
+beggarly array of comforts. At our request they provided for us a
+supper of _tortillas, frijoles_, and stewed _carne_ seasoned with
+_chile colorado_, for which, paying them _dos pesos_ for four, we bade
+them good evening, all parties being well satisfied. The family
+consisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children,
+of all ages. The women, from the accounts they had received of the
+intentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for civil
+treatment from them. They expected to be dealt with in a very barbarous
+manner, _in all respects_; but they were disappointed, and invited us
+to visit them again. Distance 8 miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Santa Barbara
+  Picturesque situation
+  Fertility of the country
+  Climate
+  Population
+  Society
+  Leave Santa Barbara
+  Rincon
+  Grampus
+  Mission of St. Buenaventura
+  Fine gardens
+  Meet a party of mounted Californians
+  They retreat before us
+  Abundance of maize
+  Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton
+  Effects of war upon the country
+  More of the enemy in sight
+  News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton
+  Mission of San Fernando
+  The Maguey
+  Capitulation of the Californians
+  Arrive at Los Angeles
+  General reflections upon the march
+  Meet with old acquaintances.
+
+
+The battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 27th of
+December to the 3rd of January, 1847. The U.S. flag was raised in the
+public square of the town the day after our arrival.
+
+The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque,
+about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchorage
+for vessels of any size, and a landing for boats in calm weather.
+During stormy weather, or the prevalence of strong winds from the
+south-east, vessels, for safety, are compelled to stand out to sea. A
+fertile plain extends some twenty or thirty miles up and down the
+coast, varying in breadth from two to ten miles, and bounded on the
+east by a range of high mountains. The population of the town I should
+judge, from the number of houses, to be about 1200 souls. Most of the
+houses are constructed of adobes, in the usual architectural style of
+Mexican buildings. Some of them, however, are more Americanized, and
+have some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and comfortable and
+convenient interior arrangement. Its commerce, I presume, is limited to
+the export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding plain; and
+the commodities received in exchange for these from the traders on the
+coast. Doubtless, new and yet undeveloped sources of wealth will be
+discovered hereafter that will render this town of much greater
+importance than it is at present.
+
+On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, there are, I have been
+told, immense quantities of pure bitumen or mineral tar, which, rising
+in the ocean, has been thrown upon the shore by the waves, where in a
+concrete state, like resin, it has accumulated in inexhaustible masses.
+There are, doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighbouring
+mountains, which, when developed by enterprise, will add greatly to the
+wealth and importance of the town. For intelligence, refinement, and
+civilization, the population, it is said, will compare advantageously
+with any in California. Some old and influential Spanish families are
+residents of this place; but their _casas_, with the exception of that
+of Senor Don Jose Noriega, the largest house in the place, are now
+closed and deserted. Senor N. is one of the oldest and most respectable
+citizens of California, having filled the highest offices in the
+government of the country. One of his daughters is a resident of New
+York, having married Alfred Robinson, Esq., of that city, author of
+"Life in California."
+
+The climate, judging from the indications while we remained here, must
+be delightful, even in winter. With the exception of one day, which was
+tempestuous, the temperature at night did not fall below 50 deg., and
+during the day the average was between 60 deg. and 70 deg. The atmosphere
+was perfectly clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the
+pleasant days of April in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of the
+continent. It is a peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shade
+or ornamental trees to grow near their houses. In none of the streets
+of the towns or missions through which I have passed has there been a
+solitary tree standing. I noticed very few horticultural attempts in
+Santa Barbara. At the mission, about two miles distant, which is an
+extensive establishment and in good preservation, I was told that there
+were fine gardens, producing most of the varieties of fruits of the
+tropical and temperate climates.
+
+Several Californians came into camp and offered to deliver themselves
+up. They were permitted to go at large. They represented that the
+Californian force at the south was daily growing weaker from
+dissensions and desertions. The United States prize-schooner Julia
+arrived on the 30th, from which was landed a cannon for the use of the
+battalion. It has, however, to be mounted on wheels, and the gear
+necessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp. Reports were
+current in camp on the 31st, that the Californians intended to meet and
+fight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant. On the 1st of
+January, the Indians of the mission and town celebrated new-year's day,
+by a procession, music, etc., etc. They marched from the mission to the
+town, and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets. Among
+the airs they played was "Yankee Doodle."
+
+_January 3_.--A beautiful spring-like day. We resumed our march at 11
+o'clock, and encamped in a live-oak grove about ten miles south of
+Santa-Barbara. Our route has been generally near the shore of the
+ocean. Timber is abundant, and the grass and other vegetation
+luxuriant. Distance 10 miles.
+
+_January 4_.--At the "Rincon," or passage between two points of land
+jutting into the ocean, so narrow that at high tides the surf dashes
+against the neatly perpendicular bases of the mountains which bound the
+shore, it has been supposed the hostile Californians would make a
+stand, the position being so advantageous to them. The road, if road it
+can be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by each
+succeeding tide, runs along a hard sand-beach, with occasional
+projections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, and
+the surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequently
+reaches to the bellies of the horses. Some demonstration has been
+confidently expected here, but we encamped in this pass the first day
+without meeting an enemy or seeing a sign of one. Our camp is close to
+the ocean, and the roar of the surf, as it dashes against the shore, is
+like that of an immense cataract. Hundreds of the grampus whale are
+sporting a mile or two distant from the land, spouting up water and
+spray to a great height, in columns resembling steam from the
+escape-pipes of steam-boats. Distance 6 miles.
+
+_January 5_.--The prize-schooner Julia was lying off in sight this
+morning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there be any
+attempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march of the
+battalion. We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped a
+short distance from it at two o'clock. Soon after, a small party of
+Californians exhibited themselves on an elevation just beyond the
+mission. The battalion was immediately called to arms, and marched out
+to meet them. But, after the discharge of the two field-pieces, they
+scampered away like a flock of antelopes, and the battalion returned to
+camp, with none killed or wounded on either side. Under the belief that
+there was a larger force of Californians encamped at a distance of some
+five or six miles, and that during the night they might attempt a
+surprise, or plant cannon on the summit of a hill about a mile from
+camp, so as to annoy us, a party, of which I was one, was detached,
+after dark, to occupy the hill secretly. We marched around the mission
+as privately as possible, and took our position on the hill, where we
+remained all night without the least disturbance, except by the
+tempestuous wind, which blew a blast so cold and piercing as almost to
+congeal the blood. When the sun rose in the morning, I could see, far
+out in the ocean, three vessels scudding before the gale like phantom
+ships. One of these was the little schooner that had been waiting upon
+us while marching along the "Rincon." Distance 14 miles.
+
+_January 6_.--The wind has blown a gale in our faces all day, and the
+clouds of dust have been almost blinding. The mission of San
+Buenaventura does not differ, in its general features, from those of
+other establishments of the same kind heretofore described. There is a
+large garden, inclosed by a high wall, attached to the mission, in
+which I noticed a great variety of fruit-trees and ornamental
+shrubbery. There are also numerous inclosures, for cultivation, by
+willow hedges. The soil, when properly tilled, appears to be highly
+productive. This mission is situated about two miles from the shore of
+a small bay or indentation of the coast, on the edge of a plain or
+valley watered by the Rio Santa Clara, which empties into the Pacific
+at this point. A chain of small islands, from ten to twenty miles from
+the shore, commences at Santa Barbara, and extends south along the
+coast, to the bay of San Pedro. These islands present to the eye a
+barren appearance. At present the only inhabitants of the mission are a
+few Indians, the white population having abandoned it on our approach,
+with the exception of one man, who met us yesterday and surrendered
+himself a prisoner.
+
+Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, we
+discovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mounted
+Californians, drawn up in order on the bank of the river. This, it was
+conjectured, might be only a portion of a much larger force stationed
+here, and concealed in a deep ravine which runs across the valley, or
+in the _canadas_ of the hills on our left. Scouting-parties mounted the
+hills, for the purpose of ascertaining if such was the case. In the
+mean time, the party of Californians on our right scattered themselves
+over the plain, prancing their horses, waving their swords, banners,
+and lances, and performing a great variety of equestrian feats. They
+were mounted on fine horses, and there are no better horsemen, if as
+good, in the world, than Californians. They took especial care,
+however, to keep beyond the reach of cannon-shot. The battalion wheeled
+to the left for the purpose of crossing a point of hills jutting into
+the plain, and taking the supposed concealed party of the enemy on
+their flank. It was, however, found impracticable to cross the hills
+with the cannon; and, returning to the plain, the march was continued,
+the Californians still prancing and performing their antics in our
+faces. Our horses were so poor and feeble that it was impossible to
+chase them with any hope of success. As we proceeded, they retreated.
+Some of the Indian scouts, among whom were a Delaware named Tom, who
+distinguished himself in the engagement near San Juan, and a
+Californian Indian named Gregorio, rode towards them; and two or three
+guns were discharged on both sides, but without any damage, the parties
+not being within dangerous gun-shot distance of each other. The
+Californians then formed themselves in a body, and soon disappeared
+behind some hills on our right. We encamped about four o'clock in the
+valley, the wind blowing almost a hurricane, and the dust flying so as
+nearly to blind us. Distance 9 miles.
+
+_January 7_.--Continuing our march up the valley, we encamped near the
+rancho of Carrillo, where we found an abundance of corn, wheat, and
+frijoles. The house was shut up, having been deserted by its
+proprietor, who is said to be connected with the rebellion. Californian
+scouts were seen occasionally to-day on the summits of the hills south
+of us. Distance 7 miles.
+
+_January 8_.--Another tempestuous day. I do not remember ever to have
+experienced such disagreeable effects from the wind and the clouds of
+dust in which we were constantly enveloped, driving into our faces
+without intermission. We encamped this afternoon in a grove of willows
+near a rancho, where, as yesterday, we found corn and beans in
+abundance. Our horses, consequently, fare well, and we fare better than
+we have done. One-fourth of the battalion, exclusive of the regular
+guard, is kept under arms during the night, to be prepared against
+surprises and night-attacks. Distance 12 miles.
+
+_January 9_.--Early this morning Captain Hamley, accompanied by a
+Californian as a guide, came into camp, with despatches from Commodore
+Stockton. The exact purport of these despatches I never learned, but it
+was understood that the commodore, in conjunction with General Kearny,
+was marching upon Los Angeles, and that, if they had not already
+reached and taken that town (the present capital of California), they
+were by this time in its neighbourhood. Captain Hamley passed, last
+night, the encampment of a party of Californians in our rear. He landed
+from a vessel at Santa Barbara, and from thence followed us to this
+place by land. We encamped this afternoon at a rancho, situated on the
+edge of a fertile and finely watered plain of considerable extent,
+where we found corn, wheat, and frijoles in great abundance. The rancho
+was owned and occupied by an aged Californian, of commanding and
+respectable appearance; I could not but feel compassion for the
+venerable old man, whose sons were now all absent and engaged in the
+war, while he, at home and unsupported, was suffering the unavoidable
+inconveniences and calamities resulting from an army being quartered
+upon him.
+
+As we march south there appears to be a larger supply of wheat, maize,
+beans, and barley in the granaries of the ranchos. More attention is
+evidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north,
+although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raising
+of crops. The Californian spies have shown themselves at various times
+to-day, on the summits of the hills on our right. Distance 12 miles.
+
+_January 10_.--Crossing the plain, we encamped, about two o'clock P.M.,
+in the mouth of a _canada_, through which we ascend over a difficult
+pass in a range of elevated hills between us and the plain of San
+Fernando, or Couenga. Some forty or fifty mounted Californians
+exhibited themselves on the summit of the pass during the afternoon.
+They were doubtless a portion of the same party that we met several
+days ago, just below San Buenaventura. A large number of cattle were
+collected in the plain and corralled, to be driven along to-morrow for
+subsistence. Distance 10 miles.
+
+_January 11_.--The battalion this morning was divided into two parties;
+the main body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right of
+the road or trail; and the artillery, horses and baggage, with an
+advance-guard and escort, marching by the direct route. We found the
+pass narrow, and easily to be defended by brave and determined men
+against a greatly superior force; but when we had mounted the summit of
+the ridge there was no enemy, nor the sign of one, in sight. Descending
+into a _canada_ on the other side, we halted until the main body came
+up to us, and then the whole force was again reunited, and the march
+continued.
+
+Emerging from the hills, the advance party to which I was attached met
+two Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste. They stated that
+they were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forces
+had met the American forces under the command of General Kearny and
+Commodore Stockton, and had been defeated after two days' fighting; and
+that the Americans had yesterday marched into Los Angeles. They
+requested to be conducted immediately to Colonel Fremont, which request
+was complied with. A little farther on we met a Frenchman, who stated
+that he was the bearer of a letter from General Kearny, at Los Angeles,
+to Colonel Fremont. He confirmed the statement we had just heard, and
+was permitted to pass. Continuing our march, we entered the mission of
+San Fernando at one o'clock, and in about two hours the main body
+arrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the mission buildings.
+
+The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in better
+condition than those of any of these establishments I have seen. There
+are two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls; and a stroll
+through them afforded a most delightful contrast from the usually
+uncultivated landscape we have been travelling through for so long a
+time. Here were brought together most of the fruits and many of the
+plants of the temperate and tropical climates. Although not the season
+of flowers, still the roses were in bloom. Oranges, lemons, figs, and
+olives hung upon the trees, and the blood-red _tuna_, or prickly-pear,
+looked very tempting. Among the plants I noticed the American aloe
+(_argave Americana_), which is otherwise called _maguey_. From this
+plant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is extracted,
+which is manufactured into a beverage called _pulque_, and is much
+prized by Mexicans. The season of grapes has passed, but there are
+extensive vineyards at this mission. I drank, soon after my arrival, a
+glass of red wine manufactured here, of a good quality.
+
+The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive and
+very fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and other
+vegetation now springing up. I noticed in the granary from which our
+horses were supplied with food many thousand bushels of corn. The ear
+is smaller than that of the corn of the Southern States. It resembles
+the maize cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard and
+polished. Large herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plain
+in sight of the mission.
+
+_January 12_.--This morning two Californian officers, accompanied by
+Tortaria Pico, who marched with us from San Luis Obispo, came to the
+mission to treat for peace. A consultation was held and terms were
+suggested, and, as I understand, partly agreed upon, but not concluded.
+The officers left in the afternoon.
+
+_January 13_.--We continued our march, and encamped near a deserted
+rancho at the foot of Couenga plain. Soon after we halted, the
+Californian peace-commissioners appeared, and the terms of peace and
+capitulation were finally agreed upon and signed by the respective
+parties. They were as follows:--
+
+  ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION,
+
+  Made and entered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day
+  of January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P.B. Reading,
+  major; Louis McLane, junr., commanding 3rd Artillery; William H.
+  Russell, ordnance officer--commissioners appointed by J.C. Fremont,
+  Colonel United States Army, and Military Commandant of California;
+  and Jose Antonio Carillo, commandant esquadron; Augustin Olivera,
+  deputado--commissioners appointed by Don Andres Pico,
+  Commander-in-chief of the Californian forces under the Mexican flag.
+
+  Article 1st. The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree
+  that their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to
+  Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public
+  arms, and that they shall return peaceably to their homes,
+  conforming to the laws and regulations of the United States, and not
+  again take up arms during the war between the United States and
+  Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the country in a state of
+  peace and tranquillity.
+
+  Art. 2nd. The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-Colonel
+  Fremont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st
+  Article by the Californians, that they shall be guaranteed
+  protection of life and property, whether on parole or otherwise.
+
+  Article 3rd. That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between
+  the United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no
+  Californian or other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath
+  of allegiance.
+
+  Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is
+  permitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or
+  hinderance.
+
+  Article 5th. That, in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal rights
+  and privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of California, as are
+  enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North America.
+
+  Article 6th. All officers, citizens, foreigners or others, shall
+  receive the protection guaranteed by the 2nd Article.
+
+  Article 7th. This capitulation is intended to be no bar in effecting
+  such arrangements as may in future be in justice required by both
+  parties.
+
+  ADDITIONAL ARTICLE.
+
+  Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847.
+
+  That the paroles of all officers, citizens and others, of the United
+  States, and naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing
+  capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from
+  and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all
+  prisoners of both parties are hereby released.
+
+  P.B. READING, Maj. Cal'a. Battalion.
+  LOUIS McLANE, Com'd. Artillery.
+  WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer.
+  JOSE ANTONIO CARILLO, Comd't. of Squadron.
+  AUGUSTIN OLIVERA, Deputado.
+
+  Approved,
+
+  J.C. FREMONT, Lieut.-Col. U.S. Army, and Military Commandant of
+  California.
+
+  ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces
+  of California.
+
+The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and delivered.
+What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none. Nor can I
+speak as to the number of Californians who were in the field under the
+command of Andres Pico when the articles of capitulation were signed,
+for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando.
+Distance 12 miles.
+
+_January 14_.--It commenced raining heavily this morning. Crossing a
+ridge of hills, we entered the magnificent undulating plain surrounding
+the city of Angels, now verdant with a carpet of fresh vegetation.
+Among other plants I noticed the mustard, and an immense quantity of
+the common pepper-grass of our gardens. We passed several warm springs
+which throw up large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. Urging our
+jaded animals through the mud and water, which in places was very deep,
+we reached the town about 3 o'clock.
+
+A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepossessing
+military host, probably never entered a civilized city. In all, except
+our order, deportment, and arms, we might have been mistaken for a
+procession of tatterdemalions, or a tribe of Nomades from Tartary.
+There were not many of us so fortunate as to have in our possession an
+entire outside garment; and several were without hats or shoes, or a
+complete covering to their bodies. But that we had at last reached the
+terminus of a long and laborious march, attended with hardships,
+exposure, and privation rarely suffered, was a matter of such heartfelt
+congratulation, that these comparatively trifling inconveniences were
+not thought of. Men never, probably, in the entire history of military
+transactions, bore these privations with more fortitude or uttered
+fewer complaints.
+
+We had now arrived at the abode of the _celestials_, if the
+interpretation of the name of the place could be considered as
+indicative of the character of its population, and drenched with rain
+and plastered with mud, we entered the "City of the Angels," and
+marched through its principal street to our temporary quarters. We
+found the town, as we expected, in the possession of the United States
+naval and military forces under the command of Commodore Stockton and
+General Kearny, who, after two engagements with six hundred mounted
+Californians on the 8th and 9th, had marched into the city on the 10th.
+The town was almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and most of
+the houses, except those belonging to foreigners, or occupied as
+quarters for the troops, were closed. I met here many of the naval
+officers whose agreeable acquaintance I had made at San Francisco.
+Among others were Lieutenants Thompson, Hunter, Gray and Rhenshaw, and
+Captain Zeilin of the marines, all of whom had marched from San Diego.
+Distance 12 miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+  City of Angels
+  Gardens
+  Vineyards
+  Produce of the vine in California
+  General products of the country
+  Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles
+  San Diego
+  Gold and quicksilver mines
+  Lower California
+  Bituminous springs
+  Wines
+  A Kentuckian among the angels
+  Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey
+  Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego
+  Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton
+  Com. Shubrick's arrival
+  Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed
+  Arrival of Col. Cooke at San Diego.
+
+
+La Ciudad de los Angeles is the largest town in California, containing
+between fifteen hundred and two thousand inhabitants. Its streets are
+laid out without any regard to regularity. The buildings are generally
+constructed of adobes one and two stories high, with flat roofs. The
+public buildings are a church, quartel, and government house. Some of
+the dwelling-houses are frames, and large. Few of them, interiorly or
+exteriorly, have any pretensions to architectural taste, finish, or
+convenience of plan and arrangement. The town is situated about 20 miles
+from the ocean, in a extensive undulating plain, bounded on the north
+by a ridge of elevated hills, on the east by high mountains whose
+summits are now covered with snow, on the west by the ocean, and
+stretching to the south and the south-east as far as the eye can reach.
+The Rio St. Gabriel flows near the town. This stream is skirted with
+numerous vineyards and gardens, inclosed by willow-hedges. The gardens
+produce a great variety of tropical fruits and plants. The yield of the
+vineyards is very abundant; and a large quantity of wines of a good
+quality and flavour, and _aguardiente_, are manufactured here. Some of
+the vineyards, I understand, contain as many as twenty thousand vines.
+The produce of the vine in California will, undoubtedly, in a short
+time form an important item, in its exports and commerce. The soil and
+climate, especially of the southern portion of the country, appear to
+be peculiarly adapted to the culture of the grape.
+
+We found in Los Angeles an abundance of maize, wheat, and _frijoles_,
+showing that the surrounding country is highly productive of these
+important articles of subsistence. There are no mills, however, in this
+vicinity, the universal practice of Californian families being to grind
+their corn by hand; and consequently flour and bread are very scarce,
+and not to be obtained in any considerable quantities. The only garden
+vegetables which I saw while here were onions, potatoes, and _chile
+colorado_, or red pepper, which enters very largely into the _cuisine_
+of the country. I do not doubt, however, that every description of
+garden vegetables can be produced here, in perfection and abundance.
+
+While I remained at Los Angeles, I boarded with two or three other
+officers at the house of a Mexican Californian, the late alcalde of the
+town, whose political functions had ceased. He was a thin, delicate,
+amiable, and very polite gentleman, treating us with much courtesy, for
+which we paid him, when his bill was presented, a very liberal
+compensation. In the morning we were served, on a common deal table,
+with a cup of coffee and a plate of _tortillas_. At eleven o'clock, a
+more substantial meal was provided, consisting of stewed beef, seasoned
+with _chile colorado_, a rib of roasted beef, and a plate of _frijoles_
+with _tortillas_, and a bottle of native wine. Our supper was a second
+edition of the eleven o'clock entertainment.
+
+The town being abandoned by most of its population, and especially by
+the better class of the female portion of it, those who remained, which
+I saw, could not, without injustice, be considered as fair specimens of
+_the angels_, which are reputed here to inhabit. I did not happen to
+see one beautiful or even comely-looking woman in the place; but, as
+the fair descendants of Eve at Los Angeles have an exalted reputation
+for personal charms, doubtless the reason of the invisibility of the
+examples of feminine attractions, so far-famed and so much looked for
+by the sojourner, is to be ascribed to their "unavoidable absence," on
+account of the dangers and casualties of war. At this time, of course,
+everything in regard to society, as it usually exists here, is in a
+state of confusion and disorganization, and no correct conclusions in
+reference to it can be drawn from observation under such circumstances.
+
+The bay of San Pedro, about twenty-five miles south of Los Angeles, is
+the port of the town. The bay affords a good anchorage for vessels of
+any size; but it is not a safe harbour at all times, as I have been
+informed by experienced nautical men on this coast. San Gabriel River
+empties into the bay. The mission of San Gabriel is about twelve miles
+east of Los Angeles. It is represented as an extensive establishment of
+this kind, the lands surrounding and belonging to it being highly
+fertile. The mission of San Luis Rey is situated to the south, about
+midway between Los Angeles and San Diego. This mission, according to
+the descriptions which I have received of it, is more substantial and
+tasteful in its construction than any other in the country; and the
+gardens and grounds belonging to it are now in a high state of
+cultivation.
+
+San Diego is the most southern town in Upper California. It is situated
+on the Bay of San Diego, in latitude 33 deg. north. The country back of it
+is described by those who have travelled through it as sandy and arid,
+and incapable of supporting any considerable population. There are,
+however, it is reported on authority regarded as reliable, rich mines
+of quicksilver, copper, gold, and coal, in the neighbourhood, which, if
+such be the fact, will before long render the place one of considerable
+importance. The harbour, next to that of San Francisco, is the best on
+the Pacific coast of North America, between the Straits of Fuca and
+Acapulco.
+
+For the following interesting account of Lower California I am indebted
+to Rodman M. Price, Esq., purser of the U.S. sloop-of-war Cyane, who
+has been connected with most of the important events which have
+recently taken place in Upper and Lower California, and whose
+observations and opinions are valuable and reliable. It will be seen
+that the observations of Mr. Price differ materially from the generally
+received opinions in reference to Lower California.
+
+"Burlington, N.J., June 7, 1848.
+
+"Dear Sir,--It affords me pleasure to give you all the information I
+have about Lower California, derived from personal observation at
+several of its ports that I have visited, in the U.S. ship Cyane, in
+1846-47.
+
+"Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Lower
+California, is in lat. 22 deg. 45' N., has a bay that affords a good
+harbour and anchorage, perfectly safe nine months in the year; but it
+is open to the eastward, and the hurricanes which sometimes occur
+during July, August, and September, blow the strongest from the
+southeast, so that vessels will not venture in the bay during the
+hurricane season. I have landed twice at the Cape in a small boat, and
+I think a breakwater can be built, at small cost, so as to make a safe
+harbour at all seasons. Stone can be obtained with great ease from
+three cones of rocks rising from the sea, and forming the extreme
+southerly point of the Cape, called the Frayles. Looking to the future
+trade and commerce of the Pacific Ocean, this great headland must
+become a most important point as a depot for coal and merchandise, and
+a most convenient location for vessels trading on that coast to get
+their supplies. Mr. Ritchie, now residing there, supplies a large
+number of whale-ships that cruise off the Cape, annually, with fresh
+provisions, fruits, and water. The supplies are drawn from the valley
+of San Jose twenty miles north of the Cape, as the land in its
+immediate vicinity is mountainous and sterile; but the valley of San
+Jose is extensive and well cultivated, producing the greatest variety
+of vegetables and fruits. The sweet and Irish potato, tomato, cabbage,
+lettuce, beans, peas, beets, and carrots are the vegetables; oranges,
+lemons, bananas, plantains, figs, dates, grapes, pomegranates, and
+olives are its fruits. Good beef and mutton are cheap. A large amount
+of sugar-cane is grown, from which is made _panoche_, a favourite sugar
+with the natives; it is the syrup from the cane boiled down, and run
+into cakes of a pound weight, and in appearance is like our
+maple-sugar.
+
+"_Panoche_, cheese, olives, raisins, dried figs, and dates, put up in
+_ceroons_ of hide, with the great staples of the Californians--hides
+and tallow--make the export of San Jose, which is carried to San Blas
+and Mazatlan, on the opposite coast. This commerce the presence of the
+Cyane interrupted, finding and capturing in the Bay of La Paz, just
+after the receipt of the news of war on that coast in September, 1846,
+sixteen small craft, laid up during the stormy season, engaged in this
+trade.
+
+"I cannot dismiss the valley of San Jose, from which the crew of the
+Cyane have drawn so many luxuries, without alluding to the
+never-failing stream of excellent water that runs through it (to which
+it owes its productiveness) and empties into the Gulf here, and is
+easily obtained for shipping when the surf is low. It is now frequented
+by some of our whale ships, and European vessels bound to Mazatlan with
+cargoes usually stop here to get instructions from their consignees
+before appearing off the port; but vessels do not anchor during the
+three hurricane months. The view from seaward, up this valley, is
+beautiful indeed, being surrounded by high barren mountains, which is
+the general appearance of the whole peninsula, and gives the impression
+that the whole country is without soil, and unproductive. When your eye
+gets a view of this beautiful, fertile, cultivated, rich, green valley,
+producing all the fruits and vegetables of the earth, Lower California
+stock rises. To one that has been at sea for months, on salt grub, the
+sight of this bright spot of cultivated acres, with the turkeys, ducks,
+chickens, eggs, vegetables, and fruit, makes him believe the country an
+_Eldorado_. Following up the coast on the Gulf side, after passing Cape
+Polmo, good anchorage is found between the peninsula and the island of
+Cerralbo. Immediately to the north of this island is the entrance to
+the great and beautiful bay of La Paz. It has two entrances, one to the
+north and one to the south of the island of Espiritu Santo. The
+northern one is the boldest and safest for all craft drawing over
+twelve feet. The town of La Paz is at the bottom or south side of the
+bay, about twenty miles from the mouth. The bay is a large and
+beautiful sheet of water. The harbour of Pichelinque, of perfect
+mill-pond stillness, is formed inside of this bay. The Cyane lay at
+this quiet anchorage several days.
+
+"Pearl-fishing is the chief employment of the inhabitants about the
+bay, and the pearls are said to be of superior quality. I was shown a
+necklace, valued at two thousand dollars, taken in this water. They are
+all found by diving. The _Yake_ Indians are the best divers, going down
+in eight-fathom water. The pearl shells are sent to China, and are
+worth, at La Paz, one dollar and a half the _arroba_, or twenty-five
+pounds. Why it is a submarine diving apparatus has not been employed in
+this fishery, with all its advantages over Indian diving, I cannot say.
+Yankee enterprise has not yet reached this new world. I cannot say this
+either, as a countryman of ours, Mr. Davis, living at Loretta, has been
+a most successful pearl-fisher, employing more Indians than any one
+else engaged in the business. I am sorry to add that he has suffered
+greatly by the war. The country about La Paz is a good grazing country,
+but very dry. The mountains in the vicinity are said to be very rich in
+minerals. Some silver mines near San Antonio, about forty miles south,
+are worked, and produce well. La Paz may export one hundred thousand
+dollars a-year of _platapina_. Gold-dust and virgin gold are brought to
+La Paz. The copper and lead mines are numerous and rich. To the north
+of La Paz are numerous safe and good harbours. Escondida, Loretta, and
+Muleje are all good harbours, formed by the islands in front of the
+main land.
+
+"The island of Carmen, lying in front of Loretta, has a large salt
+lake, which has a solid salt surface of several feet thickness. The
+salt is of good quality, is cut out like ice, and it could supply the
+world. It has heretofore been a monopoly to the governor of Lower
+California, who employed convicts to get out the salt and put it on the
+beach ready for shipping. It is carried about a quarter of a mile, and
+is sent to Mazatlan and San Blas. A large quantity of salt is used in
+producing silver. To the north of Muleje, which is nearly opposite
+Guymas, the gulf is so much narrower that it is a harbour itself. No
+accurate survey has ever been made of it--indeed, all the peninsula, as
+well as the coast of Upper California, is laid down wrong on the
+charts, being about twelve miles too far easterly. The English
+Government now have two naval ships engaged in surveying the Gulf of
+California.
+
+"On the Pacific coast of the peninsula there is the great Bay of
+Magdalena, which has fine harbours, but no water, provisions, or
+inhabitants. Its shores are high barren mountains, said to possess
+great mineral wealth. A fleet of whale-ships have been there during the
+winter months of the last two years, for a new species of whale that
+are found there, represented as rather a small whale, producing forty
+or fifty barrels of oil; and, what is most singular, I was assured, by
+most respectable whaling captains, that the oil is a good paint-oil (an
+entire new quality for fish-oil). Geographically and commercially,
+Lower California must become very valuable. It will be a constant
+source of regret to this country, that it is not included in the treaty
+of peace just made with Mexico. We have held and governed it during the
+war, and the boundary of Upper California cuts the head of the Gulf of
+California, so that Lower California is left entirely disconnected with
+the Mexican territory.
+
+"Cape St. Lucas is the great headland of the Pacific Ocean, and is
+destined to be the Gibraltar and entrepot of that coast, or perhaps La
+Paz may be preferred, on account of its superior harbour. As a
+possession to any foreign power, I think Lower California more valuable
+than the group of the Sandwich Islands. It has as many arable acres as
+that group of islands, with rich mines, pearl-fishing, fine bays and
+harbours, with equal health, and all their productions. As a country,
+it is dry, mountainous, and sterile, yet possessing many fine valleys
+like San Jose, as the old mission establishments indicate. I have heard
+Todas Santos, Commondee, Santa Guadalupe, and others, spoken of as
+being more extensive, and as productive as San Jose.
+
+"I am, most faithfully and truly, yours,
+
+"RODMAN M. PRICE."
+
+In the vicinity of Los Angeles there are a number of warm springs which
+throw out and deposit large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. This
+substance, when it cools, becomes hard and brittle like resin. Around
+some of these springs many acres of ground are covered with this
+deposit to the depth of several feet. It is a principal material in the
+roofing of houses. When thrown upon the fire, it ignites immediately,
+emitting a smoke like that from turpentine, and an odour like that from
+bituminous coal. This mineral, so abundant in California, may one day
+become a valuable article of commerce.
+
+There are no reliable statistics in California. The traveller is
+obliged to form his estimate of matters and things chiefly from his own
+observation. You can place but little reliance upon information derived
+from the population, even when they choose to answer your questions;
+and most generally the response to your inquiries is--"_Quien sabe?_"
+(who knows?) No Californian troubles his brains about these matters.
+The quantity of wines and _aguardiente_ produced by the vineyards and
+distilleries, at and near Los Angeles, must be considerable--basing my
+estimate upon the statement of Mr. Wolfskill, an American gentleman
+residing here, and whose house and vineyard I visited. Mr. W.'s
+vineyard is young, and covers about forty acres of ground, the number
+of vines being 4,000 or 5,000. From the produce of these, he told me,
+that last year he made 180 casks of wine, and the same quantity of
+_aguardiente_. A cask here is sixteen gallons. When the vines mature,
+their produce will be greatly increased. Mr. W.'s vineyard is doubtless
+a model of its kind. It was a delightful recreation to stroll through
+it, and among the tropical fruit-trees bordering its walks. His house,
+too, exhibited an air of cleanliness and comfort, and a convenience of
+arrangement not often met with in this country. He set out for our
+refreshment three or four specimens of his wines, some of which would
+compare favourably with the best French and Madeira wines. The
+_aguardiente_ and peach-brandy, which I tasted, of his manufacture,
+being mellowed by age, were of an excellent flavour. The quantity of
+wine and _aguardiente_ produced in California, I would suppose,
+amounted to 100,000 casks of sixteen gallons, or 1,600,000 gallons.
+This quantity by culture can be increased indefinitely.
+
+It was not possible to obtain at Los Angeles a piece of woollen cloth
+sufficiently large for a pair of pantaloons, or a pair of shoes, which
+would last a week. I succeeded, after searching through all the shops
+of the town, in procuring some black cotton velvet, for four yards of
+which I paid the sum of 12 dollars. In the United States the same
+article would probably have cost 1.50 dollar. For four dollars more I
+succeeded in getting the pantaloons made up by an American tailor, who
+came into the country with General Kearny's forces. A Rocky Mountain
+trapper and trader (Mr. Goodyear), who has established himself near the
+Salt Lake since I passed there last year, fortunately arrived at Los
+Angeles, bringing with him a quantity of dressed deer and elk skins,
+which were purchased for clothing for the nearly naked soldiers.
+
+Among the houses I visited while here, was that of Mr. Pryor, an
+American, and a native of Louisville, Ky. He has been a resident of the
+country between twenty and thirty years, but his Kentucky manners,
+frankness, and hospitality still adhere to him.
+
+I remained at Los Angeles from the 14th to the 29th of January. During
+this time, with the exception of three days, the weather and
+temperature were pleasant. It rained one day, and during two days the
+winds blew strong and cold from the north-west. The nights are cool,
+but fires are not requisite to comfort. The snow-clad mountains, about
+twenty-five or thirty miles to the east of us, contrast singularly with
+the brilliant fresh verdure of the plain.
+
+On the 18th of January General Kearny, with the dragoons, left for San
+Diego. There was understood to be a difference between General Kearny
+and Commodore Stockton, and General Kearny and Colonel Fremont, in
+regard to their respective powers and duties; which, as the whole
+subject has subsequently undergone a thorough investigation, and the
+result made public, it is unnecessary for me to allude to more
+particularly. I did not converse with General Kearny while he was at
+Los Angeles, and consequently possessed no other knowledge of his views
+and intentions, or of the powers with which he had been invested by the
+President, than what I derived from report.
+
+On the 19th, Commodore Stockton and suite, with a small escort, left
+for San Diego. Soon after his departure the battalion was paraded, and
+the appointment of Colonel Fremont as governor of California, and
+Colonel W.H. Russell, as secretary of state, by Commodore Stockton, was
+read to them by Colonel Russell. It was announced, also, that, although
+Colonel Fremont had accepted the office of chief civil magistrate of
+California, he would still retain his military office, and command the
+battalion as heretofore.
+
+Commodore Shubrick, however, arrived at Monterey on the 23rd of
+January, in the U.S. ship Independence, and, ranking above Commodore
+Stockton, assumed the chief command, as appears by the date of a
+general order published at Monterey, and written on board the United
+States ship Independence, on February 1st, thanking the volunteers for
+their services, and announcing the restoration of order. For I should
+state that an insurrection, headed by Don Francisco Sanchez, had broken
+out in the upper portion of California some time towards the last of
+December, which had been put down by a detachment of marines and
+volunteers. The insurgents had committed some outrages, and among other
+acts had taken prisoner Lieutenant W.A. Bartlett, acting Alcalde of San
+Francisco, with some other Americans. An account of the suppression of
+this affair I find in the "Californian" newspaper of February 6th, 1847,
+from which it appears, "that a party of one hundred and one men,
+commanded by Captain Ward Marston, of the United States marines,
+marched from San Francisco on the 29th December in search of the enemy,
+whom they discovered on the 2nd of January, about one hundred in
+number, on the plains of Santa Clara, under the command of Francisco
+Sanchez. An attack was immediately ordered. The enemy was forced to
+retire, which they were able to do in safety, after some resistance, in
+consequence of their superior horses. The affair lasted about an hour,
+during which time we had one marine slightly wounded in the head, one
+volunteer of Captain Weber's command in the leg; and the enemy had one
+horse killed, and some of their forces supposed to be killed or
+wounded. In the evening the enemy sent in a flag of truce, with a
+communication, requesting an interview with the commanding officer of
+the expedition the next day, which was granted, when an armistice was
+entered into, preparatory to a settlement of the difficulties. On the
+3rd, the expedition was reinforced by the mounted Monterey volunteers,
+fifty-five men, under the command of Captain W.A.T. Maddox, and on the
+7th, by the arrival of Lieutenant Grayson with fifteen men, attached to
+Captain Maddox's company. On the 8th a treaty was concluded, by which
+the enemy surrendered Lieutenant Bartlett, and the other prisoners, as
+well as all their arms, including one small field-piece, their
+ammunition and accoutrements, and were permitted to return peaceably to
+their homes, and the expedition to their respective posts."
+
+A list of the expedition which marched from San Francisco is given as
+follows:--Captain Ward Marston, commandant; Assistant-surgeon J. Duval,
+aide-de-camp. A detachment of United States marines, under command of
+Lieutenant Tansil, thirty-four men; artillery, consisting of one
+field-piece, under the charge of Master William F. De Iongh, assisted
+by Mid. John M. Kell, ten men; Interpreter John Pray; mounted company
+of San Jose volunteers, under command of Captain C.M. Weber, Lieutenant
+John Murphy, and acting Lieutenant John Reed, thirty-three men; mounted
+company of Yerba Buena volunteers, under command of Captain William M.
+Smith, Lieutenant John Rose, with a small detachment under Captain J.
+Martin, twelve men.
+
+Thus ended the insurrections, if resistance against invasion can
+properly be so called, in Upper California.
+
+On the 20th January, the force of sailors and marines which had marched
+with Commodore Stockton and General Kearny left Los Angeles, to embark
+at San Pedro for San Diego. On the 21st a national salute was fired by
+the artillery company belonging to the battalion, in honour of Governor
+Fremont. On the 22nd, letters were received from San Diego, stating
+that Colonel Cooke, who followed General Kearny from Santa Fe with a
+force of four hundred Mormon volunteers, had reached the neighbourhood
+of that place. Having applied for my discharge from the battalion as
+soon as we reached Los Angeles, I received it on the 29th, on which
+day, in company with Captain Hastings, I set out on my return to San
+Francisco, designing to leave that place on the first favourable
+opportunity for the United States.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Leave Los Angeles for San Francisco
+  Don Andres Pico
+  A Californian returning from the wars
+  Domestic life at a rancho
+  Women in favour of peace
+  Hospitable treatment
+  Fandango
+  Singular custom
+  Arrive at Santa Barbara
+  Lost in a fog
+  Valley of the Salinas
+  Californians wanting Yankee wives
+  High waters
+  Arrive at San Francisco.
+
+
+We left Los Angeles late in the afternoon of the 29th of January, with
+two Indian vaqueros, on miserable broken-down horses (the best we could
+obtain), and encamped at the deserted rancho at the foot of Couenga
+plain, where the treaty of peace had been concluded. After we had been
+here some time, two Indians came to the house, who had been sent by the
+proprietor of the rancho to herd the cattle. Having nothing to eat with
+us, a tempting offer prevailed upon the Indians to milk one of the
+cows; and we made our supper and our breakfast next morning on milk.
+Both of our Indian vaqueros deserted in the night, carrying with them
+sundry articles of clothing placed in their charge. A few days have
+made a great change in the appearance of the country. The fresh grass
+is now several inches in height, and many flowers are in bloom. The sky
+is bright, and the temperature is delightful.
+
+On the 30th of January, leaving the mission of San Fernando on our
+right, at a distance of eight or ten miles, we followed the usually
+travelled trail next to the hills, on the western side of the plain. As
+we were passing near a rancho, a well-dressed Californian rode out to
+us, and, after examining the horses of our miserable _caballada_,
+politely claimed one of them as his property. He was told that the
+horse was drawn from the public _caballada_, at Los Angeles, and could
+not be given up. This seemed to satisfy him. After some further
+conversation, he informed us, that he was Don Andres Pico, the late
+leader and general of the Californians. The expression of his
+countenance is intelligent and prepossessing, and his address and
+manners courteous and pleasing. Shaking hands, and bidding us a very
+earnest _adios_, he put spurs to his horse and galloped away.
+
+We were soon after overtaken by a young Californian, who appeared at
+first rather doubtful whether or not he should make our acquaintance.
+The ice being broken, however, he became very loquacious and
+communicative. He stated that he was returning to his home near Santa
+Barbara, from the wars, in which he had been engaged against his will.
+The language that he used was, that he, with many others of his
+acquaintances, were forced to take up arms by the leading men of the
+country. He was in the two battles of the 8th and 9th of January, below
+Los Angeles; and he desired never to be in any more battles. He was
+heartily rejoiced that there was peace, and hoped that there would
+never be any more wars. He travelled along with us until afternoon,
+when he fell behind, and we did not see him again until the next day.
+
+After passing two or three deserted houses, we reached an inhabited
+rancho, situated at the extremity of a valley, and near a narrow gorge
+in the hills, about four o'clock, and, our jaded animals performing
+duty with reluctance, we determined to halt for the night, if the
+prospect of obtaining anything to eat (of which we stood in much need)
+was flattering. Riding up to the house, a small adobe, with one room,
+and a shed for a kitchen, the _ranchero_ and the _ranchera_ came out
+and greeted us with a hearty "_Buenas tardes, Senores, paisanos
+amigos_," shaking hands, and inviting us at the same time to alight and
+remain for the night, which invitation we accepted. The kind-hearted
+_ranchera_ immediately set about preparing supper for us. An Indian
+_muchacha_ was seated at the _metate_ (hand-mill), which is one of the
+most important articles of the Californian culinary apparatus. While
+the _muchacha_ ground, or rather crushed, the wheat between the stones,
+the _ranchera_, with a platter-shaped basket, cleansed it of dust,
+chaff, and all impure particles, by tossing the grain in the basket.
+The flour being manufactured and sifted through a _cedazo_, or coarse
+sieve, the labour of kneading the dough was performed by the
+_muchacha_. An iron plate was then placed over a rudely-constructed
+furnace, and the dough, being beaten by hand into _tortillas_ (thin
+cakes), was baked upon this. What would American housewives say to such
+a system as this? The viands being prepared, they were set out upon a
+small table, at which we were invited to seat ourselves. The meal
+consisted of _tortillas_, stewed jerk beef, with _chile_ seasoning,
+milk, and _quesadillas_, or cheesecakes, green and tough as leather.
+However, our appetites were excellent, and we enjoyed the repast with a
+high relish.
+
+Our host and hostess were very inquisitive in regard to the news from
+below, and as to what would be the effects of the conquest of the
+country by the Americans. The man stated that he and all his family had
+refused to join in the late insurrection. We told them that all was
+peaceable now; that there would be no more wars in California; that we
+were all Americans, all Californians--_hermanos, hermanas, amigos_.
+They expressed their delight at this information by numerous
+exclamations.
+
+We asked the woman how much the dress which she wore, a miserable
+calico, cost her? She answered, "Seis pesos" (six dollars). When we
+told her that in a short time, under the American government, she could
+purchase as good a one "_por un peso_," she threw up her hands in
+astonishment, expressing by her features at the same time the most
+unbounded delight. Her entire wardrobe was soon brought forth, and the
+price paid for every article named. She then inquired what would be the
+cost of similar clothing under the American government, which we told
+her. As we replied, exclamation followed upon exclamation, expressive
+of her surprise and pleasure, and the whole was concluded with "_Viva
+los Americanos--viva los Americanos!_" I wore a large coarse woollen
+pea-jacket, which the man was very desirous to obtain, offering for it
+a fine horse. I declined the trade.
+
+In the evening several of the brothers, sisters, and brothers and
+sisters-in-law of the family collected, and the guitar and violin,
+which were suspended from a beam in the house, were taken down, and we
+were entertained by a concert of instrumental and vocal music. Most of
+the tunes were such as are performed at fandangos. Some plaintive airs
+were played and sung with much pathos and expression, the whole party
+joining in the choruses. Although invited to occupy the only room in
+the house, we declined it, and spread our blankets on the outside.
+
+The next morning (January 31st), when we woke, the sun was shining
+bright and warm, and the birds were singing gayly in the grove of
+evergreen oaks near the house. Having made ready to resume our journey,
+as delicately as possible we offered our kind hostess compensation for
+the trouble we had given her, which she declined, saying, that although
+they were not rich, they nevertheless had enough and to spare. We
+however insisted, and she finally accepted, with the condition that we
+would also accept of some of her _quesadillas_ and _tortillas_ to carry
+along with us. The ranchero mounted his horse and rode with us about
+three or four miles, to place us on the right trail, when, after
+inviting us very earnestly to call and see him again, and bidding us an
+affectionate _adios_, he galloped away.
+
+Travelling over a hilly country, and passing the ruins of several
+deserted ranchos, the grounds surrounding which were strewn with the
+bones of slaughtered cattle, we reached, about five o'clock P.M., a
+cluster of houses in the valley of Santa Clara River, ten miles east of
+the mission of San Buenaventura. Here we stopped at the house of a man
+named Sanchez. Our arrival was thought to be worthy of notice, and it
+was accordingly celebrated in the evening by a fandango given at one of
+the houses, to which we were invited. The company, to the number of
+some thirty or forty persons, young and old, were assembled in the
+largest room of the house, the floor being hard clay. The only
+furniture contained in the room was a bed and some benches, upon which
+the company seated themselves when not engaged in dancing.
+
+Among the _senoritas_ assembled were two daughters of an American named
+Chapman, who has been a resident of the country for many years. They
+were fair-skinned, and might be called handsome. An elder and married
+sister was also present. They called themselves Americans, although
+they did not speak our language, and seemed to be more proud of their
+American than their Spanish blood.
+
+A singular custom prevails at these fandangos. It is this: during the
+intervals between the waltzes, quadrilles, and other dances, when the
+company is seated, a young lady takes the floor _solus_, and, after
+showing off her graces for general observation a few minutes, she
+approaches any gentleman she may select, and performs a variety of
+pirouettes and other Terpsichorean movements before him for his
+especial amusement and admiration, until he places on her head his hat
+or cap, as the case may be, when she dances away with it. The hat or
+cap has afterwards to be redeemed by some present, and this usually is
+in money. Not dancing ourselves, we were favoured with numerous special
+exhibitions of this kind, the cost of each of which was _un peso_. With
+a long journey before us, and with purses in a nearly collapsed
+condition, the drafts upon us became so frequent, that at an early
+hour, under a plea of fatigue and want of rest, we thought it prudent
+to beat a retreat, leaving our fair and partial _fandangueras_ to
+bestow their favours upon others better able to bear them. The motions
+of the Californian females of all classes in the dance are highly
+graceful. The waltz is their favourite measure, and in this they appear
+to excel as much as the men do in horsemanship. During the progress of
+the dance, the males and females improvise doggerel rhymes
+complimentary of the personal beauties and graces of those whom they
+admire, or expressive of their love and devotion, which are chanted
+with the music of the instruments, and the whole company join in the
+general chorus at the end of each verse. The din of voices is sometimes
+almost deafening.
+
+Our host accompanied us to our lodgings on the opposite side of the
+way. Beds were spread down under the small porch outside, and we laid
+our bodies upon them, but not to sleep, for the noise of the fandango
+dancers kept us awake until broad daylight, at which time it broke up.
+
+Hiring fresh horses here, and a vaquero to drive our tired animals
+after us, we started about 9 o'clock in the morning, and, passing
+through San Buenaventura, reached Santa Barbara, 45 miles, a little
+after two in the afternoon. We stopped at the house of Mr. Sparks, who
+received us with genuine hospitality. Santa Barbara presented a more
+lively appearance than when we passed here on our way down, most of its
+population having returned to their homes. Procuring fresh but
+miserably poor horses, we resumed our journey on the afternoon of the
+2nd of February, and encamped at the rancho of Dr. Deu, situated on the
+plain of Santa Barbara, near the sea shore. The soil of this plain is
+of the most fertile composition. The fresh grass is now six or eight
+inches high, and the varieties are numerous. Many of the early flowers
+are in bloom. I noticed a large wheat field near the house, and its
+appearance was such as to promise a rich harvest.
+
+The rain fell heavily on the morning of the 3rd, but continuing our
+journey we crossed the St. Ynes Mountain, and, passing the mission by
+that name, reached the rancho of Mr. Faxon after dark, where we halted
+for the night. Around the mission of St. Ynes I noticed, as we passed,
+immense quantities of cattle bones thickly strewn in all directions.
+Acres of ground were white with these remains of the immense herds
+belonging to this mission in the days of its prosperity, slaughtered
+for their hides and tallow. We met two or three elegantly dressed
+Californians to-day, who accosted us with much civility and apparent
+friendliness.
+
+Mr. Faxon is an Englishman by birth, and has resided in California
+about thirty years. He is married to a Californian lady, and has a
+family of interesting and beautiful children. A large portion of the
+land belonging to his rancho is admirably adapted to agriculture, and
+he raises crops of corn and vegetables as well as wheat without
+irrigation. He informed me that the yield of wheat on his rancho was
+fully seventy bushels to the acre. Mr. F. showed me specimens of lead
+ore from which he moulds his bullets, taken from an inexhaustible mine
+in the Tular Valley, some fifty miles distant from this. It is
+certainly the richest ore that I have ever seen, appearing almost like
+the pure metal. He also showed me a caustic alkali, produced by burning
+a plant or shrub which grows in great abundance in the Tular Valley.
+This substance is used by him in the manufacture of soap.
+
+About noon on the 4th, we halted at the rancho of Captain Dana, where
+we procured fresh horses, leaving our wretchedly lean and tired
+animals, and, proceeding on, stopped for the night at the rancho of Mr.
+Branch, an intelligent American, originally from the state of New York,
+who has been settled in the country a number of years. His rancho is
+situated on what is called the _arroyo grande_, a small stream which
+empties into the Pacific some two or three miles from the house. The
+house is new, and constructed after American models of farm-houses,
+with neat and comfortable apartments, chimneys and fireplaces. The
+arable lands here are finely adapted to the culture of maize, wheat,
+and potatoes.
+
+Our horses straying, it was twelve o'clock on the 5th before we found
+them. The rain had fallen steadily and heavily all night, and during
+the forenoon, and was pouring down when we started. We passed through
+the mission of San Luis Obispo just before sunset, intending to halt at
+a rancho about three miles distant in a _canada_. But, the storm
+increasing in strength, it became suddenly so dark in the
+mountain-gorge, that we could not distinguish the trail, and, after
+wandering about some time, vainly attempting to find the house, we were
+compelled to bivouac, wet to our skins, without fire or shelter, and
+the rain pouring down in torrents.
+
+The next morning (Feb. 6.), in hunting up our loose horses, we
+discovered the house about half a mile distant from our camp.
+Continuing our journey, we halted about nine o'clock at a rancho near
+the ruins of Santa Margarita. A solitary Indian was the only occupant
+of the house, and only inhabitant of the place; and he could furnish us
+with no food. Passing two or three other deserted ranches, we reached
+the house of a Mexican about one o'clock, where we obtained a meal of
+fried eggs and _tortillas_, after having been without food thirty
+hours. Late in the afternoon we arrived at the mission of San Miguel,
+now occupied by an Englishman named Reed, his _mestiza_ wife, and one
+child, with two or three Indian vaqueros. Crossing the Salinas in the
+morning (Feb. 7), we continued down its eastern side, and encamped in a
+wide bottom under a large live oak. A _quesadilla_ was all we had to
+eat. This was divided, one-half being reserved for breakfast. The fresh
+vegetation has so much changed the face of the country on this river
+since we passed along here in December, that I scarcely recognise it.
+The grass is six or eight inches high in the bottom, the blades
+standing so thick as to present a matted appearance, and the hills are
+brilliant with flowers--pink, purple, blue, and yellow.
+
+On the 8th we continued down the eastern bank of the Salinas, passing
+through several large and fertile bottoms, and reaching the rancho of
+San Lorenzo about twelve o'clock. This rancho, as we learned from the
+proprietors, is owned by two bachelor brothers, one of whom told me
+that he had not been off his lands but once or twice for several years.
+Large herds of fat cattle and horses were grazing upon the luxuriant
+grasses of the plain, and there were several extensive inclosures sowed
+in wheat, which presented all the indications of an abundant harvest.
+But, with all these natural resources surrounding him the elder brother
+told us that he had nothing to eat in his house but fresh beef. A
+quantity of the choice pieces of a fat beef was roasted by an Indian
+boy, which we enjoyed with all the relish of hungry men. Our host, a
+gentleman of intelligence and politeness, made apology after apology
+for his rude style of living, a principal excuse being that he had no
+wife. He inquired, with apparent earnestness, if we could not send him
+two pretty accomplished and capable American women, whom they could
+marry; and then they would build a fine house, have bread, butter,
+cheese, and all the delicacies, luxuries, and elegancies of life in
+abundance. He appeared to be well pleased with the conquest of the
+country by the Americans, and desirous that they should not give it up.
+When we resumed our journey in the afternoon, he rode with us four or
+five miles to show us the way, and, on taking his leave, invited us to
+return again, when he said he hoped his accommodations would be much
+improved. Riding 15 miles, we halted at a tule-cabin, where we remained
+until two o'clock in the morning, when, the moon shining brightly, we
+mounted our horses, and continued our journey.
+
+We reached the Monterey road just at daylight. My intention had been to
+visit Monterey; but the Salinas being unfordable, and there being no
+ferry, it was not possible to do it without swimming the river, which I
+did not feel inclined to do. Monterey is situated on the bay by that
+name, about 90 miles by water south of San Francisco. The bay affords a
+good anchorage and landing in calm weather, being exposed only to the
+northers, which blow violently. The town contains about 1500
+inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and population.
+Arriving at the rancho of Don Joaquin Gomez, we found no one but a
+_mestiza_ servant at home, and could obtain nothing to eat but a
+_quesadilla_. All the streams, large and small, are much swollen by
+late heavy rains, and the travelling is consequently very laborious and
+difficult. Resting our horses a short time, we crossed the mountains,
+and reached the mission of San Juan Bautista about noon.
+
+At San Juan we met with Messrs. Grayson, Boggs, and a party of
+volunteers returning from Monterey to San Francisco, having been
+discharged since the suppression of the rebellion in this part of
+California, headed by Francisco Sanchez. Here we learned, for the first
+time, the arrival at Monterey of Commodore Shubrick in the ship
+Independence, and of the Lexington with Captain Tomkins's company of
+artillery, and freighted otherwise with munitions, stores, and tools
+necessary to the erection and defence of durable fortifications at
+Monterey and San Francisco.
+
+Seven or eight miles beyond San Juan, we found that the waters of the
+_arroyo_ had risen so as to inundate a wide valley which we were
+compelled to cross. After making several ineffectual attempts to reach
+the opposite side, wading through the water, and sometimes falling into
+deep holes from which it was difficult for either men or horses to
+extricate themselves, we encamped for the night on a small elevation in
+the valley, entirely surrounded by water. Our condition was miserable
+enough. Tired, wet, and hungry, we laid down for the night on the damp
+ground.
+
+The next day (Feb. 10), about eleven o'clock, we succeeded in finding a
+ford across the valley and stream, and procured dinner at a
+soap-factory on the opposite side, belonging to T.O. Larkin, Esq.
+Continuing on, we encamped at a rancho occupied by an Englishman as
+_mayor domo_. He was very glad to see us, and treated us with unbounded
+hospitality, furnishing a superabundance of beef and _frijoles_ for our
+consumption. On the 11th, about three P.M., we arrived at the Pueblo de
+San Jose, and, finding there a launch employed by Messrs. Howard and
+Mellus in collecting hides, bound for San Francisco, we embarked in
+her, and on the morning of the 13th arrived at that place. We found
+lying here the U.S. sloop Warren, and Lieutenant Radford politely
+furnished us with a boat to land. In the afternoon the Cyane, Commander
+Dupont, with Gen. Kearny on board, and the store-ship Erie, with Col.
+Mason on board, arrived in the harbour. Col. Mason is from the United
+States direct, via Panama, and brings late and interesting
+intelligence.
+
+The Cyane and Warren have just returned from a cruise on the southern
+Pacific coast of Mexico. The town of Guymas had been taken by
+bombardment. The Cyane had captured, during her cruize, fourteen
+prizes, besides several guns at San Blas. The boats of the Warren,
+under the command of Lieut. Radford, performed the gallant feat of
+cutting out of the harbour of Mazatlan the Mexican schooner Malek
+Abdel.
+
+Landing in San Francisco, I found my wardrobe, which I had deposited in
+the care of Capt. Leidesdorff, and the first time for nearly five
+months dressed myself in a civilized costume. Having been during that
+time almost constantly in motion, and exposed to many hardships and
+privations, it was, as may be supposed, no small satisfaction to find
+once more a place where I could repose for a short time at least.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  Progress of the town of San Francisco
+  Capt. Dupont
+  Gen. Kearny
+  The presidio
+  Appointed Alcalde
+  Gen. Kearny's proclamation
+  Arrival of Col. Stevenson's regiment
+  Horse-thief Indians
+  Administration of justice in California
+  Sale of lots in San Francisco.
+
+
+Wherever the Anglo-Saxon race plant themselves, progress is certain to
+be displayed in some form or other. Such is their "go-ahead" energy,
+that things cannot stand still where they are, whatever may be the
+circumstances surrounding them. Notwithstanding the wars and
+insurrections, I found the town of San Francisco, on my arrival here,
+visibly improved. An American population had flowed into it; lots,
+which heretofore have been considered almost valueless, were selling at
+high prices; new houses had been built, and were in progress; new
+commercial houses had been established; hotels had been opened for the
+accommodation of the travelling and business public; and the
+publication of a newspaper had been commenced. The little village of
+two hundred souls, when I arrived here in September last, is fast
+becoming a town of importance. Ships freighted with full cargoes are
+entering the port, and landing their merchandise to be disposed of at
+wholesale and retail on shore, instead of the former mode of vending
+them afloat in the harbour. There is a prevailing air of activity,
+enterprise, and energy; and men, in view of the advantageous position
+of the town for commerce, are making large calculations upon the
+future; calculations which I believe will be fully realized.
+
+On the 15th I dined on board the sloop-of-war Cyane, with Commander
+Dupont, to whom I had the good fortune to be the bearer from home of a
+letter of introduction. I say "good fortune," because I conceive it to
+be one of the greatest of social blessings, as well as pleasures, to be
+made acquainted with a truly upright and honourable man--one whose
+integrity never bends to wrongful or pusillanimous expediency;--one
+who, armed intellectually with the panoply of justice, has courage to
+sustain it under any and all circumstances;--one whose ambition is, in
+a public capacity, to serve his country, and not to serve himself;--one
+who waits for his country to judge of his acts, and, if worthy, to
+place the laurel wreath upon his head, disdaining a self-wrought and
+self-assumed coronal. Capt. Dupont is a native of Delaware; and that
+gallant and patriotic state should feel proud of such a son. He is one
+of whom all men, on sea or on land, with whom his duties as an officer
+or citizen of our republic brings him in contact, speak well; and whose
+private virtues, as well as professional merits, are deserving of the
+warmest admiration and the highest honours.
+
+Although I have long known Gen. S.W. Kearny from reputation, and saw
+him at Los Angeles, I was here introduced to him for the first time.
+Gen. K. is a man rising fifty years of age. His height is about five
+feet ten or eleven inches. His figure is all that is required by
+symmetry. His features are regular, almost Grecian; his eye is blue,
+and has an eagle-like expression, when excited by stern or angry
+emotion; but, in ordinary social intercourse, the whole expression of
+his countenance is mild and pleasing, and his manners and conversation
+are unaffected, urbane, and conciliatory, without the slightest
+exhibition of vanity or egotism. He appears the cool, brave, and
+energetic soldier; the strict disciplinarian, without tyranny; the man,
+in short, determined to perform his duty, in whatever situation he may
+be placed, leaving consequences to follow in their natural course.
+These, my first impressions, were fully confirmed by subsequent
+intercourse, in situations and under circumstances which, by
+experience, I have found an unfailing alembic for the trial of
+character--a crucible wherein, if the metal be impure, the drossy
+substances are sure to display themselves. It is not my province to
+extol or pronounce judgment upon his acts; they are a part of the
+military and civil history of our country, and as such will be
+applauded or condemned, according to the estimate that may be placed
+upon them. But I may be allowed to express the opinion, that no man,
+placed under the same circumstances, ever aimed to perform his duty
+with more uprightness and more fidelity to the interests and honour of
+his country, or who, to shed lustre upon his country, ever braved
+greater dangers, or endured more hardships and privations, and all
+without vaunting his performances and sacrifices.
+
+On the 16th, in company of Gen. Kearny, Capt. Turner, and Lieuts.
+Warner and Hallock, of the U.S. Engineer Corps, I rode to the Presidio
+of San Francisco, and the old fortification at the mouth of the bay.
+The presidio is about three miles from the town, and consists of
+several blocks of adobe buildings, covered with files. The walls of
+most of the buildings are crumbling for the want of care in protecting
+them from the annual rains; and without this care they will soon become
+heaps of mud. The fort is erected upon a commanding position, about a
+mile and a half from the entrance to the bay. Its walls are
+substantially constructed of burnt brick, and are of sufficient
+thickness and strength to resist heavy battering. There are nine or ten
+embrasures. Like everything else in the country belonging to the
+public, the fort is fast falling into ruins. There has been no garrison
+here for several years; the guns are dismounted, and half decomposed by
+long exposure to the weather, and from want of care. Some of them have
+sunk into the ground.
+
+On the 20th I was waited upon by Gen. Kearny, and requested to accept
+the office of alcalde, or chief magistrate, of the district of San
+Francisco. There being no opportunity of returning to the United States
+immediately, I accepted of the proposed appointment, and on the 22d was
+sworn into office, my predecessor, Lieut. W.A. Bartlett, of the navy,
+being ordered to his ship by the commanding officer of the squadron.
+
+The annual salute in celebration of the birthday of the immortal and
+illustrious founder of our republic, required by law from all the ships
+of the navy in commission, in whatever part of the world they may be at
+the time, strikes us more forcibly when in a far-off country, as being
+a beautiful and appropriate tribute to the unapproachable virtues and
+heroism of that great benefactor of the human race, than when we are
+nearer home, or upon our own soil. The U.S. ships in the harbour, at
+twelve o'clock on the 22d, each fired a national salute; and the day
+being calm and beautiful, the reports bounded from hill to hill, and
+were echoed and re-echoed until the sound died away, apparently in the
+distant gorges of the Sierra Nevada. This was a voice from the soul of
+WASHINGTON, speaking in majestic and thunder-tones to the green and
+flowery valley, the gentle hills and lofty mountains of California, and
+consecrating them as the future abode of millions upon millions of the
+sons of liberty. The merchant and whale ships lying at anchor, catching
+the enthusiasm, joined in the salute; and for a time the harbour and
+bay in front of the town were enveloped in clouds of gunpowder smoke.
+
+General Kearny left San Francisco, in the frigate Savannah, Captain
+Mervine, on the 23d, for Monterey, and soon after his arrival at that
+place issued the following proclamation:--
+
+  PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.
+
+  The President of the United States having instructed the undersigned
+  to take charge of the civil government of California, he enters upon
+  his duties with an ardent desire to promote, as far as he is able,
+  the interests of the country and the welfare of its inhabitants.
+
+  The undersigned has instructions from the President to respect and
+  protect the religious institutions of California, and to see that
+  the religious rights of the people are in the amplest manner
+  preserved to them, the constitution of the United States allowing
+  every man to worship his Creator in such a manner as his own
+  conscience may dictate to him.
+
+  The undersigned is also instructed to protect the persons and
+  property of the quiet and peaceable inhabitants of the country
+  against all or any of their enemies, whether from abroad or at home;
+  and when he now assures the Californians that it will be his duty
+  and his pleasure to comply with those instructions, he calls upon
+  them all to exert themselves in preserving order and tranquillity,
+  in promoting harmony and concord, and in maintaining the authority
+  and efficiency of the laws.
+
+  It is the wish and design of the United States to provide for
+  California, with the least possible delay, a free government,
+  similar to those in her other territories; and the people will soon
+  be called upon to exercise their rights as freemen, in electing
+  their own representatives, to make such laws as may be deemed best
+  for their interest and welfare. But until this can be done, the laws
+  now in existence, and not in conflict with the constitution of the
+  United States, will be continued until changed by competent
+  authority; and those persons who hold office will continue in the
+  same for the present, provided they swear to support that
+  constitution, and to faithfully perform their duty.
+
+  The undersigned hereby absolves all the inhabitants of California
+  from any further allegiance to the republic of Mexico, and will
+  consider them as citizens of the United States; those who remain
+  quiet and peaceable will be respected in their rights and protected
+  in them. Should any take up arms against or oppose the government of
+  this territory, or instigate others to do so, they will be
+  considered as enemies, and treated accordingly.
+
+  When Mexico forced a war upon the United States, time did not permit
+  the latter to invite the Californians as friends to join her
+  standard, but compelled her to take possession of the country to
+  prevent any European power from seizing upon it, and, in doing so,
+  some excesses and unauthorized acts were no doubt committed by
+  persons employed in the service of the United States, by which a few
+  of the inhabitants have met with a loss of property; such losses
+  will be duly investigated, and those entitled to remuneration will
+  receive it.
+
+  California has for many years suffered greatly from domestic
+  troubles; civil wars have been the poisoned fountains which have
+  sent forth trouble and pestilence over her beautiful land. Now those
+  fountains are dried up; the star-spangled banner floats over
+  California, and as long as the sun continues to shine upon her, so
+  long will it float there, over the natives of the land, as well as
+  others who have found a home in her bosom; and under it agriculture
+  must improve, and the arts and sciences flourish, as seed in a rich
+  and fertile soil.
+
+  The Americans and Californians are now but one people; let us
+  cherish one wish, one hope, and let that be for the peace and quiet
+  of our country. Let us, as a band of brothers, unite and emulate
+  each other in our exertions to benefit and improve this our
+  beautiful, and which soon must be our happy and prosperous, home.
+
+  Done at Monterey, capital of California, this first day of March,
+  A.D. 1847, and in the seventy-first year of independence of the
+  United Suites.
+
+  S.W. KEARNY
+  Brig.-Gen., U.S.A., and Governor of California.
+
+The proclamation of General Kearny gave great satisfaction to the
+native as well as the emigrant population of the country. Several of
+the alcaldes of the district of my jurisdiction, as well as private
+individuals (natives of the country), expressed, by letter and orally,
+their approbation of the sentiments of the proclamation in the warmest
+terms. They said that they were heartily willing to become Americans
+upon these terms, and hoped that there would be the least possible
+delay in admitting them to the rights of American citizenship. There
+was a general expectation among natives as well as foreigners, that a
+representative form of territorial government would be immediately
+established by General Kearny. Why this was not done, is explained by
+the recent publication of General Scott's letter to General Kearny,
+dated November 3rd, 1846, of which Colonel Mason was the bearer, he
+having left the United States on the 7th November. In this letter
+General Scott says:--
+
+"As a guide to the civil governor of Upper California, in our hands,
+see the letter of June 3rd (last), addressed to you by the Secretary of
+War. You will not, however, formally declare the province to be
+annexed. Permanent incorporation of the territory must depend on the
+government of the United States.
+
+"After occupying with our forces all necessary points in Upper
+California, and establishing a temporary civil government therein, as
+well as assuring yourself of its internal tranquillity, and the absence
+of any danger of reconquest on the part of Mexico, you may charge
+Colonel Mason, United States first dragoons, the bearer of this open
+letter, or land officer next in rank to your own, with your several
+duties, and return yourself, with a sufficient escort of troops, to St.
+Louis, Missouri; but the body of the United States dragoons that
+accompanied you to California will remain there until further orders."
+
+The transport ships Thomas H. Perkins, Loo Choo, Susan Drew, and
+Brutus, with Colonel Stevenson's regiment, arrived at San Francisco
+during the months of March and April. These vessels were freighted with
+a vast quantity of munitions, stores, tools, saw-mills, grist-mills,
+etc., etc., to be employed in the fortification of the principal
+harbours on the coast--San Francisco, Monterey, and San Diego. The
+regiment of Col. Stevenson was separated into different commands,
+portions of it being stationed at San Francisco, Sonoma, Monterey,
+Santa Barbara, and Los Angeles; and some companies employed against the
+horse-thief Indians of the Sierra Nevada and the Tulares.
+
+As good an account of these horse-thief Indians, and their
+depredations, as I have seen, I find in the "California Star," of March
+28th, 1847, written by a gentleman who has been a resident of
+California for a number of years, and who has been a sufferer. It is
+subjoined:--
+
+"During the Spanish regime, such a thing as a horse-thief was unknown
+in the country; but as soon as the Mexicans took possession, their
+characteristic anarchy began to prevail, and the Indians to desert from
+the missions. The first Indian horse-thief known in this part of the
+country was a neophyte of the mission of Santa Clara, George, who
+flourished about twenty years ago. He absconded from his mission to the
+river of Stanislaus, of which he was a native. From thence he returned
+to the settlements, and began to steal horses, which at that time were
+very numerous. After pursuing his depredations for some time, he was at
+last pursued and killed on his return from one of his forages. The
+mission of Santa Clara has been, from that time to the present day, the
+greatest nursery for horse thieves, as the Stanislaus river has been
+and is their principal rendezvous. I have taken some pains to inquire
+among some of the most intelligent and respectable of the native
+inhabitants, as to the probable number of horses that have been stolen
+between Monterey and San Francisco within the last twenty years, and
+the result has been that more than one hundred thousand can be
+distinctly enumerated, and that the total amount would probably be
+double that number. Nearly all these horses have been eaten! From the
+river of Stanislaus, as a central point, the evil has spread to the
+north and south, and at present extends from the vicinity of the
+Mickelemes River on the north, to the sources of the St. Joaquin on the
+south. These Indians inhabit all the western declivity of the great
+snowy mountains, within these limits, and have become so habituated to
+living on horseflesh, that it is now with them the principal means of
+subsistence.
+
+"In past time they have been repeatedly pursued, and many of them
+killed, and whole villages destroyed, but, so far from being deterred,
+they are continually becoming more bold and daring in their robberies,
+as horses become scarcer and more carefully guarded. About twenty
+persons have been killed by them within the knowledge of the writer.
+Among others, Mr. Lindsay and Mr. Wilson were killed by them not long
+ago. Only about one month since, they shot and dangerously wounded four
+persons employed on the farm of Mr. Weber, near the Pueblo of St.
+Joseph, and at the same time stole the horses of the farm, and those
+also from the farms of Captain Fisher and Mr. Burnal, in the same
+vicinity; in all, about two hundred head. Within the last ten days
+numerous parties of them have been committing depredations on many of
+the farms in the jurisdiction of the Contra Costa, and scarcely a night
+passes but we hear of their having stolen horses from some one. Three
+days ago, a party of them were met by some young men who had been out
+catching wild horses on the plains of the St. Joaquin, but as they were
+mounted on tired animals, they were only able to recapture the stolen
+horses, but could not overtake the thieves."
+
+It has not been within the scope of my design, in writing out those
+notes, to enter into the minute details of the conquest and occupation
+of California by the forces of the United States. To do so would
+require more space than I have allowed myself, and the matter would be
+more voluminous than interesting or important. My intention has been to
+give such a sketch of the military operations in California, during my
+residence and travels in the country, as to afford to the reader a
+general and correct idea of the events transpiring at the time. No
+important circumstance, I think, has escaped my attention.
+
+Among the officers of the army stationed at San Francisco, with whom I
+became acquainted, were Major Hardie, in command of the troops, Captain
+Folsom, acting quartermaster-general in California, and Lieutenant
+Warner, of the engineer corps. Lieutenant Warner marched with General
+Kearny from the United States, and was at the battle of San Pasqual. I
+have seen the coat which he wore on that occasion, pierced in seven
+different places by the lances of the enemy. He did not make this
+exhibition himself; and I never heard him refer to the subject but
+once, and then it was with the modesty of a veteran campaigner.
+
+The corps of topographical engineers accompanying General Kearny, under
+the command of Captain Emory, will, doubtless, furnish in their report
+much interesting and valuable information. Mr. Stanley, the artist Of
+the expedition, completed his sketches in oil, at San Francisco; and a
+more truthful, interesting, and valuable series of paintings,
+delineating mountain scenery, the floral exhibitions on the route, the
+savage tribes between Santa Fe and California--combined with camp-life
+and marches through the desert and wilderness--has never been, and
+probably never will be, exhibited. Mr. Stanley informed me that he was
+preparing a work on the savage tribes of North America and of the
+islands of the Pacific, which, when completed on his plan, will be the
+most comprehensive and descriptive of the subject of any that has been
+published.
+
+Legal proceedings are much less complex in California than in the
+United States. There is no written statute law in the country. The only
+law books I could find were a digested code entitled, "Laws of Spain
+and the Indies," published in Spain about a hundred years ago, and a
+small pamphlet defining the powers of various judicial officers,
+emanating from the Mexican government since the revolution. A late
+Mexican governor of California, on being required by a magistrate to
+instruct him as to the manner in which he should administer the law
+within his jurisdiction, replied, "_Administer it in accordance with
+the principles of natural right and justice_," and this is the
+foundation of Californian jurisprudence. The local _bandos_, or laws,
+are enacted, adjudicated, and executed by the local magistrates, or
+alcaldes. The alcalde has jurisdiction in all municipal matters, and in
+cases for minor offences, and for debt in sums not over one hundred
+dollars. In cases of heinous or capital offences, the alcalde has
+simply an examining power, the testimony being taken down in writing,
+and transmit-to the _juez de primera instancia_, or first judge of the
+district, before whom the case is tried. Civil actions, for sums over
+one hundred dollars, must also be tried before the _juez de primera
+instancia_, and from him there is an appeal to the prefect, or the
+governor of the province. The trial by _hombres buenos_, or good men,
+is one of the established legal tribunals when either of the parties
+demand it, and is similar to our trial by jury; the difference being in
+the number, the _hombres buenos_ usually consisting of three or five,
+as they may be ordered by the magistrate, or requested by the
+litigants, and our jury of twelve. With honest and intelligent
+magistrates, the system operates advantageously, as justice is speedy
+and certain; but the reverse of this, with corrupt and ignorant
+magistrates, too frequently in power, the consequences of the system
+are as bad as can well be imagined.
+
+The policy of the Mexican government has been to encourage in certain
+localities the erection of pueblos, or towns, and for this purpose they
+have made grants of land to the local authorities, or municipalities,
+within certain defined limits, to be regranted upon application, in
+lots of fifty or one hundred varass, as the case may be, to persons
+declaring their intention to settle and to do business in the town. For
+these grants to individuals a certain sum of money is paid, which goes
+into the treasury of the municipality. The magistrates, however,
+without special permission, have no power to grant lots of land within
+a certain number of feet of or below high-water mark. The power is
+reserved to be exercised by the governor of the province. It being
+necessary for the convenient landing of ships, and for the discharging
+and receiving of their cargoes, that the beach in front of the town of
+San Francisco should be improved with wharfs, etc., etc., and that
+titles should be granted to individuals who otherwise would make no
+durable improvements. As magistrate of the town, in compliance with the
+request of numerous citizens, I solicited from General Kearny, the
+acting governor, a relinquishment, on the part of the general
+government, of the beach lands in front of the town in favour of the
+municipality, under certain conditions. This was granted by the
+Governor, who issued a decree dated 10th March, permitting the sales by
+auction of all such grounds adjacent to the water-side as might be
+found adapted to commercial purposes, with the exception of such lots
+as might be selected for the use of the United States government, by
+its proper officers. The sales accordingly took place, the lots were
+eagerly purchased, and the port has already become a place of
+considerable commercial activity.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE COUNTRY.
+
+  First settlement of the missionaries
+  Population
+  Characteristics of white population
+  Employments
+  Pleasures and amusements
+  Position of women
+  Soil
+  Grasses
+  Vegetable productions
+  Agriculture
+  Fruits
+  Cattle
+  Horses
+  Wild animals
+  Minerals
+  Climate
+  Flora
+  Water-power
+  Timber
+  Religion.
+
+
+It was during the month of November, 1602, the sun just retiring behind
+the distant high land which forms the background of a spacious harbour
+at the southernmost point of Alta California, that a small fleet of
+vessels might have been seen directing their course as if in search of
+a place of anchorage; their light sails drawn up, while the larger
+ones, swelling now and then to the action of the breeze, bore them
+majestically along, forcing their way through the immense and almost
+impenetrable barrier of sea-weed, to a haven which, at the remote
+period stated, was considered the unexplored region of the North. The
+fleet referred to hauled their wind to the shore, and, passing a bluff
+point of land on their left, soon came to anchor; but not until the
+shades of night had cast a gloom over the scene so recently lighted up
+with the gorgeous rays of a setting sun.
+
+This was the commencement, or rather preliminary mark, of civilization
+in this country, by the Spaniards, (if so it can be called,) and on the
+following morning a detachment was landed, accompanied by a friar, to
+make careful investigation of the long ridge of high land which serves
+as a protection to the harbour from the heavy north-west gales. They
+found, as reported, an abundance of small oak and other trees, together
+with a great variety of useful and aromatic herbs; and from its summit
+they beheld the extent and beauty of the port, reaching, as they said,
+full three leagues from where the vessel lay at anchor. A large tent
+was erected on the sandy beach, to answer the purposes of a church,
+where the friar might perform mass, and by directions of the commanding
+officers, the boats were drawn up for repairing, wells were dug,
+parties were sent off to cut wood, while guards were placed at
+convenient distances to give notice of the approach of any hostile
+force. The latter precaution was hardly carried into effect, ere a
+large body of naked Indians were seen moving along the shore, armed
+with bows and arrows. A friar, protected by six soldiers, was
+dispatched to meet them, who, making signs of peace by exhibiting a
+white flag and throwing handfuls of sand high into the air, influenced
+them to lay aside their arms, when, affectionately embracing them, the
+good old friar distributed presents of beads and necklaces, with which
+they eagerly adorned their persons. This manifestation of good feeling
+induced them to draw near to where the commander had landed with his
+men, but perceiving so large a number, they retreated to a neighbouring
+knoll, and from thence sent forward to the Spaniards ten aged females,
+who, possessing apparently so much affability, were presented
+immediately with gifts, and instructed to go and inform their people of
+the friendly disposition cherished for them by the white strangers.
+This was sufficient to implant a free intercourse with the Indians, who
+daily visited the Spaniards, and bartered off their skins and furs in
+exchange for bread and trinkets. But at length the time arrived for the
+fleet to depart, and they proceeded northward, visiting in their course
+Monterey and Mendocino, where the same favourable result attended the
+enterprise as at other places, and they returned in safety to New
+Spain.
+
+So successful had been the character of this expedition throughout the
+entire period of its execution, that an enthusiasm prevailed in the
+minds of the Spaniards, which could only be assuaged by an attempt to
+conquer and christianize the inhabitants of that distant portion of the
+American continent. Many were the fruitless results of the Spanish
+adventurer--numerous were the statements of his toil and labour, till
+at length a formidable attempt, under the patronage and direction of
+Don Gaspar de Portala and Father Junipero Serra, successfully achieved
+the desired object for which it was planned and executed.
+
+At San Diego, where, a century and a half before, the primitive
+navigators under Cortez communed with the rude and unsophisticated
+native--there, where the zealous devotee erected his altar on the
+burning sand, and with offerings of incense and prayer hallowed it to
+God, as the birthplace of Christianity in that region--upon that
+sainted spot commenced the spiritual conquest, the cross was erected,
+and the holy missionaries who accompanied the expedition entered heart
+and soul upon their religious duties. Successful in all they undertook,
+their first establishment in a short time was completed, and drawing
+around it the converted Indians in large numbers, the rude and
+uncultivated fields gave place to agricultural improvement--the arts
+and sciences gradually obtained foundation where before all was
+darkness, and day after day hundreds were added to the folds of the
+holy and apostolic church. Thus triumphantly proceeded the labours of
+the Spanish conquerors! In course of time other institutions were
+founded at Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, where at each
+place a military fortress was erected, which served for their
+protection, and to keep in check such of the natives who were
+disinclined to observe the regulations of the community.
+
+The natives formed an ardent and almost adorable attachment for their
+spiritual fathers, and were happy, quite happy, under their
+jurisdiction. Ever ready to obey them, the labour in the field and
+workshop met with ready compliance, and so prosperous were the
+institutions that many of them became wealthy, in the increase of their
+cattle and great abundance of their granaries. It was no unusual sight
+to behold the plains for leagues literally spotted with bullocks, and
+large fields of corn and wheat covering acres of ground. This state of
+things continued until the period when Mexico underwent a change in its
+political form of government, which so disheartened the feelings of the
+loyal missionaries, that they became regardless of their
+establishments, and suffered them to decline for want of attention to
+their interests. At length, civil discord and anarchy among the
+Californians prepared a more effective measure for their destruction,
+and they were left to the superintendence of individuals who plundered
+them of all that was desirable or capable of removal. Thus, the
+government commenced the robbery, and its hirelings carried it out to
+the letter, destroying and laying waste wherever they were placed. In
+order to give the inhabitants a share of the spoils, some of them were
+permitted to slaughter the cattle by contract, which was an equal
+division of the proceeds, and the contractors were careful, when they
+delivered one hide to a mission, to reserve _two_ for themselves, in
+this way following up the example of their superiors.
+
+This important revolution in the systematic order of the monastic
+institutions took place in 1836, at which period the most important of
+them possessed property, exclusive of their lands and tenements, to the
+value of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At the present day
+they have but a little more than dilapidated walls and restricted
+boundaries of territory. Notwithstanding this wanton devastation of
+property, contrary to the opinion of many who were strongly in favour
+of supporting these religious institutions, the result proved
+beneficial to the country at large. Individual enterprise succeeded as
+the lands became distributed, so that the Californian beheld himself no
+longer dependent on the bounty of his spiritual directors, but, on the
+contrary, he was enabled to give support to them, from the increase and
+abundance of his own possessions.
+
+Subsequent to the expulsion of the Mexicans, numbers of new farms were
+created, and hundreds of Americans were scattered over the country.
+Previous to 1830, the actual possessions of horned cattle by the
+_rancheros_ did not exceed one hundred thousand; but in 1842, according
+to a fair estimate, made by one on the spot, the number had increased
+to four hundred thousand; so that the aggregate is equal to that held
+by the missions when in their most flourishing condition. The present
+number is not much, if any, short of one million.
+
+Presuming a statistical knowledge of this country, before and after the
+missionary institutions were secularized, may be interesting, I will
+insert the following returns of 1831 and 1842, to contrast the same
+with its present condition:--
+
+1st. In 1832 the white population throughout Alta-California did not
+exceed 4,500, while the Indians of the twenty-one missions amounted to
+19,000; in 1842, the former had increased to 7,000, and the latter
+decreased to about 5,000.
+
+2nd. In the former year, the number of horned cattle, including
+individual possessions, amounted to 500,000; in the latter, to 40,000.
+
+3rd. At the same period, the number of sheep, goats, and pigs, was
+321,000; at the latter, 32,000.
+
+4th. In 1831 the number of horses, asses, mules, etc., was 64,000; in
+1842 it was 30,000.
+
+5th. The produce in corn, etc., had decreased in a much greater
+proportion--that of seventy to four.
+
+The amount of duties raised at the customhouse in Monterey, from 1839
+to 1842, was as follows, viz.:--
+
+  1839        85,613 dollars.
+  1840        72,308 dollars
+  1841       101,150 dollars
+  1842        73,729 dollars.
+
+The net amount of revenue seldom exceeding in any year eighty thousand
+dollars; so that, when a deficiency took place, to supply the
+expenditures of government, it had been usual to call upon the missions
+for aid.
+
+The value of the hides and tallow derived from the annual _matanzas_
+may be estimated at 372,000 dollars. These two commodities, with the
+exception of some beaver, sea-otter, and other furs, comprise the most
+important part of the exportations, which in addition, would augment
+the value of exports to 400,000 dollars.
+
+The permanent population of that portion of Upper California situated
+between the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific, I estimate at 25,000. Of
+this number, 8,000 are Hispano-Americans, 5,000 foreigners, chiefly
+from the United States, and 12,000 christianized Indians. There are
+considerable numbers of wild or Gentile Indians, inhabiting the valley
+of the San Joaquin and the gorges of the Sierra, not included in this
+estimate. They are probably as numerous as the Christian Indians. The
+Indian population inhabiting the region of the Great Salt Lake, Mary's
+River, the oases of the Great Desert Basin, and the country bordering
+the Rio Colorado and its tributaries, being spread over a vast extent
+of territory, are scarcely seen, although the aggregate number is
+considerable.
+
+The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom
+they are descended, in other provinces of that country. Physically and
+intellectually, the men, probably, are superior to the same race
+farther south, and inhabiting the countries contiguous to the city of
+Mexico. The intermixture of blood with the Indian and negro races has
+been less, although it is very perceptible.
+
+The men, as a general fact, are well made, with pleasing sprightly
+countenances, and possessing much grace and ease of manners, and
+vivacity of conversation. But hitherto they have had little knowledge
+of the world and of events, beyond what they have heard through Mexico,
+and derived from the supercargoes of merchant-ships and whalemen
+touching upon the coast. There are no public schools in the country--at
+least I never heard of one. There are but few books. General Vallejo
+has a library with many valuable books, and this is the only one I saw,
+although there are others; but they are rare, and confined to a few
+families.
+
+The men are almost constantly on horseback, and as horsemen excel any I
+have seen in other parts of the world. From the nature of their
+pursuits and amusements, they have brought horsemanship to a perfection
+challenging admiration and exciting astonishment. They are trained to
+the horse and the use of the lasso (_riata_, as it is here called) from
+their infancy. The first act of a child, when he is able to stand
+alone, is to throw his toy lasso around the neck of a kitten; his next
+feat is performed on the dog; his next upon a goat or calf; and so on,
+until he mounts the horse, and demonstrates his skill upon horses and
+cattle. The crowning feat of dexterity with the _riata_, and of
+horsemanship, combined with daring courage, is the lassoing of the
+grisly bear. This feat is performed frequently upon this large and
+ferocious animal, but it is sometimes fatal to the performer and his
+horse. Well drilled, with experienced military leaders, such as would
+inspire them with confidence in their skill and prowess, the
+Californians ought to be the finest cavalry in the world. The
+Californian saddle is, I venture to assert, the best that has been
+invented, for the horse and the rider. Seated in one of these, it is
+scarcely possible to be unseated by any ordinary casualty. The
+bridle-bit is clumsily made, but so constructed that the horse is
+compelled to obey the rider upon the slightest intimation. The spurs
+are of immense size, but they answer to an experienced horseman the
+double purpose of exciting the horse, and of maintaining the rider in
+his seat under difficult circumstances.
+
+For the pleasures of the table they care but little. With his horse and
+trappings, his sarape and blanket, a piece of beef and a _tortilla_,
+the Californian is content, so far as his personal comforts are
+concerned. But he is ardent in his pursuit of amusement and pleasure,
+and these consist chiefly in the fandango, the game of monte,
+horse-racing, and bull and bear-baiting. They gamble freely and
+desperately, but pay their losses with the most strict punctuality, at
+any and every sacrifice, and manifest but little concern about them.
+They are obedient to their magistrates, and in all disputed cases
+decided by them, acquiesce without uttering a word of complaint. They
+have been accused of treachery and insincerity. Whatever may have been
+the grounds for these accusations in particular instances, I know not;
+but, judging from my own observation and experience, they are as free
+from these qualities as our own people.
+
+While the men are employed in attending to the herds of cattle and
+horses, and engaged in their other amusements, the women (I speak of
+the middle classes on the ranchos) superintend and perform most of the
+drudgery appertaining to housekeeping, and the cultivation of the
+gardens, from whence are drawn such vegetables as are consumed at the
+table. These are few, consisting of _frijoles_, potatoes, onions, and
+_chiles_. The assistants in these labours are the Indian men and women,
+legally reduced to servitude.
+
+The soil of that portion of California between the Sierra Nevada and
+the Pacific will compare, in point of fertility, with any that I have
+seen elsewhere. As I have already described such portions of it as have
+come under my observation, it is unnecessary for me here to descend to
+particulars. Wheat, barley, and other small grains, with hemp, flax,
+and tobacco, can be produced in all the valleys, without irrigation. To
+produce maize, potatoes, and other garden vegetables, irrigation is
+necessary. Oats and mustard grow spontaneously, with such rankness as
+to be considered nuisances upon the soil. I have forced my way through
+thousands of acres of these, higher than my head when mounted on a
+horse. The oats grow to the summits of the hills, but they are not here
+so tall and rank as in the valleys.
+
+The varieties of grasses are greater than on the Atlantic side of the
+continent, and far more nutritious. I have seen seven different kinds
+of clover, several of them in a dry state, depositing a seed upon the
+ground so abundant as to cover it, which is lapped up by the cattle and
+horses and other animals, as corn or oats, when threshed, would be with
+us. All the grasses, and they cover the entire country, are heavily
+seeded, and, when ripe, are as fattening to stock as the grains which
+we feed to our beef, horses, and hogs. Hence it is unnecessary to the
+sustenance or fattening of stock to raise corn for their consumption.
+
+Agriculture is in its rudest state. The farming implements which have
+been used by the Californians, with few exceptions, are the same as
+were used three hundred years ago, when Mexico was conquered by Cortez.
+A description of them would be tedious. The plough, however, which
+merely scratches the ground, is the fork of a small tree. It is the
+same pattern as the Roman plough, two thousand years ago. Other
+agricultural implements are of the same description. The Americans, and
+other foreigners, are, however, introducing the American plough, and
+other American farming tools, the consequence of which has already
+been, to some extent, to produce a revolution in agriculture. The crops
+of wheat and barley, which I saw about the 1st of June, while passing
+through the country on my journey to the United States, exceeded in
+promise any which I have seen in the United States. It was reported to
+me that Captain Sutter's crop of wheat, for 1847, would amount to
+75,000 bushels.
+
+The natural vegetable productions of California have been sufficiently
+noticed in the course of this work, for the reader to form a correct
+estimate of the capabilities of the soil and climate. It is supposed by
+some, that cotton, sugar, and rice, could be produced here. I do not
+doubt but there are portions of the country where these crops would
+thrive; but I question whether, generally, they could be cultivated to
+advantage. Nearly all the fruits of the temperate and tropical climates
+are produced in perfection in California, as has before been stated.
+
+The principal product of the country has been its cattle and horses.
+The cattle are, I think, the largest and finest I ever saw, and the
+beef is more delicious. There are immense herds of these, to which I
+have previously referred; and their hides and tallow, when slaughtered,
+have hitherto composed the principal exports from the country. If I
+were to hazard an estimate of the number of hides annually exported, it
+would be conjectural, and not worth much. I would suppose, however, at
+this time (1847), that the number would not fall much short of 150,000,
+and a corresponding number of arrobas (25 pounds) of tallow. The
+average value of cattle is about five dollars per head.
+
+The horses and mules are correspondingly numerous with the cattle; and
+although the most of them are used in the country, considerable numbers
+are driven to Sonora, New Mexico, and other southern provinces, and
+some of them to the United States, for a market. They are smaller than
+American horses, and I do not think them equal for continuous hard
+service; but on short trips, for riding, their speed and endurance are
+not often, if ever, equalled by our breed of horses. The value of good
+horses is from ten to twenty-five dollars; of mares, five dollars. The
+prices have, however, since the Americans came into the country, become
+fluctuating, and the value of both horses and cattle is increasing
+rapidly.
+
+The wild animals of California are the wild-horse, the elk, the
+black-tailed deer, antelope, grizly bear, all in large numbers. Added
+to these are the beaver, otter, coyote, hare, squirrel, and the usual
+variety of other small animals. There is not so great a variety of
+small birds as I have seen elsewhere. I do not consider that the
+country presents strong attractions for the ornithologist. But what is
+wanting in variety is made up in numbers. The bays and indentations on
+the coast, as well as the rivers and lakes interior, swarm with myriads
+of wild geese, ducks, swans, and other water birds. The geese and ducks
+are a mongrel race, their plumage being variegated, the same as our
+barn-yard fowls. Some of the islands in the harbour, near San
+Francisco, are white with the _guano_ deposited by these birds; and
+boat-loads of eggs are taken from them. The pheasant and partridge are
+abundant in the mountains.
+
+In regard to the minerals of California, not much is yet known. It has
+been the policy of the owners of land upon which there existed minerals
+to conceal them as much as possible. A reason for this has been, that
+the law of Mexico is such, that if one man discovers a mine of any kind
+upon another man's land, and the proprietor does not work it, the
+former may _denounce_ the mine, and take possession of it, and hold it
+so long as he continues to work it. Hence the proprietors of land upon
+which there are valuable mineral ores conceal their existence as much
+as possible. While in California I saw quicksilver, silver, lead, and
+iron ores, and the specimens were taken from mines said to be
+inexhaustible. From good authority I learned the existence of gold and
+copper mines, the metals being combined; and I saw specimens of coal
+taken from two or three different points, but I do not know what the
+indications were as to quality. Brimstone, saltpetre, muriate and
+carbonate of soda, and bitumen, are abundant. There is little doubt
+that California is as rich in minerals of all kinds as any portion of
+Mexico.
+
+I have taken much pains to describe to the reader, from day to day, and
+at different points during my travels in California, the temperature
+and weather. It is rarely so cold in the settled portions of California
+as to congeal water. But twice only while here I saw ice, and then not
+thicker than window-glass. I saw no snow resting upon the ground. The
+annual rains commence in November, and continue, with intervals of
+pleasant springlike weather, until May. From May to November, usually,
+no rain falls. There are, however, exceptions. Rain sometimes falls in
+August. The thermometer, at any season of the year, rarely sinks below
+50 deg. or rises above 80 deg.. In certain positions on the coast, and
+especially at San Francisco, the winds rise diurnally, and blowing
+fresh upon the shore render the temperature cool in midsummer. In the
+winter the wind blows from the land, and the temperature at these
+points is warmer. These local peculiarities of climate are not
+descriptive of the general climate of the interior.
+
+For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superior
+to that of the coast of California. I was in the country nearly a year,
+exposed much of the time to great hardships and privations, sleeping,
+for the most part, in the open air, and I never felt while there the
+first pang of disease, or the slightest indication of bad health. On
+some portions of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, where
+vegetation is rank, and decays in the autumn, the malaria produces
+chills and fever, but generally the attacks are slight, and yield
+easily to medicine. The atmosphere is so pure and preservative along
+the coast, that I never saw putrified flesh, although I have seen, in
+midsummer, dead carcasses lying exposed to the sun and weather for
+months. They emitted no offensive smell. There is but little disease in
+the country arising from the climate.
+
+The botany and flora of California are rich, and will hereafter form a
+fruitful field of discovery to the naturalist. There are numerous
+plants reported to possess extraordinary medical virtues. The
+"soap-plant" (_amole_) is one which appears to be among the most
+serviceable. The root, which is the saponaceous portion of the plant,
+resembles the onion, but possesses the quality of cleansing linen equal
+to any "oleic soap" manufactured by my friends Cornwall and Brother, of
+Louisville, Ky.
+
+There is another plant in high estimation with the Californians, called
+_canchalagua_, which is held by them as an antidote for all the
+diseases to which they are subject, but in particular for cases of
+fever and ague. For purifying the blood, and regulating the system, I
+think it surpasses all the medicinal herbs that have been brought into
+notice, and it must become, in time, one of the most important articles
+in the practice of medicine. In the season for flowers, which is
+generally during the months of May and June, its pretty pink-coloured
+blossoms form a conspicuous display in the great variety which adorn
+the fields of California.
+
+The water-power in California is ample for any required mill purposes.
+Timber for lumber is not so convenient as is desirable. There is,
+however, a sufficiency of it, which, when improvements are made, will
+be more accessible. The timber on the Sierra Nevada, the most
+magnificent in the world, cannot be, at present, available. The
+evergreen oak, that grows generally in the valleys, is not valuable,
+except for fuel. But in the _canadas_ of the hills, and at several
+places on the coast, particularly at Santa Cruz and Bodega, there is an
+amount of pine and fir, adapted for lumber, that will not be consumed
+for a long time.
+
+The religion of the Californians is the Roman Catholic, and, like the
+people of all Roman Catholic countries, they appear to be devotedly
+attached to the forms of their religion. That there are some, I will
+not say how many, paganish grafts upon the laws, formalities, and
+ceremonies, as prescribed by the "Holy Church Universal" for its
+government and observance, is undeniable, but these probably do not
+materially affect the system. The females, I noticed, were nearly all
+devoutly attached to their religious institutions. I have seen, on
+festival or saint days, the entire floor of a church occupied by pious
+women, with their children, kneeling in devout worship, and chanting
+with much fervency some dismal hymn appertaining to the service. There
+are but few of the Jesuit fathers who established the missions now
+remaining in the country. The services are performed at several of the
+churches that I visited, by native Indians, educated by the _padres_
+previous to their expulsion by the Mexican government.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+OFFICIAL REPORT ON THE GOLD MINES.
+
+
+The following is an official account of a visit paid to the gold region
+in July by Colonel Mason, who had been appointed to the military
+command in California, and made his report to the authorities at
+Washington. It is dated from head-quarters at Monterey, August 17,
+1848.
+
+"Sir,--I have the honour to inform you that, accompanied by Lieut. W.T.
+Sherman, 3rd Artillery, A.A.A. General, I started on the 12th of June
+last to make a tour through the northern part of California. We reached
+San Francisco on the 20th, and found that all, or nearly all, its male
+inhabitants had gone to the mines. The town, which a few months before
+was so busy and thriving, was then almost deserted. Along the whole
+route mills were lying idle, fields of wheat were open to cattle and
+horses, houses vacant, and farms going to waste.
+
+"On the 5th we arrived in the neighbourhood of the mines, and proceeded
+twenty-five miles up the American Fork, to a point on it now known as
+the Lower Mines, or Mormon Diggings. The hill sides were thickly strewn
+with canvas tents and bush-harbours; a store was erected, and several
+boarding shanties in operation. The day was intensely hot, yet about
+200 men were at work in the full glare of the sun, washing for
+gold--some with tin pans, some with close woven Indian baskets, but the
+greater part had a rude machine known as the cradle. This is on
+rockers, six or eight feet long, open at the foot, and its head had a
+coarse grate, or sieve; the bottom is rounded, with small cleets nailed
+across. Four men are required to work this machine; one digs the ground
+in the bank close by the stream; another carries it to the cradle, and
+empties it on the grate; a third gives a violent rocking motion to the
+machine, whilst a fourth dashes on water from the stream itself. The
+sieve keeps the coarse stones from entering the cradle, the current of
+water washes off the earthy matter, and the gravel is gradually carried
+out at the foot of the machine, leaving the gold mixed with a heavy
+fine black sand above the first cleets. The sand and gold mixed
+together are then drawn off through auger holes into a pan below, are
+dried in the sun, and afterwards separated by blowing off the sand. A
+party of four men, thus employed at the Lower Mines, average 100
+dollars a-day. The Indians, and those who have nothing but pans or
+willow baskets, gradually wash out the earth, and separate the gravel
+by hand, leaving nothing but the gold mixed with sand, which is
+separated in the manner before described. The gold in the Lower Mines
+is in fine bright scales, of which I send several specimens.
+
+"As we ascended the south branch of the American fork, the country
+became more broken and mountainous, and twenty-five miles below the
+lower washings the hills rise to about 1000 feet above the level of the
+Sacramento Plain. Here a species of pine occurs, which led to the
+discovery of the gold. Captain Sutter, feeling the great want of
+lumber, contracted in September last with a Mr. Marshall to build a
+saw-mill at that place. It was erected in the course of the past winter
+and spring--a dam and race constructed; but when the water was let on
+the wheel, the tail race was found to be too narrow to permit the water
+to escape with sufficient rapidity. Mr. Marshall, to save labour, let
+the water directly into the race with a strong current, so as to wash
+it wider and deeper. He effected his purpose, and a large bed of mud
+and gravel was carried to the foot of the race. One day Mr. Marshall,
+as he was walking down the race to this deposit of mud, observed some
+glittering particles at its upper edge; he gathered a few, examined
+them, and became satisfied of their value. He then went to the fort,
+told Captain Sutter of his discovery, and they agreed to keep it secret
+until a certain grist-mill of Sutter's was finished. It, however, got
+out and spread like magic. Remarkable success attended the labours of
+the first explorers, and, in a few weeks, hundreds of men were drawn
+thither. At the time of my visit, but little more than three months
+after its first discovery, it was estimated that upwards of four
+thousand people were employed. At the mill there is a fine deposit or
+bank of gravel, which the people respect as the property of Captain
+Sutter, though he pretends to no right to it, and would be perfectly
+satisfied with the simple promise of a pre-emption on account of the
+mill which he has built there at a considerable cost. Mr. Marshall was
+living near the mill, and informed me that many persons were employed
+above and below him; that they used the same machines as at the lower
+washings, and that their success was about the same--ranging from one
+to three ounces of gold per man daily. This gold, too, is in scales a
+little coarser than those of the lower mines. From the mill Mr.
+Marshall guided me up the mountain on the opposite or north bank of the
+south fork, where in the bed of small streams or ravines, now dry, a
+great deal of coarse gold has been found. I there saw several parties
+at work, all of whom were doing very well; a great many specimens were
+shown me, some as heavy as four or five ounces in weight; and I send
+three pieces, labelled No. 5, presented by a Mr. Spence. You will
+perceive that some of the specimens accompanying this hold mechanically
+pieces of quartz--that the surface is rough, and evidently moulded in
+the crevice of a rock. This gold cannot have been carried far by water,
+but must have remained near where it was first deposited from the rock
+that once bound it. I inquired of many if they had encountered the
+metal in its matrix, but in every instance they said they had not; but
+that the gold was invariably mixed with wash-gravel, or lodged in the
+crevices of other rocks. All bore testimony that they had found gold in
+greater or less quantities in the numerous small gullies or ravines
+that occur in that mountainous region. On the 7th of July I left the
+mill, and crossed to a small stream emptying into the American fork,
+three or four miles below the saw-mill. I struck the stream (now known
+as Weber's Creek) at the washings of Sunol and Company. They had about
+thirty Indians employed, whom they pay in merchandise. They were
+getting gold of a character similar to that found in the main fork, and
+doubtless in sufficient quantities to satisfy them. I send you a small
+specimen, presented by this Company, of their gold. From this point we
+proceeded up the stream about eight miles, where we found a great many
+people and Indians, some engaged in the bed of the stream, and others
+in the small side valleys that put into it. These latter are
+exceedingly rich, two ounces being considered an ordinary yield for a
+day's work. A small gutter, not more than 100 yards long by four feet
+wide, and two or three deep, was pointed out to me as the one where two
+men (W. Daly and Percy McCoon) had a short time before obtained. 17,000
+dollars' worth of gold. Captain Weber informed me, that he knew that
+these two men had employed four white men and about 100 Indians, and
+that, at the end of one week's work, they paid off their party, and had
+left 10,000 dollars' worth of this gold. Another small ravine was shown
+me, from which had been taken upwards of 12,000 dollars' worth of gold.
+Hundreds of similar ravines, to all appearances, are as yet untouched.
+I could not have credited these reports had I not seen, in the
+abundance of the precious metal, evidence of their truth. Mr. Neligh,
+an agent of Commodore Stockton, had been at work about three weeks in
+the neighbourhood, and showed me, in bags and bottles, 2000 dollars'
+worth of gold; and Mr. Lyman, a gentleman of education, and worthy of
+every credit, said he had been engaged with four others, with a
+machine, on the American fork, just below Sutter's Mill, that they
+worked eight days, and that his share was at the rate of fifty dollars
+a-day, but hearing that others were doing better at Weber's Place, they
+had removed there, and were then on the point of resuming operations.
+
+"The country on either side of Weber's Creek is much broken up by
+hills, and is intersected in every direction by small streams or
+ravines which contain more or less gold. Those that have been worked
+are barely scratched, and, although thousands of ounces have been
+carried away, I do not consider that a serious impression has been made
+upon the whole. Every day was developing new and richer deposits; and
+the only impression seemed to be, that the metal would be found in such
+abundance as seriously to depreciate in value.
+
+"On the 8th July I returned to the lower mines, and eventually to
+Monterey, where I arrived on the 17th of July. Before leaving Sutter's,
+I satisfied myself that gold existed in the bed of the Feather River,
+in the Yubah and Bear, and in many of the small streams that lie
+between the latter and the American fork; also, that it had been found
+in the Consummes, to the south of the American fork. In each of these
+streams the gold is found in small scales, whereas in the intervening
+mountains it occurs in coarser lumps.
+
+"Mr. Sinclair, whose rancho is three miles above Sutter's on the north
+side of the American, employs about fifty Indians on the north fork,
+not far from its junction with the main stream. He had been engaged
+about five weeks when I saw him, and up to that time his Indians had
+used simply closely-woven willow baskets. His net proceeds (which I
+saw) were about 16,000 dollars' worth of gold. He showed me the
+proceeds of his last week's work--14 lbs. avoirdupois of clean-washed
+gold.
+
+"The principal store at Sutter's fort, that of Brannan and Co., had
+received in payment for goods 36,000 dollars' worth of this gold from
+the 1st of May to the 10th of July. Other merchants had also made
+extensive sales. Large quantities of goods were daily sent forward to
+the mines, as the Indians, heretofore so poor and degraded, have
+suddenly become consumers of the luxuries of life. I before mentioned
+that the greater part of the farmers and rancheros had abandoned their
+fields to go to the mines. This is not the case with Captain Sutter,
+who was carefully gathering his wheat, estimated at 40,000 bushels.
+Flour is already worth, at Sutter's, 36 dollars a-barrel, and will soon
+be 50. Unless large quantities of breadstuffs reach the country much
+suffering will occur; but as each man is now able to pay a large price,
+it is believed the merchants will bring from Chili and the Oregon a
+plentiful supply for the coming winter.
+
+"The most moderate estimate I could obtain from men acquainted with the
+subject was, that upwards of 4,000 men were working in the gold
+district, of whom more than one-half were Indians, and that from 30,000
+to 50,000 dollars' worth of gold, if not more, were daily obtained. The
+entire gold district, with very few exceptions of grants made some
+years ago by the Mexican authorities, is on land belonging to the
+United States. It was a matter of serious reflection to me, how I could
+secure to the Government certain rents or fees for the privilege of
+securing this gold; but upon considering the large extent of country,
+the character of the people engaged, and the small scattered force at
+my command, I resolved not to interfere, but permit all to work freely,
+unless broils and crimes should call for interference.
+
+"The discovery of these vast deposits of gold has entirely changed the
+character of Upper California. Its people, before engaged in
+cultivating their small patches of ground, and guarding their herds of
+cattle and horses, have all gone to the mines, or are on their way
+thither. Labourers of every trade have left their work-benches, and
+tradesmen their shops; sailors desert their ships as fast as they
+arrive on the coast; and several vessels have gone to sea with hardly
+enough hands to spread a sail. Two or three are now at anchor in San
+Francisco, with no crew on board. Many desertions, too, have taken
+place from the garrisons within the influence of these mines;
+twenty-six soldiers have deserted from the post of Sonoma, twenty-four
+from that of San Francisco, and twenty-four from Monterey. I have no
+hesitation now in saying, that there is more gold in the country
+drained by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers than will pay the cost
+of the present war with Mexico a hundred times over. No capital is
+required to obtain this gold, as the labouring man wants nothing but
+his pick and shovel and tin pan, with which to dig and wash the gravel,
+and many frequently pick gold out of the crevices of rocks with their
+knives, in pieces of from one to six ounces.
+
+"Gold is also believed to exist on the eastern slope of the Sierra
+Nevada; and, when at the mines, I was informed by an intelligent Mormon
+that it had been found near the Great Salt Lake by some of his
+fraternity. Nearly all the Mormons are leaving California to go to the
+Salt Lake; and this they surely would not do unless they were sure of
+finding gold there, in the same abundance as they now do on the
+Sacramento.
+
+"I have the honour to be,
+
+"Your most obedient Servant,
+
+"R.B. MASON, Colonel 1st Dragoons, commanding.
+
+"Brigadier-General R. Jones,
+Adjutant-General, U.S.A., Washington, D.C."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  Rate of Wages
+  Mode of procuring the Gold
+  Extent of Gold Region
+  Price of Provisions.
+
+
+It will be seen, from the later accounts that each new report continues
+to realize the wildest expectation. The following letter dated
+Monterey, November 16th, is highly interesting--
+
+"We can now call ourselves citizens of the United States. We have now
+only to go by law, as we formerly went by custom; that is, when
+Congress gives us a government and code. The old foreign residents of
+California, having done very well ten or twenty years without law, care
+but very little whether Congress pays early or late attention to the
+subject. Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic States within the
+last three or four years deem the subject an important one; I only call
+it difficult. The carrying out a code of laws, under existing
+circumstances, is far from being an easy task. The general Government
+may appoint governors, secretaries, and other public functionaries; and
+judges, marshals, collectors, etc., may accept offices with salaries of
+3000 or 4000 dollars per annum; but how they are to obtain their petty
+officers, at half these sums, remains to be seen. The pay of a member
+of Congress will be accepted here by those alone who do not know enough
+to better themselves. Mechanics can now get 10 to 16 dollars per day;
+labourers on the wharfs or elsewhere, 5 to 10 dollars; clerks and
+storekeepers, 1000 to 3000 dollars per annum--some engage to keep store
+during their pleasure at 8 dollars per day, or 1 lb. or 1-1/2 lb. of
+gold per month; cooks and stewards, 60 to 100 dollars per month. In
+fact, labour of every description commands exorbitant prices.
+
+"The Sandwich Islands, Oregon, and Lower California are fast parting
+with their inhabitants, all bound for this coast, and thence to the
+great 'placer' of the Sacramento Valley, where the digging and washing
+of one man that does not produce 100 troy ounces of gold, 23 carats,
+from the size of a half spangle to one pound in a month, sets the
+digger to 'prospecting,' that is, looking for better grounds. Your
+'Paisano' can point out many a man who has, for fifteen to twenty days
+in succession, bagged up five to ten ounces of gold a-day. Our placer,
+or gold region, now extends over 300 or 400 miles of country, embracing
+all the creeks and branches on the east side of the river Sacramento
+and one side of the San Joaquin. In my travels I have, when resting
+under a tree and grazing my horse, seen pieces of pure gold taken from
+crevices of the rocks or slate where we were stopping. On one occasion,
+nooning or refreshing on the side of a stream entirely unknown to
+diggers or 'prospectors,' or rather, if known not attended to, one of
+my companions, while rolling in the sand, said, 'Give me a tin pan; why
+should we not be cooking in gold sand?' He took a pan, filled it with
+sand, washed it out, and produced in five minutes two or three dollars'
+worth of gold, merely saying, as he threw both pan and gold on the
+sand, 'I thought so.' Perhaps it is fair that your readers should
+learn, that, however plenty the Sacramento Valley may afford gold, the
+obtaining of it has its disadvantages. From the 1st of July to the 1st
+of October, more or less, one half of the people will have fever and
+ague, or intermittent fever. In the winter, it is too cold to work in
+the water. Some work in the sand by washing from the surface in a
+wooden bowl, or tin pan; some gouge it out from the rocks or slate; the
+more lazy ones roll about and pick up the large pieces, leaving the
+small gold for the next emigration. The extent of the gold region on
+the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers extends a distance of 800 miles
+in length by 100 in width. It embraces not only gold, but quantities of
+quicksilver in almost general abundance. It is estimated that a small
+population actively engaged in mining operations in that region could
+export 100,000,000 dollars in gold in every year, and that an increased
+population might increase that amount to 300,000,000 dollars annually.
+You may believe me when I say that for some time to come California
+will export, yearly, nearly or quite 500,000 ounces of gold, 22 to 24
+carats fine; some pieces of that will weigh 16 lbs., very many 1 lb.
+Many men who began last June to dig gold with a capital of 50 dollars
+can now show 5000 to 15,000 dollars. I saw a man to-day making
+purchases of dry goods, etc., for his family, lay on the counter a bag
+of raw hide, well sewed up, containing 109 ounces. I observed, 'That is
+a good way to pack gold dust.' He very innocently replied, 'All the
+bags I brought down are that way; I like the size!' Five such bags in
+New York would bring nearly 10,000 dollars. This man left his family
+last August. Three months' digging and washing, producing four or five
+bags, of 100 ounces each, is better than being mate of a vessel at 40
+dollars per month, as the man formerly was. His companion, a Mexican,
+who camped and worked with him, only had two or three cow-hide bags of
+gold. In this tough, but true, golden tale, you must not imagine that
+all men are equally successful. There are some who have done better,
+even to 4000 dollars in a month; many 1000 dollars during the summer;
+and others, who refused to join a company of gold-washers who had a
+cheap-made machine, and receive one ounce per day, that returned to the
+settlement with not a vest pocket-full of gold. Some left with only
+sufficient to pay for a horse and saddle, and pay the physician six
+ounces of gold for one ounce of quinine, calomel, and jalap in
+proportion. An ounce of gold for advice given, six ounces a visit,
+brings the fever and ague to be rather an expensive companion. A 'well'
+man has his proportionate heavy expenses also, to reduce his piles or
+bags of gold. Dry beef in the settlements, at 4 cents per lb., at the
+Placer, 1 to 2 dollars per lb.; salt beef and pork, 50 to 100 dollars
+per barrel; flour, 30 to 75 dollars per barrel; coffee, sugar, and
+rice, 50 cents to 1 dollar per lb. As washing is 50 cents to 1 dollar a
+garment, many prefer throwing away their used-up clothes to paying the
+washerwoman; that is, if they intend returning to the settlements soon,
+where they can purchase more. As to shaving, I have never seen a man at
+the Placer who had time to perform that operation. They do not work on
+Sundays, only brush up the tent, blow out the emery or fine black sand
+from the week's work. Horses that can travel only one day, and from
+that to a week, are from 100 to 300 dollars. Freight charge by launch
+owners for three days' run, 5 dollars per barrel. Wagoners charge 50 to
+100 dollars per load, 20 to 50 miles, on good road. Corn, barley, peas,
+and beans, 10 dollars a-bushel. Common pistols, any price; powder and
+lead very dear. I know a physician who, in San Francisco, purchased a
+common made gold-washer at 20 or 30 dollars, made of 70 or 80 feet of
+boards. At a great expense he boated it up to the first landing on the
+Sacramento, and there met a wagoner bound to one of the diggings with
+an empty wagon, distant about 50 miles. The wagoner would not take up
+the machine under 100 dollars. The doctor had to consent, and bided his
+time. June passed over, rich in gold; all on that creek did wonders,
+when the wagoner fell sick, called on his friend the doctor, whose tent
+was in sight; the doctor came, but would not administer the first dose
+under the old sum of 100 dollars, which was agreed to, under a proviso
+that the following doses should be furnished more moderate. When a
+man's time is worth 100 dollars a-day, to use a spade and tin pan,
+neither doctors nor wagoners can think much of a pound of gold, and you
+may suppose merchants, traders, and pedlars are not slow to make their
+fortunes in these golden times. In San Francisco there is more
+merchandize sold now, monthly, than before in a year. Vessels after
+vessels arrive, land their cargoes, dispose of them, and bag up the
+dust and lay up the vessel, as the crew are soon among the missing. The
+cleanest clear out is where the captain follows the crew. There are
+many vessels in San Francisco that cannot weigh anchor, even with the
+assistance of three or four neighbouring vessels. Supercargoes must
+land cargo on arriving, or have no crew to do it for them. Some vessels
+continue to go to sea, with small crews, at 50 dollars per month for
+green hands. Old hands are too wise for them, and prefer digging an
+ounce or two a-day, and drinking hock and champagne at half an ounce
+a-bottle, and eating bad sea bread at 1 dollar per pound. I have seen a
+captain of a vessel, who, by his old contract in the port whence he
+sailed, was getting 60 dollars per month, paying his cook 75 dollars,
+and offering 100 dollars per month for a steward; his former crew, even
+to his mates, having gone a 'prospecting.' Uncle Sam's ships suffer a
+little the same way, although they offer from 200 to 500 dollars for
+the apprehension of a deserter. The Ohio, however, laid in the port of
+Monterey about a month, and lost only 20 or 30 men. Colonel Stevenson's
+regiment is disbanded, 99 out of 100 of whom have also gone 'prospecting,'
+including the colonel, who arrived in Monterey last month, from his
+last post, and was met by his men at the edge of the town, to escort
+and cheer him into the town. The captains, etc., have bought up
+country carts and oxen, turned drivers, and gone to the Placer. Our
+worthy governor, Colonel of the 1st Dragoons, etc., having plenty of
+carts, wagons, horses, and mules, with a few regulars left, has also
+gone, but under better advantages, for the second or third time, to see
+the Placer and the country, and have justice done to his countrymen or
+himself. Commodore Jones, lately arrived in Monterey, supposed it to be
+the capital, head-quarters, etc., but found not even the Governor left.
+Where head-quarters are may be uncertain, whether in Monterey, Sutter's
+Fort, or in a four-mule wagon travelling over the gold region. Now,
+whether headquarters are freighted with munitions of war, etc., or
+whether the cargo consists of blankets, shirts, etc., to clothe the
+suffering Indians, for the paltry consideration of gold, no one cares
+or knows; but the principle should be, that, if privates can or will be
+off making their thousands, those who are better able should not go
+goldless."
+
+The _Washington Union_ contains a letter from Lieutenant Larkin, dated
+Monterey, November 16, received at the State Department, containing
+further confirmation of the previous despatches, public and private,
+and far outstripping all other news in its exciting character. The gold
+was increasing in size and quality daily. Lumps were found weighing
+from one to two pounds. Several had been heard of weighing as high as
+16 pounds, and one 25 pounds. Many men, who were poor in June, were
+worth 30,000 dollars, by digging and trading with the Indians. 100
+dollars a-day is the average amount realized daily, from July to
+October. Half the diggers were sick with fevers, though not many deaths
+had occurred among them. The Indians would readily give an ounce of
+gold for a common calico shirt; others were selling for ten dollars
+each in specie. The gold region extends over a track of 300 miles, and
+it was not known that it did not extend 1000. A letter from Commodore
+Jones states that many of the petty officers and men had deserted and
+gone in search of the gold. He adds, the Indians were selling gold at
+50 cents the ounce. Many vessels were deserted by captain, cook, and
+seamen. The ship _Isaac Walton_ offered discharged soldiers 50 dollars
+per month to go to Callao, which was refused. She was supplied by
+government sailors. All the naval vessels on the coast were short of
+hands. Nearly the whole of the 3rd Artillery had deserted. Provisions
+were scarce and high; board, 4 dollars a-day; washing, 6 dollars
+a-dozen. Merchants' clerks get from 2000 to 3000 dollars a-year.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+  Route by land
+  Outfit, etc., and advice to intending Emigrants.
+
+
+The route via Independence or St. Joseph, Mo., to Fort Laramie, South
+Pass, Fort Hall, the Sink of Mary's River, etc., etc., the _old_ route.
+Let no emigrant, carrying his family with him, deviate from it, or
+imagine that he can find a better road. This road is the best that has
+yet been discovered, and to the Bay of San Francisco and the Gold
+Region it is much the shortest. The Indians, moreover, on this route,
+have, up to the present time, been so friendly as to commit no acts of
+hostility on the emigrants. The trail is plain and good where there are
+no physical obstructions, and the emigrant, by taking this route, will
+certainly reach his destination in good season and without disaster.
+From our information we would most earnestly advise all emigrants to
+take this trail, without deviation, if they would avoid the fatal
+calamities which almost invariably have attended those who have
+undertaken to explore new routes.
+
+The lightest wagon that can be constructed, of sufficient strength to
+carry 2500 pounds' weight, is the vehicle most desirable. No wagon
+should be loaded over this weight, or if it is, it will be certain to
+stall in the muddy sloughs and crossings on the prairie in the first
+part of the journey. This wagon can be hauled by three or four yokes of
+oxen or six mules. Oxen are usually employed by the emigrants for
+hauling their wagons. They travel about 15 miles per day, and, all
+things considered, are perhaps equal to mules for this service,
+although they cannot travel so fast. They are, however, less expensive,
+and there is not so much danger of their straying and of being stolen
+by the Indians.
+
+Pack-mules can only be employed by parties of men. It would be very
+difficult to transport a party of women and children on pack-mules,
+with the provisions, clothing, and other baggage necessary to their
+comfort. A party of men, however, with pack-mules, can make the journey
+in less time by one month than it can be done in wagons--carrying with
+them, however, nothing more than their provisions, clothing, and
+ammunition.
+
+For parties of _men_ going out, it would be well to haul their wagons,
+provisions, etc., as far as Fort Laramie, or Fort Hall, by mules,
+carrying with them pack-saddles and _alforjases_, or large saddle-bags,
+adapted to the pack-saddle, with ropes for packing, etc., when, if they
+saw proper, they could dispose of their wagons for Indian ponies, and
+pack into California, gaining perhaps two or three weeks' time.
+
+The provisions actually necessary per man are as follows:--
+
+  150 lbs. of flour.
+  150  do.  bacon.
+  25   do.  coffee.
+  30   do.  sugar.
+
+Added to these, the main items, there should be a small quantity of
+rice, 50 or 75 lbs. of crackers, dried peaches, etc., and a keg of
+lard, with salt, pepper, etc., and such other luxuries of light weight
+as the person outfitting chooses to purchase. He will think of them
+before he starts.
+
+Every man should be provided with a good rifle, and, if convenient,
+with a pair of pistols, five pounds of powder, and ten pounds of lead.
+A revolving belt-pistol may be found useful.
+
+With the wagon, there should be carried such carpenter's tools as a
+hand-saw, auger, gimlet, chisel, shaving-knife, etc., an axe, hammer,
+and hatchet. This last weapon every man should have in his belt, with a
+hunter's or a bowie-knife.
+
+From Independence to the first settlement in California, which is near
+the _gold region_, it is about 2050 miles--to San Francisco, 2290
+miles.
+
+The accounts that have been received and published in regard to the
+wealth and productiveness of the gold mines, and other mines in
+California, are undoubtedly true. They are derived from the most
+authentic and reliable sources, and from individuals whose veracity may
+be undoubtingly believed.
+
+When a young man arrives there, he must turn his attention to whatever
+seems to promise the largest recompense for his labour. It is
+impossible in the new state of things produced by the late discoveries,
+and the influx of population, to foresee what this might be. The
+country is rich in agricultural resources, as well as in the precious
+metals, and, with proper enterprise and industry, he could scarcely
+fail to do well.
+
+Families, as well as parties going out, should carry with them good
+tents, to be used after their arrival as houses. The influx of
+population will probably be so great that it will be difficult, if not
+impossible, to obtain other shelter for some time after their arrival.
+The climate of the country, however, even in winter, is so mild that,
+with good tents, comfort is attainable. They should be careful, also,
+to carry as much _subsistence_ into the country as they can; as what
+they purchase there, after their arrival, they will be compelled to pay
+a high price for.
+
+The shortest route to California is unquestionably by the West India
+Mail Packets, which leave Southampton on the 17th of every month. The
+point to which they take passengers is Chagres. This voyage is usually
+accomplished in about 22 to 26 days. From thence passengers proceed
+across the Isthmus, a distance of about 52 miles (say three or four
+days' journey) to Panama, and thence 3500 miles by sea in the Pacific
+to St. Francisco. From the vast number of eager emigrants that it is
+expected will assemble at Panama, it is very probable that great delay
+will be occasioned from there not being sufficient number of vessels to
+convey them to their destination. Unless such adventurers are
+abundantly supplied with money, they will not be able to live in the
+hot desolation of the tropics, where life is but little valued, and
+where death is even less regarded. The entire route by sea (round Cape
+Horn) cannot be less than 18,500 miles, and generally occupies from
+five to six months, yet this route is much cheaper, safer, and in the
+end (from the delay that will occur at Panama) quite as _short_. This
+route, particularly to parties from England, is universally allowed to
+be the best many, dangers and difficulties that attend the route across
+the Isthmus of Panama (not noticing the probable delay) will be
+avoided, and many a one will bitterly regret that he was ever induced
+to attempt (as he perceives ship after ship sailing gallantly on to
+these favoured regions) what he considered a shorter route, from the
+want of the means of transit, while he is himself compelled idly to
+waste his time, a prey to pestilence and to the "hope deferred that
+maketh the heart sick."
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+The following are letters addressed to the Government at Washington,
+and other communications, all of which, it will be seen, are fully
+confirmatory of the accounts given in the preceding pages; with other
+details of interest relative to the state of the gold districts:
+
+_Extract from a Letter from Mr. Larkin, United States Consul at
+Monterey, to Mr. Buchanan, Secretary of State at Washington._
+
+"San Francisco (Upper California), June 1, 1848.
+
+"Sir: * * * I have to report to the State Department one of the most
+astonishing excitements and state of affairs now existing in this
+country, that, perhaps, has ever been brought to the notice of the
+Government. On the American fork of the Sacramento and Feather River,
+another branch of the same, and the adjoining lands, there has been
+within the present year discovered a placer, a vast tract of land
+containing gold, in small particles. This gold, thus far, has been
+taken on the bank of the river, from the surface to eighteen inches in
+depth, and is supposed deeper, and to extend over the country.
+
+"On account of the inconvenience of washing, the people have, up to
+this time, only gathered the metal on the banks, which is done simply
+with a shovel, filling a shallow dish, bowl, basket, or tin pan, with a
+quantity of black sand, similar to the class used on paper, and washing
+out the sand by movement of the vessel. It is now two or three weeks
+since the men employed in those washings have appeared in this town
+with gold, to exchange for merchandise and provisions. I presume nearly
+20,000 dollars of this gold has as yet been so exchanged. Some 200 or
+300 men have remained up the river, or are gone to their homes, for the
+purpose of returning to the Placer, and washing immediately with
+shovels, picks, and baskets; many of them, for the first few weeks,
+depending on borrowing from others. I have seen the written statement
+of the work of one man for sixteen days, which averaged 25 dollars per
+day; others have, with a shovel and pan, or wooden bowl, washed out 10
+dollars to even 50 dollars in a day. There are now some men yet washing
+who have 500 dollars to 1,000 dollars. As they have to stand two feet
+deep in the river, they work but a few hours in the day, and not every
+day in the week.
+
+"A few men have been down in boats to this port, spending twenty to
+thirty ounces of gold each--about 300 dollars. I am confident that this
+town (San Francisco) has one-half of its tenements empty, locked up
+with the furniture. The owners--storekeepers, lawyers, mechanics, and
+labourers--all gone to the Sacramento with their families. Small
+parties, of five to fifteen men, have sent to this town and offered
+cooks ten to fifteen dollars per day for a few weeks. Mechanics and
+teamsters, earning the year past five to eight dollars per day, have
+struck and gone. Several U.S. volunteers have deserted. U.S. barque
+Anita, belonging to the Army, now at anchor here, has but six men. One
+Sandwich Island vessel in port lost all her men; and was obliged to
+engaged another crew at 50 dollars for the run of fifteen days to the
+Islands.
+
+"One American captain having his men shipped on this coast in such a
+manner that they could leave at any time, had them all on the eve of
+quitting, when he agreed to continue their pay and food; leaving one on
+board, he took a boat and carried them to the gold regions--furnishing
+tools and giving his men one-third. They have been gone a week. Common
+spades and shovels, one month ago worth 1 dollar, will now bring 10
+dollars, at the gold regions. I am informed 50 dollars has been offered
+for one. Should this gold continue as represented, this town and others
+would be depopulated. Clerks' wages have risen from 600 dollars to 1000
+per annum, and board; cooks, 25 dollars to 30 dollars per month. This
+sum will not be any inducement a month longer, unless the fever and
+ague appears among the washers. The _Californian_, printed here,
+stopped this week. The _Star_ newspaper office, where the new laws of
+Governor Mason, for this country, are printing, has but one man left. A
+merchant, lately from China, has even lost his China servants. Should
+the excitement continue through the year, and the whale-ships visit San
+Francisco, I think they will lose most all their crews. How Col. Mason
+can retain his men, unless he puts a force on the spot, I know not.
+
+"I have seen several pounds of this gold, and consider it very pure,
+worth in New York 17 dollars to 18 dollars per ounce; 14 dollars to 16
+dollars, in merchandise, is paid for it here. What good or bad effect
+this gold mania will have on California, I cannot foretell. It may end
+this year; but I am informed that it will continue many years.
+Mechanics now in this town are only wailing to finish some rude
+machinery, to enable them to obtain the gold more expeditiously, and
+free from working in the river. Up to this time, but few Californians
+have gone to the mines, being afraid the Americans will soon have
+trouble among themselves, and cause disturbance to all around. I have
+seen some of the black sand, as taken from the bottom of the river (I
+should think in the States it would bring 25 to 50 cents per pound),
+containing many pieces of gold; they are from the size of the head of a
+pin to the weight of the eighth of an ounce. I have seen some weighing
+one-quarter of an ounce (4 dollars). Although my statements are almost
+incredible, I believe I am within the statements believed by every one
+here. Ten days back, the excitement had not reached Monterey. I shall,
+within a few days, visit this gold mine, and will make another report
+to you. Inclosed you will have a specimen.
+
+"I have the honour to be, very respectfully,
+
+"THOMAS O. LARKIN.
+
+"P.S. This placer, or gold region, is situated on public land."
+
+
+"_Mr. Larkin to Mr. Buchanan._
+
+"Monterey, California, June 28, 1848.
+
+"SIR: My last dispatch to the State Department was written in San
+Francisco, the 1st of this month. In that I had the honour to give some
+information respecting the new 'placer,' or gold regions lately
+discovered on the branches of the Sacramento River. Since the writing
+of that dispatch I have visited a part of the gold region, and found it
+all I had heard, and much more than I anticipated. The part that I
+visited was upon a fork of the American River, a branch of the
+Sacramento, joining the main river at Sutter's Fort. The place in which
+I found the people digging was about twenty-five miles from the fort by
+land.
+
+"I have reason to believe that gold will be found on many branches of
+the Sacramento and the Joaquin rivers. People are already scattered
+over one hundred miles of land, and it is supposed that the 'placer'
+extends from river to river. At present the workmen are employed within
+ten or twenty yards of the river, that they may be convenient to water.
+On Feather river there are several branches upon which the people are
+digging for gold. This is two or three days' ride from the place I
+visited.
+
+"At my camping place I found, on a surface of two or three miles on the
+banks of the river, some fifty tents, mostly owned by Americans. These
+had their families. There are no Californians who have taken their
+families as yet to the gold regions; but few or none will ever do it;
+some from New Mexico may do so next year, but no Californians.
+
+"I was two nights at a tent occupied by eight Americans, viz., two
+sailors, one clerk, two carpenters, and three daily workmen. These men
+were in company; had two machines, each made from one hundred feet of
+boards (worth there 150 dollars, in Monterey 15 dollars--being one
+day's work), made similar to a child's cradle, ten feet long, without
+the ends.
+
+"The two evenings I saw these eight men bring to their tents the labour
+of the day. I suppose they made each 50 dollars per day; their own
+calculation was two pounds of gold a-day--four ounces to a man--64
+dollars. I saw two brothers that worked together, and only worked by
+washing the dirt in a tin pan, weigh the gold they obtained in one day;
+the result was 7 dollars to one, 82 dollars to the other. There were
+two reasons for this difference; one man worked less hours than the
+other, and by chance had ground less impregnated with gold. I give this
+statement as an extreme case. During my visit I was an interpreter for
+a native of Monterey, who was purchasing a machine or canoe. I first
+tried to purchase boards and hire a carpenter for him. There were but a
+few hundred feet of boards to be had; for these the owner asked me 50
+dollars per hundred (500 dollars per thousand), and a carpenter washing
+gold dust demanded 50 dollars per day for working. I at last purchased
+a log dug out, with a riddle and sieve made of willow boughs on it, for
+120 dollars, payable in gold dust at 14 dollars per ounce. The owner
+excused himself for the price, by saying he was two days making it, and
+even then demanded the use of it until sunset. My Californian has told
+me since, that himself, partner, and two Indians, obtained with this
+canoe eight ounces the first and five ounces the second day.
+
+"I am of the opinion that on the American fork, Feather River, and
+Copimes River, there are near two thousand people, nine-tenths of them
+foreigners. Perhaps there are one hundred families, who have their
+teams, wagons, and tents. Many persons are waiting to see whether the
+months of July and August will be sickly, before they leave their
+present business to go to the 'Placer.' The discovery of this gold was
+made by some Mormons, in January or February, who for a time kept it a
+secret; the majority of those who are working there began in May. In
+most every instance the men, after digging a few days, have been
+compelled to leave for the purpose of returning home to see their
+families, arrange their business, and purchase provisions. I feel
+confident in saying there are fifty men in this 'Placer' who have on an
+average 1,000 dollars each, obtained in May and June. I have not met
+with any person who had been fully employed in washing gold one month;
+most, however, appear to have averaged an ounce per day. I think there
+must, by this time, be over 1,000 men at work upon the different
+branches of the Sacramento; putting their gains at 10,000 dollars per
+day, for six days in the week, appears to me not overrated.
+
+"Should this news reach the emigration of California and Oregon, now on
+the road, connected with the Indian wars, now impoverishing the latter
+country, we should have a large addition to our population; and should
+the richness of the gold region continue, our emigration in 1849 will
+be many thousands, and in 1850 still more. If our countrymen in
+California, as clerks, mechanics, and workmen, will forsake employment
+at from 2 dollars to 6 dollars per day, how many more of the same class
+in the Atlantic States, earning much less, will leave for this country
+under such prospects? It is the opinion of many who have visited the
+gold regions the past and present months, that the ground will afford
+gold for many years, perhaps for a century. From my own examination of
+the rivers and their banks, I am of opinion that, at least for a few
+years, the golden products will equal the present year. However, as
+neither men of science, nor the labourers now at work, have made any
+explorations of consequence, it is a matter of impossibility to give
+any opinion as to the extent and richness of this part of California.
+Every Mexican who has seen the place says throughout their Republic
+there has never been any 'placer like this one.'
+
+"Could Mr. Polk and yourself see California as we now see it, you would
+think that a few thousand people, on 100 miles square of the Sacramento
+valley, would yearly turn out of this river the whole price our country
+pays for the acquired territory. When I finished my first letter I
+doubted my own writing, and, to be better satisfied, showed it to one
+of the principal merchants of San Francisco, and to Captain Fulsom, of
+the Quartermaster's Department, who decided at once I was far below the
+reality. You certainly will suppose, from my two letters, that I am,
+like others, led away by the excitement of the day. I think I am not.
+In my last I inclosed a small sample of the gold dust, and I find my
+only error was in putting a value to the sand. At that time I was not
+aware how the gold was found; I now can describe the mode of collecting
+it.
+
+"A person without a machine, after digging off one or two feet of the
+upper ground, near the water (in some cases they take the top earth),
+throws into a tin pan or wooden bowl a shovel full of loose dirt and
+stones; then placing the basin an inch or two under water, continues to
+stir up the dirt with his hand in such a manner that the running water
+will carry off the light earths, occasionally, with his hand, throwing
+out the stones; after an operation of this kind for twenty or thirty
+minutes, a spoonful of small black sand remains; this is on a
+handkerchief or cloth dried in the sun, the emerge is blown off,
+leaving the pure gold. I have the pleasure of inclosing a paper of this
+sand and gold, which I from a bucket of dirt and stones, in
+half-an-hour, standing at the edge of the water, washed out myself. The
+value of it may be 2 dollars or 3 dollars.
+
+"The size of the gold depends in some measure upon the river from which
+it is taken; the banks of one river having larger grains of gold than
+another. I presume more than one half of the gold put into pans or
+machines is washed out and goes down the stream; this is of no
+consequence to the washers, who care only for the present time. Some
+have formed companies of four or five men, and have a rough-made
+machine put together in a day, which worked to much advantage, yet many
+prefer to work alone, with a wooden bowl or tin pan, worth fifteen or
+twenty cents in the States, but eight to sixteen dollars at the gold
+region. As the workmen continue, and materials can be obtained,
+improvements will take place in the mode of obtaining gold; at present
+it is obtained by standing in the water, and with much severe labour,
+or such as is called here severe labour.
+
+"How long this gathering of gold by the handful will continue here, or
+the future effect it will have on California, I cannot say.
+Three-fourths of the houses in the town on the bay of San Francisco are
+deserted. Houses are sold at the price of the ground lots. The effects
+are this week showing themselves in Monterey. Almost every house I had
+hired out is given up. Every blacksmith, carpenter, and lawyer is
+leaving; brick-yards, saw-mills and ranches are left perfectly alone. A
+large number of the volunteers at San Francisco and Sonoma have
+deserted; some have been retaken and brought back; public and private
+vessels are losing their crews; my clerks have had 100 per cent.
+advance offered them on their wages to accept employment. A complete
+revolution in the ordinary state of affairs is taking place; both of
+our newspapers are discontinued from want of workmen and the loss of
+their agencies; the Alcaldes have left San Francisco, and I believe
+Sonoma likewise; the former place has not a Justice of the Peace left.
+
+"The second Alcalde of Monterey to-day joins the keepers of our
+principal hotel, who have closed their office and house, and will leave
+to-morrow for the golden rivers. I saw on the ground a lawyer who was
+last year Attorney-General of the King of the Sandwich Islands, digging
+and washing out his ounce and a half per day; near him can be found
+most all his brethren of the long robe, working in the same occupation.
+
+"To conclude; my letter is long, but I could not well describe what I
+have seen in less words, and I now can believe that my account may be
+doubted. If the affair proves a bubble, a mere excitement, I know not
+how we can all be deceived, as we are situated. Governor Mason and his
+staff have left Monterey to visit the place in question, and will, I
+suppose, soon forward to his department his views and opinions on this
+subject. Most of the land, where gold has been discovered, is public
+land; there are on different rivers some private grants. I have three
+such purchased in 1846 and 1847, but have not learned that any private
+lands have produced gold, though they may hereafter do so. I have the
+honour, dear sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
+
+"THOMAS O. LARKIN."
+
+
+DESERTION FROM THE SHIPS.--We collate from other sources several other
+interesting letters and documents, and which will be found well worth
+perusal.
+
+"Monterey, Sept. 15, 1848.
+
+"Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn, and Co.:
+
+"Sirs--I embrace this opportunity to inform you of my new situation,
+which is bad enough. All hands have left me but two; they will stay
+till the cargo is landed and ballast in, then they will go. Both mates
+will leave in a few days, and then I will have only the two boys, and I
+am fearful that they will run. I have got all landed but 900 barrels;
+on Monday I shall get off ballast if the weather is good. There's no
+help to be got at any price. The store-ship that sailed from here ten
+days ago took three of my men at 100 dollars per month; there is
+nothing that anchors here but what loses their men. I have had a hard
+time in landing the cargo; I go in the boat every load. If I can get it
+on shore I shall save the freight. As for the ship she will lay here
+for a long time, for there's not the least chance of getting a crew.
+The coasters are giving 100 dollars per month. All the ships at San
+Francisco have stripped and laid up. The Flora, of New London, is at
+San Francisco; all left. You probably have heard of the situation of
+things here. A sailor will be up at the mines for two months, work on
+his own account, and come down with from two to three thousand dollars,
+and those that go in parties do much better. I have been offered 20
+dollars per day to go, by one of the first men here, and work one year.
+It is impossible for me to give you any idea of the gold that is got
+here. Yours respectfully,
+
+"CHRISTOPHER ALLEN,
+Captain of the ship Isaac Walton."
+
+
+Another letter dated St. Francisco, September 1st, contains the
+following:--
+
+"A day or two ago the Flora, Captain Potter, of New London, anchored in
+Whaleman's Harbour, on the opposite side of the Bay. Yesterday the
+captain, fearing he would lose all his men, weighed anchor, intending
+to go to sea. After getting under weigh, the crew, finding the ship was
+heading out, refused to do duty, and the captain was forced to return
+and anchor here. Last night nine of the crew gagged the watch, lowered
+one of the boats, and rowed off. They have not been heard of since, and
+are now probably half way to the gold region. The Flora is twenty-six
+months out, with only 750 bbls. of oil. Every vessel that comes in here
+now is sure to lose her crew, and this state of things must continue
+until the squadron arrives, when, if the men-o'-war-men do not run off
+too, merchant-men may retain their crews.
+
+"The whale-ship Euphrates, of New Bedford, left here a few weeks since,
+for the United States, to touch on the coast of Chili to recruit. The
+Minerva, Captain Perry, of New Bedford, has abandoned the whaling
+business, and is now on his way hence to Valparaiso for a cargo of
+merchandise. Although two large ships, four barks, and eight or ten
+brigs and schooners have arrived here since my return from the mineral
+country, about four weeks since, with large cargoes of merchandise,
+their entire invoices have been sold. Vessels are daily arriving from
+the islands and ports upon the coast, laden with goods and passengers,
+the latter destined for the gold-washings.
+
+"Much sickness prevails among the gold-diggers; many have left the
+ground sick, and many more have discontinued their labours for the
+present, and gone into more healthy portions of the country, intending
+to return after the sickly season has passed. From the best information
+I can obtain, there are from two to three thousand persons at work at
+the gold-washings with the same success as heretofore."
+
+
+THE DIGGINGS.--Extract of a letter from Monterey, Aug. 29.
+
+"At present the people are running over the country and picking it out
+of the earth here and there, just as a thousand hogs, let loose in a
+forest, would root up ground-nuts. Some get eight or ten ounces a-day,
+and the least active one or two. They make the most who employ the wild
+Indians to hunt it for them. There is one man who has sixty Indians in
+his employ; his profits are a dollar a-minute. The wild Indians know
+nothing of its value, and wonder what the pale-faces want to do with
+it; they will give an ounce of it for the same weight of coined silver,
+or a thimbleful of glass beads, or a glass of grog. And white men
+themselves often give an ounce of it, which is worth at our mint 18
+dollars, or more, for a bottle of brandy, a bottle of soda-powders, or
+a plug of tobacco.
+
+"As to the quantity which the diggers get, take a few facts as
+evidence. I know seven men who worked seven weeks and two days, Sundays
+excepted, on Feather River; they employed on an average fifty Indians,
+and got out in these seven weeks and two days 275 pounds of pure gold.
+I know the men, and have seen the gold, and know what they state to be
+a fact--so stick a pin there. I know ten other men who worked ten days
+in company, employed no Indians, and averaged in these ten days 1500
+dollars each; so stick another pin there. I know another man who got
+out of a basin in a rock, not larger than a wash-bowl, two pounds and a
+half of gold in fifteen minutes; so stick another pin there! Not one of
+these statements would I believe, did I not know the men personally,
+and know them to be plain matter-of-fact men--men who open a vein of
+gold just as coolly as you would a potato-hill."
+
+
+ASSAY OF THE GOLD.--Lieutenant Loeser having arrived at Washington with
+specimens of the gold from the diggings, the following account of its
+quality appeared in the "Washington Union," the government organ:--
+
+"Understanding last evening that the lieutenant had arrived in this
+city, and had deposited in the War Office the precious specimens he had
+brought with him, we called to see them, and to free our mind from all
+hesitation as to the genuineness of the metal. We had seen doubts
+expressed in some of our exchange papers; and we readily admit that the
+accounts so nearly approached the miraculous, that we were relieved by
+the evidence of our own senses on the subject. The specimens have all
+the appearance of the native gold we had seen from the mines of North
+Carolina and Virginia, and we are informed that the Secretary would
+send the small chest, called a caddy, containing about 3,000 dollars'
+worth of gold, in lumps and scales, to the mint, to be melted into
+coins and bars. The specimens have come to Washington as they were
+extracted from the materials of the placer. The heaviest piece brought
+by Lieutenant Loeser weighs a little more than two ounces; but the
+varied contents of the casket (as described in Colonel Mason's
+schedule) will be sent off to-day, by special messenger, to the mint at
+Philadelphia for assay, and early next week we hope to have the
+pleasure of laying the result before our readers." The assay was
+subsequently made, and the result officially announced. The gold is
+declared to be from 3 to 8 per cent. purer than American standard gold
+coin.
+
+
+ANOTHER ASSAY.--The following is the report of an assay of Californian
+gold dust, received by Mr. T.O. Larkin, United States consul at
+Monterey.
+
+"New York, Dec. 8, 1848.
+
+"Sir,--I have assayed the portion of gold dust, or metal, from
+California, which you sent me, and the result shows that it is fully
+equal to any found in our Southern gold mines. I return you 10-3/4
+grains out of the 12 which I have tested, the value of which is 45
+cents. It is 21-1/2 carats fine--within half a carat of the quality of
+English sovereigns or American eagles--and is almost ready to go to the
+mint. The finest gold metal we get is from Africa, which is 22-1/2 to
+23 carats fine. In Virginia we have mines where the quality of the gold
+is much inferior--some of it so low as 19 carats--and in Georgia the
+mines produce it nearly 22 carats fine. The gold of California, which I
+have now assayed, is fully equal to that of any, and much superior to
+some produced from the mines in our Southern States.
+
+"JOHN WARWICK,
+Smelter and refiner, 17, John-Street."
+
+
+INCONVENIENCES OF TOO MUCH GOLD.--The following letter (January 12)
+from Captain Fulsom, of the United States Service, writing from San
+Francisco, confirms the fact of the difficulty of procuring servants,
+or indeed manual assistance of any description:--
+
+"All sorts of labour is got at enormous rates of compensation. Common
+clerks and salesmen in the stores about town often receive as high as
+2500 dollars and their board. The principal waiter in the hotel where I
+board is paid 1700 dollars per year, and several others from 1200 to
+1500 dollars! I fortunately have an Indian boy, or I should be forced
+to clean my own boots, for I could not employ a good body servant for
+the full amount of my salary as a government officer. I believe every
+army officer in California, with one or two exceptions, would have
+resigned last summer could they have done it, and been free at once to
+commence for themselves. But the war was not then terminated, and no
+one could hope to communicate with Washington correspondents, to get an
+answer in less than six, and perhaps ten, months. For some time last
+summer (August and July) the officers at Monterey were entirely without
+servants; and the governor (Colonel Mason) actually took his turn in
+cooking for his mess."
+
+
+EFFECTS OF THIS DISCOVERY ON THE UNITED STATES.--The following remarks
+upon the influence of this immense discovery, which appeared in a
+popular New York journal on the 23rd January, proves the extent of
+impression produced upon society in the States by the intelligence of
+this new source of natural wealth:--
+
+"The news (February 12) from California will attract the observation of
+the whole community, A spirit is generated from those discoveries,
+which is more active, more intense, and more widely spread, than that
+which agitated Europe in the time of Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro.
+There seems to be no doubt that, in a short time--probably less than
+two years--those mines can be made to produce 100,000,000 dollars per
+year. The region is the most extensive of the kind in the world, being
+800 miles in length, and 100 in width, with every indication that gold
+exists in large native masses, in the rocks and mountains of the Sierra
+Nevada. But these vast gold mines are not the only mineral discoveries
+that have been made. The quicksilver in the same region seems to be as
+abundant as the gold, so that there are approximated to each other two
+metals, which will have a most important effect and utility in making
+the gold mines more valuable. Heretofore the gold and silver mines of
+Mexico and Peru have been valuable to Spain, because she possessed a
+monopoly of the quicksilver mines at Almaden in the Peninsula. This is
+surpassed by California. According to the last accounts now given to
+the public, emigrants were crowding in from every port in the Pacific
+to California--from Mexico, Peru, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon; and we
+have no doubt by this time the British possessions in the East, China,
+and everywhere else in that region, are furnishing emigrants to the
+wonderful regions of California. In less than a year there will
+probably be a population of 100,000 to 200,000 souls, all digging for
+gold, and capable of producing from 100,000,000 dollars to 300,000,000
+dollars worth per annum of pure gold, to be thrown on the commerce of
+the world at one fell swoop.
+
+"What is to be the effect of such vast discoveries on the commerce of
+the world--on old communities, on New York, London, and other great
+commercial cities? Such a vast addition to the gold currency of the
+world will at once disturb the prices and value of all productions and
+merchandise to a similar extent to that which we see in Monterey and
+San Francisco. The prices of every commodity will therefore rise
+extravagantly during the next few years, according to the produce of
+gold from that region. Now, in a rising market everything prospers;
+every one gets rich, civilisation expands, industry increases, and all
+orders of society are benefited. As soon as the first crop of gold from
+California reaches New York, the impulse which it will give to
+commercial enterprise, and the advance in the price of everything which
+it will cause, will be tremendous. The bank currency will be expanded,
+for the basis will be abundant; real estate will increase in value,
+agricultural productions and agricultural labour will advance at once
+10, 15, 20, 30, or 40 per cent., even to as great an extent, perhaps,
+as was witnessed when the demand came from Ireland for the food of this
+country to feed the starving Irish. New York and her sister cities will
+be the centre of all those revolutionary movements which are certain to
+spring from the gold productions of California, on the commerce of the
+whole civilized world. Ship-building will increase in value,
+steam-boats will be wanted, the railroads projected across the Isthmus
+in various places, in Mexico and Central America will be pushed to
+completion, and we should not be surprised to see an active attempt
+made, under the auspices of the Federal Government, to construct a
+railroad across the continent, through the South Pass, from St. Louis,
+or some other point on the Mississippi, to San Francisco. The discovery
+of these great gold mines will no doubt form the agent of the greatest
+revolution in the commercial centres of the world and on the
+civilisation of the human race that has ever taken place since the
+first dawn of history. New York will henceforth, from its position to
+the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, probably in less than a quarter of a
+century, present a population greater than that of Paris, and display
+evidences of wealth, grandeur, magnificence, and industry, in an equal
+if not greater degree than what we see in London at this day. We expect
+that, in the next twenty-five years, we shall make as rapid a march in
+this metropolis, and in the neighbouring cities, as any city has done
+during the last twenty-five centuries. There is no necessity for all
+going to California. Those who remain, and will raise produce,
+manufacture goods, build ships, construct steam-engines, and advance
+the Fine Arts, will enjoy the benefits of those discoveries to as great
+an extent as those who go to the Sacramento to dig for gold. All the
+results of the labours of those diggers must come to this metropolis,
+swell its magnificence, and increase the intensity of its action in
+commercial affairs. Even in a political point of view the discovery of
+these wonderful gold mines in California, under the Government of the
+United States, will have a wonderful and astounding effect. We should
+not be surprised to see, in a short time, all the old provinces of
+Mexico, as far as the Isthmus of Darien, knocking for admission into
+this union; while, on the other side, the British provinces of Canada,
+and even the Spanish island of Cuba, may be begging and praying to be
+let in at the same time, and be permitted to enjoy some of the vast
+advantages, and participate a little in the energy, which this vast
+confederacy will exhibit to the astonished world."
+
+
+DISORDERS IN THE GOLD DISTRICT.--Up to the close of the year the
+accounts were with few exceptions favourable to the morals and habits
+of the masses of adventurers congregated on the banks of the San
+Francisco and the vicinity; subsequently the statements on these points
+began to change, and every letter noticed some robbery or murder,
+generally both, as of frequent occurrence, and at length they became so
+common that there was neither protection for life nor property. The
+following ominous intelligence, which appeared in the _Washington
+Union_ (the organ of government), created an immense sensation. It was
+the substance of a letter from San Francisco, dated the end of
+December, addressed to Commodore Jones. "This letter (according to the
+_Union_) presents a desperate state of affairs as existing in
+California. Everything is getting worse as regards order and
+government. Murders and robberies were not only daily events, but
+occurring hourly. Within six days more than twenty murders had been
+perpetrated. The people were preparing to organise a provisional
+government in order to put a stop to these outrages. Within five days
+three men have been hung by Lynch Law. The United States revenue laws
+are now in force, and will yield 400,000 dollars the first year. The
+inhabitants are opposed to paying taxes."
+
+
+LATEST ACCOUNTS (_from the New York Press_.)--The desperate state of
+affairs in California is fully confirmed. Murders and robberies were
+occurring daily. The following are particulars supplied by Lieutenant
+Lanman, of the United States navy, who had returned to New York, after
+having acted for a year past as collector at Monterey:--
+
+"Only about an hour before he left, he saw a man on board the
+flag-ship, just arrived from the mines, who confirmed the previous
+reports in regard to the discoveries on the river Staneslow, where he
+had seen a single lump of gold weighing nine pounds, and heard of one
+that weighed twenty pounds. The gold excitement in Monterey had
+entirely abated, the immense mineral wealth of the country being looked
+upon as an established fact. There was no disposition (except among the
+landholders) to exaggerate. For a year past Lieutenant Lanman has been
+performing the duties of collector at the port of Monterey; and, having
+seen every man who had returned from a visit to the mines, his
+opportunities for obtaining authentic information were better than if
+he had visited the mines in person. He informs us that no large
+amounts of gold dust or ore were selling at a sacrifice; he does not
+believe that one hundred ounces of the gold dust could have been
+purchased at the reported rate of eight dollars, the ordinary prices
+ranging from ten to twelve dollars per ounce. The weekly receipts of
+gold at San Francisco were estimated at from thirty to fifty thousand
+dollars, and Lieutenant Lanman knew of one individual who had in his
+possession thirty thousand dollars' worth of pure ore and dust. The
+current value of gold in trade was sixteen dollars per ounce. There was
+a scarcity of coin throughout the country; but when Lieutenant Lanman
+arrived at Panama, he was informed that 600,000 dollars had just been
+shipped for California by certain Mexican gentlemen, and that the
+American consul at Paita (Mr. Ruden) had in charge coin of the value of
+118,000 dollars, which he intends to exchange for ore and dust. Peru
+and Chili are not behind the United States in regard to the gold
+excitement, no less than twenty vessels having sailed from these two
+countries within a short time bound to San Francisco. They were all
+well laden with provisions and other necessaries of life, and their
+arrival would probably reduce the prices, which have heretofore been so
+exorbitant. The whole amount of gold collected at the washings since
+the excitement first broke out is variously estimated--some put it down
+as high as 4,000,000 of dollars, but this I think is a little too
+high."
+
+A private letter says the produce of a vineyard of 1,000 vines brought
+1,200 dollars; the vegetables of a garden of one acre, near San
+Francisco, 1,500 dollars. A snow-storm had covered the gold-diggings,
+and the people were leaving, on account of sickness, intending to
+return in the spring, which is said to be the best season for the gold
+harvest. Labourers, according to one letter-writer, demanded a dollar
+an hour! Adventurers continued to arrive at San Francisco from all
+parts of the world; and several persons, who were reported to be laden
+down with gold, were anxious to return to the United States, but could
+not very readily find a conveyance, as the sailors deserted the ships
+immediately on their arrival in port.
+
+CALIFORNIAN GOLD 250 YEARS AGO.--Pinkerton, in an account of Drake's
+discovery of a part of California, to which he gave the name of New
+Albion, states:--"The country, too, if we can depend upon what Sir
+Francis Drake or his chaplain say, may appear worth the seeking and the
+keeping, since they assert that _the land is so rich in gold and
+silver, that upon the slightest turning it up with a spade or pick-axe,
+these rich metals plainly appear mixed with the mould_. It may be
+objected that this looks a little fabulous; but to this two
+satisfactory answers may be given: the first is, that later discoveries
+on the same coast confirm the truth of it, which for anything I can see
+ought to put the fact out of question; but if any doubts should remain,
+my second answer should overturn these. For I say next, that the
+country of New Mexico lies directly behind New Albion, on the other
+side of a narrow bay, and in that country are the mines of Santa Fe,
+which are allowed to be the richest in the world; here, then, is a
+valuable country, to which we have a very fair title."
+
+
+EFFECTS OF THE CALIFORNIAN NEWS IN ENGLAND.--A glance at the
+advertisements in the daily papers (says the _Examiner_) will show that
+the public appetite for California is likely to be promptly met. The
+burden of the various vessels already announced as ready for immediate
+departure amounts to about 5,000 tons, distributed in ships ranging
+from 190 to 700 tons, to say nothing of the West India mail-steamer,
+which leaves on the 17th, carrying goods and passengers to Chagres, or
+of a "short and pleasant passage" advertised to Galveston, in Texas, as
+a cheap route to the Pacific. The rates range from L25 upwards to suit
+all classes. Thus far, however, we have only the arrangements for those
+who are able to move. The opportunities provided for those who wish to
+share the advantages of the new region without its dangers are still
+more ample. Indeed, so imposing are the plans for an extensive
+investment of capital for carrying on the trade in shares of L5 each,
+that it would seem as if the first effect of the affair would be to
+cause a scarcity of money rather than an abundance. About a million and
+a quarter sterling is already wanted, and the promoters stipulate for
+the power of doubling the proposed amounts as occasion may offer. There
+is a "California Gold-Coast Trading Association;" a "California Gold
+Mining, Streaming, and Washing Company;" a "California Steam Trading
+Company," a "California Gold and Trading Company;" and a "California
+Gold Mining, etc., Trading Company." The last of these alone will
+require L600,000 for its objects, but as half the shares are "to be
+reserved for the United States of America," the drain upon our
+resources will be lessened to that extent. Some of the concerns propose
+to limit their operations to trading on the coast, sending out at the
+same time "collecting and exploring parties" whenever the prospect may
+be tempting. Others intend at once to get a grant from the legislature
+at Washington of such lands "as they may deem necessary," while others
+intend to trust to chance, simply sending out a "practical" manager,
+accompanied by an adequate number of men "accustomed to the extraction
+of gold in all its forms." Along with these advertisements are some of
+a modified nature, to suit parties who may neither wish to go out with
+a batch of emigrants, nor to stay at home and wait the results of a
+public company. One "well-educated gentleman" seeks two others "to
+share expenses with him." Another wishes for a companion who would
+advance L200, "one half to leave his wife, and the other half for
+outfit;" a third tells where "any respectable individuals with small
+capital" may find persons willing to join them; a fourth states that
+respectable persons having not less than L100 are wanted to complete a
+party; and a fifth, that a "seafaring man is ready to go equal shares
+in purchasing a schooner to sail on speculation." What number may be
+found to answer those appeals it is impossible to conjecture. Common
+sense would say not one, but experience of what has been practised over
+and over again reminds us that the active parties on the present
+occasion are not calculating too largely upon the credulity of their
+countrymen. That the country will be a pandemonium long before any one
+can reach it from this side is hardly to be doubted, unless, indeed,
+the United States government shall have been able to establish a
+blockade and cordon, in which case the new arrivals will have to get
+back as well as they can.
+
+
+PROBABLE EFFECT ON THE CURRENCY IN EUROPE.--In the description of gold
+mines, and rivers flowing over golden sands, we must be prepared for a
+little over-colouring. Such discoveries have always excited sanguine
+hopes, and dreams of exhaustless wealth; but if the accounts--and they
+really appear well authenticated--of the golden treasures of California
+be true, quantities of the most precious of all metals are found--not
+buried in mines, but scattered on the surface of the earth, and the
+fortunate adventurer may enrich himself beyond the dreams of avarice,
+almost without labour, without capital, and with no care but that which
+cupidity generates. The principle that the value of the precious
+metals, like other products of industry, is determined primarily by the
+cost of production, and then by scarcity, ideas of utility, and
+convenience, seems to be neutralized by this new discovery; and it
+becomes a curious question, how far it may affect the value of gold and
+silver in Europe. If the abundance of gold flowing from America be such
+as to exceed the demand, the value of gold will fall, and the price of
+all other commodities relatively rise, and the relative proportion
+between gold and silver be disturbed so as to affect the standards of
+value in each country and the par of exchange between one and another.
+The productiveness of the silver mines, there is no doubt, is greater
+and more regular than those of gold; but the enormous increase of the
+silver currency on the Continent, in the United States, and even in
+India, and our own colonies, has kept the price of silver a little
+below five shillings an ounce. On the other hand the English standard
+of value being gold only, the drain of gold is generally towards
+England, while that of silver is towards the Continent. We do not doubt
+that the English Mint price of gold, L3 17s. 10-1/2d. an ounce, and the
+price at which the Bank of England are compelled to purchase, L3 17s.
+9d. an ounce, are causes which not only regulate, but, within certain
+limits, determine, the price of gold throughout the world. Suppose, for
+a moment, the circulation of England, exceeding thirty millions and the
+Bank store of fifteen millions, to be thrown on the markets of Europe,
+by an alteration of the standard of value--how material would be the
+fall in price! It is equally obvious that England would be first and
+most materially affected by any large and sudden production of her
+standard of value; for though America would be enriched by the
+discovery of the precious metals within her own territories, it is only
+because she would possess a larger fund to exchange for more useful and
+necessary products of labour. The value of silver would not fall,
+assuming the supply and demand to be equalised, but gold would fall in
+relation to silver, and the existing proportion (about 15 to 1) could
+no longer be maintained. Then prices would rise of all articles now
+estimated in our currency--i.e. an ounce of gold would exchange for
+less than at present. And, assuming the price of silver to keep up as
+heretofore, about 5s. an ounce, our sovereign would be valued less in
+other countries, and all exchange operations would be sensibly
+affected. The only countervailing influence in the reduction of gold
+to, say, only double the price of silver, would be an increased
+consumption in articles of taste and manufacture, which, however, can
+only be speculative and uncertain. It is said by accounts from
+California that five hundred miles lie open to the avarice of
+gold-hunters, and that some adventurers have collected from 1,200 to
+1,800 dollars a-day; the probable average of each man's earnings being
+from 8 to 10 dollars a-day, or, let us say, L2. The same authority
+avers there is room and verge enough for the profitable working, to
+that extent, of a hundred thousand persons. And it is likely enough
+before long that such a number may be tempted to seek their easily
+acquired fortune in the golden sands of El Sacramento and elsewhere.
+Now two pounds a-day for each man would amount to L200,000, which,
+multiplied by 300 working days, will give L60,000,000 a-year! That is,
+L600,000,000 in ten years! A fearful amount of gold dust, and far more
+than enough to disturb the equanimity of ten thousand political
+economists. The gold utensils found among the simple-minded and
+philosophic Peruvians (who wondered at the eager desire of Christians
+for what they scarcely valued), will be esteemed trifles with our
+golden palaces, and halls paved with gold, when California shall have
+poured this vast treasure into Europe. Assuming in round numbers each
+2,000 lbs., or troy ton, to be equivalent to L100,000 sterling, the
+above amount in one year would represent _six hundred_ tons, and in ten
+years _six thousand_ tons of gold! The imagination of all-plodding
+industrious England is incapable of grasping so great an idea! Can
+there be any doubt, then, of a revolution in the value of the precious
+metals?
+
+
+PROHIBITION FROM THE GOVERNMENT.--It would seem that the government
+have at length taken measures to preserve the gold districts from the
+bands of foreign adventurers who are daily pouring in from every
+quarter. Towards the end of January we learn that General Smith had
+been sent out by the United States government, with orders to enforce
+the laws against all persons, not citizens of the States, who should be
+found trespassing on the public lands. Official notice to this effect
+was issued to the American consul at Panama and other places, in order
+that emigrants on their way to California might be made aware of the
+determination of the government previous to their arrival. The
+punishment for illegal trespassing is fine and imprisonment. It was not
+known, at the date of the last intelligence from California how this
+notification, which makes such an important change in the prospects of
+the numerous bodies now on their way thither, has been received by the
+population assembled at the land of promise.
+
+
+JOURNEY FROM ARKANSAS TO CALIFORNIA.
+
+The following general view of the nature of the country which divides
+the United States from California is taken from a narrative, published
+by Lieutenant Emory, of a journey from the Arkansas to the newly
+annexed territory of the United States.
+
+"The country," says the lieutenant, "from the Arkansas to the Colorado,
+a distance of over 1200 miles, in its adaptation to agriculture, has
+peculiarities which must for ever stamp itself upon the population
+which inhabits it. All North Mexico, embracing New Mexico, Chihuahua,
+Sonora, and the Californias, as far north as the Sacramento, is, as far
+as the best information goes, the same in the physical character of its
+surface, and differs but little in climate and products. In no part of
+this vast tract can the rains from heaven be relied upon, to any
+extent, for the cultivation of the soil. The earth is destitute of
+trees, and in great part also of any vegetation whatever. A few feeble
+streams flow in different directions from the great mountains, which in
+many places traverse this region. These streams are separated,
+sometimes by plains, and sometimes by mountains, without water and
+without vegetation, and may be called deserts, so far as they perform
+any useful part in the sustenance of animal life.
+
+"The whole extent of country, except on the margin of streams, is
+destitute of forest trees. The Apaches, a very numerous race, and the
+Navajoes, are the chief occupants, but there are many minor bands, who,
+unlike the Apaches and Navajoes, are not nomadic, but have fixed
+habitations. Amongst the most remarkable of these are the Soones, most
+of whom are said to be Albinoes. The latter cultivate the soil, and
+live in peace with their more numerous and savage neighbours. Departing
+from the ford of the Colorado in the direction of Sonora, there is a
+fearful desert to encounter. Alter, a small town, with a Mexican
+garrison, is the nearest settlement. All accounts concur in
+representing the journey as one of extreme hardship, and even peril.
+The distance is not exactly known, but it is variously represented at
+from four to seven days' journey. Persons bound for Sonora from
+California, who do not mind a circuitous route, should ascend the Gila
+as far as the Pimos village, and thence penetrate the province by way
+of Tucson. At the ford, the Colorado is 1,500 feet wide, and flows at
+the rate of a mile and a half per hour. Its greatest depth in the
+channel, at the ford where we crossed, is four feet. The banks are low,
+not more than four feet high, and, judging from indications, sometimes,
+though not frequently, overflowed. Its general appearance at this point
+is much like that of the Arkansas, with its turbid waters and shifting
+sand islands."
+
+The narrative of Lieut. Emory, of his journey from this point across
+the Desert of California, becomes highly interesting and
+characteristic.
+
+"_November 26_.--The dawn of day found every man on horseback, and a
+bunch of grass from the Colorado tied behind him on the cantle of his
+saddle. After getting well under way, the keen air at 26 deg. Fahrenheit
+made it most comfortable to walk. We travelled four miles along the
+sand butte, in a southern direction; we mounted the buttes and found a
+firmer footing covered with fragments of lava, rounded by water, and
+many agates. We were now fairly on the desert.
+
+"Our course now inclined a few degrees more to the north, and at 10,
+A.M., we found a large patch of grama, where we halted for an hour, and
+then pursued our way over the plains covered with fragments of lava,
+traversed at intervals by sand buttes, until 4, P.M., when, after
+travelling 24 miles, we reached the Alamo or cotton-wood. At this
+point, the Spaniards informed us, that, failing to find water, they had
+gone a league to the west, in pursuit of their horses, where they found
+a running stream. We accordingly sent parties to search, but neither
+the water nor their trail could be found. Neither was there any
+cotton-wood at the Alamo, as its name would signify; but it was
+nevertheless the place, the tree having probably been covered by the
+encroachments of the sand, which here terminates in a bluff 40 feet
+high, making the arc of a great circle convexing to the north.
+Descending this bluff, we found in what had been the channel of a
+stream, now overgrown with a few ill-conditioned mesquite, a large hole
+where persons had evidently dug for water. It was necessary to halt to
+rest our animals, and the time was occupied in deepening this hole,
+which, after a strong struggle, showed signs of water. An old champagne
+basket, used by one of the officers as a pannier, was lowered in the
+hole, to prevent the crumbling of the sand. After many efforts to keep
+out the caving sand, a basket-work of willow twigs effected the object,
+and, much to the joy of all, the basket, which was now 15 or 20 feet
+below the surface, filled with water. The order was given for each mess
+to draw a kettle of water, and Captain Turner was placed in charge of
+the spring, to see fair distribution.
+
+"When the messes were supplied, the firmness of the banks gave hopes
+that the animals might be watered, and each party was notified to have
+their animals in waiting; the important business of watering then
+commenced, upon the success of which depended the possibility of their
+advancing with us a foot further. Two buckets for each animal were
+allowed. At 10, A.M., when my turn came, Captain Moore had succeeded,
+by great exertions, in opening another well, and the one already opened
+began to flow more freely, in consequence of which, we could afford to
+give each animal as much as it could drink. The poor brutes, none of
+which had tasted water in forty-eight hours, and some not for the last
+sixty, clustered round the well and scrambled for precedence. At 12
+o'clock I had watered all my animals, thirty-seven in number, and
+turned over the well to Captain Moore. The animals still had an aching
+void to fill, and all night was heard the munching of sticks, and their
+piteous cries for more congenial food.
+
+"_November 27 and 28_.--To-day we started a few minutes after sunrise.
+Our course was a winding one, to avoid the sand-drifts. The Mexicans
+had informed us that the waters of the salt lake, some thirty or forty
+miles distant, were too salt to use, but other information led us to
+think the intelligence was wrong. We accordingly tried to reach it;
+about 3, P.M., we disengaged ourselves from the sand, and went due
+(magnetic) west, over an immense level of clay detritus, hard and
+smooth as a bowling-green. The desert was almost destitute of
+vegetation; now and then an Ephedra, Oenothera, or bunches of Aristida
+were seen, and occasionally the level was covered with a growth of
+Obione canescens, and a low bush with small oval plaited leaves,
+unknown. The heavy sand had proved too much for many horses and some
+mules, and all the efforts of their drivers could bring them no further
+than the middle of this desert. About 8 o'clock, as we approached the
+lake, the stench of dead animals confirmed the reports of the Mexicans,
+and put to flight all hopes of being able to use the water.
+
+"The basin of the lake, as well as I could judge at night, is about
+three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide. The water had
+receded to a pool, diminished to one half its size, and the approach to
+it, was through a thick soapy quagmire. It was wholly unfit for man or
+brute, and we studiously kept the latter from it, thinking that the use
+of it would but aggravate their thirst. One or two of the men came in
+late, and, rushing to the lake, threw themselves down and took many
+swallows before discovering their mistake; but the effect was not
+injurious except that it increased their thirst. A few mezquite trees
+and a chenopodiaceous shrub bordered the lake, and on these our mules
+munched till they had sufficiently refreshed themselves, when the call
+to saddle was sounded, and we groped silently our way in the dark. The
+stoutest animals now began to stagger, and when day dawned scarcely a
+man was seen mounted.
+
+"With the sun rose a heavy fog from the south-west, no doubt from the
+gulf, and, sweeping towards us, enveloped us for two or three hours,
+wetting our blankets and giving relief to the animals. Before it had
+disappeared we came to a patch of sun-burned grass. When the fog had
+entirely dispersed we found ourselves entering a gap in the mountains,
+which had been before us for four days. The plain was crossed, but we
+had not yet found water. The first valley we reached was dry, and it
+was not till 12 o'clock, M., that we struck the Cariso (cane) creek,
+within half a mile of one of its sources, and although so close to the
+source, the sands had already absorbed much of its water, and left but
+little running. A mile or two below, the creek entirely disappears. We
+halted, having made fifty-four miles in the two days, at the source, a
+magnificent spring, twenty or thirty feet in diameter, highly
+impregnated with sulphur, and medicinal in its properties.
+
+"The desert over which we had passed, ninety miles from water to water,
+is an immense triangular plain, bounded on one side by the Colorado, on
+the west by the Cordilleras of California, the coast chain of mountains
+which now encircles us, extending from the Sacramento river to the
+southern extremity of Lower California, and on the north-east by a
+chain of mountains, running southeast and northwest. It is chiefly
+covered with floating sand, the surface of which in various places is
+white, with diminutive spinelas, and everywhere over the whole surface
+is found the large and soft muscle shell. I have noted the only two
+patches of grass found during the 'jornada.' There were scattered, at
+wide intervals, the Palafoxia linearis, Atriplex, Encelia farinosa,
+Daleas, Euphorbias, and a Simsia, described by Dr. Torrey as a new
+species.
+
+"The southern termination of this desert is bounded by the Tecate chain
+of mountains and the Colorado; but its northern and eastern boundaries
+are undefined, and I should suppose from the accounts of trappers, and
+others, who have attempted the passage from California to the Gila by a
+more northern route, that it extends many days' travel beyond the chain
+of barren mountains which bound the horizon in that direction. The
+portal to the mountains through which we passed was formed by immense
+buttes of yellow clay and sand, with large flakes of mica and seams of
+gypsum. Nothing could be more forlorn and desolate in appearance. The
+gypsum had given some consistency to the sand buttes, which were washed
+into fantastic figures. One ridge formed apparently a complete circle,
+giving it the appearance of a crater; and although some miles to the
+left, I should have gone to visit it, supposing it to be a crater, but
+my mule was sinking with thirst, and water was yet at some distance.
+Many animals were left on the road to die of thirst and hunger, in
+spite of the generous efforts of the men to bring them to the spring.
+More than one was brought up, by one man tugging at the halter and
+another pushing up the brute, by placing his shoulder against its
+buttocks. Our most serious loss, perhaps, was that of one or two fat
+mares and colts brought with us for food; for, before leaving camp,
+Major Swords found in a concealed place one of the best pack mules
+slaughtered, and the choice bits cut from his shoulders and flanks,
+stealthily done by some mess less provident than others.
+
+"_Nov. 29_.--The grass at the spring was anything but desirable for our
+horses, and there was scarcely a ration left for the men. This last
+consideration would not prevent our giving the horses a day's rest
+wherever grass could be found. We followed the dry sandy bed of the
+Cariso nearly all day, at a snail's pace, and at length reached the
+'little pools' where the grass was luxuriant but very salt. The water
+strongly resembled that at the head of the Cariso creek, and the earth,
+which was very tremulous for many acres about the pools, was covered
+with salt. This valley is not more than half a mile wide, and on each
+side are mountains of grey granite and pure quartz, rising from 1,000
+to 3,000 feet above it.
+
+"We rode for miles through thickets of the centennial plant, Agave
+Americana, and found one in full bloom. The sharp thorns terminating
+every leaf of this plant were a great annoyance to our dismounted and
+wearied men, whose legs were now almost bare. A number of these plants
+were cut by the soldiers, and the body of them used as food. The day
+was intensely hot, and the sand deep; the animals, inflated with water
+and rushes, gave way by scores; and although we advanced only sixteen
+miles, many did not arrive at camp until 10 o'clock at night. It was a
+feast day for the wolves, which followed in packs close on our track,
+seizing our deserted brutes, and making the air resound with their
+howls as they battled for the carcases.
+
+"_December 12_.--We followed the Solidad through a deep fertile valley
+in the shape of a cross. Here we ascended to the left a steep hill to
+the table lands, which, keeping for a few miles, we descended into a
+waterless valley, leading into False Bay at a point distant two or
+three miles from San Diego. At this place we were in view of the fort
+overlooking the town of San Diego and the barren waste which surrounds
+it.
+
+"The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of which only
+have plank floors. It is situated at the foot of a high hill on a sand
+flat, two miles wide, reaching from the head of San Diego Bay to False
+Bay. A high promontory, of nearly the same width, runs into the sea
+four or five miles, and is connected by the flat with the main land.
+The road to the hide-houses leads on the east side of this promontory,
+and abreast of them the frigate Congress and the sloop Portsmouth are
+at anchor. The hide-houses are a collection of store-houses where the
+hides of cattle are packed before being shipped, this article forming
+the only trade of the little town.
+
+"The bay is a narrow arm of the sea indenting the land some four or
+five miles, easily defended, and having twenty feet of water at the
+lowest tide. The rise is five feet, making the greatest water
+twenty-five feet.
+
+"Standing on the hill which overlooks the town, and looking to the
+north-east, I saw the mission of San Diego, a fine large building now
+deserted. The Rio San Diego runs under ground in a direct course from
+the mission to the town, and, sweeping around the hill, discharges
+itself into the bay. Its original debouche was into False bay, where,
+meeting the waters rolling in from the seaward, a bar was formed by the
+deposit of sand, making the entrance of False Bay impracticable.
+
+"_January 2_.--Six and a half miles' march brought us to the deserted
+mission of San Luis Rey. The keys of this mission were in charge of the
+alcalde of the Indian village, a mile distant. He was at the door to
+receive us and deliver up possession. There we halted for the day, to
+let the sailors, who suffered dreadfully from sore feet, recruit a
+little. This building is one which, for magnitude, convenience, and
+durability of architecture, would do honour to any country.
+
+"The walls are adobe, and the roofs of well-made tile. It was built
+about sixty years since by the Indians of the country, under the
+guidance of a zealous priest. At that time the Indians were very
+numerous, and under the absolute sway of the missionaries. These
+missionaries at one time bid fair to christianize the Indians of
+California. Under grants from the Mexican government, they collected
+them into missions, built immense houses, and began successfully to
+till the soil by the hands of the Indians for the benefit of the
+Indians.
+
+"The habits of the priests, and the avarice of the military rulers of
+the territory, however, soon converted these missions into instruments
+of oppression and slavery of the Indian race.
+
+"The revolution of 1836 saw the downfall of the priests, and most of
+these missions passed by fraud into the hands of private individuals,
+and with them the Indians were transferred as serfs of the land.
+
+"This race, which, in our country, has never been reduced to slavery,
+is in that degraded condition throughout California, and does the only
+labour performed in the country. Nothing can exceed their present
+degradation."
+
+The general closing remarks of Lieutenant Emory are as follow:
+
+"The region extending from the head of the Gulf of California to the
+parallel of the Pueblo, or Ciudad de los Angeles, is the only portion
+not heretofore covered by my own notes and journal, or by the notes and
+journals of other scientific expeditions fitted out by the United
+States. The journals and published accounts of these several
+expeditions combined will give definite ideas of all those portions of
+California susceptible of cultivation or settlement. From this remark
+is to be excepted the vast basin watered by the Colorado, and the
+country lying between that river and the range of Cordilleras,
+represented as running east of the Tulare lakes, and south of the
+parallel of 36 deg., and the country between the Colorado and Gila rivers.
+
+"Of these regions nothing is known except from the reports of trappers,
+and the speculations of geologists. As far as these accounts go, all
+concur in representing it as a waste of sand and rock, unadorned with
+vegetation, poorly watered, and unfit, it is believed, for any of the
+useful purposes of life. A glance at the map will show what an immense
+area is embraced in these boundaries; and, notwithstanding the oral
+accounts in regard to it, it is difficult to bring the mind to the
+belief in the existence of such a sea of waste and desert; when every
+other grand division of the earth presents some prominent feature in
+the economy of nature, administering to the wants of man. Possibly this
+unexplored region may be filled with valuable minerals.
+
+"Where irrigation can be had in this country, the produce of the soil
+is abundant beyond description. All the grains and fruits of the
+temperate zones, and many of those of the tropical, flourish
+luxuriantly. Descending from the heights of San Barnardo to the Pacific
+one meets every degree of temperature. Near the coast, the winds
+prevailing from the south-west in winter, and from the north-west in
+summer, produce a great uniformity of temperature, and the climate is
+perhaps unsurpassed in salubrity. With the exception of a very few
+cases of ague and fever of a mild type, sickness is unknown.
+
+"The season of the year at which we visited the country was
+unfavourable to obtaining a knowledge of its botany. The vegetation,
+mostly deciduous, had gone to decay, and no flowers nor seeds were
+collected. The country generally is entirely destitute of trees. Along
+the principal range of the mountains are a few live oaks, sycamore and
+pine; now and then, but very rarely, the sycamore and cotton-wood occur
+in the champaign country, immediately on the margins of the streams.
+Wild oats everywhere cover the surface of the hills, and these, with
+the wild mustard and carrots, furnish good pasturage to the immense
+herds of cattle which form the staple of California. Of the many fruits
+capable of being produced with success, by culture and irrigation, the
+grape is perhaps that which is brought nearest to perfection.
+Experienced wine-growers and Europeans, pronounce this portion of
+California unequalled for the quality of its wines."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA***
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